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September 2012

Craft • DIY • Food • Green • Home Decor & Design

a word or two

In this issue we have something for everyone. For the girls that like sewing, the guys that like building, and the kids who like being creative. With spring having ofďŹ cially sprung, the emphasis is getting ready for spending time outdoors. So check out the feature and projects for an outdoor entertainment area.


Janice Home-Dzine Online is written and compiled by Janice Anderssen. All projects in this issue, or any other issue, remain the property of Home-Dzine and Janice Anderssen, or the respective copyright holders, and may not be copied or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission.

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LIVING THE LIFE Ideas for outdoor living SPRING FLING Sew up colourful table mats FABULOUS FLOWERS Display fresh flowers with a difference SANGRIA THREE WAYS Be prepared for when guests arrive

19 20 21 30

FUN FOOD OPTIONS Foods for fussy kids CREPE PAPER FLOWERS Creative centrepiece ideas QUICK & EASY Projects with air-dry clay DIY LAMPS Designer lamps that are do-able

37 38 51

REMEMBER WHEN A trip down memory lane DIY PERGOLA A shady garden retreat DIY WIRE PLANT HANGER Make it yourself


decor and design

LIVING THE LIFE... Although spring has had a stuttering start, what with freezing weather in the Cape and snow around the country, warm and sunny days lie ahead. If last year’s temperatures are anything to go by, we should plan a cool, shady area for outdoors. 5


Adding a structure to your outdoors is one way to create a shady spot for relaxing in the garden. There are so many options to choose from, from something as simple as a large garden umbrella, to building your own pergola. Considering what you can expect to fork out for a large shade umbrella these days, a pergola is not that much more expensive. On Home-Dzine I recently featured a project that showed how to make a basic free-standing deck. Combine this with a pergola and you have an entertainment area that can be sited anywhere in your garden - municipal regulations permitting.

Plan Ahead Because municipal regulations differ slightly from region to region, it’s always a good idea to check with your local municipality - town planning - to ďŹ nd out what regulations apply for mounting a free-standing, or pergola that is to be attached to an existing wall. The latter option is obviously an easier option if you have a place to mount it, as it requires far less materials to build.

Design and Materials As with any project, building a pergola will revolve around the budget you have available.



Choosing the right option Although the design of your particular pergola will be determined by the amount you have to spend on the project, there are a wide variety of material options to choose from that could reduce the overall cost. Before attempting to build a pergola, it’s important to take your skill level into consideration. It won’t help to design a pergola that you have neither the knowledge or skill to be able to build yourself. A design that’s way over your head may mean that you have to employ someone to make it for you, and that means extra cost. Another factor to take into consideration is the tools that you have. If you need to invest in additional tools to complete the project, this will also need to be allowed for in your budget. And finally, what materials you will use to construct the pergola. You will find a wide selection of basic materials at your local Builders Warehouse. 8

Steel Structure A basic steel framework, assembled on site or installed by a professional contractor, can provide you with a shady area within a couple of hours. Once erected, you then have the option to choose a roofing material for the structure. Since we are essentially talking about a carport, you don’t necessarily have to go with an IBR roof option, but can opt instead to use wood slats, shade netting, a canvas sail, or any of a wide range of alternative options.

Timber Structure The easiest option, if you plan to build a DIY pergola, is to build using readily available and reasonably affordable materials.

PAR Pine

South African PAR pine is available in a wide selection of lengths and thicknesses and in stock at your local Builders Warehouse.


More expensive than PAR pine, you will also find a less varied selection of meranti planks and boards.

Gum poles

Still a favourite for building a pergola, gum poles are pre-treated and available in various lengths and thicknesses.

Roofing Options When you put pen to paper and design your pergola you will obviously take into consideration the type of roofing to finish off with. The material you choose should blend in with the style of the pergola, and the style of your home.

Bamboo Panels Available as joined panels, bamboo is a sustainable and trendy option for roofing. Bamboo is extremely strong and weathers well when outdoors.

Grass or Reed Not as durable as bamboo, grasses will need to be replaced on a regular basis. Birds are attracted to these materials and you may find that sections disappear as nest-building material.


Cloth or Shadecloth Canvas, sail or uv-resistant fabrics allow you to make a custom shade for a pergola. Shadecloth is available in a selection of colours and densities for controlling the amount of shade. Reasonably durable.

Fibreglass panels Reasonably priced, these panels are also available in a range of colours.

image via: houzz

Bear in mind that the more transparent - the more dirt on the roof will show.

Gumpoles Thin strips of gumpoles are ideal for topping off a pergola and providing a certain amount of shade. Plus, these look fantastic on a rustic or modern pergola design. 10

image via:




FLING Outdoor dining takes a little creativity in order to keep everything from blowin’ in the wind. Our darling, durable placemats have built-in pockets to hold flatware and/or napkins. Dining in? Hooray for the reversible! Simply flip over the placemats for whole new look – the back is pocket-free. These clever placemats are so quick and easy, you can easily whip up enough your own table or the entire family reunion in a weekend. 13

You want a substantial fabric for this project: a canvas, heavy cotton duck or an outdoor fabric. We went the outdoor fabric route, which worked well and looked great. Normally, outdoor fabrics are not meant to be machine washable. It can remove the protective coatings that help keep them from fading in the sun.

You will need: Sewing machine 1 metre each 4 fabrics 150cm-wide* Matching thread Transparent ruler Fabric pen or pencil Iron and ironing board Scissors or rotary cutter and mat Seam gauge Seam ripper Straight pins *Additional fabric is allowed to fussy cut. Fussy cut allows you to select and cut out a speciďŹ c motif on printed fabric.

Here’s how: 1. From each of the 4 fabrics, cut: [2] 530 x 400mm rectangles [1] 150 x 220mm high rectangle 2. On the [4] 150 x 220mm pieces, fold in and press both sides and the bottom edge 12mm. Fold the top edge down 50mm and press. Pin in place. 3. Create a top hem by stitching across the top of the pocket approximately 40mm from the top folded edge. Place the pocket on the right side of the placemat front in the bottom right hand corner. It should be 40mm from the bottom raw edge and 40mm from the right hand raw edge. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.


4. Sew along both sides and across the bottom, leaving the top open (‘cause, yeah, it’s a pocket). Remember to pivot at the corners. We also like to do a heavy back tack at both upper corners as this is a stress point when using the pocket. Repeat for the remaining 3 placemat fronts. 5. Find each front and back placemat pair. Place the two layers right sides together, sandwiching the pocket in between. Using a 12mm seam allowance, stitch around all four sides, leaving a 150mm opening along the bottom for turning. 6. Trim all the corners at a diagonal and press the seams open. Turn the placemat right side out through the opening. Gently push out the corners so they are nice and sharp. A long blunt-end tool works best for this, such as a knitting needle or chopstick. Press well, pressing in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam. 7. Pin the opening closed and pin all around the edge of the mat. 8. Topstitch around all four sides, using a 6mm seam allowance. This closes the opening and secures the two layers. Remember to remove your pins as you sew. Don’t sew over pins!

Project designed by Sew4Home.


fabulous flowers

Mix whole fruit in a glass container for an artsy contrast to a classic peony and rose arrangement.

Be creative when arranging a oral centrepiece for your spring table. For a unique approach to oral design, blooming orchids anchored by a medley of vegetables add easy elegance to any space. 16

food fun Spring is here... and that means providing your guests with deliciously fresh ingredients and refreshing beverages they can enjoy for hours on end. Valley & Co have a recipe for sangria made three ways. A simple, yet classic recipe with a twist that can be made in batches well in advance. Keep chilled in the refrigerator until guests arrive and serve in wine glasses. Serve up carafes at your party or take a covered carafe with a recipe tag as a hostess gift.


Sangria, Three Ways White Wine Sangria: 2/3 cup white sugar | orange slices | lime slices | lemon slices | diced green apples |½ litre of club soda | 1 bottle Chardonnay Red Wine Sangria: 1½ cups rum | ½ cup white sugar | 1 cup orange juice | lemon slices | orange slices | lime slices | 1 bottle dry red wine (try a Spanish rioja) Rosé Sangria: ½ litre club | soda | sliced nectarines | green apple cubes | lemon slices | lime slices |orange slices | 1 bottle dry French rosé




As parents, we know that kids can be difficult when it comes to food. Even if they have never had a particular food before, the comment, “I don’t like it” is know to many a parent. Juice produce for life posted this wonderfully creative way to present salad to kits - and it’s sure to have kids chomping away!

You will need: Take a couple of tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, black olives, some fresh greens, and voila!

How’s this for a breakfast idea? All you need to make this sweet breakfast is toast, banana, raisins, butter/margarine, cinnamon and sugar.


The horns, eyes and spots are cut from black olives.

Mix sugar & cinnamon. Toast bread lightly. Spread with butter while hot. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Slice banana and use one slice for the bear’s nose. Place raisins for the eyes and one for the black nose. Finish the bear with two banana slices for the ears. 19


Creative Jewish Mom comes up with some amazing craft projects. I particularly like this one that explains how to make these gorgeous crepe paper flowers. Perfect for a centrepiece on a garden table when entertaining family or friends.

You will need:

Crepe paper (you can use tissue paper, but I think crepe paper looks much better) Floral wire stems Scissors

Here’s how:

Make a stack of anywhere from four (for smaller flowers) to eight squarish sheets of crepe paper. My flowers in the photo were made with 6 or 8 layers. From a roll of crepe paper, 150 x 50cm, I created two nice sized flowers. The bouquets in the photos were each made from six flowers. Important: Take note of the grain of the crepe paper, and make sure that all the pieces in your stack have the grain running the same way. Turn the stack of crepe paper such that the grain is running horizontally, left to right. Why? Because other wise you may end up with a very floppy looking flower, especially if you use the thin crepe paper that I used. Begin folding the stack accordion style Wrap a piece of floral wire around the centre and twist to secure Cut petal shapes at each end of the folded piece, see my diagram below Open the accordion, and start very gently pulling the layers up towards the centre to shape the flower Play a bit with the layers to get a nice shape and voila! 20


quick and easy I have been crafting with air-dry clay for quite a few years and thoroughly enjoy seeing all the wonderful ways that you can use air-dry clay to make unique decor accessories. These are lovely decorative vases made from selfhardening, air-dry clay with stamped designs. Each vase is ďŹ lled with test tubes wrapped in twine, each with a single white rose. What a simple yet effective way to add decor to your home.


YOU WILL NEED: Glasses Jovi or Das air-drying clay Craft knife or cutter Cutting mat Clingwrap or wax paper Stencils and stamps Cooking oil

Air-drying clay does not need to be baked in an oven, in dries hard when left out in the open. However, air-dry clay does not become waterproof after drying, but if you want to use this vase for fresh flowers, leave the glass inside once you’re done. Alternatively, use clay that is baked in the oven for this project.

HERE’S HOW: 1. Make a template from an ordinary drinking glass. Add approximately 1cm to the length for the closing. 2. Place your clay on a sheet of clingwrap or wax paper to make it easier to lift up once rolled.


Roll clay into the appropriate thickness - about 3mm thick - and cut out using the template from step 1.


3. Make your chosen pattern in the clay with the stamps.


If you don’t have any stamps on hand, get creative. There are so many household items that you can use to create patterns: cooking cutters, stencils, etc. Use your imagination! 4. Lubricate the glass with cooking oil and put the clay around the glass. 5. Seal the joint with a blunt knife, cuticle stick or similar. Press the top layer gently into the bottom layer. 6. Carefully remove the clay vase from the glass. (Or leave in if you want to use for fresh owers). 7. Let the vase dry for a minimum of 24 hours.

You can buy Jovi or Das clay from most hobby and craft shops or online from craft suppliers.






hen pecked

Here’s another crafty project that uses air-dry clay. Make these contemporary guinea fowl figurines for a unique display. If birds aren’t your thing, you can use air-dry clay to make almost any creature or shape.

You will need: Jovi or Das air-dry clay Tools for cutting and shaping Rolling pin Polystyrene balls Smooth cutting board Thin wire for legs Blocks of wood for base Rust-Oleum Universal - pure gold

Acrylic paint - black Paintbrush Clean cloth Long-nose pliers Clingwrap or wax paper 5-minute epoxy


Here’s how: 1. Place a piece of clingwrap or wax paper on top of your smooth cutting board. Break off a piece of air-dry clay and use your hands to shape a rough ball shape. Press this flat and then roll out with a rolling pin to a thickness of about 3mm.

2. Lift up the clingwrap or wax paper and start gently wrapping the clay around the polystyrene ball. Use your fingers to mould the clay around the ball and to close off so that the polystyrene ball is completely encased in clay.

3. If there is any excess clay while moulding around the ball, you can use this to start shaping the tail.


4. Add a small ball of clay to start shaping the head and tail. Remember this is a contemporary figurine and does not have to be perfect. In fact, imperfections are what make your figuring unique.

5. Wet your fingertips slightly to smooth the surface of the clay and then add some texture. I gently tapped the surface with a meat tenderiser, so look around and you are sure to find something that will add texture to the surface of the clay. To create the rings on the finished clay I used a nylon wall plug! Use a toothpick to poke a hole in the base of the figuring to mount the legs. Let the clay dry overnight.

6. Spray on two light coats of Rust-Oleum Universal - pale gold. There are other metallic colours in the range if you prefer to use a different colour. With a small paintbrush, apply black paint to the detailed areas and then wipe this off with a slightly damp cloth.


7. Use long-nose pliers to shape the wire legs. Again, these don’t have to be perfect. Twist a double row of wire for legs and 3 small lengths to create the feet for your bird.

8. Push the legs into the base of the bird - where you poked a hole with the toothpick. You can push them in deeply, but be careful not to poke right through. 9. Use 5-minute epoxy to attach the bottom of the feet to the base. Let this dry and then paint over the base and legs with acrylic paint.




Grab some plain, white cotton fabric, iron-on webbing or your sewing machine, and some Dala fabric paint and make your own glorious spring tablecloths.

Whip up some stylish place mats with natural cotton rope and a Dremel Hot Glue Gun. Wind the rope into small and large circles and add a blob of glue at the start and finish and then join these together.

images: crate and barrel

It’s so easy to add colour to fabric and you will find plenty of designs to download on the Internet.

Dala ceramics paint allows you decorate glazed ceramics, pottery, glass, kitchen and bathroom tiles, tin or even enamel. It forms a hard scratch, heat and chemical resistant film if cured correctly.



Reuse - Recycle - Repurpose

Beautiful designer oor and table lamps can cost the earth. Here are just a couple of extravagant examples of table and oor lamps that you could oh so easily knock up yourself!



SIMPLE TREASURES Who would have thought that an old lampshade frame could be transformed into a beautiful objet d’art. Designed by Stray Dog Designs, papier-mache flowers blossom on vines that twist around the wire drum shade, softening its industrial look. This hand crafted floor lamp pairs mid-century modern design with natureinspired accents for a versatile light fixture. Priced from $850.00 - that’s R6000 - I think my lounge lamp might be going under a transformation in the near future!



This quirky and contemporary chandelier consists of nothing more than a welded circular frame that allows for mounting glass bottles. This would be a nice project for the DIY Divas to tackle in their welding workshop - or anyone else who owns welding gear!


lights ahoy!




Doing some research the other day, I came across an image that took me back to when I was a very young child and colour TV was a magical invention in many homes. Do you remember when...


Live it up outdoors!

While this basic pergola won’t provide shelter from sun, wind or rain, it defines an outdoor space without constraining it. You can easily add shadecloth, fibreglass sheeting, or natural materials such as bamboo and reeds to top off the pergola and add shade; or plant a climber against the uprights to provide colour and eventually create a private retreat that does provide protection from the elements.


Secure steel post-base anchors to a concrete slab. If you’re not mounting onto a concrete slab, use longer posts and set them in dugouts with concrete.

Secure the anchors will rawl bolts and then hold each post plumb and drive nails through the anchors into the wood.

Cut four support beams to length, cut the curved ends with a jigsaw. Clamp the beams in place, and check that they’re level and that the posts are plumb.

The 50 x 150mm crossbeams are notched to fit over the support beams. Cut the notches with a table saw or lay out each notch and use a jigsaw to remove the waste. 39

Install the crossbeam pairs at the posts first. When they’re in place, bore screwholes down through their top edges and screw crossbeams to

the support beams. Use 50 x 150mm pine for the diagonal braces. Cut the ends to length at 45 degrees. Fasten the braces to the posts and beams with

screws. Cut five 50 x 100mm slats to length and shape the ends. Clamp each slat in place and mark the crossbeam notch positions. 40

Bore pilot holes and attach the slats

with screws. To make the post caps, cut square blocks. Secure the caps with galvanized nails and construction adhesive.

You can be creative when designing and cutting your post caps, after all, these add a decorative ďŹ nishing touch to your pergola. If you have access to the right tools you can cut low, sloping post caps, or high, pyramid caps.

Use small timber panels around the base of posts to hide steel anchoring brackets.

The more advanced DIY-er, with access to tools, can design and ďŹ t curved diagonal braces.




Here’s is an actual free-standing pergola during the various stages of assembly. As you can see the first step is to fasten the uprights to a secure footing. If no existing footing is available, dig to a depth of 600mm, insert the posts and fill with a pre-mixed batch of stone, sand and cement. Here is the ratio for a strong cement mix: Cement = 1 part Sand = 2 parts Stone = 3 parts



image: diy network

ABOVE: This beautiful entertainment area is a ďŹ ne example of how easy it is to do-it-yourself. A simple pergola design is topped off with cement ďŹ bre sheets to provide a rain- and sunproof shelter that won’t cost a fortune. Gabons of chipped stone provide bases for the garden table and seating benches that are placed around the deck.


Pressure treated pine or meranti are reasonably-priced timbers that you can purchase at most Builders Warehouse stores, or timber merchants. While pine is a softwood, with the proper sealing and maintenance, this wood is suitable for outdoor use. Meranti is a harder wood species and is more expensive than pine, but with the proper sealing and maintenance, will outlast pine. Of course, there are other hardwood timber species, such as Saligna, Teak and Oak, that can be used - at a cost.

perfect POSITION

A concrete slab is the ideal solution for a permanent pergola. Set within a timber frame with posts supports embedding for easy mounting of upright posts, you can pour a concrete slab in a day (depending on the size)

To lay a concrete slab as a patio or pergola base you need to start out by measuring up and setting out a timber frame, into which the concrete can be poured. Because you are starting from scratch, you can allow for post mounting brackets, electrical pipes, and even add plumbing if required, before pouring concrete.


A well-laid concrete slab will give at least 20 to 30 years’ trouble-free service and can be laid quite easily by the ordinary homeowner. The concrete must be of high quality and be at least 75 mm thick. In a slab that is to be larger than 3 metres square, joints should be added at intervals of 2,5 to 3 metres to prevent unsightly cracking.


The ground below the slab must be firm and stable to ensure that it does not settle unevenly at a later stage.

Use PAR pine to create a stable form for concrete. Steel or timber stakes placed at intervals on the outside of the form ensure that the form does not move when the concrete is poured.

Remove all roots and vegetable matter, and, preferably, the topsoil. Then trim the base to the required levels and slopes. Next, check that the surface is uniformly firm. Soft areas and any fill used to make up the levels should be tamped down with, for example, the end of a gumpole.


Timber forms are used to retain the shape of freshly poured concrete. The forms are held in place by stakes at about 1 m intervals. They must be set firmly and accurately because the concrete is finished flush with the top edges. Forms should be given a coat of form oil or whitewash before use to prevent the concrete sticking to them.


Materials for concrete

Mixing the concrete

You will need cement, sand and nominal 19 mm stone.

Mix the concrete on a clean, smooth, hard surface such as a steel sheet or a concrete floor.

Each batch of concrete should consist of one bag of cement, 80 litres sand, 80 litres stone and enough water to make a workable mix. For every cubic metre (m3) of concrete, you will require 7,7 bags of cement, 0,62 m3 sand and 0,62 m3 stone. When ordering materials, allow for approximately 10 % waste.

(Note: 1 000 litres = 1 cubic metre.)

If you are laying a large slab it might be in your interest to look at hiring a cement mixer for the day! Spread the sand in a layer about 100 mm thick and pour cement over it. Thoroughly mix the two until the colour is uniform.

Pigments can be added to the concrete to colour the driveway.

Measuring the sand and stone Wheelbarrows, 10, 20 or 25 litre drums are useful measures. A builder’s wheelbarrow holds 65 litres when filled and struck off level with the brim. Drums hold approximately 10 per cent more than their nominal capacity when filled and struck off level with the brim. The capacity can be checked by filling the container with water measured from a 1 litre bottle or jug.

Add water slowly and continue mixing until the consistence is rather like a thin porridge. Then add the stone and mix it in thoroughly. The concrete must be able to stand in a heap, but must settle quickly if prodded with a spade. Do not make the concrete too sloppy, or too dry.


Placing the concrete Moisten the ground before placing the concrete. There should be no free water on the surface when the concrete is laid. Pour the concrete and make sure there are no gaps along the forms or in the corners. Use a 50 mm thick plank that is long enough to stretch across the panel to compact the concrete. If a handle is fixed to each end of the plank, the job will be easier. First, use a chopping motion to compact the concrete. When free water appears on the surface, the concrete has been compacted sufficiently. Now, resting the plank on top of the formwork and using a sawing motion, work it gradually from the one end of the panel to the other to level the surface and remove the excess concrete. Fill any hollows, if necessary. Woodfloat to an even surface. The concrete can be lightly brushed with a soft broom once it has started to harden. Use an edging tool to round the edges of the panel. If mixing is done by hand, it will be possible to lay one or maybe two panels (2,75 x 3,0 m) in a day. If a concrete mixer is used, more panels can be laid.

Protection and curing

It is essential that concrete be prevented from drying out. If there is any delay between placing and finishing off the concrete, it needs to be protected especially in dry, windy weather.


Covering with plastic sheeting is recommended until finishing occurs.

to stop the wind getting under the sheeting.

For the concrete to develop strength it should be kept damp for an adequate period after placing.

The slab can be walked on after one day, and can be used after about five days.

Damp-curing should be continued for at least 10 days in warm weather and 14 days in cold weather. The curing procedure recommended is to cover the work, as soon as surface texturing is complete, with plastic sheeting that is kept in place with a thin layer of sand or soil over it and stones, planks, pipes or gumpoles along the edges


D.I.Y Applying silicone sealer is the perfect way to fill gaps and create seamless transitions between sinks, tile, or trim and walls. But if you’ve ever tried doing it yourself, you may have found that applying a clean bead can be tricky. Luckily, you can solve that problem with masking tape. Apply the tape on either side of the area where you want the sealer to go. Apply the sealer and smooth it with your finger. When you peel back the tape, you’ll be left with a perfect edge.

perfect edges easy clean-up Drilling a hole in the ceiling can make a big mess, especially if you’re working over carpet. This simple solution will contain the dust for easy cleanup. The next time you use up the contents of a disposable plastic container, save the lid. Drive a drill bit through the centre of the lid, and then use the drill to make the hole in the ceiling. The dust will fall on the lid, and you can simply throw it away when you’re done.



glorious gardening


Want to grow your own fruit and vegetables but live in a flat and just don’t have the space on the balcony for boxes and planters? Simply use your Dremel® DSM20™ Compact Saw to cut aluminium rods, solder them together to create a structure for hanging pots – and lo and behold, you have an upright fruit and vegetable wall to be positioned on the sunniest of your balcony walls. See our step-by- step guide below. You will need: Dremel® DSM20™ Compact Saw DSM840 cutting guide DSM510 Metal and Plastic Cut-Off Wheel Dremel® 3000 with stainless steel wire brush Dremel® SpeedClic cutting wheel SC456 Dremel® Versaflame™ Aluminium welding rods Stainless steel abrading rod 4 x metal brackets, safety goggles 14 of 1 metre x 6 mm thick aluminium rods Plant pots Compost Tomato, chilli pepper and strawberry plants Tape measure Paper and pencil, masking tape

Here’s how: 1. Measure the space on your wall and draw up your design on a sheet of paper. Our design measured 137cm high x 51.4cm wide.


2. Use your Dremel DSM20 compact saw and the DSM510 Metal and Plastic Cut-Off Wheel to cut six individual aluminium rods to 50cm. These will become the hoops; each sized 16.5cm in external diameter, to hold your plant pots. 3. Bend each length into an individual circle. Screw four metal brackets into your workbench to hold the size of hoop you want to weld. Weld together the two ends of the hoop using the Dremel Versaflame. In order to do this, first, clean up the faces using your Dremel 3000 with a Dremel stainless steel wire brush 530 to remove oxidization, dust etc. Heat each of the two ends of the hoop to melting point using your Dremel Versaflame. Lay a bead of the welding rod onto each face of the hoop. When the end of the hoop is hot enough, the welding rod will melt onto the end of the hoop. While the bead of welding rod is still molten, scratch through the molten welding rod with a stainless steel abrading rod to break through the oxidation formed underneath the molten bead of weld rod. This ensures that the bead of welding rod merges with the aluminium. Close up the hoop, and clamp in position using a Dremel bar clamp or similar, then heat up until it reaches the welding rod’s melting point again and the two mating faces will fuse together. If necessary add more welding rod. There are some good tutorials on YouTube to help you do this.


4. Take a metre length of aluminium rod to form one of your vertical lines. Fix your first hoop at 6.5cm, the second hoop at 50cm, and the third at 93.5cm. Repeat this process on another one metre length. 5. Cut 3 x 50cm lengths of aluminium rod. These are the horizontal struts. Mark up where the vertical struts will go onto your horizontal struts at 12.5, 25 and 37.5cm. Also, mark up the vertical struts, which you have welded with hoops, at 0cm, 44cm and 87.5cm to intersect with the horizontal struts. Now weld the horizontal struts onto the vertical struts. 6. Take a metre length of rod x 2 and using a Versaflame weld to either side to make the external side vertical struts. Bend another metre length into an arch for the top. We used a dustbin lid to bend it around. Weld the ends to the external side vertical struts. Take a 1m length of rod; cut a piece x 36.5cm and weld together to create the centre upright and weld all intersecting points. Add two top upright 32.5cm sections and weld. Finally, add 11cm support struts – two per hoop x 6 hoops giving you 12 struts in total. 7. Make a leaf on a twig and solder to the top of the arch. To do this, cut 1 x 80cm rod, bend it by hand in the middle into a V and then shape the ends to mimic stalks, onto which you attach metal leaves. To make the leaves, mark up and cut out metal diamond-shaped leaf shapes from very thin sheet aluminium 1mm thick using your Dremel 3000 and metal cutting wheel SC456, then weld them onto the aluminium rod stalks using the Versaflame. 8. Either leave silver or spray paint black for contrast against the wall. Mount your metal structure onto the wall using either hooks or metal brackets and plant up. 54

Trash Town

I am sure that most of you learn about recycling at school and this project is all about recycling. Make a fun town using milk cartons, juice cartons, toilet roll holders and other items that mom would normally throw away. Paint with craft paint and use sticky dots to attach colourful cut out card designs.


Be creative, use your imagination, have fun!


Now that you have made our Trash Town, you can make cars, boats and other transportation for your new town. For this project you will need to ask mom or dad to help with the cutting and drilling. Wooden strips and wooden flower sticks have been sawn, smoothed with sandpaper and glued together. Wheels, masts etc. have been added and painted with acrylic craft paint. 1. Use a saw and a mitre box for cutting out small wooden strips. 2. Slightly sand the ends of the wooden strips. 3. Glue the parts together with express wood glue. 4. Drill holes for the wheels. 5. Nail the wheels in place. 6. Paint the car with acrylic craft paint.


More great projects for you to make and take home Beginners & Advanced Workshops Basic Electrical and Plumbing Workshops Basic Welding | Career Workshops Every Saturday morning from 09:00 to 12:00 58








Home-Dzine Online September 2012  

Ideas and inspiration for homeowners

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