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October 2012

Craft • DIY • Food • Green • Home Decor & Design

a word or two

Now that spring has arrived we can spend more time outdoors. Set up a workbench, dust off your power tools and get stuck in with some of the great projects featured in this issue. And spruce up your indoors and outdoors too - with bright, bold colour this season.


Janice Home-Dzine Online is written and compiled by Janice Anderssen. All projects in this issue, or any other issue, remain the property of Home-Dzine and Janice Anderssen, or the respective copyright holders, and may not be copied or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission.

5 14 17 21

BE BOLD & BEAUTIFUL Add colour to living spaces 3D DECOR Eco-friendly decorating alternative MODERN BED FRAME Make your own bed frame DESIGNER HEADBOARD Matching headboard for bed frame

25 33 38 43

SHABBY CHIC HUTCH Make our distressed hutch CRAFT & HOBBY ORGANISER Organise your craft supplies DIY CUSTOM STOOLS DIY stools to your requirements REPURPOSED T-SHIRTS Trendy scarves for nothing

48 49 52

KEEP YOUR COOL Outdoor shade options ANYTIME-ANYWHERE SNACK Bruschetta recipes DIY KIDS Halloween horrors


decor and design


Stroll through any home decor store and you will discover a kaleidoscope of textures, styles and colours. Not for the fainthearted, bold colour can be beautiful and exciting. But would you dare...? 5


image: 1st-option




Since owning my very first home, I was always afraid to experiment with colour. My colour scheme consisted of beige and brown. It is only recently, and with the launch of Home-Dzine, that I have come to love colour. Adding colour to your living spaces uplifts and adds a hint of fun and excitement. With a bold red entrance and turquoise feature wall as you enter, there’s definitely no beige and brown to be seen. Take advantage of Plascon’s eco-friendly paint options and the gorgeous fabrics we have at our disposal and wrap your home in colour.


ABOVE: Plascon’s 2013 Palette allows you to choose the perfect colours for your lifestyle. The Pause Palette is hot off the catwalk. Pastel colours have been a highlight of many designer collections on the catwalk, These soft washes of colour look as beautiful on walls as they do on furniture. This palette of pastels is calming and uplifting and can be easily introduced to a scheme, as they work well with neutrals and greys. PREVIOUS PAGE: Boost up the colour with Plascon’s Dare Palette. These zinc toned brights are energy-boosting, without being manic and are great for colour-blocking and feature walls. 11

Grab a can or two of RustOleum 2X UltraCover and spray on glorious colour wherever you want it. The new formulation can be applied to plastics, wood, wicker, metal, plaster or unglazed ceramic. Fast-dry formula resists chipping and fading.

Find Rust-Oleum on the shelf at your local BUILDERS WAREHOUSE 12

Outdoors is just as important as indoors. Open up the doors and use paint and fabric to create a seamless living space from your home into your garden. Many fabric stores offer a range of weatherproof or exterior fabrics that can be used to enhance your outdoor living. Fabric from Home Fabrics. (

“INSIDE OUT� is woven with 100% solution dyed acrylic yarns, giving the consumer a 5 year limited warranty against fading from harmful UV rays.


3D DECOR 3D Board offers a collection of chic designs that offer personality and style to any home. With 3D Board it’s so easy to create a feature wall or add impact. Manufactured from moulded bamboo fibre - making this product environmentally friendly, the lightweight and durable panels are easy to install for the average DIY enthusiast. Simply fix the tiles to the wall with contact adhesive or No More Nails. Seal the panelled wall with primer and paint in your choice of colour. As simple as that!

At a time when we all want to do our best to protect our planet here is a product that provides high quality, interior decoration possibilities that will enhance, not harm, the environment. 14

3D Board marks the beginning of a new trend of wall furnishings. Feature walls no longer need to be restricted to a mere splash of colour since this product provides a cost effective way to create just the right atmosphere in any room of your home or business.

3D Board combines cutting edge technology with environmentally friendly recycled plant and bamboo ďŹ bre to produce a cleaner, greener product.

The design applications of 3D BOARD are limited only by your imagination and it can be utilized to create high impact feature walls or a more subtle and subdued atmosphere of elegance and reďŹ nement.



quick and easy

Making your own bed frame and headboard is much easier than you think. In this project Nate and Michelle from decor and the dog show you how simple it is to make a modern bed frame and headboard using some PAR pine and a few basic tools. YOU WILL NEED: 2 of 20 x 150 x 1520mm - top/bottom ends 1 of 20 x 76 x 1520mm - bottom end base 2 of 20 x 150 x 1930mm - sides 4 of 20 x 76 x 400mm legs 2 of 20 x 200 x 200mm - corner braces 1 of 20 x 76 x





1. With all your pieces cut to size and prepainted it’s easy to assemble everything. Use the diagrams on the previous page to assemble the bottom frame of the bed using a pockethole jig. NOTE: If you don’t own a pockethole jig you can substitute with dowels, biscuits or screw through the outside of the frame; drill pilot holes and countersink for all screws, fill with wood filler and then sand smooth.

2. Join the side frames to the bottom frame, also using a pockethole jig. Again you can substitute if you don’t have a pockethole jig. Use corner clamps or quick clamps to hold the frame sections together as you join.

3. Attach the corner supports at the bottom of each frame section, first in the front corner and then the opposite corner. These corner supports help to square the bed and provide additional strength. The easiest way to make the corner supports is to have a block cut to square, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner and then cut along this line.


4. This next step looks at how to attach the side rails and centre bar that support the slats ďŹ tted to the top of the frame. 5. The side rails are glued and screwed to the inside of the frame, making sure to leave enough space for the slats to leave a gap for placing the mattress on top. 6. The centre support is attached using pocketholes and wood glue. 7. The individual slats are screwed to both side rails and the centre support. Leave a 100mm gap between each slat. NOTE: I’m not a big fan of using slats as mattress supports, and if you prefer you can have PG Bison 16mm Bisonbord cut to size to replace the slats.


Square DESIGN Headboard

To finish off your new. modern bed frame you need a headboard. This square design headboard fits perfectly with the style of the bed frame and you can make in a day with the right tools and materials.


YOU WILL NEED: 2 of 44 x 44 x 1200mm 2 of 44 x 44 x 1432mm 1 of 20 x 76 x 1432mm 8 of 20 x 44 x 150mm pine 8 of 20 x 44 x 596mm pine 8 of 20 x 44 x 200mm pine 8 of 20 x 44 x 100mm pine Wood glue Wood ďŹ ller 3,5 x 30mm wood screws


TOOLS Pockethole jig Drill/Driver plus assorted bits Orbital sander plus 240-grit sanding pads NOTE: The measurements supplied are for a queen-size headboard that only has four decorative panels.

The secret to this headboard design is to construct the frame, build the individual centre sections and then put everything together. 1. Assemble the frame as shown in the diagram on the next page. Use a pockethole jig to join the top, bottom and base sections to the side rails. All pocketholes will be at the back of the frame, so as not to be visible.


2. Join together the various pieces to assemble the inner decorative sections. Each section is made individually and then attached to the frame. Pre-drill each section with a pockethole jig on both side ends. 3. Fit each decorative section within the frame as shown left. NOTE: If you don’t have a pockethole jig, the main frame can be joined using wood glue and corner braces at the back of the frame. The decorative sections can be glued and clamped until dry and then attached within the frame by screwing through the top, bottom and sides.



936mm 1200mm

20 x 76mm 300mm

100mm 150mm

100mm 100mm


150mm 200mm 23




Shabby Chic inspired hutch

My love of Shabby Chic furniture allows me to enjoy designing custom furniture for clients. This large 2-piece hutch was recently commissioned and manufactured to take pride of place in a large, open plan kitchen. 25


2 2 2 2 2 6 1 2 2 1 4 4 4 2

16mm SupaWood 16mm SupaWood 16mm SupaWood 16mm SupaWood 16mm SupaWood Moulding 16mm SupaWood 16mm SupaWood 16mm SupaWood 16mm Supawood 16mm SupaWood 16mm SupaWood 16mm SupaWood 16mm SupaWood

550 550 400 50 693 50 580 550 550 550 98 90 90 502

1500 968 1468 1000 996 2400 1520 1468 768 1468 724 534 692 692

top/base - top cabinet sides - top cabinet shelves - top cabinet side frames - top cabinet doors - top cabinet door trim top & base top - bottom cabinet top/base - bottom cabinet sides - bottom cabinet drawer support drawer front drawer sides drawer front/back drawer base

For the 16mm SupaWood it’s important to stress the importance of using PG Bison SupaWood if you want a smooth ďŹ nish and not have to spend hours sanding the surface before painting. Chicken wire Wood glue 3 x 30mm wood screws 4 x 45mm wood screws 8 hinges and small screws Pine or SupaWood moulding* No More Nails adhesive Modo low-sheen PVA in your choice of colour Drill/Driver and assorted bits Countersink bit Jigsaw and clean-cut blade Staple gun and 8mm heavy-duty staples Hammer Quick clamps Bosch PFS spray system of painting equipment Tape measure and pencil *See Top Section Doors re moulding width


Top Section Frame 1. The top section of the hutch comprises a basic frame with two sides mounted between the top and bottom sections. To attach the sides, drill pilot holes and countersink through the top and bottom into the sides and drive in 4 x 45mm screws. NOTE: It’s important to countersink as these holes will later be ďŹ lled in and sanded smooth. 2. Adding the shelves is the next step. You can either screw these into place, or drill holes for shelf pins to have adjustable shelves. If screwing into position you will need to measure and mark on both the inside and outside of the side frame sections. If you are working on your own, turn the entire section onto it’s side to make it easier. Again, drill pilot holes and countersink through the outside of the frame sides to mount the shelves. 3. The next step is to add the front side panels. The two front side panels are mounted on top of the frame. You will drill pilot holes and countersink before using 3 x 30mm screws to attach the side panels. NOTE: All joined sections are glued in addition to using screws. 4. With the side panels on you can add the hinges. Mark down 100mm from the top and up 100mm from the bottom to position and attach the hinges on the inside edge of each side panel. 27

Here is a view of the top section after assembly. You can see the screws in the side frame to attach the inside shelves. Also note that the inside shelves are not as wide as the top and bottom sections. However, you can make these wide if you wish.

Top Section Doors The two doors for the top section are fitted with chicken wire. To make the doors you will need to cut out a rectangle in each door (***** x ****), leaving a frame that is as wide as the moulding you will add. My frame is 50mm wide and the moulding is 50mm wide... perfect! NOTE: Paint the door frame and moulding before assembly. 1. Cut the chicken wire slightly larger - about 20mm all around - and use a staple gun to attach the wire to each door frame that you have cut. Staple the top and bottom first and then the sides, pulling gentle as you staple.


NOTE: You will find that the staples will not go completely into the board and this is where the hammer comes in play. Tap the staples flat. 2. Cut the moulding to length with mitred corners to fit perfectly over the top of the chicken wire. Glue into place with No More Nails and clamp until the adhesive is set.

Here’s a view of the frames once finished. If there are any gaps between the joints at the mitred corners or around the edge between the frame and the moulding - fill this in with No More Nails adhesive. Wipe off any excess with a slightly damp cloth.

3. I sanded and painted all the completed sections after assembly, but for the purpose of this project, sand and paint the top section before attaching the doors. As you can see, I spray all my furniture using a Bosch PFS spray system. Not only does it use less paint, it also leaves a smooth finish that is excellent for painting any furniture project. NOTE: It isn’t necessary to apply primer as the spray gun applies a light coat that serves as an undercoat or primer coat.

4. Once the paint is dry you can attach the doors onto the hinges mounted on the side frames. See Top Section Frame point 4 above. 5. Finish off the top cabinet by drilling and attaching your door knobs.


Bottom Section Frame The bottom section of the hutch differs slightly in design, as the side panels have a cut out at the bottom. 1. Measure up and in 100mm from each corner on both side panels and draw a line across before cutting this section out with a jigsaw. 2. Measure up 100mm on the inside of both side panels and mark. Use this mark to attach the base. Drill pilot holes and countersink through the side panels to attach the base. Repeat this for the top. 3. The bottom section has two drawers are the top and you need to mark down from under the top panel 100mm on both sides. Use this mark to mount the drawer support and then attach the centre section. 4. Attach the top; drilling pilot holes and countersink before driving in screws along the edge and then attach the front side panels as per the top section. 5. You can add moulding or cut your own detail for decorative effect. Any detail is simply glued and screwed underneath the base.

You will ďŹ nd a fairly comprehensive selection of moulding and trim that you can add to your furniture at your local Builders Warehouse. 30

Bottom Section Doors 1. Make up the doors by gluing 6mm SupaWood frames around the edge of the door back. These corners are not mitred as shown right. Fill in any gaps with No More Nails adhesive. 2. Make up the drawer sections. Paint the drawer front before screwing onto the drawer section. 3. As with the top section, I sanded and painted all the completed sections after assembly, but for the purpose of this project, sand and paint the top section before attaching the doors. 4. Attach hinges and doors as per Top Section Frame and Doors previously.

Bottom Section Drawers 1. Glue and screw the drawer frame together. The base ďŹ ts inside the frame and is glued and screwed in place. sides

2. Spray paint the front of the drawer and attach to the frame once the glue and paint is dry. Attach your choice of handle. After painting is complete, attach a white-fronted masonite backing board to the top and bottom sections.


Here is a side view of the completed cabinet. Notice how to top on the base section sticks out slightly and that I have added additional moulding to the top section. After assembly is finished and painting is done you can distress the piece to your liking. This hutch was only given a light distressing and I used a Dremel MultiMax and 120-grit sandpaper to distress. Only a gentle stroke over edges and corners is needed.

Have the Dremel MultiMax on a medium speed setting to sand. Alternatively, you can sand with sandpaper for the same effect. The entire piece is then rubbed down with Woodoc Antique Wax.

Woodoc Antique Wax is perfect for finishing off Shabby Chic, distressed or whitewashed furniture. It provides a satin-smooth finish that protects. 32

craft & hobby organiser 33

This craft and hobby organiser is perfect for controlling clutter and keeping all your craft and hobby supplies handy. The organiser features shelves, drawers and a place to hang wrapping paper or fabric.

YOU WILL NEED: All board is PG Bison 16mm SupaWood* 2 x 250 x 1000mm - sides 2 x 250 x 768mm - top/bottom shelf 1 x 250 x 368mm - shelf 1 x 250 x 416mm - shelf 1 x 250 x 266mm - centre divider 1 x 250 x 150mm - drawer divider 1 x 798 x 996 of 3mm masonite - backing board 3 x 18mm diameter x 800mm long pine dowels 3 x 30mm wood screws Wood ďŹ ller Wood glue Tape measure and pencil TOOLS Drill/Driver plus assorted bits Countersink bit 18mm spade bit Clamps Jigsaw and clean-cut jigsaw blade Orbital sander plus 120- & 240-grit sanding pads Staple gun and 8mm staples or steel tacks


*We specify PG Bison SupaWood for this project, as this board has a smooth ďŹ nish that is ideal for painting. Ask for SupaWood at your local Builders Warehouse or timber merchant.

You will find everything you need for this project at your local Builders Warehouse.

NOTE: The dimensions of this craft organiser are 1000mm(H) x 800mm(W) x 250mm(D). You can alter these measurements as required.





250mm 266mm


1. Use a jigsaw to round off the top and bottom outside corners on both sides. Attach the sides to the top and bottom shelves. Do this by measuring and marking as shown and then drill pilot holes, countersink and drive screws through the sides into the shelf edges.


2. With the shelves in place it’s now easier to add the centre support and horizontal shelf dividers. Drill pilot holes through the top and bottom of the shelf supports, countersink and drive screws through the top and bottom supports to attach the centre support.


100mm 150mm

3. Measure 300mm from the side to mount the cubby centre support as shown left.

4. Make up the individual storage drawers. One drawer is 100mm wide x 150mm high and the second drawer is 300mm wide x 150mm high. Attach handles or pulls to the drawers as required.


5. To ďŹ t the dowels for holding wrapping paper of rolls of ribbon, use a Dremel Trio or router to cut out 3 slots - on each side - 18mm wide and 8mm deep. At the inside edge of this slot, use an 18mm spade bit to drill a hole to a depth of 8mm. This slot will allow insertion of dowels that can be easily slotted in and out. 6. After ďŹ nishing - see below - staple or tack a 3mm masonite backing board to the craft organiser.

FINISHING You can paint the entire assembly using acrylic paint or you can use RustOleum 2X UltraCover spray paint. If you have a Bosch PFS spray system, this is ideal for spraying furniture projects. Try the new range of Modo paints at your local Builders Warehouse.





The idea of being able to make my own stools really appeals to me. Being a bit of a shorty, it’s not easy to find stools that I can easily and comfortably sit on. You can modify these stools to any height - and any bum size - to fit perfectly into your home. Another plus for making these stylish stools is the fact that you can buy all the materials you need at your local Builders Warehouse and it will only cost around R300 to make all three. My thanks to lazy liz on less for this project

YOU WILL NEED: 2 of 1.8 metres 44 x 44mm PAR pine* 2 of 1,8 metres 20 x 44mm PAR pine 2 of 270 x 380mm pine - glued together for seat top Wood filler Wood glue Acrylic paint or Rust-Oleum 2X spray paint

The Kreg Pockethole Jig is probably one of the handiest tools you can have for DIY furniture projects

TOOLS Pockethole jig (or substitute with steel corner/angle braces Drill/Driver plus assorted bits Orbital Sander plus 120- and 240-grit sanding pads Wood chisel Circular saw or Dremel SawMax *The stool legs in this project are 760mm in length, but you can modify the length to suit the height you require.





760mm 190mm



1. At the top of each leg cut a 5 degree angle as shown in the diagram below. 2. Cut a 5-degree angle in all cross strips as shown in the diagram below.

5 degree angle at top of each leg

5 degree angle on both sides of cross strips

3. Use a pockethole jig to drill a single pockethole at both ends of all the cross strips and then, starting at the top, attach these to the legs.

4. Once all the cross pieces are attached to the legs, your stool should look something like the one shown on the left.

NOTE: The stool was originally designed with single 20mm-thick pine legs. However, it is far better to use 44 x 44mm or 50 x 50mm PAR pine for the legs. The project measurements allow for 44 x 44mm legs, but adjust if you plan to use 50 x 50mm legs.


5. The curvy top adds to the overall design on the stool and makes them more comfortable. To achieve this shape, I adjusted my circular saw blade to varying depths cut the wood. Chip away excess wood with a wood chisel. If you have a Dremel SawMax, this tool is ideal for cutting grooves of varying depths and far easier than using a circular saw.

6. Use a sharp wood chisel to chip away the wood along the cut lines. If you have never used a wood chisel before, this project will definitely give you plenty of practice! 7. With the outline now taking shape, you can use a sander and 120-grit sanding pads to give it a smooth shape and then use 240-grit sanding pads to finish off. 8. Attach the seat to the base of the stool with steel angle brackets mounted to the underside of the seat and the frame of the legs and cross supports. 9. Use wood filler to fill in pocketholes, or a mixture and wood glue and sawdust from the chipping. Leave to dry and then sand smooth.


Paint the stools with acrylic paint and a paintbrush in your choice of colour, or grab a can of Rust-Oleum to add colour the easy way!


Reuse - Recycle - Repurpose Designer scarves There are plenty of ways to repurpose old clothes. One of my favourites is the popular trend for making scarves with old t-shirts and jersey weaves. You can create your own designer scarves for nothing but a little imagination.



1. Cut the bottom hem off at to create a straight line along the bottom. 2. Cut 2cm strips across the shirt all the way up to the armpits. No need be perfect about it, once you stretch out the strips, you’ll never notice.


I got 17 strips out of my shirt - you may get more or less depending on how long the shirt & how wide your strips. 3. Stretch out the strips to make them about the same length. You’d have to stretch really hard in order to break or rip them, so no need to be gentle.

4. Since, I had a shirt with seams, I wanted to hide the seams underneath the wrapping. I also didn’t want the seams to create a giant lumps, so when I gathered the loops I spread the seams out a bit and then tried to get the loops as straight and untangled as a I could. I used 16 of my loops. 5. With the 17th loop, I cut it in half at the seams to use as the wrapper on either end. First I tucked the strip into the loops and then started wrapping tightly and *neatly* to cover the seams. At the end of the wrapping, I did some creative knot to tie it off. Then I used the other half of the strip to do the other side.




The ever popular 57cm Weber Charcoal braai now comes in bone, grey, lemon grass and brick red. Not only now in colour, these family favourites have a variety of new features for the braai enthusiast. The lid-mounted thermometer ensures perfect cooking temperature, while the protective heat shield keeps you cool while cooking.

For camping enthusiasts and those that like to braai on the move, you can also get the Weber® Smokey Joe ® in gold sage and turquoise.

glorious gardening

Forget black... now you can add colour to your patio with the new range of Weber charcoal braais in a selection of trendy colours.

Check out these new models online at www.

With it’s large 37cm cooking area, the portable braai is perfect for outdoor holidays and evening braais on the beach.


Summer temperatures are on the increase and depending on where you live, this summer could be shaping up to be a scorcher for you. As temperatures climb, many of us retreat indoors. However, it is possible to enjoy being outside throughout the sultry months if you take a few steps to keep your outdoor living spaces as cool as possible. Here are a few ways to keep your cool this summer: Shade is a smart, natural way to lower the temperature in an outdoor setting.

You can even use nature to create shade by strategically positioning trees and shrubs or vinecovered trellises. When considering shade options, keep in mind the time of day your outdoor space gets the most sun and position shade elements accordingly. What you sit on can be just as important to your cooling comfort as where you sit. To minimise heat absorption, choose outdoor furnishings that will enhance 48

image: houzz

You can find plenty of options for creating shade at your local Builders Warehouse; from simple and temporary solutions like umbrellas, to more permanent and decorative tactics such as retractable awnings. coolness such as pieces upholstered in light fabrics or naturally breathable materials like wicker. Avoid metal, which will heat up in the sun, or darker-hued wood or vinyl furniture, since dark colours absorb more sunlight and will make your seating area feel hotter.

food fun anytime - anywhere snacks


Bruschetta is one of those great social foods because of the friendly informality it inspires in your guests. Pretty much anything tastes great when dolloped on top of a garlicky slice of baguette. The perfect stylish snack to serve at a cocktail party, bruschetta is also lovely to take along to a braai – just toast the bread on the grid and allow everyone to do the rest. Build-your-own-bruschetta has a nice ring to it! 49

3 delicious bruschetta ideas 1. Parma Ham & Minted Peas Ingredients: 2 cups frozen peas ½ cup fresh mint 1 lemon, zested 1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil 6 slices Parma ham 2 cloves garlic, minced Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 baguette or similar 1/4 cup olive oil • Method: Prepare the minted peas ďŹ rst. Parboil the peas for half a minute in water that has just boiled




but has been taken off the hot stove. Drain. Place in a blender with fresh mint, lemon zest, a dash of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Blend until combined but still chunky. Allow to cool. Preheat the grill on medium-high. Cut the baguette diagonally into 1cm thick slices. Place the bread slices, in a single layer, on a baking tray and season with salt and pepper and a good drizzle of olive oil. Cook under the grill for 1-2 minutes on each side or until toasted. Rub 1 garlic clove, peeled and halved, over one side of each piece of toast.


2. Bruschetta with tomato and basil

each slice of bread with a dollop of pesto and fresh basil to serve. If you top each slice with the tomatoes, do it right before serving so that the bread does not get soggy.

• Ingredients: 1 baguette or similar 2 garlic cloves, peeled and halved 4 ripe large tomatoes, finely chopped or two handfuls of cherry tomatoes, halved ½ red onion, finely chopped ¼ cup basil pesto ¼ cup fresh basil 1/4 cup olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste • Method: Preheat the grill on mediumhigh. Cut the baguette diagonally into 1cm thick slices. Place the slices, in a single layer, on a baking tray and season with salt and pepper and a good drizzle of olive oil. Cook under the grill for 1-2 minutes on each side or until toasted. Rub 1 garlic clove, peeled and halved, over 1 side of each piece of toast. Combine the tomatoes, onion and remaining garlic (finely sliced or minced) in a small bowl. Drizzle with a little olive oil. Place the bread on a serving platter. Either place the tomato topping and pesto in a bowl separately with a spoon for people to serve themselves, or place a spoonful of topping on

3. Bruschetta with humus, avocado and marinated artichokes • Ingredients: 1 cup humus 1 ripe avocado, peeled and sliced 8 marinated artichokes, quartered Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 baguette or similar 1/4 cup olive oil

• Method: Preheat grill on medium-high. Cut the baguette diagonally into 1cm thick slices. Place the bread slices, in a single layer, on a baking tray and season with salt and pepper and a good drizzle of olive oil. Cook under grill for 1-2 minutes on each side or until toasted. Rub 1 garlic clove, peeled and halved, over one side of each piece of toast. Place bread on a serving platter. Generously spread each slice with humus, top with avocado slices and artichokes. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.


HALLOWEEN HORRORS! Ask mom for a pack of pot scourers and make up a collection of Halloween horrors to scare family and friends. You will need to look around for items that you can use to stick on to make wings and feet, or other body parts to make your creatures as scary as can be. 52

1. Paint the pot scourers in different colours using craft paint and a paintbrush.

2. Make eyes, ears and noses from cut out cardboard and coloured paper. 3. Use a hot glue gun on low heat setting to stick the eyes and noses onto the scourers.

6. Glue pieces of cotton twine onto the sponges for arms and legs. 7. Look around the house for items that you can use for feet and other body parts, such as wings, and glue these onto the scourer as well.


More great projects for you to make and take home Beginners & Advanced Workshops Basic Electrical and Plumbing Workshops Basic Welding | Career Workshops Every Saturday morning from 09:00 to 12:00 54








Home-Dzine Online - October 2012  

Ideas and inspiration for homeowners