Thing have certainly changed—establishments like Vintage being a major catalyst for the area’s revitalization—but eleven years in, the neighborhood wine bar is just doing what it’s always done: “try to be a teaching bar,” says Burgos, by offering as many as 70 wines by the glass, thoughtful flights, an enthusiastic and educated staff, at reasonable prices. “We want to take that intimidation and snobbiness out of it. We wear T-shirts. We’re just a pub for wine.” Customers have responded to that easygoing philosophy, creating a cadre of loyal regulars that gather beneath Vintage’s pressed-tin ceilings and a chandelier of upside-down green-glass wine bottles. Embossed with the names of estates and chateaux, boards pried off wine crates line on wall, facing another of the exposed brick that glows copper and rust when the sun streams in from the storefront windows. Behind the bar, Burogs displays part of his collection on wooden racks: Cune Rosado, a Tempranillo rosé from Rioja, organic Mäyr Gruner-Veltliner, Chilean Carménère, Yakima Valley Lemberger and more. “We look for small, boutique vineyards and esoteric wines, stepping outside the usual Cab-merlot-Chardonnay-sauvignon blanc [circuit]. Because we keep things at a price range, people feel comfortable trying something new. They don’t have to commit to a bottle, so maybe they’ll say, ‘I’ve never heard of ugni blanc or pinot gris, but why not try it?’” Featuring three to four tasting-sized pours, Vintage’s flights are a great way to sample across the stash. “Nine out of ten” flight feature off-menu specials Burgos is excited about, like the aforementioned Txakoli, a family of effervescent sparklers from Spain’s Basque region. And thanks to Mackenzie Hilton, the culinary director for the entire restaurant group, Vintage has food to match its wines, from house-made country pâté to a Morbier-topped burger that pairs beautifully with a glass of Bodega Ruca Malen’s high-altitude Uco Valley Malbec. 129 South 13th Street, vintage-philadelphia.com
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