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arts &

ARTS & ColleCTionS inTeRnATionAl

ColleCtIons

T h e i n T e r n aT i o n a l m a g a z i n e o f a r T a n d c u lT u r e

i n t e r n at i o n a l

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www.ARTSAnDColleCTionS.Com VolUme 2 2017

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AUCTION

CITIES

Of

CUlTUrE

CHINESE

ArT

fINE

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Nano-Mosaic, Sapphire glass, Rose Gold, Round brilliant cut Diamonds, Black Diamonds, Brown Diamonds, Python strap, Swiss Movement

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jewels.sicis.com Damisa Gold Necklace & Ring Nano-Mosaic - White Gold - Diamonds - Sapphires - Imperial Topaz

15A Dover St., Mayfair, W1S 4LR London ¡ T.+44 (0) 207 491 9849 ¡ london@sicis.com

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Contents features 18 32 36 38 41

fahrelnissa zeid

The pioneering Turkish artist and princess receives her first UK retrospective this summer.

love, sex & diversity

Famous institutions across the country unveil their exhibitions to educate, commemorate and celebrate diversity in every form—leading the discourse on LGBTQ experiences, past and present.

faces of a nation

An upcoming exhibition at Tate Liverpool charts how two artists responded to the glamour and misery of Weimar Germany.

chinese art: a worthwhile investment

Record-breaking auction sales of Chinese artefacts prove that the Chinese art market is flourishing. We look at where to begin when investing.

discovering europe

From Rome and Florence to London and Paris, Europe boasts a great variety of artistic and cultural treasures.

the world of superyachts

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the influencer: a balenciaga retrospective

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safeguarding the arts

Arts & Collections International speaks to Bank of America Merrill Lynch’s Rena DeSisto about the corporation’s Art Conservation Project.

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Cover: The Memory of Autumn Leaves and The Dream of Autumn Leaves diamond earrings © courtesy of Sotheby’s. Turn to page 26 to read about the most recent record-breaking sales made at auction.

The Monaco Yacht Show returns from 27 to 30 September, offering the latest in luxury cutting-edge design.

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The V&A unveils its newest exhibition to celebrate the pioneering designs of Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga.

reigning fashion

Dior, one of the most prestigious couture houses on the planet, is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. An exhibition in Melbourne charts its phenomenal history with an exclusive and elegant retrospective.

jewellery meets art

A new exhibition at The National Museum of Modern Art in Kyoto draws parallels between Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewellery and traditional Japanese crafts.

image © Sotheby’S; 123rf; catwalking; DacS 2017. leopolD-hoeSch-muSeum & papiermuSeum Düren. photo: peter hinSchläger.

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luxury home collectables

Collectors are travelling far and wide to discover the rarest and most desirable of possessions. Some in our selection can be found to date back to the 7th century, while others are set to become classics of our era.

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Bringing you a mix of the high-minded, eccentric, regal, random and unmissable events as we look ahead through 2017.

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wINE mINE

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AUCTION HIGHLIGHTS

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TREASURES

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A jOURNEy THROUGH TImE

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wHERE TO SPEND IT

Join Arts & Collections International in raising a glass to some of the finest wine regions to visit in the world. The record-breaking, the eclectic and the unique; we bring you the latest from the world’s most renowned auction houses. Our series highlights a single item of artistry or craftsmanship that is both rare and exquisite.

The mosaic as a form of art has been around for millenniums. We take a look at how different cultures and ancient civilisations influenced its evolution through the ages.

From Montblanc’s innovative watches to artistic Louis Vuitton bags, the latest luxury goods on our list are a must-have for any collection.

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imageS: Sotheby’S; ShutterStock; 123rf; montblanc; 2017 artiStS rightS Society (arS), new york

image © Sotheby’S; 123rf; catwalking; DacS 2017. leopolD-hoeSch-muSeum & papiermuSeum Düren. photo: peter hinSchläger.

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HAPPENINGS

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Publisher & CEO Kevin J. Harrington Editor Annalisa D’Alessio Sub Editor Kayley Loveridge Art Editor Friyan Mehta

Arts & Collections International has partnered with over 120 of the world’s finest luxury and boutique hotels to provide the highest quality coverage of global art and cultural events, as well as auctions of interest and the latest developments in the global art market. It is this blend of interesting and informative editorial that is most appealing to guests at these premier hotels, who have a great interest in admiring and purchasing fine art and collectables.

Feature Writer Phoebe Ollerearnshaw Editorial Assistant Tom Allaway Production Director Joanna Harrington Production Coordinator Courtney Stephens-Donaghey Production & Administration Adam Linard-Stevens Editorial oFFiCE Arts & Collections International Suite 2 143 Caledonian Road London N1 0SL United Kingdom Telephone: 020 7870 9090 editorial@damsonmedia.com www.damsonmedia.com CHiCaGo oFFiCE Arts & Collections International 730 N. Franklin St. Suite 604, Chicago, IL 60654, USA THE OPINIONS ExPRESSED IN THIS MAGAzINE SHOULD NOT bE CONSIDERED OFFICIAL OPINIONS OF THE PUbLISHER OR EDITOR. THE PUbLISHER RESERvES THE RIGHT TO ACCEPT OR REjECT ALL EDITORIAL OR ADvERTISING MATTER. THE PUbLISHER ASSUMES NO RESPONSIbILITy FOR UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS OR ARTWORK. IMAGES ARE SENT AT THE OWNERS’ RISK AND THE PUbLISHER TAKES NO RESPONSIbILITy FOR LOSS.

© 2017 DAMSON MEDIA ALL RIGHTS RESERvED. REPRODUCTION IN WHOLE OR IN PART OF ANy TExT, PHOTOGRAPH OR ILLUSTRATION WITHOUT PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE PUbLISHER IS STRICTLy PROHIbITED. PRINTED IN THE UK.

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Arts & Collections International’s dedicated website, artsandcollections.com, features detailed information on each of the 120 luxury hotels promoting the publication in their exclusive rooms and suites.

make up ARTIST ROOMS: August Sander, offering viewers a fascinating snapshot of Weimar Germany. Pages 32-35

50years

since the Sexual Offences Act was passed—a law that partially decriminalised homosexuality in England and Wales. Pages 18-22

$71m

A pink 59.60-carat diamond sold for this record-breaking amount at Sotheby’s Hong Kong. Pages 26-31

All of the exclusive previews, reviews and expert commentary pieces that appear in the pages of Arts & Collections International are also available to view on artsandcollections.com. In addition, the website provides a directory of upcoming auctions by Sotheby’s and other top auction houses, plus exhibitions and popular cultural events, keeping visitors fully informed, as well as providing a comprehensive resource area for collectors and connoisseurs.

Arts & Collections International is published quarterly and is available on subscription for €40 (Europe) or €45 (worldwide) per annum including post and packaging. Please email editorial@damsonmedia.com for further details regarding subscriptions.

$332 million Asian Art Week at Christie’s New york totalled this recordbreaking amount. Pages 36-37

1901

the year Fahrelnissa zeid, a famous female artist, was born in Turkey. Pages 12-17

images: © sotheby’s; tate; raad bin zeid collection; dior

DamsonMedia

It Figures... 140 images

70 years since Christian Dior founded the iconic fashion house in Paris. Pages 68-72

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Breaking the glass Ceiling

Editorial

We stop to consider how art is helping to break invisible—but very real—barriers

Below: Solomon, Simeon (1840-1905) Sappho and Erinna in a Garden at Mytilene, 1864 Watercolour on paper 330 x 381 mm Tate. Purchased 1980.

Above: John Craxton Head of a Greek Sailor (1940) Oil on board 330 x 305 mm London Borough of Camden.

Images: © estate of John Craxton. all rIghts reserved, daCs 2016; tate

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n this issue of Arts & Collections International, we take the time to reflect on a word that some have come to take for granted: freedom— in any and all of its versions and meanings. Artistic freedom, freedom of speech, freedom to love, freedom of choice and freedom of expression. This year marks the 50th anniversary of the passing of the Sexual Offences Act, a law that partially decriminalised homosexuality in England and Wales. We explore the importance of this landmark moment in the movement for equality through our coverage of various exhibitions and displays rich in past, recent and ongoing expressions of same-sex desire, love and identities. Princess Fahrelnissa Zeid, who is now known as one of the most influential Turkish female artists, broke free in her own way from the cultural and social constraints of her time. The artist, who is receiving her first retrospective in the UK, was one of the first females to attend the Fine Arts Academy in Istanbul. Her works are now celebrated worldwide—in 2012

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Bonhams sold a collection of her paintings for over £2 million and, this year, the artist’s second-largest work to appear at auction sold for almost £1.3 million at Sotheby’s in London. In this issue we also explore creativity, innovation and artistic talent at its best by commemorating the anniversaries of two of the most famous couture houses on the planet—Dior, who celebrates 70 years of style and Balenciaga, who has been dictating and breaking fashion rules for a century. We also remind ourselves of why the arts are so important and of our duty to protect them. The Bank of America Merrill Lynch Art Conservation Project goes a long way in doing just that—each year the scheme awards grants to protect and conserve invaluable works that could otherwise be lost or irreparably damaged. Here at Arts & Collections International, we strongly believe that the arts matter: they deeply enrich our society and connect individuals from all over the world—across all countries, cultures and religions. •

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Happenings // events

Happenings Bringing you a mix of the high-minded, eccentric, regal, random and unmissable events as we look ahead through 2017 By Annalisa D’Alessio

This colourful exhibition, running from 24 February until 20 August 2017 at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, covers Dutch artist Karel Appel’s entire career from the 40s until his death in 2006. Known as one of the founding fathers of the CoBrA group—an ensemble of artists who set out to eclipse

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abstract art, which they saw as too rigid and rational—Appel is best known for his avant-garde style. The display will include a variety of the artist’s landmark works, among them the Carnet d’Art Psychopathologique, as well as other paintings and ceramic sculptures dating back to the 50s.

Images: © Karel appel FoundatIon / adagp, parIs 2017

Art As A CelebrAtion Above: Karel Appel Monde animal, 1948 Huile sur toile 96 x 126 cm Musée d’Art moderne de la Ville de Paris.

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EvEnts // happenings

Images: © 2017 Pollock-krasner FoundatIon/ artIsts rIghts socIety (ars), new york

Women Artists And PostWAr AbstrAction Shining a light on the artistic achievements of women between the end of World War I and the beginning of the feminist movement in the late 60s, Making Space: Women Artists and Postwar Abstraction features 100 landmark works—many on view for the first time at the famous Museum of Modern Art in New York. Running from 15 April until 13 August 2017, the display—which is comprised of an extremely diverse range of art including paintings, drawings, sculptures and textiles—explores international abstraction. The collection emphasises the contributions women made during the postwar decades, a notoriously pivotal moment in art history, and is organised in five key sections: Gestural Abstraction, Geometric Abstraction, Reductive Abstraction, Fiber and Line and Eccentric Abstraction. Above: Lee Krasner Gaea, 1966 Oil on Canvas 175.3 x 318.8 cm The Museum of Modert Art, New York Kay Sage Tanguy Fund, 1977. Right: Anne Ryan Collage, 353, 1949 Pasted coloured papers, cloth and string on paper 19 x 17.5 cm The Museum of Modern Art, New York Gift of Elizabeth McFadden, 1978.

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Happenings // events

Art AnD moDern WArfAre With a landmark exhibition, the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia is celebrating the 80th anniversary of the first public showing of one of the world’s best-known historical paintings—Picasso’s Guernica. The show, running from 4 April until 4 September 2017, explores the Spanish artist’s depiction of modern warfare and emphasises the evolution of his work from the late 20s until the mid-40s, a period of great historical tumult. Pity and Terror, Picasso’s Path to Guernica features over 180 works of art from some of the world’s most prominent institutions, including the Museé Picasso, the Tate Modern in London, the MoMA, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the Beyeler Foundation in Basel. The exhibition centers around Guernica, treating the colossal work as a pivotal part of the evolution of Picasso’s art.

Left: Pablo Picasso Woman Dressing Her Hair, Royan, June 1940 The Museum of Modern Art, New York.

The Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain is once again focusing its attention on the world of cars—30 years after its famous exhibition paying homage to the Ferrari. AutoPhoto explores the relationship between photography and the automobile. Running from 19 April until 1 October 2017, the show features as many as 500 works spanning from the beginning of the 20th century to present time and will invite viewers to explore the many aspects of automotive culture from aesthetic, social, environmental and industrial principles. Bringing together works by some 90 photographers from around the world— including William Eggleston, Justine Kurland, Jacques Henri Lartigue and Jacqueline Hassink—the exhibition is divided into seven main sections designed to guide people on a journey through the development of new perspectives in photography.

Left: Lee Friedlander California, 2008 From America by Car series Gelatin silver print 37.5 × 37.5 cm Courtesy Fraenkel Gallery, San Francisco.

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Images: © sucesIón PIcasso. VegaP, 2017; Lee FrIedLander, courtesy FraenkeL gaLLery, san FrancIsco

Developing Automotive photogrAphy

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EvEnts // happenings

The Charms of VeniCe Running from 19 May until 12 November 2017 at The Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham Palace, this exhibition showcases a splendid selection of 18th century Venetian art. Canaletto & the Art of Venice explores beauties of the famous northern Italian city built on canals—with an emphasis on depictions of St Mark’s Square, the Grand Canal, theatre scenes and its world-famous carnival festivities. Along with precious works of art created by Canaletto (1697-1768)—Venice’s most famous painter of views—the show will also feature notable pieces from artists such as Francesco Zuccarelli, Rosalba Carriera, Pietro Longhi and Giovanni Battista Piazzetta.

Left: Canaletto Venice: The Central Stretch of the Grand Canal, c.1734 Royal Collection Trust.

Images: © Her majesty Queen elIzabetH II 2016; 2017 artIsts rIgHts socIety (ars), new york/aDagP, ParIs

Pioneering innoVaTion Opening on 10 February—to coincide with the 80th anniversary of the inception of the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation—and running until 6 September, Visionaries: Creating a Modern Guggenheim shines a spotlight on some of the foundation’s most iconic works. Exploring avantgarde innovations in art from the 19th to the 20th century, this display features as many as 170 works and celebrates the groundbreaking efforts of the arts patrons that shaped the Guggenheim Foundation and made it the forwardthinking institution that it is today. Artists such as Paul Cézanne, Marc Chagall, Vasily Kandinsky, Pablo Picasso, Jackson Pollock and Vincent van Gogh are just a few of the big names on show.

Right: Max Ernst The Antipope, December 1941–March 1942 Oil on canvas 160.8 x 127.1 cm The Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice, 1976.

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COLLECTIONS // arT

Fahrelnissa Zeid The pioneering Turkish artist and princess receives her first UK retrospective this summer By Hannah Guinness

Above: Untitled, c.1950 Oil paint on canvas Tate Presented by Raad Zeid Al-Hussein 2015.

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aRT // COLLECTIONS

IMAGES: © RAAd bIn ZEId CollECtIon

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ahrelnissa Zeid’s epic, vividly colourful abstract canvases represent a dynamic fusion of European sensibilities with Islamic, Persian and Byzantine touches—a compelling cocktail that Tate Modern will explore this summer in a major new retrospective of the artist. Zeid was born in 1901 on the island of Büyükada off the coast of Istanbul to a prominent Ottoman family of intellectuals and artists. Introduced to painting at an early age, in 1919 she became one of the first women to train formally as an artist in Istanbul when she enrolled at the Imperial School of Art. She later studied in Paris in the 20s under the tutelage of critic and Cubist artist Roger Bissière—a period that would have a profound effect on Zeid’s art. Zeid’s work in the first decades of her career danced between different

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Above: Triton Octopus, 1953 styles, subjects and movements—from Oil paint on canvas Fauvism to Cubism—and showed an 181 x 270 cm increasing preoccupation with colour. Istanbul Modern Collection/ Eczacibaşi Group She first came to public prominence in Donation. the early 40s through her experimental work with the avant-garde Turkish group ‘Group D’. Her work from this period reflects a distinctive, highly individual approach that blended western and eastern aesthetics. She held her first highly successful solo exhibition in her own apartment in Istanbul In 2013 Zeid became the most in the mid-40s, and expensive Middle Eastern female artist pieces from that show, such as Three Ways of when her 1964 work, Break of the Living (War) (1943) and Atom and Vegetal Life (1962), sold at Three Moments in a Day and a Life (1944) Christie’s Dubai for $2.7 million will be on display at Tate Modern. This was

Record-breaking artist

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Do you know the difference between an ART HOTEL and an ART RESORT? Art Hotels have a scattering of artworks mainly in the Lobby while an Art Resort is a Museum with many Artworks where soaking up new ideas for personal growth and might have rooms and plenty of grounds to better indulge the experience.There are not many ART RESORTS.Financial Times found six of which only one in Europe. Would it not be nice if you as an Art lover could spend your holidays in such a place? Utopic? ES REVELLAR ART RESORT close by in the Mediterranean Europe. No Jet lag, low airfares, clean and safe environment, top health facilities, placid rural setting, best turquoise water beaches, wonderful sailing waters, only 24 minutes from a hub Airport, with an excellent show cooking and slow food restaurant with own orchard.. We are probably the seventh Art Resort worldwide and second in Europe, but the only one with rooms. Can an Art Resort be a good hotel? After researching guest reviews from one million hotels in the whole World, ES REVELLAR ART RESORT is placed in the top best 3%. Also been selected as Best Luxury Country Hotel by the World Luxury Hotel Awards. What to see? LAND ART: Fifteen major installations, within more than 30.000sqm of wonderful renaissance gardens with 20 fountains, 8 lakes, hundreds of art works, tropical and palm trees. ETHNIC ART: African Art, New Guinea-Papua and Eastern Island collections second to none. ROMANESQUE ART: One of the best medieval religious art collections. SPANISH PAINTINGS & SCULPTURES: Miró, Picasso, Tàpies, Viola, Calder and many others. The largest open air Mural, dedicated to Greek Classical Myths. Where In the unexploited South of Mallorca Island. Rooms 17 guest rooms and villas. Prices Reasonable, good value for money.

It is true. We Exist. VISIT www.revellarartresort.com DISCOUNT CODE valid until 30th June 2017: ARTCOL

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IMAGES: © RAAd bIn ZEId CollECtIon

aRT // COLLECTIONS

Above: Third Class Passengers, 1943 Oil paint on plywood 130 x 100 cm Istanbul Modern Collection/ Eczacibaşi Group Donation.

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IMAGES: © RAAd bIn ZEId CollECtIon; pRInCESS fAhRElnISSA ZEId

COLLECTIONS // arT

Above: Resolved Problems, 1948 Oil paint on canvas 130 x 97 cm Istanbul Modern Collection/ Eczacibaşi Group Donation.

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aRT // COLLECTIONS

followed by shows in London, Paris and New York—where she made her debut with a collection of large abstract canvases at the Hugo Gallery. She went on to participate in almost 50 exhibitions across Europe, the U.S. and the Middle East. Zeid’s move to the United Kingdom in 1945 coincided with a shift in focus from figurative to abstract pieces, and it was a period of critical success for the artist, who lived between London and Paris as her husband, Prince Zeid El-Hussein—a member of Iraq’s ruling Hashemite royal family—worked as the Iraqi ambassador. Notable pieces created during this time that reflect Zeid’s transition into abstract art include Fight against Abstraction (1947), with its bold use of black lines, and Resolved Problems (1948), whose vivid hues and motifs anticipated op and kinetic art. The peak of Zeid’s career as an abstract artist who fused eastern and western sensibilities in her work will be represented by key pieces from her important 1954 exhibition at the Institute of Contemporary Art in London, such as My Hell (1953), The Octopus of Triton (1953) and Sargasso Sea (1953). Zeid and her husband were made to leave the luxurious surroundings of the Iraqi embassy when the Hashemite royal family was assassinated in a military coup in Iraq in 1958. Moving into a smaller flat and learning how to cook for herself, her culinary endeavours inspired new artistic experiments, with Zeid casting turkey and chicken bones on stained glass-like polyester resin panels—examples of which will be seen in the show at Tate Modern. The latter part of her career saw Zeid switch back to the figurative painting of her youth, spending the last 20 years creating anti-naturalistic portraits of friends and family. Examples of these, such as the imposing Charles Estienne (1964), will also be on show. She saw out her last years in Amman in Jordan, where she set up her home as an informal art school for an international collective of female students—named the Fahrelnissa Zeid Institute of Fine Arts. She died, aged 89, on 5 September 1991. •

Below: Unknown photographer Fahrelnissa Zeid in her studio, Paris, c.1950s Raad bin Zeid Collection.

» Fahrelnissa Zeid runs from 13 June to 8 October at Tate Modern. For more information, visit tate.org.uk.

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COLLECTIONS // arT

Love, Sex & Diversity Famous institutions across the country unveil their exhibitions to educate, commemorate and celebrate diversity in every form—leading the discourse on LGBTQ experiences, past and present By Phoebe Ollerearnshaw

Above: Henry Scott Tuke (1858-1929) The Critics, 1927 Oil on board 412 x 514 mm Warwick District Council (Leamington Spa, UK).

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aRT // COLLECTIONS

Images: © otsuka takashI

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his year marks the 50th anniversary of the Sexual Offences Act being passed in England and Wales—a law partially decriminalising homosexuality. This was a monumental landmark in the movement for equality which has sparked the unveiling of exhibitions on the subject in numerous galleries and museums across the country. Similarly, various films and short documentaries are being released to comment on and celebrate the topic— one example being the BBC’s film drama Against the Law, which is due to air in July. Daniel Mays plays Peter Wildeblood, the first man in the U.K. to publicly declare his homosexuality and who, as a result, was convicted of conspiracy to incite homosexual offences. The central beacon amongst the plethora of events that are taking place to commemorate this milestone is the Desire, Love, Identity: Exploring LGBTQ Histories exhibition at The British Museum. From May to October 2017, The British Museum is opening its doors to a wealth of art, objects

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and artefacts from ancient civilisations to the present day—all celebrating LGBTQ (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender and queer) histories. The British Museum has long-standing relationships with several LGBTQ charities and organisations, therefore representatives from some of these organisations have helped to shape the exhibit. The museum’s display is inspired by the 2013 publication by Richard Parkinson—a former curator of the museum’s Egyptian department—A Little Gay History. The ideologies of same-sex desire, love, lust and passion along with the struggles of identity are all themes that have echoed across time and throughout various cultures around the world—this is perhaps why the messages disseminated within the event are so poignant. The progressions of attitude on the subject are represented in the various sculptures, badges, coins and prints that are scattered throughout the exhibit. The display guides visitors on a journey through trauma and repression, whilst simultaneously echoing strong themes of resilience and courage.

Above: Otsuka Takashi, Drag Queen Deck (Japan, 1997). This pack of cards uses photographs of drag queens from across Japan. The Trustees of The British Museum.

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Above [l-r]: Amnesty International “Love is Human Right” badge, 2016. Silver medallion with the bust of Hadrian, (r.117-38 AD). Minted in Rome, 119-122 AD. Left: Paul Tanqueray (1905-1991) Douglas Byng, 1934 Vintage bromide print 239 x 193 mm National Portrait Gallery.

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Images: © trustees of the brItIsh museum; estate of paul tanqueray

COLLECTIONS // arT

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aRT // COLLECTIONS

Stuart Frost, co-curator of the museum and head of interpretation, ensures that each section of the exhibition sets out to challenge our perceptions of human relationships throughout history. A number of pieces that already existed within the museum are now the central focus of evaluation, highlighting the lesbian and gay histories behind them that were once overlooked. Amongst the wealth of artefacts are some particularly significant silver medallions that demonstrate the relationship between Hadrian, who was a Roman emperor between 117-138 AD, and Antinous. Although Hadrian certainly wasn’t the only emperor to take part in homosexual relations, what is most notable about his relationship is the extreme grief he experienced when Antinous died. There is a cloud of mystery surrounding the life of Antinous and how he came into such high favour with the emperor. What is known is that he met his demise during a lion hunt in Libya in 130 AD, which led to him drowning in the Nile. In memory of his love, Hadrian erected the city of Antinopolis in Egypt and oversaw the production of coins with the head of Antinous to honour him. Close by to the exhibit are busts of Hadrian and Antinous, forever preserved side by side in the museum’s permanent collection. The retrospective continues with other examples of how diversity, fluid concepts of gender and same-sex relationships have filled and shaped our past. Although some evidence has been obscured by censorship, under closer inspection various pieces have a surprising story to tell. One of the more obvious examples is presented in the Warren Cup, a silver Roman drinking vessel that contains two explicit sex scenes; the first between two young boys and the other between a young boy and an older, bearded man. More recent artefacts displayed in the museum shed light on the experience of the LGBTQ community leading up to the present day. This includes an assortment of 13,000 badges, whose origins span from over 50 countries, 400 of which directly relate to LGBTQ history. The first of these modernday button badges arrived in the museum in 1906 with medals supporting the British forces. A number of new movements and protests gave badges a new purpose in the 60s and 70s. Cheap to manufacture, these objects were ideal for producing in large quantities to spread a message. Amongst

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other relevant protests focusing on peace and apartheid, gay rights were also at the forefront of debates. During the 70s The British Museum proactively encouraged the donation of any buttons and badges on these topics. Surprisingly, 258 badges were delivered to the museum as a gift from a single collector in 1978. Slogans such as ‘How dare you presume I’m heterosexual’ and ‘Lesbians ignite’ are emblazoned on the Gay Liberation Front badges, for purposes of protest and pride. Similarly, other insignias take their place in the collection—some even pointing out the desperate plea for improved education on gay sexual health. A series of badges with the phrase: ‘Finance AIDS research’ were released in 1985. These small buttons act as a mirror of the times they were produced in, and are an echo of the struggles individuals faced against adversity. While they symbolise hardship, they also represent the astonishing will of spirit that eventually led to the transformation of social attitudes and legal

Below: Bhupen Khakhar (1934-2003) In the River Jamuna, 1993. Print Reproduced by permission of the estate of the artist.

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COLLECTIONS // arT

rulings. Like the ancient antiquities that are scattered throughout the exhibit, these small tokens have as much a story to tell as any of the impressive sculptures or detailed murals. Joining The British Museum in its celebration is Tate Britain with its art exhibition, Queer British Art 1861-1967. In its first exhibition dedicated to this topic, the museum depicts deeply personal expressions of art alongside pieces intended for the wider public. The art display seeks to represent relationships from multiple perspectives; from everyday depictions of gay relations to erotic sexual encounters. Some pieces seek to provoke a political response whilst others try to encourage a smile upon the face of the onlooker. Tate Britain’s arrangement will be host to paintings, etchings, photographs and short films from artists such as Dora Carrington, David Hockney, Francis Bacon, John Singer, Joe Orton and Kenneth Halliwell. The collection branches over eight rooms, guiding visitors through a transition of ideals and mediums as they come into play in each period. From representations of ambiguous homosexuality to later, more explicit, depictions seen within the work of David Hockney and Francis Bacon—the experiences of individuals are inspected from every figurative and literal angle. Highlights of the collection include Simeon Solomon’s Sappho and Erinna in a Garden at Mytilene (1864). The painting is an emotional depiction of female love, inspired by Sappho’s poems written in the 4th century pleading with Aphrodite for her help with a same-sex relationship. In fact the term ‘lesbian’ was coined from the name of Sappho’s home, the Greek island of Lesbos. It is said that Solomon’s open homosexuality steered his decision to paint Sappho, who represented the repression of sexuality. Another key example of art encouraging speculation is Henry Scott Tuke’s The Critics (1927), a famous portrayal of two boys sunbathing by the Cornish coast; a piece that would later put the artist on the map. The painting reveals two undressed males gesturing to a third party who is obscured by the sea. We take the position of the voyeur as the painting captures the men from behind, blissfully unaware of their archetypal allure as they lie stretched in a Grecian stance. While the

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piece has a number of homoerotic ties, it can equally be seen as a normalisation of homosexual interaction. The exhibition also includes portraits of heroes that provided hope for future activists and contributed to eventual changes in the law along the way. Amidst the various paintings is a full-length portrait of Oscar Wilde—which will be appearing in the U.K. for the first time. Depictions of the activist Edward Carpenter, who lived openly with his lover, and the labourer George Miller will also be appearing. Rather than describing the display as a definitive collection of queer British artworks, Tate Britain instead hopes ‘that this exhibition will be part of a bigger conversation that will encourage more material, more stories and more lives to be discovered’. Each of the upcoming events across the country have been created with the intention of breaking down old-fashioned outlooks and embracing progressive attitudes. Whilst every showcase should be commended for its important objectives, each presents a stark reminder of what LGBTQ individuals have had to overcome and how these advances should be safeguarded. •

Below: Solomon, Simeon (1840-1905) Sappho and Erinna in a Garden at Mytilene, 1864 Watercolour on paper 330 x 381 mm Tate. Purchased 1980.

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Life Style Art

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ColleCtions // Fine Wine

Wine Mine Join Arts & Collections International in raising a glass to some of the finest wine regions to visit in the world By Kayley Loveridge

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Bordeaux, France Bordeaux is the largest wine region in France, boasting some of the finest—and most expensive—wines from its numerous appellations. Bordeaux is known for its sophisticated blend of six main varieties of grape; a blend of three red: merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, and three white: sémillon, sauvignon blanc and muscadelle. While flavours vary, specialists agree that Bordeaux red wines are exceptionally silky, rich and earthy in

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ine tourism is a growing global industry involved in the tasting, consumption and the buying of wines from lucrative vineyards around the world; a trend intimately linked to the historic and cultural identity of a region. These excursions are for neophytes as much as they are for the primed connoisseur—discover wines from worthy producers as you visit the cellars responsible for the bottles in every serious investor’s prized collections.

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Fine Wine // ColleCtions

taste, whilst white wines develop citrus and honey flavours as they age.

Tuscany, ITaly Known for its rolling hills and romantic landscape, Tuscany, the most famous wine region in Italy, is a stunning favourite among wine tourists. Tuscany’s climate means that it has some of the most divine grape varieties—including the Sangiovese grape—in the world. While many sub regions, known as ‘denominations’, specialise in red wines using the same grape variety, each denomination is so wildly different in its wine-making techniques that no Tuscan wine tastes the same. The majority of wines here carry DOC/DOCG status which upholds their authenticity and quality to a high standard. The most popular wine from this region, Chianti, is responsible for over half of all wine produced in Tuscany.

Mendoza, argenTIna Argentina’s vastly different climates help to grow some of the most diverse grape varieties worldwide, making Argentine wines some of the most sought after in auction houses and dinner tables alike. Tucked up against the Andes, Mendoza, the first region in Argentina to produce wine, is an oasis for wine lovers. According to sedimentality.com, ‘Jesuit missionaries planted grape vines and established commercial vineyards by 1569’. The Mendoza region is responsible for 70 percent of Argentina’s wine production industry today; its main grape varieties are Malbec and chardonnay.

england, unITed KIngdoM The queen uncorked a 2009 vintage brut from East Sussex’s family-owned Ridgeview’s Grosvenor blanc de blanc at the state dinner for Chinese President Xi Jinping in 2015. A hidden secret in the world’s wine bunker, England is most commonly revered for its sparkling varieties. England is home to some 500 vineyards and while yields are currently small, the country is expected to produce a staggering 12 million bottles by 2020. For verdant views and a quaint country living experience, a tour around England’s wine belt should include trips to Kent, Sussex and Cornwall. 

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auction highlights // news

Auction

Highlights The record-breaking, the eclectic and the unique; we bring you the latest from the world’s most renowned auction houses By Annalisa D’Alessio

A SpArkling World record

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IMAGES: © SothEby’S

A recent Sotheby’s auction of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels in Geneva saw a pair of diamond earrings break an impressive world record. The earrings, which are almost 16 carats each, have sold for $57.4 million. In addition to being different colours—one is Fancy Vivid Blue and the other is Fancy Intense Pink—the diamonds also differed in price. The blue diamond, which has now been renamed ‘The Memory of Autumn Leaves’ by its anonymous buyer and is the rarest of the two, sold for an impressive $42.1 million alone. ‘The Dream of Autumn Leaves’, on the other hand, sold for around $15.3 million. Speaking after the sale, David Bennett, worldwide chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division and chairman of Switzerland said he was ‘delighted that the stones will remain together as earrings.’ Previously, the world record for the most valuable earrings was held by Miroir de l’Amour—the diamonds fetched $17.6 million at Christie’s Geneva in November 2016. 

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news // auction highlights

MAcAllAn WhiskEy The Macallan Lalique Legacy Collection, which boasts several bottles of whiskey aged from 50 to 60 years in crystal decanters, has sold for close to $1 million (HK $ 7.7 million) at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong. The sale dramatically surpassed its estimate—it was expected to fetch between $250,000 to $500,000. Each of the single malts represent one of the Macallan Six Pillars—ageing in exceptional oak casks, employing small stills and using only the finest cuts—that elevate and distinguish the brand’s whiskeys. In addition to the six decanters, the lot also included six miniature bottles from the Macallan’s Fine and Rare series, six pairs of Lalique whiskey glasses and autographs from Macallan’s master blenders. All of this was housed in an exquisite cabinet, crafted by Lalique from ebony wood. 

EruditE Art

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Muletero, one of Miquel Barceló’s most famous bullfight depictions painted in 1990, sold for just shy of £3 million at Phillips in London as part of the auction house’s 20th Century & Contemporary Art Evening Sale. The canvas, which is signed and dated with the artist’s initials, is heaped with incident, impasto and mixed media, plunging the viewer straight into the midst of the arena. The focus of this work of art lies upon the figure of the torero, the charging bull and the red flash of the muleta—the red cape used to attract the bull during a corrida. Many of Barceló’s works during the 80s were perfect examples of western artistic culture. In 1988 the artist travelled to Africa where a new luminosity came to dominate his paintings, leading him to flush out the superficial—a transformation that is evident in Muletero. 

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auction highlights // news

Political PoP art

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IMAGES © SothEby’S

A new auction record for any western contemporary art sold in Asia was recently set by one of Andy Warhol’s famously vibrant depictions. Mao, one of the most influential and enduring of Warhol’s images, sold for HK $98.5 million (U.S. $12.6 million) at Sotheby’s Hong Kong. This work of art is now the third-highest price paid for contemporary art sold at the renowned auction house so far this year. Warhol started producing a series of portraits of Mao Zedong—the founding father of the People’s Republic of China—after President Nixon’s announcement of his visit to China. Many of these pictures are now housed in the world’s most prestigious art institutions and private collections across the globe. These depictions were first exhibited at the Musée Galliera in Paris in 1974—a show considered to be one of the most significant in the pop artist’s career. 

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news // auction highlights

A Green, Green GArden Bauerngarten (1907), a stunning Gustav Klimt painting depicting a colourful flower garden, has taken the crown for the third most expensive artwork ever sold in Europe—it fetched over a staggering £47 million at a recent auction by Sotheby’s in London. The piece comes after Alberto Giacometti’s Walking Man (£65 million in 2010) and Peter Paul Rubens’ The Massacre of the Innocents (£49.5 million in 2002) in the list of the priciest sales in Europe. The painting dates back to the Austrian artist’s golden period—around the same time as his iconic Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer I (1907). It is the first time this work of art has come to auction for more than 20 years. 

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auction highlights // news

The Pink STar Sotheby’s Hong Kong recently set a new world auction record for any diamond or jewel after it sold the now famous Pink Star diamond to a famous jeweller. The pink 59.60-carat oval mixed-cut diamond fetched a staggering HK$533 million—around $71.2 U.S. million. The precious gem has received the highest colour and clarity grades from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) for pink diamonds. It was also reported that the diamond is part of the Type IIa group—stones in this group (which comprises less than two percent of gem diamonds) are chemically the purest of all diamond crystals. Mined by the worldfamous DeBeers in Africa, the diamond was cut and polished over a period of two years and transformed into this extraordinary gemstone. 

an unTiTled maSTerPiece

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IMAGES: © SothEby’S

A new auction record was set at Sotheby’s New York this month for a masterpiece from 1982—sold for a staggering $110,487,500. Untitled by 21-year-old American artist Jean-Michel Basquiat is a vibrantly expressive piece. It involves graffiti-esque scrawls of black, forged from oil stick and spray paint; a technique now synonymous with the artist’s style. The integration of different mediums gives the piece an added appearance of depth and texture. The canvas was bought by Japanese billionaire Yosaku Maezawa, who acquired it in a 10 minute bidding war. Maezawa plans to house it in an open exhibition in his small hometown of Chiba, Japan. 

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news // auction highlights

Treasures Our series highlights a single item of artistry or craftsmanship that is both rare and exquisite

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nown as England’s most prominent cartographer and historian of his time, John Speed’s legacy has been long-reaching—his works became the basis of world maps until the mid-18th century and were a major contribution to British topography. His A New and Accurat Map of the World [Drawne according to ye truest Descriptions lastest Discoveries & best observations yt have been made by English of Strangers], which was first produced in 1651, is possibly one of the earliest attainable maps printed in English. Depicting a double hemisphere—surrounded by smaller celestial hemispheres and phenomena, representations of water, earth, wind and fire and featuring smaller portraits of early explorers—the map shows California as an Island, conjectural Magellanica, The Southerne Unknowne Land in extraordinary detail as well as notes on the North and South Pole. The map—along with similar artifacts—was recently offered at auction by Sotheby’s in London. •

Art of the IslAmIc World

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A voided silk velvet and metal-thread Ottoman textile panel (çatma) dating back to the 16th-17th century with a Cintamani and tiger-striped design sold for close to £1.1 million at a recent Sotheby’s auction in London. The textile, which was initially estimated to fetch around £200,000 to £300,000, was offered as part of the auction house’s Orientalist and Middle Eastern Art Week—a group of three sales completely dedicated to works of art produced across the Islamic world from ancient to modern times. Unseen for almost decades, these exceptional Ottoman textiles—belonging to the collection of Argine Benaki-Salvago—sparked fierce competition. 

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collections // art

Faces of a Nation

Images: © DaCs 2017. mUseO THYsseN-BORNemIsZa, maDRID

An upcoming exhibition at Tate Liverpool charts how two artists responded to the glamour and misery of Weimar Germany By Hannah Guinness

Above: Otto Dix (1891-1969) Hugo Erfurth with Dog, 1926 Tempera and oil paint on panel 800 x 1000 mm Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid.

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Images: © DaCs 2017. ColleCtIon of the herbert f. Johnson museum of art, Cornell unIversIty. gIft of samuel a. berger; 55.031

art // collections

T

he Germany that emerged from the chaos and destruction of World War I was, in many ways, a broken one. The punitive reparations dictated by the Treaty of Versailles and crippling hyperinflation between 1921 and 1924 had a ruinous effect on the German economy. The streets were filled with impoverished—often badly wounded—veterans, many of whom formed private right wing militias. Underpinning all of this was a corrosive bitterness over how the war had ended for Germany—with accusations from many, including Adolf Hitler, that Germany had been ‘betrayed’ into surrender—a discontent that would later fuel the rise of National Socialism. Yet the Weimar period, spanning 1919 to 1933, was also a period of extraordinary cultural and social change. Democracy was introduced to Germany

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and, for the first time, new artistic movements flourished—from Bauhaus and Constructivism to New Objectivity, with literature, film, art, theatre and music thriving. This was accompanied by a loosening of social mores— homosexuality became more widely accepted and female emancipation increased—while the many clubs, cabarets and salons of cosmopolitan cities such as Berlin swiftly earned a reputation for seedy decadence. This resulted in a Germany that in many ways was deeply polarised politically, intellectually and culturally—a dissonance Tate Liverpool will explore in an exhibition that shows how two different German artists sought to portray the glamour and the misery of Weimar Germany. Portraying a Nation: Germany 19191933 focuses on the work of painter

Above: Otto Dix Reclining Woman on a Leopard Skin, 1927 Oil paint on panel 680 x 980 mm.

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collections // art

Images: © dIe photographIsche sammlung/sk stIftung kultur-august sander archIv, cologne; dacs, london, 2017

Otto Dix (1891-1969) and photographer August Sander (1876-1964), two artists who chronicled the differing extremes of German society. The show will feature more than 300 pieces—including photographs, prints, drawings and paintings—divided into two complementary exhibitions. Otto Dix : The Evil Eye will focus on the artist’s portrayals of World War I and German society, looking specifically at how Dix’s work evolved between 1922 and 1925 when he was living in Düsseldorf. As one of the leading proponents of the New Objectivity movement—which advocated an unsentimental and unvarnished representation of reality—Dix produced stark, often caustic portraits of German society that laid bare its contradictions and inequalities. Notable examples that will be seen at the exhibition include Hugo Erfurth with Dog (1926) and Self-Portrait with Easel (1926). The profound effect that World War I had on Dix, a veteran, will be seen in works such as The War (1924)—a series of 50 etchings inspired by his experience fighting as a soldier. August Sander’s life work was a series of 600 images he titled People of the Twentieth Century. This ambitious photographic project featured portraits from across the diverse spectrum of German society, including artists, musicians, farmers, circus workers and— later on in the project—Nazi officers. Some 140 images—like National Socialist, Head of Department of Culture and The Painter Otto Dix and his Wife Martha—will be displayed in ARTIST ROOMS: August Sander, offering viewers a fascinating snapshot of Weimar Germany. 

» Portraying a Nation: Germany 1919-1933 will run from 23 June to 15 October 2017 at Tate Liverpool. For more information, visit tate.org.uk/visit/tate-liverpool.

Above: August Sander (1876-1964) Secretary at West German Radio in Cologne 1931, printed 1992 Photograph, gelatin silver print on paper 260 x 149 mm ARTIST ROOMS Tate and National Galleries of Scotland. Lent by Anthony d’Offay 2010.

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art // collections

Images: © dacs 2017. leopold-hoesch-museum & papIersmuseum düren. photo: peter hInschläger

Above [l-r]: August Sander National Socialist, Head of Department of Culture c.1938, printed 1990 Photograph, gelatin silver print on paper 260 x 192 mm ARTIST ROOMS Tate and National Galleries of Scotland. Lent by Anthony d’Offay 2010.

Otto Dix Self-Portrait with Easel, 1926 800 x 550 mm Leopold-Hoesch-Museum & Papiermuseum, Düren.

August Sander The Painter Otto Dix and his Wife Martha 1925-6, printed 1991 Photograph, gelatin silver print on paper 205 x 241 mm ARTIST ROOMS Tate and National Galleries of Scotland. Lent by Anthony d’Offay 2010.

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22/05/2017 12:55


Investment // Culture

Chinese Art:

A Worthwhile Investment Record-breaking auction sales of Chinese artefacts prove that the Chinese art market is flourishing. We look at where to begin when investing By Kayley Loveridge

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propped the platform in which artists vested in the sophisticated traditions so prevalent in Chinese art and culture today. Ma Yuan of the Song Dynasty (1160-1225), Shen Zhou of the Ming Dynasty (1427-1509), Shitao (1642-1707) of the Qing Dynasty and more recently, Zhang Daqian (1899-1983) are among just some of the important Chinese artists who would go on to shape an entire culture. ‘From about the 11th to the 20th century, Chinese paintings were by and large dominated by two trends: skilfully rendered, often decorative paintings by professional artists responding to demands of patrons and more expressionistic painting and calligraphy created—at least ideally—out of personal creativity by highly educated amateur artists,’ says Elizabeth Hammer, senior specialist in Chinese Paintings at Christie’s. Chinese art would be largely bought and enjoyed in China until the 20th century when political and social upheaval saw much of the

Above: Chen Rong, Six Dragons (c.13th century) Handscroll, ink on paper 34.3 x 440.4 cm Estimate: $1,200,000-$1,800,000 Price realised: $48,967,500. Facing page [above]: Bronze Ritual Wine Vessel Fangzun (c.13th-11th century BC) 52.4 cm (high) Estimate: $6,000,000-$8,000,000 Price realised: $37,207,500. Facing page [below]: Han Gan, Horse (c.706-783) Handscroll, ink and colour on silk 31.9 x 38.4 cm Estimate: $500,000-$700,000 Price realised: $17,047,500.

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his March, the Asian Art Week auction by Christie’s in New York secured the highest total ever for an auction series, fetching a grand total of $332,783,188. This staggering historic achievement emphasizes the depth of the ancient Chinese art market across all categories including painting, calligraphy and ceramics. A Fangzun late Shang Dynasty (13th-11th century BC) bronze ritual wine vessel sold for $37,207,500 while Chen Rong’s Six Dragons (c. 1244) sold for $48,967,500—$47,167,500 above its highest original estimate. ‘Provenance continues to play an important role in the desirability of a particular object,’ says Margaret Gristina, senior specialist in Chinese Works of Art at Christie’s. ‘A long, documented history adds to the prestige and gives collectors bidding confidence.’ A beguiling past of ancient civilizations and dynasty-rule in China throughout the ages

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Culture // Investment

important collections leave the country. They were then established in private collections and public institutions internationally until around the year 2000 when art buyers from mainland China began participating in the art market. These investments in large quantities of ancient Chinese works has seen the Chinese art market soar in recent times. Investing in Chinese art can indeed be a lucrative venture. According to Hammer, ‘the Chinese traditional paintings market overall has been on a fairly even plateau for the last several years, in that good paintings/ calligraphy consistently sell for good prices.’

‘It is most important to buy art that the individual enjoys’— Elizabeth Hammer, Senior Specialist, Chinese Paintings at Christie’s

Images: © chrIstIe’s

Gristina adds, ‘we predict there will always be a strong demand for great Chinese works of art.’ The fascination in ancient Chinese art comes from its ‘extensive and broad appeal,’ she says. ‘For example, Chinese ceramics are universally admired and have appealed to collectors worldwide, bridging tastes and styles.’ Hammer hastens to warn, however, that the sheer volume of novice participants in the market—including auction houses, dealers and collectors—and the various regulations and procedures that need to be followed creates an ongoing air of turbulence in the Chinese art market. Investors who have the wealth to amass such rare artefacts should commit to a collecting category such as paintings, calligraphy, ceramics or furniture. Huanghuali furniture, advises Gristina, and high-quality archaic bronzes are in high demand at the moment. Hammer cautions that those looking to profit from investing in Chinese art must do their research first. ‘Because of the problems of authenticity,’ she says, ‘this field requires a rather long time and much experience to develop reliable connoisseurship abilities. Therefore, new buyers usually need time to learn to collect intelligently.’ •

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culture // art investment

Safeguarding the Arts Arts & Collections International speaks to Bank of America Merrill Lynch’s Rena DeSisto about the corporation’s Art Conservation Project

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instance, if we haven’t funded anything Above: The British Museum in London, England, is one of the many institutions that have benefited in Germany in several years, we might from the Bank of America Merrill Lynch Art actually reach out and call some institutions Conservation Project. ourselves. Over time the availability of this funding has become known, but it’s not ‘We remain strong advocates for art as broadly published as we would like, conservation because we believe in the so a call to action power of art to connect people across generates more submissions.’ communities, cultures and countries’ In a handful of —Rena DeSisto, global arts and culture cases, restoration of these precious executive at Bank of America Merrill Lynch

images 123RF

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ince 2010, the Bank of America Merrill Lynch Art Conservation Project has been providing grants to not-for-profit museums around the globe to conserve historically or culturally significant works of art in danger of deterioration. To this day, the company has completed 100 of such projects in 29 different countries spanning six of the seven continents. Last year, Bank of America awarded grants for the restoration of 21 iconic works of art—such as Thomas Gainsborough’s The Blue Boy (1770)—548 artefacts from the Roman and Byzantine periods (c. 4th-5th century) and around 100 textiles and related objects from the Michael C. Carlos Museum in Atlanta, Georgia. Rena DeSisto, global arts and culture executive at Bank of America Merrill Lynch, says the selection process for these grants isn’t easy: ‘The process stipulates that the work has to be important to the history of art, important to the collection of the institution and important to the culture—the online application asks those questions, so that’s a filter for pieces that would fit our criteria. Each year, we are impressed with the quality of the grant applications we receive. ‘Within that process I would describe it as more of an art than a science,’ she adds, ‘We look at geographical balance, we look at cultural balance—works coming from different cultures—we look for a balance of what type of media it is, what period of time it’s from. One decision affects another, that’s how we do it. For

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ART INVESTMENT // culture

works of art even led to unexpected discoveries. ‘This only happens 15 to 20 percent of the time,’ DeSisto explains, ‘They find something new that they didn’t know before. We did a Picasso—Woman Ironing—and that unveiled an entirely new and different under painting which was revealing. Of course, there remains the mystery of exactly who this is a picture of.’

‘Over time the availability of this funding has become known, but it’s not as broadly published as we would like’ —DeSisto

Above: The Blue Boy (1770), a notable work by Thomas Gainsborough, was recently restored thanks to the Art Conservation Project.

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The Art Conservation Project has been described as a ‘key’ element of Bank of America’s art philanthropy programme. According to DeSisto, this is because the conservation of art has been taking increasing portions of museum’s budgets: ‘Most of them will tell you that sometimes they have to forgo conservation. We like the fact that [this project] is a gateway to sharing the works more broadly.’ Arts institutions and non-profit institutions alike are vital generators of economic activity wherever they’re located. They employ people, have the power to augment education programmes in schools and create reasons for tourists to visit certain places. To DeSisto, this project is Bank of America Merrill Lynch’s ‘way of saying that we are committed to the health of these communities’. ‘We have remained steadfast with funding—through the financial crisis and up to now—and we intend to continue to do so. I would like people to know that our programme is an equal opportunity funder, and by that I mean it’s both for the visual and the performing arts,’ she adds, ‘It’s not about trying to build our brand—it’s really about supporting non-profit organisations and being part of a responsible corporate citizen.’ •

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Converted from a Gustav Eiffel Printing House in the heart of Paris, the Loftfactory offers 310m2 of stylish, contemporary living space, a warm atmosphere and modern facilities for professional or residential use. Designed for comfort and privacy, the Loftfactory is situated in its own landscaped courtyard, in a haven of calm. A few steps away are a plethora of restaurants, Cafes, and designer boutiques. The Loftfactory has its own concierge service and accommodates up to 8 overnight guests, as well as hosting up to 90 people for events such as showrooms, seminars or cocktail parties. You can discover more about this unique place at:

www.loftfactory.net

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Art // Tourism

Discovering

Europe

From Rome and Florence to London and Paris, Europe boasts a great variety of artistic and cultural treasures By Annalisa D’Alessio

Paris, France When one thinks of art and culture in the French capital, the Louvre, Notre Dame Cathedral, Eiffel Tower, Musée d’Orsay and Centre Pompidou are just a small handful of the well-known destinations that come to mind. A trip to the Champs-Élysées—one of the most famous streets in the world—is a must for any visitor. The avenue, which runs between Place de la Concorde and Place Charles de Gaulle—where the Arc de Triomphe is located—is full of theatres, cafés and luxury stores. For those wanting to revisit history, the stunning Palace of Versailles is a symbol of the absolute monarchy of the Ancien Régime. First built in 1623 by Louis XIII and later extended by Louis XIV, the palace has long been a popular attraction due the grand scale of the building itself, the museum inside—which displays sculptures, paintings and engravings—and its spectacular gardens. • Above: The Louvre’s iconic glass pyramid and Passage Richelieu in Paris, France. Left: A view of the Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe at night.

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An elegant, early 20th-century villa owned by an Italian aristocratic family, Romeís Villa Spalletti Trivelli is an opulent and intimate hideaway just steps from the iconic Trevi Fountain. Two plush garden suites are located in the building across from Villa Spalletti Trivelli, connected via the villa’s garden. Each features a double bedroom, two immaculate bathrooms, a spacious sitting room with sofa bed, kitchen and a pretty private terrace. The boutique hotel still retains the privileged ambiance of the aristocratic private home it originally was, and offers guests a relaxed air of discretion and personal touches throughout. The familyís collection of antiques, original works of art and Flemish tapestries decorate the stunning interior, and during the warm summer months the gardens provide a tranquil respite from the hustle and bustle of Rome. Read a book in the magnificent wood-paneled library, enjoy a stroll along the nearby streets of Via del Corso and Via Condotti, indulge with a spa treatment in the hotelís wellness centre or a visit to the hammam, before relaxing in the sumptuous drawing room with a drink from the complimentary honesty bar. Enjoy the stunning new Rooftop Garden complete with comfortable shaded sofas and sun loungers. The rooftop bar and bubbling Jacuzzis offer tranquil areas to relax and enjoy the breathtaking views across the roofs of the Eternal City. Hotel guests can also enjoy day trips to the Spalletti winery in Umbria, as well as organic olive oil and wine made by the family on their Umbrian estate.

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Art // Tourism

IMAGES © 123RF

Rome, Italy Best known for its iconic ruins, famous buildings and architecture, Italy’s capital is full of cultural, artistic and religious hotspots. The Vatican City, an independent city-state within Rome itself, is definitely worth exploring. Book a visit to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel, where visitors will be able to see Michelangelo’s fresco— The Last Judgement (c.1535-1541). Tourists will also be able to wander through the Basilica and climb to the top of its dome for a stunning view over the city. For a journey through time, Via dei Fori Imperiali—located at the heart of the city and running from Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum and the Arch of Constantine—offers a stunning view of the Forums of Trajan, Nerva and Augustus. A great deal of excavations in this area have unearthed priceless relics dating back to the Roman Empire. Art fanatics will want to visit establishments such as the Musei Capitolini, Galleria Borghese, MAXXI and Galleria Nazionale D’Arte Antica to admire ancient Roman statues, sculptures by Bernini and paintings by Caravaggio. •

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Above: A panoramic view over Rome from the top of St Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican City.

Above [right]: The colosseum, Rome’s ancient oval amphitheatre, was built between 70-80 AD.

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Tourism // Art

London, EngLand Home to the most famous royal family in the world, London possesses an extremely diverse arts and culture scene. From the wacky buildings and colourful markets in Camden to bustling Southbank, this cosmopolitan destination offers attractions suited to everyone’s interests. The Royal Academy of Arts, The British Museum and The National Gallery are all unmissable destinations displaying works of art from legends such as Da Vinci and the biggest collection of Egyptian art outside of Egypt. As for cultural destinations, visit Buckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus, Hyde Park and world-renowned Oxford Street to see some of the world’s most-photographed surroundings and indulge in some luxury travel, shopping and sightseeing. • Above: The National Gallery, an art museum in Trafalgar Square in London’s City of Westminster borough. Right: A view of Piccadilly Circus and Regent Street, a major shopping destination in London’s West End.

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indulge in the finer things Visit themasterchefs.com for the ultimate guide to fine wines, gourmet food and much more

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Art // Tourism

Florence, Italy In this city, all of the major art and culture attractions are within walking distance, making it a perfect destination for those who love exploring on foot. The Duomo— the cathedral best known for Brunelleschi’s 15th century terracotta-tiled dome—is perhaps its most recognisable symbol. Other highlights are the intricately opulent mosaic-covered ceiling in the Baptistery and Giotto’s bell tower. Visitors wishing to see Michelangelo’s David (c.1501-1504) and Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus (c.mid1480s) will have to queue up at the worldfamous Uffizi Gallery housed in the Medici Whitehall, a prominent museum next to the Piazza Della Signoria—which holds some of the most precious examples of works dating back to the Renaissance period. Lovers of iconic, well-known locations will want to visit the city’s hub, Ponte Vecchio— the oldest bridge across the river Arno— which is speckled with shops and offers one of the most breathtaking views of the city. Landmark buildings such as the Palazzo Tornabuoni and Palazzo Medici are excellent historic examples of the heavy artistic influence the Renaissance had on the Tuscan capital and its famous architects. •

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Below [l-r]: The Uffizi Gallery in Florence is home to Michelangelo’s David and Botticelli’s The Birth Of Venus. A view of Florence, the Duomo and its famous 15th century terracotta-tiled dome designed by Brunelleschi.

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Your private retreat IN THE HEART OF THE VENETIAN LAGOON Discover true calm and tranquillity on San Clemente Island, your private retreat just minutes away from St. Mark’s Square by boat. Lush gardens, antique courtyards and the historical church of San Clemente: the former monastery takes guests on a journey in time. Experience the ultimate comfort in the elgant guestrooms and suites, while enjoying breathtaking views of the lagoon the island’s centuries-old park. Take time to recharge your body and soul in the resort’s spa, your sanctuary of pure bliss, and tantalise all your senses at the signature restaurant Acquerello, the true expression of Italian culinary excellence. Relax and unwind in luxury at San Clemente Palace Kempinski,

Your resort in Venice Isola di San Clemente 1 San Marco, 30124 Venice Italy T +39 041 4750 111 reservation.sanclementepalace@kempinski.com

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kempinski.com/venice

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Art // Tourism

Venice, italy Venice, the capital of the Italian region of Veneto, is much more than just a collection of romantic canals lined with Gothic and Renaissance buildings. The magnificent St Mark’s Square is a marvel in itself— here you will find three of the city’s most important tourist attractions. St Mark’s Basilica, a magnificent example of Byzantine architecture, Doge’s Palace, where the city held its political and judicial headquarters and the famous Clock Tower, which was built between 1496 and 1506. Some of the most prominent artists of the Renaissance period have left their mark in this city: Titian’s Assumption (c.1515-1518) can be seen above the altar at the Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, Tintoretto’s Crucifixion (1565) at the Scuola Grande di San Rocco and Tiepolo’s Strength and Peace and Triumph of Faith (c.1745-1755) at Santa Maria della Pietà. Explore the contemporary art scene by visiting the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and take in the great beauty of the city with a trip down the Grand Canal. Spanning the Canal, you’ll see the Rialto Bridge, one of the city’s most recognised structures and also the oldest of the bridges crossing the narrow waterway. •

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Below [l-r]: The Rialto Bridge in Venice, Italy, the most famous of the four bridges on the Grand Canal.

St Mark’s Square is the principal public square of Venice. Napoleon allegedly called it ‘the drawing room of Europe’.

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Tourism // Art

Prague, CzeCh rePubliC Considered one of the most popular cultural destinations in Europe, Prague offers a stunning city centre, a centuries-long history, palaces, churches and fascinating examples of Gothic, Romanesque, Renaissance, Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture. Visit Powder Tower—one of the original gates into the old town first built in the 11th century— and climb its 186 spiraled steps to get a breathtaking view of Old Town Prague. In the Old Town Square you’ll be able to visit Tyn Church, a beautiful example of Gothic influence on the city’s diverse architecture scene. The church, which boasts two 80-metre tall towers, was built for foreign merchants coming to Tyn courtyard for trade. For a shopper’s paradise, make sure to leave enough time to explore Wencelas Square, the city’s true entertainment, nightlife and commercial district. Much of the Czech city’s political gatherings took place here, and today it is the home of the grand National Museum—exhibiting almost 14 million items spanning natural history, art and music—and the Prague State Opera. After a mere fiveminute walk from Wencelas Square, you’ll find yourself near the historic Old Town Square. Here, the undisputed cultural highlight, is the Astronomical Clock; an ancient ‘orloj’ that tells Old Bohemian, Babylonian, German and sidereal time as well as the sun’s position on the zodiac and phases of the moon. •

Above: The medieval Astronomical Clock in Prague was first installed in 1410, making it the thirdoldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest one still operating. Right: A view of the Tyn Church, which has been the main church in Old Town Prague since the 14th century.

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www.chateauheralec.com

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One ot the TOP 10 castle hotels of the world

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COLLECTIONS // TRAVEL

The World of

Superyachts The Monaco Yacht Show returns from 27 to 30 September, offering the latest in luxury cutting-edge design By Tom Allaway

Above: Each year, the Monaco Yacht Show curates the exhibition of over 125 extraordinary one-off superyachts built by the world’s most respected shipyards and welcomes over 590 leading companies from the yachting industry.

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TRAVEL // COLLECTIONS

IMAGES: © MonAco yAcht Show; Mc clIck; toMvAno

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he Monaco Yacht Show has been a primary event in the world of luxury yachts in the port of Hercules since 1991, and this year promises to be no exception. From 27 to 30 September, Monaco will unveil and showcase over 40 new yacht launches for visitors to enjoy. Alongside an impressive display of 125 superyachts, the show will have a tailored variety of other features on show for the reputable guests, including 580 exhibitors hailing from 38 countries. Take advantage of opportunities to visit workshops for informative discussions on crew and yacht management, refit and insurance and berthing considerations. There is also the chance—during chartering workshops—to take a detailed look at the benefits of hiring a yacht for

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a new experience—or indeed—before deciding to invest in a vessel. The show encourages both amateur enthusiasts and seasoned industry figures around the world to visit and experience the latest trends in technological advancements and the newest gadgets and accessories in the world of yachting. Last year alone, the event had 34,000 visitors; a number expected to rise again this year. The influences that this event embodies come from the potent purchasing power of its wealthy clientele. The venue will offer the exclusive C&C Lounge, which is the designated official lounge of the superyacht Captains & Crews. The Upper Deck Lounge will offer a relaxing and catered area at the heart of the venue open to all visitors and participants—this space will include a

Above: Set in the world-famous Port Hercules of the Principality of Monaco since 1991, the Monaco Yacht Show is the only place to admire, visit and purchase the world’s most extraordinary superyachts.

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COLLECTIONS // TRAVEL

Champagne bar and a restaurant offering a uniquely designed menu created by Philippe Joannes of the Private Dining Fairmont Monte Carlo group. This year’s visitors will be encouraged to download the Monaco Yacht Show app before attending the event. The app will act as every visitor’s information guide for the entire occasion. As the event approaches, the app will be updated with information on yachts and exhibitors right up until the start of its grand opening in September. 

Above: Not only a well-known staple amongst Mediterranean cruising grounds, Port Hercules and the Principality of Monaco itself has long been the destination of choice for superyacht owners and guests. Right: Each year, the Monaco Yacht Show welcomes almost 580 exhibiting companies and partners to its doors.

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STYLE AND DESIGN // Mosaics

A Journey Through Time The mosaic as a form of art has been around for millenniums. We take a look at how different cultures and ancient civilisations influenced its evolution through the ages By Annalisa D’Alessio

Above: The Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy, holds some of the finest Byzantine mosaics in the western world.

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Mosaics // STYLE AND DESIGN

IMAGES: © 123rf

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t was during the Neolithic Period— around 4,000 BC—that terracotta ‘cones’ were first applied onto objects as a means of decoration. This technique, now more commonly known as the mosaic, has undergone a great deal of change since that time millions of years ago. During the Bronze Age (800 BC) it started appearing on pavements in both the Minoan civilization in Crete and the Mycenaean civilization in mainland Greece, but it wasn’t until the Classical and Hellenic periods in 400 BC that the mosaic took a more distinct form—it became widely used by the Greeks to depict detailed and colourful scenes of people, animals and everyday life. The Axial Period, 200 BC, brought with it the inception of the ‘tesserae’ in the creation of Greek-style mosaics. Subsequently, during the golden age of the Roman Empire, opulent mosaics portrayed gods and religious symbols— this created the mosaic as we know it

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today. Made out of materials such as glass, marble, tiles and pottery, these works of art are as precious as they are telling of what life used to be like many years ago. They hold accurate records of everyday items like clothes, food and tools and recall scenes such as gladiator contests, sports and agriculture. Early mosaics depicted mainly monochromatic motifs, but as the art form developed, artisans began using increasingly smaller pieces to create more elaborate designs in a wider array of colours. Famous examples of mosaics—then known as opus tessellatum in Latin—dating back to this period are the Alexander the Great mosaic, depicting the famous conqueror on his horse Bucephalus during the battle of Issus, and a depiction of a cat with birds and seafood found in the archeological site of the ancient Roman city of Pompeii. Eastern influences of the Byzantine Empire began dictating mosaic styles and designs during the 5th century. The use

Above: A view of the opulent Byzantine mosaic depicting Christ Pantocrator in Hagia Sophia—a former mosque and church in Istanbul, Turkey.

of smalti—glass tesserae sourced from northern Italy—gave mosaics an entirely new texture, look and feel. Made out of coloured glass and sometimes backed by a reflective gold leaf, these small and precious pieces were meticulously assembled in order to allow for clever light reflection and refraction. One of the most notable surviving examples of Byzantine mosaic art is the grandiose depiction of Christ Pantocrator in the Hagia Sophia museum in Constantinople—present-day Istanbul. Several well-known examples of these mosaics were also created during the age of emperor Justinian I and can be found in Ravenna, Italy, in the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia and the Basilica of San Vitale. During the 8th century, the Islamic Empire caused yet another shift in styles of

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STYLE AND DESIGN // Mosaics

Above: A facade of the colourful Casa Batlló, a famous building designed by Antoni Gaudi located in the heart of Barcelona.

Left: New York’s 51st Street mosaic found on the city’s IRL Lexington Avenue subway line dates back to 1918—when the line was first opened.

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Mosaics // STYLE AND DESIGN

IMAGES: © SIcIS

Above & Below: Modern home interior mosaic murals made by Sicis, the luxury art mosaic factory.

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STYLE AND DESIGN // Mosaics

the mosaic as a form of art. This type of composition did not centre around figurative religious depictions as its Byzantine counterpart did—instead, it focused on intricate geometric and mathematical patterns. The great mosque of Cordoba and the Alhambra Palace in Spain are great examples of Islamic mosaic art, as is the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus—which was built between 706 and 715 AD. In more modern times, mosaic art saw somewhat of a revival in the 19th century— the Byzantine style emerged once again during this time—after a sharp decline in popularity during the Middle Ages. Its distinct influence can be seen in famous landmark monuments like the SacreCoeur Basilica in Paris and Westminster Cathedral in London. More recently still, the Art Nouveau movement introduced the use of these tiles to cover larger surfaces; a technique famously employed by architects Antoni Gaudi and Josep Maria Jujol in some of Barcelona’s most colourful and notable cultural hotspots—namely Parc Güell and Casa Batlló. This ancient art has been used for millions of years to decorate houses and places of worship and depict scenes of everyday life. Nowadays, the mosaic has developed into a popular craft; modern artisans make use of anything from glass, shells, mirrors, beads, stone and ceramic. While antique mosaics used to be predominantly architectural, their modern counterparts can be used to decorate just about anything—from benches and furniture to flowerpots and windows. Today, mosaics are omnipresent and can be seen everywhere, from parks, streets (namely San Francisco’s famous 16th Avenue Tiled Steps project), gardens, subway stations— there are over 70 mosaics in New York’s 42nd Street subway station alone—and even private, everyday homes. 

Above: Mosaics in the fortress and palace of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain. Right: Interior view of the Sacre-Coeur Basilica in Paris, France.

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Luxury Mosaics Meet Interior Design 30 years since its conception SICIS is now exploring luxury interior design, still guided by its original founding principle—the mosaic as a form of art A historic form of art going as far back as the third millennium BC, the mosaic has now been propelled into the contemporary art landscape. Sicis, a leading creator and designer of exquisite mosaics that are 100% made in Italy, has become synonymous with luxury and uniqueness. Born in Ravenna in 1987, the manufacturer continues to be at the forefront of the production of this historic form of art. The mosaic industry and the mosaic as a form of decoration in the last 30 years has greatly influenced by Sicis’s own Maurizio Leo Placuzzi and his double indirect patent method. This process—which consists in the tesserae being preassembled and made up into smaller-size segments—has facilitated the easy creation of mosaics in workshops and their ability to be transported worldwide. New techniques of realisation and application have also been developed of tiles in glass, marble and stones as well as metals such as steel and even the more precious gold and platinum. Sicis has gone above and beyond the creation of mosaics as mere surfaces decorations, enhancing their use in different categories from furniture to objects and catapulting the company into wide global

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attention. Their new venture, Sicis The Next Art, presents consumers with a whole new way of interpreting architecture and focuses on luxury home interiors created with a meticulous attention to material provenance and quality. The collection includes furniture, lamps, mirrors and textiles at the forefront of the latest interior design trends. Complete with every design element, the unique objects in this collection can be true centrepieces of refined, elegant rooms and are all characterised by comfortable and livable luxury. The company’s ethos revolves around a strong attention to quality and detail. This is mirrored in everything Sicis does—from sourcing highcalibre materials, to collaborating with the finest Italian artisans and looking after the production process down to the smallest detail. Every piece in Sicis’ Next Art collection is bound together through the use of minute mosaics—while a trailblazer in artistic design, the company continues to be true to its powerful founding principle, bringing the mosaic from the limbo of history into the contemporary design scene.

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STYLE AND DESIGN // FASHION

The Influencer:

A Balenciaga Retrospective The V&A unveils its newest exhibition to celebrate the pioneering designs of Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga By Phoebe Ollerearnshaw

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Images: © CeCIl Beaton studIo arChIve at sotheBy’s

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is innovative clothing designs and groundbreaking manipulation of fabrics helped craft an immovable legacy within the fashion industry. Regarded by his peers as the pinnacle of style, his former apprentice Oscar de la Renta revered him as a designer ‘who never did anything in bad taste’, while his protégé Hubert de Givenchy described him as ‘my religion’. From the 27 May, a retrospective entitled Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion will be exhibiting at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London to celebrate works from the illustrious career of Cristóbal Balenciaga. The display will showcase over 100 garments and hats crafted by ‘the master’ of haute couture along with his protégées and other designers that have been influenced by his techniques. This event marks the 100th anniversary of the opening of Balenciaga’s first boutique, Eisa, along with the 80th anniversary of the opening of his famous fashion house in Paris. Born in 1895 in a small fishing village in northern Spain, Balenciaga was the son of a popular seamstress who acquired an eye for fashion very early in life. From the young age of 12 he began an apprenticeship in a local tailor shop, nurturing his skills and passion for the craft. Many of his memorable designs are inspired by his Spanish heritage—his Infanta dress being a prime example. The layering of fabrics and vibrant colours echo that of a flamenco dancer’s dress. Other samples of his garments reveal similar nods to his roots with details of black lace, silk, complex beadwork and Latin-inspired patterns.

Above: Flamenco-style evening dress, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1961 Photograph by Cecil Beaton, 1971.

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Images: © condé nast; IrvIng penn foundatIon

FASHION // STYLE AND DESIGN

Above: Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn wearing coat by Crisótbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1950. Photograph by Irving Penn.

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STYLE AND DESIGN // FASHION

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in the collection. It is rumoured that after his death in 1972, von Bismarck took to her bed for three days to mourn his passing. During the 50s, while most designers were stuck in the New Look fashion mentality with hourglass waistlines, Balenciaga was reimagining the future of fashion. He introduced glamour without a waistline with the release of his sack dress. Never before had non-figure-hugging designs been considered chic. His aim was to break away from the restrictive nature of haute couture, instead emphasising the body with flow and movement of material. Although his designs were originally met with a degree of apprehension by the press, it didn’t take long for them to be accepted for their ingenuity and filter down into the mainstream. Balenciaga’s advanced skills in tailoring allowed him to translate his

Above [l-r]: Bolero jacket, EISA, Spain, 1947. Evening dress, silk taffeta, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1955.

structural ideas from paper into real life, giving him an edge over his competitors. The collection will be brought together with archive sketches, patterns, photographs, fabric samples and catwalk footage to provide an in-depth look into the unique work that led to Balenciaga’s reputation as one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century. The first room of the show seeks to diminish the millennial visions of fashion as solely constricted to trend and pattern by putting a larger emphasis on garment construction.

Images: © museo crIstóbal balencIaga; vIctorIa and albert museum, london

The V&A’s collection will focus on his work from the 50s and 60s, arguably the most creative designs of his era. His iconic shapes are still valued as wardrobe staples today—examples that will appear within the exhibit include the tunic, sack, baby doll and shift dresses. Balenciaga’s soaring reputation gave him the opportunity to style various members of the elite, with whom he built strong relationships with. A few privately commissioned ensembles will also be displayed at the exhibition, most notably outfits created for Ava Gardner, Gloria Guinness and wealthy socialite Mona von Bismarck. Von Bismarck, who was a particularly prestigious client, often came to him for both casual and luxurious attire. From lavish ball gowns to garden-wear, her commissioned pieces all take pride of place

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Images: © HIro 1967

FASHION // STYLE AND DESIGN

Above: Alberta Tiburzi in ‘envelope’ dress by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Harper’s Bazaar, June 1967.

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STYLE AND DESIGN // FASHION

period. His minimalist aesthetic has undoubtedly been passed on through the designs of his former apprentices André Courrèges and Emanuel Ungaro, and seen in a later revival by Phoebe Philo. But the transitioning nature of fashion was difficult for Balenciaga. For a man who had once stated that he could not imagine creating clothing without knowing who it was intended for, the mass-produced culture that was emerging left him sidelined for a while. However, the cyclical nature of design has hugely emphasised the importance of customer experience in today’s fashion business. For that reason, many people believe that Balenciaga’s work and attitude was ahead of its time.

It isn’t hard to find whispers of Balenciaga’s avant-garde flair imprinted on today’s designs—in fact, one might only need to open their wardrobe doors. The V&A’s extensive collection aims to shine a light on an innovator whose genius transcends time. In the words of Christian Dior, ‘Haute Couture is like an orchestra whose conductor is Balenciaga. We other couturiers are the musicians and we follow the direction he gives.’  Below [l-r]: Cristóbal Balenciaga at work, Paris, 1968. Photograph by Henri Cartier-Bresson. Oscar de la Renta, spring-summer 2015 ready-to-wear, look 37.

Images: © magnum photos; catwalkIng

Visitors will be transported back to experience Balenciaga as it would have been in its heyday. Meanwhile, the museum will feature a collaborative digital pattern-making project with the London College of Fashion, along with a high-tech forensic investigation into the garments with X-ray artist Nick Veasey. X-ray shots will capture the outfits from an original perspective; unveiling the intricacies and detailing that make up each garment’s complex silhouette. The second half of the exhibition will focus on Balenciaga’s lasting impression on the fashion industry, revealing elements of his style in over 30 different fashion designer’s works spanning a 50-year

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STYLE & DESIGN // FASHION

Reigning

Fashion

IMAGES: © LooMIS DEAn/ThE LIFE PIcTurE coLLEcTIon/LIcEnSED by GETTy IMAGES

Dior, one of the most prestigious couture houses on the planet, is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. An exhibition in Melbourne charts its phenomenal history with an exclusive and elegant retrospective By Annalisa D’Alessio

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FASHION // STYLE & DESIGN

IMAGES: © Guy MArInEAu

W

hen Christian Dior was asked by wealthy French entrepreneur Marcel Boussac to design for Philippe et Gaston—a renowned and established Paris fashion house—in 1946, he politely refused. His dream was to make a fresh start in the textile industry under his own name, and later that same year he did just that. On 16 December, with backing from Boussac himself, Dior founded his now legendary fashion house. 70 years after his firstever collection—named New Look by Harper’s Bazaar’s then editor-in-chief Carmel Snow—made its debut in 1947, Dior is still a trailblazer in the international haute couture world. Characterised by a small pinched-in waist and a full skirt falling just below the knees, pieces in this early collection brought back the spirit of haute couture in France and revived and revolutionised the fashion industry as a whole. It didn’t come without criticism, however, with many claiming that Dior’s use of large amounts of extravagant fabrics during a post-war period of cloth rationing and restrictions was wasteful. As the Dior brand grew, so did its presence around the globe. In 1947, Christian Dior Parfums was established with the launch of its first scent, Miss Dior. A year later, in 1948, the opening of a luxury ready-to-wear boutique on 5th Avenue in New York city signalled a true turning point for the fashion house as it started to expand from its French beginnings. The first Dior lipstick was released in 1955 and its cosmetics business was born in 1969 with the release of an exclusive line. By then, the fashion house had well and truly taken off—it boasted the sale of more than 100,000 garments before its 10th anniversary. When Christian Dior died in 1957, the company went through a brief, but dramatic, period of turmoil. The general manager at the time, Jacques Rouët, considered shutting down the operation worldwide, but it was the promotion of 21-year-old Yves Saint Laurent to the post of artistic director that truly propelled the label back on its feet. To celebrate this impressive anniversary, the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne, Australia, is

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Facing Page: Christian Dior models in the salon of House of Dior’s headquarters, 30 Avenue Montaigne, Paris 1957. Photograph by Loomis Dean, featured in LIFE Magazine, 1957. Below: Christian Dior, Paris (fashion house) Joh Galliano (designer) spring-summer 2011 haute couture collection Photograph by Guy Marineau.

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STYLE & DESIGN // FASHION

Below [l-r]: Sketch by Christian Dior for the autumn-winter 1949 haute couture collection. Christian Dior, Paris (fashion house), Maria Grazia Chiuri (designer), spring-summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection.

IMAGES: © chrIStIAn dIor; dIor

staging a sumptuous display dedicated to Dior’s fashion history and evolution of style through time. Divided into distinct themes, the exhibition will feature more than 140 garments designed between 1947 and 2017 by its most celebrated artistic directors—namely Christian Dior himself, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons and the recently appointed Maria Grazia Chiuri. Some highlights on display include Christian’s 1947 New Look collection, ball gowns, haute couture evening dresses and some signature inaugural pieces by the fashion house’s first female creative director, Chiuri. The exhibition, which is organised in collaboration with Christian Dior Couture, will also examine the founder’s early influences, chart the expansion of the

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FASHION // STYLE & DESIGN

IMAGES: © PAtrIck DEMArchElIEr/lIcEnSED by Art+coMMErcE

Right: Christian Dior, Paris (fashion house), Raf Simons (designer), autumn-winter 2012 haute couture collection.

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brand after his premature death in 1957, highlight the role of accessories in haute couture and give visitors insights into the label’s famous atelier workrooms. Dior’s longstanding connection to Melbourne will also be examined; the retrospective will include the historic 1948 Spring fashion parade—the first complete Dior collection of its kind to be shown outside of Paris.

‘The real proof of an elegant woman is what is on her feet’ —Christian Dior The iconic Lady Dior bag, the fashion house’s flagship item, has become a true style statement as well as one of the most recognisable accessories in the whole industry. The designer’s couture garments are worn by the most famous celebrities worldwide, and the brand is represented by modern-day stars such as Natalie Portman, Bella Hadid, Johnny Depp and Jennifer Lawrence. From its small beginnings in Paris, Dior’s stellar growth into one of the best-known names in fashion has truly been a one-of-a-kind journey. •

IMAGES: © pol bArIl; HEnry ClArkE, MuSéE GAllIErA. ADAGp, pArIS. lICEnSED by VISCopy, SyDnEy

» The House of Dior: Seventy Years of Haute Couture will run from 27 August to 7 November 2017 at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne.

Above: Inside the ateliers of the House of Dior, 2012. Right: Christian Dior hat from the Raout silhouette, spring-summer 1956 haute couture collection, Fleche line.

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FINE JEWELLERY // ColleCtions

Jewellery Meets Art

A new exhibition at The National Museum of Modern Art in Kyoto draws parallels between Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewellery and traditional Japanese crafts By Phoebe Ollerearnshaw

IMAGES: © PAtrIck GrIES; VAn clEEf & ArPElS

F

or centuries, Japan’s city of Kyoto has been a central hub for the creative arts. This year, the city’s National Museum of Modern Art will house its latest exhibition Mastery of an Art: Van Cleef & Arpels—High Jewellery and Japanese Crafts. The retrospective will focus its attention on French high jewellery and Japanese craftsmanship, providing insight into each country’s cultures. 260 high jewellery pieces by Van Cleef & Arpels will be on display, accompanied by 60 works of art by various Japanese artists. ‘This exhibition will be […] explaining the different crafts and techniques we are using and those that have been used in Japan,’ says Nicolas Luchsinger, director of the heritage collection at Van Cleef & Arpels.

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The display will be divided into three sections: History of Van Cleef & Arpels, Mastery of an Art and A Fusion of Cultures and the Future. The first section aims to map the history of the established Maison since the company was founded in 1906 in Paris to the present day. Eighty pieces of jewellery will be used here to demonstrate the evolution of its style and technical innovation; among these examples is the famous Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Mystery Set’. Patented in 1933, the ‘Mystery Set’ refers to a unique technique which allows a stone to be set within a jewellery piece with no visible metal, framing or prongs. The stone is elevated and accentuated, as if floating. This technique has been carried forward and used within the work of the skillful craftsmen such as Mains d’Or. The Zip necklace will also take pride of place in this section. The necklace,

which can transform into a bracelet, makes for a versatile yet elegant design. The second part of the exhibition will present a selection of 100 pieces that encapsulate the craftsmanship involved in haute joaillerie by Van Cleef & Arpels, alongside 50 equally sublime Japanese crafts. This section will seek to draw parallels between the skillsets required to create the two artistries. In Japanese culture, meticulously made crafts such as vases, incense boxes and clips are considered as valuable as fine art. The modern era around the end of the Meiji Period (1868-1912) saw a huge emphasis on creative Above: Bird clip and pendant Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, 1971-1972 Gold, emeralds, sapphires, yellow & white diamonds, a 96,62 carats briolette-cut yellow diamond.

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ColleCtions // FINE JEWELLERY

and original designs by independent Japanese artisans. A variety of techniques are associated with this time period and will appear within the display: cloisonné enamel, lacquerware with maki-e enamel (precious metal dust sprinkled on lacquer), ceramics, metalwork and gold brocade used in junihitoe (a twelve-layered ceremonial kimono). Similarly, high jewellery, with exquisite stones and masterful metalwork, can also be described as treasure. The exhibition aims to interweave examples of each cultural art form, likening each one’s methods, expertise and effort to manufacture. A Fusion of Cultures and the Future, the final section of the collection, will try to encourage the emergence of a new perspective. Work by Moriguchi Kunihiko (yuzen dyeing), Kitamura Takeshi (tatenishiki weaving), Nakagawa Kiyotsugu (woodcrafts), the lacquer artisan Hattori Shunsho and the ceramic artist Miwa Kyusetsu XII will also take centre stage. The closing of the exhibit will highlight the inception of collaborative pieces; this special display will feature art works that involve aspects of both French and Japanese influence. Curators at Kyoto’s National Museum of Art are ‘convinced that it will be possible to attain a greater level of cultural exchange and fusion between France and Japan’ with the inclusion of their traditional crafts on display. They shrewdly observe that passion for art and workmanship transcends borders; it is a language understood by everybody irrespective of nationality, which is precisely the message intended within this monumental exhibition. 

[Top-bottom]: Two leaves clip Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, 1967 Platinum, gold, Mystery Set emeralds, diamonds.

IMAGES: © EzAkI YoShIkAzu; AnthonY FAlconE; VAn clEEF & ArpElS; pAtrIck GrIES

Incense case with paulownia designs by Hattori Shunsho Van Cleef & Arpels, 2014 Lacquerware. Barquerolles choker Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, 1971 Gold, emeralds, diamonds. Pampilles earrings Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, 1923 Platinum, emeralds, diamonds. Pot with butterflies and flower arabesque patterns by Namikawa Yasuyuki, late 19th century [Meiji era] The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto Cloisoneé enamel.

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COLLECTIONS // ART

Luxury

Home Collectables Collectors are travelling far and wide to discover the rarest and most desirable of possessions. Some in our selection can be found to date back to the 7th century, while others are set to become classics of our era By Tom Allaway

FABERGÉ EGGS This unique and exquisitely designed collection dates back to the Tsar era and has, at its peak, fetched around U.S. $9.6 million at a Christie’s New York auction. These jewelled creations were designed and made by the House of Fabergé—between the years of 1885 and 1917 virtually all of the eggs were crafted under the supervision of Peter Carl Fabergé. A large proportion of these eggs are owned by a variety of museums but you will find the occasional private collector, such as Viktor Vekselberg (an oil and gas tycoon), who owns nine of the eggs, paying U.S. $100 million for the privilege. Queen Elizabeth II herself owns three of these precious eggs as part of her royal collection. What makes these ornaments truly special is that each houses a unique and prodigal gift within. The House of Fabergé still exists today. Under new ownership it re-launched as a jeweller in 2009, with the new management hiring two of Fabergé’s great-granddaughters as directors.

APHRODITE VINTAGE DECANTER

IMAGES: © MICHAEL BODIAM

As part of the Lalique collection, the Aphrodite Vintage Decanter is currently selling for $2900. Joining the luxurious range of Lalique decanters already available, this design uses

Right: The Wedgewood Lee Broom Collection, 2017.

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ART // COLLECTIONS

glare of satin-finished crystal and a curvaceous sculpture of Aphrodite to stand out as a unique counterpart to its predecessors. Handcrafted in France, this design—which is new for 2017—is made from the finest crystal and intended to truly encapsulate the luxury lifestyle.

THE 1066 PIANO COLLECTION These traditional, exceptionally crafted pianos are grandiose and opulent. From tastefully subtle to the outrageously extravagant, these pianos are the ideal home collectable for music lovers—or those with a taste for the theatrical. Using the 1066 design studio, you can create a bespoke piano made from the finest materials and your choice of lacquer. Otherwise, invest in one from the exquisitely made, limited edition production collection.

ANNIE LEIBOVITZ, TASCHEN

THE WEDGWOOD LEE BROOM LIMITED EDITION COLLECTION

Broom are set to become a modern feature of any serious collectors’ assortment. Broom’s new capsule assembly consists of a set of limited edition ornaments whose key features include using monochrome stripes as the focal point of his design. There are four designs in total, each of which is produced to the limited number of 15. Broom took several classic Wedgwood silhouettes from different periods, juxtaposing them with postmodern forms. The elegant Wedgwood Lee Broom collection is priced from £7,500 and available exclusively at Harrods luxury department store in London. •

Below Left: Taschen, Annie Leibovitz Cover: Keith Haring, New York City, 1986 50 x 69 cm. Below Right: 1066 Pianos, Wood Collection.

A collection currently exclusive to Harrods, the vases and chinaware designed by Lee

IMAGES: © TASHCEN.COM, 1066 PIANOS

When publisher Benedict Taschen proposed the idea to renowned portrait photographer Annie Leibovitz to compile her greatest works into a ‘sumo-sized’ book, she was

both intrigued and challenged. What was eventually produced took several years to compose and is now both a collector’s delight as well as a visionary compilation of work. Containing previously unseen images of icons such John Lennon and Yoko Ono, the book also makes divine use of its proportions to include a range of group shots that could only be truly appreciated with the quality this publication postulates. A key feature of this publication is the four exclusive covers it has to offer; Whoopi Goldberg, Keith Haring, David Byrne and Patti Smith. There are a total of 10,000 signed and numbered copies, available as either a Collector’s Edition (No. 1,001–10,000) or as an Art Edition (No. 1–1,000) with a fine art print, signed by Annie Leibovitz, and the full set of all four covers. Each book also comes with a stand designed by affluent designer Marc Newson.

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Advertorial

New premium line Luxury Lifestyle – Superior category sleeping comfort Since mid-2011, Brinkhaus GmbH—a company rich in tradition —has been part of the EuroComfort Group, the European market leader in the mattress and bedding products industry. This enables Brinkhaus, previously known for its well-established range of bedding products centred around high-quality down duvets, to draw on the experience of the other companies within the Group in related product areas—for example mattresses and boxspring beds —and to make use of potential synergies In addition to new developments in the established range of bedding products, i.e. product refinement and additional products in our range of down and feather-filled quilts and pillows as well as quilted duvets with real hair filling. Brinkhaus is now presenting its newly developed premium product line Luxury Lifestyle. A complete range for superior sleeping comfort, now also including mattresses and underframes as well as a highly up-to-date boxspring programme. Finest materials featuring new constructions and new material combinations characterise the comprehensively redesigned range of bedding products. Thus, for example, the Luxury Lifestyle quilted duvet range now includes the real hair quilt Cashmere Trio with two layers in noble cashmere, between which is a layer from high-tech branded hollow fibre. The result: ideal heat and moisture management with long-lasting excellent loft. In the down quilt range, there are now top products in the Chalet category which reveal the experienced hand of the Brinkhaus experts, including, for example, the “Chalet” eiderdown duvet. The very finest filling, in a very fine casing from jacquard silk. New from Brinkhaus and an important component of the holistic Luxury Lifestyle sleeping concept are the “New York” mattresses. Their special feature: the high-quality high resilience foam and pocket spring core mattresses with their generous comfort height of approximately 26cm, feature a luxurious overlay on both

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The BRINKHAUS box spring bed systems create unbeatably restful sleeping comfort that ideally envelops the entire body thanks to the sophisticated interaction between these individual elements. Discover the immense variety of our box spring beds and choose your very personal model. Select from the broad variety of design variations and colour collections to put together a customised and deeply individual bed in which you feel entirely at home. A bed’s quality is vital to restful sleep. We cannot start the day feeling refreshed and invigorated without first enjoying a good night’s sleep. Upholding this standard as a guiding principle, BRINKHAUS box spring bed systems are synonymous with perfect sleeping comfort.

sides, each attached to the mattress via a zip fastener. They offer additional comfort, comparable with a topper, and can be removed and cleaned separately. Thus ensuring both added function and improved hygiene. Naturally, the “New York” mattresses are also available in the most popular hardness grades H2 and H3. Through its Luxury Lifestyle collection, Brinkhaus—as an exciting complement to its traditional product portfolio—is entering a new product area for its established customers at home and abroad as well as for new customers. With the fantastic perspective for the future: superior, luxurious sleeping comfort—affordable!

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Bringing Luxury To Your Home With over 60 years experience in high-end fashion, luxury goods and tableware, Kensington Bespoke brings the style and elegance of Kensington High Street straight to your home. Offering fine luggage, accessories and collectibles, our luxury personal shopping service truly has its customers at heart. Carefully sourced by experts in quality, all our products are made in Great Britain or Europe—with meticulous attention to detail—by the finest craftsmen in the field. With free same day or next day delivery on all UK orders, we provide a true bespoke service. High-end, chic, distinctive and unique, Kensington Bespoke is where luxury and style are made excellent. To shop the collection please visit our luxury webstore at

kensington-bespoke.uk

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WHERE TO SPEND IT // COLLECTABLES

Where to

SPEND IT

From Montblanc’s innovative watches to artistic Louis Vuitton bags, the latest luxury goods on our list are a must-have for any collection By Tom Allaway

A Life in the fAst LAne The new Ford GT 2017 captures the design of intensity and elegance in equal measure. From its 3.5L EcoBoost® technology to its ultra-efficient aerodynamics, this work of art is primed to ensure top performance and satisfaction. Its teardrop-shape structure comes from extensive work in the wind tunnel while its carbon-fibre body and its 647 horsepower are the epitome of groundbreaking technology. Everything about this model has been built with speed and performance in mind. It’s both ruthless and precise—this promises to be the ultimate supercar experience. ford.com

for the expLorers

IMAGES: © kEnSInGton bESpokE; MontblAnc; ford

Perfectly encapsulating the age of African exploration during the 20s, this 18-inch luxury cabin case is part of The Safari Collection from Globe-Trotter. Beautifully hand-finished with natural leather corners, handles and straps, the natural leather will darken with age, developing a rich honey colour over time. HM Queen Elizabeth II chose Globe-Trotter for her honeymoon luggage in 1947 (and continues to use these cases to this day). Globe-Trotter is also the luggage of choice for 007 James Bond. kensington-bespoke.uk

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Keeping up with the times Mixing modern design and traditional craftsmanship, Montblanc creates innovative watches that stand the test of time. With eye-catching detail of an excellent calibre, these watches showcase the best of honing state-of-the-art ideas to create something brand new, yet very familiar. Montblanc’s new Smartwatch range uses its signature design to cleverly retain the classic feel of the watch while incorporating a range of new features. These include the Android Wear 2.0; you can check digital information at a glance, reply by text or voice, save time with smart help or voice-enabled assistance and follow your own fitness programme— whether it is walking, running or biking. With pre-loaded apps and maps and the ability to download new content over wifi, you’re getting a watch that expertly blends luxury and innovation in one striking device. montblanc.com

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COLLECTABLES // WHERE TO SPEND IT

ART BY DESIGN Louis Vuitton collaborated with artist Jeff Koons to create a new collection of bags and accessories. New York-based artist Koons— best known for his long-standing Gazing Ball painting series—is widely recognised for his contemporary art. This collection has reproduced large hand-painted works of classics by Da Vinci, Rubens and Van Gogh. Now, these designs have been transposed to various Louis Vuitton bags such as the Speedy and the Kepaal. This spring launch plans to be the first stage of a long collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Koons. louisvuitton.com

TIFFANY HARDWEAR Designed to capture the elegant subversive style of the women of New York City, Tiffany’s Hardwear Collection features a range of luxury rings, necklaces and earrings that dare to dazzle. This selection chooses to ignore minimalism, instead going bold with its choices, stunning us with a gusto that’s easy-to-wear with more casual attire. The pieces are either sterling silver or 18-carat yellow or rose gold—these are chunkier, more robust pieces earning their hardwear title. tiffany.co.uk

PORTRAITS AND PERFUMERY Penhaligon’s collaborated with artist Kristjana Williams to create the bespoke Portraits packaging. Separated into two ‘chapters’, these unique products blend perfumery and art to create a combination of aristocracy and English spirit, playing on the British sense of humour and provocation. penhaligons.com

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IMAGES: © LOUIS VUITTON X KOONS; KORMARAN; PENHALIGON’S; TIFFANY & CO.

AQUATIC ADVANCEMENTS The KORMARAN K7 is the adaptive, futuristic luxury vessel you’ve always dreamed of. Able to move between four different modes—driving, gliding, flying and breath-taking (lounging mode)—this impeccably designed sea vessel is the peak of lavishness, and a must have for gadget enthusiasts or anyone looking to indulge in a bit of luxury. kormaran.com

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Our holographic speakers, inspired by the

beauty of nature,

emanate elegance and provide excellent sound quality

Feel the music in a way you never heard

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Arts & Collections: Volume 2 2017  

The international magazine of Art & Culture