Clandestine Whisky Magazine Issue 1 (Australia and New Zealand)

Clandestine Whisky Issue 1 • Dec '21

Table of Contents

62

06

GlenAllachie

Arbikie

16

68

whisky.tee

Bottled in Bond

20

72

Lindores Abbey

Sagamore Spirits

34

84

Teeling

Whisky Explorer

44

86

Catoctin Creek

Angels Nectar

52

90

For The Love Of Sherry

Outlaw Rum

56

96

Maid of the Malt

Armagnac Armin

100

Killarey Distillery

Hello

Editor’s Letter Welcome to the community.

This bumper first edition is a celebration of whisky for the whisky community by the community. It is a passion project fuelled by a desire to learn and explore the world of whisky in all its forms. My vision is to bring us together and focus on the human elements of whisky, our shared passion. Whilst there may be technical articles in the future, they will be few and far between. This magazine is a platform for you to have a voice should you wish to contribute or be interviewed. In fact, I encourage it.

This project would not have been possible without the incredible people I have met in the community, of which there are too many to mention. Through the forthcoming months I shall be highlighting them in the magazine, as I believe what they post should be read. Some are industry professionals, but mostly they are knowledgeable and informed enthusiasts.

People who send me drams of something exciting, tell me of a new tasting opportunity, or simply just wanting to chat about whisky. There is always so much to learn. As a photographer, I love to see the incredible images posted and hope to be able to share these with you in future editions.

Editor’s Letter

continued

It has not been easy to compile this magazine during Covid times, I would have preferred to do a lot more in-person visits, but it reflects the times that we live in. I was able to visit Speyside recently, which will feature in Issue 2 (please subscribe on our website www.clandestine-whisky.com) where there will be a full report alongside distillery profiles and interviews. You can see the first of these in this issue with the GlenAllachie feature. A taste of what is to come.

As mentioned, this magazine is for the community, and for it to succeed I need people to read it and let their friends know on Instagram, Facebook (especially groups), whisky clubs and on other social networks.

Our instagram is clandestine_whisky_ magazine and website www.clandestinewhisky.com It has been an incredible amount of work putting this publication together which I have done by myself. Getting advertisers on board was a last-minute process and literally just covers the costs of production (and certainly not my time). I wish to thank everyone of them for their support in this new publication - it will not be forgotten.

Please do check out their websites and social media.

I mentioned above that I created this magazine by myself. This is not strictly true in reality it would not have been publishable without the help of Annie Bowles, who has edited my writing, corrected the atrocious grammar, reconstructed sentences, and ensured it all made sense. Beyond that, she has watched or listened to my articles and not simply transcribed them but made them into readable articles. Thank you so much, Annie - I couldn’t have published it without you.

I would also like to thank Martin Raymond who has done a magnificent job on three of the articles, making my interviews look good on paper whilst injecting personality into them. Thank you, Martin!

Finally, a thank you to the distilleries for making themselves available for interview and sending samples to me for photography and tasting. It is hugely appreciated.

That just leaves me to say, I hope you enjoy this magazine - what started off as a passion project has grown. It may not be perfect, and I am sure I will learn lots from the feedback I receive, but it is free so if you can show some love, I will raise a dram to you. Thank you.

David Pearce Publisher and Editor

Published by Oliver Cameron Publishing Ltd Associate Editors - Annie Bowles and Martin Raymond david@clandestine-whisky.com Advertising - david@clandestine-whisky.com Premium Subscriptions - clandestine-whisky.com/subs Copyright 2021 clandestine-whisky.com

GLENALL ACH IE

YOU CANNOT IGNOR E THE IMPACT GLENALL ACHIE HA S MADE IN THE PA ST F E W YE AR S .

I LE AR N T WHAT IS DR I VING THIS CHANGE ON A R E CEN T VISI T. WOR DS AND PHOTOS DAVID PE AR CE

I

t is hard not to get excited about visiting any distillery in Speyside. How could you not? However, when that distillery happens to have been taken over by a legend of the industry, the excitement levels are amplified. For those who are not familiar, GlenAllachie was formerly used as one of the components of Chivas Regal until Billy Walker (not to be confused with the British Heavyweight boxer from the 1960s, coincidentally known as The Golden Boy) along with Trisha Savage and Graham Stevenson purchased the distillery in October 2017. Billy is known for his ownership and work at GlenDronach, BenRiach and Glenglassaugh, where he transformed the distilleries into what they are today, before being sold to Brown Forman. Billy’s career started in my birth year, 1972, when he was part of the team developing blends at the company which owned Ballantine’s at the time. If you have a bottle of vintage Ballantine’s in your collection, there is a possibility that Billy may well have been a part of that bottle’s creation. That is quite a thought.

Although the distillery can produce four million litres of alcohol, they operate at around 600,000 a very small fraction compared to what is possible for them. The water is sourced from dam heads around two miles from the distillery. Henshead and Blackstank flow into Beatshach Burn, which supplies the water directly to the distillery, and sits on the North East of BenRinnes. Ben Rinnes is a mountain

which has one single path to reach the summit, sitting at 841 metres from which you can view eight counties. One of the main attractions of the walk are the waterfalls, a sight I look forward to visiting in the future.

As you approach the distillery for the first time, you are taken aback by the sheer size of the operation, passing warehouse after warehouse (sixteen in total).

You see the main building, nestled behind a beautiful pond, complete with established trees framing this now iconic building, which until a couple of years ago was closed to the public. Beauty is

How you can visit GlenAllachie is located in Speyside, just a short drive from the pretty town of Aberlour. With many amenities and range of accommodation options it is the perfect town to base yourself in if touring the distilleries.

I stayed at the Dowans Hotel on the first night with its incredible whisky room followed by the Mash Tun which is more relaxed with rooms that are very well appointed. In fact I had a suite there!

Naturally there are an abundance of distilleries in the vicinity, but remember the zero drink drive policy in Scotland.

The Mash Tun has one of the largest collections of Glenfarclas Family Cask in the world.

The town is also home to the very friendly Speyside whisky shop.

Here you can find a great selection including a host of rarities, especially from The Macallan and Ardbeg.

this by definition.

On the day of my visit, Juliette, a brand ambassador was my personal tour guide. We had a great conversation, talking of skiing and travel as much as whisky. We discussed how I still ski in a classic 1980s French style (Juliet being French herself), which is very much frowned upon. I argue not everything from the eighties and nineties is bad, I enjoy it and have no intention of changing.

As we started looking around one of the barrel warehouses, Richard the distillery manager appeared s u g ge s t i n g we grab a coffee and

like some staves and a cask end to take home.

I naturally jumped at the chance, Richard even hand drew the GlenAllachie branding using the template for me. All I have to do now is decide where to keep it. Maybe I should have it made into a table to place my current dram on.

have a chat in the boardroom. I jumped at the chance. Upon entering, my eyes wandered to the left, observing a boardroom table full of papers, presumably from a morning meeting.

My mind started to wonder what the meeting was about, could it have been scheduling future releases? Something old and exceptional?

I don’t know, but I shall let ideas of a 1972 single cask permutate through my mind.

Alongside inheriting 50,000 casks, GlenAllachie is of course on a continuous cycle of distilling.

One of the major changes they have made since taking over is allowing fermentation to last for 160 hours. This extra time will give them time to understand the new make spirit which flows through two spirit safes allowing them to operate the sets of stills independently of each other.

After half an hour or so, the boardroom door slowly opened, allowing Billy Walker himself to enter the room…I recalled my initial thoughts over the meeting that morning. Was it about future expressions? I am fairly used to meeting celebrities in my life as a sports photographer and know the last thing Billy probably wanted to talk about was whisky. So, I didn’t. I hope he appreciated that. I am sure there will be other occasions to do so. We nattered away for quite some time when Billy mentioned he had signed some bottles recently. My brain activated immediately, and for the first time I mentioned whisky, asking if he would sign some bottles for me. They will have pride of place in my collection.

Bottles signed, we had another look around the warehouses, which should be more appropriately referred to as cathedrals of whisky. These are my favourite locations at a distillery, as they take you on a sensory overload, especially the ex-sherry casks. Each warehouse had its own aroma, only dissipating slightly with the open doors, allowing the glorious smells to gently season the surrounding air.

Richard explained they smell each cask before filling, trying to ascertain its potential. I was offered this opportunity and was amazed by their strength. As a former wine merchant, I have a particular penchant for sherry and even flew to Jerez for lunch at a Bodega long before the budget airlines existed. Observing a cask half dismantled, I took a look at the level of charring within when Richard asked if I would

BILL WALKER CAME INTO THE ROOM...

We took a seat on the comfortable brown sofas, the sun streaming in through the large landscape orientation window, offering incredible views of the hills surrounding the distillery. It was almost blinding, making me squint, but the warmth generated was as welcome as a fine dram after a long day at work. Over coffee and biscuits, we discussed a cornucopia of topics, including our shared passion of cycling, travel and whisky.

The new make spirit then has to be matured in casks until maturation. Whilst they are waiting for this to happen, Billy’s skills really come to the fore. With 50,000 inherited casks dating back to the 1970s, it is a monumental task to taste through and discover what to bottle and when, and what finishing they might need. As any fan of GlenAllachie knows, the results have been nothing short of magnificent. Over the coming years we have so much to look forward to. How will the whisky change with revised techniques and more accomplished task management?

It will be fascinating to taste a vertical line of their vintage statement expressions and the core range. Expect incredible things to come.

I did actually talk with Richard about whisky which you can view in its entirety in the film, or read an abridged version, expertly written up by Annie Bowles on the following pages.

GlenAllachie is a distillery with a vast operation and rich history, which continues today after its takeover in 2017 by Billy Walker, Trisha Savage and Graham Stevenson, instilling a culture of dedication, expertise and thirst for knowledge into the company.

They have had amazing success in such a short time, with the monumental task of handling hundreds of thousands of casks, curating into creative, original blends. Richard especially praises Billy Walker’s particular skills, and a good understanding of his craft backed by years of experience. This is clearly an attitude ingrained into the culture of the company, as they hand-picked their new team based on passion and an eagerness to learn.

When taking over GlenAllachie, many of the original workers left as they were so loyal to the previous ownership. However, Richard says this allowed them to select people that matched their goals and aims exactly. Their reputation had gotten around, and people were interested in what they were doing, and wanted to get involved. The current warehouse manager, Lindsay, got in touch directly and expressed his interest in the project - he knew they were about the finished product, not the money.

He and Richard met at 10am on a Saturday morning for an interview - three hours later, they were still chatting about how all possible aspects could impact the whisky, how they could get the best possible product out of the means available to them.

Lindsay’s wife called wondering how the interview had gone, when it hadn’t even officially started yet!

Richard stresses this dedication is what makes the company, as all staff are ambassadors. Newbies at GlenAllachie spend a week engrossing themselves in the culture and processes of the distillery, indulging a desire for knowledge shared within the workforce.

Despite managing thousands of casks, GlenAllachie is running at just below 20% capacity, which allows them to relieve pressure financially, while still driving for quality and character. They are able to nose the casks as they come in, their current size meaning they can spend more time selecting casks specifically, choosing their casks suppliers carefully, whether bourbon, rye or sherry. Fairly traditional in some ways, Richard makes a point of saying there is no substitute for time. One can wrap casks in cling film, but tried and tested is always the best method.

GlenAllachie is fortunate enough to have plenty of space onsite (much needed for over 100,000 casks!) to keep a library of everchanging profiles and products as this whisky legacy develops over the years to come.

Whisky is about the journey, and GlenAllachie pride themselves on bringing the fabric of their distillery up to standard with big, bold stills, as well as developing their samples and expressions, coming

out with fairly consistent batches. Spending hours in the lab, referencing previous batches - all this contributes to the quality of spirit inherited, adding a complexity and character to the original basket of flavours. With a commited team, nothing is a chore, and everything must be done to a high standard, whether it be the whisky or the engineering of the distillery itself. GlenAllachie wants to show the best of what its got, imparting knowledge and feeling to whomever has a desire to learn.

In the future, GlenAllachie are planning to slowly increase production, based on their huge success and what they want to provide consumers with going forward. Whisky fans are interested in older products, so they’re working on 25 to 30-year-old expressions with great balance and character. Due to the vast amount of knowledge and experience of people on the team, they are willing to try anything, including introducing peated whisky onsite. This willingness means nothing is too unusual or difficult for the team.

Luckily, they’ve had a phenomenal response to their work thus far, building a huge folllowing who are willing to share their appreciation of the product, word of mouth driving the sales. All they really want is for someone to be with a mate and a bottle of GlenAllachie on a Friday night and think, ‘I’m gonna open that, and I know I’m really gonna enjoy that.’ Richard recalls a particularly interested group tour which culminated in the guests purchasing a few bottles, trying a dram immediately, then another. Then, after asking some especially pertinent questions, the group went down to the local village and offered a dram to everyone who came by, as it was ‘really good stuff’.

That’s what GlenAllachie is all about - learning, knowledge, and the sharing of it - that, and a really good dram.

Interview by David Pearce Article by Annie Bowles Watch the video interview in full here.

The Focus

Spotlight on @poshscotch

I really enjoy Ian’s instagram posts - he has a great appreciation of whisky and a fantastic collection. His passion for photography shows and I love his inventive nature - especially in his reels.

I have met Ian a couple of times in real life where we have gone to tastings together. The last of which was a small Talisker tasting he told me about with amongst others the 43, 41 and 30 available. You can expect a write up in the next edition. @poshscotch

True grit.

We know a bit about that. Experimenting in the back room of a former corset and buggy whip factory to create award-winning spirits. Flying down a two lane road of life, knowing where our local organic and kosher grains come from. Navigating a family-owned endeavor through this crazy ride. The journey is the reward.

We’ll see you out there.

91 Points

Jim Murray’s whisky Bible

A chat with Torie aka @whisky.tee When it’s someone as lightning fast as Instagram’s @whisky.tee, then it’s good to get the facts right about here she’s from. Torie is Lancastrian, NOT Mancunian. Our feeble defence is that she was born in York, so mixing our accents is an easy mistake to make. But she puts us right with equal parts laser-guided sharpness and charm. Which is pretty much how @whisky.eee, her Instagram page, works too. Funny, opinionated and full of enthusiasm, Torie is part of a wave of on-line influencers that have blown through the world of whisky like a force 9 across the hills of Speyside.

Her interest in whisky was initially a by-product of her love of the outdoors. We will skip over the Lyme’s Disease picked up on Helvellyn, because it was on a camping trip around Aberdeenshire that took her into the aromatic world of the distillery – Glendronach to be precise.‘That was it.’ She says. ‘I tried a dram from a hand-poured bottle. I was hooked. It was all so tactile!’

Days touring the Speyside Trail and evenings in the holy sanctum of the Mash Tun bar in Aberdour completed the process. Her fascination with the subtle complexities needs little prompting: ‘I love the different cask finishes – the way that a single distillery can provide so many different tastes. We get so hung up on the age statements – but four whiskies from different casks in the same distillery can give such amazing range. It’s not all about age.’

Torie is unduly modest about her knowledge. She sees herself as an enthusiast rather than an expert.

We’d take issue with half of that statement – she is most definitely on the case. Torrie is a very wellinformed enthusiast with brilliant insights and a nose and palate that has led her to some fascinating favourites: ‘Here’s my top four.’ She shows us a Fettercairn Warehouse No2, Ben Nevis 1996, Longmore 23year old and, with a bit of a flourish, Macallan Edition No 6. ‘I’ve given Macallan a bit of stick. I’ve sampled

the 6-year-old, the 12-year-old, the 18-year-old, all the options. I thought - yeah, yeah. And then they brought out this. Wow. Different territory all together. Toffee, raisins, all the best elements of a sherry-dram. I bought two bottles. One an investment. The other to drink. It’s my go-to treat dram.’

Torie has a rare genius for knowing exactly what she likes and being totally open minded about what that might be. ‘You’ve got to be open minded. You can’t say “Oh that distillery is not for me” because the output of each one can be so different.’

Her whole vibe is a no-nonsense, fun approach. She’s just a bit sceptical of the ‘terroir’ concept of distilling.

‘I’m not sure that most people could pick up the very subtle differences of which farm the barley was grown on, what the weather is like. The barrel will make much more of a difference anyway. Just keep your mind open to all taste experiences!’

Except her tolerance and embrace of diversity takes a sudden reversal when I take a step to far by mentioning my current drink: ‘Non-Alcoholic! That’s it. Interview over.’ Luckily, she forgives me for a second time.

Torie loves all aspects of the whisky business and is as interested in the marketing as the tasting notes.

‘The whole experience, not just the taste and smell, but the bottle, label, packaging, are what makes each whisky unique. Before you get to the taste you respond to the look of the whisky. Often the purchase is made on the basis of the packaging and

bottle. So, it’s got to have had as much thought put into it as the product itself.’

She’s less enthusiastic about the lingering sexism that still lurks around the whisky business like an unpleasant aftertaste.

‘I work in engineering – there’s probably more sexism there than in the word of whisky. But I’ve had some comments – “do you even drink whisky?” But its changing. Not just with women online but at the distilleries too. Women are taking the business forward.’

One of the ways in which the old guard can make whisky drinking seem like an exclusive club with rules drawn up in 1898, is the perennial issue of pronunciation. ‘Orangie isn’t it?

Glenmorangie?’

Torie embodies a new and exciting approach to whisky. Who cares how you pronounce it as long as you enjoy it? If whisky is less about citric nose and seaweed finish and more about people, about sharing and starting conversations, then the mix of knowledge, passion and fun that Torie brings to the party will be what takes this entire industry into the future.

Follow Torie on Instagram @whisky.tee

creative

Spotlight on @ whiskygirlsfinland

Some accounts on instagram just draw you in and whiskygirlsfinland is certainly one of them. 3 friends (2 of them sisters) share their incredible adventues with us. It might be ice swimming in a frozen fjord or dressing up as flight attendents with work colleagues when flying off to a works do in mainland Europe. They know how to have fun, be creative and capture some wondeful photographs.

Behind the fun is a serious passion for whisky and you will often find them at a distillery or out in nature exporing their incredible Finnish environment, bottle in hand of course! @whiskygirlsfinland

ENJOY AGAIN AND AGAIN

Wiggly Bridge Distillery York, Maine

VODKA

BOTTLED IN BOND

AGAVE

100 PROOF

ADD WIGGLY BRIDGE TO YOUR SPIRITS DRINK LIST

LINDORES ABBEY

Interview by David Pearce Article by Annie Bowles

Lindores Abbey is a site steeped in rich history – this unique story plays an important part in the renewal of the production of local whisky in this small, family-run distillery. The history of whiskymaking in Lindores Abbey dates back to 1494, when the earliest written reference to Scotch whisky appears on the Exchequer Roll, telling of Lindores monk John Cor, who was commissioned by King James IV to turn 8 bolls of malt into Aqua Vitae (an archaic alcoholic beverage – or medieval Scotch whisky). After 523 years, whisky began flowing once again from the distillery, with their first single malt being released this year.

Owned by the family of Drew McKenzie Smith for the best part of a century, after his great-grandfather bought the small farm in Fife in 1913 – which just so happened to have the ruined abbey included in the land - the current story of the distillery goes back twenty years to 2001. Drew describes a ‘shambolic chap in a linen suit’ asking his father if he could have a look around the Abbey ruins. Six months later, a book arrived in the post – Scotland and its Whiskies

by Michael Jackson, acclaimed whisky writer. Jackson writes that Lindores Abbey ‘for the whisky lover, [it] is a pilgrimage’. This visit and subsequent book reference was the push needed to turn the long-held fantasy of once more producing whisky at the abbey into a reality.

The road to production was a bumpy one. After taking on investors and wrestling with Lindor chocolates for trademark rights (which Drew solves by imploring, ‘This was built by the brother of the king in 1191, surely we can come to an agreement?’), the ball was set rolling by the right people. The

build costing around seven million, a new, prominent date was added to the timeline of Lindores Abbey – distilling whisky at this historic site once again began in 2017.

The production of whisky has a certain alchemical element – one must trust that the whisky is doing the right thing in the cask. Drew continually commends Gary the distillery manager on the nerve-wracking task of marrying together different casks at the correct time, as sherry and bourbon casks mature at a much different rate. The distillery uses casks treated with the STR method (shaving, toasting and recharring) coined by the late Dr Jim Swan around twenty years ago. This rejuvenates a cask, the mixture inside maturing far more quickly – a practical method when a distillery doesn’t have the luxury of waiting for a 10-year-old, which has a high cost to produce. Tasting started early, the malt beginning to take shape after just one year.

Currently at Lindores, they have a

couple of experiments running, including using casks ranging from sixty to seventy years old from Bodegas Toro Albala, which is reportedly already imparting a huge punch of flavour in their Lindores Lowland malt.

Keeping in the tradition of the preservation of history, Lindores went across the channel to Thiron-Gardais, a small village fifty miles south of Paris, which still holds a rare, treasured monastery. They recently commissioned a number of casks made from the oak grown there, which is working brilliantly with the spirit, Drew reports. The first release in July of this year was limited to 44,000 bottles, strictly saving stock for long term investments in five, ten, and twenty-year-old malts.

2021 thus became another prime date in the chronicles of Lindores Abbey Distillery.

Drew McKenzie Smith and Gary, the distillery manager, have a burden of expectation to bear as the current custodians of Lindores Abbey. Drew keeps true to the sacred nature of the site’s history but is by no means bound by tradition. Denying the title of whisky expert, Drew laments his lack of olfactory sophistication to draw flavours from the spirit, citing it is far better to be honest about what you draw from the experience of whisky drinking. Building up to their launch, which took place in the uncertain times of Covid, plenty of Zoom tastings were held. From this experience, Drew realised, every single tasting description was used throughout the tastings with confidence. He recalls an exhibition at The Scotch Malt Whisky Society on Edinburgh’s Queen Street, filled with artefacts in Perspex boxes, including pairs of trainers and boxing gloves – all objects used as descriptors for whisky.

“I like that about whisky – if you like it, you can wax lyrical about it, but your description will be completely different to someone else’s” Athough Drew is loyal to Lindores’ history, there were two routes he could have gone down in the renewal of the abbey. One option was to spend half the amount of money, and to turn Lindores into a ‘Disneyland for whisky’ – in which the quality of the whisky itself was secondary. However, Smith felt honour bound to produce whisky that would match the heritage, as the ‘spiritual home of Scottish whisky’ carries a great weight of expectation.

“It doesn’t matter if you’ve got Friar John Corr floating around in the corner, they don’t know that because it’s a blind tasting – so we’re pleased when the spirit is matching up to that” Their current website is heavy with history, but Lindores is stating its claim as a proper, grown-up whisky company. The history certainly won’t be going anywhere, but Drew wants to steer the conversation toward the distillery’s single malt and cask finishes, becoming decidedly more whisky-focused from here on in. Lindores has certainly put in the work, coming at distilling from both scientific and creative angles.

As a throwback to the site’s origin story (and to avoid producing overcompetitive gin), Lindores’ Aqua Vitae

– a spiced, citrus botanical spirit infused herbaceously with Douglas fir and sweet cicely – was initially produced as an experiment with PhD students at Heriot-Watt University, using the same techniques monks would have used over 500 years ago. However, there is an important balance to strike between historical accuracy and drinkability (‘and not making you blind,’ Drew quips) – the taste was like paint. After taking the beverage as far as they could with the students, they moved on to the cool mixologists of the bar world in Edinburgh, introducing dates and raisins to add sweetness and, unexpectedly, turning the spirit amber in colour.

Wanting to expand their audience to the younger generation, Lindores Abbey has opened their Legacy Bar, in which guests can enjoy an array of Aqua Vitae cocktails and drams. Outside of Scandinavia, Aqua Vitae is not typically consumed neat, so it is recommended to use the spirit as a replacement for whisky or bourbon in a cocktail, such as an Old Fashioned. The Legacy Bar’s most popular drink being their version of a perfect serve – Aqua Vitae, ginger ale, ice, and a twist of orange “If you thought about putting coke or ice in it, you would’ve been shot” Drew celebrates the modern route the whisky industry is headed, shedding the outdated notion of the ‘crusty old curdle’ that must be matured for at least ten years.

The way to keep fresh is to break into a younger market, to feed the millennial drive for exploration. Consumers don’t just want to go for a traditional brand, but are looking for new experiences in whisky and other spirits – they want the story, the origin. Lindores has it all – their barley comes from within half a mile of the distillery, while the water is drawn from a borehole nearby, the same source used in 1494.

“The thing with Lindores, it’s hard to really get it unless you’ve been here” Lindores Abbey is certainly a pilgrimage for whisky lovers of all descriptions. There is a story to be told, and experience to be had at their brand-new distillery.

Maintaining the iconic structure and character of the old historic buildings, the distillery is made fresh with bright, local wood and glass panels. It is an attraction for young and old alike, whether one wishes to delve into its unique history, or experience something new. Drew McKenzie Smith has taken on this challenge of renewal with gusto, and it seems the hard work has paid off. lindoresabbeydistillery.com @lindoresabbeydistillery

IN THE NEXT ISSUE

A FOCUS ON AMERICAN WHISKIES

Issue Two will have a focus on the distilleries and whiskies of America - such an exciting country with an eclectic range of spirit being produced.

David visits Speyside in Scotland, reporting on his trip with distillery profiles, inteviews and films.

Plus columns and articles from some of your favourite instagram accounts.

Subscribe for free at clandestine-whisky.com

I recently spoke with Niko Devlin about the whisky scene in Australia The whisky scene in Australia seems to be very vibrant.

Are there many new distilleries waiting for their casks to age, compared to how many that are already bottling?

While the roots of distillation can be traced back to the first European settler’s we’re in the midst of a spirits boom in Australia with over 400 registered distilleries, around 100 of those are whisky distilleries, in various stages of production, the vast majority of those starting up in the past 7yrs, so a lot of whisky still aging.

That said we have a great library of Australian whiskies being added to almost daily, exciting times!

Your Facebook and Instagram community has really grown since you started 7 years ago. What do you attribute this too?

The Australian Whisky Appreciation Society is really the heart of the whisky community down here, being the largest group of its kind (on Facebook in Australia).

AWAS is a place to discuss all things whisky related with a focus on the local scene. Many of the distillers & industry are members, they get involved in the community answering questions & sharing their stories.

We are also an independent bottler giving our members exclusive access to premium whiskies hand selected by the AWAS tasting panel.

How have you helped Australian distilleries and what is your proudest achievement?

My proudest achievement is The Australian Whisky Awards, its really at the heart of what i want to achieve in the industry, giving Australian whiskies, their makers & all the amazing people involved in the industry the recognition they deserve for producing some of the best whiskies on the planet. The Inaugural event was held in March to great success & we’re looking forward to our next event, announcement coming soon.

Are there any regional styles in Australia?

We are still really defining our regions here as more producers come online.

Where do you see Australian whisky in 5 and 10 years time?

Hopefully in a similar position to the local wine industry, perhaps those regional styles have taken shape & we see more distilleries at export levels of production.

What is the most challenging issue facing Australian whisky?

In a word, tax. We face one of the most punitive spirits taxation regime’s on the planet, that coupled with very limited support form the government, if we had an even playing field with the wine & beer industries we’d grow in leaps & bounds With such a established wine scene, are a number of distilleries using old wine casks, and in particular old dessert wine barrels from Rutherglen?

We’re very lucky to have some exceptional cask stock available to us, many distilleries use local ex wine casks giving Australian whiskies a lot of character. Morris Rutherglen is one of a small handful of wineries that also distil, they have a Muscat cask whisky available.

If someone was visiting Australian, would it be easy, given the vast size of the country to make up a whisky trail?.

Tasmania has an established whisky trail, Victoria & NSW are still emerging, with clusters in Sydney, Melbourne & some rural areas. Other states have some amazing distilleries that are more spread out, but still worth the visit.

Do Australian distilleries typically make their own style of whisky or are they emulating Scotland or Bourbon in their mash bill?

We are mostly influenced by the Scottish style of whisky with some Bourbon styles available too. With the current incarnation of the industry still fairly young in whisky terms (there are many bottles of Scotch older than our oldest functioning distilleries) its taking us time to develop our own mash bills. In time we will see a truly Aussie Whisky style develop as our stocks age.

Innovation is happening now, but it will take time to see those drams fill glasses What are the top 5 most exciting new distilleries in Australia?

Tough call narrowing it down to 5 but here goes Highwayman Distillery Black Gate Distillery Killara Distillery Fleurieu Distillery Archie Rose Distilling Co. www.awas.com.au

SCIENCE, ART & CRAFT

Visiting

Teeling Whiskey Irish Whiskey is going through a resurgence of late and leading the charge is Teeling Whiskey.

Located in the the Liberties area of Dublin, just a short walk from the tourist hot spot of Temple Bar, it is not afraid to experiment and be different.

walk heading southwest from the tourist mecca and wallet-busting Temple Bar. Historically a working-class area, it is steeped in history, most famously for being home to Guinness, which attracts an extraordinary amount of visitors each year. Teeling does not have a barrel warehouse here though, not only due to space restrictions, but the fire hazard Words and Photographs by David Pearce it presents. James, my guide for the visit, pointed out that traditionally wet horse manure was used to extinguish frequent The resurgence of Irish Whiskey fires which occurred. The Liberties is my sort of place - real pubs with decent Twice. The number of times I thought I had been to Guinness, and fairly priced. An absence Dublin previously, but I was wrong. I have a habit of of tourists taking selfies every minute, that. Having been a wine merchant and writer for many leaving the Dubliners to enjoy a pint in years, I am convinced the cranial sub-section of my peace. Except for this tourist... brain containing memory has diminished over time. Does anyone else feel the same? I was telling a friend about my Teeling may have reopened in 2015, trip, and how it was only my second trip to Ireland, when but their history dates back to they reminded me of a wedding I had photographed there.

1782, when Walter Teeling set up It took a few minutes of ruminating and navigating the a small craft distillery nearby on passages of my memory, but recollections started to resurface Marrowbone Lane. Resurrecting slowly, until I could even recall the name of the restaurant the a family business, however, does reception was held at. What I don’t recall are the bride and not have to mean paying homage grooms’ names or visiting any distilleries, which is such a shame! to historic relevance and working in age old practices. In fact, Teeling Whisky is located in the Liberties area of Dublin, a short Stephen and Jack Teeling have

“The grain is all milled on site which is fantastic for tours.”

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expressions. Using three Pot Stills, made by the historic Italian firm Frili (established in 1912), who are renowned historically for making stills for Grappa production. By design, they are modelled after the traditional Dublin stills that would have dominated the city distilleries of the past. The sizes are 15,000L, 10,000L and 9,000L. If you are wondering, the different sizes is due to reducing the amount of liquid each time they run the still. They start with 30,000L of wash at about 8% ABV. This is run through the first still twice to create enough liquid to fill the second still, with the maxiAlex Chasko was their very first employee, a master mum amount of water left behind (known distiller and blender from Portland, Oregon. Portland as Pot Ale) each time. At the end of the run is known for having more breweries than any other through the three stills approximately 2,500 city on earth (at the last count, seventy). That means LPA’s (liquid pure alcohol) from 30,000 serious competition, and those that stand still will litres of 8% wash is left. lose. Being on the West Coast of the USA, you may be inclined to think that the beer scene is relatively The stills are named after Jack Teeling’s new, but in fact, the first brewery here was Henry daughters, Alyson, Natalie and Rebecca, Saxer’s “Liberty Brewery” in Portland, established and the spirit is double or triple distilled.

1852. Alex found himself in Ireland, having married an It is interesting to note that the stills are Irish lady, and was aware of the emerging buzz around non-operational for 2 weeks a year whilst Irish Whiskey and wanted to be part of it. A meeting they are serviced and cleaned. with Jack in 2012 highlighted how aligned their vision was and the rest is history.

Prior to the stills being used, of course, is the milling of the grain. Teeling use And history is exactly what Teeling are making. Being a a variable wet mill. This mill is a lot veteran of hundreds safer to use as it soaks the grain in upon hundreds of water before milling enabling visitors vineyard visits as a to experience all of the sounds and wine author, I have visuals of our production process (if heard every sales pitch running at the time or course). It also imaginable, but the has the added benefit of being highly ones that stand out flexible on the type of grain that it don’t sing their own can process, meaning they can create praises, instead proving many different varieties of spirit. relevant context whilst letting their product do Once milled, the grain goes into the talking. This was the one of two Oregon Pine fermenters case with Jack, who was a pot still full of knowledge. Tasting (15,000L in size) or a larger 30,000L through the range, not once did he say how good a whiskey stainless steel fermenter. The water was, confident in their inherent quality. Sometimes an amis drawn from their own well from bassador can seem bored, it might be their tenth press visit of the Dublin aquifer and is treated the week, but James was perfectly enthusiastic, even popping on site at the distillery. Using both off to his office to get a dram of something interesting that he types allows Teeling to combine was genuinely excited to show me. both modern techniques with traditional methods. The wooden I love alcohol, not just for the buzz, but primarily the variety fermenters generate their own and abundance of flavours in all sectors, be it whiskey, beer, or bacteria & yeast culture, which wine. There is a new taste waiting to be discovered and enimparts unique flavours to the joyed. Am I analytical? I certainly used to be, but these days it batch early on in the production has as much to do with how a drink makes me feel, if it makes process. However, the wooden me smile, if I want to go back for more, or move on to the next, fermenters are not as efficient that is just as important. as the closed stainless steel.

The best way to think of it is For me, Teeling is the dream distillery, it is not afraid to innothe wooden fermenters maxvate, be bold, challenge our palates, and release a multitude of done the opposite, creating a modern distillery which produces whiskey in small batches with innovative cask maturations and a young team.

As you head toward the distillery from Temple Bar, walking alongside the Liffey, which runs for 82 miles before flowing into Dublin Bay, you feel you are heading in the wrong direction. Yet, there is a sense the distillery is close by, evidenced by the Teeling-branded barrels the pubs are using outside as tables. A fantastic marketing move that also upcycles. I like it.

“A big hitter for the money with an explosion of flavour”

a big hitter for the money with a n explosion of flavour

imise flavour while the stainless steel allows them to get up to the 8% abv required. The wooden fermenters take approximately one day, whilst in the steel it is two to three days.

Once distilled, the spirit is aged in ex-bourbon casks to make small batches of individual whiskey. As you would expect, not all is bottled immediately with some receiving further maturation and finishing in rum casks. Rum can be as diverse as whiskey, with a multitude of countries producing it, so there is no shortage of casks to offer a plethora of choices. This all contributes to the excitement of Teeling.

The majority of whisky in the range is bottled at 46%. This is not a decision made by accountants (cask strength whisky is watered down to the desired strength usually), but through tasting panels. The panels were given Teeling in a range from 38% (not legally whiskey) upwards. It was found that the sweet spot was 46% so that is what they have stuck with. I love this choice putting consumer preferences first.

With the Small Batch Rum Cask priced at only 35 euro, it is a big hitter for the money with an explosion of flavour. Grain and malt whiskeys are aged separately in a 3:1 proportion respectively, before finishing in ex-rum casks for up to 12 months. This gives a beautiful aroma of dried dark fruits.

blending would have been a highly skilled job, and one that has been accomplished well.

What you have to try, of course, is the Pot Still, which I immediately felt would be the one in the range best suited to accompanying food. It is triple distilled, with a mash bill of 50% malted and 50% unmalted barley. It is then aged in American virgin oak, bourbon and sherry casks, giving it a unique style and flavour.

Blackpitts is Teeling’s peated single malt. The name derives from an area just behind the distillery, historically home to a number of barley malting houses. This whisky has undergone three distillations, which breaks down the salt/ iodine, and clearly differentiates it from those made in Islay. Inoculation takes place with with white wine yeasts and aging in bourbon and Sauterne casks. This really is a barbecue in a glass, with the smoke slowly building and adding complexity to the whiskey. The peat is bought in from Scotland at 55ppm (parts per million) but after distillation, it is 15ppm.

If you are in Dublin and visit the distillery you may get lucky, as John Teeling (the founders’ father) comes into the distillery quite a lot.

He will regularly start the tour giving a whole breakdown on the history of the family, along with a great background of the entire Irish Whiskey industry & History. This usually delays the rest of the tours for the day, but it’s certainly worth it for what he brings to the experience.

The wooden fermenters maximise the flavour of the whiskey

The Single Grain 13 is also worth searching out. It has 95% corn and 5% barley in the mash bill, with the corn coming from France - although it can be grown in Ireland, it is not of the industrial grade needed. It is a step up from the perfectly acceptable standard Single Grain but more flavourfully complex with morello cherries, vanilla and coffee showing through with good length. It has been aged in barrels from California which previously held Cabernet Sauvignon. For me, the barrels are an inspired choice as they counter and balance the sweetness of the corn.

The Single Malt shows waxy citrus fruits, aged in a mixture of white wine, bourbon, madeira and port casks with some 20-year sherry cask added to the blend. Its average age is twelve to thirteen years. With the variety of casks used,

teelingwhiskey.com @teeling_whiskey

Mini Queen

Spotlight on @the_whisky_wench

Sara was the first instagram friend that I met in real life. I was travelling past where she lived so asked if I could pop in and say hello. Luckily she said yes and we had a great time chatting whisky and taking some photos.

Sara is the queen of miniatures and posts on daily with comprehensive notes and her opinion. @the_whisky_wench

The birthplace of Ameican Whiskey

CATOCTIN CREEK MAKING RYE WHISKEY AS IT USED TO BE

CATOCTIN CREEK AN INTRODUCTION Sometimes you kick yourself. I am currently researching Catoctin Creek for this article and discovered that it is no more than twenty-five minutes from my close friend, Heather, in Sterling, Virginia. I have visited many times, but she has never taken me there. Naturally, I immediately sent a text saying this has to be remedied ASAP, as we are both heavily into food, whisky and wine.

Located on Main Street, Purcellville, Loudoun County in Virginia, it is surrounded by lush plains intersected by rivers which flow through the rolling hills which emanate from the mountains in the distance. It is said that Virginia is the birthplace of American Whiskey, with ships having been sent to North America in 1606 by King James I of England, to establish a permanent settlement.

The London Company had created a permanent colony at Jamestown on the Chesapeake Bay by 1607. Local farms using small pot stills (essentially domestic size) started to craft whisky using local grain (rye) for the sale to the local residents, who would ride by and pick up a bottle. I love this picture in my mind!

Catoctin Creek, pronounced KaTock-Tin, was the first distillery in the county to open once prohibition ended. Respecting historic methods, it was decided to use pre-prohibition techniques in the production. Today, the owners, Scott and Becky Harris, continue in this vein but utilize modern technology to produce their range of whiskies. In fact, they have recently

invested over $1m in new equipment (including six fermenters) tripling their production capability. It was two years in the planning and took 3 weeks to install, the process well documented on their Instagram. catoctincreekdistilling.com @catoctincreek

CATOCTIN CREEK David Pearce of Clandestine Whisky Magazine chats to Scott Harris of chief distiller at Catoctin Creek Distilling Company in Purceville, Virginia, USA on the birthplace of American whiskey, the unknown historic popularity of rye and community spirit.

Transcribed and written by Annie Bowles.

‘I want this, this is what I want to do,’ exclaimed Scott Harris, arms spread, on a visit to Bushmill Distillery in Northern Ireland. It was when visiting the distillery with his wife, Becky, as tourists gazing at the pot stills in the huge facility, that Scott decided to make a change from his white-collar desk job and begin his own whisky production.

However, Scott’s wife, Becky, who is now the chief distiller at Catocin, brought the fantasy back to reality. Having graduated with a degree in chemical engineering, Becky would be able to produce the whisky itself, Scott imagined. Becky could make the whiskey, but asked of her husband, ‘But can you make money making whiskey?’ She implored that Scott write up a strategic business plan and prove that this would be a profitable business venture. Each one of the fifty states in the US has a different set of laws on the selling of whisky. Thus, it was not a proposition to be taken lightly.

Scott took up the challenge – he convinced Becky that his business plan was feasible.

They gathered all their life savings from the past twenty years and took it to the bank. This was in 2008, during the economic recession, so they expected the banks to refuse them.

Shockingly, their loan of $250,000 was approved – now they actually had to do it.

Initially starting in a small warehouse with one pot still and one mash tank, their first distilling production was not much bigger than an American moonshine operation.

In 2009, there were only nine distilleries in Virginia – now there are around seventy. It was a local community bank that lent the Harrises their start-up loan. The success they achieved opened up opportunities for other distilleries to begin from initial bank loans. Rather than a faceless multinational bank, the locals are able

to talk to people who live within the community.

Distillation started in January 2010, producing gin and moonshine as well as rye whiskey. Before any products could be sold, they had to be listed in Virginia ABC (Alcoholic Beverage Control Authority). At the time, Catocin Creek’s whiskey had only been barrelled for six weeks, but they had to be taken and tried. Another shock – to their surprise, the agency called back and said they wanted it.

In Virginia, there are limited opportunities to get products on the shelves – if the Harrises didn’t take this shot, they would have run out of cash.

The whiskey they sold was a month and a half old, ‘brown and tasty’, says Harris, and good enough to sell. As time passed, the whiskey aged to a point where Harris was pleased with it, bagging multiple awards. The youth of the whiskey in the early batches was out of pure necessity, and in November they were able to get their gin on the shelves, which greatly improved cash flow.

History is an important part of the Catocin Creek story, and Scott certainly knows his stuff – Virginia being the birthplace of American whiskey. The first permanent English settlement was in Jamestown in 1607, where colonist George Thorpe started producing whiskey there immediately. For nearly 175 years, rye whiskey was the ‘King of Whiskey’ in Virginia, dominating the mid-Atlantic – Maryland, Pennsylvania, spreading into New York, while down in the southern states consumers were drinking products like peach brandy. However, in 1776, the American Revolutionary War meant that King George III cut off supply of molasses, sugar cane and rum to the young country, rum being the predominant spirit of the time. Rye whiskey therefore had a tenfold production increase in a decade and became the number one whiskey in America throughout the 19th century. This was a key time for popularity as new cocktails, such as the Manhattan, were being developed – rye whiskey being a prime ingredient in all of them.

According to Scott , if you were drinking whiskey in Washington DC, Philadelphia, New York City, it would have been rye, not bourbon. He claims no one knew this crucial part of whiskey history in

the US in 2009 – that is the story he wants to tell with Catocin Creek, which is true Virginia-style rye whiskey, using local grain, barrels, and water.

The barrels used are made from oak from Virginia and Minnesota, where the wood is surprisingly similar, despite the distance and difference in climate. The northern wood is different to where most whiskey wood comes from, as Missouri provides for big names like Jack Daniels and Jim Beam. The Minnesotan wood’s tighter grain provides a different flavour profile, with a softness interlaced with caramel, vanilla, and toasted nuts.

As the barrels contribute half of the flavour to the product, Scott is particularly choosy about this key ingredient.

As newbies in the whiskey industry, Scott and Becky Harris had a lot to learn, and a lot of support. In the early days, they needed to run something through their pot still for the first time, not having the time necessary to make a rye mash. Local winemaker Doug Fabioli came to their rescue – with fifty gallons of pear wine. He stayed for the entire six hours of distillation, and when Harris wanted to pay him for his generous contribution, he said, ‘Scott, I don’t want you to pay me a single dollar – I just want to work with you for twenty years,’ Scott recalls, citing the moment as the hallmark of the wonderful relationships forged within the whiskey industry.

After expanding from their tiny warehouse, Catocin Creek Distillery is now producing in an ex-car showroom in the main street of their little town of Purceville. It’s an historic building, built in 1921 – an interesting time for a modern distillery, as it was the first full year of prohibition in the US. A time of great change, the building would have been selling cars when people were still using horse and carriages. Harris loved the history of the place, and feels that it’s fitting that the space is being repurposed as an industrial distillery, keeping in character with the historic nature of the building.

Now, Catocin has had a complete revamping of their equipment, costing another million dollars – their original pot still, mash tank and six fermenters all went to a new distillery in West Virginia, making room in the building for their

new 2000L pot still, mash tank and fermenters.

Scott reports that they are very pleased with their new make spirit; their new system was custom built to be as close as possible to the original, just producing to a larger capacity – however it will take years to hone in on perfection.

Their flagship line is their Roundstone Rye, which is a Virginia rye whiskey in the style of the 1800s, potstilled using local grain and virgin wood barrels. Unlike whisky from Scotland, the virgin wood and the hot Virginia climate impacts the whiskey heavily, which imparts a lot of wood flavor and color into the whisky. Catoctin uses a new cask every single time, which is the law for all whiskey in the United States. That process puts the fresh wood flavor into the whiskey consistently. The Roundstone Rye is aged for a minimum of two years, whilst the Rabble Rouser product, which is bottled-in-bond, starts out at four years and older.

As well as expanding financial opportunities for local Virginian distilleries, Becky Harris has her own project, Step Up, an organisation which helps young people from disadvantaged communities get into craft distilling. The distillery also has a free bottling workshop for thirty people per month, which the local people love. Catocin Creek not only hails back to history, but provides opportunities to expand and grow the whiskey industry in the present, for the future.

Click to watch our video interview

IAN ROBINSON

For The Love of Sherry @POSHSCOTCH

SHERRY REMAINS DEEPLY UNFASHIONABLE AMONGST BRITISH (AND PRESUMABLY MANY OTHER NATIONS’) DRINKERS. I HAD SOME FRIENDS ROUND FOR DINNER RECENTLY, AND OFFERED SOME SHERRY AS A DIGESTIF. THEY LOOKED AT ME LIKE I HAD JUST SUFFERED A STROKE. I THEN MADE THE MISTAKE OF TELLING THEM THIS WAS A 30-YEAR-OLD PALO CORTADO FROM ONE OF THE FINEST BODEGAS. THEY DEFINITELY THOUGHT I HAD JUST HAD A STROKE BY THIS POINT! These friends weren’t particularly whisky drinkers, but it’s a viewpoint that I see time and time again. Whether it’s the more casual drinker, the whisky enthusiast, or the speculator, darker is “better” for so many people right now when it comes to their whisky. Yet I can almost guarantee that 90% of these people say they don’t or won’t drink sherry. A similar number don’t care about how that colour was imparted. Even fewer start to think about the provenance of the cask. Drinkers of

2021 seemingly look more for colour, rather than flavour, and there seems to be a shrug of the shoulders even from the distilleries themselves when questioned about how their casks came to be in their possession. The standard response is generally somewhere between mumbling around “our finest oak” (really bad) to “sourced from the finest Bodegas in Jerez” (not much better). This romanticising may have worked a decade or more ago, but when whisky producers themselves are pushing terroir, sustainability and production details, this lack of transparency is no longer sufficient, especially if one is to believe the old tour guide adage of “80% of the flavour comes from the cask”. Whether that statistic is true or not, why tell me about how much longer your fermentation times are, why the shape of the stills affects the flavour, or the exact PPM when you won’t tell me what you’ve then stored the whisky in or why?

Most whisky enthusiasts are aware that the practice of using “transport casks” stopped back in the 80s, when Spanish legislation changed, meaning that the bottling of the sherry had to be done on the Iberian peninsular rather than the intended sales destination. Afficionados will be further aware that as a result of this (and the decreasing popularity of sherry in Europe, which in Britain is still really seen as your nan’s drink) that the overall supply of casks (pun intended) dried up. As a result, you now increasingly see the term “sherry seasoned”, whilst some distilleries, like The Macallan, took matters into their own hands and have even opened their own Bodega to craft their casks to their own specification.

I have three problems with the sentiments above. The first is actually with the Twitterati, who sit and moan about these seasoned casks. Given the circumstances I’ve described above, we don’t have very much choice in the whisky world. Remaining transport casks will be nearly 40 years old (or more!) by this point and inevitably the majority will have been retired, whilst those that remain have been used to within an inch of their lives. “So why not use solera casks?” reply the keyboard warriors. Well, these casks were never really historically used for whisky anyway. With the way the solera system works, by the time a cask was ready to retire, it was knackered wood.

Putting whisky in it would be a risk – it could be leaky or leave the spirit green. Whilst that’s generalisation, the few quality casks that are taken out to be resold to distilleries

(PHOTO)

are ferociously expensive as a result. There’s simply neither sufficient quality sherry production nor enough casks to go round as whisky production (and the desire for darker whisky) has increased exponentially, whilst sherry remains in the doldrums. These people want quality casks but there seems to be a lack of understanding about how to go about this.

I can blame the drinkers, but, secondly, it’s the lack of transparency shown by distilleries. I appreciate there are a myriad of legal and business decisions involved in cask procurement, even apart from the fact that casks are often traded across distilleries, whilst sourcing approaches also vary, with some distilleries buying from multiple bodegas or even cask brokers. With wine casks, for example, the contracts normally state that the vineyard (and sometimes even the varietal) cannot be named. However, distilleries have often found workarounds in this area, such as Bruichladdich, who tend to use abbreviations, for example.

So, when they released their Port Charlotte MRC, and announced it was from a famous Premier Cru winery, it’s not too hard to guess where the casks were sourced from…

But, when Macallan have their own bodega, why hide behind the “sherry seasoned” wording? Surely you know everything, nor would there be a legal nor commercial impediment to displaying the information. It strikes me as a choice rather than anything else. Many distilleries don’t even hint at the sherry types involved, so the drinkers presume Oloroso. But how long was the sherry in the wood? A year? 3 years? Longer? What was the quality of the liquid?

Will it actually be bottled for drinking, or was it vinegar, or even just dumping quality? Was the cask brought back to Scotland whole (i.e. wet, with a bit of liquid left inside), or was it broken down into staves and re-coopered? Was it re-charred before use? I appreciate that answering all these questions would likely take up the whole box and not leave space for any marketing blurb, but it wouldn’t be too hard to land up at a compromise solution where the whisky fan gets more information than current.

The SWA could mandate that the type(s) of sherry (or a simple cask breakdown for vattings or finishes like Balvenie Doublewood) used are documented somewhere on the box or label. This wouldn’t take up a lot of space, with even the aforementioned dram changing its current labelling to something like “A rich and complex dram achieved by a decade in traditional whisky casks, followed by a secondary maturation of two years in a combination of fresh and refill oloroso sherry casks”. Personally, I’d like to see even more information, where feasible and possible. Glendronach Revival and Parliament, for example, is matured in both Oloroso and PX casks. It would be great to know that the 2021 batch was, say, 15 oloroso refill hogsheads, 5 fresh oloroso butts, and 8 fresh PX butts. The geekiest of us like to compare batches, and this kind of information would be extremely helpful in helping determine batch variation. I think that the SWA actively work against innovation here with the current rules. The Balvenie Tun series, for example, is a NAS whisky, and some people won’t buy it because

of the price and that fact. But look at the back and it’s one of the most generous whiskies you can buy in terms of the information offered up by the distillery.

Thirdly, it’s the continued disdain for sherry amongst the people that continue to demand ever more sherried whisky for their collections. This was made very clear to me in a recent post where I shot the latest Bimber x Selfridges collaboration. This was a whisky finished in a Gonzalez Byass Palo Cortado cask which had been filled in 2010, and sold as a package so that people could try both the whisky and the sherry. Numerous comments asked why I had bothered to buy the sherry, and basically decried it as a waste of time. Well, firstly, without that sherry, the whisky wouldn’t exist. Secondly, with the current climate crisis, the energy and effort that went into crafting that sherry should not be wasted. Some people seem to think that sherry is almost a surplus product of the whisky-making process and there is no harm in discarding it. But at the end of the day, we are contributing to emissions by felling oak trees for their wood, farming the grapes intensively, and in the production process.

Those casks then need to be shipped all the way to Scotland, and it’s irresponsible to neither consider the craft nor the impact.

Personally, I think Bimber should be applauded for their collaborative approach, and I would love to see further releases both in that series, and similar attempts from other whisky producers. Bunnahabhain (and the wider Distell family) are also worth mentioning, because they highlight many different kinds of sherry casks in their annual special releases and Warehouse 9 bottlings. A small subset of these releases even highlight specific sherries, with a PX Noe and a Canasta Butt maturation helping identify the exact cask type and bodega used. A recent WH9 set even highlighted the influence of Oloroso over time on whisky, whilst Facebook tastings through the Bunnahabhain Appreciation Society have included sherries as part of the set. So, it’s great to see these companies really highlighting sherry, and the casks they use, even if they are an unfortunately small percentage of the overall market.

I strongly believe that Sherry is nearly as versatile a wine as whisky is a spirit, and for those of us that love a sherry bomb, it would be remiss of us to neither drink more sherry (of course in a responsible way) nor to demand more transparency about the casks our whisky are matured in. Sherry is a delicious tipple in its own right, and the best way to go about ensuring that casks are available for whisky is to ensure that the sherry industry itself is well supported. So, please join me in raising a glass to the sherry producers of Jerez, and to all they do to help create the spirit we all love.

You can folllow Ian on Instagram at @poshscotch

Jane Overeem - Overeem Distillery Owner Icons of Whisky Australian Distillery Manager of the Year

Born of Promise...

Over two decades ago, Tasmanian whisky pioneer Casey Overeem made a promise to create an exceptional Single Malt Whisky that would stand alongside the best whiskies of the world.

Casey founded the Overeem Distillery in 2007 and released the first Overeem Single Malt Whisky in 2011. His first distilling experience in Norway in the 1980’s fueled his passion, and following years of research and experimentation, his ambitious quest to create a worldclass whisky began. A meticulous and precise craftsman with a keen eye for detail, Casey practiced patience and precision throughout all aspects of the distillery.

Casey's daughter Jane, has been involved in the family business since the early years. Now, she and her husband Mark have taken over the family business, continuing Casey’s legacy and following the practices and principles on which Overeem Distillery was founded.

Overeem Single Malt Whisky is made from the finest ingredients Tasmania has to offer, with barley to rival the best in the world and water recognised as the cleanest.

Every bottle of Overeem Single Malt Whisky is meticulously hand-crafted through patience and precision.

Slow and measured production techniques and purpose-built barrel stores where the spirit gently develops over time, results in layers of subtle, yet complex and delicate flavours awaiting the appreciative palate.

Released exclusively as single cask, every bottle of Overeem Whisky can be identified by its unique cask and bottle number to ensure its authenticity.

"If you see it, buy it" Jim Murray.

The Whisky Bible To find out more about this beautiful Single Malt Whisky, visit overeemwhisky.com

Meticulously hand-crafted.

Tasmanian Single Malt Whisky from one of Australia's founding distilleries.

OVEREEMWHISKY.COM

Maid of the Malt @maidofthemalt

I chat with Ainsleigh about her whisky journey so far.

What got you into whisky?

The answer to this question is not necessarily what got me into whisky, but rather, who. Being originally from Scotland, whisky has always been something I was ‘aware’ of, from a young age. In fact, I visited my first distillery (Ben Nevis) at the ripe old age of three, with my Father and Grandpa. So, in a sense, I accredit my relationship with whisky to my Father, Grandpa Hendry, and Granda George. Having said that, the whisky which truly captivated my attention was Dalwhinnie’s 15 Year Old Highland Single Malt, which I first sipped during a tasting at the distillery, in 2017.

You have a particular affinity for Islay - why is this?

If you had told me 18 months ago I would find myself on Islay, loving every dram I had the opportunity of tasting, I would never have believed you! Laphroaig was the first Islay whisky I imbibed years ago, and unfortunately it tainted my perspective on what Islay has to offer - I’m not going to lie, those heavily peated and medicinal notes scared me off. Fast-forward a couple of years, I received a sample of Lagavulin 16 in late 2018, and that’s when I came to the realisation that perhaps I should give Islay another go, and well, here we are! I find it so interesting how your palate evolves, over time.

What is your stand out dram from Islay and why?

Though Lagavulin was the first Islay distillery to pique my interest, I’d have to say that Ardbeg stole my heart.

Picking only one “stand out dram” from Islay is a near impossible feat, but, I would have to say Ardbeg’s Corryvreckan is the one. Why? It’s just too bloody good! To paraphrase my tasting notes on Instagram, “a sprinkling of demarara on freshly paved tarmac”, “soot covered raisins”, “heavily smoked and charred meats”, “peat and creosote are accompanied by ripe plums”, and “tangy Branston Pickle with extra mature Cathedral City cheddar on a buttered Hob Nob biscuit”.

How does that take your fancy?

How much do you think your location, company and time of years contributes to your enjoyment of whisky?

Personally, I do believe that your surroundings can have an impact on your imbibing experience, but not necessarily all the time. Whether it’s enjoying a maritime influenced malt at the beach, sat around a bonfire with your closest friends and family, or, wrapped up in a blanket cooried in on the couch on a dreich evening, with a wee hauf, bar of chocolate, and a good film... You can’t go wrong!

What is your dream job and why?

Dream job; a position which allows me the freedom of traveling the world to experience and learn about

different cultures, foods, and beverages. As I’m sure you can imagine, I would absolutely LOVE a role, within the Whisky Industry.

What do you not like about he whisky industry?

As a woman, I would say that there are times where I am far less likely to be taken as seriously as others due to my age, appearance, and gender. Though many distilleries are putting in the effort to be more inclusive, the female demographic is a huge market, which I genuinely believe remains vastly untouched. Most recently, I asked a male barman which Single Malts were available on the back-bar, unfortunately, I was scoffed at and told “Bulleit, or Makers”...

You recently ate at the Lalique restaurant at Glenturret on a visit to Scotland. Tell us about that experience.

Glenturret Lalique - where do I even start? I would need a whole magazine to truly do it justice! Glenturret wasn’t a distillery I was all that familiar with up until February 2020, but I cannot emphasize enough how much of a fan I have become, since. Managing Director, John Laurie, first toured me around the facilities, long before the restaurant came to be, and I am so grateful I got to see first-hand, the stunning transformation.

Lalique’s dining room is immaculate, a room of spectacular opulence, which is only enhanced by their exquisite haute cuisine and premium refreshments.

Their entire lunch menu was a “must have”. A few highlights for myself would include; fresh Oysters with a Kipper Vinaigrette, the decadent Orkney Scallop entrée, and sampling their magnificent Jaguar E-Type Release single malt. I have been daydreaming about my unforgettable experience, for weeks!

What was the best tasting you have ever been too?

Ardbeg Distillery, in October 2021. To be honest, I was a bit overwhelmed by the whole experience, it was just absolutely incredible. Tasting Wee Beastie straight from the barrel unfiltered and cask strength, and sipping on a sample pulled that morning for my arrival, from a 2012 Côte-Rôtie red wine cask - remarkable.

Do you have any fun whisky stories?

Honestly, there are too many! One of my favourites might be a Zoom event back in 2020 with Ardbeg and fellow Ardbegians from across Canada, in celebration of the launch of Wee Beastie. We were asked if we had any tasting notes to share, and so I said “a roll and square sausage with brown sauce”, which apparently caught the attention of Dr. Bill Lumsden, and was one of his favourite notes, from the tasting! I am patiently waiting for that to be printed on their labels and packaging, for Wee Beastie..., haha!

One to drink One to collect dust What is your go to whisky cocktail?

It has to be the Whiskey Sour, without a doubt!

What will your next purchase be and why?

I have a few “unicorns” in mind, but we’ll see how the stars align for those. I’ve actually got a very special bottle that I am SO excited to share with everyone, closer to Christmas!

Do you collect as well as drink?

Since 2011, long before my own whisky journey, I have been purchasing bottles for my Father and his personal collection, at nearly every distillery I have visited. Nowadays, I am a firm believer in the “buy two” method (when attainable): one to drink, and one to collect dust.., or open when the other is done, because it was just too good! This year, I acquired a 1966 Auchentoshan, which I plan on holding on to for a good while!

Finally, who are your 5 dream guests if you could take them to a whisky related dinner?

For a whisky industry related event, I would love to be in the company of Dr. Bill Lumsden, Louise McGuane, John Laurie, Rachel Barrie, and Becky Paskin.

You can follow Ainsleigh on Instagram here.

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BREAKING NEW GROUND

Arbikie:

RYE(SING) ABOVE THE NORM AND BUILDING THEIR OWN PATH IN SCOTLAND

Most people in the whisky community love to celebrate independent distilleries, as ultimately, I suppose, it is the dream to own one. The stumbling block being the absence of funds to facilitate that dream. Being independent does not in itself give any guarantee of quality, but it does give reassurance that they are striving for excellence. There is far too much invested not to be wise, both financially and in time management. The main issues arise in warmer climates, such as Australia, with relatively low set up costs, but the need to get whisky into the market for cash flow. The whisky may not be ready and cask management not quite mastered yet. The consumer suffers at the hands of the distillery who are still mastering their craft.

In Scotland, this is rarely the case. It is expensive to set up, but there is a plethora of master distillers and industry experts to help. They are more than happy to share their knowledge.

In writing this magazine, I have heard time and time again how friendly all the distilleries are with one another. It just seems to be the marketing teams that probably won’t go out and share a dram with a competitor. This makes Scotland just as interesting as England and Ireland in terms of new whisky distilleries. Distilleries unafraid to experiment and do things their way, within the confines of the SWA regulations. We are in an exciting time of growth and it is a wonderful moment to be a whisky enthusiast. Of course, the increase in the number of distilleries and, therefore, choice is fuelled by demand. Only at the price of, well, price. No longer can you find mature bottles at affordable prices, 12-year-

old single malts that are actually more like 21-year-old as there was so much surplus stock. New distilleries releases are more expensive than the larger, faceless brands, but that is the price of craft products. The market is willing to pay for it, so why not? I personally think core expressions from the big players are inexpensive. £25 for a 12-year-old versus £35 for a bottle of gin made last week from neutral grain spirit? You get my point.

On to Arbikie, one of the newest distilleries to release whisky. The Stirling family have been farmers for centuries in Scotland and over a drink in New York, the three brothers decided they should use their unused cattle shed to build a distillery. Their father, always keen to find ways to maximise the crops value, agreed. They could farm the crops, make the whisky, and mature it on site. All from a blank slate ensuring it was done their way. Their way happens to be gin and vodka, but more interestingly a rye whisky, the first to be made is Scotland for over a century. They are also making a single malt, but that will not be released until it is eighteen years of age. (I wonder if I can pre-order a bottle now for delivery in 2033!) The rye I tried is full of spice with notes of Christmas flavours and orange and was aged in new char American oak. Their two limited previous released expressions have been aged in PX and Oloroso casks.

Arbikies Website @arbikiedistillery

“Arbikie are trailblazing in Scotland with their Highland Rye, the first Rye whisky produced in the country for over 100 years.”

David Pearce chats to John Stirling of Arbikie Distillery in the east coast of Angus in the Highlands on ‘field to bottle’ production, sustainable farming and getting more women into whisky. Transcribed and written by Annie Bowles.

Stirling brothers John, Iain and David all grew up working on their family-owned farm on Arbikie Estate – however it was in New York City where the three brothers realised the challenging potential of producing single estate whisky.

Ironically, it was over gin and tonics when they collectively realised that this was the best idea ever, and not even the cold light of day could dim their zeal to turn their vision into a reality.

They followed the collective mantra of ‘going back to go forward’ – harvesting the potential of their farm to create a completely authentic single estate product, in which everything grown on the farm would be used to create outstanding whisky.

Their father, back in Scotland, was supportive of his sons’ entrepreneurial spirits. The farm was once a dairy farm, which hadn’t been operational for years as the family had moves onto potato and cereal crops. It was a great idea – using the local crops and land to pipe new vigour and meaning into the farm. However, the brothers needed plenty of help from the whisky industry – which was more than happy to provide. They sourced the best young distiller in the industry, Kirsty Black, who had recently graduated from HeriotWatt University in 2013 with an MSc in Brewing and Distilling. While at university, she had already created a gin in Edinburgh - a sure-fire talent. The brothers and Black planned collaboratively on how their distillery would be built from scratch.

They sourced their custom-made pot stills from Germany, and Arbikie Distillery was born.

Producing the only Scotch rye in the world, Arbikie’s focus on cultivating rye is based on the unique environment of the tempestuous coastal climate. Rye is a challenge – it is harder to grow, process and to get through the combine harvester and the still. However, the flavours from the grain make the effort worth it – Arbikie forgoes the malting process with their rye whisky, relying on the grain alone to speak for itself. Their latest Highland Rye 1794 batch is aged in a virgin oak cask, which allows the grain to take centre stage.

It reportedly boasts Christmas flavours of spiced orange, cinnamon, and stewed fruit.

Every choice is of prime importance to whisky

production at Arbikie – chief distiller Kirsty Black went through an entire process of profiling yeast for future projects. They draw their water from an underground loch, which, untreated, allows the climate to influence the taste of the whisky, resulting in each year’s batch a unique profile depending on the dry or wet season effect the fermentation and taste.

Sustainability is an incredibly significant factor to Arbikie’s choices and process. Farming runs through the blood of the Stirling family, and the brothers took this respect for the land and practices and applied it to whisky production.

Going back to go forward, they looked at what was grown on farms thirty, forty years ago and embarked on a project of growing heritage varieties, moulded by the influences of grain, water and climate. The importance of their farm to bottle ethos means Arbikie uses a GPS system to record everything on the land, from climate to soil type, everything has its influence on the finished product. They follow a seven-year crop rotation, with the interestingly increasing use of peas and legumes in the soil.

Kirsty Black leads the world in the extraction of alcohol from legumes, which contributes to sustainability as peas are naturally nitrogen carbon-fixing – they actively take carbon out of the atmosphere. Keeping grass in the rotation with the inclusion of cattle feeding creates a far better structure for the land, John Stirling claims, and therefore much more sustainable farming. This process of agricultural time-travel led to a revelation that traditional methods are far more effective for the high quality of the end product.

Stirling laments that in mass produced whiskies from larger distilleries, the most important aspect of production is yield – and thus the flavour profile is lost, bred out to make way for greater yield, and therefore greater profit. He argues that the larger, multinational companies could be doing more - keeping up with the smaller, community-based distilleries in leading the way for a healthier economy, and the drive towards sustainability. Having received so much support from the industry in the early days, he realises the importance each role plays – from the farmer to the lorry driver. Farmers switching to more profitable crops, such as wheat and grapes, he predicts will lead to a shortage of malted barley, caused by the very industry that

needs that barley.

Despite his penchant for tradition in their farming methods, Stirling wants to break away from the fusty, archaic gate-keeping around drinking whisky. The industry wants to get away from its rule-enforcing nature on how to drink whisky and embrace consumer’s differences in taste. This, Stirling claims, is how you will attract the younger generation and, importantly, women to whisky culture. Nowadays, instead of sipping a warm dram in a dusty old pub, there are fantastic cocktail bars where incredible mixologists can create the best drinks from whisky – the changing bar culture, which is more open, with more women present, will encourage the complex spirit as an easy, open choice to be drank by all.

Seeing the fruits of his family’s labour on these trendy shelves gives a great sense of achievement, confident in the knowledge of all the hard work and effort that was implemented by a whole team.

Despite their primary focus on rye, the fairly distant future holds the release of Arbikie’s first Scotch whisky in 2033, when it will be in its eighteenth year. A legacy product, created to pass from generation to generation, the Stirlings are holding out until they think it is going to be absolutely perfect. That summarises Arbikie’s approach to distilling – handcrafted with the knowledge and patience only drawn from centuries of local family farming, with a zeal for ensured quality.

Click to watch our video interview

DR. STEVE HALLER

Bottled in Bond @WHISKY_OF_LIFE

DURING THE 19TH CENTURY, WHISKEY’S POPULARITY INCREASED THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES. WHISKEY TRAVELLED FROM KENTUCKY, TENNESSEE, AND PENNSYLVANIA TO THEIR CONSUMERS. MERCHANTS MOVED THE WHISKEY IN OAK CASKS, WHICH MELLOWS THE SPIRIT AND IMPROVES THE TASTE, WHICH CONSUMERS BEGAN TO PREFER OVER THE CLEAR, UNAGED WHISKEY. DISTILLERS RECOGNIZED THE DEMAND FOR AGED SPIRITS AND SOLD THEIR PRODUCTS AS EITHER WHITE WHISKEY, OR “OLD,” TO DENOTE ITS AGED STATUS. SOME BRANDS RETAIN THIS HISTORIC LABEL, SUCH AS OLD FORRESTER, OLD TAYLOR, AND OLD GRAND-DAD. THE “OLD” IN THE NAME DID NOT DERISIVELY REFER TO THE MAN ON THE LABEL (FORRESTER, TAYLOR OR GRAND-DAD), BUT RATHER TO THE SPIRIT WITHIN THE BOTTLE.

By Dr. Steve Haller Whisky of Life dpress.com

The Age of “Rectified”Whiskey. As whiskey matures in the cask, the distiller must sit on and wait to sell their product. Some unscrupulous merchants, known as rectifiers, duped their clients by purchasing unaged spirits and adding coloring to achieve the amber hue and flavor of aged whiskey. Some of these additives were benign, like prune juice or caramel, but others were not. Tobacco spit, iodine and shoe polish made people ill as they consumed the adulterated tipple.

Legitimate distillers and merchants’ profits were being undercut by these counterfeit products, and consumers were buying dangerous and fraudulent drinks.

Bonded Whiskey. As the Civil War raged in the 1860s, the federal government needed a way to pay for the long war of attrition. Beginning on August 1, 1862 a tax on distilled spirits took effect. As distilled spirits age in oak casks there is a considerable loss of liquid between the cask’s absorption of approximately 3 gallons as it is filled, and evaporation over time.

Legitimate distillers did not want to pay tax on products they were losing, so the solution of a “bonded warehouse” was devised. After aging for a year, a tax gauger would visit the “bonded” rickhouse that stored the spirit, assess the tax that needed to be levied, and stamp the casks for which tax had been paid. Tax guagers were given a manual on how to determine evaporation rates, and if the guager believed there was less spirit in a cask than should be, the distiller still needed to pay for the projected total.

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The purity of the spirits were further aided in the last decades of the 19th century. In 1879 the law governing bonded warehouses was modified to

increase the aging period to three years, and a two lock system was established for the still house and the warehouse. One key was held by the master distiller and one was held by the gauger, so the buildings could not be opened without both the distiller and government official being present.

Finally, the introduction of machine blown glass also helped to protect the spirits within the bottles, as distillers could now fill, label and seal their product so that consumers knew with great certainty the purity of their whiskey. Prior to this, distillers would ship casks of their whiskey to merchants or rectifiers, which made it impossible for the producer to guarantee quality once the barrel was out of their hands.

The Bottled-In-Bond Act, 1897. Although these laws were enacted, rectifiers were still selling their poisonous spirits. A group of professional distillers led by Edmund Haynes Taylor of Old Taylor Bourbon fame, along with Secretary of the Treasury, John G. Carlisle worked to pass the Bottled in Bond Act. This was the first consumer protection law passed in the United States. Under this law, whiskies labelled as “Bottled in Bond” must be distilled in one season (January to June or July to December), aged for at least 4 years, bottled at 100 proof, with nothing other than watered added to adjust strength. To ensure the consumer knew where their product was produced, the bottle was labelled with the distillery at which it was produced and bottled. These many requirements make it so the consumer knows fairly specifically where, when and by whom their bottles of whiskey were produced.

In 1906 the Pure Food and Drug Act added one more adjective to the label of whiskey bottles. The act stated that “straight” whiskey could only have water added to it. If neutral spirits, coloring or additives were added, the whiskey was to be called “imitation” whiskey. In 1909, President William Howard Taft amended this rule to say that whiskey with neutral spirits added must be known as “blended” whiskey.

Do these rules still matter today?Absolutely! These laws and regulations still govern the beverage in your glass and still mean what they did over a century ago.

Bottled in Bond whiskeys will bear Distilled Spirits Plant (DSP) numbers on the side to indicate where the bottle was distilled and bottled. These bottles are

Bottled in Bond continued

among the highest quality in American whiskey, they are highly regulated and traceable back to their specific production. In order for a product to be considered Bottled in Bond it must be aged four years, which indicates the distillery has operated and sustained itself for at least that long, and most likely longer.

Bottled in Bond whiskey is the highest quality of spirit, it has exceeded the highest standard of government regulation, and connects us back to a long history of American whiskey. @whisky_of_life https://whiskyoflife.wordpress.com

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B A LT I M O R E S

SAGAMORE SPIRITS DAVID PEARCE CHATS WITH BRIAN TREACY, THE CO-FOUNDER & PRESIDENT OF SAGAMORE SPIRITS

If you want the real America, it’s wise to get away from the places known by their initials – SF, LA, NYC, DC – are all well and good, but for me there’s more interest elsewhere.

My enthusiasm for The Wire TV show took me to Baltimore. You’ll be pleased to know I didn’t fall in with any dangerous street gangs, but I did wind up in the Cat’s Eye in the Fells Point area, down by the waterfront. Music good food, even better whiskey. What a fine night it was. I hardly noticed the return journey to where I was staying in the depths of Virginia – even though it was a much longer trip than the normal British run home from the pub.

Brian Treacy knows the Cat’s Eye well, the Sagamore Spirit Distillery is not far away.

On Interstate 94 near the Orioles stadium, it’s more of a complex than a distillery with visitor centre, restaurant, tasting rooms, bars and laws for outdoor events - of which there are many.

Sagamore brings an entrepreneurial fizz and swagger to the lively world of North

American whiskey. Not surprisingly, as the man behind Sagamore is Kevin Plank, founder of Under Armour. ‘Kevin is one of the world’s great brand storytellers,’ explains Brian. ‘He’s interested in building this brand and is also a passionate Marylander and sees the Distillery as part of a long history of making quality products in the state.’

Don’t think it’s a hands-off relationship with Kevin Plank either. He makes a very direct contribution to the business ‘Our water comes from Kevin’s Sagamore Farm upstate. We go twice weekly for water. Calcium rich limestone spring water from a source that was built in 1909. We also grow 100% of our Maryland rye and 100% of the non-GMO corn. The farm once raised racehorses but as the pastures are turned over to crops, we can now own the process from beginning to end.’

‘Six or two row rye?’ I ask, knowledgeably.

Bryan is unimpressed. They have five different varieties which allows a high degree for experimentation. ‘We are always learning, trying out different mashes, working with the University of Maryland and always willing to share our learning with other distilleries.’

The main Sagamore offer concentrates on three whiskeys: ‘Our Sagamore Straight Rye is the core product, a characteristic Maryland Rye, 41% ABV, with the unique sweetness of the Maryland rye. It works well on its own and is robust in a cocktail.

‘Our Double Oak is aged five years in two casks. Our barrels are mainly Ozark oak, but we are hoping to have more Maryland grown oak as time goes on.

We’ve developed a technique of putting groves in the inside of the toasted staves to increase the surface contact with the whiskey. This produces a unique clove, nutmeg and cinnamon taste with background notes of toasted coconut and marshmallow sweetness.

‘Our third core product is our Cask Strength 56% ABV, a big bold whiskey with strong white and black pepper notes with a hint of dark chocolate sweetness. We also do selected releases and other specials – distillery exclusives.’

These are unique, very distinctive whiskies. But Brian isn’t precious about his tasting notes. He also sees the strength of his brands in cocktails. ‘These are great whiskies for traditional whiskey cocktails. But we also like to play around with mixes. We love the Black-Eyed Rye – Rye, blackberries, ginger beer, line juice and mint. And what about substituting whiskey for the more usual spirit? Rye-arita anyone? Paloma with rye instead of tequila?’

Sagamore has built up a real following which saw queues – OK lines – of enthusiasts anxious

to get into events during the summer.‘We had around 800 to 1000 people here. It’s a community. People are prepared to make a bit of a pilgrimage here and we want to give then a memorable experience with food and drink and entertainment. Of course, we have to make a profit, or we won’t be around for long. But it’s got to be about more than just money.’

Brian has a very clear view of the role of a big brand like Sagamore. It’s distillery is as big and distinctive as the products it makes. It’s very much part of the skyline in Baltimore.

‘If you are right in the heart of the city as we are, you have to be part of the city. Its not just about you. Its about you and your neighbours.’

And lest that sounds very urban and a long way from the archetypal rural vision of the distillery, Ryan tells me that he was disturbed in the ageing barn one afternoon by a very strange sound: ‘I heard a knocking at the inside of a window. It was a big foot-long woodpecker with a beak that seemed even bigger. Now, a room with few hundred wooden barrels of priceless ageing liquor is not the place where you want to see a woodpecker. We spent two hours very carefully removing him.’

Luckily, the Sagamore spirits were saved, quietly ageing as this brand goes on to develop its reputation and following, being part of the community as well as building its own community.

The Distillery joins the Cats Eye on my list for the next visit to Baltimore.

Sagamore Spirits Website @sagamorespirit

“WE GROW 100% OF OUR OWN MARYLAND RYE”

If you are right in the the city as we are, you have to be part o

heart of

of the city

“What Bimber has accomplished in such a short period of time is truly remarakable.

Their expressions often sell out before release such is their popularity amongst the whisky community.”

David Pearce

The Baker

Spotlight on @whiskybeth

Beth is a super smiley whisky lover who also loves to bake.

What is there not to love about that? Especially as she is a whisky expert as well!.

If the day is a bit grey just have a look at her account and be whisked away to happyland. I certainly do and look forward to visiting Toronto and tasting her cookies which she sells at local markets. @whiskybeth

I N S TA G R A M P O S T S

@THEWHISKYEXPLORER

MIKE BRISEBOIS Lets Talk About Wood With continuous high demand of whisky, Japanese distilleries started sourcing their own oak to make barrels to age whiskies.

Not the easiest of wooden casks to work with, Mizunara oak is prone to leaking and is extremely porous, not to mention the trees need to be more than 200 years old before they can successfully make a cask due to the trees’ unruly growth patterns.

Because of the difficulties that casks made from Japanese oak present and its unique taste profile, Mizuara oak barrels have become one of the rarest and most expensive barrels you can find in the globalmarket. Due to its popularity, distilleries all over the world such as Scotland, Canadian and Amercian started to use Mizunara oak as the finishing cask for their whiskies.

We all know of American Oak & European Oak, but let’s take some time to dive into Mizunara Oak! I’ve had the pleasure of tasting many expressions finished in Mizunara Oak & they have always been amazing as the oak imparts bold flavours like vanilla, clove, nutmeg, incense, coconut, honey, blossom, and pear.

Mizunara oak is special because rather than being a popular international import, like ex-Bourbon or exSherry casks have become, it is indigenous Japanese oak. While first used in the 1930s, this oak didn’t come into prominence for ageing whisky until after World War 2 when the aftermath of the war meant that bourbon casks for ageing whisky in were fairly low on the priority list when it came to international imports.

Here we have The Shinobu Pure Malt 10 Years Old. SHINOBU means “forbearance” in Japanese, symbolizing the spirit of a samurai!

Located in Niigata of Japan, which is famous for its “Three White” treasures namely snow, rice and sake. Sourcing whisky from around the world is placed in bourbon & sherry casks for more than 3 years & finished in Mizunara oak.

It is great how the distillery is transparent with sourcing whisky from around the world and then putting their finishing touch on it with the finish in these rare oak casks.

I love the full aromas of the three various casks used as it really gives a nice beautiful balance in the whisky.

Sometimes, it really is about the wood!

Did you know that at one point Talisker was triple distilled?

What do you think?

With the change to mature the majority of the stock on the mainland, much of the original buildings / warehouses have been demolished. It didn’t help that there was a fire at the distillery on November 22, 1960 when a valve on the coal-fired number one Spirit still was left open during distillation. Spirit escaped from the still and caught fire and the entire still house burned to the ground! It was of course rebuilt to the same specifics to ensure consistency!

It is said that if you can find a whisky that was matured on the island that when nosing it you would think that you were in the mash run, it smelled of the distillery and it’s surroundings. A taste of the past!

Yes, it’s true and was their way of making whisky in the early days at the distillery. They stopped this practice in 1928.

Much has changed at Talisker since it was established in 1830. From 1830 to 1995 barley would be brought in by puffers to keep this highly sought after whisky continually being distilled. The powerful, peppery and peaty Talisker is sometimes referred to as “The lava of the Cuillins”, and the author Robert Louis Stevenson was a fan, writing in 1880 “The king o’drinks as I conceive it, Talisker; Isla or Glenlivet from the book The Scotsman’s Return from Abroad).

Prior to the Skye Bridge being built in 1995 all maturation took place on the Island. There is an ongoing debate as to whether there is a difference between single malt whisky matured at its place of production and that matured in vast bonding complexes. I believe that it does make a difference!

Now to the Whisky!

Here we have the Talisker Distiller’s Edition distilled in 1986. Combining the island peatiness with its own notes of warmth and spice.

Finishing the malt in sweet Amoroso cask-wood amplifies the whisky’s natural hints of sweetness and rounds out its rugged peaty character.

Sounds delicious to me.

Follow Mike on Instagram @thewhiskyexplorer

“In this series we highlight some of our favourite posts by fellow instagrammers”

ANGELS NEC

I chat to Robert from Angel’s Nect a collection of blended malt whisk inspired by the angel’s share, the traditional name of the whisky los to evaporation during the maturati process. Some whiskies are more favoured by the angels than other Angel’s Nectar so blessed?

Interview by David Pearce Written by Annie Bowles

A blended Scotch whisky named ‘A Nectar’ gives rise to a series of del images – cheeky cherubin figures floating from one distillery to the n swiping drams of the best malts lik butterflies suckling sweet nectar f flowers. Robert of Angel’s Nectar s the opportunity in this little tale, s how much guests at distillery tour tastings around the world loved th angel’s story. The angels are choos thought, after perhaps one too ma drams that evening – they look for very best casks but blend them to on their boozy buffet. The angel’s thus fitted in quite well with a cate of blended malt. Robert firms belie that blends are the way forward, o up creative possibilities, opposed antiquated idea of the superiority single malt.

The real angels in the story, howev Robert’s contacts in the whisky tra Working for Glenfarclus for a deca sales before setting up Angel’s Ne

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prior to that he was in the food industry. He worked with a mysterious, moonlighting master blender who remains anonymous. Rather than going to various warehouse viewings, the samples were coming through the post in little bottles. On their online shop, the bottles are labelled ‘strictly limited production’ as they work through an evolving collection of small batch releases, celebrating inconsistency. Their Islay editions have gone through a rollercoaster of changing flavour profiles, according to Robert – their first edition had no peat at all, then they introduced two Highland malts heavy with welcoming peat smoke, then a few editions later they were offered a Rioja cask to mature in, which gives the whisky a lovely rosy hue.

The bottle and labelling itself is a work of art – a gorgeously simple Spanish bottle, with the red metallic angel labelling decorated in the Czech Republic – a testament to the progressive and international nature of the company.

Despite the difficulties posed by the challenges of the last year, many items on their website are sold out. Although it is a romantic idea to make whisky, sales is where the hard work is done. Due to Covid, Angel’s Nectar have had to rely on retailers, as they were only able to get their own physical and online presence as the pandemic began. Seventy-five to eighty per cent of their business is in export, shipping out to Germany, France and parts of Asia, which is generally a lower percentage than the industry standard. When developing Angel’s Nectar, Robert wanted the result to be for the

customer who loves Scotland, and whisky, as an experience in itself, alongside all the other glorious things Scotland has to offer – rather than someone who visits distilleries three days a week. The idea is to share Scotland’s blended bounty with the international community, not only in premium flavour but in story. However, this has become more difficult logistically due to the international situation regarding the UK’s imports and exports. Robert bemoans a three-fold increase in the cost of freight from the Netherlands, meaning they have had to restructure their approach to importing – meaning a lot of paperwork.

In the face of various international disasters, the reach of Angel’s Nectar still is something to be proud of. Recently on Instagram, Robert saw that their product had reached Singapore without him even knowing. The retailer then started importing from directly – starting a business is a rollercoaster, says Robert, full of highs and lows – but this is definitely one of the highs. angelsnectar.co.uk @angelsnectar

DISCOVERING

OUTLAW RU David Pearce chats to Jim Ashley, one of the founders of Outlaw Rum in Huntly, Aberdeenshire, a unique specialist distillery which marries Trinidadian rum and premium malt whisky. Written by Annie Bowles.

As a pair of ‘rig pigs’ working on oil rigs in Trinidad, Jim and his friend Pat were spoiled by the wide availability of premium Caribbean rum on offer. However, upon returning to the UK, the only options were the usual mass-produced spiced stuff – nowhere near the high quality they had grown used to back in the tropics. Despite having no experience in the drinks industry, they threw ideas back and forth as to how they could introduce a rum like no other to their home isles.

From one island to another, they came up with the original idea to source a fantastic base spirit from Trinidad, sail it across the seas to find a new home in whisky casks – creating a specialist, premium grade rum with a wholly unique flavour profile and finish.

This creative, ambitious project was certainly challenging to two newbies in the industry. Jim still works in global energy, juggling two jobs to get Outlaw properly up and running. No one had done rum like this before, and their greenness cost them a lot of extra work – an unknown entity doing something never attempted previously meant a lot of jumping through hoops to get their warehouse certified, the process of which took over a year.

They had to convince the big boys they were serious – that they weren’t just a cowboy outfit giving it a go, they were in it for the real deal.

For Jim, the goal has always been to present rum in its best light. They didn’t want to turn rum into whisky – but rather to create an alchemical spirit which marries two rich distilling histories, showcasing the best qualities of each spirit and its unique processes. After reading an article in Cask and Still Magazine by Vic Cameron (affectionately known as the Whisky Minister), Jim was drawn to his objective opinion and experience. He didn’t look down upon rum as a lesser spirit than a single malt; a challenge Jim regularly faces in the industry. After emailing Vic in 2018, he was onboard almost straightaway after tasting samples of the unfinished base rum. The tasting reportedly mostly consisted of Vic attempting to get Jim to admit he was giving him whisky, not rum.

He must have been convinced of the true spirit eventually, as Vic has now been working with Outlaw for two years.

On the border of Speyside, Outlaw’s warehouse is nestled in the heart of malt whisky country. According to Jim,

UM

distilleries are always asked for their casks, with smaller, local outfits generally being more receptive to supporting a new business. Despite handing over casks, distilleries are extremely protective of their brand, so Jim isn’t dropping any names yet, though hopefully as Outlaw expands in the future, that will all change. For their flagship rum, sporting a black and gold label, they use a mix of Speyside and Highland casks together with bourbon, mixing the maturation.

Following an agreement with Angostura, Outlaw has their own exclusive, matured cask aged rum from Trinidad, which reportedly already has a good finish compared to most. By maturing in whisky casks, Outlaw are able to tie their product to the area, but mainly to show this underdog spirit in the best possible light, with a deeper complexity and finish to taste. Jim and Vic check their casks every two months (monthly for their Islay single cask), keeping a close eye on the alchemical process taking place beneath

the wood.

Outlaw stresses that the whisky casks provide a maturation, not a finish – the rum developing in casks for a year, evolving dramatically throughout this time. The way the sprit works with the wood means that the flavours penetrate from the wood itself, delving beyond the whisky in the cask, due the high alcoholic percentage. Plenty of factors come into play which deliver a unique end result.

Further maturation in the whisky casks takes place in a vastly different climate to

“distilleries are extremely protective of their brand”

the initial birthplace of the rum – shaping the flavour by plenty of environmental movement we see here in the UK, depending on how much moisture is in the air, and the climate throughout the seasons. Ensuring consistency with production, Outlaw plan to come out with aged statement rum product lines in the next year or so.

The impact of Covid has meant that trade has been challenging, although Outlaw have managed to distribute to some independent whisky shops. Their first release was last year, in an auction through Whisky Hammer. Jim is hoping that in May or June 2022 they will be able to stand alongside whiskies in blind tastings. Upon tasting the flagship blend rum, the initial molasses gives way to whisky notes through development in the glass, ending with vanilla from the wood, hints of deep orange and baking spice, reminiscent of hot cross buns, well balanced despite the sweetness of rum. As the initial rum is cask aged in the tropics, the humidity really works the wood, adding a complexity and length in the finish, which Jim is very pleased with.

Their special release Islay single cask was a bit of an experiment for Jim, as he found a little resistance from Pat and Vic. Concerns that the rum would be

completely steamrollered by the heavy Islay wood were not shared by Jim, who was sure it would be perfectly balanced. It is incredibly smoky – with orange coming through the peat, with an undulating finish, which reportedly can be kept going for three to five minutes if one takes a good, hearty sip. It’s a love-it-or-hate-it product, with Vic still thinking it veers a tad on the marmite side. Jim adores the strength of it and the balance of sweet fruit with smoked peat - a properly matured spirit.

The locals of Huntly, the small town where Outlaw’s warehouse is based, have had a mixed approach to the brand.

Being malt whisky country, plenty are interested through being employed by distilleries themselves, buying a bottle from the launch for Christmas to try. Not content with making beverage history, Jim’s future goals are to provide work to local people who need it. He wants to give opportunities to former professional sportspeople and ex-servicemen, who may be struggling to know what’s next for them after their initial careers. Jim’s even worked with strong men in the past and has been thinking of hosting local strength competitions, in which competitors would lift kegs and casks.

They plan to support the Luke and Tom Stoltman, Scottish strength competitor brothers, host a strongman event in the

near future.

Despite a rocky start due to the tumultuous international events of the past year, and the ambitious challenge of producing a unique spirit with no prior experience, Outlaw Rum proves that their experiment is a success. Jim fondly quotes a glowing customer review, ‘Whisky in rum casks is difficult to make work, but rum in whisky casks proves it works really, really well … Bonkers, when it’s available I’d like to buy a couple of cases,’. If the idea alone isn’t tempting enough, the customer satisfaction certainly draws attention to these rig pigs making their way in the industry.

Outlaw Rum @outlawrum

Sleep l;ate Have fun Get wild Drink Whisk Hunter S Thompson

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ky

INTRODUCING

ARMAGNAC ARMIN INTE RVIE W DAVID PEARCE

WRITTEN BY MARTIN RAYMOND

I have a great fondness for Armagnac. As a Sommelier working in 1–3-star Michelin restaurants, it amazed me how much value they offered compared to Cognac.

The producers were smaller, the bottles had vintages stated on them, they offered intrigue and diversity. Yet they were seldom ordered. Such a shame as Armagnac is one of, if not the oldest brandy to be distilled, with references going back to 1310.

And there lies the problem. Edouard sums it up neatly:‘Armagnac is super-dusty. Your grandad drinks it. But no one else. It’s for older people and only for older French people. Where Cognac has big markets in China and the USA, Armagnac has only an ageing domestic market. It’s far too good a spirit no to be drunk! So, we approached the domaine with a plan to change all that.’

Historically Armagnac, made at the foothills of the Pyrenees, is curated from a blend of grapes which includes Baco 22A, Colombard, Folle Blanche and Ugni blanc, in column stills. Cognac uses Pot Stills and mostly Ugni Blanc grapes further differentiating the two.

Their mission was big and bold, with packaging that is more Las Vegas than Les Halles. Colour and clarity is the name of the game:‘The consumer needs to know what they are buying – what to do with it. Armagnac is a digestif, but we wanted to make it clear that you didn’t have to be a sixtyyear-old man on a big sofa to enjoy it. This is a drink for young urban consumers, women as well as men, for people relaxing after work, or having a good time in a club. It’s a shot, a mixer, an everyday beverage. We avoid jargon and we let drinkers know what they can do with the drink. We break the rules!’

The other notable difference between Armagnac and Cognac is the former is traditionally only distilled once, giving quite a fragrant spirit at a low 52-60 ABV. I recently chatted with Edouard Boyer of Armin Armagnac about his brand and Armagnac in general.

Dr Samuel Johnson, who knew a thing or two about booze, famously opined that claret was the drink of boys, port for men, but for heroes nothing short of brandy would do.

But perhaps if the good Doctor had been a bit more adventurous in his tastes, then he would have opted for Cognac’s wilder and fiery compatriot, Armagnac.

Altogether a more heroic drink. And potentially a more interesting one too. For Edouard Boyer, plus his colleagues Edgar Anagnostou and Augustin Chatenet, the moment for Armagnac has come. From a background in the drinks industry the three partners bring an ambitious vision and marketing nous to a product rooted in tradition. For a country overflowing with national drinks – anisette, cognac, absinthe, not to mention all the wines – Armagnac perhaps speaks of le patrimoine like no other.

I salute Edouard and his team. They are taking a valuable product into the 21st century – making sure that part of the nation’s heritage has a future. But before you think that Edouard and his colleagues are reinventing the brand without finesse, the equivalent of projecting a fast-food advert on to the L’Arc d’Triomphe, listen to his respect for the tradition:‘Our still is designated a historical monument. It was installed in 1804 and is in daily use. Our barrels are made from oak grown on the domaine. The craftsman who turns the oak into barrels has been doing the job for over forty years. Just like his father before him. Regrettably the tradition is under threat as there is no one to take over his craft. He makes four barrels a day.’

These valuable containers often have a second

life as a highly prized part of the maturing process of certain whiskies.

‘The terroir of our drink is unique. The Gascon climate and grapes, of course. But also, the people – they are very much part of the drink. The Gascon people are unique and that is reflected in the drink and its long heritage.’

Cognac has a bit of head start – it’s produced in ten times the volume of Armagnac. But Armin is very much on the case and a perfect of example of how respect for tradition and modern marketing imagination can be combined to supercharge a heritage drink.

And Edouard also has plenty respect to for Armagnac’s better known relative, Cognac:‘I see parallels between tequila and mescal. Like Cognac tequila is the dominant spirit, it’s conquered the world. But mescal is possibly the more interesting spirit, and has gained ground.

In the same way Armagnac is maybe less smooth than Cognac, but it has a bigger personality and it’s strong character makes it more adaptable and more memorable.’

armagnac-armin.com

Edouard feels that Armagnac’s robust personality makes it ideal as the core spirit in cocktails: ‘My favourite is an Armagnac based Old Fashioned, and for a simple long drink Armagnac and tonic is hard to beat. But it works across any cocktail that is based on a brown spirt like whisky or rum.’

I can vouch for the fact that Armagnac brings la difference to cocktails – it adds a real bite and kick to most mixes. Armin Armagnac 6-Year-Old (VSOP – but they don’t make much of that – it’s unhelpful insider jargon) is designed especially for easy cocktail experiments.

Cognac may be for heroes, but the logical extension here is that for superheroes, lounging in their tights and masks after a hard day saving the world, a shot of Armagnac is the only suitable beverage.

@armagnac_armin

NEW DISTILLERIES

Killarney Brewing and Distillery

BY HAYLEY GIBSON @redwhiskygirl

The Killarney Brewing and Distillery venture in Killarney, Ireland is not only geographically rooted between two landscapes, the Gap of Dunloe and Carrauntoohil, but metaphorically speaking too, Ireland locals versus Global influences.

With a €24 million investment into a new brewery, distillery and visitors centre in Fossa, just outside Killarney, one would presume the venture can only be a positive addition to the area. Nonetheless, locals have their concerns, and the company is already in a legal tussle “over the right to use the word Killarney on their products” with competitor Aidan Forde claiming “nobody should own a place name”. (Pretty sure a few Scotch companies do….)

In October, I did my bit for the local Killarney economy and took a trip visiting a friend and her family. I was fortunate to get a tour of the under-construction facility, surrounded by luscious emerald, green fields and which sits directly on the famous Ring of Kerry. As a tourist myself within that weird space of “post-spring lockdown” and “pre-winter lockdown”, I was staying within a household of different generation Killarney townsfolk and thus, heard their opinions about the continually changing landscape of their home and the impact of foreign investments into their industries and particularly, the whiskey industry.

Killarney has around only 14,000 inhabitants, falling 31st in population size in Ireland, relying heavily on tourism for survival. Ireland is stated as being both small and globalised, and therefore, more sensitive to the developments around the world.

I am sure every reader is aware, the Covid Pandemic is still present throughout much of Europe!

Understandably, then, Ireland has been one of the hardest hit countries during this time, due to lack of tourism. Pre-pandemic, Killarney itself attracted 1.1 million visitors a year and in 2019-2020 (the pandemic peak) tourism jobs in the town were down -75.9%.

It does not take an academic to realise what effect that will have on the town’s economy and the people itself.

Side note: the townsfolk of Killarney and much of Kerry, are incredible, some of the kindest, generous, friendliest people I have met.

Now, let’s look at the details: Killarney Brewery and Distillery is the parent company of both Killarney Brewing Company Ltd and Killarney Distilling Company.

The former was founded in 2013

by Killarney entrepreneurs, Tim O’Donoghue, Paul Sheahan, and their Chicago-based business partner, Liam Healy (with family connections to Kilbrean, Killarney).

There is a strong “nod” to their Chicago links with an impressive ‘Chicago Brick’ staircase feature, extended throughout the centre of the facility, showcasing the striking bare brick, shipped over from Chicago itself - a symbol of the unity of the Chicago funders in the project.

Speak with the locals and the new site could be, controversially, just another investment from a distant Irish descendant from North America (Ireland has good few). The centre is being built fundamentally, with Canadian bricks and money, which begs the question: does this make the centre just another whiskey

distillery using international finance and is bricks and mortar upon Killarney soil enough for the area?

Let’s be frank, there are incredible statistics emerging from the whiskey industry in Ireland. Irish whiskey is the world’s fastest growing spirit category from the past decade. It is not surprising then how by the end of 2020 (when the report was published

by Drinks Ireland), there were 38 operating distilleries, 34 more than the start of 2010! For a town which relies heavily on North American tourism, generating within the region of €410 million to the Irish economy overall, one would want to guarantee that a 62000 sqft craft brewery and spirits production facility [compromising a custom-built malt and grain distillery; world class visitor experience hosting daily brewery and distillery tours; a 180-seat upscale bistro; a gala dinner venue; gin school; chocolatier, and a magnificent rooftop bar and grill offering unhindered views of the Gap of Dunloe and Killarney Lakes] (*phew) will bring an economic boost to the area, but we will have to wait and see.

There is no denying, the facility will be incredible. My friend and I were in awe at the tour, given by the Dublin-born Marketing Manager Sadhbh nevertheless, my local friend was concerned by the lack of local produce: a Chocolatier from Belgium, many main members of staff from other areas of Ireland and Europe (understandably, brought into the facility for their specialisms) and the brickwork shipped over from Chicago. However, we were reassured that work by local artists will be used to decorate, in addition to a local artist sculpture competition. Plus, there is the potential to employ 85 local people (their given estimates) when opened as an “operational facility”.

Regardless of the criticism, when what will be Ireland’s largest independently owned facility and first co-located brewery and distillery officially opens in spring 2022, I will be first at their doors, spending my money in Killarney and I am sure I will not be alone. Let’s hope, once opened, the centre will become the beating heart of whiskey distilling in the Kerry area and pleases the locals because for many of us, we already admire and love Killarney for its beauty. The Killarney Brewery, Distillery and Visitors Centre will be the ‘cherry on top’ of that weekend trip for all whiskey enthusiasts.

@redwhiskygirl

THE WHISKY SHOW DAVID PEARCE VISITS THE WHISKY SHOW IN LONDON

It was fantastic to attend the Whisky Show a couple of months ago. I had forgotten the sheer scale of it to be honest, and should have given it a couple of days to really do it justice, as there are so many stands to see, but perhaps more importantly for me, people to chat with. That is the problem when launching a whisky magazine coupled with an inquisitive mind!

The Whisky Show provides the opportunity to taste literally hundreds of samples from a vast range of distilleries. It allows you to focus your mind. Going forward, next year, I think I am going to taste in blocks of style as opposed all together. It needs some sort of plan and also discipline. It is all too easy to be swayed by the brand ambassadors into trying an entire range, but a laser focus is the way to go if you want your palate to remain on point.

I was afforded the opportunity to taste so many incredible whiskies that would otherwise have been beyond my budget.

A Fettercairn 40 for example (sorry

whisky.tee) a 35-year-old Tamdhu and a sip of the Karuizawa 38-Year-Old Cask #7582. What an absolute privilege that was and somewhat impossible to follow.

Some of the highlights of the show were some of the youngest whiskies - Lindores Abbey and Rassay in particular. These are going to be super exciting to taste in the years to come.

Speciality Drinks (the wholesale arm of The Whisky Exchange) exhibits most of their range, giving ample chance to taste American whiskey in particular, although don’t expect to find any Pappy on offer (unless it is under the table!)

An additional day was really needed to take in the various talks, of which I attended none. This was a real shame as this is where the real education comes in. A lesson learned, if you will excuse the pun.

I highly recommend the Whisky Show, I can think of no down side of going. Your ticket (Saturday and Sunday) even includes lunch. You have an opportunity to try endless drams helping you make you purchasing decisions, without the possibility

of buying a bottle you end up regretting. There is even an on-site store.

The 2022 show will be held from September 30th to 2nd October - The Whisky Show

‘The Philosophy of Whisky’ - what a great book by Billy Abbott, and one I am sure you have seen by now on Instagram. The book explores the history of whisky in the major production areas - Scotland, Ireland, Japan, USA, Canada, and the rest of the world. Fascinating and clearly well researched, giving a great insight into the development through the ages.

You also learn how wars and famine had a serious impact on production and the demise of many distilleries.

I fully expect Instagram posts going forward to be full of references to this gem of a book!

Preceding the historical information is a chapter on the constituent parts that go into making this most revered of spirits that we all love. I am not going to go into any further details here, as you really need to read it yourself. A book that should be on every whisky lover’s shelf and at £10 or less, it is a no brainer.

Buy on Amazon here

BEING ASKED TO WRI OF WHISKY FOR THE WAS THE HIGHLIGHT THE BOOK CAME OUT OF MY EXPE

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PHILOSOPHY OF WHISKY

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#01

#02

// BAKERS 107 7 YEAR OLD

// BETZ MASTERS BLEND

Taster 1

Taster 1

Nose - Bourbon , phenolic, oaky, slight citrus with an underlying hint of custard cream Taste - Sweet, spice shop , slight alcohol nip with dry and tarte medium finish Thoughts - Very Young spirit at cask strength, chill filtered

Nose - Sherry , leather, cola cubes.

Taste - Earthy , leather, sweet, tobacco with a bit of an alcohol nip and a a bitter finish.

Thoughts - I’d guess 45% ABV oily mouthfeel long finish.

Taster 2

Taster 2

Nose - Maraschino cherries, marzipan, cotton blossom, hint of zest and cotton candy, hint of spearmint Taste - Buttery, popcorn, nutty, a bit oily, sort of lingering minty, menthol finish Thoughts - The nose was inviting and reminded me of a really nice rye. But the flavour was, sadly, not nice.

It had a very unpleasant toothpaste after taste and texture. Not for me.

Nose - Wooden, banoffee, melon Taste - Smooth, easy drinking, soft fruits Thoughts - Bourbon cask matured

#03

#04

\\ MICHTERS AMERICAN WHISKEY BATCH 120K2981

\\ CATOTKIN CREEK

Taster 1

Taster 1

Nose - At the first smell it is solventy with notes of nail vanish remover; it is green/grassy with aromas of cereal.There is a hint of dusty notes like rye bread, wet hay and fresh cut grass. A bit of citrus zest and farmyard note.

Taste - Sweet vanilla and caramel sauce on the palate, toasted oak and burned sugar. The Rye bread flavour settle down the sweet and warm vanilla.

Thoughts - A bit too sweet at the beginning. The aftertaste is short and simple.

Nose - Quite a lot of oak, vanilla, a little zest. Warming, some baking spices, particularly nutmeg.

Taste - Orange, lots and lots of spice, but also quite metallic, youthful and punchy. Almost herbal at the back.

Thoughts - This one is really not for me - quite strong and the flavour profile is not to my personal taste, especially as it develops.

Taster 2

Taster 2

Nose - Nail varnish remover, strawberries and red apple Taste - A bit of a funky medicinal taste to this, quite herby like theme and rosemary with salt and then finishes with strawberry bonbons Thoughts - Too savoury for my liking

Nose - A note of orange blossom honey and oak with vanilla. Quite savoury. Very pleasant.

Taste - Spicy, buttery, great length, grains, werthers original sweets.

Thoughts - Tasty, probably cask strength and American. Very enjoyable.

#05

#06

// SAZERAC RYE

// BUFFALO TRACE

Taster 1

Taster 1

Nose - Lots of toasted oak, quite sweet, with maple syrup, orange oil and cinnamon buns Taste - Lots of orange, vanilla, and wood spices. A little dark chocolate and damp wood Thoughts - It’s fine. Not to my personal taste but it would probably make a good old-fashionedWhat is it?

- To me this is so heavily bourbon influenced it might actually be a bourbon. I have some difficulty ascribing this to a Scottish region. Maybe Nordic.

Nose - Toasty oak, but refined and mellow, with vanilla and orange oils. Slight bit of chocolate, butterscotch.

Taste - Rich, with honey, maple syrup, orange zest, cinnamon, vanilla frosting and sweet pastry Thoughts - Probably an American whiskey, but quite refined and pleasant after some of the others. Nice sipper. Probably much fancier than I think!

Taster 2

Taster 2

Nose - It has a hint of salted caramel, Sugar cane / rhum agricole, It has a sweet nose like toffee and brown sugar with poached pear notes.

Taste - Warming mouth feeling with creamy texture, It’s oaky with aromas of toasted oak, Demerara sugar and sweet brioche. There is a lots of dried fruits here like apricot, pear and bananas all covered in a lovely vanilla custard cream. Of course toffee, butterscotch and vanilla are all here.

Thoughts - The after taste is really fruity, Unusual for a bourbon. It’s like eating a fruit salad with a dash of rhum sauce and vanilla custard on top texture. Not for me.

Nose - Love it! Brambles, mixed fruit crumble, vanilla panna cotta, panettone and acacia honey. Touches of tangy tropical fruits, cocoa powder and warm toffee sauce Taste - Sweet toffee brittle, brandy snap biscuits, cinnamon icing and parma violet. Cooling mouthfeel and balanced tannins. Lovely balance of cooked fruits and gentle baking spices Thoughts - Yep, that ticks the boxes for me! Rounded tannin and wood spice for quite a forward dram (Not too extracted)

#07

#08

\\ FOUR ROSES SINGLE BARREL 86-55

\\ TEELING BLACK PITTS

Taster 1

Taster 1

Nose - Lots of stewed fruits, plenty of esters, some charred wood and oak spices.

Taste - Quite rich and thick, with a balance of dark and red fruits and spice coming through Thoughts - Young, fruity, estery, fairly high ABV - I’m fairly sure on this one being one of the new English distilleries. Nice enough to try and talk about, not sure I’d want a full bottle.

Nose - Earthy woodland smells, birch syrup, liquorice and lemons Taste - Very light mouth feel, lemon zest, campfire smoke and stoned fruits Thoughts - Pleasant

Taster 2

Taster 2

Nose - Toffee apples, daim bars, salted caramel and praline. Touch of dried pineapple, red fruits and wood polish Taste - Yum! Bright, chewy toffee, cedar and rolling tobacco. Vanilla pod, beeswax, barley sugars and golden raisins Thoughts - Bright, chewy and wood forward. It’s tasty, vibrant and quite more-ish

Nose - Sweet peat, caster sugar, grassy, fresh cut hay Taste - Malty with a very subtle smoke, slight mint on the finish.

Thoughts - Its lovely, well balanced and great for someone who perhaps wants mild peat

#09

#10

// J P WISERS 15

// POWERS SINGLE POT STILL 12 YEAR

Taster 1

Taster 1

Nose - Pronounced and spirity. Warm butter pastry, browned butter, soft brown sugar and hints of beef gravy. Opens up into desiccated coconut, maraschino cherry, treacle and oat flapjacks Taste - Sweet and rich. Notes of treacle toffees, soreen loaf, cloves and nutmeg. Mississippi mud pie, caramelised pecans, butterscotch and warming cigar spices Thoughts - Strange nose upon opening but really came to life with time in the glass. Big, rich and and indulgent. A winter nights dram.

Nose - Fruity. Bourbon, green apples and cloves Taste - Sweet honey slightly oily (nice) subtle chocolate and cloves with a bitter salty finish Thoughts - Different , pleasant , wouldn’t be disappointed.

Taster 2

Taster 2

Nose - Grassy, caramel.

Taste - Watery, light.

Thoughts - No depth, nothing on the palate.

Nose - Lemon, oats, pear, grains fresh.

Taste - Light, delicate but with depth. A beautiful subtleness. Like walking through a meadow of wild flowers.f Thoughts - One for the summer where it would be fantastic. Not sure it has the depth for deep dark winter nights.

#11

#12

\\ THE ENGLISH PEATED

\\ OLD FORESTOR 1920 PROHIBITION STYLE

Taster 1

Taster 1

Nose - Deep and smokey, cloves orange, star anise and aniseed.

Taste - Strong sticky smoke with spikes of sweetness though more of a savoury dram.

Thoughts - Not my cup of tea.

Nose - Butterscotch, vanilla Taste - Spicy, fiery Thoughts - Long finish

Taster 2

Taster 2

Nose - Smokey, citrus, smoked salmon in a good way.

Taste - Initially light and smokey giving way to smoked salmon and dill.

Thoughts - I would love to drink this with smoked salmon - a perfect match!

Nose - Festive spices, rich, molasses, complex, hints of honey, toffee.

Taste - Lots of spice and chilli letting go to reveal vanilla fudge, toffee and chocolate.

Thoughts - Once you get past the beautiful spice the layers unfold to reveal a complex palate full of flavour. A lovely driness to it and length.

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