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5 cosy accessories to hook today

Bright cowl in waistcoat stitch

Boho dĂŠcor

Baskets,table mat,clock,tiebacks and more!


New prints

available

Available in 12 solids and 6 unique prints

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND YOUR NEAREST STOCKIST VISIT

WWW.WYSPINNERS.COM TEL: (0)1535 664500 · EML: SALES@WYSPINNERS.COM


Hello, twinkle toes! We’re itching to get our hooks into the super sock patterns in our free booklet. But they’re not the only treats this issue: go big on sparkly boho home, transform a jacket into a statement piece, and make our fun party shark. (See his hat? Told you. Party ready.)


Ready to party! p44 ISSUE SIXTY-SEVEN

CONTENTS

21 TunIsian CusHion

Psst

Embroide the co stitch deign

MidNight GarDen P14

ExcIting CroChet IdeAs to InsPire you 14 MIDNIGHT GARDEN 26 LACY CARDIGAN 33 RUCHED HEADBAND 41 EMBELLISH AN OUTFIT 44 AMIGURUMI SHARK 48 MOCK CABLE SWEATER

54 GRAPHIC SCARF 57 STRIPY BLANKET 59 HOOK TO HOOK 63 WAISTCOAT STITCH 70 BABY HOODIE 95 MAKE A MANDALA

Fab fibonacci stipe, p81

win

check out ou Tun to page 59 and u could deigne challenge – yo win gogeou yan!


70

48 mock cableS

41

63

57 CoaStal StrIpes

26 Good ReaDs

how to...

09 HOOKED 38 JOURNAL: TWINKIE CHAN 52 PROFILE: ALISON HOFFMAN 66 GREAT ESCAPES 76 SHOW US YOURS! 98 MY HOOKY TREASURE

34 SUBSCRIBE Never miss an issue!

74 YARN REVIEWS Stunning sock yarns

78 THE WORKSHOP Fibonacci stripes

85THE GUIDE Essential step-by-steps

91 CHARTS

Stained gla mandala, p95

Wrap up in StyLe P54

33


Get your make on Whether you’re loving the dramatic look of our Midnight Garden collection (see page 14), or if you’re looking forward to working up simple stripy blankets this month (pages 57 and 81), we’ve got you covered! Fibonacci stripes are such a wonderful idea. Once you know the principles behind them you’ll be dying to put them into practice, so don’t forget to show us the results! We’re going to be experimenting like mad while we dream of a crochet getaway – turn to page 66 to find out more.

Commissioning Editor Sara Huntington Art Editor Kimberly Saunders Technical Assistant Cara Medus Production Editor Becca Parker Digital Editors Kate Evans, Matthew Spiers Cover Photography Phil Sowels Photography Philip Sowels, Jesse Wild Group Art Editor Louise Bambridge Editor-in-Chief Debora Bradley Group Senior Editor Julie Taylor

AdvErTisInG Call 0117 300 8206 Senior Advertising Manager Penny Stokes Account Sales Manager Rachael Hawkins Brand Sales Executive Alexandra Johnson

MarKeTing & SubScRipTions Direct Marketing Executive Kate Jones

CirCuLatIon

ConTrIbuTors A round of applause for this month’s hooksters…

Head of Newstrade Marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade Marketing Manager Janine Smith International Account Manager Juliette Winyard

ProDuCtiOn Production Co ordinator Sarah Greenhalgh Production Manager Emma McGuinness / Siân Rodgers Production Director Sarah Powell

BuyIng Team Paul Torre, Karen Flannigan, Corinne Mellerup

LicEnSing Senior Licensing & Syndication Manager Tim Hudson

“BLACK DENI M NEVE R GOE S OUT OF STYLE!” LOU SMITH

Lou and Sara designed our fabulous denim jacket upcycle this issue on page 41; it’s a triumph of mesh crochet and black denim mixed to the max. Rock on!

“SOCKS ARE MY FAVOURITE THING TO CROCHET”

PubLiShiNg Craft Publishing Director Kerry Lawrence Managing Director Bristol Andy Marshall Chief Executive Officer Tom Bureau

ROHN STRONG

Sock man extraordinaire Rohn is the crochet star behind our sock-tastic booklet. From trendy trainer socks to an elegant lacy choice, Rohn’s hooked something special for all skill levels.

SubScRipTions Call 03330 162 146 or subscribe online at www.buysubscriptions.com/craft

Need to get in TouCh? EDITORIAL TEAM simplycrochet@immediate.co.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS TEAM simplycrochet@buysubscriptions.com 03330 162 146

Next IssUe on Sale ThuRsday 22 FebRuary 2018 No gift included? Ask your newsagent. Covergift may be unavailable overseas.

“SIMPLE STRIPES ARE SO CUTE ON BABIE S RIGHT NOW” SUSAN MARIA

Susan is an avid crocheter, with oodles of designs under her creative belt. She’s put her talents to good use and whipped up the gorgeous hoodie for little ones on page 70.

“I LOV E TRYIN G OUT NEW OF US ING CLASSI C STITC WAYS HES” MARTY MILLER

You might recognise Marty from her The Crochet Doctor or Not Your Granny’s Crochet blog. She’s taken time out of her busy schedule to hook the clever Fibonacci blanket on page 81.

OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Annelise Brant, Liliana Buce, Esme Crick, Ilaria Caliri, Amanda Crawford, Lucy Croft, Judy Darley, Vicky Guerrero, Catherine Hood, Margaret Hubert, Tuula Kryola, Emma Leith, Jenny May Forsyth, Esther Newman, Nicole Riley, Becky Schooley, Becky Skuse, Eleonora Tulley

Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited (company number 05715415) is registered in England and Wales. The registered office of Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited is at Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. All information contained in this magazine is for information only and is, as far as we are aware, correct at the time of going to press. Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. Readers are advised to contact manufacturers and retailers directly with regard to the price of products/services referred to in this magazine. If you submit unsolicited material to us, you automatically grant Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited a licence to publish your submission in whole or in part in all editions of the magazine, including licensed editions worldwide and in any physical or digital format throughout the world. Any material you submit is sent at your risk. Although every care is taken, neither Immediate Media Company Bristol Limited nor its employees agents or subcontractors shall be liable for loss or damage.

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EASY CROCHET BABY PATTERN 5058 Available now from all good yarn retailers

kingcole.com 01756 703670 • enquiries@kingcole.com • Join us on Social Media Visit us at stitches, NEC, Feb 18th-20th, Hall 12, Stand D24, leave your details with us to recieve 5 FREE patterns.


love denim? you’re going to love

JEANS

®

CREATING A MORE COLORFUL, CONNECTED, & GIVING WORLD For over 7,000 FREE patterns, visit lionbrand.com


Ideas

Inspiration

Accessories

Websites

Events

Stuff

Super super size me! You’ve heard of chunky and super chunky yarns – well, prepare to fall in love with Mrs Moon’s new ‘super’ super chunky, endearingly named Podgy. Made from the same mix of 80% ethically sourced superfine merino and 20% baby alpaca as their Plump yarn, Podgy is twice the thickness and has a twist to lock in the softness. It comes in three shades: Sea Salt, Pepper and, our favourite, the warm spiciness that is English Mustard. We are totally in love… divine. Go to www.mrsmoon.co.uk for more details. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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OFFTHEHOOK Ever been on the W

train, reached for your crochet and realised you’ve left your hook at home? Fear not! As dedicated hooksters know, all you really need to crochet are your fingers – and designer Agne Nazebetauskaite teaches just that in her workshop making chunky finger crochet baskets on 17 February. See www.marketplace armagh.com.

STAR QUALITY

A

ctor Krysten Ritter aka Jessica Jones has become even more of a superhero by designing a range of uber-stylish kits for We Are Knitters. We’ve taken a fancy to the 80s Vibe Leg Warmers – just the ticket for busting out our Kids from Fame moves. Also in the range is the chunky Aunt Sharon Snood. Go to www.weareknitters.com

Trend alert

We Love... OK, so when we grow up we want to be mermaids… Until then though, we’ve rounded up a few accessories to help us on our way to fishy-tailed beauty. Everyone needs their own mermaid tail blanket for relaxed moments, and King Cole’s crochet pattern comes in sizes from baby to adult (www.kingcole.com). Keep your mitts warm with Crochet Tea Party’s colourful mermaid wrist warmers from www.lovecrochet.com. And make sure everyone knows you’re a mermaid on the inside with a splendid tote bag (www.kellyconnordesigns.com). If your hoped-for transformation doesn’t come to pass though, a personalised print could be in order, also from www. kellyconnordesigns.com.

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NEW YORK CHIC

The Yarn Collective’s Hudson Worsted is their first yarn line with Michele Wang, founder of mishi2x Designs. It’s a luxurious blend of 15% yak and 85% extra fine merino wool and, inspired by New York’s Hudson Valley, comes in 11 warm, rich shades. Mmm, it’s putting us in a New York state of mind… £15.99 per 100g at www.loveknitting.com.


HOOKED

INSPIRING BOOKS CUDDLY AMIGURUMI TOYS

MARI-LIIS LILLE (£15.21, Meteoor Books)

Following the success of her Magical Amigurumi Toys, designer Lilleliis is back with this new collection of adorable amigurumi animals. There are 15 cute projects to choose from, including Klaus the Rabbit, Lars the Little Dragon and Mia the Cow. Great for gifts for little ones.

mini profile

SHYAMA NIVAS Shyama Nivas, aka blogger Sweet Nothings Crochet, told us: “I taught myself crochet 27 years ago when I was pregnant with my son but in the last four years, what started as a hobby has become a passion. In October 2013, I started writing and testing patterns on Ravelry. It was a natural progression to become a crochet blogger. “I get inspired by charts or photos on the internet. I love the challenge of trying to figure out the pattern. I like to mix and match patterns and get something different. While I love most of my projects, two that have taken my heart are my Divine Long Ladies’ skirt and Stunningly Superb Umbrella. “We, as a family, are animal lovers and we support local animal NGOs in India. I donate much of the money I make from my crochet sales to this endeavour. We usually foster one stray animal (or two) in our home most times. “I believe in donating to at least one charity per year and have supported Project Chemo Crochet and The Peyton Heart Project, among many others. This year,

GRANNY SQUARES & FLOWER MOTIFS

NICKI TRENCH (£9.99, CICO Books)

I participated in an initiative to create a large blanket portrait of Nelson Mandela to mark his 100th birth anniversary in July 2018. “I am also a proud Guinness World Record holder for the largest crochet blanket, made with friends, which was 11,148.5m square. “Crafty confessions? If I’m counting and you talk to me, you’ll get numbers thrown at you! I have also been known to mumble numbers and pattern gibberish at night.” Find Shyama at www.shyamanivas.blogspot.in and on Instagram at @sweetnothingscrochet

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SUBS STARS!

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ExcLuSivEly for SubScRibErS!

X

Every month, three subscribers win a prize as a thank you for their loyalty. This month, the winners (below) will each receive this fab amigurumi cupcake kit from DMC! Check your issue next month to see if you’re a winner! Miss Christine Gallacher, High Wycombe Miss Doreen Chapman, Waltham Abbey Mrs Janet Upward, Fleet Immediate Media Company, publishers of Simply Crochet, Subs Stars giveaway terms and conditions. Prizes were dispatched before the on sale date of this issue. There are no cash alternatives. Three winning entries will be chosen at random from all current subscribers. The draw is final and no correspondence will be entered into.

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Gather up your yarn stash and have some fun learning to crochet squares, hexagons, triangles and flowers with Nicki Trench’s latest book. Full of clear photos and with an extensive techniques section, this is a great book for beginners and you’ll find 25 colourful projects to practise your skills on.

CROCHET KALEIDOSCOPE

SANDRA ENG (£18.99, Interweave)

This book almost combines crochet with quilt making. With a collection of 100 motifs, you can choose shapes and colours and then combine them to create your own unique designs for blankets or shawls. The book features a guide to choosing yarn colours, and there are also five patterns to make, including a table runner, and rug.

REALLY CROSS STITCH

RAYNA FAHEY (£9.99, Herbert Press)

Get on board for some craftivism and help save the world one stitch at a time. Inspired by the banners and signs at some of the recent marches around the world, like ‘Creativity not Capitalism’ and ‘Fight like a girl’, Really Cross Stitch features 40 cross stitch designs and celebrates craft, creativity and community. Welcome to the Craft Revolution… Yes, bring it on!


COOL CATS

T

he Mercerie are offering you the chance to take part in a real-life crochet-along. Over four Saturday workshops at Norfolk Yarn in Norwich you will make the gorgeous Folklore Shawl, choosing your own colours from a range of Yarn Stories DK wool, and learning new skills as you go. The first workshop takes place on 24 March and the next three are in April, May and June. The cost for all four workshops and materials is £135. Go to www.themercerie.co.uk for more details.

WORKSHOPS

Festival! mum’s the Word Mother’s Day is just around the corner and we think this cheerful poppy patterned crochet hook case (£7) would make a great gift for hooky mums. There’s also a bigger poppy knitting bag (£14) with room for all her yarns and patterns. She can bring it over to your place for a family crochet and cake date. Well that’s Mother’s Day sorted – you can thank us later. Head to www. hobbycraft.co.uk for more details. 12 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Join all the yarn junkies flocking to Scotland from 15-17 March for 2018’s Edinburgh Yarn Festival. You’ll find masses of inspiration with around 100 retailers, including independent hand-dyers, wool producers and indie makers, plus a great workshop programme, and plenty of socialising, including a yarn café and a ceilidh! Find out all the latest and book tickets at www.edinyarnfest.com

BRIGHTSTRIPES

Just check out the irresistible rainbow colour brights in this totally toothsome new range from Bernat. Blanket Stripes is a soft and cosy chenille-style super chunky yarn available in 12 scrumptious colours. The yarn hooks up in a flash (hurrah!) and, as the name suggests, is ideal for bigger projects, such as throws and cushions. Brighten up all that neutral interior décor in an instant for a spot of spring sunshine. For the full range and to find out more go to www.deramores.com Jeni Reid & Aine Ryan for Edinburgh Yarn Company Ltd

‘REAL-LIFE’ CAL

WEvery cat owner knows you can never have too many cats. Seriously, there’s no such thing. Now you can bump up the numbers with the DMC Natura Pussycat Amigurumi pattern. Get hooking and you’ll be surrounded by colourful, cute kitties in no time. The pattern features stripy, dotty or single-coloured cats designed by Sara Mackin. £2.75, and 0find a stockist at www.dmc.com/uk


HOOKED

5 FAB FINDS

WOOLLY WHIRL

Mother’s Day Treats Treat Mum to a gorgeous gift this spring.

Feast your eyes on these delicious new yarn cakes from Scheepjes. The Woolly Whirl is like Whirl but warmer, made of 70% cotton and 30% wool, and it has extra long colour changes. Choose from four shades – we’re loving the Chocolate Vermicelli… yum! £24.50 per 1,000m cake. www.scheepjes.com

1

HEART TO HEART Cakes or crochet knick-knacks? This set of lovely vintage-inspired storage tins is perfect for keeping your kit in check – but you can keep one aside for biscuits, obviously. www.lakeland.co.uk

2

PETAL SOFT Give your mum a treat with this cross stitch style cushion kit decorated with cool irises. Check out the daisy version too! www. annsorchard.co.uk

out & about

Show Time Don’t miss The Spring Knitting and Stitching Show, which is back in London’s Olympia from 1-4 March. With hundreds of workshops, demos and oodles of yarn retailers, there’s plenty of inspiration for crocheters, as well as the gorgeous Textile Galleries, and a host of other crafts you might want to try, from quilt making to dressmaking. Tickets are £13.50. Go to www. theknittingandstitchingshow. com for all the details.

Skills, shows & events FEB23 Learn to Crochet with Sophia Reed, £54.95, Black Sheep Wools, Warrington, 01925 764 231, www.blacksheepwools.com

MAR1 Beginners’ Yarn Dyeing, £35, Sconch Yarn Shop, Nr Braintree, Essex, 01376 743123, www.sconch.com

FLORAL TRIBUTE Go trad with these perfect hooky tulips – ideal for injecting a bit of spring when we need it most! Search for MyCroWonders in Etsy for more gorgeous patterns.

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BLOOMIN’ MARVELLOUS Your mum is bound to love this A5 card adorned with a pretty crochet flower, £3.50 from www.lingart designs.co.uk

ALL SEWN UP We would suggest this is a lovely Mother’s Day gift, but frankly, we want to keep this gorgeous sewing box for ourselves… www. hobbycraft.co.uk

5

MAR1-4 The Spring Knitting & Stitching Show, £13.50, Olympia, London, 0844 581 1319 www.theknittingandstitchingshow.com

MAR8-11 The Creative Craft Show, £8.50, SEC, Glasgow, 01425 277988, www.stitchandhobby.co.uk

MAR15-17 Edinburgh Yarn Festival, £TBC, The Edinburgh Corn Exchange, www.edinyarnfest.com

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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Melamine & china bowls, cutlery, biscuit & sugar tin from Dotcomgiftshop

´ HOME DECOR IDEAS

Midnight garden

Brighten your home with mandalas and flowers stitched in the prettiest sparkly palette against a deep dark blue.


on the SheLf It’s a known fact that yarny bunting makes the world a much happier place. Whip up this colourful mandala design and bring a warm vibe to your get-togethers round the kitchen table. It’s got pompoms too!

Boho BeaUty Love crochet? Love cross stitch? You’re gonna adore this gorgeous cushion. See those pretty flowers all worked in cross stitch in sparkly yarn? And that cute crochet trim? We see so much fun ahead of you…


´ HOME DECOR IDEAS

BasKet Case China cup from Dotcomgiftshop

A touch of floral cheer never goes amiss, right? And these bright, appliqué flower baskets, inspired by canalside beauty, are perfect for storing your yarn, logs, cats… everyone will want one.

a StiTch in Time… Clock watching is much more fun with this awesome, one-of-a-kind design. Just be careful all those mesmerisingly beautiful stitches and glorious shades don’t make you late… WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 17


´ HOME DECOR IDEAS

CurTain RaiSer

Coasters, bowls and cutlery from Dotcomgiftshop

Add some seriously boho soul to your living space with this showstopping curtain tie. A knockout mandala design, squishy dangly pompoms galore, and a colourful braided cord… all positively swoonsome, dontcha think?

mat of the Land This is a mat that says ‘notice me’. And it is indeed a thing of great loveliness that’s sure to make you want to linger that bit longer at breakfast or tea. Those yummy colours! Those cute bobbles! Pretty and practical, it’s a winner. 18 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM


´ HOME DECOR IDEAS

Mandala Shelf Edging Beautiful bunting to add some fashion florals to your shelves. By Emma Leith. Q Scheepjes Cahlista (100% cotton, 50g/85m) 1 ball of Yarn A Lime Juice (392) 2 balls of Yarn C Ultramarine (124) Q Scheepjes Twinkle (75% cotton, 25% polyester, 50g/130m), 1 ball of each: Yarn B Blue (919) Yarn D Lilac (927) Yarn E Pink (926) Yarn F Orange (937) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook

TENSION Tension is not critical for this project

MEASUREMENTS Large Mandala measures 16cm (6Âźin) diameter Small Mandala measures 8cm (3in) diameter

ABBREVIATIONS lhtr (long htr) htr in st 2 rounds below, pulling yarn up to current round before finishing FPhtr (Front Post half treble) Yrh, starting from the front, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of st in row below, yrh and pull through, yrh, pull through all 3 stitches on hook FPtr inc (Front Post treble increase) Working from the front, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of st in row below, complete as a tr st. Work one more st in the same way in the same place. picot Ch3, ss in first ch to join

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NOTES Each Mandala section is made up of one large Mandala and 1 small Mandala with a pompom and measures 25cm, so you can adjust how many sections you make to fit your shelf. This piece is made up of 5 sections plus one small Mandala with pompom to balance each end and measures 1.4m. Yarn colours in brackets denote colour combinations for each Mandala. LARGE MANDALA Using Yarn C, ch6, ss to first ch to join into a ring or make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as first tr), 11tr into ring, ss in top of ch3 to join, fasten off. [12 sts] Round 2 Join Yarn B (B, E, D, F) in any st, ch3 (counts as a tr), 1tr into same st, 2tr in each st to end, ss in top of ch3, fasten off. [24 sts] Round 3 Join Yarn A into any st, ch1 (counts as a dc), 1dc, *ch3, 2dc; rep from * to end, ss in first dc, fasten off. [24 dc, 12 ch-3 sp] Round 4 Join Yarn E (E, D, F, B) into any ch-3 sp, ch2 (counts as an htr), *(1htr, 1tr, ch2, 1tr, 1htr) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * to end working (1htr, 1tr, ch2, 1tr) into last ch-3 sp, ss in top of beg ch2 to join, fasten off. [48 sts, 12 ch-2 sp] Round 5 Join Yarn C into any ch-2 sp, ch1 (counts as a dc), ch4, *1dc into next ch-2 sp, ch4; rep from * to end, ss into first ch1 to join, fasten off. [12 dc, 12 ch-4 sp] Round 6 Join Yarn B (B, E, D, F) in any ch-4 sp, ch1 (counts as a dc), 4dc in same ch-4 sp, 1FPhtr around next dc, *5dc in next ch-4 sp, 1FPhtr around next dc; rep from * to end, ss into first ch1 to join, fasten off. [12 FPhtr, 60 dc] Round 7 Using Yarn C with Yarn F (F, B, E, B) for the FPtr increase work as follows, join

Yarn C in any dc from previous round that follows an FPhtr, ch2 (counts as an htr), 4htr, join Yarn F (F, B, E, B), work FPtr inc in FPhtr from Round 6, *pick up Yarn C, 5htr, pick up Yarn F (F, B, E, B), work FPtr inc in FPhtr from Round 6; rep from * to end, ss with Yarn C to top of beg ch2, fasten off Yarn F (F, B, E, B). [24 FPtr, 60 htr] Round 8 Using Yarn C, ch1 (counts as a dc), picot, 1dc, *1dc, picot, 1dc; rep from * to end, ss in first ch1, fasten off. [42 picot] Twist 2 contrasting yarns together and weave into Rounds 1 and 2 for each Mandala. MINI MANDALA (AT EACH END) Using Yarn C, ch6, ss to first ch to join into a ring or make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as first tr), 11tr into ring, ss in top of ch3 to join, fasten off. [12 sts] Round 2 Join Yarn D (F) in any st, ch3 (counts as a tr), 1tr into same st, 2tr in each st to end, ss in top of ch3, fasten off. [24 sts] Round 3 Use this round to join to one large Mandala, join Yarn C in any st, ch1 (counts as a dc), picot, *2dc, ch1, place hook through a picot sp on large Mandala, yrh, pull through picot sp and st on hook, ch1, ss in first ch of mini Mandala to complete picot, rep from * to join into second picot sp of large Mandala, (2dc, picot) to end, ss into first ch1, fasten off. MINI MANDALA (CENTRAL) Using Yarn C, ch6, ss to first ch to join into a ring or make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as first tr), 11tr into ring, ss in top of ch3 to join, fasten off. [12 sts] Round 2 Join Yarn D (F, B, E) in any st, ch3 (counts as a tr), 1tr into same st, 2tr in each st to end, ss in top of ch3, fasten off. [24 sts] With RS facing place large Mandala that has a small Mandala joined so that the small Mandala is on the right. From the top joining picot count 14 picots round (anti-clockwise). This 14th picot is where the next mini Mandala will be joined as follows: Round 3 Join Yarn C into any st, ch1 (counts as a dc), picot, *2dc, ch1, place hook through a picot sp on large Mandala, yrh, pull through picot sp and st on hook, ch1, ss in first ch of mini Mandala to complete picot, rep from * to join into second picot sp of large Mandala, (2dc, picot) 5 times, **2dc, ch1, place hook through corresponding picot sp on next large Mandala, yrh, pull through picot sp and st on hook, ch1, ss in first ch of mini Mandala to complete picot, rep from ** to join into next picot sp of same large Mandala, (2dc, picot) to end, ss into first ch1, fasten off.


´ HOME DECOR IDEAS

Twist 2 contrasting yarns together and weave into Rounds 1 and 2 for each Mandala. TO MAKE UP Join as many mini and large Mandalas as needed to fit your measurements. Make small pompoms and attach to the bottom picot of each mini Mandala. This will help even the weight of the mini Mandala and help them hang evenly. TOP RUNNER BAND Place joined Mandalas onto a table (RS facing) with a mini Mandala as the first Mandala on the right. Row 1 Using Yarn C, ch3, 1tr in 4th picot sp clockwise from where the mini Mandala joins the large Mandala, ch2, 1htr into next picot sp, ch2, 1tr into next picot sp, *ch8, 1tr into 4th picot of large Mandala (counting from top picot join with mini Mandala on the right hand side), (ch2, 1dc in next picot) 5 times, ch2, 1tr in next picot, ch8, 1tr in 2nd picot of mini Mandala (counting from top picot join with large Mandala on the right-hand side), ch2, 1htr into next picot, ch2, 1tr into next picot; rep from * to end, ch3, turn. Row 2 Ch1, dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in each of next 2 ch, work across row as foll: 1dc in each st, 2dc in each ch-2 sp and 8dc in each ch-8 sp to last 3 ch, 1dc in each of last 3 ch, turn. Row 3 Ch1, 1dc in each st to end, fasten off. Do not turn. Row 4 With RS facing, join Yarn D to first st, ch 1, 1dc in same st, (1trtr, 1dc) to end, fasten off, do not turn work. Row 5 With RS facing, join Yarn C to first st, ch1, 1lhtr in first st from row 3, (1dc in trtr, 1lhtr in dc from row 3) to end, fasten off, do not turn work. Row 6 Rep Row 4 using Yarn E. Row 7 Rep Row 5 working lhtr into Row 5. Cut lengths of Yarn A and B 10cm longer than final length of runner band and twist together. Weave through Row 2 and Row 7. Weave in all ends.

Tunisian Cushion

That deep blue background makes the details pop on this stunning cushion. By Eleonora Tulley. Q Scheepjes Cahlista (100% cotton, 50g/85m) 6 balls of Yarn A Ultramarine (124) 1 ball of Yarn B Lime Juice (392) Q Scheepjes Twinkle (75% cotton, 25% polyester, 50g/130m), 1 ball of each: Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Yarn C Pink (926) Yarn D Blue (919) Yarn E Orange (937) Yarn F Lilac (927) Q A 4.5mm (US 7) crochet hook Q A 5.5mm (US I/9) Tunisian hook Q Cushion pad 40cm (16in) square

TENSION 16 sts and 16 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over Tunisian simple stitch using a 5.5mm Tunisian hook

MEASUREMENTS 42x42cm (16½x16½in)

ABBREVIATIONS Tss (Tunisian Simple Stitch) Each row of Tunisian Crochet is made up of a Forward Pass (FwdP) and Return Pass (RetP); you do not turn the work at all, so you will be working from the RS throughout FwdP (Forward Pass) Loop on hook counts as first st, do not work into the vertical bar on edge of work; *with yarn at back, insert hook from side to side behind next vertical bar, yrh and pull up loop and leave loop on hook (1 stitch complete); repeat from * until last vertical bar at edge, insert hook under vertical bar and loop on outside edge, pull up loop RetP (Return Pass) Yrh and draw through first loop on hook, *yrh and draw through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * until 1 loop remains on hook

Using Yarn B, C, D, E and F add cross stich design to front panel of cushion using the Chart on page 92 as a guide. TO MAKE UP Block both pieces and weave in all ends. Using Yarn B and a 4.5mm hook. Row 1 Place WS together, join Yarn B to first st on one side and work 1dc through both layers of each st/row end (63 sts each side), joining the corresponding sides together evenly around 3 edges and working 3dc into each corner. Insert the cushion pad and continue to crochet final edge to close, ss to first dc. [264 sts in total, 63 sts each side, 3 sts each corner] Row 2 Ch1, *1dc in next 5 sts, (1dc, 5ch, 1dc, 5ch, 1dc, 5ch, 1dc) in next st, repeat from * around, ss to first st and fasten off.

NOTES The cushion front and back are worked in Tunisian simple stitch. The cross stitch pattern is added using the Chart on page 92 as a guide. Once both pieces have been worked and blocked they are crocheted together over the cushion pad using double crochet and picot edging. CUSHION FRONT AND BACK (BOTH ALIKE) Using Yarn A and a 5.5mm Tunisian crochet hook ch64. Foundation row Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yrh and pull up loop, leaving loop on hook; repeat for each ch across to end, RetP (64 loops on the hook). Rows 1–62 Tss FwdP across entire row, RetP. Finishing row Skip vertical bar on edge of work, (insert hook under next vertical bar, yrh and draw through both loops on hook to make a ss) repeat for each st to end, fasten off.

BASKETS

“For these baskets I took inspiration from narrowboat style flowers and leaves,” says designer Esme Crick. Q Scheepjes Cahlista (100% cotton, 50g/85m) Small basket: 4 balls of Yarn A Ultramarine (124) 1 ball of Yarn B Lime Juice (392) Large basket: 7 balls of Yarn A Ultramarine (124) and 1 ball of Yarn B Lime Juice (392) Q Scheepjes Twinkle (75% cotton, 25% polyester, 50g/130m) 1 ball of each: Yarn C Lilac (927) Yarn D Blue (919) Yarn E Pink (926) Yarn F Orange (937) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q PVA glue WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 21


´ HOME DECOR IDEAS

TENSION Rounds 1-5 measure 10cm (4in) diameter on base; 13 sts and 13 rounds measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over dc/dcbl on sides using a 5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Max dimensions of large basket: height 23cm (9in), diameter 27cm (10¾in) Max dimensions of small basket: height 18cm (7in), diameter 21cm (8¼in)

NOTES Use 2 strands of yarn held together for main baskets, splitting a single ball into 2 if required. The sides of the baskets are worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work.

the next 10 sts, (2htr in next st, htr in each of the next 10 sts) to end. [96 sts] Round 13 Ch1, 2htr in same st, htr in each of the next 11 sts, (2htr in next st, htr in each of the next 11 sts) to end. [104 sts] Do not fasten off yarn. Block base to hold shape. Allow to dry thoroughly before proceeding.

SIDES Work the rest of basket in a continuous spiral, do not join at end of each round. Use a stitch marker in first st of each round. Round 1 Pick up loop, ch1 (does not count as st), dcbl in each st to end. [104 sts] Round 2 Dc in each st to end. Round 3 Dcbl in each st to end. Rounds 4 to 24 Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 ten times, then Round 2 once. Do not fasten off yarn.

HANDLES LARGE BASKET

BASE With 2 strands of Yarn A and a 5mm hook, ch4, ss to first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 8htr into ring. ss in first htr to join (here and at end of each round for basket base). [8 sts] Round 2 Ch1, 2htr in each st to end. [16 sts] Round 3 Ch1, 2htr in same st as join, htr in next st, (2htr in next st, htr in next st) to end. [24 sts] Round 4 Ch1, 2htr in same st, htr in each of the next 2 sts, (2htr in next st, htr in each of the next 2 sts) to end. [32 sts] Round 5 Ch1, 2htr in same st, htr in each of the next 3 sts, (2htr in next st, htr in each of the next 3 sts) to end. [40 sts] Round 6 Ch1, 2htr in same st, htr in each of the next 4 sts, (2htr in next st, htr in each of the next 4 sts) to end. [48 sts] Round 7 Ch1, 2htr in same st, htr in each of the next 5 sts, (2htr in next st, htr in each of the next 5 sts) to end. [56 sts] Round 8 Ch1, 2htr in same st, htr in each of the next 6 sts, (2htr in next st, htr in each of the next 6 sts) to end. [64 sts] Round 9 Ch1, 2htr in same st, htr in each of the next 7 sts, (2htr in next st, htr in each of the next 7 sts) to end. [72 sts] Round 10 Ch1, 2htr in same st, htr in each of the next 8 sts, (2htr in next st, htr in each of the next 8 sts) to end. [80 sts] Round 11 Ch1, 2htr in same st, htr in each of the next 9 sts, (2htr in next st, htr in each of the next 9 sts) to end. [88 sts] Round 12 Ch1, 2htr in same st, htr in each of 22 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Round 25 18dc, ch18, skip next 16 sts, 36dc, ch18, skip next 16 sts, 18dc. Round 26 18dc, 18dc around ch, 36dc, 18dc around ch, 18dc. [108 sts] Round 27 17dc, skip next st, 18dc, skip next st, 34dc, skip next st, 18dc, skip next st, 17dc. [104 sts] Round 28 Dc in each st to end, fasten off Yarn A. Round 29 Join 2 strands of Yarn B in same st, ss in each st to end, fasten off. TO FINISH Weave in all ends. To strengthen basket, use a brush to apply a mixture of 50% PVA glue and 50% water onto inside of basket. Allow to dry for at least 24 hours, applying more coats as needed. SMALL BASKET

BASE Follow Base instructions for large basket up to and including Round 10. [80 sts] Do not fasten off yarn. Block base to hold shape. Allow to dry thoroughly before proceeding.

SIDES Follow Sides instructions for Large Basket up to and including Round 16. [80 sts per Round]

HANDLES Round 17 14dc, ch13, skip 12 sts, 28dc, ch13, skip 12 sts, 14dc. Round 18 14dc, 13dc around ch, 28dc, 13dc around ch, 14dc. [82 sts]

Round 19 13dc, skip next st, 13dc, skip next st, 26dc, skip next st, 13dc, skip next st, 13dc. [78 sts] Round 20 Dc in each st to end, fasten off Yarn A. Round 21 Join 2 strands of Yarn B in same st, ss in each st to end, fasten off. TO FINISH Weave in all ends. Strengthen with PVA/ water mix as for Large Basket. FLOWER AND LEAF DECORATIONS Use 4mm hook for each decoration. FLOWER 1 (MAKE 4 FOR LARGE BASKET AND 2 FOR SMALL BASKET) With Yarn C, ch2. Round 1 8dc in first ch, ss in first dc to join, fasten off. [8 sts] Round 2 Attach Yarn D in any st, ch6, ss in same st, (ss in next st, ch6, ss in same st) to end, fasten off. FLOWER 2 (MAKE 2 FOR LARGE BASKET AND 1 FOR SMALL BASKET) With Yarn B, ch2. Round 1 8dc in first ch, ss in first dc to join, fasten off. [8 sts] Round 2 Join Yarn E in any st, ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in each st to end, ss in first dc to join. [16 sts] Round 3 (Ch2, skip next st, ss in next st) to end. [8 ch-2 sps] Round 4 Ss in first ch-2 sp, ch1 (does not count as a st), (dc, htr, 3tr, htr, dc) in each ch-2 sp to end, fasten off. FLOWER 3 (MAKE 2 FOR LARGE BASKET AND 2 FOR SMALL BASKET) Using Yarns B and F, follow Flower 2 patt up to and including Round 3.


´ HOME DECOR IDEAS

Round 4 Ss in first ch-2 sp, ch1 (does not count as a st), (dc, 4htr, dc) in each ch-2 sp to end, fasten off. SMALL LEAF (MAKE 4 FOR LARGE BASKET AND 4 FOR SMALL BASKET) With Yarn B, ch8. Work sts in each ch as foll: Row 1 Skip 1 ch, 2dc, 2htr, 2tr in next ch, htr, 3dc in last ch, working back along other side of ch, htr, 2tr in next ch, 2htr, dc, ss in next ch, fasten off. LARGE LEAF (MAKE 2 FOR LARGE BASKET) With Yarn B, ch10. Work sts in each ch as foll: Row 1 Skip 1 ch, 2dch, 2htr, 2tr, 2tr in next ch, htr, 3dc in last ch, working back along other side of ch, htr, 2tr in next ch, 2tr, 2htr, dc, ss in next ch, fasten off. TO FINISH Weave in all ends and use PVA glue to attach flowers and leaves to baskets as shown.

HYDRANGEA CLOCK

Take your timepiece to the next level with this cute clock cover worked in pretty crochet. By Esme Crick. Q Scheepjes Twinkle (75% cotton, 25% polyester, 50g/130m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Orange (937) Yarn B Pink (926) Yarn C Lilac (927) Yarn D Blue (919) Q Scheepjes Cahlista (100% cotton, 50g/85m)| 1 ball of Yarn E Lime Juice (392) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q An old vinyl LP Q Black paint or black permanent marker Q A battery-operated clock mechanism Q PVA glue

TENSION Rounds 1-2 measure 7.5cm (3in) diameter

MEASUREMENTS Motif measures 30cm (11¾in) diameter Finished panel will fit to the edges of the LP

CLOCK With Yarn A, ch9, ss in first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as first tr), 23tr into ring, ss in top of beg ch-3 to join. [24 sts] Round 2 Ch5 (counts as dtr, ch1), *dtr in next st, ch1; rep from * to end, ss in 4th ch of starting 5-ch to join, fasten off. Round 3 Join Yarn B in any ch-1 sp, ch1 (does not count as st), *dc in ch-1 sp, ch4, skip next ch-1 sp; rep from * to end, ss in first dc to join. [12 ch-4 sps] Round 4 Ch1,*(dc, htr, ch3, htr, dc) in next ch-4 sp, ch1; rep from * to end, ss in first dc to join. Round 5 Ss across to next ch-3 sp, ch1, *dc in ch-3 sp, ch5; rep from * to end, ss in first dc to join. Round 6 Ss to next ch-5 sp, ch1, *(dc, htr, tr, etr, ch1, etr, tr, htr, dc) in next ch-5 sp; rep from * to end, ss in first dc to join, fasten off. Round 7 Attach Yarn C in any ch-1 sp, ch1, *dc in ch-1 sp, ch7; rep from * to end, ss in first dc to join. Round 8 Ss to next ch-7 sp, ch1, *(dc, htr, tr, etr, dtr, ch1, dtr, etr, tr, htr, dc) in next ch-7 sp, ch1; rep from * to end, ss in first dc to join, fasten off. Round 9 Attach Yarn D in any ch-1 sp between 2 etr sts, ch1, *dc in ch-1 sp (between 2 etr sts), ch4, tr in next ch-1 sp (between 2 dc sts), ch4; rep from * to end, ss in first dc to join. Round 10 Ss to next ch-4 sp, ch1, *(dc, htr, tr, etr, dtr, ttr) in next ch-4 sp, ch 1, (ttr, dtr, etr, tr, htr, dc) in next ch-4 sp, ch1; rep from * to end, ss in first dc to join, fasten off. Round 11 Join Yarn E in any ch-1 sp between 2 ttr sts, ch1, *(dc, ch3, dc) in ch-1 sp (between 2 ttr sts), ch7; rep from * to end, ss in first dc to join. Round 12 Ss in first ch-3 sp, ch1, *dc in ch-3 sp, ch1, (3tr, etr, dtr, ch2, dtr, etr, 3tr) in ch-7 sp, ch1; rep from * to end, ss in first dc to join, fasten off. TO FINISH Weave in all ends. Block panel to shape. Cover the label on the LP with black paint or pen. Carefully apply a layer of PVA glue to the back of the crocheted panel, and stick firmly onto LP. Once dry, attach clock mechanism.

ABBREVIATIONS etr (extended treble) Yrh, insert hook in next ch or st, yrh and draw up loop, yrh, draw hook through first loop on hook, (yrh, draw yarn through 2 loops on hook) twice

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Curtain Tie Backs

Update a room with fabulous tie backs. There’s more than a hint of Frida Kahlo about them. By Emma Leith.

Q Scheepjes Cahlista (100% cotton, 50g/85m)

1 ball of each: Yarn A Lime Juice (392) Yarn C Ultramarine (124) Q Scheepjes Twinkle (75% cotton, 25% polyester, 50g/130m), 1 ball of each: Yarn B Blue (919) Yarn D Pink (926) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q Toy stuffing Q Yarn needle with large eyelet

TENSION Tension is not critical for this project

MEASUREMENTS Mandala: 13cm (5¼in) diameter Cord: 76cm (30in)

ABBREVIATIONS Popcorn stitch Work 5tr in same st, drop the loop from the hook, insert the hook from front to back in the top of first tr worked, put the hook back in the dropped loop and pull through the first tr, ch1 MANDALA (MAKE 4) With Yarn A, ch5, ss into first ch to join into a ring. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 8dc into ring, ss in top of first dc to join. [8 sts] Round 2 Ch1, 2dc in each st to end, ss in top of first dc, fasten off. [16 sts] Round 3 Join Yarn D in any st, ch2 (counts as htr throughout), 1htr, *2htr in next st, 1htr; to end, ss in top of beg ch-2, fasten off. [24 sts] Weave in ends. Round 4 Join Yarn B in any st, ch2, htr into same st, 2htr, *2htr in next st, 2htr; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg ch-2, fasten off. [32 sts] Round 5 Join Yarn C in first of 2htr worked in WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 23


´ HOME DECOR IDEAS

one st on Round 4, ch1 (counts as dc), dc in same st, 3dc, *2dc in next st, 3dc; rep from * to end, ss in beg ch-1, fasten off. [40 sts] Round 6 Using Yarn A for the htr and D for the Popcorn st, join Yarn A in second dc of any 2dc worked in one st on Round 5, ch2, 3htr, 1 popcorn in next st in Yarn D, *4dc in Yarn A, 1 popcorn in Yarn D; rep from * ensuring you carry each yarn not being used behind, and work over it as you go, ss in top of beg ch-2, fasten off. Round 7 Join Yarn C in any ch-1 behind popcorn st, ch1 (counts as a dc), 1dc in same st, 4dc, *2dc in next st, 4dc; rep from * to end, ss in beg ch-1, fasten off. [48 sts] Weave in ends. TO MAKE UP Place two Mandalas together with RS outwards and align the popcorn sts. Using Yarn D for first tie back and Yarn B for second tie back join by crocheting the Mandalas together as follows: Next round Join Yarn D (B) in first of any 2dc worked in one st in Round 7, through both Mandalas, ch1 (counts as a dc), 1dc in same st, 5dc, *2dc in next st, 5dc; rep from * to last 3cm, stuff with toy stuffing and complete crochet join pattern, ss in beg ch-1, fasten off. LARGE BEADS (MAKE 2) Using 3 strands of any yarn held together, make a magic loop leaving a long tail of 15cm, and work 6dc into ring. Do not ss to join but cont to work in a spiral. Next round 2dc in each st. [12 dc] Next round 1dc in each st, turn bead inside out.

Next round *Skip next st, 1dc; rep from * to end, using starting tail as stuffing, fasten off and leave tail end of 20cm to use to attach to pompom tassel.

MEASUREMENTS Mat: 56cm (22in) diameter

SMALL BEADS (MAKE 14) Work as for Large Bead using 1 strand of yarn in any colour. POMPOMS (MAKE 6) Make 6 pompoms (3 per tie back) leaving a tail of 20cm on each. POMPOM TASSEL (MAKE 2) Attach 1 small bead to 1 pompom securing ends. Make 2 more. Thread one of these pompom tails on a yarn needle and thread it through 2 Small Beads and a Large Bead. Rep with the other 2 pompoms so that each one is threaded through the same second Small Bead and the same Large Bead. You should now have all the threads coming up through the Large Bead. Tie them all securely as near to the bead as possible and plait them together for 2cm. Tie a knot to secure. Thread the remaining yarn ends back through the yarn needle and tie them securely through one of the increase stitches of the Mandala tie back. Weave in ends. DECORATION Cut 9 lengths of yarn of any colour each 1m long. Tie all yarns together 10cm from one end. Plait the yarns together using 3 strands as one for approximately 70 to 80cm securing with a knot. Sew the ends in the increase stitch that lies directly opposite the pompom tassels on each Mandala and secure with a tight knot before sewing in the ends.

Mandala Mat Mandalas and pompoms in delicious colours make a truly marvellous dinner table centrepiece. By Emma Leith. Q Scheepjes Cahlista (100% cotton, 50g/85m), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Limejuice (392) Yarn C Ultramarine (124) Q Scheepjes Twinkle (75% cotton, 25% polyester, 50g/130m), 1 ball of each: Yarn B Blue (919) Yarn D Lilac (927) Yarn E Pink (926) Yarn F Orange (937) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook 24 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

TENSION Up to end Round 5 11cm (4Âźin) diameter

ABBREVIATIONS lhtr (long htr) Htr in st 2 rounds below, pulling yarn up to current round before finishing 4-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in space/st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 4 times, inserting the hook in the same space/st each time, yrh and draw through all loops on hook picot Ch4, ss into first ch to join ppb pompom bobble Ch4, work a 4-tr cluster into 3rd chain from hook, ch3, work another 4-tr cluster into 3rd chain from hook, join with ss in front loop of st at base of the first cluster, ch1 CENTRAL MANDALA Using Yarn A, ch6, ss to first ch to join into a ring or make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as first tr), 11tr into ring, ss in top of ch3 to join, fasten off. [12 sts] Round 2 Join Yarn B in any st, ch3 (counts as a tr), 1tr into same st, 2tr in each st to end, ss in top of ch3, fasten off. [24 sts] Round 3 Join Yarn C in any st, ch1 (counts as a dc), ch1, *1dc, ch1; rep from * end, ss to first ch1, fasten off. [24 dc, 24 ch-1 sp] Round 4 Join Yarn D in any ch-1 sp, ch1 (counts as a dc), ch1, *1dc in ch-1 sp, ch1; rep from * to end, ss to first ch1, fasten off. Round 5 Join Yarn E in any ch-1 sp, ch3 (counts as a tr), 1tr in same ch-1 sp, 2tr in each ch-1 sp to end, ss to top of beg ch3, fasten off. [48 sts] Round 6 Join Yarn A in any st, ch1 (counts as a dc), 1dc in each st, ss to first ch1, fasten off. Round 7 Join Yarn D in any st, ch1 (counts as a dc), ch1, *1dc, ch1; rep from * end, ss to first ch1, fasten off. [48 dc, 48 ch-1 sp] Round 8 Join Yarn F in any ch-1 sp, ch3 (counts as a tr), 1tr in same sp, 1tr in next ch-1 sp, *2tr in next ch-1 sp, 1tr in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to end, ss to top of beg ch3, fasten off. [72 sts] Round 9 Join Yarn C in any st, ch1 (counts as a dc), *ch2, skip next st, 1dc; rep from * to end, ch2, ss to first ch1, fasten off. [36 dc, 36 ch-2 sp] Round 10 Join Yarn D in any ch-2 sp, ch3 (counts as a tr), 2tr in same sp, 3tr in each ch-2 sp to end, ss to top of beg ch3, fasten off. [108 sts] Round 11 Join Yarn B in any st, ch2 (counts


´ HOME DECOR IDEAS

as an htr), 1htr in each st, ss in top of beg ch2, fasten off. Round 12 Working with Yarn E and Yarn C, join Yarn C into any st, ch2 (counts as an htr), 7htr, change to Yarn E and work a 4-tr cluster in next st, (this cluster will be the marker for subsequent increase stitches in following rounds), *8htr in Yarn C (carrying Yarn E behind work and working over it with Yarn C as the 8htr is worked), 4-tr cluster in Yarn E; rep from * to end, using Yarn C ss to top of beg ch2, fasten off. [12 4-tr cluster, 96 htr] Round 13 Join Yarn B in the top of any 4-tr cluster, ch2 (counts as an htr), 1htr in same st, 8htr, *2htr in 4-tr cluster, 8htr; rep from * to end, ss in top of beg ch2, fasten off. [120 sts] Round 14 Join Yarn D in any st, ch1 (counts as a dc), 1dc in each st to end, ss in beg ch1, fasten off. Round 15 Join Yarn A in any st following an increase in Round 13, ch1 (counts as a dc), *(1lhtr in next st from Round 13, 1dc) 4 times, 2lhtr in next st in Round 13**, 1dc; rep from * to end, ending last rep at **, ss to top of beg ch1, fasten off. [132 sts] Round 16 Join Yarn E in any of the first of 2lhtr worked in same st in Round 15, ch1 (counts as a dc), 1dc into same st, 10dc, *2dc in next st, 10dc; rep from * to end, ss in beg ch1, do not fasten off. [144 sts] Round 17 Ch4 (counts as a trtr), 2dtr in same st, 2tr in next st, 1tr, 2htr, 2dc, *2htr, 1tr, 2tr in next st, (2dtr, 1trtr, picot) in next st, (1trtr, 2dtr) in next st, 2tr in next st, 1tr, 2htr, 2dc; rep from * 10 times, 2htr, 1tr, 2tr in next st, (2dtr, 1trtr, picot) in next st, ss in top of beg ch4, fasten off. Round 18 Join Yarn D in any picot sp, ch1 (counts as a dc), *1dcbl in each st to next picot, (1dc, 1ppb, 1dc) in picot; rep from * to first picot, (1dc, 1ppb) in picot, ss in first ch1, fasten off. DECORATION Add surface crochet and weaving detail as follows: Surface Crochet in Yarn E at the top of Round 1. Twist Yarn A and E together and weave through Round 2. Twist Yarn A and F together and weave through Round 3. Surface crochet in Yarn B at the top of Round 5. Twist Yarn C and E together and weave through Round 6, 11 and 13. Twist Yarn C and B together and weave through the top of Round 8 and 16. Surface crochet in Yarn A around the top of Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Round 10. Twist Yarn A and C together and weave through Round 18 going behind each pompom bobble. MINI MANDALAS Make 12 following colour pattern in the Chart. Ch6, ss to first ch to join into a ring or make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch3 (counts as first tr), 11tr into ring, ss in top of ch3 to join, fasten off. [12 sts] Round 2 Join new colour in any st, ch3 (counts as a tr), 1tr in same st, 2tr in each st to end, ss in top of ch3, fasten off. [24 sts] Round 3 Join new colour in any st, ch3 (counts as a tr), 1tr in same st, 1tr, *2tr in next st, 1tr; rep from * to end, ss in top of ch3, fasten off. [36 sts] Round 4 Join new colour in any st, ch3 (counts as a tr), 1tr in same st, 2tr, *2tr in next st, 2tr; rep from * to end, ss in top of ch3, fasten off. [48 sts]

BORDER On one mini Mandala, count 4 sts up from join at base of ppb. Round 1 Join Yarn B in this st, ch1 (counts as a dc), 1dc in same st, *(ch3, skip 3 sts, 2dc in next st) 5 times, ch1, **join to next mini Mandala by working 2dc into 4th st from ppb join; rep from * around each Mini Mandala, ending last rep at **, ss in first ch1, fasten off. Round 2 Join Yarn C in first ch-3 sp on the furthest right of any mini Mandala, *ch2 (counts as an htr), (1htr, 2tr, 2htr, ss) in same sp, [(2htr, 2tr, 2htr, ss) in next ch-3 sp] 4 times, 1dc in ch-1 sp between the two mini Mandalas, ** ss in first ch-3 sp of next Mandala, rep from * to end, ending last rep at **, ss into top of beg ch2, fasten off. Weave in all ends.

DECORATION Twist indicated colours from Chart together and weave through each round 2 and 4. TO FINISH Joining mini Mandalas to central Mandala as follows. With RS facing, place a mini Mandala alongside Round 18 of the large Mandala. Using Yarn D, sew together two outer sts from each mandala, starting and finishing at a ppb. Rep for all 12 mini Mandalas.

YARN STOCKISTS Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 25


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acy cardigan

Mint condition

Layer this showstopping lacy cardigan over a bright tee and you’ll have an instant hit. By Margaret Hubert.

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acy cardigan For maximum impact you can’t go wrong with a lacy, vintage-vibe cardi teamed with urban-chic jeans (rips optional). You’ll love hooking up our spectacular shell stitch number. Layer it over a top in a bright, contrasting shade to make the awesome pattern really stand out.

A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT

3.75MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED

BACK Ch84 (92: 100: 108). Row 1 (WS) Shell in 6th ch from hook, *skip next 3 ch, shell in next ch; repeat from * across to last 2 ch, skip next ch, dtr in last ch, turn. [20 (22: 24: 26) shells and 2 dtr] Row 2 (RS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of tch, turn. Row 2 sets pattern. Repeat Row 2 until until work measures 38.5 (37.5: 37.5: 37.5)cm from starting chain, ending on a WS row.

Q

Wendy Merino DK (100% superwash merino wool, 116m/50g), Fennel (2382) See table for yarn quantities and measurements Q A 3.75mm (US F/5) hook Q 6 buttons For yarn stockists contact TB Ramsden 01943 872264 www. tbramsden.co.uk

TENSION 4.5 shell patterns and 7 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over shell pattern

ARMHOLE SHAPING Row 1 (RS) Ss across first 2 shells to 2nd dtr of 2nd shell, ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 shells, dtr in first tr of next shell, turn leaving remaining shells unworked. [16 (18: 20: 22) shells and 2 dtr] Row 2 (WS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), (dtr, ch2, tr) in first ch-2 sp, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last shell, (dtr, ch2, tr) in last ch-2 sp, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Row 3 (RS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), dtr in first ch-2 sp, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last (tr, ch2, dtr), dtr in last ch-2 sp, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Row 4 (WS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), skip next dtr, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from *

ABBREVIATIONS Shell (2dtr, ch2, tr) For a full list, see page 90

b

c

ACTUAL BUST (APPROX) LENGTH a

Width a: 45.75 (49: 55: 60)cm 18 (19¼: 21¾: 23½)in Sleeve Length b: 44 (45: 45: 45)cm 17¼ (17¾: 17¾: 17¾)in Length c: 62.5 (63.5: 63.5: 64.5)cm 23¾ (25: 25: 25½)in 28 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

SLEEVE LENGTH YARN – FENNEL

across to last 2 dtr, skip next dtr, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. [14 (16: 18: 20) shells and 2 dtr] Row 5 Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of tch, turn. [14 (16: 18: 20) shells and 2 dtr] Repeat Row 5 until total length measures 58.5 (59.5: 59.5: 60.5)cm, fasten off. LEFT FRONT Ch44 (48: 52: 56). Work as for Back until work measures 38.5 (37.5: 37.5: 37.5)cm from starting chain, ending on a WS row. [10 (11: 12: 13) shells and 2 dtr]

ARMHOLE SHAPING Row 1 (RS) Ss across first 2 shells to 2nd dtr of 2nd shell, ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. [8 (9: 10: 11) shells and 2 dtr] Row 2 (WS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last shell, (dtr, ch2, tr) in last ch-2 sp, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Row 3 (RS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), dtr in first

8-10

12

14-16

18-20

cm

81-86

91

97-102

107-112

in

32-34

36

38-40

42-44

cm

91.5

98

110

120

in

36

38½

43½

47¼

cm

62.5

63.5

63.5

64.5

in

23¾

25

25

25½

SIZE TO FIT BUST

The borders and cuffs are worked in reverse dc, which gives a slight picot-style edging.

cm

44

45

45

45

in

17¼

17¾

17¾

17¾

10

11

12

13

100g

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column.


acy cardigan ch-2 sp, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Row 4 (WS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 dtr, skip next dtr, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. [7 (8: 9: 10) shells and 2 dtr] Row 5 Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of tch, turn. [7 (8: 9: 10) shells and 2 dtr] Repeat Row 5 until total length is approximately 6cm shorter than Back, ending on a WS Row.

NECKLINE SHAPING Row 1 (RS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * 2 (3: 3: 4) more times, dtr in top of next tr, turn leaving remaining 4 (4: 5: 5) shells unworked. [3 (4: 4: 5) shells and 2 dtr] Row 2 Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. [3 (4: 4: 5) shells and 2 dtr] Repeat Row 2 until length of Left Front matches Back, fasten off. RIGHT FRONT Ch44 (48: 52: 56). Work as for Back until work measures 38.5 (37.5: 37.5: 37.5)cm from starting chain, ending on a WS row. [10 (11: 12: 13) shells and 2 dtr]

ARMHOLE SHAPING Row 1 (RS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 shells, dtr in first tr of next shell, turn leaving remaining shells unworked. [8 (9: 10: 11) shells and 2 dtr] Row 2 (WS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), (dtr, ch2, tr) in first ch-2 sp, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Row 3 (RS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last (tr, ch2, dtr), dtr in last ch-2 sp, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Row 4 (WS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), skip next dtr, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. [7 (8: 9: 10) shells and 2 dtr] Row 5 Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of tch, turn. [7 (8: 9: 10) shells and 2 dtr] Repeat Row 5 until total length is approximately 6cm (2Âźin) shorter than Back, ending on a WS row.

NECKLINE SHAPING Row 1 (RS) Ss across first 4 (4: 5: 5) shells to 2nd dtr of 4th (4th: 5th: 5th) shell, ch4 Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

(counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of next tr, turn. [3 (4: 4: 5) shells and 2 dtr] Row 2 Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. [3 (4: 4: 5) shells and 2 dtr] Repeat Row 2 until length of Right Front matches Left Front and Back, fasten off. SLEEVES (BOTH ALIKE) Ch40 (44: 48: 52). Rows 1-11 Work as for Back 11 Rows. [9 (10: 11: 12) shells and 2 dtr]

SLEEVE SHAPING Row 12 (RS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), dtr in st at base of ch-4, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, 2dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Rows 13-15 Ch4 (counts as dtr), dtr in next dtr, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 dtr, dtr in next dtr, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Row 16 (RS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), 2dtr in next dtr, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from

* across to last 2 dtr, 2dtr in next dtr, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Rows 17-19 Ch4 (counts as dtr), dtr in each of next 2 dtr, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last 3 dtr, dtr in each of next 2 dtr, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Row 20 (RS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), 2dtr in next dtr, dtr in next dtr, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last 3 dtr, dtr in next dtr, 2dtr in next dtr, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. [9 (10: 11: 12) shells and 8 dtr] Rows 21-23 Ch4 (counts as dtr), dtr in each of next 3 dtr, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last 4 dtr, dtr in each of next 3 dtr, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Row 24 (RS) Ch4 (counts as dtr), shell in sp between next 2 dtr, skip next dtr, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last 4 dtr, skip next dtr, shell in sp between next 2 dtr, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. [11 (12: 13: 14) shells and 2 dtr] Row 25-27 Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 29


acy cardigan Row 28 (RS) Repeat Row 12. Row 29 (WS) Repeat Row 15. Row 30 (RS) Repeat Row 16. Row 31 (WS) Repeat Row 17. Row 32 (RS) Repeat Row 20. Row 33 (WS) Repeat Row 21. [11 (12: 13: 14) shells and 8 dtr]

SLEEVE CAP SHAPING Row 1 (RS) Ss across first 4 dtr and first shell to 2nd dtr of first shell, ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * 8 (9: 10: 11) more times, dtr in top of next tr, turn leaving last shell and 4 dtr unworked. [9 (10: 11: 12) shells and 2 dtr] Row 2 Ch4 (counts as dtr), (dtr, ch2, tr) in first ch-2 sp, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last shell, (dtr, ch2, tr) in last ch-2 sp, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Row 3 Ch4 (counts as dtr), dtr in first ch-2 sp, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last (tr, ch2, dtr), dtr in last ch-2 sp, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Row 4 Ch4 (counts as dtr), skip next dtr, *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 dtr, skip next dtr, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. [7 (8: 9: 10) shells and 2 dtr] Row 5 Ch4 (counts as dtr), *shell in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of tch, turn. [7 (8: 9: 10) shells and 2 dtr] Rows 6-9 (10: 10: 11) Repeat Row 5. Next Row Ch4 (counts as dtr), *(dtr, ch2, tr) in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, dtr in top of beg ch-4, turn. Next row Ch3 (counts as tr), *(tr, ch2, tr) in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * across, tr in top of beg ch-4, turn, fasten off. TO MAKE UP Pin Fronts and Back together with RS facing out. Sew together the side seams and the shoulder seams. Fold the Sleeves with RS facing out and sew the underarm seams. Mark the centre of the Sleeve Cap and pin to the shoulder seam. Pin the underarm seam to the side seams and ease the Sleeve Cap into the armhole opening, pinning as you go. Once pinned in place, sew the Sleeves to the Body of the Cardigan.

BORDER Round 1 (RS) With RS facing, join yarn at bottom corner to work along opposite side of starting ch, 2dc in first ch, dc in each ch of starting ch, working 2dc in last ch, turn to work into row ends, work 3dc in each row end up to neckline edge working an 30 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

extra dc into the corner, working around neckline, work 1dc in each st and 1dc in each ch-2 sp across to opposite neckline edge, work an extra dc into the corner, turn to work into row ends, work 3dc in each row down to hem, ss to first dc to join. Round 2 (RS) Ch1, dc in each dc around, working 3dc into each corner st, ss to first dc to join. Round 3 (RS) (buttonhole round) Ch1, dc in each dc to first corner, 3 dc in corner st, dc in each of next 6 dc, (ch3, skip 2 dc, dc in each of next 15 (16, 16, 17) dc) 5 times, ch3, skip 2 dc, dc in each st to corner, 3dc in corner st, dc in each remaining dc around, working 3dc into each corner st, ss to first dc to join.

Round 4 (RS) Ch1, dc in each dc around, working 3dc into each corner st and 2dc in each ch-3 sp, ss to first dc to join. Round 5 (RS) Repeat Round 2. Round 6 (RS) Ch1, reverse dc in each st around, ss to first dc to join, fasten off.

SLEEVE BORDER Round 1 (RS) With RS facing, join yarn at seam to work along opposite side of starting ch, dc in each ch of starting ch, ss to first dc to join. Rounds 2-5 (RS) Ch1, dc in each dc around, ss to first dc to join. Round 6 (RS) Ch1, reverse dc in each st around, ss to first dc to join, fasten off.

The sleeve caps are worked separately from the rest of the sleeves.


CROCHET BETWEEN THE LINES SHAWL By Tammy Canavan-Soldaat

NEW! Crochet Between the Lines Shawl, featuring Scheepjes yarn Available now as a printed pattern booklet or digital download* *Printed booklets available from Scheepjes suppliers. Digital versions available to download via Ravelry. RRP €1/£1.

Scheepjes Whirl: (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 215g/1000m) Scheepjes Frosted Whirl: (57% cotton, 38% acrylic, 5% Lurex polyester, 215g/1000m) Scheepjes Woolly Whirl: (30% wool, 70% cotton, 215g/1000m)

More patterns using Whirl yarn are available.

WWW.SCHEEPJES.COM


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h adband A BIT TRICKY DK WEIGHT

4MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Rowan Valley Tweed (100% wool, 50g/207m), 1 ball of Wolds Poppy (107) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook For yarn stockists contact Rowan 01484 950630 www.knitrowan.com

TENSION 16 sts and 14 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over front post treble crochet working in rounds

MEASUREMENTS 52x10cm (20x4in)

ABBREVIATIONS ftr (foundation treble crochet) Ch4, yrh, insert hook in fourth ch from hook, yrh and draw yarn through as for normal tr stitch, work an extra ‘ch1’ by putting yrh and drawing yarn through first loop on hook, complete as for a normal treble st; the next st will be worked into the ch-1 of the previous st, adding the extra ch1 at the same point if you are continuing in foundation treble FPhtr (Front Post htr) Yrh, starting from the back, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of st in row below, complete as a htr For a full list, see page 90

Head turner

Chase away the winter blues with a bright, stylish headband full of cosy texture. By Ilaria Caliri.

NOTES The main part of the headband is worked in one piece and in rounds, joining each round with a slip stitch. The stripe used to create the bow is worked in rows.

Treat yourself to a little bit of luxury with this rich, tweedy wool headband hooked in fabulous raised stitches. Create the stylish ribbed effect by working stitches in the posts for a textured look. BAND Leave a long starting tail for sewing. Round 1 Ch2 (count as first st throughout), 89ftr, ss to top of beg ch-2 to join in the round taking care not to twist, use the long starting tail to join the bottom of the first and last sts. [90 sts] Rounds 2-14 Ch2, 89FPtr, ss to top of beg ch-2. [90 sts] Round 15 Ch2, 89FPhtr, ss to top of beg ch-2. [90 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends.

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

STRIPE Ch8. Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook, dc in each of next 6 ch, turn. [7 sts] Rows 2-20 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each of next 7 sts, turn. [7 sts] Rotate Stripe to work into row ends, dc in each row end across, fasten off. With RS facing, join yarn to first row of other long edge, dc in each row end across, do not fasten off. TO MAKE UP Wrap Stripe around Band bringing last row up to first row, then ss together. Fasten off and weave in ends. Move Stripe around Band until it covers the join. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 33


C

het

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TWINKIE’S JOURNAL

o i d u t s e h t m o r ... f

Twinkie Chan’s biggest inspiration right now is a lack of time! So she’s loving crocheting small with her new build-your-own bento boxes.

“Som eone a sk ed m e to tu rn a crocheted French fry into a pin .”

A

to commemorate a food art that is meant to be eaten and not last forever. But as I crocheted my lunches, I felt a sort of warmth, and a longing for children I don’t have. Making lunches for someone else is not part of my real life, and I hoped that whoever bought my boxes would somehow know how much love and care went into each one.

HOME-PACKED LUNCH Bento is a single-portion takeout or home-packed lunch common in Japan. Traditionally, it may contain meat, fish, rice, and vegetables, and usually comes in a box-shaped container. Also an art form, many bentos can be lovingly arranged to look like popular cartoon characters or cute animals. I’m particularly fond of hot dogs that are shaped like little octopi. They’re just so silly, and I had such a fun time writing a pattern for them. I started crocheting bento boxes last year for an art show. I was surprised that the process became oddly emotional for me. At first, my motivation for crocheting these lunches was

DELECTABLE DISPLAYS After I made four bento boxes for the art show, I decided to build a full make-your-own bento box bar for Renegade Craft Fair here in San Francisco. People could assemble their own cute lunches with the food I had crocheted and take them home in takeout containers. It was a huge hit, and we really enjoyed watching both kids and adults arrange their boxes. This was also the first time that people kept asking me what the crocheted food was for, or what purpose it had. I usually sell scarves, mittens, hats, hair clips – things that have an obvious use, because I love people to incorporate crochet into their everyday lives. To crochet something simply for display and appreciation was new for me, and apparently new for my customers! But the neat thing about crocheting small

few months ago, I made a huge decision to take a full-time day job again. I’ve been an independent crochet designer for eight years, so the transition has been extremely surreal. I have a lot of new ideas for my signature scarves, but the reality is that I don’t have a lot of energy or time for designing new patterns. To keep myself motivated and crocheting, I’ve been setting smaller goals with smaller projects. Enter: crocheted bento boxes!

crocheting “The neat thing about hat you can turn them into almost anythi ng.”


“I have a lot of s!” dreaming up new lunche amigurumi is that you can turn them into almost anything you want. At the bento bar, I also offered options for turning the food pieces into magnets, pins, hair clips, or ornaments on the spot. My favourite moment was when someone asked me to turn a crocheted French fry into a pin, and she immediately pinned the happy little fry onto her cardigan. It was the cutest! A seemingly ‘useless’ item can be creatively turned into many useful items. TOP TIPS FOR TIME-POOR HOOKSTERS I continue to have a lot of fun dreaming up new lunches. It’s a bit of a self-indulgent project for me, rather than a businessminded one, but it feels good to take a breather and design projects that I just love. If you’re also feeling pressed for crochet time: 1) try to keep your goals or projects small, don’t put too much pressure on

yourself; 2) leave the house and go to a friend’s or to a coffee shop, as sometimes it’s helpful to force yourself away from the to-do list at home; 3) create a crocheting schedule, even if it’s for just once a week. I see my crochet time as ‘me time’ and my self-care, so it’s important to allow myself time for it, and I hope that you can, too! Make up one of Twinkie’s bento boxes for yourself by ordering the plastic box and her crocheted bento buddies from her Etsy shop, www.twinkiechan.etsy.com. You can keep up with Twinkie via her blog, www.twinkiechan.com

A look at my month I’ve had so much fun coming up with diffeent idea fo my bento buddie! Don’t they look cute netling in the boxe? Some of my fave include my octopu hot dog, broccoli floet, shimp tempua, and boiled egg chick and hen. You can find the patten at www.twinkiechan.ety.com if you want to make up you own bento box!


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mb ish an outfit

In the pink

Give an old jacket a new life with stop-the-traffic crochet inserts. By Sara Huntington and Lou Smith.

Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 41


mb ish an outfit EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED

A simple mesh stitch transforms this denim jacket from ‘meh’ to ‘wow’. Choose a well-fitting jacket (as old or cheap as you like) and a bold accent colour for the patches. You could even ‘line’ the patches by attaching fabric pieces behind the mesh for an extra layer of colour and warmth if you like. Rock chic, rock chick.

Q

Yarn and Colors Must-Have (100% mercerised cotton, 50g/125m), 2 balls of Deep Cerise (034) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A black denim jacket Q Tapestry needle Q Scissors Q A razor (for fraying edges) Q Glue gun or fabric glue For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

TENSION 6 ch-3 sp and 15 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over Mesh Stitch Pattern

MEASUREMENTS Right/Left Front Panels: 13x16.5cm (5x6½in) at widest points Upper Arm Panels: 11x15cm (4½x5¾in) Lower Arm Panels: 11x15cm (4½x5¾in) at widest points

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 90

MESH STITCH PATTERN Ch a multiple of 3 + 4 sts. Row 1 (RS) Dc in fourth ch from hook, *ch3, skip each of next 2 ch, dc in next ch, repeat from * to end, turn. Row 2 *Ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp, repeat from * to end making sure you work last dc in the very last ch-3 sp, turn. Row 2 forms pattern. FRONT PANELS (MAKE 2) Ch25. Row 1 (RS) Work Row 1 of Mesh Stitch Pattern. [8 dc and 8 ch-3 sp] Rows 2-12 Work Row 2 of Mesh Stitch Pattern 11 times. [8 dc and 8 ch-3 sp] Row 13 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), *dc in next ch-3 sp, ch3; repeat from * to end, turn. [8 dc and 7 ch-3 sp] Row 14 *Ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * to end, turn. [7 dc and 7 ch-3 sp] Rows 15-16 Repeat Row 14 twice more. Rows 17-19 Repeat Rows 14-16. Row 20 Repeat Row 14. Ch1 and dc evenly around edge of Panel, working 3dc in each corner. Ss in beg dc, fasten off and weave in ends. UPPER ARM PANELS (MAKE 4) Ch22. Row 1 (RS) Work Row 1 of Mesh Stitch Pattern. [7 dc and 7 ch-3 sp] Rows 2-20 Work Row 2 of Mesh Stitch Pattern 19 times. Ch1 and dc evenly around edge of Panel, working 3dc in each corner. Ss in beg dc, fasten off and weave in ends. LOWER ARM PANELS (MAKE 2) Ch19. Row 1 (RS) Work Row 1 of Mesh Stitch Pattern. [6 dc and 6 ch-3 sp] Rows 2-10 Work Row 2 of Mesh Stitch Pattern 9 times. Row 11 (Ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp) twice, (ch3, dc, ch3, dc) in next ch-3 sp, (ch3, dc in next ch-3 sp) three times. [7 ch-3 sp] Rows 12-20 Work Row 2 of Mesh Stitch Pattern 9 times.

42 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Fray the edges of the denim with a razor before attaching your Mesh Stitch patches.

Ch1 and dc evenly around edge of Panel, working 3dc in each corner. Ss in beg dc, fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Each hole you cut should measure 0.5cm smaller than the Panel that will fill it. Using sharp scissors, cut holes in the areas above the breast pockets of the jacket, following the shape of the jacket (using image as guide). Cut three holes in both sleeves, on the outer edge, approx 4cm apart from each other, following the shape of the sleeves (using image as guide). Using a razor, gently fray the edges of the holes by running the razor against the fabric. Turn jacket inside out and, one by one, position and pin each Panel to the matching hole. Once happy with positions, use a glue gun or fabric glue to secure each Panel in place. When applying the glue, spread it a few mm away from the edge of the hole and secure one edge of a Panel at a time. Allow to dry overnight before wearing.


Learn a new craft for the new year! With 164 pages of step-by-step tutorials and easy-to-follow patterns, Beginner’s Guide To Knitting & Crochet is the quickest way to get creative with yarn. From first stitches to beautiful finished projects, we’ll show you how! JUST

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Party animal You’ll need to be quick to grab the goodies with this toothy chap circling the table! By Ilaria Caliri.


amigurumi Shark A BIT TRICKY 4PLY WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Yarns and Colors Must-Have (100% mercerized cotton, 50g/125m), 1 ball of Yarn A Pacific Blue (067), small amounts of: Yarn B Silver (094) Yarn C Sunglow (013) Yarn D Peridot (083) Yarn E Pink Sand (040) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook Q A pair of 9mm safety eyes Q Black stranded cotton Q White sewing thread Q White felt for teeth Q Stitch markers Q Toy stuffing For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS 16cm (6¼in) long

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 90

There’s no need to be scared to go in the water with this cute little guy swimming around. Hooked in easy double crochet all round, with the odd half treble here and there, he’s the sweetest addition to any toy box. Who can resist his jawful of goofy teeth cut from white felt? They wouldn’t hurt a fly. We’ve made our shark using safety eyes, but if you’re making yours for a child under 36 months, make sure you embroider his eyes instead.

NOTES All pieces are worked using the amigurumi method. Work in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. The shark is worked in one piece from the nose to the tail. The belly and all the fins are sewn to the body afterwards. HEAD With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 (2dc, 2dc in next st) twice. [8 dc] Round 3 (3dc, 2dc in next st) twice. [10 dc] Round 4 (4dc, 2dc in next st) twice. [12 dc] Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [15 dc] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. MAIN BODY With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 (2dc in next st, dc) 3 times. [9 dc] Round 3 (2dc in next st, 2dc) 3 times. [12 dc]

Use pinking shears to cut a row of teeth for the shark from a small piece of white felt.

The shark’s gills are made from three long embroidery stitches in stranded cotton.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK DOUBLE CROCHET IN A SPIRAL

1 Make a foundation ring (see p91) and work the t-ch (1ch for dc). Now work 12 dc stitches into the ring, but do not join the last stitch and first stitch of this first round with a slip stitch.

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2 Instead, work the first dc stitch of the second round into the first stitch of the first round. To do this, insert the hook into the stitch, yrh, pull yarn through, yrh and pull the yarn through both loops.

3 You’ll now be working in a spiral. Continue to work more rounds of dc stitches in a spiral, according to your pattern instructions.

4 On the last round, after you’ve worked the last dc stitch, you’ll need to finish off the spiral with a slip stitch for a neat edge: insert the hook into the next stitch, yrh and pull through both loops. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 45


amigurumi shark Round 6 3dc, 1htr, 2tr in each of the next 2 sts, 1htr, 3dc. [12 dc] Round 7 3dc, 2htr, 2tr in each of the next 2 sts, 2htr, 3dc. [14 dc] Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.

Pop the shark’s stripy hat on top of his dorsal fin!

DORSAL FIN With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in next st, 5dc. [7 dc] Round 3 2dc in next st, 6dc. [8 dc] Round 4 (2dc, 3dc) twice. [10 dc] Round 5 (2dc, 4dc) twice. [12 dc] Round 6 (2dc, 5dc) twice. [14 dc] Round 7 (2dc, 6dc) twice. [16 dc] Round 8 (2dc, 7dc) twice. [18 dc] Round 9 (2dc, 8dc) twice. [20 dc] Round 10 (2dc, 9dc) twice. [22 dc] Round 11 Dc in each st around. [22 dc] Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.

Round 4 (2dc in next st, 3dc) 3 times. [15 dc] Round 5 (2dc in next st, 4dc) 3 times. [18 dc] Round 6 (2dc in next st, 5dc) 3 times. [21 dc] Round 7 (2dc in next st, 6dc) 3 times. [24 dc] Round 8 (2dc in next st, 7dc) 3 times. [27 dc] Round 9 (2dc in next st, 8dc) 3 times. [30 dc] The Lower Jaw is joined in the next round. Round 10 Hold the last round of the Lower Jaw close to Round 9, inserting the hook through both the sts of the Main Body and the Lower Jaw, dc in next 6 sts to join together, continue working around the Shark, (2dc in next st, 7dc) 3 times. [33 dc] Round 11 Working into the unworked sts of the Lower Jaw, dc in each of next 9 sts, continue working into sts of the Main Body, skipping join, dc in each of next 27 sts. [36 dc] Round 12 (2dc, 2 dc in next st) 3 times, (8dc, 2 dc in next st) 3 times. [42 dc] Round 13 Dc in each st around. [42 dc] Round 14 (13dc, 2 dc in next st) 3 times. [45 dc] Round 15 (14dc, 2 dc in next st) 3 times. [48 dc] Round 16 Dc in each st around. [48 dc] Round 17 (7dc, 2 dc in next st) 6 times. [54 dc] Secure the safety eyes between Rounds 13

46 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

and 14 on either side of the head, using the image as a guide. Start stuffing the Shark and continue stuffing as you go. Round 18-30 Dc in each st around. [54 dc] Round 31 (7dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [48 sts] Round 32 Dc in each st around. [48 dc] Round 33 (6dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [42 sts] Round 34 Dc in each st around. [42 dc] Round 35 (5dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [36 sts] Round 36 Dc in each st around. [36 dc] Round 37 (4dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [30 sts] Round 38 Dc in each st around. [30 dc] Round 39 (3dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [24 sts] Round 40 (2dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 41 (Dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 sts] Round 42 10dc, dc2tog. [11 sts] Round 43 9dc, dc2tog. [10 sts] Round 44 8dc, dc2tog. [9 sts] Round 45 7dc, dc2tog. [8 sts] Round 46 (2dc, dc2tog) twice. [6 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. TAIL With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in next st, 5dc. [7 dc] Round 3 2dc in next st, 6dc. [8 dc] Round 4 2dc in next st, 7dc. [9 dc] Round 5 2dc in next st, 8dc. [10 dc]

SIDE FINS (MAKE 2) With Yarn A, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6 dc] Round 2 2dc in next st, 5dc. [7 dc] Round 3 2dc in next st, 6dc. [8 dc] Round 4 (2dc, 3dc) twice. [10 dc] Round 5 (2dc, 4dc) twice. [12 dc] Round 6 3dc, 2htr, 2tr in each of the next 2 sts, 2htr, 3dc. [14 dc] Round 7 4dc, 2htr, 2tr in each of the next 2 sts, 2htr, 4dc. [16 dc] Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. BELLY With Yarn B, ch6. Round 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each of next 3 ch, 5dc in last ch, rotate to work along opposite side of starting chain, dc in each of next 3 ch, 4dc in next st. [16 dc] Round 2 (5dc, 2dc in next 3 sts) twice. [22 dc] Round 3 *5dc, (2dc in next st, dc) 3 times; repeat from * once more. [28 dc] Round 4 *5dc, (2dc in next st, 2dc) 3 times; repeat from * once more. [34 dc] Round 5 *5dc, (2dc in next st, 3dc) 3 times; repeat from * once more. [40 dc] Round 6 *5dc, (2dc in next st, 4dc) 3 times; repeat from * once more. [46 dc] Round 7 *5dc, (2dc in next st, 5dc) 3 times; repeat from * once more. [52 dc] Round 8 *5dc, (2dc in next st, 6dc) 3 times;


amigurumi Shark repeat from * once more. [58 dc] Round 9 *5dc, (2dc in next st, 7dc) 3 times; repeat from * once more. [64 dc] Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. PARTY HAT Using Yarn C, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop [6 dc] Round 2 Change to Yarn D, (2dc, 2dc in next st) twice. [8 dc] Round 3 Change to Yarn C, (3dc, 2dc in next st) twice. [10 dc] Round 4 Change to Yarn D, (4dc, 2dc in next st) twice. [12 dc] Round 5 Change to Yarn C, (3dc, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [15 dc] Round 6 Change to Yarn D, (4dc, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [18 dc] Round 7 Change to Yarn C, (5dc, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [21 dc] Round 8 Change to Yarn D, (6dc, 2dc in next st) 3 times. [24 dc] Round 9 Change to Yarn C, dc in each st around. [24 dc] Round 10 Change to Yarn D, dc in each st around. [24 dc] Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. POMPOM With Yarn E, make a magic loop. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop [6 dc] Rounds 2-3 Dc in each st around. [6 dc] Fasten off leaving a tail of yarn for sewing the pompom on top of the hat. TO MAKE UP Using black stranded cotton, stitch 3 long

For the shark’s belly, start with a chain of 6 sts and crochet around both sides of the chain.

stitches alongside each eye. Using a piece of white felt fabric, cut a long and narrow stripe and make tiny teeth using pinking shears or very sharp scissors. Stitch the teeth to the upper part of his mouth using white sewing thread. Using the image as a guide, sew the Tail onto the Shark’s Body, then stitch the Dorsal Fin onto the Shark’s back between Rounds 20 and 31. Sew Side Fins onto each side of the body between Round 20 and Round 27. Sew the Belly to the underside of the Shark.

His cute little party hat is worked in stripes and topped off with a crocheted pompom.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO DECREASE IN DOUBLE CROCHET (DC2TOG)

1 Start by inserting the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row. Begin to work a double crochet stitch in the usual way, working yrh and pull loop through (2 loops on hook).

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2 Without finishing the first dc, begin the next dc by inserting the hook in the next stitch on the previous row. Again, work yrh and pull loop through (3 loops on hook).

3 Now complete both dc stitches together by working yrh and pull this loop through all 3 loops on the hook.

4 This is how your completed dc2tog should look. You will have neatly decreased one stitch. On subsequent rows, you can simply work a stitch into the top of the dc2tog stitch as usual.

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Psst

o bold w yo u  fav ith o accent co u  ite lo u !


mock cab sw at r

Cable girl

Show off your skills with this wonderfully chunky cropped sweater by Amanda Crawford.

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mock cab sw at r GO PRO CHUNKY WEIGHT

6MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky (100% acrylic, 100g/136m) Yarn A Slate Grey (305) Yarn B Misty Grey (303) Yarn C Lime Green (328) See table for yarn amounts and measurements Q A 6mm (US J/10) hook For yarn stockists contact Paintbox Yarns www.paintboxyarns.com and www.lovecrochet.com

TENSION 12 tr to measure 10cm (4in) and 2 pattern repeats to measure 8cm (3¼in) over pattern

ABBREVIATIONS FPdtr Yrh twice, starting at the front, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated st, complete as for dtr Surface crochet With RS facing, working yarn in front of work, and starting from the first st of row, *insert hook around post of next st directly under the top loops, from front to back to front again, yrh and draw through both loops (as a sl st); repeat from * across row Mock cable Feed the second cable loop through the first, then the third through the second and so on until the last one, secure the last cable into the seam when finishing For a full list, see page 92

The slight peplum shaping to the bottom of this sweater is incredibly flattering; just layer it up with a fitted cami or long-line tee underneath. Mix up your acid brights for an added splash of fashion fun!

FRONT & BACK

b

NOTES The sweater is worked in rows from the hem up. Carry unused colour up the side. BACK

WAISTBAND Using Yarn C, ch60 (66: 72: 78: 84). Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn, fasten off. [59 (65: 71: 77: 83) sts] Row 2 (RS) Join Yarn B in first st, dc in each st across, turn. Row 3 (WS) Ch3 (counts as first tr throughout), tr in each dc across, turn. Row 4 Ch3, 1tr in next st, *FPdtr around next st, tr in each of next 2 sts; rep from * across, turn. Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Row 6 Ch3, 1tr in next st, *FPdtr around next FPdtr, skip dc behind FPdtr, tr in next 2 sts; rep from * across, turn. Row 7 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Repeat Rows 6-7, 2 more times.

MAIN STITCH PATTERN Row 12 (RS) Surface crochet across last row, turn. Row 13 (WS) Change to Yarn A, ch3, tr in each dc across, turn. Row 14 (RS) Ch3, tr in next st and each st across, turn.

8-10

SIZE TO FIT BUST ACTUAL BUST (APPROX)

a

Width a: 49 (52: 59: 64: 69)cm 19¼ (21¼: 23¼: 25¼: 27¼)in Sleeve Length b: 48cm 19in Length c: 52 (52: 56: 56: 60)cm 20½ (20½: 22: 22: 23¾)in

Row 15 Using Yarn B, ch1, dc across. Rows 12-15 form pattern, repeat these rows 9 (9: 10: 11: 12) more times. Fasten off. FRONT

WAISTBAND Work Waistband as for Back.

MAIN STITCH PATTERN Row 12 (RS) Surface crochet across next 24 (27: 30: 33: 36) sts, (ch12, surface crochet across next 6 sts) twice, ch12, surface crochet across to end. Row 13 (WS) Change to Yarn A, ch3, tr in each dc across. Row 14 Ch3, tr in next st and each st across. Row 15 Using Yarn B, ch1, dc across. Rows 12-15 form pattern, repeat these rows 4

12-14

16-18

20-22

22-26

cm

81-86

91-97

102-107

112-117

122-127

in

32-34

36-38

40-42

44-46

48-50

cm

98

108

118

128

138

in

38½

42½

46½

50½

54½

cm

52

52

56

56

60

in

20½

20½

22

22

23¾

cm

48

48

48

48

48

in

19

19

19

19

19

YARN A SLATE GREY

100g

4

5

5

6

6

YARN B MISTY GREY

100g

4

4

5

5

6

YARN C LIME GREEN

100g

2

1

1

1

1

LENGTH

SLEEVE LENGTH

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column. 50 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

c


mock cab sw at r Work an extra two-stripe section on the body if you’d prefer a hip-length style.

(4: 4: 5: 5) more times. Fasten off.

NECKLINE SHAPING LEFT FRONT Row 1 (RS) Work in pattern across 28 (31: 34: 37: 40) sts, turn leaving rem sts unworked. Row 2 (WS) Work in pattern across, turn. Row 3 Work in pattern to last st, leave last st unworked, turn. [Decrease by 1 st] Repeat Rows 2-3, 8 (8: 10: 10: 12) more times, then Row 2 once more. (19 (22: 23: 26: 27) sts] Fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT With RS facing, skip centre 3 sts and rejoin yarn in next st. Row 1 (RS) Work in pattern across rem 28 (31: 34: 37: 40) sts, turn. Row 2 (WS) Work in pattern to last st, leave last st unworked, turn. [Decrease by 1 st] Row 3 Work in pattern in each st across, turn. Repeat Rows 2-3, 8 (8: 10: 10: 12) more times, then Row 3 once more. (19 (22: 23: 26: 27) sts] Fasten off.

SEW SHOULDER SEAMS Using Yarn B, join Back to Front at shoulders with ss. SLEEVES (BOTH ALIKE) Using Yarn C, ch33 (36: 36: 39: 39). Work cuff as Waistband of Back. Row 11 (WS) Surface crochet across, turn. (32 (35: 35: 38: 38) sts] Row 12 (RS) Change to Yarn A, ch3, tr in dc across to last st, 2 tr in last st. [Increase 2 sts] Row 13 Ch3, tr in next st and each st across. Row 14 Using Yarn B, ch1, 2dc in first st, dc across to last st, 2dc in last st. [Increase 2 sts] Repeat Rows 11-14, 3 times, then Rows 11-12 once more. [50 (53: 53: 56: 56) sts] Cont in patt without shaping (as Back) until 9 full reps of patt have been worked. Fasten off.

COLLAR With RS facing and Yarn B, work 28 (30: 29: 31: 30) dc evenly up right front of Neck opening, 22 (21: 26: 25: 30) dc across back neck, 28 (30: 29: 31: 30) dc evenly down left front. [78 (81: 84: 87: 90) dc] Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Work collar as for Back Waistline until Collar measures 12cm. Fasten off. Next row Join Yarn C, dc in each st across Last row Surface crochet in each st across. Fasten off. TO FINISH Sew in Sleeves by folding in half and marking centre point. Place centre point of sleeve at shoulder seam and sew evenly to body. Sew side seams and continue seam across sleeve underarm. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 51


GOOD READ The Golden Girls (1985-1992) get together over one of their famous cheesecakes!

POP CULTURE CROCHET

Allison Hoffman celebrates on-screen characters through irresistible amigurumi.

A

ny die-hard crocheter knows that a family who are happy to live in a sea of yarn helps enormously. “I’m blessed to have an understanding family,” says Allison Hoffman, who is based in Austin, Texas. “I’ve transformed the dining room into my office and craft room.” Allison painted the walls grey and got to work personalising it. “I added stencilling on the wall, bright pops of colour in the furniture, and I’ve covered the walls with framed prints from my favourite artists, known mostly for their poster art inspired by pop culture, like my work!” she says. The showstopper in the room is Allison’s yarn wall. “One whole wall is covered in a pegboard and lots and lots of pegs. My balls of yarn are arranged rainbow style.” 52 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

A long-term craft-lover, Allison first discovered the joys of amigurumi while browsing Etsy one day. “I saw the word ‘amigurumi’ and had to look it up,” she recalls. “I bought yarn, a hook and a crochet book and figured it out from there. When I learned how to do the magic ring it was a real moment,” she says. “I use it each and every time I crochet in the round.” A BRAND NEW WORLD Allison wanted to try making her own designs. “I thought: I can do this,” she says. “My kids were really into Yo Gabba Gabba, a kids’ show that was popular a few years ago, but there were no toys at all, so I made my own. I wrote down the patterns and started sharing them for free online.”

As she got into making more and more characters from television and movies, it became clear that Allison needed an outlet for her makes. “My husband encouraged me to start selling my own designs,” says Allison. “I was a stay-at-home mom at the time, so a few extra dollars a day for crochet patterns really helped. Of course, it all went back into buying yarn and crochet books!” Favourite shows she’s paid homage to in yarn include Dr Who, The Golden Girls, and eerie Netflix original Stranger Things. “I’ve really only done people I have a special affinity for or that spark nostalgia within my pop culture-loving soul,” she says. “If someone is especially unique looking, like Prince, or Pee-wee Herman, all the better!” She’s even won a few celebrity fans for her


GOOD READ

From left to right: Dr Who and friends get ready for a trip in the TARDIS; a great gift for Prince fans; American chat show host, Conan O’Brien. work, with American chat show host Conan O’Brien saying of Allison, “She is to crochet what Tupac is to rap.” Allison laughs. “It’s funny how people get into them. It’s like when someone draws a caricature of you, and there’s that fun moment you see it for the first time and you think, ‘Wow, that really does look like me!’” She believes that her chosen medium contributes to the appeal. “Yarn is just inherently soft and cuddly and cute, so there’s an ‘ah’ factor too.” Allison loves to sample different yarns to get the best possible results. “I’ve recently been using a lot of finer gauge yarn, after crocheting almost exclusively with worsted weight,” she says. “The tiny things you can make and the details you can get out of the lighter weight yarns and smaller hook is really appealing to me.” LOOKY LIKEY Allison is also open to creating custom dolls of anyone who fancies a mini-me. With the work involved necessitating prices that start from $250 for 10-11in, standard-size dolls and $150 for pets, she was keen to come up with a more cost-effective option. As a result, another popular element of her design work is amigurumi family portraits, which double up as year-round ornaments.“The idea for the portraits came from wanting to make something attainable for everyone,” she says. “Creating a full-sized doll takes a lot of time, and is costly, so making a series of smaller ornaments gives everyone a chance to get in on the action.” Working from photographs, they are among Allison’s favourite challenges. “They are so much fun to make. I get to mainly concentrate on the hair and face, which is my favourite part of making any doll,” she says.

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“Last Christmas I was able to make lots of them as surprise presents for people.” These included the family of crochet designer Vickie Howell. “Her younger son Tristan is notoriously not into cutesy stuff. When he saw his little ornament he gave the teenager’s seal of approval – ‘Cool!’” It’s no wonder that Allison’s patterns have found their way into book form, with AmiguruME and AmiguruME Pets. “Since I got so many requests for doll patterns for so many different types of people, I thought, why don’t I just knock them all out in one book, that can be used to make literally ANYONE you could dream up?” she says. “All of the pieces are mix and match, pick and choose, so the sky really is the limit on what you can make out of either of them.” As well as television and film, Allison loves to source inspiration online including from craft blogs. “I love the cool craftiness of Jennifer Perkins (www.jenniferperkins.com) and Vickie Howell (www.vickiehowell.com), and I can never get enough of Lucy at Attic24 (www.attic24.typepad.com). Her colours are awe-inspiring.”

Learning to identify when she needs to shake up her crochet practice has been essential. “My most costly mistakes have been really due to my mental state,” she explains. “I have got burnt out at times. The usual reason is when I commit to making something over and over, reproducing the same doll. It is worth the effort but I get in a rut. Crocheting something different – like a cool scarf or something that is not my pattern – helps me ease out of it.” In fact, Allison is already taking steps to introduce more variety into her crochet time. “I’m currently working on my third book,” she says. “I’ve done people, pets, and now I’m doing something totally different – food! It’s going to have a few fun twists. I can’t wait for you to see it.” She’s also recently moved to the other side of the camera lens. “I filmed a cute video short for Netflix and shot an episode on a new show coming up on YouTube – The Knit Show with Vickie Howell.” We love the idea that Allison’s passion for pop culture is making her part of our multimedia world! Written by Judy Darley

“I GET TO CONCENTRATE ON THE HAIR AND FACE, MY FAVOURITE PART OF MAKING A DOLL.”

A few of her favourite things When Allison puts down her hook…

“When I’m not crocheting I’m usually reading or watching TV shows such as Hamilton’s America on PBS, which is all about Hamilton’s Musical, a hit Broadway show based on Alexander Hamilton, one of America’s founding fathers. I’ve designed patterns for each of the characters from the show. I also watch true crime shows on Netflix. I love a good mystery!” Find out more about Allison at www.craftyiscool.com

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In the line up Turn heads with this arresting two-tone scarf by Tuula Kryola.


GRAPHIC SCARF EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

4MM 5MM

Oh-so fashionable grey forms the treble background for this striking scarf. The standout geometric surface crochet is added by forming chains along the spaces left in the clever (but simple) scarf pattern.

NOTE

YOU WILL NEED Q

DROPS Cotton Merino (50% cotton, 50% wool, 50g/110m), 6 balls of Grey (19) Q DROPS Alaska (100% wool, 50g/70m), 1 ball of Off White (02) Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

TENSION 17 sts and 9 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over treble crochet using a 4mm hook

MEASUREMENTS 30x160cm (12x63in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 90

The pink cardigan, available in hibiscus (shown), petrol and black is ‘Marta’ by Gudrun Sjoden Designs (RRP £99). Visit www. gudrunsjoden.com

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The start and end of each row is worked in a clever way to ensure straight edges – each row starts with: ch2, (which is not counted as a st), tr in st at base of ch-2, and ends with: tr2tog in last st. SCARF Using 4mm hook and Grey, ch52. Row 1 (RS) Ch2 (not counted as st), tr in 3rd st from hook, (tr in each of next 4 sts, ch1, skip 1 st) twice, tr in each of next 10 sts, ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 8 sts, ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 10 sts, (ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 4 sts) twice, tr2tog in last st, turn. [52 sts] Row 2 Ch2 (not counted as st), tr in st at base of ch-2, (tr in each of next 4 sts, ch1, skip 1 st) twice, tr in each of next 8 sts, ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 12 sts, ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 8 sts, (ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 4 sts) twice, tr2tog in last st, turn. Row 3 Ch2 (not counted as st), tr in st at base of ch-2, (tr in each of next 4 sts, ch1, skip 1 st) twice, tr in each of next 6 sts, ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 16 sts, ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 6 sts, (ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 4 sts) twice, tr2tog in last st, turn. Row 4 Ch2 (not counted as st), tr in st at base of ch-2, (tr in each of next 4 sts, ch1, skip 1 st) 3 times, tr in each of next 20 sts, (ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 4 sts) 3 times, tr2tog in last st, turn. Row 5 Ch2 (not counted as st), tr in st at base of ch-2, (tr in each of next 4 sts, ch1, skip 1 st) twice, tr in each of next 2 sts, ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 24 sts, ch1, skip 1 st, tr in each of next 2 sts, (ch1, skip 1 st,

The straight lines and chevrons are made by surface crocheting on to the background.

tr in each of next 4 sts) twice, tr2tog in last st, turn. Row 6 As Row 4. Row 7 As Row 3. Row 8 As Row 2. Rows 1-8 form the pattern. Repeat Rows 1-8 another 18 times. Fasten off. SURFACE CROCHET

STRAIGHT LINES Using 5mm hook and Off White, place a slip knot onto hook and join to edge, at base of one ch-sp column. Keep the working yarn and your left hand underneath your work, *insert hook into next ch-sp, yrh and pull a loop through to front, ch1, always keeping the yarn underneath work; rep from * for the whole length of scarf. Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for the 3 remaining straight lines.

ZIGZAG LINES Work 2 zigzag lines following instructions as given above for Straight Lines, except at each corner ch-sp of zigzag work ch-2 in replacement of ch-1. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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The Knitting Room is not only a yarn store, it’s a community of crafters. We are Ireland’s premier destination for classes. We run beginners to advanced crochet workshops, for both adults and children. Our tutors are highly skilled and the classes are held in a fun and supportive environment. Our shop offers a wide range of yarn, packs and accessories.

NEXT CLASS PROJECT

Packs available in store or online at - www.theknittingroom.ie

99 Malahide Road, Donnycarney, Dublin D03 DY27 • +353 (0)1 831 4464 info@theknittingroom.ie • theknittingroomdublin.wordpress.com • theknittingroom.ie

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sia Yarn k n Ba DESIGN • CREATE • INSPIRE

2WQV ][ NWZ W]Z ÅZ[\ JQZ\PLIa I\ \PM VM`\ *1/ +ZWKPM\ ;\IaI_Ia IVL QVL]TOM QV I _MMSMVL WN ZMTI`I\QWV KZWKPM\ IVL KZIN\[ QV \PM OWZOMW][ )V[\Ma /ZW^M *IZV 0MZ\NWZL[PQZM 2nd-4th March 2018 £490 NWZ I [QVOTM ZWWU £750 NWZ I \_QV ZWWU £90 NWZ I LIa XI[[ 8ZQKM QVKT]LM[ \_W VQOP\[ IKKWUUWLI\QWV UMIT[ _WZS[PWX[ aIZV IVL I OWWLa JIO Payments can be made in instalments.

komodokrafts.com/bigcrochetstayaway

We post internationally from Australia.

We stock a range of quality Australian & UK yarns.

3c East Market St, Richmond, NSW 2753, Australia

banksiayarns.com.au

To advertise with us in this section contact Ali Johnson

Ali.Johnson@immediate.co.uk or call 0117 300 8536


Coastal stripes Add some pizzazz to your space with this beautiful blanket in cool shades. By Becky Schooley.


stripy B ANK T EASY PEASY 4PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply (75% wool, 25% nylon, 100g/400m), 5 balls of Yarn A Kingfisher (844) 3 balls of Yarn B Milk Bottle (010) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook For yarn stockists contact West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com

TENSION 9 blocks and 9 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in)

MEASUREMENTS 106x131cm (41¾x51½in) (including edging)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

Never tried C2C construction before? Start here. Once you get the hang of this pretty repeat pattern you’ll love hooking the stripes, and you have a treat in store as the wool blend includes luxurious Bluefaced Leicester, making this a sumptuous blanket to snuggle up in.

NOTES This pattern is worked using a ‘corner-tocorner’ (C2C) construction in blocks of (ch3, 3tr) in same sp. Each ‘row’ is made up of a diagonal row of blocks, starting with 1 block in the bottom right corner, increasing to 2 blocks in the next row, 3 blocks in the next, and so on. When the straight edge of the left-hand side reaches the width required, the construction changes slightly to work 1 fewer block on each row at the top edge of the blanket while continuing to increase 1 block per row along the bottom edge until the bottom edge is the required length. You then work 1 fewer block on each row, working back towards the top right corner. You will need to both turn and rotate the work at the start of each new row of blocks. Change colour on yrh of last ss of row. When you ss into next block, skip the 3 tr and ss into the space created by the ch3 (worked at the start of the block on previous row). BLANKET Using Yarn A, ch6.

INCREASE ROWS

Complete the edging all round in dc to give a neat, professional finish to the blanket. 58 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Row 1 (RS) Tr in fourth ch from hook, tr in each of next 2 ch (1 block made), turn. [1 C2C block] Row 2 Ch6, tr in fourth ch from hook, tr in each of next 2 ch (1 block made), skip 3 tr of next block to left of hook, and ss into sp before ch-3, (the 2 blocks are now touching, with the first block of Row 2 sitting on top of the block from Row 1), (ch3, 3tr) in same sp (2nd block made), turn. [2 C2C blocks] Row 3 Ch6, tr in fourth ch from hook, tr in each of next 2 ch (1 block made), *skip 3 tr of next block to left of hook and ss into sp before ch-3 (the first block of Row 3 is now sitting on top of the last block from Row 2), (ch3, 3tr) in same sp; rep from * once more (3rd block made), turn. [3 C2C blocks] Row 4 Ch6, tr in fourth ch from hook, tr in each of next 2 ch (1 block made), *skip 3 tr of next block to left of hook and ss in sp before ch-3, (ch3, 3tr) in same sp (2nd

block made); rep from * to end, turn. [4 C2C blocks] Change to Yarn B and when changing colour, do not cut yarn. Loosely carry colours up the side, being careful to not pull or distort your work. You will crochet over this later. Rows 5 and 6 Rep Row 4 twice. [6 C2C blocks after Row 6] Change to Yarn A. Rep Row 4, maintaining the striped colour sequence of 4 rows Yarn A and 2 rows Yarn B, until you have 95 blocks.

STRAIGHT ROWS Row 96 Ss in each of next 3 tr and ss into sp before ch-3 sp (to decrease 1 block) *(ch3, 3tr) in same space, skip 3 tr of next block and ss into sp before ch-3; rep from * to end and work (ch3, 3tr) in last block, turn. [95 blocks] Row 97 Ch6, tr in fourth ch from hook, tr in each of next 2 ch (1 block made), *skip 3 tr of next block and ss into sp before ch-3, (ch3, 3tr) in same sp (2nd block made); rep from * to last block, skip 3 tr of last block and ss into sp before ch-3 (do not make another block), turn. [95 blocks maintained]. Rep Rows 96-97, maintaining the striped colour sequence, for another 20 rows and maintaining 95 blocks on every row.

DECREASE ROWS Row 118 Ss in each of next 3 tr and ss into sp before ch-3, *(ch3, 3tr) in same sp, skip 3 tr of next block and ss into sp before ch-3; rep from * to last block, skip 3 tr of last block and ss into space before ch-3 (do not make another block), turn. [94 blocks] Rep Row 118 to end, until 1 block remains. Fasten off.

EDGING Round 1 (RS) With RS facing, join Yarn B to last ch-3 sp of final block, 5dc in same sp to make corner, *dc in every vertical tr, 2dc in every horizontal tr to next corner, 5dc in corner; rep from * around, ss into first dc to join. Round 2 Ch1 (not counted as st), *2htr in each of 5 corner dc (to make 10 sts in corner), htr in every st to next 5-dc corner; rep from * around and ss in first htr. Fasten off and weave in ends. TO FINISH Pin out blanket and block to measurements given.


Win the yan to make the winning project! Ente by voting fo you favouite on Intagram #hooktohook @simplycochet win

hook to hook

We’re smitten

We challenged two designers to come up with a fab design, each using the same yarn… which is your fave?

Nicole Riley Nicole is the designer and blogger behind nickishomemadecrafts. com. “When I first saw the colours of this yarn, the red reminded me of hearts and the yellow of the sunshine. I wanted my design to express love, peace and joy by having the hearts, as crocheted knit stitches, fly up towards the sun, filling the air with warmth and happiness. I used a stitch that looks like it was knitted as, even though we may seem one way, only the people that truly know us will know what our hearts really feel.”

Liliana Buce Crochet designer Liliana’s best love is making mandalas and she says her style is bright, fun and modern. She told us: “Making these mittens was great fun and working with Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Tonals was a pleasure. The yarn made my simple mittens interesting. To design something uncomplicated, yet not boring is always a challenge and I hope I delivered well. I wanted to come up with something fun, but not childish and the yarn helped me accomplish that for sure.”

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hook to hook

Psst Ca hm ee and m eino ! wool fo  supe  soft hand

Clockwise from above left: when it’s arctic out there we need to wrap up warm but Nicole’s design means we don’t have to give up on looking good; the rib cuffs are dcs worked into the back loop; Nicole tried a few different ideas before she settled on her flying hearts design.

flying hearts gloves Keep your mitts warm and toasty with these cheerful gloves designed by Nicole Riley. The cashmere and merino wool blend in the yarn means they will feel super soft to wear too. Q Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran Tonals

(55% wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere, 50g/90m) 1 ball of Yarn A Chestnut (09) 2 balls of Yarn B Gold (03) Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook

TENSION 16 sts and 20 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over waistcoat stitches using a 5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Each glove measures 24x11.5cm (9½x4½in) across palm

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ABBREVIATIONS Wst (waistcoat stitch): insert hook between the ‘v’ created by the 2 vertical strands of the st below, yrh and complete as for dc Wst2tog insert hook between the ‘v’ created by the 2 vertical strands of the st below, insert hook between the ‘v’ of the next st, yrh and pull through 3 loops For a full list, see page 90

NOTES The pattern is worked using the amigurumi method. Work stitches continuously in a spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work. When changing colour mid-row in Rows 6-11, twist the ends of the two colours together. Pick up the new colour in the last yrh of the previous stitch. Carry the unused strands of yarn across the WS of the work.

GLOVES

CUFF Using Yarn A, ch8. Row 1 (RS) Dc in each ch to end, turn. [7 sts] Row 2-26 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in bl of each st across, turn, do not fasten off. [7 sts] Fold the ribbing in half, work a ss seam to join the ends together to make a loop. Turn so that ss seam is on the WS and rotate to begin working into row ends. Round 1 Ch1, work 35 dc evenly around the top of the ribbing, do not join. [35 sts] Rounds 2-4 Wst in each st around. [35 sts] Round 5 (Wst in each of next 6 sts, 2wst in next st) 5 times. [40 sts] Round 6 (1wst in Yarn B, 1wst in Yarn A, 1wst in Yarn B, 4wst in Yarn A, 1wst in Yarn B) 5 times. Round 7 (1wst in Yarn B, 3wst in Yarn A, 1wst in Yarn B, 2wst in Yarn A, 1wst in Yarn B) 5 times. Round 8 (2wst in Yarn B, 1wst in Yarn A,


hook to hook

From left: after several sketches, Nicole decided to go with this one which uses a clever motif to symbolise hearts flying up to the sun; the pretty marled effect of the Cashmerino Aran Tonals yarn adds interest to blocks of colour and makes the individual stitches really stand out.

1wst in Yarn B, 2wst in Yarn A, 1wst in Yarn B, 1wst in Yarn A) 5 times. Round 9 (1wst in Yarn A, 1wst in Yarn B, 2wst in Yarn A, 1wst in Yarn B, 1wst in Yarn A, 2wst in Yarn B) 5 times. Round 10 (3wst in Yarn B, 2wst in Yarn A, 2wst in Yarn B, 1wst in Yarn A) 5 times. Round 11 (1wst in Yarn B, 1wst in Yarn A, 1wst in Yarn B, 2wst in Yarn A, 3wst in Yarn B) 5 times, fasten off Yarn A. [40 sts] Round 12 Continue with Yarn B, ch5, skip 5 sts (thumbhole made), 1wst in each st around. [5ch, 35 sts] Round 13 Dc in each of the next 5 ch, 1wst in the next st, wst2tog, (6wst, wst2tog) 4 times. [35 sts] Round 14-22 1wst in each st around. Round 23 (6wst, 2wst in next st) 5 times. [40 sts]

INDEX FINGER Round 1 1wst in next 5 sts, skip 30 sts, 1wst in next 5 sts. [10 sts] Round 2 -14 1wst in each st around. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Round 15 wst2tog 5 times, fasten off. [5 sts]

MIDDLE FINGER Round 1 Join Yarn A in next (6th) unworked st of Round 23, ch1, 1wst in next 5 sts, skip 20 sts, 1wst in next 5 sts. [10 sts] Round 2-16 1wst in each st around. Round 17 wst2tog 5 times, fasten off. [5 sts]

RING FINGER Round 1 Join Yarn A in next (11th) unworked st of Round 23, ch1, 1wst in next 5 sts, skip 10 sts, 1wst in next 5 sts. [10 sts] Round 2-15 Repeat Rounds 2-15 of Index Finger.

LITTLE FINGER Round 1 Join Yarn A in next (16th) unworked st of Round 23, ch1, 1wst in next 10 sts. [10 sts] Round 2-9 1wst in each st around. Round 10 Wst2tog 5 times, fasten off. [5 sts]

THUMB Round 1 Join Yarn A in first skipped st of Round 12, ch1, 1wst in next 5 sts, 1wst in to corner, working into opposite side of ch-5 sp, 1wst in next 5 ch, 1wst in to corner. [12 sts] Round 2-13 1 wst in each st around. Round 14 wst2tog 6 times, fasten off. [6 sts]

two-tone mittens

Liliana Buce’s cosy mittens will keep your hands warm, and add a stylish colour combo to your winter attire. Q Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran Tonals (55% wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere, 50g/90m) 1 ball of Yarn A Chestnut (09) 2 balls of Yarn B Gold (03) Q A 4.5mm (US 7) hook Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook Q A stitch marker WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 61


hook to hook

Clockwise from left: the groups of treble stitches give lots of interesting texture to the cuffs of the mittens; we take a peek into Liliana’s sketchbook to see her original design for the mitts; half treble stitches in the upper part of the mitts are worked into spaces between stitches.

TENSION 12 htr and 11 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) using a 5mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Each mitt measures 29x12cm across palm (11½x4¾cm)

NOTES The main body of the gloves is worked using the amigurumi method. Work stitches in a continuous spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful to place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you work. All stitches in the main body are worked into the spaces between stitches. MITTS Using a 4.5mm hook and Yarn A, ch24, ss to first ch to join in a loop, being careful not to twist chain. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as a st), dc in each ch around, ss to first dc to join. [24 dc] Round 2 Ss in fl of each st around. Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in bl of each st in Round 1, ss to first dc to join. [24 dc] 62 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

Rounds 4-8 Ch2 (does not count as st), tr2tog, ch2, (tr3tog, ch2) 7 times, ss into the top of the first tr2tog to join, fasten off. Round 9 Using a 5mm hook, join Yarn B in top of first tr2tog, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same st, dc in each ch and st around, do not join. [24 dc] Round 10 Htr in each dc around. Rounds 11-15 Htr in sp between stitches around. [24 sts] Round 16 (Htr in each of next 2 sps, 2htr in next sp) 8 times. [32 sts]. Rounds 17-18 Htr in sp between stitches around. [32 sts] Round 19 Skip 8 sps for thumbhole, htr in sp between stitches around [24 sts]. Rounds 20-27 Htr in sp between stitches around. [24 sts] Round 28 (Htr in each of next 2 sps), htr2tog) 6 times. [18 sts] Round 29 (Htr in next sp), htr2tog) 6 times. [12 sts] Round 30 Htr2tog 6 times. [6 sts] Fasten off, leaving a long tail, weave tail through all sts in Round 30 and pull to close.

THUMB Round 1 Join Yarn B in first skipped sp for

thumbhole, ch2 (counts as htr), htr in same sp, (htr in next 2 sps between sts, 2 htr in next sp between sts) twice, 2htr in next sp between sts. [12 sts] Round 2 Working between sts of Round 1 of Thumb, (htr in next 4 sps between sts, htr2tog) twice. [10 sts] Rounds 3-4 Htr in sp between stitches around. [10 sts] Round 5 Htr2tog 5 times, fasten off and weave tail through all sts in Round 5 to close.

SAVE OR SPLURGE For a more budget-friendly make, you could use ONline Linie 20 Cora; there are lots of shades to choose from! For yarn stockists contact LoveCrochet www.lovecrochet.com 0845 544 2196


a o t c s t t s i i tc h a W new stitch and how to use it in ever a r e v o y iss u Disc e.

BASIC WAISTCOAT STITCH Practice swatch to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) when flat. Ch26, ss in first ch to make a loop taking care not to twist the chain. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each ch around. [26 dc]

Round 2 Insert hook between the ‘v’ created by the 2 vertical strands of the st below, yrh and complete as for dc. [26 sts] Rounds 3-17 (Repeat Round 2) 15 times, at the end of Round 17, sl st to next st to finish off round. Fasten off and weave in ends. Patterns by Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz

Tun the page fo a great project that ue thi patten


Use your new waistcoat stitch skills to work up this cowl using the amigurumi method.


N w stitch

COWL

The lush contrasting colours make this cowl a must-have accessory on colder days. Q Malabrigo Worsted (100% pure merino wool, 100g/192m), 1 skein of each: Yarn A Apple Green (11) Yarn B Very Berry (12) Q A 5.5mm (US I/9) hook Q Stitch marker For yarn stockists contact Wool Warehouse 01926 882818 www.woolwarehouse.co.uk

Change colour before the last yrh of the st, work final yrh of the st in the new colour, pull through loop and work next st in new colour. Turn to page 91 for the Chart needed to make this cowl. COWL With Yarn A, ch64, ss in first ch to make a loop taking care not to twist the chain. Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each ch around. [64 dc]

Round 2 Waistcoat st in each st around. [64 sts] Round 3 Repeat Round 2. Rounds 4-26 Beginning on Row 1 follow Chart, repeat stitches 1-16 across 4 times on each round. Fasten off Yarn B only. Rounds 27-29 With Yarn A, waistcoat st in each st around, at the end of Round 29, sl st to next st to finish off round. Fasten off and weave in ends.

TENSION 12 sts and 16 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in)

MEASUREMENTS 56cm (22in) circumference x 18cm (7in) tall

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 90

NOTES The cowl is worked in the amigurumi method. Work stitches continuously in a spiral without closing off each round with a slip stitch. It may help to use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round, moving it up as you work. It is important to maintain a relaxed gauge when crocheting this stitch. When working from the Charts, carry the secondary yarn at the back of your work (don’t fasten off). Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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t a e Grescapes witH 2018 stilL shiNy anD new, our BurniNg deSire To soAk up a feW More CrochEt skIlls Is hoTter Than evEr. whEre bEtter to iNdulgE Those cravIngs Than On a DedicAted CrochEt geTaway?


GOOD READ

T

W AT E R W AY S & W O R K S H O P S Crochet addict and designer Sophie Hale runs A Boat Full of Wool, which, Sophie says, “offers unique craft workshops from crochet to pompom making, all onboard my cosy narrowboat that floats up and down the Kennet and Avon canal in Berkshire.” Sophie offers an array of day-long and half-day workshops and social events. “I run crochet social events called Cro-socials – these are for fellow crocheters who have the basic skills of crochet,” she says. “Themes range from Mandalas and Mocktails where guests have access to lots of patterns, including my own crochet hat pattern written especially for the workshop. They have access to unlimited use of yarn throughout the workshop, all accompanied by the peace and tranquillity of floating on the British waterways sipping on some fruity mocktails. Other cro-socials I host are Gin and Granny Squares, Handwarmers and Hot Chocolates, and Crochet and Cake.” If you’re lucky you might also get to meet Sophie’s cockapoo Twiggy, who makes frequent appearances on her Instagram feed. All of the social events and workshops are based on makes appropriate to the season, and Sophie designs all the patterns. We’re particularly fond of her beautiful Chunky Woodland Hat. In 2018 Sophie is hoping to broaden the scope, as well as appealing to specific occasions and age groups. “I hope to run birthday parties and private events, as well as making my way into secondary school textiles classes and running workshops on my boat to help teenagers understand how crochet is very on trend,” she says. “I want to show young people how great crochet is for the mind and how it can be a brilliant tool to help you switch off from modern stress and exam anxiety.” Sophie is ideally suited to this, being a 21-year-old crochet enthusiast with boundless energy. “I would love to get Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

Photograph by (top right and bottom): Rachel Manns

he chilly weather makes venturing outside at this time of year less than appealing, so we’ve been using it as an excuse to hole up inside for some serious crocheting time. But with the holiday season just around the corner, now is the perfect time to plan a trip brimming with crochet patterns, hooks and yarn… There are plenty of dedicated crochet getaways to choose from – whether you’d love a rural retreat, overseas adventure, or something else entirely, there’s something to suit every taste, and pocket. Here’s our pick of the top crochet travel options for 2018.

Clockwise from top left: Sophie enjoying some crochet on deck; Katie gets hands-on in a workshop; fun times at Great Make Escape.

as many people as possible of all ages addicted to crochet!” she says. Find out more at www.facebook.com/ aboatfullofwool and www.instagram.com/ aboatfullofwool.

The interior of the house, Katie assures us, is “decked to the nines in lots of crochet and crafty décor to create a fun and bright fully immersive experience.” Each of the weekends is split between open and structured time, allowing for plenty of guidance as well as freedom. “The weekends include three main workshops, all focused on making pieces from my new DIY collection, which also launched in October 2017,” says Katie. “The guests get to make one main project and two smaller accessories during the Friday to Sunday retreat.” With all the materials you need to make the pieces included, along with a goody bag, you just need to pack the basic essentials!

“It’s such a relaxing location – perfect for a weekend of

VIBRANT WEEKENDS Katie Jones launched her new venture Great Make Escape in October 2017 and it’s already building a reputation as an eco-minded, cosy countryside retreat. “Great Make Escape is a fun-filled weekend in Lewes,Sussex, that brings together like-minded craftaholics,” says Katie. “The weekends are set in an eco house in the woods with beautiful grounds you can walk around and enjoy.”

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From left: cosy workshops on A Boat Full of Wool; take in the stunning sights of Galway on a crochet holiday to Ireland.

“The retreat is aimed at the fashion-loving crafter and is also available for private parties, hen dos and baby showers,” Katie says. “It’s hosted by myself and my team.” Attendees have a chance to get to grips with some of Katie’s most iconic creations, including her Signature Aran Embroidered Jumpers, which have been sold worldwide in UK stores including Selfridges. Katie’s Granny Square jumpers are also proving popular in the workshops, and there are new designs to sample, too. “I’m super excited about our new Tessellation range, which offers guests the choice of making a home or clothing item, allowing the maker to bespoke their makes from the workshops.” Naturally, the weekends are fully catered, “with a range of delicious veggie foods and

From above: learn new skills at Gartmore House’s workshops; the holidays are suited to crocheters of all abilities.

cakes, bubbly, tea and coffee.” Beautiful surroundings, enticing crochet, convivial company and tempting treats – what more could you want? Get more information at www.katiejonesknit.co.uk. GAELIC CHARMS Crochet holidays overseas offer a chance to learn about the crafting culture of your destination, while relishing masses of time to enhance your crochet skills or tackle longterm WIPs. Arena Travel have planned an array of crafty holidays for 2018, including Knit & Crochet In The West of Ireland 2018. Taking place from 7-12 October, the six-day trip is hosted by Carol Meldrum in Ennis, County Clare, and gives you the chance to experience beautiful scenery and discover Ireland’s crochet and knitting heritage, while picking up new crochet skills of your own. Carol will lead crochet and knitting workshops inspired by the spirit and tradition of the Aran Islands. Carol’s ‘All Wrapped in Irish Crochet’ workshop invites you to dip into the world of crochet cables and show off your skills while making a fabulous textured patch bag. “We will focus on how to work traditional cables with crochet, crossing to the left and the right and how to add bobbles and textures in a selection of blocks and squares,” says Carol. “Then you’ll explore the techniques used to join these together.” You can also take a trip to Galway, where you’ll embark on a guided walking tour of the city. You can then enjoy some retail therapy in Ó’Máille, one of Ireland’s oldest stores which stocks handmade traditional Irish clothing, crafts and masses of beautiful yarns. Plus, you can catch the ferry to Innis Oirr, the smallest of the Aran Islands, and spend a full day getting to know the rugged Connemara peninsula where you’ll be treated to exceptional views over the Atlantic coast. This trip includes a visit to the Sheep and Wool Centre for an insight into the importance of textiles to Connemara’s past, the history of

sheep farming plus historic spinning and weaving techniques. You’re also likely to encounter a few sheep, as the abundance of wool is all key to the revival of yarn crafts in the west of Ireland. With Carol’s insights and passion for the region, we think you’re bound to come home revved up and enthused. Find full details at www.arenatravel.com/ our-holidays/stitchtopia. C R A F T FA R M R E T R E AT S Forget health farms, we fancy spending a few days on a farm reacquainting ourselves with our crochet! Louisa Sheward of Komodo Krafts hosts The Big Crochet Stayaway at the Anstey Grove Barn, a farm in Buntingford, East Hertfordshire. “We launched in March 2017, and it’s a truly beautiful and rural location,” says Louise. The accommodation is actually a converted pig shed, with six en suite rooms, a large communal area and a courtyard. “It’s such a relaxing location – perfect for a weekend of crocheting!” The agenda for the Stayaways is enticingly laidback too. “There are mini crochet workshops over the weekend, plus some guest workshops from experts in other crafts but they are not compulsory,” Louisa assures us. “Some people prefer to bring along their ten-year WIP and just have a place to work on it all weekend!” Louisa hires the services of a chef to cater the weekend, “giving us even more time to focus on crocheting.” Having a dedicated chef also ensures that, with warning, all food allergies can be catered for. The location of the Stayaway is a big part of the appeal. “We’re really lucky to be situated just a one-mile walk away from Yewtree Alpacas, so at some of the retreats we take a stroll through the farmer’s fields to visit the alpacas and walk them.” The dates for 2018 are 2-4 March, 8-10 June, 13-17 August, 28-20 September


GOOD READ and 7-9 December, with one-day passes available on Saturdays. Next July, Louisa and her team will also be hosting their first glamping crochet retreat at Gredon Lakes in Northamptonshire. “This stunning location will allow guests to get back to nature while enjoying the luxury of the fantastic yurts,” she says. “The weekend will be filled with workshops. We already have a great line-up of spinning, dyeing and felting, plus, of course, crochet. We also have a hot tub at this venue!” For both types of retreat, accommodation, food, workshops, advice from craft experts, yarn, goody bags, relaxation and fun are all included. Find out more at www. komodokrafts.com/bigcrochetstayaway. NORTHERN BEAUTY Gartmore House in Scotland’s Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park is ideally situated for crochet retreats with jaw-dropping backdrops, and with workshops led by Samira Hill, you’re likely to come away with some exciting new skills too. Their crochet activity holidays are suited to crocheters of all abilities, from beginners and up. “For those learning to crochet, we run a workshop where you’ll learn to make colourful granny squares,” says Samira, “and for those with more experience, there are a variety of advanced crochet workshops to choose from, encompassing colourwork, shaping techniques and textured stitches.” We’ve got our eye on Samira’s brand new Crochet Cables workshop, “where crocheters can learn how to make beautiful Celtic cables and interfacing plaits panels to make a beautiful blanket or throw.” The Tunisian Crochet workshop is also high on our list. “It’s suitable for anyone with a basic knowledge of crochet,” Samira assures us. “Participants will learn the fundamentals of Tunisian Crochet while making a sampler of various stitches and shaping techniques, and then move on to follow a colourwork pattern to create a lovely double-sided cushion cover. Our Entrelac Tunisian Crochet workshop is available for those with a little Tunisian Crochet experience already. In this one, guests create a gorgeous and striking cushion cover to accessorise their home while learning this beautiful technique.” During these crochet holidays, everyone works at their own pace. You’ll go home equipped with some new techniques, and with plenty of gorgeous creations to prove it. Samira says: “I love to watch everyone’s progress whilst enjoying the crafty chats and the creative, inspiring and relaxing Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

atmosphere on the Gartmore retreats.” Each retreat includes en-suite accommodation in Gartmore House, breakfast, lunch and dinner, and expert crochet tuition. If you book for four nights or more, you can also take optional trips to Loch Katrine or The Scottish Wool Centre. The activity breaks take place all year round. Find out more at www.gartmorehouse.com. T I M E TO R E V I TA L I S E Gillian and David Booth run indulgent Escape To The Crochet retreats at their farmhouse in rural Northumberland. “We’ve gone from strength to strength in 2017,” says Gillian. “Everyone seems to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere, great food and company and the well-stocked Teeny Tiny shop full of yarny goodness. In fact, most people can’t wait to book a return visit.” Full weekend retreats, plus a midweek day, are hosted every month and are ideal if you need to revitalise your energy. “Guests can stay over in the comfortable B&B accommodation or just pop in for the day,” says Gillian. “Group days are also popular and can be arranged for private parties such as WI or crafting friends.” The food on offer is all part of the attraction. “‘Sometimes we wonder whether people come for the food as much as the crochet!” exclaims Gillian. “There will be homemade cake, maybe delicious scones or biscuits too, as well as freshly-brewed tea and cafetières of coffee.” David cooks a wonderful three-course lunch including delicious homemade bread and soup, all served in the conservatory. “It’s an important part of the day.” The retreats begin at 10am. “Guests are welcomed into the lounge which is decorated with lots of colourful crochet to set the mood,” says Gillian. “New for this year is the log burner, which gives a wonderful atmosphere.”

From top: The Big Crochet Stayaway is held on a farm – a great location to relax in; visiting the alpacas.

Crocheters from absolute beginners and up are welcome to come along, although there aren’t formal workshops. Instead, Gillian provides easy-going tuition, along with hooks and plenty of yarn. “It’s more a chance to bring the projects you are currently working on and enjoy some quality ‘me time’, with a whole day of nothing to do but crochet and share the love and expertise with like-minded people,” says Gillian. “The emphasis is on leaving all your cares and worries behind.” Find out more at www.escapetothecrochet.co.uk or you can call 01670 791320. Written by Judy Darley

Relaxed crochet and chat at the Escape to the Crochet retreat .


Pocketful of fun Combine bold colour blocks and cool stripes in this hoodie hooked in super-soft cashmerino. By Susan Maria.


BABY HOODi A BIT TRICKY DK 4MM, 4.5MM WEIGHT 5MM

YOU WILL NEED Q

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55% extrafine merino wool, 33% acrylic microfibre, 12% cashmere, 50g/125m) Yarn A Teal (203) Yarn B Camel (102) Yarn C Light Blue (202) See table for yarn quantities and measurements Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook Q A 4.5mm (US G/6) hook Q A 5mm (US H/8) hook

TENSION 16 sts and 9 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over treble crochet using a 4.5mm hook

ABBREVIATIONS Dc Edging Rnd Ch1, dc around entire piece, work 1dc in each st across top and bottom edges; 2dc in side of each tr row-end. Work 3dc in each convex corner, and dc2tog at each concave corner Contrast Edging Rnd (RS) With Yarn C and 4mm hook, join in any dc, 1dc in bl of each dc to beg dc. Invisible Join After working last st of rnd, cut 20cm (8in) tail, gently pull yarn end through top of last st worked, weave end front to back under both loops of second st worked in the round, then back into the top of the last st worked. Weave in end neatly. The loop sits on top of the first stitch of the round as an invisible join and avoids the bump created by a conventional ‘fasten off’ For a full list, see page 90

You can’t beat a practical hoodie, and this one is a real winner. Children will love snuggling into its comfy hood and raglan sleeves, and the best bit is the pocket – just the right size for hiding toys. The construction and edging are beautifully designed, so it’s a fun project for you, too.

tr in next tr, leave remaining 2 (2: 2: 2: 2: 3) sts unworked, turn. [34 (36: 40: 44: 48: 50) tr] Row 2 Ch2, tr2tog, tr in each st to last 3 sts, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. [32 (34: 38: 42: 46: 48) tr] Row 3 Repeat Row 2. [30 (32: 36: 40: 44: 46) tr] Repeat Row 2 another 8 (8: 9: 10: 11: 11) times. [14 (16: 18: 20: 22: 24) tr] Work Dc Edging Rnd (RS), join with an Invisible Join.

NOTES The front, back and both sleeves are edged in dc so the stitch count along future seam lines are equal. The pocket is sewn on to the front. Feature slip stitch crochet seams are used to make the raglan sleeve joins. A hidden slip stitch crochet seam is used to finish the sleeve and side seams. Additional rows are added to the top of the garment to complete the hood. Double crochet and slip stitch are added as decorative edging to finish hood and sleeve openings. Ch-2 is used as turning ch for tr rows to avoid holes in the fabric and make dc edging rows easy and smooth.

FRONT Work as for Back to the end of Row 3 of Armhole shaping.

LEFT FRONT NECK SHAPING (RIGHT FRONT SHAPING FOR SIZE 4YRS) Row 4 (RS) Ch2, tr2tog, tr in each of next 9 (10: 12: 14: 16: 17) tr, tr2tog, tr in next tr, leave remaining 15 (16: 18: 20: 22: 23) sts unworked, turn. [13 (14: 16: 18: 20: 21) tr] Row 5 Ch2, tr in each st to last 3 sts, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. [12 (13: 15: 17: 19: 20) tr] Row 6 Ch2, tr2tog, tr in each st to last 3 sts, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. [10 (11: 13: 15: 17: 18) tr] Repeat Rows 5-6 another 2 (2: 3: 3: 4: 4) times. [4 (5: 4: 6: 5: 6) tr] Repeat Row 5 another 1 (1: 0: 1: 0: 0) times. [3 (4: 4: 5: 5: 6) tr]. Fasten off.

BACK Using Yarn A and a 5mm hook, ch42 (44: 48: 52: 56: 60), change to a 4.5mm hook, turn. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 4th ch from hook (skipped ch count as tr), 1tr in each ch to end, turn. [40 (42: 46: 50: 54: 58) tr] Row 2 (WS) Ch2 (counts as tr here and throughout), tr in each st to end, turn. [40 (42: 46: 50: 54: 58) tr] Repeat Row 2 13 (15: 15: 15: 16: 17) times.

RIGHT FRONT NECK SHAPING (LEFT FRONT SHAPING FOR SIZE 4YRS) Join yarn with a ss at centre split for neck, ch2, tr2tog, tr in each of next 9 (10: 12: 14: 16: 17) tr, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. [13 (14: 16: 18: 20: 21) tr] Next row Ch2, tr2tog, tr in each st to end, turn. [12 (13: 15: 17: 19: 20) tr]

SHAPE FOR ARMHOLE Next row Ch1 (does not count as st), ss in each of next 2 (2: 2: 2: 2: 3) tr, ch2 (counts as tr), tr2tog, tr across to last 5 (5: 5: 5: 5: 6) sts, tr2tog,

6m

1yr

2yrs

3yrs

4yrs

cm

43

45.5

53

55.5

58.5

61

in

17

18

21

22

23

24

cm

51.5

54

59

64

69

74

in

20¼

21¼

23¼

25¼

27¼

29

AGE TO FIT CHEST

ACTUAL CHEST

5yrs

cm

29

30

31

32

34

35

in

11½

12

12¼

12¾

13¼

13¾

cm

15.5

18

20

22

24.5

25.5

in

6

7

8

10

YARN A TEAL

50g

3

3

3

4

4

4

YARN B CAMEL

50g

2

2

2

3

3

3

YARN C LIGHT BLUE 50g

1

1

1

1

1

1

ACTUAL LENGTH

SLEEVE LENGTH

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply follow the relevant column. Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

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BABY HOODi

SLEEVE

FRONT & BACK

a

a

b

b

Width a: 15.5 (16: 17.5: 18: 19.5: 21) 6 (6¼: 7: 7¼: 7¾: 8¼) Length b: 15.5 (18: 20: 22: 24.5: 25.5) 6 (7: 8: 8¾: 9½: 10)

Width a: 25½ (27: 29.5: 32: 34.5: 37)cm 10 (10½: 11½: 12½: 13½: 14½)in Length b: 29 (30: 31: 32: 34: 35)cm 11 (12: 12¼: 12½: 13¼: 13½)in

Next row Ch2, tr2tog, tr in each st to last 3 sts, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. [10 (11: 13: 15: 17: 18) tr] Repeat previous 2 rows 2 (2: 3: 3: 4: 4) more times. [4 (5: 4: 6: 5: 6) tr]

Invisible Join. Work Contrast Edging Rnd (RS), join with an Invisible Join. With Yarn C, sew pocket to lower centre of Front, leaving hand-entry edges unattached.

SIZES 6M, 1YR, 3YR ONLY

SLEEVES (MAKE 2) With a 5mm hook and Yarn B, ch27 (28: 30: 31: 33: 36), change to a 4.5mm hook, turn. Row 1 (WS) Tr in fourth ch from hook (skipped ch count as tr), 1tr in each ch to end, turn. [25 (26: 28: 29: 31: 34) tr] Row 2 Ch2, tr in each st to end, turn. Row 3 Repeat Row 2. Row 4 Repeat Row 2, change to Yarn A in (final pull through of) last st, turn. Row 5 Repeat Row 2. Row 6 Repeat Row 2, change to Yarn B in last st, turn. Repeat Row 2 another 0 (2: 4: 3: 5: 6) times. Next row Ch2, 2tr in next tr, tr in each st to last 2 sts, 2tr in next tr, tr in last st, turn. [27 (28: 30: 31: 33: 36) tr] Next row Ch2, tr in each st to end, turn. Next row Ch2, tr in each st to end, turn. Next row Ch2, 2tr in next tr, tr in each st to last 2 sts, 2tr in next tr, tr in last st, turn. [29 (30: 32: 33: 35: 38) tr] Repeat previous three rows 1 (1: 1: 2: 2: 2) more times. [31 (32: 34: 37: 39: 42) tr] Next row Ch2, 2tr in next tr, tr in each st to last 2 sts, 2tr in next tr, tr in last st, turn. [33 (34: 36: 39: 41: 44) tr]

Last row Ch2, tr2tog, tr in each st to end, turn. [3 (4: -: 5: -: -) tr]. Work Dc Edging Rnd (RS), join with an Invisible Join. FRONT POCKET (MAKE 1) Using Yarn B and a 5mm hook, ch22 (24: 26: 28: 30: 32), change to a 4.5mm hook, turn. Row 1 (RS) Tr in 4th ch from hook (skipped ch count as tr), 1tr in each ch to end, turn. [20 (22: 24: 26: 28: 30) tr] Row 2 Ch2, tr in each st to end, turn. Repeat Row 2 another 1 (2: 2: 2: 3: 3) times.

SHAPE FOR POCKET HOLE Next row Ch1 (does not counts as a st), ss in each of next 3 tr, ch2 (counts as tr), tr2tog, tr in each st to last 6 sts, tr2tog, tr in next st, leave remaining 3 sts unworked, turn. [12 (14: 16: 18: 20: 22) tr] Next row Ch2, tr2tog, tr in each st to last 3 sts, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. [10 (12: 14: 16: 18: 20) tr] Repeat last row 1 (1: 1: 1: 2: 2) more times. [8 (10: 12: 14: 14: 16) tr]. Work Dc Edging Rnd (RS), join with an 72 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

The neckline is edged in two stripes of double crochet, matching the pocket and cuffs.

SHAPE FOR ARMHOLE Row 1 Ch1 (does not counts as ss), ss in each of next 2 (2: 2: 2: 2: 3) tr, ch2 (counts as tr), tr2tog, tr in each st to last 5 (5: 5: 5: 5: 6) sts, tr2tog, tr in next st, leave remaining 2 (2: 2: 2: 2: 3) sts unworked, turn. [27 (28: 30: 33: 35: 36) tr] Row 2 Ch2, tr2tog, tr in each st to last 3 sts, tr2tog, tr in last st, turn. [25 (26: 28: 31: 33: 34) tr] Repeat last row 9 (9: 10: 11: 12: 12) more times. [7 (8: 8: 9: 9: 10) tr] Work Dc Edging Rnd (RS), join with an Invisible Join.

RAGLAN FEATURE SLEEVE SEAMS Join back piece to left Sleeve. Row 1 (worked over one piece at a time) With 4mm hook and Yarn A, join at middle corner st of Back, with RS facing, at top of armhole with a dc in bl, dc in bl of each st across to middle corner st at bottom of armhole, ch1, dc in bl of middle corner st of Sleeve at bottom of armhole with RS facing, dc in bl of each st across to middle corner st at top of armhole, ch1, turn. [26 (26: 30: 32: 34: 34) dc] Row 2 (worked through both layers) With sleeve and back piece WS together (back piece facing you) ss through inner lps of each aligned dc across, fasten off. [26 (26: 30: 32: 34: 34) ss] Repeat technique for the remaining three


BABY HOODi seams: join left sleeve to Front, Front to right Sleeve, right Sleeve to Back. Neatly sew bottom ends of seams together at lower armholes.

The hood is worked in stripes of 2 rows per colour.

HIDDEN CROCHET SEAMS For Sleeve seam, with RS together using a 4mm hook and Yarn B, join at bottom of armhole with a ss in outer loops of middle corner dc sts, ss in outer loops of each aligned dc across to middle corner sts at cuff, fasten off. [30 (34: 38: 42: 46: 48) ss] Repeat for other sleeve. Repeat technique with Yarn A for side seams. [32 (36: 36: 36: 38: 40) ss] HOOD With RS facing, using Yarn B and a 4.5mm hook, skip middle corner dc at top right Front neck, join in next dc with a dc, dc in each of next 3 (4: 4: 5: 5: 6) dc of Front, 2dc over raglan seam, dc in each of next 9 (10: 10: 11: 11: 12) dc of Sleeve, 2dc over raglan seam, dc in each of next 16 (18: 20: 22: 24: 26) dc of Back, 2dc over raglan seam, dc in each of next 9 (10: 10: 11: 11: 12) dc of Sleeve, 2dc over raglan seam, dc in each of next 4 (5: 5: 6: 6: 7) dc, leaving middle corner dc at top left neck unworked, turn. [50 (56: 58: 64: 66: 72) tr]

SIZE 6M Row 1 Ch2, tr in each st to end, turn. [50 tr]

SIZES 1YR, 2YRS, 3YRS, 4YRS, 5YRS Row 1 Ch2, tr in each of next – (5: 6: 5: 7: 4) dc, *tr2tog, tr in each of next – (12: 12: 8: 14: 10) tr; rep from * - (2: 2: 4: 2: 4) more times, tr2tog, tr in each of last – (6: 7: 6: 8: 5) dc, turn. [- (52: 54: 58: 62: 66) tr]

ALL SIZES Row 2 Ch2, tr in each st to end, change to Yarn A in last tr, turn. [50 (52: 54: 58: 62: 66) tr] Row 3 Ch2, tr in each st to end, turn. Row 4 Ch2, tr in each st to end, change to Yarn B in last tr, turn. Row 5 Ch2, tr in each st to end, turn. Repeat Row 5 another 9 (9: 11: 11: 13: 13) times, continuing to change yarn colour every second row.

DECREASE TO SHAPE TOP OF HOOD Continue to change yarn colour every second row while working the following shaping rows. Row 1 Ch2, tr in each of next 8 (9: 10: 12: 14: 16) sts, *tr2tog, tr in each of next 8 sts; rep from * 2 more times, tr2tog, tr in each of Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

last 9 (10: 11: 13: 15: 17) sts, turn. [46 (48: 50: 54: 58: 62) tr] Row 2 Ch2, tr in each of next 7 (8: 9: 11: 13: 15) sts, *tr2tog, tr in each of next 7 sts; rep from * 2 more times, tr2tog, tr in each of last 9 (10: 11: 13: 15: 17) sts, turn. [42 (44: 46: 50: 54: 58) tr] Row 3 Ch2, tr in each of next 7 (8: 9: 11: 13: 15) sts, *tr2tog, tr in each of next 2 sts; rep from * 5 more times, tr2tog, tr in each of last 8 (9: 10: 12: 14: 16) sts, turn. [35 (37: 39: 43: 47: 51) tr] Row 4 Ch2, tr in each of next 7 (8: 9: 11: 13: 15) sts, *tr2tog, tr in next st; rep from * 5 more times, tr2tog, tr in each of last 7 (8: 9: 11: 13: 15) sts, turn. [28 (30: 32: 36: 40: 44) tr] Row 5 Ch2, tr in each of next 9 (10: 11: 13: 15: 17) sts, tr2tog 4 times, tr in each of last 10 (11: 12: 14: 16: 18) sts, turn. [24 (26: 28: 32: 36: 40) tr] Row 6 Ch2, tr in each of next 7 (8: 9: 11: 13: 15) sts, tr2tog 4 times, tr in each of last 8 (9: 10: 12: 14: 16) sts, turn. [20 (22: 24: 28: 32: 36) tr] Row 7 Ch1, with RS together ss in outer loops of each aligned tr to end. Fasten off.

HOOD EDGING Round 1 (RS) With Yarn B and a 4mm hook, join at first row-end of hood, work 2dc per tr row across to hood seam, 2dc across hood seam, 2dc per tr row across to neck edge of Front, 1dc in each dc across neck edge to V-point, dc3tog at convex V-point, 1dc in each dc across to beg, join with an Invisible Join. Work Contrast Edging Rnd (RS), join with an Invisible Join.

SLEEVE EDGING Work Contrast Edging Rnd (RS), join with an Invisible Join. Optional surface crochet decoration of sleeve at bottom edge over Yarn A rows: With RS facing, using Yarn C and a 4mm hook, hold working yarn within sleeve on WS and active loop and hook on RS, ss with relaxed tension across top of fourth row (i.e. in same place as fifth row is worked), 3ss across sleeve seam, join with an Invisible Join. TO FINISH Weave in all ends. Gently block.

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YARN REVIEWS

Sock yarns

o keep those toes ing sock yarns t on tren n n u t s d. Six SOCK SHAPE

Make a magic loop. ROUND 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 6dc into the loop. [6dc] ROUND 2 2dc in each st around. [12dc] ROUNDS 3-8 Dc in each st around. ROUNDS 9-11 Dc in first 6 sts, tr in next 6 sts. [6dc and 6tr] ROUNDS 12-19 Dc in each st around. ROUND 20 Ss in next st, ch3. (counts as tr), tr in next 11 sts, ss into top of starting ch3. Fold over this last row. FASTEN OFF and weave in ends.

ct They’re the pefe. size fo doll.. o weaing on finge!


Yarn r vi ws WYS Signature 4ply

King Cole Zig Zag

WEIGHT 4ply CONTENT 75% superwash wool, 25% nylon SKEIN 100g/420m HOOK 3mm RRP £4.79

WEIGHT 4ply CONTENT 75% wool, 25% nylon SKEIN 100g/ 400m HOOK 3.25mm RRP £7.20

This yarn is a delicious mix of nylon and pure wool, 35% of which is Bluefaced Leicester. This blend is spun into an even twist which gives the yarn a strong and reliable texture, while still maintaining a nice lustre and well-defined crisp stitches. New this season is their

Florist shade range, a palette of seven solids and six prints including English Rose (pictured). Signature is specially made for socks and you’ll find tempting patterns on their site. Machine washable at 40°. www.wyspinners.com 01535 664500

If you’re looking for a funky yet sturdy yarn, then King Cole’s Zig Zag is perfect for you. This 4ply crochets up ever so slightly thicker than other sock yarns, producing a durable and firm fabric that has a slightly earthy feel to it – perfect for projects that need to be hardwearing for

Scheepjes Our Tribe

Paintbox yarns socks

WEIGHT Sport CONTENT 75% merino superwash, 25% polyamide SKEIN 100g/420m HOOK 2.5mm RRP £7.99

WEIGHT 4ply CONTENT 75% superwash wool, 25% polyamide SKEIN 100g/390m HOOK 3mm RRP £8.79

Our Tribe is a range of 15 ‘select’ colours chosen and curated by the Scheepjes Bloggers Group. The superwash merino makes the yarn amazingly soft to the touch, and the loose relaxed twist gives it a luxury handspun feel. When hooked up the yarn produces a charming shine and

the fabric has a nice bounce and elasticity. Colour changes in the variegated tones are smooth with a gentle and even gradient effect. As well as being machine washable at 40°, you can also iron and tumble dry the yarn on cool settings. www.scheepjes.com/en

Full of charm and character, this variegated yarn has a nice tight twist, which helps to create crisp stitches with a springy quality. A very slight sheen gives the yarn a hint of a mercerised look. There are 28 shades to choose from, seven in each of the Zebra, Fair isle,

everyday use. All of the colours in the range feature bold colour variegations which produce random flecks of contrasting tones interspersed with occasional solid sections of colours. Machine wash at 40°. www.kingcole.com 01756 703670

Stripes and Pixel colour categories. Each range features a different style, whether showy or sensible, contrasting or complementary, so there really is a yarn for everyone. The yarn is machine washable at 40°. www.lovecrochet.com 0845 544 2196

Rico Design Superba Bamboo Superwash Stylecraft head over heels boho WEIGHT 4ply CONTENT 75% superwash wool, 25% nylon SKEIN 100g/400m HOOK 2.5mm RRP £6.49

WEIGHT 4ply CONTENT 50% virgin wool, 25% polyamide, 25% viscose SKEIN 100g/420m HOOK 3mm RRP £7.70 This yarn is a lovely, shiny sock yarn with an elegant slippery, silky feel. There are 16 shades to choose from, all of which feature colour variegation that produces solid stripes that change colour seamlessly. When worked up the fabric is light and relaxed, but also Subscribe at www.simplycrochetmag.com

retains a good bounce and stretch, which make it a practical yarn for garments that will get everyday use. Socks are an obvious choice, but we think some of the soft shades would be brilliant for lace projects too. Machine wash at 40°. www.rico-design.co.uk

It’s the dramatic colour changes that make Boho stand out from the crowd. It features a uniform twist that creates nice even stitches that complement the combination of long and short striping colour changes. When worked in shorter stitches it produces a dense and even

texture that has a very natural feel to it, but the yarn is also light and delicate enough for looser stitch projects like shawls and scarfs. Choose from 11 vivid colour combinations. Machine wash at 30°. www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk 01535 609798 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 75


Show us yours Join our gang of Treble Makers and share your thoughts and makes with us, for a chance to be featured here, use our hashtag #Sctreblemaker

EARLY LEARNING W This cultured

W

young chap has clearly been captivated by Hooky Treasure in issue 65. But what you can’t see is just out of shot are all the completed projects from that issue too. Honestly, his triple treble is absolutely to die for. A yarnoholic in the making? @abi_lango

! ER N N I

ROSE RED

L

illy Woolcock’s beautifully hooked evening bag is fit for a bride (or perhaps just the best date of your life). From that vintage clasp to that romantic rose, the only thing left to do is find a frock to live up to it… Find the bag pattern in issue 65 – the rose is Lilly’s brilliant addition.

FoxIng CleVer

! ER N N WI

Foxy! We adored this fab hoodie when it appeared in issue 62, and now we love it even more since we’ve seen Sarah Camu’s version. She hooked it up for this young chap – doesn’t he wear it well? Of course, Sarah remembered to add the tail. (We LOVE the tail.) We wonder if anyone out there has adapted this pattern to incorporate another favourite friend? Elongated ears and a pompom tail would make a beautiful bunny…

DOUBLE TAP

We’ve been double tapping on Instagram and admiring your makes. Tag us @simplycrochetmag and use the hashtag #SCtreblemaker. MANDALA MAD @honeycomb hoodlum from Finland has been busy hooking all our mandalas from 2017, and the results are magnificent, showing off their intricate details beautifully. PUFFED UP @stitches_from_ the_sofa has mastered the puff stitch! Check out these mitts she hooked from issue 65. They’re bound to come in useful for a few more months to come… COVER-UP Ooh, the perfect poncho from issue 25, hooked up by @Jackandviolet crochet. Check out those tassels! The colours she’s used work beautifully here, creating a poncho she can wear with just about anything.

THE LOWDOWN It’s simple to be in with a chance of winning one of three great hooky prizes next issue! Show us your Simply Crochet makes on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or via email or post by 25 January 2018. For all terms and conditions, and more information, visit www.simplycrochetmag.co.uk/competitionrules wi n 76 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM


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STYLE IT OUT There’s so much to admire here: not only are we enjoying Mary McGuckin’s exquisite hooking – from a sweater we featured in issue 64, designed by Ilaria Caliri (and we can’t resist a spot of cheery mustard in our wardrobes), but look at that professional photography, as well as her tasteful styling… And of course, we can’t help mention her choice in magazines, which is exemplary. What’s more, she keeps her (rather beautiful) stash in a hat box. Now there’s an idea. Thanks, Mary, we’re totally stealing that one.

This month we asked you..

TEA FOR TWO

Natahsha Thornley has hooked up this pompom-tastic tea cosy from issue 64. And if you’re asking, ours is white with one, please.

What’s your favourite crochet colour scheme? @SashaDistan

I have to pick jut one?

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p o h s k Wor u the we show yo Evey iue to make you’ll need technique home. gs fo you in th l fu ti u bea

Fibonacci

USE SIMPLE MATHS TO CREATE PLEASING DESIGNS.

FibonAcci Throw p81

Have you ever worked a stripe pattern that looked great, but then had another one that for some reason just didn’t look quite right? Or have you made a rectangular afghan that looked brilliant, while another one ended up looking too long for the width? Well, we have a clever way that you can overcome this hit-andmiss routine and take some of the guessing out of your hooking. THE SEQUENCE The solution is an ancient mathematical technique called the Fibonacci sequence of numbers, named after Italian mathematician Leonardo Pisano Bigollo, also known as Fibonacci. He spent much of his life studying Indian mathematics and introduced this interesting number sequence to Western Europe in his 1202 book Liber Abaci. The Fibonacci sequence

is closely connected to the golden ratio, and both are found often in patterns from nature, such as the branching on trees, the arrangement of leaves on a stem and the segments of a fruit. This seemingly magic pattern of numbers can help with many aspects of human life, from planning and designing to problem solving and even predicting behaviour. It’s no wonder, then, that the sequence gets used in everything from computing, architecture and stock market trading to biology, music and crochet design. With the Fibonacci sequence, your stripes and dimensions can look good every time. Read on and we’ll explain what the Fibonacci numbers are, how you figure them out, and how you can use them in crochet. Then you can make the throw on page 81.

What are the Fibonacci numbers?

This simple sequence is easy to understand and remember. just add together the previous two numbers, as shown below: So 0 + 1 = 1 (the 3rd number). Then 1 + 1 = 2 (the 4th number). Then 1 + 2 = 3 (the 5th number). Then 2 + 3 = 5 (the 6th number). Do you see the pattern? What would be the number after 233? Just add together 144 and 233. You’ll make 377.

The Fibonacci sequence is a simple series of numbers, as follows: 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, 89, 144, 233 and so on infinitely… Don’t worry though – you don’t need to memorise all the numbers. All you need to do is remember the first two numbers (0 and 1). Then, to get the next number in the sequence,

0+1

1+2

3+5

8+13

21+34

Psst

Wh o k n could be ew mat h  so much fun?

55+89

0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, 89, 144, 233... 1+1

2+3

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5+8

13+21

34+55

89+144


How do i use the numbers for stripes?

The Fibonacci sequence can help with all sorts of design questions. 01

02

5

5

3 2 1 5

3 2 1

3 2 1 5 3 2 1 5 3 2 1 5 3 2 1

5 3 2 1 5 3 2 1 03

1 2 3 5

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1 5

5

2 3 3 2 5

3 2 1 2 3 5

1

8

8 5 3 2 1 2 3 5

1 5

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5 1

5 3 2

8

2 3 3 2

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One of the ways you can make use of the Fibonacci numbers is to help you plan stripe sequences, including how many colours to choose and how many rows to work in each colour to create pleasing effects. We’ll show you a few examples to get you started, but then you can create your own sequences and apply these methods to diagonal or zigzag stripe patterns. Step 1 For a basic stripe pattern with seemingly random stripe widths, let’s use three colours (a Fibonacci number, of course) and the first four Fibonacci numbers (1, 2, 3 and 5) to define the number of rows in each stripe. This is what we did for the throw project on page 81. We alternated the three colours (A, B and C) with the four Fibonacci numbers, starting with 5 rows and colour A, following this sequence: 5 rows A, 3 rows B, 2 rows C, 1 row A; 5 rows B, 3 rows C, 2 rows A, 1 row B; 5 rows C, 3 rows A, 2 rows B, 1 row C. Then the sequence repeats from the beginning to create a visually attractive stripe pattern. Step 2 Now have a go at adjusting this basic pattern, either by changing the number of yarn colours or the Fibonacci numbers. For example, let’s use five colours (the next Fibonacci number) but use the same sequence of row numbers. You’ll create this slightly longer stripe sequence that looks organically random. Step 3 Let’s go back to using three colours and this time, change the Fibonacci numbers we use. Try using the numbers in a curved, increasing and decreasing sequence: 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 5, 3, 2, 1. Here’s the stripe pattern you’d get, which looks naturally attractive. Alternatively, you could start the repeat higher up in the Fibonacci sequence and use a decreasing and increasing sequence such as this: 8, 5, 3, 2, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8. Step 4 Once you get the hang of it, you’ll love making Fibonacci stripes! Here’s a slightly more complex pattern using two colours and the first five Fibonacci numbers (1, 2, 3, 5, 8). With colour A, start at the higher end (8) and work in a decreasing sequence; with colour B, start at the lower end (1) and work in an increasing sequence. Alternate the colours to create a graduated effect, then try extending the pattern with colour C and repeat. We’d love to use this stripe pattern for a long scarf, using odd balls of yarn from our stash! You can use Fibonacci numbers in all sorts of different ways and various combinations so take some time to experiment with squared paper and colouring pencils to see what sort of stripe patterns you can create. WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 79


hop

Works

How else can the Fibonacci sequence help? Use the numbers in other designs and to choose sizes. Another way in which the Fibonacci sequence is useful when designing in crochet is for choosing sizes, especially for blankets. If you’re not sure what size or shape to make a project, you can use Fibonacci numbers to guide you. If you’re making a square item, just choose one of the Fibonacci numbers for the dimensions of each side – you can use either centimetres or inches as long as you’re consistent. To make a rectangular item, just choose two adjacent numbers from the Fibonacci sequence, such as 3 x 5 or 21 x 34. You can also

use multiples of these numbers, for example 6 x 10, which is twice as big as 3 x 5. However, if possible, it’s always best to use numbers directly from the Fibonacci sequence instead of multiples. If you’re wondering why, this is where the Fibonacci numbers get more interesting (to us number geeks anyway!). The further up the Fibonacci sequence you go, the more pleasing the rectangle will look. This is because as you move upwards, the ratio between two adjacent numbers in the sequence gets closer and closer to the golden ratio, a somewhat magical number in mathematics.

01

Step 1 Here, you can compare rectangles of different sizes from the Fibonacci sequence – they are very similar, but the larger you go the the rectangle will look. Step 2 You can also use the Fibonacci sequence to help you with layouts, especially square layouts for blankets. Here you can see the Fibonacci sequence represented in squares, with sides equal to each number in length – they fit together nicely to form an endlessly expanding blanket. This quality makes them perfect for blanket layouts. Step 3 For a basic blanket layout, take the squares in sizes 1 and 2, and arrange them together – here are two examples using three different colours to create a slightly threedimensional effect that’s pleasing to the eye. Step 4 Then you could try layouts with squares in sizes 1, 2 and 3, such as this one. Step 5 Or have a play with squares in sizes 1, 2, 3 and 5 to create a layout like this one. You’ll see now the potential of using the Fibonacci sequence in crochet, and we’re sure you’ll find other ways to put this maths technique to good use. For example, you could take the image from Step 2 and draw a diagonal line through each square to form a spiral pattern. What design ideas will Fibonacci inspire in you?

02

1x2 2x3 3x5

13

5x8

21 8 x 13

2

3

11 8 5

13 x 21

03 2

2

1

1

1

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1 2

2 1

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3 1

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3 1

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Written by Marty Miller & Becky Skuse

04

2


fibonacci throw

Comfort blanket We’ve done the maths – all you need to do is hook up and snuggle up. Designed by Marty Miller.

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WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 81


fibonacci throw EASY PEASY DK WEIGHT

3.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q

Plymouth Yarn Encore Worsted (75% acrylic, 25% wool, 182m/100g) 3 skeins of Blue Surf (465) 2 skeins of each: Champagne (218), Golden Glow (460) Q A 5.5mm(US H/8) hook

TENSION 3.5 3-tr groups and approx. 7 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over pattern. Tension is not important for this project

MEASUREMENTS Blanket measures 103x104cm (40½x41in)

ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92

Throws and stripes are always going to be a match made in heaven, and this cosy creation is no exception. Designer Marty Miller has made good use of the Fibonacci numbers to come up with an eye-catching design in muted, complementary colours. The repetitive stripes make it nice and relaxing to hook too – your maths homework has never felt so good. BLANKET Foundation Row Using Blue Surf, ch3, tr in 3rd ch from hook, *ch4, tr in 4th ch from hook; repeat from * 30 more times, turn. [32 tr sps] Row 1 (RS) Ch4 (counts as ch1, tr), working into the sp created by each tr post, (ch1, 3tr) into each sp across to end, turn. [1tr and 32 3-tr groups] Row 2 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), *ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, repeat from * across, turn. [1tr and 32 3-tr groups] Rows 3-71 Repeat Row 2 changing colour at the end of the Row using the following sequence: Rows 1-5 Blue Surf Rows 6-8 Champagne Rows 9-10 Golden Glow

If you can’t wait to try the Fibonacci numbers, create your own sequence for the stripes.

Row 11 Blue Surf Rows 12-16 Champagne Rows 17-19 Golden Glow Rows 20-21 Blue Surf Row 22 Champagne Rows 23-27 Golden Glow Rows 28-30 Blue Surf Rows 31-32 Champagne Row 33 Golden Glow Rows 34-66 Repeat colour changes from Rows 1-33. Rows 67-71 Blue Surf Do not fasten off. BORDER Round 1 With RS facing, dc loosely and evenly around the edge of the blanket, working 3dc into each corner (mark the centre st of each corner), ss to first st to join. Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in each st around, working 3dc into each marked st, move markers up. Rounds 3-5 Repeat Round 2. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

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Crochet essentials

Over the next few pages, you’ll find simple step-by-step guides to many useful stitches and techniques that you’ll use every time you pick up a hook. HOLDING THE HOOK

Try these methods and see which works best.

PENCIL METHOD Hold the hook like a pencil, in your right hand (if you’re right-handed), about 3-5cm from the hooked end. If your hook has a flat area, you’ll find it comfortable to hold it here.

KNIFE METHOD Hold the hook between your thumb and forefinger, about 3-5cm from the hooked end, resting the end of the hook against your palm. This will give you lots of control.

HOLDING THE YARN

Even tension results in even stitches.

METHOD ONE Pass the ball end of the yarn between the little finger and third fingers of your left hand (if you are right-handed), then behind the third and middle fingers, over your index finger.

METHOD TWO Loop the ball end of the yarn loosely around the little finger of your left hand, then take it over the third finger, behind the middle finger and over your index finger.

3 Catch the ball end of the yarn with the hook and pull it back through the centre of the loop, taking the yarn through with it.

4 Pull both ends of the yarn to tighten the knot, then pull just the ball end to tighten the loop so it’s close to the hook, but not touching it.

MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook.

1 Hold the tail of the ball of yarn in your left hand and drape the yarn clockwise over the top of it to form a circular loop.

2 Hold the loop between left thumb and forefinger, then insert the crochet hook through the centre of the loop from front to back.

CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain.

How to count chains

9

1 Hold the hook in your right hand, and both the yarn end and the working yarn in your left hand. Move the hook under and over the yarn to wrap it around anticlockwise.

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2 Pull the hook towards the slipknot, catching the yarn in the hook, and pulling it through the slipknot loop. This forms your first chain (ch) stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to form a chain length.

3 This is what your row of chains will look like. Hold the chain with your left hand near the hook, to keep the tension. Keep going until you have the number of chains that’s stated in your pattern.

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

Each chain or loop counts as one stitch. Never count your first slipknot or the loop on the hook (called the working loop). So that you can be accurate, make sure the chain is not twisted and that the front is facing you.

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1


SLIP STITCH (ss)

This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds.

1 The slip stitch is used to join a length of chain into the round. Insert the hook from front to back into the first chain you worked. Wrap yarn round the hook (yrh) in an anticlockwise direction.

2 Pull the yarn through the chain stitch (as shown) and then the loop already on the hook to make a slip stitch. You can also work this stitch into each stitch along a row to form a neat edging.

WORKING IN ROWS

Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric.

1 The first row is made by working across the foundation chain from right to left. At the end of the chain or row, turn the work so that the yarn is behind the hook.

2 For the next row, first make the turning chain for the stitch you’re about to work (see opposite). Now work the next stitch into the top of the stitches on your first row, missing the first stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet

One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric.

1 To make a double crochet stitch, insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row.

2 Wind the yarn around the hook (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch, giving you two loops on your crochet hook.

4 Yarn round hook again, then pull the yarn through both loops. There’s your double crochet made and you’ll have one loop left on the hook, ready to do the next stitch.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet

A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet.

1 To make a half treble crochet stitch, work to where you want the htr and then wind the yarn round the hook (yrh).

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2 Insert the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch in the previous row. Wrap yarn around the hook again (yrh).

3 Pull the yarn through the stitch only (3 loops on hook).

4 Yarn round hook again, pull the yarn through all 3 loops. You’ve made a half treble crochet. Continue working htr into next and following sts to the end of the row.


YOUR GUIDE TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet

One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch.

1 To work a treble crochet, start by winding yrh and then insert the hook under the top two loops of the stitch on the previous row.

2 Wrap the yarn around the hook (yrh) and pull the yarn through the stitch only.

DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr) US term: treble crochet This is a stitch regularly used as an elongated version of the treble (described above). It’s worked in a very similar way to the treble, as follows: 1 Make a foundation chain. Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert the hook under the top loop of the next ch. 2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the ch loop only (4 loops on hook). 3 Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook).

Yrh and pull the yarn through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook). 4 Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops. Repeat from * to make more dtr sts. 5 To make the next row of dtr, turn work and ch4. This turning chain counts as the first dtr in a new row. Skip first st at the base of the t-ch, work 1dtr under the top two loops of the 2nd stitch in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

TURNING CHAIN (t-ch)

For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain. In crochet, you need to add turning chains (t-chs) to the beginning of rows. The reason for this is to bring the hook up to the height of the stitches you’re crocheting. Each basic stitch has its own number of chains. The

table below tells you how many t-ch sts form the first stitch. *For dc, usually the turning chain does not count as a stitch, and the first stitch of the row is worked into the stitch at the base of the turning chain.

STITCH

Add to foundation chain before starting row

Skip at start of foundation row (counts as first st)

For turning chain (counts as first st)

Double crochet

1 ch

1 ch*

1 ch*

Half treble

1 ch

2 ch

2 ch

Treble

2 ch

3 ch

3 ch

Double treble

3 ch

4 ch

4 ch

Triple treble

4 ch

5 ch

5 ch

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3 You will now have 3 loops on the hook. Yrh again, and draw the yarn through just the first 2 loops on the hook.

4 You will now have 2 loops on the hook. Yrh again and draw the yarn through the remaining loops on the hook. Your treble crochet is complete.

TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr) US term: double treble crochet This is one of the longest standard crochet stitches and is mainly used in fancy stitch patterns. It’s taller than a double treble crochet stitch (described left) and is worked in a very similar way, as follows: 1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook under top loop of next ch. 2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch loop only (5 loops on hook). 3 † Yrh, draw loop through 2

loops only. Repeat from † 3 times more and your triple treble will be finished. Repeat from * to make more ttr sts. 4 To make the next row, turn work and ch5. This turning chain counts as the first triple treble in a new row. Skip first st at base of the t-ch. Work 1 triple treble, inserting hook under the top 2 loops of the 2nd st in the previous row; continue to the end of the row.

How to count stitches Check your work is correct. Being able to count your stitches is very important and helps you to ensure that you’re following a pattern correctly. It’s a good idea to count your stitches at the end of every row. To count short stitches such as double crochet, look at the plaited tops (see above right). For taller stitches, count the upright ‘stems’ – each ‘stem’ is counted as a stitch (see right).

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HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR

Create stripes and other colour effects.

1 Before you work the final yrh (yarn round hook) on the last stitch of a row in the old colour, drop the old yarn and then pick up the new one with your hook.

2 Pull through a loop of the new yarn to finish the old stitch. The working loop will be in the new colour. Continue, keeping the old yarn at the wrong side.

INCREASING AND DECREASING

Shaping stitches are vital for making garments.

INCREASE To increase one stitch is very simple – work one stitch into the next stitch on the row below. When you’ve finished, work another stitch into the same stitch.

DECREASE For a quick decrease, just skip one stitch. For a neater look, work the first part of one stitch and then begin the next stitch. Finish both together.

SEWING SEAMS

You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods.

1 Sewing with a tapestry needle is the regular and neat way to join seams. Place two pieces of crochet right sides together and oversew them as shown above, using a tapestry or yarn needle.

2 To slip stitch a seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together. *Insert hook into both edge stitches, yrh and pull through to complete 1 slip stitch; rep from * working into the next edge stitches, keeping work fairly loose.

How to check your tension Make and measure a swatch to check your tension. Most crochet patterns state the tension required, in rows and stitches of a specific type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square and check that your tension matches. Place a ruler across the swatch and insert two pins, 10cm apart. Then place the ruler along a column of stitches and insert two pins 10cm apart. Count the stitches and rows between the pins – if you have less than the pattern, your tension is too loose so you need to use a smaller hook, but if you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s usually better to match the stitches than rows, because you can always work more or fewer rows.

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3 For a dc seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam. Work as for slip stitch seam, using double crochet instead of slip stitch.

4 A useful variation on the dc seam, the dc and chain seam is used when less bulk and/or greater flexibility is needed. Work 1 double crochet and 1 chain alternately.


YOUR GUIDE FOUNDATION RING

Create a foundation ring for working in the round.

1 Make a chain the length stated in the pattern instructions. Next, insert the crochet hook into the first chain. Close the ring with a slip stitch, working yrh…

2 …and pull yarn through 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start crocheting in the round, following the instructions given right.

WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING

To make circles, tubes and other shapes.

1 Make a foundation ring and work the t-ch (3ch for treble sts). Work a treble st as usual, but insert hook into centre of ring. For treble sts, yrh, insert hook into ring.

2 Finish the treble as usual (yrh, pull yarn through ring, yrh, pull yarn through first 2 loops, yrh, pull yarn through 2 loops). Work more sts into the ring as needed.

3 Make a t-ch for the sts you want to work (above, we made 1 t-ch for dc). Work your sts into the Magic Loop, over both the loop and the tail end (so two yarn strands).

4 Once you’ve worked the first round of stitches, simply pull the tail end of yarn to draw up the ring. Work a slip stitch to join the last and first sts to finish the first round (as instructed in the guide below).

MAGIC LOOP

An alternative foundation ring for working in the round. Working yarn

Tail end

1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t make a slipknot. Instead, make a loop with the yarn, leaving a tail around 10cm long. Make sure the tail end is under the working yarn.

2 Now insert your hook into the loop, from front to back. Wrap the working yarn around the hook and pull the yarn through the loop.

JOINING ROUNDS

Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch.

Rounds or spirals

1 To close a round of stitches, work a slip stitch into the top of the turning chain. To do this, insert the hook into the top stitch of the turning chain.

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2 Then place the yarn round the hook. Pull the yarn through the turning chain stitch and through the original stitch on your hook.

3 You’ve slip stitched the round together! Before working another round, be sure to make the required turning chain. Always work rounds on the right side, unless you pattern instructs you otherwise.

Some patterns are worked in rounds that are joined together at the end of each round (see left). Other patterns are worked in a spiral so you don’t need to join the rounds at the end, just keep going, working into the next stitch on the previous row. Amigurumi toys are often worked in a spiral like this.

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©Stephanie Lau, www.allaboutami.com

Check which technique you need to use.


Abbreviations across approx beg bl BPtr

ch(s) ch-sp(s) chcl(s) 2-tr cl

cont dc dc2tog

dec dtr dtr2tog fdc ftr fl foll/folls FPtr

to end of the row approximate(ly) beginning insert hook under back loop only Back Post treble: yrh, starting from the back, insert hook from back to front to back around post of st in row below, complete as treble st chain/chain stitch(es) chain space(s) refers to ch made previously, eg. ch-3 clusters (yrh, insert hook in sp/ st, yrh & pull up loop, yrh & draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting hook in same sp/st, yrh & draw through all loops on hook continue double crochet (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw a loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook decrease double treble crochet work 2dtr together foundation dc foundation tr insert hook under front loop only following/follows Front Post treble: work in opposite way to BPtr

Crochet hook conversions htr htr2tog in next inc LH lp(s) meas patt(s) pm prev qtr rem rep RH rnd(s) RS sk sp(s) ss st(s) tbl t-ch(s) tog tr tr2tog

ttr WS yrh *

()

half treble work 2htr together sts to be worked into the same stitch increase left hand loop(s) measures pattern(s) place marker previous quadruple treble remain(s)/remaining repeat right hand round(s) right side skip space(s) slip stitch stitch(es) through back loop turning chain(s) together treble crochet (yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, yrh and draw through all loops on hook triple treble crochet wrong side yarn round hook work instructions immediately foll *, then rep as many more times as directed work all instructions in the brackets as many times as directed

HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH

To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve finished crocheting, fasten the end off carefully. Complete the final stitch, then cut the yarn about 15cm from the work. Pull it through the last loop on the hook and pull to close the loop. Thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave into the back of the work. Most crochet items don’t need a lot of blocking, but cotton lace work usually does. To do this, carefully pin out the item with rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally. 90 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

UK

METRIC

US

14

2mm

13

2.25mm

B/1

12

2.5mm

2.75mm

C/2

11

3mm

10

3.25mm

D/3

9

3.5mm

E/4

3.75mm

F/5

8

4mm

G/6

7

4.5mm

7

6

5mm

H/8

5

5.5mm

I/9

4

6mm

J/10

3

6.5mm

K/10½

2

7mm

0

8mm

L/11

00

9mm

M/13

000

10mm

N/15

Which hook do I use? Hook size

UK yarn weight

2.5-3.5mm hook

4ply yarn

3.5-4.5mm hook

double knitting yarn

5-6mm hook

aran yarn

7mm and bigger

chunky yarn

UK/US conversions UK

US

chain

ch

chain

ch

slip stitch

ss

slip stitch

ss

double crochet

dc

single crochet

sc

half treble

htr

half double

hdc

treble

tr

double

dc

double treble

dtr

treble

tr

triple treble

ttr

double treble

dtr


CHARTS

Charts & Diagrams Here are the extra bits and pieces you’ll need to make the waistcoat stitch cowl and the Tunisian cushion in this issue.

Waistcoat stitch cowl, page 65 Key

26 25

Apple Green

24

Very Berry

23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 15

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10

5

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CHARTS

Key Orange (937) Blue (919) Lime Juice (392) Lilac (927)

Tunisian cushion, page 21

Pink (926)

64

63

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61

60

59

58

57

56

55

54

53

52

51

50

49

48

47

46

45

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2

1 60

55

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5


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MANDALA

tty Pre

d e g n l i a a ss t S

ented with grey in c c a e r hts a brig

Lucy Cro f

t’s str ik in

gm ake .

Psst

Win the to make ya  n th i ! Made in association with King Cole for stockists www.kingcole.com or call 01756 703670


Manda a GO PRO 4PLY WEIGHT

2.5MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q King Cole Giza Cotton 4ply (100%

cotton, 50g/158m), 1 ball of each: White (2190), Rosehip (2197), Amber (2200), Red (2202), Bluebell (2198), Grey (2207) Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook For yarn stockists, contact King Cole 01756 703670 www.kingcole.com

MEASUREMENTS 17cm (6¾in) diameter

ABBREVIATIONS 3-tr cluster (yrh, insert hook in st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 3 times, inserting the hook in the same st each time, yrh and draw through all 4 loops on hook For a full list, see page 92

Be inspired by the beauty of amazing stained glass windows, using dark grey (or black, if you’re feeling brave) to highlight and enhance your favourite brights and pastels. We think this would look stunning as a table centrepiece. MANDALA Using White, ch5, ss to first ch to join in a ring. Round 1 Ch1 (does not counts as str), 8dc into ring, ss to first dc to join. [8 dc] Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, ch1, (2tr in next dc, ch1) 7 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 3 Join Grey in first st, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same tr and next tr, spike st in centre ring, skip ch-1 sp, (dc in each of next 2 tr, spike st in centre ring, skip ch-1 sp) 7 times, ss to first dc to join, fasten off. Round 4 Join Rosehip in first dc, ch3 (counts as tr), tr in st at base of ch-3, 2tr in next tr, ch1, (2tr in each of next 2 tr, ch1) 7 times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join, fasten off. Round 5 Join Grey in first st, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same tr and each of next 3 tr, spike st in next spike st in Round 3, skip ch-1 sp, (dc in each of next 4 tr, spike st in next spike st in Round 3, skip ch-1 sp) 7 times, ss to first dc to join, fasten off. Round 6 Join White in first dc, ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in next tr, tr in next tr, 2tr in next tr, ch1, skip next spike st, *(tr in next tr, 2tr in next tr,) twice, ch1, skip next spike st; repeat from * 6 more times, ss to top of beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off. Round 7 Join Grey in first st, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same tr and each of next 5 tr, spike st in next spike st in Round 5, skip ch-1 sp, (dc in each of next 6tr, spike st in next spike st in Round 5, skip ch-1 sp) 7 times, ss to first dc to join, fasten off. Round 8 Join Bluebell in any spike st, ch4 (counts as dtr), (ch1, dtr) 6 times into st at base of ch-4, *(ch1, dtr) 7 times in next spike st; repeat from * 6 more times, ch1, ss to top

of beg ch-4 to join, fasten off. [8 fans] Round 9 Join Amber in 4th dtr of any fan, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same dtr, ch5, 3-tr cluster in ch-1 sp before next fan, ch5, (dc in 4th dtr of next fan ch5, 3-tr cluster in ch-1 sp before next fan, ch5) 7 times, ss to first dc to join, fasten off. Round 10 Join Red in first dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same dc, ch5, dc in next cluster, ch5, (dc in next dc, ch5, dc in next cluster, ch5) 7 times, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off. Round 11 Join Amber in first dc, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same dc, ch5, (dc in next dc, ch5) 15 times, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off. Round 12 Join Grey in first dc, *ch4, dtr in same dc, ch1, (dtr, ch4, ss) in next dc; repeat from * 15 more times working the last (dtr, ch4, ss) into the same dc as the first (ch-4, dtr), fasten off. Round 13 Join Rosehip in any ch-1 sp, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in same sp, (ch1, dc in next ch-4 sp, ch4, dc in next ch-4 sp, ch1, dc in next ch-1 sp) 16 times omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join. Round 14 Ch3 (counts as tr), (tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in next dc, 4tr in next ch-4 sp, tr in next dc, tr in next ch-1 sp, tr in next dc) 16 times omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join. Fasten off.

WIN YARN TO MAKE OUR GIZA MANDALA All of the projects in our mandala series are hooked in Giza, King Cole’s 100% cotton 4ply. The mercerised Egyptian cotton is fine, has a brilliant sheen and a luxurious feel. The cotton is grown in its namesake city, Giza, on the bank of the

96 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

win

Nile. The purity of the soil there results in fantastic clarity and depth in each of the 20 colourways. For the chance to win six balls of Giza yarn to hook this design, head to www. simplycrochetmag.co.uk/ win-king-cole-giza-yarn


ruffle stitch fashion

colourblock tableware asymmetric poncho

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ON SALE THURS 22 FEB * Contents subject to change


HOOKY TREASURE

Wolfie’s tale

Designer Esme Crick shares the story of her beloved Wolfie, who she hooked for the Bury St Edmunds’ wolf trail.

M

y favourite ever crochet make was a wolf, officially known as ‘Wolf in Sheep’s Clothing’, but we all called him Wolfie. He was one of 26 wolves made by local artists in Bury St Edmunds to celebrate the life (and grisly death) of King Edmund. Legend has it that a wolf found Edmund’s body after he had been killed by Vikings in the 9th century. A local sculptor constructed a wolf shape out of chicken wire and I started work on the coverings. I let him live in the kitchen, so we often ate dinner with a big wolf on the table! First, I attached a ‘skin’ of black felt to Wolfie so that he was snug in his undergarments. After that, it was a painstaking process of crocheting sections to fit on to his shape. His coat was made of many bright hexagons. His tail and paws were fairly straightforward once I’d made templates to copy in grey yarn. The biggest challenges were his face and ears, as they were made up of complex shapes. Once the 167 main 98 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

panels were sewn on to him I gave him a neckerchief to wear with sheep on it. He was so handsome! After three months of hard work, he emerged with a real character. I totally fell in love with him, as did my children. The feedback was unbelievable – he became a bit of a superstar when Lauren Laverne started talking about him on 6 Music, and she even gave him a mention at Glastonbury. Finally, it was time for Wolfie to be exhibited and auctioned for charity. The night before he left us, we had a party for him. He sat at the table while we had heart-shaped biscuits made by my daughter and I raised a glass of Prosecco to him. I think we may have cried a bit too – how ridiculous! But he had become part of the family. I don’t know where he is now, but every time I see a photo of him I feel very proud and a little sad, as he took a bit of my heart with him when he went off on his wolf adventures. Follow Esme onTwitter at @esmecrick and you can find her blog at redsparrowcrochet.blogspot.co.uk


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THE VERY BEST OF THIS SEASON’S LOOKS

super Socks!

3 designs To hook

Socks to suiT All sKills! STRIPY SET

EASY MAKE

LOVELY & LACY

Sta t he e fo  you fi  t sock!


Top tips for socks

Designer Rohn Strong shares his top tips with us to help you hook beautiful, perfect pairs of crochet socks, time after time.

R

ohn Strong says: “When we begin crocheting, we often have dreams of creating elaborate sweaters or afghans, or simply being able to complete a square dishcloth without it going all wonky on us. I, however, always wanted to crochet socks. “Crocheted socks, though, are a special beast I’ve tried to spend much of my design career taming. Today I’d like to share with you some of my top sock tips. I use this info on every sock design I begin, and they never fail me. Just starting out? Choose a light, solid coloured yarn so it’s easy to see where your hook should go. You can move onto gorgeous variegated sock yarns later.” Take a look at our little exploration of sock anatomy and brush up your knowledge before you begin.

THE FOOT: INSTEP The instep is the top of the foot. It’s a good place for using a fancy stitch.

THE TOE Choose a toe/heel combo you love! I always use a simple, strong heel and a star toe as they are comfortable, fit almost everyone, and I have the patterns memorised.

THE FOOT: SOLE

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Choose a stitch for the sole that’s comfy to wear, and solid for maximum durability.


sock anatomy Measure nd your foot a p it u cuff, write ndy. ha and keep it r go You’ll neve wrong!

THE CUFF

Cuffs are usually made in a rib stitch to give stretch to this part of the sock. They’re for keeping the socks up on your leg!

THE LEG

GUSSET INCREASES

This may seem silly, but I always keep the leg and foot the same length for me, no matter what design I’m working on (though it does change a little depending on the stitch, as some stretch more in one direction than the other). It makes life easier knowing how long the sock needs to be when you start your heel, and you’ll also ensure both socks are the same size!

THE HEEL FLAP

GUSSET DECREASES The gusset is a small triangle of fabric on both sides of the foot that gives the foot a bit of extra space and can give the sock a custom fit. With cuff down socks like the ones in this collection, the gusset is worked after the heel flap.

It’s good to try new things, so do try different heels and toes. Although I design using the techniques I know people will want to try, for myself I keep things simple. You can also find what works for you and stick with it – especially when you’re making socks for yourself.

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Psst

 om f e  o o h C   to u o l o c 0 2 e! e h t e k a m

Fruit cocktail

These no-nonsense socks, worked mostly in double crochet, are super simple to hook. By Rohn Strong.


EASY PEASY 4 PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4 Ply

(75% wool, 25% nylon, 400m/100g), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Sour Apple (390), Yarn B Blackcurrant Bomb (735) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Stitch markers Q Tapestry needle For yarn stockists contact West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com

Start the socks by working a ribbed section for four rows, then you can start to work the heel.

Little ankle socks are quick to make and look terrific. These ones come topped with ribbing for a neat edge and chic decoration, and will look brilliant with brogues.

TENSION

NOTES

24 sts and 21 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over pattern using a 3mm hook

Sock is worked in joined rounds from cuff to toe. SOCKS

MEASUREMENTS

LEG

Foot length: adjustable Foot circumference: 20 (21.5: 25)cm (8 (8½: 9¾) in)

Using Yarn A and a 3mm hook, work 48 (54: 60) ftr, ss in first tr to join, pm for start/end of round. [48 (54: 60) sts] Rounds 1-4 Ch2 (does not count as st), *1FPtr, 1BPtr; rep from * around, ss in first FPtr.

ABBREVIATIONS ftr (Foundation treble crochet) Ch4, yrh, insert hook in fourth ch from hook, yrh, draw yarn through as for a normal tr, work an extra ‘ch1’ by putting yrh and drawing yarn through first loop on hook, complete as for a normal tr; the next st will be worked into the ch-1 of the prev st, adding the extra ch1 at the same point exdc (Extended double crochet) Insert hook in st, yrh, pull through, yrh, pull through first loop only, yrh, pull through both loops For a full list, see page 92 of Simply Crochet

HEEL Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 24 (26: 30) exdc (sts for instep), exdc around (sts for heel), ss in first st. [48 (54: 60) sts] Round 2 Ch1, 24 (26: 30) exdc, 2exdc in next st, exdc to last st, 2exdc in last st, ss in first st. [50 (56: 62) sts] Rep Round 2 until there are 44 (48: 52) sts for the heel, turn. [68 (74: 82) sts]

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HEEL TURN Work in rows on the heel sts only. Row 1 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), 23 (25: 27) dc, dc2tog, 1dc, turn. Row 2 Ch1, dc in each of the first 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in next st, turn. Row 3 Ch1, dc in each of the first 5 sts, dc2tog over next st and next unworked st of Heel, dc in next st of Heel, turn. Row 4 Ch1, dc in each of the next 6 sts, dc2tog over next st and next unworked st of Heel, dc in next st of Heel, turn. Cont as set, working 1 additional st in each row, until all sts are worked. [24 (28: 30) heel sts and 24 (26: 30) instep sts]

FOOT

For the heel turn, you’ll work in rows instead of rounds for four rows, then return to rounds.

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Work in rounds again. Round 1 Ch1, exdc in each st, ss to first st. Rep Round 1 until Foot is desired length from back of heel minus 5cm (2in) to allow for toe. Fasten off.


TOE Round 1 Join Yarn B in first st, ch1, (1dc, dc2tog, 19 (22: 25) dc, dc2tog) twice, ss in first st. [44 (50: 56) sts] Round 2 and all even rounds Ch1, dc in each st to end, ss in first st. Round 3 Ch1, (1dc, dc2tog, 17 (20: 23) dc, dc2tog) twice, ss in first st. [40 (46: 52) sts] Round 5 Ch1, (1dc, dc2tog, 15 (18: 21) dc, dc2tog) twice, ss in first st. [36 (42: 48) sts]

Round 7 Ch1, (1dc, dc2tog, 13 (16: 19) dc, dc2tog) twice, ss in first st. [32 (38: 44) sts] Cont as set decreasing 4 sts every alt round until 24 (26: 36) sts remain, fasten off. TO FINISH Close toe. Weave in all ends. Wash following any instructions given on the ball band and lay socks flat to block.

SIMPLE STEPS DIFFERENT WAYS WITH SEAMS

1 Sewing with a tapestry needle is a regular and neat way to join seams. Place two pieces of crochet wrong sides together and oversew them as shown above, using a tapestry or yarn needle.

2 To slip stitch a seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together. *Insert hk through both edge stitches, yrh, pull through to complete 1 slip stitch; rep from *, keeping your work fairly loose.

3 For a dc seam, place the crochet pieces right sides together, or wrong sides together for a visible seam. Work as for slip stitch seam, using double crochet instead of slip stitch.

4 A useful variation on the dc seam, the dc and chain seam is used when you need less bulk and/or greater flexibility in your seam. Work as for the dc seam, but work 1 dc and 1 chain alternately.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 7


Psst

in m e h t e k Ma ite  u o v a f yo u  e  shad

Lace lines

These socks are perfect with pumps so you can show off the pretty stitch pattern. By Rohn Strong.


A BIT TRICKY 4 PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

Some outfits need a delicate touch, and what’s more delicate than lace? These socks will look fab worn with jeans, or show them off in cool sandals under a long, flowing skirt. This pretty pair has a clever afterthought heel, so you can try a new technique.

YOU WILL NEED

NOTES

Q West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4 Ply

Sock is worked in joined rounds from the cuff to the toe. A gap is left for the heel which is added at the end.

(75% wool, 25% nylon, 400m/100g), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Blue Raspberry (333) Yarn B Blackcurrant Bomb (735) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Stitch markers Q Tapestry needle For yarn stockists contact West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com

SOCKS

LEG Using Yarn A and 3mm hook, work 48 (54: 60) ftr, ss in first st to join. Rounds 1-4 Ch2 (does not count as a st throughout), *FPtr, BPtr; rep from * around, ss in first st. [48 (54: 60) sts] Round 5 Ch2, *FPtr, skip next 2 sts, 5tr in next st,

TENSION 24 sts and 21 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over pattern using a 3mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Foot length: adjustable Foot circumference: 20 (22.5: 25)cm (8 (8¾: 9¾)in) Leg length: adjustable

ABBREVIATIONS ftr (Foundation treble crochet) Ch4, yrh, insert hook in fourth ch from hook, yrh, draw yarn through as for a normal tr, work an extra ‘ch1’ by putting yrh and drawing yarn through first loop on hook, complete as for a normal tr; the next st will be worked into the ch-1 of the prev st, adding the extra ch1 at the same point For a full list, see page 92 of Simply Crochet

Work all of the foot and leg parts of the sock first, then insert the heel into the gap left for it.

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skip next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in first st. Rep Round 5 until leg is 10cm or desired length.

HEEL OPENING Next round Ch2, 24ftr, skip next 24 sts, *FPtr, skip next 2 sts, 5tr in next st, skip next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in first st. [48 (54: 60) sts] Repeat Round 5 of Leg as set, until foot measures 5cm (2in) less than desired length to end of toe.

Work the rows of raised stitches with simple FPtrs and BPtrs (Front Post and Back Post trebles).

SIMPLE STEPS WORK A FRONT POST TREBLE STITCH

1 Identify the post of the next stitch. Then work yrh (as usual for a treble stitch) and insert hook into the front of the fabric, around the back of the post, and bring out hook on other side of post.

2 Work the rest of the stitch as you usually would for a treble, so yrh and carefully pull the loop of yarn out of the fabric – it should loop around the post of the stitch.

3 Work yrh again and pull the yarn through the first 2 loops. Yrh and pull the yarn through the remaining 2 loops to complete the front post treble stitch.

4 You’ll see how the stitch is raised up, compared to the rest of the fabric. Work more front post treble stitches in the same way, repeating from Step 1.

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acy socks TOE

HEEL

Round 1 Join Yarn B, ch1, dc in each st around, ss in first st. Round 2 Ch1, (dc2tog, 10 (11: 13) dc, dc2tog, 10 (12: 13) dc) twice, ss in first st. [44 (50: 56) sts] Round 3 and all odd rounds Ch1, dc in each st to end, ss in first st. Round 4 Ch1, (dc2tog, 9 (10: 12) dc, dc2tog, 9 (11: 12) dc) twice, ss in first st. [40 (46: 52) sts] Round 6 Ch1, (dc2tog, 8 (9: 11) dc, dc2tog, 8 (10: 11) dc) twice, ss in first st. [36 (42: 48) sts] Cont as set, decreasing 4 sts every alt round until 24 (30: 36) sts remain. Fasten off.

Round 1 Join Yarn B, work 48dc around opening made in foot for heel, ss in first st. Work as for FIRST SIZE toe instructions. TO FINISH Close toe and heel. Weave in all ends. Wash following any instructions on ball band and lay flat to block.

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Psst

4ply e  u t a n g Si e i machine w a habl

Bold & beautiful

Make a statement with socks that zing! These self-stripers really stand out with their strong colours. By Rohn Strong.


stripy socks A BIT TRICKY 4 PLY WEIGHT

3MM HOOK

YOU WILL NEED Q West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4 Ply

(75% wool, 25% nylon, 400m/100g), 1 ball of each: Yarn A Blue Lagoon (831) Yarn B Blackcurrant Bomb (735) Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook Q Stitch markers Q Tapestry needle For yarn stockists contact West Yorkshire Spinners 01535 664500 www.wyspinners.com

The heels are in a solid colour for contrast, and the cuffs are worked sideways for a ribbed effect.

TENSION 24 sts and 15 rows to measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over pattern using a 3mm hook

MEASUREMENTS Foot length: adjustable Foot circumference: 20 (21.5: 25)cm (8 (8½: 9¾)in) Leg length: adjustable

The easiest way to get stripes in your crochet projects is to use a self-striping yarn, and that’s why this yarn is just perfect for the job of creating Rohn’s snazzy socks. If blue shades aren’t for you, there are 16 other variegated shades in the range to choose from.

NOTES ABBREVIATIONS For a full list, see page 92 of Simply Crochet

Cuff is worked sideways in rows and joined. The leg is then picked up along one edge and the sock continues in the round to the toe. SOCK

CUFF Row 1 Using Yarn A and 3mm hook, ch12, dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [11 sts] Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout),

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dc in back loop only of each st to end, turn. Row 3 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Rep Rows 2 and 3 for a total of 48 (52: 60) rows. Sew to start and end of cuff together.

LEG

The leg length is variable, so you could go for cutes anklets or travel higher up the shins.

Set-up round Join Yarn A on one edge of cuff, 48 (52: 60) dc, ss in first st to join. Round 1 Ch2 (does not count as a st throughout), *2htr in first st, skip next st; rep from * to end, ss to first st. [48 (52: 60) sts]

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO DECREASE IN DOUBLE CROCHET (DC2TOG)

1 Start by inserting the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch on the previous row. Begin to work a double crochet stitch in the usual way, working yrh and pull loop through (2 loops on hook).

2 Without finishing the first dc, begin the next dc by inserting the hook in the next stitch on the previous row. Again, work yrh and pull loop through (3 loops on hook).

3 Now complete both dc stitches together by working yrh and pull this loop through all 3 loops on the hook.

4 This is how your completed dc2tog should look. You will have decreased one stitch. On subsequent rows, you can work a stitch into the top of the dc2tog stitch as usual.

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stripy socks Rep Round 1 until Leg measures 12cm (4¾in) or the desired length from top of cuff.

HEEL FLAP Work in rows. Row 1 Join Yarn B, ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), 24 (26: 30) dc, turn. Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st across, turn. Rep Row 2 until heel meas 6cm (2½in) from beg.

HEEL TURN Row 1 Ch1, 13 (14: 16) dc, dc2tog, dc in next st, turn. Row 2 Ch1, dc in each of first 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in next st, turn. Note There will be a small gap between working sts for the heel turn and the unworked heel stitches. Row 3 Ch1, dc in each st across to last st, dc2tog

over next st and adjacent st on last row of Heel Flap, dc in next st on Heel Flap, turn. Rep Row 3 until all the side sts are worked. [14 (16: 16) sts] Fasten off.

GUSSET You will now be working in rounds again. Round 1 Join Yarn A in first st, ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of dc across Heel Turn to last 2 sts, dc2tog, 12 (14: 14) dc along side of Heel Flap, patt across 24 (26: 30) instep sts, 12 (14: 14) dc along other side of Heel Flap, ss in first st. [60 (68: 72) sts] Round 2 Ch1, dc2tog, dc in each of dc across Heel Turn to last 2 sts, dc2tog, patt along side of Heel Flap, the instep and the other side of Heel Flap, ss in first st. Rep Round 2 until 48 (52: 60) sts rem.

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stripy socks FOOT Round 1 Ch2, work in patt around, ss in first st. Rep Round 1 until Foot is desired length minus 5cm (2in) from back of heel. Fasten off.

TOE Round 1 Join Yarn B, ch1, dc in each st around, ss in first st. Round 2 Ch1, *(10 (11: 13) dc, dc2tog; rep from * three times more, ss in first st. [44 (48: 56) sts] Round 3 and all odd rounds Ch1, dc in each st around, ss in first st. Round 4 Ch1, *(9 (10, 12) dc, dc2tog; rep from * three times more, ss in first st. [40 (44: 52) sts] Round 6 Ch1, *(8 (9, 11) dc, dc2tog; rep from * three times more, ss in first st. [36 (40: 48) sts]

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Cont decreasing 4 sts every even-numbered round until 24 (28: 36) sts remain. Fasten off. TO FINISH Close toe. Weave in all ends. Wash following any instructions on ball band and lay flat to block.

C

het

Printed in the UK. Presented with issue 67 of Simply Crochet.


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EL E FR RIA T


GOOD READ

SOCK YARN RULES, OK?

Rohn gives us his unique perspective on favourite sock yarns.

S

ock yarns are abundant, and overwhelming. A simple search online will garner thousands and thousands of results. From self-striping to variegated to solid, you have many amazing colour choices to make. I implore you, however, to look beyond the colour and at the content. It is the content, after all, that makes the character. When we crochet socks, we need our chosen yarn to do two specific things: it needs to stretch, and it needs to be strong. Now, before we continue, we need to establish some basic rules of sock yarn choice with crochet. You need wool. You need it. While it is rare (but possible) to find a milk or tofu or soy or some other kind of sock yarn out there, wool is

18 WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM

best. I hear from a lot of people who assume that sock yarn is expensive if it contains wool – this is not true. As you can see, all the West Yorkshire Spinners yarn I’ve used in my mini collection of patterns here is affordable and contains wool. Cotton thread will not work for your socks. Hundreds of people have emailed me over the years asking why it won’t work. If our standard tube socks are cotton, we can crochet with it, right? No. Crochet cotton thread is different from the polyester/cotton/elastic blend used in the standard socks we purchase from the store. Crochet cotton has been through special processes to ensure that it is strong, resists change, and lasts forever. While it would be great if our sock yarn could meet all three of those


GOOD READ

criteria, it doesn’t (although a good sock yarn will last a very long time). Trust me, I’ve tried making a sock out of crochet cotton. They quickly went into the bin! A good sock yarn with a 3 to 1 wool to nylon content is what works best, in my opinion. I tend to stay away from cashmere, as I don’t trust it. That, I think, dates back to a cashmere incident as a child. I just can’t trust the stuff. [Now we’re intrigued! – Ed] A 75% wool and 25% nylon blend such as the Signature 4ply used here can easily be found. The wool gives us stretch and breathability, while the nylon provides strength and lightens the socks just a bit. THE SECRET TO SELF-STRIPING YARNS I know this is controversial, but self-striping yarns are great – for knitters. Crocheters have always got the blunt end of that stick. Often self-striping yarns devolve into a mess of pooled colours that nary look like what we see on the label. The manufacturers are not lying to us, no matter how it might seem! Self-striping yarn, at least when it is commercially produced, is done so with the gauge of the knitter in mind, but that is just one standard gauge. If you happened to be knitting a pair of socks out of self-striping

yarn and it didn’t match the recommended gauge, the same issue will happen to you as it does to those of us who also knit socks. Don’t get me wrong, once in a while that’s just what we need to make us smile in the morning, but I like symmetry. It’s the Poirot in me. I need perfection in order to feel at peace. The best way to do this and work with self-striping yarns? Get the right gauge. It sounds too simple to be true, but it is. The self-striping yarn we use is tailored to a specific gauge or tension, so we need to find what gauge works for us and what gauge is perfectly suited to that yarn. This takes time and, yes, swatching. If that is all too much for you, as sometimes it is for me, I enjoy choosing three favourite colours of sock yarn and creating my own self-striping yarn. Simply crochet with one colour for a few rows, then switch to another. Repeat this process, self-striping your yarn until you get to the heel, and work that in a solid colour or continue with the stripes. While working the latter of the two choices requires a tad more yarn management, it is worth the trouble. However, having said all this, I’ve done all the heavy lifting for you in the design of the Bold & Beautiful stripy socks in this booklet, so if you’ve successfully made a plain pair, why not try these? Have fun with your socks!

More about Rohn Strong Rohn is an author, designer, instructor, and broadcast personality, based in the US. He specialises in crochet, Tunisian crochet, hand knitting, and loom knitting. Rohn’s latest book is Step Into Crochet (published by F+W, 2017). A great reference guide with tons of advice and in-depth information on construction methods and toe and heel ideas, it also contains 19 patterns, taking you from simple designs to using lace, colourwork, cables and motifs. Find more about Rohn at http://rohnstrong.com, and on social media he’s @rohnstrong everywhere except Twitter, where he’s @rohn_strong.

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BRITISH KNITTING & CROCHET AWARDS

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND YOUR NEAREST STOCKIST VISIT

WWW.WYSPINNERS.COM TEL: (0)1535 664500 · EML: SALES@WYSPINNERS.COM


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