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Editorial Publisher: Patissier Chef Michael General Manager: Lance Hobson Creative Director: Patissier Chef Michael Research Editor: Jason Parker Assistant Director and Projects: Paul Anderson Editors: Kathy Wilson Columnist: Oliver Andrews Advertising Sales Chef Michael CelPhone: (240)997-3623 ŠDessert Esoteric Magazine 2013 All Rigths Reserved Subscription is via the IStore, and Magzter, published six times a year, newstand publications are $2.99 per issue. yearly subscriptions are $17.94.


This is the premier issue of a digital publication exclusively for the hospitality Industry, utilizing a culmination of several disciplines that have lead to the creation of a truly digital interactive publication. The impetus and methods for creating Desert Esoteric, stemmed from the advent of new technologies having been realized over the last couple of years for slates and tablets. The first issue, capitalizes on many of the features available for the I Pad, bringing to bear several enhancements such as interactive slide shows, embedded videos, 360 degree virtual tours and Panoramas.

So what separates Dessert Esoteric, from other publications available today? Number one, less fluff, most publications today are essentially co-subsidized by advertisements, as a matter of fact, so many, that if you took a total tally count of the number of advertisements in relationship to the total number of pages front to back, you might find as much as 25% just taken up in ad space. Some Chefs have had issues with this, not from the sheer number of ads, but the question of what value is being derived from the publication of such a high percentage of ads, vs. quality contextual material.

The drivers for creating the publication Dessert Esoteric were not just to create a digital novelty of a printed medium, but to create an entirely new publication from the ground up, employing premium photography, videography, functional recipes that actually work, and developing an e-learning platform for the advancement and evolution of Pastry Arts.

Albeit, Ads can be informative, they are designed to sell a product, and there is nothing wrong with that. What one of the objectives of Dessert Esoteric maintains, is that of contextual value, in the way of intuitive thought provoking articles, real world usable recipes, informative resources are of significantly more value to Chefs, that’s the premise, a subscription based publication model, based on quality. I hope you value the maiden launch of Dessert Esoteric, much time and effort went into putting it together. Enjoy!

Months after initially researching the multitude of options available, a solution was devised to bring Dessert Esoteric to the I Store. In addition a web OS version for those that do not as of yet own a slate, is also available, opening in a browser on your desktop. The OS version does not have some of the fancier bells and whistles that the I Pad version has, but contextually the material is nearly identical to the I Pad version.

Patissier Chef Michael Creative Director - Publisher





































01 STATE OF PASTRY Undeniably, the Culinary Industry has changed over the past several decades. Remembering the time, nearly thirty years ago, all the majors working in hotels were mostly from Europe. Today the landscape of Culinary, more over, Pastry is very different. The Industry has been trumped up by programs as Top Chef, and the food network, glorifying the profession, as something dynamic and cool to do vs. working in an office cubicle. The economy has also changed the dynamic of the industry, even in Europe, where a puritist vision has always been maintained. Rising food costs, labor shortages, even the cost of getting a formalized education in Culinary is no small endeavour today. Part of the belief is that many of the cut backs and trimmings to budgets have had a long standing and deep rooted repercussion throughout the industry as a whole. Senior Chefs on staff, even MOF’s have been cut, supplanting a secondary support crew in properties large and small, forcing longer hours if salaried, and more stringent work conditions, such as monitoring food costs, under a microscope. One larger property I was working in back in 08’ right before the housing bubble came to fruition, asked me to have my staff of regular full time employees take mandatory vacation days weekly, in an effort to curtail costs. Frightening prospects, not knowing who will be cut next, including management, in uncertain environs such as these. Things are simply different, very frequently, if in retail for example, that boxed product, came out of a freezer and was tractor trailered in on an eighteen wheeler. The in house staff are very frequently relegated to finishers and mirroring the hotel industry,glorified “box openers”.


There is a trend that has been noted as of late in the industry that has a disconcerting ring to it, at least here in the states. It could emanate from Americans having acquired a reputation for being coddled or spoiled, perhaps complacent in some respects. In some instances, a more experienced qualified Chef, may be passed over for someone “greener”, there are a couple of reasons for this. One, costs for labor has become as expensive as anything else, even taking into consideration inflation adjusted wages, which have not kept up with the costs of living. Two, and this is a recurring pattern, re-iterated by many colleagues out in the field, a Chef might be inclined to hire someone younger, maybe with little to no training due to they being more “moldable” and conforming more readily to requisites of the house rather than hiring a “seasoned” trained individual. In an effort to maintain a state of conformity, operations today may have the capacity to generate a “product”, inexpensively, but may have negated loosing an ability to truly create and develop new items,from time to time. This formula, seems to be working though, due in part to the economy as of this writing, still being in the doldrums. I recently spoke with a friend of mine, who still continues to work at the same catering company from years ago, not having changed their format from perhaps 10 years plus. So there it is, complacency has led to a stagnation in the industry, very few new ideas coming down the pike, if it works, why fix it, is the operandi of the day. This may be OK, if you are in a state of suspended animation, and work in an industry that does not change over time, but Culinary does change, techniques evolve, equipment, ingredients, materials, morph. Without an ability to try new things, venture out, and simply “create”, we as Chefs essentially derail and bifurcate away from the reasons of why we got into the business in the first place. It’s the builder quality, within us, the imagination, vision and engineers within us all that Compel us to make and serve terrific food.





LUIGI HervE Formerly of Chef, Yannick Cam’s Le Paradou, chef Hervé, had extensive training in Europe. His training included graduating from CPA (Center de formation D’ apprentis) in France with certification rankings in Pastry, Bakery, Chocolatier and sweet Confectionery. FAVORITE DESSERT: My mother’s creme caramel, reminding me of childhood. LEAST APPRECIATED DESSERT: I enjoy all desserts, but not ones that are overly sweet. FAVORITE TOOL: My spatula, the one I have is very flexible, and I use it for most everything. SPECIALTY: French Pastries, I enjoy creating desserts that incorporate herbs and spices. FAVORITE INGREDIENT TO WORK WITH: Berries, they are healthy, tasty and add color vibrancy. BEST PART OF THE BUSINESS: Seeing how the customer enjoys the varieties of Pastries we serve. WHAT DO YOU WISH YOU KNEW ABOUT THE INDUSTRY BEFORE GETTING IN TO IT: The hours at time can bee long, but this is normal for the restaurant industry. IF YOU WERE NOT A PASTRY CHEF, WHAT WOULD YOU HAVE BEEN DOING?” I started when I was 15, so I didn’t have an opportunity to explore options. However, when I was young, I liked the construction site, perhaps an Engineer or Architect.


Ingredients for Pistachio Joconde Pistachio Flour powdered sugar whole eggs egg whites sugar all purpose flour melted butter

6.7 oz. 6.7 oz. 8 oz. 5.7 oz. 1 oz. 2 oz. 1.7 oz.

Procedure: 1. In a bowl, whip eggs, pistachio flour, and powdered sugar. 2. In a separate bowl, beat egg whites and gradually add the sugar until medium peak. 3. fold flour into the egg mixture from step 1, and stream in the melted butter. 4. fold in egg whites. 5. spread evenly into a full sheet pan. 6. bake at 375 F convection for minutes. Ingredients for Pistachio Buttercream: granulated sugar 3.76 oz. unsalted butter 16.95 oz. whole milk 3.37 oz. egg yolks 2.64 oz. granulated sugar 4.89 oz. water 1.22 oz. egg whites 2.44 oz. Pistachio paste 11 oz. Procedure: 1. heat 4.89 oz. sugar and water until 250 F. 2. remove sugar from heat and add to the medium peak whipped egg whites, whip mixture until cool. 3. boil milk. 4. mix the 3.76 oz. of sugar and egg yolks. add the milk to the mixture to temper. 5. heat the mixture to 185F. 6. place in a mixing bowl after cooling and add the butter and mix until blended. 8. combine the pistachio paste.


lemon basil filling Buttercream pastry cream lemon juice fresh basil leaves

Ingredients for Macaron Granulated sugar Almond flour powdered sugar water Egg whites Egg whites

28 oz. 14 oz. 7 oz. 4 oz.

Procedure: 36 36 36 7 12.50 14.50

oz. oz. oz. oz. oz. oz.

yellow food color green food color

1. Rinse basil leaves and blend them with lemon juice. 2. Mix the buttercream and the pastry cream until emulsified. 3. add the basil mixture 4. fill macaroons with mixture, and refrigerate.

Procedure: 1. heat granulated sugar with water until temperature reaches 240 F. 2. In a mixing bowl whip 12.5 oz. egg whites to a medium peak and pour in the cooked sugar as per an Italian meringue. 3. combine the almond flour and powdered sugar in a food processor and sift the mixture. 4. once the meringue is warm, add the 13.50 oz. of egg whites in addition to the food coloring. 5. pour in the almond mixture. 6. fold in the almond flour and develop the sponge texture, not removing too much air. 7. prepare a piping bag with a plain #10 tip and pipe the mixture to 2� in size. 8 rap each sheetpan of completed macarons to remove an inconsistencies in air pockets. allow macaroons to dry for a minimum of 30 minutes 9. bake macaroons for 9 minutes at 300 F.

Ingredients for Pastry Cream Milk Egg yolk Sugar Hot process Powder Butter

9.50 2.00 2.00 0.75 0.75

oz. oz. oz. oz. oz.

Procedure: 1. Boil the milk 2. Mix in a bowl, the sugar, yolks, and hot process pastry cream powder. 3. Pour 1/3 of the milk into the egg mixture to temper. 4. Reincorporate the mixture back into the into the rest of the milk. 5. Once mixture has been brought to a boil, place in a mixing bowl with a whip Attachment, and start adding butter to it. 6. Allow to cool, refrigerate.


Ingredients for Kuglof

Ingredients for glaze:

Levain: All purpose flour bread flour fresh yeast water

18 oz. 14 oz. 3.6 oz. 25 oz.

45 14 22 64 6 2 4 14 15 2

4 oz. 3 oz. 1 oz.

Procedure: 1. heat glaze with water. 2. remove from heat, and add kirch.

Ingredients for Kuhlof Dough: All purpose flour bread flour eggs butter (room temperature) sugar salt water Raisins orange confit cubes kirch

neutral glaze water kirch

oz. oz. oz. oz. oz. oz. oz. oz. oz. oz.

Procedure for the Levain: 1 . Combine flours, yeast and cold water with a paddle. 2. mix at high speed, allow to develop until dough clings to paddle. 3. cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. Procedure for Kulof: 1. Combine in mixer, all purpose flour, bread flour, eggs, sugar, and water and mix at medium speed. 2. scrape the bowl and add levain, mix and scrape again. 3. add 1/2 of the amount of butter. continue mixing. 4. Once mixture has been thoroughly developed, add the remaining amount of butter. 5. continue mixing, add the raisins, orange confits and kirch. 6. mix well on high speed. 7. cover and allow to rest in refrigerator for 24 hours. 8. scale to 18 oz. for each mold. 9. shape the dough as a ball and let rest for a few minutes. 10. make a perforation in center of dough. 11. place dough in a greased mold and allow to proof for 1 hr. at 95 F. 12. bake the Kuglof for 30 minutes at 375 F. 13. unmold an place on tray, place back in oven for another 10 minutes. 14. remove from the oven and glaze. dust with powdered sugar.




Good desserts, start with good design! Very frequently in Culinary, we as Chefs, are caught off guard, having to conjure up a menu, or last minute request on a moments notice. This shouldn’t negate having put some proper pre thought into what will become your mainstay menu items. With a proper understanding of flavors, how they work together, synergy of tastes, textures, and the makeup of ingredients and how they work together can provide optimum results. So how does the creative process begin? What comes first, to begin with, an establishment of what I call a thematic always helps, usually this is based on seasonal availably of what’s is available at it’s best. In the way of fruits, for example, and when it comes to ones such as rhubarb, figs, cherries, they all have narrow windows of availability. Also in addition to flavor “profiles” keeping in check with one another, one must look at the color spectrum of how the dessert is finally going to come together. Textural contrasts, usually only come with some type of precedent based upon already “having tried something like” what you are shooting for.

milk chocolate mousse feuilletine layer crunchy puffed rice layer

The more experience a Chef has typically determines, the comfort level of being able to spindle up new creations, and offer impetus on what should be done. One of the the very frequently overlooked parts of the creation process, not only has to do with how the dessert will taste, but moreover, how “it eats” cutting into a dessert and having it shatter into a million pieces, spoils the effect of presentation. Components deemed to chewy, crunchy, even soft, that provide more than adequate structure, or by the same token, not enough, can lead to problems later on.


o how would one go about creating a dessert and taking it from being good, to simply glorious. Something that satisfies critics alike, balanced, eye appealing, implementing a well balanced flavor profile, while offering that little something special that will make it sell.

comfy riding on your own laurels. You may find yourself getting complacent, only staying with what you know, never venturing out and trying new things. Experiment, with different flavor combinations, if you think it may work, there is a very good chance it probably will. One of the cookies I made for a food emporium in DC, Apart from trends, inspiration can be found proved to be so successful, it was implemented most anywhere, but the idea is not just to copy company wide and folded into the company’s an existing dessert, but to somehow, improve repore. Simple actually, a chocolate chip cookie upon it. One of the more modern approaches to batter, but with an addition of pretzels and individualized pastry coming out of France is to potato chips and sea salt, called a “salty snack” have an individualized pastry as a sphere. Two became hugely popular... demi spheres, sandwiched together, filled and frozen with complimentary ingredients. I did Study up on flavor combinations, and how they these two versions of basically the same work together, also know your chocolate and dessert, one with a rose-hibiscus chibaust how percentages, single origin varietals impart cream, raspberry jelee, and coconut dacquoise. different flavors. Fruits also, some of which It had a kappa red fruit gel covering made with marry well together like mango, passion fruit, raspberry, and a puffed rice, chocolate/hazelnut orange and sweet caramel. The idea is balance, base. not having one flavor profile necessarily over power any others, to maintain a continuity of I knew the flavor profiles, of the alternate as flavors that seemlessly come together. well, Raspberry Chibaust, vanilla creme brulee, and coconut dacquoise, but as an alternate, a sprayed chocolate brownie base. and a red cocoa butter sprayed exterior, same thematic, slightly different presentations and tastes.

I also was secure in the having tested the recipes, knowing that they were wind tunnel tested, and all worked beautifully. The aesthetics were in place, the flavor profiles were established, and it was a matter of just putting together the assemblies. One thing after several years of doing pastry, is we have a tendency to acquire intellectual property from here and there. Some of it works, we like it, and it stays for keeps, other recipes, have questionable DNA, they were drawn up by another person within the establishment, and at times, we are compelled to have to use the “house recipes”, even when we know ours may be significantly better. All the same, for what it’s worth, you will know what to keep, and what to loose in the way of reliable inspiration, it just takes experience. You may even, if you are fortuanate be able to come up with a very good A. version in addition to a B. version and can cherry pick between the two, ideally. But the point is, don’t limit yourself, open up the flood gates of imagination and be adventuresome, it’s better to try something new and go out on a limb, into uncharted waters, then to get too

Underatanding flavor relationships prove to be invaluable in designing desserts with balanced flavor profiles.

rapberry jelee coconut dacquoise rapberry jelee raspberry chibaust



DE-MYSTIFIED Endearing, nobel, exquisite, if made correctly French macarons are now found most everywhere. Everyone has there own recipe, there own way of making them, French meringue based, Italian meringue based. Is there a secret? A year ago while working at Dean and Deluca, where we sold more macarons then we had the ability to keep in stock. I shot a video documenting some of the finer nuances on how to make these gems. Of the observations I have made over the years, here are the vitals that matter most, this list is by any means a catch all end all compilation, some very good guidelines to follow. 1. have an inclination to only make the macs on a dryier day, no rain, or prospect of rain. 2. Ironically barometric pressure has an effect on the macs, with the prospect of weather, hold off on making them. 3. the absorption of the water content in the egg whites has an effect on the hydration of the macs themselves, hence a finer ground almond flour/powdered sugar TPT (tant pour tant) mixture will yield more desirable and consistent results. 4. If your recipe calls for powdered egg whites use them sparingly, for an excess amount of whites, yields an overly spongy finished meringue. 5. rapping out the air, once the finished units have been piped, is critical to consistent results.

6. proper drying is imperative, especially with some kitchens, where we have no control over humidity conditions. 7. with the added stability of a small percentage of cornstarch, as a stabilizer, even cartoned liquid egg whites can be used, as long as they are not SLS or super whip eggs whites. 8. gel colors are preferred to powdered for better dispersion and final control over color. 9. forced air drying is possible, for example having the macs rack mounted in front of a convection oven with the cooling blower fans on with open doors. 10.the macs need to vent, this means opening damper on a convection oven, they also bake well in a rotor rack, by following these procedures. 11.The macs benefit from bottom heat, which gives them spring and creates the feet, an oven temperature too low will not cause them to rise. 12.utensils, bowls, whips, spatulas, must be clean,oil free and dry. 13.a trick I used for preventing the macs from getting too much color was to invert them 180 degrees half way through the baking process, and slip an inverted sheetpan over top of the existing one, to keep their color. 14. a shinny surface can be achieved by bagging and freezing the macs as they come out of oven. 15.macarons bake better on silpat vs. parchment paper. 16.yolk based buttercreams, vs. egg white buttercreams yield better flavor, but need refrigeration. 17.curds, pastes, jams. and ganaches also work well as fillings.



Several components were taken into consideration, when envisioning this dessert. I wanted to keep a thematic of berry,lavender, and violet, offset with hints of yogurt, pomegranate, and moscato. There were also elements of raspberry, coconut, and mojito sorbets The flavor profile is intense, complicated, yet refined.

Raspberry Fizzy Rock Boil: 250 gr. sugar 100 gr. water add: 50 gr. fizzy 1 grated lime 10 gr.powdered lyo raspberry cook to 284F /140C

White chocolate Azuleta powder combine in Robot Coupe: 80 gr. mato powder 140 gr. white chocolate 10 gr. Azuleta a few drops of purple, fat based color.

White chocolate malto powder combine: 80 gr. maltodextin 140 gr. melted white chocolate

Yopol meringue chips whip: 150 50 100 50 10

gr. gr. gr. gr. gr.

water fresh egg white 60% syrup powdered egg whites yopol powder

dehydrate for 24 hours

Greek Yogurt Panna Cotta Boil: 2 cups yogurt 1 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup sugar 1 vanilla bean add: 4 sheets gelatine

lavender tea AIR 250 gr. tea 50 gr. lavender syrup 5 gr. lecithin powder

Moscato - lavender wrap sheet 50 gr. lavender syrup 250 gr. water 250 gr. white wine 4 gr. agar 1.3 gr. gellan 50 gr. sugar 1 drop purple food color boil all ingredients add wine re-boil clarify.

Pomegrante fluid gel mix 50 gr. sugar 5 gr. agar boil with: 500 gr. pomegranate juice clarify.

Violet micro sponge combine in ISI and strain: Violet micro sponge combine 30 150 30 35 10

gr. gr. gr. gr. gr.

almond flour egg white azuleta sugar AP flour

2 canisters

Wildberry Pomegranate gelee for liguid red fruits base: combine 500 gr. red fruits 200 gr. sugar 50 gr. water

Azuleta meringue whip: 150 50 100 50 20

gr. gr. gr. gr. gr.

water fresh egg whites 60% syrup powdered egg whites azuleta

dehydrate for 24 hours.

Blackberry beet micro sponge 150 43 37 93 70 60 90

gr. gr. gr. gr. gr. gr. gr.

beets almond powder blackberry puree egg white egg yolk sugar AP flour

2 ISI cartridges

Blueberry Mojito sorbet 1/4 cup lime juice 1/4 cup water add and steep for 20 minutes: 150 gr. sugar 10 gr. fresh mint Add 1 pound fresh blueberry puree 2 tbl. white rum

Coconut Oil Malto powder mix in robot coupe 40 gr. mato powder 40 gr. coconut oil 20 gr. 10 x sugar

Raspberry Espuma 250 gr. raspberry puree 50 gr. sugar 1 gr. xanthana 2 each gelatine sheets


Simple idea for a twist on an old theme. Combining red velvet cake with cream cheese is a classic. I wanted to upgrade a plated dessert so that it would have addditional elements of a cream cheese gelato, mousse, the red velvet micro is propretary, and chocolate, in this form a pliable flex ganache, rounding out the plate, was some almond Streusel. very light and airy, tangy due to the acididy of the cheese, a nice year round dessert for any occasion.


Pliable Chocolate flexi ganache heat: 1.7 oz. water 1 oz. agar 4 oz. glucose add and re-boil: 32 oz. heavy cream add: 16 oz. chocolate .15 oz. salt 4 sheet gelatine disperse on acetate lined sheets or molds, allow to set in refrigerator.

Red velvet micro sponge combine: 200 30 35 70 20 40 100

gr. gr. gr. gr. gr. gr. gr.

egg white almond flour cocoa powder sugar AP flour yougurt or buttermilk Egg yolks

strain mixture, 2 ISI canisters

Streusel dough cream 1 pound butter 1 pound brown sugar add 3 yolks add 1 pound almond flour 1 pound AP flour rice the mixture bake at 300 F

Cream Cheese Gelato boil: 500 gr. milk 195 gr. glucose syrup 90 gr. timoline 2 vanilla bean 2 teaspoon salt add: 180 gr. sugar 6 gr. stabilizer 1 kilo cream cheese

Cream Cheese Mousse mix: 8 oz. Cream Cheese add 1/4 cup milk 1/4 cup lemon juice 1 tbl rum vanilla fold in 1/2 tbl lemon rind


Hydrocolloids are waters dispersable products producing gels or viscous liquids. There are two different types of hydrocolloids, thickeners and gelling agents. Hydrocolloids disperse in water. In a thickened product, binding of water moves separately and freely, resulting in a product with fluid properties. For gelled product, the matrix are bound to each other and form a three dimensional network, in which the water molecules are kept. The result are like a solid.

In addition to their primary purpose of thickening and/ or gelling, they often have secondary functions, such as emulsification, and also acting as a whipping agent.







GLOSSARY Dispersion for hydrocolloids they may not be able to be driven into solution readily, and a mechanical blending by grinding/mixing in addition to using a carrier agent such sugar, oil, or alcohol will aid in hydration.

Syneresis the process by which a liquid is expelled from a gel. Good example, is the leaching of liquid from pastry cream after being refrigerated for a a couple of days.

Emulsion where two mixtures of immiscible liquids are mixed to create a contiguous mass, as an example a fat and water.

Viscosity a measure of resistance of a fluid against flow, Water has low viscosity, chocolate, a higher viscosity.

Hydration The process by which a hydrocolloid binds to water and becomes fully dissolved. By first dispersing, then hydration.

Sheer - Thinning A liquid or gel where in stirring or agitation causes a decrease in The viscosity can be regained when the liquid or gel is left undisturbed.

Sequestrant forming a stable compound between two substances is modified by a sequestrant and helps in dispersion and emulsification.


In keeping in step with the Modernist Movement in Pastry, chefs are attempting to re-invent the ways things would be traditionally prepared or presented. Chefs such as Grant Achatz, Heston Blumenthal, and Ferran Adria among other noted Chefs, have forged the ground for this new frontier. One of the key qualities of Molecular Gastronomy is not just using something different in effect to derive the same result, but to expand and augment components in such ways as to come up with entirely new way of presentation, textures, and eating qualities. The notion “there may be a better way� is a good one to follow, it can open up new opportunities that you never dreamed possible before. I think back to the days before the Modernist movement, of how desserts were and even to a large part still presented till this day. The differences are clear, the only obstacles that remain for many Chefs, is they either have not had an opportunity or ability to explore these newer by-ways of cooking.

Circa 2007 some desserts employing more traditional forms of production.

Circa 2012, Modernist approach.


Some applications using hydrocolloids: Gel coverred Kappa bring to boil: 200 gr. fruit juice (50% fruit juice or water, 50% fruit puree) 4 gr. Kappa powder use immediately, for dipping frozen creams, fruits...

Basil flex gel boil: 300 gr. 60% syrup 100 gr. basil leaves 3 gr. agar run through vitamix or robot coupe to capture chloraphil and strain.

Soft peach rose gelee combine and boil: 230 gr. peach juice or puree 20 gr. rose syrup 1 gr. agar

Honey Chamolile Lavender Ice Cream Boil: 1 gallon milk 40 oz sugar Mix and temper with a part of the milk mixture:

Milk foam heat: 250 gr. milk 50 gr. sugar 1 gr (1 tsp) xanthana hydrate and add: 2 gelatine sheets

1 quart yolks 15 oz sugar

Raspberrry Croquant



1 quart heeavy cream

400 54 66 15

for two quarts of base steep: 1/4 oz lavender 1/8 oz chamomile tea 2 oz honey

Mango glass 400 54 66 15

gr. gr. gr. gr.

mango puree sugar isomalt glucose

heat to 176 F for 5 minutes allow to dehydrate for 24 hours.

gr. gr. gr. gr.

puree sugar isomalt glucose

allow to dehydrate for 24 hours

Raspberry Granita Heat: 8 oz. water 19 oz. syrup 2 oz. raspberry puree freeze and periodically with a fork break up and disperse ice crystals.



Blackcurrant Meringue Streusel dough

For syrup


200 gr. water 120 gr. sugar

1 pound butter 1 pound brown sugar


add: 3 yolks add: 1 pound almond flour 1 pound AP flour rice the mixture bake at 300 F

Yogurt Spheres Mix 200 gr. plain greek yougurt 90 gr. heavy cream 30 gr. sugar freeze spheres alginate bath 1500 gr. water 7.5 gr. sodium alginate immerse for two minutes

Basil flex gel boil: 300 gr. 60% syrup 100 gr. basil leaves 3 gr. agar agar run through vitamix or robot coupe to capture chloraphil

150 50 100 50 100

gr. water gr, whites gr. syrup gr. powdered whites gr blackcurrant puree

dehydrate for 24 hours

New Look and Exciting Couverture Additions

► Click

here to view tempering videos! │ 1.800.231.8154

CO CO. sala



929 F St NW Washington, DC 20004 (202) 347-4265

If there ever was a place that Willy Wonka would frequent after a long hard day envisioning the next greatest Chocolate bar, it would be Co Co. sala. Positioned in the Penn quarter of the district, the restaurant tantalizes you into not just experiencing chocolate made in just about everything inluding their cocktails and bar drinks, but menu items served as “flights” similar to tapas. smaller portions served in a very posh, intimate setting. Superbly prepared, with the highest of online reviews and accolades, Co Co. sala, has is a trendy vibrant destination spot that can bring in the after hour work and clubbing crowds for any special occasion, including a romantic hot spot for couples that are encouraged by there female significant others. Due to it’s modern chic attention to detail, in the evening the lounge takes on a very different vibe, than frequenting the establishment during the day. As with chocolate being a favorite of the ladies, it’s easy to surmise that the restaurant makes a fine destination for office workers, and a “ladies night out” relishing in a chocoholics haven. Chef Santosh Tiptur, formerly of Cunard, is the mastermind behind the operation, being responsible for the mainstay savory, chocolate confectionery,and of course a delectable variety of hugely popular desserts. Such items as the shrimp mac and cheese, are so popular, they dared not be taken off the menu. Other offerings included, are a beet salad, Artichoke tart, Strawberry Caprrese flatbread, crab cakes, blue cheese beef in addition to jerk Chicken sliders. Co Co. sala offers a pre - theater champagne dinner. But coming to restaurant and not saving room for dessert would be a travesty. There are 3, and 5 course dessert offerings into themselves, in addition to the a la carte offerings.

Bio on Co Co. sala The story of Co Co. Sala begins with a passion that sparked a fire to persue a dream of presenting the art of chocolate and pastry to Washington D with a chic, luxurious ambiance, It all started with the premise of Coffee, Chocolate, and Cocktails‌ three offerings which are satiating on their own, but when combined and interrelated they create a symbiotic menu which exemplifies indulgence, By assembling a passionate team with impeccable skills, Co Co. Sala, a chocolate boutique was born. Our goal is for our guests to be transported to a chocolate treasure-like oasis where they can experience and feel the passion we possess which is the premise of Co Co. Sala. Spotlight on Executive Chef Santosh Tipur:

Formerly of: Executive Pastry Chef Hotel Ritz Carlton San Juan Spa and Casino, Puerto Rico. Corporate Executive Pastry and Bakery Chef Cunard and Seabourn Cruise Lines, Miami, Florida

Inspiration: My Mother was my true inspiration, she is an amazing cook, I was inspired watching her prepare mouth watering dishes, and I always use to help her with small prep work and was officially appointed as her sous chef, and purchasing manager at a very young age.

Favorite dessert: Chocolate mousse, classic opera Cake Least appreciated dessert: Tembaleque (sweetened coconut and starch pudding) Favorite tool: Hand blender or also know as Immersion blender Specialty: Desserts, chocolates, confections, sugar and chocolate sculptures Favorite ingredient to work with: Chocolate and spices


Bakery and Confectionery technology at University of Agricultural Science Bangalore, India. Advance Pastry and Bakery training, Taj Group of Hotels India Pastry and Bakery Program: Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, NY International school of confectionery arts, Gaithersburg, Maryland Chocolate and Sugar art program with Chef Ewald Notter French Pastry School Advanced Chocolate bon bon class with Chef Sabastien Cannone Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona France Advanced Chocolate bon bon class with Chef Philippe Givre French Pastry School, Chicago, Illinois Advanced Sugar Show Piece technique class with Chef Stephan Leroux hours of operation: Mon – Friday. Dinner 4PM to Close Sat- 11 – 3 pm Brunch and Dinner 4 pm to close Sunday- 11 am to 3 pm Brunch Boutique Hours Mon – Saturday 11 am to 7 PM Sunday 11 am to 3 pm

Best part of the business: Exploring my hidden talent to create savory dishes featured at Co Co. Sala what do you wish you knew about the industry before getting into it: I have no regrets,I am glad I choose the right path in my life to pursue a career as chef and I am pleased with my accomplishments. If you weren’t a pastry chef, what would you have been doing: Air force Pilot Description of business: Co Co. Sala. Chocolate Lounge and Boutique location of business: 929 F street, NW Washington, DC, 20004 number of staff:45 square footage:5000 Pastry orientation:50 % sales mix in percentage (wholesale vs.. Retail) 3.5 million total 2.5 Restaurant







The theme behind this dessert, was to encompass a cheese, cherries, figs and some form of pistachio. Among the different types of cake that could have been used, I opted for a Financier in addition to a mirco sponge in this case to give the dessert a less organic, cleaner look and feel.The micro has embedded dried fruits added to the cups before microwaving, The semifreddo, could be molded in just about anything, in this case hemispheres, sprayed with cocoa. In some ways, the dessert is conventional, very autumnal, the addition of the banana sorbet could easily have been exchanged with for example a brown butter ice cream. Have fun dipping into your repore, and switching up this mashup.

Goats Cheese Semifreddo whip 4 egg yolks cook to 121C 30 gr. water 100 gr.sugar add 1 sheet gelatine add: 200 gr. goats cheese whip: 4 egg whites and fold in

Browned butter micro sponge 150 43 40 93 70 60 90

gr. gr. gr. gr. gr. gr. gr.

banana puree almond flour browned butter egg white egg yolks sugar AP flour

fold in to finished cups a mixture of hydrated sundried cranraisins and sun dried blueberies

Candied Walnuts whip 16 oz. egg whites 4 oz. sugar 1 oz. salt add: 5 oz. walnuts mid way through the baking separate and toss walnut mixture and fold in: 2 oz. butter 275 F convection oven

Chocolate fluid gel boil : 8 oz. heavy cream 3 oz. butter 5 oz. sugar 5 oz. brown sugar 4.5 oz cocoa powder 1.5 gr agar mix in vitamix with a enouigh corn syrup for desired consistency.

Cherry kappa fruits Boil: 100 gr. cherry puree 4 gr. kappa Immerse fruit immediately in mixture.

Pistachio financier combine: 6 oz. almond flour 12 oz. 10 x 4 oz. AP flour 2 oz. pistachio paste 9 oz. egg whites a couple of drops of green food color brown and strain add to above 10 oz. butter allow to hydrate in refrigerator for a few hours. bake at 275 F convection

Streusel dough cream 1 pound butter 1 pound brown sugar add 3 yolks add 1 pound almond flour 1 pound AP flour rice the mixture bake at 300 F

Raspberrry Croquant boil: 400 54 66 15

gr. gr. gr. gr.

puree sugar isomalt glucose

dehydrate for 24 hours.


I was looking to combine the elements of Rose, Violet, Raspberry, and Peach with this dessert. Of the results, the final color spectrum of everything coming together was amazing, just an cascading explosion of contrasts and vibrancy. The Greek yogurt Panna Cotta Kappa glazed rounds are at the centerpiece, though, it just seems like everything else just nicely works around them. Variants could include, spinning off the gelee as a tropical, or glazing the Yogurt in an alternate such as a Acai blueberry or Pomegranate, get creative.


Greek Yogurt Panna Cotta 2 cups yogurt 1 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup sugar 1 vanilla bean 4 sheets gelatine

Gel covered Kappa bring to boil: 200 gr. fruit juice (50% fruit juice or water, 50% fruit puree) 4 gr. Kappa powder use immediately, for dipping frozen creams, fruits....

Raspberry Croquant boil: 400 54 66 15

gr. gr. gr. gr.

puree sugar isomalt glucose

dehydrate for 24 hours.

Basil flex gel boil: 300 gr. 60% syrup 100 gr. basil leaves 3 gr. agar agar run through vitamix or robot coupe to capture chloraphil and strain.

Raspberry Espuma 250 gr. raspberry puree 50 gr. sugar 1 gr. xanthana 2 each gelatine sheets 2 ISI canisters

Raspberry lyo Raspberry Rock Boil: 250 gr. sugar 100 gr. water add: 50 gr. fizzy 1 grated lime 10 gr.powdered lyo raspberry cook to 284F /140C

Rose-Yopol micro sponge 300 60 60 70 20 40

gr. gr. gr. gr. gr. gr.

egg white almond flour yopol sugar AP flour Rose syrup

Soft peach rose gelee combine and boil: 230 gr. peach juice or puree 20 gr. rose syrup 1 gr. agar

Streusel dough cream 1 pound butter 1 pound brown sugar add 3 yolks add 1 pound almond flour 1 pound AP flour rice the mixture bake at 300 F

Violet micro sponge combine 30 150 30 35 10

gr. gr. gr. gr. gr.

almond flour egg white azuleta sugar AP flour

Yopol meringue chips whip 150 gr. 50 gr. 100 gr. 50 gr. 10 gr.

water fresh egg white 60% syrup powdered egg whites yopol powder



A few years ago, I made a stacked dessert, with some of the same components of what went into this Dulce de leche, Gingerbread, and Pumpkin cake. In this version, I added a caramel film wrap, and a version of a simplified caramelized white chocolate flexi ganache, without the fuss of caramelizing white chocolate. Very Christmas is what is brought to mind, and most appropriate for that time of the year.

Gingerbread cake Mix: 8 oz. dark brown sugar 8 oz. sugar 6 oz. vegetable oil Add: 3 eggs Blend drys and add: 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1 pound flour 1 1/2 teaspoon BP 2 teaspoon ginger 1/4 teaspoon cloves 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg pinch cardamon Add: 8 oz. stout beer 8 oz. dark molasses bake at 300 F for about 25-20 minutes.

Honey Pumpkin micro sponge 93 gr. egg whites 150 gr. pumpkin puree 43 gr. walnut flour 30 gr. honey cloves cinnamon nutmeg 90 gr. AP flour 60 gr. sugar salt pinch 130 gr. egg yolks

Caramel film Carmelize: 455 100 3 30 55

gr. gr. gr. gr. gr.

sugar water lemon juice glucose butter

caramel sheet bloom 2 sheet gelatine 20 gr. water boil: 1 gr. agar 75 gr. water add: 125 gr caramel

Pseudo Carmelized White Chocolate flexi ganache boil: 600 gr. heavy cream 100 gr. invert sugar 40 gr. glucose pinch salt 4 gr agar add: 6 sheet gelatine 300 gr. white chocolate 50 gr. dulce de leche

Carmelized Apple heat to boil: 4 apples 160 gr. puree 100 gr. sugar 40 gr. apple juice 5 gr. gellan

lace tuile Mix with paddle: 24 oz. butter 24 oz. 10 x sugar 48 oz. corn syrup 2 pounds flour AP spread thinly on Silpat mixture will become bubbly bake at 275 F until golden

Dulce de leche ice cream Mix and Paco jet: 1 1/2 cup cream 3/4 cup dulce de leche vanilla bean

Dulce de leche powder combine and pulverize in Robot coupe: 45 gr dulce de leche 40 gr. malto powder


The impression I was looking for with this dessert was to create two veils, in one instance, a jellied raspberry creme brulee, and on the other, a blackberry wrap sheet. There are interspersed demi spheres of Blackberry Panna Cotta a splash of white Chocolate Namelaka, and Pistachio micro to round out the dessert.


Blackberry Panna Cotta 2 cups heavy cream 1/3 cup sugar 2 1/3 cup blackberry puree 3 sheet gelatine

Blackberry sheet wrap boil: 500 gr. blackberry puree 120 gr. sugar 5 gr. agar Add: 5 gr. gelatine sheet

Jellified Raspberry creme brulee blend: 4 oz. corn syrup 40 oz. pastry cream boil and add to above: 16 oz. raspberry puree 2 gr. agar 1 gr. gellan soften, liquify and add: 12 sheet gelatine

Pistachio Micro Sponge cake combine: 60 45 80 45 25

gr. gr. gr. gr. gr.

pistachio paste egg whites yolks sugar ap flour

strain 2 ISI canisters microwave for about 45 seconds

White chocolate Namelaka boil: 200 gr. milk 340 gr. white chocolate 10 gr. glucose add: 6 ea gelatine sheet 400 gr. heavy cream

White chocolate powder mix in Robot coupe: 80 gr. malto 140 gr. white chocolate


Everyone probably has their own version of this dessert, the catch is to make it exceedingly attractive in as little time as possible, trimming the components down to five. Flourless chocolate cake - decadence for triple chocolate mousse melt: 2 pounds 58% chocolate whip 11 whole eggs 6 1/4 oz. sugar whip and fold into egg base 16 oz whip cream fold in chocolate that has been lightened. Chocolate mousses are made by whipping 3 parts of heavy cream lightly whipped, to one part, chocolate, the same recipe applies for white, milk, and dark chocolates. 1 quart heavy cream 16 oz. chocolate Procedure: melt chocolate lightly whip cream, to 1/3 of the whipped cream whisk in chocolate, add to remainder of the 2/3 whip cream, do not over whip, or you will break the mousse!

As a timesaver, commercially available mirror white and dark glazes were used, some sources: Valhrona Felchlin DGF

PLATE COMPOSITION The scope of this topic of discussion can be vast. As important as the dessert itself is in terms of flavor profile, Ingredients used, mode of assembly, presentation matters. Things have come a long way over the years in terms of presentation, with several new ingredients and techniques forging new methods of actually putting a dessert together and making it, not only attractive, but encouraging patrons to want to purchase at eye shot. The primary areas we are going to focus on, are symmetry of form, balance, and form as function. In addition to plate presentation. We will look at different forms of categorized composition that you probably already know or have done, but this just acts as a ready reference. Compositional techniques are numerous achieving a sense of unity is imperative. Depending on the goals of the chef, plating technique should have an aesthetically pleasing to the eye quality, with elements working together in unison. A balanced compositional arrangement, verses a detached unitized effect will create more interest. The first presentation is what I call the stack:

With adaptations from individualized pastry, a succession of layers can be created from fruits, biscuit, jelee, fruit glass, or tuiles, ordered structured presentation.


Flooding the plate concentrically with band of cremueux, coulis, mousse, and or fruits also is an effective way to capture a presentation. This acts as a canvas to literally any type of presentation, but keeping a circular form would work best in this instance.

Another popular display is what I call the cascade, this is an in line bank of stacked products, from gels, to cake, fruits, meringue, croquant, powders, a few years ago this type of presentation would not have been envisioned, but today with a more modernist approach, you can splash a plate with an unordered chaos,�organized randomness� band and manage to have it coming off as highly attractive.

Line and shape Brushing or combing the plate with anything from a fluid gel, coulis, even a curd, can have a dramatic effect. You can easily make your own plastic combs, or they can be purchased.

RULE OF ODDS The rule of odds is used in many art disciplines, in particular painting, photography and advertising. It states that objects displayed in odd numbers seem to bring unity to the composition. The logic behind this rule is always one item that looks by the surrounding ones, which looks harmonious. Even numbers bring symmetry in the composition, appearing less natural. When composing a plate, it is best to use a succession of three, or five components, verses four or six.

Tadpoles can offer a dramatic plate backdrop extending from one point to another, flooding a plate with a thickened sauce cream, or coulis. This is where a flex gel really comes in handy due to it’s ability to hold it’s structure and stand up to being swiped with a spoon. They create rhythm, and are an offset to the geometry of the composition.

Centering everything around a circumference, a center of interest offers a focus to the plate, and creates order. By switching up color, texture and value, we can create elements of design that form depth and interest.

Carefully consider your target audience when creating your next dessert, keeping in mind your demographics of who you are Servicing and the sophistication level of your patrons. Form as function also takes a seat to designing desserts, carefully take a look at the venue you are serving from, and not just how many covers are being served but the staffing concerns should also be taken into account.

Serpents are another way to create movement and flow to a plated presentation. They can be done in a multitude of different ways, a piped cremeux, cut or molded flex ganache, banked along side by amenities such as meringues, fruits, espumas, glass, and decorated with florals all completeing an eye catching presentation.


Depending on the temperature of the shop you are working in, it is not a crime to enrobe handcrafted chocolates with pate a glacer, if temps don’t allow for using and tempering couverture.

If you find yourself shorthanded in the kitchen, and the resources are available it’s far better to attempt to put in a reacquisition with a temp agency for extra help, rather than attempting to do everything yourself.Take charge of the situation, especially around the holidays, even if you have to put in an advertisement yourself.. As a timesaver in emergencies, if you need to make a quick ganache for a filling or for truffles, use the direct inject method by slightly taking the chill of the cream, and whisking in the warmed chocolate directly, you will not have keeping qualities with this ganache, but if it’s going out to service and going to be consumed in a day, it doesn’t matter. reducing the viscosity of liquid couverture for hand dipping chocolates can be effective, by thinning with liquid cocoa butter. If possible, always try to get an order in, with your purveyors earlier than later, if they are short, and you are made prevey to it, this gives an adequate amount of time to get in the item from an alternate purveyor.

Lemon Chibaust 1 pound lemon curd Hydrate and liquefy: 5 sheet gelatine Whip to medium peaks: 13.5 oz. heavy cream Boil to 121 F. 2.3 oz. sugar 1 oz. water Lightly develop meringue and Pour on: 2 oz. whites 1/4 oz. sugar Procedure: Soften the curd and temper lightly by heating a percentage, add the liquefied gelatine sheets. and fold in whipped cream, develop meringue and fold in last.


Cherry Gelee

Olive Oil Sponge


Whip to ribbon:

9 oz. cherry puree 1 1/2 oz. sugar

300 gr. whole eggs 550 gr. sugar

Soften, heat and add:

Add 375 gr. 500 gr. 125 gr. 20 gr.

3 sheet gelatine Procedure: Layer Olive Oil sponge, skim coat of Lemon Chibaust cream, and anchor Cherry gelee. Recover with remaining Chibaust, freeze assembly. cut cubes, and spray with yellow cocoa color. Finish by applying four plaques of colored white chocolate or tinted pate a glace, to surrounds.

milk AP flour almond flour baking powder

Add 300 gr. olive oil lemon rind ground cinnamon Bake at 300 F 1/2 sheet

Wrap sheets for Exotica Raspberry wrap sheet Soften: 2 sheet gelatine boil: 1 gr agar 75 gr water 125 gr. raspberry puree orange wrap sheet Soften: 2 sheet gelatine Boil: 1 gr agar 75 gr water 125 orange curd 1 drop orange food color red spray lime wrap sheet Soften 2 sheet gealtine Boil: 1 gr agar 75 gr water 125 lime juice 50 gr. sugar 1 drop green food color 2 drop yellow food color

EXOTICA 18 Mango Passion Panna Cotta for Exotica Heat: 4.5 oz passion puree 4.5 oz mango puree 50 ml heavy cream 145 ml milk 52 gr. sugar 1 vanilla bean Soften and add: 4 sheets gelatine

Mixed exotic fruits mousse Soften: 5 sheet gelatine Mix: 137 gr. mixed exotic puree 17 gr. sugar as per italian meringue heat sugar to 121 F. and pour on egg whites: 95 gr. egg whites 125 gr. sugar Fold in: 220 gr. heavy cream

Coconut Dacquoise for one sheet dry blend: 11 11 4 18

oz. oz. oz. oz.

alond flour angel flake coconut AP flour 10 x sugar

whip 22 oz. egg whites 11.5 oz. sugar Fold in dry blended ingredients, Bake at 300 F. until golden about 20 minutes

Indications for Exotica: prepare wraps, refrigerate, and trim unique shapes and place within molds. prepare Panna Cotta, refrigerate, and cut sizes to match molds being used. Bake Coconut Dacquoise. Prepare mixed fruit mousse and fill molds leaving space for Panna Cotta and finally topping off with baked cut rounds of Coconut Dacquoise. Freeze domes, unmold and glaze with hot or cold neutral glaze.


Streusel dough Mix: 1 pound butter 1 pound brown sugar add: 3 egg yolks add: 1 pound almond flour 1 pound all purpose flour rice the mixture and bake until golden 275 F. For base mix and melt: 4 oz. butter 8 oz dark choclate combine with: 17 oz, praline paste add 10 oz streusel


Royal feuilletine mixture Mix: 8 oz. feuilletine 10 oz. praline paste 6 oz. white chocolate 1/4 recipe yields 7 ea nonettes

Milky Chocolate Mousse Boil: 16 oz. heavy cream add: 36 oz. milk chocolate 8 sheets gelatine cool and add: 28 oz heavy cream

Procedure: line molds with acetate, fill with crunchy Praline strusel mixture, prepare feuilletine mixture, and layer. Prepare Milky mousse, deposit into molds and freeze, unmold and marble glaze with mirror white and dark chocolate glazes.

White chocolate glazing Bring to Boil: 500 gr. heavy cream 160 gr. glucose Add: 600 gr. white chocolate 700 gr. Pate a glace’ Add: 6 softened gelatine sheets and enough titanium dioxide to tint glaze white.

Mirror dark Chocolate Glazing Boil: 1 quart heavy cream 12 oz. butter 19 oz. granulated sugar 19 oz. brown sugar Add upon boiling:: 18 oz. cocoa powder 25 sheets of softened gelatine smooth in Robot coupe and add: 32 oz light corn syrup to finish can be reheated by microwaving.


Hazelnut Crispy Wafer Melt: 10 oz. gianduja 3.5 oz. hazelnut paste 6.5 oz. rice crispy

Rose Hibiscus bavarain Mix: 1 pound pastry cream 2 oz rose syrup 1 oz. hibiscus syrup Soften and add: 6 each gelatine sheet Fold in: 9 oz. heavy cream


Raspberry Compote Mix: 36 oz. raspberry puree 6 oz granulated sugar Soften and add: 12 sheets gelatine 2 oz lemon juice refrigerate on acetate cut to size of molds.

Gel covered Kappa bring to boil:

Crunchy Pufffed Rice base 100 gr. milk chocolate 200 gr. puffed rice 230 gr. hazelnut praline paste

Coconut Dacquoise for one sheet

200 gr. fruit juice (50% fruit juice or water, 50% fruit puree) 4 gr. Kappa powder use immediately, for dipping frozen creams, fruits....

dry blend: 11 11 4 18

oz. oz. oz. oz.

alond flour angel flake coconut AP flour 10 x sugar

whip 22 oz. egg whites 11.5 oz. sugar Fold in dry blended ingredients, Bake at 300 F. until golden about 20 minutes

Procedure: assemble crunchy rice base mixture an mold. make the Raspberry Compote, refrigerate on acetate and set aside. Make Rose - hibiscus bavarian, and deposit into molds line in a crushed ice bath, to speed chilling. deposit a round of cut Raspberry compote in center of bavarian, and position a round of coconut Dacquoise in centerr of mold. freeze molds and sandwich together. Insert a skeur into one side of the round and glaze with Kappa. Anchor rounds on top of Rice rounds with Chocolate.


Dessert Esoteric  

Introducing a truly interactive Digital ezine for the Pastry professional. ​ Dessert Esoteric is a fully-responsive, mobile app ezine fo...

Dessert Esoteric  

Introducing a truly interactive Digital ezine for the Pastry professional. ​ Dessert Esoteric is a fully-responsive, mobile app ezine fo...