HOW WOKE WOKE IS WOOL? VEGANS CHOOSE NOT TO USE ANY ANIMAL PRODUCTS IN THEIR DIET, WARDROBE AND LIFESTYLE, BUT WHEN SHEEP PROVIDE WOOL, A TEXTILE THAT IS SUSTAINABLE AND LONG-LASTING, SHOULD VEGANS MAKE AN EXCEPTION? wo rd s B ROOK E YAR S I N S KY illu stra ti o n AS C HE R T H O M A S
AN INCREASED CONCERN for climate change and the fight for animal rights has driven a rise in the adoption of a plant-based diet and animal-product-free lifestyle. As of now, there are as many as 6.5 million self-identifying vegans in the U.S. Although vegans refrain from all animal products, is there any wiggle room surrounding sustainable animal agriculture? Sheep produce one of the most sustainable fibers for fashion, wool. Wool has exceptional qualities as a textile, but there are significant concerns surrounding sheep treatment and the effects on the environment. Investigating the facts behind the debate reveals that it may be time to rethink the vegan philosophy when it comes to pursuing the most sustainable, long-lasting, and adaptable fabric for clothing. Humans and sheep have been working together since 10,000 BC, sheep getting their hair cut, and humans harvesting their wool for clothing. Wool has been used as a textile for millennia because it is lightweight, breathable, flame-resistant, durable, and insulating, qualities designating wool as an exceptionally wearable fiber. Synthetic fabrics, a material found in most apparel, pollute the environment during production and is not biodegradable; the production process for polyester, for instance, released 1.5 trillion pounds of greenhouse gases in 2015. Even cotton, a natural fiber, requires an alarming amount of water to manufacture; it takes 5,300 gallons of water to produce only one pair of pants and a t-shirt. Wool, therefore, is one of the most sustainable textiles because it is biodegradable, natural, and renewable, which checks all the boxes for most environmental activists. Frankie Madison, a twenty-one-year-old strict vegan and animal rights activist, is opposed to the wool industry. Madison believes the negative aspects of sheep treatment outweigh any positive aspects of wool textiles, “Sheep shearing is inhumane and unnecessary. It causes pain and breeds animals just to use them for profit.” She further maintains that there are no exceptions to veganism, as “Veganism is a moral code.” Upholding this ideology in her own life, she limits her purchases and discloses, “I only purchase clothing out of necessity from secondhand stores. I suppose I typically wear cotton and denim, but most of my clothes are from middle and high school and are hand me downs.” Madison’s resistance towards the sheep industry is steady as she has seen firsthand how poorly animals are treated on large-scale farms and doesn’t believe animals should be in captivity for this purpose. But for people that frequently buy clothing, is it possible to purchase wool ethically and still advocate for animal rights?
When buying wool products, it can sometimes be unclear where the material originates. If a company is not transparent in its sourcing practices, it is almost impossible to know if the wool was ethically sourced. Most farms in America are factory farms, which breed animals at an alarming rate and keep them in small spaces. These farm animals, including sheep, also produce methane, a gas that is detrimental to the atmosphere and a significant cause of climate change. While there can be concerns with large-scale farming, there are many local small-scale farms that ethically produce wool. A local Pennsylvania farmer, Margie Smith, raises thirteen Blue-faced Leicester sheep and is adamant that the sheep on her farm are loved and treated exceptionally. “All animals in my life have been treated with respect. Our sheep are covered with sheep sheets to protect and keep their fleeces clean,” adding, “they are penned to a pen because sheep are herd animals and do better in pairs than singly, they are out during the days and inside at night and bad weather.” On local farms like Smith’s, sheep are treated almost as pets and are sheared once a year. She hires a professional shearer to shear her sheep, as many farms do, to ensure that the sheep’s wool is expertly cut and without any harm to the animal. Without shearing, animals are more prone to disease and health problems. Smith shares that “shearing keeps the sheep fleece from matting and getting too much vegetative matter in it, which causes skin issues and houses lice and other undesirables.” Sheep have grown dependent on shearing; it prevents infection and improves the animal’s ability to control their body temperature. Small scale farmers are known to treat their sheep ethically, but how can consumers understand where their wool clothing originates? When seeking out ethical wool, brands have certifications to confirm their humane standards. Some certifications to look for are the Responsible Wool Standard, ZQ Merino Standard, and Soil Association Organic Standards. Buying from brands with transparent supply chains can ensure ethical production, so it is essential to research clothing companies and their sourcing practices when making wool purchases. Some brands with ethical and transparent wool products are Everlane, Ally Bee, People Tree, and Babaå. It’s time for consumers to start valuing their clothing again and invest in longer-lasting garments. With the right resources, consumers can buy ethically sourced wool products but remember that unlike sheep, wool is not a black or white issue.
D&M MAGAZINE 87