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Finding Solutions  for  Oily  and  Acneic  Skin     Oily  and  acneic  skin  often  requires  a  deeper  cleanse  to  clear  out  debris  and   compactions  in  the  follicles.    While  certain  ingredients  can  make  quite  a  difference,   they’re  no  comparison  to  the  professional,  deep  cleansing  treatments  available  in   the  treatment  room.     Electrical  modalities  offer  a  stronger,  more  precise  professional  treatment  for   maintaining  certain  skin  conditions.    With  many  options  available,  skin  therapists   can  use  their  knowledge  of  oily  and  acneic  skin  to  choose  the  best  modality  for  the   client.    Options  for  electrical  modalities  for  oily  and  acneic  skin  include  Steam,   Desincrustation  by  means  of  Galvanic  Current  and  Direct  High  Frequency.       Steam   Steamers  not  only  feel  good  for  the  client,  they  soften  the  skin  by  moistening  it  and   relaxing  the  tissues,  allowing  debris,  sebum  and  compactions  to  release  more  easily   prior  to  manual  extractions.    They  also  stimulate  circulation,  oxygenate  the  skin,   help  clear  the  sinuses  and  reduce  nasal  congestion.    In  addition,  they  keep  the  skin   and  product  moist  while  performing  the  cleansing  step  of  the  facial  and  using  other   electrical  treatments,  such  as  Vacuum  Suction.         Steamers  send  vapor  through  a  spout  that  is  directed  at  the  client.    While  it  appears   to  be  a  gentle  and  simple  machine,  keep  the  following  in  mind  when  operating  the   device:     • Use  caution  when  treating  clients  with  high  grades  of  acne,  as  it  is  best  to   avoid  heat  on  clients  with  sensitive  or  sensitized  skin.   • Do  not  use  steam  longer  than  20  minutes;  7-­‐10  minutes  is  recommended.   • Make  sure  the  skin  is  cleansed  or  being  cleansed.   • Steam  should  sit  at  least  one  foot  away  from  the  client’s  face.     • Make  sure  the  water  is  always  fresh  for  each  client.   • NEVER  allow  hot  water  to  drip  from  the  spout;  this  can  burn  you  or  the   client.   • Always  use  filtered  water;  hard  tap  water  can  cause  damage  to  the  steamer.       • Never  allow  the  water  to  evaporate,  because  the  glass  container  in  which  it   sits  could  break.         Note:  Ozone  used  to  be  added  to  steam  for  its  drying  properties  on  acne.  Ozone  was   achieved  by  including  a  UV  bulb  in  the  neck  of  the  steamer.    As  the  water  vapor   passed  over  the  bulb,  the  UV  light  would  react  with  the  oxygen  naturally  present,   and  convert  it  to  ozone  gas.    This  ozone  gas  “split”  the  water  (H2O)  molecule's   oxygen  portion  to  ozone  (O3)  and  the  steam  appeared  thicker  and  heavier.     However,  ozone  is  now  considered  to  be  a  respiratory  irritant  and  its  use  is   not  recommended.    


Steam is  more  effective  for  oily  and  acneic  skin  when  used  in  conjunction  with  a   Desincrustation  solution.    A  Desincrustation  solution  is  an  alkaline  fluid  that  helps   soften  impactions  in  the  follicle.    When  applied  to  the  skin  with  steam,  the  solution   can  be  used  with  Galvanic  current.         Galvanic  Current:  Desincrustation   Galvanic  Current  is  a  low  level,  continuous  current  that  flows  in  one  direction.    It  has   a  low  voltage  and  medium  amperage.    This  makes  it  a  direct  current  with  dual   polarity  of  a  positive  or  negative  charge.  Galvanic  Desincrustation  is  a  process  that   softens  and  emulsifies  sebum  and  compactions  in  the  follicle.    Desincrustation   solutions  have  an  alkaline  pH  and  are  negatively  charged,  so  they  need  the  active   Galvanic  electrode  to  be  negatively  charged.    The  client  holds  the  positive  electrode   and  the  negative  electrode  operates  as  the  working  electrode.         The  Desincrustation  solution  is  applied  to  both  the  skin  and  the  gauze,  cotton  or  a   sponge  over  the  active  electrode  and  moved  around  the  effected  area.    The  alkaline   solution  attracts  to  the  positive  electrode  in  the  client’s  hand  and  the  negative  ions   in  the  solution  are  repelled  by  the  negative  electrode,  causing  an  alkaline  reaction  in   the  skin.    This  works  on  the  theory  that  like  poles  repel  and  opposite  poles  attract.     The  Desincrustation  solution,  combined  with  the  action  of  the  active  negative   electrode,  results  in  the  saponification  of  sebum.    The  alkali  and  sebum  react  to  form   Sodium  Hydroxide;  this  process  is  a  chemical  reaction  by  which  the  fatty  stearic   acids  in  sebum  react  with  the  alkali  to  form  soap,  therefore  softening  the  sebum  for   easier  extractions.           Galvanic  Desincrustation  has  the  following  effects  and  benefits:     • An  alkaline  reaction.   • Softens  the  tissues.   • Dilates  follicles.   • Increases  blood  and  lymph  circulation   • Increases  sensitivity.   • Softens  compacted  sebum  and  keratin  within  the  follicle.   • Helps  control  oil  production.     As  a  result  of  the  Desincrustation  process,  Hydrochloric  Acid  is  produced  under  the   inactive  electrode.    Therefore,  the  electrode  must  always  be  covered  with  a  sponge   or  gauze  for  protection.     Direct  High  Frequency   Whereas  Desincrustation  is  a  pre-­‐extraction  procedure,  Direct  High  Frequency  has  a   germicidal  effect  and  is  used  post-­‐extraction.  Direct  High  Frequency  is  most  efficient   when  treating  acne-­‐type  lesions  for  oily  skins  with  overall  congestion.      


High Frequency  uses  an  alternating  radio  current  called  the  “Tesla  Current.”    The   glass  electrodes  fill  with  either  argon  or  neon  gas.    If  the  electrode  fills  with  argon   gas,  it  produces  the  familiar  violet  ray.  If  it  fills  with  neon  gas,  it  produces  an   orange/red  ray.    Both  gases  have  similar  effects,  but  argon  is  good  for  acneic  skin   conditions  and  neon  is  used  on  oily  skins  or  to  create  warmth  in  a  localized  area  for   better  product  penetration.     The  Tesla  Current  is  conducted  to  the  gas  where  it  ignites.    The  gas  is  inert  in  a   vacuum,  so  it  is  quite  safe  and  stable.    Once  the  gas  ignites,  light  energy  is  given  off,   which  forms  Ozone  around  the  glass  electrode.    When  the  oxygen,  which  is  naturally   present  in  the  air  around  the  electrode,  is  electrified,  it  forms  ozone.    The  more   oxygen  that  surrounds  the  electrode,  the  more  ozone  forms,  thus  creating  a  greater   effect.    Therefore,  when  the  electrode  is  lifted  away  from  the  skin  surface  and  more   oxygen  surrounds  it,  a  more  intense  drying  and  healing  action  occurs.    This  method,   which  uses  the  argon  gas  electrode,  is  called  “sparking.”    We  achieve  a  “spark  gap”   by  applying  layers  of  dry,  cotton  gauze  over  the  skin,  thus  creating  a  narrow  space   between  the  skin  and  the  electrode  for  ozone  to  form.    Never  create  a  gap  of  more   than  ¼”,  as  tissue  destruction  can  occur  and  the  skin  will  heal,  leaving  brownish   marks.     Electricity  for  Oily  and  Acneic  Skin   Electrical  modalities  for  oily  and  acneic  skin  are  a  great  way  to  not  only  enhance  the   skin  treatment  but  to  really  get  into  the  skin  more  deeply  than  what  is  possible  just   manually.  Clients  will  appreciate  feeling  thoroughly  cleansed,  and  each  of  you  will   notice  more  rapid  results  that  will  encourage  continued  skin  health  through   professional  treatments.              

Finding Solutions for Oily and Acneic Skin  

Finding Solutions for Oily and Acneic Skin

Finding Solutions for Oily and Acneic Skin  

Finding Solutions for Oily and Acneic Skin

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