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2012 Board Buyers Guide

Tri-County Shapers Symposium DEEPZINE.COM

Surfers in Service September/October 2012 • Volume 7 / No. 5

Chris Owen Photo Essay FREE

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September/October 2012 Volume 7, No. 5

COVER SHOT Dane Reynolds enjoying a late season winter swell at Rincon. BY BILL TOVER


Michael Kew Nicole de Leon L. Paul Mann Paley Martin Kara Petersen David Pu’u Ryan A. Smith Shawn Tracht




Andres Nuño EDITOR:



Lea Boyd Craig Comen Derek Dodds Glenn Dubock Chuck Graham Dan Hamlin

Chris Burkard Joli Dachi Brandon DiPierri Derek Dodds Glenn Dubock Willi Edwards John Foronda Free Burma Rangers Eric Friedricey Chuck Graham Lori Graham Paul Greene

Jeff Johnson Michael Kew Brent Lieberman Jason Lesh L. Paul Mann Jim Martin Chris Owen Jeff Pfost Seth de Roulet Andrew Schoener Ryan A. Smith Bill Tover Shawn Tracht © ASP/ Rowland SUPPORTING STAFF:

Lea Boyd Peter Dugré Kris Whittenton

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012



Gary L. Dobbins


Owned and Operated by RMG Ventures, LLC Carpinteria, CA 93013 Tel: 805.684.4428 WWW.DEEPZINE.COM

Letter from the Editor Who’s on Board News




Tidelines Northern Exposure Comen Sense Board Trachting Ladies Room View from the Hill Dropping In On: Lucky Llama Surf Shop Down Low Product Reviews What's Your Komunity Project?



Green Room Final Frames

12 12 14 16 18 19 45 46 48 49 58 59 64 66 68/70


20 12 AN NU AL

By Glenn Dubock, Shawn Tracht and Michael Kew For the third consecutive year, DEEP interviews three craftsmen from each of the tri-counties (Ventura, Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo). This year, Robert Weiner of Robert’s Surfboards, Gregg Tally of Owl Surfboards and PJ Wahl of Wahl Surfboards share their stories with us. When it comes to boards, there is no better feeling then surfing on something that was handcrafted for you.


Story by Chuck Graham Eleven years ago photographer Chris Owen was attending Brooks Institute of Photography. At that point, photography for Owen was merely a dream job. Check out his images.



Story and Photos by Shawn Tracht What makes a hero in the surfing community? In a sport laden with so many great surfers, the question of becoming a hero can often become overshadowed by the pursuit of contest wins and sponsorship stickers stuck to one’s board. Author Shawn Tracht, says, “a surfing hero is one who is not only a top surfer, like the Central Coast’s Tom Maloney (teacher), Steve Weir (firefighter), and Cameron Rigby (police officer), but a surfing hero is also a hero out of the water: changing lives, protecting lives, and saving lives."


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012




TRAVEL: MAURITIUS Story and Photos by Michael Kew Michael Kew takes you on another surf trip. This time he heads to Mauritius. The waves were in fact chest-high and fairly consistent with the high tide offering a decent cushion over the sharp coral reef. Surfing backside, the punchy lefts were challenging, also quite fun, and "it was sublime to surf a foreign wave alone at the edge of the Indian Ocean, wide open, with only the Kerguelen Islands between me and Antarctica," Kew reports.

The fourth annual BOARD BUYERS GUIDE features the latest shapes and designs from board builders along the Central and South coasts. DEEP is showcasing their boards giving our readership the opportunity to find the right board for you. There's much to choose from, so flip through the pages and take a gander at our largers Board Buyer's Guide yet. Enjoy. - C.G.






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friend recently told me we were experiencing an extended moment. He was right.  Rincon was firing. It wasn’t crowded, but it was clean, head high, a localized low interval swell that focused on southern Santa Barbara County. The winter-like swell lasted for several days; the middle of June felt like January. After surfing for five hours in one day, that “good soreness” was a welcomed reminder of lots of waves ridden, a nice surprise when I thought those summer doldrums were settling in. Of course, you can’t experience an extended moment unless you have a board you really enjoy riding. It’s no fun surfing good waves on a board you don’t like. So take a good hard look at the lineup of surfboards inside the pages of our annual Board Buyers Guide. There are plenty of good boards to choose from for all skill levels, and hopefully by the time that first real winter swell arrives, the extended moments will start to mount. Enjoy.



Chuck Graham


WHO’S ON BOARD? Paul Greene Photographer

Chris Owen Photographer

Photography is Chris Owen's Zen, and Santa Barbara is his playground. Owen moved here 11 years ago from New Mexico and felt like, "I had come home even though this was a place I’d never been to. I live and work as a photographer and digital re-toucher and look forward to many more years with a camera in my hand and sand in my toes."

Shawn Tracht


Columnist / Photographer


Shawn Tracht is a father, teacher, surfer, and journalist who is full of positive life and excitement. He enjoys helping others push their passions forward, striving to accomplish their goals. As a writer, his focus is breaking down the complex intricacies of our sport in an effort to bridge a gap between the industry and the surfers in the water.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

Paul Greene is a 16-year-old photographer born and raised in Santa Barbara. His love for the ocean started at age 10 when he caught his first wave at Rincon. Hundreds of sessions later and so many amazing moments watched, he soon realized that he wanted to share what he had been experiencing. A gift of a camera helped him reach that goal. “It was tough in the beginning, but after spending hours and hours shooting, I soon started to progress. Love and dedication is also keeping me attached to my camera and the sea,” said Greene.

Glenn Dubock


Glenn Dubock has been chasing waves and the next photo for over 40 years. His motto is “ if it moves, I shoot it,” which is to say his forte is action sports photography, especially if it is done on salt water. When not roaming the globe with camera in hand, Glenn can be found riding waves with any size of surf craft from his Greenough surf mat to his Morey Tri-Sect stand up paddleboard.

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wo Santa Barbara locals cleaned house at the Nike U.S. Open of Surfing at the Huntington Pier over the first weekend of August. Conner Coffin, 19, ripped his way to the winner’s circle in the Pro Junior. Without question it was the biggest moment to date in his young career. Coffin’s win was no easy task, as the Santa Barbara standout topped local surfer Kanoa Igarashi (Huntington Beach, CA), 14, Cooper Chapman (AUS), 17, and defending Nike U.S. Open of Surfing Pro Junior Champion Filipe Toledo (BRA), 17, in the final. Last year Lakey Peterson, 17, was a wildcard in the U.S. Open, surfing to an impressive runner-up finish. This year she did one better, winning the final event of the women’s elite tour while solidifying her seeding for 2013. Peterson beat Carissa Moore (HAW) in the final 10.90 to 8.64.  Sage Erickson finished with an =5th, her best result during her rookie campaign. She currently is rated 4th on the women’s world ranking and is in good position to re-qualify for the 2013 elite tour. There are three women’s star events left in September, so the opportunity is there for the Ventura local. On the men’s side of things, young Australian Julian WIlson was victorious over Brazilian Miguel Pupo 17.53 to 14.76. Pupo bested 11-time world champ Kelly Slater in the semifinals. In the dream match-up, Slater beat Ventura’s Dane Reynolds in the quarterfinals.

Lakey Petersen one upped herself from last year and won the US Open.


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SEPTEMBER 2012 Tide Chart Ventura, CA


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

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Following her solid =5th place finish at the U.S. Open, Ventura local Sage Erickson, 21, used that momentum to propel herself to victory just down the road at the 6-Star Paul Mitchell Supergirl Pro at the Oceanside Pier August 9 through 12. In punchy 2- to 4-foot peaks, Erickson claimed her first major victory by out-scoring New Zealander Paige Hareb, 22, in the final 14.00 to 13.00. With three 6-Star events left in Europe, Erickson finds herself in prime position to requalify for the Women’s Elite Tour for 2013.  She is currently rated #2 on the Women’s World Ranking. - C.G.

Sage Erickson looks to requalify for the Women's Elite Tour.

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After days on end of lay days, the Billabong Pro Tahiti at the famed Teahupoo squeezed out the event on the last two days of the waiting period. Australian Mick Fanning, current world number one beat fellow countrymen Joel Parkinson in good 4-to-6-foot barrels. It was Fanning's first victory at Teahupoo. With the victory, Fanning firmly cements himself in the ratings lead heading into the second half of the year and the chase for the world title. Kelly Slater took an uncharacteristic early exit in round 3 at the hands of event wild card Ricardo dos Santos of Brazil. Slater had the lead throughout their heat, but lost in the waning seconds to the goofyfooter. Slater currently is in fourth on the ratings heading to Trestles.

Pay Dirt for Erickson

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Conner Coffin's biggest surfing moment.

Slater Chopped at Teahupoo

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Pay to Park? No thanks

Ventura’s C-Street Contest


The California Street Classic Surf Contest will celebrate over a quarter century of surf stoke on September 15 and 16 at Surfer’s Point in Ventura. The longest running surfing contest in Ventura County is hosted by the Ventura Surf Club and will include longboard divisions, the newly added short board division, feature vendors and artisans. “Over the years some of the best surfers in California have come to the C-Street contest, and we’ve seen some amazing surfing,” said Ventura Surf Club contest coordinator Michael Mariani. “But it’s not really about the competition. We’ve always tried to put on a contest where fun and camaraderie come first.” Ventura has a rich surfing history. The contest traces its roots back to one of the first professional surf contests held in California. Tom Morey’s Nose Riding Contest, held in 1965, drew many of the biggest names in surfing, including legends like Mickey Munoz, Robert August, Donald Takayama and David Nuuhiwa. “The new generation of surfers around the world are taking surfing to incredible new levels, and our local waters are home to some of the world’s best young surfers,” said Mariani.

The people have been heard. Santa Barbara County Park Commissioners took to heart the pleas of hundreds of county residents when they voted unanimously on Aug. 23 to recommend an end to a proposal that would generate between $1.5 and $2.5 million per year through the implementation of parking fees at seven county beaches, including Rincon Point. Addressing Park Commissioners at the first of three public hearings designed to gather input for the proposal, Rincon mainstay Tony DeGroot said, “Am I in favor or against this? It’s like asking am I in favor or against you chopping my left arm off.” The public meetings drew nearly 100 SB County residents to the podium to lambaste the pay-toplay concept. No one spoke in favor of the fees. Additionally, 76 to 78 percent of the nearly 1,300 people who filled out an online survey opposed the fee proposal. Most of the comments were from folks who said beach use affordability should be protected; fees could have ranged between $1 per hour and $6 per day. Significant feedback also came from people who live or run businesses in beach areas and don’t want their parking to be impacted by beachgoers avoiding the fees. Representing Surfrider Foundation, Everett Lipman called the fee a “beach tax” and said, “We are going to vigorously oppose any implementation of fees.” He added, “Let’s not charge working-class families making $35,000 a year in order to pave roads in Montecito.” Ultimately, the decision lies in the hands of the SB County Supervisors, who are working to patch the $9 to $15 million shortfall anticipated for next year’s county budget. It is unlikely, however, that the supes will ignore the Parks Commission’s recommendation. “The public spoke loudly and clearly and said our quality of life depends on free access to our beaches,” said First District Supervisor Salud Carbajal, who confirmed that he will vote against beach fees when the issue comes to the board in October.

For more information and to sign up, visit

Lost Art Found Come see the lost surf art of Rick Sharp and listen to his stories about his unique blend of pen and ink fantasy surf art created during the 1970s and his paintings of point-rich surf breaks of Santa Barbara County. On Thursday, Sept. 20 at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum there will be an artists reception from 6 to 7 p.m. At 7 p.m., Sharp will give a lecture about his artwork. The event is free of charge and the museum is located at 113 Harbor Way at the Santa Barbara Harbor. Today Sharp’s retro artwork of the Hawaiian Islands is distributed throughout the chain, and his vintage California travel posters are sold along the California coast.

Get to the Boardroom Surfboard Show The Boardroom International Surfboard Show is nearing and will take place October 6 through 7 at the Del Mar Fairgrounds. The Boardroom will honor legendary surfer Mark Richards (MR) during the “Icons of Foam Tribute” presented by US Blanks. Shapers will include Santa Barbara-based Wayne Rich, Ricky Carroll, Pat Rawson, Reno Abellira, 15-year-old Taz Yassine and John Pyzel. The Boardroom features top surfboard shapers, manufacturers and designers, foam, fins, wetsuits and more. The Boardroom events and exhibits include live shaping, laminating, music, food, beer, board demos, performance art, surf movies, a longboard skate zone, a vintage board swap, and much more. A Best of Show concept area will allow shapers to create, enter, and display boards in five categories—Best Sustainable Surfboard, Best Concept Surfboard, Best Wooden Surfboard, Best Longboard, and Best High Performance Shortboard.

For more information call (805) 962-8404 x115 or visit, www.sbmmorg. To see more of Sharp’s artwork visit, - C.G.

For more information visit

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446 E. MAIN STREET VENTURA Not to be used for navigation. Do not rely on data for decisions that can result in harm to anyone or anything.

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SEPTEMBER 2012 Tide Chart Ventura, CA



Ryan Lovelace’s “v.Bowls” A Mid-Length Wonder STORY BY MICHAEL KEW


was no classic anti-hipster slap-down. Nary a hull hoax nor alaia redux, and this had nothing to do with designer handplanes. In May 2011, Santa Barbara’s Ryan Lovelace grappled with a real-life coup d’état. Call it the v.Bowls Victory. “There was a huge void in surfboard design, flanked by either long shortboards or short longboards,” Lovelace said of his mindset 16 months yore. “I was curious to probe that void.” But, wait, Ryan—what’s a v.Bowls? “Many people assume, since I was heavily into hulls the last few years, that it’s a hull. It’s not. I took what I learned from the research and development that I dedicated to traditional displacement hulls, and I directed some of those curves and balances into a template that is much more approachable and adaptable to different waves and surfing styles.” Lovelace’s first v.Bowls, a yellowy 8-footer, afforded a greased break from aforementioned hull


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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

Trevor Gordon streaking in Ventura on his 7'10" v.Bowls. JIM MARTIN

behavior, a perky verve coupled with traditional soapy flow and speed, a combo foreign from prior mid-length talking points. “I ended up flipping my hull template backward and putting RYAN LOVELACE a really narrow, round nose on it,” he said, “basically stretching and reversing what I’d been shaping for the past couple years. With that came a massive change in foil and balance. Everything shifted from forward to backward, which changed the rocker, the rail line, the deck curve, and the thickness flow, but their relationship—how they worked together— stayed the same. “With the v.Bowls, you keep the ball-bearing feeling and boost that a traditional hull gives you when you step forward on it. With my first v.Bowls, I had that acceleration and juice right where 90 percent of surfers naturally stand on a surfboard, and I didn’t lose any of the forward trim that we’re all so addicted to.” And so, in vernal 2011, the v.Bowls that Lovelace shaped for himself simultaneously parted the oft-misunderstood mid-length veil. Ventura’s Troy Mothershead, another elite shredder on all craft, was immediately and deeply moved by the v.Bowls aesthetic. “It had such a unique outline,” he said. “My initial thought was, ‘That’s an odd-looking surfboard. ’ I’m not sure I’d seen anything similar.” Odd-looking is now a permanent trait of his select quiver. “The v.Bowls gives you a different waveriding perspective,” he said. “It has challenged and freed my mind. It does unique things that other boards won’t. It glides and drives off the bottom superbly. It definitely wants to be in the bowl, and the bowl is where all the magic happens. It persuades you to slow yourself down and check in with what the wave wants you to do. There is something special hidden within the lines that makes it stand alone.” Trevor Gordon: “The first time I saw the design, it was Ryan riding his yellow board at Leadbetter. That thing was going so fast on such slow waves—I had to get my hands on one. It’s definitely in a league of its own. Mine draws lines and glides effortlessly, making me really relax while I’m surfing, makes me think ahead to what’s going to happen down the line, much more so than I would on a smaller board.” “The v.Bowls changed my approach to surfing,” Goleta stylist Mike McCrary said. “I now see waves with more flow than ever. Wild, high-trim groovy lines lead into long cutbacks, all started by fade-away take-offs and slingshotting high-lines.” Ironically, Lovelace’s mid-length cabal was sparked by Wayne Lynch, the “teenage messiah,” according to surf scribe Matt Warshaw, of Australia’s late-1960s shortboard revolution. “I was inspired by a board that my friend Jordan Nobel in Australia had shaped as a new-school ‘Evolution’-style Wayne Lynch egg,” Lovelace said. “I borrowed that board and it sparked my thoughts and gave me a heavy desire to shape a board inspired by it when I got home.” We’re glad you came home, Ryan. Really.

Breaking New Ground Last year Lakey Peterson won the Women’s Pro Junior at the Nike U.S. Open. This year another Santa Barbarian, Conner Coffin, took the Men’s Pro Junior title. Coffin, 19, stood out amongst the pilings at the Huntington Pier, dominating the final against Kanoa Igarashi (USA), Cooper Chapman (AUS) and Filipe Toledo (BRA) in front of family and friends. Santa Barbara’s long lineage of great competitive surfers continues with Coffin. He’s currently rated the #1 Pro Junior in North America. Here’s what the newly crowned champ had to say three days following his impressive victory at Surf City. DEEP: During the U.S. Open, when did it dawn on you that you might have a legitimate shot at winning the Pro Junior title?


Conner Coffin: Actually, going into the event I was feeling really confident that I had a shot. Last March I won a Pro Junior at Pipe, so I felt I had a chance. But in my quarterfinal heat I had a high 9 and an 8, so I felt I was onto something. DEEP: Brad Gerlach (former ASP World #2) has been your personal coach for around a year now. How did that relationship come about, and what sort of influence has he had on your surfing and competitive approach? CC: My uncle was photographing Gerr, and told him about my brother (Parker) and me. We started hanging out and surfing. Gerr has really helped with my mental approach more than anything. He’s helped me to relax and surf my heats as if I was free surfing. Technically we’ve worked on my turns. Things I wouldn’t think of.


DEEP: When you knew you had won the Pro Junior title, what was your initial reaction? CC: I couldn’t stop smiling. I saw my brother and dad running up the beach and they carried me to the podium. DEEP: You still have another year competing at the Pro Junior level. What else are you shooting for moving forward? CC: I’m going to surf some QS and some Prime events, but mostly focusing on the Juniors. I’m working on my surfing and traveling. I want to be well-rounded before I really focus on the tour. Following his win at the U.S. Open, Coffin competed in the Coastal Edge Vans Pro Junior in late August to secure his #1 ranking in North America. He didn’t do as well as he would’ve liked, finishing =13th. It was enough, however, to keep him in the top spot.

North America's Pro #1 Junior, Conner Coffin.

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ow much is a good board worth? I found myself asking this question as I merged onto Highway 101 going south. I had spent the previous day driving roughly 300 miles to get home from a trip to the mountains. I didn’t arrive until late, but as soon as I woke up the next morning I found out the board I had been waiting for was ready. I was sunburnt and tired from a weekend of hiking and swimming in the Sierras, and the last thing I wanted to do was get back in my car and drive. For the last few years I have been getting my boards from Robert Weiner (Roberts Surfboards) out of Ventura, and I have yet to get a bad one. This is one of the reasons why it didn’t take me long to decide to get back in my car and drive another two hours south from my home near Pismo Beach down to Ventura to pick up the


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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012


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team rider: Fred Roberts

The author on one of Roberts Surfboards experimental

fishes called the Future Fish. JEFF PFOST board. I’ve come to realize that a good board is a precious commodity in my surfing life. It can be the difference between having fun in two-foot windswell chop or getting frustrated. And with forecasts calling for at least another week of windswell chop, I knew that board was going to keep me motivated to paddle out in the dismal summer conditions. So without much deliberation I was on the road again. All that time on the road gives one the chance to think. And for me I kept coming back to my initial question, how much is a good board worth? More specifically, how much is a good shaper worth? I’ve gotten boards from a number of shapers over the years, and all the shapers have been talented craftsmen. But shaping is like any other art form, it’s something that is only mastered by those willing to spend countless solitary and thankless hours in pursuit of understanding their chosen medium. The ones who do it for the money will never truly master it. Most shapers will never get rich or famous for their efforts, but in my opinion they ought to be the highest paid individuals in the surf industry. The shapers who have made a good living from crafting surfboards didn’t do so overnight, nor did they set out to do so. In fact most famous shapers’ success seems more the result of happy coincidences, or perhaps their passion finding opportunity in their circumstances. But regardless of how they made it, none of them did it for the money. So just how much is their talent worth to you? To me, my surfboard is the most important piece of surf equipment I own. Without surfboards, the surf industry would cease to exist. Think about that, the multi-billion dollar juggernaut that is the surf industry would not even exist without shapers. Contests, webcams, wetsuits, T-shirts, board shorts, sandals with bottle openers, none of it would have selling power and thus would not be paying peoples’ bills without your local shaper. Those kids in Iowa who just watched the latest Hollywood surf flick wouldn’t even know there was such an activity like surfing if it wasn’t for surfboard builders. When put in perspective of the importance of what they provide, shapers are the poorest compensated individuals who make a living in the surf industry. And they are the very ones who make it possible for billion dollar surf companies to exist. When I got to Robert’s factory in Ventura to pick up my board, Rob and his lovely wife were hard at work. We chatted for a bit, then I grabbed my board and gave it a once over. Just looking at it I knew it was worth every penny, and instantly I didn’t care about the driving either. So I guess my question could be answered in the same manner as the famous credit card commercial: wax, $1; wetsuit, $300; leash, $25; being able to paddle out and do something I love, priceless. Thanks Rob!


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Magic Bored

Curren putting the Black Beauty through its paces in 1986 at Rincon. BILL TOVER



or all the boards you have had in your life, how many of them have really been magical? Is it really the board under your feet or just your attitude and rhythm with the ocean? Sure the rocker entry needs to be right, the rails forgiving and the fins in the right place, but we have all had the feeling of making bad waves good and every session and wave count. If Kelly needed to he could ride an unshaped blank to victory and if you really needed to, any board off the rack would be fun, too. What really matters is that you are going surfing and treating yourself to a healthy venture that cannot be taken away from you. Stoke is worth a hundred magic boards, and any witness to a grom paddling out or someone catching their first tube can bear testimony to this. So I say screw the quest for the magic board and let every board be magical. For each generation of surfers there has been the state of the art design, whether it was the Black Beauty of Curren, Occy’s Rustys or Aipa’s twins. Every top surfer has sought out his or her “magic one,” and every one of those has now been replaced by the next. Those old gems are now filling landfills or, if they’re lucky, are hidden under houses, hanging in rafters or just maybe coming out once a year to get wet at retro surf contests. Each design has contributed to today’s modern board and the advancement of the sport around the globe. It all comes together to form one amazing thing that we do, and the point is we should not get caught up in details, trivia and judgments. Still the best surfer is the one having the most fun.

Photo: Patagonia, Koreski

SANTA BARBARA 14 STATE STREET 962-0049 Mon-Thurs and Sat 10-6 Fri 10-7, Sun 11-5 At the Beach • Free Parking

SAN LUIS OBISPO 667 MARSH STREET 543-1676 MON-SAT 10 - 6 THURS 10 - 8, SUN 11- 4 Corner of Broad & Marsh Locally owned and Operated for over 30 years!


Weiner perfectly slotted. SETH DE ROULET

TRI-COUNTY SHAPERS SYMPOSIUM Travers Adler on a 6' 7" White Owl stubbie, 2012. BRENT LIEBERMAN


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012


White Owl Surfboards

Wahl Surfboards

Crafting Your Future On a Wave of Skill

White Owl Comes Full Circle

A Shaper's HandA Surfer's Paradise



— B Y S H AW N T R A C H T —


obert Frank Weiner was born in 1961 to a pair of ocean loving parents in Orange County. He doesn’t remember it, but his folks took him to Huntington Beach for his first few steps in the sand. At the age of 2, the family moved to the San Fernando Valley so that his dad could take on high-end painting jobs in plush Beverly Hills. The game plan was to forego building a pool in the backyard for making the ocean at Bay Street in Santa Monica their front yard. In the warmer months, you could find Robert and his salt-water siblings in the ocean at least four days a week. “My first board was a hand-me-down Bing longboard that I surfed for the first time in 1969. You could buy a longboard at a yard sale for nothing because the shortboard revolution was going on. Then my brother and I would take them and cut them down. I shaped my first surfboard at age 12. I remember all the fiberglass


ive-year-olds don’t usually fix dings. But in 1957, Gregg Tally, a first-grader at Montecito Union, had his mom, who’d taught him to surf, drive him to Linwald’s in Santa Barbara’s boatyard. Nowhere else in town sold resin and fiberglass. “I had a balsa surfboard that I’d drag across the rocks at Hammond’s, dinging the tail, wearing it down,” Tally said. “So early on, for me, ding repair became an essential skill.” He fixed dings for friends, too. Then, in 1961, Jeff White opened White Owl Surf Shop in Summerland. “Jeff had a lot of rentals and trade-ins,”Tally said, “and he sold them to me for really cheap. I’d fix them up and sell them to the kooks. That was my first real ‘business’ in the surf industry.” Later, White taught Tally how to build a surfboard from the ground up, which, in 1967, Tally did in his parents’ garage.

A Passion is Born


orn and raised on the Central Coast, PJ Wahl represents this coastline’s open-minded, slow-paced, breathe-free attitude. A shaper for over 40 years, Wahl has come to be known as one of the best performance surfboard shapers on the Central Coast. As the story goes, Wahl began surfing early, at 12. When he was 14, his treasured 10-foot Yater Spoon was finally damaged beyond repair, thus creating a turning point in Wahl’s life. He decided to go on a little mission with that board, stripping the glass and reshaping it into an 8’6.” A deep love for shaping surfboards would become his life long passion.

Panama to Canada - Learning Abroad As a surfing pioneer, Wahl graduated high school early and,

PJ Wahl's son, Matt, fins free on the Central Coast.    JEFF PFOST



stuck in my hands because we would literally would take a pair of plyers and tear the glass off and re-shape the longboard into a little fish or a shortboard.” Out in the Valley at Porter Junior High School, Weiner decided to make a surfboard for his woodshop class. His teacher, a strict grader named Mr. Farquhar, didn’t surf but he knew quality workmanship when he saw it. “I glassed it in woodshop and got a B+ for a double wing round tail inspired by Shaun Tomson. It had tinted resins in the deck and the rails were red. (Farquhar) was very tough, so I


thought the B+ was a pretty good grade.” From then on, Weiner was well on his way to becoming the premier surfboard craftsman he is today. Casey McCrystal was nearby, so Weiner started riding McCrystal’s boards. At age 26, fully into the surfboard industry, Weiner moved to Oxnard where McCrystal had opened his factory. “ I worked with him for seven years, learning every facet of the surfboard building process. It was already in my blood— it wasn’t even like working! ” He would surf every morning then work until late at night to make money and learn all he could. “I started from the bottom doing hand sanding—even making fins by hand. That’s one of the things I pride myself on—that I can build an entire surfboard all the way through. It’s like I have a doctorate in surfboard building—like a true craftsman.” About 17 years ago Weiner’s label went out on it’s own and



Photo by

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

has been in the same location in Ventura for about 15 years. Nestled in an industrial area where you can buy tile or get your muffler fixed, the shop has become a mecca for surfers that are looking for a quality board that has stood the test of time and has been proven in competition as well as free surf locations around the world. Weiner has won a total of four National titles himself. “That solidifies the fact that I am a good enough surfer to know what works”, says Weiner. Local rippers like Mike and Matt McCabe, rely on their longterm relationship to keep their wave riding in a progressive mode. Even the youngest of the surging groms like Eithan Osborne seek out Weiner because he knows how to scale down the boards so that the smaller and lighter kids can perform the most explosive moves. “Smaller boards mean that every little detail matters. The beauty of it is that with the computer we can scale it down, which is really great because at this point you know you have a proven board that just needs to be re-sized.” So what does Weiner see for the future? Boards are getting slightly smaller and therefore rotating in the air faster— and landing much harder. This leads to his thoughts on livelier and more durable materials and the concept of a $10,000 dollar surfboard for the upper echelon of surfers, which will have great trickle down technology for the average board rider. “I heard someone ask why don’t pro surfers ride $10,000 surfboards? A car racer drives a vehicle worth millions so that he has every advantage. What about a surfer with that level of performance equipment? That’s what I am working on—it may be a $1,000 dollar board but it will be the best you can get and it will enhance your surfing—and that’s the name of the game.” So if you really want to see, feel and ride what is next, get a Robert’s surfboard under your feet. Robert's Surfboards are available at Revolution Surf Co. (Camarillo), Ventura Surf Shop (Ventura) and Esteem (Pismo Beach). Visit or call (805) 658-6855.

Photo by Kew

“It was a RAG board, which stood for ‘Rush And Gregg,’ after my friend Rush Hinsdale. As people were transitioning to shortboards, longboards became irrelevant, so we bought longboards real cheap and ruined them. We’d strip them, cut them down, reshape them, glass them, and made a lot of shortboards in that era. We took some to Hawaii, and paid for our visits that way, because Rush and I had relatives on Oahu.” RAG Surfboards lasted from 1967 to 1970, when Hinsdale left to pursue art in New York City and Tally moved to Hawaii. “I became a production worker in some of the factories there. I did ghost-shaping, glassing, hot-coating, sanding, made fins— whatever made money. That gave me a lot of experience through the years, and I stayed with it. I’ve always loved to work with surfboard foam, fiberglass, and resin, so I’ve kept my fingers in it for most of my life.” In 1994, Tally revisited Santa Barbara to have knee surgery, but it evolved into something more permanent. “My mother was becoming elderly, and she couldn’t move to Hawaii with me, so I sold everything there and moved back here in 1995. I started doing restoration work for Roger Nance, who was Jeff White’s business partner at the Beach House. He had a massive collection of old surfboards. We started restoring them, and it was great fun.” By then, White was retired from the world of retail, but his surf stoke remained. “We’d romp down memory lane, because Jeff loved to talk about old times. Of course we talked about White Owl, and one of his biggest regrets was stopping surfboard production and going into the clothing business. He really missed White Owl Surfboards.” In 1997 White asked Tally if he would like to bring the label back. “That was the proudest day of my life,”Tally said. He built a small shaping shed in his leafy backyard and began crafting surfboards for the Beach House. They included

PJ WAHL contemporary thrusters, Big Boy Tris, retro single-fins, and guns. Today, 15 years on, Tally and White Owl have come full-circle, Santa Barbara style, going back to 1966 and the Wilderness-era stubbie. “Stubbies are the focus of White Owl right now,” Tally said, “mainly because I’m really far behind in my orders!” (laughs) It began with a serendipitous meeting in the Rincon Point parking lot. “Ryan Lovelace ran into a guy there who’d been involved in the demolition of the Wilderness Surf Shop a few years back. He had some old, deteriorated templates he’d found behind a wall there. He gave them to Ryan, and Ryan brought them to my house. One of them was the original Greenough Santa Barbara stubbie. It had the Santa Barbara round tail on it, and the moment I saw it, I knew what it was. It’s basically a stretched-out kneeboard that looks like a short longboard. It was a high-performance shortboard from that shortboard-revolution era.” Tally and Lovelace made templates from that original piece of tarpaper, and I talked Tally into making one for me. That stubbie went so well that Tally decided to continue making them custom for other team riders and stock for the Beach House. “Doing these boards now brings back that really powerful, energetic era, which was really important to me,” Tally said. “And when Jeff was still alive, he was very pleased that White Owl was returning. For me, White Owl has always been like a religious experience. Jeff was such a prime motivator and a positive influence in my life in so many ways. It’s very emotional for me to have the White Owl label under my name. “There’s not a day when I don’t think about Jeff. I still consider White Owl to be his. I’m just helping it along.” White Owl Surfboards are available at the Beach House, 10 State Street in Santa Barbara. Visit or call (805) 963-1281

Photo by Tracht

in the spring of 1971, left for Kauai where he learned to ride the Hawaiian juice. Later that year, and before surf travel became the craze and obsession of the modern surfer, he began a 10-year surf mission from Panama to Canada, and most every accessible place in between. Twice he drove through Central America, scoring rider-less waves. As for shaping and learning how to make the best surfboards, Wahl’s career solidified upon both the opportunity to make mistakes as well as an opportunity to think outside the box. “The late ’60s and ’70s on the Central Coast was a sort of no man’s land ... Southern California had a huge shaping population on the rise, and they were able to see what each other were doing regularly in and out of the water. Well, up here, on the Central Coast, there really wasn’t anybody to bank your ideas off, so it was more of a ‘shape as you go,’ trial and error learning experience. In one way, my progression was probably a little bit slower because of that, but in the long run, I have been much better off, especially in pushing my shapes, because when I made all of those mistakes, I figured out what every inch of a surfboard could and would do when adding or subtracting all the different features: thickness, concavity, rocker, foil, etc. By learning through my own mistakes, I really learned a lot more.” “The other major influences in my shaping career—again because I wasn’t in Southern California—came from all these other surfer/shapers I was meeting in my travels. Instead of just one school of thought from a niche in California, I was meeting shapers from all over the world who were bringing ideas from every corner of the surfing planet. I was able to obtain a vision of a more global way of pushing surfboard shaping. This was invaluable to me.”

Future is Present, Not Stagnant Wahl is a custom surfboard builder. Every board is his signature, and every board soils his skin with white foam dust. When you order a Wahl custom surfboard, it is as progressive as the sport of surfing is today. It is an art which is being challenged heavily by

Chinese pop-out shapes, but with a cool confidence Wahl explains why the best surfers in the water, and anyone who is passionate about surfing their best, continue to order their hand-shaped customs from him. “Let’s put it this way. When all these guys make pop-out surfboards, there is a price everyone pays ... and it’s not just the ecological price. First and foremost, supply and demand control prices, so to pop out boards at competitive prices, these companies have to order an excess number of boards to make the pricing worth it. Then these boards come over here and sit in warehouses for a long, long time, waiting for a spot somewhere on a shelf. Meanwhile, as a year or two goes by, that once intriguing shape becomes outdated as the style of surfing evolves. “A surfer who wants to get the most out of his/her surfing experience deserves the latest intricacies of curve and flow that are tailored for the waves they ride and that emerge from the constantly changing industry. With social media and 40 years of friends in the surfboard industry, I am communicating with top builders and surfers about how particular minor details can help modern surfers continue to progress as the styles of surfing are pushed. “From this, my stoke comes from knowing that even after making someone a magic board many times, I can still make them ‘the best board they’ve ever had’ most every time they come back for their next custom shape. This is what continues to give me the drive and satisfaction to be proud of the profession I’ve chosen after all these years. The details and fine-tuning it takes to make the most high performance shapes for each and every individual can be the difference of just a couple passes with just the right grit of sandpaper in just the right spot on the board. “Pop-out boards become quickly stagnant in their shapes, where hand shapes run the curves of evolution up to the very minute a customer shakes my hand with an order and my planer mows another round of foam.” Visit Wahl’s website for more information,



All NEW Fall/Winter Wetsuits in Stock! Come in and try one today!!!

surf shop & surfboards :: 43 S. Olive Street :: Ventura (805) 641-9428 :: mon-fri 10am-5pm :: sat 10am-6pm :: sun 11am-5pm TIM DAVIS © 2012 Fletcher Chouinard Designs, Inc.

(hours subject to change depending on swell)

“We are MORE than Just a Surf Shop”

(805) 963-1281 • 10 State Street • Dowtown Santa Barbara S U R F R I D E R F O U N DAT I O N S A N TA B A R B A R A C H A P T E R

SINCE 1962

Great Selection of SUPS We Buy & Sell Surfboards Check out the NEW Pismo Beach Surf Museum! Shop Owner Bill Bookout

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS OF PROTECTING OUR LOCAL BEACHES IN COASTLINE IN 2012 • Next Mixer: October 18. Dr. Dawn Osborn, Antioch University biologist - "An Ocean Pollution Action Plan”

We Specialize in Diving, Kayaking, Surfing, SUP Surfing, Kayak Tours, Surfing Lessons & Rentals 470 Price Street • Pismo Beach • The Entry to the City (805) 773-2089 • • 24

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

• 7:00 pm @ Watershed Resource Center, Arroyo Burro Beach (next to the Boathouse), 2981 Cliff Drive, Santa Barbara • FREE Chapter t-shirts to anyone who joins or renews membership at the mixers • All ages welcome

Check website for upcoming event listings or to sign up on our monthly e-newsletter

2 01 2 ANNU AL



24 E. Mason St., Santa Barbara (805) 845-5606 •

2 0 12 AN NU A L B O A R D B UY ER S G U I D E

Raven 12’6


12’6 x 30 3/16”

Morrelli and Melvin 12’6

x 6 15/16”

12’6 x 28 ¾ x 5 1/2”

Designed for flatwater touring, fitness paddling, SUP fishing, or just plain getting out on the water. This model is designed for glide and stability making it the perfect all purpose board for lakes, bays, calm seas, harbors, and docile rivers.

Science based design, optimized for speed, the M&M is the fastest raceboard on the water. Designed by world famous yacht builders, Pete Melvin and Gino Morelli, the M&M 12’6 features the signature wave piercing bow. The tail is designed to minimize wetted surface area and drag, release water cleanly and perform well while surfing waves.

Mini Mod 9’1 9’1 29 5/16” x 3 7/16” These boards are designed to be performance surf SUPs but are also a good choice for smaller paddlers looking for a light-weight recreational paddleboard with ample stability. What makes the Mini Mod unique is that it is thinner than most boards on the market which allows the surfer to easily set the rail in bottom and top turns. The Mini Mod was designed to excel in playful sized surf much like many of the popular alternative surfboards on the market today.

Paddle Surf Hawaii 11’0 Wide All Arounder 11’0 x 30 5/8” x 4 7/8” Comfort on the water is what you are going to get from the 11’0 PSH Wide AA. The added bonus is that it surfs really well too. The perfect board for coastal cruising from break to break.

The Joyride 10’11

Infinity 9’0 Slater Trout

Rusty 9’4 Wood Veneer

10’11 x 34” x 5 1/8” The Joyride full Softdeck standup paddle board designed with stability and fun in mind. At 34” wide with a flat rocker and thick foils, the Joyride 8’11 is sure to please the paddler looking for a stable platform. Really fun in small surf especially for those who like to run around on the board.

9’0 x 28” x 4” The Slater 9’0 is more of a traditional performance longboard shape with a flatter, fuller nose allowing for great stability walking the board and nose riding. The board features a nice flip in the exit rocker for excellent turning capabilities with a very thin nose and tail making it much different from your ordinary long board shape. Excels in a wide variety of surf conditions.

9’4 x 28 7/8” x 4 ½” This board delivers the exceptional surfing performance that Rusty is famous for in a beautiful wood veneer that adds strength to the board as well as an attractive organic look. aking it much different from your ordinary long board shape. Excels in a wide variety of surf conditions.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

Shaped by Al Merrick • 36 Anacapa St., Santa Barbara (805) 966-7213 •



Kelly rides his

Rob rides his

5’9” x 18 ¼” x 2 ¼” Fine-tuned during the course of Kelly’s 2011 campaign, the Semi-Pro 12 comes from Kelly’s wider forward outline which incorporates a 12” nose. The main purpose of this design change was to allow for more volume which translates to easier paddling and wave catching while still accommodating a short rail for Kelly’s signature arcs.

5’5” x 18 ¾” x 2 ¼” The “Too” is an all-around performance minded surf craft, well-suited for both pocket surfing and fat sections. Rob super-charged the original Motorboat, added tail rocker, deck rocker, and foiled out the thickness. The bottom is single to double to vee out the back, providing drive and forgiveness. The end result is an updated version that surprised Rob in its performance in all conditions, not a novelty but a user-friendly board for all skill levels.

NECK BEARD (SQUASH TAIL) Dane rides his 5’7” x 19 ½” x 2 5/16” The 2012 Neck Beard tail is taken directly from Dane’s hand-drawn template. Dane kept the overall generous plan-shape to provide a skatey feel, but the tail refinement allows for slightly more back foot sensitivity. Light single concave and vee out the back, increased rail-to-rail transition and wider through the nose and tail. Dane rides the Neck Beard as a tri-fin and as a quad for speeder waves. Comes with a five fin setup to get the best of both worlds. If you are a fan of the Dumpster Diver, then definitely grow out your Neck Beard. Order yours 4 to 6 inches shorter than your height. Ride as a quad for speed.




Conner rides his

Dane rides his

Dane rides his

5’9” x 18 5/8” x 2 3/16” “The Fred Rubble is actually quite a bit different than my other boards. It has a lower entry rocker and a wider outline. It has more volume than a Proton, but it isn’t really short and chunky like a Dumpster Diver. It’s just a fun board for waves from waist high to a little over head. I’ve been riding mine two inches shorter than my standard short board and 1/4 inch wider. For example, my standard short board is a 5’11” x 18 3/8” x 2 3/16” Proton and I ride my Fred Rubble as a 5’9” x 18 5/8” x 2 3/16”

6’0” x 19” x 2 3/8” No, not the “Dane Fred Rubble” the DFR is a new design from Dane freaking Reynolds. An ultra-modern short board, the plan-shape allows for a short rail line while maintaining drive. The bottom is predominately single concave and features an aggressive fl­ip in exit rail rocker. A full outline provides enough volume to ride the DFR about the same length as your height. This short board is not only ready for big airs but also allows for the heaviest carves you can lay down.

5’5” x 21 ¼” x 2 1/16” Put Dane in a blue room with a block of foam, throw out the measuring tools, freehand the outline, eyeball your ­fin placement, and you have the ingredients for something completely different from CI. While the “Sperm Whale” is not for everyone, those with some wave knowledge and a penchant for challenge can fi­nd an entirely different groove.


109 S. Fairview, Goleta • (805) 683-4450

2 0 1 2 A NN U AL B O A R D B UY E R S G U I D E

MONARCH SURFBOARDS by Tyler Anderson Grunion Fish 5’4” x 18 7/16” x 2 ¼” Quad Fin setup Designed for 2’-8’, but best in about 4’-5’ slightly mushy point break surf. Narrower shape allows the board to hold in on a steeper face and have some short board characteristics. Very fast board, and recommended in Epoxy, while maintaining seamless continuity.

Classic outline with a contemporary bottom design. I was trying to make a board that had the look of a board that might have existed in the ‘70s, but wanted to utilize current concave theory to make it perform like a modern short board.

DOUG ROTH SURFBOARDS by John Lessing 18” x 22 ½” x 15 x 3” 2+1 Fin setup Classic square-tail

DOUG ROTH SURFBOARDS by John Lessing 9’2” 16 ¾” x 22 ½” x 14 3/8” x 2 7/8” Quad Fin setup


REVOLUTION HARDWARE by Sean O'Connor Retro-Mod Single Fin

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

MAX MCDONALD SURFBOARDS EB5 Malcom Campbell teamed with shaper Max McDonald to incorporate McDonald’s unique “elevated wing” rail design into the five fin to produce the new “ EB5” (elevated wing Bonzer 5 fin). The EB5 radically increases turning performance on longer boards.

ECLIPSE SURFBOARDS by Greg Iler Devil’s Thumb 6’ 6” x 20 1/8” x 2 5/8” “The Devil and the Deep Blue Sea.” This board has a fuller outline, a bit more foam, and a rocker that maintains speed and momentum. The tail design allows for a smooth drive off the rail, vertical arcs, and big turns in medium to large surf. While a solid concave gives edge control in the hollow sections. From 5’8” to 6’10” this shape is geared toward the ground swells that hit our coast in the winter months. Talk to Doug at Surf Country or Stu at Shell Beach Surf Shop for a Demo.

PROGRESSIVE SURFBOARDS by Dave Johnson Mighty Might 5’10” x 16 ½” x 22 ½” x 18” x 3”  Tired of that sinking feeling in tiny surf? Be tired no more! The new MIghty Might planes up on a ripple, providing exhilarating speed in even the most compromising conditions. The super width and deep concave front that create the planing are offset by the narrowing double wing outline and a revolutionary triple vee tail that makes the board ride narrower than it actually is. Ride it 6” to 8” shorter than your normal board.  

Shape Your Own Board

starting at $400. Includes blank, glassing, fins and tools.

10 State Street, Santa Barbara • (805) 963-1281

WHITE OWL SURFBOARDS by Gregg Tally Santa Barbara Stubbie 6’7” 19” x 22 1/4” x 16 3/4” Templated from an original George Greenough design with the old Santa Barbara roundtail, the SB stubbie surfs best from 6’6” to 7’4”. Primarily designed for point-breaks, it will surf anything with some face to it. Fast, maneuverable and powerful, with a 10” Larry Allison flex fin to provide the maximum slingshot effect off the bottom  and up the face then step on the gas.

ANDREINI SURFBOARDS by Marc Andreini 50th Anniversary Tribute to White Owl Surfboards 9’10” 17 ½” x 22 ½” x 15” Only 14 will be made. This board replicates my first custom Owl in 1963 in every aspect including the purple center of the “D” fin. Only six left. You can order your own stringers and length.

ANDREINI SURFBOARDS by Marc Andreini Vaquero 7’6” 21 ½” x 3” 2 + 1. For performance winter surf at Rincon.

WHITE OWL SURFBOARDS by Gregg Tally Classic Collectors Series Retro Gun 8’0” 10 ½” x 18 ½” x 10 ½” Sleek speed shape from the early ‘70s, down rails, flat bottom with V in front of the glassed on custom handmade Mahogany fin. Old school color pigmentation makes this a bitchin' wall hanger! Can be made without the bells and whistles to be surfed when it’s pumping.

YATER BOARDS by Renny Yater Fun Shape 6’8” – 8’ range A compromise shape that brings together the best of the advantages of short and longboard, all in one board. It makes it easy and fun. Tri or quad. Shown is the 8'0"

YATER BOARDS by Renny Yater Spoon 8’ – 10’6” Mango tint, just one of the many different resin tint colors that you can get on the Yater Spoons. Shown is the 9'6"


446 E. Main Street, Ventura • 800.750.7501 • Custom Boards Available. Check online for stock boards at

TOMO SURFBOARDS by Daniel Thomson Death Star

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TOMO SURFBOARDS by Daniel Thomson V4 Raptor


5’4” x 18” x 2 3/8” The Death Star represents the “NexGen” series of surfboards by Daniel Thompson. A high performance surfboard that garnered best in show at Sacred Craft. You may have seen Tom Curren at the Rincon Classic on this board. One of the most innovative shapes to come out of modern day shaping. Channeled Nose and Tail. 5’2” – 5’6” Custom available.

5’6”-5’11” x 18 ¾” x 2 3 3/8” High Performance MPH in a traditional nose configuration. The same rail and planning shape allows for all the same responsiveness and speed in a conventional package. The Raptor offers a five fin set up ideally suited for a Tri, Twin, Quad, or even a five fin set up. 5’6” – 6’2” Custom available.

JOE B SURFSHAPES by Joe Bauguess Mini Simmons

LIDDLE SURFBOARDS by Greg Liddle Smoothie

5’6” – 5’10” Twin and quad Models. The original Mini Simms. Joe shapes the boards under the exact same template and materials (Epoxy/EPS) that he did when the board was first conceived. The Mini Simms displays incredible down-the-line speed and is an incredibly fast and fun with all the flow of a traditional fish. Available from 5’6” – 5’10”. Custom Available.

6’ 8” – 8’10” The current Liddle’s are a versatile design that rides a variety of surf, from knee high to several feet over head. The boards still retain the “modified hull” feeling; down the line trim speed, smoothness and added easier wave catching ability. They catch waves very easily relative to their length because of the volume, hull and overall design concept. Single Fin. Custom Available.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

TOMO SURFBOARDS by Daniel Thomson Nano MPH 5’4”x 18 ¼” x 2 3/16” In a true hydrodynamic platform. The MPH is a at the forefront of modern refinement and hence a smaller more efficient package to the traditional hp shortboard. Utilizes a more effective planing shape with redistribution of surface area to counteract the reduction in size and volume. The Nano offers a five-fin set up ideally suited for a tri, twin, quad, or even a five-fin set up. 5’2” – 6’8” Custom available.


 Krypt MT5 Surf Mat

Engineered Concave with the outer pontoons having a little more size than the inner ones creating dynamic lift.. Dolphin skin deck with the super thin denier material to create a super lightweight high performance surf mat. Unique valve design. Designed by Mark Thomson



2. ENJOY Handplanes

All handplanes are made from recycled foam from broken surfboards and recycled neoprene from old wetsuits that would otherwise be thrown away. Each handplane is hand shaped, glassed and polished just like a full size surfboard. Shaper Ed Lewis

3. NALU Handplanes

These beautiful handplanes are made with sustainable Paulownia wood and feature the exculsive Nalu ergonomic hand support system with an adjustable neoprene and velcro hand strap. Hand crafted. Shaper Trenton Springer

Custom orders preferred, select models available at Wetsand Surf Shop (Ventura) and Movement Surf Shop (Isla Vista) •



Flex Spoon

7’4” - 8’2” (Best at 8’) Designed to give the best mix of a displacement hull's speed and projection, while using a widepoint-back template and foil to create an extremely fast and responsive midlength. Ridden and driven from behind center to give that slingshot bottom-turn and high line trim that’s so addictive in a wider variety of surf and for a wider audience.

8’2” - 9’ Shaped for all conditions; works well as a not-so-longboard and gives effortless cutbacks and amazing trim speed. The same curves are shared with the v.Bowls design, but altered for a larger plan-shape and is typically shaped with more volume. 

5’ to fit Large point surf and/ or more powerful waves. George Greenough’s design that changed surfing. These are built to be used, not just hung on a wall. Function comes first; they are incredibly labor-intensive to build and riding one on the right wave will change your perspective on surfing waves forever. Available by custom order only.

SB.Stub 6’0” - 7’6” The original stubby template from 19661967, rescued from the old Wilderness house pre-destruction and handed down to for safe keeping and experimentation. These versions are shaped traditionally and with lined up point waves in mind. Slingshot bottom turns and tight pocket rides are the name of the game. 

Rabbit’s Foot

v.Bottom 8’6” - 9’10” (Recommended at 8’10”) All waves overhead and under. A modern take on the transition-era shaped of Bob McTavish. Flat deck lines and thin rails finished off with a deep vee bottom that gives a ball-bearing kind of ride with tons of projection off the bottom and looseness off the lip. Loves playful longboard waves and screams down the line in point surf.

Mid 5’ range A finless design birthed by Dan Malloy and ridden, and tested, around the world by a handful of finless fanatics including Ryan Burch, Trevor Gordon and Ari Browne. Shaped for either rights or lefts but are not exclusive to either, these are experimental crafts that have proven themselves without a doubt. Available by custom order only.

Piggyback 5’4” - 6’ (Best at 5’9”) Waist to overhead plus. This is a modern high performance twin-fin inspired by the surfing of Dave Rastavich, Dan Malloy, Trevor Gordon and Chadd Konig. Loose and drivey with lots of hold and the ability to connect long drawn-out lines on large or small waves. Also available as a quad.


“stay rooted!”

homegrown 2 0 1 2 A NN U AL B O A R D B UY E R S G U I D E



2485 E. Main Street, Ventura (805) 642-7873 (SURF) •

Homegrown, Ventura county's exclusive dealer of Hoyte Designs – hand built by Russell Hoyte.



Double Down Fish

Double Flyer Dart

Twynzer Phynzer

5’4” x 20 ¼” x 2 ¾” Ridden in all types of waves. Knee-high to overhead. Great all around board.

5’8” x 19 ¾” x 2 ¼” Ridden in shoulder to overhead surf as a quad or thruster.

6’0” x 20 ½” x  2 5/8” Chest-high to double overhead. Better for open faced waves. Fast like a twin fin. Positive like a thruster.

Symmons SpaceBar

Twynzer Symster

5’6” x 23” x 3” Ridden in waist-high to overhead surf.  

5’8” x 22” x 2 ¾” Great for all types of waves. From chest-high to overhead.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

Lil’ Darling 6’11” x 21” x 2 5/8” Fun board. Ridden in waist-high surf to overhead.  

154 E. Thompson Blvd., Ventura (805) 652-2201 •

ORBICULAR SURFBOARDS SUP by Randy Schaefer Orbicular Flyer SUP

Clyde Beatty Jr. SUP by Clyde Beatty Jr.

STEWART SURFBOARDS by Bill Stewart Redline 11

9’0” to 10’0” Best in point surf. Shown is 9'4" model.

7’0” Their most popular board ever! An easy riding, high-performance surfboard that paddles like a longboard, but surfs like a shortboard. Goes Mach 4 in gutless 1-ft. slop and comes unglued in overhead waves. Intentionally designed to stay planing high on top of the water while carrying blazing speed thru S-turns and effortless roundhouse cutbacks. Ideal board for beginner, intermediate and advanced surfers wanting to quickly improve their skill level. Available from 4’6” to 8’6”. Typical dimensions: 7’0” x 22 1/4” x 3”

9’0” to 11’6” Many styles of SUP designs include boards made for paddling, surf and new twin fin designs.

9’6” x 29 ½” x 4 ¼” 5 fin Best in point waves Also available are Orbicular Flyer shortboards and Eggs (stop by the shop to see)

DAVENPORT SURFBOARDS by Adam Davenport 40/65

Stoker V Machine by Bruce Fowler

9’0” x 22” x 2 ½” Comes in 9’0” only with varying width and thickness. Surfs everything. In 2011, Bill Stewart refined the Hydro Hull design to create the Redline 11. Calling it the Ultimate 9'0”, Bill says this is the best longboard design he’s ever shaped. It has a fuller nose outline and a lower entry rocker combined with a deep single concave that runs past the midpoint turning into a double concave with plenty of vee in the tail.

DENNIS RYDER SURFBOARDS by Dennis Ryder Retro Hull Sizes 6'0'' to 8'0'' The Retro Displacement Hull is the ultimate rail surfing machine. Good for surfing point and reef waves from shoulder high and higher. Smooth deep bottom turns and big radius turn backs and more speed than you have ever experienced. Originally I shaped these boards during my days at Wilderness and now with subtle refinements.

CLYDE BEATTY JR. SURFBOARDS Rocket Fish 5’8” and longer Best in juicy surf. Shown is 6'2" model.


Sold and distributed by Upright Sports • 4193 Carpinteria Ave., Suite 10, Carpinteria (805) 318-1SUP (1787) •

Mano Series SUP

2 0 1 2 A NN U AL B O A R D B UY E R S G U I D E

GT Series SUP


Available 9’ to 12’ Hibiscus board shown at 10'0" Bamboo board shown at 9'6" The Mano Standup Paddle Board is the board you want if you are looking to buy your first SUP or you’re an experienced paddler or surfer looking for a versatile SUP that paddles great and excels in waves. The wider widths on our Mano SUPs provide excellent stability for beginners. Anyone will be able to stand up and paddle these SUPs in no time. The Mano’s pulled-in nose and the tapered-in tail also provides a sleek design that allows this board to cut through choppy waves and glide smoothly over flat water. And our pintail design also provides a reduction in the tail surface area, which helps maintain control and provide smoother turns when surfing and paddling. Colors: Red, Blue, White, Green, Yellow, Bamboo Veneer, Honu/Hibiscus Print. Bamboo Veneer also available with Quad+1 fin setup (9', 9'6" or 10')

Available 9’6 to 10’6” Shown 10' The GT is our most high-performance SUP. It is very nimble in small waves and very fast down the line in large waves. If you have no fear, the GT Series will take you to the next level. Colors: Red, Blue, White, Green, Yellow, Bamboo Veneer, Tapa Fabric

Hoe Nalu Island Classic SUP Shown 12’ Available 9’2” to 12’ Our Island Classic SUP was inspired by the longboards of the early 60’s. The classic round nose and squash tail make this SUP super stable and easy to surf, which will allow anyone to learn to surf, stand up and paddle the very first time they get on. If you are into longboards, you will love the Island Classic retro-design. The Island Classic is fast becoming the go-to SUP for Soul Surfers and paddlers. Colors: Red, Blue, White, Green, Yellow, Bamboo Veneer

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

Longboard Surfboard Shown 10’ Available 8'6" to 10' Colors: Red, Yellow, Blue, Bamboo Veneer, Tapa Fabric

Fun Shape Surfboard Shown 7’4” Available in Red, Yellow, Bamboo Veneer, Tapa Fabric

14’ Downwind Racer SUP 14’ x 28” x 5 1/4” Volume: 250.33L Designed for long distance paddling and speed, this downwinder race board has tackled races like the Molokai Channel and coastal routes of California.

JVP Surfboards 100% hand shaped by John Perry • (805) 637-5100 • Customs always available!



Competition Spoon

7’4” – 8’6” 2 + 1 fin setup My personal model. This shape is not a quick study. There is a lot of surfboard evolution built into it. Speed lines combined with drafting hull components, along with concaves, rocker and fin placement were deduced over a five-year period. Cross stepping, carving bottom turns and off the lips. Travels over slow sections and is comfortable in the pit. This board never seems to get old under your feet.

9’ – 10’ 2 + 1 fin and Spoon is optional Unlike a traditional longboard approach, it rides easily from the center as you would a short board, pump and turn. The continuous bottom concave and double barrel allow this board to generate a lot of speed. Three words describe this design: Power, grace and glide.

8’6” – 10’ Single fin with side bites either/or Stepped Nose (Spoon) to support nose riding and for lessening the swing weight for whipping the nose around. Chamfer rails, single to double barrel concaves keep this board trimming and easy to turn. Definitely an out-of-thebox high performer.

Shrimp Model

Trusty Pin 5’2” – 6’8” Tri-fin Just clean surfing, especially as the surf gets better. Calculated rocker, single to double barreled, concaves between rolled “V” makes for controlled speed, driving cutbacks and smooth rail to rail turns.

Beach Breaker

Threedom All World

5’2” – 6’ Fits in tight, quick reeling type waves. No wasted outline on this design. A lean, compact, and efficient shape. Subtle concave bottom for more planing surface to generate quick out of the gate speed. Works equally well in hollow point waves. Choose your weapon fin set up: Parallel quad, twin fin or thruster.

5-4” - 7’8” 2 +1 fin setup This is the original Threedom model from 1980. Of course the new ones are more refined with modern udpates. This is a design I had from way back in the early ‘80s. A shortboard with a 2+1 fin arrangement. My best kept secret. You’ll have to try one to see how it performs.

Quad or tri-fin (Both ride uniquely different). Our riders call it the ripper. High energy board design to generate a lot of turning even in low energy spots on the wave. Because of the extra flotation volume, you can ride it a few inches smaller than your usual. It may require getting used to the looseness at first, but you’ll adjust to a very busy ride. Quad or Tri-Fin, both ride uniquely different like having two boards in one. Really a great machine for most of our wave conditions around here.


Matt Moore Surfboards Shaped by Matt Moore 659 Linden Avenue, Carpinteria • (805) 684-2413 • • Customs Always Available

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The Hatchet


The Clog

Sea Plate

5’8” x 20 ¾” x 3 ¼” For small to medium California beach breaks or point breaks. Quad fin set up.

6’2” x 20 ½” x 2 5/8” Super foiled, flat rocker, Greenoughesque Flyer. Best in 1 to 6-foot point break, pocket surfing. Single fin.

Mini Bar 5’7” x 22” x 2 ¾” Twin fin, mini Simmons styled. From zero - ??? Good in all conditions. Fast, super planable and surprisingly maneuverable and controllable.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

8T Round Pin ‘80s concept design. ‘80s outline and foil. Low entry rocker and thicker up front. Best in 4- to 8-feet. Drivable in big waves.

The Mule

6’5” x 19 ½” x 2 5/8” Best in 4- to 10-foot surf. Great holding power, amazing maneuverability and loose, strong drive. Great in point breaks. ‘80s type foiled design with beak nose. Single fin or 2+ 1 setup.

6’8” x 20 ½” x 2 5/8” 2 + 1 fin setup For the bigger surfer. High-performance fun shape with maneuverability of a normal shortboard. Best in 2- to 6-feet surf. Great entry board for people going from longboard to shortboard.

Criss Craft


9’0” x 21 ½” x 3” This is the Matt Moore Pelican Shape design, handcrafted by John Hannibal. Mahogany wood, hollow construction and built to be surfed or a show piece. This is one board in a series of five, all with unique patterns and woods.

Suku was the name of the Chumash tribe inhabiting Rincon Point. This surfboard is a custom hand-shaped 10 ft. gun. It has two kinds of abalone inlay, genuine 22 karat gold leaf and the word Suku is real copper. The painting is oil, hand painted by Matt. It would look exquisite hanging in your living room. Inquire for pricing.

For MOBILE users: To see our entire lineup and full descriptions of our boards, please snap the QR code, thanks!

121 Santa Barbara St., Santa Barbara (805) 962-SUPS (7877) •




9’6” x 30.5 (32” width available) 150/165L Quad + 1 STOKE is the #1 all-rounder a true “one-board for most conditions.” Ladies and guys alike will enjoy this shape.

8’4" x 30" 8’6” x 31” 8’10” x 32" 9’2" x 32” Quad + 1 Designed for serious wave-riders who want to rip.

6-channel designs, custom-sizing, and “feather-light” construction are available. Hand-shaped and made in the USA by our shaper Art Colyer at North Pacific factory to your spec’s.

SUP Sports CARBON All of our production models now come in carbon construction! Lighter and stronger boards – easier to carry around, faster turns – very popular choice.

SUP Sports ONE WORLD 11’1”x30" 11’1”x32" 11’11”x31" 2 +1 Name says it all! One board that is used all over the world. Outstanding cruiser, and will surf waves without hesitation. All riders and abilities.

SUP Sports PADDLES World-Class carbon paddles, fixed-length and adjustable. We have been testing paddles since 2005 and have created some of the best choices in the market with factory-direct pricing.

SUP Sports MAHALO 10’3” x 29.5” (31” and 33” widths available) Quad + 1 or 2 + 1 Perfect for bigger guys and a refined wave-rider; great for beginners who want to surf, or ladies who want to flat-water paddle.

SUP Sports FINS Designed with decades of surfing and windsurfing knowledge, and engineered to enhance the SUP surfing experience. Bamboo inlaid with matching flex and rake to help shed sea grass and kelp!


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88 E. Thompson Blvd., Ventura • (805) 643-1062 • Customs Available


ROBERTS SURFBOARDS By Robert Weiner Black Punt

ROBERTS SURFBOARDS By Robert Weiner Mush Machine

5’10” x 18 ¾” x 2 ¼” We have taken our Punter model and given it a Black Diamond nose we also pushed the wide point up slightly and made some subtle changes to the rocker. This board has become a favorite with our team riders. Construction comes in pu/poly, EPS/Epoxy, Hydro flex natural, Hydro flex super charger, EPS InCide Epoxy, and RFT

5’5” x 19 7/8” x 2 ¼” We’ve taken our Diamond Fish lowered the rocker added a super wide squash tail and added a deep double with vee out the back. These changes have made this board super fast even in small surf. This board is a small wave performance machine. Construction comes in pu/ poly, EPS/Epoxy, Hydro flex natural, Hydro flex super charger, EPS InCide Epoxy, and RFT

WILLIAM DENNIS SURFBOARDS By Bill “Blinky” Hubina Quad Pro-Comp

WILLIAM DENNIS SURFBOARDS By Bill “Blinky” Hubina Mega Fish

9’0” x 22 ½” x 2 ¾” An all-around board. Turns, nose rides and is fast. Will surf anything and an excellent contest board. Like shortboarding a longboard. 7” swallow tail with double barrel and hook bottom. Dual foiled fin set ups, with 2 different fin designs available. Customs available (up to 10’).

9’1” x 22 ½” x 2 7/8” (shown) 9’3” x 23 ½” x 3” 9” and 11” tail widths available. FAST. Quick turns and more speed. Floats like a bigger board, turns like a short board. Three plug setup to adjust fins. Dual foiled fins with 3 different designs to choose from. Demo boards available. Once you try the Mega Fish you will want one!

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

CAMPBELL BROTHERS SURFBOARDS By Malcolm Campbell Bonzer 5 Mini Merk

CAMPBELL BROTHERS SURFBOARDS By Malcolm Campbell Mini Bonzer Light Vehicle

5’10’’ x 13’’ x 19 5/8’’ x 14 3/4’’ x 2 3/8’’

5’6’’ x 17 1/4’’ x 21 1/4’’ x 16 1/8’’ x 2 5/8’’



9’0” x 18” x 22” x 13 ¾” x 2 7/8” A very progressive design, with hidden tradition inside, maintaining true longboard characteristics. Speed and maneuverability, mixed with nose riding, and smooth power turns in heavy surf, have been the main idea with this design since it’s conception in 2001. Usually a 2+1, but also great as a single as well. Designed by Wayne, Puna Moller and Vince Felix.

9’9” x 23 ½ x 3 – 3 1/8” The mindset here is, tip riding and style surfing, with a pure and simple 60’s feeling! The tail is a wide crescent, the hips are back, and the deeply blended con caved nose is snubbed in a light curve to give the rider a perch. A design concept that, Wayne and Mike Ortega have been working on together for many years.





The Hipster

Fark Surfboard

Peke Surfboard

5’6” x 19 7/8” x 2 3/8”

5’9” x 20 1/8” x 2 7/16”

6’3” x 18 7/8” x 2 3/8”

Huevo Ranchero Surfboard

Stand out and be different, without trying to be different, while trying to stand out by being different. Ride “The Hipster” in all conditions 1-ft. slop to 8-ft. and punchy. Custom orders available.

Paddles easily and accelerates quickly. No nose-no swing weight for quick turns.

Designed for the better than average quick, snappy, back-footed surfer. A continuous rocker and deep, single concave. Full, soft rails are forgiving in critical maneuver situations.

6’6” x 20 5/8” x 2 1/2” Round tail, V bottom for smooth transitions. 2+1 fin setup allows for a very versatile travel board.

by Matt Sparks

Available at or (805) 231-6116

by Fletch

by Fletch

by Fletch

Available at Fletcher Chouinard Designs • 43 S. Olive Street, Ventura • (805) 641-9428 or


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by Jason Kline

by Shane Stoneman



Santos Al Sur

Rally Racer Step-Up

Flying Pig

6’3” x 18 5/8” x 2 ¼”

6’4” x 21” x 2 3/8”

This is a 6’2” x 18 5/8” x 2 ¼” step up version of

5’8” x 18 1/2” x 2” (This board was made for Kitesurfing) Traditional surfboard measurement example: 5’10” x 19 1/2” x 2 1/4 ” Best in beachbreaks and soft reef waves. If it gets really hollow, you might want to grab a “Shack Attracter” or “Pearl”, but otherwise the “Flying Pig” is a great all around performance board. Wider outline with slight hip to thumbnail squash with heavy concaves make this board super fast and responsive. So much speed it likes to fly! Especially when you are attached to a kite. Available at Panchos Surf Shop (Pismo Beach), Central Coast Surfboards (San Luis Obispo) (805) 441-5103

This is a retro style board meant to be surfed I first made this model for a trip down to Peru back in 2003. The one shown is a custom Epoxy with style and grace. Works best in smaller (EPS), ridden by David Logue. The rocker has a surf under head high and can be run as a gentle curve throughout with a lower entry rocker single fin, twin, 2+1 or quad. Flat bottom and narrower tail width and straighter curve contour up front with a deep vee in the tail. If astern. The result is an almond-shaped outline you’re looking for a board to mix up your halfway between pintail and roundpin, but wide quiver, this is another neat board to have that center point. Another great pointbreak board, best will last years with a solid glassjob. Agave for head high to double overhead. hacienda paint job optional! Available at • (805) 459-5834 We make custom surfboards for all surfing styles!

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

last year's Rally Racer round pin quad. Customers who traveled to Tavarua, Mex, and the Mentawai’s put this model through the paces this year. This particular board is made for the singer of the Central Coast punk band called Tall Cans. He is an eccentric weirdo but also a great surfer who appreciates a dependable good wave board that excels in overhead reef breaks and/or beach break barrel conditions. Life is short so have fun ... and surf fast. Available at Wavelengths (Morro Bay) and Moondoggies Surf Shops (Pismo Beach, San Luis Obispo).

by Gabriel Loyd






Squid Beak

Ugly Stick


5’4”to 6’4” (Customs available) This board has a single concave to slight vee off the tail with low entry rocker and added thickness forward for drive and airs. It has a little added width and pulled tail to keep curve in outline. Available at

5’8” x 19 ¾” x 2 3/16”

Standard sizes are 5’4” to 6’0” Board shown is 5’7” x 19 7/8” x 2 ½” Short, wide and thick. Yep, that pretty much sums up the new Ugly Stick. Designed to be ridden about 5” to 6” shorter than your height. The outline features an extra full shortboard curve combined with an extreme hip in front or the fins and a 7” tail block. With a low rocker profile throughout with a single/double concave, this little number is perfect for when the waves are small and not so pretty. So come get hit with the Ugly Stick… Your friends might pick on you but hey… at least your getting some! 

Standard sizes are 5’6”-6’6” Board shown is 6’2” x 19” x 2 7/16” Speed, control and forgiveness. What else could you ask for in an all-around board? The J7 Redline delivers just that plus a whole lot more! This board is designed to be ridden close to your height and offers a slightly fuller outline, a moderate rocker throughout and a single to double bottom contour. Fast out of the gates, quick to respond rail-to-rail and a gas pedal for total speed control! Check out the Redline if you are looking for that perfect board for a wide range of conditions!

by PJ Wahl

by Jeff Hull

Good in Knee to head high surf. Available at Ventura Surf Shop, Homegrown Surf Shop (Ventura), Revolution Surf Co. (Camarillo), and Surfin' West Surf Shop (Simi Valley)

by Jason Feist

by Jason Feist

Available at J7 Surfshop • 24 E. Mason St., Santa Barbara Customs Available.







Mini “S”


The Stubbiscuit

Quad, 2+1, twin+trailer. Five fin-box ideal set-up. 6’8” x 19 1/2” x 22¾” x 16 1/2” x 3” thick A mini-longboard for waist- to shoulder-high waves. This board is perfect for surfers who want longboard flow but with a smaller turning radius. Lip bashes and sneaker-fives are all well within this board’s repertoire. Order 2’-3’ shorter than normal longboard, same thicknes and width.

6’4” x 19 1/4” x 22 ¾”

7’4” x 22 ¾” x 2 ¾” A transitional hull. A great trimming board for all the point breaks around here. Catches and paddles great. Shaped by Ryan Lovelace Available at Iron and Resin (Ventura)

6’4” x 21 ¾” x 2 ¾” A very forgiving shortish board. Made for smaller days Shaped by Ryan Lovelace Available at Iron and Resin (Ventura)

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By Ray Lucke


By Ray Lucke

x 17 ¾” x 3” thick Twin fin or quad fin, glassed-on fins recommended. This board is perfect for surfers who want the paddle-ability and speed of a fish without the tracking. Good in waist- to shoulder-high waves. Order 4-6” shorter than normal shortboard, 3-4” wider and ¾” thicker. Shape length ranges from 5’ to 7’, with 5’4 to 6’0” most popular length.

Available at Esteem Surf Shop (Pismo Beach) and Backnine Surf Shop (Camarillo). We build and sell Lucke Surfboards. • (805) 732-4694 •     

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

by Raphael Wolfe

by Raphael Wolfe

GEAR & WETSUIT Coming NOV. 2012


The Perfect Gift Guide for Your Surfer



Gear & Wetsuit

backpacks • belts bike accessories board bags • booties cameras • camera housings stickers • deckpads drybags • electronics fins • flannels gloves • handplanes hats / beanies hoods • jackets jeans • leashes paddles • phone covers racks • rashguards sandals/shoes shirts • shorts / trunks skateboards • skis snowboards • sunglasses sweatshirts • swimming fins vests • watches wax • wetsuit cleaner FOR HER dresses • jewelry purses • swimsuits robes • and MORE!

WETSUITS GALORE! Our first annual Wetsuit Guide featured the latest styles from the top wetsuit manufacturers in the world. See what 2012 has to offer in our November issue!


To get your Gear & Wetsuits in the Guide email

Meet Your Central and South Coast Shapers...

Tyler Anderson

Marc Andreini

Joe Bauguess

Malcolm Campbell

I have been shaping and glassing for 13 years for my friends, myself and through word of mouth. The local point breaks have been serving as a great forum to test new shapes and designs. The Grunion has been my most popular model and is one of my favorites year round.

Born in San Mateo, raised from 6-years-old to 30 in Santa Barbara, Marc built his first board at age 14 and never stopped. He surfed for Owl Surfboards since 1962 and took up making the Owls in 1974 shortly after Jeff White went from boards to retail only. He started making his own label “Andreini Surfboards” in 1971. “I still shape every week. No machined blanks!”

Shaping since 1963, Baugess shaped the World’s first and original Mini-Simmons (short version of Bob Simmons board), designed and shaped from a shapeless block of styrofoam. The little board shook the foundations of modern surfing, and started a revolution in shorter, wider, thicker surfboards.

I began shaping in 1968. In 1970-71 my father, my brother Duncan, and I created the highly influential Bonzer. See bonzer5. com for details. I have signed PEACE on every board since 1973. Advocating for social, economic and environmental justice is of primary importance to Duncan and I. Keep surfing and ‘Be Mindful’.

Fletcher Chouinard

Art Colyer

Adam Davenport

Jason Feist

Bruce Fowler

We began in 1996 with a goal of making the strongest, lightest, hand shaped boards possible. “Causing no unnecessary harm” is our guiding principle, so by default each board minimizes the use of toxic and nonrenewable materials, and we build each board one at a time as if it were our own. FCD Surfoards.

Art Colyer has four decades of board shaping experience under his belt, including shaping stints with Gary McNabb (Nectar) building the original thruster with Simon Anderson, Donald Takayama (longboards), and Rusty (6 years). Art's North Pacific Surfboards label produces boards for surfing, kitesurfing, windsurfing, & towsurfing. His standup paddlesurfing shapes were developed in a collaborative effort with Wardog at StandUp Paddle Sports.

Surfing since the age of 8, and shaping since 2003, Davenport has been trained by Scott Anderson, Brian Hilbers, Tyler Hatzikian and Michael Geib. Leaning towards traditional longboards, his boards are a work of art and style.

Jason Feist began shaping surfboards in 1999. After about a year of carving out foam for himself and a few close friends, Feist started the J7 Surfboards label. It has been well over a decade now and through feedback from team riders and loyal customers alike, Jason strives to create the most progressive and high quality surfboards available.

Bruce is a prolific surfboard designer with over 42 years of shaping experience. His focus over the past several years has been dedicated to providing functional, easy to ride high performance surfboards that improve the skill set from beginning to advanced surfers. Boards available at Wave Front Surf Shop in Ventura, select dealers in N.Y., L.A., and S.F. Soon be expanding to Tokyo and Europe. Contact Bruce at or stokervmachine/facebook.

Russell Hoyte

Bill “Blinky” Hubina

Jeff Hull

Greg Iler

Dave Johnson

Russell Hoyte, in his 40’s has acquired a lifetime’s experience of surfboard building. From glassing shop owner to fulltime production sail/surfboard and SUP shaper for some of the biggest board building companies in the world, Russell has developed the skills and design attributes to create custom boards to suit most surfers and waves all over the world. He believes in personal customer relationship, attention to detail and excellence in his craft.

Blinky got involved with Tom Morey’s’ Australian Surfboards and Morey Surfboards in 1962. In 1963 he was Morey Pope’s first employee. In 1964 after the Morey Invitational Noseriding contest, Blinky and fellow employee Bill Delaney invented Slip Check, a wax substitute. Then, in 1967 Blinky & Dennis Ryder started the their own brand of surfboards calling it William Dennis Surfboards. Now, at almost 69 years old and 45 years of shaping, Blinky is still shaping the William Dennis surfboards.

Nine years ago Jeff began building boards in Ventura as a hobby. Later it was time to step it up and get a factory shared with other local board builders. Slowly growing a business, and three factories later, making surfboards has developed into a decided career. He works closely with the majority of Ventura and Santa Barbara’s shapers providing them with quality glasswork.

The first board I shaped was a beater in the early 70’s. The fiberglass came off like peeling an orange and the foam was fairly intact once I got beyond the damaged area. With a few scavenged handtools a 7’2” board emerged. Luckily, Haakenson Fiberglass salvaged my first attempt at glassing as I had lost a few brain cells mixing a hot batch in a shack with no respirator or ventilation.

Dave Johnson is the most accessible full time master shaper in the Santa Barbara area today. “Whether they are high performance contest surfers, recreational, or beginners I love talking to the customers to arrive at a perfect fit.” Custom boards are usually done in two weeks or less.

Jason Kline

John Lessing

Ryan Lovelace

Gabriel Loyd

Ray Lucke

Jason Kline has been making custom surfboards for Third World Surf Co. on the Central Coast  since 1999. Taylored to fit your style and local surf, pick anything from performance shortboards, to longboards, retros, and experimentals.  “We encourage surfers to try something new and to enjoy all corners of the surfing envelope!”

Doug Roth Surfboards began in Goleta, California in 1963 and were prevalent in local lineups throughout the 1960’s. The legacy is reborn with a new line of boards shaped by John Lessing that honor the Doug Roth name, his legend and the rich history of Goleta surfing.

Lovelace has been shaping experimental surf craft in Santa Barbara for about six years and travels to shape in Australia and Europe. It’s his close knit community in S.B. as well as the influences picked up around the world that provide a pool of inspiration and translate into a truly unique feel. 100% hand-shaped and glassed, each of his boards are truly hand-crafted. Function = Form.

Born and raised on the Central Coast, Loyd is a second-generation shaper. Learned everything from his father and took it and ran with it. He has 17 surfboard models, 5 kiteboard models and worked hard getting to where he is. “My business model is to do the best I can, and I care about EVERY customer. Thanks to all that support my efforts and support Loyd Surfboards.”

Ray Lucke shaped his first surfboard when he was in high school. My parents were nice enough to let me work inside their garage and get resin all over the floor. My first job was at Rick Surfboards in 1973 as a fin foiler. I also worked for other named shops like South Shore, Fibercraft, and Dewey weber.

Monarch Surfboards

Andreini Surfboards

Joe B. Surfshapes



FCD Surfboards

Hoyde Designs

Campbell Brothers Surfboards

North Pacific SUP

William Dennis Surfboards

Davenport Surfboards

Resist Surfboards

J7 Surfboards

Eclipse Surfboards

Progressive Surfboards


Third World Surf Co.


Doug Roth Surfboards

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

R. Lovelace Surf Craft

Loyd Surfboards

R. Lucke Designs

Al Merrick

Matt Moore

Sean O’Connor

John Perry

With over 45 years of shaping experience with brands like Infinity and Bruce Jones, McDonald is most known for the Bonzer 5-fin design. He left his home in San Clemente for the long, right-hand point breaks of Santa Barbara and has been here ever since.

C.I. was built from humble beginnings in 1969. Influenced by Dick Brewer, John Price and Bob McTavish. Shaun Tomson, Kim Mearig, Tom Curren, Kelly Slater, Lisa Andersen and Sofia Mulanovich rode his designs to multiple world titles. “Our mission is to make the best boards using feedback from the best surfers … leading us into the future.”

Matt Moore is a surfboard shaper who grew up in Carpinteria and started surfing in 1959. Out of necessity to explore function of surfboard designs and construction, flex, fins, fiberglass and foam are all phase’s that have formed the Matt Moore logo.  “I started taking custom orders in the late 60’s and have never stopped helping people make their surfing dreams come true.”

I was born and raised in Southern California, moved to the area to attend UCSB, and after serving six years in the Marine Corps, I decided to stay in Santa Barbara. I eventually met up and befriended Max MacDonald and the two of us teamed with Doug Yartz and started shaping boards for Revolution Hardware. to launch this fall.

I started Ocean Rhythms back in the ‘70s. Ocean Rhythms was really a blast back then, exploring a diverse board forum with several classic shapers under one roof. This is my second go round, after a hiatus and a career change as a water systems engineer. Now, known as JVP Surfboards, I surround myself with other passionate surfers continuing on the path of design and function, some recycled and some seemingly fresh.

Wayne Rich

Dennis Ryder

Randy Schaefer

Matt Sparks

Bill Stewart

Taking surfboard shaping and design to the highest possible level is something I take very seriously. To take the art and craft of creating real wave-riding foils with specific purpose and feel is a life goal. Working with people to formulate concepts, then develop and apply them to diverse styles of surfers and wave conditions throughout the world is a great challenge and never ending learning experience.

Dennis Ryder’s shaping career was birthed in 1967 when he did boards for the famed Ventura based Morey-Pope Co. Dennis and Bill Hubina founded William-Dennis Surfboards, and while living on Kauai he shaped for Hawaiian Blades and Dick Brewer. He has been transforming concept to reality for over 45 years. One of a rare few remaining master surfboard craftsmen in the sport who still ply their trade on a daily basis.

Surfing since 1965, designing the Orbicular Flyer in 2000 opened my eyes to what can be different in surfboard needs. Now designing SUP’s with Clyde Beatty, lots of good things will be coming this winter.

Matt Sparks is a lifelong surfer with over a decade of surfboard shaping experience. Matt has put in his time, gaining experience from custom orders as well as shaping for respected local companies. Whether it’s a high performance thruster, noserider, SUP, or anything in between, Mds Surfboards will take care of you.

For over four decades Bill Stewart has been creating one of a kind custom surfboards. In 1984, Stewart developed the Hydro Hull. That same year he invented the 2+1 tri-fin configuration. In 2011 Stewart further refined the Hydro Hull design to create the Redline 11.

Shane Stoneman

Gregg Tally

Max McDonald Surfboards

Channel Islands Surfboards

Wayne Rich Surfboards

Dennis Ryder Surfboards

Matt Moore Surfboards

Orbicular Surfboards

Revolution Hardware

JVP Surfboards

Mds Surfboards

Stewart Surfboards


Stoneman Surfboards

White Owl Surfboards

Shane grew up on a steady diet of competitive surfing and made his first board at 14. Now he surfs when its decent, shapes in a converted barn in Cayucos, has a fairly useless English degree from Cal Poly, and plays in his garden with his daughters. After shaping every day for a dozen years he still absolutely loves making surfboards for folks that like to have fun in the ocean.

Gregg Tally has been shaping the “old fashioned” way for 45 years. He hand shapes, glasses and builds his own fins. “I do in-house shaping the way Jeff White taught me.” White, of White Owl Surfboards, taught him “quality and integrity” and so Tally continues the White Owl label today.

Daniel Thomson

PJ Wahl

Tomo Surfboards

Wahl Surfboards

Tomo is a dedicated and inspired free surfer and surfboard designer. At 29 he is already being touted as a design guru with the arrival of his ultra modern performance planning concepts. Backed by a high level of surfing ability and mentoring from legendary surfers and designers Tomo appears to have a ‘sixth sense” for developing some of the most radical and unique performance surfboards.

PJ Wahl has been shaping surfboards on the Central Coast since 1968. Using his shaping & wave knowledge he is able to work with the surfer to make a custom board that works for them.

Wardog Wardog has over three decades of surfing product design experience. After collaborating with Sean Ordonez on Maui in 2005 to manufacture the world’s first production SUP’s, he opened, StandUp Paddle Sports, North America's first dedicated SUP retail store in Santa Barbara. His current collaboration with shaper, Art Colyer, has produced 15 world-class SUP models. He recently inked a global distribution deal with Focus Hawaii Surfboards and Body Glove SUP for his SUP board, fin, paddle, and accessory lines.


Max McDonald

Robert Weiner

Raphael Wolfe

Renny Yater

Robert Weiner started shaping Roberts Surfboards in 1996 with his main goal being to create high caliber, high quality surfboards that will push the envelope of our spots. Robert has grown from its roots in Ventura to become one of the most popular labels in Southern California. Japan and the East Coast. He recently won the 2011 Shaper of the Year award from Surfing Magazine.

Growing up in both Sydney and Santa Barbara, Raphael Wolfe is more of a woodworker than a shaper. He started Timberline Surfboards to make a wood board that is eco-friendly and as light as foam boards. Wolfe works with wellrespected shapers to make custom boards with their shapes in the Timberline method.

Growing up in the surf in Laguna Beach the 1940’swas the greatest. I made my first surfboard with fiberglass in the early 50’s and moved to Santa Barbara in 1959 and opened up shop on Anacapa Street. I never stopped making board since then.

Roberts Surfboards

Timberline Surfboards

Yater Surfboards




Water Women Love Their Sticks BY NICOLE DE LEON


Last month, I paddled out on an empty, junky day on the Central Coast, armed with my smallest shortboard, hoping I could casually catch a few and come in. It wasn’t until I rode the channel out 200 meters that I encountered solid, evil-looking sets and realized I was completely under-gunned on my 6’0”. I glanced back over my shoulder at the now very distant beach and reflected that although I felt like a relatively competent athlete I would not want to have to be swimming in these frigid conditions. Just as those thoughts hung in the air along with the patchy fog above me, the set of the day rolled in. Because the cold springtime winds had prevailed non-stop for two weeks prior, the sets came in short, ugly intervals. After making it over the first couple set waves, I got caught inside on the third one. My pathetic attempt at a duck dive left me flattened on my board, and I felt the tension in my leash release. Snaaaap! Immediately, my board was torn from my grip and cantered towards the shore. I was alone, swimming under a half dozen more set waves with cold water flushing down the neck of my suit. Needless to say, at that moment, even after almost 20 years of surfing, I realized how reliant I was on my surfboard. My favorite red Rusty wasn’t as lucky as me; I saw it being manhandled by the rocks on the inside. As I picked up my bruised board after eventually making it in, I reflected on how many days in my life I have been able to enjoy the waves with my various boards. Although I’d like to think that surfing


Demi laying it on a rail. DUBOCK.COM

is just me and the ocean’s raw unhindered energy at my feet, it is always humbling to recognize how dependent I am on my equipment. I wondered if my fellow surfers feel the same about their boards. Here’s what some local surfers had to say about their favorite sticks: DEEP: Have you ever had a favorite board break, or have you ever found yourself boardless in unfavorable conditions? Brooke Johnson (surfer and surfboard connoisseur): My dad passed away when I was 20 and had this beautiful G&S era Skip Frye single fin. Four years later, I was surfing the board, and I let it get away from me without a leash on the high tide, and it smashed against a cliff. It was totally buckled. It still hangs in my mom’s house, and I have to walk by it every time I visit her. Mary Osborne (pro surfer): No broken boards, but I had to surf a random board I found on the beach after my boards didn’t arrive during the World Championships in France! DEEP: What is your summer “go to” board and why? Osborne: Right now I have two summer boards. A Robert August Classic Noserider shaped by Mike Minchington that is 9’2” and a 5’6” FCD Fark. Both work great for summertime waves. The single fin is great for nose riding and point break south swells DEEP: What made/makes your shaper’s boards successful to you and who are your favorites? Johnson: Design… Innovation…. Dedication. Stan is just a straight up genius design guru! I have a lot of respect for the ones who do it all from start to finish. Pendo, Skip Frye, Steve Lis, Gephart, Rich Pavel, Zamora, Caro-Mandala, as well as Greenough, Simmons, and Blake. Their names say it all. Rochelle King (surfer, trainer, and mom): I love working with a shaper who includes me in the process. I don’t understand all the ins and outs of shaping, but working with someone who can translate what you are looking for into a functional board for you is important. Marc, Wayne, and Joe Bark have all done that for me over the years!

• Water Resistant with a Lifetime Warranty • Comfort fit and Extremely Light • Hawaiian Islands Engraved Inside • Eco-Friendly using only sustainably sourced woods • Handcrafted with Aloha A portion of every ring sale is donated to help ensure the sustainability of Hawaii’s forests.

814 State Street Downtown Santa Barbara (805) 957-9100 Open Daily 11am-6pm, Sun. 12-5pm, Closed Tuesday


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

DEEP: If you were leaving for Indo tomorrow, which boards would you bring? Demi Boelsterli (pro surfer): I would bring my J7 quiver that I have right now: 5’8” Redline for the smaller days, 5’10” Situation for the long rights, 6’0” OG rounded pin for the bigger clean days, and maybe a bigger step up, like a 6’10” or 7’0” just in case it was pumping. DEEP: We all have had one board that has earned the title of “magic." What is yours? Osborne: I have been working with Fletcher Chouinard to make an all around longboard that you can ride in bigger surf, small waves, something that turns and still noserides. Together, we came up with an 8’10” tri-fin that can do it all. It is Epoxy, so it floats really well even when surfing in small waves. It is the all around board for me!


Shawn Tracht on what he predicts "is the board that will be in every garage within 10-15 years!" BRENT LIEBERMAN



Mini Simmons

BY SHAWN TRACHT y prediction: In the next 10 to 15 years, everyone will have a Mini


Simmons floating around somewhere in their garage! This is no joke. Just like how now almost every house in every beach community has a longboard stashed somewhere around the property, the Mini Simmons is the next frontier. Do I have your attention? Now my experience thus far comes from surfing four different Mini Simmons; in fact I’ve ordered two recently from Ray Lucke. Longboards will always have a purpose in the quiver, but the Mini Simmons is the new household longboard replacement for anyone who wishes they were on a shorter board when a longboard is appropriate. It’s what I’ll teach my 4-year-old to surf on, and it’s a board for my wife to surf on a beach day at Refugio before we head south and I paddle out at Rincon.

Shaper’s Take: I met Shawn a year ago when he contacted me to build a surfboard and to do an article on Bob Simmons’ mini twin fin short board, circa mid 1940s. I had known of Simmons' contribution to surfing and surfboard design, but had never seen the mini model. After our initial discussion, we agreed that I should make a replica and write an article. After a week of researching all available information on Simmons, I realized that this eccentric genius was responsible for material innovations that changed surfboard design forever. As Greg Noll commented “...Simmons advanced surfboard design by at least 10 years.” Simmons’ innovations included reworking old redwood planks into shorter boards with 60/40 rails and adding nose kick by scarfing new wood onto the front end. He also employed aircraft building techniques by creating the first Styrofoam wood veneer composite surfboards which were far lighter than the heavy wood boards of the day. Interestingly many surfboards and SUP’s are built similarly to this today. As Shawn has stated, we found that our re-creation of the Simmons Mini resulted in a high performance surfboard 75 years later that is a relevant design by today’s standards. I feel a connection with Bob Simmons, who died surfing Windansea in 1954, which coincidentally was the year I was born. I didn’t realize what a profound influence Simmons had on the evolution of surfing and on all of the surfboard builders I worked for over the last 40 years. It was an eye-


opening experience being involved in this project and has renewed my stoke for the profession I have chosen.

Surfer’s Take: I asked Ray to shape us, the followers of DEEP Magazine, a Mini Simmons because of the hype that was circling around them in Southern California, especially in the San Diego area. He obliged, and I decided to take on the challenge of riding a surfboard that honestly, when you look at it and hold it in your hand, looks absolutely stupid and unridable. He did his research, spoke to his fellow confidants, and went into production on what I have I have come to find is a surfboard with the most consistent range of personalities I’ve maybe ever ridden. So how’s it ride? In lined up, down the line conditions, imagine fading a bottom turn, torquing back up to the curl, and then setting your toe-side rail for a perfect cheater-five nose ride for five seconds down the point. As the wave opens up, the Mini Simmons is to be ridden with Alex Knost-style, sort of a classic-contemporary flow where your feet are wide, yet your knees are bent and pressed together as you cascade down the face, fading towards the white water behind you, preparing for a bottom turn back towards the curl. Grab the rail baby! At the bottom of the trough, staring at the peeling lip, riding low, knees totally crouched, you grab the back, heel-side rail of your board behind you with your backhand, and rake the board with lighting smoothness towards the curl for a stylish ‘70s lip hit or a twin fin round house in the pocket. You come out of the turn with crescendoing speed, crouching low again, racing to the bottom. Then projecting back to the lip, you find your high line, stomp the tail, and then, like the best longboard nose rider on the beach, run back to the nose (well, you take a full step that is), and perch up again for a high-line nose ride down the rest of the point towards the closeout section. Looking for the beach break closeout ahead, you step back (maybe half a step), crouch and fade to the bottom, and then torque smoothly back up to the closeout lip for a full-board lip smacker attacker to finish off your ride. That is the Mini Simmons by Ray Lucke, be it 1 or 10 foot. And that is one of the best waves of your life—until you run up the beach, paddle out, and stroke into your next one. See many more photos at

R. LUCKE SURFBOARDS Shaper: Ray Lucke, R. Lucke Surfboards Board Shape/Design: Mini Simmons How to Order: Short and wide. Something in the 5’ range is best Board's Specialty: 1 – 2 foot overhead! Excels when there’s an open face Fins: Twin fin / Keel fin This Board is Perfect for: Beginners, and surfers who need a longboard but wish they were on a shorter board Surfboard Tester, Shawn Tracht’s Normal Shortboard: 5’10” x 18” x 2” Tracht Ordered this Board: 5’3” x 21 ¾” x 2 5/8” Shaper’s Contact info: Phone: (805) 732-4694 Facebook: Email: Surfers blog:





ventually it’s only natural for a surfer to reach a point where he/she feels the urge to shape his/her own surfboard. We all have access to droves of sticker-priced board designs today—likely more board choices than have ever been available to us surfers during the entire history of this sport—yet there is nothing that can supplant a self-made surf craft. Something indescribable occurs when, after personally carving then caressing the itchy foam, you carry that surfboard down to the local break, wax it up, and catch a few peelers on that maiden voyage. And, really, it does not much matter whether your new foam and fiberglass creation becomes Dane Reynolds’ next Channel Islands prototype or it more resembles the bride of Frankenweenie, shaping yourself a board is Get your hands simply a way we can all feel a tighter connection on some foam! to a culture we love, gain a more intimate relationship with why boards perform (or don’t) Now you, too, can shape in such manners, become better informed one like the pros. Scratchy surfboard buyers, and, surely, offer our shapers a old film frame of Rich Pavel. heavier dose of respect for what they perform. For decades, some professional surfboard shapers and glassers played their processes close to the vest—the saltiest members of the code staunchly refusing to reveal procedures or tricks for fear that leaking their trade secrets would result in more competition, less work, and ultimately, less income. With meaty market shares recently and presently being inhaled by Asian companies and other overseas surfboard manufacturers (making their pop-outs alongside so many other plastic, disposable toys), though, some surfboard purists have become outspoken about about sharing the previously clandestine art in hopes of educating a new generation of American board-builders as well as spreading stoke and aloha. A number of facilities offering open surfboard shaping sessions and lessons have laid out welcome mats and unlocked doors in the last couple of years, already. For a flat fee, now anyone can walk into a professional shaping bay space, lay a blank on the racks, grab a planer (plus other foam forming tools), and have a go at making the surfboard of one’s dreams. No longer are beginner shapers relegated to mom’s garage, and the once daunting task can now be explained, step-by-step, by experienced teachers (if desired). There are even college courses in surfboard shaping available (at campuses such as Cal Poly SLO) these days. “We are pulling the curtain back, showing magic tricks,” says Surf Country owner Doug Yartz of his shop’s open-to-the-public shaping space. “The mystery becomes tangible and pull-off-able.” Taking full advantage of this relatively new opportunity is a wide demographic of surfers — from kids and teens to military servicemen, from young professionals escaping the nine-to-five pattern to retirees hoping to check it off of their bucket list. Even traveling pro shapers who need a bay to shape in and some tools for a couple days can take advantage of these facilities. “All sorts of people come in,” says Yartz.


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

Ronald Lee, a savvy, 39-year-old surfer from Camarillo, recently had his first supervised shaping session while vacationing in San Diego with his family. “It is something I have always wanted to do, but I never had access to the correct space or the right tools before, and I didn’t really want to spend all that money on a planer and everything just to try it out in case I really didn’t like it,” laughs Lee. “But I called one of the spots in San Diego one day, and the next day I was in there, mowing foam, while the shop owner kept an eye on my lines and bumps. Now I just have to convince my wife that our garage is going to be my new shaping bay!” At most shops, the price to shape your own board is comparable to the cost of an average stock board, including a professional glass job. Some places, like Bird’s Surf Shed in San Diego, even offer a free shaping session with the purchase of a blank. Who knows, you might discover a real knack for creating magic boards. Remember: Every legendary shaper started out with that first board, too. Check with these local shaping facilities for more details: • •


Ryan Moore banking hard off the top just down the street from Lucky Llama.

Ryan Moore and the Lucky Llama STORY AND PHOTOS BY MICHAEL KEW


fter Caje and The Coffee Grinder both closed their doors, Carpinteria was without a homegrown place where locals and tourists alike could sip the roast, eat a fresh muffin, and read the latest Coastal View News. Last May, the husband-and-wife team of Ryan and Ashley Moore changed that. So on a recent Friday afternoon, DEEP sat down with Ryan for a little more insight on Carp’s newest hotspot.

their tax dollars going to our community, not giving it to some faceless corporation like Starbucks. We just want to be able to provide something different than what they do, and do it ourselves, by hand, the old-school way. Lucky Llama Coffeehouse is at 5100 Carpinteria Avenue in Carpinteria, behind Rincon Cycles, tel. (805) 684-8811.

DEEP: How did Lucky Llama come about? Ryan Moore: For several years, Ashley and I had talked about doing a coffeehouse, one reason being that there was no longer a locally owned coffee shop in Carpinteria. Her father owns the property here (at the Wardholme Torrey Pine), and we were throwing around ideas about what we could do with it. We knew that if we were to ever venture down that road, it would have to be the right place and the right time; location would be super important because Carp is a tough town to do anything in if it’s not done just right. It seems like the people who pull it off here just time it well. Last year, this building became available and, over dinner one night, Ashley’s father suggested we do a coffee shop here. We knew that this would be a great place for it, where we could kind of pick up what Island Brewing Company has going on the evenings: a warm community scene, a family-friendly place. We wanted to achieve something like that in the mornings and days, to have a local coffee scene in Carpinteria. DEEP: Why should people visit Lucky Llama? RM: We strive to sell everything organic and source items locally. Our coffee beans are from Green Star in Goleta. We also offer açaí bowls made with local fruits—though he açaí is imported from Brazil— and we have a large tea selection and a pastry selection that’s from Xanadu Bakery in Montecito. DEEP: What do you hope to achieve here? RM: Hopefully gain a ton of community support, because that is what is going to make a coffeehouse survive. The local scene is what we’re all about. I’m a third-generation Carpinterian, my wife has been here since she was 6 years old, my two kids were born here. I keep having to remind myself that we’re only a few months into this business, and it’s come a long way since we opened. I’d like to have more live music, longer hours. We’ve got some future plans; not to let the cat out of the bag, but we’d like to have a bit more of an evening scene happening here. DEEP: What’s the Lucky Llama bottom line? RM: Having a community-based coffeehouse where people can feel comfortable being here and enjoying themselves under the world’s largest Torrey pine. Having their money stay here in town and




Photography is a funny, unpredictable road. We as photographers never know where the next photo is going to lead to, but that’s part of the joy. Eleven years ago photographer Chris Owen was attending Brooks Institute of Photography. At that point, photography for Owen was merely a dream job.


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

“I had never really taken pictures at that point, but photography was my ‘if I could do anything what would I do?’ kind of job,” said Owen, who hails from New Mexico. Being what the financial particulars are at Brooks and the cost of living in Santa Barbara, Owens had to drop out of the photography program, but he kept shooting. He fell back on his desert roots and

God rays.

Lunchtime epic.

Blue moon Scotty.


Sunset Bacara pier.

searched out landscapes along the Santa Barbara coast. “I enjoy the winter months when weather is a factor,” he continued. “I do enjoy dramatic, emotional photographs.” To make ends meet, Owen has become adept at touching up other people’s photos, and he continues to work on his craft. No surprise here, his mom is his biggest supporter and critic. Owen says it’s a way to stay connected to her back home

Seven Falls salamander.

in the Southwest. “I want my images to leave the viewer with no doubt about what I thought was cool about that particular scene,” he said. “Hopefully one of these days I can concentrate all my attention on my own photography. It’s really all I think about.” To see more of Owen’s photography go to

Moon and sparrow.

Anchored for the storm.

Paddling out.


TRAVEL: Indian Ocean Pass

s g n u i i t w i o r l u a Fol M n o e n Fortu Offshore Mahébourg at dawn, with Ile de la Passe and Ile aux Fouquets in the distance.


arry was a large, wheezy Indian, fleshy-faced, 62, good-natured, with a murky accent. He seemed to like surfers and carried soft racks in the trunk of his brown Mercedes sedan. “Sometimes from the airport I drive surfers to hotels,” he said, strapping my board to the roof. “Usually to Tamarin, Le Morne, sometimes to Flic en Flac. But never in Mahébourg. You are first surfer I drive in Mahébourg.” He lived in the small town of Chemin Grenier, between Mahébourg and Baie du Cap. “It’s a good place. Quiet. Not so busy. My wife and me, we live peaceful.” Heading west, we drove past miles of sugarcane fields. “Is harvest time now,” Harry said, gesturing toward the tall green rows flanking the road. “Most of Effects of the 1974 film "Forgotten Island of Santosha" the cane is cut by hand, some by machine. I worked still resonate on the island today. in the cane fields when I was young.” I asked him where the cane was exported. “Europe. But today sugar has a very low price. The government also wants to make it into ethanol.” “Can you eat raw sugarcane?” “Yes, of course!” Immediately he stopped aside a field, exited the car, and ripped off a green, woody 18-inch piece. Then, while driving, he showed me how to eat it: “Bite it like this to take the bark off, then you bite and chew, like this.” He gnawed a chunk off, chewed it, then spat the wad out the window. He


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

Lucky backsider, Tamarin bay.


handed the cane to me, and I did the same. It tasted just like …. sugar, but crunchy and fibrous. “How long did you work in the fields?” “About 14 to 27. Thirteen years, in my younger time. Very hard, very hard. I never forget my bad time in my life. And the women did not like field workers. You get old very fast, eh? At 50 you look 60. Ten years more old. When I was 27, I look like I was 37. (laughs) People say I looked horrible. They say, ‘When you are awake, you look half died.’ At 27 years! Hands so rough, face rough, eyes burned with sun, skin cuts from cane and tools. So I did not marry until I was 33 years old. Is late for a Mauritian man to marry. I meet my wife, 27, and I 33. Good match, six years difference. I married her and got two daughters and one son. Now I live like a king compared to when I was field worker.” “What was the process?” “Cut and load. You fill the basket about four or five times a day. And then I get 20 rupees for pay. What is this—nothing? This for working seven or eight hours. Well, in this time, things were cheaper. Pound of rice was one rupee. But when I started taxi, first day I work for 150 rupees. Seven time more than the field work. Then, second day, I make 250-300 rupees, and it just go from there. For fuel, in 1975-’76, one gallon was six rupees and 10 cents. Gallon, eh? That is about four liters. Now one liter is 45 rupees. Every day I get full tank and I drive, drive. Local people, eh? People to work, to school, to

A jet ski would be useful to surf this massive slab at Gris Gris, which means "black magic."


TRAVEL: Indian Ocean Pass

cinema, to market. Sometime they miss bus, so I have to drive these people to the next village or town.” “How many Mauritians work in the cane fields?” “About half—50 percent in fields, 25 percent in government office, and 25 percent in hotels, or builders, building house. But before, it was nothing else but sugar and fishing. No hotels in this time. No tourists, nothing. We did not know about tourists.” Along the way Harry pointed out the various large hotels and luxury freehold villas being built, carrying names like Villas Valriche and Emerald Heights. “They are the new thing,” he said. “There are about 10 big projects happening now, all very expensive.” “Who buys them?” “Strangers. France, England, South Africa, some Germans. No Mauritians, really. I cannot live in places like these. These are high-class. I am low-class.” “Maybe some famous actors or rock stars will move here,” I said. He asked me if I had heard of Michael Jackson’s death two days prior. “Yes, I was on Rodrigues when it happened. Heart attack, eh? He was only 50.” “Very sad news,” Harry said. “People are crying in India!” At Macondé he left me on the side of the road, fronting the hollow, shallow left that was a 10-minute paddle offshore. Nobody was surfing. The waves looked to be about chest-high and clean. “My friend will come and get you in two hours, okay? I call him. Just stand here in two hours and he will take you back to Mahébourg.” “Lovely. Thank you.” I paid the fare and shook his hand, then he drove away, probably to his home in Chemin Grenier.


he waves were in fact chest-high and fairly consistent with the high tide offering a decent cushion over the sharp coral reef. The cool water felt good on my bug bites. Surfing backside, the punchy lefts were challenging, also quite fun, and it was sublime to surf a foreign wave alone at the edge of the Indian Ocean, wide open, with only the Kerguelen Islands between me and Antarctica. Later, at the agreed time, I was collected by a Dakshesh, a fat 46-year-old Indian who was a fifth-generation resident of Pointe aux Piments, a town in the island’s northwest. His ancestors had arrived as slaves to the British. He was friendly and chatty, spoke excellent English, and had driven taxis for 27 years. “Many people here have no work,” Dakshesh said. “Is global economic crisis, you see? But I thank gods every day. I lucky—very lucky.” It was Saturday, just before sundown, with lovely orangey-hued views, some rain squalls, but general clarity in the darkening sky. Trailing smelly, diesel fume-spewing trucks, we retraced the route to Mahébourg, across wide verdant spaces and through the cane fields and several small towns. Indians were everywhere—working in shops, walking or cycling on the road, idling in doorways, fishing from rocks, drinking beer beneath palm trees. I saw no tourists. Once back in Mahébourg, Dakshesh stopped for me to buy bottled water and a case of cold Phoenix beer; he then deposited me at my bungalow. “You come from California,” he said. “I know there is snow there.” “Only in the mountains. I live at the beach.” “I want to see a cold place. Maybe go to see the snow for one week, just to see what it is like. Is my dream.”


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

South coast reef pass wave, much bigger than it looks.

“My dream is to surf Tamarin Bay.” “You want go to Tamarin tomorrow?” He handed me his business card. “Call. I take you.” Hours later, after dinner and several beers, I clicked through television channels and found a “breaking news report” about a high-surf advisory, something about the waves at Flic en Flac— a beach near Tamarin—being “unusually high today” and that “such waves aren’t abnormal during the winter months.” Authorities had advised the public to avoid the ocean. This new swell was from a powerful anticyclone beneath Madagascar: four to five meters at 15-second intervals, heading straight to Tamarin. It was a nice predicament. Because tomorrow on Mauritius, like Dakshesh, I too would be lucky—very lucky. Tamarin.

Quadruple-overhead lefts are of no interest to the guests at this 5-star resort.

Creole cane-field worker.

Local fisherman wading out to his boat.





ith the economy awry and a high paying job nowhere in sight, Will Wicks of So What Surf ‘n’ Skate Shop decided to just go live the surf dream instead of saving up to do it another day. Wicks had seen the need for a core surf shop in Topanga, which is just south of Malibu, so he opened So What Surf Shop just six months ago with a vision and a dream. “You’ve got all these surfers coming down Topanga Canyon Road to surf all the spots in Malibu, but there is no surf shop in the area. I felt like the need was there and it was something I was passionate about, so I jumped in.” Able to serve a clientele from shredders to international travelers on their way to Malibu and Topanga Beach, Wicks’ shop allows him to live the surf lifestyle all day long, rather than just dreaming of it. “By far the coolest part is being able to choose all the product that I like to line the shop walls and small floor area with. Seeing customers come in and share the stoke for the product I’ve arrayed the shop with is rad. It’s a little mood shot of cool and gives me a stoke to know that I’m in the business that makes me happy,” said Wicks.

Will Wicks with some So What groms.

“It’s also cool to have a place where all the locals can call home. We service both the surf and skate communities, and it’s impressive to see how many local underground rippers there are once the shop opens the doors to showcase what they are doing.” When asked about the name of the shop, he smirked with a sense of free. “You know everything has become so corporate these days. I just wanted to get back to the old style of surf and skate where it was just like, ‘so what, who cares, I’ll do what I want when I want.’ Our whole motto is, ‘ride more, vibe less.’ Every surfer knows that the more water time they get, the better their mood, and, consequently, their life is. So What Surf is about good vibes and living the surf lifestyle that you want by just saying ‘so what’ to all the unimportant stuff; just go surf.” With a passion for stoke and the old freedom of the California surfer, Wicks is on his way back to the future, a place many of us seem to also be heading these days.


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

So What Surf n’ Skate Open 7 Days a Week, 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. 115 South Topanga Canyon Blvd., Topanga Tel: (310) 455-0101

BRANDS CARRIED: Body Glove, Prolite, Glassy, Zoggs, Sticky Bumps, FCS, Raw Elements, Zinka, Honey Skateboards, Penny Boards, Loaded, Morey, Redbull, DEEP, Bikinis, Indio Eight, Trinity Bands, True Ames, Ty Williams, DL Skateboards, Skater Made, Santa Cruz, Toy Machine, Girl, Think, Creature, Chocolate, Donald Brink, sandals, paddle boards, Livity and So What Surf.


Waterfi iPods




ot just a cool name to sport on your shirt or hat, but the shirts are super comfortable. The Burrito Surf snapback instantly went towards the top of our hat list as well. A clothing company that you will see in your local shops in no time. And if they aren’t, ask your local shop to get on it. Available at

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Mens OE Vaquero t-shirt. Super comfy and extremely soft material.



Burritosurf snap back hat. Available in navy blue or light gray.

Bedrack by Surf Solutions


Available at

edrack is a new concept truck rack that just hit the market. A safer, and convenient, way to carry your boards in your truck bed. No more boards bouncing or flying out of your truck. Keep your boards safe in the back of your truck with the surfboard lock—securely lock as many boards in as you can carry. The Bedrack installs in under 60 seconds with no permanent attachments. Made of 6061 aluminum, these racks are strong, lightweight, and come with a 6-month guarantee. They’re great for carrying surfboards, SUP’s, and kiteboards. You can also conveniently hang your wetsuit on the rack for quick drying after a session. An insane rack design concept.

aterproof iPods. Their time has come, and Waterfi is catching a monster wave with the world’s first waterproof iPod Nano and iPod Shuffle. It’s perfect forstand up paddling, kayaking and possibly a good mellow session. Uniquely engineered, all the electronic components in the devices are coated with a special waterproofing agent that protects them inside and out. Waterfi tells us this process ensures the iPods will not wear out or leak over time without “interfering with the functionality or style of the original products.” The Waterfi Waterproof iPod Nano has the most style and features of any waterproof mp3 player available including touch-screen design, longer battery life (up to 24 hours) and 8x more storage (16GB). The Waterfi Waterproof iPod Shuffle (2GB), pictured, combines stunning quality and simplicity to provide an amazing underwater listening experience. The Shuffle is only compatible with iTunes. Waterfi sells PYLE Waterproof Headphones on its website for $15. The package comes with three different sizes earbuds for the best individual fit. Once plugged in to the waterproof headphone jack, the sound quality is unbelievable in or out of the water. Waterfi iPods may also be used with other brands of waterproof headphones as well as regular earbuds. Available at

Santa Barbara Maritime Museum

113 Harbor Way, Suite 190 • (805) 962-8404 •

Lost Posters of Surf Artist Rick Sharp Thursday, September 20 Reception 6 – 7 pm Lecture 7 – 8:30 pm FREE


CallingPhotographers Juried Small Works Photo Exhibition Deadline – October 15 Visit for details & registration




Tall Ship Spirit of Dana Point Saturday, October 13 Dockside Tours 10 am – 4 pm Public Sail 5 – 6:30 pm

F i lms (check website for times) Daily Films Sir Francis Drake Above Santa Barbara Ghosts of the Abyss Sharks on Their Best Behavior Shackleton’s Antarctic Adventure Santa Barbara and the Sea

Surf Saturday Films The Big Swell Above Santa Barbara Bustin Down the Door Women and the Waves Innermost Limits of Pure Fun Santa Barbara and the Sea The Craving

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Surfers of Service

Sunrise tail throw by Cameron Rigby.


What makes a hero in the surfing community? Is it Slater, 11-time world champ? Why, yes it is. However, there is only one Slater. In a sport laden with so many great surfers, the question of becoming a hero can often become overshadowed by the pursuit of contest wins and sponsorship stickers stuck to one’s board. Heroism is defined in the dictionary as “great bravery,” and to me, a surfing hero is one who is not only a top surfer, like the Central Coast’s Tom Maloney, Steve Weir, and Cameron Rigby, but a surfing hero is also a hero out of the water: changing lives, protecting lives, and saving lives. Tom Maloney is a teacher, Steve Weir is a police detective, and Cameron Rigby is a fire fighter. All of these guys are top surfers in the water, and in my book, they are heroes on land.

TOM MALONEY: Changing Lives Tom Maloney is 52 years old and rips harder than most of my younger friends. A 37-year surfing vet, Tommy started and ran his own surf magazine called “Hot Water” back in the ’80s, has charged everything from piping Mexican barrels to the everyday groveling surf up and down our California


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

Coast, and still rides a 6’2 Robert’s thruster. Out of the water, Maloney has taught at continuation and community schools for 21 years, and for this, he has reached surf hero status. Becoming a hero doesn’t happen overnight, however, and sometimes your purpose in life is an accidental discovery. Maloney originally didn’t want to teach. However after his surf magazine didn’t make it, he decided to try the teaching profession for the idea of long summer and winter breaks. That said, his passion for teaching didn’t form until he came back after his first year and saw unmotivated students now motivated because of something he had said the year before. Maloney said, “It just gave me a total rush to know that something I said could actually make that much of a difference. It was awesome watching students who you wouldn’t have thought would ever have a chance to graduate and make something of themselves change so much, graduate, and walk across that stage to receive their diploma all because of something you said the year before.” When I asked Maloney about the profession of teaching and the impact it has had on his life, his job, and his surfing, Maloney sort of smirked and chuckled a little. “You know bro, this profession is great

because of the amount of time I have with my family, but also to surf. And conversely, my family and surfing is what always clears my head and helps me be a good teacher. Make no mistake, the job has the perks of lots of free time.”

STEVE WEIR: Protecting Lives Steve Weir is 43 years old, caught his first wave at 2, and is an absolute goal setter when it comes to his life. So when surfing became his passion, the only limits were the limits of his own will. That will never fell upon pro-surfing, but Weir never needed to go pro to succeed. As a great surfer and a community member, he set his goals to become a local sponsored surfer, and for many years now, he has represented Channel Islands Surfboards, Rip Curl, Dakine, and Pancho’s Surf Shop. Being a longtime athlete at the top of one’s game is a special attribute that comes from years of hard work, dedication, and a desire to be a champion of one’s own mind. In this, Weir has remained steadfast. That same passion that Weir has in the water can’t help but bleed into his work as a Police Detective Sergeant. This is what keeps the people on the Central Coast safe, and what I deem another example of surfer heroism. Being a police officer can be seen in many different lights, but Weir serves an important purpose. Bringing peace to the general public is a noble and difficult job, and to stand up for the good of mass society and keep the peace, I believe, is heroic. “As far as what I love about the job and what I’d say to kids and people out there potentially interested in the profession, if you’re looking for a job that’s challenging and always changing, a job where you’ll never know what’s going to happen from one moment to the next, then this is the perfect job for you. This job has also been good for me because of the schedule. I currently work four 10-hour shifts a week, and can generally surf four to six times a week the way my shifts are. Without that time to surf and wash off all the stressful happenings of the job, I definitely wouldn’t be as positive at work.”




CAMERON RIGBY: Saving Lives Cameron Rigby is 42 years old, has been surfing for 28 years, and is an absolute ripper in Pismo Beach. Though not a regular contest surfer, except in the Fire/Police Games, in which he made it to the semi-finals, he’s a stand-out goofy footer who surfs top to bottom with a high-lining speed that most guys his age can only dream of. However, as this story goes, his surfing isn’t what defines him as a local

Tom Maloney with some of his students.

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Surfers of Service surf hero, rather it’s his commitment to our community. Rigby put in long years of school and public service to achieve personal success as a firefighter. Now going on 16 years as a firefighter, Rigby originally lived the surfer dream, moving to Hawaii with his parents after high school. “Living in Hawaii was great, but seeing a bunch of the Haole guys like me speaking Pigeon, I knew I wanted more. I had goals that I wanted to reach. I moved back to California and started taking fire technology classes, went on some ride-a-longs, and learned a ton from the

Steve Weir hard at work.

Weir driving off the bottom.


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

Surfing is the ultimate outlet for Tom Maloney.

Photo: Jon Shafer



Surf reportS • Swell forecaStS • photoS • VideoS • profileS battalion chiefs. I knew after all that I was hooked, and moved to Pismo Beach in 1994 to start putting in my time with the local fire station.” “What I really love about the job is that it’s never the same and that I get to wear a lot of hats. I’m a construction worker, a cook, a paramedic, a firefighter, and more. I have a ton of energy and sitting behind a desk has always been out of the question. My schedule, two days on and four days off gives me a ton of time surf, which has been essential after the occasional tough situations on the job. Surfing is the place that helps me wash away the tougher parts of life that a person wouldn’t want to see.”

Cameron Rigby.



Epmov Creates and Supports Action BY PALEY MARTIN


This column features a group or individuals that are helping out in their communities and trying to make a change for the good of Mother Earth. It is brought to you by Komunity Project.

Katherine and Jason working the Epmov booth at the Santa Barbara Earthday.




pmov is an apparel and accessory brand structured upon an equal contribution, equal business model. The brand’s founders, Jason Lesh and Katherine Shepherd, have spent the past six years traveling to international disaster areas worldwide, self-funding small projects in Indonesia, and Karen villagers fleeing the the Burma Army by boat. developing community projects in their hometown of Carpinteria. As epmov’s social and environmental efforts have continued to gain momentum over the years, the of income for project funding. Each item fouders have developed a need for financial support to achieve long-term success. As opposed to seek- that epmov sells is designed to support ing out donors, epmov instead utilizes its brand appeal and creative design sense as its primary source a specific project and is based abstractly around a central point to the issue at hand. In order to be sustainable and integral to their long-term visions, Shepherd and Lesh have developed a 50/50 business model, which they are calling “equal contribution/equal business.” In other words, profits are split equally between the business and its projects. They say that this equality will be the guiding light for the epmov brand in the years to come. The Nias Children home being built by hand. In these beginning days of the brand, epmov is already busy with projects around the world; from helping develop a skatepark in its hometown of Carpinteria, to building a Children’s Home on Nias Island, epmov is expanding its presence across the globe. In addition to that, the brand is working with Sawyer Water Filters in Haiti to support clean water distribution, the Free Burma Rangers of Burma to supply medical equipment to its citizens, the Thai Freedom House in Thailand for refugee education efforts, and Channel Island Surfboards to continue developing the Sorake Beach Surf Club. In terms of community efforts, epmov is also working to provide dengue fever medication in Cambodia, generate jobs for the homeless in the Los Angeles textile district, and to arrange a mass Kitchen Hood Systems skateboard distribution in Oakland for this winter. Fire Suppression Systems What sets epmov apart from other for-profit companies is its emphasis on human-to-human Fire Pumps, Hoses, Nozzles interaction. There is not a single project supported by the company that the founders have not had on-location, hands-on experience with. Because of this, Lesh and Shepherd have grown to thoroughly Fire Sprinklers / Extinguishers believe in and trust wholeheartedly in each and every project with which they work. They want to Wildland Property Assessment spread the inspiration captured from their travels unto their customers so that every purchase made is a Fire Protection Gels, Foams, Paints conscious decision to support positive, creative action. Stay tuned for September 15 when epmov launches its brand website. Be one of the first to get one “Your Fire Protection Connection since 1978” of epmov’s limited tees, tanks, or a one-off from the company’s secret Thai bracelet designer. Whatever you decide, be the one to help epmov make some action. Visit and watch for its first film out this November.


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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012


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Navy to Kill 2,000 Whales and Dolphins BY KARA PETERSEN


or over 10 years, the Navy has been engaged in a battle of legislature to train and maintain sonar and sound defense systems. While the military arm insists these systems are crucial to our national security, they will also be a direct threat to marine mammal and other wildlife populations on both the East and West coasts. In applying for a permit from the National Marine Fisheries Service, the Navy had to complete an Environmental Impact Statement. Before the first Environmental Impact Statement was released in 2001 regarding the effects of the sonar equipment used in anti-submarine warfare, environmental protection and conservation groups were up in arms about the use of Low Frequency Active (LFA) sonar systems. In the Navy’s own estimates, if approved, LFA sonar will be used in 80 percent of the world’s oceans. In 2008 the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of California filed an injunction against the Department of the Navy based on the Marine Mammal Protection Act. The ruling of the court resulted in the Supplemental Draft EIS, which was recently released and provides disturbing details about the harm this project will do to marine life. The report was originally drafted in 2001, with additional supplements filed in 2007 and the latest supplemental report, released in June of this year, states that the


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

Marine mammals like these common dolphins and orcas are in imminent danger. CHUCK GRAHAM

Navy will kill almost 2,000 whales and dolphins and deafen another 16,000 over the next five years. The Navy argues that Surveillance Towed Array Sensor System (SURTASS) Low Frequency Active (LFA) sonar systems are a necessary part of the arsenal of defense and downplays the impact LFA systems will have on marine mammals. However, in a public statement to the Navy, NMFS and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, the Biodiversity Legal Foundation’s 2002 statement paints a very clear and disturbing image of the plethora of impacts of LFA sonar on marine mammals. “The possible effects could include: death from lung hemorrhage or other tissue trauma; temporary or permanent hearing loss or impairment; disruption of feeding, breeding, nursing, acoustic communication and sensing, or other vital behavior annoyance and subsequent abandonment or avoidance of traditional feeding, breeding, or other biologically important habits; psychological and physiological stress, making animals more vulnerable to disease, parasites and predation; and changes in the distribution, abundance, or productivity of important marine mammal prey species and subsequent decreases in both individual marine mammal survival and productivity and in population size and productivity.” With two of the eight Channel Islands owned by the Navy and used for missile testing amongst other things, many of which are classified, the sonar system poses a serious threat to local whale and dolphin populations. Unfortunately, the EIS does not provide clear explanations of where the LFA sonar will be deployed, and cites the Pacific, Atlantic and Indian Oceans as well as the Mediterranean Sea for possible locations. It is hard to know exactly where these projects will be taking place. But, considering the migratory habits of whales, and the Navy’s own admission that LFA sonar will be used in 80 percent of the world’s oceans it’s easy to imagine that this impact will be extremely disruptive to whale and other marine mammal populations. In the worst case, thousands of whales and dolphins will be killed and deafened. Because whales and dolphins use sonar to navigate and communicate while traveling through our waters, this provides an additional threat to the way of life for the animals that do survive the trauma. The EIS report lists auditory masking as another threat to marine mammals. The impacts of the sonar are such that it interferes with the animals’ ability to hear relevant sounds. Animals may not be able to hear sounds that will lead them to food or help them steer clear of prey. The report states that there is not sufficient data to estimate the threat LFA poses to other marine life such as sharks, fish or sea turtles. The Navy also cites disturbances to commercial and recreational fishing as well as oceanographic research and recreation. In recent decades great strides have been made to save and restore whale populations. Many of these animals are still on endangered lists and are engaged in a daily battle for the survival of their species. While people around the world are working to save these species from threats like ocean pollution and commercial ship strikes, our own government is eager to add a new threat.

Where is Your Surfboard’s Heart? STORY AND PHOTOS BY DEREK DODDS

Crooked Blanks owner Mark Cruickshank.


hat is a surfboard blank? blank is perhaps the most important part of a surfboard and yet it is the least talked about component in surfing. If a blank were a human it would be the heart, as it is the core of a surfboard. If you were an artist, the blank would be your canvas. It is the very thing that inspires shapers to create—a shaper's muse. A blank is a magical sculpture, it is an art piece that can be ridden in the green-blue playground we so cherish. Some surfers have never seen a blank, and yet it is the very essence of why and how surfboards exist. A surfboard blank is the unforgotten element underneath the wax, paint, and glass. Most blanks are made from either polystyrene (eps) or its cheaper and more popular cousin polyurethane (PU). PU is the industry standard because it is less expensive, easy to work with and board builders can glass it with either polyester or epoxy resin. Clark Foam ran the market on surfboard blanks up to 2005 with their popular molds and mysterious formula for its non-environmental polyurethane blanks—which was part of the reason it was closed. Many blank manufacturers have moved over the border where environmental standards are more, well, lenient. What’s good for your wallet may not be good for the environment—that’s an important lesson to remember. Unfortunately, to make these blanks the manufacturer has to use a amalgam of nasty toxic chemicals. In the case of PU, two chemicals are used, polyols and toluene diisocyanate (TDI). TDI is the real monster in this chemical cocktail. It is extremely toxic to humans and short-term exposure affects the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and central nervous systems. Long-term exposure can lead to lung ailments, asthma-like reactions characterized by wheezing, dyspnea, and bronchial constriction. TDI is even a probable carcinogen. By the time the blank arrives to the shaper, the polyurethane is mostly an inert material and luckily most of the chemicals used to manufacture the blank are nonexistent in the shaper’s workshop. However, the ecological trail left behind from each foam blank is devastating ugly. It seems that if you want a surfboard you’ll have to be an accomplice to the foam’s gnarliness. Actually, you don’t. We live in interesting times when people are challenging the way surfers think, ride and shape. Enter Crooked Blanks. Crooked Blanks is using a hammer, sustainable wood, a saw, and some technical knowledge to make sure that you have an alternative to foam blanks. We caught up with Crooked Blanks owner Mark Cruickshank while in NYC. It was the classic non-surf interview meet-up. He drove down from his enclave in the great Northeast to meet me in NYC. My first vision of Cruickshank was him dragging a wheeled board bag through Central Park so he could show me his sick wooden sleds. Crooked Blanks are hollow wood surfboard blanks ready to be shaped. The core of the wood blank is 100 percent paulownia (this is the wood most Alaia shapers use, it is light and easy to work with). They are specifically designed to be shaped using the same tools as shaping a foam surfboard blank. They are lightweight and made from environmentally friendly and sustainable materials. The blanks come with the rocker already shaped in, and the decks are domed slightly, just like a foam blank. Along with the desired rocker, the shaper must send Crooked Blanks a profile of the rails using a free program called AKU Shaper. The rail outline is shaped into the blank by Cruickshank as well. Once you get your blank, the top and bottom deck are applied inside a vacuum bag. Throw on a light glass coat and you are ready to rock. If you’re a shaper I hope you’ll consider using one of these blanks in your next creation, and if you’re a rider then please consider asking your shaper about the various eco blank possibilities in the market. Lots of small changes by all of us will lead to shifts that will positively influence how we surf and live.

The two, surfing and life, are so intimately intertwined for most of us, and each deserves great care. For more information on Crooked Blanks check out I’d love to hear your comments and feedback. For more information on ecology, surfing, and stoke please write to or look for him on a Mini Simmons around Ventura county beaches.


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Keith Malloy is constantly testing new boards and experiences in the water. Here he speeds down the line on his alaia in Nicaragua. . PHOTO BY CHRIS BURKARD


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Final Frame II

Brought to you by Endless Summer Bar & Grill Dane plowing his way down the point. PHOTO BY PAUL GREENE


DEEP SURF MAGAZINE September/October 2012

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DEEP Surf Magazine—bv7, Issue 5_September/October 2012 Board Buyers Guide Issue  

Annual Board Buyers Guide. 2012.

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