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POCKET GUIDE

BUENOS AIRES BARRIO NORTE • SAN TELMO • PUERTO MADERO • RECOLETA LA BOCA • LAS CAÑITAS • MONSERRAT • PALERMO VIEJO PALERMO HOLLYWOOD • BELGRANO • COSTANERA


Buenos Aires Pocket Guide Copyright © 2012 / de Dios Editores Copyright © 2012 / DAK Buenos Aires / Argentina Publishing Director: Julián de Dios. Edition: María Virginia Salazar. Journalistic Research: Gabriel Magda, Pilar Mira y Ernestina Cáceres. Layout: Sebastián Sánchez Iriarte. Translator: Georgina Mithieux. Cartography: Taken from the Buenos Aires Map Guide, published by de Dios Editores (ISBN 978-987-1551-26-2) Photographs: Julián de Dios, Mara Miura. Fotolia: Benjamin Cabassot, Gianpaolo Pagano M., Rrruss, Holger Mette. Shutterstock: Analia Valeria Urani.

Editorial Policy: Following our editorial policies since 1993, the selection of the places and opinions published here expresses the journalistic and independent criteria of de Dios Editores team, and does not represent any company, product, brand or industry.

E D I T O R E S

Editorial Board Julián de Dios Carla D’Elia de Dios Editores Tacuarí 131 - Primer piso “B” (1071) Buenos Aires - Argentina Tel. (54-11) 4334-0235 / 4342-0029 info@dediosonline.com www.dediosonline.com Buenos Aires Pocket Guide ISBN 978-987-1551-46-0 First printing - March 2012 Printed in Buenos Aires - Argentina Printed in Latingráfica. Special Sales: For special copies, translations or licenses, contact: ventascorporativas@dediosonline.com Reserved Rights: The deposit provided for by Act 11,723 has been made. Dirección Nacional del Derecho de Autor, file number 450319. The total or partial reproduction of the material in this publication is forbidden. The editor is not responsible for errors or omissions of information, or for its consequences.

de Dios, Julián Pocket guide Buenos Aires. - 1a ed. - C.A.B.A. : De Dios Editores, 2012. 120 p. ; 16x11 cm. ISBN 978-987-1551-46-0 1. Turismo. 2. Buenos Aires. 3. Guías de Viajes. I. Título CDD 338.479 1


INDEX

BUENOS AIRES INTRODUCTION 4 DISTRICTS 18 TWO-DAY TRIP

44

ATTRACTIONS 54 RESTAURANTS 68 NIGHTLIFE 76 SHOPPING 84 LODGING 96 MAPS 106

Topics

Design 24 D5

Number in the map Coordinates Colour of the topic

Attractions Restaurants Nightlife Shopping Accommodation

Prices $ economic $$ moderate $$$ intermediate $$$$ expensive


4

INTRODUCTION Núñez

Palermo Recoleta Paternal

Retiro Puerto Madero Floresta Constitución Caballito Boca Flores Barracas Ciudadela Nueva Pompeya Villa Devoto

lata

Villa del Parque

Río

Aeroparque Jorge Newbery

Belgrano

P la de

Caseros (Tres de Febrero)

Ave nida Circ unv alac ión Gral . Pa z

General San Martín

Villa Real

Avellaneda

chu

Ria

Villa Lugano

elo

BUENOS AIRES

Morón

Lanús

San Justo

Avenida C

ircunvalac

ión Gral.

Paz

Quilmes Lomas de Zamora Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini (Ezeiza)

Monte Grande

Almirante Brown

Location. The city of Buenos Aires is located in the Central Eastern part of the country and lies on the Western shores of the Río de la Plata. You can arrive by plane from various cities in the world directly to the Aeropuerto Internacional de Ezeiza (international airport), situated on the outskirts of the city, 45 minutes away from the city center. In addition, the Aeroparque Jorge Newbery in Costanera Norte has domestic flights and, for a while already, it has also operated flights from neighboring countries.


INTRODUCTION

Covering an area of 202 square kilometers, Buenos Aires, capital of the Argentine Republic, is the largest city in the country and one of the most important ones in South America. Nearly 500 years have gone by since the Spanish visionary Pedro de Mendoza founded the city naming her Ciudad de Nuestra Señora del Buen Ayre (“City of Our Lady of the Fair Winds”). Many years later, in 1580, Juan de Garay celebrated the final foundation. Halfway through the 18th century, barely 20,000 people inhabited the city; nowadays, the total population approximates the 3 million inhabitants. The “Reina del Plata” (Queen of the Río de la Plata) earned her nickname because of the cultural diversity passed on by the European immigrants that arrived from all over the world at the end of the 19th century and early 20th, searching for opportunities to forge their future. Her character is a fusion between the melancholia of tango, the shrewdness of football, the elegance of the French architecture in Alvear avenue, the Italian flavors from La Boca, the Spanish traditions in Avenida de Mayo, the height of the towers in Puerto Madero, the low houses in Barracas, Palermo’s nightlife and the sunny days in Parque Tres de Febrero (park). The result of this fusion is the most European city in Latin America, combining Italian buildings, French parks and Spanish manors with a porteño tinge, plus a growing modernity that turn Buenos Aires into a unique touristic destination. HISTORICAL FACTS

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First foundation. Pedro de Mendoza founded the city for the first time in 1536. Second foundation. In June 1580, Juan de Garay celebrated the final foundation. May 25th, 1810. The May Revolution takes place, initial trigger towards Independence. First Presidency. Bernardino Rivadavia assumes office in Buenos Aires in 1826. August, 1812. The national flag was raised for the first time where the Obelisco is today.

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DISTRICTS

LA BOCA Pedro de Mendoza anchored in this part of the city in 1536, without knowing that in that same place, centuries later, one of the most historic districts of the city would be built. In the vicinities of the old port, in Vuelta de Rocha, begins the district of La Boca, where thousands of European immigrants arrived at the end of the 19th century and early 20th. Just nearby, the impressive stadium of Boca, club that’s in the heart of “half plus one” of the Argentines, according to the popular saying, the same stadium where Diego Maradona worked his magic moves. But this district is also artistic; art lives in each wall down the streets, like Caminito, where the boquense painter Benito Quinquela Martín left his mark in the sheet metal and wooden houses. Nowadays, this picturesque street is a must site for anybody visiting the area. Canteens, streets and museums, like Fundación Proa, are part of the landscape of this typical porteño district. LA BOCA MUST SITES

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Boca Jrs. stadium. It was inaugurated in 1940 and it is known as La Bombonera. It has a mural made by Quinquela Martín. Brandsen 805. Puente Transbordador. This bridge is a symbol and one of the oldest bridges in the city. It was built in 1914. Av. P. de Mendoza and A. Brown. Fundación Proa. An art centre dedicated to the research and promotion of contemporary art. Av. P. de Mendoza 1929. Museo Quinquela Martín. The painter donated his house, where his museum, a school and a theatre run now. Av. P. de Mendoza 1835. La Perla. It used to be a brothel and nowadays it’s a café. It’s located in one of the main corners in the district. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1899.

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8

SHOPPING

1 ABASTO SHOPPING M2 The Abasto neighbourhood came back to life when this shopping mall opened its doors in 1998. There are more than 186 stores spread around its four storeys, a food court, games for children and cinemas, apart from the Museo de los Niños. Av. Corrientes and Agüero. 4959-3400. www.abasto-shopping.com.ar 2 ALTO PALERMO SHOPPING M5 A great shopping center with more than 150 stores of national and international trademarks. It also has cinemas, entertainment for kids and a huge food court. Av. Santa Fe and Av. Coronel Díaz. 5777-8000. www.altopalermo.com.ar 3 ARANDU M4 It’s a traditional, first-quality saddlery shop that offers their own hand-crafted products for equestrian sports and for countrymen. Polo boots, jackets, mates, hats and shoes, among other items, all crafted with authentic leather, alpaca and cotton. Paraguay 1257. 4816-6191. www.arandu.com.ar 4 AUX CHARPENTIERS M1 One of the oldest clothing stores in Buenos Aires. It's a secret kept among the Argentine ranchers and landowners, as it has been offering clothes for country men and women since 1898: pants and shirts. México 1302. 5 AVENIDA ALVEAR M5 Exclusive trademarks are concentrated in just a few blocks: Hermès, Cartier, Ralph Lauren and Louis Vuitton, together with outstanding national brands, like La Martina and Cardon. Old mansions give the area a “Parisian spirit”. The landscape is completed with luxury hotels. Av. Alvear, from Schaffino up to Libertad. Sales. At the end of January and July, the seasonal sales begin, with discounts up to 40% off their price list.


SHOPPING

6 AVENIDA SANTA FE M4 European chains, jewellery, perfume, saddlery and sports shops. In Galería Bond Street teeenagers tend to hang out; there are also many tattoo shops here. The Galería 5ª Avenida has many vintage clothing stores. Av. Santa Fe, from Libertad up to Ayacucho. 7 BARBIE STORE M5 Totally dedicated for girls: a thousand dolls to play with, costumes, a hairdresser's, a café... Scalabrini Ortiz 3170. 4803-4404. 8 BUENOS AIRES DESIGN M5 Defined by its stores dedicated to selling decoration objects and to the comprehensive interior decoration and furnishing, in this mall you can find high-quality and value-added products. It has two storeys and a terrace. Av. Pueyrredón 2501. 5777-6000. 9 CALLE DEFENSA M4 Surrounding Plaza Dorrego there are many antique shops with collection pieces. The prices vary according to how old the objects are. Some stores: Gil, Cándido Silva and Ariel Kullock. Defensa, between Av. San Juan and Estados Unidos. FERIA PLAZA FRANCIA

Every weekend, Plaza Francia receives hundres of people that share handcrafts and clothes in stands displayed on the lawn. A ritual that goes on every Sunday is the presence of young people who sit in circles to have some mate and listen to popular music bands that play in the park. Plaza Francia, Av. del Libertador and Av. Pueyrredón.

9


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POCKET GUIDE BUENOS AIRES DISTRICTS An overview of each district in the city, from the 100-year old streets in San Telmo or the harbor in La Boca, to the elegant Recoleta and Belgrano, with its mandatory spots. LODGING Accommodation to suit every pocket. High-class hotels, boutique hotels and family hotels, as well as hostels. USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency numbers and how to get around town.

E D I T O R E S

info@dediosonline.com www.dediosonline.com Buenos Aires - Argentina

ATTRACTIONS Main trips: Avenida de Mayo, the MALBA, Caminito, Palermo... GASTRONOMY Restaurants of all categories, with a wide array of offers. Hole-in-the-wall restaurants, bistrot and traditional places. EVENTS A calendar with the events of the year. NIGHTLIFE Bars and lounges, discos, pubs, theatres and milongas.

SHOPPING Shopping areas, avenues with elegant stores and others with more affordable ones, malls and outlets. TWO-DAY TRIP A detailed agenda of a two-day trip to really enjoy the city of Buenos Aires. MAPS A complete map of Buenos Aires with the exact location of all the attractions.

Founded in 1993, de Dios Editores is the first Argentine editorial specialized in travel guides. Since then, we have edited more than 100 titles, highlighted among them the guides of New York, Miami, Paris, Egypt, Buenos Aires, Patagonia and Madrid, among other destinies.

POCKET GUIDE BUENOS AIRES ISBN: 978-987-1551-46-0

Cover photography: House in La Boca © Julián de Dios

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