editors in chief L + V art & fashion director laura firefly editorial director vlad andrei gherman
hair stylist make up artists
andrei budescu eva domijan alexandra tincu irina hentea ancuta sarca diana flore
dan stoica flavia silaghi deea balgaradean lidia gligor amalia bot
special thanks to vlad sulea, diana flore, em iova, raul tisa, bulevard studio, iulia marinescu, vlad borlea, alexandru schiau, mra models, loli land, gianina carbunariu, marius lobontiu
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NEXT LEVEL EVERYTHING WAS I SUPPOSED TO SAY NO? MARINA PRESSED THE BUTTON. IT TOOK A SILENT WEEK BUT THE BALLERINA’S LEGS WENT ON THE CEILING. OH WHAT A CEILING. LOOK AT US NOW, WE’RE GETTIN’ MATTE PAPER. SOPHISTICATED. FUCK IT I WANT A TRILLION STICKY NOTES. MY FIRST KNIT IS BETTER THAN YOUR LAST KNIT. MY WORST STITCH IS BETTER THAN YOUR BEST STITCH. CHEAP CANDY OVER FANCY MAKEUP. BURN AND FOLD, BURN AND TWIST. GRANDMA‘S HANDME-DOWNS.THEN IT WENT PRIMAL. THEN THERE WAS A FAILED UTOPIA. THEN ICECREAM AND A SEASHELL RING. BLING, BITCHES AND BEATS. COLLODION OVER GLASS IN THE BACK, BUNNY EARS IN THE FRONT. THEN THE BACKSTAGE CREW STEPPED IN TO THE LIMELIGHT DURING THE NIGHT. COUTURE LEVEL. FASHION TODAY. ART TOMORROW.
a community or society undesirable and frightening. the opposite of a utopia. dehumanization, cataclysmic decline in society, collapse, repression, opression.
// CONCEPT & PHOTOGRAPHY // VLAD ANDREI GHERMAN // A PORTRAIT OF LAURA FIREFLY
Myths about the fashion industry
“Fashion week is so much fun!” Mostly, it’s exhausting. The Spring 2014 New York Fashion Week had 89 brands on the official schedule – that’s 11 shows per day not including dozens of shows at unofficial venues. Journalists and photographers have to file copy immediately after the show while rushing to the next one they’re already late for. Sleeping hours are few and far between. Even if you skip London, it’s a lot of travel for three weeks. There have been calls to shorten fashion weeks because it’s inconvenient for those who attend them to be away two months a year. For me, what made it all worth it in the end were the shows that surprised with beauty, innovation or technique. But most shows are not like that.
You’ll get a job after doing (unpaid) internships. Once upon a time, the point of doing unpaid internships was that they paid off. If you did well, you got hired or your boss wrote you a stellar recommendation that led to a job at another company. This is is now ancient history. Why? Companies no longer need to hire anyone. Internships are like jobs: for every young intern ending their placement, there are dozens of people available to replace them, hoping to get a foot in the door with the internship – even if they don’t earn a penny. This is particularly widespread in fashion media and PR where most internships only require basic office skills, so it’s not like companies have spent months training the intern and will suffer a huge loss when the intern leaves. (FYI, in most countries unpaid internships are illegal, but everyone turns a blind eye to this because how else will you get experience?)
You must be in Paris, London, New York or Milan to have a career in fashion. These cities are as oversaturated as the fashion blogosphere.
They’re still the best to gain industry experience, but getting paid work is a whole different matter. Can’t do this project for free? There are 200 people who will. I’m curious to see whether this will eventually cause a shift to second-tier fashion cities where unpaid labour isn’t the norm and apartment rents are less heartwrenching.
Fashion is art. It can be art, but 99% of it is business. Fashion brands are now producing eight or more collections per year (Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer ready-to-wear and haute couture, Resort, Pre-Autumn, menswear, capsule collections, collaborations …), pushing consumers to get their hands on the latest “it” expensive new thing in the name of profit. With this corporate dictatorship taking a toll on today’s most talented designers (former Balenciaga creative director Nicolas Ghesquière has complained that working for the brand had “sucked [him] dry” in an interview, earning a lawsuit from Balenciaga), I’m surprised they’re still able to design complex and meaningful collections at all.
Print is dying, fashion is moving online. The fashion industry is currently floating in a strange transitional place between print and online. The latest figures published by the British Audit Bureau of Circulations reveal that women’s glossy magazines are tanking, but advertisers still invest millions in print publications rather than online. As a result, many digital platforms are hemorrhaging money despite attracting more readers than magazines. The truth is that print is associated with prestige – even brands that started online are now launching magazines. By Eva Domijan
never be same level always be next level
// PHOTOGRAPHY // VLAD ANDREI GHERMAN // COLLAGE & STYLING // LAURA FIREFLY //MODEL // VICTOR ALMAS
ALL CLOTHING BY OUTWEAR.RO
// PHOTOGRAPHY // ANDREI BUDESCU // A PORTRAIT OF LAURA FIREFLY
I N T E RV I E W / / G e a n i n a C a r b u n a r i u / / t h e a t e r d i r e c t o r
DECAY : What is keeping you busy these days?
what actually happened behind closed doors and we’re still being taken by surprise every now and again by I’m working on a production by DramAcum together new information coming up. with the Odeon Theater and a festival from Slovakia. About two years ago I did a show about communist D: Has anything surprised you when you were dosecret services files and the people behind this festi- ing research for this show? val picked up on it because they were doing something quite similar with six ex-communist countries. I was eleven when the Romanian Revolution happened We’re basically artists from Poland, Germany, Hun- and I can now see the bigger picture on my childhood gary, Czech Republic, Slovakia and Romania and years. Some dissidence cases I didn’t know about also we’re each doing a piece roughly around communist caught my attention. The cliché that we didn’t have political dissidents is ridiculous if you look through the political repression and the secret services. Security’s files. There were a lot of people trying to do D: The Romanian “new wave” of cinematogra- something, but they didn’t step into the limelight after phy was inspired quite a lot by the communist ‘89. heritage, do you think it’s the same, or could be For example, my show is about an incredible kid from the same for theater? Botosani. He was about sixteen in ‘81 when he started It’s a popular theme, but I definitely don’t feel that writing stuff like “We want freedom”, “We are tired too much is being done at the moment. I feel it’s an of injustices being done in this country” and “Free the unfinished business somehow, and the deeper you worker’s unions” on buildings. They caught him and dive into it the more you feel that not enough has he underwent heavy surveillance, everything is there in been done on it. We don’t quite have a clear view on the file.
D: Is this documentary theater? I don’t do documentary theater; for example in “XY” I had 10 pages from a transcript, a phone-call actually, between a dissident journalist and the head of the communist propaganda. I had some words to work with but I was aiming at the meaning behind those words. If I’m using historical documents as a starting point I’m only doing it to test the limits of that document, and ultimately of theater itself. To me it becomes pure fiction in the end, quite far away from documentary. I’m constantly asking myself if theater is able to kindle the understanding of the truth behind a document. I was keener on shows about contemporary everyday themes when I started out but at the moment I’m finding that era to be more attractive. Behind the words in the Security’s Files lies a reality that was hidden from us. For example the kid from Botosani suspiciously dies from leukemia two years after they caught him; a lot of people that went under Security surveillance died this way. I think that now is the time to talk about this past, and about dissidence in particular. I want a sixteen year old kid to be inspired by this case, to hear the echo of what has been done before him. I feel that teens and students are apathetic to changes that are being imposed on them. It’s not necessarily their fault, they’re just part of a context. Students are increasingly individualistic, most of them are too busy with themselves to be part of a generation, to show solidarity with their peers. D: Is your inspiration coming mainly from Romania? Would you live anywhere else? Not particularly. A few years ago I did a show about a similar theme in Munich. I discovered that we share this past throughout the Eastern Bloc. I think I could work in any country, and find inspiration anywhere, even in more organized societies. They have their cracks in the wall as well, and I find that to be very inspiring. I had a great time in New York for example, I’d live there, but I sometimes felt that the financial pressure can be daunting to a director there, forcing you to do some commercial compromises. London is becoming increasingly commercialized as well, leaving little room for experiments. D: Do you feel that there is city or a country where as an artist you wouldn’t feel that pressure? From my experience Germany, and especially Berlin is
the place to be now as an artist. They’re very openminded about it. D: Are shows in a different language, about a very alien issue usually well received abroad? Absolutely, I think that . You’re actually boiling it down to something very human in its essence, and it becomes very intuitive to understand. A show of mine about ethnic conflicts between Romanians and Hungarians played in Poland in an area with no history of ethnic animosities and it was well received.
D: You said in an interview that for some reason a lot of artists are not daring enough and that they’re hiding behind aesthetics. Theaters are full of beautiful shows that have absolutely nothing behind them. D: We liked that quote because we feel that’s the case with art in general now. I think that in theater at least it’s an echo from the past. Before ‘89 you had to do some sort of metaphorical theater, to show something and to actually talk about something else with it. You had to wrap your message in something very pleasing to look at, but I’m not sure why almost everybody is doing it now. They’re doing shows that are not disturbing or challenging anyone. But there’s some sort of inertia involved in it and people are still going to see them. Your average audience still has a very intangible, museum-like view on theater, but at its origins theater was very alive, it was run by the communities, and it concerned the everyday issues of the city. On the other hand, others see it as being very old fashioned. I think that if it’s done right, and especially if it references very tangible issues around us, it can be indeed very contemporary. D: Do you think that we’re seeing a new wave in contemporary Romanian theater? I think so, we are a few directors such as Davin Swartz, Bogdan Georgescu, Vera Ion, Radu Apostol and me who rarely make it, or want to make it into the mainstream. I’m not particularly fit for mainstream theater because my interest is geared towards the independent and the experimental. I’m not interested in anything commercial, but I’m not saying that in a bad way. L&V
// rabbit ears headband and black leather necklace // Atelier Laura Firefly // top & embelished skirt // Diana Flore // white necklace & earrings // ZARA
this page // dress and vest // Diana Flore // necklaces ZARA on the left // dress // Atelier Laura Firefly // necklaces // ZARA
golden evening dress // Atelier Laura Firefly // necklaces // ZARA
sequin dress // Diana Flore // mouse headband // Atelier Laura Firefly // sunglasses // Prada // next spread // dress // Atelier Laura Firefly
// PHOTOGRAPHY // VLAD ANDREI GHERMAN // CONCEPT & STYLING // LAURA FIREFLY // Hair Stylist // Dan Stoica // Make up Artist // Lidia Gligor // Stylist’s Assistant // Diana Flore //Model // Ramona Gudea
DA DDY DA D D Y C O OL There comes a time in our lives when we ask ourselves: what if things were different? If our childhood was a happy one and as it turns out, the Universe wasn’t laughing behind our back all this time. Would we turn back time and change something right now? Before we know it, years have gone by and these questions remain deep infiltrated in the back of our mind. The truth is most of the things we are miserable about were not in our power to decide, so we might as well accept them. Is it possible to do so without ending up drowning in pity? A consuming feeling that eats our soul like it’s nothing but a pile of cookies. The broken and terrible ghost of childhood’s past hides in our closet craving to get out. After all, the past makes us who we are today and if that sucks, maybe it’s time to do something about it. A few years ago I overheard this idea that some women look for their father in every man – how silly, right? The father figure plays an important role in every little girl’s life as he is the first man she knows. Basically this means the relationship with her father will play heavily in each and every romantic involvement she will have in the future. Following this intriguing idea, I did a little research on the Internet recently, to find out more about it. I suspected it had something to do with the well-known concept of “Daddy Issues” and I was right. Turns out this matter is divided into five categories: the absent father emotionally and physically missing; the absentee father - often emotionally/ physically missing; the missing father - simply non – existent; the terrible
dad - dominant & evil and the overly doting dad - overprotective & acceptant. Different kind of categories come with different effects on women, such as latent resentment against men, confused expectations, overcompensation, extreme mistrust and the sense of self- entitlement. As you would suspect by now, one does not simply type into Google “Daddy Issues” out of the blue. It all started a few weeks ago when I woke up one morning and I was certainly not feeling like P.Diddy. The thirst for some morning light made me go near the window and after I pulled the curtains aside, I found myself starring into the mirror... Err, yes, that’s what all narcissistic say. And it so happened that in moments like that I start to think of my existential problems. One thought led to another and I started to acknowledge something I noticed over the years but I never really paid attention to. I remembered a compliment received from a 30+ years old man regarding my articles, saying something like “Oh, you actually know what you’re talking about! You’re wiser that many women I know, much older than you” - and all that blabbering. It wasn’t the first time this situation was happening so based on that, an evil and satisfying grin appeared on my face. But the truth is I wasn’t feeling that way because someone was complimenting me on my talent. It all had to do with the approval behind it. After a moment of deep introspection, I realized that in every man that I had a thing for, I was looking for this single thing: approval. Nothing in this world could make me feel safer or stronger. Why would I need somebody to confirm what I already knew deep inside? After all, I have done quite a lot of things to be where I am today and if your work doesn’t speak for you, then I don’t know what does. The funniest part is when you start to be true to yourself you take a deep breath and then you can finally say it out loud: Holy F***ing S**t I have Daddy Issues! Hurray! Hurray! It’s a Holly Holly Day! Oh, no, wait.
Just to be sure, I went back to memory lane to see if I am not mistaking. The list of actions conducted by the lack of guidance from my dad goes like this: I spent eight years doing Fine Arts just because Dad is a talented sculptor and I wanted him to be proud of me - checked; started writing poems just because I’ve heard he was good at it as a little child - checked; spent hours learning jokes from books just because he is really funny - checked. Spending a lot of time pursuing dreams which are not your own may be exhausting, you know? Nothing to worry about - when the list of inspirational things to overachieve was nearly done, I started to pick things which I personally enjoyed and did everything to be the best – until I nearly destroyed myself – but now I’m back, from outer space. Luckily, sooner or later that one morning comes (hopefully) for every woman like me, when you start to see things from a different perspective. Yes, life is harsh and some dads have that “Oh, I have a child now, I’d better go to sleep for 20 years now” kind of mentality, but there’s no use of crying over spilt milk. Judging your dad for this and that is pointless in this stage and the only thing to always remember is that at the end of the day, he is human, just like you. Moving on to the good things area, without tears and boogers - because ain’t nobody got time for that, let me tell how wonderful it can be to have Daddy Issues. As I said, I “happened” to overachieve at school, I learnt to never give up there’s always something you may get approval for (haha), the over-analysis habit caused by the idea of never being good enough became a useful skill for me as a Journalist; I discovered my love for writing and I’ve developed a remarkable sense of humor based on sexual connotations. So I guess it’s not that bad after all. Life is too short to spend your time repairing something that is not broken - you are who you are and that’s that. Embrace the skeletons in your closet. by Alexandra Tincu
First of all you dont know me, // PHOTOGRAPHY // VLAD ANDREI GHERMAN // CONCEPT & STYLING // LAURA FIREFLY // Jewelry // Diana Flore & ALF // All clothing // Diana Flore //Model // Celia Clinciu
second of all you dont know me.
B O V A R I S M
The (inner) search for a meaning
I searched for meaning in the word; both metaphorically and practically. It left me disoriented. I wanted to find out something that would appeal to the definition in my head, which more immediately resembled the idea of escapism. And still it does in their definitions, but somehow it has a negative cloud floating above its nature. I now recognize the thought. It entered my head after I read other interpretations of the term. Some make it “capricious”, some “exaggerated” and “conceit”, some simply say it is a form of “anxiety” and that it is “unrealistic”. We borrowed Flaubert’s tendency for his spectacular character Emma Bovary, alimented by de Gaultier’s definition and kept to that. Even if powerful, the concept surrounding the word could be expanded toward a more positive outline. I fell for the word and what it could offer, in the light of a bohemian perspective, which lures you into a film-like atmosphere, accompanied almost always by unique music, everyone’s own soundtrack for significant moments. Moments which flourish in our memory because of a song, because of a wish, because of a dream. “The desire to adapt your own life to match a movie” said one of my teachers in high school, where I first encountered the idea of bovarism, and when I knew that it will mean something to me. Today I consider it to be exactly like that. “Wouldn’t you love to be in a movie?” said Sienna Miller playing enigmatic Edie Sedgwick in “Factory Girl” who died of an overdose after being drawn into an imagined dream world by Andy Warhol&Co. There are a few modern Madame Bovary of our century, who have ended tragically, which brings us to one of the bad sides of bovarism. Campbell’s Psychiatric Dictionary defines bovarism as the failure to diferentiate between fantasy and reality. Is it really this what bovarism should mean? What about the ability to shape one’s reality in a creative way? In an original way? This is my manifesto for bovarism, in order to propel the concept towards a brighter future. I feel confident and hopeful about the term and as a proof I recently found an interpretation on a forum: “Bovarism is simply to daydream all the time”. This is absolutely enchanting! To live life in such a manner, that your imagination, vision, ideas, call it however you want, become your reality; not in the sense that anything is easily achievable, but in the sense that your perception changes, and makes it possible for you to expand your creativity. Why bovarism? Bovarism just because; because I sometimes feel that adopting a new view over reality is good as it offers you a way to fight your inner shadows and ghosts, it helps you escape what otherwise will drive you mad. by Irina Hentea
// Concept & Styling // Catalin Valean // Model // Marius Kovacs
// PHOTOGRAPHY // VLAD ANDREI GHERMAN // ART DIRECTION // LAURA FIREFLY // HAIR STYLIST // DAN STOICA
make up // Deea Balgaradean // model // Sonia Salomie
make up // Flavia Silaghi // model // Andrada Oprean
make up // Amalia Bot // model // Amalia Denisa
make up // Amalia Bot // model // Anda Iobagel
make up // Deea Balgaradean // model // Renata Mos
make up // Flavia Silaghi // model // Celia Clinciu
hand knitted blouse // Knitted Lullaby by Iulia Marinescu
// PHOTOGRAPHY // VLAD ANDREI GHERMAN // CONCEPT & GARMENTS // LAURA FIREFLY // Hair Stylist // Dan Stoica // Make up // Flavia Silaghi //Photographer’s Assistant // Em Iova //Model // Selina Popa // MRA Models
trousers // Roberto Cavalli // shirt // Alberto Fabiani vintage // lace top // La Perla
wild at heart and weird on top // PHOTOGRAPHY // VLAD ANDREI GHERMAN // CONCEPT & STYLING// LAURA FIREFLY //Model // Silvana Moldovan
sweater // Bershka // swimsuit // vintage // trainers // Nike // ring // H&M
leggings // American Apparel // sneakers // Adidas Originals by Jeremy Scott
swimsuit // Emporio Armani // jeans // Leviâ€™s vintage
G h e t to Superstar // PHOTOGRAPHY // VLAD ANDREI GHERMAN // ALL CLOTHES // ANCUTA SARCA //Models // Catalin Valean // Raluca Ciornea // Ancuta Sarca
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Published on Oct 29, 2013