Tallinn Old Town - Estonia
By Solange Hando
Long ago on Toompea Hill, the noble families of Tallinn enjoyed fresh air and stunning views while at their feet, artisans and traders earned their living in dark mysterious lanes. Nowadays, in Estonia’s capital, the hill top welcomes everyone with its lovely esplanades looking down on red gabled roofs, cobbled alleyways, lofty spires and the remains of the city wall. The Baltic Sea glistens in the distance and the chiming of bells mingles with bird song. Up there, two cathedrals beckon, the old Lutheran church with tombs and coats of arms and the modern Russian Orthodox with golden mosaics and onion-shaped domes. Girls in Estonian dress sell roasted almonds on a quiet square and the Old Town, now a World Heritage site, tumbles down the picturesque streets, known as ‘Tallinn’s two legs’. In the humble Danish King’s Garden, they say, Valdemar II rested on his way to Toompea and inspired by a vision of what would become the Danish flag, he led his troops to victory. All around, flowering plants and medieval Guild signs line the meandering steps and alleyways where small art galleries and craft shops mingle with outdoor cafés and secluded courtyards. Look out for St Nicholas church, famous for its silver and dancing skeletons and St Olav’s which, when it was built in 1500, claimed the world’s tallest spire. The House of the Black Heads Brotherhood was for young unmarried merchants, protected by an African saint, and the ‘Fat Margaret’ tower, named after a cook, is now the Maritime Museum. Now and then, you catch a glimpse of the limestone city wall, dating back to the 13th century, over a mile long altogether and dotted with fairy tale towers, including the ivy-draped Viru Gate, the city’s icon, and the strangelynamed ‘Maidens’ Tower’ where prostitutes were sent to jail. St Catherine’s Passage and the Masters’ Courtyard are awash with ceramics, quilts and hand-painted silk, sheer delight for photographers, but gems await on every corner, here a Dominican Priory, there a flour mill, a Great Guildhall and on the Town Hall Square, the oldest pharmacy in Europe. This colourful square has been the heart of town for 800 years. The Gothic Town Hall is a 15th century masterpiece, some say the best of its
72
kind in Northern Europe, with dragons spouting water from the façade and Old Thomas, the local mascot, perched atop the tower. Pink, red, white or cream, tall merchant houses rise all around, bearing witness to the wealth of the Hanseatic League, a medieval guild which traded from the Baltic to the North Sea. Visitors gaze at the compass rose on the round stone and the great cauldrons of elk soup bubbling under the arcades where traditional restaurants beckon with furcovered chairs. Some seek out the Bishops’ House festooned in apostles’ niches, others make their way to the City’s Museum and its scale model of Tallinn but sooner or later, the bakeries beckon with tempting displays of hand-made chocolates and marzipan, invented right here, in the old pharmacy. According to legend, the pharmacist was ill and the astute apprentice, who had to test all remedies, replaced the bitter herbs with sweet ingredients. Everyone loved it, especially the patients. So in Old Tallinn today, you’ll find marzipan in all shapes and colours and you can even try making your own in a local workshop.
Please mention The Villager and Town Life when responding to adverts