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ETHOS. Diversity Issue Page 4-9 Have We Lost A Race? Pages 10-17 Street Culture.


Have We Lost A Race?


A

us ignoring the harsh reality that we are racist buying into a racist brand. Calvin Klein was not the only fashugust 1974, the first ion house to use a lack of ethnic black model is featured in an issue of models. New York fashion week Vogue. Beverley Johnson was breakAW12 saw 4479 models; in which ing down the racial barriers within there were 3706 white (82.7%), 409 the fashion industry. Fashion had finally recognized different races and ethnic culture for their own identity, but more importantly they were also accepting them. Since this breakthrough, we have seen many super models hit the runway and covers of magazines from the infamous Iman and Namoi Campell to the more modern faces such as Jourdan Dunn. Racial diversity was introduced into the fashion empire with Asian (9.1%), 271 black (6%) and a positive impact; the world was 90 Latina (2%). (Jezebel by Jenna changing and making history with Sauers) Casting directors have sugthe black power movement, the gested the reasons being that the equality of races was finally fall and winter colours in the collecbeing accepted. This was the time tions look more aesthetic against the for fashion to move forward with white pale skin. society. To integrate different ethThe lack of ethnic models is so low nic races to inspire collections that that there were more black peowould also result in inspiring the ple on the catwalk in the 70’s than people. So why is the fashion there are now. Iman stated ‘we have industry stuck in the moment and a president and a first lady who are not moving forward? black. You would think things have Calvin Klein’s SS12 saw a runway changed, and then you realize that with zero ethnic race models. In they have not. In fact, things have which the society does not seem gone backward.’ Fashion and the to be affected; a response from a critics are moving backwards whilst coloured blogger I interviewed was societies within day-to-day life ‘the lack of ethnic diversity is norare moving forward. The society is mal an all white catwalk is not unchanging, adapting and accepting usual.’ If we see an all white catwalk cultures. Learning to appreciate and as normal, will it be seen as normal interpret different styles, society and to go back to segregated schools and faces. buses? Advanced technology allows deCalvin Klein is dependent on all signers to broadcast their shows live, types of people that want to be seen showcasing their work to a non-racin its logo. Illustrating how strong ist society. You would assume that the brand value is worth. As a rehaving a bigger audience would sult to the consumption of images result in more critics, critics that and our idealistic view of beauty we would pick up on the lack of ethnic ignore the lack of cultural diversiraces and the domination of white ty from the brands that inspire us. models. Accept we do just the opFashion is a segregated industry, but posite. Instinctively we segregate by as customers we only care about the the colour with an assumption that brand name not the brand value. ethnic people are not good enough. Our softened sensitivity results to

“The

A statement by Carole White; ‘I think clients have this perception that black girls do not sell products, which goes way back to the 50’s. I think it’s engrained in every magazine editor. There are more products for blonde and blue-eyed girls. Ever ything is geared to that.’ Carole is a designer that sources mainly white models yet is putting the fault on the magazine editors. We forget that not including segregated models illustrates a discriminating society. ‘The absence of people of color on the runways and photography reinforces to our young girls that they’re not beautiful enough, that they’re not acceptable enough.’ The consumers are not aware to the issue and designers shift the blame, assuming that it is a fixed perception within the fashion industry. It wasn’t noted until the influential Naomi Campell came out exploiting the fashion industry on their racism act. As part of the diversity coalition with Iman they have written to many fashion councils to call an end to racism within fashion. When talking about this issue Campell said ‘it’s heart-breaking to me that we’re in 2013 and we’re sitting here talking about this. But it has to be done and people need to know.” Since the diversity coalition have spoken out there has been a change within the catwalk. Calvin Klein saw 5 coloured models on their SS14 collection and there was a raise of 2.72% of ethnic models within the New York SS14 fashion week. However these are only small changes for a big issue. Campell has recognized these changes responding;

absence of people of color on the runways and photography reinforces to our young girls that they’re not beautiful enough, that they’re not acceptable enough.”


‘If you’re beautiful, you’ve got the right aesthetics, that you have the opportunity to go after the job, and be in the show, or be chosen like anyone else. So it’s not something that’s just hip for five minutes.’ The critics and public are a massively influenced by the fashion industry as it is slowly filtered down into everyday life. Although the diversity coalition has created awareness and pushed for change within the fashion industry we are still only seeing around 25% of different ethnic races being used each season. Is the industry going to move one step forward and then move one step back? If we were to see the industry change to have an equal integrated catwalk, would you still buy into the brand represented by an all black catwalk? Who are the true racists the designers or the customers?


Street Culture


E T H O S .

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