A/W 16 COLLECTION: ‘WABI-GAMI’
ABOUT DAVIES-BARBALA EDUCATION
Starting his career in hairdressing at the age of 15, Jeremy Davies-Barbala has over 20 years of experience in the hair industry. His vast background includes being the Senior Creative Director for Vidal Sassoon for several years, leading in their academies and flagship salons in London and Los Angeles, the former alongside colour legend Annie Humphries. He has also held the role of International Creative Director for leading hair product brand Joico. The first Davies-Barbala Education Academy was established in Trondheim in 2016 by Jeremy and his wife Astri Barbala, a visual culture scholar, founded on the principles of suitability, obtainability and sustainability. At Davies-Barbala Education, we believe in the individual. Our goal is to help you develop, evolve and improve your own style of cutting, as well as evoke a new creative approach to your work to create The Total Look. We aim to bring back the craftsmanship and culture of hair, encouraging stylists to approach hairdressing as a culturally significant craft.
WABI-GAMI: An Introduction With the contrasts of Japanese culture as a starting point, the collection lends its name to a hybrid of the words ‘wabi-sabi’ and ‘origami’, both representing important elements of Japanese aesthetics, ancient as well as postmodern. Drawing inspiration from diverse aspects of the country’s multifaceted history, ranging from hanakotoba, the language of flowers, to the raw DIY ethos of the post-punk movement, Wabi-Gami is geometric, yet romantic, hard-edged yet sophisticated, celebrating the remarkable visual impact of Japanese culture.
Credits Haircuts & Colour: Jeremy Davies-Barbala Creative Direction: Astri Barbala & Jeremy Davies-Barbala Photography: Mikkel Walle Styling: Astri Barbala Makeup: Line Sandbakk Words: Astri Barbala
WABI-GAMI inspirations ORIGAMI Origami is the ancient art of paper folding, a rich tradition in Japan and China alike, believed to originate from the 1600s. For this collection, we have looked to origami for the cutting techniques. Hidden sections throughout the haircut allows the look to ‘unfold’ from a sleek, geometric design into an unexpected extended shape.
WABI-SABI: THE BEAUTY OF IMPERFECTION A life philosophy as well as an aesthetic outlook, wabi-sabi implies that beauty lies in the imperfect and impermanent, in the humble and unconventional: Nothing is – and shouldn’t be – perfect. This viewpoint is a contrast to the contemporary Western world’s unobtainable ‘perfect’ beauty ideal, and has influenced the overall look and feel of Wabi-Gami.
HANAKOTOBA: THE LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS In English referred to as ‘floriography’, hanakotoba is a language that without words expresses feelings and beauty. In Japan, flowers are strong symbols of emotion and communication, and each flower has its own meaning. For Wabi-Gami, we have taken colour cues from the essentially Japanese cherry blossom (meaning ‘kind’ and ‘gentle’), whose delicate lilac hue has lent inspiration to the colour palette, which stands in stark contrast to the otherwise raw and minimal feel of the collection.
THE POST-PUNK MOVEMENT Post-punk, emerging in the wake of the hard-hitting punk movement in the late 1970s, brought a less aggressive and more complex twist to the DIY-based subculture. First and foremost a musical movement, encompassing genres such as new wave and hardcore, post-punk also departed the extreme fashions of punk and instead adopted a more paireddown and accessible, yet experimental style of dressing, which we have looked to for the styling and colour stories for the collection. In Japan, post-punk bands such as Mariah and Non Band (see picture) have gained a cult following amongst music collectors and fashionistas alike.
JAPANESE HORROR MOVIES Japanese cinema has a rich horror tradition, often referred to as J-horror, with its own unique narrative and style. Built on traditional folklore, J-horror is often characterized by its eerie ghost characters. The genre generated worldwide attention in the late 1990s and early 2000s with movies such as The Ring (1998, see right) and The Grudge (2002).
AVANT-GARDE FASHION Drawing inspiration from architecture, new technologies and Japanese minimalist principles, designers such as Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto (see picture) and Issey Miyake emerged in the late 1960s, revolutionising the world of fashion. Deconstruction, asymmetry and streamlined forms are buzz words for their creations, all three often utilising the humble, white shirt as a design starting point.