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TEXT BOOK ....OF...

THE GREAT MODERN SYSTEM COR r

#*«?

DESIGNING AND CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.

:

AS TAUGHT BY ^W*'

A. D.

RUDE & SON AT...

New

York Cutting School

NEW YORK

j iji \p \j^ k^j

y

CITY.

Cleveland Cutting School

CLEVELAND, OHIO.

C14C1HCNC

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I

60640 OCT 13 1900 9e^< VbAQirwS£on*o

cor

15

igon

J

Lfi CT

NEW YORK,

US'.

V.

CLEVELAND,

O.

II

-

1^


HE DEMAND fact

in

Ladies'

Garments

Tailor-made

on the increase and the time

constantly

come,

for

many women

now

is

it

as

men

to

make

here in

many

trades

soon

will

where

measure for

leave their

is

as

a suit

of clothes.

The one thing needful a

proper system

that

have

the

cutting

of

three

"beauty" and these

which

cardinal

virtues,

in

and cutters using

it

is

the hundreds of cutters

Men's garments

To Garments

those

this

who

there will

and putting

With

it

namely

ladies'

"grace"

"tit,"

easily learned

thoroughly

and

System

will

practi-

woman

a coat, vest or trousers for a

who

man.

use our system for cutting

prove an open book "

in

very truth."

have not used our system for Cutting Men's be a positive pleasure in adopting this System

into practical use

full faith in

the future of Ladies' Tailoring as the

of largely increasing the merchant tailoring trade, and

the System contained in this book will be

we

garments

can produce a coat, waist or skirt for a

with the same ease that they can cut

To

produce

is

book form.

The system here presented cal

will

tailoring a success

produced by our " Great Modern System

are

which we here present

ladies'

a large

means

means

a belief that to that end,

aie,

Yours

fraternally,

A.

D.

RUDE & SON.


THE ENTIRE CONTENTS

OF IS

THIS

VOLUMN

PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT.


GENERAL REMARKS. AY

particular

attention

how

designated and just All divisions

except

which

J,

th^

To

is

line extends.

on square are measured from joint of square,

DRAW

DRAFT

word

each

far

line

measured from extreme end of long arm.

is

The word

name by which each

to the

is

used to designate

all

straight lines,

and

for curved ones.

obtain good results imitate curves on draft as closely as

possible.

Whenever divisions

it

ACROSS, All

the

means

word

DOWN

Depth

the

of

is

connection with the

Scye,

and

whenever the word

the Bust Measure.

garments are drafted for stitched edge.

used deduct

%

in.

%.

When

binding

is

from edge of garment.

Collars are drafted for felled edge:

used add

in

used

when

turned-in

seam

is

inch.

For better comparison collars are shown together on separate pages. In places

desired, is

where amounts can be varied

we would

advise to use

to suit style of

amount marked on

garment

pattern until draft

thoroughly understood.

You

will find

the brief remarks

it

a great help

above.

to

pay particular

attention

to


s> Jacket

Waist

or

MEASURE, s

First place tape under right

back on top of square, then under left arm and mark Place square under arm so it is just in same manner. nor too loose, and see that the tight easy, not too is

Take Bust easy measure standing

arm holding both

ends above shoulder very tight, then mark on back along and inside of tape, then under left arm and mark in same manner, then measure across back from mark to mark, take one half of this amount for l in. for seams. width of back and add / 2 Place square under right arm and mark on

square

BUST MEASURE.

6.

Coat Measure.

WAIST MEASURE.

7.

of

Measure around so as tape back and very tight.

8.

marks and mark centre of back, then find exact length of natural waist and mark in most hollow part of back, then mark on vest collar where you wish seam of coat collar to come.

TO GET

Place straight edge

it

firmly

with

left

DEPTH OF

SCYE.

3.

in

TO GET SUPPRESSION OF

V/AIST.

Measure down back from

mark 4.

mark on

collar

to

at natural waist.

measure

less.

WAIST.

edge

to

most hollow

Vest Measure. Measure length of vest from centre of back on vest collar to length desired in front, and holding tape at length of vest at front, measure back, up to the opening. These measures are applied on vest the same as they are taken. For all other vest measures use waist measures.

ARTIFICIAL WAIST.

waist.

Measure down from mark on collar to Measure down from mark on collar

to

mark

length of coat.

Measure around waist very

tight,

around hip

rather easy-

Take length

LENGTH OF COAT. Measure down back from mark on

Skirt Measure.

artificial

at largest part of hip.

5.

straight

will

to waist

part of back.

measure book.

NATURAL

back hold-

hand, then take square in

customer is a regular form she two inches, if stooping more, and if erect

Measure from mark on waist collar, down back to mark even with bottom of armscye, and always call this measure one inch more, and so write it

hip line,

hand and measure from straight edge

Measure from 2.

against customer's

collar, if

Measure length of sleeve by placing square under arm and measure down the arm as far as customer may desire.

easy.

INCLINE.

with end of straight edge just at

ing

SLEEVE.

hollow part

fit

Measure around largest part of hip All measures are taken over waist.

right 1.

will

HIP MEASURE.

perfectly perpendicular.

Place square across back even with these two

in rear of

customer.

floor

collar to

front

sides

of

and

skirt from

back

and

seam of band add

one

inch

to

to

measure.

For rainy day

skirt

measure length as

desired.


Application of Depth of Scye, OOQOOOOOOO

A

Place end of tape at

amount

36 on square and measure

down

of the depth of scye, on scale of E. •

'A

inches depth

of

scye gives

24 25

a

ii

7i

n 8

"J

84 8! 9 '•'!

9| lu

10.1 ii

i(

ii

ii

10f ii

i.

on scale of E.

the


FLY FRONT JACKET. PLATE

I.


FLY FRONT JACKET. ^^r Measure* Width of Back. Length of Sleeve.

<'.'_.

18

8}4 Depth

36 24

42

of Scye.

To Natural Waist. To Seat and Full Length.

15

20

FOUNDATION LINES Draw baseline

amount

construction line

—2

1

to

I

natural waist

of suppression 2

(

in. to

•">

2

Incline.

2

Suppression.

in. strong and from 13 to 14, from 12 to 16 is from 17 to 18 is one in. Draft curve from I I through 18 to Bust line and from 16 to Bust Line. of Bust Measure (IS in. Measure forward from L on Bust line to M and square down to N on 4/

measure down on in.) and mark in

2,

1

Bust Measure. Waist Measure. Hip Measure.

•">.

i-

Draw line

1

—3

line

from

through

1

angles to line

at right

and square across

">

1

5.

)

hip line.

Place square on draft so as stars on square will

— — — —

meet those on draft and mark down A32 B32 D32 E32 by depth of scye measure and F3fi G36 H."><> 13(5 by bust measure. E is the Bust Line. Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. to Waist Line, and 20 in. to Hip Line, which is

M

From wherever

measure back

of Bust Measure to Natural Waist Line marked T.

ma}' meet.

it

J>

Measure forward from T,

2 in.

the same

amount

back from 5 to 7, then square down to X X to 21 is in. at right angles with Waist Line. Draf: curve from 12 through 14 through 19 to 21. 9 to 8 is 2i in., 14 to 9 is 3 in. Draw Hue from arm as width

of

1

1

also the length of jacket in this case

From B mark up one

and down one in. square all lines across (except B use one in. down and one in. up instead) at right angles to line 5, and in.

1

square

lines

all

down

at

right angles to line

1

.">,

From 8

scye through 9 through 8 to 22.

to

24

is

Draw line from arm scye through 23 through 25 From 24 to 26 is 2£ in. From 23 to 27 is 2.1 in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to 28. From 26 to 29 is + in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Measure from N to 30, 30 to 28, 28 to 25, 22 to of in. and as 21, 31 to 32. You will find this gives 21 1 30 to 33. in. from add in. from 1 hip measure is A in. from 25 to 36 and in. from 22 28 to 34. to 35. This gives a total of 6 in. which makes pattern Draft curve from 29 to 33, from of Hip Measure. and 8 to 35. 24 to 36 26 to 34, £-

24

in.

to

'

1

noting how

far each line extends.

BACK.

1

Measure across width of back (<>.l in.) from line one in. above B and square down to 4. Make width of back at waist from to 7) 2 in. and square down to 31. (•">

The line from C to is used as a guide line only. Mark in 2 in. at bottom of jacket same as sup•">

A

Draft curved line from

F;

to

from

F

to 6;

6 to 4; 4 through 7 and 13 to 31.

Mark down :

+ in.

forward from

from 10 to der from F

SHOULDER. from G and F .")2

I to

10

(for 2 in.

Measure back from 6 and draft curve to

F.

1

to

ARM SCYE AND Mark (for 2 in.

from

E

| in.

width of shoul-

11.

SIDEBODY. to L on Bust

Line, incline) and the same amount from 4 to I 2 2

J

4 in. in

.1

.1

FORE PART.

M

for Make = up Line, and Line. Mark down J 32 from Bottom Line on Make. up Line and draw line from % i 11 below 33 to J. Add A in. at Waist Line in front of Make=up Line, and draw line through 37 and 38 from top to

square down to

add 2i

in.

Bottom

-

down and incline) draw line

1*)

1

1

From

plait is f in. width.

.1

1

pression.

The

.">

bottom of

draft.

From 10 measure down F 32 and ward to Make-up Line. Draft Curve from

square for-

10 through 39. Add % in. from 39 to 40 and from 41 to 42 for button stand and draw line full leugth of Draft. 1


DOUBLE BREASTED JACKET. PLATE

II.


11

FLY FRONT JACKET. Measure.

Gy2 Width 18

8%

of Back.

36

Length of Sleeve. Depth of Scye.

24

42

To Natural Waist. To Seat and Full Length.

15

20

FOUNDATION LINES Draw baseline

construction line

—2

1

amount of suppression

Draw line

me

—3

1

t

1

to natural waist

line from

measure down on (15 in.) and mark in 2,

1

through

5 1

and square across

— — and F36 — G36 — H36

of scye measure 136 by bust measure.

E

is

the

Bust Line.

Place end of tape at

A

and measure down

15 in.

Waist

Line, and 20 in. to Hip Line, which also the length of jacket in this case. to

From B mark up one

is

and down one in. square all lines across (except B use one in. down and one in. up instead) at right angles to line 5, and in.

1

square noting

all

how

lines

down

at

Incline.

2

Suppression.

hip

line.

From M measure back it may meet Natural

wherever

right angles to line

1

."»,

far each line extends.

same amount down to X at right angles with Waist Line. X to 21 is in. Draft curve from 12 through 14 through 19 to 21. 19 to 8 is 2A in., 14 to 9 is 3 in. Draw line from arm scye through 9 through 8 to 22. From 8 to 24 is Draw line from arm scye through 23 through i in. 24 to 25. From 24 to 26 is 2 A in. From 23 to 27 is 2i in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to 28. From 26 to 29 is % in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Measure from N to 30, 30 to 28, 28 to 25, 22 to

Measure across width of back (<!A in.) from line one in. above B and square down to 4. Make width of back at waist from (5 to 7 1 in. and square down to The line from C to 5 is used as a guide line only. Mark in 2 in. at bottom of jacket same as sup-

1

1

21,31

to 32.

You

hip measure

is 21

28

A in.

to 34.

1

The 6

to 4;

4 through 7 and 13

A

F;

to

from

F

to 6;

to 31.

SHOULDER. Mark down F 32 from G and

f in.

%'m. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11.

ARM SCYE AND in. in

from

1

J,

SIDEBODY. E to L on Bust

Line, (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14, from 12 to 16 is \ in. strong from 17 to 18 is one in. Draft curve from II through 18 to Bust line and from I 6 to Bust Line.

I

.

1

This gives a total of in. which makes pattern Hip Measure. Draft curve from 29 to 33, from 26 to 34, 24 to 36 and 8 to 35. <i

FORE PART. From M add 2A in. for Make-up Line, and square down to Bottom Line. Mark down J 32 from Bottom Line on Make. up Line and draw line from % in. below 33 to J. Add A in. at Waist Line in front of Make=up Line, and draw line through 37 and 38 from top to bottom of

down and incline) draw line

Mark '2%

and as of add in. from 30 to 33. \ in. from from 25 to 36 and 1A in. from 22 will find this gives 15 in.

5 of

.">1

pression.

2 in. the

as width of back from 5 to 7, then square

to 35.

BACK.

plait is f in. width. Draft curved line from

Bust Measure to Wai.^t Line marked T. \ of

Measure forward from T,

5.

Place square on draft so as stars on square will rliose on draft and mark down A32 B32 D32

— E32 by depth

2

Measure forward \ of Bust Measure (18 in.) from L on Bust line to M and square down to N on

2 in. to 5.

at right angles to line

Bust Measure. Waist Measure. Hip Measure.

draft.

From 10 measure down F 32 and square forMake-up Line. Draw line from 1 through 18 to Bust Line from O to P is H in. from 39 to 44 is A in. from 44 to 43 is \ in., Draft V between ward

to

1

44 and 43.

Draw

from P through 44 to 45; from 44 from 37 to 40 is 3 in. Draw line from 40 through 42 to bottom of jacket. Draft curve from 45 through 40 to bottom as

to

45

is

desired.

3A

line

in.


TIGHT FITTING JACKET, PLATE

III.


13

TIGHT FITTING JACKET.

First

measure

draft

same

jacket

forward from

as

Two

T.

one half of waist measure

plate

O.

to

more than

inches

O

From

Draw

except

1,

Line

3^

for

inches

dart

seams take

of

3

of

dart

make up from P inches

to

which

makes

of

whatever

will

with

3A

one

inches,

may

size

seam

up amount from P of

dart.

to

R

of

Bust

to

from

distance

N

E,

and top

of

dart

is

2A

40

is

one

inches

from

W.

half in

be

From 39

to

inch,

and

from

41

large bias

inch

other

for

words

required

to

42

draft

is

one inch, draw line

curve from

to

be take

one half

is

18

find this leaves

Take out one

R.

dart

you

P,

to

W

through

11

add two to

inches

N.

for

from

line

allowing w inch for

desired.

42

to

from

Bottom

of

40

to

Coat

42 and as

may


GLOVE FITTING WAIST. PLATE

IV,


15

GLOVE FITTING WAIST. ^m^ Measure, Width Length

6i IS

U

Back.

of

Sleeve.

of

To Natural KU To Length

CONSTRUCTION

LINES.

—2

1

natural

to

suppression 2

of

through

5

at right angles to line

1

line

from

1

and square across

— Place square on with meet and mark down A32 — B32 — — E32 — by depth scye measure and across F36 — G36 — H3(> — 136 by bust 1

—3

draft

5.

stars

to

D:'>2

of

measure.

From B mark up Measure down from A, 16£

length

to

in.

B

(except

use

1

of in.

right angles to line

angles

right,

at

to

1

inch

1

15 in. to

and down f inch. natural waist and

waist, square

up and f in. down 5, and square all

line

1

across

lines

all

instead) at lines

down

to

in.,

The line

square down

line

from

C

to

(5

to

7)

5

is

vised

as

to

Make=up

from

4 through 13 and 7

A to

F;

from

bottom

line.

to

SHOULDER. Mark down F 32 from G and

F

Line.

Draft

curve

Drop

1

T

f in.

SIDEBODY.

in.

Draft curve from 11 through to

18 to Bust line

K

and draw Waist Line

(18 in.)

2

in.,

darts.

Make

small

which allowing

1

in.

seams

in. for

1

makes 4 in. Square down from 18 for 22. Top of dart is tance from 22 to 25.

dart

of darts

it

is

desired to button

hold tape at x (half from 25 to 28.

line.

waist line on to

4

bottom to

point

O

is

2A

in.

waist

way between 14 and

9)

A

of dis-

from O. to

neck,

and sweep

Mark down F from bottom line on make-up Draw line from 30 to F and draft curve from

5

to

Make=up Line

through

R

out

A

in.

of waist.

For

Measure

two

with

case),

and large dart

Bust Line.

Measure forward I of Bust from L on Bust line to M.

from

in.

Measure forward from T, \ in. more than A From N add 2 in. for Make= of waist measure to N. up to P. Take out amount from P to R (4 in. in this

from E to L (for 2 in. incline) 2| and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 16 is £ in. (strong) from 17 to 14, from 12 to 18 is one in.

and from 16

from 10 to 40.

R.

to

When

ARM SCYE AND

angles

1

to 6;

down and £ in. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same as width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11.

Mark

Make-

for

in.

at right

Bust Line. Mark down F 32 from 10 and square forward

guide

a

T.

FORE PART.

If in.

is

to

line.

If

only.

to 4;

Suppression.

Measure forward from T, If in. the same amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then draft curve from 12 through 14 and 19, and 20 to 21, from 20 to 21 is £ in. From 19 to 8 is 2 A in., from 14 to 9 is 3 in. Draw line from arm scye through 9 and 8 to bottom From 8 to 24 is f in. Draw line from arm line. scye through 23 and 24 to bottom line. From 24 From 23 to 27 is 2.V in. Draw line to 26 is 2i in. from 27 through 26 to bottom line. From 26 to 29 Draw line from 27 through 29 to bottom is f in. Add spring from 8, 24, 26 and 29 to bottom line.

to

width of back at waist from

Draft curved line from

6

C and

to

in.

width of back at bottom

2

From M measure back A of Bust Measure wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked

4.

Make

Incline.

Measure forward from M 2A up Line, and square up and down

BACK. <>A

2

noting how far each

3,

line extends.

Measure across

Waist Measure.

of Waist.

5.

Draw

line

24

Waist.

Measure down on base line waist (15 in.) and mark in amount to

Bust Measure.

Depth of Seye.

L5

in.

''><>

in.

lapel waist or jacket waist,

from 40 and draw

10.

measure down

lapel line

from this


WAIST FOR STOUT LADY. PLATE

V.


17

WAIST FOR STOUT LADY. -^8^ Measure* Width of Back. Length of Sleeve. Depth of Scye.

18 9A

17

CONSTRUCTION

1

in.

A

—2

(1.">A

to

natural

to

suppression

of

5.

Draw

—3

from

line

through

1

and square across

5

— Place square on draft with meet and mark down A36 — Bo(i — D36 — E36 — by depth scye measure and across P42 — G42 — H42 — 142 by bust line

1

at right

angles to line

5.

1

stars

to

of

measure.

From B mark up Measure down from A, L5A 1

length

to

in.

7

B

(except

use

angles

right

across

lines

1

right angles to line at

all

up and in. down instead) at 1 5, and square all lines down

in.

1

square

inch.

1

waist and

natural

to

in.

waist,

of

and down

inch

1

line

to

1

3, noting

how

'"><>

Waist Measure. Incline.

1

LINES.

Measure down on base line 1 in.) and mark in amount

waist

Bust Measure.

2

To Natural Waist. To Length of Waist.

15i

42

each

far

line extends.

Suppression.

s

From M measure back A of Bust Measure wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked Measure forward from T, amount as width of back from 5

the

in

to

T.

same

then draft

7,

14 and 19, and 20 to 21,

from 12 through from 20 to 21 is f in.

curve

From 19

2

to

from 14 to 9 is 3| in. Draw line from arm scye through 9 and 8 to bottom line. From 8 to 24 is A in. Draw line from arm scye through 23 and 24 to bottom line. From 24

26

8

to

is

2 A in.,

From 23 to 27 is 2 A in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to bottom line. From 26 to 29 is A in. Draw line from 27 through 29 to bottom line. From 29 to 30 is 2 in., from 27 to 28 is 2 in. Draw line from 28 through 30 to bottom line. From 30 to 31 is in. Draw line from 28 through 31 to bottom line. Add spring from 8, 24, 26, 29, 30 and 31 to bottom line.

to

is 2 A in.

1

,

J

>

BACK. Measure across to

7

A

Make width width of back

in.,

The line

of at

from

line

C

to

used

is

.">

to

(.">

7)

2

Measure forward from M 2 A up Line, and square up and down to

as

a

euide

only.

to 4;

FORE PART.

square down

back at waist from bottom is 2 in.

to

A

Draft curved line from

6

C and

to

in.

4.

4 through 13 and 7

Mark down

to

to

F;

bottom

SHOULDER. F 36 from G and

from

F*

to

Make=up Draft

line.

Drop

angles

right

forward

Line.

from 10

curve

from

in.

1

R

to

32.

and draw Waist

Line

from T. £ in.

4,

F

at

Make-

for

Bust Line. Mark down F 36 from 10 and square

to 6;

down and iu. forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw line from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same as width of shoulder from

in.

6 and draft curve

to

11.

Measure forward from T, 1A in. more than % From N add 2 in. for Make= of waist measure to N. in. to R and take out up to P. From P add this amount with two darts, (small dart f in. and in. for seams of darts). large dart If in., and .'i

1

.

1

ARM SCYE AND Mark

in.

SIDEBODY. E to L (for 2 in.

from

and the same amount from 4 14, from 12 to 16 is in. 18

is

one

in.

and from 16

to

18 to Bust line

Bust Line. A

on Bust line to M.

curve

bottom of

Bust

Measure

(21

it

is

desired to button

hold tape at x (half from 33 to 34.

line.

Measure forward

L

incline)

12 and from 13 to (strong) from 17 to

to

Draft curve from 11 through

from

When

way between 14 and

in.

9)

to

neck,

and sweep

Mark down F from bottom line on make-up Draw line from Side Seam to F and draft from

Waist Line through R

out

A

in.

to

of waist.

For waists where edges

in.)

waist

entire

length of front.

just

meet take

off

A


HALF FITTING BOX COAT. PLATE VL


19

HALF FITTING BOX COAT. •^ Measure. Width

of Back.

36

Bust Measure.

Depth

of Scye.

24

Waist Measure.

42

Hip Measure.

u 20

To Natural Waist. To Hip Line.

28

Long.

15

Incline.

2

FOUNDATION LINES Draw

construction line

line as a base line square

1

SIDE SEAM. using this

'and

2,

— A32 — — Do2 — —H

across line

3.

1

Place square on draft so as stars on square will Bo'-' meet those on draft and mark down H B3- by depth of scye measure and Foil G-">'i 136 by bust measure. From B mark up one in. Place end of tape at A and measure down 15 in. to Waist Line, 20 in. to Hip Line, and 28 in. to Bottom Line or whatever length may be desired. Square all lines across at right angles to line 1 2 (except B square this line 1 in. above B) and

(

down

at

right angles

line

to

I

3,

5

to

Draw

6

a line from

F

is

to

A

Draft curve

A

in.,

from

From 22

4 through 9 through 8

to

F;

from

Bottom

F

is

1

A

in.

to 6;

6

to

4;

Line.

Bottom

forward

32 from G, and f from I to 10. (For

Measure back from and draft curve to 1

I

in. 2

down and in. incline)

width of shoulder from

F

to

length

is

cut

out

to

Line.

Make-up and

for

in.

From 24

25

to

square

Draw

f in.

is

in.

•">

in

front

of

Hake=up Line draw

and

at

entire

line

of coat.

32 through 32 and 34

of

to

coat.

1

SCYE.

top button

is

forward

3-

placed

Space for three buttons back from edge. 27.

from E to L on Bust Line (for 2 in. incline) from 4 to 12 is i in., from 13 to 14 is 1 in,, from 1 2 to 15 is in. Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line and from 15 to Bust Line. in.

add 2A

Draft curve from

<>

bottom

ARM 2£

this

in.,

Bust Line and Hip Line

The

Mark

1A

is

through 26 through 25 entire length of draft for Hake=up Line. From 10 measure down F 32 and square forward to flake=up Line, and draft curve from 10 to 27. From 27 to 28 is J in., and from 28 in., draw line to 29 is A in. from 30 to 31 is from 31 through j in. above 28 to 32. From 28 to 32 is 3A in., cut out V between 28 and 29. Mark down J from bottom line on flake= up Line and draw line from 35 through J.

Add

Mark down F in.

23

FRONT.

M

From

SHOULDER. I

to

Line.

1

to 8

7

6.

to

Bottom

line

Measure across width of back (<>i in.) on line above B to C and square down to 4. Mark 1A in. back from 4 to 5 and square down

Hip Line. From C to

to

give spring over hip.

to

BACK. in.

K

and

noting how far

each line extends.

one

From L measure forward A of Bust Measure in.) on Bust Line to M, and square down to N on Hip Line. Deduct amount from 20 to 8 (width of back) from h of Hip Measure and apply result from N back to K on Hip Line. From 9 to 21 is 2 in. Draft curve from 12 through 14throughh21 (IS

Sleeve

down from These side from x.

notch

is

<!

in.

<>

in.

always

down from

apart and

placed

")

in.

n

14

'

at

the

-

18. coats

are

usually

left

open


FULL BOX COAT, PLATE

VII.


21

FULL BOX COAT. Measure. <JA

Width of Back.

Si

Depth

of Scye.

20

To Natural Waist. To Hip Line.

38

Long.

5

J

36

Bust Measure.

24

Waist Measure.

42

Hip Measure.

2

Incline.

FOUNDATION LINES Draw

construction line

line as a base line square

SIDE SEAM.

2, -and

1

across line

1

Place square on draft so as stars on square will meet those on draft and mark down A32 B32 D82

—E32 by depth I.'Wi

measure and F36

of scye

A

Place end of tape at

Waist Line, 20 in. to Bottom Line or whatever

to

Square

length

may

in

— 2 (except B

in.

1

3,

to

F

to

A

Draft curve

on line

to 4.

10 to

Hake=up

F;

4 through 9 through 8

from

Bottom

to

F

to 6;

6

to

29

is

from G, and

f-

in.

down and

forward

Add

in

1

.

Mark

SCYE.

in.

top

Sleeve

down from

to

from

1 1

through 18

Bust Line.

to

Bust Line

Hake=

Hake=up Line

of

draw

and

line

at

entire

button

placed

is

notch

7

in.

'i

always

is

in.

down from

apart and

placed

.'>

in.

%

in.

at

the

18. coats

are

usually

left

open

x.

AUTOMOBILE COAT.

forward

Draft curve from

and from 15

front

Space for three buttons back from edge.

side

from E to L on Bust Line (for 2 in. incline) from 4 to 12 is 2£ in., draw line from 12 through K to Bottom Line. From 12 to 15 is j in. 2|

f in.,

of coat.

These

ARM

in.

:'>

27.

(i

1

is

1

J

The

from I to 10. (For 2 in. incline) i Measure back from I width of shoulder from F to and draft curve to in.

and from 28 from 30 to 31 is in., draw line through i in. above 28 cut out V between

Bust Line and Hip Line

Line.

draft

square curve from

from bottom line on Line and draw line from 35 through J.

4;

SHOULDER. ?>2

28

to

in.

h

Mark down

length

Mark down F

From 27

27.

to

F 32 and

and

Line,

from 31 28 and 29.

up

<>.

to

Bottom

to

add 2 A in. for Make-up and square to Bottom Line. From 24 to 25 is f in. Draw line through 26 through 25 entire length of draft for riake=up Line.

From 10 measure down

Mark li in. back from 4 to 5 and square down Hip Line. From C to is I in., from 7 to 8 is U in. a line from

K

12 through

M

From

I!

Draw

curve from

FRONT.

forward to

5

square

Line.

be desired.

in.)

and

to

above B) and noting how far

(lii

M,

Deduct amount from 20 to 8 (width of back) from i of Hip Measure and apply result from N back to K on Hip Line.

BACK. Measure across width of back one in. above B to C and square down

Bust Meas-

of

(IS

Draft

and measure down 15 Hip Line, and 38 in.

lines across at right angles to line

all

ure down

in.

square this line down at right angles to line 1 each line extends. 1

— — — G36 — Ho(i

by bust measure.

From B mark up one

From L measure forward i in.) on Bust Line to to N on Hip Line.

using this 3.

Draft Automobile Coat

on page 22 same as Full Box Coat, plate vn, except to draw line from 3 through 28 and from 15 through 28 to 32.

From 28 desired.

to

32

is

7

to

1\

in.

Draft

lapel

as


AUTOMOBILE COAT, PLATE

VIIL


2a

SLEEVE. PLATE Measure jacket

or

and

pattern

where plain sleeve

arm seye

of

size

sleeve

arm seye of

of

size

is

IX.

in.

less

desired or draft sleeve

same

extra

if

sleeve

draft

fulness

'2

desired

is

in

head. First

paper

fold

on

evenly

construction

1—2.

line

Measure back from x on line

1

—3

and

of sleeve

\

3

points

to

Square down lines 3 and 4 to

waist,

coat,

line

1

Place part

fore

angles

at right

on sleeve so as

meet

will

from

seye)

of

1

6).

part

fore

(depth

J

(point

in.

1

4.

3.

Measure down and add

of sleeve

A

on

notch

and trace the arm seye of

notch

of

sleeve

(point

part

from 6

fore

6) to

7 on sleeve pattern.

Point

Point 7

is

8

in.

1A

is

1A

from

in.

construction

from point

2.

Measure down the length 7 on

line

7

—8

and add

and

at

wrist

of

amount

From back

in.

A

to

is

Measure

in

curve to

7.

in.

'1

13

to

3

from

in.

{

at

L

in.

to

amount

half

from

desired

T

point

half

down from

Measure

4.

and sweep from

at star

to

from point 3

is

in.

1

5

is

1

to

and from

12 and

13 to

in. in.

outside

10 and draft curve from 14 one quarter

inside

of

Hollow

L

10.

to

sleeve

\\

in.

on

and draft curved lines from 7 Cuff

may

and elbow.

wrist

Draft curve from 5 one quarter of

from

head of sleeve.

for

From 12 14

Hold

star.

sleeve

elbow to L.

at

line 1-3 square

6 through 3

draft

2,

measure back

desired

of

in.

1

Always measure lady Measure back from point

line.

is

in

each to

side

of

T

8.

addition to length of sleeve and

be drafted to

suit.


RAGLAN. PLATE

X.


25

RAGLAN. PLATE XL

Box Coat same

First draft Full

except 24

and add

draft

up

line

long,

20 and

and

down

vn.,

peak

of

2

from 21

omit

to

19

from

in.

22 draw

to

to

2

inches

28

to

as plate,

in.

lapel

length

full

of

through 20 and 22 and square line from 4

Hip Line

5

of from

instead

Hip Line.

to

BACK. 1

&

in.

1

is

from

R

13,

is

to

line

R

R, and from

and through 8

3

is

from

in.

i-

Draft curve from

4

10

| in. from C,

from C, 5

in.

5.

F through

and

11

through line 13

to

is

bottom of

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;7

10, at

and waist

draft.

FORE PART. Draw draft

from f

line

in.

below

I

and

to

18

up

from

curve.

RAGLAN

SLEEVE.

PLATE First

regular sleeve.

draft

From 4

9

to

is

and measure up from of shoulder

Draw curve from

F

from line

15

XI.

1 1

Square

in.

same amount

as

9

width

to 6.

from

to

i

15

to

3 and from 15

3 and from

15

to

6.

to

6


INCLINES. PLATE

NO

XII.

INCLINE.

2% UU 53

ONE INCH

TWO

o

UJ

INCLINE.

INCH INCLINE.

N<

â&#x20AC;¢*

^1


NO Measure forward from 4

12

to

Mark for

point

2|

13

from

I

E

from

in.

and from

back

INCLINE.

in.

L,

and 2|

in.

14.

to

£

point

for

on

line

I

—3

and drop

\

in.

A

in.

10.

ONE NCH INCLINE. I

E

Measure forward from from 4

to

12 and from

Mark down

i

in.

13

for

I

viy\

amount from 4

in.

12 and

to

Mark down

2\

f

in.

2

point

10.

IN CLINE.

from

from

and

L and

/b

T WO INCH Measure forward

point

for

14.

to

from

in.

"-'i

13

E to

forward ^

©

for

point

L

and same

14. in.

for point

10.


INCLINES. PLATE

XIII.

THREE INCH

INCLINE.

q

a:

FOUR INCH

INCLINE.

a:

GRADED

**

INCLINES.

sa

^1


THREE INCH INCLINE

^^ Measure

forward

amount from 4

1

in.

from

E

from

in.

12 and from

to

Mark down

2

I

13

for

point

L and same

14.

to

and forward

A in.

for point

10.

^^T FOUR INCH Measure

forward

same amount from 4

Mark down

to

1| in.

If

INCLI NE.

from

in.

12 and irom

from

I

E

for

point

13 to

14.

and forward

INCLINE.

f?^ Showing

all

inclines

in

one grade.

and the

f in. for point

*<?

GRADED

L

10.


DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK COAT. PLATE

XIV.


31

DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK COAT. Measure* GJ

Width

18

Length of Sleeve. Depth of Scye.

U

of Back.

16 A

36

FOUNDATION LINES

Measure down on base line 1 2 to Natural Waist (15 in and mark in amount of suppression )

in.

to

5.

Draw across

from

line

line

1

—3

at

Place square

mark down

through

1

A32—B32— D32—E32

Measure and

5

and

right angles to line on draft with stars to

F36

across

— G36 —

Measure. From B mark up

in.

1

1

square

—5.

meet and by Depth of Scye H36 136 by Bust

and dovn

1

BACK. C and

square down to 4, make width of back at waist (from 5 to 7) If in. and square down to bottom of draft at right angles to Waist Line. The line from C to 5 is used as a guide line only. C to 6 is A in. Draw line from F to I!, curve line from A to F; F to 6; 6 to 4; and from 4 through 13 to 7. Mark in 2 in. from 36 (same as suppression) and draw line from Hi. to 2, plait is 14, in. in width. <ii

in.

to

I

SHOULDER. Mark down F

32 from G, and f

in.

SIDE BODY.

from E to L (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 From 12 to 16 is in., from 17 to 18 to 14. in.

4,

is

1

Incline.

2

Suppression.

to 21 is 2.1 in., from 14 to 9 is 3 from Arm Scye through 9 and 21 draw to Bottom Line, from 21 to 24 is f in., draw line from Arm Scye through 23 and 24 to Bottom Line. From 24 to 26 is 2 , in., from 23 to 27 'iy2 is in. Draw line from 27 through 26 to Bottom Line. From 26 to 29 is f in., draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Add spring from 21, 24, 26 and 29.

line

1

FORE PART. Measure forward from M 2 and square down to Fashionable right angles to Bust Line. and

F

in.

for

i*lake=up

Waist Line

at

Hold tape at X (A- of distance between 14 9) and sweep from 25 to 28. Mark down 32 from 10 and square forward through sweep-

line.

Draft curve from 10 through 28. Measure forward from T A in. more than A From N add 2 in. for of waist measure to N. flake=up to P, take out amount from P to R (3i in. in this case) with two darts make small dart in. for f in. and large dart If in., which allowing seams of darts makes 3 A in. O is half of distance from 22 to 25. Top of large dart is 2A in. from O. 1

1

on is

Mark down F from Fashionable Waist Line Hake=up Line and draw line from 30 to F — 31 f up, from F draft curved line through 31 to 32.

Width of lapel at bottom is 2 in, If Waist, •">! in. at Bust and in. at Peak. Draft

lapel

from

and fashionable waist

in.

at

to

peak through bust bottom of draft.

waist

SKIRT. Draw line from 20 to 32, from 20 to 33 is square down from 33 at right angles to line 20 32 to bottom of skirt 34. Measure down 12 in. from 33 on line 33 34 for spring, and measure back 4 in. from X when Hip measures 6 in. more than Bust and add or deduct in. from this amount for each in the Hip is larger or smaller than Bust. Draft curve from 33 through 35 to bottom 2

ARM SCYE AND

2

From 19

in.,

down and

forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw I Measure back from 10 same line from 10 to F. amount as width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11.

2|

Hip Measure.

'.\

in.

Mark

Waist Measure.

42

inch.

f

Place end of tape at A and measure down L5 in. to Natural Waist Line, 16^ in. to Fashionable Waist Line, and 36 for full length of coat. Square all lines across (except B use in. up and f in. down instead) at right angles to line 1 and square all lines down at right angles to line 1 3, noting how far each line extends.

Measure across

Bust Measure.

24

To Natural Waist. To Fashionable Waist. To Length of Coat.

Lo

2

'><;

in.,

1,

in.

through 18 to Bust Line and from 16 to Bust Line. Measure forward of Bust Measure (IS in.) from L on Bust Line to M, from M measure back 4 of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet Draft curve from

1 1

of

skirt.

i.

Natural Waist Line

at

T.

Measure forward from T amount as width of back from 5 curve from

If in. the to 7, then

12 through 14 and 19

to

20.

same draft

Length from 33 8

to

38.

to

37

is

Square line from 34

the same as from front of skirt

to

angles to line 33 34. From 39 to 40 in., draft curve from 33 through 40 to 32. From 41 to 42 is 2 in., draft curve from

at

right

is

2

37 through 42

to

front

of skirt.


LADIES'

CUTAWAY COAT PLATE XV.


38

CUTAWAY COAT.

LADIES'

Measure. G{

Width of Back.

18

Length of Sleeve. Depth of Scye.

Si

36

To Natural Waist. To Fashionable Waist. To Length of Coat.

"' 1

Hi'.

30

FOUNDATION LINES

Draw across

from

line

1—3

line

through

1

5

and

square

right angles to line 1—5? Place square on draft with stars to meet and mark down A32— B32— D32—E32 by Depth of Scye Measure and across F36— G36— 136 by Bust J

4.

make width

and square down angles to Waist Line. The line from C If

in.

line only.

C

to 6

4 through

13

Mark to 1, plait is

in

U

to 1

h

is

A

curve line from

in.

of back

to 7.

in.

to

square down

F

5

is

to 6;

used as a guide from F to 6 6 to 4; and from line

from 2 and draw line from 16A

in. in

SHOULDER.

m _

32 from G, and f

in.

down and

forward from I to 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw from 10 to F. Measure back from 10 same amount as width of shoulder from F to 6 and draft curve to 11.

i

in.,

draw

line

SIDE BODY.

Mark 24. in. from E to L (for 2 in. incline) and the same amount from 4 to 12 and from 13 to 14. From 12 to 16 is i in., from 17 to 18 is

1

in.

Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line and from 16 to Bust Line. Measure forward A of Bust Measure (IS in.) from L on Bust Line to M, from M measure back A of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line at T

is

3

21

24

to

K

to

is

line

K

and

F

SKIRT. Draw

line from 20 to F, from 20 to 33 is square dowu from 33 at right angles to line 2U 32 to bottom of skirt 34. Measure down 12 in. from 33 on line 33— 34 for spring, and measure back 4 in. from x when Hip measures 6 in. more than Bust and add or deduct | in. from this amount for each in the Hip is larger or smaller thau Bust. Draft curve from 33 through 35 to bottom 2

ARM SCYE AND

draft

19 to 20 from 14 to 9 through 9 and

29 is 1 in. and from R from 29 to K. Draft curve from 29 \ in. inside of to bottom of draft. 1

Mark down F

same

Si in. in this case. Take out \ of this amount with bias dart for half fitting or entire amount with two darts for glove fitting. Mark down F from Fashionable Waist Line on Hake=up Line and draw line from 30 to F

From 28

width.

the

then

i„.

7

H

at

Draw

If to

M

waist (from 5 to 7) to bottom of draft at right

in.

F;

C and

to

Suppression.

Measure forward from 2 in. for riake=up and square down to Fashionable Waist Line at right angles to Bust Line. Mark down F 32 from 10 and square forward to nake=up Line. Draft curve from 10 through 28. Measure forward from T in. more than \ of waist measure to N. From N add 2 in Hake-up to P. The amount from P to R for is

BACK. to

2

FORE PART.

Measure across 6*

Incline.

.

and down f inch and measure down 5 in in.

Place end of tape at A 1 Waist Line, nil i„. to Fashionable Waist Line, and 30 for full length of coat. Square all lines across (except B use 1 in up and | m. dowu instead) at right angles to line 1—5 and square all lines down at right angles to line 1 3, noting how far each line extends.

Natural

to

2

is f in., draw and 24 to Bottom Line From 24 to 26 is 2y2 in., from 23 to 27 2 Draw lme from 27 through 26 to d :Y U Line. l. * Bottom From 26 to 29 is f in draw line from 27 through 29 to 30. Add spring from 21, 24, 26 and 29.

H36—

1

Hip Measure.

12 through 14 and From 19 to 21 is 2* in., m. draw line from Arm Scye to Bottom Line, from 21 to line from Arm Scye through 23

at

Measure. From B mark up

Waist Measure.

42

curve from

to 5.

in.

24

Measure forward from T amount as width of back from 5

Measure clown on base line 1 2 to Natural Waist (15 in.) and mark in amount of suppression 2

Bust Measure.

of

in .,

skirt.

Length from 33

8

to

38.

to

37

Square line forward

is

the same as from 34 at right

from

angles to line 33—34. From 39 draft curve from 33 through 40 to

to

F.

40

is

2

in


in

h < a.

> X

P <


35

JACKET WAIST. PLATE

XVI.

Measure Width

<;:.

Length

1

U Hi

Scye.

of

Waist.

Artificial

Length.

18

Full

36

Bust Measure.

24

Waist Measure.

Sleeve.

of

Depth

J,

Back.

of

Draft

same

as

except to omit

XIV.,

longer than

Double Breasted skirt

2

Incline.

2

Suppression.

Frock,

and make length

plate

1

in.

\

Fashionable Waist length.

ETON JACKET. PLATE

XVII.

Measure. Width

lii

8ÂŁ Depth

Draft

except

do

from 7

to x.

same

not

2

to

To Natural Waist.

16

Full

as

Vest,

back

plate at

xyiii,

15 and

M

is

page

mark

\

in.

Draft

T.

U

curve

to

from

10 and add

1

in.

M

is

tom

4

to

T

and

Waist Measure.

sweep

from

Incline.

\\

K

to

in.

below

K

and take out dart

Waist

is

desired \\

lines

of

Line, draft curve

7 and from 6

to

sidebody

in.

to

7.

dart

is

taken

8

to

desired

it

should

Waist,

plate

drafted

from

bot-

of draft.

glove fitting

be drafted same

page

in.

2

and curved

When 10

24

through

When

T.

from

7

in.

one-fourth of Bust Measure

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;32

Bust Measure.

From P add

3f>,

out at

F

36

2

Length.

in.

and square across

to

15

hollow

Mark down

M

of Scye.

from

From 12 and

Back.

of

14,

as

Glove

Eton

is

Fitting

IV.,

with lapel and front to suit style desired.


X w H -) 0,

S PQ W -J PQ

5 o Q

Ol,


37

SINGLE BREASTED VEST. PLATE

XVIII.

Measure 23

Length.

10

Opening.

-Si

Depth

•")

To Natural Waist.

1

Back Length.

HI.I

Scye.

of

•"><;

Bust Measure.

24

Waist Measure.

2

FOUNDATION Draw across

line

construction 1

Place

LINES.

line

1

FORE PART.

—2

and

square

From G measure down F 32, 10 is f in. down and \ in. forward from I. Measure back from I \ in. less than width of back from F to 6 and draft curve to 11. 13

3.

square

and mark down

on

draft

with

stars

A32—B32—D32—E32—

Scye Measure and by Bust Measure. of

Measure down

1

•">

across

in.

F36

A

from

G-'Wi

for

to

match

by Depth

— H36 — 136

forward from 10. Measure forward from 5 2] in. (for 2 in. incline) and square clown to bottom of draft. From 14 to 15 is \{ in., draw line from 12 through 15 to bottom of draft and add spring from 15. Measure forward from 12 one quarter of Bust Measure and add 2 A in. (point M) and square M

Waist Line 1

far

each

line

1

extends.

A

is

and HiA in. for length of back. Mark up in. from B and square all lines across at right angles in. above instead) 2 (except B square to line I and down at right angles to line 1 3, noting how

Incline.

in.

down

bottom

to

O

BACK. Measure across <>A in. on line 1 in. above B to C and square down to 4, 6 is A in. from Draw line from F to 6. C. Measure forward from E one-fourth of Bust Heasure net (point 5), square down 5 at right Through 7 to 8 from 7 to angles to Bust Line. x is A in. and from 15 to x is 1 in., draw line from 5 through X to bottom line and add spring from x to bottom line. Draft curve from A through E and x to bottom line and from A to F, F to 6, 6 through 4 to 5.

is

of draft.

in.

1

1

1

I

1

1

draft curve as desired from dart to 31.

DOUBLE BREASTED VEST. PLATE Draft same XVIII, in.

in,

from

of lapel.

Make

O

to

lapel 6.

XIX.

Single

make 12

except to

2A

as

from

K

from N, draft curve from

to

O.

Measure distance from A to F, place this amount at 10, measure down length of Vest and add in. (point O) and back up to the opening. Hold tape at L and sweep from M to T. Draft curve from through 18 to Bust Line. Measure from x to x on back, place this amount at 15 and measure across half of waist to N, from N to P is 2 in. From P to K is 4 A in. Take out two darts in. and one of 2A in., this with one of in. for seams of dart makes 4 A in. Draw line from 30 to N and from O to 3 1

Breasted

M

to

M

Mark up

to

5

1

in.

2

in. .">A

to

Vest,

plate

instead in.

and

20 for

of

If

seam


NEWMARKET, PLATE XX.


39

NEWMARKET. Measure. 6

A

Width

of Back.

Length

18

81 Depth

Full Length of Front (from 39 to 46).

•").")

of Scye.

Bust Measure. Waist Measure. Hip Measure.

36

To Natural

15 HI

A

To

1

—2

42

LINES.

Measure

— 2.

Measure clown Natural Waist (15 in.) and

construction line

on base line

24

Waist.

Artificial

FOUNDATION Draw

Waist.

to

1

amount of suppression 2 in. to Draw line from 1 through 5 and

mark

in

across

•">.

line

1

—3

right angles to line

at

I

square

—5.

Place square on draft with stars to meet and

A32— B32— D32—E32 by Depth of Scye Measure and F 36— G 36— H 36—1 36 by Bust mark down

Natural

Waist

A

and measure down

Line,

16

A in.

to

15 in.

Fashionable

Waist Line, 20 in. to Hip Line and 56 in. to Bottom Line. From B mark up in. and down 1

inch.

Square

lines across (except

all

B use

1

in.

up

and | in. down instead) at right angles to line 1 and down at right angles to line 1 3, noting how

each line extends.

BACK. 1

in.

C

is

to

7

Measure across width of back (<>A in.) on line above B to C and square down to 4. 6 to \

Make width

in.

of back at

waist

(from 5

and square down through 31 to bottom angles to Waist Line. The line from C to 5 is used as a guide 54 is in. from 56, draw line from onlv.

1

If in.

of draft at right

line

1

Artificial

Waist

(16£

in.)

to

54.

Plait

is

1

J.

in.

wide which allows for turning in f in. for facing. Draw line from F to 6, draft curved line from A to F; F to 6; 6 to 4; and 4 to 7.

SHOULDER. Mark down F j

in.

forward from

from 10 to F. of shoulder from F

-">2

I

line

of

Bust Measure

to

from G, and £ in. down and 10 (for 2 in. incline) draw Measure back from 10 width 6 and draft curve to 11. to

ARM SCYE AND Mark

SIDEBODY. F to L on Bust Line

from and the same amount from 4 to 12 and 13 to 14. From 12 to 16 is \ in. strong in. from 17 to 18 is Draft curve from 1 1 through 18 to Bust Line and from 16 to Bust Line. 2J

in.

incline)

1

(18

from L on Bust Line to M and square down to N on Hip Line. From M measure back h of Bust Measure to wherever it may meet Natural Waist Line marked T. Measure forward from T If in. the same amount as width of back from 5 to 7, then square down to x at right angles to Waist Line, x to 21 is in., 54 to 55 is 1A in. 1

to

19 and 21

55.

From 19

from 14 to 9 is 3 in., draw line from Arm Scye through 9 and 8 to 22, from 8 to 24 is f in., draw line from Arm Scye through 23 and 24 to 25. Measure from N to 25, 22 to 21 and from m. and as 31 to 32, you will find this gives 17 half of Hip Measure is 21, add li in. from 25 to 36 and 2| in. from 22 to 35. Draft curve from 8 through 35 to bottom of draft and from 24 through 22 to bottom of draft. From 23 to 27 is -)i in. from 24 to 26 Draft curve from 27 through 26 to 30. is 3 in. draft curve from Hip Line from 26 to 29 is \\ 27 through 29 to 30. to

8

is

2

J,

in.,

FORE PART. From square down

M to

add 2A in. Hip Line.

Hold tape

for

at star (half

9) and sweep from

37

Hake=up Line and way between 14 and

to 39.

From 10 measure down F 32 and square forward to Hake=up Line. From 39 to 40 is A in. Draw line from 11 through 18 to O, from O to P in., draw line from P through 40 to 41 for is 2 in. From 42 peak of lapel, from 40 to 41 is Draft curve from K at Waist Line in. to 43 is 1

,

:'>.V

1

through 43

(for 2 in.

A

Draft curve from 12 through 14,

Place end of tape at

far

forward

in.)

Measure. to

Length of Back.

Full

56

of Sleeve.

to

Bottom

of Draft.

to 44 and from 37 to 45 is 3 in. 41 through 45 and 44 to Bottom from draft curve of Draft. Measure front length on lady from front collar button to bottom of skirt and apply amount you get from 39 through 37, K and 43 to Bottom of

From 43

Draft, 46 and draft curve from 55

to

46.


FULL LENGTH BOX COAT. PLATE

XXJ.


41

^

at

HOOD,

dt <£

+i-.sV *-.:>•:..*

PLATE

^

XXII.

Measure

This

36

Bust Measure.

2o

Measure over Head.

measure

taken

is

shoulder point over head 1

—3,

Draw from

right

at

I

From

I

measure forward to

line

1

at

shoulder point.

to

construction line

angles

from collar seam

—3.

—2 F

and square across 36, square down F

measure down C 36 and mark up \% from 4 measure down half the amount over head, square line C and 2. From x, measure across C 36 to Y, from 2 measure across D 36, from D mark down F 36. From 1 to 7 is in., from 7 to 8 is f in., from 5 to 6 is Draft curve from f in. through 1—3 line 8 and Y to F, from 8 through 6 to 4 and from 2 to F. in.

1

to point 4,

1

COLLARS. Draft brake line from edge of coat at first button through point 10, add width of top of back from A to F and Jin. (amount from 10 to I), make stand from half in. and leaf from 1 to 3 two to 1 to 2 one and three inches.

Draft curve from 2 meeting gorge line at brake to 4, point is

4

is

%

in.

according to style.

below gorge

line,

from 4

to

5

Draft line from 3 to 5. *J*tJt"t*

AUTOMOBILE COLLAR. Draw

construction line

2, from 2 to 3 is 1^ from 3 to 4 is in., from 3 to 5 is % in. more than neck gorge (plate rv), from 28 to 10 and F to A. From in.,

5

1

1

6

', in., from 5 to 1 2 is My, is in. Draft curve 12 to 4 and from 6 to 4, draw line from 4 through 2 to 9, square line from 5 through 6 to 7, from 7 to 8 is 2 in., draft line from 8 through 7 to

to

1

from

9, 11

add

is 4.1

H

in.

in. from 7, draw line from 11 to 12 and on each side of 1 1, draft curve from 2 to 14

as desired.

FULL LENGTH BOX COAT. Draft same as plate vn, page 20, except 56 in. in. front length (to bottom of dress)

back length and Mark 36 in. F from .").">

i

in.

R

and

draft curve

inside of waist line through

20

from Bust Line to F,

mark E 36

from R and draft curve from 4, one quarter inch inside of 9 through 7 to E. From 13 to 14 is in. square line to hip line from 14 and take out dart of 1^ in. at Waist Line. :i

*


w

Waist

Band 2 tin.

tin.


43

&

SHIRT WAIST. a s

dt

•w*SOS**»

For

Silk,

Wool,

or

Washable Goods,

PLATE XXIV.

Measure Length of Sleeve.

18

8^ Depth 1

<

J

A

Full

Seve.

of

across

24

Waist Measure.

F36

— Go<i — H36 — 136

by Bust

From B mark up

1

FRONT. From L measure

Bust neasure From M square to to Bust Line. Mark down F 36 from G and i + down and + forward from I to 10. Draw line from 10 to F and across

T

+ th of

aud add 3 /2'in. point M. bottom of draft at right angles I

in.

'

Place end of tape at A and measure down full length (Ki'j) for Bottom Line. Square all lines across at right angles to line 1 2 (except B square this line in. above B) and down at right angles to line 1 3.

Measure.

Incline.

2

Measure.

1

BACK. Measure across width of back (G*4 in to C) in. above B and square down to 4 Bust on 'ine 1

Line.

From C to 6 is ^in. draw line form F to 6. From 4 to R is %va.. square from R to bottom From 20 to 21 is 2 r2 in. draft. Draw line from arm scye through R and 21 to 1

of

Bust

Length.

Draw line 1 2 and using this line as a base square across line 1 3. Place square on draft with stars to meet and mark down A32— B32— D32—E32 by Depth of Scye

neasure and

36

bottom of draft and curve line from arm R and 21 to bottom of draft.

size

through

measure back from 10, width of shoulder from F to 6. From 16 to 18 is in. draft curve, from 11 through 18 to Bust Line. Hold tape at R and sweep from M to 9. Mark down F 32 from 10 and square forward through sweep 1

line.

Mark down B 32 from N, draw line from 2 through B and draft curve from 2 through 1 3 and B to front of draft.

From M to 12 and B to 14 is in. for button draw line through 12 to 14 and sweep from 12 Measure from 2 to 21 place this amount at 8 and measure across one half of Waist Measure to O, from O to P is 2 in. for make-up, from P to X is 4 in. in this For lining or foundation take out this amount case. with dart allowing J 2 in. for seams of dart. For fulness or plaiting add 2 in. from 12 to 16 and in. from 14 to 17, omit dart altogether, gather on to waist band from 1 3 to B and gather in to neck band from 9 to 10. 1

stand,

,

From R to L is 2j^in. (for in. incline) square bottom of draft, from 7 to 8 is T 4 in. Draw line L from L through 8 to bottom of draft. Draft curve from L through 8 to bottom of draft. Draft curve from A to F, F to 6, 6 through L to Bust Line. Raise 34 in. at point L (so that fore part will be proper length for back) and draft from this point to Bust Line. '1

to

in.

1

i'

*H»|*Tt*

BLOUSE WAIST. PLATE Draft same as Shirt Waist above, except to distance from

4

1

,

in.

%l4

in.

L

to

M

make

Bust Measure aud Bust Measure aud

one-fourth of

instead of one-fourth of

XXIII.

Waist band for button stand.

Bust Line for lapel.

Omit

dart altogether and full on to waist

baud for

from 13

to 14.

V

for

is

Draw

line

from

I 1

1

in.

more

through 18

to

19 and draw line from 19 through 22

From 22

from 22

cut size of waist and

to

to

24.

23

is

4

1

,

in.,

take out

%

in.


THREE PIECE

SKIRT,

PLATE XXV.

25 in

6in.


45

THREE

OR CIRCULAR

PIECE

SKIRT.

ym^

Measure '24

Waist Measure.

41

Hip Measure.

FOUNDATION Draw

construction line

a base, square across line

mark

Mark

clown

across

C-'-t

1

1

—2

in.,

25

and

sizes)

(all

in.

across 24 again from C,

C and measure down

4.'!

Side

45

Back Length.

V

to

than

and II

half

more make darts

larger, should

1

—2

how

lines across at right angles

all

and down

angles to line

at right

(20 A

From

M

From

O

to

N

13

mark

to

46

is

Hip Heasure

(all

in.

C41

across

is

sizes).

P

to

Hip

(by

Heasure.) line

Draw

line

D

from from

through P

R

through

C

to

bottom

to

X

to

3

Y

through

T

to

V

is

f

bottom

of

and from

V

to

to

11

is

is

•">

2

in.

in.,

in.

this

more or

From

R

4

this

on

less

as

to

is

top cut

in.

and from 45

to

47

Plait, should separate plait be

for

is

3

45.

to

out on

from

line

R

through

N

Draft.

of

For Circular Skirt open goods and place this with

pattern

Draft

curve from

K

entire

43 — 47 lengthwise line

pattern.

and 43

8

make

on goods from

of goods.

C

to

43 and around

K.

on

DARTS. From 7

from 45

45,

from 43 through 44

Bottom

of draft.

R.

to

to

44, measure

curve

Mark From

for trail

in.,

-'5

in.,

draft.

Draft curve from

N

line

to

Draft

placed to

Draw

make

desired.

across half of

is

Y

Measure Side Length from

M.

to

in.)

less

noting

far each line extends.

From L measure

more

line

to

—3,

1

in.

9,

measures

it

measure

it

to

darts smaller.

6

Back Length from R, or Square

%

1

measure, provided

waist

of

8

7,

to

R, this should give

to

length.

full

in.

Length.

Apply Waist Measure from C 10

1,

B24 from C and C24 from B by Waist Measure. Place end of tape at

44

Length.

WAIST MEASURE.

and using this as

— 3.

C

1,

Front

LINES.

C24 (by Waist /Measure) from from

43

from 9

to

10

is

H

in.

opposite

skirt,

to

will

Then

turn pattern

over

so

that

C

meet and mark around entire pattern side.

This makes only one

namely from 4

45 without

plait.

to

47 with

plait,

or

seam from

in

R


FIVE-GORED SKIRT. PLATE XXVI.

ZSitt.

6 In.


47

FIVE GORED SKIRT. y^:

Measure 24

Waist Measure.

41

Hip Measure.

FOUNDATION Draw

construction line

a base, square across line

Mark down C24 mark

C24 from

across

C

1,

—2

and using

Side

45

Back Lengili.

From 7

this as

3.

and 25

in.

(all

and 43

sizes)

10

R, this should give

to

1

—2

how

and down

at

right angles to line

waist measure, provided

From

M

From

O

N

in.

,

Hip fleasure

across half of

across

D

line

from

Draw

line

from

46

C41

to

P

(by

is

3

from

line

in.

Add

Hip

through P

R

through

to

N

bottom to

of draft.

for

bottom

plait

or cut

on separate

less

make

T

to

44

or

line

make

from

R

Draft curve from

to

R.

can be varied

(this

N

T

to

44, measure from

45,

to

more or

this

and 45

through on line

less

45 as

is

C f

to in.

on each side

K. Draft

curve from

K

add of

1

in.

45 and

of

R N

whatever width to

45 and put

plate.

from 43 through 44

For curved or flounced

V

darts smaller.

or side gore larger or smaller).

trail,

Draft curve

of

draft.

through

of

desired.

Draw

V

more than half

13 in. (all sizes).

is

mark

to

9,

measures more make darts

it

measure

Back Length from R,

desired

T

8

7,

to

Measure Side Length from

Heasure.)

From

to

noting

to to

it

making back

suit

to

— 3,

I

M.

(20 A in.) to

l

1

line

to

far each line extends.

From L measure

2 in.

is

full length.

in.

lines across at right angles

all

10

to

<;

Draw Square

and from 9

3 in.

is

Apply Waist Measure from C

across 24 again from C,

C and measure down

8

to

WAIST MEASURE.

larger, should in.,

Length.

1,

B24 from C and C24 from B by Waist Measure. Place end of tape at

44

Length.

DARTS.

Waist Measure) from

(by

Front

LINES. I

1

4.">

of

P and

N

and

effect A

mark

in.

on each side of 44 and 47 draft curve accordingly.

to

inside

45. in

f

of

in.

48,

and outside


SEVEN GORED SKIRT. PLATE

25171.

XXVII.

6irv.


49

SEVEN GORED SKIRT. Tffi^

Measure '24

Waist Measure.

41

Hip Measure.

FOUNDATION Draw

construction line

a base, square across line

Mark down C24 mark

C

1,

in.,

and

2.">

in.

Square 1

—2

how

and down

at right

8

7,

to

to

9,

across

10 from

again from C,

'24

in.

angles to line

\

1

in.

2

more than

half

of

larger, should

it

measures more make darts

it

measure

less

line

make

to

46

is

make

3 in. for trail,

N

line

darts smaller.

T

Measure Side Length from

Back Length from R, or

to

—3,

1

R, this should give

waist measure, provided

6

length.

full

to

1,

to

this

44, measure

to

from 45

45,

more or

less

as

noting desired.

far each line extends.

From L measure U'o.l

Back Length.

Apply Waist Measure from C

lines across at right angles

all

45

3.

and 43

sizes)

(all

Side Length.

WAIST MEASURE.

C and measure down

Place end of tape at

44

Length.

and using this as

C and C24 from B by Waist Measure.

from

Bi'4

C24 from

across

—2

Waist Measure)

(by

Front

LINES. 1

1

4.">

in.)

M.

to

From

M

to

N

is

O mark

From

in.

1.3

(all

curve from

Draw

line

9 and 10 through

sizes).

C41

across

Draft

P

to

(by

Hip

Heasure.)

V

line

Draw

line

D through P to bottom of draft. from R through X to bottom of

from

W

45.

to

from

K

47 from

half

wav between

M

44 and from

half

way between

to

and 11 through 40

side of P,

Draw

43 through 44

Hip Pleasure

across half of

to

to

41, take out f

and 40 and inside

of

48 add

each side of 47, 44, 41 and outside of

on each

in.

4

in.

45 and

on

draft

curves accordingly.

draft.

C

Draft curve from

From through

V

T

to

to

Y

is

f

to

K.

in.

Draft

SPECIAL NOTICE. curve from

K

skirt pattern

cut so that a bias

DARTS. From 7

When

is

R.

to

8

is

3 in.

and from 9

to

10

is

2 in.

edge

will

placed on goods

seam with a

straight edge except in centre of back.


k

>


51

DIVIDED SKIRT. ^ ^

<£ dt

PLATE

XXVIII.

Measure

CONSTRUCTION Draw

line

1

square across line

From 2 \20h

in.)

— 2 and —3.

L

to

41

Hip Measure.

33

Length.

From

LINES.

using

this

base

a

as

L

Hip Measure

M

to

is

bottom

to

is

off

to

7

is

4

from

in.),

4

to

is

5

to

is

Waist Measure

Waist Measure Waist Pleasure

of

of

from 4

to

8

is

from 5

in.),

(5

from

(3 in.),

1

one-fourth of

is

in.,

1

Waist Measure

Measure

6

from

12

to

3

to

(4

is

21

20

•">

in.

is

one-eighth

is

'

2

of

of

to

19 to 22

24

is

'

b

is

in.,

1

through 8

to

1

1

10

to

12 and from 12

1 1

through 25

in.,

from 17

to

8

is

1

is

2

9 through 24

1 1

to

Waist Pleasure should

it

12.

15

to

skirt to

1

5,

16

to

16

8

17,

and

2

in. for

seams (14

measure more make darts larger and

should measure less

make

—3 noting

li

is

This should measure half

(12 in.)

darts smaller.

26

on line

I

— M to 33.

26 and from 7 to

to 27.

27.

and from

to

how

This Skirt

if

it

down

at

right angles to line

far each line extends. is

made

14— 28

in three pieces

and 17—26,

this

and should forms side

piece.

7—27

forms

plaits in

back

prevents any appearance of skirt being divided

when

Balance of draft from 8

of

in.)

points

all

be cut on line to

—24 by

to 19.

Measure length of

Waist

in.

Measure Waist from 14 and from 9

from

in.,

B

(3 in.),

19 and from

to

11

to

to 7.

14

to

is

draft.

on square.

Draft curve from

1

From 13

measure

in.)

is

Square

9

at

in.)

Draft curve from 33 through 1

(2o.l

bottom of

from 22 to 25

in.)

Draft curve from

to

th of waist

Measure same amount from 17 (3

Hip Measure

from 3 through 21

line

waist measure

to

so as to be

in.,

((I

from 10

in.),

from 23

H

is

— 28

of

— 2.

one-third

from 8

to 9,

to

From is

Waist Measure

and the same amount from 5 one-sixth of

7

from

in.)

(8

to

one-eighth

is

7

to

from 20

Draw

6

to

14

top

for plaits.

(12

than one-fourth of

less

in.

1

From 19

Waist Pleasure

one-half of

placed on

is

Square across from 2 through 19 and 20

of

right angles to lines 1

it

not

is

at will.

draft.

From

width of fore part this

buttoned down seam

From 12

M

through

1

taken

in.

1

13

to

1

included in waist measure as skirt, to be

one-half of

is

from

line

Waist Measure.

1

and from

Draw

22

a skirt for each

lad\- is

©

standing.

leg

26

and fulness of

to


^ RIDING HABIT SKIRT PLATE XXIX.

^e


53

RIDING HABIT SKIRT. ««o**<»

Measure

FOUNDATION Draw a

construction line

base square line

From From

in.)

4

to

1

2

to

I

1

'

—2 —

From 5

of waist measure

From 2

6

to

is

£ in.,

9

to

using this as

Hip Pleasure

LOi

(

from 5

8

to

7

to is

is

in.),

from 24

and

2

measure

one-eighth

from 8

to

1 1

(3

From 9

12

to

1

Draft curve

1.

25 through 26

from 32 to 33

should be placed.

Measure and

line to

one half of

is

added (13

in.

1

15

Waist

1

16

to

1

larger and

(20^

from 18

to

19

Waist Pleasure

Draft curve from

(3 in.), <i

in.,

from 20

20

to

to

21

I in.

added

to

15 to

18

is

1

in.

(3 in.)

one-eighth of

is

one-fourth of

(4

J,

is

in.),

1

in.

(

2

1

1

more

(!)

in.

one-third of waist measure and

1

in.), .\

in.

is

one-third of

from 22 (!).\

in.)

to

V

36

26

to

24

from

31

to

is

in.

.',

is

29

in.,

1

Apply

in.

.">

30, 31

to

40

to

line

42

to

make

size

darts smaller.

Hip Pleasure

one-half of Hip Measure

From 36 from 37

to

to

37 38

36 is

is

Draft curve from

angles to line

line to

hollow

1

in.

1

at right

one-half of one-sixth of

28 through

28—35, from 35 (!)

.1

in.

to

40

is

in.)

bottom of draft

at right

angles to

on each side of T, draft curve to

43 and from 25

to

bottom of draft 44, cut

throuo-h

43.

Square line from 18 this line.

Measure length of to

full

Bottom of Draft 39, square across from 35

at right

35—40,

more than

in.

one-half of is

in.)

one third of Waist and

12

1

25 and from

to

square down from

in.),

Waist Measure (4

2

less

is

(20.1 in.),

Waist Pleasure Waist Measure

23

35

Hip Measure

one-sixth of waist measure to

to

35—36.

through on

from 22

23

is

measure more make darts

it

from 25 through 40 and 41

19 and from 19 to 17.

is

22

Waist Measure and is

to

draft curve 21 to 17.

From 20 and

from 15

.

one-eighth of waist measure

is

From 18

1£ in

is

from 34

in.,

from 35 to

Square 16 to 17

:;

measures

if it

in.),

(4 in.)

From

28

to

from 30

is 3 in.,

angles to line

to

one-sixth of

is

is

29

of waist (26 in.), should

36 and 38

in.)

Draft curve from 8 to 15.

From

from 27

one-eighth of

is

32, 33 to 34 and 26 to 28.

to

and

Line 13 to 14 simply shows where chamois skin

From blank

to

From 28

Draft curve from 6 to 12.

in.)

27

to

to 28.

From 23

to II.

one-sixth of waist measure (4

is

in.,

This should measure one third of waist

square down to point

and from 6

from 26

in.),

waist measure from 15 to 19, 21 to 23,

Hip Measure

to first line across is

(8 in.),

is

1

Waist Pleasure and

in), square across from point 9.

From 4

26

to

(K)

in.

Waist Pleasure and in. (!) one-third of Waist Pleasure

one-third of

is

Draft curve from 21 to 23,

in.

.1

25

to

at right angles to line

one-eighth of

is

Length.

right angles to line

at

from 7

(3 in.),

59

Pleasure).

and square down point 4

«*.

Hip Measure.

3.

Square across point 2 1

41

24

— 2 and

1

C 41 (Hip

is

Waist Measure.

LINES.

one-fourth of

is

24

skirt from 15 to 8,

45 and from 28 through 36

From 24

to

43

is

Draft curve from

6 through

to 39.

10 in. less than length.

45 through 44

— 43

to

39.


54

<j£

%5C

<j£

LA r H

.

PLATE XXX.

«£

v^5

«e£


CAPE.

SQUARE.

<7ftr

<?f^

Measure. Stand lady

front

in

front shoulder (point

10)

of

PLATE XXXI.

mirror, place

tape

at

and measure over shoulder

and down along arm full length may be desired and take usual measures for waist. First draft waist pattern same as plate iv, page 14, and place pattern on paper so that point F on back and point 10 on shoulder and point 6 on back and point 1 1 on shoulder will meet. Draft from 10 to 28 and down, sweep through 25 and K to bottom of draft. Draft from F to A and from A down back through 15J4 to bottom of draft. From 10 measure down length of Cape on line 25 K and hold at 10 and sweep from M to N.

OJ

en

The above want

gives full

less drapery,

point 6 and

military cape,

when you

back and shoulder together in. apart from F to 10 and

place

and mark around back from 6 to F, F to A and A through 15 to bottom of draft. Should you wish still less fulness, cut in front of waist 2 in. from 10 back to 2 in. from 6 and open frcnt on this line, after front is opened cut the same as you opened back (from 10 to F). Mark down line 25 K and around bottom same as you did back, this takes out two darts on each shoulder and makes a perfect fitting golf cape. Add li in. from 28 to 29, 25 to 26 and at

1

''>

I

Co

Oi

M

P

to

26

(for

to

button stand).

Draft line from

29 through

P. to

2 ty=t

This Square of

which

(a

duplicate

furnished

is

with t

this

Text Book)

reduction of

is

a one-fourth

square and will apply plates

in

the same

square large

box

skirts.

the

to

Text Book

manner used

drafts,

length

and

this

is

wood

large box

that in

except coat,

in

large

making to

full

newmarket

lit -s -a

10 ±±± ±ii

±±±

I

12

13

±±± ±±±


LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

** <&

INDEX,

**

s

013 973 188 8

TE Depth

Application of

of Scye.

Automobile Coat Blouse Waist Collars

Cape Double Breasted Jacket Double Breasted Front

Double Breasted Vest Divided

Skirt

Eton Jacket Fly Front Jacket Full

Box Coat

Full Length

Box Coat

Five Gored Skirt

General Remarks

Glove Fitting Waist

Graded Inclines Habit Skirt Half Fitting Box Coat

Hood Inclines

0,

Inclines,

2

1,

3,

4

Jacket Waist Ladies'

Cutaway

Measure

New Market Raglan Raglan Sleeve Sleeve Single Breasted Vest Shirt Waist

Seven Gored Skirt Square

Tight Fitting Jacket

Three Piece Skirt Waist

for Stout

Lady


.

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS I

II

III

III

n

mm

i

i

n ....

ii

M

013 973 188 8

I

»

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