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Ladies Garments
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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.
Chap.X
Copyright No
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V
Superlative System .OF.,
(utting [odies'
Garments
.BASED UPON.,
A
SCIENTIFIC, GIVING THE
SURE
AND
SIMPLE
METHOD
CORRECT PROPORTIONS FOR EACH TYPE OF FORM OF
EVERY
SIZE,
WITH VARIATIONS FOR ALL KINDS OF
DISPROPORTIONATE SHAPES AND FORMS
BYl
CHAS.
J.
CHICAGO,
STONE ILL.
ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES OF FINELY ENGRAVED DIAGRAMS, WITH FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE VARIOUS STYLES OF LADIES' GARMENTS
PUBLISHED BY
THE CHAS.
J.
STONE
CO. CUTTING SCHOOL CHICAGO
1^
Copyrighted 1897 by Chas.
J.
Stone
C'o
^^
^GO\C
INDEX, PAGE.
PAGE.
The Melon
6
Preface, 
Introduction,
.
Proportion Table,
;
and
Sleeve,
59
B. Box Overcoat, by Short Measure
8
S.
9
Coaching Coat, by Proportions,
6061 62 63
Proportionate Division,
1013
Capes,
Proportion
1415
Bicycle Coat, by Proportions,
7071
Dress Bodice, by Shoulder Measures,
1617
Cycling Knickers,
7273
Dress Bodice, by Short Measure,
1819
Divided Riding
7475
Basque, by Shoulder Measures,
2021
Bicycle Skirt,
D. B. Frock,
2223
Divided Bicycle
Fancy Waist, by Proportions,
2425
Bicycle Cap,
77
Jacket and Vest, by Proportions,
2627
Leggins,
78
D. B. Vest, by Proportions,
2829
Riding Breeches,
7.879
Cutaway Frock, by Shoulder Measures,
3031
Riding Jacket,
8081
D. B. Cutaway Jacket, by Proportions,
3233
Riding Skirt,
in Practice,
Long Basque and
Vest,
Principles of Sleeve Cutting,
The Foundation
Riding
by Shoulder Measures, 3435
Skirt,
Skirts,
64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69
Skirt,
76 Skirt,
77


Skirt,
8485, 8687 8889, 9091
Variations,
36, 37. 38, 39
General Information,
4041
9293
Our Cutting School,
42, 43. 44, 45
8283
94
4647
Price List of Patterns, Ladies',
4849
Works on
5051
Terms
The Leg of Mutton Sleeve,
5253
Price List of Block Patterns, Gentlemen's,
98
The New Bishop
5455
Cutters' and Tailors' Supplies,
99
D. B. Jacket,
The
Balloon Sleeve,
D. B. Jacket, by Shoulder Measure,
Sleeve,
D. B. Coat, by Proportions,
5657
(V,

Cutting,
for Instructions,
95
96 97
PREFACE, jCTT
is
J^
a fact
This fact is
which observing
tailors will doubtless
tailoring has of late years
marked
is
emphasized by the realization of cutters and
on the part of many
inability
garments
ladies'
experienced this
have noticed, that
grown more and more important
in the best difificulty
Many
manner.
â€”a
to
ladies'
to the trade.
tailors that there
meet the demand for the making of tailors
difficulty arising
and hundreds of cutters have
from the absence of any adequate
system of ladies' garment cutting as well as making. It is to
be regretted that works of this nature are lacking.
many works
there are
treating of this subject;
exacting demands of today? ples,
I
think not.
Even
is
true that
Are they founded on true and invariable princi
which cutters can implicitly
sweep?
It
but are they adequate to the
rely
upon
in their daily
work
in all its
range and
the very best existing works on the cutting of ladies'
garments, which assume to have for basis a fundamental principle, are soon
found
to
be lacking in one respect or another.
these are based on an inadequate
system only half perceived and I
believe that
my
works on cutting
and simplicity it
is
In point of fact, too
many
now and
again abandoned in
for the defects fills
of
not a wrong system, the best of them upon a its
application.
"Superlative Method of Cutting Ladies' Garments"
work which not only makes up nality, exactness
if
a
found
want long
felt
in others,
by
but in
Like
cutters.
is
a
its
origi
my
other
based on proportions, using for variations both shoulder
measure and short measure methods, and makes an invaluable companion work to
my
"Superlative System of Cutting Men's Garments."
most comprehensive work extant, covering
all
It
is,
I
believe, the
points in cutting ladies' garments.
THE AUTHOR.
(VI.)
INTRODUCTION. ยงERHAPS
other branch of tailoring can a system based on the pro
in nr
portions of the body be so well applied as in the making of ladies' garments.
Perfect
woman, and
quite inexcusable in a
many
defects of form and the
There
and grace
fit
the desideratum;
is
the
is
it
difficulties
found
tailor's
in
awkwardness
for
is
object to overcome
all
making her garments.
no more beautiful garment than a gown gracefully draped over
is
the form of a
woman, and there
so far as the tailor
is
Women
proportions.
clothing than men.
is
no better method of arriving
at
end,
this
concerned, than the employment of a system based on
more exacting and particular
are
They demand not
so
much
utility as
in
respect to their
beauty.
They demand
perfection in their dress in every pose, every condition, without constraint of
limb or muscle, which would detract from grace; in a word, they demand perfect ease,
well
unincumbered, which
free,
The attainment
of
this
only obtainable with well
volume.
employment
allows for
It
making of
cutting and
all
all
which
skill
art of constructing
costumes
in the
is
artistically attained
garments according
suit
by the system of proportions. to the variable
forms and
The
basis of the system
is
styles
determinate, but the style and
always fluctuating, and the cutter must learn the principles embodied
system so that he can bring them into a practical application
day practice
The
made
an attainment that can not be reached without deep study and
is
actual experience.
fashion
the
in
parts of ladies' garments, allowing adherence to pre
demanded and only
is
The
it
of the system explained in the pages of
possible variation, originality and
vailing styles, to individual wishes, and that certain unity in a tailor
of
and
fitting
rather difficult for the cutter and tailor, but
all this is
greatly simplified by the
is
is
made garments.
in cutting
garments according
fundamental principle
upon which
in his
every
to the current fashion. this
system
is
based
is
the propor
tionate division of the female form, and the study of these proportions will give
the cutter a most comprehensive understanding of the foundation that he
build on.
The proportionate
overerect and
when
all
figures
is
the different lengths correspond with height, and
when
all
the different widths correspond with the breast circumference, the figure
be
tall
and
sliro
or short and stout and
to
are those that are neither stooped nor
still
(VII.)
be
in proportion.
may
INTRODUCTION.
vin.
There I
be found in this work two kinds of proportionate drafts, to which
will
The proportionate
wish to call the cutter's attention.
By
by the strap and shoulder measures. as follows
shoulder
ponds
we
that the
find
23^^, half of this
is
11^,
is
proper length of strap
page 2021
at
will
N
point
is
less
strictly
is
is
drafted
the upper
proportionate;
one inch makes
10 J^, which corres
it
M
C
the
on page
17,
from
line
to
obtained.
be found another draft similar
the only difference being in
17
the comparison of the two measures
length
measure taken, and by drawing the
to the strap
On
strap
on page
draft
the depth
At
of scye.
to the draft
first
glance
it
would seem
that the two drafts
had been produced by two
observation
be found that they are both the same in principle, although
a different is
it
will
method has been used
that the shoulder
seam on
methods, but on closer
different
same result. The only
in obtaining the
the draft on page 21
shoulder seam on draft on page 17 at point X.
is
By studying
The
}^ inch, or is
distance from
A
to
B
is
normal
}^ inch,
strap,
On
C
M
B
to
below top
C
to
is 14^
seen at a
breast, plus
A
used to obtain depth of scye, breast plus
':(
}<
to
C
The
inch.
by the shoulder measure.
17, 19, 21, 29, 31, ^^, 47, 51
line
and
71 are all laid out
drawn from point
is
line of draft as
M
to
C,
shown on diagram on
pages 15, 25, 57 and 81, the front shoulder point comes up to top line
is
drawn from
T
diagram of proportions on page
making
to Z, thus
longer than in the other method. tlie
is
scye
17.
of draft as explained in line
and
and from B
height,
is It
and the closing shoulder
thus locating shoulder point
page
B
in this case regulated
The diagrams on pages for a
to
the upper shoulder measure
if
upper shoulder and
yi
A
distance from
on pages
the draft
14 and 15 the different methods of obtaining the depth of glance.
difference
higher at point 17 than the
average
}4
It is
on
[)ages
14
and
but when shoulder measure and strap measure the system as laid out in
illustrations
according to measures as explained
method
The
short measure
The
table of proportions
is
is
where the shoulder
found that the majority of ladies are on
inch erect and for the average form
as laid out in the illustration
15,
the front length of strap fully yi inch
15 is
it is
when
fully explained
method
cutting by proportions,
used for variations then
on pages 17 and
in variations
well to use the
21,
on pages 88
I
use
and make changes to 91.
on pages 1819 ^^^ 6061.
not of the ideal form, but of the average.
The
circumference measurements are taken from the breast, and the length from the height, as follows: If the breast
is
opposite that breast measure, and
34, all circumference if
are found opposite that height scale.
the height
is
measurements are found
5 feet 6 inches all the lengths
PROPORTIONATE SCALE OF AVERAGE MEASUREMENTS. HEIGHT
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OV CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
PROPORTIONS. nv Chas.
THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT. and professors of
artists
anthrojjology, its
end of the big toe contains eight faces or heads, and on this theory they divide the human form into eight faces or heads. The the toe
estimated to be
is
2*2
also claim that the proper
height
have the subject
to
is
with feet stretched out, or
must be on correct
if
This
tiptoe.
we want
if
to find
in
measure for a lyingdown position
in a
to
standing position
theory
is
it
undoubtedly
the correct length of the
and dressmakers this is of less importance. What we want is the division of the parts of the body that we are required to cover, and face, but to tailors
it
matters not
if
the face of our client
is
of an inch longer or shorter, and while
from the crown of the head
to
onesixteenth the distance
bottom of heel does
not contain eight times the length of the face, yet find in rectlj'
my
I
subdivided into eighths, giving us 64 parts or units for height.
The
division of the female form
as that of the male,
Her shoulders
is
nearly the same
with the following exceptions:
are narrower,
her waist smaller
and
hips larger, and her arms and legs are shorter than the male.
I
female to be
consider 5 feet
height of 64 inches
the
average
height
4 inches or 64 inches, is
so
of if
ys or
g«i.
is
a trifle longer than this division.
From
C
The accomj)anying
will
one inch.
It will
a
A
B
to
be noticed that the face on diagram
top of neck to top of shoulder, as from
B
to
is A'.
From to D,
top of shoulder to bottom of scye, as from
is 6%,
which only holds good for the bone
C
struc
ture.
—
Note. This distance must be regulated by the diameter of the scye, according to flesh developments, as the distance from N to P is width not (See explanation of wid/hs.)
height.
B E
to
E
to
A D
to
F F F
to
is
waist length and
is
}i of height.
is
J^ of the entire
is
_^ of the height
is
]^ of height.
length of the body.
and regulates length of arm.
In fleshy forms the length of sleeve will decrease,
and
in
lean forms increase a
trifle,
according
crease or decrease of flesh under the arm at
F
to
G
G
to
H
H I
to J to J,
J to K,
is 2
is
to
in
P.
units or parts.
4 units or parts.
is 2
units or parts.
"the knee,"
is
yi.
"lower part of calf,"
L to M, "bottom The length of leg
that of a female figure, such as the ladies'
be
—
Note.
the
diagram
is
is
K
each unit
in
THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT.
the
divided into 64 parts or units
tight
used in dividing
top of head to top of neck, as from
practice that this distance can be cor
divided into eight parts and each of these parts
is
From
of the entire height.
way
" lacced
them,
find
The following method
the height on the 64th unit theory, measure taken from top of head to bottom of heel:
to the
distance from the bottom of the heel to the end of
They
dressmaker
corset."'
that the entire height, from the
is
crown of the head
sculptors,
human body and
regarding the height of the
proper division,
Stone.
tailor or
The theory advanced by our most noted painters,
J.
to L, "ankle,"
is
is
^.
4 parts.
of heel," will
of entire height.
be
2
is
4 parts.
units or parts less than yi
Alpha Paramount Cut 'A" 105. Copyrighted
1897
by Chas.
J.
Stone.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
^ ^ ^
d^
dt
PROPORTIONS. BY Chas.
J.
Stone.
fourth
THE DIVISION OF WIDTH.
of
4>4
breast,
added
inches,
bust
to
measure, 36.
The width
is
divided
into
sixteen
across the pelvis.
The average
breast measure of the female form
is
34 inches, and the bust over the mammilla 36 inches.
The proportionate
waist will be
10 inches
less
than
breast, or twothirds of the bust measure.
The
hips will measure 40^4
^
entire width across the breast, as
breast measure,
is
width of back from width of back
The width
C
is
^
one
e^
from C
to 3
is
neck
3^. is
C
to 5
is
The
Si.
ys.
of shoulders at top are reduced
distance between lines
to 8,
divided into eighths, and the
at top of
^
the
and 3 as per dotted line, so while the widtli of back from C to 3 is s/g of breast, the width of shoulders is reduced j'j at line B K.
The
entire
width
2
of
body
is
divided
into
six
teenths of the breast, or eighths on division, and the extra bust whatever
inches, which
.^
The
equal parts.
Note these divisions of widths are made from the net breast measure taken snug above the bust "mammillae." Of these parts I give six for the front, six for the back and two for each side or arm, four for the waist and eight for the hip, the largest part being
front as from 8 to
^
9.
e^ e^
it
may measure
is
added
to
the
Alpha Paramount Cut "A" 106. Co)iyris;liled
I8SI" liy C'luis.
,1.
Stone
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
14
PROPORTIONS Fashionable Jacket, by Proportionate Method, from the following measurements: Height,
4 inches.
5 feet
IN PRACTICE. Draw
A
Waist, 24 inches.
lines
A
to
is
B A
to
B C
ATS.
and
is
inches, being #j of height plus
breast plus J^ inch. 16^ inches, being
^
inch. It
^
of height
plus
^
inch.
Square lines B
C
E
to
is
C and
i^ breast,
to
F
is
J^ full bust.
Divide breast into eight equal parts and mark per black dots.
C
to
H is i^, H to K to L is )4
Square up Points J
V
lines J
and
I is
and
UL
>^,
I
to J
>^, J to
is
off as
is
}i,
L.
will
then form the diameter of
scye, but as the scye in a lady's
somewhat wider than vance from L
K
in
garment
a gentleman's,
is
G
is
I
is
same
5 to 19
is
F
and
way between E and
G
to 21,
a
from
line
add from
X to
X
through
13, J^ inch,
as 27 to 21.
to 18
}4 breast,
D
to
is I
1
^
to 2 is
to 3 is 2i^ inches.
3 to 4
4 to
7
and 10 into three equal parts and locate points O and P, and square up points O and P. halfway between B and V.
ÂŤo**
^.g.
and 19 is 2
to 20
is
2^
is
I
^
is 2 i^
to 8 is
I
6 inches.
inch.
inches, thus making body and underarm piece }(
7
J^ inch.
inch.
is 1
5 is
is
inches.
inches.
1
F.
G
^
2
6 to
to R.
16 to 17
Shape front as represented. D to 23 IS I inch, and D to 24
ad
to 10
Divide distance between
Z
W down
the
14 to 6
half
Draw
)^ breast.
I.
Square up from
This line will
12.
W
1
Point
through Z to
and shape as represented, the top of back coming i4 inch below point A. will be seen that the distance from K to is the same as K to 21, and the distance from 27 to Y is
cut
one half inch and recede from J to 1 one half inch. The armscye will then be nearly a circle, as indicated by dotted line 27 2
T
Square down from F to 15, and advance from 15 to 16 one inch. Then draw a line from 16 to F and a line from S to F.
D.
and
is
point
is j.^
D
to
3^
A B D
X
to
TO DRAFT. Square
from
point of back at W.
Bust, 36 inches.
Breast, 34 inches.
a line
locate top of front shoulder, also lower shoulder
^
The dotted
the
back and side
of waist measure.
inches.
(same as side and underarm piecesV inches.
lines
on back and side body indicate the
pleats.
Finish draft as represented and add seams
when
cross
cutting the cloth.
all
over
i6
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
THE DRESS
Strap,
BODICE.
f2)
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
i8
DRESS BODICE. HY ACTUAL MEASURES.
The diagram on
opposite page
following measures: Strap,
12
is
produced by the
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
BASQUE. )1V
From
the following measurements:
Upper shoulder,
SHOUI.DKR MEASURES.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
22
DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK. The body same
of a double breasted frock
is
waist seams
comes from
i
to
j
A
2
inches below the
and the same in front as from B to N; in the side it is only about one inch below regular waist line as from C to H. The lapel is cut as per dotted outline and is about i^ inches wide at waist line and 2^ inches at center of bust. The skirt is cut on the same principle waist line in the back as from
to D,
as the regular dress skirt in the following
Draw
a straight line
O
to
P P
to S to
P
Q
is is
is
I'j I
J
X
to
Draw
is
to
T
O
manner:
to S
is
which
same as O to P. from P through X
is
'3 waist
measure.
a line
is
X
to
S T.
S.
to
from 2 through U to from 37 to 39 inches.
skirt
length of coat
full
is
length of skirt from
skirt
from
Y
the
is
Sweep from
D
same
W
to
2 to 15,
the
same
as
15.
back
to Z.
as
Y
X
to
W.
by P for length.
it open over the hips as and 11, fold skirt over at botton as indicated by dotted lines 10, 11, 12 and 13.
5
to 8
fitting skirt split
10
at
S T, using point P as pivot.
width of back,
X
line
X
inches below
is 5
to 15 is one inch. Shape spring of back
to VV.
E to D; make a mark at i, and place sidebotly so that waist line will lay on I
V
For a close
the
and mark off bottom of sidebody under arm piece in same
W
T S,
S,
below sweep
skirt
U
waist.
QR
X
manner and mark off at 34. Then place forepart so that point B will lay on point T and mark off as at 56, 7 and 4, so whatever the body comes below waist line we cut off of
Make
the same.
line
as at 23, then place
The
to T.
yi waist.
Sweep from
X
from
waist and
Form square P
Q
sweep
drafted the
as an ordinary waist with the exception that the
is
•w*SSSSiJ^^^S3^^(of
I
J^ inches
}SS*es««<
and Y
to 9
is
2}4 inches.
l9_
I
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
24
FANCY WAIST. BY PROPORTIONS.
The
waist on opposite page
is
produced from the
following measurements:
Length of waist, i6
Breast,
33
Bust,
Waist,
35
23
Square up from
J to
Square up from
H
A
to
D
to
Commence by
A
to
B B
to
B C
to
D
is is
to
E
is
F
is
^ ^
to
R
is
F
to
G
is
I
C and
N
is
to
P
is 2
Draw
C
half
I
is
I
to J
is
T
inch.
X
to
inches.
i^ of
i}( inches.
is
an inch
taken out between back and side
is
K R
to 6
to
Q.
inch.
6 to 7 7
line
to
M.
M
through P and F to R.
from S
I
to 8 is
1
The C.
to N.
yi inch less
than 3 of breast.
is 2
9 to 10
Shape
inches.
is 2 is
8 to 9
way between B and
is
I
5 is 214^
W
i^ breast.
a line
H
to
2}^ inches.
bust.
from
half
'
yi bust.
to
2 to 3 is
3 to 4 is
breast.
Shape front
is
inches.
^ inches. ^ inch. I
body and X. is half way between is half way between
G
S
AON.
D.
Square up from
M M
3^/^
length of waist.
Square down from F
Q
and
4 to
breast and
lines
to
ABC
inch.
is full
Square
C C
^ X
squaring lines
'6 breast.
is
is
I
to 2 is
1
TO DRAFT.
V
F.
to O.
J
and H. and X.
K
inches.
J^ inches.
inch.
inches.
is 2 3/4
inches.
as represented.
cloth side
is represented by shaded portion, the back body and under arm piece is in one and
shaped so as
to
fit
the lining.
The shaded porThe front
tion on front represents the cloth.
way between C and H.
of waist
yi inch.
is
is
finished with fancy silk.
Waist at neck
finished with an ordinary standing collar.
(3)
1
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
26
JACKET AND VEST. On
the diagram of a jacket and produced by proportions from the following measurements:
opposite page
The diagram
vest.
Length of
waist,
Full length,
Breast,
is
is
isH
Bust,
21
Waist,
36
Draw
14 to 34
Commence by 1
to 2 is
squaring lines
to 17 is
is
3 inches.
3 to 4
is
)^ of breast
2 to 5 is
waist length,
Square
lines 4
4 to 10
is
1
9
and
ij
and
i,
17,
inch.
i^^, and
to 6 full length, 21.
5.
inch less than
}4
I }/2
30
is
the same.
2^3
breast.
18 to 19
is
I
plus
19 to 20
is
J4 inch.
20 to 21
is
2yi inches.
21 to 22
is T
22 to 23
is
23 to 24
is
2^
24 to 25
is
3 inches.
inch.
inches.
is
2^
inches.
26 to 28
is
3
inches.
is
half of bust.
27 to 28
Draw
is
a line
12 to 13
is
from 8
^
bust.
largest
tlie
11.
inch.
I
'4^
In shaping the front dart add
Square up and down from
Square up from 10 and
inch.
2}i inches.
25 to 26
4 to 8
'2
inch.
11.
half of breast.
8.
trifle
lines to 28.
lines.
inch at 31 over
38.
collar for the jacket
which any cutter
The
'j
part of bust and hollow the shoulder a
between 30 and
The
28.
}^ inches.
10.
is
and
inches.
halfway between 4 and
7
4 to
3, 5,
breast,
is
halfway between 10 and
is is
and
^
13 tiirough 8
breast.
'4
5 to 18 is J4
inch.
'/2
3
2 to
i,
is
to 3.
ys breast.
16 to 29 15 to
TO DRAFT.
is
Shape front from I
34^2
from 13
a line
13 to 14
darts on
is
indicated by dotted
will readily
the vest
are
understand.
indicated by dotted
12
13
^
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
28
^
^
e^ e^ e^
DOUBLEBREASTED VEST. On
opposite page we give a normal draft of a
The measures
doublebreasted ladies' vest. Breast, Bust,
Note.
26
37
Waist,
39
Length of waist,
â€”This pattern
are:
16
drafted without seams
;
in
D
of bust measure.
'6
bust on divisions.
C
is
length of waist.
Square
lines
C
to
F
is )4
F F
to
G H
14
L.
to 6 is
on
I
inch.
to 10 to
7
is
is is
I
yi inch.
inch. '4
I
inches,
making the width
at waist yl of the entire waist
R
B C and D. of breast on division. bust on divisions.
yi bust
and K.
Shape front from L through E and 6. L to M is '8 breast on divisions. A to N is breast plus y^ inch on divisions.
yi breast.
to
H G
Square down lines F and E.
8 to 9
is
to
::;
is
3)4 inches.
to
is
is
is
K
P R
A D and A
B
is
E
to
^
TO DRAFT. Scjuare lines
B
to
Square up lines
T
is
cutting the goods add for seams and sew in chalk line.
A
C E
to
The
I
is
I
back part
)^ inches.
darts are each
i^
inches making the forepart
at waist y^ of the entire waist
divisions.
?i3Âť
of
measure.
t^ ^^ i^ t^ t^
measure.
30
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
CUTAWAY
Length of Waist,
FROCK.
^w
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
DOUBLEBREASTED CUTAWAY JACKET.
t6>X
(4)
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
34
BASQUE AND VEST. The
draft
is
produced by the following shoidder
6 to
measures:
Upper shoulder, 22 J^ Front length, 19^ Lower shoulder, 2i]4 Natural waist, 16^
Bust,
Side length,
Waist, 22
Full length,
8J^
36
Breast, 32
Hip,
Vest opening,
39
Square lines A. F and to
B
is
to
C
is
to
D
is
A
to
E
is
E
to
F
is
B B
Square
D D
A
K
D
K
X
to
(; full
from
O
M
is
half
L
is
half
to
Q U to R
A
to
Draw <) to
is
and
F.
The
]/2
line
P
J to
W.
I
to J
and from
J
through
X
for
y'^
c to
X
inch.
1
to
2
is
is
;8 I
s
is 2
4 to 6
is
I
inch.
inch.
inches. '
first
back part
sidebody
is
i]/:
line
and
cut same as the basque, the dotted lines
is
inches.
inches.
inch.
I
33^ inches, making the distance from c to d '4 of waist measure.
is
is
I
is I
to y is
to
i
inches,
J{;
inch,
1
is 2
â€˘^ 14'
inches, inches,
and
h, e to s
to O.
2 to 3 is }4 inch.
3 to 4
inches at the
e to s is lyi inches,
making the distance from X
y to k
Shape front of vest
V^
to
waist measure.
y^ inch outside of center line
and
finish as represented.
The basque roll is 4
inches; re
duce the front of coat 1 inch from lower end of the lapel all the way down. I
is
and
y to k
T is the same as U to R. P to V is J4 breast. From waist line to lower end of
to
vest
a to h
S to
F
W
d
h to e
inch.
from C
2]/^
entire width of
bottom 5 inches. on back to spring of
to a is 2 '4
a to c
J^ breast.
is
make
3 inches;
is
and
inches,
to O.
y% breast plus '/ inch.
is
w
2
representing the vest.
way between D and M. way between D and H.
is
the lower end
at
VEST.
lower shoulder, less
^2
j/4'
shape as represented.
front center line.
D N
^4
line
Apply hip measure 5j^ inches below waist
length.
inch.
is I
line
sitie
inches more than
5
inches from
y^ breast.
Square up from
Draw
2^
wide
From
'6 bust.
is
inches or
draw a
at
"/ inch.
is
^
and two
inches.
waist and to
Square down from
W
10^
9 to 10,
g to
to J is 1^ bust.
J to
is
the back
of entire waist measure.
inches from 7 to 8, and 2 from g to m center of dart and take out %i inch on each side of m. Shape front as represented, making the lapel 3 inches
O.
J^ breast. y'z inch.
lines C,
H
to
^
X
notch, and the collar
upper shoulder.
)4
to
7
Suppress
TO DRAFT.
A
5
inches or
waist measure.
34
Full length, 21}^.
lo.
From
making
inches,
is 2].,
7
bodies
so as to give
The
it
is
cut with a large lapel turned back
an even
roll all the
way down
in front.
and there are There is a hook
lapels are stiffened with hair cloth
three large buttons on each lapel.
on forepart on the inside under the lower button, and an eyelet in the vest holding the fronts of the
The vest is cut with a regular colbasque together. lar same as on a gentleman's vest.
6
1
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
36
THE PRINCIPLE OF SLEEVE CUTTING. Make width
of sleeve from 13 to 14, }4 inch less than
measure, and add from 14 to elbow i inch for the upper sleeve. The top sleeve from 12 to 17
^ inch more than half of the width at hand, and the upper sleeve is ^ inch smaller. 15 and 12 to 16 is 14^ inch added to the upper sleeve and like amount is taken off the under sleeve. is
3 to
THE NEW WRINKLE AND HOW TO PRODUCE
IT.
From Split
14 to double circle below 18 is 3}^ inches. under sleeve from 19 to 18, and swing out top part of sleeve whatever amount of fullness is
wanted and draw a 23
way between
half
is
Draw
a line
from 19
line 3
from 3
and
to 21.
21.
to 20.
Square up from 23 to 24, and sweep from as shown in diagram. Tlie fullness
on top sleeve
Add seams when
is
to
be shirred
21
to
22
in.
cutting the cloth.
THE CLOSE FITTING SLEEVE. Square lines
A D and A
A
breast,
to
2 to
B
C
is
i's
is 5'8
are
from a regular close
cut
all
sleeve pattern (see diagram of the regular sleeve draft,
with
The
illustration of
regular sleeve
the armscye, which
Length of sleeve
tii
how
is
to produce the puff at top.) produced from the measure of
is
as follows
Full length of sleeve,
i6
Scye,
1
:
Width Width
8
tibiiw,
at
elbow,
at
hand.
9%
TO DRAFT.
Commence by From I to 2 is From I to 3 is
squaring out and down. I'j
scye.
^
scye and }( inch. and to ii full length of Square across from points 2, 3 and 10.
3 to lo is elbow,
is
I
}i inches.
to 12 is
I
^
10 to 13 1
inches.
on diagonal line is Ui scye, and half way between 3 and 4.
3 to 4 5 is
sleeve.
Square up and down from
Draw a line from 3 to shown in diagram.
yi inch.
5. 6,
and shape top sleeve as
inch.
A B
to 3 is
and C. whatever upper part of armscye measures.
2
to 4 is
whatever lower part of armscye measures.
Draw fitting
H. to 2 is 3^ breast.
2
Square lines
Sleeves
and
line
from
2 to 3.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 5
way between
half
is
and
2
Square up and down from
C E E D
D
to
way between C and
to
to 12
and
14
2 to
is
inch.
i
Square down from 3 to F. Make width at hand and elbow according
and shape as shown
THE LEG
O'
in
to
measure,
diagram.
MUTTON SLEEVE.
In the leg o' mutton sleeve the under part remains the
same
part
as in a closefitting
sleeve;
and the upper
very easily changed from the closefitting to
is
the very large by
Sweep from Sweep from
From
by
3 to 10
8
2 to
making the following sweeps: and 9 by 1.
to 8
2
is
F.
inches, or whatever
2j/^
fullness
is
desired in the upper sleeve.
Sweep from 8 to 9
Draw
8 to
i
by
(
7,
and from
11
to 10
by
6.
\]^ inches.
is
line
from 10
to
hand.
ONE SEAM LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE.
.ABC
Fold paper lengthways and square lines
and
to G.
Square across
at A.
A A
to to
B C
is
^
C
to
D
is
4 inches or whatever width
B
to
E
is 5
sleeve length.
is ji{
of sleeve length.
Make
A
G
to
Draw
is
is
desired.
inches.
of sleeve from
.\pply length
D
through
E
out to
F.
a point at F.
tS inches.
from F to G. way between F and G. Square across at H.
H
is
H
to
a line
half
K
is
^
sleeve length.
Sweep from F
G
to
M
is
to
G
using
K
as pivot.
}4 inch or enough to
ing of sleeve head.
is
3/
of an
inch
to J
is
I
up and
inch back of
inch.
Shape under part of sleeve
\y2 inches.
is
12 to 15
I
12.
15^ inches.
is
I
L
point F.
5.
length of sleeve, i6}4 inches.
is
half
is
Point
3.
37
make an even round
as represented
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
38
Si^SSs*
ONE SEAM SLEEVE. A
great
number of
cutters are cracking their brains
about drafting the various styles and kinds of ladies' sleeves, never for a moment thinking that it can be
done otherwise.
We
ladies' sleeve that
can be produced by drafting
will
say right here that the only
close fitting sleeve, and from
are cut, and the
this
accompanying
all
sleeve
is
a
other sleeves is
produced
in
the following manner:
Draw
a
straight line
ordinary close
elbow
i,
2,
3
fitting sleeve
at points 10
and
iS.
and cut
it
go up same amount from 6 parallel with line
Sweep from
to 8;
line
17, 8, is
3.
through 19 to 12 to 13, using 8 as back from 8 to 9, i)4 inches and
sweep from 14 through 20 to 12. Add from 13 to 18 enough so as to make an even round on the top of sleeve.
Take an across the
When
and overlap at 15 seam is obtained, then cut sleeve across at 6; swing sleeve around until it gets on a right angle as illustrated in the diagram. Measure distance from 5 to 7, which in this case is 914 inches;
2,
pivot; then go
Line 19 Line 20
and 11, pivot at these points and 16 until a straight outside
7
i,
is
the upper sleeve.
is
the under sleeve.
sleeve
is
finished, points 3
and 4
will
come down
shown in accompanying illustration of thesleeve finished. The Y>\n checked portion of the diagram represents the close fitting sleeve The black and shaded to point 2, giving the extra overlap as
portion represents the foldover.
Note.
â€” Add seams
in cutting tlie cloth.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
40
^ ^ ^ ^ ^
THE FOUNDATION In cutting skirts for every size
and
it is
not necessary to
style, for
much
is
it
make
and from that make The accompanying diagram most simple and correct method in
be found a
If
the side of skirt
point below
form
A
C
to
is
Hip
;
42
;
square as
a
Length .\
P
A
N.
waist.
i's
C to D and C to F is ^3 waist. Make a sweep from D to and I
point
to 13, using
C
P
to
is
5
inches.
Make
a
sweep as per dotted
L
to
is
say
is,
same as D to 13. from C through L M to R. then measure ^ waist and P
to
Q
to
G
to
G R
C
i
a line
13 to
I,
will
C
to
double circled
inch.
of skirt at
is
12 inches.
is
27 inches.
is
27 inches
lines
2 to I is
1
from
the
Draw
as
inch longer than front,
i
point
and R to J is 27 inclies. from C to Q, G and R. inch. Shape front gore from to K. i
a closer fitting skirt
line.
F
H Q
Draw
as pivot. 13
C
to J, using point
this draft 2^^ yards,
40.
anti
R
G,
bottom as from H to J, in and draw a line from J to C. The distance from L to I will then be for fulness in the back and is gathered or pleated in.
TO DRAFT.
Waist 24
Q
lower sweep from
Measure width
skirt cutting.
First
through
pivot.
the needed changes. will
H
from
a draft
simpler and
easier to use a foundation skirt,
SKIRT.
to
M
}^ of
a
sweep
H
and make
^
and
7
If
wanted, reduce gores as
to 8.
of the gores
must be regulated by the it no certain
width of the materials used, and there
number
hip measure. .\pply length of skirt from 13 to
5 to 6
The width
is
of gores required.
for the present style of skirt.
e^ e^ e^ e^
They may be
5,
6 or 7
Q
5
FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLE OF SKIRT CUTTING.
(5)
ANOTHER FOUNDATION
Front length, 41
Back
length, 41
SKIRT.
Side length Waist,
I

TO DRAFT. a straight line A B C. Square out from A. A to B is 4 inches. A to C is front length 41. Square out B and C. B to G is half of hip measure. Divide B to G into four parts as follows:
Draw
^
B
to
D
D
to
E C C
to
E is F is
to
H
is
half of hip
to
K
is
I
is
N C
inch back of D. is the distance from C to J. Cut through from O to N. L to 9 is I J^ inches, shape side gore from 9 to K.
O
'
,;
hip.
THE
^
and F
to
G
)^
and
on division.
H
to J the
same.
inch.
ABC
skirt.
Apply waist measure from
A
to
L and
find out
how
be taken out of the darts and take out yj: the amount between 5 and 6 and 73 the amount over is
I
li.^CK
GORES.
}(.
Fold paper on dotted line so that front lays on line J K L; point .\ will in this manner locate point L, and C will locate point J. In this case the front, side and back lengths are all the same, so by simply folding the paper and cutting it off even at top and bottom, the correct length is gained; but in case the side and back length be longer or shorter than the front the difference must be added or taken off at the top, at waist and not at the bottom of the
much
is
to
to
the hips between
7
and
8.
In this skirt there are three back gores, each one 28 inches wide at the bottom and 5 inches wide at the top. By reducing side gores i J^ inches at from L to 9, there will be three inches of space or i inch for each back gore, which is cut five times as wide at the top
and gathered
How
in
making
up.
back gores; Take a piece of paper 5 inches wide at the top and 28 at the bottom, fold lengthwise four times and cut across top and bottom and the correct angle is gained. Note. The number of gores shall be regulated according to the width of the goods as follows: First, cut the skirt pattern independent of any seams then measure width of goods and divide the gores accordto cut the
â€”
ingly.
Add seam when
cutting the cloth.
SKIRT.
The measures
are:
T^et
Waist,
25
Full side length,
40^
Hip, Side length to hip,
40
Length Length
40 40 '/J
6
in front, in back,
TO DRAFr.
Draw
A
line
B
from
A
to C.
inch less than measure taken. Square out lines B and C. B to G is half of hip measure. D E F is ^8 of hip measure or J/( on division. of entire hip measure. C to V is to
is 5
inches, or
^
i
From E to H and V to M is one inch. Draw line from M through H to J.
A
arm of square rest at A and long arm and square across to get point J.
short
to
S to
H,
R is }( waist. T is one inch.
side length measure from Square across from to W.
Apply
M
at
to
W
R
to
H
and M.
M
is
the
same
W
as
C
to
M.
through N F to K. Place short arm of square at J and long arm and square back from J for point K. K to N is back length measures. Square out from N. N to O is 14 hip measure. K to P is 3^ the distance from N to O.
Draw
line
from
at
F
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
44
FOUR GORED DRESS The skirt
diagram
is
on
page
opposite
cut with four gores and
of
is five
dress
a
yards at the
bottom. The following measures are used
in drafting:
Waist,
25
Side length,
Hip,
40
Front length,
40
Back length, Width at bottom,
40^^ 40^^ yards
5
C
A A
to
to to
ABC
lines
A B
H
is is
and
stuare across at C.
to
D
is
'8
Sweep from
E by
ABC
on
will lay
length at top.
A
Apply measure from
to J
and whatever
of the waist take out
L and K and
Y^
it
more amount
is
extra
the remainder in
the
front darts.
THE SIDE GORE.
.
Draw
a straight
measure out width
and make
a sweep.
M
line at
will
Fold paper over so that point
inches.
is 5
on point
will fall
Q
and point
O
will
on
fall
from
be noted that
E G
bottom, 45 inches from Make width from L to
ÂŤ^
to
E
to
M
A
to
^
making.
Q
left side at
M N
as indicated
e^
ft^
L by R
point
The opening
S,
yl
the front line
extended up to point
is
sweep from
skirt a trifle at
E through L
if
C B A and
side
R
we could then and from C The same to E by R for run of bottom of skirt. If line E J and line Q M would in side piece. extend up to S we could then sweep from L to M for top of waist, and from E to Q for bottom of skirt, The same method may be used using S as pivot. for back gore. As the front and back gores are cut on the fold the goods on both the side and back gore will run on the bias from M to Q, therefore it is well to shorten the
line
C.
E and G and where line C strikes on sweep E will be side length at bottom and wherever point A lays on L will be the side
than
to
to P.
;
it
points
between
O
The side and back length of skirt being jj inch more than front length, raise the skirt at waist line this amount as per dotted line from I K L M N O
of hip measure.
Fold pattern over so that line
'4'
be the top.
will
THE BACK GORE.
P
width at bottom, 22'/ inches. to
M
point
waist.
D
will fall
point N.
Sweep up from H to I. B to F is 10 inches or 1^' Sweep up from F to G.
C
L
on points M and (T, thus wherever point E will fall on the sweep at point Q will be the length at bottom and wherever point L will fold on
E
and
O
40 inches, front length. 5 inches, being js of entire length.
is J4^
waist measure then fold paper over so that point
Draw a straight line from P to Q is 2 2)^ inches.
TO DRAFT.
Draw
SKIRT.
as
it
will
of the skirt
lines.
down in made on the
stretch is
and fastens inside with
by dotted
e^
Q
for waist line,
a
French
fly
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
46
5$«s*Si$ee«*
*»*5iJS*Sf
DOUBLE BREASTED LONG JACKET. By Proportions.
From
D
the following measurements;
Length of waist,
16
Breast,
Full length,
32
Bust,
A R
Square lines
A B D
A
breast and 4 inches always.
B
A
B C
to to
is '/^ is
to J is
J to
D
Square
is
to
K
is
to
F
is 7 J
to
is is
35
2 to
4 to
^
full
I
length.
to
P
Q
to
R
Draw Draw
is is
to
X
is
}{
X
to
Y
is
I
E
to
W
is
is
to
I.
V
breast, plus
half
way between V and H.
Z
4 inches.
}/>
inch.
I
breast and
'4^
to
Draw From From
inch.
J^ inch.
is
is
lines for spring as
through
J
V
through
shown
in
diagram.
for width of back.
i
K
and from
2
through
3 for
back
and side body.
R R
H
From
breast.
a line from
to S
H
from
is
a line from
R R
line
to 6 is 2i/( inches.
inch. J6
breast on division.
is J^
to
yi bust.
I
inches.
5 is 2 J4
U
Square up and down from N.
O
inches.
inch.
L
C and
breast.
y'i
inch.
2^
is I
B to H Draw a
to B.
^
is
3
3 to 4
A
i"^ inches.
is
I
4 Inches.
B.
lines D,
B B B
G N
E
waist length, to
to
34
inch.
'yh
Feet
5
to 2 is
1
Q.
half the distance from
A
to
and
Height,
to
N
and from
N
through 4 and from
througli P.
From F through Z
to C.
N
'8 breast.
to
7
and P
Sweep from E
breast.
as
inch.
oais ee
ee
through
5 for
second
for forepart.
to 8 is 4^/ inches.
to 9
represented.
goods.
3 inches.
U
side body.
by S
for
front length and shape
Add seams when
cutting the
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
48
ÂŤ^ 5^ ÂŤ^ i^ e^
THE BALLOON SLEEVE. SIX
Take an ordinary
close fitting sleeve
and lay
it
together at hand and elbow as illustrated in diagram.
Draw
A
is
a line from
A B
K.
Point
E
is
to
J.
located by getting center from
Pivot by E and sweep G D Y. Divide parts as shown on diagram
Y to P is 4 inches. Make sweep N O P
QR
using
E
Draw
G
D.
a line
from
Locate points through 6
From From From
elbow.
Draw a line from H to G. Draw a line from I through A F to G is ij4 inches. Sweep from C to E by A.
IMECES.
6,
A
2,
3
and
for pivot.
4.
8,
9
line
from
i
to (J.
2
through
3
through 8
7
to R. to
O.
4 through 9 to N.
S
is
2^
T
is
^
inches above N. of an inch forward from
S.
Shape as represented. to X by R, and from U to Y by S. Sweep from There should be no fullness on the top of the sleeve, but from X to G and B to D the sleeve is to be
W
i,
E up to P. and draw a
through
7,
gathered
e^ e^ 9^ t^
^
in.
t^
(6)
6
5Â°
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
DOUBLE BREASTED JACKET.
Waist,
1
LADIES' D B JACKET.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
t^ t^
%^ t^
«^»
THE LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE. Take an ordinary place
it
and
to
diagram, laying the
as
closefitting sleeve pattern
in position as
shown
in
outside seams together with the elbow
down
to
the
hand, then draw a straight line from hand through elbow.
Sweep from B to C by A. D is half way between B and C. Sweep from E through 6 and FF, using point D
for
pivot.
same distance as D to E. Use point 2 as pivot and sweep from i through Where the two sweeps meet at 3F fill in enough I
to 2 is the
t^
make sleevetop an even run. shown in diagram. Point 6
with points B D.
Width
Note.
G.
—
at
.\11
line
Points 44 go together and points
hand ladies'
so as
t^'
to 5
6 and 7 go together with three pleats on upper sleeve between 5 and 6. There are 7 to 8 pleats laid between points 6 and G, and 6 to 7 pleats between points i and G, letting The cuff is the pleats run down each way from G. left open on the outside to correspond with the collar.
G
from 4
on an even
Fill in is
^^^
*^*
*i^
is
usually 9 inches.
garments are cut without seams.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
54
â€˘^dSSi^^di^l
THE NEW BISHOP SLEEVE. Take an ordinary and half as the under sleeve
A
close fitting sleeve pattern, cut
by dotted lines, reduce as shown by solid lines as follows: to C is 14 inch, and B to D is inch; add same amount to top sleeve from B to E i inch, and A to F i^ inch, and M to K is 2i<( inches; add same amount from to N 2^ inches, and O to Q i}^ inches; split upper sleeve through center from hand to elbow as from P to K, and cut across at elbow as from to M.
half
illustrated
Square up line from
R
H
to
S
W
is
to
8 inches, or three times
K
and S
the distance
from
to V.
W
inches in center below N. extra goods between a strap
seam.
^
to
Y
is
F
is
is
to
is
Draw
X
is
to
K
as
to
sleeve.
same distance as and F to J is 3 inches; the
be pleated on
way between
J
from and Y.
Sweep from Y to J by X. Hollow out inch at 3, and j!'2
inch at
to
this
C on
under
extra length
to undersleeve.
a straight line across
half
G
J to Y.
3/j^
inch at
4,
and add
J.
This way of cutting the Bishop sleeve
will produce from elbow down, and an overflowing wide sleeve above the elbow; the fullness may be
a very close
fit
either pleated or shirred in.
W and
inch wide
3
R
Z Y. L on undersleeve, and Z inches and this amount is to be pleated
same
under
sleeve,
^2
Take piece cut out of uppersleeve and place it over so that K P lays on points R T, and draw a line across from R to and V, coming down 2^
The
the
to
M
K
is
to the
i
W
Z
to
V
is
pleated in and
stitched
on over the
The
sleeve
is
real buttonholes
finished with a vent, with
and buttons
elbow, as from P to K.
o^^SSSS&f*
all
the
blind or
way up
to the
6
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
56
DOUBLE BREASTED COAT. On
opposite page
is
the diagram
The back
breasted coat.
is
cut on
of a
double
the fold of the
goods and the two back and side seams on each side from the top down are finished with box plaits; the collar is a high Queen Anne and the sleeves the
melon style, the pockets are placed in the front gore seam as shown In diagram. On next page we present a cut of the coat as
The
draft
is
it
appears finished.
produced from proportions by the
To
1
large part of hip, 24
56
Full length,
E
to
Breast, Bust,
34 36
Waist,
=
Hip,
4
is
I
1
to 2 is 3^ inch.
to 3 is 2
inch.
is
4 to 5
is 2 '4
O
to
to V.
inches.
'/(
3 to 4
N
H
inch.
I
2
[
is
inches. inch.
I
Draw line from J through O Shape front from J to up
to 15.
W
Q
following measures: Waist,
Square down from
W
to
I4
is
Make width F
to
X
Draw
is
40
of back from
Draw
G
yj^ inches.
to 9,
inch.
I
a line from
10 to II
to P.
breast.
X
through
2
to 10.
15 inches.
is
from 4
line
to 12 parallel with line to 10.
10 DR.^FT. 1
Commence by squaring lines .\ E and .\ M. A to B is y^ inch. B to C is 34^ breast. C to D is 3X2 inches. B to E waist length to F, prominent part of to
G
full
Square lines
D D
length of coat.
D E
to 6
6 to 7
7
15 inches.
is
3 incl.es.
to 8 is
I 3/(^
Make width hip and
inches.
'4'
is 2
is
there
is
Make width
inches.
from
of lapel
from
15 to 16 half the distance
13 to 15.
of lapel
at waist
length at 17 half the
width of forepart from 8 to
to I is >4 breast.
Lapel
at
top from 18 to 19
is
o.
2%
inches.
to J is >4 bust.
to
P
is
THE COLLAR.
J.
yi bust.
^
P
to
Q
is
A
to
R
is
^8 breast, plus >^ inch.
to
L
is
Yi breast.
to
K
is y'l
D D
Y
to 13
F.
Square up and down from
M
2
breast.
bieast.
Square up from L and K. Draw line from C to (^. D to H is 54 breast on division.
Place corner of square at P, letting short arm rest
on W. Square down from P to U. Square up and down from
U
to
Add
LI.
V
is
^
of an inch spring in
1
inch.
Shape as represented.
CVOC) ^S.
':Â°J^?^^S$iSi*
back
at T.
(7)
58
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
1
THE MELON SLEEVE. Length of sleeve
to elbow,
Full length,
Take an ordinary pattern
off
8
i6
Width Width
of sleeve at
hand,
at tlliow,
Draw
1
9
close fitting sleeve, cut or tear
about 2)^
inches above the elbows as
shown by the shaded pattern on diagram.
A D
a line
to
B
is
half
is
i
from
^
C
through
way between B and
Sweep from B through sleeve.
A
to B.
inches.
2,
3,
C. 4 and 5 to C, for top of
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
6o
SINGLE BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT. This garment is finished the same as a genlleman's box overcoat. It is silk lined throughout, silk faced to the front edge and has a soft roll, the seams are strapped and the edges double stitched }< to 3/; inch wide; there are outside, side and ticket pockets with flaps
to
go
in or out, the sleeves are
made medium
band with a small The whole garment presents a vent 1)4 inches long. very stylish appearance. The draft is produced from size, leg of
mutton, finished
at the
the following short measures: Strap,
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
62
COACHING COAT. The front is cut with a separate piece 8}4 inches wide The back is finished with a strap 3^4 inches wide. The seams and edges may be double stitched or set in.
strapped 3/^ inch wide. There are two outside pockets with flaps to go in and out. There are also two outside pockets on the breast in the front piece as indicated by dotted lines. The sleeves are close fitting from the elbow down. The top part of sleeve is finished with a double box pleat and the top of sleeve heads are finished witli double box pleats. The draft is produced by proportions from breast and bust measures as follows:
To
waist,
Draw
a straight line up and
G.
G
to
H
is
width
down from F
at hartd.
D
to
to
K is
L and F
to
18 inches.
L is half way between E and K. Square a line from L to M. Sweep from E through P, N, to K, using point as a pivot. C to Q is 5 inches. Draw line from Q to K. This extra amount from C to Q is added for a double box pleat to be laid on the top of upper sleeve. P to O is 1 3/^ inches. Lay line Q K on the fold of the goods when cutting the cloth. Shape as represented, and add seams in cutting the cloth.
M
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
64
^
dt dt dt dt
HALF CIRCLE The
half circle cape
is
to
C
is
^
H is
to
G
is
to
K
K
%,
is
is
to J
is
ya
one inch, draw
K
as distance
a line
from L through
3 for
THE FULL CIRCLE CAPE
J to 3.
'4, J to I is
>^ and
I
to
H
is
from L
Is cut in the following
manner.
Square up and down from A.
M
line
same
bottom.
through
y^ breast.
is
the
to 7 is ^ inch and VV to 8 the same. Apply length desired from C to X and sweep from X Add enough at to Y using point R as pivot. points X and Y to make it an even run at
}a breast.
Square up and down from H. A to L and H to L is the same as A to G. Sweep from M to is yi inch below C.
Draw a B to O
to S
to 2.
V length.
}i breast.
G
I
front.
inch.
Square out from
G
to 3 is
y^ breast.
to V is length of waist and to X full Square lines B A U and V. A to D is ys, D to E is >^ and E to F
F
T
distance from
from
Square up and down from A. A to B is 4 inches and A to U
B C
CAPE.
Make
cut in the following manner.
(See Diagram A).
dt
to
(See Diagram B).
This line represents
the center of cape.
Square across
N
by
A
L.
to
at A.
A to C is it neck and A to D is J4^ Apply length from C to E F G or I or whatever length desired, and make a sweep using point B for pivot and lengthen front and back B
is
'6
neck,
neck.
G.
breast.
Sweep from O to Q by G, locating points T R S, and where sweeps cross at Q is the front shoulder
so as to get an even run.
C
point.
Draw a line from O to G and from Q to G. Sweep from F to K by G, locating points i and
is
the back,
The 2.
e^ e^
collar
standing, turn
^
B the side and D the front of neck. on either of these capes may be a down
e^ e^
or a high standing collar.
(8)
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
66
CAPE. The
diagram
opposite
page
small
V
cape.
to
front
is
one
of
circle
large
cape
larger
is
has regular
it
go out and
The
coat.
The
shoulder;
the
in
flaps
threequarter
of
consists
same
in,
finished
a
as
with
a
cape on and one
cut
with
fly
and but
in
in the
shape of an opening of 8 inches
each side of the cape
is
made
so that the lady can
pass her arms through and get into the pockets.
The collar is 2 inches standing and 2]/^ inches turn down and closes in front with two hooks and eyes. The small or top cape is made plain. It has a 2)^ inch standing collar made with a fly, with button The draft holes and buttons on to the larger cape. is
produced by the proportions of the breast and
bust measures, as follows;
A A A
to
E
is
to
F
is
G is G to K is
Square cross
line
to
A
is
J^ breast,
B
to
C
is
i/S
breast,
J^ breast, Vi inch.
on on
through F
J
P and V.
division.
H
to
O
The
M
and
N
to
large cape
is
cut with a
the following simple to J is
y'i
inehes for lap in front.
is 2
method
V
shoulder and
in the
used in obtaining
is
it:
breast.
from A F
j
V and
and P
P V lay over to
Q
pivot
R, letting 2
it
inches
and paste or pin pattern
F,
Q
together from J to P and V R. the small or top cape there is no V taken out in the shoulders. is
very easily understood, as
straight piece of cloth
on division.
shaped a
so that the top edge will be a finished.
S D.
A
]/(,
.The collar
.\
with short arm resting on
division.
from shoulder point
B.
A C and
A
from
overlap so that point 8 on back will be
bust.
C, and square
A
diagram.
in
collar, 17 inches.
Place corner of square at A, letting short arm rest
from
breast on division.
at J, letting points
ECHO.
B
line
Apply length of cape from E to S and D, and sweep from D to M by A foi^ front length. Add from P Q to V R breast and shape as shown
On
A
and draw dotted
line
Split pattern through
TO DRAFT. straight line
^ ^
to
Full length of small cape, 22 inches.
Draw
H
H.
H, and square
Full length of cape, 34 inches.
Neck, over dress
>^ bust.
is
Place corner of square at
F
Breast measure, 34 inches, taken snug. Bust measure, 36 inches, taken easy.
H to
over
tons up to the neck with five buttons on the front.
An armhole
to
a
pocket with
man's
B
Square down from
at
K
inches high; 2 yi
inches.
to 2 to
and
2
4
and
i
trifle
to 3
it is
trifle in
is
simply a
making,
shorter
when
the stand,
3 to 5 is the turn
2
down,
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
68
COMBINATION CAPE METHOD. On
THE PRUSSIAN COLLAR.
opposite page will be found a combination
method
From
of drafting capes.
be drafted the
i/^
circle military
method may
this
cape or the regular
shoulder cape with a seam in the center of shoulder.
The 1
The accompanying
draft
is
for a
normal
figure.
A
C
to
2
C
Square back from
C
D
to
to R.
is
I
to D.
A
F
F
is
to
G
is
to S
is
breast.
to T.
G
from
through P to O, and from
from
A
B
through point P to "leopard spot."
is
The
M
T
as
inches.
W
to
X
and
U
W
to U.
whatever
desired for lap in front. full size
of the draft will
make
A
to
K
as indicated
by
For from A to I as indicated by dot and dash line. stooped or erect figures slide point A up or down on back center line according to whatever stoop or is
wanted.
down from A to 2, form go back inch erect and for a j'2 half an inch, neck gorge change the half inch, then from A to 3, e., for a center point, /. new to conform to the and to B _^ should 2 F be stooped figure 2 to is and figure to F erect }'i breast, and in an 3 3 to B flyfront and has a made usually The cape is M^. a
J/2
inch stooped form go
^
a threefourths
and by splitting it through on the shoulder from T to P and plaiting N over to O as per dotted line 8, 9, P O, we have a 3^ circle with a V taken out By cutting pattern as illustrated by in the shoulder. circle cape,
the shaded portions the regular cape
from
For a short neck figure go up from C to L whatamount neck is shorter than proportion. Sfluare out to point H and draw back center line
For
to Y, 2 inches, or
line
line.
ever extra
erect
2^
Square down from U to V. Draw line from A through
Add from
front of
VARIATIONS.
dotted
breast.
lines
is
on point
for
draw back center
line
U
rest
^ i/^
pivot. to
to 4 is 2 inches.
}i breast.
Apply length desired from F to E. Sweep from E through N* O to R using point
C
to 3 as illustrated in diagram.
J^ inches for stand.
For a lady with a long neck add from C to whatever extra height in neck is desired, square back from N to J and lay corner of square at point A,
through P to N.
Draw
2
breast.
>^
Square up from S
Square
is I
to 2.
inches.
is 2
to 5
i
to 3.
collar.
to E.
to
to 3
i
Lay corner of square at 3, letting arm 4 and square down from 3 to 7
Lay corner of square at point A, letting short arm rest at point D and draw back center line from
A A
drafted by drawing a line from
5 to 6 is 3 inches.
i^ breast.
is
is
Shape from
TO DRAFT.
Draw a straight line from A down Make a point at A. A to B is J^ breast.
collar
Square down from
is
obtained.
*«*««$€'
Prussian collar.
—
Note. This method of cutting capes good for both ladies and gentlemen.
I'^^l^a S:^$»
will
hold
x\\
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
7Â°
BICYCLE SUIT. THE COAT. Square
A
to
C A
to
D
to
is
E
^ breast ^ inch.
to J
^
B
D
is
^3 breast.
is
J^
to
H
is
>4 bust.
half
to to
length desired.
E.
U
breast.
is
]i bust.
L
is
half breast
H to T to U is
J
K M
on division. and square down from L
V
and
I
>,{.
N A O O R
is
inches and
D
regulated as follows;
W
to
X
y, inch;
X
to
Y
to
3
1^
is
I
to
O
to
Q
is
to
P
is ^4;
to S
to N.
i^ breast.
is
is
inches.
from C
line
y% breast plus
the
VX
inch.
bust.
same
as
Q
to R.
to 14 is 1)4 inches.
14 to 15
inch.
waist suppression is
to
T. I
to
Draw
M
W
full
way between G and H.
Square up
The
F
breast.
is y'l
K G
to
inch.
Yz
of the waist length.
to
I is I
and
waist length, to
is
Square lines B C
B B B B
Y to Z 2 inches, making the distance from D to V J4^ of waist measure. Apply measure from V to U and find out how much more it measures than ){ waist and divide the difference into three parts and take out y'l each between i and 2, 3 and 4, and 5 to 6. Let spring of sidebody run through point E. Sidebody and underarm piece overlap i}4 inches from 7 to 8 and i y^ inches overlap from 9 to 10 and y2 inch is taken out between 11 and 12. inches and
and A B D.
3}4 inches.
is
is
to a is
a to
D
C B
A N
lines
Shape
is
Yi inch.
as represented in diagram.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
72
CYCLING KNICKERS. The cycling knickers on opposite page from the following measures: lo
Rise,
Band
Waist, 24
I
Note. chair.
to knee,
23 '4
Seat,
at
knee, 14
40
—
The rise is taken from Lady sitting.
the hip
to
seat of
A
B
to
A O N and A B
is rise,
knee, 23
C
D
to
B F
F
^2 seat
to
G
Is of seat
half
to
length to
D
E
to
4 inches.
is
to
N
and down from
G
H
10.
measure and 5
2
inches.
as
shown
in
dia
gram.
L E
to
V
to
W
J to
C
to
U X
is is is is
2^
inches.
Z
is
3/
is
and
P.
J4^
inch.
inch.
Apply waist measure from N to O deducting darts and from Q to R making it ^i waist and 4 inches. Take out 2 darts each i '4 inches at 6 to 7 and 8 to 9. A twoinch band put all round the waist with openings in the side 5 '_• inches down from O to 11. This opening is made with a fly and has two small
at 2
be placed
in the fly.
placeil at the waist
from
W
a
and has one small button.
fly
This opening
to 12.
is
also
made
with
the lady points
C
overlap; the
shown
in
darts at the bottom at
Lengthen forepart
Y
to
10
inches.
E and L will come up to and button close around the leg just J below the knee allowing the extra length to
inch.
as
to
line
1}^ inches.
Shape forepart
to S
X
of seat.
'
way between
is 2
When on
2j4 inches.
^
B
half
is
band at the side. back part is straight The cut across at the bottom and has no darts taken out. The bottom is gathered in and sewed on to the band one inch and a half wide. opening is made in the side about 4 inches up, as An
to L.
J. I
inch darts at 4 and
i
to
may also A hook and eye is
measure on division.
y^ of waist
Take out
G O
is
Pockets
way between C and is
'6 of seat.
T
buttons.
a line tlirough center
O
'6 of seat.
is
to
E.
halfways between B and G.
is
Draw
N
outside
is
on division.
Square up from F
H
and
B C D
to
I is
C.
C
to
.'\
'j
4 inches
is
Scjuare lines
lo;
is
W
TO DRAFT. Square lines
M
10 to P
F
I
Outside length
THE HACK PART.
produced
is
'4
diagram taking out three i, 2 and 3. inch.
D
K.
full
length will then be as to line
The distance from C
according
to
style
practice that 4 inches
«^ t^ f^ ^^ i^
to
or fancy, but is
just
about
I
D may
be
find in
my
right.
(9)
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
74
DIVIDED RIDING SKIRT. The divided skirt on opposite page is produced in manner from the following measures:
the following
Outside length,
40)/^
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
76
[llAl.kAM
A.
BICYCLE SKIRT. The diagram
represents the
eight equal parts.
The
checked represent the
full circle
parts
that
the
skirt,
divided into
Start at center
are shaded pin
is
is
be cut
TO PRODUCE THE DRAFT. a straight line as
as I
from to
7,
7 to 8;
taking a
i
to 2,
four times.
2 to 8,
8 to
I,
The bottom laid
square crossways
then take half the distance from
and draw across This may be done by 4, and 5 to 6. square piece of paper and folding it
7 to 2,
lines 3 to
from
F
is
'3 of waist
in a separate piece of
double box pleat
cut out of the circle.
The back
Draw
to
measure; line
H
F,
is
letters
F,
The pleats may cloth. The reverse
front; S, S, sides; B, B, back.
plain parts with
dotted lines represent the pleats, and the diagonal portion
â€”
prominent part of hip;
to
The
on
is
is
laid in front
a triple fold
of skirt
is
box
and both
sides.
pleat.
finished with a
mohair braid,
flat.
skirts may be made with or without lining, but should have an extra lining from the waist down to the hips,
and the pleats fasten down to the The opening may be made in
lining at the hip.
the back or in the sides.
Add
seams.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
77
BICYCLE SUIT. Draw
DIVIDED SKIRT.
D R
a line from
to 7
D
through 6 to
it.
is iS seat.
to 9 and H to 10 is j^ seat. Shape as represented. to 6 are sewed together. 3 to 4 and Lines 8 9 go in with the pleat in the back and I 2 go into the pleat in front. 1 1
Add
Finish as represented.
THE
To more cap
seams.
CAP.
fully illustrate the
method
of cutting the
shown, but when once under
all six pieces are
stood only one piece
DIAGRAM
lines
is
required in drafting.
The
B.
Diagram B represents a divided skirt and is drafted on the same principles as the bicycle skirt. Square lines A, C, F and A, D, E. B is halfway between C and D. Draw a line from A through B.
A
to
B
is y'i
B
to
G
is
waist measure.
length of skirt, 34 inches.
Sweep from C
to
D
by
A
and from
I
through
G to H
by A.
Add
for pleats as
The crossed
shown
in
diagram.
represent the parts that makes
lines
to
I
and
I
to 2
2)4 inches.
is
F to 4 is ^ of seat measure. Draw a line from C through 4 I
3
is 2
7
to 8
E
to 5
inches above
and 10 is
i"?
to 9
seat.
5 to 6 is Vs seat.
to 3.
J.
is
point to consider
size 7 (21 inches),
7
is
the size of the cap; say
it is
inches being the diameter of cap
wanted we take half of seven 354 inches, and make
the divided skirt.
C
first
2}^ inches.
a circle using point
B
as a pivot then divide the circle
making each piece ^}i inches
by }i which
is
sary to
21 inches or size
go to
all this
7.
Draw
line
ABC.
it
is
the total of
not neces
trouble in drafting a cap as the
same principle may be applied out of one piece.
Now
in cutting the pattern
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
78
BICYCLE SUIT. THE
A
is 2
to J
J to
B
is
to
E E
)4 of the size or
i^,
%
each way to
J
^
is
(continued.)
Draw line A B. to B is the length,
E.
inches or any height required.
'4
Sweep from
A
CAP.
EA
Square across
of circumference of cap.
D
D.
each way making each piece from
or
if
only 4 pieces
and
y:^
if
E
a 5piece
to
cap
and so on. from E to i and E to 6. Square across from i to 6 and draw lines from i to B and 6 to B thus forming a triangle i 6 B. This triangle will only come in a six piece cap. is
wantefl
Square up
J
lines
In shaping the crown add 7
is
of an inch round at 7
crown stand out, and if a snug wanted reduce or round off a trifle at D D. THE VISOR.
so as to
cap
make
3/^
the
F and F is half way of visor from F to G or H is
Visor from F to
Width of the from I }4
Draw a line B to F is I'j cap
7.
to
7
the cap. all
inches, according to style
the
way
and fancy.
BAG.
A A
D
to
is
B to C is 4 inches. Square lines and D. Line H is half way between
ABC
C
to
K
A D
to to
is
^4 inch.
E
is
^
F
is
J4 of calf
L and
measure.
to
G
is
to
L
is
^ ^
L
to
M
is
)^ of width at bottom.
of ankle measure.
of instep measure.
Shape as shown
The buttons
G.
of leg measure.
K K
diagram.
in
are placed in
N O A buttonholes. and edge.
is
the center of the leggin
%
inch from outer end of
is added from the center on the under part. Note. Add seams when cutting the cloth as no seam is allowed in pattern.
oneinch button stand
â€”
of circumference of head or the size of
Sweep F F F by
16 inches.
4 inches.
RIDING BREECHES.
B.
THE LEGGINS.
To
enable the cutter to produce a close
of riding breeches
it
becomes necessary
fitting pair
for
him or
her to have a close measure, and no lady will object to be measured in the proper manner, the same as we would measure a man for the same kind of garHowever, the following rule may be used to ment.
advantage:
If the
be 31 and the divide
it
by
4,
outside length
rise
11.
and take
is
42 the inside will
Take the outside
The remainder, ^ less yi inch, will be the The knee is two inches above onehalf length; the ankle full
length of leg.
is
leg.
of inside
two and onehalf inches above The accompanying diagram is
produced from the following measures: Outside,
length,
}( plus ^4 inch for the rise.
6
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
To
(CONTINUED.)
RIDING BREECHES.
top
is
finished with a regular waist band.
opening may be made Square up from F
F to G is ^ seat. F to I is j^i seat. Draw a line from S
is
Y
Draw J to
H
is
I
to G.
I
I
are
made
the
with a regular
u
fly
in this draft.
71
to J
I
and K.
,'8^
'firT^
inch.
E to N is the same as B to H. Draw center line from N through M, H
to
L and
M
to
R
Apply onefourth knee measure from
Q. .\pply onefourth of ankle measure from
and
U.
M
to
N
to P,
and apply the calf measure
N
O and manner
to
in like
at i6.
T 1
to
inch.
is
I
to 2 is 2^2 inches.
2 to
3
y^ inch.
is
J^ inches.
3 to 4
is 2
4 to 5
is
J^ inch.
6
is
2j^ inches.
5 to
Shape forepart
as represented.
THE BACKPART. E.xtend lines at waist, seat, knee and bottom.
G
X
to
L to U Draw a
seat.
is
t'j
is
3 inches.
line
from
I
U.
to
K
to
W
is
2j^ inches.
R
to II
is
^
Q
to 12 is yi inch.
1
N
inch.
below knee.
4 inches
is
and
to 17
N
to 18
and iS
17 to 13
and
j4 inch.
to
is
inch.
i
onefourth ankle measure Apply the measure over the calf 14
is
at 16.
Add
by broken
line at 15.
as indicated
by dotted
a button stand as indicated
Take out
a half inch
V
at
M
lines.
U
to 7
2j4 inches.
is
inch.
to 8
is
I
8 to g
is
2^
7
9 to 10
10 to
V
is is
inches.
13^ inches.
2^
inches.
Shape as represented.
'A'htnri
I
The
or quite
sides,
(^
and G.
way between B and G.
half
they
in
inch.
a line from
K
is
^
is
often
Seams are included
way between
half
S to
to T.
79
^^
front.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
8o
RIDING JACKET. By proportions from Height,
the following measurements:
TO
A
to
B
is
B
to
C
is }i(
A
D
to
inches, being
i6)4
to
'i inch.
A
to 22 is
C
is
E
and
to
F
is
to
H is ^, H K to L is
to
I is
i.^,
I
down
yi full bust.
to J
is
'^, J to
Draw to 21,
Points J
V
and
and
J
U L
K
is
li,
L.
will
then form the diameter of
but as the scye in a lady's garment is somewhat wider than in a gentleman's, I advance from L to 10 onehalf inch and recede from onehalf inch. The arm scye will then J to 1 scye,
1
be nearly a
indicated by dotted line
circle, as
2721.
Point
G
half
is
Square up from
way between E and
G
as
K
same
the
S to 19
is
F
and 16
to 21
to 21,
parts
points
Z
is
O
and
D
to
is
I
G
K
to
W
is
the
to
Y
as 27 to 21.
yi breast,
F.
and 10 into three equal and P, and square up
O
and
to 18
is
P.
to 2
is
to 3
is 2^4^
3 to 4 is
4 to
19 to 20 '<(
is
^
inch.
inches.
is
6 inches.
inches.
inches.
inch.
I
5 is 2\( inches, thus making body and underarm piece j^ is
is
â€˘'s
I 5^6
^
9 to 8
is
8 to 7
is 2'/S is
Shape
"vK
i
yi inch.
1
14 to 6
halfway between B and V.
I ^'2
2
17 to 9
and locate points
through
to 13, yi inch,
and the distance from 27
Shape front as represented. D to 23 is 1 inch, and D to 24
15 to 17
to R.
Divide distance between
X
as represented.
_!Â§.
Square up lines
X
from
a 4ine
add from
Square down from F to 15, and advance from 15 to 16 one inch. Then draw a line from 16 to F and a line from S to F.
Divide breast into eight equal parts.
C
W.
j4 inch.
same
of height plus }4
B C and D.
j4 breast,
This line wi/
12.
be seen that the distance from
It will
inch. lines
W
and shape
}(
through Z to
ys breast.
is
is
Square to
X
point
DR.^FT.
3j^ inches, being /< of height plus breast plus }4 inch.
is
A
A B D and ATS.
Square lines
T
point of back at
Waist, 24 inches.
Breast, 34 inches.
a line from
locate top of front shoulder, also lower shoulder
Bust, 36 inches.
4 inches.
5 feet
Draw
inch.
inches.
inch.
inches.
Jj4 inches.
as represented.
the back and side of waist measure.
(10
)
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
82
RIDING SKIRT. niagram on opposite page.
The measures used
in drafting are as follows:
Full length of skirt 40 inches.
From
18^
waist to right knee,
The width
inches.
of skirt
A
to
B
is
B
to
C
is
A X and A
'
.?
A
to
E
G E E F L
is
is
half
to
ÂĽ
to
X
to
L
to
M
is
using
B
as pivot.
14 waist.
way between A and
F
S
to
skirt.
Lay corner
at
point
12 to
PL
to Q.
II to 7 is
down from O
Apply measure iS'j inches from out a slash of
nothing
at 5
and
arm
rest
througli 5
to
6,
i^
The lower
6.
R
and take
part should be cut
an inch shorter than the top and stretched out so as make tiiis part hollow and fit in close in the
when
in a sitting position.
Point 10
O. I
The
is
half
dart at
O
way between point is
1 j^
6
and
line
inches and the dart at P
M is
inch.
Shape
side
from
H
from
U
E
to
down
to
F
as
through S and
from
T
7.
through 12 to
is
shown
diagram.
in
R
is
rest at
U
5 inches.
I
!'2
1 )4
V
to
W.
inches longer than 12 to inches longer than 11 to
S. 8.
I
\V to
O, P to Q.
There is a 5 to 6inch turnup or hem at the bottom of skirt and the top of the skirt must be lined. The opening is made on the left side as illustrated on the pattern, also a pocket side
the
diagram.
seam or
.\n elastic strap
iS^SSSSSs*
is
either put lengthwise
crossways is
for the foot to hold the skirt
ÂŤSi5$$!S$:S5
11.
of )i( inches is taken out between 7 and 8. Measure back part from U to S, R to 7 and 8 to and make forepart the same length from C
in left
V
to
AV
J^ of
lap
U
Square down from
inch in the center running out to
i
line
Lay corner of square at S letting long arm and square down to 12.
to L.
of square at O, letting
from
a parallel line
line
a line
R.
and draw a
inches.
is 2
line
Square up from M to O. Draw a line from O to C, and add above inches as shown in diagram.
L and draw
U
to J is 4 inches.
Draw Draw
length of skirt, 40 inches.
yd the distance from
to
3 to 4
R
40 inches or same as length of
is
T
for top of back.
E.
length of skirt.
>'8
is full is
D
way between F and
half
Shape left side from J to through I to F. Apply waist measure from C to 5 and D. Place this amount at I and measure up to U, and whatever amount is over the full waist measure is to be taken out in two darts as from i to 2 and
waist. 5 to
20 inches being the same as the length of
is
Square up from
G
C.
4 inches.
Sweep from C through
is
length.
its
TO DRAFT THE FOREPART. lines
T
R
the skirt.
regulated by the
is
length, the width of the skirt being twice
Square
to
Waist, 24.
a sitting position,
in
THE BACK PART.
F
as indicated on sewed on the forepart down.
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OK CUT TING LADIES' GARMENTS.
^ ^ ^ ^ ^
RIDING SKIRT. than the
H
to J
is
drafted from the proportions of
F L
to
N
is
to
M
.V
to
I
This riding skirt
preceding one.
It is
the size of waist, hip
and length of
Hip,
26
Waist,
more form
is
42
I
fitting
skirt as follows:
Length of

skirt,
40
oneeighth of hip (<( on division). ij^ inches.
is j/^
is
Take out a
THE FOREPART (sEE DIAGRAM
Draw
Square across
A
to
A B from A to
a straight line
B
is
and
'/a
if
extra length
two inches
D
to
C
is
]/(,
to
F
to
D
full
length of skirt'
desired add from one to
extra.
C and
N
K
D.
to 4
to
7
is
oneeighth of hip
to
is
onefourth of length.
to
G
is
oneeighth of hip {]^ on division).
(14^
on division).
is ]'}
8 to 9
is
2
and
3 to
2,
M
to N.
K
by N.
3
so as to
I
hip on division.
inch and
K
from
to 6 7
is
i
inch.
to N.
one inch.
(See back part Diagram
A^ ÂŤ^ A^ A^ A^
make
M, one two inches
inches.
straight line is
to
i
than half of waist measure.
is 2
Draw
E F
between
as
Draw a line from Sweep from M to 4 to 5
of length.
Square lines B
B E
is
less
L.
V
distance from
C.
and
of kngth
A).
hip on division.
one inch.
B on page
87.)
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADiES' GARMENTS.
86
«««««««»
RIDING SKIRT. THE liACKPART (DIAGRAM Square
A B
line
Square across
A
A
to
to
B
is
to to
E F
X
G K
to
H
ys length
is
is
to
(
and F
^4
on division).
M
to
G
3 to 5
is
is
length.
oneeighth hip {y^ on division).
ways between F and L. from K through P and R forming point Q, and sweep from a to R by Q. Sweep from R to S by K. S to
G
to
a line
T
I is
^
I
Sweep from
O V
to
to
V U
is
is
N
to
I
1
to
U
is
is
A
to
D
on the fore
of hip (3^ on division).
I
A and
inches and
)^
A and one
at
inch in a
V
R. i
to 3
is
6 inches.
4 inches. I
^
inches.
4
is
3 inches.
4 to 6
is
10 inches.
L
is
one inch. Shape as represented and add seam when cutting the to 7
cloth.
The opening
inches.
T
I
to 2 is
2 to
inches.
is 2
as
3 inches.
^
between
is lialf
Draw
same
Reduce waist one inch
oneeighth hip
is
length, the
is
X is Y is
VV to
Square lines B and C.
C E
D
to
D.
at A.
length.
)i(
A
part.
}i length.
is
C
li).
by
is
I.
The
}( inches.
is
skirt
WSSSSS^^o
from
A
to B,
which
fly.
must be lined over the knee as indicated
by dotted
3^ inches.
in the left side as
finished with a
lines.
^S€e«s«»*
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
VARIATIONS.
(Diagram
A B C
H H
B
to to
C F
is
halfways between breast and bust.
is
4 inches (normal height
^ is
5 feet 4 inches).
and underarm piece, and arm piece and point T.
breast.
half breast
^
and C
to
G
half bust.
K
to is
I
L
is
^
bust; square
The depth
breast.
Square down from
H
C and to
R
F; square
down
and advance from
R
to S
Shape front center from K through X, G to S, as The crossed lines illustrated by crossed line. represent the normal draft. To change from the normal to the corpulent I take as a standard that the normal waist should be ten The accominches less than the breast measure. panying draft Diagram B is 34 breast, 36 bust, and Now if we want to change this to 30 waist 24 waist. we have six inches of extra fat, as we are cutting or drafting only half of the body we only use 3 inches, half of the extra fat, and add from S to U, 2 inches, being Yi of the extra fat and from E to T we add the i
inch or onethird of the extra
D
fat.
suppress
between
and
I
P as
L
J^ breast. to 2 is the
same
as
L
W
to
i
and
X
to 3
is
the
called the
length becomes longer as indicated by point
minor dorsal length
M
height.
to is
L
is
is
2
2
N
is
the long
i
necked
i
N
long necked
to 2 the
is
the
V
figure.
the normal front length of shoulder.
V
The
2.
three sixtyfourths of entire
the regular shoulder,
the short neck and
V
to
i
figure.
These variations are obtained by either a shoulder measure or short measures, depth of scye and strap Points
same
scye.
7
is
and
6 represent the
halfways between
I
diameter of the
and
N
4.
is
half
ways between 6 and between breast and bust measure. Y is halfways between 4 and 5 and X halfways between 3 and 4; the distance from Y to P O and X must be the same as Y 8 N to X. The major dorsal length from B on division and C to D is J4 inch.
I.
For smaller waist than normal I suppress in darts and side so as to make forepart measure onefourth waist as from T to"S (see Diagram A), and the back
3, 4, 5
8 plus onequarter the difference
It will
to
L N
short neck and
is
length.
W
to
B being
to
is obtained from the height and minor dorsal length, the distance from B to D being the longer distance is called the major dorsal length, and is obtained from the breast or size of arm. If we have a short figure to cut for the minor dorsal length will become shorter as illustrated by point r, and if a longer figure the minor dorsal
is
T
W
A
A
from
of scye, the dorsal length, as
contains two different quantities.
I
enough so as to make it onefourth of the waist, and takeout enough in the darts and side to make it measure onefourth Sweep from S to V by G waist from from T to U. inch for 14^ for front length, recede from K to every inch the front has been advanced from S to U, to N and go back from then draw a line from then
D
the shortest distance
to E.
one inch.
remainder
between under
in the side
(Diagram A).
to
halfways between
Never take out more
LONG AND SHORT NECK.
up to K. N is halfways between B and 6. Draw a line from N to K. to J is
to T.
than Yi inch between back and side body at waist, but take the extra suppression out between sidebody
B).
to
E
onefourth waist from
THE CORPULENT FIGURE.
to
C
is
^
breast
be noticed that the front shoulder points neck as at K i and 2 remains on
also the center of
the
M
I
same perpendicular and 2 on the back.
line in all cases,
also points
)<
w
U
r^
^
^<^,
^g
2
4
7
if
DIAQA
<$)Â£:
SK (i I)
T
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
90
VARIATIONS. The
easiest
way
of finding whether our client
stands normal, erect, or stooped, undoubtedly a comparison of
is
by
the upper shoulder measure and
length of strap in the following manner:
than half of the upper shoulder as follows: Strap,
Upper shoulder,
II
D
go back from
to
E
and draw up
}i breast;
i^ bust;
then from
from F
line
E
to
top line,
to
and allow front shoulder point to come up to top as in Diagram A. This will make the normal
line
In a normal figure the strap will measure one inch less
I
F
pattern
back
inch erect, or in
]{,
not lowered, but
is
make
inch then we will
24
}4 inch erect,
all if
the back
the
if
lowered
is
yi
the pattern one inch erect.
I
LARGE AND SMALL BLADE.
(See Diagram A.)
A
M
C is onethird upper shoulder plus )4 inch, and C to B is ^ breast (on division) plus •^ inch. is always halfway between B and L.
D
is
D
to
halfway between half of breast and half of bust
of breast, and
the only point that
is
I
use
Square up from
E
K is on
Draw
K
to
a line from
N
The
^
is
K
to
the
same
line with A.
M.
breast.
normal pattern, and which is produced from
the broken lines the erect,
the following measures: Strap, 11 J4; upper shoulder, 24; half of strap is 12, one inch less makes it 11,
which is the normal strap to a 24 upper shoulder. By comparing the normal strap, 11, to our measure, which is yi, we find that our client is j/3 inch erect, so I lower the back y^ inch as from A to i, and raise the front ]/2 inch as from K to i, and draw a line from M to i, which is yi inch above K. Points i, 1
1,
1
indicate the pattern for the ereet form on Dia
I
gram A. The stooping form The solid lines represent lines
2,
2,
is
are for the stooped
2,
on Diagram B.
illustrated
the normal figure, the broken figure
from the
following measures: Strap, 10 J^; upper shoulder, 24; half of upper shoulder is 12, one inch less is 11
By comparing this amount with the strap measure, which is }4 inch less, we find that our client is yi 2.
Lower
front
M
a line from
Nora.—
I
same amount
to 3^ inch
as from below K, as
K to
2.
the following manner:
is
blade, but
only iiyi, then we have a
I,
and
^3
to
I,
],^
measures 12,
is
then
the lower
inch smaller I
J to i.
Whenever blade is smaller than normal and point moved back say J/o inch, point H must recede ]^ inch as from H to i, N to i and Q to i. The small blade is indicated by broken lines marked i, i, i, and the large blade by dash and dot lines marked 2, and whatever front of scye is moved forward or I
is
back the shoulder must be changed
onehalf
ti
e
amount forward or back. Diagram D represents an ordinary standing collar. A to B is J^ the neck. B to C is ij^ inches, or to style and fancy. inch and D to 2 is ^ inch. A to I is Diagram E represents a standing turndown colJ/^'
lar.
A A D A
to
F
to
to to to
B
is
half neck.
and B to C is i^ inches. F and C to E is 2 inches. I is one inch and D to 2 is the same. 3 and 3 to 4 is i inch.
D
Diagram F
straight
standing collar and
a
connection with a
Draw
as illustrated in
Diagram G.
Make
erect in
I is
the lower
half of
if
in
at 2.
work are drafted
a normal
is
find in practice that very few ladies are
of diagrams in this
C
sometimes used
A
stooped, the most of them being erect, therefore a
number
inch less than half of
^^
to
Raise the back )4 inch, as from
inch stooped.
to
The normal blade
bust.
blade than normal, and we recede J^ inch, as from to
solid lines represent the
^
is
twothirds of breast, as from
shoulder
to K.
In a normal figure point
H
to
say 111/2 and half of the lower shoulder
we have
the division of bust for).
G
shoulder measure. If
14 bust (this
is
measure
will
measures.'
E
C
In a normal pattern the blade from
to
a circle as indicated
larger circle as per line I
to 3
shown
in
is
2
—
by line
to the neck, or to
i
—
is
top collar,
3;
make
a
4.
from
3 to 2 as
3, 4, is
sewed on
Yi of smaller circle; shape
diagram.
frill
Inside edge
band. Diagram
i,
F.
r *:^,
V u
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS.
92
GENERAL INFORMATION. HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES. To
insure a perfect fitting garment for
and forms
is
it
FOR BREECHES. all
shapes
necessary to take particular pains
when taking the measure. these measures be what
It
is
matters not whether
well to
it is
remove
may be on our
that
waist, for
at
takes but a
it
Place a square under the arm and
make
a
mark
with chalk at bottom of scye in front and back of
make a mark in center of back opposite mark made near arm; then proceed to measure. arm, then
Place measure at top of back at neck (socket bone) and measure to front of arm to chalkmark; this measure is called strap. Then continue the measure under the arm and up to top of neck; this measure
Then place end
of tape in
the center of back, between and opposite the arm or on an average of 4)2 inches down from top of neck; let tape lay over top of shoulder under the arm and starting
to
Then
measure.
back
point;
to front of
this
is
in
the
lower shoulder
take measure from top of neck at
down to lower down to full length
neck; then continue
part of bust for top of dart, then of waist
Ne.xt
front.
measure side length from
under part of arm to top of hip; then length of back from top of neck to waist, and full length of garment desired.
Place square under arm and measure
down
Next elbow and to hand for length of sleeve. measure around arm at shoulder for scye, then width The breast measure is taken at elbow and hand.
to
moderately close above the bust; then lower tape
in
it remain in regular position in back, and measure easy over the largest part of bust. The waist measure is taken snug over the band of the skirt; for a longer garment it is necessary to take the
front, letting
hip measure.
FOR SKIRTS.
Measure the hip.
Also,
bottom.
front, side
make
a
ankle for length.
chair, lady being in a sitting position.
THE SHORT MEASURES. short instead of the shoulder measures are
If the
arm up to neck at back, then hold tape arm and measure over shoulder to mark in center of back opposite bottom of scye; this measure is called first over shoulder. Then measure from front of scye over shoulder to bottom of scye close up to arm in back; this measure is called second overshoulder, or closing measure. Then take depth of scye from top of neck to point marked in center of back on a level or horizontal line with bottom of armscye; this measure is called the depth of scye. These are the regular measures used. The cutter
bodice
few minutes to sew them on.
up
to
neck and
client's dress
the upper shoulder.
knee and
wanted, take the regular strap from bottom of scye
with these obstructions in our way;
is
to
taken from waist to seat of the
bows and other trimmings
impossible to get a correct measure
is
it
all
may be
rise
termed the short actual
measures or the long shoulder measures; either can be applied on this system. Before taking the measure
Measure from waist
The
and back length, waist and
note of what size around the
in front of in front of
may
take any other measure that he can apply in
practice.
CUTTING THE CLOTH. All patterns
according to
are without seams, and
correct
way
garments,
I
this
method
hold that this
is
the only
of drafting the various styles of ladies'
for, unlike the
gentlemen's garments, they
vary a great deal in the amount or for
of drafting
number
of seams,
we have basques and waists with one, two and
three side bodies, also one to two darts; sleeves with
one or two seams;
skirts with four to eleven gores;
most correct method is garments without seams and add seams
so the easiest as well as the to cut ladies'
and outlets when cutting tHe cloth. In laying the pattern on the goods the forepart should lay so that the front seam of the first dart will run with the tread or lengthwise with the material, of first dart will then be on the bias; of second dart on the length of seam and the front seam of second dart will be on the back goods and center seam of the back should lay The the bias. at top and in from the edge at of goods with edge Lay the side body so that inches. two waist about underarmpiece to match and back, the it matches
the back
seam
the side body.
The center
of sleeve should run lengthwise.
The
SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. front of skirt
is
usually cut on
the fold and
all
bias
are sewed up separate and put together the same as
edges of the gores go to the back and the straight edges to the front unless there be an extra back gore,
in
when
A
the bias edges of the
back gores meet the bias
edges of the side gores.
93
gentlemen's garments.
have a
It is well to little
little
extra size across the chest.
too large over the bust
is
far better
snug, and unless the lady has a large bust well to allow a
MAKING TO TRY ON.
little
than
will
be
extra size over the bust and
fill
it
up with stiffening and wadding. Large sized sleeves should be interlined with fibre chamois or scrim; also the skirt should be it
In silk waist or
when other
for the waist, the lining
lining
goods goods
is
cut and
is
placed on a form or
is
fitted
to
the
thin material fitted,
dummy
lining.
is
used
then the
and the outside
In cloth or woollen
it is best to cut the cloth for the tryon. In basting up the waist for try on the back, sidebody
interlined with
A
same
material.
French canvas, cut on the bias, 8 to lo inches wide, should be put in the bottom of the skirt. The bottom of skirt is finished with a corduroy or strip of
and underarm pieces should be sewed together, as it is found that the basting will not hold the waist
velvet binding.
together close enough;
above the natural waist and button on to a waist, so that the skirt will hang on the shoulders instead of
if
basted,
must be done
it
very carefully or the seams will pull apart.
seams,
seams
also the darts,
The
side
should be basted with
the
and the darts should not be cut out until after the garment is tried on. The sleeves and collar should be basted into tryon, and in delito the outside
cate shades or light weight goods the skirt lining
be cut out and the lining.
and the outside goods cut from and other light weight materials
the goods and linings are basted together and sewed together in the seams; the seams are pressed open
and bound.
In woollen goods, the
goods and lining
^ ^
dress reform skirt should reach
the hips.
On
the
2 to 3
inches
tailormade gown, suit or wrap
there should be no braiding or trimming of any kind, for in order to give
it
the stricdy tailormade effect
fancy trimmings must be
all
may
fitted
In silk
The
Seams and edges may be all
ornamentations must be
great left
number
of
first
left off.
stitched or strapped,
and
strictly tailormade.
A
class tailors will insist
on the
forepart overlapping the right forepart in front,
the backtack being laid to the right the
gentleman's coat.
ÂŤ^ ÂŤ^ ÂŤ^
same
as
on a
CHAS. ÂŤ^i*
t3^
e^"*
The Designing, Cutting and
Ci?^
of all Kinds
^
G arments ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
Taught
Evening Classes when necessary. Tuition
Instructions given daily (except Sunday)
from 9 A. M.
to
must be paid
4 P. M.
(^^
<^*'
INCREASING THEdemonstrated manner
t^^
tÂŁ^
popularity of the Art of Ladies'
in a
are seeking the best
entirely satisfactory to us,
system
STONE
/Vlal(ing of
and Gentlemen's
Isadies'
who
J.
President and General Manager
<5^
in
advance in
all cases.
t2^
Garment
Cutting,
and should be
as taught
sufficient to
by
this
School,
is
impress upon those
that
we
are prepared to impart information and thorough instruc
we aim
to
make our work
tion not equalled in this country.
Our
facilities are
a pupil, and indorsed
ment, and
We
it
fill
find
unequalled, and
him
as competent, he
is
fully
prepared to take a position
in
when we have any
instructed
firstclass establish
with acceptability to his employer and credit to us as his instructor.
each session a greater
demand than we
the acknowledged superiority of our Systems, and
The Systems
so complete that
are capable of
accommodating.
This we attribute to
an acceptable tribute to our proficiency as instructors.
is
taught by us have received universal endorsement from the Cutting Fraternity as correct in
theory and reliable
Our charge The time
in practice.
for a
thorough course of instruction
is
One Hundred Dollars
usually occupied by students in perfecting themselves
is
few require more time, but we have no limit as to time for instruction, as leave our school until
we
are satisfied of their perfection.
We cannot
paid in advance.
about four weeks, although some it is
our desire that no one shall
afford
to
have pupils leave us with
but an indifferent knowledge of the theory of garment cutting; they must be perfect before we will furnish
them with a certificate.
Under no circumstances
will
we
of the pupils to satisfactorily use the Systems taught them.
issue
diplomas unless convinced of the
ability
... .
RELIABLE MODEL PATTERNS ~><FORNr=C_
BARMENTS
LADIES' SIZE
EACH FULL SET i 00 S i o 00
Basque, bust
2840
Jackets, any style, bust
2840..
i
D. B. Reefer, bust
2840..
Cutaway Coats, bust
.
.
g
.
00
.
.
.
.
.
SIZE
Riding Breeches, waist
2032
10.00
Leggins
i.oo..
10.00
Caps
2840..
i.oo..
10.00
Bicycle Coats, bust
2840
D. B. Frock, bust
2840
.
1.25
12 .00
Bicycle Skirts, waist
2032
D. B. Ulster, bust
2840
.
1.25
1
Golf Capes, bust
2840
D. B. Vest, bust
2840
.
5.00
Double Capes, bust
2840
Costume
2032
.
.75
75Â°
Three Decker Cape, bust.
2032
.
.50
10 .00
2032
.
1.50
10 .00
Riding
Skirt, waist
Skirt, waist
Divided Riding
Skirt, waist
.
.
.
.50
.
i
2
.00
Single Sleeves
6
.
7
..2840
2840
EACH
Works on
ruttingf ^^^
Stone's
.  
of TheanAuthor active part
this in
System in
our profession, and after
all
^
*
^ ^ ^ ^ cutter,
practical work,
and organized
his
He
cutters' societies.
has
always ready to exchange ideas with leading
now
these twenty years of hard study, he has
having hundreds of pupils using
who have
of
has spent twenty years at the cutting board; he has taken
advancing the custom
always been a leader
students
*•*.
and Gentlemen's
Garments
faction of
.
New Superlative System
Ladies'
in
•8e;®c'
Designing and Cutting
•
men
—
FOR SALE AT OL'R OFFICE.
methods
and we
of cutting,
carried off medals and prizes at conventions held
the satis
you
refer
to
our
by the National Custom
Cutters' Association of America.
Stone's Superlative SvJstem of Cutting laadies' Garments, Stone's Superlative Coat and Vest System (new), Stone's Superlative Trouser Sjjstcm (new),
=
=
=
Stone's Superlative Shirt and Drawer SvJstem, is
what we teach
in
5.00
=
Stone's Paramount Coat, Vest and Trouser System,
The above works on Cutting
$10.00
5.00
=
=

our School, and
will
5.00
3.00
be sent prepaid by
mail on receipt of price.
Send Chicago Exchange or will
Postoffice
Order and the book
will
be sent by mail.
No book
be sent C. O. D.
Correspondence must,
in all cases,
be addressed to the house.
Address
all orders to
THE CHAS.
J.
STONE
CO.
194 and 196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO, ILL All communications will receive
prompt
attention.
>
THE CHAS.
J.
STONE
CO.
——
CUTTING SCHOOL194196 La Salle Street,
Terms
for Instruction— to
For a complete course of Instruction Coat System, alone Vest System, alone Trouser System, alor.e Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Gaiters
(to
CHICAGO
be paid in advance
Practical Tailors) in Gentlemen's
Garment Cutting (time unlimited)
,
Gra rading. Boys and Children
$100 00 50 GO 25 00 35 00 50 00 50 00 100 00
LADIES' CUTTING For complete course of Ladies' Garments Ladies' Basques, Jackets and all Over Garments Ladies' Basque, Bodice, Sleeves and Skirts
$100 00 50 OO 25 00
PRACTICAL CUTTERS Desiring to change their Systems, limited to twelve days, Coats, Vests and Trousers Price to Cutters for Coat System, alone " " Trouser System, alone
"
•'
"
**
$ 50 00
30 00 15 00 15 00 25 00
Vest System, alone Fancy Garments, Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Over Gaiters
PRACTICAL CUTTERS Eor special and
private instruction In measuring, drafting, or explaining points in Coats, Vests, Trousers or Grading, Cutting by Block Patterns, or Ladies' Cutting, occupying from one hour to one day $5.00 to $25.00
I^°This
is
a Special Feature.
Address, CHAS. J. The Chas. J. Stone (
12
)
STONE,
Priuate
Co. Cutting School,
Office,
CHICAGO, ILL.
^STQNE•S RELIABLE BLOCK PA^ERNS•^ '
I
PRICES OF PATTERNS IN SETS. Men's Overcoats, from 33
to 42 breast
measure
"
Undercoats,
33 to 42
"
Trousers,
29 to 42 waist
"
Vest,
32 to 42 breast
'*
32 to 42 bust
"
Ladies' Jackets, Ulsters,
Dolmans,
etc.,
"
"
"
Undercoats,
10 to 18
"
"
Trousers,
10 to 18
"
10 to 18
"
Vests,

it is


waist
seam
is

customer, and,
if
00
8
00
6 00



12
6 00
.

00
y^
cent, will be allowed

on
all
orders over $25. 00.
whether Cut to Measure given or Regular Blocks. 


$100

j^o


it is
for all



the following measures are necessary:
which should be given as taken over the
taken over the coat,
(the hip
This measure
is
00

it
vest,
and
be so used.
will
Undercoats to order are: Length of
and seat measures
located).

•
10
... ..... 2
especially stated that
breast, waist, hip



6 00

00
for Overcoats,
The measures necessary
.
5
r^Or special n^atternS
unless
10 00





•
Cape, or other Fancy Overcoats
The Breast Measure

10 00

...

Overcoats, any style or size
.
....

Prices of Single Patterns, Trousers and Vest, each
$12 00
.

.
.


A discount of 15 per
Undercoats, any style
•
32 1042 bust measure
Boys' Overcoats, from 10 to 18 years
"

coat, length of sleeve
measure to be taken around the form where the
of vast importance for
all skirt coats.
possible, a concise description of the figure for
For Vests and Trousers the usual measures.
The form
whom
of
it is
Get height
of
intended.
customer should be
briefly
described. All orders
for Patterns must be accompanied by a cash Remittance of at
least
50 percent.
of the amount ordered, to receive attention. Address
all
orders to
THE CHAS.
J.
STONE
CO.
194 and 196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO, ILL
CUTTERS' AND TAILORS' SUPPLIES. A
Selected Assortment of Tailors' Implements of every description. The Best in the Market, and the Tools most generally used, at
3
3K 4
reasonable prices.
\\
;n
\^
.!;:v'VL.<f
:>k< BttW
v/
1^
I*/.
r';^.
T^V
v'
"
V^
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS