Standardworkoncu00mitc

Page 78

"STANDARD" WORK ON CUTTING.

10

[Fiffh EdHiou.

GRAND

KNIGHTS' TEMPLAR COAT; OFFICER. Plate

29.

THE MEASURES USED FOR THE DRAFT ON OPPOSITE PAGE ARE AS FOLLOWS: 30 breast, 32 waist.

31 sleeve.

17 ^

18i

lengths,

-

37iJ

SELECT

Scale corresponding with the breast measure and proceed as follows

Square

B O

Scale to

;

C

to

fashionable waist

and

D

to

G

end of Scale to ;

is

OD

to

end of Scale to

C

A

;

A

O

and

;

Square out from

;

inch

I

doAvn from S

OV

lines

to

W

is

;

AB

H

EH

arm touching

the width of top of back from shoulder point ^ breast

;

Square up from

F and E

as rei)resented, raising f inch,

L

sideseam through L;

Shape sideseam

to

M

is

;

Draw

Star on line

;

from shoulder point through

a line

Shape back

it

and mark up

B,

is

ing

W

C

;

to

to

E

is

square

;

H. Where

crosses the top line locate the shoulder.

is

Draw

:

end of

is

end of Scale to S

is

;

;

down from

square

;

H ;

B

to

;

W

to I

line

;

to K is natural waist and O to V is K and V O to D is end of Scale to D,

C to F is end of Scale to F F to S From K to L is ^ breast or 2 J inches.

E

A O

O C

end of Scale to

Place angle of square at E, with one the line

end of Scale to

is

E

H

a line from

to

S

;

* on Scale from top

is

Star.

more or

less,

W

above

and carrying

If inch.

of sidebody, reducing { inch at top, i inch at blade

and carry-

through M.

Get length to

I

by the back and sweep from

by one inch back

1

of shoulder

point.

Shape under-arm cut, taking out at waist f inch Draw a line from U to junction of sweep and line squared down from S

Apply waist measure Shape shoulder

as

to

N and

add

N

as to

R

to P.

Get width of

inch at droop.

Shape gorge through

I

;

From

shoulder

and ^ inch Shape front from 2 through S and P as repreShape bottom rounding up I inch from R; From 2 to 3 is If inch Shape

point to 2 ;

from

reducing I

represented,

shoulder by the back and shape scye.

sented

2 inches

is

I breast

;

;

the seam edge of lapel as represented inches and from 8 to 9

is 2.^

;

From

3 to !

is

3

inclies

;

from

5 to 6

is

3|

inches.

Space lapel for eleven holes and brush out the fourth and eighth, leaving three clusters of three holes as shown.

The buttons

ai-e

placed 2| inches back from S and 2 inches back from

This completes the Draft.

'

/'

8.


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