THE "STANDAKO" WORK ON CUTTING
76
FLATNESS AND FULLNESS AT FRONT OF ABDOMEN DIAGRAMS
15,
16
AND
17.
THE
contour of the form in front below the waist-line varies according to natural development, and to artificial methods employed. not possible therefore to give a rule for obtaining the widths of the part in
It is
troni that will apply alike to all forms.
Each form must be studied
may
so that the material
carefully
when
the measures are taken,
be distributed with approximate accuracy
and memoranda made when the pattern is
drafted.
The different shapes may be classified Third, Medium Full. Fourth, Extra Full.
When
the form to be fitted
is
—
as follows
First, Flat.
:
Second,
Medium
Flat.
Hat in front below the waist-line, proceed as follows
Diagram 15. All the points, excepting 26, 27, 32, 34, 35, 36 and 37 are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 7. Draw a straight line from midway between the top of the darts midway between 42 and and 43. This gives 26 and 27. Q to 32 is Yx inch more than 39 to 40. From Z2 to 34 is the same as 40 to 41. From 27 to 35 is the same as from 26 to 42. From 35 to 36 is the same as from 42 to 43. From 36 to Z7 is Y\ inch less than X to 32, less the quantity taken out between 34 and 35.
When
as explained for
When
medium Hat in front below the waist-line, proceed in the same manner Diagram 7 to establish Y, W, 45, 47, 48 and 49. (Diagram 7.)
the form
is
the form
is
vicdium
Diagram 16.—All
below the waist-line, proceed as follows: the points, excepting 32, 34, Y, 35, 36 and 37 are obtained full in front
same manner as explained for Diagram 7. Establish 26 and 27 as explained for Diagram
Q
to
32
to
Y
When
to 35 is
to
is
From 36
36
is
1%
to
37
17.
^ % inch more than from 26 to 42. ^ inch more than from 42 to 43.
inch. is
the form
Diagram manner
—
^
inch less than
Y
to 32,
32
is
quantity between 34 and 35.
extra full in front below the w-aist-line proceed as follows All the points, excepting 32, Y, 34, 35, 36 and 37 are obtained in the same
as explained for
to
less the
is
Diagram
7.
Establish 26 and 27 as explained for
Q
15.
}i inch less than 39 to 40. 32 to 34 is inch more than 40 to 41. is
From From 27 From 35
X
j^ inch less than
P
Diagram
15.
to 40.
From 32 to 34 is ^ inch more than 40 to 41. From 27 to 35 is J/^ inch more than from 26 to 42. From 35 to 36' is ^ inch more than from 42 to 43.
X
to
in the
Y
is
1%
inch.