Page 1

mmm

ACTICAL:

^•DRESSMAKM

SARA.-MAy-ALLIN(


Class

TT 5\5 JiA

Book Copyright N°.

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING


Practical

Sewing and Dressmaking BY

SARA MAY ALLINGTON

ILLUSTRATED BY

ELIZABETH CLEVES BANKS

DANA

BOSTON ESTES & COMPANY PUBLISHERS


Copyright, 1913

By Dana Estes & Company. All rights reserved

C. H.

THE COLONIAL PKESS SIMONDS & CO., BOSTON, U.

r, s* ire ©CI.A351233

S. A.

A

8"


'<?

CONTENTS PAGE

v

Introduction

LESSON

i.

n n n n ir n

Stitches used in Sewing and Dressmaking

Basting Even Basting Uneven Basting Slanting or Padding Stitch

Running Stitch

.

Blind Stitch

13

Back Stitch

',

.

.

.

Overcasting

Overhanding

Hemming Cat - stitching French Knots Buttonholes To Work Buttonholes on Lace Eyelets Loops Finishing Seams Double Stitch Seams French Seam Strap Seam Raw Lapped Seam Cord Seam Fell Seam Bias Bands Milliners' Fold

17 17

.17

19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19

.....

Girdles Shirring Plain Shirring Tucked Shirring

LESSON

21

.... Own

2.

Utensils needed for Sewing and Dressmaking How to Make a Papier - mache Bust Form for One's

23

3.

Planning the Gown

LESSON

How

25

4.

The Chart with which the Drafting

LESSON

23

Dress-

making

LESSON

13 13 13 13 15 15 15 17 17 17 17

is

Done

29

5.

to 1.

2.

Take Measures Waist Measure Bust Measure

32 .

.

34 34


CONTENTS Neck Measure Armhole Measure Under Arm Measure Upper Front Measure Back Length Measure Back Width Measure Front Length Measure Arm Length Measure Elbow Measure Inside Arm Measure from Armhole to Bend Hand Measure

3. 4.

.

5.

6. 7.

8.

9.

10. 11.

12. 13.

.

-35

35 35

.

of

17.

Arm

How

.

.

-

.

11.

.

.

51

.

....

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

71

.

Make the Waist

77

16. .

.

.

.

.

.

-

piece Tight Sleeve

89

18.

The Flowing Sleeve

91

.

19.

Drafting the Sleeve with the Tight Elbow and Large Top

LESSON

.85

17.

The One

LESSON

.

15.

to Cut, Fit, and

Drafting the Coat or Lining Sleeve

LESSON

65

14.

Drafting the Waist with French Forms

LESSON

59

13.

Drafting the Waist without Back Forms

LESSON

53

12.

Drafting the Tight Waist with Back Forms

How

49

10.

The Making and Finishing of the Shirt-waist

LESSON

43

9.

to Cut the Sailor Collar, or any Large Collar

LESSON

LESSON

39

.47

waist

to Draft the Kimono Waist

LESSON

.

8.

LESSON How

LESSON

36 36 36 36 36 36

7.

Drafting the Blouse

LESSON

.

6.

Drafting the Shirt-waist Sleeve

LESSON

.35 36 .36

38

Drafting the Shirt - waist

LESSON

.

Front Length of Skirt Side Length of Skirt Back Length of Skirt Take Hip Measure

14.

15. 16.

LESSON

.

PAGE 34 34

.

93

20.

Drafting the Leg

o'

Mutton Sleeve

97


CONTENTS PAQB

LESSON 21. How to Cut, Make, and Finish the To Make the Mousquetaire Sleeve LESSON

Sleeve

ior 102

22.

Drafting the Circular Skirt

LESSON

105

23.

Drafting the Three

LESSON

-

gored Circular Skirt

109

24.

Drafting the Seven

LESSON

-

.113

gored Skirt

25.

Drafting the Nine

LESSON

-

gored Skirt

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.117

26.

Drafting the Fifteen

LESSON

-

gored Skirt

121

27.

The Full Plaited

LESSON

Skirt,

made from the Fifteen

-

gored Draft

125

28.

To Cut, Make, and Finish the Drop Skirt and Outside Skirt The Outside Skirt

LESSON

29.

.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Petticoats Women's Muslin Underwear The Petticoat with a Yoke

LESSON

129 131

135 136

30.

The Night - gown

LESSON

.

.

.

139

31.

The Chemise The Chemise without Gathers

LESSON

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

...

32.

Women's Corset Covers Corset Cover Fulled at Neck and Waist Line

LESSON

.

.141 .143 145

.145

33.

Seamless Corset Cover made from the Shirt

LESSON

-

waist Draft

.

.

149

34.

Women's Circular Drawers

To Make the Different

How LESSON

151 153

Sizes

to Cut, Make, and Finish the Circular

Drawers

.

.153

35.

Drafting the Princess

LESSON

Gown

157

36.

Drafting the Single

-

breasted, Tight

To Form Skirt of Coat To Draft the Collar

LESSON

-

fitting Tailored

Coat

.

163 166 169

37.

Loose

-

fitting,

Unlined Coat

171


CONTENTS PAGE

LESSON

38.

The Slightly Fitted Coat To Draft the Collar

LESSON

175 178

.

39.

How

Make and

to

LESSON

Finish the Tailored Coat

.

.

.

.

.181

40.

The

Child's

LESSON

Draft

191

41.

Child's Sleeve

LESSON

Draft

195:

.

.42.

Child's

LESSON

Coat Sleeve

199

43-

Child's Rompers

LESSON

203

.

44-

How

to Cut, and Finish the Rompers

To Draft the Different

LESSON

.

Sizes

207 209

45.

Boy's Russian Blouse Suit

.

.

.

The Blouse The Knickerbockers

LESSON

21 r

211

213

46.

How LESSON

Make

to

a Boy's Russian Blouse, and Knickerbockers

.

219

47.

Child's Pajama Suit

LESSON

223

.

48.

Child's

LESSON

Drawers

225

49-

How

to Make Little Girls' Clothing Child's Blouse Waist Little Girls' Underclothing Little GrRL's Skirt Child's Drawers Child's Night-gown

LESSON

229

.

231 231 231 231 223

50.

Infant's First Outfit

235 235 235 236

The Pinning Blanket For the Skirt The Waist The Infant's Skirt Infant's Slip or Night-gown How to Make the Slip or Night-gown For the Infant's Dress

LESSON

How

.

.

.237 239 243 244

51.

to

Make Use

of

Your Knowledge

245


INTRODUCTION Every woman, no matter how

she

if

circumstances

demand

it

be situated at the

command some knowledge

present time, should have at her

which,

may

suddenly, would bring her in

a good income.

There

is

no business in the world,

which brings capital

in a greater

income

for

which

for so

women

little

are fitted,

expenditure of

and time as dressmaking.

no woman who will not wish some time in her life knew something of this art. If she has children she will wish to make many things for them. If she is not a woman of wealth, she can dress herself for less than half what it will Even cost her to hire, if she can make her own clothing. There

is

that she

should she be able to hire her work done,

how much

work

herself,

work

of others.

easier it

is

if

she understands the

for her to

be suited with the

There are none so hard to please as those who

do not know how a thing should be done. Oftentimes a financial

when

there

is

no time to wait

think what to do.

With

making, one can turn to

moment's

crisis

it

comes suddenly into one's for positions

life,

and hardly time to

the knowledge of sewing and dress-

and earn a good income, at almost a

notice.

of women who are thrown out into own living. With the thorough knowledge of sewing and dressmaking we have tried to give in these pages, she can make a success wherever she may wish to put her knowl-

Almost every day we hear

the world to earn their

edge to the

test.

In almost any it is difficult is

forced to

line of

work the competition

to find a position,

work

is

so great that

and in almost every line the woman

in competition with

men, under the nervous


INTRODUCTION strain of business of the

man

dressmaking. still

room

We have

methods and at much smaller pay than that

working beside

for

The

her.

field is hers,

many more

This

and

it is

tried to give in this course a

women, no matter

for

not so with sewing and so large that there

is

workers.

course so thorough and broad that

knowledge.

is

method

it will

so simple

and a

meet the needs

of all

what purpose they may wish

to use their


AND

PRACTICAL SEWING

DRESSMAKING LESSON

I

STITCHES USED IN DRESSMAKING AND SEWING

Before taking up

the actual

learn the different stitches

and

making

utensils

of the

gown, we

will

which are necessary

for

dressmaking and sewing. Basting.

60

is

it is

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; For basting use a good quality basting thread.

preferable for

all

uses except very heavy wool goods, then

best to use 40 or 50.

For

silk or

velvet a fine thread should

be used so that it will not mark the goods.

In pulling out bastings

never try to pull the entire length of the thread.

you

stitches or

Even Basting sides.

This

is

will pull the thread in the is

It

where the

stitch is the

Cut it every few

goods and ruin

it.

same length on both

used for basting up seams.

Uneven Basting one short.

No*

is

is

where the upper stitch

is

long and the under

used for marking seams, basting in hems,

Slanting or Padding Stitch

is

etc.

used for fastening in canvas or

padding in coats.

Running is

Stitch

is

where small

stitches are taken evenly.

This

used for joining pieces of materials, tucks, gathers, and sewing

on braid or trimming. The work should be held evenly together with the

left

hand, while the needle

is

held in the right and pushed

many stitches on through. You should

back and forth through the material, making as the needle as possible before pulling practice this stitch until

out looking at the work.

it

you can take small even

stitches with-


BasTm*

Even Basting

Uneven BasTing Padding

» ~

— ~ — "—

*-

•*

——

STiYch

-

Running StItc^ Bh'nd

ST.'Tcli


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

— This

Blind Stitch.

13

used to fasten on trimming or bias

is

bands where the stitch must not show on the right

Run

side.

the needle between the foundation goods and the trimming

with a running

Take the

stitch.

through the foundation,

stitch

but only through the under side of the trimming or into the turned in edge of the bias band.

Back

Stitch.

— Make a stitch as in the running beyond the

of taking the next stitch

way back

in the next stitch

way back

each one

and take one twice as

to the one preceding

Instead

stitch.

place the needle

first,

much

Take

long.

This stitch

it.

is

used

to take the place of

machine sewing.

It is

the running stitch.

When

should resemble machine

finished

it

stronger than

stitching.

Overcasting

a slanting stitch taken over and over the

is

edge of the goods. is

This

is

used on seams or wherever there

a raw edge exposed, to keep

done from right

raw

it

The work

from raveling.

is

to left.

— The

Overhanding.

two selvages

of

goods are held evenly

together and are sewed over and over together with very small

Where two raw edges are to be sewed toraw edges should be turned down a small seam and

slanting stitches. gether, the

the edges thus formed held together the

The

selvages.

work

is

down

stitches should be very small

done from right to

Hemming. twice.

— The hem The

first

hem

is

is

turn

is

basted.

in the edge of the

and as small as

hem

is

Take the

to be it

and even.

when

The

side.

On

skirts

is

turned

stitch

if it is

which

where the hem

a piece of the goods cut just the

finished.

If

to be

hand work,

it

stitch first in the cloth, then

is

stitches slanting

taken in the cloth

should only take up one or two threads, so that

on the right

The

can be done with the

hem, and so on, making the

possible.

they were

always as narrow as possible, and

foot attachment, unless too wide, but

must always be

if

used to finish the edge and

put in on the machine

to be

as

left.

the second whatever width the

the

same

same curve

it will

too

not show

full to

turn up,

of the skirt

and the

is


Back STiTch

Over casTmo

Over Handing

CaT ST»Tchjnc


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

same way

of the cloth

sewed to the bottom

is

ing the facing the width the Stitch

of the skirt.

hem

is

to be

i$

of the skirt, hav-

and on the right

and turn on the wrong

side

side

and fasten in

place.

Cat-stitching.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; This

is

used where the goods

is

too heavy to

Turn the hem up the desired width without having turned in the edge. Hold the work so that the hem will run away from you. Take a stitch first in the hem and then turn in twice.

in the goods, in the

hem

again and again in the goods, holding

the point of the needle towards

you and making the

stitches

cross each other so that they resemble a rail fence.

French Knots. purposes.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; These

about

it

knots used for decorative

through the goods, wind the thread

it

Hold the thread down

three or four times.

with the

little

Put the needle up through the goods from the wrong

Before pulling

side.

are

left

the same place where

to the needle

Put the needle down through

thumb.

it

came up

as possible.

as near

Draw down

so

that the knot looks smooth. Button-holes. evenly.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Button-holes

They should be a

button.

It is a

should

be

cut very

scissors for cutting

thickness of goods should be used and

should be firmly basted together. it is

always

longer than the diameter of the

good plan to use button-hole

More than one

them.

little

If the

it

material frays easily,

a good plan to stitch around the button-hole before

it is cut.

Button-holes should always be stayed before they are worked.

One way stitches

is

to overcast the button-hole.

Another

is

to

form

Put the needle through from

about the button-hole.

the under side, a few threads from the inside end of the buttonhole.

end

Draw

it

Put

through.

of the button-hole

it

through again at the outside

very near the end and so the long stitch

thus formed will He close along the side of the button-hole.

Repeat

this a

second time.

the button-hole.

When

work towards the

left.

This

it is

will

form a bar of stitches about

worked, begin at the right end and

To make

the button-hole stitch, put the

needle up through the goods a few threads from the inner end


French KnoTs

BoTTo.n

LyeleTS

Loop

Hole


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING Before pulling

of the button-hole.

thread near the needle, throw

Repeat

this for

over the needle and pull through.

of the button-hole

is

to

have the stitches

one length and perfectly even,

To Work Button-holes on Lace. underneath where the button-hole

— Place a piece of thin goods is

to be worked.

Cut the button-hole through the

place. it

through, take hold of the

it

each stitch until you have been around the but-

The beauty

ton-hole. all

it

17

Baste into

and goods.

lace

has been worked, cut away the goods so that

it

After

will

not

show. Eyelets are small round holes punched in the goods with a

largely

They

and worked around over and over.

stiletto

are used

on shirt-waists, where one wishes to put buttons through

the goods so they can be easily removed.

Loops. ^— Take three or four stitches about 34 of an inch long

on top

of each other.

them

Button-hole-stitch

covering the entire length.

together,

all

This makes a strong loop which

is

used to take the place of the metal eye where the metal would show.

— Seams are finished in various ways.

Finishing Seams. plain

seam

side has

The

simply stitched up and pressed open, after each

is

been thoroughly overcast.

Double Stitch Seam Instead of pressing

it

is

stitched the

open, press

it all

outside about 3^ of an inch from the

French Seam.

one

as the plain seam.

way and

Turn and

stitch

on the

first stitching.

— Stitch the seam on the right

close to the stitching. last stitching

same

stitch

side.

on the wrong

Trim off The

side.

should come just where the seam in the garment

should be. Strap Seam. edge.

— Make a bias band of the goods, turning in each

The band should be on a

true bias.

Stitch the

the right side, press open and place the bias carefully

and

stitch

very near each edge.

coat suits and skirts.

It

seam up on

band over

This

is

it.

Baste

used on coats,

makes a very neat trimming. The bias

band may be used any desired width.


f—

*

'-.Silliii:

RiqhT

Side

wrono

.

French *Seam

STrap

^ .:..,-..; 1

-Side

Seam

Double STt'ched

<

f

.

{

i

'

K'W:-.

[.

^\^r^^r \_

„— — Raw Lap 5ean\

5eam


:

PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

19

— Place one edge of the goods

Raw Lapped Seam.

other and stitch very near each raw edge.

This

flat

on the

good

is

for

very heavy wool goods.

Cord Seam.

— Cover a small cord with the goods.

Turn

one side of the seam and baste the cord along the seam.

on the other

flat

seam and

side of the

stitch

in

Lay

on the right side

very near the cord.

— Stitch the seam as for a plain seam.

Seam.

Fell

Trim

edges one way.

raw edge

in the

off

of the

Turn both Turn

the under edge quite narrow.

down

one not trimmed and stitch

flat,

stitching as near the edge as possible.

Bias Bands.

up

— To cut bias bands, fold the corner of the goods

so that the

Make

length.

are to be and

Mark

off as

marks

lines

many bands

same

of the triangle are the

Measure

a crease.

draw

off

the width the bands

with a yardstick and

tailors'

change

will

chalk.

Cut on the

as needed before cutting.

carefully, as the least

the true bias.

made

two straight edges

throw the bands

Bias bands of thin material, like

silk,

off

should be

over crinoline before being used.

Milliners' Fold.

— This

used as a trimming.

is

Turn down one edge about

band.

}/£

Make

a bias

the width of the band.

Turn down the other about }4 of an mcn Turn the narrow edge half way up on the broad edge and blind stitch. -

Girdles.

may be to the

— A girdle should always be made on linen canvas.

hold up

be boned to

— Shirring may be done in two ways — Run the thread through the

goods with

stiff

Shirring.

The

girdle should

folds, just as the style

demands.

and smooth.

Plain Shirring.

very small and even stitches. until it

or

it

It

by a pattern to fit, or cut on a true bias and stretched figure. The goods may be put on full, plain, or in even cut

is

Push the goods up on the thread

Be

the desired fullness.

will lose its beauty.

at an equal distance apart.

Put

careful not to get

in as

Put

all

many

it

too full

threads as you wish,

the threads in before shoving

the goods up, and keep the fullness the same on each thread.


WWMMV

Bias

Bands

MUline-r^

Fell

seam

Pol J


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

Tuck

Shirring.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Instead

in plain shirring, take

wide.

Make other.

of just running the thread in, as

up a tuck each time about

Shove up on the thread the same as as

many

21

1-8 of

an inch

in plain shirring.

tucks as desired, equally distant from each


LESSON

II

UTENSILS NEEDED FOR SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

For your work smooth

large

in

sewing and dressmaking you

enough

table, large

will

to cut a skirt on, a

need a

good sew-

The

ing-machine, an ironing-board and an ironing-cushion. latter

you cannot buy but

will

have

to

make

for yourself.

Cut

a piece of heavy bed ticking 28 inches long and 18 inches wide.

Make

into a

it

two long until

bag by folding together and stitching along the

Cut

sides.

old wool

and cotton goods into small pieces Soak them

you have about four pounds.

thoroughly wet and then squeeze as possible.

Fill

the bag,

making

and soak the whole pillow into shape (about

and

much

very

in water.

coat.

it is

By

of the

solid.

While

like a loaf of bread).

a piece of white cloth, and of the waist

it

in

it

water until

water out as

Sew up the end is wet, pound it

When

dry cover with

ready for use in pressing

seams

all

using this cushion you will not lose

the curve of the seams.

Aside from the utensils mentioned you should have good pins

and

needles, a tracing- wheel

buy

this at

and a pair

a book

and some

store), a yardstick,

of button-hole scissors.

You

tailors'

chalk (you can

a good pair

of shears

should also have a good

papier-mache bust form.

HOW

TO MAKE A PAPIER-MACHE BUST FORM FOR ONE'S

OWN

DRESSMAKING do your own dressmaking you should fit up a bust form so that it will represent your own form exactly. To If

do

you wish

this

to

buy a good bust form your own bust measure. 23

Draft


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

24

a tight waist to your measure and have some one

fit it

very tightly, tighter than you could possibly wear

down about sure

it is

quite close together

where

it

does not

put on very smoothly.

Fill

fit

your waists on.

out until the lining

on

skirt the

were

this

form as well as

form

it off

and on fill

and shape

of the

little

fit

you

will

is

this

wish to use

it

to

form you can hang your

your waists.

Have him make

bottom

hard to hook

you might get your waist Of course

have to be on a standard.

will

can easily make you one.

board a

left soft

By placing a petticoat on

too tight. skirts

If it

ma-

the back.

the form, with layers of cotton

It should be as hard as possible, as

on.

lining

down

Place this lining on your bust form, and by taking

fit

^Fit it

it.

Use a very heavy

perfect at every point.

in all places

you

the hips about 5 inches below the waist line and be

Sew hooks and eyes

terial.

to

of the form.

Any

for the

carpenter

a board just the size

Place four legs on this

longer than your skirt measure.

On

the bottom of

these legs fasten another board, large enough so that the standard will

not tip over easily.

Sew

four tape loops to the sides of your

bust form and put four brass-headed tacks in the edge of the top of the standard, leaving them out just enough to slip the

tape over.

This

will

you are working on

it

;

keep the form from slipping at the

off

same time you can remove

the standard whenever you wish.

You

will find

it

while

from

a bust form of

this kind the most convenient thing you ever possessed.


LESSON

III

PLANNING THE GOWN

You

have learned the

We

dressmaking.

will

and

stitches

now

utensils used in sewing

and

take up the actual work of making

the gown.

Dressmaking

is

divided into four parts:

i.

Planning the gown.

2.

Drafting the gown.

3.

Cutting the gown.

4.

Finishing the gown.

We

will take

up the

first:

PLANNING THE GOWN

The

thing to be thought of in planning the

first

figure of the person for tall

whom

the

gown

and slender or short and stout?

settling these points,

we must

lines to

make

broken

lines, lines

her look

For a

garment.

broken so that

We must

gown

made.

Is she light or

decide what sort of a

The

tall.

dark?

is

the

Is she

After

gown would

it will

back width should be

look narrower.

also think of the coloring of the patron.

be used.

blue, olive green

the

slender person should have

running around, cutting up the length of the

cannot wear the same

may

tall

short, stout person the

colors.

The complexion,

and eyes must be considered.

when

to be

For a small person the gown should have long straight

be best.

shades

is

gown

is

For a

fair

All persons

color of the hair

complexion, lighter

For the sallow complexion, brown, dark

and black.

We

also consider the time

The garment

to be worn.

be heavier than for summer.

must

for winter should

For those who cannot afford a 25


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

26

For those who can afford

variety, dark colors should be worn.

cream, tan or light grey

it,

is

The garment

good.

for winter

should be more severe in lines than the fluffy thin garment for

summer

wear.

We must Whether

also

for a

know

for

what occasion the

we must now

points,

best fashion books to find our styles.

will

styles, as

you

will find that,

much

stay in style

Sometimes you

will

It

if

tactful

and

resort to the

never best to use

is

you do

your gowns

not,

longer.

have a patron who

will

choose from your

You must

books just the thing she should not wear.

you wish

be worn.

to

is

wedding, party, street wear or house.

Having considered these extreme

dress

learn,

if

be a successful dressmaker, to influence her, in a

to

way, to choose some other style more suited to her form

coloring.

In planning the two-piece street gowns, no rule can be given, except that they are always planned on more severe lines than

any other garment except the long

coat.

be planned according to the prevailing

Both

of these

must

style.

A

party gown must be planned very differently from a street

suit.

For a very formal party gown, low neck and short sleeves

should be used, except for young will

girls.

be found the most suitable.

every year but a few standard ones

such as Chiffons, Velvet

may

Silks of delicate colors

These goods change nearly

may be found on

the market,

Nets, Crepe-de-Chine, Taffeta, Satin, etc.

always be used.

For young

girls, thin, soft

wool or

cotton goods are always good, such as Batiste, Crepe, Lawn, Taffeta and China silk

A

party gown

kind of a gown.

will

Velvet,

also

be used.

permit of more trimming than any other

Plaiting, shirring

good advantage on like

may

and tucking

light materials.

On

may

be used to

the heavy materials

Poplin or Brocade, heavy laces, appliques, jet

trimmings or embroideries should be used.

A gown for house wear, but for less formal wear gown, used

for afternoon receptions, dinners, etc.,

than the party

may

be

made


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

27

of heavier materials: Henriettas, Velvets, Broadcloth, Voile, All

Over Lace over

They

in color or dark.

Embroideries,

Silk,

are

They may be

etc.

made high-necked and with

light

longer

sleeves than the evening gown, usually reaching to the elbow, or half

way between

Or they may have long

the elbow and wrist.

Of course these garments must be planned according

sleeves.

to the prevailing style,

as the party gown.

which

trimming

will largely influence the

They should not be

as well as the material.

Sometimes a better

so heavily

trimmed

can be obtained

style

by just a little touch here and there than by placing a amount of trimming on the gown.

Now we

come

Every Day Gown:

to the

may

Almost any material

be used for

In planning this to be

this class of

gown, ex-

These are too dressy.

cept transparent materials.

it is

large

gown we must consider the time of year when in what climate. Whether in the north or

worn and

south.

For some years past the

skirts

very popular, while they are

away from of the It

this style

same

is

with separate waists have been

still

we

largely used,

and are going back again

are breaking

to the full dress

material.

not best to suggest to your patron large

When

very slender figure can wear these.

Only a

figures.

they are used they

must be matched and usually cut all oneway of the goods thus necessitating the

buying

of a large quantity of goods.

small checks or tiny figures are best.

your gown

if

you put

in

caline or

with

it.

is

The waist

A

very heavy.

good quality

usually of per-

If the

silk

goods

is

thin

enough

show the

to

the lining of the waist and skirt should

match

a dark shade of grey always looks well and If

is

makes the best lining. A drop skirt should match the gown or of some color which blends well

spun

be made to

goods

improve

a yoke of something light in color.

it

This seems to relieve the complexion. lined, unless the

Plain goods,

It will always

your patron wishes a

silk

lining

it

lining through,

in color.

it

will

If not,

not crock.

should be of a good


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

28

quality

Taffeta.

of

We

do not recommend

for

silk

waist

linings.

In deciding on the quantity of goods required for a gown, experience

Width

is

the best teacher.

of goods,

You must

think of three things.

whether single or double

fold,

and the

style of

the gown.

The measures

of the

of unusual size this

is

patron must be considered, but unless

not important.

to 9 yards of double width goods single width.

It usually takes

and from 14

The amount depends on how

full

from

5^

to 20 yards of

the gowns are

being made.

Do

not trust too

much

to

what the

clerk tells you.

They

are

apt to give small measure.

For the cotton lining ij^

5%

for the waist,

yds. for the drop skirt will be

with the style.

all

that

is

^ for the sleeves required.

and

This varies


LESSON IV THE CHART WITH WHICH THE DRAFTING

The

DONE

IS

chart consists of two pieces of cardboard, the edges of

form

which are cut

to

any garment.

The two

the different curves needed to draft

all

pieces are hinged together so that

swinging one about on the other, the longer curves

formed without using the long systems or charts used

methods

of drafting.

named according to its use and the ends of each lettered. The intermediate points in the curves which One corner of the chart is left a are also lettered.

Each curve curve are are used,

is

true square so that

When

point

G

is

it

may be used to

called for use

will cause the curve to fall

tions for the drafts

that the one line

One must form

To do pencil,

it

square one

any point

where

says, square

it

line

with another.

inside the brace

should.

one

line

When

which

in the direc-

with another,

must be exactly perpendicular with

it

means

the other.

a right angle with the other.

the drafting one should be supplied with a good hard

an

eraser,

more convenient

and a good straight yardstick. if

as the yard length

the yardstick is

rather

The paper used may be draft.

by

may be in many

A

is

sawed

unhandy

of

any

It will be

found

about 27 inches,

to use.

size large

good quality manilla paper

29

off at

is

enough to take the

the best.


TK


The Chivi Closed


LESSON V HOW The ing.

to

taking of measures

If the

make

different If

TO TAKE MEASURES

a draft that will

most important part

is

The

fit.

from the drafting

one line

the

is

of draft-

measures are not taken correctly one can never hope drafting of a garment

is

no

of a house, a bridge, or a machine.

inaccurate the entire draft will

come wrong.

cannot be too careful in taking your measures.

Above

all

You

things

do not hurry and do not get excited when taking measures. If the

person for

whom

the garment

is

being

made

does not

wish to give time for you to take her measures you should not try to

make

the garment for her.

Before you begin to take the measures, be sure that the patron is

standing squarely on both

The measures taken i.

are

:

feet.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Waist measure.

2.

Bust measure.

3.

Neck measure.

4.

Armhole measure.

5.

Under Arm measure.

6.

Upper Front measure.

7.

Back Length measure.

Back Width measure. 9. Front Length measure. 10. Arm Length measure. 11. Elbow measure. 8.

12.

Inside

arm measure from armhole

13.

Hand

measure.

14.

Front Length of

skirt.

32

to

bend

of arm.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

34 15.

Side Length of skirt.

16.

Back Length of Hip measure.

17.

Waist Measure.

skirt.

— Stand

in front of the patron.

Place the

tape-line about the smallest part of the waist.

Be

should be very tight.

This measure you have the smallest part of

sure

draw the measure

the waist, and

garment could be

as tight as a

worn. After taking this measure, place a cord or tape at least y% inch

wide about the smallest part of the waist and do not remove it

until

you are through taking measures.

have a piece of tape about

%

of

It is a

good plan

to

an inch wide to the end of which This can easily and quickly

has been fastened a small buckle.

be adjusted about the waist and stay in place nicely.

Bust Measure. line

— Stand back of the patron.

about the body under the arms and bring

center back.

Hold

it

it

together at the

firmly together with the right

step to the side of the patron.

the fingers and bring

Place the tape-

it

down

Allow the tape-line to

hand and

slip

through

in front over the highest part of

the bust.

Keep

the back.

Allow the patron to draw a long breath and

tape

slip

it

well

up under the arms and

as she does this, so that

it

will

straight across let

the

be easy about the

body.

Neck Measure.

— Have the patron remove her

try to take the neck measure over a collar unless

the dress, then take

it

tightly

enough

collar; it is

never

sewed to

to allow for the collar.

Place the tape-line about the neck where the collar should sew on, is

and measure about as

tight as the collar

a good plan to ask the patron

what

would be worn.

It

size linen collar she wears.

This gives an idea as to whether you are getting your measure correct or not.

Armhole Measure.

— Take

up high where the arm

this

measure about the shoulder

joins the body.

over the high part of the bone.

Be

sure to take

it

up

This measure should be taken


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING tight, tighter

be cut out

seams have

The armhole can

than the armhole can be worn.

later,

to

but

comes too large

if it

be taken in to make

gave the waist

be

style will

sure the patron's sleeve

is

in the draft

it right,

Be sure

lost.

35

and

all

the

the good lines which

to take it tight

and be

not bunched up under the tape-line,

under the arm. Before taking the next measure, place a piece of tape or cord

about the patron so that very sure that

it

close

Be must

up under the arms.

runs just straight around the body.

not be allowed to dip

Do

comes

it

Draw

down anywhere.

It

rather tight.

it

not pay any attention to the prominent part of the bust.

Just have

it

perfectly straight about the body, close

up under the

arms.

Under Arm Measure.

— Take

the arm, from the top of this

line,

this

down to the bottom of Have the patron raise her

straight

the line at the bottom of the waist.

arm

just

way

up.

enough

to take this measure.

Upper Front Measure.

measure directly under

She must not

Place the end of

the

raise it

tape-line

exactly on the prominent bone at the back of the neck.

Bring

the tape-line around the side of the neck close up to the neck and straight

down

in front to the top of the line

around the body under the arms. line

down

Be

which was placed

sure that

you bring the

exactly straight from the side of the neck.

It

must

not slant towards the back or front.

Back Length Measure.

— Place

the end of the tape-line on

the prominent bone at the back of the neck and measure straight

down

the back to the bottom of the line about the smallest part

of the waist.

must not

Be

sure to take this measure straight down.

slant to right or left.

It

Stand directly back of the patron

to take this measure.

Back Width Measure. back about the middle ure wide enough.

patron has on.

— This

measure

of the armholes.

Be

is

sure to get the meas-

Do not pay any attention Measure out

to

taken across the

to the

garment the

where the arms join the body.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

36

Both arms should be measure

is

down

straight

at the sides,

— Place

Front Length Measure.

the end of

just where the neck should finish in front

down

Do

the tape-line

and measure straight

not draw this measure

you want the waist

the front of the

to set

when

— Place

Arm Length Measure.

arm where

the

arm

Elbow Measure.

— Take

arm out this

it

finished.

body about on a

joins the

straight

When

to the creases about the wrist joint.

have the patron stretch the

Make

tight.

the end of the tape-line at

Measure

straight line with the thumb.

down

the

arm

taking this measure

at right angles to the body.

measure around the arm at the

elbow with the arm bent at right angle. is

this

the front to the bottom of the line about the smallest

part of the waist. just as

when

taken.

Be

sure the tape-line

over the point of the elbow. Inside

this

Arm Measure from Armhole

to

Bend

of

Arm.

— Take

measure from the same point you did the arm length meas-

down to the inside of the elbow. Have the patron bend her arm so that you can locate the exact stopping-place. Hand Measure. This measure is taken about the hand with the fingers held straight out and the thumb close against the hand. Take this measure just snug, not tight. Front Length of Skirt. Take this measure from the lower

ure

edge of the tape about the waist line at the exact middle of the front of the skirt, straight floor.

When you

wish from

down

the front of the skirt to the

cut your pattern you can take

this length.

It

is

off

what you

best to take this measure to the

floor, for it is difficult to tell just

where to stop

in taking it

any

other way. Side Length of Skirt.

— Take

this

measure from the lower edge

way between the middle front, straight down the side

of the tape about the waist line, half of the

back and the middle

of the

of the skirt to the floor.

Back Length

of

Skirt.

— Take

this

measure from a point

at the middle of the back, at the lower edge of the tape about


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

38

the waist

straight

line,

down

the middle of the back to the

floor.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Take

Take Hip Measure. below the waist hips.

If

line, straight

this

the skirts are being

should be taken snug.

measure about

5 or 6 inches

around the prominent part

worn very

tight this

If the skirts are full

of the

measure

take the measure

just easy. If

will

you are

careful in taking these measures, your

need very

little fitting,

have perfect forms. inches, so it correctly.

is

bound

perhaps not any.

The method to come right

Few of us, however,

of drafting if

garments

is

worked out in

the measures are taken


LESSON VI DRAFTING THE SHIRT-WAIST

Measures used

i.

2.

for draft given

:

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Waist measure Neck measure

25

inches

13^

inches

Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Upper Front measure Front Length measure Under Arm measure

15

inches

39

inches

13^ 10^

inches

15

7^

inches inches

inches

Draw line A-B length of Back Length measure. From A measure on line A-B Under Arm measure.

Mark

this point C. 3.

4.

At C square a line with line A-B. From C measure on this line

% of Bust measure.

this point 5.

Mark

D.

From C on

line

E

At

7.

From E on

of

Back Width measure.

square line with line C-D. this line

measure

1-3

of

Armhole measure.

this point F.

8.

Measure

9.

At

10.

C-D measure Yi

this point E.

6.

Mark

Mark

Y inch above point B. 2

Mark

this point G.

G square a line with line G-A. From G on this line measure ij^ inches. Mark

this point

H.

n. Place point

on the chart at point

B and draw

curve

through H. 12. With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve through and F.

39

H


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

40 13.

point 14.

Mark

Extend

F Y2

curve beyond point

this

Mark

inch.

this

I.

From E measure on

line

C-D 34

Armhole measure.

of

this point J.

Mark

this point

2^ inches. Mark

this point

15.

Find a point half way between J and E.

16.

At point J square a

line

17.

From J on

measure

18.

Place point

K. this line

with

line

D-C.

L.

G

on the chart at point

I

and draw curve

through K. 19.

L and draw

on the chart at point

Place point

curve

through K.

1% inches. Mark

E-F up

20.

Extend

21.

At point

22.

From

23.

Place point

24.

Measure curve I-H.

25.

From

26.

Square a

27.

Measure from

line

this point

M.

M square a with line E-M. M on this line measure inches. Mark this point line

2

N.

F on

the chart at

L and draw

curve through

N.

N measure the length of line I-H.

Mark

this point

O.

with

line

D-C

so that

it will

pass through point

O. line

D-C on

this line,

less

what

is

used in the Back Neck.

From

point

P

measure down 34

measure

the

Upper Front

Mark

this point

P. 28.

of

neck measure.

Mark

this point Q. 29.

From Q measure up Y2

30.

At

31.

On

add 34 32.

P.

R

this line

inch.

inch.

Mark

this point

R.

square a line with line Q-R.

from

Mark

R

measure

1-6 of

Neck measure, and

this point S.

Place point J on the chart at S and draw curve through


S'HIRT

WAIST DRAFT.

WV V


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

42

From

33.

Mark 34.

Arm

E

point

this point

on

line

C-D measure

1

inch to the

At T square a line with line C-D and draw length

Mark

measure.

left.

T.

this point

U measure

35.

From

36.

Place point

B

1

of

Under

U.

Mark

inch to the right.

on the chart at point

T

this

point V.

and draw curve

through V.

Mark

37.

Measure

38.

Place point

B

W. Draw From

from S through D.

1

inch to

left of

U.

this point

on the chart at point

T

W.

and draw curve

through 39.

40.

a

line

S measure Front Length measure.

point X.

In cutting pattern allow

all

seams.

Mark

this


LESSON

VII

DRAFTING THE SHIRT-WAIST SLEEVE

Measures used Arm Length Arm Length

for draft given

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

measure to

20

Elbow

Elbow measure

inches

2%

inches

8

inches

15

inches

1

Hand measure Armhole measure

inches

<p>ÂŁ

Draw line A-B Arm Length measure. 2. From A on line A-B measure Arm Length Mark this point C 3. At B square a line with line A-B. 4. At C square a line with line A-B. i.

A

5.

At

6.

From B measure on

7.

From C measure on

8.

Extend

to

Elbow.

square a line with line A-B. inch.

Mark

this point

% inch.

Mark

this point

drawn

line

1

D. line

drawn

E. line

drawn

at A,

i

inch to the

Mark

left.

this

point F.

Place point

9.

D

on the chart at F and draw curve through

E.

E

and

D

10.

Connect points

11.

From

D

measure

12.

From

G

measure to the right

1

with a straight

inch to the right.

line.

Mark

this point

G.

hand measure. 13.

The

From

Mark

this point

H measure to

distance between

D

the right

and

1

G and H 43

2

inches

more than the

H. inch.

and

Mark

this point I.

I is for gathers.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

44 14.

From E on

drawn measure Yi mcn

line

to the right.

Mark

this point J. 15.

From J measure

16.

From

the

Elbow measure.

Mark

this point

Mark

this point

K.

K

to the right

measure

}/%

inch.

L. 17.

Connect points

18.

From

Mark 19.

A

this point

From

L and

measure on

I

by

straight line.

drawn the Armhole measure.

line

M.

M measure to the right

Mark

2 inches.

this point

N.

A

2Y2 inches. Mark this point 0. 21. Square a line with line A-B at point 0.

20.

Extend

22.

From A on

line

A-B above line

A-N measure i%

Mark

inches.

this

point P. 23.

From

M measure 3

inches to the

Mark

left.

this point

q. 24.

where 25.

where 26.

At P square a

line

with

line

this line touches the line

At

Q

square a line with line

this line touches the line

A-N and mark

the point

R

from point 0.

A-N and mark

the point S

from O.

Place point

D

on the chart at

Place point

G

on the chart at point

L and draw

curve through

N. 27.

R

and draw curve

through point F. 28.

F on the chart at point S and draw a curve M. Continue the curve to point N. Find the point half way between P and Q. Mark this

Place point

through point 29.

point T. 30.

from

of

T

Using

R

as a center

and T-R

draw an arc

to S.

31.

Find a point half way between

32.

From

this point

an inch long. 33.

as a radius

Connect

Mark

U

G and H.

square a line with line B-I and draw this point

with I and

D

%

U. using curve

C-D on

the chart.


5"

fiirt-

Waist Sleeve.

s_

1?

/ t-y P

\

5'

T

I

a

AV

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;7/v


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

46 34.

The

cuff is drafted straight.

hand measure and curved

if

Two

3 inches wide.

desired.

In cutting pattern allow

all

seams.

inches longer than the

The lower

corner

may

be


LESSON

VIII

DRAFTING THE BLOUSE -WAIST

The

made

only changes

blouse-waist

are â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

in the shirt-waist to

i.

Change the Under Arm seam from

2.

Draw both

the

front, a straight slant 3.

Under Arm seam from

The one through

and the one through

W

V

is

is

the

the

5.

Add

7.

K.

for the

back and the

Under Arm seam

Under Arm

Slant the middle back out

ish

to

the

K through V and W.

4.

6.

T

make

for the front

of the back.

i]4, inches.

4 inches to the bottom of the waist for blouse.

Hem the bottom with a narrow hem and run an elastic in it. Cut away the front to a V shaped opening, line b, and fin-

neck with a large

sailor collar.

47


LESSON IX HOW

TO CUT THE SAILOR COLLAR, OR ANY LARGE COLLAR

Many time, so

people draft the sailor collar but

we

one which

will

will

much

teach you a

not

fail to fit

it

takes considerable

quicker and simpler

the garment for which

After the draft of the waist has been

it is

way and

intended.

made and the pattern Be sure to pin

cut from paper, pin the shoulder seam together.

Spread the pattern out

right

on the

table

and place the center back on a straight edge

and pin

line of

each part.

collar is desired

the waist.

Draw

this line

the back.

Now

decide

down drawn

on the

Measure from the neck down the back the

in place.

depth the

flat

of the paper,

the front and

and square a

is

with the back

out as wide as the collar

how

draw a

to the point in front.

edge of the collar

line

you wish the

far line

to

best

way

be across

collar to extend

from the end of the

The

to cut the

is

line of

line just

to shape the outer

neck portion and then pin the

pattern to the bust form and cut the edge any shape desired.

You can see in this way just how the collar will look when ished. Any lay down collar may be cut in this way.

49

fin-


/

How

To Cut

The S&ilor Collar

\ \

\

Lar{â&#x201A;¬ Colli v.

/

/

<


LESSON X HOW To make

the

TO DRAFT THE KIMONO WAIST

kimono

Trace

waist.

Cut

waist on another piece of paper.

off

the draft of the shirt-

out, allowing

seams every-

Pin the back pattern to the front at the shoulder seam

where.

and spread out

flat

on the

place the pattern on of the paper.

This

the neck out so that

it will

back

lines

will

and

on a straight edge

line

Draw

bias.

divide the

The back part

Draw two

large sheet of paper

having the front

it

will bring the

nearly equal parts. the front.

Take a

table.

a line from

Armhole into two very be a

beginning about

\

little

smaller than

x

/i inches below the

Armhole on the under arm seam almost parallel to the line just drawn. They should come together very slightly towards

Draw

the ends.

these lines as long as

and connect them with a of the waist.

It

more than elbow are

much

is

length, as

it is difficult

be

make

the sleeves

to raise the

arm

much

if

they

longer.

with seams on the right it

sleeve to

This forms the sleeve

straight line.

never best to try to

In basting up the kimono waist,

After

you wish the

has been thoroughly

narrow seam so that These waists

it will

may

lining

should always be basted

fitted,

it is

tried

fitted.

French seam with a very

be as fancy as one wishes, having tucks

For a dress waist they are often

having a sewed in sleeve.

freedom in raising the arm, and the sleeve out under the arm.

on and

turn well.

or shirring over the shoulder.

made with a

it

side until after

is

This gives more

not so liable to tear

For the Kimono Shirt-Waist the sleeve

should be quite loose.

51


/

2

f

1

1

1

WcLlSt /

,( / *-/

o

I

1

/

1)

j

1 1

li i 1T>

I

i 1

""


LESSON XI THE MAKING AND FINISHING OF THE SHIRT-WAIST

You

have learned

Waist Sleeve.

We

to draft the Shirt-Waist

will

now

and the

Shirt-

take up the making and finishing

of the shirt-waist.

After the draft has been made, trace

off

each part of the waist

Cut out, allowing seams everywhere.

on another piece of paper.

This gives you an exact pattern to use in cutting out the waist. Before using cotton goods

warm water is

Put

all plaits

enough

to cut

Place in

If the

press.

goods

salt in the water.

and tucks

If there is

pattern.

when nearly dry

over night and

colored put some

should be shrunk.

it

in the goods before laying

on the

no up or down to the goods, a piece long

may

both fronts

be cut

off

and the two tucked

at once. All trimming should be put on after the waist

before If

it is

cut out but

basted up.

the waist

the front.

is

is

to be tailor

To make

this,

made,

it will

have a box

plait

cut a straight strip from the edge of the

goods wide enough to allow for turning under. be just the length of one side of the front.

This piece should

Baste the piece on

the edge of the cloth from which the right side front cut,

and

stitch J^ inch

must be planned If

you only want

cut

off for fronts

Measure on each

to

from both edges.

come

to tuck

(See

111.)

at the right distance

is

to be

Your tucks

from

this plait.

yoke deep, fold the goods you have

together in the center crosswise. part,

down

from the fold down, just

(See

111.)

how deep you

wish the yoke to come and tuck between the marks. If

you wish the tucks

to

grow shorter towards the armholes, 53


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

54

mark

To put

the goods slanting.

in the tucks, fold the cloth

lengthwise just where you want the tucks to come. the width

you want the tucks and put

When you

fold the goods together to cut the fronts, be

sure that the tucks for each piece

Cut from the goods, marking Baste up and try on.

draw a

circle.

all

lie

exactly on top of each other.

seams with the tracing wheel.

Baste on the collar band, after stitching

To

cut the collar band

Take a

radius of 10 inches.

the seams of the waist. line to

in with a running stitch

Press the tucks before you try to cut the

or on the machine. waist.

of the paper for the center of the circle

Measure

inch apart.

circles i

Measure

use your tape-

:

Use the corner

and draw parts

of

two

enough length, from the edge

off

of the paper on the lower circle, for

^ the neck measure.

Cut

out the pattern and allow seams on both sides when you cut

from the

To

finish the

Make

bottom

of the shirt-waist sleeve,

a cuff of three thicknesses of goods,

interlining of cotton,

if

wool,

3^

a

W-V about 4 inches.

strip of

edges (see

Lay

if

if

tailor

made.

cotton, or with

an

inches wide and ioj^ inches

Slash the sleeves up on

long, straight of the goods lengthwise. line

it

cloth.

Baste on the under edge of this opening

goods about ij^ inches wide, having turned in the 111. 1)

so that

it

projects from the opening.

the sleeve on the table right side up, and place over this

piece just sewed on a piece about

2^

inches wide which has

been folded in the middle lengthwise and both edges turned in.

Place the lengthwise fold of this piece so that

The upper turned

it

just covers

come on the right side of the sleeve and the under edge on the wrong side of the sleeve just opposite the other. Baste into place and the under seam.

It looks best to finish the

stitch.

comes on the right

seam

upper end of

(See

Ills.

Gather the bottom, leaving

plain.

this piece,

side of the sleeve, to a point.

the point on the machine. sleeve.

in edge of the piece will

1

i^

and

2.)

which

Stitch about

Stitch

up the

inches each side of the

Baste the pieces of the cuff together wrong side

out, leaving one long side open.

Turn and baste the edge on


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

55

the right side, having the edge very smooth and even. the open side to the

of the cuff

bottom

about

Baste

having the shortest part come on the

of the sleeve,

under side of the

Notch

inch from the center.

1

sleeve.

In basting to the sleeve have the right side of the cuff against

Only baste two

the right side of the sleeve. of

which the

cuff

is

lining

made, at the

Turn

or lining, loose.

and baste

in place.

Stitch

right side very near the edge.

about

2

inches from the

basting, leaving the third,

all

turn in the edge of the

four sides of the cuff on the

Gather the top of the sleeve from

seam on the upper

from the seam on the under after having tried

first

down and

the cuff

Sew

side.

on the waist

of the three pieces

in

and 5}^ inches

side,

and bind the armhole,

Work

for the last time.

a button-

hole in each end of the neck band, one in the center of the

and one at each end the front

if

wishes.

Some

desired.

left loose so

waist

is

of the cuffs.

back

They may also be worked down

Finish the bottom of the waist as the patron

like the fullness stitched in, while others

that they can place

it

want

it

where they wish when the

worn.

The fancy shirt-waist should fasten in the back instead of the front. The same draft is used. It may be tucked yoke deep across the front and down the back, tucked in clusters with insertion of lace or embroidery

between or any sort

of

ornaments

placed on the front.

In making collars and yokes of lace insertion, cut a correct pattern from white paper. stitch together

and

collar just the desired shape.

must be placed

goods before

in the

For the fancy waist the sleeves wishes.

this

Tear the paper away and you

on the machine.

have your yoke and All tucks

Baste the rows of lace on

They may be

may

be

it is

made

cut.

as fancy as one

short or long as the style demands.

the short sleeve, the draft given

may

For

be used by laying a plait

lengthwise in the pattern thus taking out the gathers, leaving

only a few at the armhole.

from

this

A Leg

same draft by laying a

O'Mutton

sleeve

may be made

plait lengthwise beginning at


CotUvr B<xy\A


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING the bottom and letting shirt-waist

draft

is

it

out gradually towards the top.

used

to

Combined with the seven gored suit.

make skirt it

the

shirt-waist

makes a

57

The dress.

fine shirt-waist


LESSON XII DRAFTING THE TIGHT WAIST WITH BACK FORMS

Measures used

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

for draft given

Waist measure

25

Neck measure

i3>ÂŁ inches

Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure

i. 2.

inches

15

inches

39

inches

13K

inches

7^4 Inches

Draw line A-B length of back. From A measure the Under Arm

15^

inches

io|<4

inches

16

inches

measure.

Mark

this

point C. 3.

Measure up from B J^

D-E

4.

Square

5.

D

6.

Place point

to

line

E

is i]/2

with

Mark this point D. D-C at point D.

inch.

line

inches.

on the chart at point

B and draw

curve

through point E. 7.

At C square a

8.

From C on

line

with

this line

line

A-B.

measure Y2 of Bust measure.

Mark

this point F. 9.

From C on

line

C-F measure J^

of

Back width. Mark

this

point G. 10.

At

G

square a line with

line

C-F.

From point G measure on this line 1-3 Mark this point H. 12. Place I half way between G and H.

11.

ure.

59

of

Armhole meas-


.

PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

60 13.

With curve D-C on

the chart,

draw curve through

E

and H. 14.

point

Extend

G-H above

line

At J square a

16.

From J on

17.

18.

long. 19.

Mark

inches.

this

J.

15.

Mark

H 1%

point

G

Measure from this point

Square a

Mark

with

line

line G-J.

measure

this line

on

line

Mark

inches.

2

C-F J4

this point

K.

Armhole measure.

of

L.

L

line at

with

C-F and draw 2Y2 inches

line

M. half way between L and

this point

Find a point

Mark

G.

this

point N. 20. 21

Extend curve E-H Y2 inch beyond H. Place point G on the chart at the end of

the chart to the 22.

23.

O

Place point

through

left,

left,

M

on the chart at point

Place point

F on

Measure the

distance from 25.

M and draw a curve

and N. the chart at point

and draw curve through points

24.

this curve, holding

and draw a curve through point N.

K

Square a

length of curve

full

on line

K-O.

line

with

line

Mark C-F

M,

holding chart to the

M and K. E-H and mark

the same

this point 0.

so that

it

will

run through

point O. 26.

Measure up on

Upper Front measure

Mark

this line

less

what

from

is

line

C-F the length

of

used in the back of the neck.

this point P.

27.

With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve through P and

28.

From P measure down

K.

Y of Neck measure.

Mark

this

point Q.

Q

29.

Square a

30.

Measure from Q,

inch. 31.

P.

Mark

line at

this point

with

line

P-Q.

1-6 of the

Neck measure and add \i

R.

Place point J on the chart at

R and draw a curve through


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 32.

Measure on

R-F

line

61

Mark

the Front Length measure.

this point S.

with

33.

Square a

34.

Measure down on

Mark

line

line

C-F

this

at point

N.

Under Arm measure.

line

the

A-T

% of an inch.

this point T.

a line from

T

to A.

A

on

line

35.

Draw

36.

Measure from

Mark

this

Mark

this

point U. 37. 38.

point 39.

Draw

line

B-U.

Find a point half way between

T

and U.

W. From

W measure

point

Mark

to the right 2}^ inches.

this point V. 40.

I

Place point

F on

the chart at a point

and draw with curve F-C on the 41.

Place point

D

% of an inch below through V.

chart, a curve

on the chart at the point where curve I-V

C-F and draw curve through point W. Measure towards the right from T on line A-T

crosses line 42.

Mark 43.

N

this point

1

inch.

X.

With curve D-C on

the chart

draw a curve through points

and X. 44.

From

this point

45.

point

Place point

through points 46.

T measure

towards the

left

i}4 inches.

Mark

Y.

B on

N and Y,

Place point

C on

N

the chart at point

and draw curve

holding the chart to the the chart at S and

left.

draw curve through

Y. 47.

From

point S measure towards the right

1

inch.

Mark

this point Z.

48.

Place point

through 49.

point 50.

B on

the chart at point

F and draw

curve

Z.

From Z towards

the right measure

1%

inches.

Mark

this

a.

To find out how much

to take out in the darts,

the tape-line Yi of Waist measure.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Find on

Place this point at U.

Now


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

62

U

measure from which

falls

Mark

is

always

52. 53.

c

d and 54.

is

55. tall

to

b

made

is

to e is

half

larger than the

From

we

leave

The

In this case 3 inches.

width of back dart.

In this case

way between a and b and

half

f is

2

inches.

way between

c through a point

on the shoulder

line 1 inch

from

line.

Measure up on

(8 ins. is

this line,

from point

8 inches for a

c,

Mark

this point g.

used in this draft.)

From

point g measure towards the right 3 inches exactly

Mark

parallel with line C-F. 57.

i

back one.

width of front dart.

person and 6 inches for a short person.

56.

to-

inch.

in darts, less the space

which should be about

d),

measure

is left

distance from this point

e.

draw a

P,

is

From a From d

The

Place the point

to a.

and with what

what must be taken out

front dart

and Z

this point.

between the darts (b to

51.

X

to

Y

at a, at point

wards point Z. to a

W

to V,

With curve C-D on

this point h.

draw curves

the chart,

a-g, b-g, h-d,

e-h.

58.

Measure down from points U, T,

59.

Connect points

U

and

f,

c,

and

Z, 5 inches.

i.

From a point half way between V and W, square a line with line A-T and draw 5 inches long. Mark this point j. 61. Connect point j with V and j with W, with straight lines. 62. Extend line N-T down 5 inches. Mark this point k. 60.

63.

Connect point k with X.

64.

Measure

65.

Place point

through 66.

to the right of k,

F on

the

inch,

1

chart

at

Y

this point

1.

and draw curve

1.

Make

the distance from

than from e to d and a to

m

to

n and o

67.

Connect a and e with a straight

Draw

69.

Connect

line

Z-q straight down

m and

e,

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; In drafting

to

p about

%

less

b.

68.

Note

mark

n and

any

d,

line.

5 inches.

o and b, p and

of the waists

a.

below the waist

line,


Ti$li Waist D-ri}h

Wii

h

Back P

V//7n

F^-r

>rx.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

64 it will

be found necessary to change the measures for different

persons.

Some who have very

large hips, while hips.

some with

small waist measure will have

large waist

measure

will

have small

Use the hip measure and change each measure a

little

so

that the draft 5 inches below the waist line will be the exact hip measure.

In cutting out the Armhole of any waist, remember that you took the measure tighter than cut out more than the draft.

it

could be worn, so

it

must be

See dotted line on draft.

In cutting the pattern from the draft allow seams everywhere.


.

LESSON

XIII

DRAFTING THE WAIST WITHOUT BACK FORMS

Measures

used in draft given

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Waist measure Neck measure Armhole measure

25

15

inches

Bust measure

39

inches

Back Width measure Under Arm measure

13^

inches

72< inches i$}4 inches

Front Length measure

Upper Front measure Back Length measure

2.

Draw line A-B From B to D is

3.

At

4.

On

i.

inches

i$}4 inches

10^

inches

16

inches

length of back.

J^ inch. square a line with line A-B.

D

measure from point

this line

D

ij^ inches.

Mark

this

point E. 5.

on the chart at point

Place point

B and draw

curve

through E. 6.

At point C square a

7.

On

Mark 8.

measure from point

this line

From

C

Yi the Bust measure.

point

Mark

On

C on line C-F measure J^ of back width. Mark

G.

At point

10.

11

with A-B.

this point F.

this point 9.

line

G

square a line with line C-F.

this line

this point

measure from G,

1-3 of

Armhole measure.

H.

Place point

D

on the chart at

E

H and extend curve Y2 inch beyond H. 6s

and draw curve through


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

66

Measure on

12.

3-4 inches.

Mark

C-F measure 34 Armhole measure.

Mark

G-H, from point H,

line

i

this point I.

From G on

13.

line

this point J.

Find a point half way between J and G.

14.

Mark

this

point L.

At point J square a line with line C-F. Measure on this line from J, 2^ inches.

15. 16.

Mark

this

point

M.

G

Place point

17.

on the chart at the end

of curve

E-H and

draw a curve through point L. 18.

Place point

O on the chart at M and draw a curve through

19.

Place point

F on

the chart at

20.

Extend

I-K

to the left of

L.

M and draw a curve through

K.

On

21.

from

E

line

this line

measure from

extended through H.

22.

Square a

23.

Measure on

with

line

line

K.

K the same length as the curve

Mark C-F

this point

so that

N.

it will

pass through

N.

24.

this line from line C-F the Upper Front Back Neck measure. Mark this point O. With curve D-C draw a curve through K and O.

25.

From O measure down 34

measure,

less

the

Neck measure.

the

Mark

this

point P. 26.

At P square a

27.

On

this line

and add 34

inch.

line

with line O-P.

measure from P,

Mark

30.

Mark 31. S.

Draw a On this this

Neck measure

this point Q.

Place point J on the chart at point O. 28.

29.

1-6 of the

straight line from

Q

Q

and draw curve through

through F.

measure from Q, the Front Length measure. point R. line

Find a point half way between J and L.

Mark

this point


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 32.

33.

At point S, square a line with Measure on this line from

measure.

Mark

C-F the Under Arm

line

this point T.

T

and

A

with a straight

Connect

35.

From

36.

Connect

37.

Find a point half way between

measure on

U

line.

this line 1 inch.

Mark

this point 17.

and B.

inch to the right of this point. 38.

C-F.

line

34.

A

67

C on

Place point

Mark

U

and

T

and measure

J^.

this point V.

V

the chart at

and with curve C-F on

the chart, draw a curve through point G. 39.

From V measure

1

inch to the

Mark

left.

this point

W. 40.

G and draw a curve through

Place point

B on

Measure

inch to the right of T.

the chart at

W. 41.

1

Mark

this point

44.

With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve from X Measure ij^ inches to the left of T. Place point C on the chart at X, and draw curve

45.

Measure from

42. 43.

much

of the

46.

From

47.

Place point

U to V and from W to X.

to

X. S..

to S-

This shows

how

Waist measure has been used in the back.

R

measure to the right

}/&

Mark

inch.

this

point

Z.

line

A

on the chart at Z and draw curve touching

F-R.

48.

From

point

Y

measure towards point Z what

the Waist measure after taking out what

Mark 49.

Measure the distance from

2

51.

used in the back.

We

will

make

this point to Z.

in darts to bring the

proper Waist measure, in this case

one

This gives

garment

in to the

4% inches.

the Front Dart

2%

inches and the back

R

and draw curve C-F

inches.

Place point

C on

the chart at

through Y. 52.

of

this point.

what must be taken out

50.

is

is left

From Z measure

2

inches.

Mark

this point a.


.

.

PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

68

53.

2%

From a measure

Mark

inches (Front Dart).

this

point b. 54. 55.

56. 57. line

From b, measure 1 inch. Mark this point c. From c measure 2 inches (Back Dart). Mark this point d. Find a point half way between a and b. Mark this point e. From a point 1 inch to the right of O draw a straight

through

58.

and 6

e.

From

measure up on

e

for a short person

this line 8 inches for a tall

person

Mark

(we use 8 inches in this draft).

this point f 59. With curve D-C on the chart draw a curve from and from f to b.

60.

Find a point half way between

61.

Measure from

c

and

Mark

d.

f

to

a

this point

g-

and

3 inches to the right

f,

parallel to

Mark this point h. 62. Draw a straight line connecting h and g. 63. With curve D-C on the chart connect h and d and h and c. 64. To form the bottom of the waist. Measure down 5 inches from A. Mark this point Connect

line

C-F.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

i.

U

and

i

65.

Find a point half way between

with a straight

line.

V

and W.

At

this

point

square a line with line A-T. 66. j.

Measure down on

Connect 67.

and V, and

j

Extend

line

Connect k and

X

and

S-T down

Measure

69.

Place point

F on

70.

Extend

h-g

1

j

W with straight 5

with a straight

68.

this point k.

line.

Mark

the chart at Y, and

down

this point

lines.

Mark

inches.

inch to the right of k.

line

Mark

this line 5 inches.

5 inches.

Mark

this point

1.

draw curve

this point

to

1.

m.

Using Y2 the distance from c to d as a measure and placing the middle of this distance at m, mark points either side of 71

mâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;o 72.

and

n.

Connect n with d and o with

line e-f

down

5 inches.

Mark

c

by

straight lines.

this point p.

Extend


Ti$M Waist

Wit A out

ri

#ac?(

}

t

Form


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

7o 73.

mark

With p points

r

as a center, using Y% the distance from a to b,

and

q.

75.

Connect r and a, and q and b with straight Extend curve Z straight down 5 inches.

76.

Connect a and d with a straight

74.

lines.

line.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Note For a person with a very large waist measure it is best to make the distance from b to c a little more, say ij^ inches, or even

2 inches.

This waist

seam

is

is

the best one to use for linings as the back form

apt to show especially where the goods

is

thin.


LESSON XIV DRAFTING THE WAIST WITH FRENCH FORMS

Measures used

in this draft

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Waist measure

25

inches

Neck measure

isH

inches

Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure .Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure

i.

Draw

2.

Measure from

line

A-B

'.

inches inches

13K

inches

7^

inches

15^

inches

io>^ inches 16

:

the length of

A

15

39

the

inches

Back measure.

Under Arm measure.

Mark

this

point C.

D

3.

B

4.

At

5.

Measure from

D

6.

Place point

on the chart at

7.

At C square a

line

F is 3^2 C From C on

Bust measure.

to

D

J^ inch. square a line with A-D. is

on

this line

ij^ inches.

Mark

this

point

E.

B and draw

curve through

E.

to

8. 9.

Mark 10.

11.

12.

H.

with

line

A-B.

C-F measure Y2

line

of

Back Width measure.

this point G.

At G square a line with line C-F. Measure on this line from point G,

Mark

ure.

of

this point

Place point

D

1-3 of

Armhole meas-

H.

on the chart at

E and draw

Extend curve Y2 inch beyond H. 71

curve through


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

72 13.

Extend

14.

At

15.

On

G-H above

line

H 1%

inches.

Mark

this

2 inches.

Mark

this point

point

I.

16.

Mark

I square a line with line G-I.

measure from

this line

From

G on line

I,

C-F measure 34

Find a point half way between

18.

At

19.

20.

Measure on

this line,

2^

inches from K.

Mark

this

M. Measure

length of curve

full

measure from J on 21.

Armhole measure.

K and G. K square a line with line C-F.

17.

point

of the

K.

this point

line I- J, extended.

G

Place point

E-H and mark the same Mark this point N.

on the chart at point

H

and draw curve

through L. 22.

on the chart at

Place point

M

and draw a curve

through L. 23. J.

Place point

Place point

F on

D

the chart at

M and draw curve through

on the chart at

and draw curve through

C-F

so that it will pass through

j-

24.

Square a

with

line

line

point N. 25.

Measure on

measure,

less

this line

what

is

from

line

C-F the Upper Front

used in the Back Neck.

Mark

this point

O. 26.

From

measure on

this line

34 the Neck measure.

Mark

this point P. 27.

At P square a

28.

Measure on

J4 inch. 29.

30. 31.

Mark 32.

Mark

line

with

this line

line

from

P

O-P. 1-6 of

Neck measure.

Add

this point Q.

Place point J on the chart at Q and draw curve through 0. From Q draw line through F.

From Q on this point

this line

measure the Front Length measure.

R.

At L square a

line

with line C-F.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 33.

Mark

Measure on

this line

L

from

the

73

Under Arm measure.

this point S.

34.

Connect S and

35.

From

A

on

A

with a straight

this line

measure

line.

% oi an mcn

Mark

-

this

point T.

T

B

and

36.

Connect

37.

Measure on the shoulder curve

Mark 38.

this point

U.

left of this point.

From

line.

inches from the Armhole.

2

T

Find a point half way between

inch to the 39.

with a straight

V measure

Mark

and S and measure

J/ÂŁ

this point V.

Mark

i}ÂŁ inches to the right.

this

point

D

touch

W.

U

Connect

41.

Place point

line

U-W. Draw

42.

Measure

W with a straight

and

40.

C on

V

the chart at

line.

and

let

point

curve.

to the right of S,

D

43. Place point

Mark

inch.

1

on the chart at

L

this point

X.

and draw curve through

X. 44.

Measure

45.

Place point

46.

Measure from

Mark

to the left of S ij^ inches.

A

on the chart at

Y

this point

Y.

and draw curve through

L.

how much 47.

T

of the waist

Measure from

to

W

and from

V

to

measure has been used

Y

towards

R

what

X.

This shows

in the back.

is

left of

measure, after taking out what was used in the back.

the waist

Mark

this

point. 48.

Measure the distance from

gives the

amount

R.

This

to be taken out in the dart to bring the waist

into the correct waist measure. 49.

this point to point

Place point

C on

In this case

the chart at

R

it is

4^ inches.

and draw curve through

Y, using curve C-F on the chart. 50.

Measure from J on curve J-0

51.

Measure from

52.

Connect a and Z with a straight

2

inches.

Mark

this

Z.

R 2^

inches.

Mark

this point a.

line.

point


Tiflt

Wnst wii^

Fve Nch

f.i

'e

Forms.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING Measure from a on

53.

line a-Z 8 inches for

Mark

6 inches for a short person.

a

tall

75

person and

point aa.

this

54.

With curve D-C on

55.

Measure

56.

Place point

57.

Find a point half way between a and

58.

Connect a and b with a straight

59.

At

the chart connect a with aa.

to right of a

4^ inches

(dart).

Mark

this point

b.

B on

the chart at aa

and draw curve through

b. b.

Mark

this point

c.

c square a line

Mark

inches.

with

line.

line a-b,

and measure from

c,

5

this point d.

x Find /i the distance from a to b and with d as a center, mark points e and f.

60.

and b with a straight

61.

Connect

62.

Connect a and

63.

Extend

64.

Connect b and

65.

Extend

66.

Connect h and

67.

point 68.

e

line

line

f

with a straight

R

Q-R below

Y

line.

5 inches.

with a straight

A-B below

T

line.

A

line.

Mark

5 inches.

with a straight

this point h.

line.

Find a point half way between

V

and W.

Mark

this

g.

Square a

g, 5 inches.

line at g,

Mark

with

this point

69.

Connect

W and

70.

Extend

line

71.

Measure

72.

Place point

73.

Connect

line

with a straight

i

L-S below S

to the right of

F

at

X and

A-S and measure down from

i.

j

line, also

5 inches. j

1

inch.

connect

Y and draw curve through k. with a straight

In cutting pattern allow

all

seams.

V

and

Mark this point j. Mark this point k.

line.

i.


LESSON XV HOW

We

TO CUT, FIT AND MAKE THE WAIST

have finished planning the gown, and have learned to

We

draft the different kinds of waists.

Cutting, Fitting and

After

Making

will

now

take up the

of the waist.

making the draft you should trace, with the tracing off on another piece of paper, and

wheel each piece of the draft

Y2 mcn seam should be allowed at the Armhole, Neck and Back Form pieces.

cut out each part allowing seams everywhere.

1

inch at the shoulder and

1^

inches at the

Under Arm seams,

much need not be allowed Be very at the back unless the waist is to be open there. CAREFUL TO MARK THE TRUE WAIST LINE ON EACH PIECE.

down

This

the back and at the front.

After the correct pattern has been cut from the paper, spread the lining out on a table.

Lay

the different parts of the pattern

on the lining to the best advantage to save cloth. Be very CAREFUL THAT THE TRUE WAIST LINE OF EACH PIECE IS ON THE straight of the cloth crosswise, so that they off

on the bias when

will

not stretch

Be sure to trace the true

finished.

WAIST LINE OF EACH PIECE BEFORE YOU PICK UP THE PATTERN, also trace all seams.

We now have our waist lining all cut out and are ready to baste it

up.

Begin by basting up the back seam,

in front,

the waist

not this seam will not be basted.

if

side forms next to the back, taking

seam where In basting

if

it is circling.

all

Last of

seams the pieces

at the waist line before

always be made

all

open

Next baste the

the second form seams.

must always be pinned together

you begin

full

to

care not to stretch the

to baste

and they should

to come out even at the armhole.

best to pin the seam the

is

It

is

always

length before you begin to baste. 77


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

78

Baste the darts in the front pieces, pinning the waist

Be very

der seams.

It will never

well

fit

and we are ready If

be very few,

you

if

to take

Now

do.

do not crush or

soil it.

the waist

basted

is

all

first fitting.

your measures correctly there should

any changes

if

lining,

to have our patron come for a

you have learned

shoul-

careful not to lose the little curves in the

In basting the

shoulder seams.

line first.

arm seams and

After these are basted, baste the under

to

make.

many linings make at all. Of course

have put

I

on persons where there were no changes

to

is out of shape in any way, their lining must be fitted. Your patron has come to be fitted. Place the lining on her and pin up very carefully, following the tracing either in front

if

a person

or in the back as the case

To

fit

seam.

the waist. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

very

If

let out.

may be.

If the

neck

is

a

cut out a small

little tight,

open the shoulder seam a

tight,

way and

little

If the lining is too tight or too loose at the bust, it

should be taken in or

let

out at the under arm seam.

If the

waist draws from the neck to the armhole, open the shoulder

seam

and

at the neck

let

out in front.

Be

enough between the shoulders and that the armhole.

If it

sure the waist

it is

loose

not too loose at

take in the form seams a

is,

is

After the lining has been thoroughly fitted,

little.

all

the seams

should be stitched and pressed open on the pressing cushion, after they

have

all

been trimmed to about

seam Y2 inch below and above the waist

3^2

line.

inch.

Clip each

Be very

careful

not to stretch the seams or lose any of the curves in pressing. It

is

the curve which gives style to the waist.

We

are ready

now

of Featherbone.

to

bone the

Sometimes

real

lining.

Use the best quality

whalebone

is

used, but

it

has

grown very expensive and most dressmakers now substitute Featherbone.

It will take

silk

thread for stitching

will

make.

The

You can

quality of the

of the

gown

will

about

it in,

3 or 4

Use

yards of the bone.

and the longest

stitch

your machine

get the Featherbone in either silk or cotton.

gown

will

determine which to use.

determine just

how

far

The

style

below the waist

line


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING the bones should be allowed to run. outside the skirt,

and

it

gown

one-piece

of

below the waist

waist

is

to

be worn

should be boned /i inch at back and sides x

inch in front below the waist

1

If the

79

any

sort, the

If a princess

line.

gown

or a

bones should run 3 or 4 inches

In this case the waist should be fitted

line.

very snug about the hips, so that the ends of the bones

will

not

stick out.

The bones

The back

center bone should be 6 or 7 inches long above the

waist

each seam will be of a different length.

for

Each bone should grow

line.

arm seam.

shorter towards the under

This bone should be the shortest of

inches above the waist

line.

The bones

about an inch shorter than the dart so that front bone should be the

opens in the front there

all,

it will

waist

If the

be a bone of equal length on each

These bones should be run in the hem and

side of the front.

and not placed on the outside as on the seams.

stitched,

5

be

The

not show.

same as the dart bone.

will

about 4 or

for the darts should

If

the

waist opens in the back, the two bones should be run in the

hems will

back instead of in the

in the

front, then the front

bone

be stitched on the same as the others.

Cut the bones about ij^ inches longer than you want them. Rip the covering back from each end about bone

off.

^ inch and cut the

Turn the covering down over the end and fasten Pin the upper end to the seam where you

securely but neatly.

want will

it

to come,

come where

it

and spring the bone should.

The bones

and not between the

so that the lower

end

are placed on the inside

and the

outside.

Place

under the machine, holding the bone in place so that

it will

of the waist,

follow the seam.

The

lining

lining will stretch to the bone.

begin stitching at the top of the bone and

This leaves

1

all

stitched in,

when

hump

lining

and

the waist

draw the ends

right side of the waist

on the

Always

inch from the end.

inch of the bone loose at the upper end, and pre-

vents the end showing are

1

it is

and

is

worn.

of the threads

tie securely.

finished.

No.

are best, black for dark colors

2

After the bones

through on the

Sew hooks and eyes

hooks and eyes with a

and white

for light colors.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

So

The hooks

are sewed on the right-hand side of the front

the waist opens in front.

when

back they are placed on the

If in the

Pin the two sides of the lining together, being

left-hand side.

Mark with

sure that the true waist lines are even.

pins the

making them Both the hooks and eyes must be sewed

place where each hook and each eye should go,

about i J^ inches apart.

on the wrong enough

side of the lining, the eyes

to let the

hooks

If the

slide in.

coming out just far

gown

yoke, do not sew hooks and eyes where

to

have a fancy

this will

come, as the

is

we

get the outside ready to

We are ready now to cut the outside.

If this is to follow rather

we can

use the same pattern for

lining will be cut

place on

away

here, after

it.

closely the shape of the lining, cutting.

new

However,

if it is

to be very different,

pattern, always leaving the shoulder

front or back so that

and armhole the same

you wish

looks just as

it

In making

finished waist.

When

cut a

Pin the pattern to your bust form and shape the

as the lining.

of every kind

we must

must be put

this

it

to look in the

pattern for the outside,

in the

all fullness

paper pattern.

the pattern for the outside has been prepared, spread

the goods out on the table and lay

the pieces of the pattern

all

on, being careful to have the true waist line on the straight of the

goods crosswise.

Sometimes, however, small checks and plaids

are cut on the bias.

on a true bias

In

this case the true waist line

the waist opens in front, is

best to pin

used to cut the lining,

and use

In cutting the outside back the

of the goods.

The back

form pieces are not used.

all

if

not, then

all

is it is

the pieces of

this for a pattern

seams with

once, follow the lines

one piece,

cut in two pieces.

you sewed them

and before

made on one

and follow the pins with the chalk. line before

all in

if

It

for the

for cutting the outside back.

side,

tailor's chalk.

marking the true waist

cut

the back pattern, which are

lining, together just as

Cut the goods from the wrong

mark

should be

If

lifting the

two pieces are cut at

side with pins.

Run

pattern

Turn over

a thread in each piece

taking up the pattern.

When


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING the outside

line,

These are

der seams.

under arm seams together, beginning

cut, pin the

is all

with the true waist

and

These seams should be just fitting the lining

changes in

We

outside pattern.

Do the same with

baste.

the seams

all

8l

we have

like the lining, as,

in the outside.

we made any

if

we should have made

the same in the

on the pressing cushion.

on

larger than the form.

of the lining,

the under

Place the outside

and the under arm seams at the armhole

arm seam

Pin securely

of the lining.

armhole, being sure that the outside cut kimono,

it will

where the

When

collar

the outside

is

about the

all

smooth.

is

to

If the outside

not fasten anywhere to the lining, except

at the bottom of the waist. lining

out with soft

fill

Pin the shoulder seams in the outside to the shoulder

it.

seams

is

clipped

line.

place the lining on the bust form and it is

Press open

The under arm seams should be

above and below the waist

paper wherever

Trim

can therefore stitch these seams.

the seams to about 3^ inch and overcast each side.

Now

the shoul-

Of course

waists fasten to the

all

sews on or at the bottom of a fancy yoke.

kimono

it

should be

blouse a

left to

little

under the arms to give freedom in raising the arms. Arrange fullness in the outside just as you wish Pin

finished. fitting.

Put

A very

it,

all

leaving the basting until you have had another

trimming in place while

and keep changing

you wish

it

to

it

a

when

Pin

little

thin

from the goods.

wash goods,

it

is

on the form.

made

being

Use little

If

of course it will not

is

it

looks just

this cloth as a

practice

the dress

have

to cut

on the bust form

to the lining

here and there until

finished.

With a you can cut any waist you see. to cut

it is

good way when a fancy waist

the pattern out of old cloth.

as

when

to be

it

you

is

pattern

will get so

being

made

a lining, unless

of

your

Some people wish their summer gowns made For this purpose we use a thin lining lawn. When

patron wishes one.

on a no

lining.

lining

is

used

it is

nearly always best to use the shirt-waist

pattern instead of the tight lining pattern. all

In this case arrange

tucks and fullness of every kind in your pattern.

Cut from


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING the goods.

Stitch

arrange fullness as

up the seams and place on the bust form to it should be when finished. These waists

must be made with a kind such as shirring, tucking,

Our waist

of fullness that

can be stitched

in,

etc.

ready for a second

we prepare come again.

while to

is

83

fitting,

but we

the rest of the gown, before

will lay it

away

we ask our patron


.

.

LESSON XVI DRAFTING THE COAT OR LINING SLEEVE

Measures used Arm Length Arm Length

for draft given

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

measure

bend Armhole measure Elbow measure to

20 of

Elbow

inches

g}4 inches 15

12K

,

Hand measure

8

inches inches

inches

Draw line A-B length of Arm measure. 2. From point A measure on line A-B length of Arm to bend Mark this point C. of Elbow. At C square a line with line A-B 3 Mark this point D. 4. From C measure on this line 2 inches. i.

5.

Place point

D

on the chart at

D

and draw curve through

6.

Place point

D

on the chart at

D

and draw curve through

A.

B.

D

Mark this point E. Mark this point G. inches to left of E. Mark this point F. inch to right of points F and G. Mark these

7.

From

8.

Measure ij^ inches

9.

Measure ij^

measure J^ Elbow measure.

Measure J^ points H and I. 10.

n. At 12.

point

B

to right of E.

square a line with line A-B.

Measure from B on

this line

Y2 of

Hand

measure.

Mark

this point J. 13.

14.

Measure J4 mcn to the right of J. Mark this point K. At K square a line with line B-K and measure 1 inch

from K. 15.

Mark

this point L.

Connect points

L and B

with a straight

line.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

86

Measure

16.

to the left of

L

Mark

i}4 inches.

this point

M. 17.

Connect points

H and M with a straight line.

18.

Connect points

I

19.

Place point

F on

and

L with

a straight

the chart at

point J falls on line I-L draw curve. 20. Place point F on the chart at

G

line.

and hold chart so that

;

J

falls

21.

on

H-M

line

Measure the

so that

it is

draw

;

line

Connect

N and B

23.

At point

A

24.

F and

From

A

hold so that point

This forms the Elbow.

G-L and extend

the line

Mark

the same length as line G-L.

22.

Mark

curve.

with a straight

F-M

below

this point

M

N.

line.

square a line with line A-B.

measure on

this point

0.

25.

Measure

2

26.

Measure

27.

Extend

28.

At

R

29.

On

this line

30.

At point

31.

At point P square a

32.

Place point

Armhole measure.

this line 14, the

Mark

inches to the right of 0.

this

point

P.

inches to the

2

A-B above

line

Mark

0.

left of

A 2^

inches.

this point Q.

Mark

this point

R. square a line with line R-B.

measure from

R 1^ inches. Mark this point

S.

Q

square a line with line A-P.

Mark

this

Mark

this point

point

T. line

with

line

A-P.

U.

G

on the chart at

curve just touches line A-P.

Draw

T

and hold

so that the

curve and continue

it

to

point A. 33.

Place point

34.

Using

G

on the chart at S and draw curve through

A.

Q

as a center

and Q-S as a

radius,

through points S and U. 35.

36.

Connect points Connect

U

and

T and F with a straight G with a straight line.

line.

draw curve


Coit Sleeve o

Lin in

$

v

Sleeve.


88

PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

In cutting pattern allow Y2 mcn seams everywhere except on inside seam. One inch or more should be allowed here until after the sleeve has

inches from

A

to

been

U.

fitted.

Gather top of sleeve from iYz


LESSON XVII THE ONE-PIECE TIGHT SLEEVE

To make of

the one-piece tight sleeve, trace off on another piece

paper the upper piece of coat or lining sleeve.

Lay piece

line

T-F

of the

under piece on

and trace the under

line

and often the

arm

made It

for the outside.

it will

makes a

it

fits

has no seam at the

It is used for the lining of fancy sleeves

Where one wishes

be found useful.

of thin material

upper

of the

This makes a sleeve which

piece.

exactly like the coat or lining sleeve, but

back from the elbow up.

U-G

It

is

good

to put tucks

around

for the lining of sleeves

where the seam would not look

fine lining for the

mousquetaire

89

sleeve.

well.


One fiece Ti$h

+

Sleeve


LESSON XVIII THE FLOWING SLEEVE

The

flowing sleeve

is

made from

the coat or lining sleeve as

Trace

on another piece of paper

the one-piece sleeve was.

T-F

off

the upper sleeve.

Lay

xipper and trace

the under piece of the sleeve.

i.

off

line

Measure up from point

B

of the under

of the

upper

on

line

U-G

of the

4^ inches. Mark

this point F. 2.

Measure from point

3.

Draw

inches beyond F. 4.

N 4 inches. E

a straight line through

Mark

Measure from

Mark this point E. and F and extend

it

3

this point I.

L on the under piece up 4 inches. Mark this

point G. 5.

Measure from B up

4^ inches. Mark this point H.

Draw a line through G and H and extend 3 inches beyond Mark this point J. 7. Mark the point where these lines cross K. 8. Place point C on the chart at I and hold chart so that curve C-F touches line D-A. Draw curve. 9. Place point C on the chart at J and hold chart so that curve C-F touches line D-A. Draw curve. 6.

H.

10.

Hold curve O-J on the chart

and I-K.

Draw

so that

it

touches lines

In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere. sleeve

is

J-K

curve.

The

flowing

sometimes used in dresses but more often in dressing

sacks and kimonos.

91


FJowin£

£ It ewe


LESSON XIX DRAFTING THE SLEEVE WITH THE TIGHT ELBOW AND LARGE TOP

Measures used

in draft given

Arm Arm

Length Length to bend Armhole measure

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; 20

of

Elbow 1

Hand measure

2.

inches

15

Elbow measure

i.

inches

g}4 inches

Draw line A-B length of Arm measure. From A measure length of Arm to bend

of

2%

inches

8

inches

Elbow.

Mark

this point C. 3.

At C square a

line

with

line

A-B.

5.

From C on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point D. From D measure 3^2 of Elbow measure. Mark this point

6.

Measure

to the left of

this point F. this point

4.

E.

E i 1^ inches. Mark of E iJ4 inches. Mark

7.

Measure

to the right

8.

Measure

to the right of

F

34 inch.

9.

Measure

to the right of

G

34 inch.

10.

Square a

n. On

line at

this line

B

with

line

G.

Mark this point H. Mark this point I.

A-B.

measure from B

J^ of

Hand

measure.

Mark

this point J.

14.

To the right of J measure 34 inch. Mark this point K. At K square a line with line B-K. Measure on this line from K 1 inch. Mark this point L.

15.

Connect points

16.

Measure on

17.

Connect points

and

I.

12. 13.

L

L and B

this line

with a straight

from

L

1

inch.

line.

Mark

M and H with a straight 93

this point

line, also

M.

points


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

94 1 8.

D on the chart at point D and draw a curve to

Place point

B. 19.

Place point

D

20.

Place point

F on

J touches 21.

line

it

N

Connect

24.

At A square aline with

25.

From

Measure

Mark

G.

on

this point

F-M

line

and

23.

26.

and hold

Mark this point N. B with a straight

the same length.

Mark

G

the chart at

G-L and extend

line

A

to A.

hold so that point

so that point

J

I-L and draw curve.

line

Measure

and draw a curve

F and

the chart at

and draw curve.

F on

Place point

just touches 22.

H-M

D

on the chart at

line

below

M to make

line.

A-B.

measure Y2 the Armhole measure.

this line

O.

E

4 times the distance from

to the right of

to

this point P.

27.

Measure

28.

Extend

29.

At

30.

On

to the left of

A-B above

line

Mark

inches.

2

A

2Y2 inches.

this

point Q.

Mark

this

point

R.

point

R

square a line with line R-B.

R

measure from

this line

ij^ inches.

Mark

this

S.

31.

Place point

32.

At point

G on the chart at S

and draw a curve through

A.

T where 33.

where 34.

Q

At P square a this line

line

with

Connect points

35. Place point

G

F and T

36.

Measure

37.

Place point

38.

Mark

D

U

with a straight

T

line.

and hold the chart so

A-P draw curve and continue ;

Mark

this point

to A.

V.

G

and draw curve towards

half

way between S and V.

on the chart at

to V.

Find a point on this point

the point

S.

inch to the right of U.

Extend curve

the point

S.

A-P and mark

on the chart at

that the curve touches line

V.

line

touches the line from

1

Mark

square a line with line A-P.

touches the line from

this line

W.

line

R-V


Sleeve WiihTifhi a

i\

J

L

a.

r$

e

To

p.

Elbow


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

96

39.

Square a

this line

40.

line at

W with

line

R-V and mark point X where

touches A-P.

With

X as a center and X-S as a radius, draw curve from

S to V.

This completes the draft.

If the sleeve is desired larger or

smaller change the distance from

a

medium

O

to P.

The

sized sleeve.

In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere.

draft given, gives


XX

LESSON

Measures used Arm Length Arm Length

in draft given

measure

bend Armhole measure Elbow measure Hand measure to

i.

Draw

2.

Measure from

line

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

A-B

20 of

Elbow

15 1

Arm measure. Arm to bend

length of

of

inches

2j4 inches 8

length of

A

inches

g}4 inches

inches

Elbow.

Mark

this point C. 3.

At C square a

4.

On

line

with

line

A-B.

measure from C,

this line

Mark

2 inches,

this point

D. 5.

From

D

measure Y2 the Elbow measure.

Mark

this point

E.

Mark this point F. Mark this point G. 2^ the right of F, 34 inch. Mark this point H. the right of G, J4 mcn Mark this point I.

6.

Measure

to the left of E, ij^ inches.

7.

Measure

to the right of E,

8.

Measure

to

9.

Measure

to

inches.

-

At B square a line with line A-B. n. On this line measure from B, Yi the Hand measure. Mark 10.

this point J. 12.

Measure

13.

At

14.

On

to the right of J, 34 inch.

this point

K.

K square a line with line B-K. this line

measure from K,

L and B

15.

Connect

16.

Measure on

17.

Connect points

L and

Mark

1

with a straight

this line

from L,

1

Mark

inch. line.

inch.

Mark

M and H with a straight

I.

97

this point L.

this point

line, also

M.

points


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

98 1 8.

D

Place point

on the chart at

D

and draw a curve to

point B. 19.

Place point

20.

Place point

D on the chart

at

D and draw a curve to point

A.

F

F and

on the chart at

hold chart so that

point J touches line H-M. Draw curve. 21. Place point F on the chart at G and hold chart so that

point J touches line I-L. 22. it

Measure

the length of G-L. 23.

Connect

24.

At

25.

From

Mark 26.

Mark

A

N

Draw

curve.

G-L and extend

line

and

line

F-M

below

M,

to

make

Mark this point N. B with a straight line.

square a line with line A-B.

A

on

this line

measure

3^2

the

Armhole measure.

this point 0.

Measure

twice the distance from

to the right of

E

to

G.

this point P.

27.

Measure

28.

Extend

29.

At

to the left of 0, 2 inches.

A-B above A, 2Y2

line

Mark this point Q. Mark this point

inches.

R.

30.

point

On

R square

a line with line R-B.

this line

measure from R, ij^ inches.

Mark

this

S.

31.

Place point

32.

At point

G on

the chart at S and ;

draw curve through

A.

T

;

where 33.

where 34.

Q

Mark

square a line with line A-P.

this line touches the line

At P square a

line

with

this line touches the line

Connect points

35. Place point

G

F and T

from

line

A-P and mark

from

the point

U

S.

with a straight

on the chart at point

Draw

that the curve touches line A-P.

the point

S.

T

line.

and hold chart so

curve and continue

it

to A.

U

36.

Measure

37.

Draw

and V.

1

inch to the right of U.

a straight line

from

G

Mark

this

to a point half

point V.

way between


Le$

OVWuU

on Sieeve.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

ioo

38.

point 39.

point

Find a point half way between

Place point

L

falls

on

C on

from G.

line

D

curve through

this

this

Draw

on the chart at

curve.

V

and

let

curve

fall

on

W.

W and V. line

R-V

half

way between

S and V.

X.

42. Square a

line at

this line touches line

43.

Mark

the chart at G, and hold chart so that

41. Find a point on a

Mark

and G.

W.

40. Place point

Draw

V

With

Y as a

X with line R-V, and mark point Y where

A-P.

center and

S-Y

as a radius

draw curve from

S to V.

Note

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; To

distance from

a

medium

make the

E

to G,

sleeve larger or smaller, change the

and from

to P.

The

draft given

sized sleeve.

In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere.

makes


LESSON XXI HOW Trace

TO CUT, MAKE, AND FINISH THE SLEEVE

on another piece

off

of

paper the upper portion of the

Be sure to trace on the

sleeve.

line D-G, which marks the

ELBOW.

Cut

out, allowing

Allow at

seams everywhere except at the hand.

seam should be allowed

half inch

least

inch or more on the inside seam until after the

i

sleeve has been fitted.

changed

if it

One-

and outside seam.

at the top

It

is

at this

needs any changing.

seam that the sleeve should be Sometimes you will find people

with a very fully developed muscle between the shoulder and elbow.

If this is so the sleeve will

out at this point. let it

out

if

needed.

Now trace off the under portion of the sleeve, Be sure to trace on

leaving the same sized seams.

Now we are

nearly always have to be let

Therefore leave seam enough to be able to

ready to cut the sleeve out of the lining goods.

ways place the

sleeve

on the

on the straight

of the

goods lengthwise.

is

double

fold, so

all

lining

with the

lines

Your

lining, of course,

line

D-F before you

lift the pattern.

seams have been traced pick up the pattern.

notch at point

U or V,

whichever sleeve draft

one about ij^ inches from A.

Begin by pinning the elbow of the under

Al-

F-T and G-U

that you will cut both sleeves at the same time.

Be sure to trace on After

line D-F.

line of the

on each

a

being used, and

Pin the back seam together

and then pin the

to follow the tracing

is

Make

first.

upper to the elbow

line

entire seam, being very careful

piece.

After this seam

is

basted,

pin the elbow lines of the outside seam together and baste in the same

way

as

you did the

from one notch to the other.

inside seam.

The

sleeve

is

Gather the top

ready to be

This should be done at the time the waist lining

is fitted,

fitted.

while


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

102

the waist lining

on your patron.

is

Pull

up the gathers at the

Have your

top and pin the sleeve to the armhole under the arm.

patron bend her arm and bring her arm forward at the shoulder to be sure the sleeve does not

draw a

little,

see

the elbow

if

you have not pinned back seam. the hand patron,

move

draw at the elbow.

it

located just right and that

is

in too far to the waist in the back, at the

After the sleeve

thoroughly fitted turn

is

it

up

at

Before removing from your

to just the right length.

mark where

should

If it

the front seam comes, on the waist.

the waist and sleeve from your patron and

Re-

you are ready

to proceed with the outside of the sleeve. If

your sleeve

to be a plain one with the

is

trimming placed on

the outside, the outside goods will be cut just like the lining. If,

however, the outside

cut for the outside. like the

bust forms.

pays

have one

to

the fancy outside

is

to be

very

If

one

is

The

to take

it

to learn to cut

of cloth.

Cut what you

make what you want and keep changing it get it just right. With a little practice, you can make you want the first time. Most sleeves conform quite think will

much

the lining, so you will not have

always

way

best

an old piece

must be

may be bought,

going to work for others

of these forms. is

different, a pattern

There are sleeve forms which

until

just

you

what

closely to

If there are to

trouble.

be tucks in the sleeve they must be put in the goods before

it is

cut out.

To make

the Mousquetaire sleeve.

on the

is fulled

lining

Be

crosswise. lining all it

sure that the outside

Sew up

the sleeve which

For

lining

this

and sew

Gather the goods on to the lining at the

inside seam, allowing about once sleeve.

is

Cut out the

sleeve use the tight lining sleeve.

up the elbow seam.

This

from the shoulder to the hand.

the inside

and a is

half the length of the

the same size as the lining

seam and tack the

along the outside seam, or where

cannot drop down out of place.

fastenings so that they do not show.

being worn, a very pretty sleeve

is

Be

it

fullness to the

would

careful to

When

be, so that

make

the

large sleeves are

made by putting

small length-


CoaT

51eeve or

LiVung Sleeve

Leo? Q'MuTTg" .sleeve

Flowing Sleeve


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

104

wise tucks from the hand to the elbow, allowing the sleeve to puff from the elbow to the shoulder.

In cutting this sleeve the

tucks must be placed in the goods and tucks must be

left in

the sleeve.

For

all

the fullness left

by the

this sleeve use the one-piece

After sewing up the outside seam to the elbow, fasten

lining.

the tucks in place on the lining.

Cut out the

sleeve

and baste up.

in to the size of the lining,

Baste the goods on the

lining.

Gather the outside at the top

and then gather both the

outside in to the size of the armhole.

A little of

lining

and

the fullness left

by the tucks may be shoved off at the sides but not enough to make it look drawn at the top of the tucks. A bias band or a fancy shaped cuff may be placed at the hand or it may be simply faced with a bias facing.

If

you wish a

sleeve to be

sewed

in at

the armhole without gathers, take the sleeve off at the highest

part of the top about to is

make

it

i

inch,

and take

it

the exact size of the armhole.

in

enough at point

The

A

one-piece sleeve

the best one to use for this sleeve.

After the sleeve

is all

stitched

and pressed, lay

it

away with

the waist until the skirt and drop skirt are prepared. is left

to

do to the sleeve

bias facing, of silk itself.

if

is

the goods

to face is

it

All that

about the hand with a

very heavy;

if

not, of the goods


LESSON XXII DRAFTING THE CIRCULAR SKIRT

Measures used

for draft given

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Waist measure Hip measure

42

inches

Front length of skirt

40

inches

Side length of skirt

40^ 41^

inches

Back length

Take a

inches

25

of skirt

and one straight

sheet of paper having a square corner

edge large enough for the draft.

If

inches

a piece large enough

is

not

at hand, paste several together. 1.

Use the corner

10 inches, 2.

With the same

other 3.

and draw a

circle.

of the paper for a center,

center

and a radius of

Point A.

circle.

and a radius

of 15 inches,

draw an-

Point C.

Measure from A on

circle,

Y the Waist measure.

Mark

this

Y2 the Hip measure.

Mark

this

point B. 4.

Measure from C on

circle,

point D. 5.

Mark

Find a point on

circle

A-B

half

way between

A

and B.

this point E.

% of

Mark

6.

Measure down

7.

Place point J on the chart at E, and with curve J-F draw

an inch from B.

this point

F.

curve towards F. 8.

Mark 9.

Continue curve to F.

Find a point on this point

circle

C-D

half

way between C and D.

G.

Measure down from

D

^

H. 105

of

an inch.

Mark

this point


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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

107

Place point J on the chart at G and with curve J-F draw curve towards H. Continue curve to H. 10.

1 1

Measure from

this point 12.

A on circle A-F 3^ of Waist measure. Mark

I.

Measure from C on

circle

C-H,

3^>

of

Hip measure. Mark

this point J.

Draw

a straight line through I and J and continue down the length of the Back skirt measure. This line is the center 13.

back 14.

line.

Measure from

A down

the edge of the paper, which

is

the front center line of the skirt, the Front length measure of

the skirt.

Point K.

15.

Measure down from

16.

Measure from

E

I the

Back length

of skirt.

the Side length of skirt.

Point

Point L.

M.

The curve for the bottom of the skirt is found by measurdown every few inches the length measures of the skirt.

17.

ing

This skirt draft should never be used for narrow goods.

It

should always be cut from very heavy goods.

In cutting pattern allow seams waist

line.

down

the back and at the


LESSON XXIII DRAFTING THE THREE-GORED CIRCULAR SKIRT

Measures used

in draft given

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Waist measure

25

Hip measure

42

inches

Front Length measure

40

inches

40^ 41K

inches

Side Length measure

,

Back Length measure

Take a

sheet

1.

2.

of the

draw a

circle.

and one

to hold the draft.

paper for a center and with a radius Point A.

With the same center and a radius of

circle. 3.

enough

Use the corner

of 10 inches

inches

paper having a square corner

of

straight edge large

inches

15 inches

draw another

Point C.

Measure from

A on circle,

J^ of Waist measure.

Mark

this

Y2 of Hip measure.

Mark

this

point B. 4.

Measure from

C

on

circle,

point D. 5.

Mark 6.

Find a point on this point

circle

A-B

half

way between A and

B.

E.

Measure down

% of an inch from B.

Mark

this point F.

7. Place point J on the chart at E and with curve J-F draw curve towards F. Continue curve to F.

8.

mark 9.

Find a point on this point

circle

C-D

half

way between C and

D

and

G.

Measure down from

D

% of

an inch.

Mark

this

point

H. Place point J on the chart at G and with curve J-F draw curve towards H. Continue curve to H. 10.

109


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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING ii.

Mark 12.

Measure from

A

on

in

A-F, J^ of Waist measure.

circle

this point I.

Measure from C on

circle

C-H, J^

Hip measure. Mark

of

this point J. 13.

Draw

a straight line through

length of the

Back

skirt

and continue down the

I- J

This

measure.

line is the center

back

line.

14.

Measure from

A down

the edge of the paper, which

the front center line of the skirt, the Front skirt length.

is

Point

K. 15.

Measure down from

I the

back length

of skirt.

Point

L.

On circle A-F measure 1 inch to the left of point E. Mark this point M. Mark 17. On circle C-H measure 1 inch to the left of G. 16.

this point 18.

N.

Draw

M

a line through

Mark

length of Side skirt measure. 19.

Measure

to the right

Mark

of skirt, 9 inches.

N and P,

20.

Connect

21.

A-K-M-P

is

N

and

and

this point O.

left of

these points

and

and continue down the on the bottom curve

P and

Q.

N and Q with straight lines.

the front gore.

M-Q-I-L

is

the back gore.

In cutting out the pattern allow seams everywhere.

Note

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; The three-gored circular

full circular

sides.

skirt,

This gives

skirt draft is the

except that a half -yard

less fullness,

the skirt from sagging.

is

same

as the

taken out at the

and the seam down the

side keeps


LESSON XXIV DRAFTING THE SEVEN-GORED SKIRT

Measures used

in this draft

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Waist measure Elip measure Front length of

skirt

Side length of skirt

Back length of skirt Measure about bottom

Take a

2.

enough

With

3.

inches

40^ 41^

inches

A

inches

yards

and a straight

to hold the draft.

as a center

inches,

draw a

circle

of the paper, A-P.

B-D, beginning at the edge

circle,

inches

40

3

A represents the corner of the paper. With A as a center and a radius of 10

1.

42

piece of paper having one square corner

edge, large

inches

25

.

and a radius

of 15 inches,

draw another

C-E.

From C on circle C-E, measure 1-7 of one half the Hip Mark this point F. 5. From point C on circle C-E measure ij^ inches more than from C to F. Mark this point G. 6. Measure from C to F and C to G. Subtract this amount 4.

measure.

from Y2 the Hip measure. 7. Use what is left of the Hip measure

C

to 8.

From B on

Mark

this point

9.

to

for the distance

H and C to I, making C to H Y% inch less than C to

K. 10.

circle

B-D measure

1

from

I.

inch less than from

C

to F.

K.

From B on circle B-D measure Mark this point L. Measure from B

to

K

and

from Y2 the Waist measure.

"3

B

% inch more than from B

to

L and

subtract this

sum


.

PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

114 11

B

to 12.

Use what

is left

of the

Waist measure

M and B to N, making B to M Place point

C on

for the distance from

j^ inch

the chart at point

less

than

B

F and draw

to

N.

curve

through K. 13.

Place point

D

on the chart at

G

14.

Place point

D

on the chart at

H and draw curve through

15.

Place point

D

on the chart at

I

16.

To form

and draw curve through

L.

M. and draw curve through

N. the inverted plait

from G, touching the

circle

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Measure on a

straight line

Mark

this point J.

C-E, 4 inches.

From L measure on a straight B-D, 33^2 inches. Mark this point 0.

line

17.

18. 19.

touching the circle

%

of an inch. Mark this point 00. Measure up from 0, Place point F on the chart at 00 and draw curve through

L. 20.

Connect

00

21.

To form

the bottom of the gores

B on

and J with a straight

line.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Measure

down from

the edge of the paper the Front length of skirt.

Mark

this point P. 22.

With

A

as a center

and A-P as a

radius,

draw a

circle,

Circle P-V.

beginning at the edge of the paper.

From P on circle P-V measure 3^ inches more than from C to F. Mark this point Q. 24. Decide how wide you wish your skirt about the bottom. This will be determined by the style being worn. 23.

25.

Subtract from 3^ the bottom measure the distance from

P toQ. 26.

parts.

Divide what

Use one

is left

of the

bottom measure

of these parts as a

measure

into three equal

for the three other

gores. 27.

Make

the distance from

P

to

R

2

inches less than this

1-3 measure. 28.

Now

find out

how much

of the

J^ bottom measure you


Seveu Qc-re3 Skirt

£

£<7<?e

c} F±per>


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

Ii6

have used, by measuring from

P

to

Q and

from

this sum from Y2 the bottom measure. 29. Divide what is left into two equal parts.

P to R.

Subtract

-

for the 30.

two

making P

side gores,

Use

this

to S 2 inches less than

Measure from point R, 10

measure

P

to T.

inches, point U, for the

bottom

G

and R,

of inverted plait. 31.

Connect with straight

H and S, 32.

I

34.

points

and T, J and U. the true bottom curve

To find

from waist curve, on each 33.

lines

The front The back

line,

F and

of each gore,

Q,

measure down

the skirt lengths.

gore

is

represented

by B-P-K-Q.

gore

is

represented

by B-P-L-R, with inverted

L-R-O-U.

plait 35.

Front Side Gore

36.

Back Side Gore

37.

To

is

is

represented by B-P-M-S. represented

by B-P-N-T.

lay the inverted plait, place line

L-R

over on line O-U.

In putting the skirt together the straight side of each gore

B-P

will

come against the

bias side of the gore next to

In cutting the pattern allow seams everywhere.

it.


LESSON XXV DRAFTING THE NINE -GORED SKIRT

Measures used

for draft given

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Waist measure

25

inches

Hip measure

42

inches

Front Length measure

40

inches

Side Length measure

40^

inches

Back Length measure Measure about bottom

4i>ÂŁ inches

Take a

yards

3

piece of paper having a square corner

and one straight

side. 1.

A

2.

With

circle, 3.

represents the corner.

A

as a center

and a radius

of 10 inches,

draw a

B-D.

With

A

as a center

and 15 inches as a

radius,

draw a

circle,

C-E. 4.

Mark

From C on

circle

C-E measure

1-9 of half the

Hip measure.

this point F.

%

inch less than from C to 5. From B on circle B-D measure F. Mark this point I. 6. Measure down from B the skirt length measure. Mark this point M. 7. From M, measure 3^ inches more than from C to F. Mark this point N. 8.

Connect

I

and F, and F and

N

with straight

lines.

This

forms the front gore. 9.

From Yi

the

Hip measure subtract the distance from C

to

F. 10.

Divide what

is left

into 4 equal parts. 117

This gives the


MiNe Core

M

W

<3

S Jrjv

f.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

Hip measure

1 19

each of the other gores, or the distance from

for

C

to G.

n. Subtract from J^ the Waist measure to

12.

Divide what

measure

B

the distance from

B

I. is left

into 4 equal parts.

This gives the

for the waist line of all the other gores, or distance

from

to J. 13.

Subtract from Y2 the bottom measure the distance from

M toN. 14.

Divide what

measure

for the

is left

bottom

into 4 equal parts.

This gives the

of all the gores, or the distance

from

M

to 0. 15.

After cutting the front gore, B-M-I-N, cut 6 gores like

the gore represented 16.

To make

17.

Measure from

3 3/2 inches.

by B-M-J-O.

the back gores

Mark

G

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Add the inverted

on a straight

this point

19.

Measure on a straight

touching curve C-H,

line

touching curve C-E,

H.

Measure from J on a straight inches. Mark this point K.

18.

3^

plait.

line

line

from 0, 10 inches.

Mark

this

point P.

Measure up from K, ^2 inch. Mark this point L. point F on the chart at L, and draw curve through J. 20.

21 22.

Connect

L and H, and

B-M-L-P

Cut two

H and P with straight lines.

represents the back gore with inverted plait.

of these gores.

Notch each gore goes.

Place

as

You

it is

have 9 gores in all. cut out, to show just where each one will

Always put the straight

side

B-M

against the bias side

of the next gore. Get the true bottom curve as you did the seven-

gored

skirt.

To

lay inverted plait, place line J-0 on line L-P.

In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere.


LESSON XXVI DRAFTING THE FIFTEEN-GORED SKIRT

Measures used

for draft given

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Waist measure Hip measure Front Length measure Side Length measure Back Length measure

inches

inches

inches 40 4o>ÂŁ inches

41^

Measure about bottom

Take a

25

42

3

piece of paper having a square corner

inches

yards

and one straight

edge. 1.

A

2.

With

represents the corner.

A as a center and a

draw a

circle,

center and a radius of 15 inches,

draw

radius of 10 inches,

beginning at the straight edge of the paper (B-C). 3.

With the same

another 4.

Mark 5.

Mark 6.

skirt 7.

circle

From

D

(D-E).

on

D-E measure

circle

1-15 of the

Hip measure.

this point F.

From B on

circle

B-C measure

1-15 of the

Waist measure.

this point G.

From B on the edge of the paper measure down length. Mark this point H. From H measure 2 inches more than from D to

the Front

F.

Mark

this point I. 8.

Place point

9.

Connect

C on

F and

the chart at I

F and draw

with a straight

line.

curve through G.

This forms the

front gore. 10.

to F.

Subtract from J^ the Hip measure, the distance from

D


Fifteen Gor>ei S'kivt.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 11.

Divide what

12.

Measure from

into 7 equal parts.

is left

D

"3

on

circle

D-E

one of these parts.

Mark

this point J. 13.

B

Subtract from

%

the-

Waist measure the distance from

to G. 14.

Divide what

15.

Measure from B on

this point 16.

is left

into 7 equal parts. circle

B-C one

of these parts.

Mark

K.

Place point

D

on the chart at J and draw curve through

K. 17.

Connect J and L with a straight line. Twelve of these should be cut.

This finishes the

side gore. 18.

To form

the back gore

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Add to the side gore the inverted

plait. 19.

Measure on a

2Y2 inches.

Mark

M Y% inch.

Mark

20.

Measure up from

Measure from J on a straight

Mark

touching the curve,

M.

21.

inches.

K

straight line from

this point

this point

line

N.

touching curve, 3

this point 0.

22.

Measure from L, 8

23.

Connect

inches.

N-0 and P

Mark

this point P.

with a straight

line.

The entire back gore is represented by B-H-N-P. The side gores by B-H-K-L. The front gore by B-H-G-I. To lay the inverted plait, lay line L-K over on line N-P. In cutting pattern allow

all

seams.


LESSON XXVII THE FULL PLAITED SKIRT, MADE FROM THE FIFTEEN-GORED DRAFT

For this make your

skirt

make

the bottom measure 2^2 yards,

draft.

on another piece

paper the front gore.

1.

Trace

2.

Measure out

3.

Measure out ij^ inches from F.

4.

Measure out

5.

Connect these two points with straight

this line.

when you

off

1

of

inch from G.

2^

inches from

I.

This amount added to the gore

6.

Turn the

plait under, turning

the side gore.

7.

Trace

8.

Measure out from B,

9.

Measure out from D, ij^

off

1

on

is

for the plait.

inch.

inches.

2^

Measure out from H,

11.

Connect these points with straight is

and cut on

line G-F-I.

10.

This amount added

lines,

inches.

for a lap to

lines.

run under the plait of the

front gore. 12.

Measure out from K,

13.

Measure out from

14.

Measure out from L,

1

inch.

J, ij^t inches.

2^

inches.

This forms the plait to be turned under on the side gore. This forms the entire skirt except the two back gores. 15.

To form

the back gores

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Trace

off

the back gore, hav-

ing added the inverted plait. 16.

Measure out from B,

17.

Measure out from D, ij^

18.

Measure out from H, 2Y2 inches. Connect these points with straight

19.

1

inch.

125

inches.

lines.

This forms


Full PliiUJ

Fl}

f

Skirt

ec>\ (Pove.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

127

the lap to run under the plait of the gore next to the back.

Lay

the inverted plait by placing line K-J-L over on N-O-P.

Cut the same number

of gores of each

kind as directed in the

plain fifteen-gored skirt.

In cutting from the goods, the

baste

from the goods. it fiat

the line

illus-

each time.

down about

stitch the

in a flat

After each plait has been turned

to the next gore.

B-H

the waist

and

marked B-H on the

must be marked with a thread before the pattern

tration rai'sed

line

Have

Stitch

10 inches.

raw edge

is in,

the edge of the plait follow

on the edge

of each plait

Turn the

wrong

of the plaits to the

skirt

raw edge

from

side out

of the laps

seam about ^2 mc ^ wide. Before removing the bastings plaits in place, give each plait a dead press by

which hold the

placing a wet cloth on

heavy

iron.

The

it

and pressing

skirt should

until dry.

Use a rather

be placed on a band at the waist

and hung about the bottom, before removing the bastings. the skirt is

is

to turn

and

stitch

After

hung even about the bottom, run a thread where

up and then remove the it in.

Press the

bastings.

hem and

it

Turn up the hem

then press the plaits back

in where they were pressed out in pressing the

hem.


LESSON XXVIII TO

MAKE AND

CUT,

First we for the

will

drop

If the skirts

FINISH THE DROP SKIRT AND OUTSIDE SKIRT

take up the drop

The amount

skirt.

must depend on the

skirt

style of the outside skirt.

worn are very scant the drop

correspond.

If

very

full, it

of material

must be made

skirt

must be made with a

full ruffle

to

or

Five and one half yards of cotton lining or 10 yards

plaiting.

of taffeta will

You have be scant or

make a

full

drop

full

and we take

skirt.

whether your outside

of course decided

for granted that

it

skirt is to

you have drafted

your pattern.

You

should do

waist, sleeve

and

the drafting before you begin the gown,

all

skirt.

Use the draft you have made

for the skirt.

Trace

off

each

gore on another piece of paper and allow seams everywhere.

Of course a seam

as only Y2 the front line

and

made

not be allowed

will

% inch on

sides of the gores.

just the length the skirt

the seven-gored skirt, the lines from the hips tight, is

draw the

the front of the draft,

Allow J^ inch seam at the waist The pattern should be

drafted.

is

all

down

if

is

to be

the skirts

down out a

lines just

a

when

finished.

worn are a

little.

little slanting.

If

In using

little full,

slant

they are worn very

Notch each gore

as

it

cut from the paper, beginning with the front, which has one

notch.

The

side of the second gore

front has one notch,

So on until

all

and the other

which comes next to the

side of this gore

two notches.

the gores are notched.

Turn each gore up 10 inches from the bottom and this for

a pattern for the drop

skirt.

pin.

Use

Spread the lining out on

Lay

the middle of the

fold of the goods

and arrange the

the table.

It will be double fold,

front gore

on the lengthwise

if

129

cotton.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

130

The goods being way up or down. Cut out, bottom, as we are to sew our ruffle

other gores to the best advantage to save cloth. plain, the gores

may

be turned either

allowing a good seam at the

Notch each gore to correspond Baste all the seams and stitch.

or plaiting to pattern.

From

to those in the

it.

the other end of the goods, cut enough strips

when sewed

wide, on a true bias, to make,

nj^ inches

together end to end,

Sew

once and a half the width of the skirt around the bottom.

Turn and baste a hem ij^

the seams on. the machine.

wide along one

from the edge.

Divide the bottom of the

each quarter on a separate thread.

making

skirt into four parts,

more than the back fuller in the

This will bring the

parts.

back than

the two front parts two inches

in front.

having the seam come on the wrong skirt as

wide again as that on the

and

in,

the ruffle

is

ruffle

a

little

the ruffle to the skirt,

Have

side.

the seam on the

After the skirt has been

ruffle.

This covers

stitch.

put on.

A

narrow

one at the bottom

if

place of the

enough

ruffle,

of the goods, the

Sew

wide part of the seam over the narrow part,

tried on, turn the

turning

inches

Gather along the other side about J^ mcn Before gathering, divide into quarters and gather

side.

may

ruffle

one wishes.

If

be put on the wide

a plaiting

strips should

same width

the raw edge where

all

is

preferred in

be cut on the straight

as those for the ruffle, to

make

3

times the width of the skirt.

Sew a

band

straight

top of the

skirt,

of the

goods about ij^ inches wide to the

having the band about

2

inches longer than the

Pin the middle of the band to the middle of

waist measure.

the front of the skirt, having the band on the right side of the skirt.

Turn

top of the

in

both ends of the band

You will What is

skirt.

than the band.

1

inch and pin along the

find that the skirt left of

the skirt

is

quite a bit longer

may

be gathered

or laid in a large plait, having the edge of the plait to the

end

of the

The back seam from the top.

in,

come just

band. of the skirt should

be

left

This opening should be

open about 12 inches

hemmed on

each side


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

A

with a narrow hem. that there

is

no

silk

drop skirt

is

131

cut the same except

fold to cut the front gore on.

Fold the goods

together to cut the front, and proceed as in the cotton skirt.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Turn the bottom of the pattern down The Outside Skirt turned it up to use it for the drop skirt. This again, where you leaves the pattern just the length the finished skirt will if

make

possible

wrong

on the fold that

skirt

Never cut the front gore

side up.

in the goods,

is

This used always to be done, but

Make

to be.

is

Spread the goods on the

a perfectly plain skirt.

it is

if it is

We

table,

of the outside

double-fold goods.

no longer considered proper.

a fresh fold just far enough from the edge of the goods

to cut the gore.

After this gore

Never

best advantage possible.

is

cut, lay all others on, to the

lay the front side of the gores

Always lay

exactly on the straight of the goods lengthwise.

the top of the gore back at least ij^ inches.

Always allow

about 4 inches at the bottom of each gore for hem.

If

you are

short of goods only allow two inches, and then the skirt

may be

faced. for

it

It is

never best to cut a skirt the exact length

always takes up in making.

from the goods, turn back

all

the goods with tailor's chalk.

correspond with the pattern.

and

to be,

Before raising the pattern

seams on the pattern and mark on

mark where the bottom Be sure to notch each gore

Also

the pattern comes on each gore.

ones, one at a time,

it is

of

to

Pin the front gore to the second

baste.

careful not to stretch either side.

Pin every few inches and be

When

all

the seams have been

basted in this way, turn the skirt up about the bottom, on the

wrong rubs

side,

on the

line

off easily so it is

handling the so that the

will

chalk.

The chalk

best to trace on the line with thread before

Pin every few inches and high enough up

skirt.

hem

you made with the

not drop down.

the waist line to keep

it

Run

a strong thread along

from stretching when

it is

tried on.

We are ready now for the first fitting. When the patron comes, if

the waist and skirt are to be separate, put the skirt on

over the drop perfect

fit

skirt.

Examine very

carefully to see

if

first,

it is

a

about the hips and waist and notice whether the seams


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

132 all

Do not try to hang the skirt around the bottom

look straight.

seams are stitched and pressed.

until the

While the

the patron lay the inverted plait in the back,

Nowadays

one.

many

there are so

some at the

the front.

All

we can do

Some open on

you how

to tell

is

is

thoroughly

Be sure the outside looks just as any changes necessary. Pin the

it

fitted,

the

the plain

put on the waist.

Make

finished.

sleeve into the armhole, taking

you were taught

collar just as

make

to

when

should

care that the inside seam comes just where

Cut a

be

to

is

back and some at the side of

side of the

After the skirt

skirt.

there

different styles of skirts,

that you will have to use your ingenuity. side,

if

on

skirt is

should to hang right.

it

neck band for

to cut the

the shirt waist, only wider, of whatever material the collar

and

to be

inch wider than

i

when

Pin

finished.

it

gown

carefully so as not to lose

There should be one more except the

hem

any pins, and

fitting, after

in the bottom.

If

the

you do

never have to be brought back for changes. skirt,

which,

if

it

needs no changes,

is

it is

ready to

gown this

is all

all

the

finish.

finished

your work

Finish

on

in place

Remove

the patron, shape the top and get the exact length.

is

will

up the drop

finished but sewing

Turn down the edge of the band, which is not basted, and baste on the wrong side just opposite the first basting. Stitch on the right side. This will make a band about on the band.

Y2 inch wide at the top of the skirt. Sew a good large hook and This finishes the eye on the band and press the entire skirt. drop be.

skirt.

If

Finish

up the waist according

a separate waist

is

worn

to the style

outside the skirt,

the waist should be finished with a bias band about

wide. side

Stitch the

and hem.

band on the

Stitch

it

of the bones, so that clear to the

and fasten sleeves

and

enough

to

bottom all

the

right side,

first

when

it is

to

the bottom of

i^

inches

turn up on the wrong

time just a seam below the ends

it is

of the waist.

finished the bones will

Finish

all

come

other parts neatly

trimmings where they should be.

Baste in the

Bind the armholes with a bias band wide cover the seam. Finish the sleeves at the bottom stitch.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

hem

with a

After the waist

seams.

Stitch

seams.

all

we must

finish the skirt.

it

Stitch

has been fastened to the waist, this

Turn the

skirt

is

wrong

seam and fasten

stitch at the waist line near the

with a pin so that

cannot ravel but so you can get at the seam.

Trim

off to

about ^2 inch, and overcast.

Press

we must put a we did on the drop skirt. A band may be bought ready made or one may be made as If

band on waist

hooks and Peet or thread

can be accomplished.

it

Cut a

side out.

finished

is all

If the skirt

hard to do, but

open.

1

whichever seem best, wherever necessary.

loops,

all

Place No.

or facing.

133

the skirt

separate from the waist

is

at the waist line, just as

we did for the drop skirt. It is to buy the ready made band. the placket should be finished.

wide down the skirt,

side,

if

you are sewing

Before putting on this band,

of the

made

goods

like the

goods lengthwise.

Stitch

of

To

turn on the wrong side and hem.

side of the placket,

for others

Put a facing about ij^ inches

the placket,

left side of

and perfectly straight

on the right

best

sew a straight piece

the other

of the goods,

4 inches

Sew one edge

wide, which has been folded together lengthwise.

to the unfinished side of the placket, having the piece

Turn

right side of the skirt. stitching just

made and

in the other edge, baste along the

stitch again

to catch the last basting.

on the right

This will form a flap

2

inches wide to

hem on

your inverted

plait so that the edge of the plait

the other side of the placket.

Stitch each plait in place

Be sure

side.

run under the

the edge of the placket.

on the

You

came

laid

just to

on the machine

x inch back from the edge. Place hooks on the hem side about /i and Peet eyes on the flap. Now sew the band to the top of

the skirt, and

the skirt

is

it is

finished, all

but the

hem

in the bottom.

fastened to the waist the placket

is

If

finished in the

same way.

The one

is

skirt

to

we have given

all

a perfectly plain skirt.

If a

fancy

be made, the pattern must be prepared before

cut from the goods.

pin

is

If

you wish a

skirt

it is

with a circular flounce,

the gores together and cut a piece from the bottom of


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

134

the skirt just the width you wish your flounce. Slash this piece up from the bottom every few inches. Spread each cut apart a little and paste a piece of paper underneath, to hold them apart.

These slashes must extend almost all

these slashes, have been spread apart

cular flounce. skirt,

until

allowing a

on the

little

seam at the Stitch

skirt.

you

have your

will

cir-

of the pattern for the pattern of the

on the bottom to run under the flounce

properly hung.

it is

flounce and a

If

Use the top

When

to the top of the piece.

on

Allow a hem on the bottom top.

Turn

of the

and lay

in the top

it flat

the outside as near the edge as possible.

you wish a fancy-shaped yoke

in the skirt, pin the

seams of

the skirt together at the hips and waist line and cut a yoke any

shape you wish.

Turn

skirt by.

Use the lower part

of the pattern to cut the

in the lower edge of the yoke.

Place the skirt

underneath and stitch as near the edge as possible. is desired

with set-in plaits half

how

decide

far

way up on some

up you wish them

off

where you wish the top

on

these gores about 2 inches wide.

of paper,

The

and pin them

top of the plaits

to catch

shape

it

when was

the

Lay

to the gore just

come.

Allow a

stitched in.

hem

the plaits in a piece

where you want them.

Now

far

enough

cut the gore the same

This gives you an exact pattern for the

gore with the plaits set skirt,

of the plaits to

of the gores,

Cut these gores

must extend up under the hem

hem is

before.

to come.

If a skirt

in.

Whenever any

plaits are

put in a

always keep them securely basted in until the skirt

is

finished.

You

will

soon learn to cut any kind of a skirt you wish.

ways begin with from that.

the plain foundation and

Al-

work out your pattern


LESSON XXIX WOMEN'S MUSLIN UNDERWEAR

For

the petticoat to be placed on a band, use the draft given

Pin the front gore to the second, and

for the seven-gored skirt.

cut together as one gore.

The dart

This will

make

a wide front gore.

at the top where the front gore rounds in to the waist

should be put

Cut the back

in.

back gore without the inverted

seam

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; PETTICOATS

side gore just as

Add

plait.

at the top but not at the bottom.

This

back seam and leave a few gathers at the waist the skirt a

little less

outside skirt.

If

it is

less

bottom

skirts being

you wish

be about 3 inches. full,

full dress skirts are

to be as the

the goods

ruffle of

will straighten the

Make

around the bottom than you would make an

very

depend on the dress shorter than

Cut the

in the back.

being worn, a 3 -yard

be found a good width for a petticoat.

skirt will

it is.

3 inches to the back

Sew

worn.

width

to

of

The width must

Cut the

embroidery edge, lace or

put on the bottom.

This should

(which should not be very

this ruffle

than once and a half the width of the

of the skirt,

much

skirt as

skirt)

having the seam on the inside.

stitching the ruffle on, place a straight

band

2^

to the

Before

inches wide so

that the edge comes just even with the edge of the ruffle where it is

to be stitched on.

Turn

this

band up on the

turned in the raw edge, and stitch in place.

seam and forms the hem

Make

This covers the

inches wide of embroidery, or

12

width of the

and a

Put the flounce on the bottom

of the skirt, so that the

ruffle

This

embroidery or lace sewed on the edge.

flounce should measure once

of the flounce

having

of the skirt.

a flounce from 8 to

of muslin with

skirt,

half the

comes just even with the lower edge

which forms the bottom

of the skirt.

135

skirt.

lower edge

of the

narrow

Place a narrow


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

136 bias

band about 3-8

of

an inch wide, after both edges are turned

over the seam where the flounce

in,

on both edges

Hem

the top.

over on the

sewed to the

of the skirt

open

about 12 inches from

for

the right side of this opening with a

Lap

with a narrow hem.

left side

bottom

at the

left

Stitch

skirt.

band very near the edge.

of this

Leave the back seam wide and the

is

on the machine so that

of the opening

and

gather the

Take a

the skirt from the back side seam to the opening.

straight

and

piece of muslin 2 inches wide, lengthwise of the goods,

Turn

inches longer than the waist measure.

and turn

raw

in the

edge of the

Sew

the

band on the

wrong side.

right

hand end

The

to the top of the skirt,

right side of the skirt

and the other on

left

hand

skirt.

a Yoke.

Petticoat with

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Cut

a yoke of the muslin,

according to the directions for cutting yokes in

having

having one

band and place a button on the

of the

inch

1

and work a buttonhole in the

Stitch into place

This finishes the

end.

end

in each

2

Fold together lengthwise so that

edges.

the edges are just even.

inch

stitch across

Now

cannot tear down.

it

hem Y%

the right side

LESSON

28,

m ade a pattern first. Make the yoke the same width from

the waist line

all

the

way

around.

Use the same foundation

pattern you used for the petticoat just given, but add 6 inches at the back where the skirt

make

the back

yoke

is

seam about

Of course the

bottom.

deep, this

seam

the

seam on the

band.

stead of

straight, as

and sew

this skirt the

to the

off at

at the

as the

the top and not

of the skirt

from back

of the yoke,

having

Cover the seam with a narrow bias opening in the back must be faced

Face with a straight piece

Lay one

and

stitch across as in the other skirt.

side over

of

goods about

This opening should be

Instead of the straight band at the waist

band about

1

in-

on the other at the bottom

inches wide.

stitch a bias

we add nothing much shorter

bottom

i}/2

12 inches long.

This wilt

be cut as

Gather the top

inside.

hemmed.

sew on the yoke.

amount being taken

to placket

For

to

skirt will

at the bottom of the skirt. side

is

line,

inch wide to the yoke at the waist


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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

138 line,

having the band on the right side of the

band over on the wrong

side.

Turn

again, as near the edge as possible.

edge of the

skirt.

Work

the top of the yoke. the one given before.

in the

skirt.

Turn the

raw edge and

stitch

Stitch again near the top

a buttonhole and sew on a button near

Finish the skirt at the bottom the same as


XXX

LESSON

THE NIGHT - GOWN

For

the night-gown the shirt-waist draft

how deep

deciding

the yoke

is

piece of paper, using the neck, shoulder

For the

hole as needed.

skirt of the

will

and as much

slanting lines from point

be about

2 1-8

hem

at the

two-inch

or

2%

of the

T

of the

on

a

arm-

For the under so that the skirt

yards around the bottom.

bottom

After

night-gown use the rest of

the armhole which was not used in the yoke.

arm seam draw

used.

is

to be, trace off the pattern

gown, and at the

Allow a

front,

where

the skirt gathers on the yoke, 4 inches for gathers and 3 inches

Gather the skirt to the yoke, having the seam on the

at the back. right side,

and cover the seam with

bought at any dry goods

store.

which can be

finishing braid,

The yoke may be made any

depth, and as fancy as one wishes, using tucks, lace or embroidery.

A

may be made by using all-over embroidery The yoke may be buttoned down the front from it may be cut away, leaving a V-shaped opening

very pretty gown

for the yoke.

the neck, or

There should be no seam down the front or back of

in front.

the gown.

If the

goods

is

not wide enough to cut

it,

put gores

at the sides to make it wide enough. Open the skirt of the gown from the yoke down the front about 18 inches. Put hem of an inch wide down the right side and a narrow hem down the left side of the opening. At the lower end lay the

on

%

right side over

down.

on the

left

and

stitch across to

keep

For the sleeve use the shirt-waist

it

from tearing Gather the

draft.

bottom into a band, or use a narrow band and sew a lace or

embroidery to the lower edge.

off short,

the lower edge trimmed

139

and

The

sleeve

left to

ruffle of

may

hang

be cut

loose.


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LESSON XXXI THE CHEMISE

For off

the chemise the shirt-waist draft

may also be used.

Trace

on another piece of paper the neck, shoulder and armhole After this pattern has been made, trace

of the shirt-waist front.

with the tracing-wheel a

extending from about 4 inches

circle

from the neck, on the front

a point about

line, to

Cut on

the armhole on the shoulder.

of the pattern

and draw a

line

out enough at the bottom to

from the front

from

make

line to the line just

this line

Add

part for the pattern of the chemise.

T

off

the front.

Draw

30 inches long, slanting

the skirt measure 3^ yard

Make

drawn.

a circle from a point

hole on the shoulder

seam

Cut on

make

line

from

Add

garment measure 2

T

the skirt measure

the line just drawn.

out

arm

the front line

line.

For the

you did

for

inches from the arm-

from the neck on

and use the lower part

5 inches to the

back

of the

of the pattern

30 inches long, slanting out enough to 3^2

yard from the middle back seam to

This makes the bottom of the finished

2 yards.

or 3 inches, as

2

to a point 5 inches

this line

pattern for the chemise.

and draw a

and use the lower

the neck, shoulder and armhole as

back, trace

inches from

5 inches to the front

long enough to correspond with the under

the back line.

2

The

shown

line

down

the back should slant

in the drawing.

To

cut from the

goods, lay the middle of the front and the middle of the back

on the

fold of the

the same circle as the neck of

added

for gathers.

ders.

Make

this

x inches wide, Cut a band \ /i the chemise, leaving off the amount

goods lengthwise.

Join the front and back bands at the shoul-

band double

of the goods.

together at the upper edge and turn. Y

lower edge of the band about /i inch. 141

Turn

Stitch the two pieces in

both edges at the

Gather the chemise be-


cu

H=

V to

H

-+-

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-C


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

144

tween points

X

and

Y

into this band, placing one edge

and one on the wrong

right

edge as possible.

Stitch' in place, as

side.

on the

near the

Face the armhole with a bias facing cut

i

Sew this facing to the garment on the right side. Turn back on the wrong side and after turning in the raw edge stitch in place, stitching as near the edge as possible. Sew about

inch wide.

the neck and armholes a narrow lace, fulled on.

These chemise

may be made very fancy, if one wishes, by putting in little yokes of insertion or embroidery.

The Chemise without Gathers. ments are often made

is

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Another way these gar-

without any gathers at the neck

To

cut one this way, simply do not add the 5 inches to the front and

back, but

draw the

at the bottom.

yoke but

way

is

holes.

will

(See

front 111.)

and back

lines slanting

out 5 inches

This will take out the fullness at the

not narrow up the

skirt.

The chemise made

this

often embroidered in scallops about the neck and arm-


LESSON XXXII women's corset covers

For

the tight-fitting corset cover, use the tight waist draft

without back forms.

this corset cover, it

Cut the pattern from paper, allowing seams

Cut the neck out

everywhere.

sew up the seams on the wrong

has been fitted trim

Turn

34 inch wide. baste

down

as low as desired.

one

off

side of the

wards the back.

A hem

each side of the front.

with lace or embroidery.

It

after

about

it

seam and Stitch as

be turned to-

made down

hem, having turned

this

Sew buttons on the

left

in

hand hem and

Trim the neck and armholes

work buttonholes on the right hem. face the armholes

all

iJ4 inches wide should be

Turn down

the raw edge, and stitch.

(Fell seam.)

The seams should

near the edge as possible.

and

seam, leaving

in the edge of the other side of the

over the trimmed edge.

flat

In making

side,

makes the

corset cover stronger to

and neck with a narrow bias binding, instead

hemming them with a narrow hem. Corset Cover Fulled at Neck and Waist Line. Use the shirt-waist draft. Cut out the neck as much as desired. Add

of just

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

3 inches

with a narrow

Hem

of the waist, beginning at

seam on the

To

Sew

front

to the

bottom

2

5

Cut from the

another

a

bottom

inches from the under

arm

seam on the

of the waist a circular piece of muslin.

of a circle just Y2 of the waist measure.

Draw

in at the

inches from this

draft this piece, take a radius of 12 inches

3 inches.

Run

lace edge.

Gather the waist

about

and about

not add any-

the neck and armholes

hem and sew on beading and

ribbon through the beading.

back.

Do

on the front and nothing on the back.

thing to the bottom of the waist.

arc.

and draw a part

Measure from

this circle

Slant the end out just a

cloth, laying the straight 145

end on the fold

little.

of the


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148

PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

goods lengthwise.

Sew

waist, having the

seam on the wrong

baste a straight

the top of this piece to the bottom of the

band about

turned up over the seam. turned in the raw edge. right-hand

hem and

side.

Before stitching,

% of an inch wide so that Stitch

Work about line,

may be

and turn the band up, having 3 buttonholes

place buttons on the left hem.

at the top, one at the waist

it

and one

half

down the Have one

way between.


LESSON XXXIII SEAMLESS CORSET COVER MADE FROM THE SHIRT-WAIST DRAFT i.

Trace

off

on another piece

of

paper the back piece of the

shirt-waist draft. 2.

Measure towards the with point

this point

Measure

3.

with

T by

4.

Lay

T

right from point

by a

to the left of

a straight

V

i

Connect

inch.

straight line.

W

1

inch,

and connect

this

point

line.

these two lines on top of each other

and trace

off

the

waist.

neck as much as desired.

5.

Cut out

6.

Add

7.

Measure

to the right of point

8.

Connect

U

in the

to the front of the

and

V

neck 3 inches.

X3

Point U.

Mark

inches.

with a straight

line.

This

this

line is

V. the

front line of the corset cover. 9.

Cut

all

in one piece, laying the center

back

line

on a fold

of the goods lengthwise.

Gather the bottom, beginning about 2Y2 inches from the Under Arm for the back and 4 inches for the front (Y to V). 10.

11.

Finish the bottom with a circular

corset cover with 12.

frill,

as given for the

Under Arm seam.

Gather the front at the neck, as given for the other corset

cover.

149


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LESSON XXXIV women's circular drawers

To

take the measures

Take waist measure, Measure down the above the bend

as for dress.

side of the leg

of the knee.

Measures used

.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

in draft given

from the waist

line to just

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Waist measure

25

inches

Measure

23

inches

Take a

to knee

piece of paper having a square corner

and one straight

edge. 1.

Measure from the corner

2.

With

paper

of the

2

Point

inches.

A.

A as

a center

and a radius

beginning at the edge of the paper. 3.

From B on

this circle

measure

of 10 inches,

Mark

this circle

Mark

inch.

1

draw a

circle,

B-C. this point

D. 4.

From

B,

down

the edge of the paper, measure 6 inches.

Mark

this point E.

5

Connect D and

6.

Measure from point

the Waist measure.

E with a straight line.

D

Mark

on

circle

B-C

1

inch more than J4

this point F.

7.

From F on

8.

Measure from point D, down the edge

circle

B-C measure 4

inches.

Mark

this point

G.

length of leg from waist to knee. 9.

With the corner

from the corner to

of the

Mark

of the paper, the

this point

H.

paper as a center and the distance

H as a radius, 151

draw a

circle

from H.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

152 10.

point

On

from

this circle

H

Mark

measure 24 inches.

this

I.

n. Connect

G with

and

I

12.

From G on

13.

Measure from

a straight

I-G measure

line

line.

17% inches. Mark

this

point

j-

on

I

circle

1%

H-I

Mark

inches.

this

point K. 14.

Connect points

15.

At J square a

K

line

and F with a straight with

line.

line G-I.

Place point J on the chart at J on the draft so that the curve just touches line F-K. Draw curve. 16.

This finishes the front portion of the drawers.

To 1.

draft the

back

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Measure from the corner

of the

paper

Mark

2 inches.

this

point A. 2.

With A

as a center

and a radius

beginning at the edge of the paper. 3.

4.

Mark

From B on circle B-C measure 1 From B, down the edge of the

draw a

this circle

Mark

inch.

circle

B-C.

this point

D.

paper, measure 6 inches.

this point E.

D

and

5.

Connect

6.

Measure from

Mark

this point F.

7.

of 10 inches,

Mark

E

D

with a straight

on

circle

line.

B-C 34

Measure from F towards B on

circle

the Waist measure.

B-C,

1

inch.

Mark

this point G. 8.

leg

Measure from D, down the edge

from waist to knee.

9.

10.

Mark

of the paper, the length of

this point

H.

Measure from point A, 2Y2 inches. Mark this point With I as a center and I-H as a radius, draw a

I.

circle

from H. 11.

point 12. 13.

K.

Measure from H, on

this circle, 26 inches.

Mark

this

J.

Connect J and G with a straight line. Measure from G on line G-J, 20 inches.

Mark

this point


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

K

14.

At point

15.

Measure from

K on this line ij^ inches.

16.

Continue

L-K

17.

Measure on

153

square a line with line J-G.

Mark

this point

L. line

past K.

this line

from K,

2

Mark

inches.

this point

M. 18.

M and F with a straight

Connect

line.

Place point J on the chart at L and hold chart so that the curve just touches line M-F. Draw curve. 19.

C

20.

Connect J and

21.

Place point

L

D

with a straight

line.

on the chart at point

on the chart just touches

line

F-M.

G

Draw

and hold

so that

curve.

This finishes the back portion of the drawers.

In cutting the pattern from the draft lay line

on

line

E-H

of the

E-H

of the front

back as there should only be one piece for There should be no seam at the

each leg of the drawers.

side.

TO MAKE THE DIFFERENT SIZES For every inch added to the waist, add the front and curve of the front

HOW

H-J

and G-K

of the back.

;

pieces of the material, one for each side.

one front to

line

sewing for about

sew

x inch to G-J Also add /l

of the back.

J-I to line L-J of each leg,

seam.

inch to curve H-I of

TO CUT MAKE AND FINISH THE CIRCULAR DRAWERS

Cut out two of

1

fell

This seam should be

Cut a

I.)

bias

band about

to the rest of this line F-J, placing the bias

after

F-J

1

F and

made

a

fell

inch wide and

band on the

right

seam about J^ i ncn fr° m tne Turn the band over on the wrong side of the garment, and turning in the raw edge, stitch into place. Put a bias

side of the garment.

edge.

Sew

seam.

line

line

F-J of the other, beginning at point

7 inches.

(See Lesson

making a

Sew

facing on lines

G-L

Stitch in a

of

both backs just as you have just been


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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

156

Sew line D-E

taught to do on the fronts.

making a

fell

seam.

put on just as you did the other this

one

will

finishes the

have

it

to

little

2Y2 or 3 inches wide. off as

Sew one edge

time you sew the

up

it is

D-E at each side,

The lower edge

put on a

drawers except the bottoms of the

must be cut

wide.

facings.

to be stretched, as

be finished just with a ruffle

to line

Finish about the top with a bias facing,

much

The

draft was

at the

of the facing

ruffle,

legs.

lace edge, or they

bottom

made

circle.

of

This

These may may have a

full length, so

as the

trimming

is

about the bottom at the same

turn in the raw edge, and turn the facing

form a narrow hem.

Three buttons and buttonholes should

be placed down the back, beginning at G, about

Rather large buttons are

best.

2

inches apart.


LESSON XXXV DRAFTING THE PEINCESS GOWN

The

waist part of the princess

French forms.

tight waist with

Measures used

for draft given

gown

is

drafted just like the

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Waist measure Neck measure

25

Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure

.

i.

Draw line A-B

2.

Measure from

inches

13^2 inches 15

length of

A

the

inches

39

inches

i^H

inches

7^

inches

15X 10^

inches inches

16

inches

Back measure.

Under Arm measure.

Mark

this

point C.

D

3.

B

4.

At

5.

Measure from

D

6.

Place point

on the chart at B and draw curve through

7.

At C square a

line

to

D

is

Y2 inch.

square a line with A-D.

on

this line

\x

/l inches.

Mark

this

point

E.

E.

8.

9.

with A-B.

C to F is Y2 of Bust measure. From C on line C-F measure Y2

of

back width.

Mark

this

point G.

G

10.

At

11.

Measure on

Mark

square a line with line C-F.

this point

this line

from point

H. 157

G

1-3 of

Armhole measure.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

158 12.

D

Place point

on the chart at point E, and draw curve

13.

Extend curve J^ inch beyond H. Extend line G-H above H 1% inches. Mark

14.

At

15.

On

16.

From

through H.

this point I.

I square a line with line G-I.

measure from

this line

Mark

I 2 inches.

this point

j-

Mark

G

on

this point

C-F measure 34

line

of

Armhole measure.

K.

17.

Find a point half way between

18.

At

K and G.

Mark

this

point

L.

19.

'point 20.

K

square a line with C-F.

Measure on

this line

Mark

2Y2 inches from K.

this

M. Measure

full

length of curve E-H, and measure the

Mark

length from J on line I-J, extended.

this point

21.

Place point

G

on the chart at

H and draw

22.

Place point

O

on the chart at

M

23.

Place point

F on

24.

Square a

25.

Measure on

same

N.

curve through

L.

and draw curve through

L.

the chart at

M and draw a curve through

j-

line

with

line

C-F

so that

it will

pass through

N. less

what

is

this line

from C-F the Upper Front measure,

Mark

used in the back neck.

D

Place point

27.

From O measure on

this point 0.

and draw curve through

on the chart at

26.

34 of Neck measure.

this line

Mark

this point P. 28.

At P square a

29.

Measure on

add 34 mcn

-

line

with

this line

Mark

line

from

P

0-P. 1-6 of the

Neck measure and

this point Q.

30.

Place point J on the chart at

31.

From Q draw

O. line

through F.

Q

and draw curve through


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 32.

Mark 33. 34.

Mark

From Q on this point

159

measure the Front length measure.

this line

R.

At L square a Measure on

with

line

this line

line

from

C-F.

L

Under Arm measure.

the

this point S.

35.

Connect S and

36.

From A on

A with a straight line.

% of an inch.

measure

this line

Mark

this

point T.

T and B

37.

Connect

38.

Measure on the shoulder curve

hole. 39.

Mark

40.

41.

inches from the

2

Arm-

U.

Mark

left of this point.

T

From V measure

\}/Âą

this

and

%

Measure

S.

point V.

Mark

inches to the right.

this

W. Connect

U

and

U-W. Draw

43.

Measure

44.

Place point

W with a straight

C on

42. Place point line

line.

Find a point half way between

inch to the

point

this point

with a straight

the chart at

V

line.

and

point

let

D

touch

curve.

to the right of S,

D

1

Mark

inch.

on the chart at

this point

L and draw

X.

curve through

X. 45.

Measure

to the left of S,

46. Place point

A

i% inches. Mark

on the chart at

Y

this point

Y.

and draw curve through

L. 47.

Measure from

how much

of

T

to

W

and from

V

to

X.

This shows

the Yl Waist measure has been used in the

back. 48. ]/2

From

point

Y

towards

R

measure what

Waist measure after taking out what

Mark 49.

is

is

left

of

the

used in the back.

this point.

Measure the distance from

this point to point

R.

This gives what must be taken out in the dart to bring the waist in to the desired measure. 50.

Place point

draw curve

to S.

C on

In this case

the chart at

R

it is

4^

inches.

and with curve C-F


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

160

51.

Measure from J on curve J-O,

52.

Measure from

53.

Connect a and Z with a straight

54.

Measure from a on

Mark

2 inches.

this point

Z.

6 for a short figure. 55.

Measure

R

Mark

56.

Place point

tall figure

and

this point c.

Mark

B on

this point a.

line.

a-Z 8 inches for a

line

to the right of a

taken out in the dart.

Mark

2Y2 inches.

4^ inches,

amount

or the

to

be

this point b.

the chart at c and with curve

A-B

con-

nect c with b. 57.

Measure down from

R5

inches and from this point meas-

R

ure to the right J^ inch more than from

Mark

to a.

this point

e.

58.

Draw

a straight line from a through e and continue

Point

the length of the front skirt measure. 59.

Continue

measure.

Q-F-R down

line

Point

it

f.

length of front skirt

the

d.

60.

Connect d and

61.

Square a

line at

f

with a straight

b with

line a-b

line.

and continue

it

down

the

length of front skirt measure. 62.

Continue

L-S down below S

line

5 inches.

Mark

this

point h. 63.

Measure

64.

Place point

Extend

i.

line

1

Mark

inch to the right of h.

D

on the chart at

down

slant of this line will

Y and

this point

draw curve through

the length of side skirt measure.

depend on how

i.

The

the skirts are being

full

worn. 65.

Draw

straight line from

X

Continue down

through h.

length of side skirt measure. 66. line

Find a point half way between

with line

67.

Draw

V-W

and draw

5

V

through

line

through

W

and square a

Mark

inches long.

V

straight line from

and

j

this point

j.

and continue down

length of back skirt measure. 68.

From

W draw straight

length of back skirt measure.

j

and continue down


JWftcess Gowyl.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

jfa 69.

Continue

70.

From T draw

line

A-B

5 inches

Mark

below A.

this point k.

Continue down

straight line through k.

length of back measure.

The will

slant of all the lines to 5 inches below the waist

depend on the hip measure. From

entirely

on the

this point

fullness of the skirts being worn.

should always slant more than the front, to

fit

down it depends The back lines

over the large part

of the hips.

The

draft given

makes a medium width

measure

skirt.


LESSON XXXVI DRAFTING THE SINGLE

-

BREASTED,

TIGHT

-

FITTING,

TAILORED

COAT In drafting the coat some of the measures must be increased, as the coat

We

made

is

add

to go

inch to Waist

measure

inches

13^

inches

inch to Armhole measure

16

inches

inch to Bust measure

40

inches

14

inches

1 1

dress.

26

i

Neck measure same

Add Add Add

on over the

as for dress

yi inch to Back Width measure

Under

Arm same

7^

as for dress

Front Length same as for dress.

Add

yi inch to Upper Front Back Length same as for dress

i.

Draw A-B

2.

Measure on

Mark 3.

inches

i$}4 inches

n>ÂŁ

inches

16

inches

length of back. line

A

A-B from

the

Under Arm measure.

this point C.

Continue

line

A-B above B

%

of

an inch.

Mark

this

point D.

5.

At D square a Measure from

D

6.

Place point

on the chart at B and draw curve through

4.

line

with

on

A-B.

line

this line

1%

inches.

Mark

this

point

E.

E. 7.

8.

At C square a line with line A-B. Measure from C on this line J^ the Bust measure.

Mark

this point F. 9.

Mark 10.

Measure from C on

line

C-F the Back Width measure.

point G.

At

G

square a line with line C-F. 163


.

PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

164 ii.

Measure on

12.

this line 1-3 of the

Armhole measure.

Mark

H.

this point

Place point

H. Extend curve

D

on the chart at

3^2

mcn beyond H.

G-H

13.

Extend

14.

At

15.

Measure from

16.

Measure

line

E

and draw curve through

H 1% inches.

above

Mark

this point

Mark

this point

I.

I

square a line with line G-I.

on

I

this line 2

inches.

j-

Mark 17.

G on line

to left of

this point

C-F 34

the

Armhole measure.

K.

G and K. Mark

this point

2% inches. Mark

this point

Find a point half way between

L. 18. 19.

K

At

square a line with C-F.

From K measure on

this line

M. 20.

G

Place point

on the chart at the end

of

E-H

curve

and draw curve through L. 21

Place point

22.

Place point

23.

Extend

M and draw curve through

on the chart at

L.

F on

M and draw curve through

the chart at

j-

24.

same

line I- J.

Measure the

25.

Square a

26.

Measure on

measure, 27.

Place

through 28.

less

line

Mark

with

line

this point

C-F

this line

what

is

point

D

E-H and measure

length of curve

full

distance from J.

N.

so that

from

it

will pass

C-F

line

the

used in the back neck.

on

the

chart

the

through N.

Upper Front

Mark

point O.

and draw curve

at

J.

Measure from

on

line

O-N

J^>

the

Neck measure.

Mark

this point P. 29.

At P square a

line

with

line

O-N.

From P on this line, measure J4 inch. Mark this point Q. 30.

1-3 the

Neck measure

plus


.

PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 31.

Place point

N on

165

and draw curve through

the chart at

Q32.

Draw

33.

Measure on

Mark

Q through F. Q the Front

a straight line from

this point

this line

from

Length measure.

R.

K

34. Find a point half way between

Mark

and L.

this

point S. 35. 36.

Mark

At S square a

line

with

Measure from S on

line

C-F.

Under Arm measure.

this line the

this point T.

T

and

37.

Connect

38.

Measure on

A

with a straight

this line

line.

Mark

from A, Y2 of an inch.

this

point U.

U

and B with a

39.

Connect

40.

Measure from U, ij^

41.

Find a point half way between

curve E-H.

Mark

Measure from V, ij^

C on

Place point line

E

W-V. Draw

45.

Measure

46.

Place point

V.

and the other end of

line.

Mark

inches.

the chart at

X

X.

this point

D

to

this point

Y.

and allow point

curve.

to the right of T,

D

this point

W.

W and V with a straight

Connect

43.

44.

Mark

inches.

this point

42.

touch

straight line.

1

Mark

inch.

on the chart at S and draw curve through

Y. 47.

Y

and X.

Mark

this

to the right of Z, J^ of

an inch.

Mark

this

to the right of a,

Mark

Find a point half way between

point Z. 48.

point

Measure a.

49.

Measure

50.

Place point

curve through 51

G-b.

G

and continue

Place point

Draw

C

1

inch.

this point b.

on the chart at b, and with curve to

Armhole

C-F draw

line.

C on the chart at a and allow

D

to touch

curve

curve.

52.

Measure

53.

Place point

to the left of

T

ij^ inches.

A on the chart at

c

Mark

this point c.

and draw curve through

S.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

166

Place point

54-

curve through

to

C on

From

56.

Measure from

Mark

point

and d with a straight

58.

Measure up from d on

Mark

6 for full form.

59.

Find on the

this point at

U

E

line.

line d-e, 8 inches for slender form,

this point

tape-line,

f.

3^ of the Waist measure.

U

and measure from

then from a to Y.

this point d.

e.

Connect

e

Mark

inches.

on curve J-0 the same distance as

57.

and

R and with curve C-F draw-

R measure to the right 3

55.

W.

the chart at

c.

to V, then

from

Place

X

to b,

Place the point on the tape-line which

falls

at Y, at point c and with the rest of the Waist measure, measure

Mark where

towards R. 60.

From

this point to

the end of the tape-line

R is

the

falls.

amount which must be taken In

out in the dart to bring the coat in to the desired measure. this case it is 5 inches. 61.

Measure from d on curve R-c the amount

in the dart. 62.

Place

Mark this point g. point B on the chart

at

f

to be taken out

and draw curve through

g.

TO FORM SKIRT OF COAT

63.

Continue

line

64.

Connect

U

down as long as the

A-B below

A

coat

is

Mark

5 inches.

and h with a straight

line.

this point h.

Continue

line

to be.

V and X. Mark this point

65.

Find a point half way between

66. 67.

At i square a line with line A-T. Measure from i on this line 5 inches.

68.

Connect

i.

lines

down

to

j

with

bottom

Mark

this point

V and with X by straight lines.

j.

Continue

of coat.

69.

Find a point half way between a and

70.

At k square a line with line A-T. Measure from k on this line 5 inches.

b.

Mark

this

point

k.

71.

Mark

this point

1.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING Connect

72. line

down

with a and with b by a straight

1

Continue

line.

the length of the coat.

Continue

73.

i6j

T

S-T below

line

Mark

5 inches.

this

point

m.

Y

Connect

74.

down

m

with

by a

straight line

and continue

line

the length of coat.

75.

Measure

76.

Place point

77.

Square a

to the right of

F on

m,

1

Mark

inch.

the chart at c and

this point n.

draw curve through

n.

Draw

line

from d to

g.

line the length of the coat.

Measure down from R,

78.

R

g with the straight

line at

with

79.

Square a

80.

Measure from o on

line

line

5 inches.

Q-R

at

Mark

this point o.

o.

this line

J^ of an inch more than from

Mark this point p. Draw a straight line from d

through p and continue down

to d. 81.

the length of the coat.

This forms the skirt of the coat, making a coat of

The

fullness.

Draw

worn.

must be governed by the more or

fullness

the lines from the hips down,

medium

coats

being

less slanting

as desired.

The

coat, as it

is,

comes together

just

in front.

We must add

something for lap for buttons and buttonholes. 82.

inches. 83.

inches. 84.

line

Q-R and measure from F

2

square a line with line

Q-R and measure from R,

2

At F square a

Mark At

R

line

with

this point q.

Mark this point r. Draw a line through q and P-Q out

85.

Continue

86.

Measure down from

line

Q

and

87.

Connect

88.

Measure from

tance. 89.

Mark

t

to q-r.

JÂŁ of

an

Mark inch.

with a straight

on

this point

Mark

s.

this

point

t.

line.

line t-q, 8 inches, or

any desired

dis-

this point u.

Continue

this point v.

t

s,

r the full length of coat.

line

J-N

until it touches the neck curve.

Mark


Snrfle

J.W.J T»*H-* m,V *

Co ^-


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING Measure down from v on the neck curve, 3^

90.

169

inch.

Mark

this point w.

Connect

91.

w

and u with a straight

line.

This forms the

Lapel.

to draft the collar

92.

Measure from

on the shoulder curve, Y% inch.

Mark

this point x.

93.

Place point

94.

Extend

measures.

D on the chart at v and draw curve through x.

this

Mark

curve beyond x as

much

this point y.

96.

Connect y and x with a straight line. Square a line with this line at y.

97.

Measure on

98.

Measure

95.

as the back neck

this line

from

y,

2^ inches. Mark

this point

z.

to the right

from

z,

J^ inch.

Mark

this point

aa. 99.

100. 101.

Measure from y on line y-z 1 inch. Connect aa and bb with a straight Square a

line

with

Mark

this point bb.

line.

line w-u, so that it will

run through

point Q. 102.

103.

Measure from Q, iJi inches. Mark this point cc. Place point B on the chart at aa and draw curve through

cc.

104.

bb.

Place point

C on

the chart at v and draw curve through


LESSON XXXVII LOOSE-FITTING UNLINED COAT

Measures used

i.

2.

for this draft

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Neck measure

13

Armbole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure Length from back of neck bottom of coat Length from front of neck, bottom of coat

17

inches

40

inches

14

inches

7^

inches

inches

i$}4 inches

straight

down back

straight

down

11X

inches

16

inches

58^

inches

$5H

inches

to

front to

Draw

line A-B length of back to waist line. From A measure on line A-B Under Arm measure. Mark

this point C.

m ch.

3.

From B measure up Y2

4.

At

5.

From

6.

Place point

on the chart at B, and draw curve through

7.

At C square a

line

8.

From C measure on

D

Mark

this point

D.

square a line with A-D.

D

on

this line

1%

measure

inches.

Mark

this point

E.

E.

with

line

A-B.

this line

Y2 of Bust measure.

Mark

this point F. 9.

From C on

Mark

this point

10.

At

G

line

C-F measure

Y of Back Width measure.

G.

square a line with line C-F. 171


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

172 ii.

Mark

Measure from

G

on

this line

-J

of

Armhole measure.

H.

this point

12.

Continue the

13.

Place point

above

line

H i%

inches.

Mark

this point

I.

H.

D

Extend curve Y2 14. 15.

16.

Mark

E

on the chart at

and draw curve through

m ch beyond H.

At I square a line with line G-I. From I on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point J. From G on line C-F measure 34 of Armhole measure. K.

this point

17.

Find a point half way between

18.

At

19.

Place point

G and K. Mark this point

L.

K square a line with line C-F. G on

Mark

this point

the chart at end of curve

M.

E-H and draw

curve through L. 20.

Place point

O

21

Place point

F on

22.

Continue

23.

From J on

on the chart at

M and draw curve through

L. the chart at

M and draw curve through

j-

full

line I- J to the left. this line

length of curve E-H.

24.

Square a

25.

From

measure

less

line

measure the same distance as the

Mark

this point

with line C-F so that

N.

it will

pass through N.

C-F, measure on this line the Upper Front

line

what

is

used in the back neck.

Mark

this point

O. 26.

Place point

27.

From

D

and draw curve through

on the chart at

j-

measure down Y2

of

Neck measure.

Mark

this

point P. 28.

29.

At P square a line with line O-P. Measure from P on this line 1-3

34 inch. 30.

O.

Mark

of

Neck measure,

plus

this point Q.

Place point J on the chart at

Q

and draw curve through


Loose

Fi\\iy\ยง

Uy\line3 Coa-f.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

174 31.

Draw

32.

Find a point half way between

Q

straight line from

through F.

K

and L.

Mark

this

point R.

At

33. 34.

R

square a line with line C-F.

Measure on

Mark

Arm

measure.

Mark

this point

from R, the Under

this line

this point S.

Measure

35.

to the left of S,

% of an inch.

T.

Draw

36.

down

Measure down from

37.

Q

on

U

38.

At

39.

Measure on

T

and continue

it

from

this line

Connect point

40.

N

the length you wish

U.

this point

V

U

4 inches, for the lap of the

Mark

this point V.

and a point on the neck curve opposite

with a straight

line.

U

Measure down from

41.

Q-F

line

square a line with line Q-U.

coat in front (double-breasted).

point

through

Mark

your coat to open in the neck.

point

R

a straight line from

the length of the coat.

any convenient

distance.

Mark

W.

W square a with W on

42.

At

43.

Measure from

line

Q-W.

line

this line

mcn

Y2

Mark this point X. Draw a straight line from V down the length of coat. Point Y.

l

ess

than from

U to

V.

through

44.

45.

Continue

The

line

line

A-B down

R-T forms

X

and continue

the length of coat.

the under

arm

line for

both front and

back. If

of

more

%

of

fullness is desired,

measure

an inch, and measure

%

of

1

inch from S to T, instead

an inch to the right of

S.

Draw lines from R through these points. These coats are usually made up without a collar or with a large sailor collar. The sleeves may be made a medium sized flowing sleeve or the regulation coat sleeve.


LESSON XXXVIII THE SLIGHTLY FITTED COAT

Measures used

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

for draft given

Waist measure Neck measure Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure -Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure

26

20

2.

inches inches

14

7K

inches

15K

inches

11^4 inches

16

Draw A-B length of back. From A measure the Under Arm

1.

inches

\$yi inches 16 inches

inches

Mark

measure.

this

point C. 3.

Measure above B, Y2

4.

At

5.

From

D

Mark

inch.

this point

D.

square a line with line A-D.

D

on

this line

measure

1%

inches.

Mark

this point

E. 6.

At C square a

7.

Measure from C on

line

with

line

A-B.

Bust measure.

Mark

this

C-F measure the Back Width.

Mark

this

this line the

point F.

From C on

8.

line

point G.

At

9.

10.

Mark 11.

H.

G

square a line with line C-F.

Measure from this point

G

on

this line 1-3 of

Armhole measure.

H.

Place point

D

on the chart at

Extend curve Y% inch beyond H. 175

E and draw

curve through


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

176 12.

Extend

13.

At

14.

From

G-H

line

H

above

ij^ inches.

Mark

this point

Mark

this point

I.

I square a line I

on

with line G-I.

this line

measure

2

inches.

j15.

Mark 16.

G

Measure from this point

on

line

C-F 34 the Armhole measure.

K.

K

Find a point half way between

and G.

Mark

this

point L.

K square a line with line C-F. K on this line 2Y2 inches.

17.

At

18.

Measure from

Mark

this point

of curve

E-H and

M. 19.

Place point

G

on the chart at the end

draw curve through L. on the chart at

M and draw curve through

20.

Place point

21.

Place point

22.

Measure curve E-H and measure the same distance from

L.

F on

the chart at

M and draw curve through

j-

J.

Mark 23.

this point

Square a

N.

line

with

line

C-F

so that it will pass through

point N. 24.

Measure from

ure, less 25.

what

is

line

C-F on

this line the

Upper Front meas-

Mark

used in the back neck.

this point 0.

Measure down from 0, /i the Neck measure. x

Mark

this

point P. 26. 27.

At P square a line with Measure from P on this

line

0-P.

line 1-6 of

Neck measure. Mark

this point Q.

N on

28.

Place point

29.

Draw

30.

Measure from

the chart at

and draw curve through

Q-

a line from

Q

Q

on

through F. this line the

Front Length.

point R. 31.

At L, square a

line

with

line

F-C.

Mark

this


.

PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

L

Measure from

32.

Mark

on

this line the

177

Under Arm measure.

this point S.

A

33.

Connect S and

34.

Measure from A,

with a straight 1-3 the distance

line.

A to S. Mark this

from

point T. 35. 36.

Measure Y2 inch to the left of T. Mark this point U. Find a point half way between E and the end of curve

E-H. Mark

this point V.

37.

Connect

U and V with a straight line.

38.

Measure

to the left of

C on

39. Place point

U-V.

line

Draw

U,

Y inch. Mark this point W. W and allow curve to touch

the chart at

curve.

40.

Measure

41.

Place point

to the right of S, Y2 inch-

C on

the chart at

Mark

L and draw

X.

this point

curve through

X. 42.

Measure

to the left of S,

43. Place point 44.

B on

Measure from

R

1

chart at

inch.

Mark

L and draw

1-3 the distance

from

this point

Y.

curve through Y.

R to Y. Mark this

point Z.

45

Measure from

Mark

O.

E to V, and measure this same distance from

this point a.

46.

Connect a and Z with a straight

47.

Find out how much should be taken out on the dart to

line.

bring the coat in tight to the waist and take out about 2-3 of this

amount.

48.

Draw

Mark

this point b.

a straight line from b to the point where b'ne

C-F

crosses line a-Z.

z.

49.

Continue

line

Q-R below A

6 inches.

50.

Measure from

c square over

Y2 inch more than from

Mark 51.

52.

with

R to

this point d.

Connect d and Z by a straight

line.

Connect Z and b with a straight

line

and square a

line

this line at b.

53.

Measure down 6

54.

Continue

line

inches.

A-B below

Mark

this point e.

a 6 inches.

Mark

this point

f.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

178

Mark

and U.

this

g.

Square a

56.

line at

g with line A-S.

58.

Measure down from g 6 Connect h with U and

59.

Continue

57.

Mark

inches.

W by straight

line

Square a

62.

Measure from F on

this line

63.

Square a

line

on

line

with line

line

this point

i.

X and Y by straight lines.

Connect

61.

i

point h.

this

lines.

Mark

L-S down 6 inches.

60.

Q

W

Find a point half way between

55.

point

with line

with

Q-R Q-R

at F.

Mark

4 inches.

this point

j.

at a point ij^ inches below

Q-R.

64.

Measure from

Q

65.

Connect k and

j

66.

Measure from k on

on

this line 4 inches.

Mark

this

point

k.

with a straight

line.

line k-j 9 inches, or as

wish the coat to open in front.

Mark

this point

Measure down ^2 mcn fr° m where neck curve. Mark this point m. 67.

Connect

68.

m

and

1

with a straight

line

much

as

you

1.

J-N meets the This forms the

line.

LAPEL.

In making the coat lap the fronts so that

on

falls

line

Q-R

line

Q-R

of

one side

of the other.

TO DRAFT THE COLLAR

69.

Mark 70. n.

Measure from

on the shoulder curve

%

an inch.

of

this point n.

Place point

Extend curve

measures.

Mark

D

on the chart at

as

m and draw curve

much beyond n

as the

back

through

of the

neck

this point o.

71.

Square a

72.

Measure from o on

line at o

with a straight this

line

line

from n

ij^ inches.

to o.

Mark

this

point p. 73. q-

Continue the

line

x up from p \ /l

inches.

Mark

this point


SliqlU)!

Fitte*

C'*h


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

180

m '

74.

Measure

75.

Measure from k

76.

Place point

77.

Place point

to the right of

q 34 inch.

2% inches. Mark

Mark

this point r.

this point

s.

D on the chart at m and draw curve through s. D on the chart at p and draw curve through

(break of collar.) 78.

Square a

line

with

79.

Measure from

80.

Square a

81.

Measure from

82.

Place point

83.

Place point

line

s

on

line

m-1 so that

it

this line 2 inches.

passes through

Mark

s.

this point t,

with line m-1 at m.

m on this line 2^ inches.

Mark

this

point

u.

B on F on

chart at r and chart at

t

draw curve through

u.

and draw curve through

u.


LESSON XXXIX HOW

TO MAKE AND FINISH THE TAILORED COAT

We have taught you how to draft the coat. atively easy thing, but to

make

difficult things the dressmaker

you

is

the coat

called

you

follow our directions carefully

After

having made your

draft,

upon will

make

were taught to do in making the gowns.

This

is

a compar-

one of the most

is

However,

to do.

have

if

trouble.

little

a pattern, just as you

Lay

goods, having the wrong side of the goods up.

the pattern on the If the

goods has a

Be sure to have the waist line of THE STRAIGHT PATTERN OF THE GOODS CROSSWISE. Mark THE ON nap, this should run down.

carefully

all

seams and the waist

where the pockets are to be.

line

Mark

with

tailor's chalk, also

the line which

is

mark

the turn of

the lapel, where the bottom of the coat should be, and for the

buttons and buttonholes.

all

been marked

them with a running stitch, using a contrasting color from the goods. Be very careful

with the chalk, trace on a thread of

After these lines have

to keep exactly

on the

all of

line.

We

are

now ready The

the curve which gives the garment style. give will

be for the fitted coat.

fitted will

A

not need

and the semi-

must always be used in making the The main reason why a dressmaker's coat

has the style of the tailored garment

used by the

tailor is

flat-iron

as hot as

it

we

it.

always pressed with a

nary

loose coat

It is

directions

large tailor's iron

lored garment.

dom

The

and

to shrink

stretch the different parts, to give it the desired curves.

common

is

flat-iron.

because

The

it is

taisel-

nearly

iron which is

never lighter than 15 pounds, while the ordi-

only weighs about 3 or 4 pounds.

can be used without scorching.

Heat the iron

Never use

bare goods and never on the right side of the goods. 181

it

on the

Use a clean


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

182

sponge to dampen the goods and a piece of clean muslin without starch to place between the goods and the iron.

dead

press.

a flat

It

must be hard enough

We

are ready to proceed

ironing-board, not too heavily padded. to give the goods a very

Have

With the wet sponge dampen

with the shrinking and stretching.

a line on each piece, represented in the drawing by letters C, D.

While they are

still

â&#x20AC;&#x17E;any

little

creases are pressed in

This

is all

there

may

seem,

it is

is

it is

smooth under the

very

really difficult

For

this

made.

you must study the form For a very

full

form you

out. it

practice.

to give the desired curve.

which the garment

for

If

but as simple as

and needs considerable

Now we will begin to stretch the seams,

B,

iron.

them

difficult to get

to the shrinking process,

;

Be very

wet, place the iron on them.

careful to have the goods perfectly

A

is

being

need to stretch the seams

will

quite a bit, while for a very slender person they will only be

stretched a very

Take the

arm seam it is

little.

front piece

first.

at the waist line

wet, place

it

Dampen with

and a

little

the sponge the under

above and below.

on the board, and as

it is

as

it

Nov/ dampen the place which comes at the highest

desired.

part of the bust (indicated by a cross on the drawing). this

While

pressed stretch

by moving the

care not to stretch

give nearly

all

that

Stretch

Take great seam will Take the under arm piece and line as you did the front, also

iron about in a small circle.

too much, as the curve of the

it

needed.

is

stretch each edge at the waist

The back

stretch the waist line at point a.

pieces will not

need to be stretched, unless for a very full form, as the back straighter than the front careful to stretch each

We

are

ready now

and does not need

so

much

curve.

is

Be

seam the same amount.

to

sew up the seams.

Sew

the two front

the seams pieces together first. Before beginning to baste, pin between these points at the waist line, then at the shoulder and in ,

more than every few inches, as in basting one side will stretch the other. coat.

Now

Continue the pinning down to the bottom of the rather baste the seam with a running stitch, taking


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

183

Next pin and baste the two back form the same way. The seams next to the middle

small, even stitches.

pieces together in

back seam are usually

for

about 4 or

from the

5 inches

back seam

open instead of the side ones, from the waist

line to the

bottom, is left

open

left

a short jacket. If a long coat, then the

bottom

if it is

When

of the coat.

these seams are left open a piece

be cut on one side of the seam to run under the opening. the front to the under

under arm

to the

arm

piece,

If the

before pressing. shears. If

back parts

Stitch the seams,

dampen and

goods has a nap the seams should be scraped

Scrape against the nap with a dull knife or

This gives a flatter appearance to the seam when pressed.

pockets are put in the coat they must be located with great

No

care.

matter how well the coat

badly located the coat

by

last of all the

each case beginning at the under arm

piece, in

piece and working both ways. press open.

and

must Baste

will look

is

made,

home-made.

practice just where the pocket should be,

locate

if

the pockets are

Until you learn

you

have

will

to

them by placing the garment on the patron and placing

You will soon learn to tell very nearly where they should be. To put in the pocket Place a piece of linen canvas back of the marking for the pocket. Make them where they look the

best.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

a,

smooth

straig ht cut

on the

line of basting.

J about

the goods thus, V

1

Lay one

two pieces are the pocket.

side of the coat, so that the top edge

lower side of the cut.

Have

of the pieces

cord.

on the right

comes just even with the

making a very small seam.

this piece of the pocket through the opening, little of

pieces of

the right side of the goods together.

Stitch across on the machine,

that a

Cut two

inch longer than the cut; these

Push

and turn down so

the pocket shows from the right side, like a small

Stitch across on the right side near the first stitching.

Now make a flap for the pocket. Cut a piece of the goods about 2% inches wide and Y2 inch longer than the opening of the pocket. Turn

the ends in a

little

more than J^ inch, and one long

same amount. Dampen and

press a dead

press.

side the

Fit a piece of

the material to be used for the coat lining to this piece of goods,


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

1 84

turning in

Do

the edges, except the one unfinished side.

all

have the lining come quite to the edge.

Press again without

dampening, and stitch about the three sides so that the

it is

finished should be just the size of the opening.

Place the flap with

against the right side of the

its right side

above the opening, so that

coat,

its

with the upper side of the opening. small seam.

stitch-

This finishes the flap for the pocket.

ing will catch the lining.

The flap when

not

Turn the

flap

unfinished edge Stitch across,

down over

is

just even

making a

very-

the opening, and turn the

seam up and baste on the outside near the

Put

first stitching.

Now

the right side of this piece against the right side of the coat.

lay the other piece of the pocket on the wrong side of the coat so that the straight side

on

this basting,

The two

over.

of the other.

is

just

above

them together

The

so they will not rip.

of finishing the pocket.

many

in a flat seam.

This

There are

is

many

the most

Keep your

the canvas in the coat.

weight cotton canvas, which goods

is

is

on the ironing-board.

dry.

side

may

The canvas must be

and spread over

Turn

you

it.

If the

coat

is

made

be lined with a light

be bought at any dry goods

firm and heavy this interlining need not

used by dressmakers for flat

eyes open and

of them.

Now we must put

be used.

common way

fancy ways to be found

of rather light goods, the entire coat should

If the

on top

Stitch twice

front edge of the flap should always

on the ready-made garments.

store.

Turn the coat

pieces which form the pocket will He one

Stitch

follow the front edge of the coat.

will learn

this last basting; stitch

being careful to catch the pocket.

tailor's

canvas, and not the kind

Spread the canvas many purposes. Wet a large piece of muslin very wet

Iron with a very hot iron until the cloth

the canvas over and place the wet cloth on this

and press dry.

Remove

the cloth and press the canvas

Spread the canvas on the cutting-table and put the pattern on it. Trace the shape shown in the drawing, until thoroughly dry.

remove the pattern and cut

out. In cutting this piece the length-

wise threads of the canvas should follow the edge of the coat.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

185

Slash the edge of the canvas in about 1Y2 inches where

over the most prominent part of the bust, half

neck and armhole at the shoulder seam, and about the shoulder seam in the neck.

baste pieces of canvas back of together again. of the bust

Dampen

comes

it

way between 2

the

inches from

Stretch these slashes open and

them

so that they cannot

come

the canvas where the prominent part

comes and stretch

to

Two

form the proper shape.

of

these pieces should be prepared, one for each side of the coat.

Baste them into place, having the edge of the canvas come even

Cut the canvas back about J4 of an inch from the cloth. Now we must pad the lapels with the

with the coat. the edge of

padding

stitch.

Begin at the

gether.

line for the

Take the

turn of the lapel.

so that

it

shows on the right

Completely

side.

the lapel

rill

As the

with stitches, done in rows following the line of turning.

work is done cause the it

to turn

lapel to

have a

more gracefully and give

vide yourself with some stay tape.

putting is

it

on rather

tightly.

Do

This

will

cause

style to the garment.

Pro-

slight curl.

Fasten

about the edge,

this

not allow the stitches where

Dampen and

fastened to show on the right side.

Now

to-

through the canvas and into the goods, but not through

stitches it

These stitches should be short and near

sew up the shoulder seams, without catching

it

press dry.

in the canvas.

Press with a dead press and allow the canvas to he flat over the

seam.

Cut two

pieces of the goods the

for a facing of the coat.

same shape

as the canvas,

Baste the edges of the facing to the

edges of the coat, having the right side of the facing against the Stitch the edges as near the stay tape as

right side of the coat. possible.

Turn

and baste the edges

together,

making a

sure that the corner of the lapel

good shaped corner. finished

wrong

the facing over on the

is

straight,

Roll the lapel over as

Fold

for the interlining,

this

it

it

should

Cut a piece

Be

makes a

roll

line of turning.

the back edge of the facing to the coat.

inches wide.

even edge.

pulled out so that

and baste the facing along the

canvas which was used

side of the coat

when Baste

of the light

on the bias, about

1^/2

through the center lengthwise and baste


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

186

the turned edge along the thread where the coat

about the bottom. will stay exactly

Use short

is

to turn

up

stitches in basting this so that it

Turn

on the thread.

the goods

up on

this

canvas, being sure to turn on the exact line for the bottom.

We are ready to put on

Have

seams everywhere.

and cut two goods,

two

mark

Trace

the collar.

draft on another piece of paper

the collar from the

out, allowing

mcn

}/[

the right sides of the goods together

Before raising the pattern from the

pieces together.

the back seam.

Stitch this, open

pieces of canvas on the bias

the back

off

and cut

by

the

and

same pattern.

seam and press open. Lay the back seam

Cut

press.

of the

Stitch

canvas

on the back seam of the goods, having the canvas on the wrong Baste the canvas and the cloth together

side of the goods.

Cut the canvas away from the outside edge and

thoroughly.

at the ends about 34 inch.

Fasten the canvas to the goods with

a padding stitch, stretching the goods a

canvas, so that the collar will

roll as it

The padding should be done from is

little

should

tighter than the

when on

the canvas side.

the coat.

After this

thoroughly done, stitch the collar with straight rows of stitch-

ing until the point

reached where the collar turns.

is

From

this

point to the outer edge stitch with a row of zig-zag stitching extending the full length of the collar. Thus -

Cut another piece from the goods by the same pattern but having no seam in the back.

Lay

the back edge of the pattern

x inch on the Allow about /i Baste pieces. as did on the other and allow seams you neck edge

on

fold of the

goods length- wise.

this piece to the collar

of the

goods together.

you have prepared, having the right

and the outside edge, near the edge collar so that

sides

Stitch on the machine along the two ends of the canvas.

Turn the

both sides are of the goods and the canvas

is

tween. Baste along the edge, making a smooth even, edge.

be-

Pin

the back seam of the collar, leaving the outside piece of the goods loose, to the

back seam

of the coat.

Have

collar against the right side of the coat.

the under side of the

Pin the neck edge of


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

way from

the collar each

that the ends of the collar

the seam to the neck of the coat so

come

at point

stitch

on the machine.

Q on

Dampen and press open,

taking great

Bring the right side of the collar

care not to spoil the curve.

over smoothly and baste along the line of turning.

on over a

is

to the

You

neck seam, and baste.

seam where the facing and the

little

which

is

it will

follow the

1%

the draft, or

Baste this seam firmly

inches from the point of the lapels.

and

187

Bring

it

will find that there

collar

meet at each end,

Bring the seam together neatly so that

not stitched.

seam underneath

it

and blind

stitch with very

Stitch all about the edge of the coat about J4 inch from the edge. Be very careful when you stitch about the

small stitches.

and collar

lapels

We

to turn

are ready

the lining

Cut the

%

of

now

to line the coat.

same

Cut the back pieces

of

an inch larger than the pattern at the back seam.

side pieces the

pieces the

good square corners.

same

Cut the front

as the pattern.

as the pattern, but

when you

side

cut the front pieces,

lay a plait in the goods about the center of the shoulder seam

and about

1

inch deep at the shoulder seam, allowing

out to nothing as

it

comes down to the bust.

but the shoulder and under arm seams.

to taper

Allow enough to

turn in where the lining comes on to the front facing. all

it

Stitch

Baste the back seam to the back seam of the coat.

Baste up

and

press.

Baste

all

about the armholes and at the shoulder and under arm seams.

Turn

in the

armholes.

neck and baste down.

Turn

in the shoulder

the back shoulder seams.

seams and baste down

Turn

baste flat to the back portion.

Baste the fronts in about the

in

flat to

the under arm seam and

Turn

baste to the back edge of the facing.

in

down

Turn up

the front and all

about the

bottom, keeping the lining away from the edge of the coat about 1-8 of

an

inch.

Now hem

the shoulder seams, the under

arm

down the front, about the bottom and about the neck. The coat is all finished now but the sleeves. Cut the pattern and the sleeves from the goods just as you did

seams,

.for

the dress sleeve.

Baste up and try on.

Get the exact length


Colt

Showing where

a*J skYtyiTfiTif

| C

a>\vas

is

2"K

$}retchi*f

3oiie, a Xj>

|^^*nh

y>iecc


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING and run a thread marking where the

up the

inside

Open Cut a

seam and press open.

spread the sleeves out on the table.

canvas

3^

sleeve

is

to turn.

the other

Stitch

seam and

piece of the tailor's

inches wide and cover one edge

cotton lining material cut on the bias.

189

with a piece of

Baste the piece of can-

vas to the sleeve so that the covered edge just follows the line

where the sleeve

is

Baste the canvas to the sleeve

to turn up.

thoroughly and stitch up the outside seam of the sleeve. open.

Turn up the

pattern, stitch

seams together. sleeve about

1

sleeve at the hand.

up and

press.

Turn the

lining

lining

up

at the

hand and hem

inch from the edge of the sleeve.

up over the seam.

by the same

Place inside of the sleeve and the

to the coat without catching the lining. lining

Cut a

Press

Turn

in

Sew

Stitch in

to the

the sleeves

and bring the

and hem down.


.

LESSON XL THE CHILD'S DRAFT

The measures

used are of a child 3 years of age.

Bust measure

9K

Waist measure Armhole measure Front Length measure Back Length measure Under Arm measure Upper Front measure Back Width measure

i.

Draw

2.

Measure from

Mark

line

inches

24

Neck measure

A-B

inches

23

inches

13

inches

10

inches

9

inches

4K inches &}i inches 8

inches

length of back.

A

on

line

A-B

the Under

Arm

measure.

this point C.

A-B above B 34

3.

Continue

4.

At

5.

From

6.

At C square a

7.

Measure from C on

line

Mark

inch.

this point

D D

square a line with line A-B.

D

measure on

this line

ij^ inches.

Mark

this

point

E. line

with

line

this line

A-B. J^ of Bust measure.

Mark

this

point F.

From C on

8.

Mark

line

C-F measure Y2 the Back Width measure.

this point G.

9. At G square a line. 10. Measure on this line from Mark this point H. 11

H.

Place point

Extend curve

G 1-3

D

on the chart at

}/%

inch beyond H. 191

E

of

Armhole measure.

and draw a curve through


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

192 12.

Continue

13.

At

G-H above

line

H ij^ inches.

Mark

this point

I.

I square a line with line G-I.

14. From I measure on this line 2 inches. Mark this point J. 15. From G on line C-F measure to the left J^ of Armhole measure. Mark this point K. 16. Find a point half way between K and G. Mark this point

L.

At K square a Measure from

17. 18.

with

line

K

on

C-F.

line

Mark

this line 2 inches.

this point

M.

G

Place point

19.

draw

line

20.

on the chart at the end

of curve

E-H and

touching line G-H.

Place point

K

on the chart at

this point

and draw curve

through L. 21.

Place point

K on the chart at M and draw curve through

22.

Place point

F on

23.

Measure the

L. the chart at

M and draw curve through

j-

same distance from J on 24. 25.

Measure from

ure, less

what

is

line I-J

with line C-F so that

Square a

line

E-H and measure the continued. Mark this point N.

length of curve

full

C-F on

line

this line the

D

on the chart at

Place point

27.

Measure down from

pass through N.

Upper Front meas-

Mark

used in the back neck.

26.

it will

this point O.

and draw curve through

j-

Mark

34

this point

At P square a

29.

Measure from P on

Mark

line

line

with

line

34 of Neck measure.

O-N.

this line 1-6 of

Neck measure and add

this point Q.

30.

Place point J on the chart at

31.

Draw

32.

Measure from

Mark

O-N

P.

28.

inch.

on

a line from

this point

R.

Q

Q

Q and draw

curve through O.

through F.

on

this line the

Front Length measure.


CteUa* $»i\t


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

194 33.

At L square a

line

34.

Measure from

L

Mark

with line C-F.

on

this line the

Under

Arm

measure.

this point S.

A and

35.

Connect

36.

Connect S and

37.

Find out how much too large the Waist measure

this case it

38.

of S.

is

a straight

line.

line. is.

In

1% inches.

Measure

Mark

S with a straight

R with

half this distance to left of S

these points

T and

and

half to right

U.

39.

Place point

B

on the chart at

L and draw

curve through

40.

Place point

B

on the chart at

L and draw

curve through

T.

U. In cutting out allow

all

seams.


LESSON XLI

Measures used

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

for draft given

Arm Arm

Length measure Length to elbow Armhole measure Hand measure

i.

2.

Draw A-B length of Arm. From A measure length of Arm

to

bend

of

8

inches

4

inches

13

inches

6

inches

Elbow. Point C.

7.

A-B. At A square a line with At B square a line with line A-B. At C square a line with line A-B. Measure from B on line, Y2 inch. Mark this point D. Measure from C, 34 inch. Mark this point E.

8.

Measure

9.

Place point

3. 4. 5.

6.

10.

line

Connect

n. Measure 12.

Measure

measure.

Mark

to the left of A, Y2 inch.

E

D

E

on the chart at

and

D

and draw curve

with a straight

to the right of

D,

1

this point

inch.

Mark

G.

H.

Mark this point I. Mark this point

Measure

14.

Extend

15.

Measure

16.

Measure from A, the Armhole measure.

to the right of

A-B

this point

more than the Hand

13.

line

to F.

line.

to the right of G, 2 inches

Mark

this point F.

H,

1

inch.

above A, ij^ inches.

j-

to the right of J,

3^2

inch.

Mark

this point

Mark

K.

this

point L. 17.

Measure

to the left of L, 4 inches.

18.

Measure

to the left of L,

i% inches.

*95

Mark this point M. Mark this point N.


ChiJJs'

Sleeve


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

At

19.

meet

it.

20.

At

197

M square a line with line A-L and extend line J-K to Point 0.

K

0-K and mark where

square a line with line

it

touches line A-L, P. 21.

Place point

D

L and draw

on the chart at

curve to

I.

Place point J on the chart at F and draw curve through K. 23. Place point F on the chart at O and draw curve to N. 22.

F on

N and

24.

Place point

25. "

Find a point half way between

26.

With

the chart at

continue curve to L.

P and M. Mark

this point

Q-

Q

as a center

and a radius Q-K draw curve from ?

K

to 0. 27.

Find a point half way between

28..

Square a

D

and

I.

Mark

this point

R.

from R, Yz 29.

D

and 30.

line at

inch.

Place point

R with line D-I

Mark

D

and measure on

this line

this point S.

on the chart at

S,

and draw curves through

I.

Gather the sleeve from

Also from

K

to 0.

1

inch from

D

to 1 inch

from

I.


LESSON XLII child's coat sleeve

Measures used Arm Length Arm Length

for draft given

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

measure

8

inches

to elbow

4

inches

13

inches

Hand measure

6

inches

Elbow measure

8

inches

Armhole measure

i.

Draw A-B

2.

Measure from

Mark

Elbow. 3.

length of Arm.

A

on

line

A-B length

of

Arm

to

bend of

this point C.

Square a

with

line

4.

Measure from

5.

Place point

D

line

C on

A-B, at C.

this line

Y inch.

on the chart at

D

Mark

this point

and draw curves

to

D.

A

and B. 6.

Square a

7.

Measure from

this point 8.

line at

B

with line A-B.

B on

this line

Yi the

Hand

measure.

Mark

this point I.

Mark

H.

Measure

to the right of

H YL inch.

9. At I square a line with line B-I. 10. Measure from I on this line Y2 inch. Mark n. Connect J and B with a straight line.

this point J.

13.

Measure from J on this line Y2 inch. Mark this point K. Measure from D Yl of Elbow measure. Mark this point

14.

Measure

12.

E.

points

F and

to the left

and right

of

E

Y inch.

Mark

these

G.

15. Place point

F on

the chart at

K. 199

F and draw

curve through


ChilJs' Sleeve.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 1 6.

Place point

17.

Measure

F on

Mark

L and B

Connect

19.

At

20.

Measure from A on Measure to the Continue

23.

At At

24.

25.

where

it

N

meets

M3

inches. inch.

1

Mark this point N. Mark this point 0,

Place point

M

with

D

N

line

F

and mark point P,

A-M

and mark point Q,

with a straight

on the chart at on

F on F on

line

as a center

line.

G and

draw curve

0-Q /l inch. Mark x

R

the chart at

P and draw

and

all

and draw curve

R.

to A.

curve to S,

Continue curve to A.

N-R

as a radius

R-Q. In cutting pattern allow

to Q.

this point

the chart at

inch to the right of A.

Use

A-M

from 0.

Measure from

29. Place point

31.

left of

line at

line

Connect P and

is 1

Mark

from 0.

line

Place point

30.

it

line.

Y% of Armhole measure.

this line

square a line with line

meets

27.

which

with a straight

A-B above A,

line

26.

28.

make

square a line with line B-0.

Square a it

to

square a line with line A-B.

22.

where

F-K

M.

this point 21.

to line

this point L.

18.

A

and draw curve through

G-J and add enough

line

the same length.

G

the chart at

201

seams.

and draw curve


LESSON XLIII child's rompers

The rompers

given are for a child of 3 years. for the child's waist.

Use the same draft as

2.

Add Add

line

W-V.

1.

inch

1

down

the back line, S-T-U.

inches to the bottom of the back waist portion,

2

3.

Add

4.

Leave out

5.

For the back neck, measure from

1

inch to the front line X-Y-Z. lines

To draft the down below S, L-S 6.

7.

Measure

L-U and L-T

of the waist draft. S, 2 inches.

trousers part of the rompers

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Continue

line

5 inches.

to the right of the

end of

this line J/ÂŁ inch.

Mark

this point a. 8.

Connect a-S with a straight

9.

Continue

line

X-Y-Z below

line.

Z,

12}^ inches.

Mark

this

point b. 10.

Mark

At b square a line with line Z-b and draw 22^ inches long. this point c.

Mark this point d. Mark this point

11.

Measure from b on

12.

Measure from b on

13.

Place point J on the chart at e and draw curve through

14.

At c square a line with line c-e. Measure from c on this line, 1

line b-Z, 3 inches. line b-c, 3 inches.

e.

d.

inch. Mark this point f. Draw a line from e through f and continue 5 inches beyond Mark this point g. 17. Measure from U on line U-T ij^ inches. Mark this point 15.

16. f.

203


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

D

205

on the chart at S and draw curve through

18.

Place point

19.

Continue curve

1

20.

Connect g and

with a straight

21.

Measure from g on line g-i 5 inches. Mark this point j. Place point J on the chart at f and draw curve through

h.

22.

i

inch beyond

J-

In cutting pattern allow

all

seams.

i.

line.


LESSON XLIV HOW Trace

on

off

TO CUT AND FINISH THE ROMPERS another piece of paper the front

down

allowing seams everywhere except

Trace

off

portion,

the front line X-Y-Z-d.

the back, allowing seams everywhere except

down

the back line S-U-V, where ij£ inches should be allowed.

Cut on

line S-a.

The amount wide,

2 1-8

of

This

the pattern for the

is

Rompers.

— 27 inches

goods required for the Rompers

yards; 36 inches wide, \Yi yards; 44 inches wide, ij^

yards.

To

cut from the goods

— Lay

line

X-Y-Z on a

fold of the

goods lengthwise and cut the front portion.

Trace

before you raise the pattern from the goods.

Lay

the double goods, having line

W-V

on the straight

all

seams

the back on of the

goods

cross-wise.

Sew Sew

line d-e to line

f-j.

seam

the shoulder

of each

back

to the shoulder

seam of

each front.

Sew

line

L-S of each back

Face each

to line

L-S

of the fronts.

with a continuous facing.

side, line S-a,

facing on the back under for a

hem and

Turn the

leave the front project-

ing for an under lap.

Sew

line

Gather

i-j

of

one side to

line i-s

the back, and face

Turn

i-j

of the other.

of each side so that it fits it

in the edges

on to

line

S-U

of

with a straight facing about 1 J^ inches wide.

down

the back

1

inch after having turned in

the raw edge and stitch. Finish the neck square or round, with either a bias band of the

goods put on the right side or with embroidery insertion.

Sew buttons and work buttonholes down 207

the back.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

Work

buttonholes along line

S-i

209

and place buttons along

S-U.

Put a

half -inch

hem

in the

bottom

of each leg

in the hems, just the size of the child's leg,

For the sleeve use the Child's Full Sleeve Draft.

hand with a

Make back

straight

band

and run

but not

elastic

tight.

Finish at the

or insertion.

a belt ij^ inches wide and fasten along the top of the

of the trousers part

and bring it around

in front

and button.

TO DRAFT THE DIFFERENT SIZES

Take the measure of the child for the waist part and draft the same as the Child's Waist Draft. For the leg part, for each size larger

add

1

inch to the length of the leg from waist line

down.

Add Yz

inch to the length of line Z-d and

I-j.


LESSON XLV BOY'S RUSSIAN BLOUSE SUIT

To

take the measures for Blouse

Bust measure plus

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

2 inches.

Neck measure. Waist measure plus 2 inches. Armhole measure. Front Length to waist line. Back Length to waist line. Upper Front measure. Front Length from neck to knee less 2 inches. Back Length from neck to knee less 2 inches. Back Width measure. Plus 1 inch.

Measures used

for this draft

Bust

26

Neck

inches

q}ÂŁ inches

Waist

25

inches

Armhole

13

inches

Front to waist

10

inches

Back to waist Upper Front Back Width

9

inches

%]4 inches 9

Front Length to knee

Back Length

to knee

inches

20

inches

19

inches

THE BLOUSE i. 2.

Draw line A-B length of back to waist line. From A measure the Under Arm measure.

Mark

this

point C. 3.

Continue

4.

Square

line

line at

A-B above B,

D

with

line

JH>

A-D.

211

inch.

Mark

this point

D.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

212

5.

D

Measure from

on

this line

i^

inches.

Mark

this point

E. 6. 7.

Mark

Measure from C 3^ of Bust measure. Mark this point F. Measure from C on line C-F J^ the Back Width measure. ;

this point G.

At G square a line with line C-F. 9. From G measure on this line 1-3 Mark this point H. 8.

10.

D

Place point

on the chart at

H, continue Y2 mcn beyond H. 11. Continue line G-H above

H

E

the Armhole measure.

and draw curve through

ij^ inches.

Mark

this point

I.

12.

At

13.

From From

14.

Mark 15.

with

I square a line I

on

G

on

this point

line

line G-I.

measure

this line

Mark

2 inches.

this point J.

C-F measure 34 the Armhole measure.

K.

Find a point half way between

G

and K.

Mark

this

point L. 16.

17.

K square a line with line C-F. Measure from K on this line 2 inches. At

Mark

this point

M. 18.

Place point

G

on the chart at the end of curve

draw curve touching 19.

K

Place point

touches line

line

E-H and

G-H.

on the chart at the point where curve

G-H and draw

20.

Place point

G

21.

Place point

F on

22.

Find the

at

curve through L.

M and draw curve through L. the chart at M and draw curve through

j-

distance from J on line I-J 23.

Square a

24.

Measure on

E-H and continued. Mark

length of curve

full

line

with

line

C-F

so that

measure

this

this point

it will

same

N.

pass through

N. measure O.

less

what

this is

line

from

line

C-F the Upper Front

used in the back neck.

Mark

this

point


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

D

and draw curve through

on the chart at

25.

Place point

26.

Measure down from

213

j-

J^ of Neck measure.

Mark

this

point P. 27.

28.

Add

At P square a line with line O-P. Measure from P on this line 1-6

x

/i inch.

29.

Mark

of the

Neck measure.

this point Q.

Q

and draw curve through

this line the

Front Length measure to

Place point J on the chart at

O. 30.

Draw

31.

Measure from

waist 32. 33.

Mark 34.

Mark 35.

knee. 36.

knee.

Mark

line.

this

point

through F.

on

this point

R.

Measure

S.

inch to the right and

1

these points

T

Mark

this point

Measure from

Mark

Draw The The

inch to the

left of S.

Q

of

back

to 2 inches

above

W. the

full

length of front to

2

inches above

this point V.

Connect

to line from

1

and U.

Measure down from B the length

38.

40.

Q

At L square a line with line C-F. Measure from L on this line the Under Arm measure.

37.

39.

Q

from

line

V

and

W with a straight

straight line from

L

line.

through

T

and

U and

continue

V to W. line

line

L through U belongs to the back. from L through T belongs to the front.

from

THE KNICKERBOCKERS

The Knickerbockers given Front of knickerbockers 1.

2.

3.

4.

are for a

2 -year-old child.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Draw line A-B 18^ inches long. At B square a line with line A-B. Measure on this line from B 8 inches. Mark At C square a line with line B-C.

this point C.


#0}

S'

^USSUH

f>lblA.%e

w


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 5.

Measure on

Mark

this line 16 inches.

6.

Square a

7.

Measure from

215

this point

D.

D with line D-C and draw out to line A-B. D on this line % of an inch. Mark this

line at

point E. 8.

D

Measure down from

on

C-D

line

Mark

7 inches.

this

point F. 9.

10.

Place point

C on

Measure from

the chart at

A-B on

line

F and draw from

line

D

curve to E.

1 Y2

inches.

Mark

this point G.

n. At 12.

G

square a line with line D-G.

Measure from

G

on

% of an inch.

this line

Mark

this

point H.

B on

13.

Place point

14.

Measure from

15.

Square a

16.

Measure from

17.

Connect J and

the chart at

H and

draw curve through

E.

B

on

line

A-B

8 inches.

Mark

this point

Mark

this point

I.

with line A-B.

line at I

I

on

this line

iJ4 inches.

j-

G

with a straight

Measure from J on point K. 18.

19.

Place point

line

%

line.

of

an

inch.

Mark

this

K on the chart at K and draw curve through I.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Back of knickerbockers 1. At B square a line with 2.

J-G

Measure from B on

line

this line

A-B.

n^ inches.

Mark

this point

L. 3. 4.

At L square a line with line B-L. At A square a line with line A-B.

this line 5.

meets

From

line

Mark

the point where

from L, M.

A on line A-M

measure 5)^ inches.

Mark

this point

N. 6.

Find a point half way between

7.

Connect

B and

0.

and

N with a straight line.

I.

Mark

this point


-$ o

y

s

'

Ki\

i c

/r

e

yÂť

ÂŁoc

7r

e

y> s.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 8.

K

Place point

9.

on the chart at I and hold chart so that J

Draw

touches line O-N.

217

M

Measure from

curve.

Mark

on

M-L 2^

line

this point P.

Mark

inches.

this

point Q. 10.

B

Mark

this point

way between Q and L. Mark

this point

At S square a line with line Q-L. Measure from S on this line 2^ inches. Mark

this point

Measure from

on

line

B-L 9

inches.

R.

n. Find a point

half

S.

12. 13.

T.

C on the chart at R and draw curve to T. C on the chart at T and draw curve to Q. Mark this line N-Q beyond Q iJ4 inches.

14.

Place point

15.

Place point

16.

Continue

point U. 17.

Measure down from

Q on curve Q-T

6 inches.

Mark

this

Mark

this

point V. 18.

point

Measure straight out from

V

i}i inches.

W.

W and U with a straight

19.

Connect

20.

Measure from

21.

Square a

Q

on curve

Q-N

line.

2 inches.

Mark this point

X. line at

X and draw 3^ inches long.

Mark

this

point Y. 22. 23. 24.

Connect

Y

and

Measure from

X towards Q Y2 mcn

Connect Z and

For every

X with a straight line. Y

size larger,

with a straight

add

1

Mark

-

this point Z.

line.

inch on lines B-C, B-L,

A-M,

D-G.

Add 1 Make

inch on lines B-A,

L-M, C-D.

the distance from

B

to I Y2 inch

more

for each size.


LESSON XLVI HOW

TO MAKE A BOY'S RUSSIAN BLOUSE, AND KNICKERBOCKERS

We

you how

will teach

make the perfectly plain Russian down the front. This same blouse

to

Blouse, buttoned straight

may have

plaits

down

you learn

designs for

to

make

the plain garment

more elaborate

the blouse needs

be able to follow

will

line

away

B-W on

the length-

any

fitting there will

be goods enough to do

Allow seams everywhere.

it.

Cut two for

hem.

Allow two inches on the bottom

pieces like the front.

Sew in

a French seam the under arm seams and shoul-

der seams, or the seams

may

be stitched and

and stitched again on the outside. i

you

Lay

blouses.

cut

sailor collar.

Allow a large seam on the shoulder so

wise fold of the goods. if

may be

it

and be finished with a large

in front at the neck If

the front and back and

all

turned one

Turn each

way

front in about

inch for a hem, and after turning in the raw edge stitch as near

Turn

the edge as possible.

the

bottom up two

turning in the raw edge stitch the

Lap

hem

inches,

and

after

in.

the right front over on the left

i

inch.

Sew buttons on

the right-hand side and work buttonholes on the left-hand side.

Finish the neck with a round turn-over collar.

collar as directed for

draft for the sleeves. into the armhole sleeve

grown person.)

and lay a small box

Place

is

in, plait

them

Begin at the middle of the

Lay

plait.

(Cut the

child's full sleeve

Instead of gathering them

and at the hand.

side of this until the sleeve

hand.

Use the

small side plaits on either

the right size for the armhole

and

Face the sleeve at the hand. little

to hold a belt

To make

straps

made

made

of the

of the goods

on the under arm seams,

goods or of leather.

the knickerbockers

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Cut

219

out two pieces for the


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

220

straight of the

B-I of the

line

Lay line A-B each time on the goods lengthwise. Sew line B-I of the front to back. Sew line F-C of the front to line V-R of

and two

fronts,

the back.

for the backs.

This forms the two separate

together at point

Sew I-N

line

K-H

of

one front to

one back to

of

legs.

Pin the two Legs

I.

line

I-N

K-H

line

it will

Turn

form a hem and under

on the

front, or for

very

V-Q-U-W

in lap

half

K where the

way, so that

Fasten a pocket at

lap.

little

line

Face the seam on

each side of the front and put an under lap from I to

seam was not sewed.

Sew

of the other.

of the other.

children the pocket

E-F

line

may

be

left

out.

Sew

in the dart

Put a

X-Y-Z.

bias facing

all

about the top

of the back, also the front, just the size of 3^ the waist plus 2

band must lap over Sew a button at E on each

inches for both the front and back, for the 1

inch at each side where

it

fastens.

side,

and work a buttonhole at

holes

all

a

hem in the bottom

or gather the leg

2

on each

side.

Work

button-

Put

of each leg

If this is

elastic in,

done, seam B-I should be

or 2Y2 inches from the

For a boy

Y2 i ncn wide and run

and put on a straight band, having a buckle

sewed on the end. about

Q

along the waist line to button on to the under waist.

bottom and both

left

open

sides faced.

of 6 years or over the knickerbockers should fasten

in the front instead of at the sides.

In this case, where the

pockets are put in at the sides, sew one side of the pocket to the front and the other to the back piece, having the seams on

the inside.

Turn each seam back and

stitch again

on the right

side.

Make

the facing about the top

front center seam.

all

in one piece, opening at the

In cutting the pattern leave a projecting

piece on the fronts at line

H-K

about

1%

On

inches wide.

the

right side turn this piece back to form a hem, after having turned in

the

raw

edge.

wide and fold

it

Take a

straight piece of goods 3

lengthwise in the center.

edges in and place the piece just where the

inches

Turn the two raw

hem on

the right


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

222

front will be

the

hem between

outside.

This forms a

stitched.

under the hem.

Work

fly for

buttonholes in this

the buttonholes.

fly

the buttonholes

and catch

Do not catch

it

to

through to the

Line with a straight piece of the goods the projecting

piece on the left front

and allow

holes of the right side.

it

to project

under the button-

Place buttons on this piece to correspond

with the buttonholes.

Put a pocket on each the top,

Make

back about 2Y2 inches from and about half way between the side and back seams. side of the

a pointed flap over each of these pockets, and put a button

on the pocket and work a buttonhole

in the corner of the flap.


LESSON XLVn child's pa jama suit

To make the coat, draft the same as the child's waist draft. Add to the back of the neck 34 mcn and 3^ inch at the waist line in the back. Draw the middle back line through these two points. Leave out lines L-T and L-U. Add 2 inches to the front at the middle line for lap, point W. Mark this point X. Place Measure down from 2 inches. point F on the chart at X and allow curve F-J to touch curve >

W

O-Q.

Add 4

inches to the bottom of the draft below waist

the goods, about the neck and

down

and cover with a fancy braid or

hem

1

In of

the front, on the right side,

band

of the goods.

Allow a

Y2 inches wide about the bottom. Lap the front so that Fasten of one side comes on line Q-R of the other.

Q-R down the line

bias

line.

Turn the edge

cutting out pattern allow seams everywhere.

front with buttons, or with fancy frog ornaments.

The pajama part

of the suit is drafted just like the knicker-

F-C are extended below make them come to the ankles. This amount depends on the size of the child. The dart is left out in the back, and gathered into the waist band. The front should be sewed to a waist made like the child's draft, but very loose about the

bockers, but the lines T-R, O-B, and

C-B-R enough

to

waist and across the shoulders.

and buttoned

The left

side

to the waist.

The back

is

fastened to a

For large boys the waist

is

band

not used.

seams are sewed up to the band and the pajamas are

open in

front.

tied in front.

A tape is fastened to

each end of the band and

Place buttons and buttonholes

223

down

the front.


\ Soys'


:

LESSON XL VIII drawers

child's

The

draft given

For every year }/i

is

for a child of 5 years.

in size

add \i inch

inch to back waist measure,

1

to front waist

measure and

inch to length of

leg,

and J^

inch to width of leg on front and back.

The normal waist measures

'

for children are as follows

1

year old

20^

inches

2

years old

21

inches

3 years old 4 years old

21^2 inches 22

inches

5 years old 6 years old

22%

inches

2$

inches

7 years old

23

inches

8 years old

23K 23^

inches

24

inches

9 years old 10 years old

i.

Draw

line

inches

A-B.

2.

Find center between

3.

At C square a

A and B. Mark

this point C.

5.

Mark this point C-D. From C on line C-D measure 1 inch. Mark this point E. From C on line C-A measure 9 inches. Mark this point

6.

From E on

4.

line

with line A-B.

F. line

C-D measure 15^

inches.

Mark

this

point G.

At G square a line with line C-D. Mark this point H. 8. Measure to the left of G %% inches. square line line H a with G-H. At 9. Mark this point 10. Measure from H on this line 3 inches. 7.

L 225


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

226

G-H

Mark

ii.

Continue

12.

At J square a line with line G-J. Measure on this line from J 63^ inches.

13.

line

4 inches.

this point J.

Mark

this

point

K.

K and I with a straight line.

14.

Connect

15.

Place point

F

on the chart at

I

and draw curve through

K.

F on

chart at I and draw through curve H.

16.

Place point

17.

Connect

18.

Find a point half way between F and K.

K

and F with a straight

line.

Mark

this

point

L. 19.

point

On M.

this line

% of an inch

measure

from L.

Mark

this

20.

Place point

D

on the chart at

M and draw curve through

21.

Place point

D

on the chart at

M and draw curve through

K. F.

This finishes the front of the drawers. 22.

Measure from C on

line

C-B

7^ inches. Mark

this

point

N. 23. 24.

At N square a line with line C-B. Measure from N on this line 1^2

inches.

Mark

this

point O.

G measure

25.

From

26.

At P square a

27.

From P on

28.

Continue

29.

At

to the right

&% inches. Mark this point

P. line

with

this line

line

G-P.

measure 3 inches.

Mark

this

point

Q-

30.

point

S.

R

From

line

G-P 4

inches.

Mark

this

point R.

square a line with line G-R.

R

measure on

this line

6}4 inches.

Mark

this

S.

31.

Connect S and

32.

Place point

Q

F on

with a straight the chart at

Q

line.

and draw curve through


s

Child

x

3)yÂąwB

r

3

r

s.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

228

33.

Place point

F on

the chart at

Q

and draw curve through

P. 34.

Connect S and

35.

Find a point half way between S and 0.

36.

At

37.

Measure from

38.

Place point

D

Place point

C on

with a straight

line.

Mark

this

point

T.

T

square a line with S-0.

T on

Y2 inch. Mark this point U. on the chart at S and draw curve through this line

U. 39.

the chart at

U and draw

0.

This finishes the draft of the drawers. In cutting patterns allow seams everywhere.

curve through


LESSON XLIX HOW For

a

TO MAKE LITTLE GIRLS dress the draft given

little girl's

CLOTHING

'

may be used in a variety

of ways.

For the dress with the the draft just as

gathered on at the waist

skirt

Cut a pattern by

it is.

line,

use

tracing off on another

and about ij^ inches buttons and buttonholes. Put

piece of paper, allowing seams everywhere,

down all

the back on each side for

tucks in the goods before laying on the pattern.

like insertion of lace or

garment put

is cut,

After the waist to

make

it

is

to

is

come

cut out, cut

off

just

where they are wanted.

lengths enough for the skirt

the desired fullness about the bottom.

depend on the which

Any trimming;

be laid on after the

but this should be planned for before tucks are

that the tucks will

in, so

may

embroidery

size

and age

From

of the child.)

be used for the front of the

skirt,

(This will the breadth

gore off about three

inches, slanting out to the selvage.

For the other breadths use

the goods straight on both edges.

Allow a hem two or three

Gather

inches wide.

placing

more

this skirt to the waist at the waist line,

back than in

fullness in the

front.

may be used. Mother Hubbard,

A

belt of in-

sertion of lace or embroidery If the dress is to

be

use just the neck and

shoulder part of the draft for a yoke and gather the skirt on to the yoke.

Use the straight breadths, putting more

the back than

in front.

If

you wish

to

make

fullness in

a one-piece dress

with box plaits down the front and back, trace the front and

back on another piece from

R

Extend

of paper.

the length the skirt should be.

L-T down

the

same length but

the skirt the desired fullness.

slant

A 229

line

Q-R

down L-U and enough to make

Extend

them out

straight

lines

dress of this kind should not


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING have a very

Extend

full skirt.

Cut the pattern

A-B down the same distance. seams. Lay box plaits in the come in the middle front, and

line

out, allowing

goods lengthwise so that one

all

will

one about the middle of the shoulder

down

back, one should be

to

each plait at the waist

and run a

line

Child's Blouse Waist.

back

slant the middle

the front line out

from

L

L

for the

T

through

Little Girl's

this

same

1

belt through.

for the

Clothing.

may

hand

Draw

line.

under arm of the

Slant

line.

straight line

front.

Add 2^

Put a narrow hem

For the

in the

a

little girl's

under waist

Face the bottom with a bias

be used.

Make

inch wide.

the right

Either a

the child's blouse waist,

armholes with a bias

the

hem down

each side of the back and

work buttonholes and sew on buttons.

on

plaits should

back under arm and draw a straight

facing about 1^2 inches wide and facing

These

Cut an opening under

elastic in.

Under

draft

In the

side.

inch at the waist

1

inches to the bottom of the waist.

bottom aud run an

each

be used.

To make out

line

may

inch at the waist

1

U

through

from

line.

each other at the shoulder.

leather belt or one of the goods

line

line at

the middle of the back and one each

about the middle of the shoulder

side

match on

231

Place the buttonholes

Sew buttons about the bottom

side.

to but-

ton the waist on. Little Girl's Skirt.

as

full as

Make

the skirt straight, and not quite

Place a

the dress skirt.

hem

in the

bottom about ij^

inches wide and a straight band at the waist line about ij^ inches wide.

Leave the

back and hem the

left side

one at the bottom and

Work is

of the garments

hem

7 or 8

inches

down

the

% inch wide and the right

the wide

hem

stitch across the

over on the narrow

bottom

to

keep

it

from

buttonholes in the waist band to match

the buttons on the waist. waist, but this

open about

with a

Lap

side with a narrow hem.

tearing down.

skirt

If desired the skirt

may be sewed to the

not desirable, as one often wishes to change one

and not the

Child's Drawers.

other.

Cut two

pieces like the draft.

Sew curve


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

233.

K-I-H to curve S-Q-P. Sew line F-M-K of one piece to the same line of the other. Slash both pieces down from E about 6 Face

inches.

this slash

Leave the

with a continuous facing.

front side out for an under lap and turn the other back.

the waist line of the back to a straight band

2

inches longer than

Y2 the waist measure and the back to a straight length. ished.

back and front

in the middle at the

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Child's Night-gown. perfectly plain

gown

Draw

and L-T.

Use the

to

Work

lines slanting

out from

on a

very narrow

L

to

make

L-U

the desired

size of the child.

fold of the goods lengthwise.

line.

hem and

Hem

the left side of the opening with

the right side with an inch- wide hem.

the right side over on the

left

and

stitch across the

the neck with a bias facing and sew a sleeves at the

Put a hem be

For a

leaving out lines

front open on the center front line to about 4 or 5 inches

below the waist

may

it is,

about the bottom, according to the front

buttonholes

button on the waist.

child's waist draft.

use the draft as

Cut both the back and

Cut the

band the same

This band should be about ij^ inches wide when finSew a button to each end of the front band and work a

buttonhole in each end of the back band.

fullness

Gather

hand the same way.

in the

made

full

little

Use the

it.

full

Face

Trim the

sleeve draft.

bottom about ij^ inches wide.

The gown

For

this allow 2

about the neck

if

desired.

inches on the back and 3 on the front.

and then

bottom.

edge to

a

Lay

face as in the plain gown.

Gather about the neck


9J

to

o


LESSON L infant's first outfit

The Pinning

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Blanket.

A-B

i.

Draw

2.

At A, square a

3.

Draw

4.

Measure up from

5.

Place point

6.

At B square a

7.

Measure from B on

8.

Connect

9.

Measure from

D.

line

For the

with line A-B.

line

Mark

5 inches long.

D

skirt,

25 inches long.

C

x

/i inch.

this point C.

Mark

on the chart at

this point

A and

D.

draw curve through

-

with line A-B.

line

this line 14 inches.

Mark

this point

E.

Mark

B.

D

and

E

with a straight

D

line.

D-E the same distance as A to Connect B and F with a slightly curved

on

this point F.

line

line.

Draw

10.

line

G-H

25 inches long.

n. At G square a line with line G-H. Mark this point 12. Measure from G 7J/2 inches. inches. Mark 13. Measure up from I ij^

I.

this

point

G-H and draw 16^

inches

j14.

H

Mark

long. 15. 16.

H.

At

square a line with line this point

K.

Connect J and K with a straight line. Measure down from J the same distance as from

Mark

G

to

this point L.

L and

17.

Connect

18.

Place point

D

H with a curved line. on the chart at

J. 235

G

and draw curve to


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

236

THE WAIST-

19. 20.

Mark 21. 22.

Draw At

line

M-N

inches long.

5

M square a line with line M-N and draw 13 inches

long..

this point O.

Measure up from O, Y2 inch. Mark this point P. Measure from on line M-O, 7^ inches. Mark

M

this

point Q. 23.

Place point

24.

At

C on

the chart at

P and draw

curve through

Q-

Mark

N square a line with line M-N and draw 13 inches long.

this point

R.

26.

Measure down from R, Y2 inch. Mark this point Measure from N, 3 inches. Mark this point T.

27.

Place point

28.

Measure

25.

D

S.

on the chart at S and draw curve through

T. to the left of Q, 3 inches.

Mark

point

this

U. 29.

Mark

At

Q

square a line with line

O-Q and draw

5 inches long.

this point V.

30.

Place point

31.

Continue

F

U

on the chart at

and draw curve

to

V. line

Q-V above

V

1^2 inches.

Mark

this point

W. 32.

Mark

At

W square a

this point

line

with

line

Q-W. Draw 1 J^ inches

long.

X.

33.

Measure

34.

Place point

to the left of U, 2 inches.

Mark

this point

Y.

F on

the chart at

Y

and draw curve through

X. 35.

Find a point half way between

U

and Q.

Mark

this

point Z. 36.

With Z

with a curve.

as a center

and Z-U as a radius connect

U

and

Q


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

The pinning blanket Cut two

is

made

of white flannel.

and two

pieces for the fronts

the two backs

Join

at line J-L.

237

line

for the backs.

G-H

to line

D-F.

Join

These

seams should be pressed open and cat-stitched on the right side with white

silk.

Put a hem ij^ inches wide down the fronts and about the

hem

and

on the right side

bottom.

Baste the

with

catching through so as to fasten the

silk,

waist with line

the waist

is

M-N

made

in

on a

cat-stitch

it

fold of the goods.

hem

in.

Cut the

Cut two

pieces, as

Stitch the two pieces together all

double.

about the top and ends. Turn and baste the edges together so as to

make a

nice

smooth edge.

two lower edges.

in the

Stitch again all around,

and turn

Slip the top edge of the skirt part in

between these edges, having point J come at N. Stitch across on the. machine on the right side. Work a buttonhole in the end of the shoulder strap,

The waist portion blanket.

M-0

D

is

made almost

N-R

line

Measure out

on the chart at

N

is

that

Make

a curve.

it will

Make

be made of

used for the bottom and line

skirt

This

This part was used in the

There must be a seam

in this waist

fine muslin.

The

Put a hem

down

Place

the waist just as you did the other except

hreadth 26 inches long.

open the

N ^ inch.

the skirt portion straight of the goods,

about the bottom.

pinning

and draw curve through M.

for the pinning blanket.

it is

draft.

like the waist of the

to the left of

the front line of the skirt waist.

back as

is

In this waist

for the top.

point

and place buttons as indicated on

skirt should

in the

making each

measure

1%

yards

bottom i}4 inches wide, and

the back 4 inches.

Sew

to the waist as in

the other case, placing the gathers between the two parts of the waist.

down

Put a hem

% of an inch down both sides of the back, and

the skirt opening.

other garments.

Lap

at the

bottom as directed

for


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

THE INFANT

Back

of

gown

OR NIGHT-GOWN

S SLIP

1.

Draw

2.

At A, square a

3.

From

4.

Measure up from

5.

Measure

line

239

A-B 36

inches long.

with

line

A measure

on

line

this line

A-B.

4% inches. Mark

this point

C.

A

Jk£

to the right of

Mark

inch.

this point

7.

At E, square a line with line A-C. Measure from E on this line inch.

8.

Place point

9.

Connect F and C with a straight

6.

10.

%

K on the chart at F,

Measure down from

D.

A 1% inches. Mark this point E.

A

on

line

Mark

this point F.

and draw curve

to D.

line.

A-B

Mark

3 inches.

this

point G.

G square

11.

At

12.

Measure from

13.

Measure

a line with line A-B.

G on

to the left of

H % inch.

Place point J on the chart at Continue curve to H. 14.

15.

Square a

16.

Measure from B on

17.

Connect

18.

Measure from

line at B,

Mark this point H. Mark this point I.

this line 6 inches.

with

C and draw

curve to

I.

A-B.

line

this line 17 inches.

Mark

this point

H and J with a straight line. H on line H-J 32 inches.

Mark

this point

Mark

this point

j-

K. 19.

Connect

B and

Front of gown

K with a slight curve.

1.

Draw

2.

At

3.

Measure from

A

4.

At C square a

line

A

line

A-B 36

inches long.

square a line with line A-B.

on

this line

&/i inches.

C.

with line A-C.


p

Ih}*hf s

Si

i

or Niqhhfovrr*.


.

PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 5.

Measure from C on

6.

Measure

this line, 3^2 inch.

to the right of C, 3 inches.

7.

At E

8.

Measure from

9.

Connect

10.

Measure

Mark Mark

241

this

point D.

this point

E.

square a line with line A-C.

E

on

this line,

1%

inches.

Mark

this point

F.

F and

D

with a straight

to the right of

D,

1

line.

inch.

Mark

K on the chart at G and draw

11

Place point

12.

Measure down from

this point

G.

curve through

F.

A on line A-B, 2^ inches. Mark this

point H.

H square a line with line A-B. H on this line, j% inches.

13.

At

14.

Measure from

15.

Measure

Mark

this point

I.

to the right of

I,

ij^ inches.

Mark

this

point

j-

D

and draw curve to J. Place point J on the chart at on the chart at J and draw curve to I. 17. Place point 18. At B square a line with line A-B. 16.

K

19.

Measure from B on

this line, 21 inches.

Mark

this

point

K.

K and

20.

Connect

21.

Measure from

22.

Connect

L and

Infant's sleeve 1.

2.

3.

I

I I

with a straight

on

line.

this line, 32 inches.

Point L.

with a slight curve.

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Draw line A-B 5^ inches long. At B square a line with line A-B. Measure from B on this line 10 inches.

Mark

this point

C.

5.

Measure from B Yl inch. Mark this point D. Place point D on the chart at D and draw curve through

6.

Find a point half way between

4.

A.

E.

D

and C.

Mark

this point


I"n}a-hi-s

Si ee

ve.


5

.

PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 7.

Square a

8.

From E on

9.

Place point

line at

E

with

line

D-C.

Y inch.

measure

this line,

24

Mark

this point F.

D on the chart at F and draw curve through D. D on the chart at F and draw curve through

10.

Place point

11.

At

12.

Measure from

13.

At

14.

Measure from

C.

A

square a line with line A-B.

A on this line io^ inches. Mark this point

G.

G

square a line with line A-G.

15

Place point

16.

Measure

G on

this line

this point

H.

D on the chart at C and draw curve through H.

to the left of

G3

inches.

17.

At

18.

Measure from

19.

Place point

20.

Find a point half way between

21.

At

22.

Measure on

I,

Mark

Y2 inch.

Mark

this point

I.

square a line with line A-G. I

on

F on

this line,

inch.

1

the chart at

Point

J.

H and draw curve

through.

j-

A and I. Mark

this point

K.

K square a line with line A-G. this line from K 3 inches.

Mark

this point

L. 23.

24.

N on the chart at L and draw curve through A. Place point N on the chart at L and draw curve through J. Place point

HOW

TO MAKE THE SLIP OR NIGHT-GOWN

Cut the middle back and middle front fold of the goods.

French seam.

Sew up

Put a hem

the under

lines

on the lengthwise

arm seams

in the bottom,

1

in a

very narrow

inch wide for the

Sew the shoulders in a narrow French seam. Slash the front down 14 inches and hem as in the child's gown. Turn the neck down a small seam and cover with finishing braid. Sew to the edge of this a narrow lace edge. Gather the sleeves at the hand and finish

night-gown, and run a tape in for a draw string.

with the finishing braid and edge.


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

244

For the

slip

put a three inch

Sew

use the draw string.

in

hem

bottom, and do not

in the

the sleeve

and the garment

is

finished.

Trace

Add

slip.

back it

off

a yoke of any desired shape, using the draft for the

3 inches to the center front

Make wide hem

for gathers.

may have

a

The

on the bottom. in fullness.

and

The

the dress in the

ruffle

dress

and

when

3 inches to the center

finished 36 inches long;

bottom or a

ruffle 3

inches wide

should be ij^ the width of the skirt

may be as fancy as you wish, using tucks Do not use ruffles about the neck or

lace or embroidery.

sleeves.

The

skirt of the dress should

yards about the bottom.

measure about

Use the sleeve draft given.

2

3-8


LESSON LI HOW There

TO MAKE USE OF YOUR KNOWLEDGE

are three

ways

in

which you can turn your knowledge

Draft patterns for others, go out by the day to sew,

into money.

or open an establishment of your own.

can easily combine the second with

To open an rooms

certain

rooms

in

your own home

for

latter

is

best.

latter

you

may

set aside

your work, or you

may open

establishment of your own, you

in

some convenient place

one way the

you do the

If

it.

down town

in the

You can

The

your work when working hours are over.

In

district.

get completely

away from

expense, however,

is greater.

A waiting-room,

For your work you should have three rooms.

The first should be small but The second may be small, but

a fitting-room, and a workroom. comfortable, and in good taste.

should have a good light and,

room should be kept

this

have

room

plan

Keep

a closet

work all

is

the

all

off of this

This

little

chalk, etc.

will

room

to

warm and large. You should

for heating flat-irons.

muslin on the wall in this

be found better than to fold

hang your

or three

coming nearly

utensils.

patterns of regular patrons.

Have two

in.

light,

working

to tack a large piece of

to pin patterns on.

them.

all

room a gas plate or small stove

in this

A good

possible, a mirror

The workroom should be

to the floor.

In

if

finished

wooden boxes

If possible

and

(cigar boxes) to

put

utensils in, such as pencils, tracing- wheels, tracing-

Always keep your chart where

it will

not get broken.

Never show the gowns you make to any one but the son for whom they are made. will lose

have

partly finished

your patrons

if

you

do. 245

It

is

not professional.

When you

are ready to

per-

You open


PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING

246

your establishment, send to

all

your friends your

calling-card,,

upon which you have neatly written the word Dressmaking.

Keep your sewing-room

as orderly as possible.

If

sleeves,

one

skirts,

You must keep

one waists,

you need Give one

help, train a person to each part of the business. etc.

a book for your accounts, and put in

it

every-

thing you furnish for your patrons, and the cost of each article.

Do

not purchase any expensive material for a customer without

having

first

had them make a deposit with you Send a

the cost of the article.

send out.

If this is

bill

of at least

%

with every piece of work you

not paid in one month send another

bill.

Keep on sending them each month until paid. In figuring the cost of a gown be sure to get in every item, and be sure not to forget to

add a

profit

if

you are

your dry goods merchant the discount.

merchant

to furnish the material.

first

Never give a customer will take it

Go

to

thing and get a dressmaker's this discount

from you.

THE END.

:

if

you do the


AW,

1

1913


V

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