mmm
ACTICAL:
^â€¢DRESSMAKM
SARA.MAyALLIN(
Class
TT 5\5 JiA
Book Copyright NÂ°.
COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
Practical
Sewing and Dressmaking BY
SARA MAY ALLINGTON
ILLUSTRATED BY
ELIZABETH CLEVES BANKS
DANA
BOSTON ESTES & COMPANY PUBLISHERS
Copyright, 1913
By Dana Estes & Company. All rights reserved
C. H.
THE COLONIAL PKESS SIMONDS & CO., BOSTON, U.
r, s* ire Â©CI.A351233
S. A.
A
8"
'<?
CONTENTS PAGE
v
Introduction
LESSON
i.
n n n n ir n
Stitches used in Sewing and Dressmaking
Basting Even Basting Uneven Basting Slanting or Padding Stitch
Running Stitch
.
Blind Stitch
13
Back Stitch
',
.
.
.
Overcasting
Overhanding
Hemming Cat  stitching French Knots Buttonholes To Work Buttonholes on Lace Eyelets Loops Finishing Seams Double Stitch Seams French Seam Strap Seam Raw Lapped Seam Cord Seam Fell Seam Bias Bands Milliners' Fold
17 17
.17
19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19
.....
Girdles Shirring Plain Shirring Tucked Shirring
LESSON
21
.... Own
2.
Utensils needed for Sewing and Dressmaking How to Make a Papier  mache Bust Form for One's
23
3.
Planning the Gown
LESSON
How
25
4.
The Chart with which the Drafting
LESSON
23
Dress
making
LESSON
13 13 13 13 15 15 15 17 17 17 17
is
Done
29
5.
to 1.
2.
Take Measures Waist Measure Bust Measure
32 .
.
34 34
CONTENTS Neck Measure Armhole Measure Under Arm Measure Upper Front Measure Back Length Measure Back Width Measure Front Length Measure Arm Length Measure Elbow Measure Inside Arm Measure from Armhole to Bend Hand Measure
3. 4.
.
5.
6. 7.
8.
9.
10. 11.
12. 13.
.
35
35 35
.
of
17.
Arm
How
.
.

.
11.
.
.
51
.
....
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
71
.
Make the Waist
77
16. .
.
.
.
.
.

piece Tight Sleeve
89
18.
The Flowing Sleeve
91
.
19.
Drafting the Sleeve with the Tight Elbow and Large Top
LESSON
.85
17.
The One
LESSON
.
15.
to Cut, Fit, and
Drafting the Coat or Lining Sleeve
LESSON
65
14.
Drafting the Waist with French Forms
LESSON
59
13.
Drafting the Waist without Back Forms
LESSON
53
12.
Drafting the Tight Waist with Back Forms
How
49
10.
The Making and Finishing of the Shirtwaist
LESSON
43
9.
to Cut the Sailor Collar, or any Large Collar
LESSON
LESSON
39
.47
waist
to Draft the Kimono Waist
LESSON
.
8.
LESSON How
LESSON
36 36 36 36 36 36
7.
Drafting the Blouse
LESSON
.
6.
Drafting the Shirtwaist Sleeve
LESSON
.35 36 .36
38
Drafting the Shirt  waist
LESSON
.
Front Length of Skirt Side Length of Skirt Back Length of Skirt Take Hip Measure
14.
15. 16.
LESSON
.
PAGE 34 34
.
93
20.
Drafting the Leg
o'
Mutton Sleeve
97
CONTENTS PAQB
LESSON 21. How to Cut, Make, and Finish the To Make the Mousquetaire Sleeve LESSON
Sleeve
ior 102
22.
Drafting the Circular Skirt
LESSON
105
23.
Drafting the Three
LESSON

gored Circular Skirt
109
24.
Drafting the Seven
LESSON

.113
gored Skirt
25.
Drafting the Nine
LESSON

gored Skirt
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.117
26.
Drafting the Fifteen
LESSON

gored Skirt
121
27.
The Full Plaited
LESSON
Skirt,
made from the Fifteen

gored Draft
125
28.
To Cut, Make, and Finish the Drop Skirt and Outside Skirt The Outside Skirt
LESSON
29.
.
â€”
Petticoats Women's Muslin Underwear The Petticoat with a Yoke
LESSON
129 131
135 136
30.
The Night  gown
LESSON
.
.
.
139
31.
The Chemise The Chemise without Gathers
LESSON
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
...
32.
Women's Corset Covers Corset Cover Fulled at Neck and Waist Line
LESSON
.
.141 .143 145
.145
33.
Seamless Corset Cover made from the Shirt
LESSON

waist Draft
.
.
149
34.
Women's Circular Drawers
To Make the Different
How LESSON
151 153
Sizes
to Cut, Make, and Finish the Circular
Drawers
.
.153
35.
Drafting the Princess
LESSON
Gown
157
36.
Drafting the Single

breasted, Tight
To Form Skirt of Coat To Draft the Collar
LESSON

fitting Tailored
Coat
.
163 166 169
37.
Loose

fitting,
Unlined Coat
171
CONTENTS PAGE
LESSON
38.
The Slightly Fitted Coat To Draft the Collar
LESSON
175 178
.
39.
How
Make and
to
LESSON
Finish the Tailored Coat
.
.
.
.
.181
40.
The
Child's
LESSON
Draft
191
41.
Child's Sleeve
LESSON
Draft
195:
.
.42.
Child's
LESSON
Coat Sleeve
199
43
Child's Rompers
LESSON
203
.
44
How
to Cut, and Finish the Rompers
To Draft the Different
LESSON
.
Sizes
207 209
45.
Boy's Russian Blouse Suit
.
.
.
The Blouse The Knickerbockers
LESSON
21 r
211
213
46.
How LESSON
Make
to
a Boy's Russian Blouse, and Knickerbockers
.
219
47.
Child's Pajama Suit
LESSON
223
.
48.
Child's
LESSON
Drawers
225
49
How
to Make Little Girls' Clothing Child's Blouse Waist Little Girls' Underclothing Little GrRL's Skirt Child's Drawers Child's Nightgown
LESSON
229
.
231 231 231 231 223
50.
Infant's First Outfit
235 235 235 236
The Pinning Blanket For the Skirt The Waist The Infant's Skirt Infant's Slip or Nightgown How to Make the Slip or Nightgown For the Infant's Dress
LESSON
How
.
.
.237 239 243 244
51.
to
Make Use
of
Your Knowledge
245
INTRODUCTION Every woman, no matter how
she
if
circumstances
demand
it
be situated at the
command some knowledge
present time, should have at her
which,
may
suddenly, would bring her in
a good income.
There
is
no business in the world,
which brings capital
in a greater
income
for
which
for so
women
little
are fitted,
expenditure of
and time as dressmaking.
no woman who will not wish some time in her life knew something of this art. If she has children she will wish to make many things for them. If she is not a woman of wealth, she can dress herself for less than half what it will Even cost her to hire, if she can make her own clothing. There
is
that she
should she be able to hire her work done,
how much
work
herself,
work
of others.
easier it
is
if
she understands the
for her to
be suited with the
There are none so hard to please as those who
do not know how a thing should be done. Oftentimes a financial
when
there
is
no time to wait
think what to do.
With
making, one can turn to
moment's
crisis
it
comes suddenly into one's for positions
life,
and hardly time to
the knowledge of sewing and dress
and earn a good income, at almost a
notice.
of women who are thrown out into own living. With the thorough knowledge of sewing and dressmaking we have tried to give in these pages, she can make a success wherever she may wish to put her knowl
Almost every day we hear
the world to earn their
edge to the
test.
In almost any it is difficult is
forced to
line of
work the competition
to find a position,
work
is
so great that
and in almost every line the woman
in competition with
men, under the nervous
INTRODUCTION strain of business of the
man
dressmaking. still
room
We have
methods and at much smaller pay than that
working beside
for
The
her.
field is hers,
many more
This
and
it is
tried to give in this course a
women, no matter
for
not so with sewing and so large that there
is
workers.
course so thorough and broad that
knowledge.
is
method
it will
so simple
and a
meet the needs
of all
what purpose they may wish
to use their
AND
PRACTICAL SEWING
DRESSMAKING LESSON
I
STITCHES USED IN DRESSMAKING AND SEWING
Before taking up
the actual
learn the different stitches
and
making
utensils
of the
gown, we
will
which are necessary
for
dressmaking and sewing. Basting.
60
is
it is
â€” For basting use a good quality basting thread.
preferable for
all
uses except very heavy wool goods, then
best to use 40 or 50.
For
silk or
velvet a fine thread should
be used so that it will not mark the goods.
In pulling out bastings
never try to pull the entire length of the thread.
you
stitches or
Even Basting sides.
This
is
will pull the thread in the is
It
where the
stitch is the
Cut it every few
goods and ruin
it.
same length on both
used for basting up seams.
Uneven Basting one short.
No*
is
is
where the upper stitch
is
long and the under
used for marking seams, basting in hems,
Slanting or Padding Stitch
is
etc.
used for fastening in canvas or
padding in coats.
Running is
Stitch
is
where small
stitches are taken evenly.
This
used for joining pieces of materials, tucks, gathers, and sewing
on braid or trimming. The work should be held evenly together with the
left
hand, while the needle
is
held in the right and pushed
many stitches on through. You should
back and forth through the material, making as the needle as possible before pulling practice this stitch until
out looking at the work.
it
you can take small even
stitches with
BasTm*
Even Basting
Uneven BasTing Padding
» ~
— ~ — "—
*
•*
—
——
STiYch

Running StItc^ Bh'nd
ST.'Tcli
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
— This
Blind Stitch.
13
used to fasten on trimming or bias
is
bands where the stitch must not show on the right
Run
side.
the needle between the foundation goods and the trimming
with a running
Take the
stitch.
through the foundation,
stitch
but only through the under side of the trimming or into the turned in edge of the bias band.
Back
Stitch.
— Make a stitch as in the running beyond the
of taking the next stitch
way back
in the next stitch
way back
each one
and take one twice as
to the one preceding
Instead
stitch.
place the needle
first,
much
Take
long.
This stitch
it.
is
used
to take the place of
machine sewing.
It is
the running stitch.
When
should resemble machine
finished
it
stronger than
stitching.
Overcasting
a slanting stitch taken over and over the
is
edge of the goods. is
This
is
used on seams or wherever there
a raw edge exposed, to keep
done from right
raw
it
The work
from raveling.
is
to left.
— The
Overhanding.
two selvages
of
goods are held evenly
together and are sewed over and over together with very small
Where two raw edges are to be sewed toraw edges should be turned down a small seam and
slanting stitches. gether, the
the edges thus formed held together the
The
selvages.
work
is
down
stitches should be very small
done from right to
Hemming. twice.
— The hem The
first
hem
is
is
turn
is
basted.
in the edge of the
and as small as
hem
is
Take the
to be it
and even.
when
The
side.
On
skirts
is
turned
stitch
if it is
which
where the hem
a piece of the goods cut just the
finished.
If
to be
hand work,
it
stitch first in the cloth, then
is
stitches slanting
taken in the cloth
should only take up one or two threads, so that
on the right
The
can be done with the
hem, and so on, making the
possible.
they were
always as narrow as possible, and
foot attachment, unless too wide, but
must always be
if
used to finish the edge and
put in on the machine
to be
as
left.
the second whatever width the
the
same
same curve
it will
too
not show
full to
turn up,
of the skirt
and the
is
Back STiTch
Over casTmo
Over Handing
CaT STÂ»Tchjnc
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
same way
of the cloth
sewed to the bottom
is
ing the facing the width the Stitch
of the skirt.
hem
is
to be
i$
of the skirt, hav
and on the right
and turn on the wrong
side
side
and fasten in
place.
Catstitching.
â€” This
is
used where the goods
is
too heavy to
Turn the hem up the desired width without having turned in the edge. Hold the work so that the hem will run away from you. Take a stitch first in the hem and then turn in twice.
in the goods, in the
hem
again and again in the goods, holding
the point of the needle towards
you and making the
stitches
cross each other so that they resemble a rail fence.
French Knots. purposes.
â€” These
about
it
knots used for decorative
through the goods, wind the thread
it
Hold the thread down
three or four times.
with the
little
Put the needle up through the goods from the wrong
Before pulling
side.
are
left
the same place where
to the needle
Put the needle down through
thumb.
it
came up
as possible.
as near
Draw down
so
that the knot looks smooth. Buttonholes. evenly.
â€” Buttonholes
They should be a
button.
It is a
should
be
cut very
scissors for cutting
thickness of goods should be used and
should be firmly basted together. it is
always
longer than the diameter of the
good plan to use buttonhole
More than one
them.
little
If the
it
material frays easily,
a good plan to stitch around the buttonhole before
it is cut.
Buttonholes should always be stayed before they are worked.
One way stitches
is
to overcast the buttonhole.
Another
is
to
form
Put the needle through from
about the buttonhole.
the under side, a few threads from the inside end of the buttonhole.
end
Draw
it
Put
through.
of the buttonhole
it
through again at the outside
very near the end and so the long stitch
thus formed will He close along the side of the buttonhole.
Repeat
this a
second time.
the buttonhole.
When
work towards the
left.
This
it is
will
form a bar of stitches about
worked, begin at the right end and
To make
the buttonhole stitch, put the
needle up through the goods a few threads from the inner end
French KnoTs
BoTTo.n
LyeleTS
Loop
Hole
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING Before pulling
of the buttonhole.
thread near the needle, throw
Repeat
this for
over the needle and pull through.
of the buttonhole
is
to
have the stitches
one length and perfectly even,
To Work Buttonholes on Lace. underneath where the buttonhole
— Place a piece of thin goods is
to be worked.
Cut the buttonhole through the
place. it
through, take hold of the
it
each stitch until you have been around the but
The beauty
tonhole. all
it
17
Baste into
and goods.
lace
has been worked, cut away the goods so that
it
After
will
not
show. Eyelets are small round holes punched in the goods with a
largely
They
and worked around over and over.
stiletto
are used
on shirtwaists, where one wishes to put buttons through
the goods so they can be easily removed.
Loops. ^— Take three or four stitches about 34 of an inch long
on top
of each other.
them
Buttonholestitch
covering the entire length.
together,
all
This makes a strong loop which
is
used to take the place of the metal eye where the metal would show.
— Seams are finished in various ways.
Finishing Seams. plain
seam
side has
The
simply stitched up and pressed open, after each
is
been thoroughly overcast.
Double Stitch Seam Instead of pressing
it
is
stitched the
open, press
it all
outside about 3^ of an inch from the
French Seam.
one
as the plain seam.
way and
Turn and
stitch
on the
first stitching.
— Stitch the seam on the right
close to the stitching. last stitching
same
stitch
side.
on the wrong
Trim off The
side.
should come just where the seam in the garment
should be. Strap Seam. edge.
— Make a bias band of the goods, turning in each
The band should be on a
true bias.
Stitch the
the right side, press open and place the bias carefully
and
stitch
very near each edge.
coat suits and skirts.
It
seam up on
band over
This
is
it.
Baste
used on coats,
makes a very neat trimming. The bias
band may be used any desired width.
—
f—
*
'.Silliii:
RiqhT
Side
wrono
.
French *Seam
STrap
^ .:..,..; 1
Side
Seam
Double STt'ched
<
f
.
{
i
'
K'W:.
[.
^\^r^^r \_
„— — Raw Lap 5ean\
5eam
:
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
19
— Place one edge of the goods
Raw Lapped Seam.
other and stitch very near each raw edge.
This
flat
on the
good
is
for
very heavy wool goods.
Cord Seam.
— Cover a small cord with the goods.
Turn
one side of the seam and baste the cord along the seam.
on the other
flat
seam and
side of the
stitch
in
Lay
on the right side
very near the cord.
— Stitch the seam as for a plain seam.
Seam.
Fell
Trim
edges one way.
raw edge
in the
off
of the
Turn both Turn
the under edge quite narrow.
down
one not trimmed and stitch
flat,
stitching as near the edge as possible.
Bias Bands.
up
— To cut bias bands, fold the corner of the goods
so that the
Make
length.
are to be and
Mark
off as
marks
lines
many bands
same
of the triangle are the
Measure
a crease.
draw
off
the width the bands
with a yardstick and
tailors'
change
will
chalk.
Cut on the
as needed before cutting.
carefully, as the least
the true bias.
made
two straight edges
throw the bands
Bias bands of thin material, like
silk,
off
should be
over crinoline before being used.
Milliners' Fold.
— This
used as a trimming.
is
Turn down one edge about
band.
}/£
Make
a bias
the width of the band.
Turn down the other about }4 of an mcn Turn the narrow edge half way up on the broad edge and blind stitch. 
Girdles.
may be to the
— A girdle should always be made on linen canvas.
hold up
be boned to
— Shirring may be done in two ways — Run the thread through the
goods with
stiff
Shirring.
The
girdle should
folds, just as the style
demands.
and smooth.
Plain Shirring.
very small and even stitches. until it
or
it
It
by a pattern to fit, or cut on a true bias and stretched figure. The goods may be put on full, plain, or in even cut
is
Push the goods up on the thread
Be
the desired fullness.
will lose its beauty.
at an equal distance apart.
Put
careful not to get
in as
Put
all
many
it
too full
threads as you wish,
the threads in before shoving
the goods up, and keep the fullness the same on each thread.
WWMMV
Bias
Bands
MUliner^
Fell
seam
Pol J
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
Tuck
Shirring.
â€” Instead
in plain shirring, take
wide.
Make other.
of just running the thread in, as
up a tuck each time about
Shove up on the thread the same as as
many
21
18 of
an inch
in plain shirring.
tucks as desired, equally distant from each
LESSON
II
UTENSILS NEEDED FOR SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
For your work smooth
large
in
sewing and dressmaking you
enough
table, large
will
to cut a skirt on, a
need a
good sew
The
ingmachine, an ironingboard and an ironingcushion. latter
you cannot buy but
will
have
to
make
for yourself.
Cut
a piece of heavy bed ticking 28 inches long and 18 inches wide.
Make
into a
it
two long until
bag by folding together and stitching along the
Cut
sides.
old wool
and cotton goods into small pieces Soak them
you have about four pounds.
thoroughly wet and then squeeze as possible.
Fill
the bag,
making
and soak the whole pillow into shape (about
and
much
very
in water.
coat.
it is
By
of the
solid.
While
like a loaf of bread).
a piece of white cloth, and of the waist
it
in
it
water until
water out as
Sew up the end is wet, pound it
When
dry cover with
ready for use in pressing
seams
all
using this cushion you will not lose
the curve of the seams.
Aside from the utensils mentioned you should have good pins
and
needles, a tracing wheel
buy
this at
and a pair
a book
and some
store), a yardstick,
of buttonhole scissors.
You
tailors'
chalk (you can
a good pair
of shears
should also have a good
papiermache bust form.
HOW
TO MAKE A PAPIERMACHE BUST FORM FOR ONE'S
OWN
DRESSMAKING do your own dressmaking you should fit up a bust form so that it will represent your own form exactly. To If
do
you wish
this
to
buy a good bust form your own bust measure. 23
Draft
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
24
a tight waist to your measure and have some one
fit it
very tightly, tighter than you could possibly wear
down about sure
it is
quite close together
where
it
does not
put on very smoothly.
Fill
fit
your waists on.
out until the lining
on
skirt the
were
this
form as well as
form
it off
and on fill
and shape
of the
little
fit
you
will
is
this
wish to use
it
to
form you can hang your
your waists.
Have him make
bottom
hard to hook
you might get your waist Of course
have to be on a standard.
will
can easily make you one.
board a
left soft
By placing a petticoat on
too tight. skirts
If it
ma
the back.
the form, with layers of cotton
It should be as hard as possible, as
on.
lining
down
Place this lining on your bust form, and by taking
fit
^Fit it
it.
Use a very heavy
perfect at every point.
in all places
you
the hips about 5 inches below the waist line and be
Sew hooks and eyes
terial.
to
of the form.
Any
for the
carpenter
a board just the size
Place four legs on this
longer than your skirt measure.
On
the bottom of
these legs fasten another board, large enough so that the standard will
not tip over easily.
Sew
four tape loops to the sides of your
bust form and put four brassheaded tacks in the edge of the top of the standard, leaving them out just enough to slip the
tape over.
This
will
you are working on
it
;
keep the form from slipping at the
off
same time you can remove
the standard whenever you wish.
You
will find
it
while
from
a bust form of
this kind the most convenient thing you ever possessed.
LESSON
III
PLANNING THE GOWN
You
have learned the
We
dressmaking.
will
and
stitches
now
utensils used in sewing
and
take up the actual work of making
the gown.
Dressmaking
is
divided into four parts:
i.
Planning the gown.
2.
Drafting the gown.
3.
Cutting the gown.
4.
Finishing the gown.
We
will take
up the
first:
PLANNING THE GOWN
The
thing to be thought of in planning the
first
figure of the person for tall
whom
the
gown
and slender or short and stout?
settling these points,
we must
lines to
make
broken
lines, lines
her look
For a
garment.
broken so that
We must
gown
made.
Is she light or
decide what sort of a
The
tall.
dark?
is
the
Is she
After
gown would
it will
back width should be
look narrower.
also think of the coloring of the patron.
be used.
blue, olive green
the
slender person should have
running around, cutting up the length of the
cannot wear the same
may
tall
short, stout person the
colors.
The complexion,
and eyes must be considered.
when
to be
For a small person the gown should have long straight
be best.
shades
is
gown
is
For a
fair
All persons
color of the hair
complexion, lighter
For the sallow complexion, brown, dark
and black.
We
also consider the time
The garment
to be worn.
be heavier than for summer.
must
for winter should
For those who cannot afford a 25
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
26
For those who can afford
variety, dark colors should be worn.
cream, tan or light grey
it,
is
The garment
good.
for winter
should be more severe in lines than the fluffy thin garment for
summer
wear.
We must Whether
also
for a
know
for
what occasion the
we must now
points,
best fashion books to find our styles.
will
styles, as
you
will find that,
much
stay in style
Sometimes you
will
It
if
tactful
and
resort to the
never best to use
is
you do
your gowns
not,
longer.
have a patron who
will
choose from your
You must
books just the thing she should not wear.
you wish
be worn.
to
is
wedding, party, street wear or house.
Having considered these extreme
dress
learn,
if
be a successful dressmaker, to influence her, in a
to
way, to choose some other style more suited to her form
coloring.
In planning the twopiece street gowns, no rule can be given, except that they are always planned on more severe lines than
any other garment except the long
coat.
be planned according to the prevailing
Both
of these
must
style.
A
party gown must be planned very differently from a street
suit.
For a very formal party gown, low neck and short sleeves
should be used, except for young will
girls.
be found the most suitable.
every year but a few standard ones
such as Chiffons, Velvet
may
Silks of delicate colors
These goods change nearly
may be found on
the market,
Nets, CrepedeChine, Taffeta, Satin, etc.
always be used.
For young
girls, thin, soft
wool or
cotton goods are always good, such as Batiste, Crepe, Lawn, Taffeta and China silk
A
party gown
kind of a gown.
will
Velvet,
also
be used.
permit of more trimming than any other
Plaiting, shirring
good advantage on like
may
and tucking
light materials.
On
may
be used to
the heavy materials
Poplin or Brocade, heavy laces, appliques, jet
trimmings or embroideries should be used.
A gown for house wear, but for less formal wear gown, used
for afternoon receptions, dinners, etc.,
than the party
may
be
made
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
27
of heavier materials: Henriettas, Velvets, Broadcloth, Voile, All
Over Lace over
They
in color or dark.
Embroideries,
Silk,
are
They may be
etc.
made highnecked and with
light
longer
sleeves than the evening gown, usually reaching to the elbow, or half
way between
Or they may have long
the elbow and wrist.
Of course these garments must be planned according
sleeves.
to the prevailing style,
as the party gown.
which
trimming
will largely influence the
They should not be
as well as the material.
Sometimes a better
so heavily
trimmed
can be obtained
style
by just a little touch here and there than by placing a amount of trimming on the gown.
Now we
come
Every Day Gown:
to the
may
Almost any material
be used for
In planning this to be
this class of
gown, ex
These are too dressy.
cept transparent materials.
it is
large
gown we must consider the time of year when in what climate. Whether in the north or
worn and
south.
For some years past the
skirts
very popular, while they are
away from of the It
this style
same
is
with separate waists have been
still
we
largely used,
and are going back again
are breaking
to the full dress
material.
not best to suggest to your patron large
When
very slender figure can wear these.
Only a
figures.
they are used they
must be matched and usually cut all oneway of the goods thus necessitating the
buying
of a large quantity of goods.
small checks or tiny figures are best.
your gown
if
you put
in
caline or
with
it.
is
The waist
A
very heavy.
good quality
usually of per
If the
silk
goods
is
thin
enough
show the
to
the lining of the waist and skirt should
match
a dark shade of grey always looks well and If
is
makes the best lining. A drop skirt should match the gown or of some color which blends well
spun
be made to
goods
improve
a yoke of something light in color.
it
This seems to relieve the complexion. lined, unless the
Plain goods,
It will always
your patron wishes a
silk
lining
it
lining through,
in color.
it
will
If not,
not crock.
should be of a good
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
28
quality
Taffeta.
of
We
do not recommend
for
silk
waist
linings.
In deciding on the quantity of goods required for a gown, experience
Width
is
the best teacher.
of goods,
You must
think of three things.
whether single or double
fold,
and the
style of
the gown.
The measures
of the
of unusual size this
is
patron must be considered, but unless
not important.
to 9 yards of double width goods single width.
It usually takes
and from 14
The amount depends on how
full
from
5^
to 20 yards of
the gowns are
being made.
Do
not trust too
much
to
what the
clerk tells you.
They
are
apt to give small measure.
For the cotton lining ij^
5%
for the waist,
yds. for the drop skirt will be
with the style.
all
that
is
^ for the sleeves required.
and
This varies
LESSON IV THE CHART WITH WHICH THE DRAFTING
The
DONE
IS
chart consists of two pieces of cardboard, the edges of
form
which are cut
to
any garment.
The two
the different curves needed to draft
all
pieces are hinged together so that
swinging one about on the other, the longer curves
formed without using the long systems or charts used
methods
of drafting.
named according to its use and the ends of each lettered. The intermediate points in the curves which One corner of the chart is left a are also lettered.
Each curve curve are are used,
is
true square so that
When
point
G
is
it
may be used to
called for use
will cause the curve to fall
tions for the drafts
that the one line
One must form
To do pencil,
it
square one
any point
where
says, square
it
line
with another.
inside the brace
should.
one
line
When
which
in the direc
with another,
must be exactly perpendicular with
it
means
the other.
a right angle with the other.
the drafting one should be supplied with a good hard
an
eraser,
more convenient
and a good straight yardstick. if
as the yard length
the yardstick is
rather
The paper used may be draft.
by
may be in many
A
is
sawed
unhandy
of
any
It will be
found
about 27 inches,
to use.
size large
good quality manilla paper
29
off at
is
enough to take the
the best.
TK
The Chivi Closed
LESSON V HOW The ing.
to
taking of measures
If the
make
different If
TO TAKE MEASURES
a draft that will
most important part
is
The
fit.
from the drafting
one line
the
is
of draft
measures are not taken correctly one can never hope drafting of a garment
is
no
of a house, a bridge, or a machine.
inaccurate the entire draft will
come wrong.
cannot be too careful in taking your measures.
Above
all
You
things
do not hurry and do not get excited when taking measures. If the
person for
whom
the garment
is
being
made
does not
wish to give time for you to take her measures you should not try to
make
the garment for her.
Before you begin to take the measures, be sure that the patron is
standing squarely on both
The measures taken i.
are
:
feet.
â€”
Waist measure.
2.
Bust measure.
3.
Neck measure.
4.
Armhole measure.
5.
Under Arm measure.
6.
Upper Front measure.
7.
Back Length measure.
Back Width measure. 9. Front Length measure. 10. Arm Length measure. 11. Elbow measure. 8.
12.
Inside
arm measure from armhole
13.
Hand
measure.
14.
Front Length of
skirt.
32
to
bend
of arm.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
34 15.
Side Length of skirt.
16.
Back Length of Hip measure.
17.
Waist Measure.
skirt.
— Stand
in front of the patron.
Place the
tapeline about the smallest part of the waist.
Be
should be very tight.
This measure you have the smallest part of
sure
draw the measure
the waist, and
garment could be
as tight as a
worn. After taking this measure, place a cord or tape at least y% inch
wide about the smallest part of the waist and do not remove it
until
you are through taking measures.
have a piece of tape about
%
of
It is a
good plan
to
an inch wide to the end of which This can easily and quickly
has been fastened a small buckle.
be adjusted about the waist and stay in place nicely.
Bust Measure. line
— Stand back of the patron.
about the body under the arms and bring
center back.
Hold
it
it
together at the
firmly together with the right
step to the side of the patron.
the fingers and bring
Place the tape
it
down
Allow the tapeline to
hand and
slip
through
in front over the highest part of
the bust.
Keep
the back.
Allow the patron to draw a long breath and
tape
slip
it
well
up under the arms and
as she does this, so that
it
will
straight across let
the
be easy about the
body.
Neck Measure.
— Have the patron remove her
try to take the neck measure over a collar unless
the dress, then take
it
tightly
enough
collar; it is
never
sewed to
to allow for the collar.
Place the tapeline about the neck where the collar should sew on, is
and measure about as
tight as the collar
a good plan to ask the patron
what
would be worn.
It
size linen collar she wears.
This gives an idea as to whether you are getting your measure correct or not.
Armhole Measure.
— Take
up high where the arm
this
measure about the shoulder
joins the body.
over the high part of the bone.
Be
sure to take
it
up
This measure should be taken
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING tight, tighter
be cut out
seams have
The armhole can
than the armhole can be worn.
later,
to
but
comes too large
if it
be taken in to make
gave the waist
be
style will
sure the patron's sleeve
is
in the draft
it right,
Be sure
lost.
35
and
all
the
the good lines which
to take it tight
and be
not bunched up under the tapeline,
under the arm. Before taking the next measure, place a piece of tape or cord
about the patron so that very sure that
it
close
Be must
up under the arms.
runs just straight around the body.
not be allowed to dip
Do
comes
it
Draw
down anywhere.
It
rather tight.
it
not pay any attention to the prominent part of the bust.
Just have
it
perfectly straight about the body, close
up under the
arms.
Under Arm Measure.
— Take
the arm, from the top of this
line,
this
down to the bottom of Have the patron raise her
straight
the line at the bottom of the waist.
arm
just
way
up.
enough
to take this measure.
Upper Front Measure.
—
measure directly under
She must not
Place the end of
the
raise it
tapeline
exactly on the prominent bone at the back of the neck.
Bring
the tapeline around the side of the neck close up to the neck and straight
down
in front to the top of the line
around the body under the arms. line
down
Be
which was placed
sure that
you bring the
exactly straight from the side of the neck.
It
must
not slant towards the back or front.
Back Length Measure.
— Place
the end of the tapeline on
the prominent bone at the back of the neck and measure straight
down
the back to the bottom of the line about the smallest part
of the waist.
must not
Be
sure to take this measure straight down.
slant to right or left.
It
Stand directly back of the patron
to take this measure.
Back Width Measure. back about the middle ure wide enough.
patron has on.
— This
measure
of the armholes.
Be
is
sure to get the meas
Do not pay any attention Measure out
to
taken across the
to the
garment the
where the arms join the body.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
36
Both arms should be measure
is
down
straight
at the sides,
— Place
Front Length Measure.
the end of
just where the neck should finish in front
down
Do
the tapeline
and measure straight
not draw this measure
you want the waist
the front of the
to set
when
— Place
Arm Length Measure.
arm where
the
arm
Elbow Measure.
— Take
arm out this
it
finished.
body about on a
joins the
straight
When
to the creases about the wrist joint.
have the patron stretch the
Make
tight.
the end of the tapeline at
Measure
straight line with the thumb.
down
the
arm
taking this measure
at right angles to the body.
measure around the arm at the
elbow with the arm bent at right angle. is
this
the front to the bottom of the line about the smallest
part of the waist. just as
when
taken.
Be
sure the tapeline
over the point of the elbow. Inside
this
Arm Measure from Armhole
to
Bend
of
Arm.
— Take
measure from the same point you did the arm length meas
down to the inside of the elbow. Have the patron bend her arm so that you can locate the exact stoppingplace. Hand Measure. This measure is taken about the hand with the fingers held straight out and the thumb close against the hand. Take this measure just snug, not tight. Front Length of Skirt. Take this measure from the lower
ure
—
—
edge of the tape about the waist line at the exact middle of the front of the skirt, straight floor.
When you
wish from
down
the front of the skirt to the
cut your pattern you can take
this length.
It
is
off
what you
best to take this measure to the
floor, for it is difficult to tell just
where to stop
in taking it
any
other way. Side Length of Skirt.
— Take
this
measure from the lower edge
way between the middle front, straight down the side
of the tape about the waist line, half of the
back and the middle
of the
of the skirt to the floor.
Back Length
of
Skirt.
— Take
this
measure from a point
at the middle of the back, at the lower edge of the tape about
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
38
the waist
straight
line,
down
the middle of the back to the
floor.
â€” Take
Take Hip Measure. below the waist hips.
If
line, straight
this
the skirts are being
should be taken snug.
measure about
5 or 6 inches
around the prominent part
worn very
tight this
If the skirts are full
of the
measure
take the measure
just easy. If
will
you are
careful in taking these measures, your
need very
little fitting,
have perfect forms. inches, so it correctly.
is
bound
perhaps not any.
The method to come right
Few of us, however,
of drafting if
garments
is
worked out in
the measures are taken
LESSON VI DRAFTING THE SHIRTWAIST
Measures used
i.
2.
for draft given
:
â€”
Waist measure Neck measure
25
inches
13^
inches
Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Upper Front measure Front Length measure Under Arm measure
15
inches
39
inches
13^ 10^
inches
15
7^
inches inches
inches
Draw line AB length of Back Length measure. From A measure on line AB Under Arm measure.
Mark
this point C. 3.
4.
At C square a line with line AB. From C measure on this line
% of Bust measure.
this point 5.
Mark
D.
From C on
line
E
At
7.
From E on
of
Back Width measure.
square line with line CD. this line
measure
13
of
Armhole measure.
this point F.
8.
Measure
9.
At
10.
CD measure Yi
this point E.
6.
Mark
Mark
Y inch above point B. 2
Mark
this point G.
G square a line with line GA. From G on this line measure ij^ inches. Mark
this point
H.
n. Place point
on the chart at point
B and draw
curve
through H. 12. With curve DC on the chart draw a curve through and F.
39
H
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
40 13.
point 14.
Mark
Extend
F Y2
curve beyond point
this
Mark
inch.
this
I.
From E measure on
line
CD 34
Armhole measure.
of
this point J.
Mark
this point
2^ inches. Mark
this point
15.
Find a point half way between J and E.
16.
At point J square a
line
17.
From J on
measure
18.
Place point
K. this line
with
line
DC.
L.
G
on the chart at point
I
and draw curve
through K. 19.
L and draw
on the chart at point
Place point
curve
through K.
1% inches. Mark
EF up
20.
Extend
21.
At point
22.
From
23.
Place point
24.
Measure curve IH.
25.
From
26.
Square a
27.
Measure from
line
this point
M.
M square a with line EM. M on this line measure inches. Mark this point line
2
N.
F on
the chart at
L and draw
curve through
N.
N measure the length of line IH.
Mark
this point
O.
with
line
DC
so that
it will
pass through point
O. line
DC on
this line,
less
what
is
used in the Back Neck.
From
point
P
measure down 34
measure
the
Upper Front
Mark
this point
P. 28.
of
neck measure.
Mark
this point Q. 29.
From Q measure up Y2
30.
At
31.
On
add 34 32.
P.
R
this line
inch.
inch.
Mark
this point
R.
square a line with line QR.
from
Mark
R
measure
16 of
Neck measure, and
this point S.
Place point J on the chart at S and draw curve through
S'HIRT
WAIST DRAFT.
WV V
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
42
From
33.
Mark 34.
Arm
E
point
this point
on
line
CD measure
1
inch to the
At T square a line with line CD and draw length
Mark
measure.
left.
T.
this point
U measure
35.
From
36.
Place point
B
1
of
Under
U.
Mark
inch to the right.
on the chart at point
T
this
point V.
and draw curve
through V.
Mark
37.
Measure
38.
Place point
B
W. Draw From
from S through D.
1
inch to
left of
U.
this point
on the chart at point
T
W.
and draw curve
through 39.
40.
a
line
S measure Front Length measure.
point X.
In cutting pattern allow
all
seams.
Mark
this
LESSON
VII
DRAFTING THE SHIRTWAIST SLEEVE
Measures used Arm Length Arm Length
for draft given
â€”
measure to
20
Elbow
Elbow measure
inches
2%
inches
8
inches
15
inches
1
Hand measure Armhole measure
inches
<p>ÂŁ
Draw line AB Arm Length measure. 2. From A on line AB measure Arm Length Mark this point C 3. At B square a line with line AB. 4. At C square a line with line AB. i.
A
5.
At
6.
From B measure on
7.
From C measure on
8.
Extend
to
Elbow.
square a line with line AB. inch.
Mark
this point
% inch.
Mark
this point
drawn
line
1
D. line
drawn
E. line
drawn
at A,
i
inch to the
Mark
left.
this
point F.
Place point
9.
D
on the chart at F and draw curve through
E.
E
and
D
10.
Connect points
11.
From
D
measure
12.
From
G
measure to the right
1
with a straight
inch to the right.
line.
Mark
this point
G.
hand measure. 13.
The
From
Mark
this point
H measure to
distance between
D
the right
and
1
G and H 43
2
inches
more than the
H. inch.
and
Mark
this point I.
I is for gathers.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
44 14.
From E on
drawn measure Yi mcn
line
to the right.
Mark
this point J. 15.
From J measure
16.
From
the
Elbow measure.
Mark
this point
Mark
this point
K.
K
to the right
measure
}/%
inch.
L. 17.
Connect points
18.
From
Mark 19.
A
this point
From
L and
measure on
I
by
straight line.
drawn the Armhole measure.
line
M.
M measure to the right
Mark
2 inches.
this point
N.
A
2Y2 inches. Mark this point 0. 21. Square a line with line AB at point 0.
20.
Extend
22.
From A on
line
AB above line
AN measure i%
Mark
inches.
this
point P. 23.
From
M measure 3
inches to the
Mark
left.
this point
q. 24.
where 25.
where 26.
At P square a
line
with
line
this line touches the line
At
Q
square a line with line
this line touches the line
AN and mark
the point
R
from point 0.
AN and mark
the point S
from O.
Place point
D
on the chart at
Place point
G
on the chart at point
L and draw
curve through
N. 27.
R
and draw curve
through point F. 28.
F on the chart at point S and draw a curve M. Continue the curve to point N. Find the point half way between P and Q. Mark this
Place point
through point 29.
point T. 30.
from
of
T
Using
R
as a center
and TR
draw an arc
to S.
31.
Find a point half way between
32.
From
this point
an inch long. 33.
as a radius
Connect
Mark
U
G and H.
square a line with line BI and draw this point
with I and
D
%
U. using curve
CD on
the chart.
5"
fiirt
Waist Sleeve.
s_
1?
/ ty P
\
5'
T
I
a
AV
â€”7/v
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
46 34.
The
cuff is drafted straight.
hand measure and curved
if
Two
3 inches wide.
desired.
In cutting pattern allow
all
seams.
inches longer than the
The lower
corner
may
be
LESSON
VIII
DRAFTING THE BLOUSE WAIST
The
made
only changes
blousewaist
are â€”
in the shirtwaist to
i.
Change the Under Arm seam from
2.
Draw both
the
front, a straight slant 3.
Under Arm seam from
The one through
and the one through
W
V
is
is
the
the
5.
Add
7.
K.
for the
back and the
Under Arm seam
Under Arm
Slant the middle back out
ish
to
the
K through V and W.
4.
6.
T
make
for the front
of the back.
i]4, inches.
4 inches to the bottom of the waist for blouse.
Hem the bottom with a narrow hem and run an elastic in it. Cut away the front to a V shaped opening, line b, and fin
neck with a large
sailor collar.
47
LESSON IX HOW
TO CUT THE SAILOR COLLAR, OR ANY LARGE COLLAR
Many time, so
people draft the sailor collar but
we
one which
will
will
much
teach you a
not
fail to fit
it
takes considerable
quicker and simpler
the garment for which
After the draft of the waist has been
it is
way and
intended.
made and the pattern Be sure to pin
cut from paper, pin the shoulder seam together.
Spread the pattern out
right
on the
table
and place the center back on a straight edge
and pin
line of
each part.
collar is desired
the waist.
Draw
this line
the back.
Now
decide
down drawn
on the
Measure from the neck down the back the
in place.
depth the
flat
of the paper,
the front and
and square a
is
with the back
out as wide as the collar
how
draw a
to the point in front.
edge of the collar
line
you wish the
far line
to
best
way
be across
collar to extend
from the end of the
The
to cut the
is
line of
line just
to shape the outer
neck portion and then pin the
pattern to the bust form and cut the edge any shape desired.
You can see in this way just how the collar will look when ished. Any lay down collar may be cut in this way.
49
fin
/
How
To Cut
The S&ilor Collar
\ \
\
Lar{â‚¬ Colli v.
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LESSON X HOW To make
the
TO DRAFT THE KIMONO WAIST
kimono
Trace
waist.
Cut
waist on another piece of paper.
off
the draft of the shirt
out, allowing
seams every
Pin the back pattern to the front at the shoulder seam
where.
and spread out
flat
on the
place the pattern on of the paper.
This
the neck out so that
it will
back
lines
will
and
on a straight edge
line
Draw
bias.
divide the
The back part
Draw two
large sheet of paper
having the front
it
will bring the
nearly equal parts. the front.
Take a
table.
a line from
Armhole into two very be a
beginning about
\
little
smaller than
x
/i inches below the
Armhole on the under arm seam almost parallel to the line just drawn. They should come together very slightly towards
Draw
the ends.
these lines as long as
and connect them with a of the waist.
It
more than elbow are
much
is
length, as
it is difficult
be
make
the sleeves
to raise the
arm
much
if
they
longer.
with seams on the right it
sleeve to
This forms the sleeve
straight line.
never best to try to
In basting up the kimono waist,
After
you wish the
has been thoroughly
narrow seam so that These waists
it will
may
lining
should always be basted
fitted,
it is
tried
fitted.
French seam with a very
be as fancy as one wishes, having tucks
For a dress waist they are often
having a sewed in sleeve.
freedom in raising the arm, and the sleeve out under the arm.
on and
turn well.
or shirring over the shoulder.
made with a
it
side until after
is
This gives more
not so liable to tear
For the Kimono ShirtWaist the sleeve
should be quite loose.
51
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LESSON XI THE MAKING AND FINISHING OF THE SHIRTWAIST
You
have learned
Waist Sleeve.
We
to draft the ShirtWaist
will
now
and the
Shirt
take up the making and finishing
of the shirtwaist.
After the draft has been made, trace
off
each part of the waist
Cut out, allowing seams everywhere.
on another piece of paper.
This gives you an exact pattern to use in cutting out the waist. Before using cotton goods
warm water is
Put
all plaits
enough
to cut
Place in
If the
press.
goods
salt in the water.
and tucks
If there is
pattern.
when nearly dry
over night and
colored put some
should be shrunk.
it
in the goods before laying
on the
no up or down to the goods, a piece long
may
both fronts
be cut
off
and the two tucked
at once. All trimming should be put on after the waist
before If
it is
cut out but
basted up.
the waist
the front.
is
is
to be tailor
To make
this,
made,
it will
have a box
plait
cut a straight strip from the edge of the
goods wide enough to allow for turning under. be just the length of one side of the front.
This piece should
Baste the piece on
the edge of the cloth from which the right side front cut,
and
stitch J^ inch
must be planned If
you only want
cut
off for fronts
Measure on each
to
from both edges.
come
to tuck
(See
111.)
at the right distance
is
to be
Your tucks
from
this plait.
yoke deep, fold the goods you have
together in the center crosswise. part,
down
from the fold down, just
(See
111.)
how deep you
wish the yoke to come and tuck between the marks. If
you wish the tucks
to
grow shorter towards the armholes, 53
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
54
mark
To put
the goods slanting.
in the tucks, fold the cloth
lengthwise just where you want the tucks to come. the width
you want the tucks and put
When you
fold the goods together to cut the fronts, be
sure that the tucks for each piece
Cut from the goods, marking Baste up and try on.
draw a
circle.
all
lie
exactly on top of each other.
seams with the tracing wheel.
Baste on the collar band, after stitching
To
cut the collar band
Take a
radius of 10 inches.
the seams of the waist. line to
in with a running stitch
Press the tucks before you try to cut the
or on the machine. waist.
of the paper for the center of the circle
Measure
inch apart.
circles i
Measure
use your tape
:
Use the corner
and draw parts
of
two
enough length, from the edge
off
of the paper on the lower circle, for
^ the neck measure.
Cut
out the pattern and allow seams on both sides when you cut
from the
To
finish the
Make
bottom
of the shirtwaist sleeve,
a cuff of three thicknesses of goods,
interlining of cotton,
if
wool,
3^
a
WV about 4 inches.
strip of
edges (see
Lay
if
if
tailor
made.
cotton, or with
an
inches wide and ioj^ inches
Slash the sleeves up on
long, straight of the goods lengthwise. line
it
cloth.
Baste on the under edge of this opening
goods about ij^ inches wide, having turned in the 111. 1)
so that
it
projects from the opening.
the sleeve on the table right side up, and place over this
piece just sewed on a piece about
2^
inches wide which has
been folded in the middle lengthwise and both edges turned in.
Place the lengthwise fold of this piece so that
The upper turned
it
just covers
come on the right side of the sleeve and the under edge on the wrong side of the sleeve just opposite the other. Baste into place and the under seam.
It looks best to finish the
stitch.
comes on the right
seam
upper end of
(See
Ills.
Gather the bottom, leaving
plain.
this piece,
side of the sleeve, to a point.
the point on the machine. sleeve.
in edge of the piece will
1
i^
and
2.)
which
Stitch about
Stitch
up the
inches each side of the
Baste the pieces of the cuff together wrong side
out, leaving one long side open.
Turn and baste the edge on
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
55
the right side, having the edge very smooth and even. the open side to the
of the cuff
bottom
about
Baste
having the shortest part come on the
of the sleeve,
under side of the
Notch
inch from the center.
1
sleeve.
In basting to the sleeve have the right side of the cuff against
Only baste two
the right side of the sleeve. of
which the
cuff
is
lining
made, at the
Turn
or lining, loose.
and baste
in place.
Stitch
right side very near the edge.
about
2
inches from the
basting, leaving the third,
all
turn in the edge of the
four sides of the cuff on the
Gather the top of the sleeve from
seam on the upper
from the seam on the under after having tried
first
down and
the cuff
Sew
side.
on the waist
of the three pieces
in
and 5}^ inches
side,
and bind the armhole,
Work
for the last time.
a button
hole in each end of the neck band, one in the center of the
and one at each end the front
if
wishes.
Some
desired.
left loose so
waist
is
of the cuffs.
back
They may also be worked down
Finish the bottom of the waist as the patron
like the fullness stitched in, while others
that they can place
it
want
it
where they wish when the
worn.
The fancy shirtwaist should fasten in the back instead of the front. The same draft is used. It may be tucked yoke deep across the front and down the back, tucked in clusters with insertion of lace or embroidery
between or any sort
of
ornaments
placed on the front.
In making collars and yokes of lace insertion, cut a correct pattern from white paper. stitch together
and
collar just the desired shape.
must be placed
goods before
in the
For the fancy waist the sleeves wishes.
this
Tear the paper away and you
on the machine.
have your yoke and All tucks
Baste the rows of lace on
They may be
may
be
it is
made
cut.
as fancy as one
short or long as the style demands.
the short sleeve, the draft given
may
For
be used by laying a plait
lengthwise in the pattern thus taking out the gathers, leaving
only a few at the armhole.
from
this
A Leg
same draft by laying a
O'Mutton
sleeve
may be made
plait lengthwise beginning at
CotUvr B<xy\A
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING the bottom and letting shirtwaist
draft
is
it
out gradually towards the top.
used
to
Combined with the seven gored suit.
make skirt it
the
shirtwaist
makes a
57
The dress.
fine shirtwaist
LESSON XII DRAFTING THE TIGHT WAIST WITH BACK FORMS
Measures used
â€”
for draft given
Waist measure
25
Neck measure
i3>ÂŁ inches
Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure
i. 2.
inches
15
inches
39
inches
13K
inches
7^4 Inches
Draw line AB length of back. From A measure the Under Arm
15^
inches
io<4
inches
16
inches
measure.
Mark
this
point C. 3.
Measure up from B J^
DE
4.
Square
5.
D
6.
Place point
to
line
E
is i]/2
with
Mark this point D. DC at point D.
inch.
line
inches.
on the chart at point
B and draw
curve
through point E. 7.
At C square a
8.
From C on
line
with
this line
line
AB.
measure Y2 of Bust measure.
Mark
this point F. 9.
From C on
line
CF measure J^
of
Back width. Mark
this
point G. 10.
At
G
square a line with
line
CF.
From point G measure on this line 13 Mark this point H. 12. Place I half way between G and H.
11.
ure.
59
of
Armhole meas
.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
60 13.
With curve DC on
the chart,
draw curve through
E
and H. 14.
point
Extend
GH above
line
At J square a
16.
From J on
17.
18.
long. 19.
Mark
inches.
this
J.
15.
Mark
H 1%
point
G
Measure from this point
Square a
Mark
with
line
line GJ.
measure
this line
on
line
Mark
inches.
2
CF J4
this point
K.
Armhole measure.
of
L.
L
line at
with
CF and draw 2Y2 inches
line
M. half way between L and
this point
Find a point
Mark
G.
this
point N. 20. 21
Extend curve EH Y2 inch beyond H. Place point G on the chart at the end of
the chart to the 22.
23.
O
Place point
through
left,
left,
M
on the chart at point
Place point
F on
Measure the
distance from 25.
M and draw a curve
and N. the chart at point
and draw curve through points
24.
this curve, holding
and draw a curve through point N.
K
Square a
length of curve
full
on line
KO.
line
with
line
Mark CF
M,
holding chart to the
M and K. EH and mark
the same
this point 0.
so that
it
will
run through
point O. 26.
Measure up on
Upper Front measure
Mark
this line
less
what
from
is
line
CF the length
of
used in the back of the neck.
this point P.
27.
With curve DC on the chart draw a curve through P and
28.
From P measure down
K.
Y of Neck measure.
Mark
this
point Q.
Q
29.
Square a
30.
Measure from Q,
inch. 31.
P.
Mark
line at
this point
with
line
PQ.
16 of the
Neck measure and add \i
R.
Place point J on the chart at
R and draw a curve through
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 32.
Measure on
RF
line
61
Mark
the Front Length measure.
this point S.
with
33.
Square a
34.
Measure down on
Mark
line
line
CF
this
at point
N.
Under Arm measure.
line
the
AT
% of an inch.
this point T.
a line from
T
to A.
A
on
line
35.
Draw
36.
Measure from
Mark
this
Mark
this
point U. 37. 38.
point 39.
Draw
line
BU.
Find a point half way between
T
and U.
W. From
W measure
point
Mark
to the right 2}^ inches.
this point V. 40.
I
Place point
F on
the chart at a point
and draw with curve FC on the 41.
Place point
D
% of an inch below through V.
chart, a curve
on the chart at the point where curve IV
CF and draw curve through point W. Measure towards the right from T on line AT
crosses line 42.
Mark 43.
N
this point
1
inch.
X.
With curve DC on
the chart
draw a curve through points
and X. 44.
From
this point
45.
point
Place point
through points 46.
T measure
towards the
left
i}4 inches.
Mark
Y.
B on
N and Y,
Place point
C on
N
the chart at point
and draw curve
holding the chart to the the chart at S and
left.
draw curve through
Y. 47.
From
point S measure towards the right
1
inch.
Mark
this point Z.
48.
Place point
through 49.
point 50.
B on
the chart at point
F and draw
curve
Z.
From Z towards
the right measure
1%
inches.
Mark
this
a.
To find out how much
to take out in the darts,
the tapeline Yi of Waist measure.
â€” Find on
Place this point at U.
Now
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
62
U
measure from which
falls
Mark
is
always
52. 53.
c
d and 54.
is
55. tall
to
b
made
is
to e is
half
larger than the
From
we
leave
The
In this case 3 inches.
width of back dart.
In this case
way between a and b and
half
f is
2
inches.
way between
c through a point
on the shoulder
line 1 inch
from
line.
Measure up on
(8 ins. is
this line,
from point
8 inches for a
c,
Mark
this point g.
used in this draft.)
From
point g measure towards the right 3 inches exactly
Mark
parallel with line CF. 57.
i
back one.
width of front dart.
person and 6 inches for a short person.
56.
to
inch.
in darts, less the space
which should be about
d),
measure
is left
distance from this point
e.
draw a
P,
is
From a From d
The
Place the point
to a.
and with what
what must be taken out
front dart
and Z
this point.
between the darts (b to
51.
X
to
Y
at a, at point
wards point Z. to a
W
to V,
With curve CD on
this point h.
draw curves
the chart,
ag, bg, hd,
eh.
58.
Measure down from points U, T,
59.
Connect points
U
and
f,
c,
and
Z, 5 inches.
i.
From a point half way between V and W, square a line with line AT and draw 5 inches long. Mark this point j. 61. Connect point j with V and j with W, with straight lines. 62. Extend line NT down 5 inches. Mark this point k. 60.
63.
Connect point k with X.
64.
Measure
65.
Place point
through 66.
to the right of k,
F on
the
inch,
1
chart
at
Y
this point
1.
and draw curve
1.
Make
the distance from
than from e to d and a to
m
to
n and o
67.
Connect a and e with a straight
Draw
69.
Connect
line
Zq straight down
m and
e,
â€” In drafting
to
p about
%
less
b.
68.
Note
mark
n and
any
d,
line.
5 inches.
o and b, p and
of the waists
a.
below the waist
line,
Ti$li Waist Dri}h
Wii
h
Back P
V//7n
F^r
>rx.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
64 it will
be found necessary to change the measures for different
persons.
Some who have very
large hips, while hips.
some with
small waist measure will have
large waist
measure
will
have small
Use the hip measure and change each measure a
little
so
that the draft 5 inches below the waist line will be the exact hip measure.
In cutting out the Armhole of any waist, remember that you took the measure tighter than cut out more than the draft.
it
could be worn, so
it
must be
See dotted line on draft.
In cutting the pattern from the draft allow seams everywhere.
.
LESSON
XIII
DRAFTING THE WAIST WITHOUT BACK FORMS
Measures
used in draft given
â€”
Waist measure Neck measure Armhole measure
25
15
inches
Bust measure
39
inches
Back Width measure Under Arm measure
13^
inches
72< inches i$}4 inches
Front Length measure
Upper Front measure Back Length measure
2.
Draw line AB From B to D is
3.
At
4.
On
i.
inches
i$}4 inches
10^
inches
16
inches
length of back.
J^ inch. square a line with line AB.
D
measure from point
this line
D
ij^ inches.
Mark
this
point E. 5.
on the chart at point
Place point
B and draw
curve
through E. 6.
At point C square a
7.
On
Mark 8.
measure from point
this line
From
C
Yi the Bust measure.
point
Mark
On
C on line CF measure J^ of back width. Mark
G.
At point
10.
11
with AB.
this point F.
this point 9.
line
G
square a line with line CF.
this line
this point
measure from G,
13 of
Armhole measure.
H.
Place point
D
on the chart at
E
H and extend curve Y2 inch beyond H. 6s
and draw curve through
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
66
Measure on
12.
34 inches.
Mark
CF measure 34 Armhole measure.
Mark
GH, from point H,
line
i
this point I.
From G on
13.
line
this point J.
Find a point half way between J and G.
14.
Mark
this
point L.
At point J square a line with line CF. Measure on this line from J, 2^ inches.
15. 16.
Mark
this
point
M.
G
Place point
17.
on the chart at the end
of curve
EH and
draw a curve through point L. 18.
Place point
O on the chart at M and draw a curve through
19.
Place point
F on
the chart at
20.
Extend
IK
to the left of
L.
M and draw a curve through
K.
On
21.
from
E
line
this line
measure from
extended through H.
22.
Square a
23.
Measure on
with
line
line
K.
K the same length as the curve
Mark CF
this point
so that
N.
it will
pass through
N.
24.
this line from line CF the Upper Front Back Neck measure. Mark this point O. With curve DC draw a curve through K and O.
25.
From O measure down 34
measure,
less
the
Neck measure.
the
Mark
this
point P. 26.
At P square a
27.
On
this line
and add 34
inch.
line
with line OP.
measure from P,
Mark
30.
Mark 31. S.
Draw a On this this
Neck measure
this point Q.
Place point J on the chart at point O. 28.
29.
16 of the
straight line from
Q
Q
and draw curve through
through F.
measure from Q, the Front Length measure. point R. line
Find a point half way between J and L.
Mark
this point
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 32.
33.
At point S, square a line with Measure on this line from
measure.
Mark
CF the Under Arm
line
this point T.
T
and
A
with a straight
Connect
35.
From
36.
Connect
37.
Find a point half way between
measure on
U
line.
this line 1 inch.
Mark
this point 17.
and B.
inch to the right of this point. 38.
CF.
line
34.
A
67
C on
Place point
Mark
U
and
T
and measure
J^.
this point V.
V
the chart at
and with curve CF on
the chart, draw a curve through point G. 39.
From V measure
1
inch to the
Mark
left.
this point
W. 40.
G and draw a curve through
Place point
B on
Measure
inch to the right of T.
the chart at
W. 41.
1
Mark
this point
44.
With curve DC on the chart draw a curve from X Measure ij^ inches to the left of T. Place point C on the chart at X, and draw curve
45.
Measure from
42. 43.
much
of the
46.
From
47.
Place point
U to V and from W to X.
to
X. S..
to S
This shows
how
Waist measure has been used in the back.
R
measure to the right
}/&
Mark
inch.
this
point
Z.
line
A
on the chart at Z and draw curve touching
FR.
48.
From
point
Y
measure towards point Z what
the Waist measure after taking out what
Mark 49.
Measure the distance from
2
51.
used in the back.
We
will
make
this point to Z.
in darts to bring the
proper Waist measure, in this case
one
This gives
garment
in to the
4% inches.
the Front Dart
2%
inches and the back
R
and draw curve CF
inches.
Place point
C on
the chart at
through Y. 52.
of
this point.
what must be taken out
50.
is
is left
From Z measure
2
inches.
Mark
this point a.
.
.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
68
53.
2%
From a measure
Mark
inches (Front Dart).
this
point b. 54. 55.
56. 57. line
From b, measure 1 inch. Mark this point c. From c measure 2 inches (Back Dart). Mark this point d. Find a point half way between a and b. Mark this point e. From a point 1 inch to the right of O draw a straight
through
58.
and 6
e.
From
measure up on
e
for a short person
this line 8 inches for a tall
person
Mark
(we use 8 inches in this draft).
this point f 59. With curve DC on the chart draw a curve from and from f to b.
60.
Find a point half way between
61.
Measure from
c
and
Mark
d.
f
to
a
this point
g
and
3 inches to the right
f,
parallel to
Mark this point h. 62. Draw a straight line connecting h and g. 63. With curve DC on the chart connect h and d and h and c. 64. To form the bottom of the waist. Measure down 5 inches from A. Mark this point Connect
line
CF.
â€”
i.
U
and
i
65.
Find a point half way between
with a straight
line.
V
and W.
At
this
point
square a line with line AT. 66. j.
Measure down on
Connect 67.
and V, and
j
Extend
line
Connect k and
X
and
ST down
Measure
69.
Place point
F on
70.
Extend
hg
1
j
W with straight 5
with a straight
68.
this point k.
line.
Mark
the chart at Y, and
down
this point
lines.
Mark
inches.
inch to the right of k.
line
Mark
this line 5 inches.
5 inches.
Mark
this point
1.
draw curve
this point
to
1.
m.
Using Y2 the distance from c to d as a measure and placing the middle of this distance at m, mark points either side of 71
mâ€”o 72.
and
n.
Connect n with d and o with
line ef
down
5 inches.
Mark
c
by
straight lines.
this point p.
Extend
Ti$M Waist
Wit A out
ri
#ac?(
}
t
Form
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
7o 73.
mark
With p points
r
as a center, using Y% the distance from a to b,
and
q.
75.
Connect r and a, and q and b with straight Extend curve Z straight down 5 inches.
76.
Connect a and d with a straight
74.
lines.
line.
â€”
Note For a person with a very large waist measure it is best to make the distance from b to c a little more, say ij^ inches, or even
2 inches.
This waist
seam
is
is
the best one to use for linings as the back form
apt to show especially where the goods
is
thin.
LESSON XIV DRAFTING THE WAIST WITH FRENCH FORMS
Measures used
in this draft
â€”
Waist measure
25
inches
Neck measure
isH
inches
Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure .Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure
i.
Draw
2.
Measure from
line
AB
'.
inches inches
13K
inches
7^
inches
15^
inches
io>^ inches 16
:
the length of
A
15
39
the
inches
Back measure.
Under Arm measure.
Mark
this
point C.
D
3.
B
4.
At
5.
Measure from
D
6.
Place point
on the chart at
7.
At C square a
line
F is 3^2 C From C on
Bust measure.
to
D
J^ inch. square a line with AD. is
on
this line
ij^ inches.
Mark
this
point
E.
B and draw
curve through
E.
to
8. 9.
Mark 10.
11.
12.
H.
with
line
AB.
CF measure Y2
line
of
Back Width measure.
this point G.
At G square a line with line CF. Measure on this line from point G,
Mark
ure.
of
this point
Place point
D
13 of
Armhole meas
H.
on the chart at
E and draw
Extend curve Y2 inch beyond H. 71
curve through
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
72 13.
Extend
14.
At
15.
On
GH above
line
H 1%
inches.
Mark
this
2 inches.
Mark
this point
point
I.
16.
Mark
I square a line with line GI.
measure from
this line
From
G on line
I,
CF measure 34
Find a point half way between
18.
At
19.
20.
Measure on
this line,
2^
inches from K.
Mark
this
M. Measure
length of curve
full
measure from J on 21.
Armhole measure.
K and G. K square a line with line CF.
17.
point
of the
K.
this point
line I J, extended.
G
Place point
EH and mark the same Mark this point N.
on the chart at point
H
and draw curve
through L. 22.
on the chart at
Place point
M
and draw a curve
through L. 23. J.
Place point
Place point
F on
D
the chart at
M and draw curve through
on the chart at
and draw curve through
CF
so that it will pass through
j
24.
Square a
with
line
line
point N. 25.
Measure on
measure,
less
this line
what
is
from
line
CF the Upper Front
used in the Back Neck.
Mark
this point
O. 26.
From
measure on
this line
34 the Neck measure.
Mark
this point P. 27.
At P square a
28.
Measure on
J4 inch. 29.
30. 31.
Mark 32.
Mark
line
with
this line
line
from
P
OP. 16 of
Neck measure.
Add
this point Q.
Place point J on the chart at Q and draw curve through 0. From Q draw line through F.
From Q on this point
this line
measure the Front Length measure.
R.
At L square a
line
with line CF.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 33.
Mark
Measure on
this line
L
from
the
73
Under Arm measure.
this point S.
34.
Connect S and
35.
From
A
on
A
with a straight
this line
measure
line.
% oi an mcn
Mark

this
point T.
T
B
and
36.
Connect
37.
Measure on the shoulder curve
Mark 38.
this point
U.
left of this point.
From
line.
inches from the Armhole.
2
T
Find a point half way between
inch to the 39.
with a straight
V measure
Mark
and S and measure
J/ÂŁ
this point V.
Mark
i}ÂŁ inches to the right.
this
point
D
touch
W.
U
Connect
41.
Place point
line
UW. Draw
42.
Measure
W with a straight
and
40.
C on
V
the chart at
line.
and
let
point
curve.
to the right of S,
D
43. Place point
Mark
inch.
1
on the chart at
L
this point
X.
and draw curve through
X. 44.
Measure
45.
Place point
46.
Measure from
Mark
to the left of S ij^ inches.
A
on the chart at
Y
this point
Y.
and draw curve through
L.
how much 47.
T
of the waist
Measure from
to
W
and from
V
to
measure has been used
Y
towards
R
what
X.
This shows
in the back.
is
left of
measure, after taking out what was used in the back.
the waist
Mark
this
point. 48.
Measure the distance from
gives the
amount
R.
This
to be taken out in the dart to bring the waist
into the correct waist measure. 49.
this point to point
Place point
C on
In this case
the chart at
R
it is
4^ inches.
and draw curve through
Y, using curve CF on the chart. 50.
Measure from J on curve J0
51.
Measure from
52.
Connect a and Z with a straight
2
inches.
Mark
this
Z.
R 2^
inches.
Mark
this point a.
line.
point
Tiflt
Wnst wii^
Fve Nch
f.i
'e
Forms.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING Measure from a on
53.
line aZ 8 inches for
Mark
6 inches for a short person.
a
tall
75
person and
point aa.
this
54.
With curve DC on
55.
Measure
56.
Place point
57.
Find a point half way between a and
58.
Connect a and b with a straight
59.
At
the chart connect a with aa.
to right of a
4^ inches
(dart).
Mark
this point
b.
B on
the chart at aa
and draw curve through
b. b.
Mark
this point
c.
c square a line
Mark
inches.
with
line.
line ab,
and measure from
c,
5
this point d.
x Find /i the distance from a to b and with d as a center, mark points e and f.
60.
and b with a straight
61.
Connect
62.
Connect a and
63.
Extend
64.
Connect b and
65.
Extend
66.
Connect h and
67.
point 68.
e
line
line
f
with a straight
R
QR below
Y
line.
5 inches.
with a straight
AB below
T
line.
A
line.
Mark
5 inches.
with a straight
this point h.
line.
Find a point half way between
V
and W.
Mark
this
g.
Square a
g, 5 inches.
line at g,
Mark
with
this point
69.
Connect
W and
70.
Extend
line
71.
Measure
72.
Place point
73.
Connect
line
with a straight
i
LS below S
to the right of
F
at
X and
AS and measure down from
i.
j
line, also
5 inches. j
1
inch.
connect
Y and draw curve through k. with a straight
In cutting pattern allow
all
seams.
V
and
Mark this point j. Mark this point k.
line.
i.
LESSON XV HOW
We
TO CUT, FIT AND MAKE THE WAIST
have finished planning the gown, and have learned to
We
draft the different kinds of waists.
Cutting, Fitting and
After
Making
will
now
take up the
of the waist.
making the draft you should trace, with the tracing off on another piece of paper, and
wheel each piece of the draft
Y2 mcn seam should be allowed at the Armhole, Neck and Back Form pieces.
cut out each part allowing seams everywhere.
1
inch at the shoulder and
1^
inches at the
Under Arm seams,
much need not be allowed Be very at the back unless the waist is to be open there. CAREFUL TO MARK THE TRUE WAIST LINE ON EACH PIECE.
down
This
the back and at the front.
After the correct pattern has been cut from the paper, spread the lining out on a table.
Lay
the different parts of the pattern
on the lining to the best advantage to save cloth. Be very CAREFUL THAT THE TRUE WAIST LINE OF EACH PIECE IS ON THE straight of the cloth crosswise, so that they off
on the bias when
will
not stretch
Be sure to trace the true
finished.
WAIST LINE OF EACH PIECE BEFORE YOU PICK UP THE PATTERN, also trace all seams.
We now have our waist lining all cut out and are ready to baste it
up.
Begin by basting up the back seam,
in front,
the waist
not this seam will not be basted.
if
side forms next to the back, taking
seam where In basting
if
it is circling.
all
Last of
seams the pieces
at the waist line before
always be made
all
open
Next baste the
the second form seams.
must always be pinned together
you begin
full
to
care not to stretch the
to baste
and they should
to come out even at the armhole.
best to pin the seam the
is
It
is
always
length before you begin to baste. 77
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
78
Baste the darts in the front pieces, pinning the waist
Be very
der seams.
It will never
well
fit
and we are ready If
be very few,
you
if
to take
Now
do.
do not crush or
soil it.
the waist
basted
is
all
first fitting.
your measures correctly there should
any changes
if
lining,
to have our patron come for a
you have learned
shoul
careful not to lose the little curves in the
In basting the
shoulder seams.
line first.
arm seams and
After these are basted, baste the under
to
make.
many linings make at all. Of course
have put
I
on persons where there were no changes
to
is out of shape in any way, their lining must be fitted. Your patron has come to be fitted. Place the lining on her and pin up very carefully, following the tracing either in front
if
a person
or in the back as the case
To
fit
seam.
the waist. â€”
very
If
let out.
may be.
If the
neck
is
a
cut out a small
little tight,
open the shoulder seam a
tight,
way and
little
If the lining is too tight or too loose at the bust, it
should be taken in or
let
out at the under arm seam.
If the
waist draws from the neck to the armhole, open the shoulder
seam
and
at the neck
let
out in front.
Be
enough between the shoulders and that the armhole.
If it
sure the waist
it is
loose
not too loose at
take in the form seams a
is,
is
After the lining has been thoroughly fitted,
little.
all
the seams
should be stitched and pressed open on the pressing cushion, after they
have
all
been trimmed to about
seam Y2 inch below and above the waist
3^2
line.
inch.
Clip each
Be very
careful
not to stretch the seams or lose any of the curves in pressing. It
is
the curve which gives style to the waist.
We
are ready
now
of Featherbone.
to
bone the
Sometimes
real
lining.
Use the best quality
whalebone
is
used, but
it
has
grown very expensive and most dressmakers now substitute Featherbone.
It will take
silk
thread for stitching
will
make.
The
You can
quality of the
of the
gown
will
about
it in,
3 or 4
Use
yards of the bone.
and the longest
stitch
your machine
get the Featherbone in either silk or cotton.
gown
will
determine which to use.
determine just
how
far
The
style
below the waist
line
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING the bones should be allowed to run. outside the skirt,
and
it
gown
onepiece
of
below the waist
waist
is
to
be worn
should be boned /i inch at back and sides x
inch in front below the waist
1
If the
79
any
sort, the
If a princess
line.
gown
or a
bones should run 3 or 4 inches
In this case the waist should be fitted
line.
very snug about the hips, so that the ends of the bones
will
not
stick out.
The bones
The back
center bone should be 6 or 7 inches long above the
waist
each seam will be of a different length.
for
Each bone should grow
line.
arm seam.
shorter towards the under
This bone should be the shortest of
inches above the waist
line.
The bones
about an inch shorter than the dart so that front bone should be the
opens in the front there
all,
it will
waist
If the
be a bone of equal length on each
These bones should be run in the hem and
side of the front.
and not placed on the outside as on the seams.
stitched,
5
be
The
not show.
same as the dart bone.
will
about 4 or
for the darts should
If
the
waist opens in the back, the two bones should be run in the
hems will
back instead of in the
in the
front, then the front
bone
be stitched on the same as the others.
Cut the bones about ij^ inches longer than you want them. Rip the covering back from each end about bone
off.
^ inch and cut the
Turn the covering down over the end and fasten Pin the upper end to the seam where you
securely but neatly.
want will
it
to come,
come where
it
and spring the bone should.
The bones
and not between the
so that the lower
end
are placed on the inside
and the
outside.
Place
under the machine, holding the bone in place so that
it will
of the waist,
follow the seam.
The
lining
lining will stretch to the bone.
begin stitching at the top of the bone and
This leaves
1
all
stitched in,
when
hump
lining
and
the waist
draw the ends
right side of the waist
on the
Always
inch from the end.
inch of the bone loose at the upper end, and pre
vents the end showing are
1
it is
and
is
worn.
of the threads
tie securely.
finished.
No.
are best, black for dark colors
2
After the bones
through on the
Sew hooks and eyes
hooks and eyes with a
and white
for light colors.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
So
The hooks
are sewed on the righthand side of the front
the waist opens in front.
when
back they are placed on the
If in the
Pin the two sides of the lining together, being
lefthand side.
Mark with
sure that the true waist lines are even.
pins the
making them Both the hooks and eyes must be sewed
place where each hook and each eye should go,
about i J^ inches apart.
on the wrong enough
side of the lining, the eyes
to let the
hooks
If the
slide in.
coming out just far
gown
yoke, do not sew hooks and eyes where
to
have a fancy
this will
come, as the
is
we
get the outside ready to
We are ready now to cut the outside.
If this is to follow rather
we can
use the same pattern for
lining will be cut
place on
away
here, after
it.
closely the shape of the lining, cutting.
new
However,
if it is
to be very different,
pattern, always leaving the shoulder
front or back so that
and armhole the same
you wish
looks just as
it
In making
finished waist.
When
cut a
Pin the pattern to your bust form and shape the
as the lining.
of every kind
we must
must be put
this
it
to look in the
pattern for the outside,
in the
all fullness
paper pattern.
the pattern for the outside has been prepared, spread
the goods out on the table and lay
the pieces of the pattern
all
on, being careful to have the true waist line on the straight of the
goods crosswise.
Sometimes, however, small checks and plaids
are cut on the bias.
on a true bias
In
this case the true waist line
the waist opens in front, is
best to pin
used to cut the lining,
and use
In cutting the outside back the
of the goods.
The back
form pieces are not used.
all
if
not, then
all
is it is
the pieces of
this for a pattern
seams with
once, follow the lines
one piece,
cut in two pieces.
you sewed them
and before
made on one
and follow the pins with the chalk. line before
all in
if
It
for the
for cutting the outside back.
side,
tailor's chalk.
marking the true waist
cut
the back pattern, which are
lining, together just as
Cut the goods from the wrong
mark
should be
If
lifting the
two pieces are cut at
side with pins.
Run
pattern
Turn over
a thread in each piece
taking up the pattern.
When
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING the outside
line,
These are
der seams.
under arm seams together, beginning
cut, pin the
is all
with the true waist
and
These seams should be just fitting the lining
changes in
We
outside pattern.
Do the same with
baste.
the seams
all
8l
we have
like the lining, as,
in the outside.
we made any
if
we should have made
the same in the
on the pressing cushion.
on
larger than the form.
of the lining,
the under
Place the outside
and the under arm seams at the armhole
arm seam
Pin securely
of the lining.
armhole, being sure that the outside cut kimono,
it will
where the
When
collar
the outside
is
about the
all
smooth.
is
to
If the outside
not fasten anywhere to the lining, except
at the bottom of the waist. lining
out with soft
fill
Pin the shoulder seams in the outside to the shoulder
it.
seams
is
clipped
line.
place the lining on the bust form and it is
Press open
The under arm seams should be
above and below the waist
paper wherever
Trim
can therefore stitch these seams.
the seams to about 3^ inch and overcast each side.
Now
the shoul
Of course
waists fasten to the
all
sews on or at the bottom of a fancy yoke.
kimono
it
should be
blouse a
left to
little
under the arms to give freedom in raising the arms. Arrange fullness in the outside just as you wish Pin
finished. fitting.
Put
A very
it,
all
leaving the basting until you have had another
trimming in place while
and keep changing
you wish
it
to
it
a
when
Pin
little
thin
from the goods.
wash goods,
it
is
on the form.
made
being
Use little
If
of course it will not
is
it
looks just
this cloth as a
practice
the dress
have
to cut
on the bust form
to the lining
here and there until
finished.
With a you can cut any waist you see. to cut
it is
good way when a fancy waist
the pattern out of old cloth.
as
when
to be
it
you
is
pattern
will get so
being
made
a lining, unless
of
your
Some people wish their summer gowns made For this purpose we use a thin lining lawn. When
patron wishes one.
on a no
lining.
lining
is
used
it is
nearly always best to use the shirtwaist
pattern instead of the tight lining pattern. all
In this case arrange
tucks and fullness of every kind in your pattern.
Cut from
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING the goods.
Stitch
arrange fullness as
up the seams and place on the bust form to it should be when finished. These waists
must be made with a kind such as shirring, tucking,
Our waist
of fullness that
can be stitched
in,
etc.
ready for a second
we prepare come again.
while to
is
83
fitting,
but we
the rest of the gown, before
will lay it
away
we ask our patron
.
.
LESSON XVI DRAFTING THE COAT OR LINING SLEEVE
Measures used Arm Length Arm Length
for draft given
â€”
measure
bend Armhole measure Elbow measure to
20 of
Elbow
inches
g}4 inches 15
12K
,
Hand measure
8
inches inches
inches
Draw line AB length of Arm measure. 2. From point A measure on line AB length of Arm to bend Mark this point C. of Elbow. At C square a line with line AB 3 Mark this point D. 4. From C measure on this line 2 inches. i.
5.
Place point
D
on the chart at
D
and draw curve through
6.
Place point
D
on the chart at
D
and draw curve through
A.
B.
D
Mark this point E. Mark this point G. inches to left of E. Mark this point F. inch to right of points F and G. Mark these
7.
From
8.
Measure ij^ inches
9.
Measure ij^
measure J^ Elbow measure.
Measure J^ points H and I. 10.
n. At 12.
point
B
to right of E.
square a line with line AB.
Measure from B on
this line
Y2 of
Hand
measure.
Mark
this point J. 13.
14.
Measure J4 mcn to the right of J. Mark this point K. At K square a line with line BK and measure 1 inch
from K. 15.
Mark
this point L.
Connect points
L and B
with a straight
line.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
86
Measure
16.
to the left of
L
Mark
i}4 inches.
this point
M. 17.
Connect points
H and M with a straight line.
18.
Connect points
I
19.
Place point
F on
and
L with
a straight
the chart at
point J falls on line IL draw curve. 20. Place point F on the chart at
G
line.
and hold chart so that
;
J
falls
21.
on
HM
line
Measure the
so that
it is
draw
;
line
Connect
N and B
23.
At point
A
24.
F and
From
A
hold so that point
This forms the Elbow.
GL and extend
the line
Mark
the same length as line GL.
22.
Mark
curve.
with a straight
FM
below
this point
M
N.
line.
square a line with line AB.
measure on
this point
0.
25.
Measure
2
26.
Measure
27.
Extend
28.
At
R
29.
On
this line
30.
At point
31.
At point P square a
32.
Place point
Armhole measure.
this line 14, the
Mark
inches to the right of 0.
this
point
P.
inches to the
2
AB above
line
Mark
0.
left of
A 2^
inches.
this point Q.
Mark
this point
R. square a line with line RB.
measure from
R 1^ inches. Mark this point
S.
Q
square a line with line AP.
Mark
this
Mark
this point
point
T. line
with
line
AP.
U.
G
on the chart at
curve just touches line AP.
Draw
T
and hold
so that the
curve and continue
it
to
point A. 33.
Place point
34.
Using
G
on the chart at S and draw curve through
A.
Q
as a center
and QS as a
radius,
through points S and U. 35.
36.
Connect points Connect
U
and
T and F with a straight G with a straight line.
line.
draw curve
Coit Sleeve o
Lin in
$
v
Sleeve.
88
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
In cutting pattern allow Y2 mcn seams everywhere except on inside seam. One inch or more should be allowed here until after the sleeve has
inches from
A
to
been
U.
fitted.
Gather top of sleeve from iYz
LESSON XVII THE ONEPIECE TIGHT SLEEVE
To make of
the onepiece tight sleeve, trace off on another piece
paper the upper piece of coat or lining sleeve.
Lay piece
line
TF
of the
under piece on
and trace the under
line
and often the
arm
made It
for the outside.
it will
makes a
it
fits
has no seam at the
It is used for the lining of fancy sleeves
Where one wishes
be found useful.
of thin material
upper
of the
This makes a sleeve which
piece.
exactly like the coat or lining sleeve, but
back from the elbow up.
UG
It
is
good
to put tucks
around
for the lining of sleeves
where the seam would not look
fine lining for the
mousquetaire
89
sleeve.
well.
One fiece Ti$h
+
Sleeve
LESSON XVIII THE FLOWING SLEEVE
The
flowing sleeve
is
made from
the coat or lining sleeve as
Trace
on another piece of paper
the onepiece sleeve was.
TF
off
the upper sleeve.
Lay
xipper and trace
the under piece of the sleeve.
i.
off
line
Measure up from point
B
of the under
of the
upper
on
line
UG
of the
4^ inches. Mark
this point F. 2.
Measure from point
3.
Draw
inches beyond F. 4.
N 4 inches. E
a straight line through
Mark
Measure from
Mark this point E. and F and extend
it
3
this point I.
L on the under piece up 4 inches. Mark this
point G. 5.
Measure from B up
4^ inches. Mark this point H.
Draw a line through G and H and extend 3 inches beyond Mark this point J. 7. Mark the point where these lines cross K. 8. Place point C on the chart at I and hold chart so that curve CF touches line DA. Draw curve. 9. Place point C on the chart at J and hold chart so that curve CF touches line DA. Draw curve. 6.
H.
10.
Hold curve OJ on the chart
and IK.
Draw
so that
it
touches lines
In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere. sleeve
is
JK
curve.
The
flowing
sometimes used in dresses but more often in dressing
sacks and kimonos.
91
FJowin£
£ It ewe
LESSON XIX DRAFTING THE SLEEVE WITH THE TIGHT ELBOW AND LARGE TOP
Measures used
in draft given
Arm Arm
Length Length to bend Armhole measure
â€” 20
of
Elbow 1
Hand measure
2.
inches
15
Elbow measure
i.
inches
g}4 inches
Draw line AB length of Arm measure. From A measure length of Arm to bend
of
2%
inches
8
inches
Elbow.
Mark
this point C. 3.
At C square a
line
with
line
AB.
5.
From C on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point D. From D measure 3^2 of Elbow measure. Mark this point
6.
Measure
to the left of
this point F. this point
4.
E.
E i 1^ inches. Mark of E iJ4 inches. Mark
7.
Measure
to the right
8.
Measure
to the right of
F
34 inch.
9.
Measure
to the right of
G
34 inch.
10.
Square a
n. On
line at
this line
B
with
line
G.
Mark this point H. Mark this point I.
AB.
measure from B
J^ of
Hand
measure.
Mark
this point J.
14.
To the right of J measure 34 inch. Mark this point K. At K square a line with line BK. Measure on this line from K 1 inch. Mark this point L.
15.
Connect points
16.
Measure on
17.
Connect points
and
I.
12. 13.
L
L and B
this line
with a straight
from
L
1
inch.
line.
Mark
M and H with a straight 93
this point
line, also
M.
points
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
94 1 8.
D on the chart at point D and draw a curve to
Place point
B. 19.
Place point
D
20.
Place point
F on
J touches 21.
line
it
N
Connect
24.
At A square aline with
25.
From
Measure
Mark
G.
on
this point
FM
line
and
23.
26.
and hold
Mark this point N. B with a straight
the same length.
Mark
G
the chart at
GL and extend
line
A
to A.
hold so that point
so that point
J
IL and draw curve.
line
Measure
and draw a curve
F and
the chart at
and draw curve.
F on
Place point
just touches 22.
HM
D
on the chart at
line
below
M to make
line.
AB.
measure Y2 the Armhole measure.
this line
O.
E
4 times the distance from
to the right of
to
this point P.
27.
Measure
28.
Extend
29.
At
30.
On
to the left of
AB above
line
Mark
inches.
2
A
2Y2 inches.
this
point Q.
Mark
this
point
R.
point
R
square a line with line RB.
R
measure from
this line
ij^ inches.
Mark
this
S.
31.
Place point
32.
At point
G on the chart at S
and draw a curve through
A.
T where 33.
where 34.
Q
At P square a this line
line
with
Connect points
35. Place point
G
F and T
36.
Measure
37.
Place point
38.
Mark
D
U
with a straight
T
line.
and hold the chart so
AP draw curve and continue ;
Mark
this point
to A.
V.
G
and draw curve towards
half
way between S and V.
on the chart at
to V.
Find a point on this point
the point
S.
inch to the right of U.
Extend curve
the point
S.
AP and mark
on the chart at
that the curve touches line
V.
line
touches the line from
1
Mark
square a line with line AP.
touches the line from
this line
W.
line
RV
Sleeve WiihTifhi a
i\
J
L
a.
r$
e
To
p.
Elbow
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
96
39.
Square a
this line
40.
line at
W with
line
RV and mark point X where
touches AP.
With
X as a center and XS as a radius, draw curve from
S to V.
This completes the draft.
If the sleeve is desired larger or
smaller change the distance from
a
medium
O
to P.
The
sized sleeve.
In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere.
draft given, gives
XX
LESSON
Measures used Arm Length Arm Length
in draft given
measure
bend Armhole measure Elbow measure Hand measure to
i.
Draw
2.
Measure from
line
â€”
AB
20 of
Elbow
15 1
Arm measure. Arm to bend
length of
of
inches
2j4 inches 8
length of
A
inches
g}4 inches
inches
Elbow.
Mark
this point C. 3.
At C square a
4.
On
line
with
line
AB.
measure from C,
this line
Mark
2 inches,
this point
D. 5.
From
D
measure Y2 the Elbow measure.
Mark
this point
E.
Mark this point F. Mark this point G. 2^ the right of F, 34 inch. Mark this point H. the right of G, J4 mcn Mark this point I.
6.
Measure
to the left of E, ij^ inches.
7.
Measure
to the right of E,
8.
Measure
to
9.
Measure
to
inches.

At B square a line with line AB. n. On this line measure from B, Yi the Hand measure. Mark 10.
this point J. 12.
Measure
13.
At
14.
On
to the right of J, 34 inch.
this point
K.
K square a line with line BK. this line
measure from K,
L and B
15.
Connect
16.
Measure on
17.
Connect points
L and
Mark
1
with a straight
this line
from L,
1
Mark
inch. line.
inch.
Mark
M and H with a straight
I.
97
this point L.
this point
line, also
M.
points
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
98 1 8.
D
Place point
on the chart at
D
and draw a curve to
point B. 19.
Place point
20.
Place point
D on the chart
at
D and draw a curve to point
A.
F
F and
on the chart at
hold chart so that
point J touches line HM. Draw curve. 21. Place point F on the chart at G and hold chart so that
point J touches line IL. 22. it
Measure
the length of GL. 23.
Connect
24.
At
25.
From
Mark 26.
Mark
A
N
Draw
curve.
GL and extend
line
and
line
FM
below
M,
to
make
Mark this point N. B with a straight line.
square a line with line AB.
A
on
this line
measure
3^2
the
Armhole measure.
this point 0.
Measure
twice the distance from
to the right of
E
to
G.
this point P.
27.
Measure
28.
Extend
29.
At
to the left of 0, 2 inches.
AB above A, 2Y2
line
Mark this point Q. Mark this point
inches.
R.
30.
point
On
R square
a line with line RB.
this line
measure from R, ij^ inches.
Mark
this
S.
31.
Place point
32.
At point
G on
the chart at S and ;
draw curve through
A.
T
;
where 33.
where 34.
Q
Mark
square a line with line AP.
this line touches the line
At P square a
line
with
this line touches the line
Connect points
35. Place point
G
F and T
from
line
AP and mark
from
the point
U
S.
with a straight
on the chart at point
Draw
that the curve touches line AP.
the point
S.
T
line.
and hold chart so
curve and continue
it
to A.
U
36.
Measure
37.
Draw
and V.
1
inch to the right of U.
a straight line
from
G
Mark
this
to a point half
point V.
way between
Le$
OVWuU
on Sieeve.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
ioo
38.
point 39.
point
Find a point half way between
Place point
L
falls
on
C on
from G.
line
D
curve through
this
this
Draw
on the chart at
curve.
V
and
let
curve
fall
on
W.
W and V. line
RV
half
way between
S and V.
X.
42. Square a
line at
this line touches line
43.
Mark
the chart at G, and hold chart so that
41. Find a point on a
Mark
and G.
W.
40. Place point
Draw
V
With
Y as a
X with line RV, and mark point Y where
AP.
center and
SY
as a radius
draw curve from
S to V.
Note
â€” To
distance from
a
medium
make the
E
to G,
sleeve larger or smaller, change the
and from
to P.
The
draft given
sized sleeve.
In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere.
makes
LESSON XXI HOW Trace
TO CUT, MAKE, AND FINISH THE SLEEVE
on another piece
off
of
paper the upper portion of the
Be sure to trace on the
sleeve.
line DG, which marks the
ELBOW.
Cut
out, allowing
Allow at
seams everywhere except at the hand.
seam should be allowed
half inch
least
inch or more on the inside seam until after the
i
sleeve has been fitted.
changed
if it
One
and outside seam.
at the top
It
is
at this
needs any changing.
seam that the sleeve should be Sometimes you will find people
with a very fully developed muscle between the shoulder and elbow.
If this is so the sleeve will
out at this point. let it
out
if
needed.
Now trace off the under portion of the sleeve, Be sure to trace on
leaving the same sized seams.
Now we are
nearly always have to be let
Therefore leave seam enough to be able to
ready to cut the sleeve out of the lining goods.
ways place the
sleeve
on the
on the straight
of the
goods lengthwise.
is
double
fold, so
all
lining
with the
lines
Your
lining, of course,
line
DF before you
lift the pattern.
seams have been traced pick up the pattern.
notch at point
U or V,
whichever sleeve draft
one about ij^ inches from A.
Begin by pinning the elbow of the under
Al
FT and GU
that you will cut both sleeves at the same time.
Be sure to trace on After
line DF.
line of the
on each
a
being used, and
Pin the back seam together
and then pin the
to follow the tracing
is
Make
first.
upper to the elbow
line
entire seam, being very careful
piece.
After this seam
is
basted,
pin the elbow lines of the outside seam together and baste in the same
way
as
you did the
from one notch to the other.
inside seam.
The
sleeve
is
Gather the top
ready to be
This should be done at the time the waist lining
is fitted,
fitted.
while
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
102
the waist lining
on your patron.
is
Pull
up the gathers at the
Have your
top and pin the sleeve to the armhole under the arm.
patron bend her arm and bring her arm forward at the shoulder to be sure the sleeve does not
draw a
little,
see
the elbow
if
you have not pinned back seam. the hand patron,
move
draw at the elbow.
it
located just right and that
is
in too far to the waist in the back, at the
After the sleeve
thoroughly fitted turn
is
it
up
at
Before removing from your
to just the right length.
mark where
should
If it
the front seam comes, on the waist.
the waist and sleeve from your patron and
Re
you are ready
to proceed with the outside of the sleeve. If
your sleeve
to be a plain one with the
is
trimming placed on
the outside, the outside goods will be cut just like the lining. If,
however, the outside
cut for the outside. like the
bust forms.
pays
have one
to
the fancy outside
is
to be
very
If
one
is
The
to take
it
to learn to cut
of cloth.
Cut what you
make what you want and keep changing it get it just right. With a little practice, you can make you want the first time. Most sleeves conform quite think will
much
the lining, so you will not have
always
way
best
an old piece
must be
may be bought,
going to work for others
of these forms. is
different, a pattern
There are sleeve forms which
until
just
you
what
closely to
If there are to
trouble.
be tucks in the sleeve they must be put in the goods before
it is
cut out.
To make
the Mousquetaire sleeve.
on the
is fulled
lining
Be
crosswise. lining all it
sure that the outside
Sew up
the sleeve which
For
lining
this
and sew
Gather the goods on to the lining at the
inside seam, allowing about once sleeve.
is
Cut out the
sleeve use the tight lining sleeve.
up the elbow seam.
This
from the shoulder to the hand.
the inside
and a is
half the length of the
the same size as the lining
seam and tack the
along the outside seam, or where
cannot drop down out of place.
fastenings so that they do not show.
being worn, a very pretty sleeve
is
Be
it
fullness to the
would
careful to
When
be, so that
make
the
large sleeves are
made by putting
small length
CoaT
51eeve or
LiVung Sleeve
Leo? Q'MuTTg" .sleeve
Flowing Sleeve
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
104
wise tucks from the hand to the elbow, allowing the sleeve to puff from the elbow to the shoulder.
In cutting this sleeve the
tucks must be placed in the goods and tucks must be
left in
the sleeve.
For
all
the fullness left
by the
this sleeve use the onepiece
After sewing up the outside seam to the elbow, fasten
lining.
the tucks in place on the lining.
Cut out the
sleeve
and baste up.
in to the size of the lining,
Baste the goods on the
lining.
Gather the outside at the top
and then gather both the
outside in to the size of the armhole.
A little of
lining
and
the fullness left
by the tucks may be shoved off at the sides but not enough to make it look drawn at the top of the tucks. A bias band or a fancy shaped cuff may be placed at the hand or it may be simply faced with a bias facing.
If
you wish a
sleeve to be
sewed
in at
the armhole without gathers, take the sleeve off at the highest
part of the top about to is
make
it
i
inch,
and take
it
the exact size of the armhole.
in
enough at point
The
A
onepiece sleeve
the best one to use for this sleeve.
After the sleeve
is all
stitched
and pressed, lay
it
away with
the waist until the skirt and drop skirt are prepared. is left
to
do to the sleeve
bias facing, of silk itself.
if
is
the goods
to face is
it
All that
about the hand with a
very heavy;
if
not, of the goods
LESSON XXII DRAFTING THE CIRCULAR SKIRT
Measures used
for draft given
â€”
Waist measure Hip measure
42
inches
Front length of skirt
40
inches
Side length of skirt
40^ 41^
inches
Back length
Take a
inches
25
of skirt
and one straight
sheet of paper having a square corner
edge large enough for the draft.
If
inches
a piece large enough
is
not
at hand, paste several together. 1.
Use the corner
10 inches, 2.
With the same
other 3.
and draw a
circle.
of the paper for a center,
center
and a radius of
Point A.
circle.
and a radius
of 15 inches,
draw an
Point C.
Measure from A on
circle,
Y the Waist measure.
Mark
this
Y2 the Hip measure.
Mark
this
point B. 4.
Measure from C on
circle,
point D. 5.
Mark
Find a point on
circle
AB
half
way between
A
and B.
this point E.
% of
Mark
6.
Measure down
7.
Place point J on the chart at E, and with curve JF draw
an inch from B.
this point
F.
curve towards F. 8.
Mark 9.
Continue curve to F.
Find a point on this point
circle
CD
half
way between C and D.
G.
Measure down from
D
^
H. 105
of
an inch.
Mark
this point
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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
107
Place point J on the chart at G and with curve JF draw curve towards H. Continue curve to H. 10.
1 1
Measure from
this point 12.
A on circle AF 3^ of Waist measure. Mark
I.
Measure from C on
circle
CH,
3^>
of
Hip measure. Mark
this point J.
Draw
a straight line through I and J and continue down the length of the Back skirt measure. This line is the center 13.
back 14.
line.
Measure from
A down
the edge of the paper, which
is
the front center line of the skirt, the Front length measure of
the skirt.
Point K.
15.
Measure down from
16.
Measure from
E
I the
Back length
of skirt.
the Side length of skirt.
Point
Point L.
M.
The curve for the bottom of the skirt is found by measurdown every few inches the length measures of the skirt.
17.
ing
This skirt draft should never be used for narrow goods.
It
should always be cut from very heavy goods.
In cutting pattern allow seams waist
line.
down
the back and at the
LESSON XXIII DRAFTING THE THREEGORED CIRCULAR SKIRT
Measures used
in draft given
â€”
Waist measure
25
Hip measure
42
inches
Front Length measure
40
inches
40^ 41K
inches
Side Length measure
,
Back Length measure
Take a
sheet
1.
2.
of the
draw a
circle.
and one
to hold the draft.
paper for a center and with a radius Point A.
With the same center and a radius of
circle. 3.
enough
Use the corner
of 10 inches
inches
paper having a square corner
of
straight edge large
inches
15 inches
draw another
Point C.
Measure from
A on circle,
J^ of Waist measure.
Mark
this
Y2 of Hip measure.
Mark
this
point B. 4.
Measure from
C
on
circle,
point D. 5.
Mark 6.
Find a point on this point
circle
AB
half
way between A and
B.
E.
Measure down
% of an inch from B.
Mark
this point F.
7. Place point J on the chart at E and with curve JF draw curve towards F. Continue curve to F.
8.
mark 9.
Find a point on this point
circle
CD
half
way between C and
D
and
G.
Measure down from
D
% of
an inch.
Mark
this
point
H. Place point J on the chart at G and with curve JF draw curve towards H. Continue curve to H. 10.
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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING ii.
Mark 12.
Measure from
A
on
in
AF, J^ of Waist measure.
circle
this point I.
Measure from C on
circle
CH, J^
Hip measure. Mark
of
this point J. 13.
Draw
a straight line through
length of the
Back
skirt
and continue down the
I J
This
measure.
line is the center
back
line.
14.
Measure from
A down
the edge of the paper, which
the front center line of the skirt, the Front skirt length.
is
Point
K. 15.
Measure down from
I the
back length
of skirt.
Point
L.
On circle AF measure 1 inch to the left of point E. Mark this point M. Mark 17. On circle CH measure 1 inch to the left of G. 16.
this point 18.
N.
Draw
M
a line through
Mark
length of Side skirt measure. 19.
Measure
to the right
Mark
of skirt, 9 inches.
N and P,
20.
Connect
21.
AKMP
is
N
and
and
this point O.
left of
these points
and
and continue down the on the bottom curve
P and
Q.
N and Q with straight lines.
the front gore.
MQIL
is
the back gore.
In cutting out the pattern allow seams everywhere.
Note
â€” The threegored circular
full circular
sides.
skirt,
This gives
skirt draft is the
except that a half yard
less fullness,
the skirt from sagging.
is
same
as the
taken out at the
and the seam down the
side keeps
LESSON XXIV DRAFTING THE SEVENGORED SKIRT
Measures used
in this draft
â€”
Waist measure Elip measure Front length of
skirt
Side length of skirt
Back length of skirt Measure about bottom
Take a
2.
enough
With
3.
inches
40^ 41^
inches
A
inches
yards
and a straight
to hold the draft.
as a center
inches,
draw a
circle
of the paper, AP.
BD, beginning at the edge
circle,
inches
40
3
A represents the corner of the paper. With A as a center and a radius of 10
1.
42
piece of paper having one square corner
edge, large
inches
25
.
and a radius
of 15 inches,
draw another
CE.
From C on circle CE, measure 17 of one half the Hip Mark this point F. 5. From point C on circle CE measure ij^ inches more than from C to F. Mark this point G. 6. Measure from C to F and C to G. Subtract this amount 4.
measure.
from Y2 the Hip measure. 7. Use what is left of the Hip measure
C
to 8.
From B on
Mark
this point
9.
to
for the distance
H and C to I, making C to H Y% inch less than C to
K. 10.
circle
BD measure
1
from
I.
inch less than from
C
to F.
K.
From B on circle BD measure Mark this point L. Measure from B
to
K
and
from Y2 the Waist measure.
"3
B
% inch more than from B
to
L and
subtract this
sum
.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
114 11
B
to 12.
Use what
is left
of the
Waist measure
M and B to N, making B to M Place point
C on
for the distance from
j^ inch
the chart at point
less
than
B
F and draw
to
N.
curve
through K. 13.
Place point
D
on the chart at
G
14.
Place point
D
on the chart at
H and draw curve through
15.
Place point
D
on the chart at
I
16.
To form
and draw curve through
L.
M. and draw curve through
N. the inverted plait
from G, touching the
circle
â€” Measure on a
straight line
Mark
this point J.
CE, 4 inches.
From L measure on a straight BD, 33^2 inches. Mark this point 0.
line
17.
18. 19.
touching the circle
%
of an inch. Mark this point 00. Measure up from 0, Place point F on the chart at 00 and draw curve through
L. 20.
Connect
00
21.
To form
the bottom of the gores
B on
and J with a straight
line.
â€” Measure
down from
the edge of the paper the Front length of skirt.
Mark
this point P. 22.
With
A
as a center
and AP as a
radius,
draw a
circle,
Circle PV.
beginning at the edge of the paper.
From P on circle PV measure 3^ inches more than from C to F. Mark this point Q. 24. Decide how wide you wish your skirt about the bottom. This will be determined by the style being worn. 23.
25.
Subtract from 3^ the bottom measure the distance from
P toQ. 26.
parts.
Divide what
Use one
is left
of the
bottom measure
of these parts as a
measure
into three equal
for the three other
gores. 27.
Make
the distance from
P
to
R
2
inches less than this
13 measure. 28.
Now
find out
how much
of the
J^ bottom measure you
Seveu Qcre3 Skirt
£
£<7<?e
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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
Ii6
have used, by measuring from
P
to
Q and
from
this sum from Y2 the bottom measure. 29. Divide what is left into two equal parts.
P to R.
Subtract

for the 30.
two
making P
side gores,
Use
this
to S 2 inches less than
Measure from point R, 10
measure
P
to T.
inches, point U, for the
bottom
G
and R,
of inverted plait. 31.
Connect with straight
H and S, 32.
I
34.
points
and T, J and U. the true bottom curve
To find
from waist curve, on each 33.
lines
The front The back
line,
F and
of each gore,
Q,
measure down
the skirt lengths.
gore
is
represented
by BPKQ.
gore
is
represented
by BPLR, with inverted
LROU.
plait 35.
Front Side Gore
36.
Back Side Gore
37.
To
is
is
represented by BPMS. represented
by BPNT.
lay the inverted plait, place line
LR
over on line OU.
In putting the skirt together the straight side of each gore
BP
will
come against the
bias side of the gore next to
In cutting the pattern allow seams everywhere.
it.
LESSON XXV DRAFTING THE NINE GORED SKIRT
Measures used
for draft given
â€”
Waist measure
25
inches
Hip measure
42
inches
Front Length measure
40
inches
Side Length measure
40^
inches
Back Length measure Measure about bottom
4i>ÂŁ inches
Take a
yards
3
piece of paper having a square corner
and one straight
side. 1.
A
2.
With
circle, 3.
represents the corner.
A
as a center
and a radius
of 10 inches,
draw a
BD.
With
A
as a center
and 15 inches as a
radius,
draw a
circle,
CE. 4.
Mark
From C on
circle
CE measure
19 of half the
Hip measure.
this point F.
%
inch less than from C to 5. From B on circle BD measure F. Mark this point I. 6. Measure down from B the skirt length measure. Mark this point M. 7. From M, measure 3^ inches more than from C to F. Mark this point N. 8.
Connect
I
and F, and F and
N
with straight
lines.
This
forms the front gore. 9.
From Yi
the
Hip measure subtract the distance from C
to
F. 10.
Divide what
is left
into 4 equal parts. 117
This gives the
MiNe Core
M
W
<3
S Jrjv
f.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
Hip measure
1 19
each of the other gores, or the distance from
for
C
to G.
n. Subtract from J^ the Waist measure to
12.
Divide what
measure
B
the distance from
B
I. is left
into 4 equal parts.
This gives the
for the waist line of all the other gores, or distance
from
to J. 13.
Subtract from Y2 the bottom measure the distance from
M toN. 14.
Divide what
measure
for the
is left
bottom
into 4 equal parts.
This gives the
of all the gores, or the distance
from
M
to 0. 15.
After cutting the front gore, BMIN, cut 6 gores like
the gore represented 16.
To make
17.
Measure from
3 3/2 inches.
by BMJO.
the back gores
Mark
G
â€” Add the inverted
on a straight
this point
19.
Measure on a straight
touching curve CH,
line
touching curve CE,
H.
Measure from J on a straight inches. Mark this point K.
18.
3^
plait.
line
line
from 0, 10 inches.
Mark
this
point P.
Measure up from K, ^2 inch. Mark this point L. point F on the chart at L, and draw curve through J. 20.
21 22.
Connect
L and H, and
BMLP
Cut two
H and P with straight lines.
represents the back gore with inverted plait.
of these gores.
Notch each gore goes.
Place
as
You
it is
have 9 gores in all. cut out, to show just where each one will
Always put the straight
side
BM
against the bias side
of the next gore. Get the true bottom curve as you did the seven
gored
skirt.
To
lay inverted plait, place line J0 on line LP.
In cutting pattern allow seams everywhere.
LESSON XXVI DRAFTING THE FIFTEENGORED SKIRT
Measures used
for draft given
â€”
Waist measure Hip measure Front Length measure Side Length measure Back Length measure
inches
inches
inches 40 4o>ÂŁ inches
41^
Measure about bottom
Take a
25
42
3
piece of paper having a square corner
inches
yards
and one straight
edge. 1.
A
2.
With
represents the corner.
A as a center and a
draw a
circle,
center and a radius of 15 inches,
draw
radius of 10 inches,
beginning at the straight edge of the paper (BC). 3.
With the same
another 4.
Mark 5.
Mark 6.
skirt 7.
circle
From
D
(DE).
on
DE measure
circle
115 of the
Hip measure.
this point F.
From B on
circle
BC measure
115 of the
Waist measure.
this point G.
From B on the edge of the paper measure down length. Mark this point H. From H measure 2 inches more than from D to
the Front
F.
Mark
this point I. 8.
Place point
9.
Connect
C on
F and
the chart at I
F and draw
with a straight
line.
curve through G.
This forms the
front gore. 10.
to F.
Subtract from J^ the Hip measure, the distance from
D
Fifteen Gor>ei S'kivt.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 11.
Divide what
12.
Measure from
into 7 equal parts.
is left
D
"3
on
circle
DE
one of these parts.
Mark
this point J. 13.
B
Subtract from
%
the
Waist measure the distance from
to G. 14.
Divide what
15.
Measure from B on
this point 16.
is left
into 7 equal parts. circle
BC one
of these parts.
Mark
K.
Place point
D
on the chart at J and draw curve through
K. 17.
Connect J and L with a straight line. Twelve of these should be cut.
This finishes the
side gore. 18.
To form
the back gore
â€” Add to the side gore the inverted
plait. 19.
Measure on a
2Y2 inches.
Mark
M Y% inch.
Mark
20.
Measure up from
Measure from J on a straight
Mark
touching the curve,
M.
21.
inches.
K
straight line from
this point
this point
line
N.
touching curve, 3
this point 0.
22.
Measure from L, 8
23.
Connect
inches.
N0 and P
Mark
this point P.
with a straight
line.
The entire back gore is represented by BHNP. The side gores by BHKL. The front gore by BHGI. To lay the inverted plait, lay line LK over on line NP. In cutting pattern allow
all
seams.
LESSON XXVII THE FULL PLAITED SKIRT, MADE FROM THE FIFTEENGORED DRAFT
For this make your
skirt
make
the bottom measure 2^2 yards,
draft.
on another piece
paper the front gore.
1.
Trace
2.
Measure out
3.
Measure out ij^ inches from F.
4.
Measure out
5.
Connect these two points with straight
this line.
when you
off
1
of
inch from G.
2^
inches from
I.
This amount added to the gore
6.
Turn the
plait under, turning
the side gore.
7.
Trace
8.
Measure out from B,
9.
Measure out from D, ij^
off
1
on
is
for the plait.
inch.
inches.
2^
Measure out from H,
11.
Connect these points with straight is
and cut on
line GFI.
10.
This amount added
lines,
inches.
for a lap to
lines.
run under the plait of the
front gore. 12.
Measure out from K,
13.
Measure out from
14.
Measure out from L,
1
inch.
J, ij^t inches.
2^
inches.
This forms the plait to be turned under on the side gore. This forms the entire skirt except the two back gores. 15.
To form
the back gores
â€” Trace
off
the back gore, hav
ing added the inverted plait. 16.
Measure out from B,
17.
Measure out from D, ij^
18.
Measure out from H, 2Y2 inches. Connect these points with straight
19.
1
inch.
125
inches.
lines.
This forms
Full PliiUJ
Fl}
f
Skirt
ec>\ (Pove.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
127
the lap to run under the plait of the gore next to the back.
Lay
the inverted plait by placing line KJL over on NOP.
Cut the same number
of gores of each
kind as directed in the
plain fifteengored skirt.
In cutting from the goods, the
baste
from the goods. it fiat
the line
illus
each time.
down about
stitch the
in a flat
After each plait has been turned
to the next gore.
BH
the waist
and
marked BH on the
must be marked with a thread before the pattern
tration rai'sed
line
Have
Stitch
10 inches.
raw edge
is in,
the edge of the plait follow
on the edge
of each plait
Turn the
wrong
of the plaits to the
skirt
raw edge
from
side out
of the laps
seam about ^2 mc ^ wide. Before removing the bastings plaits in place, give each plait a dead press by
which hold the
placing a wet cloth on
heavy
iron.
The
it
and pressing
skirt should
until dry.
Use a rather
be placed on a band at the waist
and hung about the bottom, before removing the bastings. the skirt is
is
to turn
and
stitch
After
hung even about the bottom, run a thread where
up and then remove the it in.
Press the
bastings.
hem and
it
Turn up the hem
then press the plaits back
in where they were pressed out in pressing the
hem.
LESSON XXVIII TO
MAKE AND
CUT,
First we for the
will
drop
If the skirts
FINISH THE DROP SKIRT AND OUTSIDE SKIRT
take up the drop
The amount
skirt.
must depend on the
skirt
style of the outside skirt.
worn are very scant the drop
correspond.
If
very
full, it
of material
must be made
skirt
must be made with a
full ruffle
to
or
Five and one half yards of cotton lining or 10 yards
plaiting.
of taffeta will
You have be scant or
make a
full
drop
full
and we take
skirt.
whether your outside
of course decided
for granted that
it
skirt is to
you have drafted
your pattern.
You
should do
waist, sleeve
and
the drafting before you begin the gown,
all
skirt.
Use the draft you have made
for the skirt.
Trace
off
each
gore on another piece of paper and allow seams everywhere.
Of course a seam
as only Y2 the front line
and
made
not be allowed
will
% inch on
sides of the gores.
just the length the skirt
the sevengored skirt, the lines from the hips tight, is
draw the
the front of the draft,
Allow J^ inch seam at the waist The pattern should be
drafted.
is
all
down
if
is
to be
the skirts
down out a
lines just
a
when
finished.
worn are a
little.
little slanting.
If
In using
little full,
slant
they are worn very
Notch each gore
as
it
cut from the paper, beginning with the front, which has one
notch.
The
side of the second gore
front has one notch,
So on until
all
and the other
which comes next to the
side of this gore
two notches.
the gores are notched.
Turn each gore up 10 inches from the bottom and this for
a pattern for the drop
skirt.
pin.
Use
Spread the lining out on
Lay
the middle of the
fold of the goods
and arrange the
the table.
It will be double fold,
front gore
on the lengthwise
if
129
cotton.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
130
The goods being way up or down. Cut out, bottom, as we are to sew our ruffle
other gores to the best advantage to save cloth. plain, the gores
may
be turned either
allowing a good seam at the
Notch each gore to correspond Baste all the seams and stitch.
or plaiting to pattern.
From
to those in the
it.
the other end of the goods, cut enough strips
when sewed
wide, on a true bias, to make,
nj^ inches
together end to end,
Sew
once and a half the width of the skirt around the bottom.
Turn and baste a hem ij^
the seams on. the machine.
wide along one
from the edge.
Divide the bottom of the
each quarter on a separate thread.
making
skirt into four parts,
more than the back fuller in the
This will bring the
parts.
back than
the two front parts two inches
in front.
having the seam come on the wrong skirt as
wide again as that on the
and
in,
the ruffle
is
ruffle
a
little
the ruffle to the skirt,
Have
side.
the seam on the
After the skirt has been
ruffle.
This covers
stitch.
put on.
A
narrow
one at the bottom
if
place of the
enough
ruffle,
of the goods, the
Sew
wide part of the seam over the narrow part,
tried on, turn the
turning
inches
Gather along the other side about J^ mcn Before gathering, divide into quarters and gather
side.
may
ruffle
one wishes.
If
be put on the wide
a plaiting
strips should
same width
the raw edge where
all
is
preferred in
be cut on the straight
as those for the ruffle, to
make
3
times the width of the skirt.
Sew a
band
straight
top of the
skirt,
of the
goods about ij^ inches wide to the
having the band about
2
inches longer than the
Pin the middle of the band to the middle of
waist measure.
the front of the skirt, having the band on the right side of the skirt.
Turn
top of the
in
both ends of the band
You will What is
skirt.
than the band.
1
inch and pin along the
find that the skirt left of
the skirt
is
quite a bit longer
may
be gathered
or laid in a large plait, having the edge of the plait to the
end
of the
The back seam from the top.
in,
come just
band. of the skirt should
be
left
This opening should be
open about 12 inches
hemmed on
each side
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
A
with a narrow hem. that there
is
no
silk
drop skirt
is
131
cut the same except
fold to cut the front gore on.
Fold the goods
together to cut the front, and proceed as in the cotton skirt.
â€”
Turn the bottom of the pattern down The Outside Skirt turned it up to use it for the drop skirt. This again, where you leaves the pattern just the length the finished skirt will if
make
possible
wrong
on the fold that
skirt
Never cut the front gore
side up.
in the goods,
is
This used always to be done, but
Make
to be.
is
Spread the goods on the
a perfectly plain skirt.
it is
if it is
We
table,
of the outside
doublefold goods.
no longer considered proper.
a fresh fold just far enough from the edge of the goods
to cut the gore.
After this gore
Never
best advantage possible.
is
cut, lay all others on, to the
lay the front side of the gores
Always lay
exactly on the straight of the goods lengthwise.
the top of the gore back at least ij^ inches.
Always allow
about 4 inches at the bottom of each gore for hem.
If
you are
short of goods only allow two inches, and then the skirt
may be
faced. for
it
It is
never best to cut a skirt the exact length
always takes up in making.
from the goods, turn back
all
the goods with tailor's chalk.
correspond with the pattern.
and
to be,
Before raising the pattern
seams on the pattern and mark on
mark where the bottom Be sure to notch each gore
Also
the pattern comes on each gore.
ones, one at a time,
it is
of
to
Pin the front gore to the second
baste.
careful not to stretch either side.
Pin every few inches and be
When
all
the seams have been
basted in this way, turn the skirt up about the bottom, on the
wrong rubs
side,
on the
line
off easily so it is
handling the so that the
will
chalk.
The chalk
best to trace on the line with thread before
Pin every few inches and high enough up
skirt.
hem
you made with the
not drop down.
the waist line to keep
it
Run
a strong thread along
from stretching when
it is
tried on.
We are ready now for the first fitting. When the patron comes, if
the waist and skirt are to be separate, put the skirt on
over the drop perfect
fit
skirt.
Examine very
carefully to see
if
first,
it is
a
about the hips and waist and notice whether the seams
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
132 all
Do not try to hang the skirt around the bottom
look straight.
seams are stitched and pressed.
until the
While the
the patron lay the inverted plait in the back,
Nowadays
one.
many
there are so
some at the
the front.
All
we can do
Some open on
you how
to tell
is
is
thoroughly
Be sure the outside looks just as any changes necessary. Pin the
it
fitted,
the
the plain
put on the waist.
Make
finished.
sleeve into the armhole, taking
you were taught
collar just as
make
to
when
should
care that the inside seam comes just where
Cut a
be
to
is
back and some at the side of
side of the
After the skirt
skirt.
there
different styles of skirts,
that you will have to use your ingenuity. side,
if
on
skirt is
should to hang right.
it
neck band for
to cut the
the shirt waist, only wider, of whatever material the collar
and
to be
inch wider than
i
when
Pin
finished.
it
gown
carefully so as not to lose
There should be one more except the
hem
any pins, and
fitting, after
in the bottom.
If
the
you do
never have to be brought back for changes. skirt,
which,
if
it
needs no changes,
is
it is
ready to
gown this
is all
all
the
finish.
finished
your work
Finish
on
in place
Remove
the patron, shape the top and get the exact length.
is
will
up the drop
finished but sewing
Turn down the edge of the band, which is not basted, and baste on the wrong side just opposite the first basting. Stitch on the right side. This will make a band about on the band.
Y2 inch wide at the top of the skirt. Sew a good large hook and This finishes the eye on the band and press the entire skirt. drop be.
skirt.
If
Finish
up the waist according
a separate waist
is
worn
to the style
outside the skirt,
the waist should be finished with a bias band about
wide. side
Stitch the
and hem.
band on the
Stitch
it
of the bones, so that clear to the
and fasten sleeves
and
enough
to
bottom all
the
right side,
first
when
it is
to
the bottom of
i^
inches
turn up on the wrong
time just a seam below the ends
it is
of the waist.
finished the bones will
Finish
all
come
other parts neatly
trimmings where they should be.
Baste in the
Bind the armholes with a bias band wide cover the seam. Finish the sleeves at the bottom stitch.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
hem
with a
After the waist
seams.
Stitch
seams.
all
we must
finish the skirt.
it
Stitch
has been fastened to the waist, this
Turn the
skirt
is
wrong
seam and fasten
stitch at the waist line near the
with a pin so that
cannot ravel but so you can get at the seam.
Trim
off to
about ^2 inch, and overcast.
Press
we must put a we did on the drop skirt. A band may be bought ready made or one may be made as If
band on waist
hooks and Peet or thread
can be accomplished.
it
Cut a
side out.
finished
is all
If the skirt
hard to do, but
open.
1
whichever seem best, wherever necessary.
loops,
all
Place No.
or facing.
133
the skirt
separate from the waist
is
at the waist line, just as
we did for the drop skirt. It is to buy the ready made band. the placket should be finished.
wide down the skirt,
side,
if
you are sewing
Before putting on this band,
of the
made
goods
like the
goods lengthwise.
Stitch
of
To
turn on the wrong side and hem.
side of the placket,
for others
Put a facing about ij^ inches
the placket,
left side of
and perfectly straight
on the right
best
sew a straight piece
the other
of the goods,
4 inches
Sew one edge
wide, which has been folded together lengthwise.
to the unfinished side of the placket, having the piece
Turn
right side of the skirt. stitching just
made and
in the other edge, baste along the
stitch again
to catch the last basting.
on the right
This will form a flap
2
inches wide to
hem on
your inverted
plait so that the edge of the plait
the other side of the placket.
Stitch each plait in place
Be sure
side.
run under the
the edge of the placket.
on the
You
came
laid
just to
on the machine
x inch back from the edge. Place hooks on the hem side about /i and Peet eyes on the flap. Now sew the band to the top of
the skirt, and
the skirt
is
it is
finished, all
but the
hem
in the bottom.
fastened to the waist the placket
is
If
finished in the
same way.
The one
is
skirt
to
we have given
all
a perfectly plain skirt.
If a
fancy
be made, the pattern must be prepared before
cut from the goods.
pin
is
If
you wish a
skirt
it is
with a circular flounce,
the gores together and cut a piece from the bottom of
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
134
the skirt just the width you wish your flounce. Slash this piece up from the bottom every few inches. Spread each cut apart a little and paste a piece of paper underneath, to hold them apart.
These slashes must extend almost all
these slashes, have been spread apart
cular flounce. skirt,
until
allowing a
on the
little
seam at the Stitch
skirt.
you
have your
will
cir
of the pattern for the pattern of the
on the bottom to run under the flounce
properly hung.
it is
flounce and a
If
Use the top
When
to the top of the piece.
on
Allow a hem on the bottom top.
Turn
of the
and lay
in the top
it flat
the outside as near the edge as possible.
you wish a fancyshaped yoke
in the skirt, pin the
seams of
the skirt together at the hips and waist line and cut a yoke any
shape you wish.
Turn
skirt by.
Use the lower part
of the pattern to cut the
in the lower edge of the yoke.
Place the skirt
underneath and stitch as near the edge as possible. is desired
with setin plaits half
how
decide
far
way up on some
up you wish them
off
where you wish the top
on
these gores about 2 inches wide.
of paper,
The
and pin them
top of the plaits
to catch
shape
it
when was
the
Lay
to the gore just
come.
Allow a
stitched in.
hem
the plaits in a piece
where you want them.
Now
far
enough
cut the gore the same
This gives you an exact pattern for the
gore with the plaits set skirt,
of the plaits to
of the gores,
Cut these gores
must extend up under the hem
hem is
before.
to come.
If a skirt
in.
Whenever any
plaits are
put in a
always keep them securely basted in until the skirt
is
finished.
You
will
soon learn to cut any kind of a skirt you wish.
ways begin with from that.
the plain foundation and
Al
work out your pattern
LESSON XXIX WOMEN'S MUSLIN UNDERWEAR
For
the petticoat to be placed on a band, use the draft given
Pin the front gore to the second, and
for the sevengored skirt.
cut together as one gore.
The dart
This will
make
a wide front gore.
at the top where the front gore rounds in to the waist
should be put
Cut the back
in.
back gore without the inverted
seam
â€” PETTICOATS
side gore just as
Add
plait.
at the top but not at the bottom.
This
back seam and leave a few gathers at the waist the skirt a
little less
outside skirt.
If
it is
less
bottom
skirts being
you wish
be about 3 inches. full,
full dress skirts are
to be as the
the goods
ruffle of
will straighten the
Make
around the bottom than you would make an
very
depend on the dress shorter than
Cut the
in the back.
being worn, a 3 yard
be found a good width for a petticoat.
skirt will
it is.
3 inches to the back
Sew
worn.
width
to
of
The width must
Cut the
embroidery edge, lace or
put on the bottom.
This should
(which should not be very
this ruffle
than once and a half the width of the
of the skirt,
much
skirt as
skirt)
having the seam on the inside.
stitching the ruffle on, place a straight
band
2^
to the
Before
inches wide so
that the edge comes just even with the edge of the ruffle where it is
to be stitched on.
Turn
this
band up on the
turned in the raw edge, and stitch in place.
seam and forms the hem
Make
This covers the
inches wide of embroidery, or
12
width of the
and a
Put the flounce on the bottom
of the skirt, so that the
ruffle
This
embroidery or lace sewed on the edge.
flounce should measure once
of the flounce
having
of the skirt.
a flounce from 8 to
of muslin with
skirt,
half the
comes just even with the lower edge
which forms the bottom
of the skirt.
135
skirt.
lower edge
of the
narrow
Place a narrow
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
136 bias
band about 38
of
an inch wide, after both edges are turned
over the seam where the flounce
in,
on both edges
Hem
the top.
over on the
sewed to the
of the skirt
open
about 12 inches from
for
the right side of this opening with a
Lap
with a narrow hem.
left side
bottom
at the
left
Stitch
skirt.
band very near the edge.
of this
Leave the back seam wide and the
is
on the machine so that
of the opening
and
gather the
Take a
the skirt from the back side seam to the opening.
straight
and
piece of muslin 2 inches wide, lengthwise of the goods,
Turn
inches longer than the waist measure.
and turn
raw
in the
edge of the
Sew
the
band on the
wrong side.
right
hand end
The
to the top of the skirt,
right side of the skirt
and the other on
left
hand
skirt.
a Yoke.
Petticoat with
â€” Cut
a yoke of the muslin,
according to the directions for cutting yokes in
having
having one
band and place a button on the
of the
inch
1
and work a buttonhole in the
Stitch into place
This finishes the
end.
end
in each
2
Fold together lengthwise so that
edges.
the edges are just even.
inch
stitch across
Now
cannot tear down.
it
hem Y%
the right side
LESSON
28,
m ade a pattern first. Make the yoke the same width from
the waist line
all
the
way
around.
Use the same foundation
pattern you used for the petticoat just given, but add 6 inches at the back where the skirt
make
the back
yoke
is
seam about
Of course the
bottom.
deep, this
seam
the
seam on the
band.
stead of
straight, as
and sew
this skirt the
to the
off at
at the
as the
the top and not
of the skirt
from back
of the yoke,
having
Cover the seam with a narrow bias opening in the back must be faced
Face with a straight piece
Lay one
and
stitch across as in the other skirt.
side over
of
goods about
This opening should be
Instead of the straight band at the waist
band about
1
in
on the other at the bottom
inches wide.
stitch a bias
we add nothing much shorter
bottom
i}/2
12 inches long.
This wilt
be cut as
Gather the top
inside.
hemmed.
sew on the yoke.
amount being taken
to placket
For
to
skirt will
at the bottom of the skirt. side
is
line,
inch wide to the yoke at the waist
Sevew Gcred ~LL s
e 3
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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
138 line,
having the band on the right side of the
band over on the wrong
side.
Turn
again, as near the edge as possible.
edge of the
skirt.
Work
the top of the yoke. the one given before.
in the
skirt.
Turn the
raw edge and
stitch
Stitch again near the top
a buttonhole and sew on a button near
Finish the skirt at the bottom the same as
XXX
LESSON
THE NIGHT  GOWN
For
the nightgown the shirtwaist draft
how deep
deciding
the yoke
is
piece of paper, using the neck, shoulder
For the
hole as needed.
skirt of the
will
and as much
slanting lines from point
be about
2 18
hem
at the
twoinch
or
2%
of the
T
of the
on
a
arm
For the under so that the skirt
yards around the bottom.
bottom
After
nightgown use the rest of
the armhole which was not used in the yoke.
arm seam draw
used.
is
to be, trace off the pattern
gown, and at the
Allow a
front,
where
the skirt gathers on the yoke, 4 inches for gathers and 3 inches
Gather the skirt to the yoke, having the seam on the
at the back. right side,
and cover the seam with
bought at any dry goods
store.
which can be
finishing braid,
The yoke may be made any
depth, and as fancy as one wishes, using tucks, lace or embroidery.
A
may be made by using allover embroidery The yoke may be buttoned down the front from it may be cut away, leaving a Vshaped opening
very pretty gown
for the yoke.
the neck, or
There should be no seam down the front or back of
in front.
the gown.
If the
goods
is
not wide enough to cut
it,
put gores
at the sides to make it wide enough. Open the skirt of the gown from the yoke down the front about 18 inches. Put hem of an inch wide down the right side and a narrow hem down the left side of the opening. At the lower end lay the
on
%
right side over
down.
on the
left
and
stitch across to
keep
For the sleeve use the shirtwaist
it
from tearing Gather the
draft.
bottom into a band, or use a narrow band and sew a lace or
embroidery to the lower edge.
off short,
the lower edge trimmed
139
and
The
sleeve
left to
ruffle of
may
hang
be cut
loose.
(Vi£H$owh
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From.
LESSON XXXI THE CHEMISE
For off
the chemise the shirtwaist draft
may also be used.
Trace
on another piece of paper the neck, shoulder and armhole After this pattern has been made, trace
of the shirtwaist front.
with the tracingwheel a
extending from about 4 inches
circle
from the neck, on the front
a point about
line, to
Cut on
the armhole on the shoulder.
of the pattern
and draw a
line
out enough at the bottom to
from the front
from
make
line to the line just
this line
Add
part for the pattern of the chemise.
T
off
the front.
Draw
30 inches long, slanting
the skirt measure 3^ yard
Make
drawn.
a circle from a point
hole on the shoulder
seam
Cut on
make
line
from
Add
garment measure 2
T
the skirt measure
the line just drawn.
out
arm
the front line
line.
For the
you did
for
inches from the arm
from the neck on
and use the lower part
5 inches to the
back
of the
of the pattern
30 inches long, slanting out enough to 3^2
yard from the middle back seam to
This makes the bottom of the finished
2 yards.
or 3 inches, as
2
to a point 5 inches
this line
pattern for the chemise.
and draw a
and use the lower
the neck, shoulder and armhole as
back, trace
inches from
5 inches to the front
long enough to correspond with the under
the back line.
2
The
shown
line
down
the back should slant
in the drawing.
To
cut from the
goods, lay the middle of the front and the middle of the back
on the
fold of the
the same circle as the neck of
added
for gathers.
ders.
Make
this
x inches wide, Cut a band \ /i the chemise, leaving off the amount
goods lengthwise.
Join the front and back bands at the shoul
band double
of the goods.
together at the upper edge and turn. Y
lower edge of the band about /i inch. 141
Turn
Stitch the two pieces in
both edges at the
Gather the chemise be
cu
H=
V to
H
+
^ <o
C
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
144
tween points
X
and
Y
into this band, placing one edge
and one on the wrong
right
edge as possible.
Stitch' in place, as
side.
on the
near the
Face the armhole with a bias facing cut
i
Sew this facing to the garment on the right side. Turn back on the wrong side and after turning in the raw edge stitch in place, stitching as near the edge as possible. Sew about
inch wide.
the neck and armholes a narrow lace, fulled on.
These chemise
may be made very fancy, if one wishes, by putting in little yokes of insertion or embroidery.
The Chemise without Gathers. ments are often made
is
â€”
Another way these gar
without any gathers at the neck
To
cut one this way, simply do not add the 5 inches to the front and
back, but
draw the
at the bottom.
yoke but
way
is
holes.
will
(See
front 111.)
and back
lines slanting
out 5 inches
This will take out the fullness at the
not narrow up the
skirt.
The chemise made
this
often embroidered in scallops about the neck and arm
LESSON XXXII women's corset covers
For
the tightfitting corset cover, use the tight waist draft
without back forms.
this corset cover, it
Cut the pattern from paper, allowing seams
Cut the neck out
everywhere.
sew up the seams on the wrong
has been fitted trim
Turn
34 inch wide. baste
down
as low as desired.
one
off
side of the
wards the back.
A hem
each side of the front.
with lace or embroidery.
It
after
about
it
seam and Stitch as
be turned to
made down
hem, having turned
this
Sew buttons on the
left
in
hand hem and
Trim the neck and armholes
work buttonholes on the right hem. face the armholes
all
iJ4 inches wide should be
Turn down
the raw edge, and stitch.
(Fell seam.)
The seams should
near the edge as possible.
and
seam, leaving
in the edge of the other side of the
over the trimmed edge.
flat
In making
side,
makes the
corset cover stronger to
and neck with a narrow bias binding, instead
hemming them with a narrow hem. Corset Cover Fulled at Neck and Waist Line. Use the shirtwaist draft. Cut out the neck as much as desired. Add
of just
â€”
3 inches
with a narrow
Hem
of the waist, beginning at
seam on the
To
Sew
front
to the
bottom
2
5
Cut from the
another
a
bottom
inches from the under
arm
seam on the
of the waist a circular piece of muslin.
of a circle just Y2 of the waist measure.
Draw
in at the
inches from this
draft this piece, take a radius of 12 inches
3 inches.
Run
lace edge.
Gather the waist
about
and about
not add any
the neck and armholes
hem and sew on beading and
ribbon through the beading.
back.
Do
on the front and nothing on the back.
thing to the bottom of the waist.
arc.
and draw a part
Measure from
this circle
Slant the end out just a
cloth, laying the straight 145
end on the fold
little.
of the
C^sef Cover wiih
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148
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
goods lengthwise.
Sew
waist, having the
seam on the wrong
baste a straight
the top of this piece to the bottom of the
band about
turned up over the seam. turned in the raw edge. righthand
hem and
side.
Before stitching,
% of an inch wide so that Stitch
Work about line,
may be
and turn the band up, having 3 buttonholes
place buttons on the left hem.
at the top, one at the waist
it
and one
half
down the Have one
way between.
LESSON XXXIII SEAMLESS CORSET COVER MADE FROM THE SHIRTWAIST DRAFT i.
Trace
off
on another piece
of
paper the back piece of the
shirtwaist draft. 2.
Measure towards the with point
this point
Measure
3.
with
T by
4.
Lay
T
right from point
by a
to the left of
a straight
V
i
Connect
inch.
straight line.
W
1
inch,
and connect
this
point
line.
these two lines on top of each other
and trace
off
the
waist.
neck as much as desired.
5.
Cut out
6.
Add
7.
Measure
to the right of point
8.
Connect
U
in the
to the front of the
and
V
neck 3 inches.
X3
Point U.
Mark
inches.
with a straight
line.
This
this
line is
V. the
front line of the corset cover. 9.
Cut
all
in one piece, laying the center
back
line
on a fold
of the goods lengthwise.
Gather the bottom, beginning about 2Y2 inches from the Under Arm for the back and 4 inches for the front (Y to V). 10.
11.
Finish the bottom with a circular
corset cover with 12.
frill,
as given for the
Under Arm seam.
Gather the front at the neck, as given for the other corset
cover.
149
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.
LESSON XXXIV women's circular drawers
To
take the measures
Take waist measure, Measure down the above the bend
as for dress.
side of the leg
of the knee.
Measures used
.
â€”
in draft given
from the waist
line to just
â€”
Waist measure
25
inches
Measure
23
inches
Take a
to knee
piece of paper having a square corner
and one straight
edge. 1.
Measure from the corner
2.
With
paper
of the
2
Point
inches.
A.
A as
a center
and a radius
beginning at the edge of the paper. 3.
From B on
this circle
measure
of 10 inches,
Mark
this circle
Mark
inch.
1
draw a
circle,
BC. this point
D. 4.
From
B,
down
the edge of the paper, measure 6 inches.
Mark
this point E.
5
Connect D and
6.
Measure from point
the Waist measure.
E with a straight line.
D
Mark
on
circle
BC
1
inch more than J4
this point F.
7.
From F on
8.
Measure from point D, down the edge
circle
BC measure 4
inches.
Mark
this point
G.
length of leg from waist to knee. 9.
With the corner
from the corner to
of the
Mark
of the paper, the
this point
H.
paper as a center and the distance
H as a radius, 151
draw a
circle
from H.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
152 10.
point
On
from
this circle
H
Mark
measure 24 inches.
this
I.
n. Connect
G with
and
I
12.
From G on
13.
Measure from
a straight
IG measure
line
line.
17% inches. Mark
this
point
j
on
I
circle
1%
HI
Mark
inches.
this
point K. 14.
Connect points
15.
At J square a
K
line
and F with a straight with
line.
line GI.
Place point J on the chart at J on the draft so that the curve just touches line FK. Draw curve. 16.
This finishes the front portion of the drawers.
To 1.
draft the
back
â€”
Measure from the corner
of the
paper
Mark
2 inches.
this
point A. 2.
With A
as a center
and a radius
beginning at the edge of the paper. 3.
4.
Mark
From B on circle BC measure 1 From B, down the edge of the
draw a
this circle
Mark
inch.
circle
BC.
this point
D.
paper, measure 6 inches.
this point E.
D
and
5.
Connect
6.
Measure from
Mark
this point F.
7.
of 10 inches,
Mark
E
D
with a straight
on
circle
line.
BC 34
Measure from F towards B on
circle
the Waist measure.
BC,
1
inch.
Mark
this point G. 8.
leg
Measure from D, down the edge
from waist to knee.
9.
10.
Mark
of the paper, the length of
this point
H.
Measure from point A, 2Y2 inches. Mark this point With I as a center and IH as a radius, draw a
I.
circle
from H. 11.
point 12. 13.
K.
Measure from H, on
this circle, 26 inches.
Mark
this
J.
Connect J and G with a straight line. Measure from G on line GJ, 20 inches.
Mark
this point
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
K
14.
At point
15.
Measure from
K on this line ij^ inches.
16.
Continue
LK
17.
Measure on
153
square a line with line JG.
Mark
this point
L. line
past K.
this line
from K,
2
Mark
inches.
this point
M. 18.
M and F with a straight
Connect
line.
Place point J on the chart at L and hold chart so that the curve just touches line MF. Draw curve. 19.
C
20.
Connect J and
21.
Place point
L
D
with a straight
line.
on the chart at point
on the chart just touches
line
FM.
G
Draw
and hold
so that
curve.
This finishes the back portion of the drawers.
In cutting the pattern from the draft lay line
on
line
EH
of the
EH
of the front
back as there should only be one piece for There should be no seam at the
each leg of the drawers.
side.
TO MAKE THE DIFFERENT SIZES For every inch added to the waist, add the front and curve of the front
HOW
HJ
and GK
of the back.
;
pieces of the material, one for each side.
one front to
line
sewing for about
sew
x inch to GJ Also add /l
of the back.
JI to line LJ of each leg,
seam.
inch to curve HI of
TO CUT MAKE AND FINISH THE CIRCULAR DRAWERS
Cut out two of
1
fell
This seam should be
Cut a
I.)
bias
band about
to the rest of this line FJ, placing the bias
after
FJ
1
F and
made
a
fell
inch wide and
band on the
right
seam about J^ i ncn frÂ° m tne Turn the band over on the wrong side of the garment, and turning in the raw edge, stitch into place. Put a bias
side of the garment.
edge.
Sew
seam.
line
line
FJ of the other, beginning at point
7 inches.
(See Lesson
making a
Sew
facing on lines
GL
Stitch in a
of
both backs just as you have just been
CO
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PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
156
Sew line DE
taught to do on the fronts.
making a
fell
seam.
put on just as you did the other this
one
will
finishes the
have
it
to
little
2Y2 or 3 inches wide. off as
Sew one edge
time you sew the
up
it is
DE at each side,
The lower edge
put on a
drawers except the bottoms of the
must be cut
wide.
facings.
to be stretched, as
be finished just with a ruffle
to line
Finish about the top with a bias facing,
much
The
draft was
at the
of the facing
ruffle,
legs.
lace edge, or they
bottom
made
circle.
of
This
These may may have a
full length, so
as the
trimming
is
about the bottom at the same
turn in the raw edge, and turn the facing
form a narrow hem.
Three buttons and buttonholes should
be placed down the back, beginning at G, about
Rather large buttons are
best.
2
inches apart.
LESSON XXXV DRAFTING THE PEINCESS GOWN
The
waist part of the princess
French forms.
tight waist with
Measures used
for draft given
gown
is
drafted just like the
â€”
Waist measure Neck measure
25
Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure
.
i.
Draw line AB
2.
Measure from
inches
13^2 inches 15
length of
A
the
inches
39
inches
i^H
inches
7^
inches
15X 10^
inches inches
16
inches
Back measure.
Under Arm measure.
Mark
this
point C.
D
3.
B
4.
At
5.
Measure from
D
6.
Place point
on the chart at B and draw curve through
7.
At C square a
line
to
D
is
Y2 inch.
square a line with AD.
on
this line
\x
/l inches.
Mark
this
point
E.
E.
8.
9.
with AB.
C to F is Y2 of Bust measure. From C on line CF measure Y2
of
back width.
Mark
this
point G.
G
10.
At
11.
Measure on
Mark
square a line with line CF.
this point
this line
from point
H. 157
G
13 of
Armhole measure.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
158 12.
D
Place point
on the chart at point E, and draw curve
13.
Extend curve J^ inch beyond H. Extend line GH above H 1% inches. Mark
14.
At
15.
On
16.
From
through H.
this point I.
I square a line with line GI.
measure from
this line
Mark
I 2 inches.
this point
j
Mark
G
on
this point
CF measure 34
line
of
Armhole measure.
K.
17.
Find a point half way between
18.
At
K and G.
Mark
this
point
L.
19.
'point 20.
K
square a line with CF.
Measure on
this line
Mark
2Y2 inches from K.
this
M. Measure
full
length of curve EH, and measure the
Mark
length from J on line IJ, extended.
this point
21.
Place point
G
on the chart at
H and draw
22.
Place point
O
on the chart at
M
23.
Place point
F on
24.
Square a
25.
Measure on
same
N.
curve through
L.
and draw curve through
L.
the chart at
M and draw a curve through
j
line
with
line
CF
so that
it will
pass through
N. less
what
is
this line
from CF the Upper Front measure,
Mark
used in the back neck.
D
Place point
27.
From O measure on
this point 0.
and draw curve through
on the chart at
26.
34 of Neck measure.
this line
Mark
this point P. 28.
At P square a
29.
Measure on
add 34 mcn

line
with
this line
Mark
line
from
P
0P. 16 of the
Neck measure and
this point Q.
30.
Place point J on the chart at
31.
From Q draw
O. line
through F.
Q
and draw curve through
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 32.
Mark 33. 34.
Mark
From Q on this point
159
measure the Front length measure.
this line
R.
At L square a Measure on
with
line
this line
line
from
CF.
L
Under Arm measure.
the
this point S.
35.
Connect S and
36.
From A on
A with a straight line.
% of an inch.
measure
this line
Mark
this
point T.
T and B
37.
Connect
38.
Measure on the shoulder curve
hole. 39.
Mark
40.
41.
inches from the
2
Arm
U.
Mark
left of this point.
T
From V measure
\}/Âą
this
and
%
Measure
S.
point V.
Mark
inches to the right.
this
W. Connect
U
and
UW. Draw
43.
Measure
44.
Place point
W with a straight
C on
42. Place point line
line.
Find a point half way between
inch to the
point
this point
with a straight
the chart at
V
line.
and
point
let
D
touch
curve.
to the right of S,
D
1
Mark
inch.
on the chart at
this point
L and draw
X.
curve through
X. 45.
Measure
to the left of S,
46. Place point
A
i% inches. Mark
on the chart at
Y
this point
Y.
and draw curve through
L. 47.
Measure from
how much
of
T
to
W
and from
V
to
X.
This shows
the Yl Waist measure has been used in the
back. 48. ]/2
From
point
Y
towards
R
measure what
Waist measure after taking out what
Mark 49.
is
is
left
of
the
used in the back.
this point.
Measure the distance from
this point to point
R.
This gives what must be taken out in the dart to bring the waist in to the desired measure. 50.
Place point
draw curve
to S.
C on
In this case
the chart at
R
it is
4^
inches.
and with curve CF
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
160
51.
Measure from J on curve JO,
52.
Measure from
53.
Connect a and Z with a straight
54.
Measure from a on
Mark
2 inches.
this point
Z.
6 for a short figure. 55.
Measure
R
Mark
56.
Place point
tall figure
and
this point c.
Mark
B on
this point a.
line.
aZ 8 inches for a
line
to the right of a
taken out in the dart.
Mark
2Y2 inches.
4^ inches,
amount
or the
to
be
this point b.
the chart at c and with curve
AB
con
nect c with b. 57.
Measure down from
R5
inches and from this point meas
R
ure to the right J^ inch more than from
Mark
to a.
this point
e.
58.
Draw
a straight line from a through e and continue
Point
the length of the front skirt measure. 59.
Continue
measure.
QFR down
line
Point
it
f.
length of front skirt
the
d.
60.
Connect d and
61.
Square a
line at
f
with a straight
b with
line ab
line.
and continue
it
down
the
length of front skirt measure. 62.
Continue
LS down below S
line
5 inches.
Mark
this
point h. 63.
Measure
64.
Place point
Extend
i.
line
1
Mark
inch to the right of h.
D
on the chart at
down
slant of this line will
Y and
this point
draw curve through
the length of side skirt measure.
depend on how
i.
The
the skirts are being
full
worn. 65.
Draw
straight line from
X
Continue down
through h.
length of side skirt measure. 66. line
Find a point half way between
with line
67.
Draw
VW
and draw
5
V
through
line
through
W
and square a
Mark
inches long.
V
straight line from
and
j
this point
j.
and continue down
length of back skirt measure. 68.
From
W draw straight
length of back skirt measure.
j
and continue down
JWftcess Gowyl.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
jfa 69.
Continue
70.
From T draw
line
AB
5 inches
Mark
below A.
this point k.
Continue down
straight line through k.
length of back measure.
The will
slant of all the lines to 5 inches below the waist
depend on the hip measure. From
entirely
on the
this point
fullness of the skirts being worn.
should always slant more than the front, to
fit
down it depends The back lines
over the large part
of the hips.
The
draft given
makes a medium width
measure
skirt.
LESSON XXXVI DRAFTING THE SINGLE

BREASTED,
TIGHT

FITTING,
TAILORED
COAT In drafting the coat some of the measures must be increased, as the coat
We
made
is
add
to go
inch to Waist
measure
inches
13^
inches
inch to Armhole measure
16
inches
inch to Bust measure
40
inches
14
inches
1 1
dress.
26
i
Neck measure same
Add Add Add
on over the
as for dress
yi inch to Back Width measure
Under
Arm same
7^
as for dress
Front Length same as for dress.
Add
yi inch to Upper Front Back Length same as for dress
i.
Draw AB
2.
Measure on
Mark 3.
inches
i$}4 inches
n>ÂŁ
inches
16
inches
length of back. line
A
AB from
the
Under Arm measure.
this point C.
Continue
line
AB above B
%
of
an inch.
Mark
this
point D.
5.
At D square a Measure from
D
6.
Place point
on the chart at B and draw curve through
4.
line
with
on
AB.
line
this line
1%
inches.
Mark
this
point
E.
E. 7.
8.
At C square a line with line AB. Measure from C on this line J^ the Bust measure.
Mark
this point F. 9.
Mark 10.
Measure from C on
line
CF the Back Width measure.
point G.
At
G
square a line with line CF. 163
.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
164 ii.
Measure on
12.
this line 13 of the
Armhole measure.
Mark
H.
this point
Place point
H. Extend curve
D
on the chart at
3^2
mcn beyond H.
GH
13.
Extend
14.
At
15.
Measure from
16.
Measure
line
E
and draw curve through
H 1% inches.
above
Mark
this point
Mark
this point
I.
I
square a line with line GI.
on
I
this line 2
inches.
j
Mark 17.
G on line
to left of
this point
CF 34
the
Armhole measure.
K.
G and K. Mark
this point
2% inches. Mark
this point
Find a point half way between
L. 18. 19.
K
At
square a line with CF.
From K measure on
this line
M. 20.
G
Place point
on the chart at the end
of
EH
curve
and draw curve through L. 21
Place point
22.
Place point
23.
Extend
M and draw curve through
on the chart at
L.
F on
M and draw curve through
the chart at
j
24.
same
line I J.
Measure the
25.
Square a
26.
Measure on
measure, 27.
Place
through 28.
less
line
Mark
with
line
this point
CF
this line
what
is
point
D
EH and measure
length of curve
full
distance from J.
N.
so that
from
it
will pass
CF
line
the
used in the back neck.
on
the
chart
the
through N.
Upper Front
Mark
point O.
and draw curve
at
J.
Measure from
on
line
ON
J^>
the
Neck measure.
Mark
this point P. 29.
At P square a
line
with
line
ON.
From P on this line, measure J4 inch. Mark this point Q. 30.
13 the
Neck measure
plus
.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 31.
Place point
N on
165
and draw curve through
the chart at
Q32.
Draw
33.
Measure on
Mark
Q through F. Q the Front
a straight line from
this point
this line
from
Length measure.
R.
K
34. Find a point half way between
Mark
and L.
this
point S. 35. 36.
Mark
At S square a
line
with
Measure from S on
line
CF.
Under Arm measure.
this line the
this point T.
T
and
37.
Connect
38.
Measure on
A
with a straight
this line
line.
Mark
from A, Y2 of an inch.
this
point U.
U
and B with a
39.
Connect
40.
Measure from U, ij^
41.
Find a point half way between
curve EH.
Mark
Measure from V, ij^
C on
Place point line
E
WV. Draw
45.
Measure
46.
Place point
V.
and the other end of
line.
Mark
inches.
the chart at
X
X.
this point
D
to
this point
Y.
and allow point
curve.
to the right of T,
D
this point
W.
W and V with a straight
Connect
43.
44.
Mark
inches.
this point
42.
touch
straight line.
1
Mark
inch.
on the chart at S and draw curve through
Y. 47.
Y
and X.
Mark
this
to the right of Z, J^ of
an inch.
Mark
this
to the right of a,
Mark
Find a point half way between
point Z. 48.
point
Measure a.
49.
Measure
50.
Place point
curve through 51
Gb.
G
and continue
Place point
Draw
C
1
inch.
this point b.
on the chart at b, and with curve to
Armhole
CF draw
line.
C on the chart at a and allow
D
to touch
curve
curve.
52.
Measure
53.
Place point
to the left of
T
ij^ inches.
A on the chart at
c
Mark
this point c.
and draw curve through
S.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
166
Place point
54
curve through
to
C on
From
56.
Measure from
Mark
point
and d with a straight
58.
Measure up from d on
Mark
6 for full form.
59.
Find on the
this point at
U
E
line.
line de, 8 inches for slender form,
this point
tapeline,
f.
3^ of the Waist measure.
U
and measure from
then from a to Y.
this point d.
e.
Connect
e
Mark
inches.
on curve J0 the same distance as
57.
and
R and with curve CF draw
R measure to the right 3
55.
W.
the chart at
c.
to V, then
from
Place
X
to b,
Place the point on the tapeline which
falls
at Y, at point c and with the rest of the Waist measure, measure
Mark where
towards R. 60.
From
this point to
the end of the tapeline
R is
the
falls.
amount which must be taken In
out in the dart to bring the coat in to the desired measure. this case it is 5 inches. 61.
Measure from d on curve Rc the amount
in the dart. 62.
Place
Mark this point g. point B on the chart
at
f
to be taken out
and draw curve through
g.
TO FORM SKIRT OF COAT
63.
Continue
line
64.
Connect
U
down as long as the
AB below
A
coat
is
Mark
5 inches.
and h with a straight
line.
this point h.
Continue
line
to be.
V and X. Mark this point
65.
Find a point half way between
66. 67.
At i square a line with line AT. Measure from i on this line 5 inches.
68.
Connect
i.
lines
down
to
j
with
bottom
Mark
this point
V and with X by straight lines.
j.
Continue
of coat.
69.
Find a point half way between a and
70.
At k square a line with line AT. Measure from k on this line 5 inches.
b.
Mark
this
point
k.
71.
Mark
this point
1.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING Connect
72. line
down
with a and with b by a straight
1
Continue
line.
the length of the coat.
Continue
73.
i6j
T
ST below
line
Mark
5 inches.
this
point
m.
Y
Connect
74.
down
m
with
by a
straight line
and continue
line
the length of coat.
75.
Measure
76.
Place point
77.
Square a
to the right of
F on
m,
1
Mark
inch.
the chart at c and
this point n.
draw curve through
n.
Draw
line
from d to
g.
line the length of the coat.
Measure down from R,
78.
R
g with the straight
line at
with
79.
Square a
80.
Measure from o on
line
line
5 inches.
QR
at
Mark
this point o.
o.
this line
J^ of an inch more than from
Mark this point p. Draw a straight line from d
through p and continue down
to d. 81.
the length of the coat.
This forms the skirt of the coat, making a coat of
The
fullness.
Draw
worn.
must be governed by the more or
fullness
the lines from the hips down,
medium
coats
being
less slanting
as desired.
The
coat, as it
is,
comes together
just
in front.
We must add
something for lap for buttons and buttonholes. 82.
inches. 83.
inches. 84.
line
QR and measure from F
2
square a line with line
QR and measure from R,
2
At F square a
Mark At
R
line
with
this point q.
Mark this point r. Draw a line through q and PQ out
85.
Continue
86.
Measure down from
line
Q
and
87.
Connect
88.
Measure from
tance. 89.
Mark
t
to qr.
JÂŁ of
an
Mark inch.
with a straight
on
this point
Mark
s.
this
point
t.
line.
line tq, 8 inches, or
any desired
dis
this point u.
Continue
this point v.
t
s,
r the full length of coat.
line
JN
until it touches the neck curve.
Mark
Snrfle
J.W.J TÂ»*H* m,V *
Co ^
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING Measure down from v on the neck curve, 3^
90.
169
inch.
Mark
this point w.
Connect
91.
w
and u with a straight
line.
This forms the
Lapel.
to draft the collar
92.
Measure from
on the shoulder curve, Y% inch.
Mark
this point x.
93.
Place point
94.
Extend
measures.
D on the chart at v and draw curve through x.
this
Mark
curve beyond x as
much
this point y.
96.
Connect y and x with a straight line. Square a line with this line at y.
97.
Measure on
98.
Measure
95.
as the back neck
this line
from
y,
2^ inches. Mark
this point
z.
to the right
from
z,
J^ inch.
Mark
this point
aa. 99.
100. 101.
Measure from y on line yz 1 inch. Connect aa and bb with a straight Square a
line
with
Mark
this point bb.
line.
line wu, so that it will
run through
point Q. 102.
103.
Measure from Q, iJi inches. Mark this point cc. Place point B on the chart at aa and draw curve through
cc.
104.
bb.
Place point
C on
the chart at v and draw curve through
LESSON XXXVII LOOSEFITTING UNLINED COAT
Measures used
i.
2.
for this draft
â€”
Neck measure
13
Armbole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure Length from back of neck bottom of coat Length from front of neck, bottom of coat
17
inches
40
inches
14
inches
7^
inches
inches
i$}4 inches
straight
down back
straight
down
11X
inches
16
inches
58^
inches
$5H
inches
to
front to
Draw
line AB length of back to waist line. From A measure on line AB Under Arm measure. Mark
this point C.
m ch.
3.
From B measure up Y2
4.
At
5.
From
6.
Place point
on the chart at B, and draw curve through
7.
At C square a
line
8.
From C measure on
D
Mark
this point
D.
square a line with AD.
D
on
this line
1%
measure
inches.
Mark
this point
E.
E.
with
line
AB.
this line
Y2 of Bust measure.
Mark
this point F. 9.
From C on
Mark
this point
10.
At
G
line
CF measure
Y of Back Width measure.
G.
square a line with line CF. 171
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
172 ii.
Mark
Measure from
G
on
this line
J
of
Armhole measure.
H.
this point
12.
Continue the
13.
Place point
above
line
H i%
inches.
Mark
this point
I.
H.
D
Extend curve Y2 14. 15.
16.
Mark
E
on the chart at
and draw curve through
m ch beyond H.
At I square a line with line GI. From I on this line measure 2 inches. Mark this point J. From G on line CF measure 34 of Armhole measure. K.
this point
17.
Find a point half way between
18.
At
19.
Place point
G and K. Mark this point
L.
K square a line with line CF. G on
Mark
this point
the chart at end of curve
M.
EH and draw
curve through L. 20.
Place point
O
21
Place point
F on
22.
Continue
23.
From J on
on the chart at
M and draw curve through
L. the chart at
M and draw curve through
j
full
line I J to the left. this line
length of curve EH.
24.
Square a
25.
From
measure
less
line
measure the same distance as the
Mark
this point
with line CF so that
N.
it will
pass through N.
CF, measure on this line the Upper Front
line
what
is
used in the back neck.
Mark
this point
O. 26.
Place point
27.
From
D
and draw curve through
on the chart at
j
measure down Y2
of
Neck measure.
Mark
this
point P. 28.
29.
At P square a line with line OP. Measure from P on this line 13
34 inch. 30.
O.
Mark
of
Neck measure,
plus
this point Q.
Place point J on the chart at
Q
and draw curve through
Loose
Fi\\iy\ยง
Uy\line3 Coaf.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
174 31.
Draw
32.
Find a point half way between
Q
straight line from
through F.
K
and L.
Mark
this
point R.
At
33. 34.
R
square a line with line CF.
Measure on
Mark
Arm
measure.
Mark
this point
from R, the Under
this line
this point S.
Measure
35.
to the left of S,
% of an inch.
T.
Draw
36.
down
Measure down from
37.
Q
on
U
38.
At
39.
Measure on
T
and continue
it
from
this line
Connect point
40.
N
the length you wish
U.
this point
V
U
4 inches, for the lap of the
Mark
this point V.
and a point on the neck curve opposite
with a straight
line.
U
Measure down from
41.
QF
line
square a line with line QU.
coat in front (doublebreasted).
point
through
Mark
your coat to open in the neck.
point
R
a straight line from
the length of the coat.
any convenient
distance.
Mark
W.
W square a with W on
42.
At
43.
Measure from
line
QW.
line
this line
mcn
Y2
Mark this point X. Draw a straight line from V down the length of coat. Point Y.
l
ess
than from
U to
V.
through
44.
45.
Continue
The
line
line
AB down
RT forms
X
and continue
the length of coat.
the under
arm
line for
both front and
back. If
of
more
%
of
fullness is desired,
measure
an inch, and measure
%
of
1
inch from S to T, instead
an inch to the right of
S.
Draw lines from R through these points. These coats are usually made up without a collar or with a large sailor collar. The sleeves may be made a medium sized flowing sleeve or the regulation coat sleeve.
LESSON XXXVIII THE SLIGHTLY FITTED COAT
Measures used
â€”
for draft given
Waist measure Neck measure Armhole measure Bust measure Back Width measure Under Arm measure Front Length measure Upper Front measure Back Length measure
26
20
2.
inches inches
14
7K
inches
15K
inches
11^4 inches
16
Draw AB length of back. From A measure the Under Arm
1.
inches
\$yi inches 16 inches
inches
Mark
measure.
this
point C. 3.
Measure above B, Y2
4.
At
5.
From
D
Mark
inch.
this point
D.
square a line with line AD.
D
on
this line
measure
1%
inches.
Mark
this point
E. 6.
At C square a
7.
Measure from C on
line
with
line
AB.
Bust measure.
Mark
this
CF measure the Back Width.
Mark
this
this line the
point F.
From C on
8.
line
point G.
At
9.
10.
Mark 11.
H.
G
square a line with line CF.
Measure from this point
G
on
this line 13 of
Armhole measure.
H.
Place point
D
on the chart at
Extend curve Y% inch beyond H. 175
E and draw
curve through
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
176 12.
Extend
13.
At
14.
From
GH
line
H
above
ij^ inches.
Mark
this point
Mark
this point
I.
I square a line I
on
with line GI.
this line
measure
2
inches.
j15.
Mark 16.
G
Measure from this point
on
line
CF 34 the Armhole measure.
K.
K
Find a point half way between
and G.
Mark
this
point L.
K square a line with line CF. K on this line 2Y2 inches.
17.
At
18.
Measure from
Mark
this point
of curve
EH and
M. 19.
Place point
G
on the chart at the end
draw curve through L. on the chart at
M and draw curve through
20.
Place point
21.
Place point
22.
Measure curve EH and measure the same distance from
L.
F on
the chart at
M and draw curve through
j
J.
Mark 23.
this point
Square a
N.
line
with
line
CF
so that it will pass through
point N. 24.
Measure from
ure, less 25.
what
is
line
CF on
this line the
Upper Front meas
Mark
used in the back neck.
this point 0.
Measure down from 0, /i the Neck measure. x
Mark
this
point P. 26. 27.
At P square a line with Measure from P on this
line
0P.
line 16 of
Neck measure. Mark
this point Q.
N on
28.
Place point
29.
Draw
30.
Measure from
the chart at
and draw curve through
Q
a line from
Q
Q
on
through F. this line the
Front Length.
point R. 31.
At L, square a
line
with
line
FC.
Mark
this
.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
L
Measure from
32.
Mark
on
this line the
177
Under Arm measure.
this point S.
A
33.
Connect S and
34.
Measure from A,
with a straight 13 the distance
line.
A to S. Mark this
from
point T. 35. 36.
Measure Y2 inch to the left of T. Mark this point U. Find a point half way between E and the end of curve
EH. Mark
this point V.
37.
Connect
U and V with a straight line.
38.
Measure
to the left of
C on
39. Place point
UV.
line
Draw
U,
Y inch. Mark this point W. W and allow curve to touch
the chart at
curve.
40.
Measure
41.
Place point
to the right of S, Y2 inch
C on
the chart at
Mark
L and draw
X.
this point
curve through
X. 42.
Measure
to the left of S,
43. Place point 44.
B on
Measure from
R
1
chart at
inch.
Mark
L and draw
13 the distance
from
this point
Y.
curve through Y.
R to Y. Mark this
point Z.
45
Measure from
Mark
O.
E to V, and measure this same distance from
this point a.
46.
Connect a and Z with a straight
47.
Find out how much should be taken out on the dart to
line.
bring the coat in tight to the waist and take out about 23 of this
amount.
48.
Draw
Mark
this point b.
a straight line from b to the point where b'ne
CF
crosses line aZ.
z.
49.
Continue
line
QR below A
6 inches.
50.
Measure from
c square over
Y2 inch more than from
Mark 51.
52.
with
R to
this point d.
Connect d and Z by a straight
line.
Connect Z and b with a straight
line
and square a
line
this line at b.
53.
Measure down 6
54.
Continue
line
inches.
AB below
Mark
this point e.
a 6 inches.
Mark
this point
f.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
178
Mark
and U.
this
g.
Square a
56.
line at
g with line AS.
58.
Measure down from g 6 Connect h with U and
59.
Continue
57.
Mark
inches.
W by straight
line
Square a
62.
Measure from F on
this line
63.
Square a
line
on
line
with line
line
this point
i.
X and Y by straight lines.
Connect
61.
i
point h.
this
lines.
Mark
LS down 6 inches.
60.
Q
W
Find a point half way between
55.
point
with line
with
QR QR
at F.
Mark
4 inches.
this point
j.
at a point ij^ inches below
QR.
64.
Measure from
Q
65.
Connect k and
j
66.
Measure from k on
on
this line 4 inches.
Mark
this
point
k.
with a straight
line.
line kj 9 inches, or as
wish the coat to open in front.
Mark
this point
Measure down ^2 mcn frÂ° m where neck curve. Mark this point m. 67.
Connect
68.
m
and
1
with a straight
line
much
as
you
1.
JN meets the This forms the
line.
LAPEL.
In making the coat lap the fronts so that
on
falls
line
QR
line
QR
of
one side
of the other.
TO DRAFT THE COLLAR
69.
Mark 70. n.
Measure from
on the shoulder curve
%
an inch.
of
this point n.
Place point
Extend curve
measures.
Mark
D
on the chart at
as
m and draw curve
much beyond n
as the
back
through
of the
neck
this point o.
71.
Square a
72.
Measure from o on
line at o
with a straight this
line
line
from n
ij^ inches.
to o.
Mark
this
point p. 73. q
Continue the
line
x up from p \ /l
inches.
Mark
this point
SliqlU)!
Fitte*
C'*h
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
180
m '
74.
Measure
75.
Measure from k
76.
Place point
77.
Place point
to the right of
q 34 inch.
2% inches. Mark
Mark
this point r.
this point
s.
D on the chart at m and draw curve through s. D on the chart at p and draw curve through
(break of collar.) 78.
Square a
line
with
79.
Measure from
80.
Square a
81.
Measure from
82.
Place point
83.
Place point
line
s
on
line
m1 so that
it
this line 2 inches.
passes through
Mark
s.
this point t,
with line m1 at m.
m on this line 2^ inches.
Mark
this
point
u.
B on F on
chart at r and chart at
t
draw curve through
u.
and draw curve through
u.
LESSON XXXIX HOW
TO MAKE AND FINISH THE TAILORED COAT
We have taught you how to draft the coat. atively easy thing, but to
make
difficult things the dressmaker
you
is
the coat
called
you
follow our directions carefully
After
having made your
draft,
upon will
make
were taught to do in making the gowns.
This
is
a compar
one of the most
is
However,
to do.
have
if
trouble.
little
a pattern, just as you
Lay
goods, having the wrong side of the goods up.
the pattern on the If the
goods has a
Be sure to have the waist line of THE STRAIGHT PATTERN OF THE GOODS CROSSWISE. Mark THE ON nap, this should run down.
carefully
all
seams and the waist
where the pockets are to be.
line
Mark
with
tailor's chalk, also
the line which
is
mark
the turn of
the lapel, where the bottom of the coat should be, and for the
buttons and buttonholes.
all
been marked
them with a running stitch, using a contrasting color from the goods. Be very careful
with the chalk, trace on a thread of
After these lines have
to keep exactly
on the
all of
line.
We
are
now ready The
the curve which gives the garment style. give will
be for the fitted coat.
fitted will
A
not need
and the semi
must always be used in making the The main reason why a dressmaker's coat
has the style of the tailored garment
used by the
tailor is
flatiron
as hot as
it
we
it.
always pressed with a
nary
loose coat
It is
directions
large tailor's iron
lored garment.
dom
The
and
to shrink
stretch the different parts, to give it the desired curves.
common
is
flatiron.
because
The
it is
taisel
nearly
iron which is
never lighter than 15 pounds, while the ordi
only weighs about 3 or 4 pounds.
can be used without scorching.
Heat the iron
Never use
bare goods and never on the right side of the goods. 181
it
on the
Use a clean
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
182
sponge to dampen the goods and a piece of clean muslin without starch to place between the goods and the iron.
dead
press.
a flat
It
must be hard enough
We
are ready to proceed
ironingboard, not too heavily padded. to give the goods a very
Have
With the wet sponge dampen
with the shrinking and stretching.
a line on each piece, represented in the drawing by letters C, D.
While they are
still
â€žany
little
creases are pressed in
This
is all
there
may
seem,
it is
is
it is
smooth under the
very
really difficult
For
this
made.
you must study the form For a very
full
form you
out. it
practice.
to give the desired curve.
which the garment
for
If
but as simple as
and needs considerable
Now we will begin to stretch the seams,
B,
iron.
them
difficult to get
to the shrinking process,
;
Be very
wet, place the iron on them.
careful to have the goods perfectly
A
is
being
need to stretch the seams
will
quite a bit, while for a very slender person they will only be
stretched a very
Take the
arm seam it is
little.
front piece
first.
at the waist line
wet, place
it
Dampen with
and a
little
the sponge the under
above and below.
on the board, and as
it is
as
it
Nov/ dampen the place which comes at the highest
desired.
part of the bust (indicated by a cross on the drawing). this
While
pressed stretch
by moving the
care not to stretch
give nearly
all
that
Stretch
Take great seam will Take the under arm piece and line as you did the front, also
iron about in a small circle.
too much, as the curve of the
it
needed.
is
stretch each edge at the waist
The back
stretch the waist line at point a.
pieces will not
need to be stretched, unless for a very full form, as the back straighter than the front careful to stretch each
We
are
ready now
and does not need
so
much
curve.
is
Be
seam the same amount.
to
sew up the seams.
Sew
the two front
the seams pieces together first. Before beginning to baste, pin between these points at the waist line, then at the shoulder and in ,
more than every few inches, as in basting one side will stretch the other. coat.
Now
Continue the pinning down to the bottom of the rather baste the seam with a running stitch, taking
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
183
Next pin and baste the two back form the same way. The seams next to the middle
small, even stitches.
pieces together in
back seam are usually
for
about 4 or
from the
5 inches
back seam
open instead of the side ones, from the waist
line to the
bottom, is left
open
left
a short jacket. If a long coat, then the
bottom
if it is
When
of the coat.
these seams are left open a piece
be cut on one side of the seam to run under the opening. the front to the under
under arm
to the
arm
piece,
If the
before pressing. shears. If
back parts
Stitch the seams,
dampen and
goods has a nap the seams should be scraped
Scrape against the nap with a dull knife or
This gives a flatter appearance to the seam when pressed.
pockets are put in the coat they must be located with great
No
care.
matter how well the coat
badly located the coat
by
last of all the
each case beginning at the under arm
piece, in
piece and working both ways. press open.
and
must Baste
will look
is
made,
homemade.
practice just where the pocket should be,
locate
if
the pockets are
Until you learn
you
have
will
to
them by placing the garment on the patron and placing
You will soon learn to tell very nearly where they should be. To put in the pocket Place a piece of linen canvas back of the marking for the pocket. Make them where they look the
best.
â€”
a,
smooth
straig ht cut
on the
line of basting.
J about
the goods thus, V
1
Lay one
two pieces are the pocket.
side of the coat, so that the top edge
lower side of the cut.
Have
of the pieces
cord.
on the right
comes just even with the
making a very small seam.
this piece of the pocket through the opening, little of
pieces of
the right side of the goods together.
Stitch across on the machine,
that a
Cut two
inch longer than the cut; these
Push
and turn down so
the pocket shows from the right side, like a small
Stitch across on the right side near the first stitching.
Now make a flap for the pocket. Cut a piece of the goods about 2% inches wide and Y2 inch longer than the opening of the pocket. Turn
the ends in a
little
more than J^ inch, and one long
same amount. Dampen and
press a dead
press.
side the
Fit a piece of
the material to be used for the coat lining to this piece of goods,
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
1 84
turning in
Do
the edges, except the one unfinished side.
all
have the lining come quite to the edge.
Press again without
dampening, and stitch about the three sides so that the
it is
finished should be just the size of the opening.
Place the flap with
against the right side of the
its right side
above the opening, so that
coat,
its
with the upper side of the opening. small seam.
stitch
This finishes the flap for the pocket.
ing will catch the lining.
The flap when
not
Turn the
flap
unfinished edge Stitch across,
down over
is
just even
making a
very
the opening, and turn the
seam up and baste on the outside near the
Put
first stitching.
Now
the right side of this piece against the right side of the coat.
lay the other piece of the pocket on the wrong side of the coat so that the straight side
on
this basting,
The two
over.
of the other.
is
just
above
them together
The
so they will not rip.
of finishing the pocket.
many
in a flat seam.
This
There are
is
many
the most
Keep your
the canvas in the coat.
weight cotton canvas, which goods
is
is
on the ironingboard.
dry.
side
may
The canvas must be
and spread over
Turn
you
it.
If the
coat
is
made
be lined with a light
be bought at any dry goods
firm and heavy this interlining need not
used by dressmakers for flat
eyes open and
of them.
Now we must put
be used.
common way
fancy ways to be found
of rather light goods, the entire coat should
If the
on top
Stitch twice
front edge of the flap should always
on the readymade garments.
store.
Turn the coat
pieces which form the pocket will He one
Stitch
follow the front edge of the coat.
will learn
this last basting; stitch
being careful to catch the pocket.
tailor's
canvas, and not the kind
Spread the canvas many purposes. Wet a large piece of muslin very wet
Iron with a very hot iron until the cloth
the canvas over and place the wet cloth on this
and press dry.
Remove
the cloth and press the canvas
Spread the canvas on the cuttingtable and put the pattern on it. Trace the shape shown in the drawing, until thoroughly dry.
remove the pattern and cut
out. In cutting this piece the length
wise threads of the canvas should follow the edge of the coat.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
185
Slash the edge of the canvas in about 1Y2 inches where
over the most prominent part of the bust, half
neck and armhole at the shoulder seam, and about the shoulder seam in the neck.
baste pieces of canvas back of together again. of the bust
Dampen
comes
it
way between 2
the
inches from
Stretch these slashes open and
them
so that they cannot
come
the canvas where the prominent part
comes and stretch
to
Two
form the proper shape.
of
these pieces should be prepared, one for each side of the coat.
Baste them into place, having the edge of the canvas come even
Cut the canvas back about J4 of an inch from the cloth. Now we must pad the lapels with the
with the coat. the edge of
padding
stitch.
Begin at the
gether.
line for the
Take the
turn of the lapel.
so that
it
shows on the right
Completely
side.
the lapel
rill
As the
with stitches, done in rows following the line of turning.
work is done cause the it
to turn
lapel to
have a
more gracefully and give
vide yourself with some stay tape.
putting is
it
on rather
tightly.
Do
This
will
cause
style to the garment.
Pro
slight curl.
Fasten
about the edge,
this
not allow the stitches where
Dampen and
fastened to show on the right side.
Now
to
through the canvas and into the goods, but not through
stitches it
These stitches should be short and near
sew up the shoulder seams, without catching
it
press dry.
in the canvas.
Press with a dead press and allow the canvas to he flat over the
seam.
Cut two
pieces of the goods the
for a facing of the coat.
same shape
as the canvas,
Baste the edges of the facing to the
edges of the coat, having the right side of the facing against the Stitch the edges as near the stay tape as
right side of the coat. possible.
Turn
and baste the edges
together,
making a
sure that the corner of the lapel
good shaped corner. finished
wrong
the facing over on the
is
straight,
Roll the lapel over as
Fold
for the interlining,
this
it
it
should
Cut a piece
Be
makes a
roll
line of turning.
the back edge of the facing to the coat.
inches wide.
even edge.
pulled out so that
and baste the facing along the
canvas which was used
side of the coat
when Baste
of the light
on the bias, about
1^/2
through the center lengthwise and baste
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
186
the turned edge along the thread where the coat
about the bottom. will stay exactly
Use short
is
to turn
up
stitches in basting this so that it
Turn
on the thread.
the goods
up on
this
canvas, being sure to turn on the exact line for the bottom.
We are ready to put on
Have
seams everywhere.
and cut two goods,
two
mark
Trace
the collar.
draft on another piece of paper
the collar from the
out, allowing
mcn
}/[
the right sides of the goods together
Before raising the pattern from the
pieces together.
the back seam.
Stitch this, open
pieces of canvas on the bias
the back
off
and cut
by
the
and
same pattern.
seam and press open. Lay the back seam
Cut
press.
of the
Stitch
canvas
on the back seam of the goods, having the canvas on the wrong Baste the canvas and the cloth together
side of the goods.
Cut the canvas away from the outside edge and
thoroughly.
at the ends about 34 inch.
Fasten the canvas to the goods with
a padding stitch, stretching the goods a
canvas, so that the collar will
roll as it
The padding should be done from is
little
should
tighter than the
when on
the canvas side.
the coat.
After this
thoroughly done, stitch the collar with straight rows of stitch
ing until the point
reached where the collar turns.
is
From
this
point to the outer edge stitch with a row of zigzag stitching extending the full length of the collar. Thus 
Cut another piece from the goods by the same pattern but having no seam in the back.
Lay
the back edge of the pattern
x inch on the Allow about /i Baste pieces. as did on the other and allow seams you neck edge
on
fold of the
goods length wise.
this piece to the collar
of the
goods together.
you have prepared, having the right
and the outside edge, near the edge collar so that
sides
Stitch on the machine along the two ends of the canvas.
Turn the
both sides are of the goods and the canvas
is
tween. Baste along the edge, making a smooth even, edge.
be
Pin
the back seam of the collar, leaving the outside piece of the goods loose, to the
back seam
of the coat.
Have
collar against the right side of the coat.
the under side of the
Pin the neck edge of
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
way from
the collar each
that the ends of the collar
the seam to the neck of the coat so
come
at point
stitch
on the machine.
Q on
Dampen and press open,
taking great
Bring the right side of the collar
care not to spoil the curve.
over smoothly and baste along the line of turning.
on over a
is
to the
You
neck seam, and baste.
seam where the facing and the
little
which
is
it will
follow the
1%
the draft, or
Baste this seam firmly
inches from the point of the lapels.
and
187
Bring
it
will find that there
collar
meet at each end,
Bring the seam together neatly so that
not stitched.
seam underneath
it
and blind
stitch with very
Stitch all about the edge of the coat about J4 inch from the edge. Be very careful when you stitch about the
small stitches.
and collar
lapels
We
to turn
are ready
the lining
Cut the
%
of
now
to line the coat.
same
Cut the back pieces
of
an inch larger than the pattern at the back seam.
side pieces the
pieces the
good square corners.
same
Cut the front
as the pattern.
as the pattern, but
when you
side
cut the front pieces,
lay a plait in the goods about the center of the shoulder seam
and about
1
inch deep at the shoulder seam, allowing
out to nothing as
it
comes down to the bust.
but the shoulder and under arm seams.
to taper
Allow enough to
turn in where the lining comes on to the front facing. all
it
Stitch
Baste the back seam to the back seam of the coat.
Baste up
and
press.
Baste
all
about the armholes and at the shoulder and under arm seams.
Turn
in the
armholes.
neck and baste down.
Turn
in the shoulder
the back shoulder seams.
seams and baste down
Turn
baste flat to the back portion.
Baste the fronts in about the
in
flat to
the under arm seam and
Turn
baste to the back edge of the facing.
in
down
Turn up
the front and all
about the
bottom, keeping the lining away from the edge of the coat about 18 of
an
inch.
Now hem
the shoulder seams, the under
arm
down the front, about the bottom and about the neck. The coat is all finished now but the sleeves. Cut the pattern and the sleeves from the goods just as you did
seams,
.for
the dress sleeve.
Baste up and try on.
Get the exact length
Colt
Showing where
a*J skYtyiTfiTif
 C
a>\vas
is
2"K
$}retchi*f
3oiie, a Xj>
^^*nh
y>iecc
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING and run a thread marking where the
up the
inside
Open Cut a
seam and press open.
spread the sleeves out on the table.
canvas
3^
sleeve
is
to turn.
the other
Stitch
seam and
piece of the tailor's
inches wide and cover one edge
cotton lining material cut on the bias.
189
with a piece of
Baste the piece of can
vas to the sleeve so that the covered edge just follows the line
where the sleeve
is
Baste the canvas to the sleeve
to turn up.
thoroughly and stitch up the outside seam of the sleeve. open.
Turn up the
pattern, stitch
seams together. sleeve about
1
sleeve at the hand.
up and
press.
Turn the
lining
lining
up
at the
hand and hem
inch from the edge of the sleeve.
up over the seam.
by the same
Place inside of the sleeve and the
to the coat without catching the lining. lining
Cut a
Press
Turn
in
Sew
Stitch in
to the
the sleeves
and bring the
and hem down.
.
LESSON XL THE CHILD'S DRAFT
The measures
used are of a child 3 years of age.
Bust measure
9K
Waist measure Armhole measure Front Length measure Back Length measure Under Arm measure Upper Front measure Back Width measure
i.
Draw
2.
Measure from
Mark
line
inches
24
Neck measure
AB
inches
23
inches
13
inches
10
inches
9
inches
4K inches &}i inches 8
inches
length of back.
A
on
line
AB
the Under
Arm
measure.
this point C.
AB above B 34
3.
Continue
4.
At
5.
From
6.
At C square a
7.
Measure from C on
line
Mark
inch.
this point
D D
square a line with line AB.
D
measure on
this line
ij^ inches.
Mark
this
point
E. line
with
line
this line
AB. J^ of Bust measure.
Mark
this
point F.
From C on
8.
Mark
line
CF measure Y2 the Back Width measure.
this point G.
9. At G square a line. 10. Measure on this line from Mark this point H. 11
H.
Place point
Extend curve
G 13
D
on the chart at
}/%
inch beyond H. 191
E
of
Armhole measure.
and draw a curve through
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
192 12.
Continue
13.
At
GH above
line
H ij^ inches.
Mark
this point
I.
I square a line with line GI.
14. From I measure on this line 2 inches. Mark this point J. 15. From G on line CF measure to the left J^ of Armhole measure. Mark this point K. 16. Find a point half way between K and G. Mark this point
L.
At K square a Measure from
17. 18.
with
line
K
on
CF.
line
Mark
this line 2 inches.
this point
M.
G
Place point
19.
draw
line
20.
on the chart at the end
of curve
EH and
touching line GH.
Place point
K
on the chart at
this point
and draw curve
through L. 21.
Place point
K on the chart at M and draw curve through
22.
Place point
F on
23.
Measure the
L. the chart at
M and draw curve through
j
same distance from J on 24. 25.
Measure from
ure, less
what
is
line IJ
with line CF so that
Square a
line
EH and measure the continued. Mark this point N.
length of curve
full
CF on
line
this line the
D
on the chart at
Place point
27.
Measure down from
pass through N.
Upper Front meas
Mark
used in the back neck.
26.
it will
this point O.
and draw curve through
j
Mark
34
this point
At P square a
29.
Measure from P on
Mark
line
line
with
line
34 of Neck measure.
ON.
this line 16 of
Neck measure and add
this point Q.
30.
Place point J on the chart at
31.
Draw
32.
Measure from
Mark
ON
P.
28.
inch.
on
a line from
this point
R.
Q
Q
Q and draw
curve through O.
through F.
on
this line the
Front Length measure.
CteUa* $Â»i\t
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
194 33.
At L square a
line
34.
Measure from
L
Mark
with line CF.
on
this line the
Under
Arm
measure.
this point S.
A and
35.
Connect
36.
Connect S and
37.
Find out how much too large the Waist measure
this case it
38.
of S.
is
a straight
line.
line. is.
In
1% inches.
Measure
Mark
S with a straight
R with
half this distance to left of S
these points
T and
and
half to right
U.
39.
Place point
B
on the chart at
L and draw
curve through
40.
Place point
B
on the chart at
L and draw
curve through
T.
U. In cutting out allow
all
seams.
LESSON XLI
Measures used
â€”
for draft given
Arm Arm
Length measure Length to elbow Armhole measure Hand measure
i.
2.
Draw AB length of Arm. From A measure length of Arm
to
bend
of
8
inches
4
inches
13
inches
6
inches
Elbow. Point C.
7.
AB. At A square a line with At B square a line with line AB. At C square a line with line AB. Measure from B on line, Y2 inch. Mark this point D. Measure from C, 34 inch. Mark this point E.
8.
Measure
9.
Place point
3. 4. 5.
6.
10.
line
Connect
n. Measure 12.
Measure
measure.
Mark
to the left of A, Y2 inch.
E
D
E
on the chart at
and
D
and draw curve
with a straight
to the right of
D,
1
this point
inch.
Mark
G.
H.
Mark this point I. Mark this point
Measure
14.
Extend
15.
Measure
16.
Measure from A, the Armhole measure.
to the right of
AB
this point
more than the Hand
13.
line
to F.
line.
to the right of G, 2 inches
Mark
this point F.
H,
1
inch.
above A, ij^ inches.
j
to the right of J,
3^2
inch.
Mark
this point
Mark
K.
this
point L. 17.
Measure
to the left of L, 4 inches.
18.
Measure
to the left of L,
i% inches.
*95
Mark this point M. Mark this point N.
ChiJJs'
Sleeve
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
At
19.
meet
it.
20.
At
197
M square a line with line AL and extend line JK to Point 0.
K
0K and mark where
square a line with line
it
touches line AL, P. 21.
Place point
D
L and draw
on the chart at
curve to
I.
Place point J on the chart at F and draw curve through K. 23. Place point F on the chart at O and draw curve to N. 22.
F on
N and
24.
Place point
25. "
Find a point half way between
26.
With
the chart at
continue curve to L.
P and M. Mark
this point
Q
Q
as a center
and a radius QK draw curve from ?
K
to 0. 27.
Find a point half way between
28..
Square a
D
and
I.
Mark
this point
R.
from R, Yz 29.
D
and 30.
line at
inch.
Place point
R with line DI
Mark
D
and measure on
this line
this point S.
on the chart at
S,
and draw curves through
I.
Gather the sleeve from
Also from
K
to 0.
1
inch from
D
to 1 inch
from
I.
LESSON XLII child's coat sleeve
Measures used Arm Length Arm Length
for draft given
â€”
measure
8
inches
to elbow
4
inches
13
inches
Hand measure
6
inches
Elbow measure
8
inches
Armhole measure
i.
Draw AB
2.
Measure from
Mark
Elbow. 3.
length of Arm.
A
on
line
AB length
of
Arm
to
bend of
this point C.
Square a
with
line
4.
Measure from
5.
Place point
D
line
C on
AB, at C.
this line
Y inch.
on the chart at
D
Mark
this point
and draw curves
to
D.
A
and B. 6.
Square a
7.
Measure from
this point 8.
line at
B
with line AB.
B on
this line
Yi the
Hand
measure.
Mark
this point I.
Mark
H.
Measure
to the right of
H YL inch.
9. At I square a line with line BI. 10. Measure from I on this line Y2 inch. Mark n. Connect J and B with a straight line.
this point J.
13.
Measure from J on this line Y2 inch. Mark this point K. Measure from D Yl of Elbow measure. Mark this point
14.
Measure
12.
E.
points
F and
to the left
and right
of
E
Y inch.
Mark
these
G.
15. Place point
F on
the chart at
K. 199
F and draw
curve through
ChilJs' Sleeve.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 1 6.
Place point
17.
Measure
F on
Mark
L and B
Connect
19.
At
20.
Measure from A on Measure to the Continue
23.
At At
24.
25.
where
it
N
meets
M3
inches. inch.
1
Mark this point N. Mark this point 0,
Place point
M
with
D
N
line
F
and mark point P,
AM
and mark point Q,
with a straight
on the chart at on
F on F on
line
as a center
line.
G and
draw curve
0Q /l inch. Mark x
R
the chart at
P and draw
and
all
and draw curve
R.
to A.
curve to S,
Continue curve to A.
NR
as a radius
RQ. In cutting pattern allow
to Q.
this point
the chart at
inch to the right of A.
Use
AM
from 0.
Measure from
29. Place point
31.
left of
line at
line
Connect P and
is 1
Mark
from 0.
line
Place point
30.
it
line.
Y% of Armhole measure.
this line
square a line with line
meets
27.
which
with a straight
AB above A,
line
26.
28.
make
square a line with line B0.
Square a it
to
square a line with line AB.
22.
where
FK
M.
this point 21.
to line
this point L.
18.
A
and draw curve through
GJ and add enough
line
the same length.
G
the chart at
201
seams.
and draw curve
LESSON XLIII child's rompers
The rompers
given are for a child of 3 years. for the child's waist.
Use the same draft as
2.
Add Add
line
WV.
1.
inch
1
down
the back line, STU.
inches to the bottom of the back waist portion,
2
3.
Add
4.
Leave out
5.
For the back neck, measure from
1
inch to the front line XYZ. lines
To draft the down below S, LS 6.
7.
Measure
LU and LT
of the waist draft. S, 2 inches.
trousers part of the rompers
â€” Continue
line
5 inches.
to the right of the
end of
this line J/ÂŁ inch.
Mark
this point a. 8.
Connect aS with a straight
9.
Continue
line
XYZ below
line.
Z,
12}^ inches.
Mark
this
point b. 10.
Mark
At b square a line with line Zb and draw 22^ inches long. this point c.
Mark this point d. Mark this point
11.
Measure from b on
12.
Measure from b on
13.
Place point J on the chart at e and draw curve through
14.
At c square a line with line ce. Measure from c on this line, 1
line bZ, 3 inches. line bc, 3 inches.
e.
d.
inch. Mark this point f. Draw a line from e through f and continue 5 inches beyond Mark this point g. 17. Measure from U on line UT ij^ inches. Mark this point 15.
16. f.
203
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
D
205
on the chart at S and draw curve through
18.
Place point
19.
Continue curve
1
20.
Connect g and
with a straight
21.
Measure from g on line gi 5 inches. Mark this point j. Place point J on the chart at f and draw curve through
h.
22.
i
inch beyond
J
In cutting pattern allow
all
seams.
i.
line.
LESSON XLIV HOW Trace
on
off
TO CUT AND FINISH THE ROMPERS another piece of paper the front
down
allowing seams everywhere except
Trace
off
portion,
the front line XYZd.
the back, allowing seams everywhere except
down
the back line SUV, where ij£ inches should be allowed.
Cut on
line Sa.
The amount wide,
2 18
of
This
the pattern for the
is
Rompers.
— 27 inches
goods required for the Rompers
yards; 36 inches wide, \Yi yards; 44 inches wide, ij^
yards.
To
cut from the goods
— Lay
line
XYZ on a
fold of the
goods lengthwise and cut the front portion.
Trace
before you raise the pattern from the goods.
Lay
the double goods, having line
WV
on the straight
all
seams
the back on of the
goods
crosswise.
Sew Sew
line de to line
fj.
seam
the shoulder
of each
back
to the shoulder
seam of
each front.
Sew
line
LS of each back
Face each
to line
LS
of the fronts.
with a continuous facing.
side, line Sa,
facing on the back under for a
hem and
Turn the
leave the front project
ing for an under lap.
Sew
line
Gather
ij
of
one side to
line is
the back, and face
Turn
ij
of the other.
of each side so that it fits it
in the edges
on to
line
SU
of
with a straight facing about 1 J^ inches wide.
down
the back
1
inch after having turned in
the raw edge and stitch. Finish the neck square or round, with either a bias band of the
goods put on the right side or with embroidery insertion.
Sew buttons and work buttonholes down 207
the back.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
Work
buttonholes along line
Si
209
and place buttons along
SU.
Put a
half inch
hem
in the
bottom
of each leg
in the hems, just the size of the child's leg,
For the sleeve use the Child's Full Sleeve Draft.
hand with a
Make back
straight
band
and run
but not
elastic
tight.
Finish at the
or insertion.
a belt ij^ inches wide and fasten along the top of the
of the trousers part
and bring it around
in front
and button.
TO DRAFT THE DIFFERENT SIZES
Take the measure of the child for the waist part and draft the same as the Child's Waist Draft. For the leg part, for each size larger
add
1
inch to the length of the leg from waist line
down.
Add Yz
inch to the length of line Zd and
Ij.
LESSON XLV BOY'S RUSSIAN BLOUSE SUIT
To
take the measures for Blouse
Bust measure plus
â€”
2 inches.
Neck measure. Waist measure plus 2 inches. Armhole measure. Front Length to waist line. Back Length to waist line. Upper Front measure. Front Length from neck to knee less 2 inches. Back Length from neck to knee less 2 inches. Back Width measure. Plus 1 inch.
Measures used
for this draft
Bust
26
Neck
inches
q}ÂŁ inches
Waist
25
inches
Armhole
13
inches
Front to waist
10
inches
Back to waist Upper Front Back Width
9
inches
%]4 inches 9
Front Length to knee
Back Length
to knee
inches
20
inches
19
inches
THE BLOUSE i. 2.
Draw line AB length of back to waist line. From A measure the Under Arm measure.
Mark
this
point C. 3.
Continue
4.
Square
line
line at
AB above B,
D
with
line
JH>
AD.
211
inch.
Mark
this point
D.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
212
5.
D
Measure from
on
this line
i^
inches.
Mark
this point
E. 6. 7.
Mark
Measure from C 3^ of Bust measure. Mark this point F. Measure from C on line CF J^ the Back Width measure. ;
this point G.
At G square a line with line CF. 9. From G measure on this line 13 Mark this point H. 8.
10.
D
Place point
on the chart at
H, continue Y2 mcn beyond H. 11. Continue line GH above
H
E
the Armhole measure.
and draw curve through
ij^ inches.
Mark
this point
I.
12.
At
13.
From From
14.
Mark 15.
with
I square a line I
on
G
on
this point
line
line GI.
measure
this line
Mark
2 inches.
this point J.
CF measure 34 the Armhole measure.
K.
Find a point half way between
G
and K.
Mark
this
point L. 16.
17.
K square a line with line CF. Measure from K on this line 2 inches. At
Mark
this point
M. 18.
Place point
G
on the chart at the end of curve
draw curve touching 19.
K
Place point
touches line
line
EH and
GH.
on the chart at the point where curve
GH and draw
20.
Place point
G
21.
Place point
F on
22.
Find the
at
curve through L.
M and draw curve through L. the chart at M and draw curve through
j
distance from J on line IJ 23.
Square a
24.
Measure on
EH and continued. Mark
length of curve
full
line
with
line
CF
so that
measure
this
this point
it will
same
N.
pass through
N. measure O.
less
what
this is
line
from
line
CF the Upper Front
used in the back neck.
Mark
this
point
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
D
and draw curve through
on the chart at
25.
Place point
26.
Measure down from
213
j
J^ of Neck measure.
Mark
this
point P. 27.
28.
Add
At P square a line with line OP. Measure from P on this line 16
x
/i inch.
29.
Mark
of the
Neck measure.
this point Q.
Q
and draw curve through
this line the
Front Length measure to
Place point J on the chart at
O. 30.
Draw
31.
Measure from
waist 32. 33.
Mark 34.
Mark 35.
knee. 36.
knee.
Mark
line.
this
point
through F.
on
this point
R.
Measure
S.
inch to the right and
1
these points
T
Mark
this point
Measure from
Mark
Draw The The
inch to the
left of S.
Q
of
back
to 2 inches
above
W. the
full
length of front to
2
inches above
this point V.
Connect
to line from
1
and U.
Measure down from B the length
38.
40.
Q
At L square a line with line CF. Measure from L on this line the Under Arm measure.
37.
39.
Q
from
line
V
and
W with a straight
straight line from
L
line.
through
T
and
U and
continue
V to W. line
line
L through U belongs to the back. from L through T belongs to the front.
from
THE KNICKERBOCKERS
The Knickerbockers given Front of knickerbockers 1.
2.
3.
4.
are for a
2 yearold child.
â€”
Draw line AB 18^ inches long. At B square a line with line AB. Measure on this line from B 8 inches. Mark At C square a line with line BC.
this point C.
#0}
S'
^USSUH
f>lblA.%e
w
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 5.
Measure on
Mark
this line 16 inches.
6.
Square a
7.
Measure from
215
this point
D.
D with line DC and draw out to line AB. D on this line % of an inch. Mark this
line at
point E. 8.
D
Measure down from
on
CD
line
Mark
7 inches.
this
point F. 9.
10.
Place point
C on
Measure from
the chart at
AB on
line
F and draw from
line
D
curve to E.
1 Y2
inches.
Mark
this point G.
n. At 12.
G
square a line with line DG.
Measure from
G
on
% of an inch.
this line
Mark
this
point H.
B on
13.
Place point
14.
Measure from
15.
Square a
16.
Measure from
17.
Connect J and
the chart at
H and
draw curve through
E.
B
on
line
AB
8 inches.
Mark
this point
Mark
this point
I.
with line AB.
line at I
I
on
this line
iJ4 inches.
j
G
with a straight
Measure from J on point K. 18.
19.
Place point
line
%
line.
of
an
inch.
Mark
this
K on the chart at K and draw curve through I.
â€”
Back of knickerbockers 1. At B square a line with 2.
JG
Measure from B on
line
this line
AB.
n^ inches.
Mark
this point
L. 3. 4.
At L square a line with line BL. At A square a line with line AB.
this line 5.
meets
From
line
Mark
the point where
from L, M.
A on line AM
measure 5)^ inches.
Mark
this point
N. 6.
Find a point half way between
7.
Connect
B and
0.
and
N with a straight line.
I.
Mark
this point
$ o
y
s
'
Ki\
i c
/r
e
yÂť
ÂŁoc
7r
e
y> s.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 8.
K
Place point
9.
on the chart at I and hold chart so that J
Draw
touches line ON.
217
M
Measure from
curve.
Mark
on
ML 2^
line
this point P.
Mark
inches.
this
point Q. 10.
B
Mark
this point
way between Q and L. Mark
this point
At S square a line with line QL. Measure from S on this line 2^ inches. Mark
this point
Measure from
on
line
BL 9
inches.
R.
n. Find a point
half
S.
12. 13.
T.
C on the chart at R and draw curve to T. C on the chart at T and draw curve to Q. Mark this line NQ beyond Q iJ4 inches.
14.
Place point
15.
Place point
16.
Continue
point U. 17.
Measure down from
Q on curve QT
6 inches.
Mark
this
Mark
this
point V. 18.
point
Measure straight out from
V
i}i inches.
W.
W and U with a straight
19.
Connect
20.
Measure from
21.
Square a
Q
on curve
QN
line.
2 inches.
Mark this point
X. line at
X and draw 3^ inches long.
Mark
this
point Y. 22. 23. 24.
Connect
Y
and
Measure from
X towards Q Y2 mcn
Connect Z and
For every
X with a straight line. Y
size larger,
with a straight
add
1
Mark

this point Z.
line.
inch on lines BC, BL,
AM,
DG.
Add 1 Make
inch on lines BA,
LM, CD.
the distance from
B
to I Y2 inch
more
for each size.
LESSON XLVI HOW
TO MAKE A BOY'S RUSSIAN BLOUSE, AND KNICKERBOCKERS
We
you how
will teach
make the perfectly plain Russian down the front. This same blouse
to
Blouse, buttoned straight
may have
plaits
down
you learn
designs for
to
make
the plain garment
more elaborate
the blouse needs
be able to follow
will
line
away
BW on
the length
any
fitting there will
be goods enough to do
Allow seams everywhere.
it.
Cut two for
hem.
Allow two inches on the bottom
pieces like the front.
Sew in
a French seam the under arm seams and shoul
der seams, or the seams
may
be stitched and
and stitched again on the outside. i
you
Lay
blouses.
cut
sailor collar.
Allow a large seam on the shoulder so
wise fold of the goods. if
may be
it
and be finished with a large
in front at the neck If
the front and back and
all
turned one
Turn each
way
front in about
inch for a hem, and after turning in the raw edge stitch as near
Turn
the edge as possible.
the
bottom up two
turning in the raw edge stitch the
Lap
hem
inches,
and
after
in.
the right front over on the left
i
inch.
Sew buttons on
the righthand side and work buttonholes on the lefthand side.
Finish the neck with a round turnover collar.
collar as directed for
draft for the sleeves. into the armhole sleeve
grown person.)
and lay a small box
Place
is
in, plait
them
Begin at the middle of the
Lay
plait.
(Cut the
child's full sleeve
Instead of gathering them
and at the hand.
side of this until the sleeve
hand.
Use the
small side plaits on either
the right size for the armhole
and
Face the sleeve at the hand. little
to hold a belt
To make
straps
made
made
of the
of the goods
on the under arm seams,
goods or of leather.
the knickerbockers
â€” Cut
219
out two pieces for the
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
220
straight of the
BI of the
line
Lay line AB each time on the goods lengthwise. Sew line BI of the front to back. Sew line FC of the front to line VR of
and two
fronts,
the back.
for the backs.
This forms the two separate
together at point
Sew IN
line
KH
of
one front to
one back to
of
legs.
Pin the two Legs
I.
line
IN
KH
line
it will
Turn
form a hem and under
on the
front, or for
very
VQUW
in lap
half
K where the
way, so that
Fasten a pocket at
lap.
little
line
Face the seam on
each side of the front and put an under lap from I to
seam was not sewed.
Sew
of the other.
of the other.
children the pocket
EF
line
may
be
left
out.
Sew
in the dart
Put a
XYZ.
bias facing
all
about the top
of the back, also the front, just the size of 3^ the waist plus 2
band must lap over Sew a button at E on each
inches for both the front and back, for the 1
inch at each side where
it
fastens.
side,
and work a buttonhole at
holes
all
a
hem in the bottom
or gather the leg
2
on each
side.
Work
button
Put
of each leg
If this is
elastic in,
done, seam BI should be
or 2Y2 inches from the
For a boy
Y2 i ncn wide and run
and put on a straight band, having a buckle
sewed on the end. about
Q
along the waist line to button on to the under waist.
bottom and both
left
open
sides faced.
of 6 years or over the knickerbockers should fasten
in the front instead of at the sides.
In this case, where the
pockets are put in at the sides, sew one side of the pocket to the front and the other to the back piece, having the seams on
the inside.
Turn each seam back and
stitch again
on the right
side.
Make
the facing about the top
front center seam.
all
in one piece, opening at the
In cutting the pattern leave a projecting
piece on the fronts at line
HK
about
1%
On
inches wide.
the
right side turn this piece back to form a hem, after having turned in
the
raw
edge.
wide and fold
it
Take a
straight piece of goods 3
lengthwise in the center.
edges in and place the piece just where the
inches
Turn the two raw
hem on
the right
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
222
front will be
the
hem between
outside.
This forms a
stitched.
under the hem.
Work
fly for
buttonholes in this
the buttonholes.
fly
the buttonholes
and catch
Do not catch
it
to
through to the
Line with a straight piece of the goods the projecting
piece on the left front
and allow
holes of the right side.
it
to project
under the button
Place buttons on this piece to correspond
with the buttonholes.
Put a pocket on each the top,
Make
back about 2Y2 inches from and about half way between the side and back seams. side of the
a pointed flap over each of these pockets, and put a button
on the pocket and work a buttonhole
in the corner of the flap.
LESSON XLVn child's pa jama suit
To make the coat, draft the same as the child's waist draft. Add to the back of the neck 34 mcn and 3^ inch at the waist line in the back. Draw the middle back line through these two points. Leave out lines LT and LU. Add 2 inches to the front at the middle line for lap, point W. Mark this point X. Place Measure down from 2 inches. point F on the chart at X and allow curve FJ to touch curve >
W
OQ.
Add 4
inches to the bottom of the draft below waist
the goods, about the neck and
down
and cover with a fancy braid or
hem
1
In of
the front, on the right side,
band
of the goods.
Allow a
Y2 inches wide about the bottom. Lap the front so that Fasten of one side comes on line QR of the other.
QR down the line
bias
line.
Turn the edge
cutting out pattern allow seams everywhere.
front with buttons, or with fancy frog ornaments.
The pajama part
of the suit is drafted just like the knicker
FC are extended below make them come to the ankles. This amount depends on the size of the child. The dart is left out in the back, and gathered into the waist band. The front should be sewed to a waist made like the child's draft, but very loose about the
bockers, but the lines TR, OB, and
CBR enough
to
waist and across the shoulders.
and buttoned
The left
side
to the waist.
The back
is
fastened to a
For large boys the waist
is
band
not used.
seams are sewed up to the band and the pajamas are
open in
front.
tied in front.
A tape is fastened to
each end of the band and
Place buttons and buttonholes
223
down
the front.
\ Soys'
:
LESSON XL VIII drawers
child's
The
draft given
For every year }/i
is
for a child of 5 years.
in size
add \i inch
inch to back waist measure,
1
to front waist
measure and
inch to length of
leg,
and J^
inch to width of leg on front and back.
The normal waist measures
'
for children are as follows
1
year old
20^
inches
2
years old
21
inches
3 years old 4 years old
21^2 inches 22
inches
5 years old 6 years old
22%
inches
2$
inches
7 years old
23
inches
8 years old
23K 23^
inches
24
inches
9 years old 10 years old
i.
Draw
line
inches
AB.
2.
Find center between
3.
At C square a
A and B. Mark
this point C.
5.
Mark this point CD. From C on line CD measure 1 inch. Mark this point E. From C on line CA measure 9 inches. Mark this point
6.
From E on
4.
line
with line AB.
F. line
CD measure 15^
inches.
Mark
this
point G.
At G square a line with line CD. Mark this point H. 8. Measure to the left of G %% inches. square line line H a with GH. At 9. Mark this point 10. Measure from H on this line 3 inches. 7.
L 225
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
226
GH
Mark
ii.
Continue
12.
At J square a line with line GJ. Measure on this line from J 63^ inches.
13.
line
4 inches.
this point J.
Mark
this
point
K.
K and I with a straight line.
14.
Connect
15.
Place point
F
on the chart at
I
and draw curve through
K.
F on
chart at I and draw through curve H.
16.
Place point
17.
Connect
18.
Find a point half way between F and K.
K
and F with a straight
line.
Mark
this
point
L. 19.
point
On M.
this line
% of an inch
measure
from L.
Mark
this
20.
Place point
D
on the chart at
M and draw curve through
21.
Place point
D
on the chart at
M and draw curve through
K. F.
This finishes the front of the drawers. 22.
Measure from C on
line
CB
7^ inches. Mark
this
point
N. 23. 24.
At N square a line with line CB. Measure from N on this line 1^2
inches.
Mark
this
point O.
G measure
25.
From
26.
At P square a
27.
From P on
28.
Continue
29.
At
to the right
&% inches. Mark this point
P. line
with
this line
line
GP.
measure 3 inches.
Mark
this
point
Q
30.
point
S.
R
From
line
GP 4
inches.
Mark
this
point R.
square a line with line GR.
R
measure on
this line
6}4 inches.
Mark
this
S.
31.
Connect S and
32.
Place point
Q
F on
with a straight the chart at
Q
line.
and draw curve through
s
Child
x
3)yÂąwB
r
3
r
s.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
228
33.
Place point
F on
the chart at
Q
and draw curve through
P. 34.
Connect S and
35.
Find a point half way between S and 0.
36.
At
37.
Measure from
38.
Place point
D
Place point
C on
with a straight
line.
Mark
this
point
T.
T
square a line with S0.
T on
Y2 inch. Mark this point U. on the chart at S and draw curve through this line
U. 39.
the chart at
U and draw
0.
This finishes the draft of the drawers. In cutting patterns allow seams everywhere.
curve through
LESSON XLIX HOW For
a
TO MAKE LITTLE GIRLS dress the draft given
little girl's
CLOTHING
'
may be used in a variety
of ways.
For the dress with the the draft just as
gathered on at the waist
skirt
Cut a pattern by
it is.
line,
use
tracing off on another
and about ij^ inches buttons and buttonholes. Put
piece of paper, allowing seams everywhere,
down all
the back on each side for
tucks in the goods before laying on the pattern.
like insertion of lace or
garment put
is cut,
After the waist to
make
it
is
to
is
come
cut out, cut
off
just
where they are wanted.
lengths enough for the skirt
the desired fullness about the bottom.
depend on the which
Any trimming;
be laid on after the
but this should be planned for before tucks are
that the tucks will
in, so
may
embroidery
size
and age
From
of the child.)
be used for the front of the
skirt,
(This will the breadth
gore off about three
inches, slanting out to the selvage.
For the other breadths use
the goods straight on both edges.
Allow a hem two or three
Gather
inches wide.
placing
more
this skirt to the waist at the waist line,
back than in
fullness in the
front.
may be used. Mother Hubbard,
A
belt of in
sertion of lace or embroidery If the dress is to
be
use just the neck and
shoulder part of the draft for a yoke and gather the skirt on to the yoke.
Use the straight breadths, putting more
the back than
in front.
If
you wish
to
make
fullness in
a onepiece dress
with box plaits down the front and back, trace the front and
back on another piece from
R
Extend
of paper.
the length the skirt should be.
LT down
the
same length but
the skirt the desired fullness.
slant
A 229
line
QR
down LU and enough to make
Extend
them out
straight
lines
dress of this kind should not
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING have a very
Extend
full skirt.
Cut the pattern
AB down the same distance. seams. Lay box plaits in the come in the middle front, and
line
out, allowing
goods lengthwise so that one
all
will
one about the middle of the shoulder
down
back, one should be
to
each plait at the waist
and run a
line
Child's Blouse Waist.
back
slant the middle
the front line out
from
L
L
—
for the
T
through
Little Girl's
this
same
1
belt through.
for the
Clothing.
may
hand
Draw
line.
under arm of the
—
Slant
line.
straight line
front.
Add 2^
Put a narrow hem
For the
in the
a
little girl's
under waist
Face the bottom with a bias
be used.
Make
inch wide.
the right
Either a
the child's blouse waist,
armholes with a bias
the
hem down
each side of the back and
work buttonholes and sew on buttons.
on
plaits should
back under arm and draw a straight
facing about 1^2 inches wide and facing
These
Cut an opening under
elastic in.
Under
draft
In the
side.
inch at the waist
1
inches to the bottom of the waist.
bottom aud run an
each
be used.
To make out
line
may
inch at the waist
1
U
through
from
line.
each other at the shoulder.
leather belt or one of the goods
line
line at
the middle of the back and one each
about the middle of the shoulder
side
match on
231
Place the buttonholes
Sew buttons about the bottom
side.
to but
ton the waist on. Little Girl's Skirt.
as
full as
—
Make
the skirt straight, and not quite
Place a
the dress skirt.
hem
in the
bottom about ij^
inches wide and a straight band at the waist line about ij^ inches wide.
Leave the
back and hem the
left side
one at the bottom and
Work is
of the garments
hem
7 or 8
inches
down
the
% inch wide and the right
the wide
hem
stitch across the
over on the narrow
bottom
to
keep
it
from
buttonholes in the waist band to match
the buttons on the waist. waist, but this
open about
with a
Lap
side with a narrow hem.
tearing down.
skirt
If desired the skirt
may be sewed to the
not desirable, as one often wishes to change one
and not the
Child's Drawers.
—
other.
Cut two
pieces like the draft.
Sew curve
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
233.
KIH to curve SQP. Sew line FMK of one piece to the same line of the other. Slash both pieces down from E about 6 Face
inches.
this slash
Leave the
with a continuous facing.
front side out for an under lap and turn the other back.
the waist line of the back to a straight band
2
inches longer than
Y2 the waist measure and the back to a straight length. ished.
back and front
in the middle at the
â€”
Child's Nightgown. perfectly plain
gown
Draw
and LT.
Use the
to
Work
lines slanting
out from
on a
very narrow
L
to
make
LU
the desired
size of the child.
fold of the goods lengthwise.
line.
hem and
Hem
the left side of the opening with
the right side with an inch wide hem.
the right side over on the
left
and
stitch across the
the neck with a bias facing and sew a sleeves at the
Put a hem be
For a
leaving out lines
front open on the center front line to about 4 or 5 inches
below the waist
may
it is,
about the bottom, according to the front
buttonholes
button on the waist.
child's waist draft.
use the draft as
Cut both the back and
Cut the
band the same
This band should be about ij^ inches wide when finSew a button to each end of the front band and work a
buttonhole in each end of the back band.
fullness
Gather
hand the same way.
in the
made
full
little
Use the
it.
full
Face
Trim the
sleeve draft.
bottom about ij^ inches wide.
The gown
For
this allow 2
about the neck
if
desired.
inches on the back and 3 on the front.
and then
bottom.
edge to
a
Lay
face as in the plain gown.
Gather about the neck
9J
to
o
LESSON L infant's first outfit
The Pinning
â€”
Blanket.
AB
i.
Draw
2.
At A, square a
3.
Draw
4.
Measure up from
5.
Place point
6.
At B square a
7.
Measure from B on
8.
Connect
9.
Measure from
D.
line
For the
with line AB.
line
Mark
5 inches long.
D
skirt,
25 inches long.
C
x
/i inch.
this point C.
Mark
on the chart at
this point
A and
D.
draw curve through

with line AB.
line
this line 14 inches.
Mark
this point
E.
Mark
B.
D
and
E
with a straight
D
line.
DE the same distance as A to Connect B and F with a slightly curved
on
this point F.
line
line.
Draw
10.
line
GH
25 inches long.
n. At G square a line with line GH. Mark this point 12. Measure from G 7J/2 inches. inches. Mark 13. Measure up from I ij^
I.
this
point
GH and draw 16^
inches
j14.
H
Mark
long. 15. 16.
H.
At
square a line with line this point
K.
Connect J and K with a straight line. Measure down from J the same distance as from
Mark
G
to
this point L.
L and
17.
Connect
18.
Place point
D
H with a curved line. on the chart at
J. 235
G
and draw curve to
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
236
THE WAIST
19. 20.
Mark 21. 22.
Draw At
line
MN
inches long.
5
M square a line with line MN and draw 13 inches
long..
this point O.
Measure up from O, Y2 inch. Mark this point P. Measure from on line MO, 7^ inches. Mark
M
this
point Q. 23.
Place point
24.
At
C on
the chart at
P and draw
curve through
Q
Mark
N square a line with line MN and draw 13 inches long.
this point
R.
26.
Measure down from R, Y2 inch. Mark this point Measure from N, 3 inches. Mark this point T.
27.
Place point
28.
Measure
25.
D
S.
on the chart at S and draw curve through
T. to the left of Q, 3 inches.
Mark
point
this
U. 29.
Mark
At
Q
square a line with line
OQ and draw
5 inches long.
this point V.
30.
Place point
31.
Continue
F
U
on the chart at
and draw curve
to
V. line
QV above
V
1^2 inches.
Mark
this point
W. 32.
Mark
At
W square a
this point
line
with
line
QW. Draw 1 J^ inches
long.
X.
33.
Measure
34.
Place point
to the left of U, 2 inches.
Mark
this point
Y.
F on
the chart at
Y
and draw curve through
X. 35.
Find a point half way between
U
and Q.
Mark
this
point Z. 36.
With Z
with a curve.
as a center
and ZU as a radius connect
U
and
Q
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
The pinning blanket Cut two
is
made
of white flannel.
and two
pieces for the fronts
the two backs
Join
at line JL.
237
line
for the backs.
GH
to line
DF.
Join
These
seams should be pressed open and catstitched on the right side with white
silk.
Put a hem ij^ inches wide down the fronts and about the
hem
and
on the right side
bottom.
Baste the
with
catching through so as to fasten the
silk,
waist with line
the waist
is
MN
made
in
on a
catstitch
it
fold of the goods.
hem
in.
Cut the
Cut two
pieces, as
Stitch the two pieces together all
double.
about the top and ends. Turn and baste the edges together so as to
make a
nice
smooth edge.
two lower edges.
in the
Stitch again all around,
and turn
Slip the top edge of the skirt part in
between these edges, having point J come at N. Stitch across on the. machine on the right side. Work a buttonhole in the end of the shoulder strap,
The waist portion blanket.
M0
D
is
made almost
NR
line
Measure out
on the chart at
N
is
that
Make
a curve.
it will
Make
be made of
used for the bottom and line
skirt
This
This part was used in the
There must be a seam
in this waist
fine muslin.
The
Put a hem
down
Place
the waist just as you did the other except
hreadth 26 inches long.
open the
N ^ inch.
the skirt portion straight of the goods,
about the bottom.
pinning
and draw curve through M.
for the pinning blanket.
it is
draft.
like the waist of the
to the left of
the front line of the skirt waist.
back as
is
In this waist
for the top.
point
and place buttons as indicated on
skirt should
in the
making each
measure
1%
yards
bottom i}4 inches wide, and
the back 4 inches.
Sew
to the waist as in
the other case, placing the gathers between the two parts of the waist.
down
Put a hem
% of an inch down both sides of the back, and
the skirt opening.
other garments.
Lap
at the
bottom as directed
for
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
THE INFANT
Back
of
gown
OR NIGHTGOWN
S SLIP
—
1.
Draw
2.
At A, square a
3.
From
4.
Measure up from
5.
Measure
line
239
AB 36
inches long.
with
line
A measure
on
line
this line
AB.
4% inches. Mark
this point
C.
A
Jk£
to the right of
Mark
inch.
this point
7.
At E, square a line with line AC. Measure from E on this line inch.
8.
Place point
9.
Connect F and C with a straight
6.
10.
%
K on the chart at F,
Measure down from
D.
A 1% inches. Mark this point E.
A
on
line
Mark
this point F.
and draw curve
to D.
line.
AB
Mark
3 inches.
this
point G.
G square
11.
At
12.
Measure from
13.
Measure
a line with line AB.
G on
to the left of
H % inch.
Place point J on the chart at Continue curve to H. 14.
15.
Square a
16.
Measure from B on
17.
Connect
18.
Measure from
line at B,
Mark this point H. Mark this point I.
this line 6 inches.
with
C and draw
curve to
I.
AB.
line
this line 17 inches.
Mark
this point
H and J with a straight line. H on line HJ 32 inches.
Mark
this point
Mark
this point
j
K. 19.
Connect
B and
Front of gown
K with a slight curve.
—
1.
Draw
2.
At
3.
Measure from
A
4.
At C square a
line
A
line
AB 36
inches long.
square a line with line AB.
on
this line
&/i inches.
C.
with line AC.
p
Ih}*hf s
Si
i
or Niqhhfovrr*.
.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 5.
Measure from C on
6.
Measure
this line, 3^2 inch.
to the right of C, 3 inches.
7.
At E
8.
Measure from
9.
Connect
10.
Measure
Mark Mark
241
this
point D.
this point
E.
square a line with line AC.
E
on
this line,
1%
inches.
Mark
this point
F.
F and
D
with a straight
to the right of
D,
1
line.
inch.
Mark
K on the chart at G and draw
11
Place point
12.
Measure down from
this point
G.
curve through
F.
A on line AB, 2^ inches. Mark this
point H.
H square a line with line AB. H on this line, j% inches.
13.
At
14.
Measure from
15.
Measure
Mark
this point
I.
to the right of
I,
ij^ inches.
Mark
this
point
j
D
and draw curve to J. Place point J on the chart at on the chart at J and draw curve to I. 17. Place point 18. At B square a line with line AB. 16.
K
19.
Measure from B on
this line, 21 inches.
Mark
this
point
K.
K and
20.
Connect
21.
Measure from
22.
Connect
L and
Infant's sleeve 1.
2.
3.
I
I I
with a straight
on
line.
this line, 32 inches.
Point L.
with a slight curve.
â€”
Draw line AB 5^ inches long. At B square a line with line AB. Measure from B on this line 10 inches.
Mark
this point
C.
5.
Measure from B Yl inch. Mark this point D. Place point D on the chart at D and draw curve through
6.
Find a point half way between
4.
A.
E.
D
and C.
Mark
this point
I"n}ahis
Si ee
ve.
5
.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING 7.
Square a
8.
From E on
9.
Place point
line at
E
with
line
DC.
Y inch.
measure
this line,
24
Mark
this point F.
D on the chart at F and draw curve through D. D on the chart at F and draw curve through
10.
Place point
11.
At
12.
Measure from
13.
At
14.
Measure from
C.
A
square a line with line AB.
A on this line io^ inches. Mark this point
G.
G
square a line with line AG.
15
Place point
16.
Measure
G on
this line
this point
H.
D on the chart at C and draw curve through H.
to the left of
G3
inches.
17.
At
18.
Measure from
19.
Place point
20.
Find a point half way between
21.
At
22.
Measure on
I,
Mark
Y2 inch.
Mark
this point
I.
square a line with line AG. I
on
F on
this line,
inch.
1
the chart at
Point
J.
H and draw curve
through.
j
A and I. Mark
this point
K.
K square a line with line AG. this line from K 3 inches.
Mark
this point
L. 23.
24.
N on the chart at L and draw curve through A. Place point N on the chart at L and draw curve through J. Place point
HOW
TO MAKE THE SLIP OR NIGHTGOWN
Cut the middle back and middle front fold of the goods.
French seam.
Sew up
Put a hem
the under
lines
on the lengthwise
arm seams
in the bottom,
1
in a
very narrow
inch wide for the
Sew the shoulders in a narrow French seam. Slash the front down 14 inches and hem as in the child's gown. Turn the neck down a small seam and cover with finishing braid. Sew to the edge of this a narrow lace edge. Gather the sleeves at the hand and finish
nightgown, and run a tape in for a draw string.
with the finishing braid and edge.
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
244
For the
slip
put a three inch
Sew
use the draw string.
in
hem
bottom, and do not
in the
the sleeve
and the garment
is
finished.
Trace
Add
slip.
back it
off
a yoke of any desired shape, using the draft for the
3 inches to the center front
Make wide hem
for gathers.
may have
a
The
on the bottom. in fullness.
and
The
the dress in the
ruffle
dress
and
when
3 inches to the center
finished 36 inches long;
bottom or a
ruffle 3
inches wide
should be ij^ the width of the skirt
may be as fancy as you wish, using tucks Do not use ruffles about the neck or
lace or embroidery.
sleeves.
The
skirt of the dress should
yards about the bottom.
measure about
Use the sleeve draft given.
2
38
LESSON LI HOW There
TO MAKE USE OF YOUR KNOWLEDGE
are three
ways
in
which you can turn your knowledge
Draft patterns for others, go out by the day to sew,
into money.
or open an establishment of your own.
can easily combine the second with
To open an rooms
certain
rooms
in
your own home
for
latter
is
best.
latter
you
may
set aside
your work, or you
may open
establishment of your own, you
in
some convenient place
one way the
you do the
If
it.
down town
in the
You can
The
your work when working hours are over.
In
district.
get completely
away from
expense, however,
is greater.
A waitingroom,
For your work you should have three rooms.
The first should be small but The second may be small, but
a fittingroom, and a workroom. comfortable, and in good taste.
should have a good light and,
room should be kept
this
have
room
plan
Keep
a closet
work all
is
the
all
off of this
This
little
chalk, etc.
will
room
to
warm and large. You should
for heating flatirons.
muslin on the wall in this
be found better than to fold
hang your
or three
coming nearly
utensils.
patterns of regular patrons.
Have two
in.
light,
working
to tack a large piece of
to pin patterns on.
them.
all
room a gas plate or small stove
in this
A good
possible, a mirror
The workroom should be
to the floor.
In
if
finished
wooden boxes
If possible
and
(cigar boxes) to
put
utensils in, such as pencils, tracing wheels, tracing
Always keep your chart where
it will
not get broken.
Never show the gowns you make to any one but the son for whom they are made. will lose
have
partly finished
your patrons
if
you
do. 245
It
is
not professional.
When you
are ready to
per
You open
PRACTICAL SEWING AND DRESSMAKING
246
your establishment, send to
all
your friends your
callingcard,,
upon which you have neatly written the word Dressmaking.
Keep your sewingroom
as orderly as possible.
If
sleeves,
one
skirts,
You must keep
one waists,
you need Give one
help, train a person to each part of the business. etc.
a book for your accounts, and put in
it
every
thing you furnish for your patrons, and the cost of each article.
Do
not purchase any expensive material for a customer without
having
first
had them make a deposit with you Send a
the cost of the article.
send out.
If this is
bill
of at least
%
with every piece of work you
not paid in one month send another
bill.
Keep on sending them each month until paid. In figuring the cost of a gown be sure to get in every item, and be sure not to forget to
add a
profit
if
you are
your dry goods merchant the discount.
merchant
to furnish the material.
first
Never give a customer will take it
Go
to
thing and get a dressmaker's this discount
from you.
THE END.
:
if
you do the
AW,
1
1913
V