TT 515
X^. SKIRTS, DRESSES,, lllitid AU Outer Garmenl'
Class.
Book_
.^Zl^p.
CoffyrightN" COPYRFCKT DEPOSIT.
INCE
the establishment of our firm 50 years
and environs, as shown us the most generous patronage. We have long ago, the ladies of Chicago
I
fc^Ji^
'
II
well as our mail customers, have
desired to
One
show our appreciation
of this fact.
of our hardest task has been to find a suit
able offering
welcome and
useful to
all.
After entering into the merits of
we have
many
proposi
decided upon the free distribution to our customers of "The Parisian Ladies' Teuloring System," which enables every one to take measurements, make designs, cut her own patterns, tions,
fit
and make
at last
herself
for
or for
her family,
or for
professional purposes. Suits, Waists, Dresses, or any
Outer Garment,
in
accordance with the prevailing
styles.
our sincere hope that this book will be welinvaluable in every household, and that it will be a guide and boon to the great masses of our It
is
come and
patrons.
The
Excelsior
Dry Goods Company.
PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM or
fi
Designing, Pattern Cutting, Fitting and Making
Waists, Skirts, Dresses, Suits
And
All Outer Garments
A MEANS OF SELF EDUCATION AND A GUIDE FOR EDUCATIONAL INSTRUCTION IN TRADE SCHOOLS AND DOMESTIC SCIENCE INSTITUTIONS ith
Over 100 Explanatory Drawings Charts
22x28
in Text, including
Four Supplementary
inches of Full Size Patterns and Grading
Instruction for Professional Designers
<.
Z.
ZEISLER
Copyrighted 1917
by
A. Z. Zeisler
^\ ^
\o
%"<
Contents Page
Page
Figs.
Measurements width
ol"
talve
tlie
.... .... haek .... .... waist ... .... shoulder ... .... .... .... .... neck ....
Widlli of Lengtli of sides llie
VH.
front
.
.
.
YITI.
7
IX.
Possible changes fashions
32
X.
7
'file
XT.
S
S
of
the
and
....
shirtwaist in
its
XII.
38
...
Collar construction
Pockets
46
50
....
50
cutting of a circular skirt pattern
52
XIII.
Culls and sleeves
XIV.
'file
8
of
38
different
forms
S
.
35
designing liatternmaking basis
34
the
in
The fundamental pattern
7
.
XV.
of
scale
the
.
.
hefoie remeasiuing fundamental iialtern Remeasiuing the measures of width Renieasuring the measures
fundamental the pattern to seamed shoulder effect in front and
back
2(1
XVII.
Adaption of the normal pattern for changed ligures The forward bent ligure .
.
,\rraiiging
21
suits,
CI
the
pattern
.jackets
and
for outer
garments 22
of length
64
XVIII.
The cutting of collars for tailored suits and cloaks
06
XIX.
'file
cutting of capes from the fundamental pattern
82
XX.
For
.
23 2.'!
.
'''he backward bent figure The ligure with broad back .
flat
....
chest
Tables I.
II.
III.
I,
II, III,
21
])rofe;;sional
"The Grading"
2.^
IV, folded at
.
designers:
....
end of book:
Scales of length and width, "Original size."
i\\
fundamental pattern of ba.sciue and sleeves. "Grading" for Professional Designcr.s.
Full sized
and
IV.
50
Changing
Id
Remarks the
....
])leated skirt
XVI.
and
'fhe cutting of the gored
9
designing of the fundamental waist pattern
and
31
'.I
Preparing width "J'he
.... ....
under sleeve 7
S
length
29 30
upper and
the
under sleeve
(i
.
...
28
Renieasuring the upper and
.
Preparing our scales scale the Preparing
Constructing
fi
7
iif
.
.
Cutting of lining and material
(i
Height
Around the Length of underarm Circumference of arm
IV.
y\.
7
Length of slujuhler
...
(i
Around tlie liips Width of chest front
sloping
The slender figure The .short built ligure
,")
2(1
27
with
ligure
shoulders
7
ol'
....
flat
shoulders
Size of arniliole Heiglit of
Lengtli
III.
The
measure
Lenglli of l)ark
II.
â€˘>
.')
ments Around the bust
Around
The
and
lengtli
Remarks on measurements to
4
and their
order
with full chest back figure with high
figure
and
1
2
Tlu' iiieasurenients
How
The
3
Bddy measurements; and
(Continued)
V.
2
Testimonials Charts
,\^ \^
JAN 10 tyi8
\,\n
A
85
Preface VERY as
woman's ambition is to be her neighbor. The secret of
correct
fit
garment
of the
to
at least as perfectly
correct
gowning
the individual
gowned
lies in
the
of
the
figure
wearer.
We
know that the styles change frequently from season we must bear in mind that the underlying principle is
to season, but
"Fundamental Pattern
the
have
we
this,
and after ^ve the socalled "Basque, are able to execute any desired style according varia"
"
tions in vogue.
Many of our Cutting Academies, however, which still cling to "Old Worn Out System" make a number of body measurements the basis of their instructions and graduate their pupils with a stock of stereotyped patterns in hand, and numerous sets of figures in mind, of which memory soon makes a jumble. Some of our tailors and dressmakers in consequence make the sad mistake of attempting to use one pattern for all figures, without discrimination. They reason that all that is needed is a little "taking in, it
or a
"
"little letting
conform
out" of the original pattern
in
order to
As
to the slim or stout figures of their patrons.
make actual
soon convinces them of the incorrectness of their w^ork, and of the impossibility of fitting individual figures in this fashion, they are trial
compelled to waste not only
their time and labor in making neceswear out the patience of their patrons, and in the end they turn out garments which are seldom perfect fitting, comfortable and chic. For several years there has been a widespread demand for
sary alterations, but also
some rational course in Pattern Designing. The author, through long years of experience in foreign countries, and for years in Nev^f York with one of the largest wholesale houses as designer and pattern cutter in ladies' w^earing apparel of all descriptions, has planned this book to serve as a basis for such a course. At the same time its careful omission of all technical expressions, and its plain, simple language cannot fail to recommend it as "A SELF INSTRUCTOR" to home dressmakers who desire well fitting clothes. In pattern designing there are three important considerations to bear in mind: 1) That all figures are fundamentally similar. 2)
That no two human
figures are exactly alike.
vary with the seasons. Hence the author has sought to explain
FUNDAMENTAL PATTERN, and
style that
can be
made by
and secondly,
first,
all
That
3)
the
styles
making of a
changes of form
modification of this pattern.
book will be a boon to those give instruction in dressmaking courses, to thousands who have chosen dressmaking as a profession, and also to the home dressIt
is
certain therefore, that this
who
maker.
A. Z.
Zeisler.
:
:
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Testimonials
From
Louis Grancr
To \vhoni I
it
may
&
Co.. Cloaks,
concern
Mantles, Etc., 305 Canal
St..
New York,
N. Y.
:
consider the cutting system of Mr. A. Z. Zeisler as practical ami useful to
ladies makiufi' their
own garments.
LOUIS GRANER.
Ji/^^. From
^^^.^
L. Adler,
Manufacturer of Furs, 39 St.
Marks
Place,
NcAv York, N. Y.
To Mr. A.
Z. Zeisler
At your request
I
full j' testify that 3'ou
ing i^atterns for
my
herewith cheerhave been makcustomers, and
made
that the garments tlius
actly without being tried on
Therefore relations,
I,
are
as well as
my
thoroughly
fit
ex
fir.st.
Inisiness
pleased
with your system. Respectfully,
^,^.
Mr. A.
L.
Clevelaiul, Ohio.
Z. Zeisler, Practical Designer,
At present
ADLER.
in Cleveland.
Dear Professor The luulersigned, a committee of your pupils, beg leave to hand you herewith a medal as an inadequate mark of our highest respect and our sineerest appreciation of you as our teacher. AVe shall ever remember the most valuable course we went through, aided by your unerring guidance and your lucid explanaWell may Ave congratulate ourselves to have found tion of the Tailor Sy.stem. your method so plain and instructive that after attending your course but for fourteen evening lessons,
we
are
now
fully enabled to
make
all
kinds of patterns in the
and cloak branch, and to grade them most accurately, in a way surpassing all that was known heretofore. the All of which we beg to otTer in the name and as the true sentiment of ladies' dresses
pupils of your evening course.
Very Respectfidly,
THE COMMITTEE. Adolf Barber,
J.
Goodman,
C.
Goodman.
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSTEM
Charts (At end of volume.)
TABLE The The
Scales of Length and
I
Width
in
Original Size
scales of length divided into sixteen (16) equal parts
from
a 13inch length of back to ITJ inches.
The scales of width divided into eighteen (IS) equal parts from a 30incIi (1.5ineli lialf measurement) to 4Sinch (24inch half measurement) around the bust.
TABLE
A
Full Sized
A sleeves,
full
II
Fundamental Pattern
of
Basque and Sleeves
fundamental pattern of basque and width and length measurements and showing how they are made.
sized 86 figure
with a scale of
construction lines,
all
For Professional Designers (See explanation on page 85)
TABLE
III
upper and under sleeves, in full, from a 36 figure down to 30, and up to 48, giving a tabulation of all the necessary measurements.
The grading
of
Table IV
The proper grading of front, back, and side parts in full. from a 36 figure down to a 30, and up to a 48 bust measure, accompanied by a chart giving all required measurements, and also showing the construction of the seamed front made from a loose one.
Around the Bust. Length of Back. Width of Back, Length of Sides. Around the Waist, *
Record Onehalf of
Size of Armhole. Height of Shoulder,
Around tlie Hips. Width of Chest. 10.
all
Height of Front.
Measurements Marked
(*).
11. li;.
*13. 14.
Length of Front. Lengtii of Slioulder.
Around
tlie
Necli.
Lengtii of Under Arm. Circumference of Arm.
PARISIAN
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
The Measurements and Their Order 1—2)
(See Fig.
The measurements are very important. Their chief purpose is to give a thorough knowledge of the build of the body for whioh tlie garment is to be made, and by their means we are enabled to make our pattern correctly and easily for the model.
—
The diagrams. Fig 1 2, show in which way and in what order the measurements are to be taken. After some practice and experience we will be able to produce any style of garment to correspond to these given measurements.
making
In the
and
of waists, suits, skirts,
all
outer garments,
we need
the
following fifteen measurements in order. *1. 2.
*3. 4.
*5.
Around
the bust
6.
Size of armhole Height of shoulder
Length of back Width of back Length of sides
*9.
Around the hips Width of chest
Around
10.
Height of front
7.
*8.
the waist
14.
Length of front Length of shoulder Around the neck Length of inider arm
15.
Circumference of arm
11. 12. ''lo.
Measurements of Length and Width (See Fig. In taking the measurements
we
1
—
2)
notice
that
our
all
measurements
are
length and width measurements.
The Measurements 4. 7.
of
Length of back 10. Height of front Length of sides 11. Length of front Height of shoulder All length measurements are to be recorded
Size of armhole. 15. ments are also recorded in full. 6.
*1.
Around the bust Width of back
I
*5.
I
*8.
12.
IL
Length of shoulder Length of luider arm
in full.
Circumference of arm, altho not length measure
The Measurements *3.
Length Are:
Around Around
of
Width Are:
the waist the hips
In the width measurements only onehalf recorded.
of
*9. '^IS.
the
Width of chest Around the neck
measurements taken are
Remarks on Measurements In oi'der not to omit any measurements and to avoid mistakes, it is advisable to take a strip of paper numbered and marked with the 15 measurements in order. This Avill be of great help to the beginner. All of the examples given in this a length of back of 15 inches.
book are based upon 36 bust figure with
—
Figs. 1 2 show that in taking the measurements the model, measuring, namely: *1. 2.
*3.
Around
the bust
4.
Length of back Width of back Record
Onehalf of
*5.
all
Length of
Around
we begin from
the back of
arm
sides
6.
Size of
the waist
7.
Height of shoulder
Measurements Marked
(*).
hole
2
:
:
PARISIAN
we proceed from
done,
Tliis
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
the front of the tigure, as
shown
in Fig. 1
—
and measure *9.
Around the liips Width of chest
10.
Height of front
*8.
Length of front Length of shoulder Around the neck
11. 12.
*13.
How
Take
to
the
(See Fig.
Length of under arm
14.
Circumference of arm
15.
Measurements 1—2)
All the measurements given in the column to the left are those of a regular
bust figure, with
a length of
trations in this book are based on the
same model.
36inch
around
th<'
*
Around the
1
Around
.
tin
the Bust
bust meas
ure.
Record onlv onehalf.
Length of Back
2.
Length of back,
Take
15 inches. "Write as follows
measurement along the center of the
this
back, from the neck bone spine, to the waist line, and
15/26/51
By
we understand
this
Record
our
length of back is 15 inches to the waist line, 26 for jacket inches length, and 51 inches that
the
in full.
we take this measurement for a jacket or coat, we write this length also. If Ave wish to take the measurement for a skirt we record all three in full, as shown in the opposite colunni.
* 3.
Width
of
Back
careful to take this measiirement neither always according too narrow nor too wide across the back from to the actual fashion one armhole to the other, with the arms dropped in natural position at sides.
lie
—
Width 62
down along
If
from the neck bone to the bottom of the skirt.
*3.
All illus
This measurement is taken from tlie back of the model, around the fullest part of the bust, under the arms, and around the back, about six inches below the collar.
bust,
18 inches.
Onehalf of
back of 15 inches.
of back, inches.
Onehalf of the measure.
—
Record onlv onehalf.
Length of Side
4.
4.
Length of
This
side, 
8i
Write
inches.
as the desired lengths,
81/27/52,
three
•Record Onehalf of
all
J ^ [
measurement
is
taken
from
the
arm
pit to the waist line. For jackets and skirts measure down to the desired lengths, and record as shown in the opposite column in full.
Measurements Marked
(*).
PARISIAN 5.
LADIES' Around
Around
tlie
the Waist
Measurement
take this measurement from the back, where the waistline is most distinctly marked, and
W(>
the waist, 13 inches.
Onehalf of ment.
TAILORING SYSTEM
J
measure
Record only onehalf. Size of
6.
Armhole
the back around the arm socket, sleeve joins the dress. Take carefully, as arms are differently developed.
f Taken from where the
Size or armhole,
J
16 inches.
Record
in full.
Height of Shoulder
7.
is an important measurement, as some models have sloping and some high shoulders. Begin at the waist line in the center of the back, run over the highest point of the shoulder, along the most developed part of
This
Height of shoulder, 33i inches.
the bust,
down
to the center waistline in the
front.
Record
Around
8.
*8.
Around
the Hips
measure is taken from the front around the most pronounced part of the hips, about 7 inches below the waistline.
Tliis
the hips,
20 inches. Onehalf.
Record only onehalf.
L
Width *9.
Width
in full.
of Chest
Take along front from one armhole
to the other inclined bow line over the most developed part of the bust.
of chest,
in a
8^ inches.
downward
Onehalf.
Record only onehalf. 10.
Height of Front at the back neck bone at the base of the neck, run over the shoulder to the center of the front to the waistline.
Begin 10.
Height of front, 21 inches.
1 I
Record
in full.
Length of Front
I.
^
measurement begins in front at the base and runs down to the waistline. For jackets and skirts, measure down to the
Tliis
of the neck
11.
Length of front, 16/26/51
J
required length of these garments.
Record Record Onehalf of aU Measurements Marked
(*).
in full.
PARISIAN
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
Length of Shoulder
12.
Measure
I'loui
the base of the neck along shoul
der to the arm socket.
This length depends upon prevailing fashions, and could be made
Ijciigth of shoulder,
12.
5 inches.
shorter or longer, as explained later.
Record in
*
Around
*13.
tlie
I
3.
Around
the
Neck
Run
neck,
the tape measure around the base of the neck.
/
64 inches.
1
4.
Record onehalf.
Length of Under
Arm down to the inside of down to the wrist,
M<'asuri' fi'oni the armpit
8J
— 18
.ioint
then
and reco^'d botii of the ascertained measures as shown in opposite column. Record in full.
iuchea.
15.
15.
elbow
the
Length of under arm.
14.
full.
Circumference of
Arm
Pass till' tape around arm, ami
Circumference of arm, 10 inches.
tin
Record
Preparing (See Tables
I— IT
Our at
thickest part of the
in full.
Scales
end of Volume)
Since our system is based \ipon length and coriect scales of miasuri'mrnts in order to design
a\
a
idth measurements, we need fundamental pattern for each
model.
Our
scale of length
The
scale of width
is
based upon measurenu'ut (two)
depends upon measurement (one)
1,
2.
the length of back.
the around the bust
measure. In our previous study figure
is
bust measurement.
*
we saw
the length of back of a regular 36 was recorded as onehalf of the around the mind we are ready for our scale. that
15 inches and that 18 inches
With
these in
Record Onehalf of aU Mpasiirements Marked
(•).
.PARISIAN
LADIES'
The Take a back
TAILORING SYSTEM
Scale of Length
paper one inch in width, exactly as long as the length of In example cited tliat lengtli is 15 inches.
strip of
to the waistline.
Fold this strip of paper into four equal parts, and each of these divisions Thus the whole length of back is divided into again into four equal parts. sixteen (16) parts, which serve as our scale of length.
Kemember and
shorter,
if
that
if
the length of l)ack
we have
shorter,
is
the
divisions
be
will
a longer length of back, the divisions will be longer,
but the length must always be divided into sixteen (16) equal parts.
The
Width
Scale of
In preparing the scale of width, do not forget that
we
use as a basis one
we
half of the around the bust measurement. In our illustration of the 36 model,
recorded 18 inches.
Cut a strip of paper one inch (1) wide, exactly onehalf as long as the around the bust measure. Fold inta three equal parts. Then refold each of those equal parts into three. Next fold each of these nine (9) equal parts in half. We have now eighteen (IS) equal parts. In forget,
tlu'
1st.
illustration each of these parts
that
tin
onehalf of the around
,
â€˘^
of
size
tlie
the
is
one
parts vary with
bust measure
is
(1)
inch
the bust
long,
but do
mea.sure
;
2d,
not that
always divided into eighteen (18) equal
parts.
Remarks About For convenience
the Scales
making the
scales of length and width easily and corend of the book in Table I, scales of length from 13 to 174 inches length of back, and scales of width from 15 to 24 inclies onehalf aro^^nd the bust measurement. in
rectly, 3'ou will find at the
These scales of length and scales of width in Table I should be used for both Df our scales, as they have the advantage of being divided correctly. If we copy these scales of length and width from Table I and paste each on a separate strip of cardboard, we have both of our scales in readiness for any size of figure, and thus avoid wasting time preparing them when needed.
lengtli
For the pupil it is of the greatest importance to know how our scales and width are prepared for any figure, should he be called upon
make
these scales himself.
of to
Bear in mind simpl.y that the scale of length is always divided into sixteen (16) parts, and the scale of width always into eighteen (18) equal parts. "With the length and width scales in hand, the designing of our fundamental waist pattern.
we
are
now prepared
to start
10
PARISIAN
The Designing
TTT TTT Z
e
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
"Fundamental Waist Pattern'
of the
TTT
TTT ^
f^
9
9
8
Tl O
01
II
ol
Fig. 3
TAILORS' SQUARE
Fig.
3A
TRACINGWHEEL
Fig. Hlu'cI.
.3
shows us
a tailoriv square.
Both are needed for correct drawing and tracing.
"Witli this tailor's
square
wt' juepare
lines perpendicular to each other, as
mark
Fig. 3A, a traeing
the same
A —B
and
A— C.
on a sheet of paper
shown
in Fig.
4,
and
PARISIAN
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
11
B
4
Fig. Reduced
Mark
to
Onefourth
A— B
the horizontal line
and the vertical
2
A— C.
12^
81
A
line
Fig. 5 Reduced
51
Having drawn our
we begin
to
lines
Onefourth
perpendicular to each other,
mark
the points of widtli with our scale of width, along our horizontal line from to B, as shown to
A
in Fig.
.5.
8i
Using one part of our scale of width as our unit of measure,
we mark
this distance
off respectively 4, 8j, 1^^, 17, 19
along
our scale of width.
A —B,
times thus adding one unit part to
These points we
call
our width points.
With one part of our scale of length as our unit of we proceed, according to the diagram in Pig. 5, mark off 2, 5^, 8^, 14^ times the length of this unit
measure, to
14J
from
A
toward
C,
and
call these
points our length points.
We readily see that the length and width points vary with the size of each of the equal parts of the scale, for we must 1/16 and
not forget that the length of these parts are IS of their respective measurements.
1
17
19
B
C
PARISIAN
12
LADIES'
Next we take measurement illustration, hut
and beginningpoint
z.
11.
TAILORING SYSTEM
Length of
front, sixteen (16) inches in the
always the exact measurement of the
at the
length point
2,
measure
as sliown in the illustration. Fig.
5.
Fig.
6
lengtli of front of the model,
this distance
along
A— C.
121
8^
Letter this
19
17
B
14.1
Fig. 6
shows vertical
and horizontal
lines
lines
drawn from
drawn from
the width points parallel
the length points parallel to
The numberings of our length and width
jioints are
beginning, as an aid in memorizing these dimensions. in
making the fundamental pattern.
to
A—
A— B.
necessary only in the
They may
later be omitted
:
PARISIAN
LADIES'
we have added
In Fig. 7
TAILORING SYSTEM and points
certain lines
13
to our preceding figure,
namely 1st.
2d. is
one
(1)
—
A B, drawn from a point inch above z. auxiliary line parallel to A B, drawn from the point b. Avhich inch above the auxiliary line previously made, or Ij inches above z.
An An
auxiliary line parallel to
]
—
Fig. 7 19
12^
8i
51
Point
one unit part of our scale of width from point 2. The line and ending about half way between Si 14Jon the vertical line A C, forms our front line. 4th. The auxiliary line from point 17 to 5^ gives us the back shoulder line. 5th. The auxiliary line from point 4 to the point Avhere 5i meets 19 is our front shoulder line. 6th. The auxiliary line from point e to 14J indicates to us the height of our 3d.
bow
line
a.
Avhich
is
—
from a crossing our 5^
—
darts or dart. 7tli.
The
full line
extending through
f
—g
to the z line
is
our center back
line.
8th. The points c, one unit part of the scale of width, and d, onehalf of one unit part of our scale of width, measured respectively from points wliere line
5 crosses lines 8^ and 12i. These points will be used in connection lines.
with the formation of armhole
PARISIAN
14
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Fig. 8 shows us all the points formerly explained with the followinp additions
:
Fig. 8
19
17
12.1
B
5i
m.
8i
14J
At a distance of two unit parts of the scale of width the points k and 1 are placed respectively to the left and right of the intersection of line 4 and the bottom line. These points are connected with the dart line 14^ e at line 4, and thus form our dart. curve that begins at the auxiliary front shoulder line, passes The line 5^—17 and the full 12^ through c. m, d. to tlie intersection of the armholc. This gives the line. From point 19 measure down a distance equal to one unit part of our scale of length and mark this point s. Connect 17 an(l s with a curve line, to secure lines. the back line collar cutout as marked in From point s through points f and g, along the center back line, the distance s— i equals the length of liack measurement (15 inches according to our
model
figure).
At
i
From
we have point
i,
— —
i i
j
perpendicular to
s
—
i
meeting the
121
hne
at
j.
o is parallel to auxiliary line b.
Point o is connected with 1 by a curve wliicli passes through r. This curved line represents our front and side waist line. the interis about one unit part of our scale of width distant from Point the line n is drawn to about the section of line 81 and 8i. From point center of the lowest line'. The points need not be exactly measured, as any deviaIf tion to either one side or other does not aflfect the correctness of the pattern. both are located about centrally between 81 and 12i the side effect of pattern is
m
better balanced.
m
m—
PARISIAN In Fig. 9
we
see the
LADIES'
same
lines
TAILORING SYSTEM
we have mentioned
the following:
ig
in our
15
former tigure plus
PARISIAN
16
From
till'
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
foot of our back side line
we measure on From
line z a distance equal
to onehalf of the unit part of the scale of width.
straight construction line in
about
lialf
way between
to the 8^ line
with
tlie
8 and Hi. and thence curve to d.
this
point
we draw
a
which it meets From here we follow the back side curve
lines to
our back side
line,
This gives us the side part that connects
back.
From u measure both right and left a distance equal to onehalf part of our scale of width and connect both these new found points and
a
unit
m
with
line.
lines to point v, a little rounded cutout gives note also that in next extend the waist the waist line. at curvein correct piece a side the line. line from o to this
We
We
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
17
Prevailing fashions dictate whether tlie back or the side parts shonld be narrow or wide, and accordingly we either make narrow backs and wide side parts, or vica versa, as either would be correct, and would make no particular difference in the structure of the pattern. In the same way we make our front parts narrower or wider, as
we
shall see in our next figure.
In Fig. 10 we see exactly the same as in our former figure. We have omitted our construction lines for our fundamental pattern, and have worked instead in heavy lines. Our remarks following explain our new lines. all
Fig.
11
we notice at a glance that our back side line, which joins our longer at the top and shorter at tlie waist line, and that the corre
In this figure side piece
is
sponding side
But
line of the side part
after cutting out our pattern
actly in their length
In Fig. 10
making
we
of a short
from the top
extension below the waist
line.
will find that
both of these correspond ex
to the waist line.
and
find in
"basque" and
shorter at the top and longer at the waistline.
is
we
in
in
lines
heavy
an illustration of the shaped
lines a longer differently
PARISIAN
18
From our end
line z
front line,
and beyond,
ing the
we
lli,
notice in
extending toward our
lines
a cutout of onehalf of a unit
diminishing towards our hip
We
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
part of the scale of width
line.
k
find also that the dart line to
is
shorter than the dart line to
the length of the second in sewing, will secure a better
first to
In eases of stout figures
it
is
of the utmost importance to
1.
make two
instead of one, and also two side parts instead of one, to secure a better
IIow these changes are made
an exact division of breaking points. and shown in Fig. \1.
From k
to
Fig. S measuring
along base line
Now
we
1
is
darts
fit,
and
described
which we have constructed in of Avidth on each side of line 4
see our original single dart,
two unit parts
of the scale
z.
]ilaee
in
Stretch
fit.
of this one
dart
we must
construct two darts, but both of
these together nuist not measure more than four unit parts of our scale of width
that
is,
;
the exact measure of one dart.
Along
line z
measure both
and
to the right
left of line 4, a distance
to one unit part of our scale of width, marki]ig points
draw
lines parallel to line 4 to
along line
z,
l)oth to right
and
meet dart
left of line 4,
mark
w
and
z.
line 14^ e at off
equal
At these points p and q. Now
points at distance of i a
unit part of the scale of width, and connect respectively with p and q in lines p and q. with points that measure Next connect by means of lines.
one and onehalf (lil unit parts of
Tims we
th(^
scale of width
see that each of these darts
from
measure two
z
luiit
and w. parts of our scale
of widiii. and are therefore no wider togctlie) than one dart, which
we remem!)er
measures four unit parts.
Now bottom
line of the first
line
to
point
Dart one from the front The second dart bottom line. dart, with the first dart line of the seeond dart, from tin bottom The second dart and line i of an inch above bottom line. lines tlie following:
connect with
line, to
liui'
]
of an inch above
r.
The corresponding edges of the darts are not identical in length, but nuist be stretched, as we found it was necessaiy to do in the case of the single dait in order to secure shapeliness in the garment. "We further see in Fig. 11 the division of the one side part of our previous two side parts, which we can make narrower or wider at will. We
figure into
must, however, bear in mind that the width of the cutouts between the two side parts and the side part and front must not exceed together the width of the original side cutout at u, which is equal to one unit part of tlu' scale of width. Fig. 12 shoMs the basque waist line in n,
and ending
in line v,
and the back
line
which
line is
passing through
between
j
and
1,
r,
i.
sired,
As we have stated before, all our jiattcrns are based on the "basque." If, however, the basque is not deis the "fundamental Avaist" patt<'rii. we sec in the next figure how to make tlie necessary changes in the front
Avaist
line.
which
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSILM
Fig.
19
12
In this figure point x is taken eqnidistant and 4 along line A B. Now with a thread looped for a pencil, as shown in the figure by the lines, from x as the pivot point for a thread held with the left thumb, describe the heavy broken ark z, u.
from point
all
A
â€”
This gives a Avaist line which we shall use in future fundamental patterns.
auxiliary line i inch above was of value only in the construction of the basque waist line, and may now be omitted from our future drawings.
shows a simplified pattern with lines and lines that show deviation from the original pattern, omitted. Fig.
1.3
many explanatory
When
this pattern has
been correctly drafted, according to previous instruepaper under pattern (pinning pattern and paper together to pr event slipping), and with tracing wheel (Fig. 3) trace the front, side, and back along the heavy lines. Next cut out the three separate pieces and lay aside the original drawing for future reference.
tions, place a sheet of .
20
PARISIAN
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
Fig.
13
With these separate pai'ts hiid l)eofore us we proceed to remeasure our pattern.
Remarks Before Remeasuring
the
Fundamental Pattern
â€”
Fig. 14 15 explain how the tliree different parts of the pattern, front, side, and back, are placed before we are able to remeasure according to the fifteen (1.5) body measurements previously made, beginning
with measure 14,
1 and ending Avith 1.5. The measurements, 8, around the liips: length of arm; 15, circumference of
arm,
we
We
will find in
our later diagrams.
order to measure 7, height of shoulder; 10, height of front; 12, length of slioulder, and 13, around the neck, we must place the shoulder of the back to the shoulder of the front (as shown in Fig. 14 15), to enable us to compare these measurements with those previously made, putting the same back to their proper places for remeasuring all of tlie other parts. find
that
â€”
in
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Fie.
*3.
*5.
*j *9.
Z]
14
Around the bust, 18. Width of back, 6i. Around tlie waist, 13. Around the hips, 20. Width of chest, 8^
12.
Length of shoulder.
13.
Around the neck,
5.
6^.
Remeasuring the Measures of Width Li remeasuring, our pattern, we lind siiown in Fig. li the results of the
width measurements of a model with a regular 36 bust measure (IS inches half measure) to be namely: 1, around the bust, 18; 3, width of back, 6^; 5, around the waist, 12; 9, width of chest, 8J; 12. length of shoulder, 5; 13, around the neck, 13. If the model is perfectl.y built we will find these correct the slight difference which may occur in some measurements may be easily corrected, as we will show ;
in the future diagrams.
PARISIAN
22
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Remeasuring the Measurements of Length "\Yc liave
in Fig. 14.
explained the remeasurin>; of the width measures of our pattern to the remeasuring of our measurements of
The same rule applies
length in Fig. 15.
2. 4.
Length of back, 15. Length of side, 82.
6.
Size of armhole, 16.
7.
Height of shoulder, 33 Height of front, 21. Length of front, 16.
10.
11.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
Adaption of the Normal Pattern
TAILORING SYSTEM to Socalled Slightly
23
Changed Figures
We
would be making a serious mistake to assume that every tigure is perfectly normally built; that is to say, that every tigure is built iu exactly the same proportion as our 36 model, given in our drawings. In most cases, however, we are able to make slight which correct the slight differences that arise through the variations in proportions. In such cases we consider our figures perfect in spite of the fact that they do not come up to the standard model. alterations
The Forward Bent Figure Fig 16 shows a forward bent figure. In Fig. 17, in heavy lines, we see the regular or fundamental pattern, and in lines variations from this, necessary for the model shown in Fig. 16. Thus we see that iu cases iu which the back is somewhat bent forward, the back part must be a little longer, that the back shoulder with the neck cutout nuist be changed, and that the front shoulder and front line must be shortened. Such slight changes that may be necessary can easily be made if a little extra material is allowed in the seams.
PARISIAN
24
Fig.
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
18
The Backward Bent Figure 111
namely
Figs. 18 tlie
and 19 we
backward
lieiit
.see
an exactly opposite
figure.
case,
Therefore the back
must he shortened by changing the neck and shoulder line,
and both front shoulder and front
lengthened. in
mental
line
must be
All other necessary changes are also lines,
ijattern,
Fig.
to
marked
19
marked
distinguish them from the fundain full lines.
PARISIAN Fig.
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
25
20
The Figure with Broad Back and
Flat
Chest Fig. 20 shows us a wide back, Fig. 21
we
the changes
notice in
we have made
mental pattern, which
and
lines
is
in
in all
onr funda
shown
heavy
in
lines.
Our back, we
note, has been widened,
while the chest has been ately narrower.
made
Our shoulder
also been changed.
proportionlines
have
PARISIAN
26 Fis.
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
22
The Figure with
Full Chest
and Flat Back
Fig. 22 shows us a figure with full chest.
In Fig. 23
we
lines the neces
see iu
sary changes from our fundamental pattern. notice that the back has been
the front
wider for the
full
We
made narrower and bust,
and that the
shoulder line of the back has also been slightly
changed.
Fig.
23
PARISIAN Fig.
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
27
24 The Figure with High Shoulders Fig. 24
shows us high shoulders, and
Fig. 25 the fundamental pattern in full
and
lines,
the lines.
necessary
We
have
changes raised
in
the
height of the shoulders of the front part as well as the hack, as they
would have
heen too low for this figure, according
to
the measurements taken
We Tlie
have also changed the armhole.
tape measure on these three parts
shows these changes
Fig.
25
clearlv.
28
PARISIAN Fig.
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
26
The Figure with Sloping Shoulders Fig.
'26
lu Fig. 27
sliow.s
we
us the sloping shoulder.
see that
we have
increased
the slope of our shoulder lines in lines, in
order to
make
the measurements
of the height of shoulder correspond to
the measurements of our model in Fig. 26.
Tiu'
altered.
Fig.
27
armhole has also heen slightly
PARISIAN
TAILORING SYSTLM
LADIES"
29
The Slender Figure Fig. 28 shows us a slender figure, in which
the following measurements are longer than the
normal
model
:
length
the
of
back,
the
the
length of sides, the height of shoulder, the height of front, the length of front,
and the length of
under arm.
The slight
lines
in
Fig.
29.
indicate
the
changes to he made in the fundamental pattern,
if
after re
measuring we notice that the length measurements of the pattern do not exactly agree with those of the model. Fig.
In drawing our fundamental pattern
28
all
these
work out
Fig.
29
parts
will
correctly.
30
PARISIAN
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
The Short Fig'.
fnrr
Built Figure
slioAvs the sliort built figure, and therefuudinniMital pattern must lie shorter uornuil.
30
the
tiiau tile
lines, marking length In Fig. 31 the of back, length of sides, height of shoulder, height of front, and length of front are shorter than the full lines marking the original fundamental pattel'll.
e
no^v given the most important devianornnd which the pupil may encounter in actual work Avith different models, and we have tried to show how to meet these difficulties by making the correct variations in our patterns.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
The Cutting After
all
TAILORING SYSTEM
of Lining
corrections liave been made,
and Material and our fundamental pattern has
to correspond with the measurements the cutting of our linings and materials. l)een
31
changed
of our figure,
we
j)roeeed
to
we must be careful to lay out our pattern (lengthwise) would lie on the body if ready to wear. The iieavy lines indicate how much we have to add to these parts for seams, the width of the heavy lines being the measure. In the
first
place
on the material, as
this
The general allowance for seams is f of an inch, except for the center Vinek. shoulders and front line, in which case we allow  of an inch.
An extra allowance not shown in this pattern of 1 inches the front line for a hem, buttons and button holes.
is
made along
On the right front, however, I of an inch of this extra allowance must be cut away in order that this front, wliich contains button holes, shall properly lap over our buttons, and thus give a centrally located front line. Fig. 32.
A
.shows the front,
B
side part,
C
the back of our pattern.
The sleeves (which we show in our next diagram) must also lie lengthwise on our material, if we wish the grain of the material to run the same in both waist and sleeve.
PARISIAN
32
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM Under Sleeve
Constructing the Upper and
In Fig. 33, ent sleeves, the
D— E,
first
and Fig.
3t,
F— G, we show
a Avider one for use
second a narrower one for
the construction of two differ
and outer garments,
jackets
in
the
dresses, suits, etc.
"We will find other sleeves in our later examples.
As
in
our fundamental waist pattern, we
draw
first
the lines perpendicular
A—B
to each other with the "tailors' square," lettering the horizontal line
the vertical line
A—
C.
From
A — B,
point A, along
with the scale of width, marking off 3,
7,
and
measure the width points
SI times one unit part of the scale.
A
Next from point ure 2J and
A— C,
meas
unit parts of the scale of
i^
(These
width.
along
two measurements
first
of
the sleeves are always measured with the scale of width.)
From 211
A
point
we next measure
and 23 inches along (All
ured
points
these
12,
A — C.
are
always meas
in inches.)
Finish the drawing of cross lines as in the diagram.
The distance from from n
to d, 9 inches,
f to n.is
li inches,
making
the length
of the under sleeve in Fig. 33 and 34, 17
inches for our 3G model.
But we tance from
correspond
miast to
f
to
remember that the
dis
n and n to d must always the measurements taken
from the actual figure of the model. "We notice in Fig. 33 and 34 that from point
over
circle for
3
to
our sleeve
e
Ave
draw a
semi
ball.
connect points e and f with then draw our curve e f of an inch with a maximum distance of "We
first
lines,
]
We lines just made. from the have now the curve of the upper sleeve. From point f through n, Avhich marks the intersection of lines 7 and 12, to the intersecting point of lines 8 and 211, draw upper
a curve for the sleeve.
underarm seam
of
C
;
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM The heavy point lines
33
connecting the last
line
d with the intersecting point of 32 and 23 marks the bottom of sleeve.
lines the end of Connect with bottom of sleeves and 12, for the auxiliary onter line of npper sleeve.
Next measure in from point 4 a distance of ^ of an inch, marking point t. Connect o and t with a curve. From t continue in double curves, as shown in
below 12 in the made. Make the "We rest of auxiliary line a heavy line. now have our npper sleeve and proceed to the under sleeve. figure, to a j^oint a little
before
auxiliary line
In Fig. 33, D, from point a,  inch line, above the intersection of
along 3^
— —
line a 3^ and 2, draw the Point g is half way between lines A
g.
and 3^ on line 12. Connect g and h, which is one (1) inch along the bottom lines. Comby connecting lines just made with an elbow the curve near g. This forms the outer curve of the under sleeve.
sleeve line, also with plete the
heavy
line a
—h
Along line 4i mark with b a point Connect halfway between 3i and 7. with curve a, b. c and r, for cutNote in figure that out of under arm.
—
b reaches an inch away from curve a
Now
highest point i of
its
line a
—
b.
and continuupper sleeve curve, we get the inner curve of lower connecting r and
ing along the line
n,
the
of
sleeve.
We and
8.1.
line
In Fig. 34,
F and
marks
from
4J.
t
—k
section of lines 21J
a
G, the following changes
In the upper sleeve, point
Line
n and d which narrower nndersleeve.
lines connecting
notice
This
t
is
—
one
(1)
have been made
inch instead of
—
and line k and 3^ meets the bottom line a is
parallel to o
12,
The elbow rounding connecting these two
equidistant from 7
is
1
trifle
lines
—
]
of an inch distant
passing through the inter
above
near k
—
23. is
the
same
as in
lines a g and g h. with tlw (ll)ow In the nndersleeve the nndersleeve. We also notice of narrower the onter curve a show near rounding g, } an inch from i. of along a a curve g,
Fig. 33.
—
PARISIAN
34
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Remeasuring the Upper and Under Sleeves
As tlie arms in different models vary greatly in their development, we must be eareful in our remeasuring in order to make tlie sleeve neither too wide nor too narrow. shows how cumferenee of arm, are to Fig.
If
3")
6.
size of armholi',
lie
I'emeasiired.
14,
length
need he. wi lengthen or shorten the sleeve a
or widen or narrow
it,
to
make
it
of
little,
underarm,
15,
as the case
may
eir
he,
correspond to the measurements taken. \Ye must hear in mind, however, that
Fig. 35
the
measure of the
top
of
upper
the that
sleeve,
the
is
sleeve ball, together
with the cutout of the u n d e r sleeve,
must
a
1
about
ways
two
be
inches
larger than the arm
measure
hole
taken
on the model. In
finishing
garment, hole
of
be
while
the
the upper
be held
stretched
curve
e
order
in
in,
movement
2
of
arm must ease
;_;ecure
W
e
waist
the
must
to
t li
arm
the
for
nnist inclies
of
the
add 1\ to
the
th of sleeves for
ng.
PARISIAN Fig.
upper, and
36 shows J>
oui'
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
sleeve
the under sleeve.
pattern without
The heavy
construct ion
liiu^s.
35
A
is
the
an inch in width, uuirk the to 2 inches, as before mentioned, must be lines, f of
allowance for the seams. An extra 1i allowed at the bottom for inside finishing. Fig.
36.
Possible Changes in the Fashions
The fashions may lujdergo changes, but we must always use the fundamental pattern for the basis for any sleeve, as arms will always have tliL^ same shape, regardless of changes of styles. The length of shoulder may be longer or shorter, but this need not cause any difficulty, as the patterns may easily be changed to accommodate the style in vogue. Our next figures show how these changes are to be made.
36
PARISIAN
LADIES'
Fie.
TAILORING SYSTEM
37
In Fig. 37, A,
Fig.
38
we
upper part of
see the
the front, side, and back of our funda
mental pattern marked lines
we
see
in
In
full lines.
how
to
make
a
change for a narrower front and back shoulder.
Always bear
in
mind that the
auxil
iary slioulder lines are the same, and that
only the cutout of the armliole has been enlarged, thereby forming a larger armhole
and
"We readily see that size of the
narrower
leaving
arm
we must
ball,
in
shoulders. increase the
order to be able
to ease our sleeve properly into the
arm
cutout of the waist. Fig.
38
shows
us
the
sleeve pattern in full lines
and the newly
formed curve of the armball lines.
fundamental
in
PARISIAN
LADIES'
Fig.
y
TAILORING SYSTEM
39
37
PARISIAN
38
The Fundamental
Now
tliat
Pattern the Basis of Designing and
making
are ready to study the
waists
Making
Pattern
mastered the drafting of our fundamental pattern we
liavc
\v(>
TAILORING SYSl EM
LADIES'
of changes
necessary
form patterns of
to
shirt
hlouses.
aiiil
We
shall also
.see
how garments may
onepiece sleeve can be drafted from our previotis pattern, and cuffs witli all the multitudinous variations
Of course only
few problems
a
we
are of such a nature that
due
making
shall give tlie
and
collars
these
l)ut
our readers can
feel assitred that the intelligence of
cope with further problems through the study of
We
how
the
changing fashions can be made.
to
construction are illusti'ated.
in
how
he lengthened or shortened,
tliese.
of the sliirtwaist pattern
place in our
first
illus
trations.
The shows us
Fig. 41
Shirtwaist In
Forms
Different
Its
a shirtwaist pattern,
making
the
of which will be fully
explained.
be advisable, however, for the pupils to study Figs. 42. 43. 44,
A\(.iuld
It
together with 41.
we have
In Fig. 42
pattern (in
along
lines)
A— B.
and
A—B
of center front waist line measures
d on
A—
Note that the dart
('.
a
position
two
we
—
line
f
We
e
—
g,
as
left in the pattern,
position
e
—— f
falls
the point
from
but as they are
shown
From
e.
f
measure
one (1) unit part of the
g. ecpials to
in
lines.
fundamental pattern, the extra allowance falling from d
is
c.
front of our shirt
three (3) tmit parts of our scale of width larger than that of our
is
From d
point
an angle that
readily understand that the waist measure of the
waist pattern
we note
shoulder
the
b.
at such
ignore them.
prolonged, a distance to
and connect
scale of width,
Place the fundamental
unit parts of our scale of width
('2)
Our fundamental pattern now takes c
that
A— C
have been
lines
of no value in our present problem,
along the
A — C.
perpendictdar to
such
in
in
sleeves.
the neck cutout along
a,
made
order to familiarize themselves Avith the changes
in
and upper and lower
front, back, side,
to
C measure two
our waist
draw u
inches and
This extra length
line.
may
—
v.
to e
and
f to g.
parallel to d
—
g.
which
be gathered for peplum above
or below skirt.
From draw
point
the
L
a little to the right of the middle of the neck rounding a
line line b
—F.
L
— —F p
in
y,
to
from the shoulder to a point lower down
shows a deeper cutout. b
—
form the Vshaped neck, shown
—
The triangle L lines
—— ci
show how
y,
lapels
the
lines
in
couhl be
made L
bending instead of cutting the pattern along the respective lines
—
front
b,
The
in Fig. 41.
line,
and triangle if
—
desired,
y and b
by
—F.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
PARISIAN
40
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
A —B
Fig. 43 shows our periHudieular
A — C.
to
mental liaek pattern so that the neck rounding should our center back at the waist
a position that k,
line,
at
lie
and
i
two
falls
our
place
"VVe
funda
such
in
h,
unit parts of
(2)
our scale of width from n.
We and
next place the side piece to the back so that the two pieces join at m,
of the side piece falls at a distance of one
1
width from
j.
From
and from
to
s
This extra allowance
X
made
oiu'
is
unit part of our scale of width.
(1)
play
to give freer
parallel to the waist line
z.
t
—n
tions to the pattern in
In Fig. 43
we
is
shown
to
side,
as
garment. The
tightfitting
of the fundamental pattern,
Our fundamental pattern
the front.
and
arndiole
the
for
and gives an allowance of two inches
line, in
is
to r
t
must be more roomy than the ordinary
the shirtwaist line
unit part of our scale of
(1)
shown
is
in
correspond to the changes lines
and the addi
a onepiece pattern
by joining the
in
lines.
we have made
notice that
The new pattern
three
(3)
nnit
parts of our scale of width wider than the original, as explained above.
If,
how
we
ever,
fundamental pattern.
of our
and back
side
we
the back in one piece
Avish
is
along the length
lay our pattern just
wise fold of our material.
In Fig. 44 Ave see the upper and under sleeve
our armhole Ave haAe
Fig. 43 has been
in
added
]
nmde
inch to each of our seams in order to
except along the shoulders, front, and back, where
Along the front the
4
Ave
make an
:
extra albiA\anee
lines
alloAved.
is
inches
Ij
as
that
changed armhole.
tliis
fit
inch of
But
lines.
in
in
addition
to
sleeves
as
inch already allowed, to be used as facing.
We Ave
in
larger Ave shoAv
shoAV the construction of collars,
Avill
cufifs,
and
(litf<'rent
proceed further. In Fig. 45 AVe give an example of a Avaist with slight changes in the con
struction. otherAvise
pattern.
In
all
changes are the
Fit;'.
46 the neck cutout d Avidtli
If Ave cut
slope in toward
along
—
f
line
e
— C,
A — ('.
parallel
lines
Tliis increase. hoAvever,
way is
it
to
A—
only
(',
lines, Avill
Avhich
e.
This point
as shoAvn in
the Avaist, Avhile the otlicr
line, as in Fig. 45.
continued to point
is
from the
nected Avith g as shoAvn in ('.
as in our
contiinu'
made on
e
Avhich
left off.
left
in this Avay
turn
in
is
Avill
a straight
the right side, as only
be not only useless, Init in the Avay and, therefore, should be cut
should lap over,
Tlu extra material
in
be con
our lapOA'er
down
(2)
is tAA'o
may
on the
this
former
foUoAving:
Thi'
unit parts of our scab' of
joined to
made
the same measurements are to be
side Avould
In Fig. 47 Ave see the same pattern to the waist line as given in our illuslines on the shouder. corresponding to tration. Avith the adilition of the
our front
iiart.
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
41
PARISIAN
42
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
Fig 48 shows how the front and liack part meet along
and
gives
also
The
side of the seam.
eithei'
shoulder
formation of an extra
the
liiii's
strap
Fig. 46
in
— 47
on front and back to make the shoulder illustrated
falls
shows a
Fig. 49
low
eollareut in
In Fig.
"(O
with three
Avaist
we observe
Fig.
and back, with a
front
in
V
to give the correct
o,
shown
and the
f
room i of
may
the pattern, but
in
to
These inserts are
pleats.
The
Fig. 49.
in
form the
needed
one
is
lines parallel
indicate where the original pattern sliould be cut to give serts that are
this strap
4.'i.
that the neek rounding extends to n, which
one and onehalf inches (11) from
f.
show where
in
on
lines
front.
and onedialf inches (H) from line
pleats
(:>)
center shoulder,
tlie
in
make
to
an inch
to
it,
the in
in
width
be increased or diminished according to the width of the
]deats desired.
Fig. 51
shows how our
and
Fig. 52 shows the back pattern with ]ileats to
nmtch the
This pattern
front.
on cither
lines
and the pleat stitched along the
side are brought together,
The
iiattern cut with the extra allowance appears.
heavy line represents the fold, while the
lines.
marking
lines
places
for
increased exactly in the same fashion
is
as the front.
Fig.
").'!
Our figure shoMs
back, or on either side only.
gathered instead, both
in
The sleeve shown
for
/„
s
Tile
—
f
The short
lines,
neck
the
shoAvs
line
different styles of yokes, nanu'ly
jiarallel
=^=
vertical lini's
lines
mark
Fig. 55 shows the lines:
the curve that
We in
e
and the
i
—
\oke position after proper liending
—
has a wide bottom curve, but could be
made
later.
the
The
cut.
v
—x —
deep,
indicate
f
the
shorter,
the
cut
and
the
yoke.
<'Ui'\'e(l
in
and
front
in
pleats, but this fullness could be
in the Ijack.
line to line
the
tlii'ee
tile
and
in this figure
Fig. 54 the
In
Y—
111,,,
front
shown
differently, as will be
which can be nuide
a yoke,
shows us a waist with
c
—
is
1,
an
above
inch
v
—
z,
indicate
the
deep
along both cut edges for seams.
the pleats.
back with the the shorter,
necessary to
must not forget
g.
in of niati'rial
ielative
in
form
in Figs. 45, 49,
connection with Fig. 41, namely
• a
yoke
cuts;
lines,
and
— h—
o
1,
t
point at the center back,
53,
to nnd^e the allowance
f of an inch for side seams,
'}
the
deep,
in if
desired.
mentioned
of an inch for
shoulder, center of the back and front, 11 inches in addition to the above men
tioned
low
5
tlie
of an inch along the front for facing,
waist line.
and 2 inches for extra length be
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
43
44
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
PARISIAN
1
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
/^^^^^.~.________^rrx
45
PARISIAN
46
LADIES"
and under
Fig. 56 shows us an upper
reduced
A — B,
Avith reference to tlie liorizontal line
indicate
larged armliole of
mark
the
figure
lines
The
waist.
shirt
Fig. 57 shows us the
a.xis line
A— B,
,
tliat
may
the sleeve
u
and
,
the en
fit
w
be desired.
and the original fundamental sleeve
we
addition
the
see
the upper part, to conform
in
make
lines a
and widths
In full lines
lines.
sleeve pattern
are each 3J
the original sleeve pattern, while the
necessary to
allowance
the
tlie
pattern in
H
that the points 8 and
show
lines
full
different sleeve lengths
tlie
such a position
in
A — B.
inches from the axis the
sleeve of our fundamental pattern
The two parts are placed
to oneeighth of full size.
In
TAILORING SYSTEM
with
made
widen the
to
armhole of the
Avider
tlie
waist.
The sleeve pattern has been so placed that and
A—B
from the central axis
s
higher or lower as desired, Fig.
58
shows us the center
undersleeves. in
s— s
from L
line
to s
demonstrate the fact that the width of
tance
s
tlie
—X
equals
add the curve
We
tlie
distance
—
f
we
t
is
or
made
—
s
cut
—
equal to o
t,
The point
away a.
parallel to our central line
is
collars.
sleeve.
are
It is
A—B,
shown here
onepiece sleeve at the bottom,
tlie
that
is,
is
the dis
upper x.
sleeve, to
which
shirt waist sleeve
is
—
r.
give the
we must correct arm
but
the same distance from s as
which may be gathered
at
the
shorter for an attached cuff.
now prepared
The construction of garment.
For a
of
tlie
fit
a higher cut garment.
to
collar
We
consider the construction of different styles of collar
a
Construction
which
always depends upon the cutout or lapel will
fit
perfectly a low cut neck, will never
must therefore always consider how deep or high
the cutout of our garment will be. in order to
we
upper
the part beyond curve a
to the
Collar
We
can be placed
r.
connected with
have now a onepiece
liottom
e
in eitlier of these styles.
bottom width of upper and under sleeve together;
In the undersleeve
measure.
and
s
and our fundamental upper and
to be used only as the dividing line of the
is
equal to
r.
A—B,
c
points
are respectively 34 inches from the center line.
The
to
made
tlie
lines.
Tlie points
and
line
is
distance of
The point
Si inches.
is
the sleeve
if
tlie
shall see in the
accompanying
make
a perfect fitting collar, as
figures.
Fig. 59 illustrates the formation of different collars, suitable for shirt waists
and
dresses.
The front and back pieces of the fundamental pattern have been
placed shoulder to shoulder for the construction of onr collars.
PARISIAN
o
n
m c n m
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
47
PARISIAN
48
In the front pattern the line
neck, and the sluuled
form a
from
Now
lapel.
b to
from g
lines,
= = ==
—
—
we
tluit
to
along
in
1
to
f
neck
the
and
lines
the
of
cutout
to
1
—
a
b,
the center
e,
Another can be traced from lines,
and
lines,
d to
in
i
cutout
either eut otf or bent back to
is
see one collar pattern.
from
lines,
pointed
I'epresents tlie
1)
triangle that part
in
lines,
in
f
._.
a
following the neck rounding,
b to g in
back, in
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
from
in
e
to
i
lines.
another follows the curve
Still
l.i
—
=
= = =
<1
and
e
to
e
in
c
lines.
however, the turn back lapel
If.
shaped
in
point
the lines
of this
and
We
front.
tlie
to
lines
in
same
to c along the
i
the collar must be dififerently
desired,
is
notice one that, including the lapel in front, follows
then proceeds from
f,
one
lines as
of
the
f
to
in
i
previously
collars
con
sidered.
A
differently shaped one starts
and up
to
and
i
and one
c
from the lapel point

in
lines to
t
—
to
in
f
and from
e
to
e
the
c,
center bar!;. Fig. 60
neck
shows us more plainly that a
never
will
We
fit
From pointed to
d.
there
style follows a in
no extra
^ ^^^
see a
—
is
we make
one
is
shawl collar rounded
i,
and
•
in
collar
a
and
from
a to the
through
lines to k,
A
A
the back or
in
lines
to
to the point,
Here
e.
also
lines to c
1i
lines to
in
lines to
in
1)
1
j.
—g
and
f.
and from
fit
j
point of the shaded to
h,
i
to
and from
we cannot
e,
fail
to
a high neck.
—— e
over
lapel,
f,
and
i,
in :::::::: lines to d,
is
shown
we have
in
a collar with
from there
to
j,
lines.
Start
many
points.
and then
in
1.
smalliM collar
lines to r
b in
= = =:=
show another from b
lines to
bent
is
e.
In Fig. 61 the neck cutout from a to b
We
which
necessary.
extending from
seen
observe that this collar will not
in
to b,
a
and then proceeds along the lapel
b.
lines to
lines to h
there in
ing at b
from
lines, if desiied.
another shape ean be ti'aeed from
in
If
high cut
a
fits
lapel.
dif'fci'eiit
Still
we
c,
In this case no lapel
Another
A
to
in
1)
and from there is
which perfectly
notice in this figure a very low neck cut
over for the lapel, as indicated in shaded
there
collar
a lower eutout, or visa versa.
and
collar
can be traced from b
in
==•=•=
to c
and
in
n.
rounded lines
in front
and square
in the liack is
over the rounding to h and
1.
shown starting from
PARISIAN
Fig.62
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
POCKETS
Reduced to One Fourth
49
— PARISIAN
50
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES"
Pockets lu
Fig'.
62
we
give several styles of pockets, and iu the lowest
row three
different styles of pocket laps.
In the
row we
first
see the finished pockets
a,
b and
c,
and below,
indi
cated by the same letters, the patterns for these pockets. The little rounding at tlu' top of tlie finislied pockets we can easily make ))y cutting, as .shown in the un
But we can
finished pocket.
also
make
the same straight along
tlie
top, if
we
so
desire.
and
d. e
f
are finished pockets, and below, designated by the same letters,
The finished pocket show the place of gathering.
are patterns for the same. lines in the pattern
In Fig. 62A
we
belongs iu the jacket,
see
how we
e
is
gathered, and the ====
find the position of the pocket, that
is
where
it
skirt, or dress.
lines full lines Fig. 62A shows us a front of a jacket, and in point the higliest of the arndiall with to pattern placed upper sleeve an we see seam. shoulder front of our point the lowest
In
The pocket full
is
then placed about two (2) inches above the lower end of the
length sleeve.
Cuffs and Sleeves In Fig. 63
we again show
and
different sleeves
strate the cutting of a onepiece sleeve
from
a
cuffs,
and again demon
twopiece one.
—b —
e, and d, show us four sleeves in one piece (as shown used here are constructed as shown in cuff's a b d. The The b and c, in the figure. cuff' are cut respectively as a construction lines E T R. from the lower to the upper cut. are one (1) inch apart to give the necessary fiare needed, so that the upper cuff should not lie flat over the lower one.
In this figure, a
The upper the tops of in Fig. 58).
p^lo.
e
lines
—
——
— gg—h ——
tion under e
——
cuff's
h.
shows three Tlie
and the upper sleeve
dift'erent cuff's, of
uudersleeve in in
full lines.
which we show the construc
pattern
this
is
marked
Tlie sleeves are placed
in
with under arm
—
The same patin full lines is the pattern for cuff' e. seams joining. Cuff' g for cuff iu li, is used h. In the shown e as the top, at tern, but pointed This lines, is the pattern for in partly and g. full in same figure, partly under and therefore extends from sleeve of the center the cuff has its seam in
—
F
to
F
beyond.
The construction
of sleeve
The dotted curves from bell
r to
f— i—k s,
su])ply
through tlie
i
—i—
k.
A — B.
show the required shape for added to our upper sleeve three (3) tucks shown iu f.
and k. about identical with Fig. the same way as sleeve f.
Sleeves sleeve in
illustrated iu Fig. f
The heavy dotted
shaped portion of sleeve tlie extra width necessary to make f.
is
lines
57,
are widened in the upper
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
51
PARISIAN
52
The Cutting
A
cau be made
skii't
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
of a Circular Skirt Pattern
more
in one, two, three or
width of the
pieces, but tlie
bottom depends npon prevailing fashion.
we
First
endeavor to show how to cut
will
Remember
a
circular skirt.
are cut and rcuieasured in inches, as taken on the
all skirts
that
pattern for
a
model for wliom they are intended.
We structed,
have shown previously in Fig. 12 and
and we
the thumb
we had made
recall that
of the left hand,
forming the
this
13,
how
the waist line
is
con
with a piece of thread held with
and a pointed pencil
looped
througli
thread
the
arc.
—
On
in Fig. 64.
A—
line
point a eighteen
Seven
inches from point A.
(18)
the starting point of the
Next holding the
—C as shown
we form the perpendicular A B to A B mark point x 2 inches from A. On line
Witli the tailors' square
(7)
A— C
inches from
a,
mark mark f,
liip line.
tliread circle
maker
mark
point of the pencil start at a and
We
—
oft'
at x, Avith the left
arc a
—
e
thumb, with the
for the waist line.
Form
the
next proceed to build our pattern from the
g in the same manner. f measurement of the model previously taken.
hip line
In Fig. 64 our model measurements are used.
Length of
skirt.
:;{6
inches in front.
Lengtli of side. 36^ inches. (13 inches onelialf of
Waist measure, 26 inches.
measure).
of back, 37 inches.
Length
Hip measure, 40
From
tlie
a
along a
(20 inches onclialf of the measure).
inches.
—C
measure the front length of
tlie
skirt
(36
inches
in
the figure.)
P^rom
measure f.
mark
a, in
(i:> oft'
a curve along
tlie
inches in the figure
"i.
waist
line,
measure onehalf around the waist
marking the point
e.
Along
tlu'
hip line from
at g onedialf of the hip measure (20 inches in the figure).
The point
c,
line, as this line is
eciiiidistant
invariably
and
marks the starting point
from
a,
lialf
way between
e,
tlie
of our side
center front and the center
back.
As we
We
liave licfore mentioned, the skirt
use for our model here
lati'r
show how
this
may
a
widths vary with fashion's dictates.
bottom width of two and onehalf (24) yards, and
be increased or diminished.
From C which marks
the length of the skirt at the center front, measure
along a slight curve a distance of 22} inches, or onehalf the width of the half skirt,
marking the point
n.
From n
in this
way
rei^eat this
measurement
to
i.
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSTEM
53
— TAILORING SYSTEM
PARISIAN LADIES'
54 Connect line
with
e
and
n,
and center
and
e
our
liack of
g
witli
Tliese lines give us respectively the side
i.
Along
skirt.
the
si<lc
mark
lini'
distance equal
off a
to tile side length
measurement of the model (here
back measure
the reqiiired length of back for the model (37 inches in figure).
oft'
Be careful
remeasure
to
Now draw
secure accuracy.
to
connecting the points marked to form the bottom sweep of the
As
The
we must allow
patterns are without seams,
all
make an extra allowance
seams, and
finished skirt
same, we will find
Above
line,
shown
is
in Fig.
we
and liottom for the hem.
The pockets, should we desire the
(if).
notice yoke patterns in
and the other pointed
exactly to the rounding of our waist
the
in
and
line,
fit
skirt, differently constructed,
to a, along
A — C,
and from
a,
A — P>
These yokes
front.
back of the
we
In Fig. 66
to
A
made mark
the point just
are
cut
if
oft'
be
will
skirt,
same circular
see the
A we
Fiom
('.
circular
is
smoothly to the body.
but giving us the same results
have the perpendicular
One
lines.
Furtlicr necessary explanation relative to the
given in the discussion following Fig. 66.
We
an inch for these
of
§
the bottom curve,
skirt.
Fig. 62.
64,
P'ig.
with the waist
in
at the top
Along the center
inches).
''iGl
compared.
measure four inches
C
at
equal
a distance
to the length of the front.
Next from
half around the waist measure lines,
As same
the width of this skirt
c,
measure on
o,
make tills
is
On
a
line
identical
c.
two
a
—
e
with
o.
witJi
side,
that
of Fig.
of back
our method
65.
and lower sweep
a perpeiidii'ular 2 inches to
the
is
Connect a and
c.
between
tlie
back at the waist
line,
possible
to is
by
r
and
s
marking the length of
at the
made
line.
If the skirt
make
the skirt narrower.
is
shown meeting the waist
l)ottoin
in
the hip
line on(>half of
made exactly
l:!
(^) of an inch at
e.
inches,
fit.
in
Tims we
by the cutout of one
line. o,
c,
n,
we
see
of the skirt, meeting one an
This triangle shows the part to be eliminated parts, in order to insure a perfect
necessary
In Fig. 66 below
side
two parts these
From
is
it
and the heavy
dotted
line
e
line.
in in the center
either side of the
small triangle
is
V
lines nuirked
is
Connect
small cutout from the straiglit length of the back.
indicated as a
other at the hip
of
is
this
with a curve to form the waist
As the body curves
the
a distance equal to one
e
as previously given.
through
to
off at
(13 inches in the illustration).
and mark the center of
Fr(un point
it
mark
procedure to secure propi'r length of
of
e,
A —B
slant along
a. in a
(1)
to
an
lines indicate
the
incli
waist
inch at
c,
line,
a
on either side
case the skirt
find that our
how
is
made
in
curved waist
and of onehalf
PARISIAN Both of our
illustrations 64
and 66 could be cut
cut in one piece, the lengtli of front cut in
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
is
placed on
the
in
fold
55
one or two pieces. of
the
nuiterial.
If If
two pieces, both front and back are placed on the fold and as a result
the two bias pieces meet at the sides.
Care must be taken
to
tape both of these
seams, to prevent sagging of the material. Fig.
H
shows
a belt in the
shapes are marked in
and
heavy
lines.
lines.
Two
yokes
in
different
These are formed ou the same
principle as Fig. 66.
Fig.
sFig.66
pointed
PARISIAN
56
The Cutting "We
In order to be able to divide
])lrated skirt.
we must
]iioportions
Gored and Pleated
of the
decide upon
widths of our gores in proper
tlie
width of the skirt ai'ound
tlie
Pig. 67 sliows a fourgorinl skirt measuring
around
two and
bottom.
tlu=
oneludf
they are cut from nuiterial
Tlie gores slunv
Ixittom.
tin'
Skirt
thv desiguiny and cutting of the gored skirt, and the
lU'iiioustratc
iK.'xt
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
.')()
inches wide.
This skirt consists of a front piece cut on the fold, a side part, and
The same
part cut on the fold.
We from our
mention again that
in cutting the goods.
Fi'om
apart.
6SA shows
Fig,
A— C
along liue
measure
s
ofl the
A—C
From half of
A—B,
mark points
e
—r—
s,
threefourth (f ) of an inch
length of the front along
A— C
to
this
line
From
the
measure
J
('.
C"
unvisure 16 inches to
bottdiii
tlir
from measurenu'nts taken
perpendicular to
dotted auxiliary line (36 inches in the illustration). of an inch to
back
gathered.
skirt patterns are cut
all
a
and are without seam or hem allowance, which must be added
figure,
From A
sliglitly
is
yards
(2i)
on the auxiliary
i
width of the front gore,
as
Tins gives us the
liue.
center front
tlie
is
on the
laid
fold of the material.
A— B
Along
From
i
—o
curved
along
B shows m — n
and li inches
and from g to
fiom
to
H
are
make
From
waist
liiu'
h to
(^'oiuiect
h
—k a
ferent gores
4.^
AVe notice that fi'om u.
We
the rounding u E,
Connect o and
o.
Connect
s
E
The waist
i.
with a
line s
to<
A — C,
g and 'S
Measure 16 inches from n
The
j.
from
cutouts
inches together.
m
to
E
,i
E
to
Thus our waist
parallel to
A — B,
The bottom is
liue
This width
back gore.
If
we add
from k
line
to
1
is
made, which leaves 12} inches
we gather tlie
to
onethird,
which
waist measures of the dif
inches, plus 4i inches, plus 4 inches, our total half waist
13 inches, which we
made
inches.
1^
cutout of 11 inches
gives us a waist measure of 4 inches.
is
marking point
inches.
t.
of the
parallel
inches each, or
4,^
C shows
Fig. 6S,
tlie
E
to g,
ni
E measures
14 inches. for
A
a distance of
inches.
Fig. 6S,
from E
E
in to
Fi'om the hip point u
line,
measui'e 4^
nu^asure 6 inches from
measure
r
measure
find correct for this model, all
This point
our cutouts at the waist is
line in Fig,
68
A—B— C
are
the hip liue 7 inches below the Avaist line.
ol)serve also that the
bottom of gores
auxiliary lines, and the Imck gore
is
left straight
A
and B are rounded
on the bottom.
to
the
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
57
t/in^
From E To 11 Same as From e To j 
.
X m a
c n
Length
of Sides
..sy. CR
FROMt TO l^ SAME AS FROM ETO
j

n
CENTER
Length of Back
on
^a
PARISIAN
58
A— B — C
Tlie sides of patterns
shown
are the same length as

The
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
in
B
lines in
marked
are
to sliow joining seams, wliich
the figures.
which we remeasure the
indicate the line along
length of side.
The short Fig. 69
parallel lines in
C
indicate gathers.
shows us practically the saun'
that Fig. 67
and 68 gave a fourgored
This change
is
partly due to fashion and jiartly to
this
A—B
A
and the lengths from
The bottom of the front and back gores.
m
to C,
A— C
to
skirt
and
to n, x to
is
2:i
tJie
li
A
to e
—— r
s,
unchanged.
to k, aiT
yards wide, there being 20 inches each
the side gores (the two in the pattern are cut double
is
jiiecing.
and 10
of whicli are laid on folds,
l>otli
six gores.
in
that the material
measurements from
anil
a,
skirt
a
is
fact
thi'
too narrow to permit cutting a wider pattern without
The perpendicular
oidy difference being
skirt, the
etit'ect
whereas
skirt,
in
each of
inclu'S in
we must remember).
This
gives us a total of SO inches, about 2j yards for the bottom of the skirt.
At
the top of Fig. 70. A, from
inches, in C,
from x
to z 6 inches,
A
and
— u — E. g — u — E. m — u — E. x — u — E. Adding the
width.
front
to
o
is
4 inches,
in T). fi'om h to
z^u — E and
and side waist
h
B
10 inches.
—u —
t
line nn_asurements
m
from
B,
in
g 6
to
The cutouts
are each 1] inches in
we
get 9 inches.
This
plus the back gore gathered to four inches, gives IS inches for half of the waist
measurement. Further
we
Ave
observe the
from
lines
foIloAv sliould Ml desire to leave out the
w
to
gathering
in
k,
pattern
in
the
D.
back, and
which
make
a
fitting back.
Fig. 71
shows
a
plaited skirt.
There plaits can be made closer together
or farther apart as desired. Fig. 72
from
A
to
B
gives a pattern of a plain plaited skirt.
front fold forms a box plait, with the plaits on both sides facing Fig. 73
shows
l)ox
plaits wiiich can
lie
jilaced
closei'
oi
The center back.
tin
farther
apart
as
desired.
In the next few lessons
we
will
show how
to
diangc
waist pattern, to one witli seams running to the shouldiT botli
We
will also
endeavor
to
ing different skirts and waists.
show how
to
make
our
fundamental
in front
a variety of dresses
and back.
by combin
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
59
From J^ To t Same as From EToC
Cente â€ž
Length of Back
on Fold
D3
60
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
anod NO
PQ
>i3j.Na3
\....
.
X h X
o
u z
CO
bJDa
bJD
U
N
anoj NO
d3i.N30
<
2

c/i
PARISIAN
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
Changes from the Fundamental Pattern to a Pattern Seamed Front and Back
61
to the
Shoulder
in
and a waists with seams These seams take the place of the usual dart, and extend entirely to the shoulder, thereby giving a longer line effect. Fig. 76 shows a skirt with a yoke pointed in front,
to the shoulder both in front
and back.
Fig. 74 shows the perpendicular
A—B
to
A— C,
tern in full lines, the former basque front in line of the dart in
lines
from
lines
i
—
Then draAv the
a
—
e,
and the front
j.
From point on the shoulder line, Avhieh width distant from the armhole, connect i j in line.
the fundamental waist pat
slightly bov.'shaped line
i
is
two unit parts of our lines
—
j,
in full lines, so that o is one
half (i) of an inch to tlic left of the eonsti'uction line. dart with a slight rounding.
Cutting along the full lines we have with seams reaching to the shoulder.
now
scale of
for a construction
Connect o and the second
divided our front into two pieces
Fig. 75 illustrates the formation of a back pattern with seams reaching
from
the waist to the shoulder.
The fiuidamental shirt waist back connected with side part pattern is shown in full lines. The line t s is the basque back, originally made. lines indicate the joining of side and back of the original basque The to from the onepiece shirt waist back.
—
—
From
two unit parts of the scale of width lines. Next draw the full line h g, curved about onehalf (1) of an inch slightly to the right. Connect the former side lines with this line, as high up as it formerly reached in the arm rounding. Cutting along this line will give ns a twopiece back with a seam from the shoulder point h on the shoulder
from the armhole, draw h
—g
line,
—
in
to the waist.
In both Fig. 74 and 75 the waist extends only to the waist
add about two inches and to finish neatly.
As mentioned of buttons
before
and button
line.
to this length in order to properly connect waist
we must allow
holes, in the front
for all seams.
We and
must .skirt,
For the proper lapping
we must have an
additional allowance
or provide a separate piece for facing.
We
must
also
mention here that the point of the cutout of the neck,
is
invariably the point where the collar starts.
In Fig. 77
we
shoAV a dress Avith yoke in front and back, and plaited both in
front and back below the yoke.
made from
This
is
and bodice The bodice and skirt are
a combination plaited skirt,
a shirt Avaist pattern, Avith collar as desired.
joined at the Avaist line to the belt of the skirt.
and shirt Avaist. extended to the desired length. The around the Avaist line, and ties in front. Fig. 79 is a dress made from a shirt Avaist pattern and a plain skirt joined at the Avaist line. The belt ties in front, and a pocket is placed on the right side. Fig. 80 is also a combination of a simple shirtAvaist and a plain skirt. It is made Avith a belt pointed in front and can have any desired collar shoAATi in Fig. 78
is
a plain skirt
belt reaches twice
Figs. 59, 60,
6L
PARISIAN
62
CQ
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSTEM
63
64
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Arranging the Fundamental Pattern for
Suits,
Jackets and Outer Garments
In this As wo all know a ladies' suit consists of a skirt and jacket. chapter we will consider the changes necessary to plan a suit using our fundamental pattern. Our shirtwaist pattern as previously shown, will give any kind of loose jacket with plaits or shirrings in front, or in the back, or in both of these parts. In Fig. Si we give a jacket of a suit, which resembles Fig. 74, the only difference being that the pattern in Fig 74 is constructed only to the waist line, while Fig. 81 is made to the hip line. All explanations and measurements are the same as previously given.
A
REDUCED TO ONE FOURTH
C o
c O
111
C
•
PARISIAN
We
notice also in Pig. 81 a piece
of the front part, but
from
A
to
lAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
C
is
only
2iV
marked front facing, wliicli is a dnplicate To this we must make all additions
inches wide.
as exijlained with reference to the front in Fig. 74.
Fig. 82 shows ns the side and back part put together the 75,
65
but instead of drafting the pattern to the waist
we
line,
same
as in Fig.
continue
to the
it
hip line. In Fig. 75 the side part, as
and the Avidth the back from h to line,
we
extends from h to
notice,
of the back at the Avaist line t is
just as wide as
from g
from g
to
r,
the
at
z
that
waist
to say, that
is
to r with a little curving in be
tween.
u
B
A
We
notice in Fig. 82 the
construction
The point t
1
—
line connecting h 1. could be brought either
to the iight or left
without
l^osition.
of
its
of the pattern.
smaller at the waist
—
1
back
at
—
line.
x.
our cutout,
From
z.
tlie
making our back
line thus
The distance
shape
position deter
Its
mines the narroAvness of
equal to g
present
aft'ecting the
draw
x
is
the
—
heavy curve parallel to z h meeting the back about at the same height as formerly, and forming a new side line which folloAvs the exact curve of the other, x and 1
are connected with
w
at
the hip
line.
We
notice noAV that the pattern
broad across the shoulder blade in the back and curves in to a narrow waist line. Through this change the side part is Avider than formerly.
is
Fig. 81 and 82 shoAV a jacket seamed from the slioulder both in front and back, extending to the liip This in line, or any length desired.
coiniection Avith a skirt gi\'es us a tAvopiece cuffs,
suit.
and suitable
cordance made.
Avith
Sleeves,
pockets,
collar, are in ac
explanation previous
ly
Hyp
w Reduced to One Fourtfh
ine
Before Ave jDroceed any further,
C
hoAvcA'er, Ave Avill consider the
ing of tailormade collars.
mak
— PARISIAN
66
The Cutting
in
In a
and
there are two sets of
li
The length
of these lines
how
see in the pattern In
wr
a.
the collar
a
and
rounded,
is
b
have the same measurements.
lines in each set h'ligtli
made
is
i of
is
of the collar,
an inch.
namely
60 inches.
around them.
shap(Ml
is
that a rounding
notici'
that
auxiliary lines placed two inches
the half
is
except
notice, they
Otlierwise. as
The distance between the two
apart.
We
we
I'ront.
pointed or roniided top.
a
M"itli
diagrams a and b are the same
Tile
pointed
Collars for Tailored Suits and Cloaks
of
83 "we see a standing collar
Fig'.
111
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
front and in
in
that
b,
:,'
of an
inch on each half collar has been a(bled in front for buttons and buttonholes. Fig. d
and
Diagrams is
sliow a poinfrd and
i
roundi'd collar.
a
and d explain how these are made.
c
The center
line
2i inches from the base, and the top 2 inches from this center line.
The rounded upper cutout
connected
is
Avitli
the upper curve of the stand
ing collar, and as botli are the same width, they will
fit
exactly leaving the extra
allowance free for buttons and Intttonholes.
Diagram
presents a front with a
e,
we
In full lines
lines.
in
how
see
and
la]iel
a
tailored turndown
collar
the collar appears turned over in po
sition.
In
we
liiiis
extra front facing must also
For
collar pattern
A— 0,
of an inch below
half
way
between E and A:
At
O and
tli(>
correct shape fold
part a
is
drawn
and
51
in
tlic
—A
s]lo^^•n
collar in
pieces.
however, the collar
If
is
N
placed
on line
—A
meeting
The
ioljar.
D, with eur\'cs as
U
J
li inches above
inches to the left of A. Point
notice a triangular cut whi<h
two
Line
A—
paralbd to
From N draw curve N
O and we
S^ inehes long.
line I)
gives the bend of
liardv
made
A—O
line it,
garment.
is
half
U
is
way
completed by
the figure. gives the collar the is
cut in one, on a
— A — U, the lower portion N — A V must be pressed in. while tlie upper X — O — D — A must be strrtcheil. to secure the jiroper rounding needed for
at 1)
good
tit.
Fig.
f,
In the
shows the same coat with
working diagram
J inches below
same
tliis
T. and
center if
draw
and E.
lietweeii
connecting
e,
cut for the
lie
parallel to
The perpendicular E
it.
An
see an allowance oi 11 inehes for lapping in front.
as in Fig.
— A, e,
inch from the top.
and
D
f,
A— O
shawl
a is
Ti inehes above
previously shown.
eollar.
10' inches long,
The curve O
The same principle applies
E
5i inches from A.
The lower curve on
it.
—D
to the
the center back as previously explained for Fig.
e.
crosses line
E
is
U
the
about
J
shaping of this eollar at
PARISIAN
Fig. 8 3
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
COLLARS.
Reduced to One Fourth
67
PARISIAN
68
In diagiain
g.
Ave
Diagram
shows
h,
we have added The
pointed lapel.
must not omit
A
as
diagram
a piece at the neck collar
shows
a suit coat.
turneddown
same
the
iis
collar as exijlaiued in
same
the
is
as in
order to
is
see in
lines
and
longer
a
more
correspond with
it
we
h.
IS inches long which can also be
turned
has
back
and
cufifs.
high
collar.
84 F, shows the fundamental front
There
get
to
In cutting our front facing
e.
make
and
tight fitting
we
but
e,
cutout.
a tailormade jacket,
It is
except that here
e,
rounded.
is
this extra piece, in
Fig. 84,
used for
same
see the
the lapel as well as the collar
that
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
also a
with
'lattern
darts
in
lines.
marking the seamed front from the dart
line
lines
to
Either front can be used for the pattern.
shoulder.
The cutout
for the
G
side,
neck
the fi'ont
in
always the starting point of the
is
collar.
shows thr
and
II tin'
back of the fundamental pattern
in
lines.
TIu' waist
with
lini' in
F— G and
II is
marked with
lines,
and the hip
lines.
Along wide for the
slit
if
H
we notice below we intend to make one.
center back in
tlie
All parts of Fig. 84
F
one and onehalf (II) inch
—G
and
in front
the waist line a tlap one inch
are without scams which
II
we must add:
and an extra facing as explained
in Fig.
81
being needed.
R
and
N
are the patterns of the twopiece sleeve used in this jacket.
Fig. 85 shows an ISinch jacket semiiltting in back and loose in front.
N
is
F— G and
and
a pattern of a front facing,
pattern to the waist line in
lines
with
show the fundamental
II
collar
and
lapel
likewise
so
marked.
F
shows
tile
right angle cutting through the starting point of the collar
and the extra inch and onehalf added from the fundamental pattern
to the iiei'iiendicular
with previously given patterns,
shown
As the distance
in front.
we
readily
is
how we
see
of
also allowed in secui'e
the
two
inches,
accordance loose
front
A.
in
In II the back piece, the
same allowance of two inches
at
the Avaist line,
which has previously lieen explained, gives the looser back.
D lieen
is
a pocket.
O
a enlf,
and
previously explained in Fig. Fig. 86,
A
R
a collar,
8.3
shows a loose jacket
tlie
belt
and pockets.
liave
e.
to be
used either for a suit or coat.
18 inches long, extending 10 inclies below the
made with
measurements for which
waist
line.
Our
It
is
illustration
is
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
/
I
N
R /
'
/
/
;
/
/
/
/ /
/ /
/
Fig. 84
•• I
I
' )
\
;
\
/
/
\
.
]•
y
69
* I
I
Reduced to One Sixth
PARISIAN
70
We lines
and
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
see in
F and 6
the fundamental pattern to the waist line in
as this
garment
is
we have added two
cut on the order of a waist,
and
for buttons
liuttonholes.
The tailored
show how
lapel
and
the neck
collar begin at
cutout; the
from the armliole
have allowed one unit part
down the length of this garment as exjilaiucd in former we have made the seamed front, F and G must each be cut
H which
D
and
H
lines in is
lines
these look Avhen finished.
G we
In
(2)
and an extra allowance
unit parts of our scale of Avidth at the waist line in front
the
waist
line,
and as
constructions separately.
seam from the shoulder, and the
are also separated by the
show the allowance necessary
to
conform with the waist pattern.
to
D,
a straight back, should be cut on the fold at the center back.
R
In
and
the allowance of
N
the upper and nndersleeve patterns,
seam made
of an inch on each

we
notice in
lines
upper parts of the sleeve
in the
to conform with the allowance in the armhole of the side piece.
Fig. 87, coat.
A
shows
a semifitting jacket
The front and back are seamed
which could shoulder,
to the
also
be used for a suit
and the pointed
lapel is
larger than previously shown.
F
In
At the neek in
width
is
lines
in
marked by
the fundanu'ntal pattern to the waist line.
and larger
either sqiiare or
rounded as
F and G
shows the regular pattern, and both
cated by the seam In 11 and
from the
lines slanting in
The bottom front can be cut
G
we have
cutout, the addition for the pointinl
an inch
lapel, I of
collar to the waist line.
illustrated.
are cut separately as indi
in the front.
the
I
show
lines
the construction of the l)aek narrowed
in
side at
and
liack pattern joined
and also
the waist line.
AVe see also the upper and under sleeves of the regular fundamental pattern and a small replica of the tailormade collar, the measurements and the construction of which are given in Fig. 83
e.
The pattern for the upper and lower parts
of the twopiece sleeve
is
also
given. Fig. SS shows a double brea.sted jacket
with a plain turneddown collar
of the standing collar of Fig.SU
and the turneddown portion of
composed
In
Fig. 83 d. tern.
N
F
lines to tlu' waist line
in
to the
h.
lines
we have
the fundamental pat
shows the usual addition from the
The distance between these
lines
and the
line
collar jjoint a.
marks an addi
tional allowance of 2^ inches for the doublebreasted effect.
N shown
in
is
cut in one piece with F.
Fig. 81
must
also be
made.
6
is
If
cut tlie
separately.
A
doublebreasted
front effect
facing is
the additioiud allowance of 2h inches as previously explained must also be to the facing.
as
desired
made
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
1
D
71
72
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Reduced to One Sixth
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSTEM
73
PARISIAN
74
II
and
again show the fundamental patterns phieed
I
positions in
but each of these parts
lines,
the
liy
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
tlieir
relatively
lines.
Furthermore we notice from the waistline downward extra allowance of waist
in
cut separately as indicated
is
inches outlined Avith
2^
lines
shown
for a ripple or flare in the back as
line,
in
F,
H
slanting
in Fig. B,
should
and from
we
an
I
the
desire
the same.
Any
of the patterns formerly
shown could
Vie
used for a garment of any
length by simply prolonging the pattern to the length desired.
F
Fig. 89.
and
cuffs
shows
down
long cloak with turned
a
collar, large pockets,
deep
belt.
A
The diagrams
and T show
fundamental pattern to the waist
and
line
in
line,
and
in
heavy
in
the
line
lines the usual addition
from
the ai'mhole to the waist at the side.
From A
the neck point
A
front piece
is
G
24 inches from
and
cvit
is
is
and
cut separately,
from the second dart downward
We
T extends
see tliat
The lower
see the addition to the front to G.
is
distance between the
The
l)ottom.
T
H.
to
we
in one with the front waist, and measures along the bottom
is
15 inches wide both at the top
and
lines
in
lines
above the
i inch
Avaist line,
and that
J
of an inch
allowed on the fundamental waist pattern from the second dart down.
allowances are for seams.
The short
These
â€˘
along
lines
the
the allowance for the seam.
Râ€”
indicate that this part should be gathei'ed to
the width of the front side piece. In
C we
see in one piece
marked
in
lines,
the back and side with
the addition at the waist line as in the shirtwaist pattern, and also with the ad
from the armhole to the waist along the side. This pattern is cut on the and measures 21 inches along the bottom from T to V. E and N lines tin:' adfundamental sleeve in fidl lines, and in regular show the dition
fold as shown,
made
dition
The
to
fit
the enlarged armhole.
= = ===
mark
lines
a length of
48
from the neck, the
inches
full
length of pattern being 54 inches.
The and 83
d.
In at
the
collar of this coat could be cut in
or after pattern
H
we have
a
two pieces according
to Figs. S3
b
II Pig. 89.
onepiece turned
respective distances of 2^ and
down
F and E
collar.
are parallel to S
3^ inches.
connected as shown in the figure. F perpendiculars are drawn to E of an inch from each end P'rom points The the correct collar measurement. long lines, making E 131 inches in R and
F
are each 15 inches long and
of
'[
lines
extra pieces liutton
;
from
F
to
E show
a possible
and buttonholes.
for
cut
of an inch on each side between
F
and
collar
a S.
if
desired.
The
serve as allowances for
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
75
76
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
PARISIAN
LADIES
TAILORING SYSTEM
77
PARISIAN
78
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
The bottom curve below S gives a better
collar
fitting
and allows
freer
a
ueck movement.
We
could cut this coat in a different
could be cut to the waist line and to
G
entire
upper portion
lower portion to R, and the part from
tlie
H
could also be separate pieces.
R
Fig. 90.
shows a doublebreasted coat with pockets,
standing collar to which a sailor collar
F
We
The
fashion.
cuffs,
in
have also the regular fundamental pattern with the addition
lar addition
cutout,
we
notice in
lines
lines.
to the waist line.
along the length the regu
buttons and buttonholes, and in full lines 2J inches from
foi
a
attached.
is
shows the front facing, and S and O the two pieces
At the neck
and
belt
C
to
R
the addition for the doublebreasted coat.
The upper waist portion and the lower part
extended below the waist
is
extended above the waist
tions are necessary for the
E
to
line,
â€”
additional piece measures 6 inches at the top from
P
The back and
L
is
tlie
We
to
S,
These two addi
S.
E
R
to P.
AVhile the
S and lOJ inches along
to
fundamental pattern
They extend
in
i inch
lines.
below the waist
allowance for the seam.
cut on the fold i of an inch higher than the waist line to allow for
The bottom from L
the seam.
to the
side parts are cut together.
being
E
to C.
Diagram Y shows the addition line, this
from
seam allowance.
The garment measures 251 inches along the bottom from the liottom from
line
notice that
L
is
F
to
gathered
measures 25 inches. at the
top from the center of the back to
the center ]iack seam. ]M
and
show the regular
I
for the wider armluile in
This coat
is
R
lines.
36 inches from the waist to the bottom, or 54 inches through
the entire front length. Fig. 91.
The
:=^==
Hues are 6 inches from the bottom.
shows a singlebreasted coat seamed
back with lapel and tailormade
E shows
and the addition
sleeves in full lines
collar,
and attached
L and G
the front facing and
tlie
to
shoulder in front and
cuffs.
two pieces of the
front,
the
addition in front being allowed for buttons and buttonholes.
N
is
the side part, and the back, whieli
is
cut on the fold as indicated,
is
marked A.
where
m
d.
b and
In
all five
show
the construction of the cuff.
pieces of this pattern
to cut this pattern, should
length being 54 inches.
we
we
notice the
desire
a
42ineli
lines wliich indicate
length
coat,
the
whole
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
m
Front
Facing
79
80
PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
PARISIAN
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
Along the bottom the widths are
L
M
to
F
Thns the half width of
sweep of the coat Fig. 92,
front facing,
G
The length of
=^==
but
lines,
made
L
this
15 inches,
garment
this coat
A
is
could be
54 inches
We
15 inches, from
and the back from E
to
measure 54 inches, and the
The
made any length is
as follows
A
from
lines lines
H
the
is
and E the seamed side and back
the bottom,
to
to R,
one
mark
still
or 48
inches
to
the
0,
164
desired.
F
from
inches
16^
:
and 10 inches from S
and b show the regular fundamental
back, and the
L
cut on the fold.
is
to C, 13 inches
lapel collar.
will
to
in doublebreasted effect.
the seamed front parts,
which
it
From R
:
will be 3 yards.
The width of the bottom inches from
T
to
shows about the same coat
T and R
pieces, the latter of
a
A
16 inches, the side part from
7 inches.
Avhole
as follows
81
sleeve,
and
c
the
to
to B.
regular
tailor
and wider
a collar deeper in front
in
wider both in front and back.
again wish to impress the fact that
all
our patterns are made without
seams, and these therefore must be allowed for either in cutting the pattern or in cutting the material. f of an inch allowance should be stated.
the front, f of an inch
made
is
required.
for (if
all
seams
cut in
unless
otherwise
two pieces) and along
Along the front an extra allowance must be
for facing.
When to
made
At the shoulders, the back center seam
make an
heavy weight material
is
used for jackets and
"coats,
it
is
necessary
additional allowance of ^ of an inch at all seams to take care of the
extra bulk of material.
PARISIAN
82
The
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
Cutting of All Kinds of Capes According the Fundamental Pattern
Fig. 9o, Fig.
W
shows us a cape wiiich we can make any desired length.
93 shows in
lines
pattern laid along A — B and A — C.
the front
These
and back of the fundamental
lines are
made with
the tailors' square
perpendictdar to each other as previously explained.
A
B
Fig. 93
,i4
OQ
1^— ^
s
'
\
I
•.
I
I
\
Front
'\
REDUCED TO One fourth
Vd
PARISIAN
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
—
83
The front neck cutout is placed along A C in such a way, that tlie waist is two unit parts of the scale of width from A C. Tlie shouhler line of tile back meets the shoulder line of the front at its lowest point, and the neck cutout of the back lies along A B in such a position that the waist line u is two unit parts of the scale of width from A B.
—
d
line
—
—
We next connect a, the highest point of the front shoulder line with
c,
the
highest point of the side
armhole ;
«N
to
Fig.
94
and
\
for remeasuring
length
\ \
line
This gives us a side
e.
line
;/
line
in Fig. 93,
prolong this
"^^
'N,
in
shown
as
desired
for
the
the
cape.
\
\
From tlie neck cutout of botli front and back we
\
now mark
\
off the lengths
desired by a circular line
passing thiough the side line
o(.
connecting front and
\
\
back, Avhich will give us the bottom of the cape
V
rounding. I
I
The cape shown in tliis is seamed along the shoulder as we notice by the V cut between front and back shoulder seams. figure
/
Front
/
/
/ /
\
/
/
/ ,
/
REDUCED TO ONE SIXTH
9t shows another cape without seams.
Fig.
/
In this pattern our construction line
the
/
y.\
/
/
pattern
along
placed
falls
two unit parts of the of width from it.
scale
^^
line,
The
—^
is
—
A B, and fundamental is
d
this
>k 4'"'
fi'ont
so that
shoiilder
seam of
now
placed to
the back
is
'
the shoulder of the front so
that the neck cutout
We now
of
joint the ends
center of the line
a.
both of
front
this
and back forms
semicircle
with
a semicircle. lines,
marking the
A PARISIAN
84
We tlie
next mark
side fi'oni
from
o to
point.
e.
tlie
tlic
desired lengtli of the front, tlien
slioulder line neek eutout.
and draw tlirough these
iDoints
and a
and
any distance
desired length of
semieirele
with
marked
as
a
the center
in
lines,
lines.
The center of the back flaring cape
tlie
desired length of the back
tlie
In the fignre tliree ditTerent lengths are given lines
more
TAILORING SYSTEM
LADIES'
is
o
—
c
is
laid out on the fold of the material.
desired, onr line o
desired, as this will give
—
lis
e
may
a
more
If
be pivoted from o towards c flaring
a
—
ett'ect.
Fig. 95 gives a cape with a separate sleeve
the
setin,
length
full
shorter
which can be extended
if
of
desired as
The construction capes lines.
is
shown
d.
is
or
cut
in Fig. 96.
of both
of these
94 in
in Fig.
The sleeve
from k through
cape
the
shown
shown by an are
the highest point of
the shoulders to g.
Cutting
along
tliis
line
will
give
us the front and liack in one piece; the
second piece
demonstrated
Fig. 96
shows the same cape with a
shawl collar instead of a high standing one.
The sleeve part joining the back
and front
is
cut
length of sleeve
away is
after the desired
reached.
The corresponding parts are sewed together to form the sleeve.
The darts shown mental
making.
pattern
in the front
are
ignored
funda
in
cape
is
the socalled sleeve as
in Fig. 95.
— PARISIAN
LADIES'
TAILORING SYSTEM
85
For Professional Designers (See Table
III— IV)
Table HI In examining the upper sleeve pattern lines,
we
notice construction lines from
A
to
for
a
36 figure marked in heavy
B and A
to
C
in
lines.
These lines make respectively larger and smaller armhalls as indicated by A B, and higher or lower elbow points indicated by A C. The grading lines which indicate the different sizes are respectively f of an inch apart in the upper arm backseam, both in width and length, but at the top of the armball gradually diminish in width toward point A in the underarm seam. In the under sleeve the 36 pattern is marked in heavy lines. A B and A lines mark respectively the highest and lowest point of the underC in arm cutout. and highest and lowest elbow point. The gradings are ^ of an inch apart for width, and § of an inch is allowed,
—
—
—
the same as in the iipper sleeve for the length.
The curve of the underarm cutout increases in enlarging, and decreases in diminishing our fundamental pattern to meet the grading lines of the back under
arm seam. Table IV
The front of our fundamental pattern for iu
a full size 36 figure is
here shown
lines.
lines from points {' to E and D. and from point F to K Note the through C and F to S. These lines are used as guides in grading the pattern. In front and at the sides /i^ of an inch is either added or deducted in grading. lines N V and P. In the side part we see the P is the U to those larger than the reguguide for grading to sizes smaller than 36, and The grading lines are ^/^,. of an inch apart. lar 36. In the back the grading lines are on the average '/^^ of an inch apart, line A B. the construction of same being guided by the By adding the grading distances of the front "/j,., side 'Vni, and back '/,,., we have increased or diminished our half pattern one inch. Doubling this on the whole pattern we obtain the size of the pattern, as all patterns are graded on a '
— — —
—
—
—
twoinch scale.
The
table also includes a schedule of all necessary measurements
from 30
to 48 bust measure.
Remarks
As all patterns are made without seams, we must allow  of an inch for all seams in the upper and under sleeves, and li inches in the length for turning under and facing. In the basque f of an inch is allowed on all seams, except at the front, shoulders, and center back, where an allowance of J of an inch is made. In addition to this, to the center front an allowance of li inches is made for singlebreasted effect, and from 2 to 2i inches for doublebreasted garments. The usual  of an inch allowance is made for cuffs, collars, pockets, etc.
\
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
014 063 989 8