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TT 515

X^. SKIRTS, DRESSES,, lllitid AU Outer Garmenl'


Class.

Book_

.^Zl^p.

CoffyrightN" COPYRFCKT DEPOSIT.


INCE

the establishment of our firm 50 years

and environs, as shown us the most generous patronage. We have long ago, the ladies of Chicago

I

fc^Ji^

'

II

well as our mail customers, have

desired to

One

show our appreciation

of this fact.

of our hardest task has been to find a suit-

able offering

welcome and

useful to

all.

After entering into the merits of

we have

many

proposi-

decided upon the free distribution to our customers of "The Parisian Ladies' Teuloring System," which enables every one to take measurements, make designs, cut her own patterns, tions,

fit

and make

at last

herself

for

or for

her family,

or for

professional purposes. Suits, Waists, Dresses, or any

Outer Garment,

in

accordance with the prevailing

styles.

our sincere hope that this book will be welinvaluable in every household, and that it will be a guide and boon to the great masses of our It

is

come and

patrons.

The

Excelsior

Dry Goods Company.


PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM or

fi

Designing, Pattern Cutting, Fitting and Making

Waists, Skirts, Dresses, Suits

And

All Outer Garments

A MEANS OF SELF EDUCATION AND A GUIDE FOR EDUCATIONAL INSTRUCTION IN TRADE SCHOOLS AND DOMESTIC SCIENCE INSTITUTIONS ith

Over 100 Explanatory Drawings Charts

22x28

in Text, including

Four Supplementary

inches of Full Size Patterns and Grading

Instruction for Professional Designers

<.

Z.

ZEISLER

Copyrighted 1917

by

A. Z. Zeisler


^\ ^

\o

%"<

Contents Page

Page

Figs.

Measurements width

ol"

talve

tlie

.... .... haek .... .... waist ... .... shoulder ... .... .... .... .... neck ....

Widlli of Lengtli of sides llie

VH.

front

.

.

.

YITI.

7

IX.

Possible changes fashions

32

X.

7

'file

XT.

S

S

of

the

and

....

shirtwaist in

its

XII.

38

...

Collar construction

Pockets

46

50

....

50

cutting of a circular skirt pattern

52

XIII.

Culls and sleeves

XIV.

'file

8

of

38

different

forms

S

.

35

designing liatternmaking basis

34

the

in

The fundamental pattern

7

.

XV.

of

scale

the

.

.

hefoi-e remeasiuing fundamental iialtern Remeasiuing the measures of width Renieasuring the measures

fundamental the pattern to seamed shoulder effect in front and

back

2(1

XVII.

Adaption of the normal pattern for changed ligures The forward bent ligure .

.

,\rraiiging

21

suits,

CI

the

pattern

.jackets

and

for outer

garments 22

of length

64

XVIII.

The cutting of collars for tailored suits and cloaks

06

XIX.

'file

cutting of capes from the fundamental pattern

82

XX.

For

.

23 2.'!

.

'''he backward bent figure The ligure with broad back .

flat

....

chest

Tables I.

II.

III.

I,

II, III,

21

])rofe;;sional

"The Grading"

2.^

IV, folded at

.

designers:

....

end of book:

Scales of length and width, "Original size."

i\\

fundamental pattern of ba.sciue and sleeves. "Grading" for Professional Designcr.s.

Full sized

and

IV.

50

Changing

Id

Remarks the

....

])leated skirt

XVI.

and

'fhe cutting of the gored

9

designing of the fundamental waist pattern

and

31

'.I

Preparing width "J'he

.... ....

under sleeve 7

S

length

29 30

upper and

the

under sleeve

(i

.

...

28

Renieasuring the upper and

.

Preparing our scales scale the Preparing

Constructing

fi

7

iif

.

.

Cutting of lining and material

(i

Height

Around the Length of underarm Circumference of arm

IV.

y\.

7

Length of slujuhler

...

(i

Around tlie liips Width of chest front

sloping

The slender figure The .short built ligure

,")

2(1

27

with

ligure

shoulders

7

ol'

....

flat

shoulders

Size of arniliole Heiglit of

Lengtli

III.

The

measure-

Lenglli of l)ark

II.

â&#x20AC;˘>

.')

ments Around the bust

Around

The

and

lengtli

Remarks on measurements to

4

and their

order

with full chest back figure with high

figure

and

1

2

Tlu' iiieasurenients

How

The

3

Bddy measurements; and

(Continued)

V.

2

Testimonials Charts

,\^ \^

JAN 10 tyi8

\,\n

A

85


Preface VERY as

woman's ambition is to be her neighbor. The secret of

correct

fit

garment

of the

to

at least as perfectly

correct

gowning

the individual

gowned

lies in

the

of

the

figure

wearer.

We

know that the styles change frequently from season we must bear in mind that the underlying principle is

to season, but

"Fundamental Pattern

the

have

we

this,

and after ^ve the so-called "Basque, are able to execute any desired style according varia"

"

tions in vogue.

Many of our Cutting Academies, however, which still cling to "Old Worn Out System" make a number of body measurements the basis of their instructions and graduate their pupils with a stock of stereotyped patterns in hand, and numerous sets of figures in mind, of which memory soon makes a jumble. Some of our tailors and dressmakers in consequence make the sad mistake of attempting to use one pattern for all figures, without discrimination. They reason that all that is needed is a little "taking in, it

or a

"

"little letting

conform

out" of the original pattern

in

order to

As

to the slim or stout figures of their patrons.

make actual

soon convinces them of the incorrectness of their w^ork, and of the impossibility of fitting individual figures in this fashion, they are trial

compelled to waste not only

their time and labor in making neceswear out the patience of their patrons, and in the end they turn out garments which are seldom perfect fitting, comfortable and chic. For several years there has been a widespread demand for

sary alterations, but also

some rational course in Pattern Designing. The author, through long years of experience in foreign countries, and for years in Nev^f York with one of the largest wholesale houses as designer and pattern cutter in ladies' w^earing apparel of all descriptions, has planned this book to serve as a basis for such a course. At the same time its careful omission of all technical expressions, and its plain, simple language cannot fail to recommend it as "A SELF INSTRUCTOR" to home dressmakers who desire well fitting clothes. In pattern designing there are three important considerations to bear in mind: 1) That all figures are fundamentally similar. 2)

That no two human

figures are exactly alike.

vary with the seasons. Hence the author has sought to explain

FUNDAMENTAL PATTERN, and

style that

can be

made by

and secondly,

first,

all

That

3)

the

styles

making of a

changes of form

modification of this pattern.

book will be a boon to those give instruction in dressmaking courses, to thousands who have chosen dressmaking as a profession, and also to the home dressIt

is

certain therefore, that this

who

maker.

A. Z.

Zeisler.


:

:

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

Testimonials

From

Louis Grancr

To \vhoni I

it

may

&

Co.. Cloaks,

concern

Mantles, Etc., 305 Canal

St..

New York,

N. Y.

:

consider the cutting system of Mr. A. Z. Zeisler as practical ami useful to

ladies makiufi' their

own garments.

LOUIS GRANER.

Ji/^^. From

-^^^.^

L. Adler,

Manufacturer of Furs, 39 St.

Marks

Place,

NcAv York, N. Y.

To Mr. A.

Z. Zeisler

At your request

I

full j' testify that 3'ou

ing i^atterns for

my

herewith cheerhave been makcustomers, and

made

that the garments tlius

actly without being tried on

Therefore relations,

I,

are

as well as

my

thoroughly

fit

ex-

fir.st.

Inisiness

pleased

with your system. Respectfully,

^,^.

Mr. A.

L.

Clevelaiul, Ohio.

Z. Zeisler, Practical Designer,

At present

ADLER.

in Cleveland.

Dear Professor The luulersigned, a committee of your pupils, beg leave to hand you herewith a medal as an inadequate mark of our highest respect and our sineerest appreciation of you as our teacher. AVe shall ever remember the most valuable course we went through, aided by your unerring guidance and your lucid explanaWell may Ave congratulate ourselves to have found tion of the Tailor Sy.stem. your method so plain and instructive that after attending your course but for fourteen evening lessons,

we

are

now

fully enabled to

make

all

kinds of patterns in the

and cloak branch, and to grade them most accurately, in a way surpassing all that was known heretofore. the All of which we beg to otTer in the name and as the true sentiment of ladies' dresses

pupils of your evening course.

Very Respectfidly,

THE COMMITTEE. Adolf Barber,

J.

Goodman,

C.

Goodman.


PARISIAN

LADIES-

TAILORING SYSTEM

Charts (At end of volume.)

TABLE The The

Scales of Length and

I

Width

in

Original Size

scales of length divided into sixteen (16) equal parts

from

a 13-inch length of back to ITJ inches.

The scales of width divided into eighteen (IS) equal parts from a 30-incIi (1.5-ineli lialf measurement) to 4S-inch (24-inch half measurement) around the bust.

TABLE

A

Full Sized

A sleeves,

full

II

Fundamental Pattern

of

Basque and Sleeves

fundamental pattern of basque and width and length measurements and showing how they are made.

sized 86 figure

with a scale of

construction lines,

all

For Professional Designers (See explanation on page 85)

TABLE

III

upper and under sleeves, in full, from a 36 figure down to 30, and up to 48, giving a tabulation of all the necessary measurements.

The grading

of

Table IV

The proper grading of front, back, and side parts in full. from a 36 figure down to a 30, and up to a 48 bust measure, accompanied by a chart giving all required measurements, and also showing the construction of the seamed front made from a loose one.


Around the Bust. Length of Back. Width of Back, Length of Sides. Around the Waist, *

Record One-half of

Size of Armhole. Height of Shoulder,

Around tlie Hips. Width of Chest. 10.

all

Height of Front.

Measurements Marked

(*).

11. li;.

*13. 14.

Length of Front. Lengtii of Slioulder.

Around

tlie

Necli.

Lengtii of Under Arm. Circumference of Arm.


PARISIAN

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

The Measurements and Their Order 1—2)

(See Fig.

The measurements are very important. Their chief purpose is to give a thorough knowledge of the build of the body for whioh tlie garment is to be made, and by their means we are enabled to make our pattern correctly and easily for the model.

The diagrams. Fig 1 2, show in which way and in what order the measurements are to be taken. After some practice and experience we will be able to produce any style of garment to correspond to these given measurements.

making

In the

and

of waists, suits, skirts,

all

outer garments,

we need

the

following fifteen measurements in order. *1. 2.

*3. 4.

*5.

Around

the bust

6.

Size of armhole Height of shoulder

Length of back Width of back Length of sides

*9.

Around the hips Width of chest

Around

10.

Height of front

7.

*8.

the waist

14.

Length of front Length of shoulder Around the neck Length of inider arm

15.

Circumference of arm

11. 12. ''lo.

Measurements of Length and Width (See Fig. In taking the measurements

we

1

2)

notice

that

our

all

measurements

are

length and width measurements.

The Measurements 4. 7.

of

Length of back 10. Height of front Length of sides 11. Length of front Height of shoulder All length measurements are to be recorded

Size of armhole. 15. ments are also recorded in full. 6.

*1.

Around the bust Width of back

I

*5.

I

*8.

12.

IL

Length of shoulder Length of luider arm

in full.

Circumference of arm, altho not length measure

The Measurements *3.

Length Are:

Around Around

of

Width Are:

the waist the hips

In the width measurements only one-half recorded.

of

*9. '^IS.

the

Width of chest Around the neck

measurements taken are

Remarks on Measurements In oi'der not to omit any measurements and to avoid mistakes, it is advisable to take a strip of paper numbered and marked with the 15 measurements in order. This Avill be of great help to the beginner. All of the examples given in this a length of back of 15 inches.

book are based upon 36 bust figure with

Figs. 1 2 show that in taking the measurements the model, measuring, namely: *1. 2.

*3.

Around

the bust

4.

Length of back Width of back Record

One-half of

*5.

all

Length of

Around

we begin from

the back of

arm

sides

6.

Size of

the waist

7.

Height of shoulder

Measurements Marked

(*).

hole


2

:

:

PARISIAN

we proceed from

done,

Tliis

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

the front of the tigure, as

shown

in Fig. 1

and measure *9.

Around the liips Width of chest

10.

Height of front

*8.

Length of front Length of shoulder Around the neck

11. 12.

*13.

How

Take

to

the

(See Fig.

Length of under arm

14.

Circumference of arm

15.

Measurements 1—2)

All the measurements given in the column to the left are those of a regular

bust figure, with

a length of

trations in this book are based on the

same model.

36-inch

around

th<'

*

Around the

1

Around

.

tin-

the Bust

bust meas-

ure.

Record onlv one-half.

Length of Back

2.

Length of back,

Take

15 inches. "Write as follows

measurement along the center of the

this

back, from the neck bone spine, to the waist line, and

15/26/51

By

we understand

this

Record

our

length of back is 15 inches to the waist line, 26 for jacket inches length, and 51 inches that

the

in full.

we take this measurement for a jacket or coat, we write this length also. If Ave wish to take the measurement for a skirt we record all three in full, as shown in the opposite colunni.

* 3.

Width

of

Back

careful to take this measiirement neither always according too narrow nor too wide across the back from to the actual fashion one armhole to the other, with the arms dropped in natural position at sides.

lie

Width 62-

down along

If

from the neck bone to the bottom of the skirt.

*3.

All illus-

This measurement is taken from tlie back of the model, around the fullest part of the bust, under the arms, and around the back, about six inches below the collar.

bust,

18 inches.

One-half of

back of 15 inches.

of back, inches.

One-half of the measure.

Record onlv one-half.

Length of Side

4.

4.

Length of

This

side, |

8-i

Write

inches.

as the desired lengths,

8-1/27/52,

three

•Record One-half of

all

J ^ [

measurement

is

taken

from

the

arm-

pit to the waist line. For jackets and skirts measure down to the desired lengths, and record as shown in the opposite column in full.

Measurements Marked

(*).


PARISIAN 5.

LADIES' Around

Around

tlie

the Waist

Measurement

take this measurement from the back, where the waistline is most distinctly marked, and

W(>

the waist, 13 inches.

One-half of ment.

TAILORING SYSTEM

J

measure-

Record only one-half. Size of

6.

Armhole

the back around the arm socket, sleeve joins the dress. Take carefully, as arms are differently developed.

f Taken from where the

Size or armhole,

J

16 inches.

Record

in full.

Height of Shoulder

7.

is an important measurement, as some models have sloping and some high shoulders. Begin at the waist line in the center of the back, run over the highest point of the shoulder, along the most developed part of

This

Height of shoulder, 33i inches.

the bust,

down

to the center waistline in the

front.

Record

Around

8.

*8.

Around

the Hips

measure is taken from the front around the most pronounced part of the hips, about 7 inches below the waistline.

Tliis

the hips,

20 inches. One-half.

Record only one-half.

L

Width *9.

Width

in full.

of Chest

Take along front from one armhole

to the other inclined bow line over the most developed part of the bust.

of chest,

in a

8^ inches.

downward

One-half.

Record only one-half. 10.

Height of Front at the back neck bone at the base of the neck, run over the shoulder to the center of the front to the waistline.

Begin 10.

Height of front, 21 inches.

1 I

Record

in full.

Length of Front

I.

^

measurement begins in front at the base and runs down to the waistline. For jackets and skirts, measure down to the

Tliis

of the neck

11.

Length of front, 16/26/51

J

required length of these garments.

Record Record One-half of aU Measurements Marked

(*).

in full.


PARISIAN

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

Length of Shoulder

12.

Measure

I'l-oui

the base of the neck along shoul-

der to the arm socket.

This length depends upon prevailing fashions, and could be made

Ijciigth of shoulder,

12.

5 inches.

shorter or longer, as explained later.

Record in

*

Around

*13.

tlie

I

3.

Around

the

Neck

Run

neck,

the tape measure around the base of the neck.

/

64 inches.

1

4.

Record one-half.

Length of Under

Arm down to the inside of down to the wrist,

M<'asuri' fi'oni the armpit

8J

— 18

.ioint

then

and reco^'d botii of the ascertained measures as shown in opposite column. Record in full.

iuchea.

15.

15.

elbow

the

Length of under arm.

14.

full.

Circumference of

Arm

Pass till' tape around arm, ami

Circumference of arm, 10 inches.

tin-

Record

Preparing (See Tables

I— IT

Our at

thickest part of the

in full.

Scales

end of Volume)

Since our system is based \ipon length and cori-ect scales of mi-asuri'mrnts in order to design

a\

a

idth measurements, we need fundamental pattern for each

model.

Our

scale of length

The

scale of width

is

based upon measurenu'ut (two)

depends upon measurement (one)

1,

2.

the length of back.

the around the bust

measure. In our previous study figure

is

bust measurement.

*

we saw

the length of back of a regular 36 was recorded as one-half of the around the mind we are ready for our scale. that

15 inches and that 18 inches

With

these in

Record One-half of aU Mpasiirements Marked

(•).


.PARISIAN

LADIES'

The Take a back

TAILORING SYSTEM

Scale of Length

paper one inch in width, exactly as long as the length of In example cited tliat lengtli is 15 inches.

strip of

to the -waistline.

Fold this strip of paper into four equal parts, and each of these divisions Thus the whole length of back is divided into again into four equal parts. sixteen (16) parts, which serve as our scale of length.

Kemember and

shorter,

if

that

if

the length of l)ack

we have

shorter,

is

the

divisions

be

will

a longer length of back, the divisions will be longer,

but the length must always be divided into sixteen (16) equal parts.

The

Width

Scale of

In preparing the scale of width, do not forget that

we

use as a basis one-

we

half of the around the bust measurement. In our illustration of the 36 model,

recorded 18 inches.

Cut a strip of paper one inch (1) wide, exactly one-half as long as the around the bust measure. Fold inta three equal parts. Then refold each of those equal parts into three. Next fold each of these nine (9) equal parts in half. We have now eighteen (IS) equal parts. In forget,

tlu'

1st.

illustration each of these parts

that

tin-

one-half of the around

,

â&#x20AC;˘^

of

size

tlie

the

is

one

parts vary with

bust measure

is

(1)

inch

the bust

long,

but do

mea.sure

;

2d,

not that

always divided into eighteen (18) equal

parts.

Remarks About For convenience

the Scales

making the

scales of length and width easily and corend of the book in Table I, scales of length from 13 to 174 inches length of back, and scales of width from 15 to 24 inclies one-half aro^^nd the bust measurement. in

rectly, 3'ou will find at the

These scales of length and scales of width in Table I should be used for both Df our scales, as they have the advantage of being divided correctly. If we copy these scales of length and width from Table I and paste each on a separate strip of cardboard, we have both of our scales in readiness for any size of figure, and thus avoid wasting time preparing them when needed.

lengtli

For the pupil it is of the greatest importance to know how our scales and width are prepared for any figure, should he be called upon

make

these scales himself.

of to

Bear in mind simpl.y that the scale of length is always divided into sixteen (16) parts, and the scale of width always into eighteen (18) equal parts. "With the length and width scales in hand, the designing of our fundamental waist pattern.

we

are

now prepared

to start


10

PARISIAN

The Designing

TTT TTT Z

e

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

"Fundamental Waist Pattern'

of the

TTT

TTT ^

f^

9

9

8

Tl O

01

II

ol

Fig. 3

TAILORS' SQUARE

Fig.

3A

TRACING-WHEEL

Fig. H-lu'cI.

.3

shows us

a tailoriv square.

Both are needed for correct drawing and tracing.

"Witli this tailor's

square

wt' ju-epare

lines perpendicular to each other, as

mark

Fig. 3A, a traeing-

the same

A —B

and

A— C.

on a sheet of paper

shown

in Fig.

4,

and


PARISIAN

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

11

B

4

Fig. Reduced

Mark

to

One-fourth

A— B

the horizontal line

and the vertical

2

A— C.

12^

81

A

line

Fig. 5 Reduced

51

Having drawn our

we begin

to

lines

One-fourth

perpendicular to each other,

mark

the points of widtli with our scale of width, along our horizontal line from to B, as shown to

A

in Fig.

.5.

8i

Using one part of our scale of width as our unit of measure,

we mark

this distance

off respectively 4, 8j, 1^^, 17, 19

along

our scale of width.

A —B,

times thus adding one unit part to

These points we

call

our width points.

With one part of our scale of length as our unit of we proceed, according to the diagram in Pig. 5, mark off 2, 5^, 8^, 14^ times the length of this unit

measure, to

14J

from

A

toward

C,

and

call these

points our length points.

We readily see that the length and width points vary with the size of each of the equal parts of the scale, for we must 1/16 and

not forget that the length of these parts are IS of their respective measurements.

1

17

19

B


C

PARISIAN

12

LADIES'

Next we take measurement illustration, hut

and beginningpoint

z.

11.

TAILORING SYSTEM

Length of

front, sixteen (16) inches in the

always the exact measurement of the

at the

length point

2,

measure

as sliown in the illustration. Fig.

5.

Fig.

6

lengtli of front of the model,

this distance

along

A— C.

121

8^

Letter this

19

17

B

14.1

Fig. 6

shows vertical

and horizontal

lines

lines

drawn from

drawn from

the width points parallel

the length points parallel to

The numberings of our length and width

jioints are

beginning, as an aid in memorizing these dimensions. in

making the fundamental pattern.

to

A—

A— B.

necessary only in the

They may

later be omitted


:

PARISIAN

LADIES'

we have added

In Fig. 7

TAILORING SYSTEM and points

certain lines

13

to our preceding figure,

namely 1st.

2d. is

one

(1)

A B, drawn from a point inch above z. auxiliary line parallel to A B, drawn from the point b. Avhich inch above the auxiliary line previously made, or Ij inches above z.

An An

auxiliary line parallel to

-]-

Fig. 7 19

12^

8i

51

Point

one unit part of our scale of width from point 2. The line and ending about half way between Si 14-Jon the vertical line A C, forms our front line. 4th. The auxiliary line from point 17 to 5^ gives us the back shoulder line. 5th. The auxiliary line from point 4 to the point Avhere 5i meets 19 is our front shoulder line. 6th. The auxiliary line from point e to 14J indicates to us the height of our 3d.

bow

line

a.

Avhich

is

from a crossing our 5^

darts or dart. 7tli.

The

full line

extending through

f

—g

to the z line

is

our center back

line.

8th. The points c, one unit part of the scale of width, and d, one-half of one unit part of our scale of width, measured respectively from points wliere line

5| crosses lines 8^ and 12i. These points will be used in connection lines.

with the formation of armhole


PARISIAN

14

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

Fig. 8 shows us all the points formerly explained with the followinp- additions

:

Fig. 8

19

17

12.1

B

5i

m.

8i

14J

At a distance of two unit parts of the scale of width the points k and 1 are placed respectively to the left and right of the intersection of line 4 and the bottom line. These points are connected with the dart line 14^ e at line 4, and thus form our dart. curve that begins at the auxiliary front shoulder line, passes The line 5^—17 and the full 12^ through c. m, d. to tlie intersection of the armholc. This gives the line. From point 19 measure down a distance equal to one unit part of our scale of length and mark this point s. Connect 17 an(l s with a curve line, to secure lines. the back line collar cut-out as marked in From point s through points f and g, along the center back line, the distance s— i equals the length of liack measurement (15 inches according to our

model

figure).

At

i

From

we have point

i,

— —

i i

j

perpendicular to

s

i

meeting the

121-

hne

at

j.

o is parallel to auxiliary line b.

Point o is connected with 1 by a curve wliicli passes through r. This curved line represents our front and side waist line. the interis about one unit part of our scale of width distant from Point the line n is drawn to about the section of line 8-1 and 8i. From point center of the lowest line'. The points need not be exactly measured, as any deviaIf tion to either one side or other does not aflfect the correctness of the pattern. both are located about centrally between 81 and 12i the side effect of pattern is

m

better balanced.

m

m—


PARISIAN In Fig. 9

we

see the

LADIES'

same

lines

TAILORING SYSTEM

we have mentioned

the following:

ig-

in our

15

former tigure plus


PARISIAN

16

From

till'

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

foot of our back side line

we measure on From

line z a distance equal

to one-half of the unit part of the scale of width.

straight construction line in

about

lialf

way between

to the 8^ line

with

tlie

8| and Hi. and thence curve to d.

this

point

we draw

a

which it meets From here we follow the back side curve

lines to

our back side

line,

This gives us the side part that connects

back.

From u measure both right and left a distance equal to one-half part of our scale of width and connect both these new found points and

a

unit

m

with

line.

lines to point v, a little rounded cut-out gives note also that in next extend the waist the waist line. at curve-in correct piece a side the line. line from o to this

We

We


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

17

Prevailing fashions dictate -whether tlie back or the side parts shonld be narrow or wide, and accordingly we either make narrow backs and wide side parts, or vica versa, as either would be correct, and would make no particular difference in the structure of the pattern. In the same way we make our front parts narrower or wider, as

we

shall see in our next figure.

In Fig. 10 we see exactly the same as in our former figure. We have omitted our construction lines for our fundamental pattern, and have worked instead in heavy lines. Our remarks following explain our new lines. all

Fig.

11

we notice at a glance that our back side line, which joins our longer at the top and shorter at tlie waist line, and that the corre-

In this figure side piece

is

sponding side

But

line of the side part

after cutting out our pattern

actly in their length

In Fig. 10

making

we

of a short

from the top

extension below the waist

line.

will find that

both of these correspond ex-

to the waist line.

and

find in

"basque" and

shorter at the top and longer at the waistline.

is

we

in

in

lines

heavy

an illustration of the shaped

lines a longer differently


PARISIAN

18

From our end

line z

front line,

and beyond,

ing the

we

l-li,

notice in

extending toward our

lines

a cut-out of one-half of a unit

diminishing towards our hip

We

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

part of the scale of width

line.

k

find also that the dart line to

is

shorter than the dart line to

the length of the second in sewing, will secure a better

first to

In eases of stout figures

it

is

of the utmost importance to

1.

make two

instead of one, and also two side parts instead of one, to secure a better

IIow these changes are made

an exact division of breaking points. and shown in Fig. \1.

From k

to

Fig. S measuring

along base line

Now

we

1

is

darts

fit,

and

described

which we have constructed in of Avidth on each side of line 4

see our original single dart,

two unit parts

of the scale

z.

]ilaee

in

Stretch-

fit.

of this one

dart

we must

construct two darts, but both of

these together nuist not measure more than four unit parts of our scale of width

that

is,

;

the exact measure of one dart.

Along

line z

measure both

and

to the right

left of line 4, a distance

to one unit part of our scale of width, marki]ig points

draw

lines parallel to line 4 to

along line

z,

l)oth to right

and

meet dart

left of line 4,

mark

w

and

z.

line 14^ e at off

equal

At these points p and q. Now

points at distance of i a

unit part of the scale of width, and connect respectively with p and q in lines p and q. with points that measure Next connect by means of lines.

one and one-half (lil unit parts of

Tims we

th(^

scale of width

see that each of these darts

from

measure two

z

luiit

and w. parts of our scale

of widiii. and are therefore no wider togctlie)- than one dart, which

we remem!)er

measures four unit parts.

Now bottom

line of the first

line

to

point

Dart one from the front The second dart bottom line. dart, with the first dart line of the seeond dart, from tin- bottom The second dart and line i of an inch above bottom line. lines tlie following:

connect with

line, to

liui'

]

of an inch above

r.

The corresponding edges of the darts are not identical in length, but nuist be stretched, as we found it was necessai-y to do in the case of the single dai-t in order to secure shapeliness in the garment. "We further see in Fig. 11 the division of the one side part of our previous two side parts, which we can make narrower or wider at will. We

figure into

must, however, bear in mind that the width of the cut-outs between the two side parts and the side part and front must not exceed together the width of the original side cut-out at u, which is equal to one unit part of tlu' scale of width. Fig. 12 shoM-s the basque waist line in n,

and ending

in line v,

and the back

line

which

line is

passing through

between

j

and

1,

r,

i.

sired,

As we have stated before, all our jiattcrns are based on the "basque." If, however, the basque is not deis the "fundamental Avaist" patt<'rii. we sec in the next figure how to make tlie necessary changes in the front

Avaist

line.

which


PARISIAN

LADIES-

TAILORING SYSILM

Fig.

19

12

In this fig-ure point x is taken eqni-distant and 4 along line A B. Now with a thread looped for a pencil, as shown in the figure by the lines, from x as the pivot point for a thread held with the left thumb, describe the heavy broken ark z, u.

from point

all

A

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

This gives a Avaist line which we- shall use in future fundamental patterns.

auxiliary line i inch above was of value only in the construction of the basque waist line, and may now be omitted from our future drawings.

shows a simplified pattern with lines and lines that show deviation from the original pattern, omitted. Fig.

1.3

many explanatory

When

this pattern has

been correctly drafted, according to previous instruepaper under pattern (pinning pattern and paper together to pr event slipping), and with tracing wheel (Fig. 3) trace the front, side, and back along the heavy lines. Next cut out the three separate pieces and lay aside the original drawing for future reference.

tions, place a sheet of .


20

PARISIAN

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

Fig.

13

With these separate pai'ts hiid l)eofore us we proceed to remeasure our pattern.

Remarks Before Remeasuring

the

Fundamental Pattern

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Fig. 14 15 explain how the tliree different parts of the pattern, front, side, and back, are placed before we are able to remeasure according to the fifteen (1.5) body measurements previously made, beginning

with measure 14,

1 and ending Avith 1.5. The measurements, 8, around the liips: length of arm; 15, circumference of

arm,

we

We

will find in

our later diagrams.

order to measure 7, height of shoulder; 10, height of front; 12, length of slioulder, and 13, around the neck, we must place the shoulder of the back to the shoulder of the front (as shown in Fig. 14 15), to enable us to compare these measurements with those previously made, putting the same back to their proper places for remeasuring all of tlie other parts. find

that

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

in


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

Fie.

*3.

*5.

*j *9.

Z]

14

Around the bust, 18. Width of back, 6i. Around tlie waist, 13. Around the hips, 20. Width of chest, 8^

12.

Length of shoulder.

13.

Around the neck,

5.

6^.

Remeasuring the Measures of Width Li remeasuring, our pattern, -we lind siiown in Fig. li the results of the

width measurements of a model with a regular 36 bust measure (IS inches half measure) to be namely: 1, around the bust, 18; 3, width of back, 6^; 5, around the waist, 12|; 9, width of chest, 8J; 12. length of shoulder, 5; 13, around the neck, 13|. If the model is perfectl.y built we will find these correct the slight difference which may occur in some measurements may be easily corrected, as we will show ;

in the future diagrams.


PARISIAN

22

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

Remeasuring the Measurements of Length "\Yc liave

in Fig-. 14.

explained the remeasurin>; of the width measures of our pattern to the remeasuring of our measurements of

The same rule applies

length in Fig. 15.

2. 4.

Length of back, 15. Length of side, 82.

6.

Size of armhole, 16.

7.

Height of shoulder, 33| Height of front, 21. Length of front, 16.

10.

11.


PARISIAN

LADIES'

Adaption of the Normal Pattern

TAILORING SYSTEM to So-called Slightly

23

Changed Figures

We

would be making- a serious mistake to assume that every tigure is perfectly normally built; that is to say, that every tigure is built iu exactly the same proportion as our 36 model, given in our drawings. In most cases, however, we are able to make slight which correct the slight differences that arise through the variations in proportions. In such cases we consider our figures perfect in spite of the fact that they do not come up to the standard model. alterations

The Forward Bent Figure Fig 16 shows a forward bent figure. In Fig. 17, in heavy lines, we see the regular or fundamental pattern, and in lines variations from this, necessary for the model shown in Fig. 16. Thus we see that iu cases iu which the back is somewhat bent forward, the back part must be a little longer, that the back shoulder with the neck cut-out nuist be changed, and that the front shoulder and front line must be shortened. Such slight changes that may be necessary can easily be made if a little extra material is allowed in the seams.


PARISIAN

24

Fig.

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

18

The Backward Bent Figure 111

namely

Figs. 18 tlie

and 19 we

backward

lieiit

.see

an exactly opposite

figure.

case,

Therefore the back

must he shortened by changing the neck and shoulder line,

and both front shoulder and front

lengthened. in

mental

line

must be

All other necessary changes are also lines,

ijattern,

Fig.

to

marked

19

marked

distinguish them from the fundain full lines.


PARISIAN Fig.

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

25

20

The Figure with Broad Back and

Flat

Chest Fig. 20 shows us a wide back, Fig. 21

we

the changes

notice in

we have made

mental pattern, which

and

lines

is

in

in all

onr funda-

shown

heavy

in

lines.

Our back, we

note, has been widened,

while the chest has been ately narrower.

made

Our shoulder

also been changed.

proportionlines

have


PARISIAN

26 Fis.

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

22

The Figure with

Full Chest

and Flat Back

Fig. 22 shows us a figure with full chest.

In Fig. 23

we

lines the neces-

see iu

sary changes from our fundamental pattern. notice that the back has been

the front

wider for the

full

We

made narrower and bust,

and that the

shoulder line of the back has also been slightly

changed.

Fig.

23


PARISIAN Fig.

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

27

24 The Figure with High Shoulders Fig. 24

shows us high shoulders, and

Fig. 25 the fundamental pattern in full

and

lines,

the lines.

necessary

We

have

changes raised

in

the

height of the shoulders of the front part as well as the hack, as they

would have

heen too low for this figure, according

to

the measurements taken

We Tlie

have also changed the armhole.

tape measure on these three parts

shows these changes

Fig.

25

clearlv.


28

PARISIAN Fig.

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

26

The Figure with Sloping Shoulders Fig.

'26

lu Fig. 27

sliow.s

we

us the sloping shoulder.

see that

we have

increased

the slope of our shoulder lines in lines, in

order to

make

the measurements

of the height of shoulder correspond to

the measurements of our model in Fig. 26.

Tiu'

altered.

Fig.

27

armhole has also heen slightly


PARISIAN

TAILORING SYSTLM

LADIES"

29

The Slender Figure Fig. 28 shows us a slender figure, in which

the following measurements are longer than the

normal

model

:

length

the

of

back,

the

the

length of sides, the height of shoulder, the height of front, the length of front,

and the length of

under arm.

The slight

lines

in

Fig.

29.

indicate

the

changes to he made in the fundamental pattern,

if

after re-

measuring we notice that the length measurements of the pattern do not exactly agree with those of the model. Fig.

In drawing our fundamental pattern

28

all

these

work out

Fig.

29

parts

will

correctly.


30

PARISIAN

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

The Short Fig'.

fnrr

Built Figure

slioAvs the sliort built figure, and therefuudinniMital pattern must lie shorter uornuil.

30

the

tiiau tile

lines, marking length In Fig. 31 the of back, length of sides, height of shoulder, height of front, and length of front are shorter than the full lines marking the original fundamental pattel'll.

e

no^v given the most important devianornnd which the pupil may encounter in actual work Avith different models, and we have tried to show how to meet these difficulties by making the correct variations in our patterns.


PARISIAN

LADIES'

The Cutting After

all

TAILORING SYSTEM

of Lining

corrections liave been made,

and Material and our fundamental pattern has

to correspond with the measurements the cutting of our linings and materials. l)een

31

changed

of our figure,

we

j)roeeed

to

we must be careful to lay out our pattern (lengthwise) would lie on the body if ready to wear. The iieavy lines indicate how much we have to add to these parts for seams, the width of the heavy lines being the measure. In the

first

place

on the material, as

this

The general allowance for seams is f of an inch, except for the center Vinek. shoulders and front line, in which case we allow | of an inch.

An extra allowance not shown in this pattern of 1| inches the front line for a hem, buttons and button holes.

is

made along

On the right front, however, I of an inch of this extra allowance must be cut away in order that this front, wliich contains button holes, shall properly lap over our buttons, and thus give a centrally located front line. Fig. 32.

A

.shows the front,

B

side part,

C

the back of our pattern.

The sleeves (which we show in our next diagram) must also lie lengthwise on our material, if we wish the grain of the material to run the same in both waist and sleeve.


PARISIAN

32

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM Under Sleeve

Constructing the Upper and

In Fig. 33, ent sleeves, the

D— E,

first

and Fig.

3-t,

F— G, we show

a Avider one for use

second a narrower one for

the construction of two differ-

and outer garments,

jackets

in

the

dresses, suits, etc.

"We will find other sleeves in our later examples.

As

in

our fundamental waist pattern, we

draw

first

the lines perpendicular

A—B

to each other with the "tailors' square," lettering the horizontal line

the vertical line

A—

C.

From

A — B,

point A, along

with the scale of width, marking off 3|,

7,

and

measure the width points

SI times one unit part of the scale.

A

Next from point ure 2J and

A— C,

meas-

unit parts of the scale of

-i^

(These

width.

along

two measurements

first

of

the sleeves are always measured with the scale of width.)

From 21-1-

A

point

we next measure

and 23 inches along (All

ured

points

these

12,

A — C.

are

always meas-

in inches.)

Finish the drawing of cross lines as in the diagram.

The distance from from n

to d, 9| inches,

f to n.is

li inches,

making

the length

of the under sleeve in Fig. 33 and 34, 17

inches for our 3G model.

But we tance from

correspond

miast to

f

to

remember that the

dis-

n and n to d must always the measurements taken

from the actual figure of the model. "We notice in Fig. 33 and 34 that from point

over

circle for

3|-

to

our sleeve

e

Ave

draw a

semi-

ball.

connect points e and f with then draw our curve e f of an inch with a maximum distance of "We

first

lines,

-]

We lines just made. from the have now the curve of the upper sleeve. From point f through n, Avhich marks the intersection of lines 7 and 12, to the intersecting point of lines 8-|- and 21-1, draw upper

a curve for the sleeve.

underarm seam

of


C

;

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM The heavy point lines

33

connecting the last

line

d with the intersecting- point of 3-2 and 23 marks the bottom of sleeve.

lines the end of Connect with bottom of sleeves and 12, for the auxiliary onter line of npper sleeve.

Next measure in from point 4| a distance of ^ of an inch, marking point t. Connect o and t with a curve. From t continue in double curves, as shown in

below 12 in the made. Make the "We rest of auxiliary line a heavy line. now have our npper sleeve and proceed to the under sleeve. figure, to a j^oint a little

before

auxiliary line

In Fig. 33, D, from point a, | inch line, above the intersection of

along 3^

— —

line a 3^ and 2|, draw the Point g is half way between lines A

g.

and 3^ on line 12. Connect g and h, which is one (1) inch along the bottom lines. Comby connecting lines just made with an elbow the curve near g. This forms the outer curve of the under sleeve.

sleeve line, also with plete the

heavy

line a

—h

Along line 4i mark with b a point Connect halfway between 3i and 7. with curve a, b. c and r, for cutNote in figure that out of under arm.

b reaches an inch away from curve a

Now

highest point i of

its

line a

b.

and continuupper sleeve curve, we get the inner curve of lower connecting r and

ing along the line

n,

the

of

sleeve.

We and

8.1.

line

In Fig. 34,

F and

marks

from

4J.

t

—k

section of lines 21-J

a

G, the following changes

In the upper sleeve, point

Line

n and d which narrower nndersleeve.

lines connecting

notice

This

t

is

one

(1)

have been made

inch instead of

and line k and 3^ meets the bottom line a is

parallel to o

12,

The elbow rounding connecting these two

equidistant from 7

is

1

trifle

lines

-]

of an inch distant

passing through the inter-

above

near k

23. is

the

same

as in

lines a g and g h. with tlw (ll)ow In the nndersleeve the nndersleeve. We also notice of narrower the onter curve a show near rounding g, -} an inch from i. of along a a curve g,

Fig. 33.


PARISIAN

34

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

Remeasuring the Upper and Under Sleeves

As tlie arms in different models vary greatly in their development, we must be eareful in our remeasuring in order to make tlie sleeve neither too wide nor too narrow. shows how cumferenee of arm, are to Fig.

If

3")

6.

size of armholi',

lie

I'emeasiired.

14,

length

need he. wi- lengthen or shorten the sleeve a

or widen or narrow

it,

to

make

it

of

little,

underarm,

15,

as the case

may

eir-

he,

correspond to the measurements taken. \Ye must hear in mind, however, that

Fig. 35

the

measure of the

top

of

upper

the that

sleeve,

the

is

sleeve ball, together

with the cut-out of the u n d e r sleeve,

must

a

1

about

ways

two

be

inches

larger than the arm-

measure

hole

taken

on the model. In

finishing

garment, hole

of

be

while

the

the upper

be held

stretched

curve

e

order

in

in,

movement

2

of

arm must ease

;_;ecure

W

e

waist

the

must

to

t li

arm-

the

for

nnist inclies

of

the

add 1\ to

the

th of sleeves for

ng.


PARISIAN Fig.

upper, and

36 shows J>

oui'

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

sleeve

the under sleeve.

pattern without

The heavy

construct ion

liiu^s.

35

A

is

the

an inch in width, uuirk the to 2 inches, as before mentioned, must be lines, f of

allowance for the seams. An extra 1-i allowed at the bottom for inside finishing. Fig.

36.

Possible Changes in the Fashions

The fashions may lujdergo changes, but we must always use the fundamental pattern for the basis for any sleeve, as arms will always have tliL^ same shape, regardless of changes of styles. The length of shoulder may be longer or shorter, but this need not cause any difficulty, as the patterns may easily be changed to accommodate the style in vogue. Our next figures show how these changes are to be made.


36

PARISIAN

LADIES'

Fie.

TAILORING SYSTEM

37

In Fig. 37, A,

Fig.

38

we

upper part of

see the

the front, side, and back of our funda-

mental pattern marked lines

we

see

in

In

full lines.

how

to

make

a

change for a narrower front and back shoulder.

Always bear

in

mind that the

auxil-

iary slioulder lines are the same, and that

only the cut-out of the armliole has been enlarged, thereby forming a larger armhole

and

"We readily see that size of the

narrower

leaving

arm

we must

ball,

in

shoulders. increase the

order to be able

to ease our sleeve properly into the

arm

cut-out of the waist. Fig.

38

shows

us

the

sleeve pattern in full lines

and the newly

formed curve of the armball lines.

fundamental

in


PARISIAN

LADIES'

Fig.

y

TAILORING SYSTEM

39

37


PARISIAN

38

The Fundamental

Now

tliat

Pattern the Basis of Designing and

making

are ready to study the

waists

Making

Pattern

mastered the drafting of our fundamental pattern we

liavc

\v(>

TAILORING SYSl EM

LADIES'

of changes

necessary

form patterns of

to

shirt-

hlouses.

aiiil

We

shall also

.see

how garments may

one-piece sleeve can be drafted from our previotis pattern, and cuffs witli all the multitudinous variations

Of course only

few problems

a

we

are of such a nature that

due

making

shall give tlie

and

collars

these

l)ut

our readers can

feel assitred that the intelligence of

cope with further problems through the study of

We

how

the

changing fashions can be made.

to

construction are illusti'ated.

in

how

he lengthened or shortened,

tliese.

of the sliirtwaist pattern

place in our

first

illus-

trations.

The shows us

Fig. 41

Shirtwaist In

Forms

Different

Its

a shirtwaist pattern,

making

the

of which will be fully

explained.

be advisable, however, for the pupils to study Figs. 42. 43. 44,

A\(.iuld

It

together with 41.

we have

In Fig. 42

pattern (in

along

lines)

A— B.

and

A—B

of center front waist line measures

d on

A—

Note that the dart

('.

a

position

two

we

line

f

We

e

g,

as

left in the pattern,

position

e

—— f

falls

the point

from

but as they are

shown

From

e.

f

measure

one (1) unit part of the

g. ecpials to

in

lines.

fundamental pattern, the extra allowance falling from d

is

c.

front of our shirt-

three (3) tmit parts of our scale of width larger than that of our

is

From d

point

an angle that

readily understand that the waist measure of the

waist pattern

we note

shoulder

the

b.

at such

ignore them.

prolonged, a distance to

and connect

scale of width,

Place the fundamental

unit parts of our scale of width

('2)

Our fundamental pattern now takes c

that

A— C

have been

lines

of no value in our present problem,

along the

A — C.

perpendictdar to

such

in

in

sleeves.

the neck cut-out along

a,

made

order to familiarize themselves Avith the changes

in

and upper and lower

front, back, side,

to

C measure two

our waist

draw u

inches and

This extra length

line.

may

v.

to e

and

f to g.

parallel to d

g.

which

be gathered for peplum above

or below skirt.

From draw

point

the

L

a little to the right of the middle of the neck rounding a

line line b

—F.

L

— —F p

in

y,

to

from the shoulder to a point lower down

shows a deeper cut-out. b

form the V-shaped neck, shown

The triangle L lines

—— ci

show how

y,

lapels

the

lines

in

couhl be

made L

bending instead of cutting the pattern along the respective lines

front

b,

The

in Fig. 41.

line,

and triangle if

desired,

y and b

by

—F.


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM


PARISIAN

40

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

A —B

Fig. 43 shows our periH-udieular

A — C.

to

mental liaek pattern so that the neck rounding should our center back at the waist

a position that k,

line,

at

lie

and

i

two

falls

our

place

"VVe

funda-

such

in

h,

unit parts of

(2)

our scale of width from n.

We and

next place the side piece to the back so that the two pieces join at m,

of the side piece falls at a distance of one

1

width from

j.

From

and from

to

s

This extra allowance

X

made

oiu'

is

unit part of our scale of width.

(1)

play

to give freer

parallel to the waist line

z.

t

—n

tions to the pattern in

In Fig. 43

we

is

shown

to

side,

as

garment. The

tight-fitting

of the fundamental pattern,

Our fundamental pattern

the front.

and

arndiole

the

for

and gives an allowance of two inches

line, in

is

to r

t

must be more roomy than the ordinary

the shirtwaist line

unit part of our scale of

(1)

shown

is

in

correspond to the changes lines

and the addi-

a one-piece pattern

by joining the

in

lines.

we have made

notice that

The new pattern

three

(3)

nnit

parts of our scale of width wider than the original, as explained above.

If,

how-

we

ever,

fundamental pattern.

of our

and back

side

we

the back in one piece

Avish

is

along the length-

lay our pattern just

wise fold of our material.

In Fig. 44 Ave see the upper and under sleeve

our armhole Ave haA-e

Fig. 43 has been

in

added

]

nmde

inch to each of our seams in order to

except along the shoulders, front, and back, where

Along the front the

4

Ave

make an

:|

extra albiA\anee

lines

alloAved.

is

inches

Ij

as

that

changed armhole.

tliis

fit

inch of

But

lines.

in

in

addition

to

sleeves

as

inch already allowed, to be used as facing.

We Ave

in

larger Ave shoAv

shoAV the construction of collars,

Avill

cufifs,

and

(litf<'rent

proceed further. In Fig. 45 AVe give an example of a Avaist with slight changes in the con-

struction. otherAvise

pattern.

In

all

changes are the

Fit;'.

46 the neck cut-out d Avidtli

If Ave cut

slope in toward

along

f

line

e

— C,

A — ('.

parallel

lines

Tliis increase. hoAvever,

way is

it

to

A—

only

(',

lines, Avill

Avhich

e.

This point

as shoAvn in

the Avaist, Avhile the otlicr

line, as in Fig. 45.

continued to point

is

from the

nected Avith g as shoAvn in ('.

as in our

contiinu'

made on

e

Avhich

left off.

left

in this Avay

turn

in

is

Avill

a straight

the right side, as only

be not only useless, Init in the Avay and, therefore, should be cut

should lap over,

Tlu- extra material

in

be con-

our lap-OA'er

down

(2)

is tAA'o

may

on the

this

former

foUoAving:

Thi'

unit parts of our scab' of

joined to

made

the same measurements are to be

side Avould

In Fig. 47 Ave see the same pattern to the waist line as given in our illuslines on the shouder. corresponding to tration. Avith the adilition of the

our front

iiart.


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

41


PARISIAN

42

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

Fig 48 shows how the front and liack part meet along

and

gives

also

The

side of the seam.

eithei'

shoulder

formation of an extra

the

liiii's

strap

Fig. 46

in

— 47

on front and back to make the shoulder illustrated

falls

shows a

Fig. 49

low

eollar-eut in

In Fig.

"(O

with three

Avaist

we observe

Fig.

and back, with a

front

in

V

to give the correct

o,

shown

and the

f

room i of

may

the pattern, but

in

to

These inserts are

pleats.

The

Fig. 49.

in

form the

needed

one

is

lines parallel

indicate where the original pattern sliould be cut to give serts that are

this strap

4.'i.

that the neek rounding extends to n, which

one and one-half inches (11) from

f.

show where

in

on

lines

front.

and onedialf inches (H) from line

pleats

(:>)

center shoulder,

tlie

in

make

to

an inch

to

it,

the in-

in

width

be increased or diminished according to the width of the

]deats desired.

Fig. 51

shows how our

and

Fig. 52 shows the back pattern with ]ileats to

nmtch the

This pattern

front.

on cither

lines

and the pleat stitched along the

side are brought together,

The

iiattern cut with the extra allowance appears.

heavy line represents the fold, while the

lines.

marking

lines

places

for

increased exactly in the same fashion

is

as the front.

Fig.

").'!

Our figure shoMs

back, or on either side only.

gathered instead, both

in

The sleeve shown

for

/„

s

Tile

f

The short

lines,

neck

the

shoAvs

line

different styles of yokes, nanu'ly

jiarallel

=^=

vertical lini's

lines

mark

Fig. 55 shows the lines:

the curve that

We in

e

and the

i

\-oke position after proper liending

has a wide bottom curve, but could be

made

later.

the

The

cut.

v

—x —

deep,

indicate

f

the

shorter,

the

cut

and

the

yoke.

<'Ui'\'e(l

in

and

front

in

pleats, but this fullness could be

in the Ijack.

line to line

the

tlii'ee

tile

and

in this figure

Fig. 54 the

In

Y—

111,,,

front

shown

differently, as will be

which can be nuide

a yoke,

shows us a waist with

c

is

1,

an

above

inch

v

z,

indicate

the

deep

along both cut edges for seams.

the pleats.

back with the the shorter,

necessary to

must not forget

g.

in of niati'rial

i-elative

in

form

in Figs. 45, 49,

connection with Fig. 41, namely

-• a

yoke

cuts;

lines,

and

— h—

o

1,

t

point at the center back,

53,

to nnd^e the allowance

f of an inch for side seams,

'}

the

deep,

in if

desired.

mentioned

of an inch for

shoulder, center of the back and front, 11 inches in addition to the above men-

tioned

low

5

tlie

of an inch along the front for facing,

waist line.

and 2 inches for extra length be-


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

43


44

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM


PARISIAN

1

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

/^^^^--^.~-.________^-rrx

45


PARISIAN

46

LADIES"

and under

Fig. 56 shows us an upper

reduced

A — B,

Avith reference to tlie liorizontal line

indicate

larged armliole of

mark

the

figure

lines

The

waist.

shirt

Fig. 57 shows us the

a.xis line

A— B,

,

tliat

may

the sleeve

u

and

,

the en-

fit

w

be desired.

and the original fundamental sleeve

we

addition

the

see

the upper part, to conform

in

make

lines a

and widths

In full lines

lines.

sleeve pattern

are each 3J

the original sleeve pattern, while the

necessary to

allowance

the

tlie

pattern in

H

that the points 8 and

show

lines

full

different sleeve lengths

tlie

such a position

in

A — B.

inches from the axis the

sleeve of our fundamental pattern

The two parts are placed

to one-eighth of full size.

In

TAILORING SYSTEM

with

made

widen the

to

armhole of the

Avider

tlie

waist.

The sleeve pattern has been so placed that and

A—B

from the central axis

s

higher or lower as desired, Fig.

58

shows us the center

undersleeves. in

s— s

from L

line

to s

demonstrate the fact that the width of

tance

s

tlie

—X

equals

add the curve

We

tlie

distance

f

we

t

is

or

made

s

cut

equal to o

t,

The point

away a.

parallel to our central line

is

collars.

sleeve.

are

It is

A—B,

shown here

one-piece sleeve at the bottom,

tlie

that

is,

is

the dis-

upper x.

sleeve, to

which

shirt waist sleeve

is

r.

give the

we must correct arm

but

the same distance from s as

which may be gathered

at

the

shorter for an attached cuff.

now prepared

The construction of garment.

For a

of

tlie

fit

a higher cut garment.

to

collar

We

consider the construction of different styles of collar

a

Construction

which

always depends upon the cut-out or lapel will

fit

perfectly a low cut neck, will never

must therefore always consider how deep or high

the cut-out of our garment will be. in order to

we

upper

the part beyond curve a

to the

Collar

We

can be placed

r.

connected with

have now a one-piece

liottom

e

in eitlier of these styles.

bottom width of upper and under sleeve together;

In the undersleeve

measure.

and

s

and our fundamental upper and

to be used only as the dividing line of the

is

equal to

r.

A—B,

c

points

are respectively 34 inches from the center line.

The

to

made

tlie

lines.

Tlie points

and

line

is

distance of

The point

Si inches.

is

the sleeve

if

tlie

shall see in the

accompanying

make

a perfect fitting collar, as

figures.

Fig. 59 illustrates the formation of different collars, suitable for shirt waists

and

dresses.

The front and back pieces of the fundamental pattern have been

placed shoulder to shoulder for the construction of onr collars.


PARISIAN

o-

n-

m c n m

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

47


PARISIAN

48

In the front pattern the line

neck, and the sluuled

form a

from

Now

lapel.

b to

from g

lines,

= = ==

we

tluit

to

along

in

1

to

f

neck

the

and

lines

the

of

cut-out

to

1

a

b,

the center

e,

Another can be traced from lines,

and

lines,

d to

in

i

cut-out

either eut otf or bent back to

is

see one collar pattern.

from

lines,

pointed

I'epresents tlie

1)

triangle that part

in

lines,

in

f

._.

a

following- the neck rounding,

b to g in

back, in

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

from

in

e

to

i

lines.

another follows the curve

Still

l.i

=

= = =

<1

and

e

to

e

in

c

lines.

however, the turn back lapel

If.

shaped

in

point

the lines

of this

and

We

front.

tlie

to

lines

in

same

to c along the

i

the collar must be dififerently

desired,

is

notice one that, including the lapel in front, follows

then proceeds from

f,

one

lines as

of

the

f

to

in

i

previously

collars

con-

sidered.

A

differently shaped one starts

and up

to

and

i

and one

c

from the lapel point

-

in

lines to

t

to

in

f

and from

e

to

e

the

c,

center bar!;. Fig. 60

neck

shows us more plainly that a

never

will

We

fit

From pointed to

d.

there

style follows a in

no extra

^ ^^^

see a

is

we make

one

is

shawl collar rounded

i,

and

•-

in

collar

a

and

from

a to the

through

lines to k,

A

A

the back or

in

lines

to

to the point,

Here

e.

also

lines to c

1i

lines to

in

lines to

in

1)

1

j.

—g

and

f.

and from

fit

j

point of the shaded to

h,

i

to

and from

we cannot

e,

fail

to

a high neck.

—— e

over

lapel,

f,

and

i,

in :::::::: lines to d,

is

shown

we have

in

a collar with

from there

to

j,

lines.

Start-

many

points.

and then

in

1.

smalliM- collar

lines to r

b in

= = =:=

show another from b

lines to

bent

is

e.

In Fig. 61 the neck cut-out from a to b

We

which

necessary.

extending from

seen

observe that this collar will not

in

to b,

a

and then proceeds along the lapel

b.

lines to

lines to h

there in

ing at b

from

lines, if desii-ed.

another shape ean be ti'aeed from

in

If

high cut

a

fits

lapel.

dif'fci'eiit

Still

we

c,

In this case no lapel

Another

A

to

in

1)

and from there is

which perfectly

notice in this figure a very low neck cut

over for the lapel, as indicated in shaded

there

collar

a lower eut-out, or visa versa.

and

collar

can be traced from b

in

==•=•=

to c

and

in

n.

rounded lines

in front

and square

in the liack is

over the rounding to h and

1.

shown starting from


PARISIAN

Fig.62

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

POCKETS

Reduced to One Fourth

49


— PARISIAN

50

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES"

Pockets lu

Fig'.

62

we

give several styles of pockets, and iu the lowest

row three

different styles of pocket laps.

In the

row we

first

see the finished pockets

a,

b and

c,

and below,

indi-

cated by the same letters, the patterns for these pockets. The little rounding at tlu' top of tlie finislied pockets we can easily make ))y cutting, as .shown in the un-

But we can

finished pocket.

also

make

the same straight along

tlie

top, if

we

so

desire.

and

d. e

f

are finished pockets, and below, designated by the same letters,

The finished pocket show the place of gathering.

are patterns for the same. lines in the pattern

In Fig. 62A

we

belongs iu the jacket,

see

how we

e

is

gathered, and the =----===

find the position of the pocket, that

is

where

it

skirt, or dress.

lines full lines Fig. 62A shows us a front of a jacket, and in point the higliest of the arndiall with to pattern placed upper sleeve an we see seam. shoulder front of our point the lowest

In

The pocket full

is

then placed about two (2) inches above the lower end of the

length sleeve.

Cuffs and Sleeves In Fig. 63

we again show

and

different sleeves

strate the cutting of a one-piece sleeve

from

a

cuffs,

and again demon-

two-piece one.

—b —

e, and d, show us four sleeves in one piece (as shown used here are constructed as shown in cuff's a b d. The The b and c, in the figure. cuff' are cut respectively as a construction lines E T R. from the lower to the upper cut. are one (1) inch apart to give the necessary fiare needed, so that the upper cuff should not lie flat over the lower one.

In this figure, a

The upper the tops of in Fig. 58).

p^lo-.

e

lines

——

— gg—h ——

tion under e

——

cuff's

h.

shows three Tlie

and the upper sleeve

dift'erent cuff's, of

uudersleeve in in

full lines.

which we show the construc-

pattern

this

is

marked

Tlie sleeves are placed

in

with under arm

The same patin full lines is the pattern for cuff' e. seams joining. Cuff' g for cuff iu li, is used h. In the shown e as the top, at tern, but pointed This lines, is the pattern for in partly and g. full in same figure, partly under and therefore extends from sleeve of the center the cuff has its seam in

F

to

F

beyond.

The construction

of sleeve

The dotted curves from bell

r to

f— i—k s,

su])ply

through tlie

i

—i—

k.

A — B.

show the required shape for added to our upper sleeve three (3) tucks shown iu f.

and k. about identical with Fig. the same way as sleeve f.

Sleeves sleeve in

illustrated iu Fig. f

The heavy dotted

shaped portion of sleeve tlie extra width necessary to make f.

is

lines

57,

are widened in the upper


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

51


PARISIAN

52

The Cutting

A

cau be made

skii't

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

of a Circular Skirt Pattern

more

in one, two, three or

width of the

pieces, but tlie

bottom depends npon prevailing fashion.

we

First

endeavor to show how to cut

will

Remember

a

circular skirt.

are cut and rcuieasured in inches, as taken on the

all skirts

that

pattern for

a

model for wliom they are intended.

We structed,

have shown previously in Fig. 12 and

and we

the thumb

we had made

recall that

of the left hand,

forming the

this

13,

how

the waist line

is

con-

with a piece of thread held with

and a pointed pencil

looped

througli

thread

the

arc.

On

in Fig. 64.

A—

line

point a eighteen

Seven

inches from point A.

(18)

the starting point of the

Next holding the

—C as shown

we form the perpendicular A B to A B mark point x 2 inches from A. On line

Witli the tailors' square

(7)

A— C

inches from

a,

mark mark f,

liip line.

tliread circle

maker

mark

point of the pencil start at a and

We

oft'

at x, Avith the left

arc a

e

thumb, with the

for the waist line.

Form

the

next proceed to build our pattern from the

g in the same manner. f measurement of the model previously taken.

hip line

In Fig. 64 our model measurements are used.

Length of

skirt.

:;{6

inches in front.

Lengtli of side. 36^ inches. (13 inches one-lialf of

Waist measure, 26 inches.

measure).

of back, 37 inches.

Length

Hip measure, 40

From

tlie

a

along a

(20 inches onc-lialf of the measure).

inches.

—C

measure the front length of

tlie

skirt

(36

inches

in

the figure.)

P^rom

measure f.

mark

a, in

(i:> oft'

a curve along

tlie

inches in the figure

"i.

waist

line,

measure one-half around the waist

marking the point

e.

Along

tlu'

hip line from

at g onedialf of the hip measure (20 inches in the figure).

The point

c,

line, as this line is

eciiiidistant

invariably

and

marks the starting point

from

a,

lialf

way between

e,

tlie

of our side

center front and the center

back.

As we

We

liave licfore mentioned, the skirt

use for our model here

lati'r

show how

this

may

a

widths vary with fashion's dictates.

bottom width of two and one-half (24) yards, and

be increased or diminished.

From C which marks

the length of the skirt at the center front, measure

along a slight curve a distance of 22} inches, or one-half the width of the half skirt,

marking the point

n.

From n

in this

way

rei^eat this

measurement

to

i.


PARISIAN

LADIES-

TAILORING SYSTEM

53


— TAILORING SYSTEM

PARISIAN LADIES'

54 Connect line

with

e

and

n,

and center

and

e

our

liack of

g-

witli

Tliese lines give us respectively the side

i.

Along

skirt.

the

si<lc

mark

lini'

distance equal

off a

to tile side length

measurement of the model (here

back measure

the reqiiired length of back for the model (37 inches in figure).

oft'

Be careful

remeasure

to

Now draw

secure accuracy.

to

connecting the points marked to form the bottom sweep of the

As

The

we must allow

patterns are without seams,

all

make an extra allowance

seams, and

finished skirt

same, we will find

Above

line,

shown

is

in Fig.

we

and liottom for the hem.

The pockets, should we desire the

(if).

notice yoke patterns in

and the other pointed

exactly to the rounding of our waist

the

in

and

line,

fit

skirt, differently constructed,

to a, along

A — C,

and from

a,

A — P>

These yokes

front.

back of the

we

In Fig. 66

to

A

made mark

the point just

are

cut

if

oft'

be

will

skirt,

same circular

see the

A we

Fi-om

('.

circular

is

smoothly to the body.

but giving us the same results

have the perpendicular

One

lines.

Furtlicr necessary explanation relative to the

given in the discussion following Fig. 66.

We

an inch for these

of

§

the bottom curve,

skirt.

Fig. 62.

64,

P'ig.

with the waist

in

at the top

Along the center

inches).

'-'iGl

compared.

measure four inches

C

at

equal

a distance

to the length of the front.

Next from

half around the waist measure lines,

As same

the width of this skirt

c,

measure on

o,

make tills

is

On

a

line

identical

c.

two

a

e

with

o.

-witJi

side,

that

of Fig.

of back

our method

65.

and lower sweep

a perpeiidii'ular 2 inches to

the

is

Connect a and

c.

between

tlie

back at the waist

line,

possible

to is

by

r

and

s

marking the length of

at the

made

line.

If the skirt

make

the skirt narrower.

is

shown meeting the waist

l)ottoin

in

the hip

line on(>-half of

made exactly

l:-!

(^) of an inch at

e.

inches,

fit.

in

Tims we

by the cut-out of one

line. o,

c,

n,

we

see

of the skirt, meeting one an-

This triangle shows the part to be eliminated parts, in order to insure a perfect

necessary

In Fig. 66 below

side

two parts these

From

is

it

and the heavy

dotted

line

e

line.

in in the center

either side of the

small triangle

is

V

lines nuirked

is

Connect

small cut-out from the straiglit length of the back.

indicated as a

other at the hip

of

is

this

with a curve to form the waist

As the body curves

the

a distance equal to one-

e

as previously given.

through

to

off at

(13 inches in the illustration).

and mark the center of

Fr(un point

it

mark

procedure to secure propi'r length of

of

e,

A —B

slant along

a. in a

(1)

to

an

lines indicate

the

incli

waist

inch at

c,

line,

a

on either side

case the skirt

find that our

how

is

made

in

curved waist

and of one-half


PARISIAN Both of our

illustrations 64

and 66 could be cut

cut in one piece, the lengtli of front cut in

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

is

placed on

the

in

fold

55

one or two pieces. of

the

nuiterial.

If If

two pieces, both front and back are placed on the fold and as a result

the two bias pieces meet at the sides.

Care must be taken

to

tape both of these

seams, to prevent sagging of the material. Fig.

H

shows

a belt in the

shapes are marked in

and

heavy

lines.

lines.

Two

yokes

in

different

These are formed ou the same

principle as Fig. 66.

Fig.

sFig.66

pointed


PARISIAN

56

The Cutting "We

In order to be able to divide

])lrated skirt.

we must

]ii-oportions

Gored and Pleated

of the

decide upon

widths of our gores in proper

tlie

width of the skirt ai'ound

tlie

Pig. 67 sliows a four-gorinl skirt measuring

around

two and

bottom.

tlu=

one-ludf

they are cut from nuiterial

Tlie gores slunv

Ixittom.

tin'

Skirt

thv desiguiny and cutting of the gored skirt, and the

lU'iiioustratc

iK.'xt

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

.')()

inches wide.

This skirt consists of a front piece cut on the fold, a side part, and

The same

part cut on the fold.

We from our

mention again that

in cutting the goods.

Fi'om

apart.

6SA shows

Fig,

A— C

along liue

measure

s

ofl the

A—C

From half of

A—B,

mark points

e

—r—

s,

three-fourth (f ) of an inch

length of the front along

A— C

to

this

line

From

the

measure

J

('.

C"

unvisure 16 inches to

bottdiii

tlir

from measurenu'nts taken

perpendicular to

dotted auxiliary line (36 inches in the illustration). of an inch to

back

gathered.

skirt patterns are cut

all

a

and are without seam or hem allowance, which must be added

figure,

From A

sliglitly

is

yards

(2i)

on the auxiliary

i

-width of the front gore,

as

Tins gives us the

liue.

center front

tlie

is

on the

laid

fold of the material.

A— B

Along

From

i

—o

curved

along

B shows m — n

and li inches

and from g to

fi-om

to

H

are

make

From

waist

liiu'

h to

(^'oiuiect

h

—k a

ferent gores

4.^

AVe notice that fi'om u.

We

the rounding u E,

Connect o and

o.

Connect

s

E

The waist

i.

with a

line s

to<

A — C,

g and 'S

Measure 16 inches from n

The

j.

from

cut-outs

inches together.

m

to

E

,i

E

to

Thus our waist

parallel to

A — B,

The bottom is

liue

This width

back gore.

If

we add

from k

line

to

1

is

made, which leaves 12} inches

we gather tlie

to

one-third,

which

waist measures of the dif-

inches, plus 4i inches, plus 4 inches, our total half waist

13 inches, which we

made

inches.

1-^

cut-out of 11 inches

gives us a waist measure of 4 inches.

is

marking point

inches.

t.

of the

parallel

inches each, or

4,^

C shows

Fig. 6S,

tlie

E

to g,

ni

E measures

14 inches. for

A

a distance of

inches.

Fig. 6S,

from E

E

in to

Fi'om the hip point u

line,

measui'e 4^

nu^asure 6 inches from

measure

r

measure

find correct for this model, all

This point

our cut-outs at the waist is

line in Fig,

68

A—B— C

are

the hip liue 7 inches below the Avaist line.

ol)serve also that the

bottom of gores

auxiliary lines, and the Imck gore

is

left straight

A

and B are rounded

on the bottom.

to

the


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

57

t/i-n^

From- E -To- 11 -Same as From- e -To -j -

.

X m a

c n

Length

of Sides

..sy. CR

FROM-t- TO -l^- SAME AS FROM- E-TO-

j

-

n

CENTER

Length of Back

on

^a


PARISIAN

58

A— B — C

Tlie sides of patterns

shown

are the same length as

-

The

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

in

B

lines in

marked

are

to sliow joining seams, wliich

the figures.

which we remeasure the

indicate the line along

length of side.

The short Fig. 69

parallel lines in

C

indicate gathers.

shows us practically the saun'

that Fig. 67

and 68 gave a four-gored

This change

is

partly due to fashion and jiartly to

this

A—B

A

and the lengths from

The bottom of the front and back gores.

m

to C,

A— C

to

skirt

and

to n, x to

is

2:i

tJie

li

A

to e

—— r

s,

unchanged.

to k, aiT

yards wide, there being 20 inches each

the side gores (the two in the pattern are cut double

is

jiiecing.

and 10

of whicli are laid on folds,

l>otli

six gores.

in

that the material

measurements from

anil

a,

skirt

a

is

fact

thi'

too narrow to permit cutting a wider pattern without

The perpendicular

oidy difference being

skirt, the

etit'ect

whereas

skirt,

in

each of

inclu'S in

we must remember).

This

gives us a total of SO inches, about 2j yards for the bottom of the skirt.

At

the top of Fig. 70. A, from

inches, in C,

from x

to z 6 inches,

A

and

— u — E. g — u — E. m — u — E. x — u — E. Adding the

width.

front

to

o

is

4 inches,

in T). fi'om h to

z^u — E and

and side waist

h

B

10 inches.

—u —

t

line nn_-asurements

m

from

B,

in

g 6

to

The cut-outs

are each 1] inches in

we

get 9 inches.

This

plus the back gore gathered to four inches, gives IS inches for half of the waist

measurement. Further

we

Ave

observe the

from

lines

foIloAv sliould Ml- desire to leave out the

w

to

gathering

in

k,

pattern

in

the

D.

back, and

which

make

a

fitting back.

Fig. 71

shows

a

plaited skirt.

There plaits can be made closer together

or farther apart as desired. Fig. 72

from

A

to

B

gives a pattern of a plain plaited skirt.

front fold forms a box plait, with the plaits on both sides facing Fig. 73

shows

l)ox

plaits wiiich can

lie

jilaced

closei'

oi-

The center back.

tin-

farther

apart

as

desired.

In the next few lessons

we

will

show how

to

diangc

waist pattern, to one witli seams running to the shouldiT botli

We

will also

endeavor

to

ing different skirts and waists.

show how

to

make

our

fundamental

in front

a variety of dresses

and back.

by combin-


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

59

From- J^ -To -t- Same as From E-To-C-

Cente â&#x20AC;&#x17E;

Length of Back

on Fold

D3


60

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

anod NO

PQ

>i3j.Na3

\....

.

X h X

o

u z

CO

bJDa

bJD

-U

N

anoj NO

d3i.N30

-<

2

-

-c/i


PARISIAN

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

Changes from the Fundamental Pattern to a Pattern Seamed Front and Back

61

to the

Shoulder

in

and a waists with seams These seams take the place of the usual dart, and extend entirely to the shoulder, thereby giving a longer line effect. Fig. 76 shows a skirt with a yoke pointed in front,

to the shoulder both in front

and back.

Fig. 74 shows the perpendicular

A—B

to

A— C,

tern in full lines, the former basque front in line of the dart in

lines

from

lines

i

Then draAv the

a

e,

and the front

j.

From point on the shoulder line, Avhieh width distant from the armhole, connect i j in line.

the fundamental waist pat-

slightly bov.'-shaped line

i

is

two unit parts of our lines

j,

in full lines, so that o is one-

half (i) of an inch to tlic left of the eonsti'uction line. dart with a slight rounding.

Cutting along the full lines we have with seams reaching to the shoulder.

now

scale of

for a construction

Connect o and the second

divided our front into two pieces

Fig. 75 illustrates the formation of a back pattern with seams reaching

from

the waist to the shoulder.

The fiuidamental shirt waist back connected with side part pattern is shown in full lines. The line t s is the basque back, originally made. lines indicate the joining of side and back of the original basque The to from the one-piece shirt waist back.

From

two unit parts of the scale of width lines. Next draw the full line h g, curved about one-half (1) of an inch slightly to the right. Connect the former side lines with this line, as high up as it formerly reached in the arm rounding. Cutting along this line will give ns a two-piece back with a seam from the shoulder point h on the shoulder

from the armhole, draw h

—g

line,

in

to the waist.

In both Fig. 74 and 75 the waist extends only to the waist

add about two inches and to finish neatly.

As mentioned of buttons

before

and button

line.

to this length in order to properly connect waist

we must allow

holes, in the front

for all seams.

We and

must .skirt,

For the proper lapping

we must have an

additional allowance

or provide a separate piece for facing.

We

must

also

mention here that the point of the cut-out of the neck,

is

invariably the point where the collar starts.

In Fig. 77

we

shoAV a dress Avith yoke in front and back, and plaited both in

front and back below the yoke.

made from

This

is

and bodice The bodice and skirt are

a combination plaited skirt,

a shirt Avaist pattern, Avith collar as desired.

joined at the Avaist line to the belt of the skirt.

and shirt Avaist. extended to the desired length. The around the Avaist line, and ties in front. Fig. 79 is a dress made from a shirt Avaist pattern and a plain skirt joined at the Avaist line. The belt ties in front, and a pocket is placed on the right side. Fig. 80 is also a combination of a simple shirtAvaist and a plain skirt. It is made Avith a belt pointed in front and can have any desired collar shoAATi in Fig. 78

is

a plain skirt

belt reaches twice

Figs. 59, 60,

6L


PARISIAN

62

CQ

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM


PARISIAN

LADIES-

TAILORING SYSTEM

63


64

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

Arranging the Fundamental Pattern for

Suits,

Jackets and Outer Garments

In this As wo all know a ladies' suit consists of a skirt and jacket. chapter we will consider the changes necessary to plan a suit using our fundamental pattern. Our shirtwaist pattern as previously shown, will give any kind of loose jacket with plaits or shirrings in front, or in the back, or in both of these parts. In Fig. Si we give a jacket of a suit, which resembles Fig. 74, the only difference being that the pattern in Fig 74 is constructed only to the waist line, while Fig. 81 is made to the hip line. All explanations and measurements are the same as previously given.

A

REDUCED TO ONE FOURTH

C o

c O

111

C


PARISIAN

We

notice also in Pig. 81 a piece

of the front part, but

from

A

to

lAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

C

is

only

2iV

marked front facing-, wliicli is a dnplicate To this we must make all additions

inches wide.

as exijlained with reference to the front in Fig. 74.

Fig. 82 shows ns the side and back part put together the 75,

65

but instead of drafting the pattern to the waist

we

line,

same

as in Fig.

continue

to the

it

hip line. In Fig. 75 the side part, as

and the Avidth the back from h to line,

we

extends from h to

notice,

of the back at the Avaist line t is

just as wide as

from g

from g

to

r,

the

at

z

that

waist

to say, that

is

to r with a little curving in be-

tween.

u

B

A

We

notice in Fig. 82 the

construction

The point t

1

line connecting h 1. could be brought either

to the i-ight or left

without

l^osition.

of

its

of the pattern.

smaller at the waist

1

back

at

line.

x.

our cut-out,

From

z.

tlie

making our back

line thus

The distance

shape

position deter-

Its

mines the narroAvness of

equal to g

present

aft'ecting the

draw

x

is

the

heavy curve parallel to z h meeting the back about at the same height as formerly, and forming a new side line which folloAvs the exact curve of the other, x and 1

are connected with

w

at

the hip

line.

We

notice noAV that the pattern

broad across the shoulder blade in the back and curves in to a narrow waist line. Through this change the side part is Avider than formerly.

is

Fig. 81 and 82 shoAV a jacket seamed from the slioulder both in front and back, extending to the liip This in line, or any length desired.

coiniection Avith a skirt gi\'es us a tAvo-piece cuffs,

suit.

and suitable

cordance made.

Avith

Sleeves,

pockets,

collar, are in ac-

explanation previous-

ly

Hyp

w Reduced to One Fourtfh

-ine

Before Ave jDroceed any further,

C

hoAvcA'er, Ave Avill consider the

ing of tailor-made collars.

mak-


— PARISIAN

66

The Cutting

in

In a

and

there are two sets of

li

The length

of these lines

how

see in the pattern In

wr

a.

the collar

a

and

rounded,

is

b

have the same measurements.

lines in each set h'ligtli

made

is

i of

is

of the collar,

an inch.

namely

60 inches.

around them.

shap(Ml

is

that a rounding

notici'

that

auxiliary lines placed two inches

the half

is

except

notice, they

Otlierwise. as

The distance between the two

apart.

We

we

I'ront.

pointed or roniided top.

a

M"itli

diagrams a and b are the same

Tile

pointed

Collars for Tailored Suits and Cloaks

of

83 "we see a standing collar

Fig'.

111

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

front and in

in

that

b,

:,'

of an

inch on each half collar has been a(bled in front for buttons and buttonholes. Fig. d

and

Diagrams is

sliow a poinfrd and

i-

roundi'd collar.

a

and d explain how these are made.

c

The center

line

2i inches from the base, and the top 2 inches from this center line.

The rounded upper cut-out

connected

is

Avitli

the upper curve of the stand-

ing collar, and as botli are the same width, they will

fit

exactly leaving the extra

allowance free for buttons and Intttonholes.

Diagram

presents a front with a

e,

we

In full lines

lines.

in

how

see

and

la]iel

a

tailored turn-down

collar

the collar appears turned over in po-

sition.

In

we

liiii-s

extra front facing must also

For

collar pattern

A— 0,

of an inch below

half

way

between E and A:

At

O and

tli(>

correct shape fold

part a

is

drawn

and

51-

in

tlic

—A

s]lo^^•n

collar in

pieces.

however, the collar

If

is

N

placed

on line

—A

meeting

The

i-oljar.

D, with eur\'cs as

U

J

li inches above

inches to the left of A. Point

notice a triangular cut whi<-h

two

Line

A—

paralbd to

From N draw curve N

O and we

S^ inehes long.

line I)

gives the bend of

liardv

made

A—O

line it,

garment.

is

half

U

is

way

completed by

the figure. gives the collar the is

cut in one, on a

— A — U, the lower portion N — A V must be pressed in. while tlie upper X — O — D — A must be strrtcheil. to secure the jiroper rounding needed for

at 1)

good

tit.

Fig.

f,

In the

shows the same coat with

working diagram

J inches below

same

tliis

T. and

center if

draw

and E.

lietweeii

connecting

e,

cut for the

lie

parallel to

The perpendicular E

it.

An

see an allowance oi 11 inehes for lapping in front.

as in Fig.

— A, e,

inch from the top.

and

D

f,

A— O

shawl

a is

Ti inehes above

previously shown.

eollar.

10' inches long,

The curve O

The same principle applies

E

5i inches from A.

The lower curve on

it.

—D

to the

the center back as previously explained for Fig.

e.

crosses line

E

is

U

the

about

-J

shaping of this eollar at


PARISIAN

Fig. 8 3

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

COLLARS.

Reduced to One Fourth

67


PARISIAN

68

In diagi-ain

g.

Ave

Diagram

shows

h,

we have added The

pointed lapel.

must not omit

A

as

diagram

a piece at the neck collar

shows

a suit coat.

turned-down

same

the

iis

collar as exijlaiued in

same

the

is

as in

order to

is

see in

lines

and

longer

a

more

correspond with

it

we

h.

IS inches long which can also be

turned

has

back

and

cufifs.

high

collar.

84 F, shows the fundamental front

There

get

to

In cutting our front facing

e.

make

and

tight fitting

we

but

e,

cut-out.

a tailor-made jacket,

It is

except that here

e,

rounded.

is

this extra piece, in

Fig. 84,

used for

same

see the

the lapel as well as the collar

that

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

also a

with

'lattern

darts

in

lines.

marking the seamed front from the dart

line

lines

to

Either front can be used for the pattern.

shoulder.

The cut-out

for the

G

side,

neck

the fi'ont

in

always the starting point of the

is

collar.

shows thr

and

II tin'

back of the fundamental pattern

in

lines.

TIu' waist

with

lini' in

F— G and

II is

marked with

lines,

and the hip

lines.

Along wide for the

slit

if

H

we notice below we intend to make one.

center back in

tlie

All parts of Fig. 84

F

one and one-half (II) inch

—G

and

in front

the waist line a tlap one inch

are without scams which

II

we must add:

and an extra facing as explained

in Fig.

81

being needed.

R

and

N

are the patterns of the two-piece sleeve used in this jacket.

Fig. 85 shows an IS-inch jacket semi-iltting in back and loose in front.

N

is

F— G and

and

a pattern of a front facing,

pattern to the waist line in

lines

with

show the fundamental

II

collar

and

lapel

likewise

so

marked.

F

shows

tile

right angle cutting through the starting point of the collar

and the extra inch and one-half added from the fundamental pattern

to the iiei'iiendicular

with previously given patterns,

shown

As the distance

in front.

we

readily

is

how we

see

of

also allowed in secui'e

the

two

inches,

accordance loose

front

A.

in

In II the back piece, the

same allowance of two inches

at

the Avaist line,

which has previously lieen explained, gives the looser back.

D lieen

is

a pocket.

O

a enlf,

and

previously explained in Fig. Fig. 86,

A

R

a collar,

8.3

shows a loose jacket

tlie

belt

and pockets.

liave

e.

to be

used either for a suit or coat.

18 inches long, extending 10 inclies below the

made with

measurements for which

waist

line.

Our

It

is

illustration

is


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

/

I

N

R /

'

/

/

;

/

/

/

/ /

/ /

/

Fig. 84

•-• I

I

' )

\

;

\

/

/

\

.

]•

y-

69

* I

I

Reduced to One Sixth


PARISIAN

70

We lines

and

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

see in

F and 6

the fundamental pattern to the waist line in

as this

garment

is

we have added two

cut on the order of a waist,

and

for buttons

liuttonholes.

The tailored

show how

lapel

and

the neck

collar begin at

cut-out; the

from the armliole

have allowed one unit part

down the length of this garment as exjilaiucd in former we have made the seamed front, F and G must each be cut

H which

D

and

H

lines in is

lines

these look Avhen finished.

G we

In

(2)

and an extra allowance

unit parts of our scale of Avidth at the waist line in front

the

waist

line,

and as

constructions separately.

seam from the shoulder, and the

are also separated by the

show the allowance necessary

to

conform with the waist pattern.

to

D,

a straight back, should be cut on the fold at the center back.

R

In

and

the allowance of

N

the upper and nndersleeve patterns,

seam made

of an inch on each

|-

we

notice in

lines

upper parts of the sleeve

in the

to conform with the allowance in the armhole of the side piece.

Fig. 87, coat.

A

shows

a semi-fitting jacket

The front and back are seamed

which could shoulder,

to the

also

be used for a suit

and the pointed

lapel is

larger than previously shown.

F

In

At the neek in

width

is

lines

in

marked by

the fundanu'ntal pattern to the waist line.

and larger

either sqiiare or

rounded as

F and G

shows the regular pattern, and both

cated by the seam In 11 and

from the

lines slanting in

The bottom front can be cut

G

we have

cut-out, the addition for the pointinl

an inch

lapel, I of

collar to the waist line.

illustrated.

are cut separately as indi-

in the front.

the

I

show

lines

the construction of the l)aek narrowed

in

side at

and

liack pattern joined

and also

the waist line.

AVe see also the upper and under sleeves of the regular fundamental pattern and a small replica of the tailor-made collar, the measurements and the construction of which are given in Fig. 83

e.

The pattern for the upper and lower parts

of the two-piece sleeve

is

also

given. Fig. SS shows a double brea.sted jacket

with a plain turned-down collar

of the standing collar of Fig.SU

and the turned-down portion of

composed

In

Fig. 83 d. tern.

N

F

lines to tlu' waist line

in

to the

h.

lines

we have

the fundamental pat-

shows the usual addition from the

The distance between these

lines

and the

line

collar jjoint a.

marks an addi-

tional allowance of 2^ inches for the double-breasted effect.

N shown

in

is

cut in one piece with F.

Fig. 81

must

also be

made.

6

is

If

cut tlie

separately.

A

double-breasted

front effect

facing is

the additioiud allowance of 2h inches as previously explained must also be to the facing.

as

desired

made


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

1

D

71


72

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

Reduced to One Sixth


PARISIAN

LADIES-

TAILORING SYSTEM

73


PARISIAN

74

II

and

again show the fundamental patterns phieed

I

positions in

but each of these parts

lines,

the

liy

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

tlieir

relatively

lines.

Furthermore we notice from the waistline downward extra allowance of waist

in

cut separately as indicated

is

inches outlined Avith

2-^

lines

shown

for a ripple or flare in the back as

line,

in

F,

H

slanting

in Fig. B,

should

and from

we

an

I

the

desire

the same.

Any

of the patterns formerly

shown could

Vie

used for a garment of any

length by simply prolonging the pattern to the length desired.

F

Fig. 89.

and

cuffs

shows

down

long cloak with turned

a

collar, large pockets,

deep

belt.

A

The diagrams

and T show

fundamental pattern to the waist

and

line

in

line,

and

in

heavy

in

the

line

lines the usual addition

from

the ai'mhole to the waist at the side.

From A

the neck point

A

front piece

is

G

24 inches from

and

cvit

is

is

and

cut separately,

from the second dart downward

We

T extends

see tliat

The lower

see the addition to the front to G.

is

distance between the

The

l)ottom.

T

H.

to

we

in one with the front waist, and measures along the bottom

is

15 inches wide both at the top

and

lines

in

lines

above the

i inch

Avaist line,

and that

J

of an inch

allowed on the fundamental waist pattern from the second dart down.

allowances are for seams.

The short

These

â&#x20AC;˘

along

lines

the

the allowance for the seam.

Râ&#x20AC;&#x201D;

indicate that this part should be gathei'ed to

the width of the front side piece. In

C we

see in one piece

marked

in

lines,

the back and side with

the addition at the waist line as in the shirtwaist pattern, and also with the ad-

from the armhole to the waist along the side. This pattern is cut on the and measures 21 inches along the bottom from T to V. E and N lines tin:' adfundamental sleeve in fidl lines, and in regular show the dition

fold as shown,

made

dition

The

to

fit

the enlarged armhole.

= = ===

mark

lines

a length of

48

from the neck, the

inches

full

length of pattern being 54 inches.

The and 83

d.

In at

the

collar of this coat could be cut in

or after pattern

H

we have

a

two pieces according

to Figs. S3

b

II Pig. 89.

one-piece turned

respective distances of 2^ and

down

F and E

collar.

are parallel to S

3^ inches.

connected as shown in the figure. F perpendiculars are drawn to E of an inch from each end P'rom points The the correct collar measurement. long lines, making E 131 inches in R and

F

are each 15 inches long and

of

'[

lines

extra pieces liutton

;

from

F

to

E show

a possible

and buttonholes.

for

cut

of an inch on each side between

F

and

collar

a S.

if

desired.

The

serve as allowances for


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

75


76

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM


PARISIAN

LADIES-

TAILORING SYSTEM

77


PARISIAN

78

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

The bottom curve below S gives a better

collar

fitting

and allows

freer

a

ueck movement.

We

could cut this coat in a different

could be cut to the waist line and to

G

entire

upper portion

lower portion to R, and the part from

tlie

H

could also be separate pieces.

R

Fig. 90.

shows a double-breasted coat with pockets,

standing collar to which a sailor collar

F

We

The

fashion.

cuffs,

in

have also the regular fundamental pattern with the addition

lar addition

cut-out,

we

notice in

lines

lines.

to the waist line.

along the length the regu-

buttons and buttonholes, and in full lines 2J inches from

foi-

a

attached.

is

shows the front facing, and S and O the two pieces

At the neck

and

belt

C

to

R

the addition for the double-breasted coat.

The upper waist portion and the lower part

extended below the waist

is

extended above the waist

tions are necessary for the

E

to

line,

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

additional piece measures 6 inches at the top from

P

The back and

L

is

tlie

We

to

S,

These two addi-

S.

E

R

to P.

AVhile the

S and lOJ inches along

to

fundamental pattern

They extend

in

i inch

lines.

below the waist

allowance for the seam.

cut on the fold i of an inch higher than the waist line to allow for

The bottom from L

the seam.

to the

side parts are cut together.

being

E

to C.

Diagram Y shows the addition line, this

from

seam allowance.

The garment measures 251 inches along the bottom from the liottom from

line

notice that

L

is

F

to

gathered

measures 25 inches. at the

top from the center of the back to

the center ]iack seam. ]M

and

show the regular

I

for the wider armluile in

This coat

is

R

lines.

36 inches from the waist to the bottom, or 54 inches through

the entire front length. Fig. 91.

The

:=^==

Hues are 6 inches from the bottom.

shows a single-breasted coat seamed

back with lapel and tailor-made

E shows

and the addition

sleeves in full lines

collar,

and attached

L and G

the front facing and

tlie

to

shoulder in front and

cuffs.

two pieces of the

front,

the

addition in front being allowed for buttons and buttonholes.

N

is

the side part, and the back, whieli

is

cut on the fold as indicated,

is

marked A.

where

m

d.

b and

In

all five

show

the construction of the cuff.

pieces of this pattern

to cut this pattern, should

length being 54 inches.

we

we

notice the

desire

a

42-ineli

lines wliich indicate

length

coat,

the

whole


PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

m

Front

Facing

79


80

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM


PARISIAN

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

Along the bottom the widths are

L

M

to

F

Thns the half width of

sweep of the coat Fig. 92,

front facing,

G

The length of

=^==

but

lines,

made

L

this

15 inches,

garment

this coat

A

is

could be

54 inches

We

15 inches, from

and the back from E

to

measure 54 inches, and the

The

made any length is

as follows

A

from

lines lines

H

the

is

and E the seamed side and back

the bottom,

to

to R,

one

mark

still

or 48

inches

to

the

0,

164

desired.

F

from

inches

16^

:

and 10| inches from S

and b show the regular fundamental

back, and the

L

cut on the fold.

is

to C, 13 inches

lapel collar.

will

to

in double-breasted effect.

the seamed front parts,

which

it

From R

:

will be 3 yards.

The width of the bottom inches from

T

to

shows about the same coat

T and R

pieces, the latter of

a

A

16| inches, the side part from

7| inches.

Avhole

as follows

81

sleeve,

and

c

the

to

to B.

regular

tailor-

and wider

a collar deeper in front

in

wider both in front and back.

again wish to impress the fact that

all

our patterns are made without

seams, and these therefore must be allowed for either in cutting the pattern or in cutting the material. f of an inch allowance should be stated.

the front, f of an inch

made

is

required.

for (if

all

seams

cut in

unless

otherwise

two pieces) and along

Along the front an extra allowance must be

for facing.

When to

made

At the shoulders, the back center seam

make an

heavy weight material

is

used for jackets and

"coats,

it

is

necessary

additional allowance of ^ of an inch at all seams to take care of the

extra bulk of material.


PARISIAN

82

The

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

Cutting of All Kinds of Capes According the Fundamental Pattern

Fig. 9o, Fig.

W

shows us a cape wiiich we can make any desired length.

93 shows in

lines

pattern laid along A — B and A — C.

the front

These

and back of the fundamental

lines are

made with

the tailors' square

perpendictdar to each other as previously explained.

A

B

Fig. 93

,i4

OQ

1^— ^

s

'

\

I

•.

I

I

\

Front

'\

REDUCED TO One fourth

Vd-


PARISIAN

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

83

The front neck cut-out is placed along A C in such a way, that tlie waist is two unit parts of the scale of width from A C. Tlie shouhler line of tile back meets the shoulder line of the front at its lowest point, and the neck cut-out of the back lies along A B in such a position that the waist line u is two unit parts of the scale of width from A B.

d

line

We next connect a, the highest point of the front shoulder line with

c,

the

highest point of the side

armhole ;

«N

to

Fig.

94

and

\

for remeasuring

length

\ \

line

This gives us a side

e.

line

;/

line

in Fig. 93,

prolong this

"^^

'-N,

in

shown

as

desired

for

the

the

cape.

\

\

From tlie neck cut-out of botli front and back we

\

now mark

\

off the lengths

desired by a circular line

passing thi-ough the side line

o(.

connecting front and

\

\

back, Avhich will give us the bottom of the cape-

V--

rounding. I

I

The cape shown in tliis is seamed along the shoulder as we notice by the V cut between front and back shoulder seams. figure

/

Front

/

/

/ /

\

/

/

/ ,

/

REDUCED TO ONE SIXTH

9-t shows another cape without seams.

Fig.

/

In this pattern our construction line

the

/

y.\

/

/

pattern

along

placed

falls

two unit parts of the of width from it.

scale

^^

line,

The

—--^

is

A B, and fundamental is

d

this

>k 4---'-"'

fi'ont

so that

shoiilder

seam of

now

placed to

the back

is

'

the shoulder of the front so

that the neck cut-out

We now

of

joint the ends

center of the line

a.

both of

front

this

and back forms

semi-circle

with-

a semi-circle. lines,

marking the


A PARISIAN

84

We tlie

next mark

side fi'oni

from

o to

point.

e.

tlie

tlic

desired lengtli of the front, tlien

slioulder line neek eut-out.

and draw tlirough these

iDoints

and a

and

any distance

desired length of

semi-eirele

with

marked

as

a

the center

in

lines,

lines.

The center of the back flaring cape

tlie

desired length of the back

tlie

In the fignre tliree ditTerent lengths are given lines

more

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

is

o

c

is

laid out on the fold of the material.

desired, onr line o

desired, as this will give

lis

e

may

a

more

If

be pivoted from o towards c flaring

a

ett'ect.

Fig. 95 gives a cape with a separate sleeve

the

set-in,

length

full

shorter

which can be extended

if

of

desired as

The construction capes lines.

is

shown

d.

is

or

cut

in Fig. 96.

of both

of these

94 in

in Fig.

The sleeve

from k through

cape

the

shown

shown by an are

the highest point of

the shoulders to g.

Cutting

along

tliis

line

will

give

us the front and liack in one piece; the

second piece

demonstrated

Fig. 96

shows the same cape with a

shawl collar instead of a high standing one.

The sleeve part joining the back

and front

is

cut

length of sleeve

away is

after the desired

reached.

The corresponding parts are sewed together to form the sleeve.

The darts shown mental

making.

pattern

in the front

are

ignored

funda-

in

cape

is

the so-called sleeve as

in Fig. 95.


— PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

85

For Professional Designers (See Table

III— IV)

Table HI In examining the upper sleeve pattern lines,

we

notice construction lines from

A

to

for

a

36 figure marked in heavy

B and A

to

C

in

lines.

These lines make respectively larger and smaller arm-halls as indicated by A B, and higher or lower elbow points indicated by A C. The grading lines which indicate the different sizes are respectively f of an inch apart in the upper arm back-seam, both in width and length, but at the top of the arm-ball gradually diminish in width toward point A in the underarm seam. In the under sleeve the 36 pattern is marked in heavy lines. A B and A lines mark respectively the highest and lowest point of the underC in arm cut-out. and highest and lowest elbow point. The gradings are ^ of an inch apart for width, and § of an inch is allowed,

the same as in the iipper sleeve for the length.

The curve of the underarm cut-out increases in enlarging, and decreases in diminishing our fundamental pattern to meet the grading lines of the back under-

arm seam. Table IV

The front of our fundamental pattern for iu

a full size 36 figure is

here shown

lines.

lines from points {' to E and D. and from point F to K Note the through C and F to S. These lines are used as guides in grading the pattern. In front and at the sides /i^ of an inch is either added or deducted in grading. lines N V and P. In the side part we see the P is the U to those larger than the reguguide for grading to sizes smaller than 36, and The grading lines are ^/^,. of an inch apart. lar 36. In the back the grading lines are on the average '/-^^ of an inch apart, line A B. the construction of same being guided by the By adding the grading distances of the front "/j,., side 'Vni, and back '/,,., we have increased or diminished our half pattern one inch. Doubling this on the whole pattern we obtain the size of the pattern, as all patterns are graded on a '

— — —

two-inch scale.

The

table also includes a schedule of all necessary measurements

from 30

to 48 bust measure.

Remarks

As all patterns are made without seams, we must allow | of an inch for all seams in the upper and under sleeves, and li inches in the length for turning under and facing. In the basque f of an inch is allowed on all seams, except at the front, shoulders, and center back, where an allowance of J of an inch is made. In addition to this, to the center front an allowance of li inches is made for single-breasted effect, and from 2 to 2i inches for double-breasted garments. The usual | of an inch allowance is made for cuffs, collars, pockets, etc.


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