Marketing & Design Competitions
CROSS OVER ESSENCES PERFUME ACADEMY Thirty fragrances, packaging and advertising campaigns compete for the 19th edition of the awards ceremony for prestigious male and female perfumes. The protagonists, special awards and more news from a competition which awards the various aspects of the life of a perfume. Simultaneously updating the changed masculine fragrances which are now enhanced with flowery notes - and feminine fragrances which borrow woody nuances from the male universe. By the editorial staff
ow in its 19th edition the Perfume Academy Awards never fail to amaze and arouse enthusiasm, awarding that instrument which, above all others, speaks of seduction and beauty with the laurels it deserves. The 2008 edition which will culminate in the gala evening and award ceremony on the 11th of April will contain some innovations, starting with its brand new web site: new contents, new form and new graphics record the history, evolution and future of the sector, with daily updates and an interactive part.
BETWEEN TRADITION AND MODERNITY The shortlist of the finalists covers a wide range of scents from the most fresh and lively to the more sensual and mysterious. Many interesting ideas emerge from the choice of finalists, starting with the shrinking difference between female and male scents. Indeed, the former borrow the woody nuances from the male universe which, combined with flowers, generate a sharp and aristocratic mix. On the contrary, the masculine blends are softer, belonging to amber or even oriental families without spurning the use of flowers to create unusual notes of freshness and charm. The constant search for excellence is filtered through an increasingly painstaking selection of raw materials. The Haitian vetiver, the
Modern contrasts ANGE OU DÉMON Givenchy, LVMH
Nose: Jean Pierre Bethouart - Olivier Cresp Essence: Firmenich Packaging: Serge Mansau Family Oriental floral Head: Essence of Calabrian mandarin, essence of white thyme, essence of saffron Heart: Lily, maxillara orchid, ylang ylang Base: Oak, rosewood, vanilla, tonka bean
stillness before a storm. Givenchy’s new fragrance is indeed a mysterious yet crystalline creation. A great mixture of scents with two principal notes: pure and aristocratic lily and deep and dense oak. A play of shadows and light from which the unexpected, very elegant and slightly insolent head note of Calabrian mandarin, springs.
Balance and nobility BVLGARI OMNIA AMÉTHYSTE Bvlgari Parfums Italia
Animated and paradoxical, the Ange ou Démon bottle is a jewel of chiselled glass, the perfect synthesis of the very philosophy of the perfume based on strong contrasts: clear at the base and dark at the top. A geometry of diaphanous glass, yet secret, like a dream containing another dream. The discreet box is pure white and jet black suggesting the essential. The
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Nose: Alberto Morillas Essence: Firmenich Packaging: Bulgari Parfums Family Floral woody musky Head: Green sap, pink grapefruit Heart: Iris, Bulgarian rose Base: Sunflower, solar wood
Sicilian or South African mandarin, while the flowery notes are conspicuous for their subtle gradations depending on where they have been sourced. In the continuous struggle between ancient and modern, the packaging of the finalists also shows the dynamism and creativity which the companies belonging to the perfume industry lavish on anticipating and interpreting consumer trends. The bottles make a powerful impact. Observing them all together one has the impression of being on a virtual visit to an art gallery where every perfume is a unique sculpture, a solemn interpreter of an olfactory emotion. The winners are the linear forms embellished with sophisticated details, borrowed from tradition, and bottles designed to do more than their mere function, becoming veritable protagonists. These pure but sophisticated geometries are a successful mix of memory and contemporariness… just like the delicate essences which they religiously guard. Note. In the article which follows there is no mention of the male fragrance and finalist Dolce&Gabbana Light Blue pour Homme and the female fragrance and finalist Gucci by Gucci (both distributed by P&G Prestige Products). We would like to emphasise that this is due not to any neglect on our part but to an objective lack of information.
Sinuous forms define the bottle of Omnia Améthyste in an elegant play of iridescence which ranges from indigo to wisteria to deep purple, recalling the reflections of amethyst. The contrast between mirrored and transparent surfaces is emphasised by the rounded contours and evokes the sophisticated and sensual nature of the fragrance. Inspired by the seductive aura of the gem which is a symbol of balance and nobility, Omnia Améthyste is a fragrance to wear with self-confidence whose principal theme is the iris. The natural notes of green sap add a touch of energy, combined with the citrus accents of pink grapefruit, with its luminous and transparent character. A sophisticated and exclusive heart delicately melts into the sensual and charming base chords. The sunflower with its delicate and light tones blends with the intense depth of the “solar woods” notes: irresistibly seductive.
Energy for life DIESEL FUEL FOR LIFE POUR FEMME L’Oréal PDL Italia
Nose: Annick Menardo - Thierry Wasser Jacques Cavallier Essence: Firmenich Packaging: Fabien Baron Family Fougére powdery Head: Anise, grapefruit Heart: Raspberry, lavender Base: Vetiver, sunflower An old rose coloured box which resembles a tattered parcel, as though it came from somewhere along way off, tied with a leather string, evokes travel, faraway lands and the desire to get away from it all. A delicate fishnet stocking of pale lace, clearly the heir to the Diesel brand and the genius of Renzo Russo