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“ A stylist has to be tuned in to all areas of popular culture and creativity in order to bring a fresh perspective to a shoot or a brand. � Katie Baron


Historical background:

Women’s role changed during First World War: Women had to replace Men and take care of manual labours usually performed by Men. Social and Political changes transformed traditional fashion allowing Women to adopt and embrace a more masculine silhouette translating their emancipation in society. Clothing less gender - oriented available to feminine crowd. Historical context revolutioned established rules and metamorphosed conventional dress code until today.

“Le Smoking” by Helmut Newton, 1975 TRANSFORMATION OF THE SUIT

ANDROGYNOUS NO DIFFERENCIATION BETWEEN GENDERS BOYISH ATTITUDE

YVES SAINT LAURENT Yves Saint Laurent found inspiration in Art, cultural events as well as popular culture. He also admitted that he was influenced by the simplicity of COCO CHANEL Gabrielle Coco Chanel’s designs. He pushed the transfiguration of the ladylike appearance one step forward by adding to During the 1920’s, Coco Chanel was his models an ‘androgynous attitude’ (Helmut Newton photographs) that the first designer to create loose women’s fairly depict the transfiguration of the lifestyle, morals and social behaviours. jersey suits, inspired by men’s clothing He broke down the conformities officially recognized working class attire and created practical & on how to approach the female body by introducing his signature look, comfortable garments suitable for the post-war inverting features, sex related characteristics and qualities usually generation women. She was one of the fashion belonging to the opposite sex. After observing the changes happening pioneers introducing masculinity to the around him, he responded by successfuly presenting originals and corset-shaped silhouette effective at the time. uniques creations destroying the conventional distinctions between genders.

Danielle Ben David


ANDROGYNOUS SUITS Feminine Menswear or Masculine Womenswear?

M I C K J A G G E R

Androgynous Icon

Danielle Ben David


Debbie Harry The punk version of Marilyn Monroe

Debbie Harry’s edgy fashion sense combined many influences from 60’s Mod to Punk and Rock glam. She had the ability to mix fashion items which at first didn’t seem to belong together and made it look fresh, unique and effortless. It wasn’t so much about what she wore but how she wore it.

Danielle Ben David


inspiration

TODAY’S ANDROGYNOUS STYLE

Marlene Dietrich

Boyish MUSE : CHLOE SEVIGNY

Danielle Ben David


Clean Shapes

MINIMALISM Light Palette

Schiaparelli’s designs

Danielle Ben David


GEORGES BRAQUE

ART INSPIRATIONS

VISUAL RESEARCHES

Cubism Surrealism Modern Art Danielle Ben David


ART in FASHION Co

MONDRIAN

The “Mondrian Look”, 1965

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MARK ROTHKO

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PIERRE SOULAGES

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Styling selection

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Play with good & bad taste with textures, colours & prints

PICASSO

Subvert ideals of beauty

CHANEL

‘Ugly Chic’

SHAPELESS SILHOUETTE EFFORTLESS ALLURE

Collaboration between Prada & Elsa Schiaparelli

SONIA DELAUNAY

Danielle Ben David


"The Face" magazine "Fashion Special" issue, August 1995

Fashion editorial: "LIKELY LADS" Photography: Mario Tastino, Styling: Adam Howe and Joanna Thaw Pages 40 - 51

Fashion editorial: "michelle ma belle" Photography and Styling: Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin Pages: 62 – 71

Danielle Ben David


shoot outfits credits 1.

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1.Vintage leather dress 2.H&M white top 3.Chloe trousers 4.Sugerdaddy skirt 5.Vintage maxi dress 6.Marni for H&M top 7.H&M skirt 8.Escada coat 9.vintage trousers 10.Vintage blazer 11.Vintage trousers 12.Escada skirt 13+14+15.’KEKE’ by Karen Shechori 3rd year BA(Hons) Fashion Design, Istituto Marangoni 16.Top Shop suede shorts 17.Banana Republic jacket 18.Vintage top 19.Moschino trousers 20.Moschino jacket 21.Vintage kilt 22.Vintage dress 23.H&M top 24.Top Shop suede shorts 25.Vintage leather jacket 26+27+28.’Ataraxi’ by Rebecca Haddaway 2nd year FdA fashion design and Marketing, London College of Fashion. Danielle Ben David


Bibliography  Mackrell, A. (2005) Art and Fashion: The Impact of Art on Fashion and Fashion on Art. London: B T Batsford.  Martin, R. (1998) Fashion and Surrealism. London: Thames and Hudson Ltd.  Martin, R. (1998) Cubism and Fashion. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. 

Reeder, J. (2012) Schiaparelli & Prada: Impossible Conversations. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.

 Giordani Aragno, B. (2003) La Signora dello Stile: Mila Schön. Firenze: Edizioni Polistampa.  Center Pompidou (2010) 100 Masterpieces of the 20th Century: from the collections of the Center Pompidou. Paris: Center Pompidou.  Jolliffe, K and Garnett, B. (2007) The Cheap Date: Guide to Style. London: Transworld Publishers.  Jagger, M, Richards, K, Watts, C and Wood, R. (2012) The Rolling Stone 50. London: Thames and Hudson Ltd. Danielle Ben David

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