Issuu on Google+

FEBRUARY 2014 • Vol. 20 No. 2

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

www.nyscc.org

Recent Developments Related to the Formulation of Water-in-Oil-in-Water (W/O/W) Emulsions with Improved Emulsion Stability …Paul Thau

F

or over fifty years, numerous publications have been written and patents issued related to multiple emulsions, particularly W/O/W emulsions. This interest stems from the significant applications of these complex emulsion systems to entrap watersoluble materials, particularly as topical delivery systems for controlled and sustained release of active ingredients. These emulsions are of practical use to formulators working in the areas of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, food chemistry, and agriculture. Despite numerous attempts, cosmetic chemists were unsuccessful in formulating multiple emulsions with acceptable stability at room temperature and 40 ºC until the last twenty years. A major factor for this achievement has been the synthesis and commercial availability of a group of lipophilic polymeric emulsifiers, most of which have molecular weights in excess of 5000. The objective of this review article is to document the progression of advances for the use of these new emulsifiers, in conjunction with our understanding for the use of specific stabilizing additives, associated with improved understanding of colloid chemistry and knowledge about processing techniques to produce a W/O/W emulsion with acceptable stability at all standard temperature conditions.

Background information Multiple W/O/W emulsions are composed of aqueous droplets, which are dispersed inside oil drops. These oil droplets are themselves dispersed in an external aqueous phase. There are two interfaces in these complex systems. A hydrophobic emulsifier with a low HLB value stabilizes the first one and a hydrophilic emulsifier with a high HLB is present at the second interface.1 Potential applications for multiple emulsions include uses for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food products. Most of these uses

are aimed for slow and sustained release of active ingredients from an internal reservoir into the continuous aqueous phase. They can also improve dissolutions or solubilization of insoluble materials. Due to these properties, multiple emulsions find applications related to protecting sensitive and active molecules such as vitamins C and E from the external phase. Numerous patents related to the use of multiple emulsions for special applications, including protecting

2014 NYSCC RHEOLOGY SYMPOSIUM March 19-20 • Princeton University

(Continued on page 4)


C

O

S

M

E

T

I

S

C

O

P

E

2014 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR

Steve Neidenberg sbn605@aol.com

CHAIR-ELECT

Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com

TREASURER

Sonia Dawson sonia.dawson@croda.com

TREASURER-ELECT

Marie Thadal (609) 712-3716 marie.thadal@coptis.com

SECRETARY

Jenna Jelinski (201) 396-8431 jjelinski@morretec.com

ADVISOR

Steve Herman (973) 479-5702 steveh50@optonline.net

HOUSE

Andrea Guerrero aguerrero@gattefossecorp.com (862) 324-1063

MEMBERSHIP

Amy Marshall (908) 806-4664 amy.marshall@altana.com

PROGRAM

Cathy Piterski (678) 730-1643 cpiterski@essentialingredients.com

SPECIAL EVENTS John Dinoia (845) 664-4862 jdinoia@espllc.us

SUPPLIERS’ DAY

Danielle Kennedy dkennedy2014nyscc@gmail.com

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com

A t t e n t i o n

M e m b e r s

Unemployed and Emeritus members may continue to attend monthly meetings free of charge. Please contact the registration booth upon arrival. Unemployed members may also continue their membership free of charge by submitting the renewal form with unemployment details. Please remember that the SCC Employment Service is here to assist you. Contact: Roger McMullen • E-Mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

2

F E B R U A R Y

2 0 1 4


W

W

W

.

N

Y

S

C

C

.

O

R

G

2014 TRI-Princeton Events Human Hair/Cosmetic Interactions May 15-16

®

An in-depth examination of the science of hair and hair care products for professionals in the hair fiber and cosmetics industries.

Hair & Scalp Biology Workshop September 15 This one-day intensive workshop on hair and scalp biology, taught by leading hair biologist, Dr. Gillian Westgate, is intended to organize and advance hair and scalp biology as an integral component of hair care product development.

®

Specialty Silicones t Specialty Esters Delivery Systems Skin & Hair Moisture Complexes EXSYMOL S.A.M.: Silanols t Peptides GELYMA: Marine Cell Actives 201-825-8800 t www.biosiltech.com

Science Behind Hair Claims • September 16-17 This course focuses on attributes of hair, together with testing and technical knowledge, leading to the support of product claims. In addition, we will review the media perspective and regulatory aspects of the claims process.

Applied Hair Science Conference • September 18-19 This conference brings together people creating hair care products, today and tomorrow, with the creators of the newest product technology, technical insights, and measurement methods. For more information on all these events contact Eleanor Lehman at events@triprinceton.org; or call (609) 430-4820; or visit the website at www.triprinceton.org/education.

Annual European Rheology Conference April 8-11, 2014 • Karlsruhe, Germany For more information visit www.aerc2014.kit.edu. E-mail: info@aerc2014.kit.edu.

Upcoming 2013 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org February 5 Joint Meeting with the Chinese SCC, Edison, NJ February 7 Ski Trip to Windham Mountain, Windham, NY March 19-20 2014 NYSCC Rheology Symposium, Princeton University May 12 Cosmetics in Contemporary Brazil, Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel, Iselin, NJ May 13-14 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Edison, NJ June 5 2014 NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium, New York, NY July (TBD) Golf Outing (TBD) September (TBD) NYSCC Regulatory Symposium (TBD) September 18 Culinary Event (TBD)

V O L U M E

2 0

N o . 2

3


C

O

S

M

E

T

I

S

Water-in-Oil-in-Water (W/O/W) Emulsions

C

O

P

E

(Continued from page 1) 2

the stability of sensitive active ingredients have been issued. Despite the sustained release and protective properties of multiple emulsions in protecting ingredients from degradation, on a practical level significant problems may arise due to thermodynamic instability and a strong tendency for coalescence, flocculation, and creaming. In addition, the stability of W/O/W emulsions may be affected by a number of factors, including the method of preparation, the osmotic balance between the internal and external water phase, the phase volume ratio, and the type and concentration of the emulsifier.3 Until twenty years ago, most studies relating to multiple emulsions were based on conventional nonionic surfactants. However, most of these surfactant systems were reported to produce multiple emulsions with limited emulsion stability.4 In contrast, several new types of polymeric emulsifiers, when appropriately formulated with good processing techniques, were demonstrated to significantly improve the physical stability of multiple emulsions.5 Schematic illustration of a W/O/W double emulsion Based on detailed studies of the preparation of droplet. Originally printed in Reference 11. stable W/O/W multiple emulsions, T. Tadros advises that the following conditions should be fulfilled. A) Two emulsifiers, one with a low and another with a high HLB should be used. One emulsifier should be used to produce the primary W/O emulsion and the other for the W/O/W multiple emulsion. B) Polymeric emulsifiers that provide steric stabilization are necessary to maintain long-term physical stability. C) An optimum osmotic balance between the internal water droplets and the outer continuous phase is recommended.3,5 A publication by A. Kovács, entitled “Structural analysis of W/O/W emulsions by means of DSC,” provides useful information related to investigating the complex and variable structures of W/O/W emulsions.1 His studies include microscopic observations combined with differential scanning calorimetric (DSC) measurements in order to identify the formed structure at development stages in case of different components, preparation methods, and stirring rates. It was concluded that multiple emulsions prepared with non-polar lipophilic agents contained fewer multiple droplets than those containing polar agents, at constant surfactant concentration. This observation was confirmed both by microscopic analysis and DSC studies. In addition DSC studies were found to be an adequate tool for the following:1 1. Quantitatively measure the mass fraction of different aqueous phases. 2. Detect the relationship between the stirring rate and the mass fraction of inner aqueous droplets. 3. Give feedback for the formulation technology, by characterizing the structure of multiple emulsions. 4. Follow the micro-structural changes occurring during storage. The authors of this publication recommended that the next stage of investigation should be to analyze the rheological behavior and the drug release profile of the multiple emulsion compositions.1 A 2009 publication by D.D. Vasiljevic et al., entitled “Rheological and droplet size analysis of W/O/W multiple emulsions containing low concentrations of polymeric emulsifiers,” is noteworthy since it provides significant pathway related information related to the formulation of functional W/O/W emulsions with improved stability at room temperature and 40 ºC.3 “In this study, W/O/W multiple emulsion systems containing low concentration levels of lipophilic polymeric emulsifiers, cetyl dimethicone copolyol and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, were evaluated. The concentrations of the primary emulsifiers were set at 1.6 and 2.4% w/w in the final emulsions. Rheological and droplet size analysis of the investigated samples showed that the type and concentration of the primary emulsifiers markedly affected the characteristics of the multiple emulsions. The multiple emulsion prepared with 2.4% w/w of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate as the primary emulsifier exhibited the highest apparent viscosity, yield stress, and elastic modulus values, as well as the smallest droplet size. Furthermore, these parameters remained relatively constant over the study period, confirming the high stability of the investigated sample. The results obtained indicate that the changes observed in the investigational samples over time can be

4

F E B R U A R Y

2 0 1 4


W

W

W

.

N

Y

S

C

C

.

O

R

G

attributed to the swelling/breakdown mechanism of the multiple droplets. Such changes could be adequately monitored by rheological and droplet size analysis.” Based upon their extensive studies, the authors of this meritorious publication stated that semi-solid W/O/W emulsions based on lipophilic polymeric emulsifiers offered potential advantages as a vehicle for dermatological and cosmetic preparations.

Processing Services for dry powders Jet Mill Technology for Ultra Fine Bases, Face Powders, and Pigments. FDA cGMP

Table I. Two-step W/O/W emulsions from D.D. Vasiljevic et al.3 A (% wt.) B (% wt.) Phase A Cetyl dimethicone copolyol 2.40 – PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate – 2.40 Medium chain triglycerides 13.60 13.60 Magesium sulfate, heptahydrate 0.56 0.56 Purified water 63.44 63.44 Phase B Polaxamer 407 0.80 0.80 Preservative q.s. q.s. Purified water q.s. q.s.

The Jet Pulverizer Co. ®

800.670-9695 www.jetpulverizer.com info@jetpul.com

sensiva® – multifunctional additives designed for your innovation

Procedure: A two-step procedure was used for sample preparation. The first step consisted of the preparation of the primary emulsion; the second step entailed dispersing a given amount of the primary emulsion in the external phase containing the secondary emulsifiers. The researchers found that the formulation containing 2.40% of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate exhibited consistent storage and loss of moduli values and droplet size over a 90-day time span, indicating the favorable long-term stability of the resulting emulsion.3

euxyl® – optimum preservation according to your needs

schülke schülke inc. inc. 1-888-267-4220 1-888-267-4220 Rossow USA, Inc. Specialty Cosmetic Ingredients

Cosmetic ingredients your formulas can trust!

Chemical structure for PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.

Chemical structure for cetyl dimethicone copolyol.

Theoretical explanation for the superiority of polymeric emulsifiers versus low molecular weight monomeric emulsifiers for the preparation of W/O/W emulsions In an article published in a text, entitled “Multiple Emulsions Stabilized by Biopolymers,” published in 2008, the authors (Lutz and Aserin) explained that monomeric emulsifiers can migrate from the W/O interface to the oil phase, and the hydrophilic surfactant can be transported to the inner interface and alter the required hydrophilic/hydrophobic balance of each of the phases. In contrast, polymeric amphiphiles are known to be multi-anchoring amphiphiles with irreversible adsorption capabilities that can improve the droplets interfacial coverage during emulsification. Since they provide strong steric stabilization capabilities they are able to form thick and flexible films that in most cases are anchored into the oil-water interface. Droplet size reduction and increased shelf-life stability is achieved with the use of polymeric amphiphiles.6

Contact: www.rossow-usa.com www.rossow-usa.com +1 (855) 7ROSSOW contact@rossow-usa.com

Role of electrolytes in improving stability of W/O/W emulsions The inclusion of electrolytes (sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, etc.) in the external water phase of W/O/W emulsions plays an important role in the stability of multiple emulsions by balancing the osmotic pressure between the oil, internal, and external phases.7 Rationale for the use of W/O/W multiple emulsions as a means of prolonged delivery of drugs The drug contained in the innermost phase is forced to partition itself through several phases prior to release at the adsorption site. Thus, the partition and diffusion coefficient of the drug and strength of the middle membrane phase, which is a multi-molecular layer of oil, water, and emulsifier, at both the interfaces of multiple emulsion systems, controls the drug release from these systems.8,9 (Continued on page 6)

V O L U M E

2 0

N o . 2

5


C

O

S

M

E

T

I

S

C

O

Water-in-Oil-in-Water (W/O/W) Emulsions

P

E

(Continued from page 5)

General information related to W/O/W multiple emulsions Oil phase components: As a general rule, mineral oils produce more stable multiple emulsions than those produced from vegetable oils. The order of decreasing stability and percentage of entrapment has been found to be light liquid paraffin > squalene > sesame oil > maize or peanut oil.10 Rheological evalution: The rheology of multiple emulsions is an important parameter as it is related to emulsion stability and performance properties. The viscosity and interfacial elasticity are two major parameters, which relate to product rheology.10 Viscosity measurement: It is recommended that the viscosity be measured by a Brookfield rotational viscometer. Samples are sheared for one minute at 100 rpm, using an appropriate spindle.10 Interfacial rheology: An oscillatory surface rheometer is recommended for this measurement.10 Use application for multiple emulsions: Employed to protect natural colorants A recently filed U.S. Patent Application, entitled “Multiple Emulsions for Colorants,” provides an interesting example for the utility of multiple emulsions in protecting ingredients prone to oxidation and exposure to light.11 The abstract for this application reads as follows:

The Soul & Science of Beauty. www.evonik.com/personal-care

“The present invention is related to a multiple emulsion of water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) type for stabilization of natural coloring agents, such as anthocyanin, phycocyanin, carthamus, huito, calcium carbonate, carmine, and carminic acid, against changes in pH values, oxidation, and light as well as against ingredient interactions. The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found that the stability of natural coloring agents can be increased by dispersing the waterdispersible coloring agents as W/O/W multiple emulsions. Especially, the pH stability of the natural coloring agents is increased considerably by encapsulation in a W/O/W multiple emulsion allowing for the result.” Polyglycerol polyricinoleate is the low HLB polymeric emulsifier described in this patent application used for a multiple emulsion composition to protect a variety of natural colorants from oxidation. Prototype W/O/W emulsion exhibiting stability and light skin feel The following prototype W/O/W emulsion, submitted for publication in 2005 by Uniqema Inc., illustrates some of the techniques employed in recent years to formulate W/O/W emulsions with improved stability and light skin feel.12 The formulation composition consists of a low HLB polymeric emulsifier, selection of lipophilic oils and esters, and inclusion of an appropriate concentration of electrolyte. Table II. Prototype W/O/W emulsion for light skin feel Primary W/O emulsion Phase A Isohexadecane Caprylic/capric triglycerides PPG-15 stearyl ether PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate Phase B Purified water Sodium chloride Preservative

(% wt.) 15.0 7.5 7.5 2.0 67.6 0.4 q.s.

Primary W/O emulsion procedure: 1. Heat A and B separately to 45 ºC. 2. Add B to A with stirring. 3. Homogenize thoroughly and propeller stir for 30 minutes.

Secondary W/O/W emulsion Primary W/O emulsion Purified water Poloxamer 407 Carbopol 934 Sodium chloride Triethanolamine Preservative

(% wt.) 70.0 26.8 2.0 0.5 0.2 0.5 q.s.

Secondary W/O/W emulsion procedure: 1. Dissolve poloxamer 407 in 20 ºC water with stirring. 2. Sift carbopol in with rapid stirring. 3. Add sodium chloride and preservative. 4. Slowly add the primary W/O emulsion. 5. Add triethanolamine. 6. Stir mixture moderately fast for 15 minutes.

This emulsion is stable at elevated (40 ºC) and room temperature for one month, and also had no separation after five freeze/thaw cycles. 6

F E B R U A R Y

2 0 1 4


W

W

W

.

N

Y

S

C

C

.

O

R

G

#$"   %# "

Basic W/O/W cream containing panthenol developed by Evonik Table III. Basic W/O/W emulsion with panthenol (% wt.) Phase A Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone 1.50 Mineral oil (30 mPas) 11.00 Phase B Purified water 32.25 Glycerin 2.00 Sodium chloride 0.25 Panthenol 3.00 Preservative, fragrance q.s. Phase C Cocamidopropyl betaine 0.60 Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate 0.10 Purified water Sodium hydroxide (10% in water)

 #$!&

                      

  



48.90 0.40

Processing: 1. W/O Emulsion: Mix ingredients of Phase A and Phase B separately. Stir Phase B into Phase A and homogenize. 2. Solution Phase C: Dissolve betaine in water, disperse acrylates/C10-30 alkylacrylate, and neutralize with sodium hydroxide solution to approximately pH 6.3. 3. Mix one part of the W/O emulsion and one part of phase C. 4. Stir for 2-5 minutes.



Providing superior products from the finest manufacturers

770.831.9010

www.essentialingredients.com

Caveats and recommendations Despite recent advances made since the availability of lipophilic polymeric emulsifiers for the formulation of W/O/W emulsions, one of their drawbacks continues to be limited long-term stability. Publications that report on the use of multiple emulsion technology for food, pharmaceutical, dermatological, and cosmetic applications provide information related to additives, stabilizers, and processing methodologies to enhance formulation stability and efficacy.13-16 A publication authored by Figen Tirnaksiz et al., entitled “A topical W/O/W multiple emulsion prepared with poloxamine 908 as a hydrophilic surfactant: Formulation, characterization and release study,â€? provides useful information particularly related to stability of W/O/W emulsions after extended stability testing at 40 ÂşC and room temperature.15 The formulations studied are shown below, together with stability information. Table IV. A topical W/O/W multiple emulsion (% wt.) Primary emulsion Oil phase Liquid paraffin 30.00 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone 2.00 or 4.00 Internal aqueous phase Sodium chloride Caffeine Distilled water

(% wt.) Secondary emulsion Oil phase Primary w/o emulsion External aqueous phase Poloxamine 908 Distilled water

80.0 1,2, or 4 q.s.

0.03 1.50 q.s.

(Continued on page 8)

V O L U M E

2 0

•

N o . 2

7




C

O

S

M

E

T

I

S

C

O

P

Water-in-Oil-in-Water (W/O/W) Emulsions

E

(Continued from page 7)

Table V. Effect of surfactant concentration on physical stability of multiple emulsions. PS = phase separation. Use of the symbol, –, indicates no phase separation at 25 ºC or at 40 ºC. Cetyl PEG/PPG10/1 dimethicone

Poloxamine 908

1 month

2 months

3 months

4 months

2%

1%

2%

2%

2%

4%

4%

1%

4%

2%

4%

4%

PS at 25 ºC PS at 40 ºC

No PS at 25 ºC PS at 40 ºC No PS at 25 ºC PS at 40 ºC – PS at 25 ºC PS at 40 ºC PS at 25 ºC PS at 40 ºC

5 months

No PS at 25 ºC PS at 40 ºC No PS at 25 ºC PS at 40 ºC PS at 25 ºC PS at 40 ºC PS at 25 ºC PS at 40 ºC PS at 25 ºC PS at 40 ºC PS at 25 ºC PS at 40 ºC

The formulations containing 1% cetyl dimethicone copolyol and 1 or 2% poloxamine 908 were the most stable of those tested. However, it should be noted this stability profile would not be acceptable for most cosmetic and dermatological formulations considered for commercialization. Since the stability of multiple emulsions is influenced by numerous formulation and process variables, achieving formulations with longer-term stability will depend on further advances in our knowledge of these variables and the use of stabilizing agents. Conclusion With the introduction of a range of lipophilic polymeric emulsifiers during the past twenty years, the feasibility for successfully formulating stable and functional W/O/W emulsions has increased; however, formulating W/O/W emulsions exhibiting longer-term stability at elevated temperatures continues to be a challenge. It is anticipated that this complex emulsion delivery system will gain increased usage for development of topical delivery compositions for prolonged release of active agents, incorporation of incompatible materials, and protection of active ingredients by dispersion in the internal phase of W/O/W emulsions. References: 1. A. Kovács et al., “Structural analysis of W/O/W multiple emulsions by means of DSC,” J. Therm. Anal. Calor., 82, 491-497 (2005). 2. P. Bhushan et al., “Multiple emulsions in cosmetics,” Cosmet. & Toil., July 30, 2008, www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com. 3. D.D. Vasiljevic et al., “Rheological and droplet size analysis of W/O/W emulsions containing low concentrations of polymeric emulsifiers,” J. Serb. Chem. Soc., 74, 801-816 (2009). 4. J. Jiao and D.J. Burgess, “Rheological and stability of water-in-oil-water multiple emulsions containing Span 83 and Tween 80,” AAPS Pharm Sci., 5, E7 (2003). 5. T. Tadros, “Principles of emulsion stabilization with special reference to polymeric surfactants,” J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 153-169 (2006). 6. R. Lutz and A. Aserin, “Multiple emulsions stabilized by biopolymers,” in Multiple Emulsions: Technology and Applications, Ed. A. Aserin, pp. 85-120, John Wiley & Sons: Hoboken, NJ (2008). 7. M.P. Aronson and M.F. Petko, “Highly concentrated water-in-oil emulsions: Influence of electrolyte on their properties and stability, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 159, 134 (1993). 8. V.K. Sinha and A. Kumar, “Multiple emulsions: An overview of formulation, characterization, stabilty and applications,” Ind. J. Pharm. Sci., 64, 191-199 (2002). 9. S.B. Prajapati et al., “An overview of preparation, evaluation and applications of multiple emulsions”, IJPRS, 2, 142-150 (2013) 10. S. Depak et al., “Recent advancement, technology & applications of multiple emulsions, Innovare J. Health Sci., 1, 19-23 (2013). 8

F E B R U A R Y

2 0 1 4


W

W

W

.

N

Y

S

C

C

.

O

R

G

11. S.L. Mason and M. Bonnet, US Patent Application 20130216665, “Multiple emulsions for colorants,” November 4, 2011. 12. H.M. Fishman, “Emulsions made easier with novel emulsifier (Gleams & Notions),” HAPPI Mag., November 1, 2005. 13. C. Dieroff, “Fat and functionality: A little WOW goes a long way,” http://www.preparedfoods.com/ articles/109486-fat-and-oil-functionality-a-little-wow-goes-a-long-way. 14. N. Gray, “WOW double emulsions move closer to food applications, say researchers,” http://www.foodnavigator.com/Science-Nutrition/WOW-double-emulsions-move-closer-to-foodapplications-say-researchers. 15. F. Tirnaksiz and O. Kalsin, “A topical w/o/w emulsion prepared with Tetronic 908 as a hydrophilic surfactant: Formulation, characterization and release study,” J. Pharm. Pharmaceut. Sci., www.cspscanada.org, 8, 299-315 (2005). 16. A.J. Bevacqua, US Patent Application 5304334, “Method of preparing a multiphase composition,” April 28, 1992. _____________________________________________________________

About the Author...

P

aul Thau was employed at Cosmair/L’Oreal USA for over 22 years, during which time he served as Assistant Vice-President of Cosmetic R&D and then as Senior Research Fellow. His cosmetic industry experience spans more than fifty years and includes R&D positions at Revlon, Bristol-Myers, CIBA Pharmaceutical, and Warner-Lambert. He served the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in many capacities including Chairman of the New York chapter in 1971 and President of National in 1988. Later, he was a member of the IFSCC Presidium and Scientific Committee. Paul is a Fellow of the SCC, and holds fifteen U.S. patents. He was presented with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Maison de Navarre Award in 2005. Currently, he has a cosmetic consulting company, PaCar Tech, which specializes in the areas of innovative product development, new cosmetic raw materials, technology transfer, and technology acquisition.

PTFE Additives for Personal Care Products

Beauty is More Than Skin Deep

shamrocktechnologies.com

Rhodia is now Solvay Still offering exceptional products & service New Products Miracare® GBC The clear choice for tear-free, Ethoxylate-free baby cleansing

Rheomer® 33T Higher clarity suspending polymer Contact: 888-776-7337 NovecareCC@Solvay.com

Call for Papers

T

he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice. Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor. Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

Make note of it…Cosmetiscope Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to: Roger McMullen, Editor E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu V O L U M E

2 0

N o . 2

9


C

O

S

M

E

T

I

S

C

O

P

E

2014 NYSCC 2-Day Rheology Symposium Princeton University (McDonnell & Jadwin Buildings)

March 19-20, 2014

n Half-day SCC Cosmetic Rheology Course by Dennis Laba n

Half-day SCC Gums, Thickeners and Rheology Modifiers Course by Robert Lochhead, Ph.D.

n

Presentations By Internationally Renowned Experts in Rheology including Poster Technology Session

n Rheology Instrumentation Demonstrations

Agenda:

n SESSION A – March 19th, 8:35 – 11:30 a.m.

SCC Continuing Education Course: “Cosmetic Rheology.â€? Instructor: Dennis Laba (Presperse) n SESSION B – March 19th, 9:00 – 11:30 a.m. • Joe Albanese (3V Inc) – Rheology Modifiers as Delivery Systems for Active Ingredients • Rhyta Rounds, Ph.D. (Fluid Dynamics) – Lubricity Measurements—An Overview • Daphne Benderly, Ph.D. (Presperse) – Why Rheology—Examples from Other Industries • Jeffery Martin, Ph.D. (Johnson & Johnson) – Yield Stress Measurements for Personal Care Applications • Christina Tang, Ph.D. (Princeton University) – Foams for Drug Delivery • Geng Li, Ph.D. (Energizer) – Relationship Between the Rheological Properties and Skin Feel

n SESSION C – March 19th, 1:00 – 4:00 p.m.

SCC Continuing Education Course: “Rheology Modifiers.� Instructor: Robert Lochhead, Ph.D. (University of Southern Mississippi)

n SESSION D – March 19th, 1:00 – 4:00 p.m.

• Gail Vance Civille (Sensory Spectrum) – Rheology—Can You Feel It‌When Sensory Science Counts • Nava Dayan, Ph.D. (Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C.) – Formulation Viscosity—Correlation to Skin Permeation Enhancement or Retardation • Anna Tai, Ph.D. (Merck) – Rheology Application for Emulsion Formulation Development, Optimization & Scale-up

"OT A NE S S E NT I A L 2234 .AT UR AL !NT I /XI DANT #OMPL E X

 ) MPR OVE ME NT I N /XI DAT I VE 0R OT E C T I ON s .A T UR A L %X T R A C T #O MPL E X s ,O W /DO R s &R E E O F 3 Y NT HE T I C ) NG R E DI E NT S s ,O W #O L O R

• Kishore R. Shah, Ph.D. (Polytherapeutics, Inc.) – Hydrogel Graft Copolymer Delivery System and I ts Rheological Properties • Brian Figura (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) – Surfactant-Activated Microgels: A Novel Platform for Rheology Modification • Mark Chandler (ACT Solutions Corp) – Cosmetic Rheology—A Flow of Emotions • Bharath Rajaram (TA Instruments) – Rheological Characterization of Personal Care Products • Brock Lundberg (Fiberstar Bio-Ingredient Technologies, Inc.) – Characterization of Citrus Fiber Rheology and Physicochemical Interactions • Eric Chiang (Brookfield Engineering) – Are Your Cosmetics & Personal Care Products Easy to Apply

%X C L US I V E L Y F R O M $$ #(%-#/

) .# 4E L     E MA I L  I NF O DDC HE MC O  C O M

10

• Edward DiAntonio (Ashland) – The Impact of Hydrophobically Modified HEC on the Rheology of Conditioner Formulations

F E B R U A R Y

2 0 1 4


W

W

W

.

N

Y

S

C

C

.

O

R

G

n SESSION E – March 20th, 9:00 a.m. – 12:15 p.m.

Keynote Speaker Robert Bianchini, Ph.D. (VP Innovation Merck) The Importance of Rheology to a Successful Product Development Plan • Hemi Nae, Ph.D. (Hydan Technologies) – Introduction to Rheology • Rudiger Brummer, Ph.D. (formerly with Beiersdorf) – Correlating RheologicalProperties To Sensory Perceptions • T.J. Lin, Ph.D. (TJL Associates) – Rheology and Solving Emulsion Processing Problems

n SESSION F – March 20th, 1:30 – 4:30 p.m. • Manfred Wilhelm, Ph.D. (Karlsruhe Institute of Technology) – New and Combined Methods for the Rheological Characterization of Soft Matter • Robert Prud’homme, Ph.D. (Princeton University) – Hydrophobically Associative Polymers • Robert Lochhead, Ph.D. (University of Southern Mississippi) – Microgels and Particulates: Yield Stress, Jamming and Avalanche Fluids • Phillip Miner, Ph.D. (formerly with Unilever)– Using Rheology to Predict Stability

ALL DAY – March 19th and 20th Demonstrations/Presentations of Rheological Instrumentation Poster Technology Session – Rheology Modifiers

Transforming the way personal care ingredients are bought, sold, and managed

BOTH EVENINGS – March 19th and 20th March 19th – Evening Educational Program: Gary Agisim (Pfizer) – TBD Social Gala Reception (Chemistry building, Princeton University campus)

www.univar.com/us +1 855-888-8648

March 20th – Evening Educational Program: Dr. Trefor Evans (T A Evans LLC) – Use of the Viscoelastic Properties of Hair in the Elucidation of its Complex Structure Reception (Prospect House, Princeton University campus) Reception (food and drink) on both evenings starts at 5:00 p.m. until about 8:00 p.m.

Registration:

Members

NonMembers

Students/Emeritus/ Unemployed

Both Days One Day

$200 $100

$400 $200

$0 $0

Price includes reception(s) at the conclusion of the presentations.

Both Days One Day

$300 $150

$500 $250

$50 $25

Price includes reception(s) at the conclusion of the presentations.

Day 1 Day 2 Both Days

$25 $25 $50

$50 $50 $100

Free Free Free

n EARLY REGISTRATION – PRIOR TO MARCH 12, 2014

n LATE REGISTRATION – AFTER MARCH 12, 2014 AT THE DOOR n RECEPTION ONLY – Early registration required.

n POSTER TECHNOLOGY SESSION PARTICIPATION

•$600 includes 4'x8' poster, one full-registration, published abstract, and 1/4-page advertisement in handouts. • $800 includes 4'x8' poster, one full-registration, published abstract, and full-page advertisement in handouts plus sponsorship of both early evening receptions NOTE: Poster participation includes one full-registration!

n CONTACTS:

• Joe Albanese (3V Inc) at j.albanese@3vusa.com or (908) 456-2968 • Daphne Benderly (Presperse) at dbenderly@presperse.com or (732) 356-5200

For directions and parking information go to the NYSCC website: www.nyscc.org.

V O L U M E

2 0

N o . 2

11


C

O

S

M

E

T

I

S

C

O

P

E

Innovation for Hair & Skin

croda.com/na/pc

1.625 x 2.5 color

Save the Date June 5, 2014 New York Academy of Sciences World Trade Center, Building 7 • New York, NY The New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists is proud to announce the 2014 NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium, which will feature key academic and industrial researchers in the field of antioxidants and the skin. The conference will be held on the top floor of the newly constructed Building 7 of the World Trade Center, home to the New York Academy of Sciences. There will be a concurrent poster session in which entries will be eligible for the poster competition and will be judged on originality and innovation relevant to methodologies and the use of antioxidants in skin care. Please send abstracts for podium presentation submissions by March 15, 2014, to Jenna Jelinski at jjelinski@morretec.com.

Calling for Poster Submissions

Conference attendees will receive a complimentary book:

Antioxidants and the Skin

12

F E B R U A R Y

2 0 1 4


W

W

W

.

N

Y

S

C

C

.

O

R

G

Antioxidant Symposium Featured Presentations Release of Polyphenols from Cosmetic Emulsions and their Permeation through the Skin – Olesya Zillich, Ph.D. (Fraunhofer Institute for Process Engineering and Packaging, Freising, Germany) ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Changes in Cutaneous Radical Scavenging Activity after Topical and Systemic Application of Antioxidants – Martina Meinke, Ph.D. (Klinik für Dermatologie, Venerologie und Allergologie, Berlin, Germany) ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Botanical Antioxidants for Health and Beauty of the Skin – Hasan Mukhtar, Ph.D. (Department of Dermatology, University of Wisconsin) ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Prevention of Ultraviolet Radiation-induced Oxidative Stress in the Skin by Dietary Phytochemicals – Santosh K. Katiyar, Ph.D. (University of Alabama at Birmingham and Birmingham Veterans Affairs Medical Center) ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Environmental Effects on Skin: Antioxidant Protection against Oxidative Challenge – Ed Pelle, Ph.D. (Estée Lauder Research Laboratories) ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Antioxidants and the Skin – Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D. (Ashland Specialty Ingredients and Fairleigh Dickinson University) ____________________________________________________________________________________________ Development and Agronomic Scale-up of Specialty Crops for Production of Target Molecules – Sheila Dana (Kemin, Des Moines, Iowa)

Poster Competition & Prizes There will be a concurrent poster session.

1st place: $1,500

2nd place: $1,000

3rd place $500

Please send poster abstract submissions by March 15, 2014 to Jenna Jelinski at JJelinski@morretec.com.

Registration EARLY REGISTRATION – PRIOR TO May 15, 2014 Members Non-Members Students/Unemployed Early registration: $75 $125 $0 Late registration: $150 $200 $100 For registration, visit www.nyscc.org.

Hotel Accomodation Club Quarters, World Trade Center 140 Washington Street, New York, NY 10006 Arrival: June 4th • Departure: June 5th or 6th Club Standard Superior

June 4th – $271 June 4th – $291 June 4th – $311

June 5th – $236 June 5th – $256 June 5th – $276

All rates are exclusive of tax and based on single occupancy. There is a charge of $15 for each additional person, age 12 and over. Individuals can call or e-mail directly to our Member Services Department to make room reservations. Member Services can be reached at (203) 905-2100 from Monday – Friday, 7:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m. and Saturday, 10:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. (EST); or via e-mail at memberservices@clubquarters.com. Please mention that you will be attending the NYSCC Antioxidant Symposium at the New York Academy of Sciences. V O L U M E

2 0

N o . 2

13


C

O

S

M

E

T

I

S

C

O

P

E

Cosmetics in Contemporary Brazil May 12, 2014 Renaissance Woodbridge • Iselin, NJ The New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

A

member of the rising economic powers, otherwise known as the BRIC nations and a significant emerging market, Brazil is Latin America's largest economy and the fifth largest country in the world with a population estimated to be about 200 million. Demographically, Brazil is one of the most ethnically diverse countries and a major consumer of personal care products and fragrances. Brazil’s biological diversity is the largest in the world. It is blessed with abundant raw materials, which have many uses in personal care. As more companies are embracing globalization to reach new customers in new markets, a greater understanding of consumer preferences, important product types, and regulatory issues in this vast and growing market is essential. The NYSCC, in conjunction with its world renowned Suppliers’ Day event, has assembled a program of experts to further explore this land of immense opportunities.

n AGENDA

8:00 − 8:30 a.m. 8:30 − 8:45 a.m. 8:45 − 9:30 a.m. 9:30 − 10:15 a.m. 10:15 − 10:30 a.m. 10:30 − 11:15 a.m. 11:15 − 12:00 p.m. 12:00 − 1:00 p.m. 1:00 − 1:45 p.m. 1:45 − 2:30 p.m. 2:30 − 2:45 p.m. 2:45 − 3:30 p.m. 3:30 − 4:15 p.m. 4:15 − 5:00 p.m. 5:00 − 5:15 p.m.

REGISTRATION OPENING COMMENTS Dawn Thiel Glaser Brazil (Beraca) − A Land of Opportunities: Vast Natural Resources and A Growing Personal Care Market Alberto Keidi Kurebayashi (Protocolo Consultoria Personal and Health Care) − Guidelines to Develop Functional and Acceptable Hair and Skin Care Products for the Brazilian Market BREAK Mohamed Omer (Mintel) − By the Numbers: The Personal Care Market in Brazil Jean-François Molina (Solabia) − Overview of Brazilian Biodiversity and its Contribution to Skin and Hair Beauty LUNCH Sergio Oliveir (J&J) − Regulatory and Safety Issues in Brazil Silvia Staniscuaski Guterres (Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul) − Innovative Nanotechnology-based Cosmetics in Brazil: State-of-the-Art and Trends BREAK Dr. Rakesh Jain (Amyris) − Cosmetic Products from Sugarcane Emiro Khury (EK Consultores) − Technological Advances and Regulatory Aspects in Sunscreens Products in Latin America Ana Palombo (Coty) − The Brazilian Fragrance Market CLOSING REMARKS

n COST & REGISTRATION SCC Members $75.00 • Non-members $95.00 • Emeritus Members Free if pre-registered • Students with valid ID $10.00 At the door: $30.00 surcharge in all categories. Register online at www.nyscc.org. • Registration questions: John Carola at johnc@protameen.com.

n COST & REGISTRATION Renaissance Woodbridge Hotel 515 US Highway1 South, Iselin, NJ 08830 GPS ADDRESS: 401 Gill Lane, Iselin, NJ 08830 Hotel is at the corner US HWY 1 South and Gill Lane. 14

F E B R U A R Y

2 0 1 4


W

W

W

.

N

Y

S

C

C

.

O

R

G

Employment Opportunities Send employment ads to…Roger McMullen (roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu). Employment listings published in the Cosmetiscope are abridged due to space limitations. n TECHNICAL MARKETING SUPPORT Gattefossé USA, located in Paramus, NJ, is seeking a Technical Marketing Support Leader. This position will support the marketing activities of the company, with a particular focus on internal tools and training. Job responsibilities: • Provide technical/marketing support and customized training to sales team and distribution network in North America. • Ensure implementation of tools and training modules for sales team and distributors. • Coordinate development, creation, implementation, and delivery of staff training programs and sales tools. • Provide local sales and marketing support including customer visits, seminars, lab sessions, and presentations. • Relay market information to corporate marketing team. • Contribute to execution of marketing plan, including creation and maintenance of newsletters, webinars, presentations, etc. Qualifications: • Bachelor’s or Master’s Degree in a scientific field, with an interest in cosmetic chemistry. • Strong computer skills; must be proficient in Microsoft Office. Knowledge of Adobe Creative Suite is a plus. • Must have excellent communication skills. • Formulating experience and/or marketing background is a plus. Please e-mail cover letter and resume, including salary requirements to: careers@gattefossecorp.com. _____________________________________________________________ 1-30-14 n STAFF SCIENTIST – FEMININE CARE Playtex/Energizer Personal Care, located in Allendale, NJ, is seeking a Staff Scientist to work in Feminine Care. The primary focus for the Staff Scientist will be the development, management, and translation of unique and advantaged technical innovation for application in Feminine Care products. This position will assist the Manager in the development and implementation of unique and advantaged technologies to support the product roadmap. A B.S. in Biomedical, Mechanical, or Chemical Engineering preferred and a minimum of 8-10 years of experience in a related consumer goods category is preferred. Demonstrated ability to lead technical innovation with a history of success with respect to innovation and successful market introductions is mandatory. Apply online: http://www.energizerholdings.com/en/careers/external/Pages/index.aspx _____________________________________________________________ 1-30-14 ASSOCIATE SENSORY SCIENTIST Schick/Energizer Personal Care, located in Milford, CT, is seeking an Associate Sensory Scientist. The successful candidate will execute, analyze, and report research results from sensory testing to ensure product development and innovation project objectives are met. A B.A./B.S. and 1-2 years of experience in a corporate CPG sensory science environment are preferred. Apply online: http://www.energizerholdings.com/en/careers/external/Pages/index.aspx

1-30-14 n STAFF PRODUCT RESEARCHER – CONSUMER SCIENCE Playtex/Energizer Personal Care, located in Allendale, NJ, is seeking a Staff Product Researcher to work in its Consumer Science department. The successful candidate will manage all phases of consumer and sensory research programs in support of Product Development initiatives. He/she will independently develop, implement, and administer a broad spectrum of consumer guidance and sensory projects. In addition, he/she should possess and promote a passion for integrating a consumer perspective into the Product Development process. A B.A./B.S. in Science/Engineering or Behavioral sciences (Psychology, Marketing Research) with 10+ years of relevant experience with consumer product testing within the consumer goods industry is required. Understanding of the new product development lifecycle is desirable. An advanced degree and knowledge of market research beyond product testing in R&D are excellent assets for this job. Apply online: http://www.energizerholdings.com/en/careers/external/Pages/index.aspx _____________________________________________________________ 01-29-14 n APPLICATIONS LAB CHEMIST Kobo Products, Inc., a raw material cosmetic/personal care manufacturer and distributor, is seeking an experienced Applications Lab Chemist. The preferred candidate should have strong communication skills, and at least 3-5 years formulation experience in color cosmetics. Job responsibilities: • Formulate a wide variety of new cosmetic formulas. • Ability to troubleshoot formulas. • Develop and make presentations. • Attend trade shows to support sales with customer discussions. • Flexibility to attend seminars and conferences, if requested. • Ability to work with customers in Kobo’s labs to create new finished products with them. Requirements: • 3-5 years industry experience on the bench formulating cosmetics (i.e., emulsions, anhydrous systems, powders, and sunscreens). • Knowledge of cosmetic/personal care raw materials (i.e., functionality, interactions, and regulatory limits). • Strong problem solving and communication skills (oral and written). • Flexibility to travel domestically and internationally. • Must be able to multi-task in a fast paced environment. • Microsoft Office experience required (Word, Excel, Powerpoint, and Outlook). • Self-motivated. • B.S. degree in related field preferred. Please send resume and include salary requirements to: stortorella@koboproductsinc.com. Please reference “Applications Lab Chemist” in the subject field. _____________________________________________________________ 1-29-14 n RESEARCH DIRECTOR IFF, located in Union Beach, NJ, has an immediate opening for a Research Director who will lead the identification, research, and (Continued on page 16)

V O L U M E

2 0

N o . 2

15


C

O

S

Employment Opportunities development of delivery technologies that provide IFF with new opportunities for profitable growth. This position will support the strategic mission of the Delivery and Material Technology Team via planning and execution of complex technical work under general direction of management. This will involve identifying, developing and prototyping delivery technologies based on a critical assessment of the patent and scientific literature, identified customer and consumer needs, and opportunities for competitive advantage. Accountabilities: • Innovation: Identify emerging trends and opportunities for truly differentiating product technologies and integrate into research program. Collaborate in development and execution of intellectual property strategy to ensure long-term strategic advantage. • External Perspective: Establish and lead relationships with academic and industry partners that expand technical capabilities leading to breakthrough technologies. • Program Leadership: Develop technical approaches, create novel methods and prototypes as well as formulate and execute sound technology validation plans. • This position will require an expert-level understanding of encapsulation and other delivery systems, material science, and related manufacturing processes. The ideal candidate for this position should be able to demonstrate skills to justify eventual promotion to positions of significantly greater responsibility within the organization. Essential: • Ph.D. in Chemistry, Food Science, Chemical Engineering, or other appropriate discipline. • 10-15 years of industrial and/or post-doctoral research experience. • Demonstrated ability to conduct original and independent research as evidenced by patents, publications, etc. • Expert-level understanding of delivery systems. Preferred: • Evidence of significant involvement in new technology development and commercialization. • Strong track record of leading the development of new technologies from concept to commercialization. For more information, go to: www.iff.com/careers. Reference ID is 1702-292. _____________________________________________________________ 1-16-14 n APPLICATIONS CHEMIST Sensient, located in South Plainfield, NJ, is seeking an Applications Chemist. Position summary: • Prepare personal care products following existing formulations under direction of Manager and Senior Chemist. Maintain and manage inventories of existing prototypes for customers, sales kits, and trade shows. Participate in new product development on as needed basis. Conduct all appropriate testing, including stability, and order raw materials and lab supplies. Essential functions: • Must handle multiple projects. • Prepare prototype formulations. • Maintain prototype formulations stock. • Maintain accurate laboratory records. • Assist in new product development. • Color matching and evaluation of samples and raw materials.

16

M

E

T

I

S

C

O

P

E

(Continued from page 15)

• Interface with Technical Services and Quality Control. • Maintain supplies and equipment necessary to develop, package and distribute prototype samples in response to Sales needs. • Abide by company policies/procedures. Education:.Bachelor’s degree in Chemistry or related science preferred. Experience: One to two years of applications formulation in color cosmetics is preferred. Must be proficient in Microsoft Office. Interested candidates should send resumes with salary expectations to: Nada Vansaghi at nada.vansaghi@sensient.com. Please use subject line: Applications Chemist-NJ. _____________________________________________________________ 1-16-14 n CHEMIST/FORMULATOR State-of-the-art private label cosmetic and personal care manufacturing company, located in the lower Hudson Valley New York area, is currently seeking a Chemist/Formulator to join its team. Candidate must work well with minimum supervision to develop a wide variety of new, cost effective products within aggressive timelines. Requires a detailoriented individual who can keep organized data on numerous projects. Works well in a team environment to develop new formulas using existing and new technologies in the personal care product area to support marketing trends and future brand strategies. Must be able to write formulas that will be assigned to lab technicians. Experimentation on the bench with conventional and/or non-conventional/creative approaches with new formula bases, raw ingredients, and processing techniques that will lead to unique product claims and benefits. Must be able to manage multiple projects and be a diligent problem solver, while maintaining a clear sense of priorities and focus. Requirements: Minimum of 3-5 years experience in color cosmetic and personal care formulation. Knowledge of chemistry, raw materials, surfactants, and emulsion technologies is required. Must have strong problem solving, interpersonal, team, project management, bench, and communication (both oral and written) skills. Must be flexible, able to handle multiple projects simultaneously, and work well under pressure. Candidate must possess the ability to use sound judgment in handling unanticipated situations with the ability to conceptualize and apply innovative solutions. Must be self-motivated and work with minimum supervision, and be proficient with computers and entering formulas. Global regulatory cosmetic compliance experience is a plus. For immediate consideration, please send current resume, and salary requirements to: CosmeticPersonalCareChemist@gmail.com. All responses will be kept confidential. _____________________________________________________________ 1-16-14 n CHEMIST/FORMULATOR State-of-the-art private label cosmetic and personal care manufacturing company, located in the lower Hudson Valley New York area, is currently seeking a Chemist/Formulator with a strong regulatory background to join our team. Candidate must work well with minimum supervision to develop a wide variety of new, cost effective products within aggressive timelines. Requires a detail-oriented individual who can keep organized data on numerous projects. Works well in a team environment to develop new formulas using existing and new technologies in the personal care product area to support marketing trends and future brand strategies. Must be able to write formulas that will be assigned to training lab technicians. Experimentation on the

F E B R U A R Y

2 0 1 4


W

W

W

.

N

Y

bench with conventional and/or non-conventional/creative approaches with new formula bases, raw ingredients, and processing techniques that will lead to unique product claims and benefits. Must be able to manage multiple projects, write product claims, report on technical subjects, and be a diligent problem solver, while maintaining a clear sense of priorities and focus. Also must be able to identify, and order, innovative new raw materials for efficacy in high-end skin care and color cosmetics. Experience with formulation is a plus. Requirements: A B.S. or B.A. in Chemistry, Biochemistry, Pharmacy, or equivalent science, with a minimum of 5 years experience in cosmetic and personal care formulations. Knowledge of chemistry, raw materials, surfactants, and emulsion technologies is required. Must have experience with global regulatory cosmetic compliance (including EU, Canada, Japan, China) and testing guidelines. Must have strong problem solving, interpersonal, team, project management, bench, and communication (both oral and written) skills. Must be flexible, able to handle multiple projects simultaneously, and work well under pressure. Candidate must possess the ability to use sound judgment in handling unanticipated situations with the ability to conceptualize and apply innovative solutions. Must be self-motivated and work with minimum supervision and be proficient with computers, data research, and reviewing patents. Strong knowledge of competitive cosmetic landscapes is required. For immediate consideration, please send current resume, three professional references, and salary requirements to: CosmeticPersonalCareChemist@gmail.com. All responses will be kept confidential. _____________________________________________________________ 1-16-14 n FORMULATION CHEMIST (DAYTON, NJ) Salvona Technologies, a technology company specializing in advanced controlled release systems in nanotechnology and microencapsulation for topical (skin) applications, is seeking a Formulation Chemist in its Dayton, NJ facility. Duties: • Develop practical final formulations for the personal care and dermatology markets. • Conduct skin/scalp/hair tests to affirm product efficacy. • Qualify products and evaluate product stability. Practical knowledge required: • 1-3 years of formulation experience. • Practical experience in the field of cosmetic, personal care, dermatology, or household product development is preferred. • Knowledge of topical skin care formulation ingredients, procedures, and esthetics (Cosmetic/Dermatological preferred). General Qualifications: • Bachelor’s degree in Chemistry or equivalent experience. • Ability to communicate effectively with teams and prospects. • Demonstrated ability to focus on achieving commercial goals. • Proven ability to work independently, being motivated and selfdisciplined. • Familiar with Excel and able to compute and interpret basic statistical analysis (Student’s t test). • Familiar with Powerpoint and able to present technical project reviews. • Able to handle multiple tasks under stressful conditions. • Excellent verbal communication and computer skills. • Hands on person. How to Apply: Visit http://salvona.wufoo.com/forms/salvona-job-application/. At this time, our company is not offering to sponsor visa candidates.

V O L U M E

2 0

N o . 2

S

C

C

.

O

R

G

1-16-2014 Hayward Laboratories Subs, ET Browne Drug Co. Inc. has several professional positions open. We are located in East Stroudsburg, PA, minutes from Northwest NJ, located right over RT 80 in the Delaware Water Gap area.

n 1.QA LAB MANAGER Responsibilities: • Manage all testing requirements for raw materials and finished goods. • Assure that company meets all regulations including GMP and GLP in accordance with FDA and European ISO standards. • Manage supplier approval programs. Requirements: • Minimum B.S. degree in applied science, and 5 years experience in OTC/Cosmetic environment. • Familiarity with advanced analytical instrumentation is a plus, and must have good computer skills. • Must be a leader, team player, and self-starter. n 2. INTERNATIONAL REGULATORY AFFAIRS MANAGER Responsibilities: • Assure product and ingredient regulatory compliance to support export markets. • Correspond with regulatory bodies and foreign subsidiaries as needed. • Assess regulatory trends and developments in cosmetic and personal care products. • Interact with Marketing, Sales, and Product Development regarding EU, ASEAN, NICNAS, ANVESA, etc. Requirements: • Minimum B.S. degree in an applied science. • Minimum 5 years regulatory compliance experience in cosmetics and personal care.

n 3. ANALYTICAL CHEMIST, INSTRUMENTATION SPECIALIST Responsibilities: • Must be able to operate and maintain HPLC, GC, FTIR, and UV-VIS instrumentation. • Must be familiar with sunscreen, preservative, and other method development, calibration, validation, and transfer. • Responsible for supporting other activities of the QC laboratory. Requirements: • B.S. degree in Chemistry or related field. • 3+ years experience in an OTC/Cosmetic environment, and USP procedures. Please forward your resume and salary requirements to: wneumann@etbrowne.com. _____________________________________________________________

1-16-14 n REGULATORY AFFAIRS SPECIALIST Playtex, a division of Energizer Personal Care located in Allendale, NJ, is a leading manufacturer and distributor of consumer and personal care products. The Regulatory Affairs Specialist provides regulatory guidance and support to the successful commercialization of all personal care product categories, with emphasis on cosmetics and OTC drugs. A Bachelor’s degree in Biology or Chemistry and 4-6 years related regulatory experience is required. Must have thorough knowledge of FDA regulations and experience with cosmetic, drug, and/or device product registration. Apply online: http://www.energizerholdings.com/en/careers/external/Pages/index.aspx (Continued on page 18)

17


C

O

S

Employment Opportunities 1-16-14 n SCIENTIST Rodan + Fields, LLC is seeking a scientist with technical understanding of skin care and OTC product categories to play a pivotal role in the development and manufacturing of the company’s domestic and international skin care and OTC products. 7+ years of skincare product development and manufacturing experience and a Bachelor’s degree in Chemistry or related field is required. Responsibilities include moving product prototypes from the formulation stage, through scaleup, into full-scale manufacturing and through product life-cycle manufacturing. Responsibilities also include process improvements, implementation of formulation changes, CMO technical management, and, with the quality group, implementation of corrective actions. Please send resume to: jclausen@rodanandfields.com. _____________________________________________________________ 1-16-14 n SALES REPRESENTATIVE: COSMETIC SPECIALTIES NORTHEAST Independent Chemical Corporation. Job description: The Technical Sales Representative will promote the sales of Independent Chemical’s Cosmetic Specialty and Commodity Products in his/her territory and, in certain cases, also develop the business at Regional or Global Key Accounts, traveling up to 70% of the time. This position reports to our Glendale, NY home office but will be home based, and the candidate must live within the territory. The territory consists of the Northeast United States beginning in Northern NJ and north to Eastern Canada. The sales target for the territory is approximately $5 million. Major responsibilities: • Develop new applications for Specialty Products while growing Commodity Products; optimize selling prices taking into account profit volume opportunities on commodities across our product lines. • Set pricing for commodities to meet company targets.

18

M

E

T

I

S

C

O

P

E

(Continued from page 17)

• Develop contacts with customers at all levels in the commercial and technical departments to strengthen their business relationship with Independent Chemical. • Regularly monitor the financial situation of his/her customers and make sure that their payments to Independent are on time. • Plan all customer visits through the establishment of clear objectives and action plans. • Produce and keep updated a Market Data Base of the territory where all the relevant information on customers, volumes, and prices of the commodities used, their application, and the competitors positioning is available. • Independently set commodity pricing in cooperation with supplier pricing to meet profit targets. Choose which products to offer for specific markets. • Weekly reporting on the major accomplishments and challenges in his/her territory. • Work in close cooperation with Customer Support Representatives and Sourcing Group for new materials. • Have strong technical knowledge of specialties and commodities in different cosmetic applications and keep this knowledge updated. Desired skills and experience: • Bachelor’s degree in Chemistry, Chemical Engineering, or related field. • 3+ years in a cosmetics formulation lab—skin, hair, or color. • 2-5 years of sales experience in service and technology based industries. • Cosmetics specialty chemical sales experience is preferred. • Demonstrated experience in solving commercial and technical problems with customers. • Strong interpersonal/sales background coupled with an understanding of the sales process and selling excellence methods. Respond to: Jonathan@Independentchemical.com. More info: www.Independentchemical.com.

F E B R U A R Y

2 0 1 4


Cosmetiscope 02 2014 fpdf2