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Daisy Churchward The Fashion Writer (CJO409) Portfolio News: What does fashion actually mean? Art Culture renewed in Southampton Features: The Perfect Handbag Catherine Hepwright Profile How-to get the perfect party outfit Appendix: Dash For Cash Southampton Solent University Range


What  does  fashion  actually  mean?   Southampton’s shoppers today shared some of their fashion secrets; including favourite shops, clothing items and inspiration. Many thought that clothes and fashion were of some important. Jack Butterfield, a 19year-old student from Mercury Point Southampton said: “I always want to look my best, when I look my best I feel most confident”. Jack, a Sports Management student at Solent University, dressed in tracksuit bottoms and a t-shirt added: “Looking good is important, I see what’s new in shops and use internet shopping but I don’t generally go out of my way to read about it.” His average spend monthly on clothes was about £50, but his university course provided him with a uniform for his degree. This is a view shared by Andy Cruse, a student, who works for Topman in Bristol. He explained: “It is my job to follow and wear Topman’s newest and best trends and always be up to date with the newest lines. At the moment I’m employed to wear cord chinos and stripy tee/ print tees. The trend I like to follow is more of the typical ‘pretty boy’ style however, I like to try and add my own twist to the look and sometimes I disagree with the image they try and promote using their staff.” With a fashion based job, this is a great source of inspiration. Vicky McDonald, an 18-year-old shop assistant from St Denys also has to wear a uniform. She said: “At work I wear the same dress 40 hours a week for three months, so at weekends I like dressing up, even for a meal I wear six inch heels.” Clearly working in a uniform is restricting, though More magazine is her favourite way to keep up with the latest fashion trends and inspiration. Despite working in West One, a women’s clothing store in The Marlands shopping centre, she said New Look was her favourite clothing store.


While some find their inspiration from street-style and magazines, music artists have played inspiration for years within fashion, from the likes of Madonna and the Sex Pistols. “I am a musician, so I'm constantly listening to different music from my favourite artists, one being a band called Enter Shikari. Their frontman has recently set up his own line of clothing 'Step Up HQ' and I’ve bought a few items from their online store,” additional Alfie Jeffries, 24, a music graduate, from Shirley in Southampton. People find inspiration in different places but n this economical climate, money is most definitely a factor in shopping and while some may not put a price on style some people like to be quite savvy. Vicky Smith, unemployed, 23-year-old said: “I don’t always wear clothes for comfort, I do want to look nice but wouldn’t want to spend a lot on them. I find inspiration of shopping websites such as River Island, which is my favourite shop, and from peers. In winter I like my bobble hat and Uggs.” Word Count: 492


Art  Culture  Renewed  in  Southampton   Southampton City Council today revealed impressive plans for the new Art Complex in the city centre. The Art Complex will feature a range of arts, including; performance, fine art, sculpture, and film & TV. There will be two separate buildings, the North focusing on performance art. Two auditoriums will be created in this building, one holding 445 people and another holding 110. In addition to performance pieces, such as theatre and dance, they will be commercially rented to external companies to create profit. ‘Creation spaces’ in the building will be used for workshops for the public community. The John Hansard Gallery of Southampton University has joined the Art Complex. Jil Low said: “The John Hansard Gallery and University of Southampton want to get that feeling of being in the City Centre and so people can walk pass, drop in and do different activities, so that they can make contemporary art really accessible.” The gallery is currently situated out the of city centre. The South building will have the ‘most controlled art gallery for special exhibitions’. Over the past 14 years the project has been in production, the budget has increased. An increase in funding from the Arts Council has brought the budget to £20 million. Southampton City Council have kick-started the project with a £2 million investment and then following with £160,000 a year once opened. Jill Low said: “This is a really good thing, it will generate much more business around the surrounding area”. Ben White, the Communications Director for Southampton City Council said: “What’s really important is to recognise that public finances at the moment are dyer,


you know that, and they’re not going to get better anytime soon, so looking at it from a commercial success it has to be something that is going to making money. Because we can’t be in a tradition where the council bails out on a venture like this because we can’t afford it.” The complex is also set to provide 2000 extra jobs. Ben White explained: “We have a very strong relationship with Associated British Ports.” As Southampton is a gateway, a lot of tourists are brought into the city through cruise companies. Having a good connection with these companies will hopefully attract a lot of cruise trade. The buildings will feature partnerships with other companies to also bring in visitors and create profit. Restaurants, cafes, coffee shops and bars will be in amongst the art galleries; attracting an audience who initially aren’t interested in art. The project leader of the cultural complex, Jill Low explained: “We are in the middle of a city that needs quite serious regeneration.” Jill Low has worked with similar previous projects, including the Gantry (an arts centre based at Mayflower) and ‘the art gallery in Salisbury’. City Eye Southampton, a company that help promote film and video culture, have also joined forces and will continue to do so in the South Building of the Art Complex. Despite the Art Complex not being completed until Spring 2015, Sea City, will open with a Titanic theme in 2012, on the anniversary of the ship’s sinking. Ben White and Jill Low both hope that it won’t be just tourists using the complex. Low stated: “Culture is an absolutely essential part of life, and it will bring much more life to an area,” and whilst a minority of locals apparently aren’t keen on the idea with a generalised opinion of “culture isn’t for me” it seems Jill Low is still positive about the project. She expressed: “‘This is a great passion of mine, I want to make sure a real mixture of arts get back into Southampton, I want to have street


theatre, things spilling out of the complex onto the street, a feeling of excitement and connectivity for Southampton.” Architecturally the building should attract passers by, large windows will be on the ground floor so people can look in. Jill Low was very fixed with having an “informal atmosphere but in a very modern building.” Local primary schools, colleges and both Southampton University and Southampton Solent will be encouraged to participate and have great opportunities to help produce work for the complex. Low said: “We will be working closely with lecturers and the students too” Next to the complex on Above Bar Street, there will be 36 flats created for the public. These will be for sale, but will be owned by Grosvenor Practical Development. Word Count: 737


The  Perfect  Handbag   Finding the perfect handbag has become a bit of a chore. Yes, this search has been done hundreds of times before, but I don’t expect to find a handbag. In fact, I have well and truly given up. The stress of do we go timeless? On trend? Miniature? Oversize? And if I see the term ‘IT bag’ again, I feel as if I will cry. I do not want a bag to only last a season. I want it to last years. With Christmas approaching slowly but surely, I have been prowling for my bag. But I have a constant dilemma of which bag will last the longest, keep me looking in vogue and ahead in the class stakes. Going for a classic is a good start, you

know

it’s

not

going

to

immediately go out of fashion and you know you won’t experience the patronising looks from the women who ‘have it all’ but there is a danger however, of turning up in the same bag as everybody when popping out for a social coffee or dinner. This is where it gets tremendously tricky. Classic or quirky? Herme’s Birkin or the Christian Louboutin Anastacia bag. One of which would be extremely impractical for most of the year in dreary England. The Mulberry Bayswater is one bag that I see on a everyday basis. A classic of course, but is it starting to become, dare I say, common? Similarly bags such as the Chanel 2.55 that just exudes glamour have been copied and imitated to a point where it has started to look tacky.


Certain handbags represent your inner-self, what you stand for, what you appreciate in life, and your level of classiness. You all know the look you give people when they walk down the road with a Chloe handbag compared to the look when someone has the latest Gucci copy from Primark. Just yesterday I saw a young, very orange tanned mum, get extremely over excited by a hot-pink silky clutch with diamantés stuck all over it in the queue in Primark. I don’t try to be a snob, but my gosh. There are just some pieces of fashion that should never exist and this was definitely one of them. So, choosing the right bag is essential, because it represents you. No matter how materialistic, superficial, or shallow it sounds. You know it is true. The high-street is a place that is often disregarded for a serious shopper. Yes, celebrities shop here, even our newest Princess has started shopping there to prove she’s ‘down to earth. But I can’t imagine celebrities queuing at the door of Topshop for their opening of a new season for a new handbag anytime soon. The status symbol that a handbag holds is too important for celebrities to sink to most of our levels. Photo after photo of Miss Beckham gracing magazines, clutching her Hermes in every colour under the sun. It’s clear that designer bags won’t be going out of style anytime soon. Clearly we can’t all afford £3000 for a new handbag, so I always end up in Zara, Topshop or Urban Outfitters. It is a bit of a risk to buy from these shops, Zara I could potentially end up looking like a middle-aged woman, Topshop I could end up looking like a Christmas decoration, and Urban Outfitters I could end up looking like a the new era of teens; ‘hipsters’. So this is where the research kicks in. Hours and hours spent trawling through website pages, busy trips picking up bags, touching them and checking the prices. Some of us might even enjoy this, but I end up an emotional wreck. Do you not think I am being over dramatic? Possibly, yes. But it is in my genes. Grandma has a bag for every occasion, every holiday when a new outfit is bought a new handbag has to be purchased to match the outfit. Every wedding, birthday, even every funeral. Even though I only want one bag for everything, there is no doubt my


Grandma has influenced my shopping patterns. It seemed to skip a generation in my family. Mother was never bothered about clothes, going from a punk to a hippy and then just bouncing back into a motherly style. A Radley bag is perhaps the only bag she owns and I doubt she even knows what ‘Radley’ is. My collection only consists of about thirteen handbags. Some classics such as a satchel bag, canvas totes for everyday use but also a miniature Mulberry Bayswater belt bag. And when I say miniature, it truly is. My purse is bigger than this bag. It was part of my eighteenth birthday present and of course I am grateful, but it’s just so damn unpractical. If my purse doesn’t fit in it there really is no hope. Each new season we are bombarded with magazines and blog entries shoving brand new styles of bags at us. I beg for bags not to change each season and that designers just settle for one bag for three years and then change. Even though I know that it is a load of rubbish ‘keeping in fashion’ is, I still feel the need to be kept in the loop and kept up to date. I’ve always loved that side of being a woman though. I know lots of people that would ‘prefer to be a man’ just because of the clothing predicaments. I don’t think I’d ever want to give it up. No matter the amount of whining and whinging I’ve done, I like to shop. So still, my search continues. I’m not going to go out of my way to try and search for a perfect bag. Browsing shops for clothes and other pleasantries, without feeling the need to find ‘that one item’. I am going to take a backseat for a while. Hoping that one day and out of the blue shopping trip will help land the perfect bag in my lap. If ever. Word Count: 1001


Catherine  Hepwright  Profile   At first she looks larger than life, tall and proud with large, dark rimmed glasses. Stood talking to a customer with great intensity and as soon as I see her I think she will dominate conversation with great magnetism, though I misunderstood her strong charisma for passion. In a long, leopard print fur coat she looked the epitome of vintage. Her hair was styled minimally in a shoulder length, messy bob, contrasting with her eccentric clothing, her coat was removed and a black, lace housecoat was revealed. She professed her love for ‘a placement pattern’ which was featured on the bottom of her burgundy skirt. It ended mid-calf and showed her black, floral lace tights. Clearly not afraid of mixing her prints. She sat down at the edge of her desk cupping a Costa, well, who isn’t holding one these days? Then raising her iPhone, evidently on track with technology, she took a picture of the room and stated she was ‘tweeting’. This was one of the last things I expected; a woman so deeply interested in vintage clothes to be up to date with technology but later on I learn she’s quite the dab hand with computers. Catherine Hepwright or should I say Catherine Wright sits before me surrounded by beautiful clothing and visibly feels quite at home. I mention her original name (Catherine Wright), as there is importance in her shop name Hepwright’s. ‘Hep’ comes from three sources of inspiration, the obvious Audrey Hepburn, the other Catherine Hepburn and the ‘hep CATS’ of the fifties Her shop, situated in Bedford Place, is a vintage boutique, selling clothes from a range of eras. Vintage to Catherine means 25 years or older so most of the surrounding clothes are from the 80’s or previous. Her love for vintage doesn’t have a beginning. For her she has been around vintage, and home-made clothes all of her life. Her mother was an actress which meant she spent a lot of time behind the scenes in theatre surrounded by the costumes. Though the woman who raised her was interested in fashion and Catherine acquired a love for the magazine Vogue from her ‘snobbish’ step-mother.


Catherine Hepwright hasn’t always been a business woman. Around seven years ago the vintage business started, previous to this she had lived in London and Paris. After not doing as well as she would have hoped in her A-levels, she moved to London. She got a job at a theatre company called Bedside Manners and acted as wardrobe maintenance and dresser. This industry had always been close to her heart. Despite working within vintage industry, her great passion, she still describes the time at the theatre as, ‘the best two years of my life.’ In Paris she worked as a nanny for three years, though this for her was quite a lonely period of her life. Working abroad led to a restricted friend network and it ended up just being her ‘and the kids.’ When starting to discuss the journey of her vintage business she flips back her glasses revealing a more approachable looking woman. Her journey began when her and her friend Donna realised their love for vintage clothes and the items that they had in the back of their wardrobe. Despite owning these vintage items they concluded that they wouldn’t necessarily wear the clothes so started to sell on eBay. After developing their online eBay store ‘Spy Baby Vintage’ they moved into the basement of a café to store their clothes. This drew the public in to view the clothes and they ended up selling straight from the basement. Donna’s music career started to take off which led to Catherine working for herself. Selling in a rented flat just once a week to the public, gradually the prospect of opening an actual shop came about. After a name change due to the emotional attachment that Donna and Catherine both shared with ‘Spy Baby Vintage’, Hepwright’s opened. Catherine was very wary of opening an actual shop due to her family situation, being a single mum. Previous to her business her life had suffered some rather gloomy moments. She’d been in two car crashes but was very adamant that neither of them were her fault in a playful, exaggerated way, making me a bit suspicious. As well as having to undergo the trauma that is a house fire. Her children had also suffered from illnesses, which meant they were in and out of hospital. This lead to a time of depression. First impressions would suggest Catherine was quite reserved in regards


to her personal life, but the way she spoke about depression was very open. Letting me know that there is no shame in having it and even described the disorder as ‘common as muck.’ She doesn’t seem too down-heartened about her depression but possibly because she believes that the vintage business would never have happened if she hadn’t suffered from it. ‘A clean slate’ is what she needed to start her business, it ‘gave the opportunity, it swept everything away.’ It’s clear her dedication is in vintage, and she thinks that the first port of call should be second hand when buying new clothes. I get the impression that originality is something close to her heart, she said she wanted ‘to give out badges with ‘Well Done!’’ while rather excitedly and enthusiastically thumbs upping me, to people on the street with original style and gave a punk with a huge Mohican as an example. The reading of Vogue seems a bit of a contrast compared to her own style and her views on the rapid rate that clothes are now produced. Her excuse is Haute Couture. Haute Couture is allowed, it’s only one of a kind. .Just over a year Hepwright’s has been open; and the lease was signed for five years meaning she still has a lot to give; the longest commitment to date. The goal of her business is the possibility to be able to sell the shop, though rather cynically put by Catherine: ‘If the economy doesn’t kill us’. Word Count: 1013


How-­‐To  Get  The  Perfect  Party  Outfit   Piles of dresses on the floor and shoes sprawled on the bed, discarded because the ‘look’ isn’t right, this is probably a sorry sight that you’ve seen far too often. With Christmas approaching fast and invitations flooding in, there is panic to find the perfect dress for the holiday season. And that’s without shoes and the handbag! Well, here we have it all, the ideal dress and accessories to wow at parties. Always wondered what’s appropriate for the Christmas work’s do? What’s pretty and attractive but isn’t too provocative that you attract your boss in the wrong way… Well this outfit will be for you. But first a few rules: Try to avoid red and green at Christmas, the tendency to look too festive like Santa or even a Christmas tree is highly likely particularly if you accessorise with sparkles. Though they are a must and should be integrated into your outfit in some way or form, whether you prefer some glitter on your shoes or even just smoky eye make up with a metallic sheen, shine is essential. With that in mind why not wear a dress full of shine? Without the tackiness of course. This Zara dress sums up this time of year. Simple shape, but still gold and sparkly. Though it isn’t the ‘brash’ gold that we see a tad too much of on the tree. The matte sequins are more of a champagne colour, well who said matching your drink over the season was a bad thing? And don’t worry if it’s a work meal, there isn’t anything body-con about this dress so eating all that you can manage is acceptable in this case, it is Christmas after all.


This dress lacks figure hugging qualities but the shape is still sophisticated so is suitable for your male colleagues. The neckline isn’t too low and the hemline covers your bum, your safe. A dress that your girlfriends will admire more than your boyfriend. Wear a simple black blazer on top to make it look more formal and less party. So now the conundrum is the shoes. A choice that is somewhat based on the situation of the party. Surely there have been far too many nights in the past when your feet are throbbing whilst you still try and smile for as long as you can. Simplest answer, wear flats. Then again where is the fun in that. Heels are something lusted for all year round, just owning certain pairs of heels can make us feel better without any intention of wearing them ever. Topshop or Louboutins, it shouldn’t matter. Go with a classic. The dress is the centre piece, gold and sparkly and your ‘stand-out’ piece. Newlook have one of the best ranges of shoes on the high-street; second biggest shoe retailer after Clarks. A more comfortable style than the usual classic court shoe with stiletto heel, is the block heel. Not only more comfortable, but easier to walk in too. Part of Newlook’s limited edition range, this shoe is classically shaped but the matted texture contrasted with the gold shine give them a slight twist. The works party is probably a place where you don’t want to show off your quirky side too much. Stay classic and elegant and impress your colleagues. Being ‘matchy matchy’ will show your attention to detail as well as looking timeless. Gold is a big colour to wear so don’t mix with any other bold colours, or god forbid another metallic. Black should be your accent colour when wearing gold, particularly with this champagne shade.


Just like the comfiness of the shoes, the size of the bag is an issue. Not such a big issue nowadays as the size of clutch bags have increased like crazy, to the point where they are the same size as normal everyday handbags therefore you always have room. This clutch, again is black and gold, still tying in with the theme colours. And is of a substantial size, no need to tip the contents of your purse or make up bag into this, it should all fit. The leather mixed with the tiny bit of faux pony faux makes an interesting combination of textures but isn’t so in your face it’ll distract away from the dress. The Topshop clutch is perfect for the Christmas period as well as taking you into the New Year and really could match pretty much any evening outfit. The thing about a clutch bag is the elegance it brings, you stand differently with a clutch and heels. That’s the outfit sorted. But remember the outfit isn’t everything. You still have to behave. The do’s and don’ts are kind of obvious, but then again there is always one girl at the party that breaks the rules, just make sure it isn’t you! Do’s: Compliment your colleagues clothes, everyone likes a compliment and as long as you stick to complimenting one item, ‘Oh I love that bag’ rather than their whole attire as you might end up coming off as a bit of a creep. Do keep your dignity, if you have a boyfriend obviously stay loyal, but if you are single don’t end up kissing the face of one your slightly attractive male colleagues. Other women will hate it and you know you will regret it in the morning. Don’ts


Don’t get too tipsy, alcohol might be flowing freely but always make sure you are drinking less than your boss. This ‘don’t’ also prevents any embarrassing dancing or getting on top of any surrounding tables… Try and avoid any office talk at any point during the night, the night is a social event not a meeting, people want to find out who is the real you, not the girl who sits behind the desk. So now there are no excuses for you not to look fabulous and to end up losing your job, stick to these rules and you’ll have a magnificent night. Word Count: 993


Extra Piece of Work: Appendix

Dash  For  Cash  Southampton  Solent   University  Range   Southampton Solent University fashion students today began a dash for cash to sell a new clothing range. Four teams on the Fashion Management with Marketing degree have set up pop up shops around the university campus. A collegiate fashion range was launched three weeks ago, but over four days during the next week teams will compete to sell the most items. A prize will be awarded to the winners. The live project creates experience and universal skills for a range of students in their particular industry of study, which can be used in future employment. Local companies were used promotionally, such as nightclubs in Bedford Place giving free entry and one team was sponsored by The Orange Rooms. It first began with winning a governmental bid to fund the project over a year ago. Level two fashion students were then given the job to design a collection. Fifteen pieces of clothing were created including t-shirts, hoodies, joggers and varsity jackets with a variation on the colour. Fashion Managing with Marketing students then took on the task to sell the clothes. Prior to this week the four teams have used different marketing strategies to target audience and sell as much stock as possible. The ‘Orange’ team has tried a range of techniques to try and promote the clothing. Alex Smith, 20, a third year student said: ‘We took our own photos of the clothes to show our own spin, then put them on Facebook and Twitter.’


Social networking sites have greatly helped the students as most use them. Araminto, 21, also a third year student, said the ‘Blue’ team have also used Facebook to promote the new collection. Alongside this, on the first day of selling they have communicated thoroughly with the students to gain attention. Amy Wells, 20, from the ‘Blue’ team, said approaching was key and also ‘flirting with the boys who walk past’ was a method that was being used a lot. The prime place of just inside the entrance of the university was given to he ‘Blue’ team but only for one of the four days. Whilst promotions are key in selling the collection, the garments are just as important. Jodie Coles, 25, joint team leader of the ‘Yellow’ team stated her favourite piece as the t-shirt and predicted that t-shirts and hoodies would be the best selling items. Other departments of the university have also been involved; MBA student, Lorraine Mankoo devised a marketing strategy; Elin Bengston created a website, Mark Wing (staff) shaped a copyright assignment to the patent. The clothes have an ‘American varsity’ feel to them and Head of Fashion, Emma Pritchard compared the styles to Fat Face and Hollister clothing. These brands have become very popular amongst students, the prime consumer for Southampton Solent University clothing. The colour scheme was kept simple along with the graphics, all showing the SSU logo though. Female, male and unisex pieces were all created. Prices range from £10.99 for a t-shirt to £40 for a varsity jacket. Word Count: 501


Portfolio 1st term