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MENSWEAR DESIGNER FILE Z A C H A R Y

C Y G A N E K


DESIGNERS: James Long Sibling Rag & Bone Z Zegna Dolce & Gabbana Dsquared2 Damir Doma Walter van Beirendonck Versace Prada Missoni Jil Sander Givenchy Fendi Dior Homme Bottega Veneta


JAMES LONG BACKGROUND: James Long earned a MA in Menswear and Accessories at the Royal College of Art. Long is a promising London menswear designer; in 2012 the British Fashion Council announced him as a recipient of the Fashion Forward award. DESIGN IDENTITY: Long’s signature use of sleek leather, innovative print, soft knit and classic denim make his brand instantly recognizable. His aesthetic mixes the signatures mentioned above with sharp designs and contrasting elements. Every season Long makes new and exciting combinations of otherwise not easily paired techniques; his ability to always evolve guarantees his success along side his competitors. CUSTOMER: A Long customer is a clean cut guy with likewise clean but exciting style needs. The customer may appear as the “bad boy” type and is seen as having a high level of confidence in self and dress by his co-workers. He does not shy away from print or texture, enjoys separates and is drawn to the Long brand silhouette. AW 14: Long drew inspired from cosplay; the styling supports the subject matter with the sleek, blue-haired models. The most striking feature seen in the collection is the beautifully odd quilting that appeared on many of the jackets and pants. References: British Fashion Council, Style.com


SIBLING CREATIVE TRIO: Joe Bates, Sid Bryan & Cozette McCreery BACKGROUND: A collaboration between the three designers from the UK started in May 2008 with the desire to give knitwear for men an interesting update. The brand’s goal is not solely to produce nice garments for the runway but to create a production for people to experience. DESIGN IDENTITY: Sibling creates colorful, well-made, luxury knitwear. Their method to the madness is playing off traditional classics and updating them to a fun and unique level. The label’s DNA has become an aesthetic of bold, hand knit signatures. CUSTOMER: Sibling’s typical customer is a man with a “strong sense of humors defined by his obvious sense of fashion.” A customer of Sibling understands and appreciates the craft and time put into the clothing; therefore, the customer will pay more for the handwork versus a typical sweater from another brand. AW 14: “A love letter in knit from us to all workingmen.” -Cozette McCreery. The collection features hot-pink leopard printed drop-crotch sweatpants, patched-up denims, various thermals, and loosely knitted short-shorts. References: British Fashion Council, Style.com


RAG & BONE CREATIVE DUO: Marcus Wainwright & David Neville BACKGROUND: Marcus Wainwright and Nathan Bogle started Rag & Bone in 2002 but it was until 2004 that they even had a product; three years after the start Nathan Bogle was replaced by David Neville. The New York based brand now has twelve retail stores globally. DESIGN IDENTITY: Wainwright and Neville blend New York street, American sportswear, and classic tailoring. The balance they create between the three different ideas makes for aesthetically pleasing products. Rag & Bone CUSTOMER: Rag & Bone is “smartly priced at the advanced contemporary level.” A Rag & Bone customer likes semi-sporty clothing; they also look to the brand for more casual wear. The Rag & Bone man appreciates a garments functionality but not at the expensive of visual appeal. AW 14: R&B’s collection took on a direction different from their Spring show digging into their English tailoring heritage. The inspiration for their collection: having no theme. Going back to the foundation of what real menswear is. References: WWD, Style.com


Z ZEGNA Ermenegildo Zegna CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Paul Surridge BACKGROUND: Z Zegna is the youthful line of the Italian brand Zegna. The line represents the young fashionable style that young men have with a classic Zegna approach. Z Zegna takes after Zegna’s appreciation and use of high quality textiles. Z Zegna strives for creating elegant designs for the modern man. DESIGN IDENTITY: Z Zegna takes pride in the brand’s ability to marry rich, classic tailoring with their customers desire for a modern product. The brand makes tailoring appeal to the youthful by playfully incorporating some pattern and balancing neutral and pop colors. The slim silhouette caters toward the appearance that many young men desire. CUSTOMER: The typical Z Zegna customer is concerned with keeping up his polished modern image. His masculinity is a strong characteristic he displays; his style reflects this as well. He enjoys a nice tailored look yet still likes a more casual look that could include a statement coat. AW 14: Surridge took inspiration from the sixties and made a collection that appeals to Z Zegna’s customer. The details were not overly abundant but the atmosphere and styling were spot on. References: Style.com


DOLCE & GABBANA BACKGROUND: Established in 1985 by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the Italian fashion house has maintained an impressive reputation for luxury and class. In 1992, they presented their first men’s collection in Milan. DESIGN IDENTITY: Initially born out of sheer passion and then becoming the embodiment of the Dolce&Gabbana universe today, designs from D&G are inspired by cultural and historical tradition. Embellished surfaces, interesting color palettes and classic tailoring with a modern feel are characteristics that can be expected from D&G. CUSTOMER: “At his ease, he dresses for himself, a little hedonistic he pays considerable attention to details. He loves everything that doesn’t schematize him. He’s free and he’s successful. He can go to the office wearing an impeccable pinstripe suit or equally with worn out jeans and blazer. He’s a man who lays down the rules, he’s not subjected to them. Exuding charisma, he imposes his traditions by wearing the cap, the waistcoat and the timeless white T-shirt vest.” AW 14: “But Dolce & Gabbana’s switch from folksy Siciliana to a darker, gutsier historicism came in the nick of time. There wasn’t much more they could wring in fashion terms from salt-of-the-earth villagers.” References: dolcegabbana.com, Style.com


DSQUARED2 CREATIVE DIRECTORS: Dean and Dan Caten BACKGROUND: Dean and Dan Caten are identical twin brothers form Canada who attended Parson;s School of Design then moving to Italy to work with top fashion houses before having their first men’s collection show. DESIGN IDENTITY: Dsquared2 collections have conquered a wider audience and, owing to their natural stylistic maturity, have become more chic and sophisticated while maintaining those sexy and provocative traits so embedded in their creative roots. Causal, tailored, t-shirts, suits, underwear… Dean and Dan do it all. CUSTOMER: Justin Timberlake, Lenny Kravitz, Ricky Martin. AW 14: “The bad boy is a stock figure in the Caten Repertory Company. Dean and Dan have followed his devil-may-care fortunes through any number of all-boys-together environments. But today the boy was paying the penultimate price for his badness: He was banged up in the pen.” References: dsquared2.com, Style.com


DAMIR DOMA BACKGROUND: In 2007 Doma made his debut at Paris Fashion Week and kicked off the fashion world’s love for the designer’s contemporary take on menswear, and specifically his ability to create a masculine aesthetic through his signature draping. DESIGN IDENTITY: Doma has a very distinct style of masculine draping. His use of draping varies from the norm of menswear and creates pleasant surprises. His aesthetic is a minimal one; he prefers clean, uncluttered silhouettes. His designs have been described as intellectual and poetic. CUSTOMER: Usher, Kanye West, Robert Pattinson. Doma’s clothes cater to a variety of customer backgrounds and can be worn by guys with different overall tastes. AW 14: “”We live in a moment when fashion is borderline entertainment,” he said. “I wanted to do an earnest and very direct collection. Things I want to wear, and you want to wear.”” References: Style.com


WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK BACKGROUND: Beirendonck graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 1980. WVB is consider to be one of ‘The Antwerp Six’ and has been producing collections with the Walter Van Beirendonck label since 1983. WVB is the head of fashion at his alma mater. DESIGN IDENTITY: Art, music and literature, all mixed with ethnic and nature influences are WVB’s inspirations. The red thread throughout his collections is his sense of humor. His continuous statements about the fashion-world, earth, nature, contemporary life and society are present in prints and slogans. CUSTOMER: A WVB man is a confident, fun, cool guy. He can wear a WVD suit to a client meeting or to the office of the fashion magazine he works for. He also appreciated the message behind Beirendonck’s clothing. AW 14: “”Crossed Crocodiles Growl.” Sounds like an anagram or a cryptic crossword clue, but today it was the title Beirendonck gave his Fall collection. Turns out crossed crocodiles are a symbol of unity in diversity in some parts of Africa. That was the humanist message at the root of a show in which WVB took a stand against racism. “It’s a problem everywhere, in Russia particularly,” he said.” References: waltervanbeirendonck.com, Style.com



Menswear Designer File