then the adrenaline kicked in, I swam for dear life. I saw the first wave coming and I couldn’t believe it. I thought I was gonna make it, dove under the wave, popped up, kept my head down and kept swimming, knowing there would be another one, and boy was I right. A massive 15ft set wave was already starting to break out the back and I had the slimest chance of making it. I swam as hard as I could with my 1Kg waterhousing and my little legs. I saw the lip coming on the end bowl and I dove under once more, and gave my arm a huge stretch to grab some seaweed and I couldn’t reach the bottom. It suddenly felt like I was about to make it, the feeling of raising t the surface out the back. Then, I felt this thump and heard the sound of crushing ice. I was immediately thrown and felt as if I just jumped off a giant ledge, then another pounding. I’ve been through wipeouts before but never with a waterhousing and fins. Holding my camera to my chest to protect it, as you are advised by the pro’s to do, was impossible as my whole body was being ragdolled. I eventually came up and took a breath of air to see the next wave break ahead, and white water heading towards me. I made it fine under that, apart from the feeling of my foot being caught on kelp. I started to panic and started shaking my leg, and finally made it free and up to the surface again. Got washed out to the channel and started to kick when I realised my fin was gone, which I later figured out was shaken off by myself in the panic of the attack of the seaweed. Everything worked out fine. I’m actually quite stoked to have experienced that, and also to get a cover from the shot of Jack Johns, really making the beatings worth while. You’ve shot big waves surfers like Nic Von Rupp that we interviewed a year ago. Which other surfers have you already photographed? I actually haven’t shot with many big name Pro surfers, apart from Nic. I’ve shot alot with the local rippers like Gearoid McDaid, and Barry Mottershead, and so many other great surfers here who love to adventure. Do you know them or they ask you to come with them? I know quite alot of the Irish and British surfers and have shot with them on a variety of swells. It’s always great to get a phone call from a surfer and they want you to shoot.I find it such an honor that they find my work good enough for them to ask. If my work can stoke someone out, it makes me happy. The business and the sport has changed over the last years. In your opinion what are the biggest changes that surf photography is confronted with currently? That’s a good question. There have been so many changes as you said, and every change has it’s upsides and it’s downsides. For instance digital/social media. I’ll go shoot waves at Mullaghmore one day, and by the time the surfer has finished the wave it’s already up on the National News. This is great for broadcasters, newspapers, journalists (with their iPhones) but pretty bad for photographers. I am not
worried about losing business or anything like that, but people see the images instantly, and an instant later they’ve forgotten about it and moved onto the next topic, which is a little sad. Saying this, the growth of social media has helped so many photographers and artists like myself to show their work to the world and let people enjoy it, instead of it collecting digital dust on an overpriced hard drive. I love you and hate you social media. In terms of self-marketing and social media, several of your photographs have been regrammed by the Red Bull Instagram account. Do you think that the influence of these kinds of brands helped you? With which brands are you in collaboration now? Working with brands is all a part of the business I’ve jolted myself into. Working with Brands and Magazines, such as O’Neill, Sea Stoke, Fstop Gear, Zeal Optics, Red Bull, or Billabong, are both a brilliant way to bring my work to light but also a great way to help bring a little adventure to alot of people. It’s amazing seeing how happy people get on social media just from seeing a cool photo of a wave or a hiking trail. I love spreading the stoke. If you’re not out shooting, what are you doing? At the moment? Typing out my Thesis for college. Generally? Surfing, sending emails or spending time with my girlfriend (in no particular order). What type of music or artist do you listen? Music my good friend. The band MEW have always been a great travel companion to me, always in m ear reminding me of old adventures. Nothing beats a little old school jazz either… Finally, what does the future hold for you and your work and where do you see yourself in five years from now? I’ve never been good at telling the future, as you can see 4 years ago I would have pictured myself as an engineer in 5 years time. But saying that, I see myself traveling and spreading my adventures and working with the best brands and magazines across the world, no question about it! Have you got any projects up your sleeve? Any last word? I have been doing nothing apart from planning project for the past 4 months, so yes is the answer, and no I can’t tell you yet. You will see. Thanks to my Mom for bringing me to the ocean, and all the people and companies who have helped me stay at the ocean.
Published on Jan 15, 2016
Le meilleur du fanzine CRUMB, 2010-2015 dans un book digital. Fil rouge de 5 années d'aventures en 300 pages et 70 interviews, riches en pho...