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Passion for Wine and Life

Cover Story

The Director and The Winemaker 導演與釀酒師

panel Tasting

This is Australia

這就是澳大利亞

2013 July

2013 July

HK$38

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Hip Holiday Wine Tours Fine Wine Tour in Bordeaux 15 – 21 September 2013

During the exceptional tour, you will: • Visit most prestigious World-Class Chateaux in the world renowned appellations including Pauillac, Graves, Pessac and Saint Emilion. • Reside in a luxury chateau in the wine region • Have an unique experience during their harvest period • Be guided by a wine specialist from Hong Kong

Piedmont Fine Wine and White Truffle Tour 3 – 8 November 2013

Tour Highlights: • Visit top wine producers of Barolo and Barbaresco including Gaja, Luciano Sandrone and more… visit the wineries with tasting and briefing about the properties of wines • Experience a truffle hunt with dogs followed by lunch with white truffles • Participate in the Alba National White Truffle Fair • Private guided tours to check out the beautiful towns in Piedmont region • Be guided by a wine specialist from Hong Kong For more details, please contact your Travel Experience Designer at 29730606 or enquiry@hipholiday.com.hk

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TABLE OF CONTENTS #031 July2013

Wine

Life

Cru Speech 012 Skin Contacts for Reds 紅酒浸皮

生活

Cru World of Wines 052 A Star for the Stars 名星之酒釀

Cru Voyage

014 Cru Corner

054 Deep in the Slate 板岩之深處

088 Dining Life

Cru Special 018 023

018

The New Cult Classics 經典狂熱 The Newborn Golden Sheep 金羊誕生

Cru Leader 064

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Rediscovering Piper-Heidsieck with Ned Goodwin MW 與Ned Goodwin MW 再度發 掘Piper-Heidsieck

082 Restaurant Week Returns for Summer 2013 香港餐廳週2013

Hotel Life 086 Wynn Macau 澳門 永利

Cru Investment

090 Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong 港島香格里拉大酒店

068 Touch of Gold 紙醉金迷

Art Life 092 Simplicity and Complexity 簡單與複雜

024

Cru Cover Story

024 The Director & The Winemaker 導演與釀酒師

Cru Panel Tasting 029 This is Australia 這就是澳大利亞

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Cru Spirit 071 Colour 色澤 072 Cru Review

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Letters from the Editors Time to explore again 重新出發 In the past 2 years, we have been traveling to different wine regions, including many old world wine regions that is less popular now. But the trips really changed our impressions about these regions. For example, Puglia in the south of Italy and La Mancha region in Spain, which used to produce bulk wine of low quality wine. Their traditional style of wine might not be catching our eyes at all. But with recent development and investment, many new wineries are establishing, and old wineries are renovating their facilities and technique. It is time to explore the wines from these regions again. I have some very nice Aglianico, an indigenous grape variety in Italy. These regions are really stepping forwards and it is time for us to re-explore them again. It is so different to the wines 5 years or 10 years ago. Coming back from Bordeaux, besides the LBBC and Vinexpo 2013, we tasted the 2012 en Primeur again. The Right Bank, especially Pomerols are really performing well, I like Gazin and Clinet in particular. For the Left Bank, the unstable weather was not very favorable, my choices would be Mouton, Pichon Lalande and Château Palmer, they shows their characters and elegance. Price is very reasonable, and is good for pleasant drinking. To invest in this vintage, much care has to be taken. 我們這兩年去了很多不同的產區,尤其是一些舊世界的冷門產區,酒莊之旅使我們對這些酒有很大改觀。例如意大利南部的Puglia,西班牙的La Mancha等一向 以量取勝,而且傳統的釀造風格未必人人受落,但近年的現代酒莊興起,而傳統酒莊也在不斷進步,是時候放下成見,重新發掘,我最喜愛前者的傳統葡萄品種

Aglianico,請留意我們接下來的報導。現在的產酒區如此進步神速,實在有必要重新檢視,不能 再停留在5年、10年前我們對他們的印象。 剛從波爾多回來,除了LBBC比賽及Vinexpo 2013之外,也再次品嚐了

2012年的en Primeur,現階段右岸的酒釀,尤其是Pomerol的酒款,我最 愛的是Gazin及Clinet。而左岸方面,在較不穩定及偏向清涼的天氣中,表 現最令我深刻的是Mouton、Pichon Lalande及Château Palmer,表現出 優雅的個性。價格方面整體當然不會太高,買來自用的話是不錯,但要用 來投資的話要考慮清楚⋯⋯

Eddie Chui Editorial Director eddie@cru-magazine.com

Editorial Director : Eddie Chui

Publisher : Cru Media Limited

Features Editor : Joe Lo

Address : 22&23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham

Assistant Editor : Ian Wong

Strand West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Tasting Editor : Francois Luck

Tel : (852) 3568 9100

Creative Director : Jenkin Ma

Fax : (852) 3568 9101

Designer : Louise Pak

E-mail : info@cru-magazine.com

Photographer : Alvin Luk

Website : www.cru-magazine.com

Advisor : Asif Bajwa, Dennis Yong

Facebook Fan Page : www.facebook.com/cru.magazine

Business Director : Nicholas Siu Associate Account Director : Queenie Ho Account Manager : Jon Osborne

Printer : KiLi Printing & Production Co. (852) 3595 0196

Sales & Marketing Manager : Rachel Tung

Distrbution Service : Blackstone Concepts (852) 3481 0518

Assistant Marketing Executive : Lexus Loo

All rights reserved 版權所有,翻印必究

Circulation Manager : Simon Ha

ISSN 2221016-4

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Prairie King 草原王

Joe Lo Feature Editor joe@cru-magazine.com

Mongolia’s grasslands are vast and boundless, like a might mighty force of nature. I recently went to Inner Mongolia in China, and I felt at utter peace in the quiet prairie against the lofty beauty of the national grasslands. The local Mongolians, with one hand on their knives and one hand on their lambs, greeted us with dried meat jerky and a bottle of 60% proof baijiu. With a throaty roar, they would invite us to drink, and drink I did, because if we didn’t give them face, perhaps our welcome would be quickly overstayed. So I drank the burning spirit, and as it tumbled down my throat I jumped right into the heart of Mongolia—riding a horse and catching sheep—these activities, like the baijiu, have their own unique flavour. 蒙古的草原是一片遼闊與蒼茫,卻又有如千軍萬馬的浩蕩。剛去了內蒙古,感受到草原的寧靜詳和,也感受到草原民族的豪情 萬丈。到了草原深處,一手拿刀,一手拿著一支風乾羊腿,手起刀落就把肉割下來送嘴裡吃,蒙古人看你吃得痛快,拿起一瓶 酒精度達60%的白酒就倒進你的杯子,還扯著喉嚨嚷著「來!倒滿!乾了吧!」你要是不給面子的只喝一小口他們還會嚷著要 你全乾掉,於是你也只能把這烈得不像酒的液體喝掉,來一下火燒食道的感覺,然後才騎著馬跟著蒙古人去趕羊…

Debate

Ian Wong Assistant Editor ian@cru-magazine.com

爭論 For centuries, those in the mountainous region of Priorat, Spain have debated: Garnatxa or Cariñena in the vineyard? North facing vineyard, or south facing vineyard? But with global warming, many now believe that there is simply only one option. As Dominik Huber, the outspoken winemaker of biodynamic winery Terrior al Limit says, “It isn’t interesting to make south facing wines anymore as it is too hot.” When comparing two of his wines Arbossar (north facing) and Dits del Terra (south facing) for instance, Arbossar is far more complex and fresh. And while those high up in the mountains still don’t have a problem due to the cool winds, this is sure to be a prominent issue in the future for those with vineyards in flatter or lower elevations. 多個世紀以來,西班牙Priorat山區都會有著這樣的爭論:Garnatxa還是Cariñena才應該種植?葡萄園要向北還是向南?因為 全球暖化問題,許多人都認為現今只有一個選擇,就如支持生物動力釀造法的酒莊Terrior al Limit的釀酒師Dominik所說:「 向南的葡萄園風光已經不再,因為這裡實在太熱了。」當比較起他釀造的兩款酒Arbossar(向北)及Dits del Terra(向南) 時,Arbossar遠遠比另一款為複雜和清新。而當這些海拔較高的山區仍然有著涼風吹拂,對溫度仍然沒甚麼問題的時候,這些問 題便由那些位於低地或者海拔較低的葡萄園來面對了。

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

Michel Bettane Michel Bettane began his wine journalism career over 30 years ago. He published The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 andl is one of the guest speakers at the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Fair. He’s also a panel member at the Tokyo International Wine Challenge, the London Decanter Wine Competition, the San Francisco Wine Fair, the South African Wine Trophy and the Canberra Australian National Wine Competition. 米歇爾.貝塔納從事其葡萄酒評論事業已有 30 年光景,亦曾於 1996 年出版了「法國葡 萄酒專業酒評指南」。他目前是香港國際葡 萄酒與烈酒博覽會的客席講師,更身兼日本 東京國際葡萄酒挑戰賽、英國倫敦國際葡萄 酒競賽、舊金山葡萄酒品嘗大會、南非葡萄 酒盃及的堪培拉澳大利亞國家葡萄酒大賽的 評委。

Christopher Ng An an author, a movie and comics writer, food and wine lover, and a member of the Greater China Wine Critics Association, Christopher is a big fan of the Premier League Chelsea. Recently published the fiction ‘Mecha of the Dead’ and movie script ‘Butterfly Lovers’. His articles can be found in ‘Zip’ and ‘Men’s Uno’, etc. 作家、電影及漫畫編劇,愛好美酒美食,大 中華酒評人協會會員,英超車路士擁護者。 最近期的文字作品有《機械屍人》,電影 劇本有《武俠梁祝》。酒評見於《 Zip 》及 《Men’s Uno》等等。

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Thierry Desseauve Thierry Desseauve became the Chief Editor of a leading French wine magazine in 1989 and co-wrote the renowned publication The Great Guide to The Best Wines of France in 1996 with Michel. Thierry has been an internationally acclaimed wine critic and writer for over 20 years. Around the world, winemakers acknowledge his natural talent for describing the potential, quality, style and consistency of a “terroir”. 蒂埃裡.德索沃於 1989年成為法國葡萄酒雜 誌的主編,並於 1996 年與米歇爾.貝塔納 (Michel Bettane)合著一本介紹法國餐酒和 釀酒廠的指南,內容非常豐富。這位經驗老 到的葡萄酒作家和品酒師, 20年來受到各界 推崇。來自世界各地,從老一輩至新一派的 釀酒師,都一致認定他對潛質、質素、風格 與風土特性的描述,極具天賦能力。

Ronald Ip One of the top stylists and fashion designers in Hong Kong, since the 80’s Ronald was the stylist and image consultant of many top artists and singers. He fell in love with fashion design since he was little, combining traditional Shanghai tailoring technique with modern fashion designs with his creativity, emphasizing traditional tailoring details and sophistication. 著名本地時裝設計師葉華添是香港的殿堂級 形 象 達 人 , 自 80 年 代 起 一 直 為 當 紅 藝 人 及 歌手擔任形象設計。自小對時裝設計感興 趣, Ronald 把傳統上海洋服精細的手工注入 現代時裝潮流元素,以創新的手法強調傳統手 藝對細節的精緻表達。

Han Tao Lau Han Tao was born in Hong Kong and graduated from the University of Adelaide’s winemaking program. He has been making wine in Australia since 2002, and also has winemaking experience in St Emilion (France) and the Pfalz (Germany). He was recently named as the Dux (top participant) of the Australian Wine Research Institute’s 2011 Advanced Wine Assessment Course. He has been based in the Yarra Valley for the past 7 years, where he is now the winemaker for Long Gully Estate, at the same time making his own low-intervention wines, called “Chuan”.

Ian Symonds Ian has twelve years of experience in wine education, holds the WSET Diploma, is a WSET Certified Educator; an Official Burgundy Wines Instructor; an International Bordeaux Wine Educator; a Court of Master Sommelier ‘Certified Sommelier’ (CS); a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS); an AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course graduate and has been a tutor on the WSET Certified Educator courses held in Hong Kong.  Ian is a jury member for the Hong Kong “Everyday Bordeaux” selection held by SOPEXA.

劉涵濤在香港出生,於澳洲University of Adelaide畢業的釀酒師,2011年獲得澳洲 葡萄酒研究所高級評酒課程的最佳表現獎。 自 2002 年起,曾於澳洲的南澳,維多利亞 省,法國波爾多St. Emilion和德國Pfalz不同酒 莊參與釀酒工作。過去七年在維多利亞省的 亞拉河谷工作,現為Long Gully Estate的釀酒 師,亦同時用自然,低干預式的釀酒方法製 造自己的葡萄酒,「傳」。

Ian 擁有 20 年教授葡萄酒經驗,考獲 WSET

Synchro Synchro is the synchronized alternative pen-name of a well-known local published writer. The use of this name is, not unlike Les Forts is to Latour and Carruades to Lafite, to cultivate younger vines for a fresher approach to produce an output specifically of subjective reviews of hotels, cruise ships, food, and wine, in different new-found terriors. Thus Synchro is unemployed of his own choice, and travels the world with all his disposable time, and his travel stories are to be read here.

高等證書後成為認可葡萄酒導師,亦是認 可勃艮地葡萄酒導師、國際波爾多葡萄酒導 師、Court of Master Sommelier Certified Sommelier CS、Certified Specialist of Spirits CSS、Certified Specialist of Wine CSW、AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment Course,亦是香港 WSET認可導師。更是香 港法國食品協會「每天波爾多 2010」的評審 團成員。

Dorothy Ma A girl born in the 80’s who has worked in some record companies and advertisment companies, Dorothy is a full time marketing executive and part time blogger. She believes there are no ugly women in the world, only lazy ones. 80 後女生,曾在唱片公司及廣告公司工作, 正職市場推廣,副業寫博客。深信沒有醜的 女人,只有懶惰的,所以最愛試不同的美容產 品,讓自己變得更有自信、漂亮。

單高是香港某著作等身作家的同步筆名,用此 筆名一如Les Forts之於拉圖及Carruades之於 Lafite,企圖用較嫩的葡萄樹在新發掘的不同 的土壤上,生產出另一系列專講嘗試世界著名 酒店、郵輪、美食,及美酒的個人感受以饗讀 者。單高自選以無業遊民為業,可用的時間悉 數用於全球性的旅遊之上。

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T a s t i n g

Rebecca Leung Rebecca is an independent wine educator and wine journalist who writes her own wine blog “Wine is Beautiful” and has regular columns in Hong Kong Economic Journal, Cup, WineNow, Headline Daily, Sing Tao Daily and The Corporate Grocer & Caterer. Also a columnist for Review Asia Magazine, Taster. com and MadeinHK.com. She hosts an online wine programme for HK Economic Journal.com, and a radio wine show for San Francisco’s  Singtao  Chinese Radio. Rebecca travels frequently to wine countries, and has been a wine judge in various international wine competitions. 梁 淑 意 持 有 WSET Diploma 葡 萄 酒及烈酒文憑, 現為WSET國際 認可導師,擁有自己的品酒網誌 《Wine is Beautiful醉美麗》,並在 多家報章雜誌包括:《茶杯雜誌》、 ���信報》、《酒經月刊》、《頭條 日報》、《星島日報》及《譽源雜 誌》等撰寫專欄,亦是網上品酒節目 《信報視聽頻道-美酒主義》及三藩 市灣區星島中文電台《品酒室》節目 主持人。

Houghton Lee Having trained for a year, Houghton was  awarded  the  Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) from the Society of Wine Educators in 2009 and is the Vice President now. He is one of the local wine columnists and is the author of the Vineyards of Greater China (Published by Wan Li Book Co., Ltd). Houghton由2008年起開始接觸葡萄 酒,2009年已考獲Society of Wine Educators 資格,並成為香港首批 CSW,並為該會的副會長。他的文 章散見於本地葡萄酒媒體,並著有 探訪中國葡萄酒莊》一書(萬里機構 出版)。

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Jean-Charles Viens “For me, wine is all about pleasure, and each time I open a bottle, it is with the same trepidation and excitement as if I was about to set on a new adventure in far away places,” Jean-Charles Viens recalls. He completed the WSET Diploma (Merit), is now the Tutor at Berry Bros & Rudd “The Fine Wine Center,” and is studying to become a Master of Wine. 「對我來說,每次開酒都是一件愉 快的事情,因為這就好像要經歷一 段新的旅程,充滿期盼。」 JeanCharles Viens 。他完成 WSET 文 憑後,現為 Berry Bros. & Rudd 的 葡 萄 酒 導 師 , 也 在 www. GrandePassione.com 發表文章。 他現為成為 Master of Wine 而繼續 進修。

Micky Chan Mr. Micky Chan is wine educator, consultant and international wine judge. He is one of the founder of Hong Kong Wine Academy, holds the WSET® Diploma in Wines and Spirits, Associate Member of Institute of Wine & Spirit and Certified WSET Educator. Micky身兼葡萄酒導師、酒業顧問及 國際評判,並擁有多年的教學經驗。 同時亦是香港葡萄酒教學中心創辦人 之一,持有英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育基 金會文憑、英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會會 員及英國葡萄酒及烈酒教育課程認証 導師資格,對教導英國葡萄酒及烈酒 教育甚有心得。

Nigel Chan Nigel had been studying in Paris where he entered into the wine world. He has been working with different wine merchants, including Altaya, CitySuper and Watson’s Wine Cellar. He contributed articles regularly in the Capital magazine and is the guest tutor of the wine club of the Hong Kong Baptist University, formerly Wine Head of Hotel Icon. Nigel said he is not a heavy drinker but he likes to get slightly drunk. He likes ChambolleMusigny  from  Burgundy  and classic Barolo from Italy. Nigel曾留學於巴黎,亦因此與葡萄 酒結下不解之緣,他先後任職於不 同酒商,包括 Altaya 、 City’Super 和 Watson’s Wine Cellar ,並當上 《 Capital 》雜誌業餘專欄作家和香 港浸會大學葡萄酒學會客席助教,曾 任 Hotel Icon 葡萄酒總監。Nigel自 我形容為酒量不佳但喜歡適度酗酒, 特別鍾愛法國勃艮第的ChambolleMusigny和意大利的舊派Barolo。

P a n e l

Mabel Lai Mabel is the first Certified Wine Educator from the Society of Wine Educators in China. Also a holder of the Diploma in Wines and Spirits by WSET, Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit and WSET Certified Educator. Other qualification includes CSW, CSS and Wine Fundamentals Certificate Level 2 by ISG. She has been teaching WSET courses since 2008, and presents wine show or columnist in various medias. As one of the founders of Hong Kong Wine Academy, she is also a judge member of Hong Kong Wine Judges Association. Mabel 是大中華區首位美國葡萄酒 教育協會認可的葡萄酒導師,亦持 有英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會的院士和 WSET文憑、美國CSW、CSS和二 級國際侍酒師等專業資格。 Mabel 自 2008 年起任教各級 WSET 課程, 也擔任葡萄酒節目或專訪嘉賓如 New Monday ,鳳凰衛視,瑪麗嘉 兒,味道及新假期等。除了香港葡 萄酒教育中心創辦人之一,Mabel亦 是香港葡萄酒評審協會之評審會員。

Hood Hon Hood holds a Diploma in the WSET and is an Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirit. As a Certified Specialist of Wine and Certified Specialist  of  Spirits  from  the Society of Wine Educators, Hoon has been tasting and teaching in Hong Kong for the last 20 years. He is also almost the first Japanese Sake Sommeliers in Hong Kong. 現為WSET導師的Hood擁有葡萄酒 及烈酒基金會( WSET )的文憑資 格,亦為英國葡萄酒及烈酒學會院 士,並擁有美國葡萄酒教育協會的葡 萄酒及烈酒專家資格、世界侍酒大師 協會認證品酒師和二級國際侍酒師資 格。Hood在香港教授葡萄酒已經有 20 年經驗,亦是香港首批日本清酒 品酒師。

Jennifer Luk Jennifer is a wine educator and event organizer, hosting Hong Kong’s only ‘Wine Tasting in the Dark’ .She teaches at HKU SPACE, School of Continuing and Professional Studies (The CUHK) and HKMA.  She has attained Sommelier  certification  from Court of Master Sommelier and Advanced Certificate from WSETT. Awarded the Wine Australia Travel Scholarship in 2010, as the only representative from China to attend the masterclass in Australia. 

Tersina Shieh Tersina graduated with distinction in Plumpton College UK with its Winemaking Certificate Course, and the year after she also managed to acquire the WSET Level 5 certificate. Ever since 2003 she has worked in many wineries including Bookers in the UK, Adega do Cantor in Portugal, Ashanti and Thelema in South Africa to name a few She now acts as the General Manager to Independent Wine Centre.

Jordan Choy Certificated  Bordeaux  Lecturer (L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux), Lecturer of Hong Kong Wine Institute, Editor of “Oriental Daily”, and “The Sun” newspaper, Jordan has written thousands of food and wine reviews. As the assessor for major wine events, including “Everyday  Bordeaux  2010” organized by the The Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB) and Sopexa. He also contributed to Ming Pao, “Wine Magazine” as a wine columnist.

Jennifer是一位葡萄酒導師,同為一

Tersina曾於英國Plumpton College

為活動策劃人。由她主持的「暗中品 酒」更是香港唯一於完全黑暗的環境 品試葡萄酒。現任教於香港大學專業 進修學院、香港中文大學專業進修學 院、香港管理專業協會。持有侍酒師 大師協會初級品酒師證書和WSET高 級證書。 2010 年更榮獲「澳洲葡萄 酒之旅獎學金」,成為中國/香港的 代表,遠赴澳洲深造葡萄酒學。

的葡萄酒釀製高級文憑課程以優異 成績畢業,翌年更考獲 WSET 第五 級 榮 譽 文 憑 。 自 2003 年 起 一 直 在 世界各地的許多酒莊工作,由英國 Bookers和葡萄牙Adega do Cantor 的小型精品酒莊、以至南非 Ashanti 及 Thelema 的大型酒莊都有她的足 跡。現為Independent Wine Centre 的總經理。

法國波爾多葡萄酒認證導師(L’ecole du vin de Bordeaux),香港葡萄酒 學會導師,曾任東方日報及太陽報飲 食版編輯,撰寫飲食評論不計其數。 為各大葡萄酒活動擔任評審,包括波 爾多葡萄酒業管理局及Sopexa主辦 之「每天波爾多 2010 」。曾為《明 報》、《Wine葡萄酒》的專欄作者。

2/7/13 11:44 AM


T a s t i n g

Zachary Yu Zac has been very interested in the Food and Beverage industry since his youth. His career goal is to merge great wine, delicious dishes, and enjoyment in F&B. With training in different aspects of the catering industry, Zac is experenced and knowledgable in Hong Kong’s unique food culture. After years of work, he became a passionate F&B guy, immersing himself in the food and wine world with great pleasure. Now he is the sommelier of Langham Place and calls himself “Wine Guy.” For him, this is the perfect job because he enjoys every moment of his work. Zac自小對餐飲業有著濃厚的興趣, 立志在糅合了醇酒、美食和「疲 勞」的餐飲業中發展,並接受不同 崗位的訓練,親身體驗和學習餐飲 業的獨有秩序和文化,對餐飲業漸 漸由興趣變為熱愛,把飲食世界完 全融入於自己的生活當中。Zac現於 朗豪酒店任職品酒師,既能發揮其 個人所長,亦可寓工作於娛樂。

P a n e l

Jordi Chan With more than 10 years in the F&B industry, he’s currently working as Education & Training Manager in ASC Fine Wines Company and was the Head Sommelier in The Mira Hong Kong, Sommelier of Gaddi’s in The Peninsula Hong Kong and Verandah of The Repulse Bay before. Jordi has won awards including the Grand Prize of Hong Kong Best Sommelier Competition in 2010. He also serves as a private instructor for wine seminars and wine courses. 超過10年飲食業界的工作經 驗 , J o rd i 現 為 A S C   F i n e   W i n e 藏酒軒的教育及培訓經理。他 曾 於 The Mira Hong Kong 擔 任 Head Sommelier,亦曾是半島酒店 Gaddi’s和淺水灣影灣園Verandah的 品酒師。 Jordi 亦曾獲得多項葡萄酒 相關的獎項,包括 2010年度的品酒 師大賽獲得大獎及 2009年度的最佳 表現獎、及2010年度的Penfolds香 港品酒師大賽奪得亞軍,亦有參與專 棡欄寫作及葡萄酒教育工作等。

Tit Ng Tit Ng is a member of the Hong Kong  Sommelier  Association and the Hong Kong and China Bartender  Association.  He  is also a member of the jury panel of Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine, Wine Spectator Best E x c e l l e n t   W i n e   L i s t   Aw a rd s 2008  and  2009,  also  the California  Grapes  International Inc.,  and  the  Firstgrowthasia. com. He became the sommelier of the Intercontinental Hong Kong Hotel in 2007 He won the 1995 Beefeater Cocktail Competition and was awarded the Penfolds Australian Wine Scholarship. Tit 是香港品酒師協會及香港中國調 酒師協會的會員,亦是Asia Hotel & Catering Times Magazine、Wine Spectator Best Excellent Wine List Awards 2008 & 2009、California Grapes  International  Inc.及 Firstgrowthasia.com評酒小組成員 之一,自 2007 起於香港洲際酒店任 職品酒師。曾於1995年度Beefeater 雞尾酒大賽中贏得冠軍,更於 2006

Alan Liu Alan is the sommelier and bar manager of the American Club. He has also worked at the HK Yacht Club and at the French Window restaurant as a sommelier. A master at foodpairing, he won the HK Best Sommelier Competition in 2007 and was the 1st runnerup of Penfolds Best Sommelier Competition. He was also the youngest sommelier to become the Best Sommelier of the Year 2008. In 2010, he was the 2nd runner-up of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition. Alan曾經擔任香港遊艇會的品酒師兼

Wallace Lo One of the youngest sommeliers in Hong Kong, Wallace obtained the Level 3 certificate from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust when he was just 21. Interested in developing his palate from any early age, Wallace first worked as a barista, after studying International Hospitality Management as well as Hotels and Catering. Within a few years, he was named Assistant Sommelier at “The French Window”. As Hotel ICON’s sommelier, Wallace has a platform to educate diners on the diversity of wine. “I want to challenge the local mindset that only expensive wines are good.”

助理餐飲經理,以及中環國際金融中 心The French Window的品酒師, 現為美國會的酒吧經理及品酒師,對 葡萄酒與美食的搭配有特別深入的研 究。Alan在2007年同時奪得香港最 佳品酒師大賽和奔富香港最佳品酒師 大賽亞軍,並於 2008年榮獲香港最 佳品酒師殊榮,是歷屆獲此獎項的最 年輕品酒師,前途無限。 2010年奪 得大中華品酒師大賽季軍。

香港最年輕侍酒師之一,Wallace於 21歲時已完成了WSET課程的Level 3 。早年已對發掘不同味道有著濃厚 興趣的Wallace攻讀酒店及餐飲業後 就香港著名高級餐廳任職。幾年間已 被The French Window聘請為侍酒師 助理。現於HOTEL ICON任職侍酒師 的Wallace曾說道:「作為一名侍酒 師,我希望改變本地人認為貴酒就是 好的心理。」

Mathieu Pouchan With parents hailing from prominent wine regions in France – his mother from Rhone Valley and father from Bordeaux–Mathieu has worked in the legendary La Tour D’Argent, regarded as a culinary landmark in Paris. Working under the tutelage of Mr Ridgway, Mathieu honed his craft. He later moved to La Tour d’Argent’s in Japan, where his love of Asia began. Today, he is Chief Sommelier for etc wine shops.

Katrina Lau Katrina joined the food and catering industry in 2006 and is now assisting bartending job in Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. She fell in love with wines and has started to indulge herself in wine tasting since 2011. In the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2011, Katrina did not only become one of the top five winners in Hong Kong, but became the 2nd runner-up in the competition. She is regarded as one of the budding young sommeliers.

年獲得奔富澳洲葡萄酒獎學金。

Benny Chung B e n n y   C h u n g   i s   t h e   P ro j e c t Manager-Sommelier at Shangri-La Group, he worked in Hong Kong Golf Club, Ritz Carlton, Island Shangri-La, and Sevva for over 9 years. He was awarded as a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) by the Society of Wine Educators. He also holds an Advanced WSET qualification and a Certified Court of Master Sommelier. He is the only Sommelier in Hong Kong to hold these three prestigious qualifications simultaneously.

Gon Leung Gon studied Hotel Management in Switzerland and previously worked at the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong and the Royal Garden Hotel. He is now working in H One as a sommelier who specializes in food and wine matching with his unique perception. He worked in the RitzCarlton Hotel seven years ago and began his wine journey since then. During his study and work, he learnt about wine and was able to taste a great variety of wines.

Kevin Yu Kevin spent 17 years in the field of F&B. including InterContinental Hotel Hong Kong, Aspasia and the Drawing Room, where he gained invaluable experience and wine knowlege. Kevin was also trained as a sommelier gained in depth knowledge of wine from different countries and different regions. He is now the Restaurant Manager and Sommelier of the Drawing Room and expert in Italian wine, familiar with all the classic matches of Italian food and wine.

Gon曾留學於瑞士,修讀酒店管理課 Benny任職香格里拉酒店集團飲食部 項目經理,熱愛葡萄酒。過去九年也 曾於香港高爾夫球會、麗嘉酒店、 香格里拉酒店及 Sevva 餐廳工作。 已取得Certified Specialist of Wine 資格,同時擁有 WSET 高級文憑及 Court of Master Sommelier認證。 他是香港唯一擁有這三項證書的品 酒師。

Contributors.indd 3

程,回港後先後於麗嘉酒店及帝苑酒 店工作,現為餐廳H One的品酒師, 憑著多年的經驗和熱誠對美酒佳餚的 搭配特別有心得。Gon於大約七年前 於麗嘉酒店工作的時候愛上葡萄酒, 也在學習上、工作上不斷加深認識 及接觸葡萄酒,越來越被這種神之水 滴所吸引。

Kevin 曾於香港的高級餐廳工作達 17年之久,當中包括香港洲際酒 店、Aspasia及The Drawing Room 等。期間,Kevin除了在工作中不斷 汲取經驗外,更修畢多個葡萄酒課 程,成為一位出色的品酒師,對世界 各國各地區的葡萄酒都有深入的了 解。他現為The Drawing Room的餐 廳經理及品酒師,對意大利葡萄酒尤 其熟悉,當然對意大利菜跟葡萄酒的 配搭非常認識。

天生與葡萄酒結下不解之緣,母親 來自隆河谷、父親的家族則來自波 爾多,曾於巴黎的餐飲地標La Tour D’Argent 餐廳工作,亦讓 Mathieu 在 Ridgway 的指導下磨練出非凡的 品酒技藝。後來Mathieu遠赴日本的 La Tour D’Argent工作,自此愛上亞 洲,現為etc wine shops 斟‧酎擔任 首席侍酒師���

Katrina於2006年加入飲食業,現正 於香港日航酒店工作,主要協助侍酒 工作。由 2011年才開始學習品酒的 她,已立志參加 2011年大中華最佳 品酒師比賽,不但成功進入香港區五 強,最後更一鳴驚人奪得季軍,被譽 為前途無限的新晉品酒師之一。

2/7/13 11:44 AM


T a s t i n g

Sam Chong Sam is a Hong Kong Sommelier Association certified sommelier and works at Hotel Nikko Hong Kong. He was the Hong Kong Best Sommelier 2nd runner-up in 2009 and the champion of the Best Sommelier Greater China Competition 2010. 香港專業品酒師協會認可品酒師,現 職於香港日航酒店的品酒師,曾榮獲 2009年度香港專業品酒師大賽季軍 及2010年度大中華區最佳品酒師大 賽冠軍,被譽為本地最具潛質的年輕 品酒師之一。

Annabel已在酒界超過20年時間,由 公關到宴會搞手,到作家與記者、導 師,她的學生包括澳門 IFT 酒店管理 學士課程、 CEDARS的 HKU、以及 私人公司培訓的學員。

Ming Ng Ming has worked in the Food and Beverage career for over 10 years, he is a recognized sommelier and previously worked in Gaddi’s at The Peninsula Hong Kong, Grand Cru (Cova Group), Le Parisien, and Harvey Nichols. He is currently working at Bo Innovation.

Stephano Bassanese Stephano has worked as a manager in some of the finest Italian restaurants in Hong Kong like Cinecitta and Angelini. He is now General Manager of Domani Ristorante. Originally from Friuli, he grew up in hospitality with his family business.

從事飲食業十多年,Ming曾於 半 島 酒 店 G a d d i ’s 餐 廳 工 作 , 曾 為 G r a n d   C r u ( C o v a   G ro u p ) 、Le Parisien和Harvey Nichols的品 酒師。現任Bo Innovation品酒師。

來自意大利 Friuli ,長大於餐飲世家 的Staphano曾於多間香港頂級意大 利餐廳如Cinecitta和Angelini等任職 餐廳經理,現為Domani Ristorante 總經理。

Ringo Lam Ringo studied in Australia and worked in F&B field for many years already. Has been worded at Whisk in the Mira and Tuscany by H & Megu before she joined the Upper House Hotel as Sommelier, and as the Sommelier of Shangri-la Hotel Kowloon.

Alan Wong Alan Wong is an experienced senior journalist dedicated to finding great food and wines. He is taking the WSET Level 4 at the moment, and is a leading member of the Hong Kong Wine Merchants Association.

Andy Au Andy is Assistant Sommelier at the 2-Michelin star restaurant SPOON by Alain Ducasse. In 2012, he was awarded Champion at the Greater China Sommelier Competition.

資深新聞工作者,葡萄酒愛好者, 正修讀WSET Level 4課程。現為葡 萄酒商會餐飲文化發展委員會主席。

剛贏得了大中華品酒師大賽的冠軍。

Vincent Yuen Vincent is the Assistant Beverage Manager for The Langham Place Hotel. A veteran of Hong Kong’s F&B industry, he is a tireless promoter of wines and always shows great passion in sharing both new wine discoveries and old favourites.

Vincent Kwong Vincent has been working in the F&B buisines in Hong Kong for years, serving most recently in a variety of high-end Cantonese restaurants like Paradise Pavillon, and he is now Manager and Sommelier of Amo Eno in IFC.

Ocean Hui Ocean has worked in some of the most prestigious and interesting wine importers and restaurants in Hong Kong including agnes b. le Pain Grille, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Eminent Wines, and now Amo Eno as their Operations Manager.

Vincent在香港餐飲界工作多年,曾 於城中某些高級中菜食府如Paradise Pavillon工作,現為Amo Eno的經理 兼品酒師。

Ocean 曾 於 城 中 多 間 葡 萄 酒 進 口 商及餐廳工作,包括 agnes b. le Pain Grille,Berry Bros. & Rudd和 Eminent Wines,現為Amo Eno的 Operation Manager。

Vincent是香港朗豪酒店的Assistant Beverage Manager。於香港飲食業 界多年,Vincent對新酒舊酒都一樣 充滿熱情。

Contributors.indd 4

Annabel Jackson Annabel has been involved in the wine industry for more than 20 years, working as a PR and event organiser, writer and journalist, and as an educator. She teaches Wine Studies to hospitality management undergrads at IFT in Macau, at HKU for CEDARS, and also does corporate training on request.

Andy 是Alain Ducasse旗下米芝蓮二 星餐廳SPOON的助理品酒師。他剛

P a n e l

曾於澳洲留學,Ringo擁有多年 餐 飲 業 界 經 驗 。 曾 於 The  Mira 的 Whisk及Tuscany by H & Megu及 Upper House酒店任職品酒師,現 為九龍香格里拉大酒店之品酒師。

Noble Law Noble is a certified Sommelier of the Court of Sommelier; Certified Specialist of Wine of the Society of Wine Educator and holder of the Advance Certificated from the WSET. Noble是Court of Sommelier 的認證

Taka Tam Taka has worked in Food and Beverage career for over 7 years. He was a sommelier in the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Megu Japanese Restaurant, Intercontinental Hong Kong, The Mira Hong Kong and Miyabi. He is currently the sommelier in the Il Miliones. Taka已從事飲食業超過7年,曾是置 地文華東方酒店、Megu、Miyabi、 洲際酒店和The Mira的品酒師,現為 意大利餐廳Il Milione的品酒師。

Jeffrey Leung Jeffrey is a recognized member and sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Having worked in the F&B industry for many years, Jeffrey now is a sommelier of Bordeaux etc wine cellar.

品酒師;葡萄酒教育者協會的專業認 證葡萄酒專家,亦持有WSET的進階 葡萄酒證書。

Jeffrey是香港專業品酒師協會認可會 員及品酒師,從事多年飲食界相關行 業,經驗豐富,現職於大型著名酒窖 斟酌當品酒師。抱著遠大的抱負與信 念推廣葡萄酒,希望越來越多人欣賞 葡萄酒文化。

Andy She Andy is now the Sommelier of Renaissance Harbour View Hong Kong Hotel. He had also worked at Cuisine Cuisine and The French Window, Langham Hotel as Sommelier. In 2013, He was qualified Senior Sommelier level and being the committee of HKSA.

Don Kwok Holder of Advanced Certificate of WSET and Certificate of Advanced French Wine from Sopexa, Don has worked in Domani, RitzCarlton Hotel Hong Kong and Sheraton Hong Kong Hotels, currently the sommelier of Cépage.

Andy是香港萬麗海景酒店的品酒師, 曾任職國金軒、The French Window及 尖沙咀朗廷酒店的品酒師。2013年考 獲香港專業品酒師協會認可的資深品 酒師會員資格及擔任協會委員。

擁有WSET進階證書和Sopexa Advanced法國葡萄酒證書,Don曾 於Domani,香港麗思卡頓酒店和香 港喜來登酒店工作,現於一星米芝蓮 餐廳Cépage任職侍酒師。

2/7/13 11:44 AM


T a s t i n g

Kurt Wong Kurt is now working as the Head Sommelier of Fook Lam Moon. In the past 8 years, he has been working in different five-starred  hotels  including InterContinental Hong Kong, RitzCarlton Hong Kong and The Marco Polo HK Hotel. He has acquired professional qualitification for years including WSET, and is a member of the HK Sommelier Association. Kurt現為福臨門集團的Head Sommelier。在過去八年,曾於不同 的五星級酒店工作,包括:香港洲 際酒店、香港麗嘉酒店及馬哥孛羅 香港酒店等。他也取得WSET葡萄酒 專業資格,也是香港專業品酒師協 會會員。

P a n e l

Danny Ng Danny is a recognized member of Hong Kong Sommelier Association. He is now the Assistant Chief Sommelier/ Assistant Bar Manager of American Club. He had worked at St. Betty as Sommelier. Also, he had worked in “Church St. Enotica” Italian one Hat Restaurant in Melbourne Australia for a year, where he entered into the world of wines and fell in love with Australian wines. He is studying the WSET Diploma Level 4.

Joey Tsang Joey developed her interest in wine since studying her bachelor degree in catering management. After graduation, she undertook an internship at the Renaissance hotel in the US. She has been working at the Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, Langham Place Mongkok and the China Club. As a senior member of the HKSA, she also has an certificated Specialist of Wine, Joey is now the Wine Cellar Manager & Sommelier of Hip Cellar Limited.

作為香港品酒師協會認可會 員 , Danny 持 有 香 港 葡 萄 酒 教 育 中心第三級,現於美國會任職助 理品酒師,亦曾於 Betty’s Kitchen 任職品酒師。曾於澳洲墨爾本 「 Church St. Enotica」意大利餐廳 工作一年,亦是他認識葡萄酒和鍾 情於澳洲葡萄酒的地方。 Danny 現 正修讀WSET文憑第四級。

Joey對葡萄酒的興趣來自修讀的餐 飲管理學士學位課程,畢業後於美 國 Renaissance Hotel實習,曾在香 港君悅酒店、旺角朗豪酒店及中國 會工作,考獲 CSW證書的 Joey亦為 香港專業品酒師協會高級品酒師之 一。現於Hip Cellar Limited擔任酒 窖經理及侍酒師

Vincent Chue Vincent  Chue  received  fomal wine training and acquired the Advanced WSET certification for a long ltime. He is also a skillful bartender and got good results in some international competition. Now he is the F&B Manager of the Spanish restaurant Fofo by el Willy and is familiar with arities of Spanish food and wine. Vincent很早便已經接受正式的葡萄 酒訓練,並取得WSET的進階證書, 同時亦為調酒高手的 Vincent亦曾獲 得多個國際調酒大賽獎項。現為西班 牙餐廳Fofo by el Willy餐飲經理,對 西班牙酒釀及菜式尤其熟悉。

Casy Chau Recognized as Senior Sommelier of the Hong Kong Sommelier Association. Casy has worked as Group Sommelier of Regal Hotels International, Sommelier of Indochine Lan Kwai Fong Entertainments,  Assistant Sommelier of the Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club, Vintage Cellar Hand of Leasingham Wines and Houghton Wines, also the author of the wine and travelling lifestyle book “Wine Me”. Casy是香港專業品酒師協會認可高 級品酒師,曾擔任富豪國際酒店集團 及蘭桂坊餐娛概念集團品酒師、香 港遊艇會助理品酒師及Leasingham Wines 和 Houghton Wines 酒窖員 工,著有葡萄酒、旅遊及品味生活書 籍《Wine Me》。

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For more information: info@dh-hospitality.co.uk Contributors.indd 5

For more information: info@dh-hos 3/7/13 7:33 PM


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012

Cru Speech

Skin Contact for

Reds 紅酒浸皮

English Text : Han Tao Lau Translation : Joe Lo

In last month’s article, I explained the role that skin contact can have

上月的文章中,我解釋了釀製白葡萄酒的浸皮程序,其實在紅酒的釀製程序

in white wine making. Skin contact is probably even more important in

之中浸皮就更加重要,而且更是紅色色素與單寧分離的重要一環。

the production of red wines, in that it is crucial for the extraction of red pigments and tannins.

在一些比較輕盈、像粉紅酒風格的酒款,其釀酒的程序中浸皮的時間就要比 紅餐酒更加短。葡萄都會被輕柔地壓榨來釋放汁液,而葡萄皮則只會留在葡

In the production of lighter, rose-style wines, skin contact takes place

萄汁中浸泡幾個小時,帶來的顏色和單寧都會稍為輕柔。

for a much shorter period than in red table wines. The grapes are gently crushed to release the juice, and the skins are left to soak in this juice

而說到釀製紅葡萄酒,這條公式就會變得更複雜了一點,而且有很多其他因

for just a few hours, thus giving a wine lighter in colour and with minimal

素需要考慮。第一,最重要的決定性因素一定是酒的風格,有些酒需要較輕

tannin extracted.

盈的單寧、更圓潤、也更容易入口。所以很自然地,浸皮的時間更短,例如 只進行幾天,就已經可以避免過度的果皮接觸了。

With the production of red wines, the equation can get much more complex and many factors need to be considered. Firstly, the most

對於一些單寧更豐富的酒來說—例如,一些酒體更豐厚的如 Caber net

important determining factor has to be the desired wine style. Some

或 Nebbiolo 為主的紅酒,就需要更加長期間的浸皮— 稱為「 Extended

wines need to be less tannic, rounder, and more approachable. Naturally,

Maceration」(延長浸皮時間)—或者將葡萄汁液浸在果皮中的時間推遲

the period of skin contact can be shorter, ie for just a few days, in order

到發酵期以後才結束,這個程序可以進行約三至四週、甚至在某些情況下維

to prevent excessive tannin extraction.

持幾個月。單寧在這個步驟之中的轉代是相當有趣的,就算這個時候釋放的 單寧有多高,它們都會經過一個特別的轉化程序,令單寧的口感不會帶有過

For wines where a richer tannin structure is desired – for example, more

多的尖銳度和太過緊實,相反變得更加圓潤和容易入口。

full-bodied red wines such as some Cabernet-based wines or Nebbiolo, then a longer period of skin contact – known as extended maceration

進行「 Cap Management 」時(就是控制發酵中的葡萄汁如何混入果皮之

– may be more desirable, where a wine stays with its skins long after

中),也是另一個非常重要的考慮。有些Cap Management的方法就更加提

fermentation has finished. This can represent 3-4 weeks, and in some

高其萃取度,讓顏色和單寧都釋放得更快。在這些情況下,一般較短的浸皮

cases, a few months. The way in which the tannins transform during this

時間就會能夠更有效地防止過度的萃取,而造成過份重單寧的酒。

time can be very interesting, where even though more tannin is extracted, the tannins undergo a transformation, allowing the tannins to taste less

的確許多紅酒都不需要太長的浸皮時間,例如有些釀酒師會選擇讓他們的紅

angular and astringent, but rounder and more approachable with time.

酒先在木桶中完成發酵,讓所有糖份都被酵母消化。在這個情況下,在發 酵完成之前,這些果皮都會被壓榨,釋放出最後的發酵酒液。在發酵完成之

The method of cap management – ie the way in which the fermenting

後,這些酒就會被轉移到木桶之中。此舉將會令木桶的味道更加融入酒液之

juice is mixed with the cap of skins – is another important consideration.

中,而且有時候更會為酒釀增添許多額外的煙燻、煙肉等風味。

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013

Some cap management methods are more extractive, allowing colour

and more intensely, fruity aromas are formed. Because this very gentle

and tannin to be extracted more quickly. In such cases, a shorter skin

technique places more emphasis on the formation of aromatics, it in turn

contact period may be more desirable to prevent over-extraction, and an

requires a longer period of maceration in order to get adequate tannin

overly tannic wine.

and colour extraction.

Indeed, a shorter skin contact period may be necessary with some red

Clearly, in order to get a red wine that is balanced for its style, a number

wines. For example, some winemakers choose to have their red wines

of winemaking decisions also need to be balanced and weighed up. It is

finish fermentation in barrel, i.e. before all the sugar is consumed by yeast.

a constant process of learning and fine-tuning, factoring decisions such

In order to do this, before the end of fermentation, the skins are pressed

as cap management method, frequency, fermentation temperature and

to extract the last bit of fermenting wine. This wine is then transferred to

time on skins, along with what the growing season has provided. It is

barrel, where the fermentation is completed. This tends to allow the oak

therefore also incredibly fun and rewarding.

flavours to become more integrated into the wine, and can sometimes contribute an interesting, smoky, bacon fat influence to the wine.

同樣地,在強化酒的釀製中,例如砵酒,浸皮時間就更需要短了,因為就 著酒液的甜度,發酵的時間便要更加拿揑得非常準確,以防所有糖份都被

Similarly, in the production of fortified wines such as Port wine, a shorter

酵母轉化掉。然後在強化酒的程序上,浸皮便會幫助殺死所有酵母,加

skin contact period is needed, because in order for the wine to be sweet,

上完結整個發酵程序。因為發酵的時間更短,浸皮的時間也就更短,於是

the fermentation process has to be terminated before all the sugar is

Cap Management就變得更加決定性, 令單寧與顏色在短時間的浸皮中有

consumed by the yeast. This is done by the addition of fortification spirit,

較地釋放。

which kills the yeast and ends the fermentation process. Because of this shortened fermentation, the period of skin contact is shorter, which in

相反地,有些酒卻需要更長的浸皮時間,而需要更少的Cap Management。

turn makes it necessary for the cap management method to be more

許多 Pinot  Noir 都會選擇不作任何壓榨,而有時候更不作任何泵或倒的動

extractive in order to maximize tannin and colour extraction during this

作。這亦讓更多原粒果實甚至原串葡萄能夠留下,讓另一個程序「carbonic

short period on skins.

maceration」能夠進行。這些葡萄果實在enzymatic過程中分離,造成更集 中、更富果味的香氣。由於這相當溫和的技術會令果香的形成更突出,所以

Conversely, there are some wines that require a longer skin contact

同時亦需要一段更長的浸皮時間,令單寧和顏色更顯著。

time, but less extractive cap management methods. Many Pinot Noir makers choose not to do any crushing, and sometimes, no plunging or

顯然地,為了要令紅酒釀得平衡而且符合自己的風格,一系列的釀酒方面的

pumping over either. This allows more whole berries and whole bunches

決定也需要好好配合。而學會作出微調、以及進行一些如cap management

to be retained, allowing a process called carbonic maceration to take

等方法,決定其餘密度、發酵的溫度和浸皮的時間,加上當季給予的條件都

place. The berries gradually breakdown through an enzymatic process,

是適當的考慮因素,所以說釀酒是如何的有趣而又有成功感呢。

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Left Bank Bordeaux Cup 2013

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arlier last month, we were going to Château Lafite Rothschild in Bordeaux to support the HK team for the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup 2013. The champion of this year is the Cambridge University. Our HK Team is seventh and is merely losing to Yale Law School for the special price of the best presentation selected by media. This is the third year for the competition originally named “20 sur vin” to invite teams other than France to join. Representatives from higher institute in the USA, UK, HK and China are invited to the competition. We had a preliminary competition in HK as early as February to select the HKU SPACE team to represent HK. They finally have a chance to travel to Bordeaux and visit top wineries, tasting the wines and having wonderful dinner for a few days before the final. In this competition organized by

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the Commanderie du Bontemps, there are three blind tasting sections besides the questions about the Bordeaux wine and culture. Representatives have to taste 3 wines in the first 2 sections to determine the relative vintage of each wine and the regions they are from. For the last one, they have to guess the vintage, appellation and winery of a wine, at the same time presenting to the judges formed by owners of different wineries. After the competition there is a great dinner at the chai of Lafite, tasting the 1983 Lafite magnum and other Bordeaux wines. All the expenses for the students are sponsored by the Commanderie. The President of the Commanderie, Emmanuel Cruse, mentioned that they will become the ambassador of Bordeaux to spread the wine culture to their community. We are also the third year to support this competition in HK and we must thanks all the volunteers for tutoring the students and

merchants who sponsored wines and venues for training of all the students. We looks forward to a better result in next year. 今年的Left Bank Bordeaux Cup 2013 在波爾多的 Château  Lafite Rothschild 正 式 完 滿 結 束 , 我 們專程為港隊打氣。冠軍是來 自英國的劍橋大學,而代表香 港 的 HKU  SPACE 隊 伍 則 排 名 第七。今年大會設了一個特別 獎,由在場的傳媒選出在品酒 環節中表現最好的隊伍,港隊 只以些微分差輸給美國耶魯大 學的代表。 從三年前開始,這項本來名為 「20 sur vin」的品酒比賽,開始 繳請法國以外的不同高等學府, 如美國、英國、香港及中國的專 上院校派隊參加。在香港,早在 2 月便舉行了盛大的初賽。之後 港隊在一輸訓練下,便在六月來 到波爾多比賽。在比賽前數天, 他們更有機會到不同的波爾多頂 級酒莊參觀及品酒,晚上更可在 酒莊享用美酒佳餚,盡享波爾多 精華遊。

這個由波爾多左岸酒莊其中 一個協會,Commanderie  du Bontemps所舉辦的比賽中, 除了考大家對波爾多葡萄酒的 文化及各酒莊的知識外,更有 三輪的蒙瓶試飲環節,要大家 從三款酒中比較年份老幼、所 屬的產區分別。而最後一輪的 試飲中,更要猜出年份、地區 及酒莊!還要在各大莊主面前 表現這款酒的個性,有如神之 水滴一樣。在經過緊張的比賽 後 , 自 然 是 在 Château  Lafite Rothschild 的酒窖中享用豐富的 晚餐及美酒,包括一瓶1983的 Lafite的陳年美酒。整個旅程 的食住行,全由 Commanderie du Bontemps的總會及香港分會 贊助。現任 Commanderie 的主 席Emmanuel Cruse表示希望參 與的學生將來成為波爾多葡萄 酒的大使,在本地宣揚葡萄酒 文化。 我們已經是第三年支持這項比 賽,同時也要再次多謝一班義務 為香港各支隊伍訓練的導師,提 供場地、酒釀的酒商,希望來年 港隊會取得更好的成績。

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Wines of Portugal in Hong Kong 葡萄牙美酒

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ocated on the west bank of the Iberian Peninsula, Portugal’s wine industry began in the Middle Ages, thriving on a maturing maritime trade environment. It peaked in the 13th century when wine from the Douro Valley travelled as far as the United Kingdom through Portugal’s extensive trade routes. Due to the long sea voyage, it was then that wineries began adding brandy to the wine, halting the fermentations and helping the wines remain free from spoilage. Thus was born Port. Today, Portugal is still a major wine producing country, and with the progression of time, modern technology and the experience of winemakers has led to a mature appellation system not only in the Douro Valley, but also in Lisboa, Vinho Verde, Dão, and Tejo. Wines of Portugal recently held a

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Hong Kong City Tasting, inviting João Paulo Martins, a chief wine critic in the country. “Portugal has over 250 native varieties, giving Portuguese wines a unique flavour.”When we tried wines during the tasting like Cabriz Encruzado Dão DOC White 2010 from Dão, it was full of mineral flavours that make it suitable for aging. Another was Quinta do Passadouro Touriga Nacional 2010 from Douro, made of the Touriga Nacional grape, an important and ancient varietal. With great aromas, smooth tannins, and balanced acidity, it is a fantastic wine. As we mentioned above, with over 250 native grape varieties each with their own unique flavours and characteristics, Portugal is well worth exploring. 座落於伊比利亞半島的西岸,葡 萄牙由中世紀開始已經發展著 成熟的航海貿易,直至13世紀更

達到頂峰,而當時的葡萄酒更 是由產地Douro Valley 一直運到 Porto ,然後經海路運送至其他 地方如英國等出售。今日的葡萄 牙依然是出產葡萄酒的主要國 家。隨著時代的進步,今日的科 技與日積月累的技術與經驗,以 及 1986 年葡萄牙加入歐盟後發 展出一套成熟的產區名稱制度, 不只 Douro Valley ,葡萄牙的其 他產酒區都出產著風格獨特而 優秀的酒款,如 Lisboa 、 Vinho Verde、Dão、Tejo等。 葡萄牙的原生品種多達250種 以上,是葡萄牙酒獨特風味的 來 源 。 例 如 來 自 Dão 的 Cabriz

Encruzado Dão DOC White 2010

便是由 100%  Encruzado 釀製而 成,香氣濃郁而充滿礦物味, 適合陳年飲用。另外一款來自 Douro 的 Quinta  do  Passadouro Touriga Nacional 2010則以著名 的原生品種 Touriga  Nacional 釀 製,一款相當重要而古老的葡萄 牙品種,釀出來的酒色深厚、香

氣夠、單寧、酸度和酒體結構都 相當好,收結悠長,接近完美的 一款酒。如上文所說,葡萄牙有 多達250個原生葡萄品種,每一 種都有其獨特風味及特質,非常 值得探索。 More Information: www.wineofportugal.com

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Hennessy Paradis Impérial 軒尼斯 Paradis Impérial

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n Christmas Eve, 1818, Tsar Alexander I of Russia celebrated his 42nd birthday, and his mother Maria Feodorovna paid respect to the French cognac makers

Hennessy to craft him a personal spirit. Two hundred years later Hennessy  have  rediscovered the original recipe and have just released it in Hong Kong and Macau, calling it Paradis Impérial.

1818年的俄國,聖誕前夕正 值沙皇亞歷山大一世的42歲 壽 辰 , 當 時 沙 皇 的 母 親 Maria Feodorovna 尊 程 為 此 向 法 國 的 釀酒世家軒尼軒訂製了一款超 凡極致的干邑為兒子賀壽…二

百年後的今天,軒尼斯又再 依據這份秘方調配新一代的 皇室干邑,正式在香港及澳門 推出這最新極致尊貴的 Paradis Impérial。

Matua – New Zealand’s Wine Producer of 2012

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Matua ─ 新西蘭2012最佳葡萄酒生產商

ack in the 1974, Bill and Ross Spence, the co-founders of Matua Wines, planted the first Sauvignon Blanc vines in Marlborough. Their innovation brought renown to New Zealand for Sauvignon Blanc, and today New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is renowned for its independent style. This year Matua winemaker Nikolai St George came to Hong Kong to celebrate being named the 2012 New Zealand Wine Producer of the Year by the IWSC. The winning wines included Matua Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2011, Black Grape Society Marlborough Pinot, Matua Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, and MV Single Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir. 新 西 蘭 的 Sauvignon   Blanc 舉 世聞名,風格獨立,可以 說是歸功於率先研究釀製

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Sauvignon  Blanc , Matua 的 Bill 和 Ross  Spence 。 1974 年,他們 的努力,為新西蘭的 Sauvignon Blanc奠定了風格和獨特的基

礎。今年來自Matua的釀酒師 Nikolai  St  George便來到香港, 慶祝Matua榮獲2012年度最佳新 西蘭葡萄酒生產商的榮譽。得獎

酒款包括Matua Single Vineyard Marlbourgh  Chardonnay 2 0 11 、 B l a c k   G r a p e   S o c i e t y Marlbourgh  Pinot、Matua Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 和 MV  Single  Vineyard  Central Otago Pinot Noir。

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Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines

July

New Zealand Food Connection

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ru Magazine attended the  New  Zealand Food Connection last month at the Ritz Carlton Hong Kong, where there was a diverse collection of some of the incredible food products coming out of New Zealand today. We loved some of the cooking demonstrations of seafood like the indigenous Blue Abalone, as well as such curiosities like lamb that has been fed entirely on a diet of herbs. In terms of alcoholic beverages, it was the first time we tried some of New Zealand’s craft beers. Stoke by McCashing’s Brewery is an innovative microbrewery that offers interesting tipples like the Bomber Smoky, which is what Laphroaig would taste like if it were an ale. These are available in Hong Kong by New Zealand Focus, who have a shop on Hennessy Road. As for wines, companies like Trinity Hills, Tohu Wines, and Kim Crawford were on show all

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day; all three are available in Hong Kong, so look out for them at your favourite restaurant! CY

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《釀‧生活》參加了上月於麗斯 卡爾頓酒店舉行的New Zealand Food Connection活動,當日大會 在場內展示了許多來自新西蘭的 食品,我們亦欣賞了許多海鮮料 理的烹飪示範,如使用藍鮑魚烹 調的菜式,另外又有肉類如醃滿 香草的羊肉菜式。 在酒精飲品方面,這是我們第 一次品嚐新西蘭出品的啤酒。由 McCashing’s  Brewery 啤酒廠釀 造,他們出產一些十分有趣的烈 性酒,就像Bomber Smoky,若 果Laphroaig是Ale的話就正正是 這樣的味道。他們的啤酒在香港 的New Zealand Focus也有銷售 點,店就在軒尼斯道。 葡 萄 酒 方 面 , 酒 款 如 Tr i n i t y H i l l s 、 To h u   W i n e s 和 K i m Crawford 都在當日活動上展出 了,這三間酒莊的酒在香港市場 上都可以找到,嘗試在城中餐廳 酒牌中找尋它們的身影吧!

Thomas Palmer Fine German wines is a boutique German wine company which specializes in the Erste Lage Riesling wines of the Nahe wine region of Germany. "Erste Lage" is the German word for the best single vineyards in Germany. Historically over hundreds of years these Erste Lage vineyards have produced the highest quality wines in Germany. Our German owned wine company is the exclusive importer and distributor in Hong Kong of five VDP Nahe wines estates and one VDP Mittelrhein wine estate:      

Tesch (2012 German Wine Maker of the Year) Kruger-Rumpf Schaefer-Froehlich (2010 German Wine Maker of the Year) Ratzenberger Dr. Crusius Gut Hermannsberg (2012 German Rising Star of the Year)

Our company's founder/director comes from a wine village in the Nahe wine region and is honored to share his culture with the people of Hong Kong. It would be a pleasure for us to provide you with recommendations of different Erste Lage Riesling Nahe wines for any occasion or to host a Erste Lage wine tasting for your next celebration or corporate event

Contact Information: Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines (H.K.) Ltd. Room 3905, Two Exchange Square Suite 8089, 8 Connaught Place, Central Tel: (852) 9137-1296 E-mail: martin@finegermanwines.hk Website: www.finegermanwines.hk

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Cru Special

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The

New

Cult Classics 經典狂熱

English Text: Ian Wong // Translation: Joe Lo

When people think of the term “Grower Champagne”, the names Anselme Selosse, Jérôme Prévost, and David Léclapart should be among the first to spring to mind. 當人們聽到「 Grower Champagne」的時,總會不 期然地想起 Anselme Selosse、 Jérôme Prévost 和

David Léclapart等名字。 -

However this is changing quickly, as I’m sure those aforementioned

可是,世界不斷地改變,而上述的酒莊們都非常地清楚這一點。香檳這個

producers already know themselves. The region of Champagne is

地區正值一場改革之中,許多發展得如火如荼的釀酒師們都被視為行業中

undergoing a revolution, and many of the burgeoning winemakers are

的先驅,又或者是怪異的,而最重要一點就是,他們彼此都是朋友。而在

eccentrics, pioneers, and most importantly, friends. After all, these

這麼多的改革與努力下,終究他們並非希望釀造一些能夠號稱世上最優秀

producers usually have a common aim—not to make the best Champagne

的香檳,相反,他們只是純粹希望自己釀製的酒款能夠樸實地表現出地區

in the world, just simply to make their own wine that best reflects the terroir

的特性與風土。

and character of their soil. 就讓我們先了解一下來自Chartogne Taillet的酒,它的土壤中混合著沙質與黏

Let’s take a look first at the wines of Chartogne Taillet, which feature an

土土壤,形成一種獨特的泥土和礦物氣息。Alexandre Chartogne只釀造四款

earthy minerality due to the presence of sand and clay in the soil. Alexandre

酒釀:St. Anne NV、Les Barres、Les Orizeaux和Les Heurtebises,而最近

Chartogne originally made four cuvées: St. Anne NV, Les Barres, Les

他又新加入了一款名為Les Allies的酒款。當中最基本的酒款St. Anne NV是一

Orizeaux, and Les Heurtebises, although he has recently added a new

款非常好的開胃酒,而另外四款則是更獨立的酒款,它們都是各自由一小片土

wine called Les Allies. Where his basic Cuvée St. Anne NV is a great aperitif

地園區中種植:Les Barres清晰地展現出100% Pinot Meunier,而且是60年的

Champagne, the next four are decidedly more focused. Each one is from

老樹藤的風味;另外Les Orizeaux是一款精緻而緊湊、使用50年樹齡的100%

a single parcel and single variety, with Les Barres showing the power of

Pinot Noir釀造;Les Heurtebise則是使用35年樹齡的100% Chardonnay所釀

100% Pinot Meunier on 60-year-old ungrafted vines, Les Orizeaux a

造;Les Allies亦是由100% Pinot Meunier釀製,但酒體方面則要比厚實的Les

refined and tense wine of 100% Pinot Noir from 50-year-old vines, and Les

Barres來得輕盈。每一款酒每年都只會生產少於2000瓶。

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Heurtebises, a rich 100% Chardonnay from 35-year-old vines. Les Allies is also 100% Pinot Meunier, but is lighter and more racy than the muscular Les Barres. Each of the four cuvées are produced in amounts of less than 2,000 bottles per year. Then there are the flinty and sharp wines of Ulysse Collin, which also focus on single variety wines from single parcels. Both Alexandre Chartogne and Olivier Collin apprenticed under Anselme Selosse, and hence their wines have much of the same purity, but at a fraction of the price. Olivier began with Les Perrières (12,000btls/year), a Blanc de Blanc made of grapes from 30-year old vines on chalky soil. His other two wines, Les Maillons (6,600 btls/year) and Les Roises (3,600 btls/year) are respectively a Blanc de Noir and a Blanc de Blanc, showcasing the clay and chalk terroir of Congy. Les Maillons is 100% Pinot Noir from 40-year-old vines, and Les Roises is 100% Chardonnay from 60-year-old vines. We quote Antonio Galloni when he says, “Collin crafts beguiling, totally fascinating Champagnes from his tiny facility in the sleepy town of Congy. These remain some of the most unique and thrilling wines being made in Champagne. There is little question Collin’s wines are now on the same level as those of his mentor, Anselme Selosse.” Raphael and Vincent Bérèche of Champagne Bérèche et Fils are fifth generation winemakers who avoid malolactic fermentation, giving a fresher and more prominent impression of fruit than Chartogne Taillet and Ulysee

然後我們接著來看這款堅硬而尖銳的 Ulysse  Collin ,他們只會使用單一 品種、以及單一葡萄園區的葡萄來釀酒。 Alexandre Chartogne 和 Olivier

Collin 兩位其實都曾拜 Anselme  Selosse 為師,而他們的所造的酒卻也有 著同樣的純淨度,只是價格上有些少差別。 Olivier 的 Les  Perrières (每 年 12,000 瓶)由白堊土上的 30 年樹齡白中白葡萄釀製;而另外兩款酒包 括 Les  Maillons (每年 6,600 瓶)及 Les  Roise (每年 3,600 瓶)分別由 來自 Congy 的黏土及白堊土、以白中黑及白中白葡萄釀製。 Les

Maillion

由 40 年樹齡的 100% Pinot Noir 釀造、 Les Roise 則由 60 年樹齡的 100%

Chardonnay 所釀造。 讓我們引用 Antonio  Gailloni 說過的一句說話:「 Collin 在沉睡中的小城

Congy 中,使用他相當簡樸的設備釀造令人著迷的、誘人的香檳。這些酒 都是香檳區內最獨人,又使人興奮的一員。現時 Collin 的酒只有一個很小的 問題,就是跟他的導師Anselme Selosse所造的酒竟到達了相同的級數。」

Raphael和Vincent Bérèche都是Champagne Bérèche et Fils的第五代 釀酒師,他們都是不主張使用蘋果乳酸發酵的一批,令釀造出來的酒款比

Chartogne Taillet及Ulysee Collin的更富新鮮突出的果香。Le Cran就是由 50 年樹齡的葡萄所釀製,其獨特的味感與深度實在令人難以忘懷;而Reflet

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d’Antan 則屬於比較罕有的 solera 風格酒款,也就是說最後的調配都是來自 之前的年份酒款,一直循環著。這款酒有著極致的複雜性,也帶著熱帶氣 息。使用100% Pinot Meunier的葡萄釀製,擁有非比尋常的白堊風味,這 款Vallée De La Marne Rive Gauche亦相當精彩,相當成熟。 在 Crouttes-sur-Marne , Vallée de la Marne 的西面遠處, Françoise

Bedel 以生物動釀造著非常獨特、以重度 Pinot

Meunier 為基礎的酒款。

超過 79% 的 Bedel 混釀都是 Meunier ,配合其餘的 Chardonnay 和 Pinot

Noir , 而 且 她 的 酒 大 多 傾 向 於 比 較 野 性 和 豐 富 果 味 的 Bérèche  et  Fils 風格。她一共釀造了四個酒款: Cuvée

Origin’elle Brut 、 Vin Secret

Brut 、 Entre Ciel et Terre 和 Comme Autrefois ,她的酒都是活力四射和 充滿生氣的,帶有油桃和草莓味道。在酵母沉澱物中的長時間熟成令酒釀 的味道更加集中,而瓶內陳年和醒酒都幫助不少,可以嘗試用 tulip 酒杯、 甚至勃艮第款的大酒杯來享用。 然後我們來到 Emmanuel

Brochet ,一個只有 2.5 公頃葡萄園地的隱世酒

莊,位於一個名為 Le Mont Benoit 、佈滿白堊土的單一葡萄園地上。他 的兩款酒 Le Mont Benoit Extra Brut 和 Millesime 都是以礦物味道為主

Collin. Wines like Le Cran come from over 50-year-old vines, giving an uncommon depth of flavour, while Reflet d’Antan is rare solerastyle wine, meaning the final blend comes from a continuous cycle of vintages. There is immense complexity in this wine, which features almost tropical flavours. Vallée De La Marne Rive Gauche is also an extravagantly open and ripe, featuring 100% Pinot Meunier in a tremendous array of exotic and chalky notes. In Crouttes-sur-Marne, far west of Vallée de la Marne, Françoise Bedel makes individualistic, biodynamic wines that are heavily Pinot Meunier based. Over 79% of Bedel’s grapes are Meunier, with the rest Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and her wines also tend towards the wilder, more exotic and fruity style that marks Bérèche et Fils. She makes four cuvées called Cuvée Origin’elle Brut, Vin Secret Brut, Entre Ciel et Terre, and Comme Autrefois, and her wines are vibrant and alive, with notes like nectarine and strawberry. Long aging on the lees makes these wines concentrated and in need of bottle aging, although decanting also helps. Try her wines in a tulip glass or even a Burgundy bowl.

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We move then to Emmanuel Brochet, a real secret of the region who manages only 2.5 hectares of vines, all located within a single parcel called Le Mont Benoit, which is bursting with chalk. His two wines Le Mont Benoit Extra Brut and Millesime are thus predictably mineral-focused, although to quote Peter Liem, one of the world’s great authorities on Champagne, the wines “are yet somehow broader and earthier, more akin to the minerality found in the wines of Jérôme Prévost to the west, or even Chartogne-Taillet to the north.” In recent years, he has decided to make his Millesime from a single variety and without malolactic, which will surely make them more fresh and focused. But don’t think for a second that all this excitement is down to hype; my own conversion to Grower Champagnes took just as long as it took me to finish Georges Laval’s Cumières NV, which I can say without a doubt is one of the most exciting wines I’ve ever tried due to its electrifyingly pure acidity. Personally I would recommend decanting Laval’s wines right before serving, which does wonders for the tenseness of the structure.

導。引用世界上最偉大的香檳作家 Peter Liem 所說:「這些酒都是非常有 泥土氣息,亦有著西面 Jérôme  Prévost 那些酒的礦物風味,又或者北面

Chartogne-Taillet 的氣息。」近幾年他亦嘗試釀造一款單一品種、不經蘋 果乳酸發酵的 Millesime ,將會是另一新鮮果香之作。 但千萬不要以為這些 Grower  Champagne 都只是一種炒作,因為我對

Grower  Champagne 的熱愛也是經過長期的浸淫才出現的,就好像完成 一瓶 Georges Laval’s Cumières NV 的時間一樣長。而我不得不說的就 是,毫無疑問這是我品嚐過最美妙的酒款之一,其純淨的酸度實在令人著 迷。就我個人來說,我會建議享用 Laval 的酒前先醒酒,才能夠把酒體結 構的紋理完美地呈現出來。

Enquiry: L’Imperatrice Fine Wines Tel: 2850 5544 Website: www.imperatrice.com.hk

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Mouton Cadet Sauvignon Blanc The Newborn Golden Sheep

金羊誕生

Text : Eddie Chui

Besides the famed reds of Bordeaux, the region also has some magnificent white wines. But we don’t have to mention the finest and rarest ones from Haut-Brion or boutique winery Valandraud, where the Sauvignon Blanc backbone is blended with Sémillon and Muscadelle. There are also some daily Bordeaux whites like the Mouton Cadet Blanc, and they have just released a 100% Sauvignon Blanc this summer. All the grapes for making this Sauvignon Blanc are from contracted growers which are under the monitor by the estate’s oenologist. Though it is labeled AOC Bordeaux, most of the grapes come from the Entre-DeuxMers region. It is located at the best region for white wines in the southern part of the region, between the two most important rivers - Dordogne and Garonne. The soil is mainly limestone clay, which is excellent for planting Sauvignon Blanc because it brings out some minerality to complement the fruitiness. After fermentation, this golden sheep will be resting on lees in the vats for four months with constant stirring of the lees. The 100% Sauvignon Blanc will thus become rounder and softer, with vibrant fruit, minerals and a high acidity. It is perfect for pairing with oysters, seafood and poultry due to its freshness and acidity. This is a perfect summer choice for having a Bordeaux option rather than another New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. 說到波爾多的白葡萄酒,大家必定想到那些由Sauvignon Blanc及Sémillon混釀的精彩酒釀。不論神級的HautBrion還是車房酒莊Valandraud所釀造的白葡萄酒,都常以Sauvignon Blanc作骨幹,再以Sémillon或加 上少許Muscadelle。當然也有不少以100% Sauvignon Blanc釀造的好酒,例如:Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux。除了這些名莊出品、產量極少的頂級白酒外,也有不少日常飲用的波爾多白葡 萄酒,例如Mouton Cadet Blanc。除了這款混釀的白酒外,最近他們更新推出了100% Sauvignon Blanc的波爾多白酒。 這款由Baron Philippe de Rothschild集團釀造的白葡萄酒,葡萄來自特約的葡萄農,在釀酒師的監控 下種植。雖然是Bordeaux AOC酒釀,但Sauvignon葡萄主要來自Entre-Deux-Mers地區,這產區正好 位於波爾多南部,在Dordogne及Garonne兩條重要河流中間。泥土是最適合種植Sauvignon Blanc的 石炭岩黏土,能提升果香之餘也帶豐富的礦物餘韻。在發酵之後,這頭金色的羊兒會在酒槽中醞釀四 個月,並定期攪動酒渣(Lees),使100% Sauvignon Blanc酒釀在豐富的果香、礦物及酸度中加上 一點圓潤、細膩,盡顯優雅,不失為一款清新怡人的波爾多白葡萄酒。她最適合配以生蠔、海鮮或雞 肉等菜餚,是這夏天新西蘭Sauvignon Blanc以外的另一選擇,炎炎夏日喝酒一樣有波爾多的份兒。

Enquiry: Jebsen Fine Wines Website: www.jebsenfinewines.com Tel: 2926 2312 (Victor Rabot) / 3180 3424 (Vanessa Chui)

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&

The Director The Winemaker 導演與釀酒師

Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Translation: Ian Wong

Before the age of digital cinematography, every major motion picture was painstaking crafted from the assemblage of hundreds of rolls of film, with each frame of light, shadow, and emotion containing the soul of the movie. But just like how the films would have to be directed, edited, and nurtured, so too is the art of making Champagne, where hundreds of winegrowers, like the cinematographers, present a raw quality product for the chef de cave, or director, to transform into a completed project. Hundreds of base wines are deployed with the aim of making a single blend of great Champagne, just like hundreds of frames are transformed to make a great enduring story. In a film, a director is definitely the soul. In a Champagne winery, the chef de cave dictates every rhythm and taste, and even a slight touch on his behalf might make a memorable difference to the final blend. For a bottle of Champagne to be impressive, ultimately a few characteristics matter: purity, texture, concentration, and complexity. These four elements are all derived from how successfully the base wine is integrated into a blend. Benoît Gouez is Moët & Chandon’s chief winemaker—the chef de caves—the soul of the Champagne. 一秒鐘電影底片有24格影像,一卷相機底片有36張照片,要拍成一部電影,起碼需要幾百卷底片。底片作為 電影的靈魂,它把所有光與影、聲音與情感都一一紀錄著。一瓶混釀香檳也是一樣,由葡萄農的悉心照料,到 釀酒師把幾百種基酒釀成,再由調配大師把幾百種味道混在一起,也經歷著背後多少人的心血和努力、時間與 心機,才能夠釀成一瓶偉大的香檳,就像大銀幕上的光與影,傳遞著歷久不衰的故事。 一部電影,導演絕對是靈魂人物;正如香檳廠的調配大師一樣,主宰著每一種味覺與神經,那怕只是一點點微 小的觸動,也足夠令你再三回味。一瓶香檳要令人感動,少不了幾樣重要的元素:純淨度、質感、集中度與 及其複雜度,這四種元素融合成為一體所構成的一種張力,就是基酒調配技藝的點睛之處。 Benoît Gouez是

Moët & Chandon的首席釀酒師,也就是整個香檳廠的靈魂人物,擔當著重要的角色,決定每一個出品的酒款 都能夠造出經典而獨特的味道。

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And aside from the aging time, the taste and quality of the Champagne depends largely on the blend and composition of the wine. As Moët & Chandon have such a large variety of base wines, the chef de cave and his team need to taste every single base wine in order to familiarize themselves with the characteristics. Recently in Hong Kong, Benoît Gouez held a small base wine tasting to introduce the concept of blending. For example, Pinot Meunier showed peaches and stone fruits like pomegranate and pear, while Pinot Noir had a high acidity from red fruits. Benoît Gouez told us that balance of course is integral to good Champagne, but so is the need for each element to be unique. Benoît Gouez also mentioned the issue of oxidation. Generally when making Champagne, slight oxidation will make the wine more variable. When using Pinot Noir base wine in a rosé Champagne, a tiny bit of oxidation in the winemaking process will enable the wine to open up earlier, providing the important hawthorn fruit character. In Chardonnay on the other hand, no oxidation occurs at all, so a base Chardonnay wine has a good balance of fruit. For us non-winemakers then, fully understanding all of the characteristics of base wine are almost impossible. It requires years of experience and clarity of mind to analyze and remember The base wines of Moët & Chandon are said to contain hundreds

all these flavours in order to make memorable Champagne. If

of different species of grapes, as the company gathers fruit from

we bring back the metaphor of the director, a story can be told

34,041 hectares of vineyards. 39% of their vineyard is Pinot Noir,

straightforwardly or with emotion; nothing in fact is easy for the

with the rest 32% Pinot Meunier and 29% Chardonnay. Benoît

crew. As Benoît explained, “Just one more base wine and you

Gouez stressed that aside from the quality of blend and fruits,

can have a more complex flavour.” Though we can’t see the final

the most important part of making Moët & Chandon is having

Champagne yet, the base wine provides a clue, just like how the

a greater diversity of blended wine, so that the consistency is

negative rolls provide a glimpse of the finished movie.

easier to manage. If Moët & Chandon consists of many plots, the dependency on each individual base wine is lessened. Moët & Chandon’s blending techniques were established in 1743, with vintage base wine constantly added into the wine. Grand Vintage Moët & Chandon was slowly separated and introduced to the market throughout the years, and Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial NV arrived in 1997. The Grand Vintage Champagne is made only in the best years, and for example with the Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Rosé 2004, a warm summer and adequate rainfall led to a high degree of detail and liveliness in the wine. After being aged for so many years before release, it has a complex and intense taste.

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較快,因為在釀製的過程之中,它沒有經過任何氧化的處理,所 以它的紅果味道和酸度都會比較高,是形成粉紅香檳的重要紅果果 香元素之一。而相反, Chardonnay則沒有任何氧化的處理,品嚐

Chardonnay基酒,找尋的一定是它的潛力與複雜性,找出可持續 的平衡果香。 作為非釀酒師的話,要完全讀懂所有基酒的特點是幾乎沒有可能 的,單單調配一款香檳已經需要用到多少時日和心機,還有擁有 過人的清晰思維,就好像電影製作中的剪片大師,把最能夠表達 故事人物性格心靈的一面,一段一段的編輯好,做到恰如其分, 實在不是一件易事。 Benoît  Gouez 亦說過:「只有調配更多不

Benoît Gouez說過,一款Moët & Chandon年份香檳的基酒可以多達

同的基酒,你才可以擁有更複雜的味道。」決定一瓶香檳的基酒

幾百種。來自Moët & Chandon擁有位於香檳區34,041公頃、39%

比例,絕對不是基於完成品的味道,而是手頭上的基酒種類和特

種植Pinot Noir、32%種植Pinot Meunier、29%種植Chardonnay的

性;電影亦如是,一部電影最後會拍成怎樣,沒有人能夠預知,

葡萄園土地。他亦提及到釀造優質混釀香檳,其中一個最重要的要

只有從一張張的底片之中拼湊著、一款又款的基酒作出調配過,

决,就是保持一致的質素與味道,而一間香檳廠所擁有的多樣性愈

才會找到最後的答案。

大,所釀造的味道一致性就愈高。 以基酒混調技藝而聞名的Moët & Chandon於1743年成立,歷史悠 久。多年來只推出年份香檳,一直至1997年才首次推出非年份香檳 的Impérial粉紅香檳系列,而年份粉紅香檳就更只會於傑出的年份生 產。溫暖的夏季、充足的降雨量,這些都是打造出優秀年份的條件 之一,就好像2004粉紅年份香檳之中的活潑與細緻度,也是當年收 成出眾的結果。2004年份粉紅香檳的陳年時間亦延長至七年,令口 感更複雜濃厚。 當然,除了陳年時間以外,其葡萄的質量及調配的比例亦是取決香 檳味感的主要原因。上文提及到,Moët & Chandon的基酒多達幾 百種,要準確地調配出適合的味道與風格便需要準確地拿揑每一款 基酒的特性。日前Moët & Chandon在香港便舉行了一場小型基酒品 鑑會,由首席釀酒師Benoît Gouez介紹品牌的基酒調配基本概念。 當日品試的基酒首先有Pinot Meunier、Pinot Noir和Chardonnay各 兩款作比較,而這些基酒當中各自的對比亦相當強烈,有些口感溫 和而入口柔軟順滑,有些果味會比較重,例如Pinot Meunier中的蜜 桃、核果、石榴和啤梨等味道;以及Pinot Noir中那些酸度稍高的紅 果風味。Benoît Gouez解釋,好喝的基酒入口或許會令人感覺平衡 舒暢,可是要成為香檳的一部份,每一款基酒都需要充份地發揮它 的獨特性,所以相對來說入口味道偏重一點、果味再強烈一點的基 酒才擁有混釀的潛力。 在調配的時候, Benoît Gouez亦提到氧化的問題。一般情況下, 釀造香檳的時候輕微的氧化作用能夠使香檳的味道更多變。對於 基酒來說,以當日品嚐的 Pinot Noir基酒為例,它的陳年速度會比

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il Pollenza 2007

Porpora 2008

PiusIX Mastai 2008

Cosmino 2004

Gold - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Bronze - Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Silver(90 points) - Rubis Award Top 100

Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Award 2012 Silver - International Beverage Exhibition and Competition 2011 Gamberro Rosso 2glasses

Bronze - Decanter World Wine Award 2010 Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Bronze (89 points) -Rubis Award Top 100 Wines In China Evaluation

Gold - Guangdong Wination Expo of Wine and Spirits 2012 Duemilavini 3Grappoli Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2011 Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012

Wines In China Evaluation 2011

Duemilavini 4Grappoli

2011 Duemilavini 5Grappoli

Angera 2011

Didi 2011

Duende 2010

Brianello 2010

Bronze - Decanter Asia Wine Awards 2012 Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Seal of Approval - AWC Vienna 2012

Gold - Mundus vini 2012 Silver - AWC Vienna 2012

Bronze Award Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011

Commended - Decanter World Wine Award 2012 Gamberro 1glassRosso Duemilavini 3Grappoli

Exclusive Distributor Asia 總代理 : Three Bond Hong Kong Co., Ltd. www.threebond.com.hk

000_IL POLLENZA.indd 1

Kimberly Wines & Cigars Shop

2721 5211

G/F, Shop A, Carson Maison, 61 Kimberley Rd, TST

www.kimberleywineshop.com

96 Boham/ The Wine Shop

2972 7888

G/F, 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK

www.96bonham.com.hk

ABC Wines Limited

2380 6883

No.22, G/F, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Road TST

www.abcwines.com.hk

2380 6670

G01, Manhattan Mid Town, 1 Po Lun Street Mei Foo KLN

1/3/13 4:14 PM


PANEL TASTING

029

This is Australia 這就是澳大利亞 Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Translation: Ian Wong // Images: Alvin Luk Special thanks: Sky Lounge, Hotel Nikko Hong Kong

Panel Tasting_Shiraz.indd 1

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030

PANEL TASTING

Australia—a vast land in the southern hemisphere, where

Shiraz from all over the country. But due to the immense

most of the terrain is desert and semi-arid, but where in

amount of Shiraz imported into Hong Kong, we had to limit

the highlands there are tropical rainforests and wilderness.

it to bottles that are priced at $300 HKD or more. Therefore

Here are some of the world’s most beautiful ecological

we could compare consistently samples of Shiraz which

reserves, and in South Australia, New South Wales, and

represent the best of Australia.

Victoria there are many large and small vineyards, with many different grape varieties. 澳洲,一片位於南半球的廣闊土地,大半部份都是荒漠與半乾旱地

One of the most representative grapes of Australia is Shiraz,

帶,但是從高地荒原到熱帶雨林,這裡卻是舉世聞名的自然生態地

otherwise known as Syrah. Imported into Australia as early

區;而在澳洲南面如新南威爾斯、維多利亞以及西澳的帕斯等地區,

as in 1932, for decades nobody knew the two grapes were

卻有著很多大大小小的葡萄園地,種植著很多不同的葡萄品種。

related. It has adapted to the region in a remarkably different way, and it wasn’t until the 80’s that winemakers and grape

其中一款最能夠代表澳洲的就是 Shiraz 。Shiraz 早在 1932 年的時

growers discovered how best to utilize the diversity of this

候,便已經從法國入口到澳洲。由法國的Syrah 到當時的Shiraz ,

grape, or that it was the same as the one in France.

這個品種在這片不一樣的土地上一種幾十年。一直到了八十年代, 葡萄農與釀酒師們也就發現,Shiraz 的可塑性是如何地高、它的多

With the geographical differences in the land, the influence

樣性能夠如何地發揮至極致。

on the Shiraz is notably different in each region. In general, Shiraz in Victoria is more elegant, while Coonawarra and

隨著地域的不同, Shiraz所種植的效果也有所不同。整體來說,從

Margaret River Shiraz is more peppery and spicy. McLaren

Victoria優雅的胡椒香到甘醇帶香料香氣的Coonawarra和Margaret

Vale and Barossa Valley Shiraz is famed for being robust,

River、到McLaren Vale的強勁後勁及Barossa的醇厚果香,Shiraz都

fruity, and mellow, proving that the varietal is quite adaptive

帶出了每一個地域所在的風土。以Shiraz釀製的葡萄酒酒色深邃、單

to different terroir. With its deep colour, rather heavy tannins,

寧頗重、酒體厚實,大多有著紫羅蘭、巧克力和煙燻等香氣。而在眾

the wine is definitely concentrated, although good examples

多釀酒地區當中,雖以Barossa的Shiraz以其爆發力強勁而聞名,可

have violets, chocolate, and smoky aromas. Barossa is

是其他地區也同樣表現著Shiraz的另一種美態。

perhaps the most famous as the Shiraz is explosive and powerful, but the other regions are fascinating for showing

在今期的《釀‧生活》,就讓我們帶來三十多款來自澳洲不同地區

a different side of this grape.

的 Shiraz 酒款進行矇瓶品試。另一方面,澳洲的 Shiraz 實在有太 多太多,於是我們商討過後,只好把價錢定於港幣 300 元以上的酒

In this issue of Cru Magazine, we tasted 30 varieties of

Panel Tasting_Shiraz.indd 2

款,令品試的酒款更一致,才讓品酒師們矇瓶品試。

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031

Tasters

From Left: Kelvin Cheng, Ian Symonds, Jordi Chan, Eddie Chui, Wallace Lo, Ivan Hui, Patty Lo, Noble Law, Mabel Lai, Katrina Lau

Guest Tasters Kelvin Cheng

Currently the Sommelier at The Aberdeen Marina Club, Kelvin has achieved Level 2 of the WSET and is an “Introductory Sommelier” of the Court of Master Sommeliers. He is also a member of the Asia Wine Institute and a graduate of the Shanghai Jiao Tong University Professional Sommelier Program: “WISDOM Advance Level”. 深灣遊艇俱樂部品酒師,通過由香格里拉集團舉辦的品酒師訓練課程後,Kelvin已成為香港新一代的專業品酒師之 一。專業資格包括WSET第二級、Court of Master Sommeliers的「 Introductory Sommelier」、亞洲葡萄酒學 會及上海交通大學合辦的品酒師計劃之進階課程。

Scoring system

100 point system / 100分系統

points awarded

year of tasting

best potential year to taste

得分

品評年份

最佳飲用年份

88 2012

2020A

D – drink now 現在享用 A – suitable to drink now, but will improve with time可享用,但陳年會更佳 K – allow more maturing time before enjoying應再陳年一段時間才享用

Panel Tasting_Shiraz.indd 3

96-100

Perfect or nearly perfect wine without any flaws, reaching the highest standards in every aspect, and leaving the drinker wanting more. 接近完美、沒有瑕疵的酒,各方面達到最高水準,讓人再三回味。

90-95

Outstanding wine in every aspect, precise and alluring

85-89

Outstanding wine with character, reflects terroir

80-84

Good quality wine with character, reflects terroir, but not outstanding.

70-79

Simple and straightforward wine, but with minimal character.

60-69

Dull or flat wine without character

50-59

Faulty or unacceptable wine

出眾的酒,各方面表現出色,鮮明具吸引力 。 品質優良的酒,有個性,能顯示產區風格並表現突出。 品質優良的酒,有個性,能顯示產區風格並,但表現並不突出。 簡單,直接的酒,但未能突個性。 不對眼,沒有個性,沉悶的酒。 有問題,不能接受的酒

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Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz 2oo9 95 2013

2018A

Jebsen Fine Wine Club // 3180 3424 // www.wynns.com.au

$608

1 TOP

Fromnawarra Coo

Wynns Estate is an Australian winery based in Coonawarra, South Australia. The estate was founded in 1891 by John Riddoch who recognised the potential of the now famous red soil and planted vines. 由John Riddoch創於1891年,Wynns Estate是一所位於Connawarra的南澳洲酒莊,亦 是他發現了著名的紅土後,所創立的酒莊和種植的葡萄園。

Ivan Hui Ruby red. Ripe black fruits with subtle oak aromas. Aging potential around 5 to 8 years. 紅寶石色。成熟的黑色水果與纖細的橡木香氣。5 至8 年左右的陳 年潛力。

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033

$750

The world renowned vineyard Moorooroo is already 165 years old. This irreplaceable vineyard was planted by Johan and William Jacob in 1847, just 11 years after the foundation of South Australia. 著名的葡萄園Moorooroo已有165年歷史,由Johan和William Jacob於1847年建立,亦 是南澳洲成立11年的時候。

Mabel Lai

Bright ruby colour. Attractive floral aromas with some raspberry, plum, cedar and hint of leather. Obvious liquorice and mocha. Very soft tannins, showing some plums, red cherry with some liquorice and cedar, lots of mocha. Long creamy finish, full body. 明亮的紅寶石色。迷人花香,滲透著覆盆子、梅子、雪松和淡淡 的皮革,明顯的甘草和mocha。單寧極之柔和,呈現出一些梅子 和紅櫻桃,帶有甘草與雪松,mocha味濃。長久和奶油質感的收 結,酒體圓潤。

2 TOP

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From ssa Baro Schild Estate Moorooroo Shiraz 2oo6 94 2013

2016A

City Super Ltd. // 2956 2668 // www.schildestate.com.au

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PANEL TASTING

Petaluma Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2oo8 93 2013

2016A

ASC Fine Wines // 3923 6700 // www.petaluma.com.au

$400

3 TOP

From delaide Hills A

Established in 1976, Petaluma has unlocked the great potential of Shiraz from the Hanlin Hill Vineyard in Clare, pioneered the Piccadilly Valley and Mount Barker in the Adelaide Hills. 創立於1976年,Petaluma從位於Clare的Hanlin Hill Vineyard,解放了種植Shiraz的巨 大潛力,更開拓了Adelaide Hills的Piccadilly Valley和Mount Barker。

Kelvin Cheng

Clean with deep ruby red colour. Intense dark cherry, dark plum, black berry, with vanilla, spice, and white pepper aromas. Medium bodied and balanced tannins with acidity. On the palate there is dark cherry, dark plum, black berry. A fruity wine with complex structure. 通透的深寶石紅色。濃郁豐富,散發黑櫻桃、黑梅子和黑莓香 味,帶有雲呢嗱、白胡椒與香料。香氣複雜而集中。中等酒體, 單寧與酸度都十分平衡。入口都是黑櫻桃、黑梅子和黑莓

。是

一款結構複雜的果味葡萄酒。

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McLaren Vale

035

$330

RockBare Burvill McLaren Vale Shiraz 2oo6 93 2013

2018A

Global Wine Cellar Ltd. // 2543 6339 // www.rockbare.com.au

Ivan Hui

Clear garnet colour shows some level of maturity. Medium intensity of ripe dark prune, good use of oak. Fruit cake note. A dry wine with moderate acidity. Medium bodied. Plum and prune, cedar, vanilla, chocolate, earthy sweet tannin. Moderate finish. 清澈的石榴色,表現出一定成熟程度。中等濃度的成熟黑梅乾,良好橡木味。還 有水果蛋糕香味。是一款不甜的葡萄酒,酸度適中。中等酒體。梅子和梅乾、雪 松、雲呢嗱和朱古力,親切的單寧。中等收結。

$489

e l a V n e r a McL Wirra Wirra R.S.W. Shiraz 2o1o 93 2013

2015A

Kedington Wines (Far East) Co., Ltd. // 2898 9323 // www.wirrawirra.com

Mabel Lai

Deep bright purple colour. Fruit dominated. Lots of fresh raspberry, cherry, some blueberry and a hint of gum and candy. Lots of fresh plum and raspberry with very soft tannins. Short finish. 明亮的深紫色。果味為主。豐郁新鮮的覆盆子、櫻桃,一些藍莓和淡淡的口香 糖和糖果味。大量鮮梅子、覆盆子味道,非常柔軟的單寧。收結短促。

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PANEL TASTING

$259

r e v i R t e Margar Cape Mentelle Margaret River Shiraz 2o11 93 2013

2020A

Moët Hennessy Diageo Hong Kong Ltd. // 2976 1888 // www.capementelle.com.au

Ian Symonds Lovely ruby colour. Red fruits, hint of spice on the nose. Crisp acidity, very fine velvety tannins; sour plum and cherry, elegant long finish. 迷人的紅寶石色。紅色水果、淡淡的香料香氣。清爽酸性,非常精細的單寧, 如天鵝絨般柔滑,酸梅和櫻桃味,優雅而悠長的餘韻。

y e l l a V e r a l C

$520

Taylors St Andrews Shiraz 2oo6  92 2013

2016A

Milon Wine Company Ltd. // 2408 3090 // www.taylorswines.com.au

Mabel Lai

Bright ruby colour. Floral with ripe plums and black cherry; lots of liquorice, leather, and chocolate. Very attractive floral notes at first, then comes lots of plum and cherry. Hint of liquorice and mocha, soft tannins, balanced with obvious acidity. Lingering finish. 明亮的紅寶石色。花香與成熟的梅子、黑櫻桃和大量甘草、皮革與朱古力。非 常吸引的花香為先,大量梅子和櫻桃隨之而來,淡淡的甘草和mocha,單寧柔 和,平衡顯著的酸度。餘韻悠長。

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PANEL TASTING

y e l l a V e r a l C

037

$589

Kilikanoon Oracle Shiraz 2oo9 91 2018

2020K

Altaya Wines Ltd. // 2523 1945 // www.kilikanoon.com.au

Jordi Chan

A complex and powerful aroma, dominated by smokey and toasty which give a n image of Chorcal, hint of berry was shown after aceration. A concentrated wine with full bodied, showing high intensity of prune, plums, blackberry and blackcurrant. Good Length. 複雜和強勁的香氣,以煙燻和烤麵包為主,讓人聯想到木炭,透氣後散發淡淡的 莓果。酒身圓潤,非常集中,呈現出高濃度的梅乾、梅子、黑莓和黑加侖子。收 結良好。

$299

, e l a V n e r a McL lare Valley C

Hardys HRB D649 Shiraz 2oo9 91 2013

2015D

Accolade Wines // +65 63367759 // www.hardys.com.au

Eddie Chui Ripe black fruits with gamy characters on the palate. Shows good complexity, with coffee notes and fine tannins. 入口為成熟的黑色水果,帶有野味性質。表現出良好的複雜性、咖啡特質、氣 候、優良而成熟的單寧。

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$598

a r r a w a n Coo Brand’s Laira Stentiford’s Old Vine Shiraz Coonawarra 2oo5 90 2015

2017A

Telford International Company Ltd. // 2612 2310 // www.mcwilliams.com.au

Jordi Chan

A fruity aroma showing blackcurrant, blackberry and blueberry, some vanilla and milk chocolate, and a hint of liquorice. A full-bodied wine showing fruity characters, lots of dark fruit, chocolate and coffee aftertaste. 果味相當豐富,帶有黑加侖子、黑莓和藍莓,一些雲呢嗱和牛奶朱古力, 以及淡淡的甘草。酒身圓潤,盡顯果味特質,大量的黑莓、朱古力和咖啡 餘韻。

a s s o r a B

$330

RockBare Barossa Babe Shiraz 2oo9 90 2013

2017A

Global Wine Cellar Ltd. // 2543 6339 // www.rockbare.com.au

Patty Lo

Ruby red, legs are slow and obvious. On the nose there are plums, raspberry, mint, smoky and tabacco; some black fruit. Good acidity, also plummy, raspberry, tea leaf notes on the palate. Smooth tannin, elegant, medium bodied. A lovely wine. 紅寶石色,酒腳緩慢而顯著。香氣為梅子、覆盆子、薄荷、煙燻和煙草,夾雜 一些黑色水果。良好的酸度,嚐到梅子、覆盆子和荼葉。單寧柔滑且優雅,中 等酒體。是一款可愛的酒。

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PANEL TASTING

Barossa

039

$660

Hentley Farm “The Beast” Barossa Shiraz 2o1o 90 2013

2020A

12 Bottles Company Ltd. // 2546 7628 // www.hentleyfarm.com.au

Noble Law Ruby red, very intense and a lot of berries, sweet candies. Full bodied, many berries and pepper on the palate. Long finish. 紅寶石色。極為豐郁的莓果和香甜糖果。酒身圓潤,含多種莓果和胡椒味,收結 長久。

$759

a i l a r t s u A h t u So Penfolds St.Henri Shiraz 2oo8 90 2013

2016A

Jebsen Fine Wine Club // 3180 3424 // www.penfolds.com

Patty Lo

Deep dark red colour, legs are slow and obvious, strong alcohol structure. First nose of cherry, plum, mint and black currant, smoked and roasted. Lively acid, sour cherry and tealeaf on the palate, dry, jammy. Medium bodied. 深暗紅寶石色,酒腳緩慢且明顯,強烈的酒精結構。櫻桃、梅子、薄荷和黑加 侖子香味,煙燻和烤過的味道。跳脫的酸度,入口嚐到酸櫻桃和茶葉,不甜, 充滿果醬。中等酒體。

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PANEL TASTING

$635

a s s o r a B Saltram No.1 Barossa Shiraz 2oo6 90 2013

2020A

Edrington Hong Kong Ltd. // 2891 8086 // www.saltramwines.com.au

Kelvin Cheng

Clean, deep ruby colour with legs. Intense dark cherry and black berry nose. Medium bodied and alcoholic, with elegant tannins and a balanced acidity. Dark cherry, black berry, vanilla, and flowers on the long finish. 亮麗的深紅寶石色,具有酒腳。濃郁的黑櫻桃和黑莓香味。雲呢嗱與煙燻 橡木味。華麗而複雜。中等酒體和酒精,優雅單寧,酸度平衡。黑櫻桃, 黑莓花,複雜和典雅。餘韻悠長。

McLaren Vale

$473

The Old Faithful Café Block McLaren Vale Shiraz 2oo6 90 2013

2023A

12 Bottles Company Ltd. // 2546 7628 // adelaidewinemakers.com.au

Ivan Hui

Deep ruby red colour. Subtle aromas of black fruit. Flower and earthiness. Very well intergrated of plum and black berry with oak characteractics. Earthy. Fine tannin, rather long finish. 深寶石紅色。內斂的黑色水果香氣。花香和泥土氣息。梅子和黑莓與橡木非常 融洽。充滿土壤氣息。精細單寧,餘韻長久。

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PANEL TASTING

a s s o r a B

041

$620

Torbreck The Struie 2o1o 90 2013

2015A

Links Concepts Company Ltd. // 2802 2818 // www.torbreck.com

Ian Symonds

Vibrant purple to deep ruby colour. Spice with vanilla and fruit, rich seductive nose. Crisp acidity, lush fruit and a big hit of spicy oak at the finish. 跳脫鮮明的紫色到深紅寶石色。香料、雲呢嗱和果味濃厚迷人。爽勁的酸度,果 味豐富,香料橡木的結收,極為吸引。

$618

s y e l l a V r e t Hun Tyrrell’s Johnno’s Shiraz 2oo9 90 2013

2015D

Edrington Hong Kong Ltd. // 2891 8086 // www.tyrrells.com.au

Eddie Chui

Intense blackfruit with a gamy note on the palate. Taste of plum and ripe blueberries, dominated with a touch of Asian spices and smokiness. Finish is medium with fine firm tannins; acidity is lovely to support the fruit on the palate. 入口為濃郁的黑色水果與野味。梅子、成熟的藍莓味道,以中藥和煙燻為 主。中等收結,單寧結實而細緻,迷人的酸度,能襯托水果味道。

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PANEL TASTING

$433

s n a i p m a r G Mount Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz 2oo5 90 2013

2025A

wine ‘n’things // 2873 5733 // www.langi.com.au

Katrina Lau

Clean, bright ruby red colour, good condition on apperance. The noise have intense black fruit with lotus leaf, mint. High acidity, tight tannin, intense flavor like black currant, black cherry, dry finish, hot mouthfeel, full bodied, good length, well balanced with good aging potential. 清澈的鮮紅寶石色,外表感覺良好。香味是濃郁的黑色水果,伴隨荷葉和薄 荷。酸度高,單寧緊緻,帶有強烈的味道如黑加侖子和黑莓,乾身收結,口感 灼熱,酒身圓潤,出色的餘韻,非常平衡,並且具有良好的陳年潛力。

a s s o r a B

$500

Grant Burge Filsell Shiraz 2o1o 89 2015

2015D

Enoteca Co.,Ltd Hong Kong // 2526 2008 // www.grantburgewines.com.au

Jordi Chan

A subtle nose showing hints of pepper, some prune and plum, and some smoky aromas too. Good acidity with some red fruit and dark fruit mixed together. 含蓄的香味,散發淡淡的胡椒,還有些梅乾、梅子和煙燻香氣。良好酸度,讓 酒具備良好的樹色,混合著一些紅色和深色水果。

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PANEL TASTING

Gemtree Obsidian Shiraz 2oo5 89 2015

2021K

McLaren

Vale

043

$388

MaxScene International Ltd. // 2856 0308 // www.gemtreewines.com

A youthful shiny purple, very fresh! Deep subtle sweet blueberry pie-like

Wallace Lo

aroma, with sweet tabacco, milk chocolate and vanilla notes. Sweet and ripe. Typical, solid and sweet tannins, balance, and big structure. Big and meaty. A big, bold wine with a great piece of grill steak. 耀目的淺紫色,極為鮮明!濃郁而纖細香味,就像藍莓批那樣香甜,帶有迷人的煙 草、朱古力和雲呢嗱,香甜而成熟。典型、堅固和帶甜的單寧,平衡且粗壯的結構。 肉香味濃和雄偉,是烤牛扒的絕配。

$325

Schubert Estate The Sentinel Barossa Valley Shiraz 2oo9

Barossa 89 2013

2016A

Wines Connection Limited // 2947 7988 // www.schubertestate.com.au

Ian Symonds Deep purple, vibrant colour. Black currant, plum, cherry, rich red fruits on the nose. Crisp acidity and fine tannins; an elegant wine with a good finish of spice and fruit. 深紫色,充滿活力。黑加侖子、梅子和櫻桃,豐富的紅色水果香氣。清脆的酸度,單 寧細緻,充滿香料和水果,是一款優雅的葡萄酒 。

Bella Ridge Shiraz 2oo5 89 2013

2018A

ey Swan Vall

$458

Cottage Vineyards // 2395 1293 // www.bellaridge.com.au

Wallace Lo

Clear, bright ruby colour. Dense powerful aroma with lots of ripe dark and red berries, topped with some warm spicy aroma of cinnamon and cloves. Little dusty and mint. Rich and full textured with ripe tannins, black berries, prunes, and meat. Also with a rich, warm aftertaste. 清澈明亮的紅寶石色。香味濃厚有力,充滿成熟的黑莓和紅莓,還有些溫暖的肉桂和 丁香香料。少許麝香和薄荷,結構緊密豐厚,成熟的單寧、黑莓、梅乾、肉香,餘韻 悠長而豐富。

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044

PANEL TASTING

$436

McLaren

Val

Dowie Doole Reserve Shiraz 2oo6 e 88 2013

2013D

Liquid Assets Ltd. // 3101 2962 // www.dowiedoole.com

Noble Law Orange rim and light colour, floral and gamey. On the palate, there are orange blossom, game, and very fine tannins, good and long finish. 橙色邊緣,顏色暗淡,帶有花香和動物香氣。入口有橙花和野味,非常細緻的單寧, 良好和悠長的收結。

Redheads Studio Barrel Monkeys 2oo8 88 2013

2023A

Hong Kong Bacchus Fine Wines Group // 2406 0986

Katrina Lau

Vale McLaren

$325

Clarity, good condition, shows deep ruby red colour. Good body structure. Nose of red cherry, red currant, mint, black pepper and lotus leaf. Medium acidity, firm tannin, high alcohol with black currant, cherry. Dry finish with sweet spicy on the aftertaste. Smooth mouthfeel, pleasant and balanced. 清晰和狀況良好,深紅寶石色。良好的酒體結構。香氣為紅櫻桃,紅醋栗,薄荷,黑 胡椒和荷葉。中等酸度,單寧結實,酒精含量高,帶有黑加侖子和櫻桃。乾身收結, 甜甜的香料味餘韻。順滑口感,平衡且令人歡喜。

$899

McLaren

Vale

Eileen Hardy McLaren Vale Shiraz 2oo5 88 2015

2018A

Accolade Wines // +65 63367759 // www.hardys.com.au

Eddie Chui Blackfruit nose with a touch of asian spices on the palate. Brillant acidity, with fine tannins. 黑色水果香氣,帶有中式香料的味道。精彩出色的酸度,單寧細緻。

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PANEL TASTING

3 Drops Shiraz 2008 88 2015

2019A

Emtex Industrial Co. Ltd. // 2522 1523 // www.3drops.com

Mount B

arker

045

$438

Good intensity with lots of spicy, such as liquorice, mint, lemongrass, hint

Jordi Chan

of dark chocolate and prunes. Wonderful palate, pleasant mouthfeel with complex taste showcases Asian herbs, spices, ripe fruits, and blueberry jam. A noticable acidity give a lively performance. 甘草、薄荷和檸檬草的香料味濃郁,淡淡的黑朱古力和梅乾。複雜的味道,散發出中 藥、香料、成熟的水果和藍莓果醬味,精彩豐富,口感令人歡愉。明顯的酸度,表現 非常生動。

$485

Barossa

Maverick Greenock Rise Barossa Shiraz 2oo6 87 2013

2015A

wine ‘n’things // 2873 5733 // www.maverickwines.com.au

Patty Lo

Deep red colour, legs are slow, good structure, nose of raspberry, cherry, plum mint and black pepper. Also vanilla and chocolate. Good acidity, plum and tealeaf on the palate, smooth tannin, medium bodied, good to pair with roasted lamb. 深紅寶石色,緩慢的掛杯,結構良好,覆盆子、櫻桃、梅子、薄荷和黑胡椒香氣。當 中亦有雲呢嗱和朱古力。非常好的酸度,入口有梅子和茶葉,柔滑單寧,中等酒體, 與烤羊肉很合襯。

Brown Brothers Patricia Shiraz 2006 87 2013

2015D

ASC Fine Wines // 3923 6700 // www.brownbrothers.com.au

Wallace Lo

ctoria i V l a tr n e C

$516

Dark ruby red with some dark purple hues. Subtle and elegant aromas of wet earth, sweet fruit, and leather. Seed of stonefruit. Rich and strong structure with ripe and sweet strawberry jam, savory mineral and earthy tone. A subtle wine with depth and minerality. 帶有暗紫的深紅寶石色。濕泥土和甜水果香味,含蓄而優雅。核果種子。結構豐厚剛 強,蘊含成熟甜美的草莓醬、芳香的礦物質和土壤氣息。是一款有深度和礦物特質的 精緻葡萄酒。

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PANEL TASTING

$325

Margaret R

Lenton Brae Margaret River Shiraz 2oo8 iver 87 2013

2016A

Wines Connection Limited // 2947 7988 // www.lentonbrae.com

Kelvin Cheng

Clean with ruby colour, with light ruby rim and legs. Clear and medium plus acidity, nose of ripe raspberry, red currant, with a touch of vanilla and spices. A dry wine with soft tannins and fine acidity, Medium bodied balanced very well. Found red currant and ripe raspberry on the palate. Easy to drink. 亮麗的寶石色,邊緣和酒腳色較淡。中高酸性,清爽怡人,成熟的覆盆子和紅醋栗 香味,還有淡淡的雲呢嗱及香料。不甜,單寧柔軟,細緻的酸度。中等酒體,非常平 衡。入口為紅醋栗和濃郁的覆盆子,容易入口。

Samuel’s Gorge Shiraz 2o1o 87 2013

2018D

Amorosso Fine Wines // 3590 5348 // www.gorge.com.au

Eddie Chui

Vale McLaren

$348

Red fruit on the nose with mint and dried rose petals. On the palate it is medium-bodied and elegant, showing a cooler climate character. Long finish, tannins are firm but fine. Hint of Asian spice and mineral. 紅色水果的香氣,乾玫瑰花瓣的薄荷香。中等酒體而優雅的口感,呈現出涼爽氣候之 特性。餘韻悠長,單寧結實又細緻。還有淡淡���中藥和礦物味。

$555

Granite Belt

Symphony Hill Wines Reserve Shiraz 2oo6 87 2013

2015D

Hong Kong Bacchus Fine Wines Group // 2406 0986 // www.symphonyhill.com.au

Eddie Chui

Aroma of blackfruits with a hint of herbal spices. Palate is loaded with red fruits, a more elegant Shiraz that has fine tannins and an elegant finish. Lighter then what I expected in a normal Australian Shiraz. 黑色果實的香氣,滲透淡淡草本香料。充滿紅色水果的味道,具有細緻單寧,優雅收 結,是一支華麗的 Shiraz。比我預期的澳洲 Shiraz略為輕巧。

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PANEL TASTING

Longview The Piece Shiraz 2oo8 87 2013

2020A

Hills e d i a l e d A

047

$690

Amorosso Fine Wines // 3590 5348 // www.longviewvineyard.com.au

Clean, bright beautiful ruby red, good legs. First nose is black currant, black

Katrina Lau

cherry, bouquet is liquorice, cinemon, mint, clove. This wine has a lovely acidity, tight tannins with sour cherry, black currant, a dry finish with mint, and black pepper on the aftertaste. 亮麗通透的紅寶石色,良好的掛杯能力。首重氣味為黑加侖子和黑櫻桃,成熟後散發 甘草、肉桂、薄荷和丁香。具備迷人的酸度,緊密單寧,伴隨酸櫻桃和黑加侖子,不 甜的收結,帶有薄荷、黑椒餘韻。

Hentley Farm “The Beauty” Barossa Shiraz 2o1o

$420

Barossa 86 2013

2025K

12 Bottles Company Ltd. // 2546 7628 // www.hentleyfarm.com.au

Noble Law Ruby red in colour. Aromas of red fruits, and mineral. Still a lot of ref fruits on the palate, mineral and woody, long finish. Good potential for aging at least for 10 years. 紅寶石色。紅色水果和礦物質香味。入口仍然是紅色水果、礦物質和木香,餘韻悠 長。具有至少10年的良好陳年潛力。

Meerea Park Alexander Munro Hunter Valley Shiraz 2oo7 85 2013

2018A

ey Hunter Vall

$580

Wines Connection Limited // 2947 7988 // www.meereapark.com.au

Kelvin Cheng

Wine is clean, deep ruby colour, no sediment and long legs. Nose of strawberry jam, sweet red cherry, fresh roses, vanilla, spice, and a touch of smoke too. Complex and intense. Balanced body, with strawberry, red cherry, and touch of vanilla. Elegant and complex. 清澈的深紅寶石酒色,沒有任何沉澱物和酒腳。香味為草莓果醬、甜美紅莓、新鮮玫 瑰、雲呢嗱和香料,還有淡淡的煙燻。複雜和濃郁。酒體十分平衡,帶有草莓、紅莓 和些許雲呢嗱。優雅而複雜。

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PANEL TASTING

Editor’s Choices Eddie Chui: Austrailan Shiraz has been representing the local wine industry for a long time. We always think of Australian Shiraz as big bold strong alcoholic wine that we should avoid during summer. In fact, that is true for the Barossa Valley, but other regions in Australia could producing finer, elegant Shiraz that reminds us of those from the Northern Rhone in France. I am particular fond of the cooler regions like Coonawarra and Margaret River. Two of my choices is coming from Coonawarra together with a balanced, refined, layered Shiraz coming from the Barossa Valley. Here are my choices: 澳洲的Shiraz一向標誌著當地的葡萄酒行業,是最具代表性的酒款。在大家的心目中,澳洲的Shiraz偏向豐 厚,強勁而具爆發力,不會是夏天的首選。但這只是局限於Brossa Valley這些較炎熱的產區,也有不少地 區能釀造出優雅風格的酒釀,有如北隆河的佳釀。我自己特別喜愛較涼產區,如 Coonawarra或Margaret

River 所釀造的酒款。在這之品試中,我最愛的三款當中便有兩款是來自 Coonawarra 的。而另一款來自 Barossa Valley的則是平衡、細膩而複雜的Shiraz。以下是我的推介: 1.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz 2009

2.

Schild Estate Moorooroo Shiraz 2006

3.

Brand’s Laira Stentiford’s Old Vine Shiraz Coonawarra

Ian Wong & Joe Lo: When I first started drinking wine, Australian Shiraz was one of the first kinds of wine I would look for in the supermarket. To me, it was pretty much the perfect wine—delicious, and usually not too expensive. Of course as time has gone by I’ve moved on to other things, and really have not enjoyed any Australian Shiraz for a very long time, opting instead for Syrah from New Zealand or the Languedoc or from of course, the Rhône. But to me this tasting showed that Shiraz still has plenty to offer for any wine lover, although admittedly these are all expensive wines and represent the best of Australian Shiraz. My favourite wines were Torbreck’s The Struie and Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz, which both immediately jumped out during the tasting. I loved the freshness in these wines, as opposed to the typical image of Aussie Shiraz being alcoholic and heavy. 當我一開始飲酒的時候,澳洲的 Shiraz的確是頭號選擇,對我來說這絕對是理想的酒─價廉物美。當然隨 著時間過去,我亦愛上了許多其他地區的酒,新西蘭、Languedoc、和Rhône。但在這次的品試中,證明 了 Shiraz擁有的潛質其實很多,況且我們品試的都是澳洲數一數二的酒款。我們的最愛酒款有 Torbreck’s

The Struie和Wynns Coonawarra Estate Micheal Shiraz,兩款都非常突出,清新可口。沒有了強烈的酒精 與強勁的酒體,與典型的澳洲Shiraz很不一樣。

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PANEL TASTING

049

Conclusion Many may disparage the style of Australian Shiraz due to its naturally alcoholic and highly concentrated nature, but the best Shirazs aren’t built with this in mind. Despite thriving in hot conditions, the best winemakers will craft their Shiraz with balance and acidity. Many wine lovers will also appreciate that most high-end Shiraz doesn’t try to replicate their French cousins or go for the biggest, ripest flavour. Simply put, Australian Shiraz is accessible and easy to love, although making it well isn’t easy. Our first place wine, Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz 2009, is relatively young, and already displays great promise and complexity. Most importantly however it was extremely balanced, and not at all over the top, and proved that Shiraz isn’t all McLaren Vale or Barossa. Our tasters treasured the elegance and subtlety of the Coonawarra terroir, although our second wine, Schild Estate Moorooroo Shiraz 2006, came from the traditional stronghold of Shiraz: Barossa Valley. This wine was very much a prototypical example of excellent Barossa Valley Shiraz, with hardly a step out of place. It was plush, attractive, and powerful with soft tannins and a great creamy complexity. For fans of the style, few can argue with such a textbook rendition of Australian Shiraz. Our third wine, Petaluma Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2008, was slightly different as it came from Adelaide Hills, a region with a rapidly rising reputation for fantastic Shiraz. The region is cooler than Barossa or Coonawarra, and the Shiraz here is zippier and lighter; the Petaluma displayed interesting terroir characteristics such as a certain smokiness to the aroma, and was ultimately more restrained than the other two wines. Still, as evidenced by the high scores across the board, these wines really revealed how producers are aiming to make more balanced wines that are less jammy. Each region has its own special quality, and the producers worked hard to emphasize the unique nature of the terroir over the alcohol and fruit. 許多關於澳洲Shiraz風格的劣評都是指出其酒精度與高度密集的酒體,但其實優秀的Shiraz並非如此。儘管環境有 多嚴峻,優秀的釀酒師都能夠釀出平衡而酸度良好的Shiraz。許多愛酒的人都十分欣賞高端Shiraz並不試著抄襲或 複制法國酒而勇於創立自己的風格,走著酒體豐厚而味感成熟的路線。而最簡單不過的是,澳洲的Shiraz容易入 口,也能夠令人輕易的愛上,但相反釀製好的Shiraz卻不是一件易事。 我們這次獲得最高分的酒款Wynns Coonawarra Estate Michael Shiraz 2009是一款相對較年輕,但卻已經能夠呈現 出偉大而複雜度良好的酒款。最重要的是它有著絕佳的平衡,證明Shiraz的世界遠不止McLaren Vale和Barossa, 我們的品酒團隊都相當欣賞這款酒的優雅和細緻度,表現出Coonawarra terroir的美好。第二名的酒款Schild Estate Moorooroo Shiraz 2006則來自一向統領Shiraz的地區Barossa Valley。這款酒可以說是Barossa Valley頂級葡 萄酒的最佳典範,它豐厚、吸引、而且強烈、單寧柔軟、亦擁有細緻的複雜度。對於喜歡這種風格的,很少能夠 抗拒這樣的一款Shiraz。 獲得第三名的酒款Petaluma Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2008有點不同,它來自Adelaide Hills,一個愈來愈有名的Shiraz 產地。這裡比Barossa或Coonawarra都要涼快,所以這裡出產的Shiraz口感亦會較為活潑和輕爽,這款Petaluma 呈現出有趣的terroir特性,例如一點煙燻般的香氣,亦比前兩款酒表現得更加拘束。 儘管如此,從這些評分當中我們都可以看到這些生產商都希望釀造更平衡的酒款,而不只是一味酒體豐厚為主。 每一個地區都有著其特性,每一個酒商都會努力地在酒中強調果香與酒精度以外的最要一環─terroir的獨特性。

事實上,這些來自阿根廷與法國的Malbec都有著一個共通點,就是她們很多都是來自單一葡萄園,這說明了許 多的阿根廷酒莊都接受並且實行了terroir的概念,而且在今次的三款單一葡萄園得獎酒中顯示出非一般的實力。

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The World of

Wines Every issue in The World of Wines we examine wineries around the world, exploring incredible bottles and the winemakers behind every successful brand. In this issue’s The World of Wines, we present you with the “Super Tuscan of Spain” - Wine made by Jean Leon. On the other side, we will lead you to the new star region of Spain Priorat. Let’s check out the most popular wineries there! 每一期《釀‧生活》的The World of Wines,我們都會為你走訪來自世 界各地的酒莊,探索每一瓶葡萄酒、每一位辛勤的釀酒師、每一個成功 品牌背後的故事。今期將為大家介紹「來自西班牙的Super Tuscan 」 ─Jean Leon的酒款。另外,又會親身帶大家到西班牙的超新星產酒區

Priorat,探訪幾所當地的星級酒莊。

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052

The World of

Wines

A Star for the Stars 名星之酒釀

English Text: Ian Wong // Translation: Eddie Chui

Over the past few decades, few grapes have proven themselves to be as versatile and revered as Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon — three varietals that have miraculously adapted to regions as diverse and far away as Tuscany in Italy, Coonawarra (and many other regions) in Australia, Napa Valley in California, and even Valle de Aconcagua in Chile, the home of Seña. 在過去數十年,沒有幾款葡萄品種能跟

Merlot、Chardonnay及Cabernet Sauvignon這三款 葡萄同樣被受追捧,而且能夠在很多不同的產酒區同 樣出色,可以適應相當不同的天氣及地埋環境,由意 大利的Tuscany,到澳洲的Coonawarra及其他地區、 加州的Napa Valley及名酒Seña的故鄉,智利的Valle

de Aconcagua。

Enquiry: Edrington Hong Kong Limited Tel: 2891 8086 // Web: www.edrington.com.hk

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053

The World of

Wines But in Spain, where some of the greatest wines in the world are also made, few consumers in Hong Kong are familiar with anything outside of Rioja or Ribera del Duoro. The indigenous grapes that the Spanish plant are surely complex and of premium quality, but admittedly it is hard to get consumers to recognize grapes like Monastrell or Verdejo. Jean Leon was a Spanish-born restauranteur who left his home country at the young age of 19 to make it big in America. It was the 50’s, and this young Spaniard traveled across Paris, the Atlantic Ocean, New York, and then the Mid-West until he finally reached Hollywood, where his new life began. He started working in a restaurant frequented by celebrities, and eventually joined James Dean in opening La Scala, now a Hollywood icon. And with such illustrious regulars like Marilyn Monroe, JF Kennedy, and Robert Wagner, Jean Leon surely needed something special, yet familiar to serve to his famous guests. And so began Jean Leon Pago, the first winery in Spain to plant Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay. At lunch in Hong Kong last month we met with Dan Kumler, Commercial Director of Torres, who now runs Jean Leon. The winemaker is Mireira Torres, who is part of the 5th generation of the Torres family, and each of the wines we tasted were single vineyard bottlings. First we had Jean Leon ‘Vinya Gigi’ Chardonnay 2011, which comes from a small 5 hectare clay vineyard. Touched with just a little bit of oak for 6 months while on the lees, it was well-rounded, balanced, and full of great ripe fruit and vanilla character. Then we had Jean Leon ‘Vinya Palau’ Merlot 2007, which comes from a 10 hectare vineyard of gravel and clay, which was delicious and complex. Jean Leon ‘Vinya Le Havre’ Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2006 came next, and it was a stunning blend of predominately Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Cabernet Franc to give some fruitiness and earthiness. This was full of ripe and sweet tannins, with beautiful dark fruit. Try these wines if you want to get an initial feel for Spanish interpretations of these international varietals. And then move on to the final two wines: Jean Leon ‘Vinya La Scala’ Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2001 and 2003, which represent the finest from this winery. This blend is only made in the best years, and is focused entirely on terroir and the quality of the grapes. These can age easily for 15-20 years, and will reward patience. Both these wines were just nearing their optimum drinking windows when we had them, and will surprise anyone scared away from the monumental price of a Super Tuscan. 但在西班牙,出現了不少偉大的葡萄酒,但大部分的香港酒迷只認識出產自

Rioja或Ribera del Duoro的酒釀,其他地區的可能不太認識。其實有不少西班 牙的原生葡萄品種是有能力釀造出複雜而高品質的葡萄酒,但是不得不承認消 費者可能還未能了解及記得一些如Monastrell或Verdejo葡萄品種。

Jean Leon是生於西班牙的著名餐飲界名人,於19歲便離開家鄉在美國景闖 出名堂。當時正值五十年代,他便經過巴黎,橫過大西洋到達紐約,再到中西 部直至抵達荷里活展開人生新的一頁。他在一家名人經常光顧的餐廳,之後跟

由於經常有焦點名人光顧,包括影星瑪麗蓮夢露、甘迺迪總統、名演員

Robert Wagner 等等, Jean Leon 需要一些特別而熟悉的葡萄酒給這些常 客。於是便開創了Jean Leon Pago,第一家在西班牙種植及釀造Cabernet

Sauvignon、Cabernet Franc及Chardonnay葡萄酒的酒莊。 在上月的午宴中,我們遇上營運Jean Leon的Torres集團代表Dan Kumler。 我們品嚐的是單一葡萄園的酒款,由現任釀酒師Mireira Torres負責,他亦是

Torres家族的第五代成員。 首先我們先品嚐Jean Leon ‘Vinya Gigi’ Chardonnay 2011,來自只有五公頃 的黏土葡萄園。在6個月的橡木桶跟酒渣一起陳年。她表現圓潤平衡,帶豐富 的成熟果香及呍呢哪香味。跟著的Jean Leon ‘Vinya Palau’ Merlot 2007,在 十公頃的黏土礫石葡萄園上,美味而複雜。 接著我Jean Leon ‘Vinya Le Havre’ Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2006是 款以Cabernet Sauvignon為主,加上少許Cabernet Franch的優秀酒款,帶 成熟而甜美的單寧,以美味的黑漿果作酒的主幹。如果你想感受西班牙如何演 繹這些國際化的葡萄品種,她們是很好的代表。而最後的兩款酒,Jean Leon

‘Vinya La Scala’ Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2001及2003,則是酒莊的 代作。她們都是只在被認為是最好的年份才釀造,以表現葡萄園的terroir為目 標,只以最好的葡萄釀造。她們可以陳年15至20年,想享用最好狀態的酒絕 對需要耐性。我們品嚐的時候,他們只是剛剛開始盛開,到達適飲期。如果你 對Super Tuscan的超高價格感到無奈,不妨發掘一下這些來自西班牙的國際 名星酒。

James Dean合作,開設了當地的地標之一,La Scala餐廳。

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DEEP IN THE SLATE 板岩之深處 English Text: Ian Wong // Translation: Joe Lo

In sun-tempered Priorat, a harsh and unyielding mountainous wine region just 120 kilometres to the southwest of Barcelona, allegiances are inked onto the parchment soil of the land like violet-tinted tattoos. 陽光和煦的Priorat,一列巍峨壯麗的山脈座立著,就在巴塞隆拿的120公里西南面,一片片紫色就像水墨畫般, 深深地印在羊皮紙般的山體上。

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055

One must always have something to believe in, be it the roughly hewn llicorella (a type of black slate unique to the region) that nurtures the mineral nature of the vines, the two main indigenous grapes Garnatxa and Cariñena (Grenache and Carignan), or even the politics of the country—the winemakers of the Priorat are as fiercely loyal to their expression of terroir as to their Catalan identity, and all around the Priorat, the Estelada (meaning starred flag) flew proudly: a saffron and blood orange call-to-arms inspired by the four red stripes of the Crown of Aragorn, and the star pattern found on the revolutionist flags of Cuba and Puerto Rico. Because nothing could ever survive here without such a revolutionary resolve, and those that have thrived have done so through their own perseverance and dedication. Remember that thirty years ago there simply was nothing in Priorat, and now the region’s wines are known and found all around the world.

人生存在世上,心底裡總懷著各自的信念,就好像深埋在 Priorat片片頁岩深 處的葡萄樹根,給予當地原生葡萄品種Garnatxa和Cariñena(Grenache和

Carignan)天然的礦物養份;又或者是關乎國家的政治理念─來自Priorat的 Winemakers always say that the more a vine struggles in a difficult climate,

釀酒師們都對自己土地的terroir無比忠貞,就如同對他們身為加泰隆尼亞人的

the deeper the roots will reach down in search of nutrients, and the greater

身份一樣地堅定。由番紅花和血橙的紅色與橙色、阿拉貢皇冠的直紋、加上如

the heights the eventual wine will achieve. In Priorat, where the vines can

古巴和波多黎各的革命旗幟中獨有的星形圖案構成的加泰隆尼亞獨立星旗就這

reach almost 20 meters into the llicorella in search of water, the roots

樣的驕傲地飛揚著在Priorat地區中。

permeate every layer of earth—like the winemakers and growers who still work predominately by hand on these rugged steep slopes, their efforts

在這片土地上,沒有革命般的決心是絕不可能成事的,在這裡能夠茁壯成長

translate into honest and true wines.

的,都只能靠著一雙手的實幹與堅持奉獻。還記得三十年前的Priorat甚麼也沒 有,今日的Priorat卻是全球知名的葡萄酒誕生地。

ESPAI PRIORAT 2013 This was the second edition of Espai Priorat, which roughly translates from

釀酒師常常說,一棵葡萄愈是經歷著困難,它的根就愈能深入地底找尋養份,

Catalan to mean “Space of Priorat”. It was initiated in 2011 by the DOQ

從而釀出更優秀的酒。在Priorat,這裡的葡萄樹根都能夠深入到地底20米的

Priorat to provide a quick immersion into the region’s cuisine and wine,

頁岩底層吸收水份,伸延著每一條根在這片土地之中。就好像釀酒師和葡萄農

with 36 of the region’s most exciting wineries participating. In 1990 when

在這樣粗糙而高低不平的山坡上以人手努力地工作著,只為釀造出真誠而實在

the Priorat as a resurgent wine region was in its infancy, there were only 9

的葡萄酒。

wineries. The most recent count in 2013 has the number of producers at 97, although there are many other grape growers who sell fruit to some of

這是Espai Priorat的第二個版本,亦可以粗略地譯作「Priorat的空間」。2011

the larger wineries.

年由 DOQ Priorat 創立,將當時 36 間最有趣的酒莊集中一起。在 1990 年當

Priorat 仍然處於萌芽階段的時候只有九間酒莊;而在 2013 年最近期的統計 During my time in Priorat I tried the stalwarts, the legendary wines that

中,酒莊的數目已經達到97間,而當中亦有許多大酒莊仍然從葡萄農手中購

forged the reputation of the region anew. These are wines like L’Ermita by

入葡萄作釀酒。

Alvaro Palacios, Clos Mogador by René Barbier, Clos Erasmus by Daphne Glorian, and Clos Martinet by Josep Lluís Pérez—of the five wineries that

筆者在 Priorat 時就見識了當地的中堅份子 ─ 一手令這個地區煥然一新

made Priorat synonymous with greatness, the only one not participating in

的傳奇酒莊,包括 Alvaro  Palacios 的 L’Ermita 、 René  Barbier 的 Clos

Espai Priorat 2013 was Clos de l’Obac by Carles Pastrana.

Mogador、Daphne Glorian的Clos Erasmus、及Josep Lluís Pérez的Clos Martine t。這五間酒莊可說是建立 Priorat 的靈魂,而當中沒有加入 Espai

It really is difficult to emphasize what these wines did for Priorat—before

Priorat 2013的就只有Carles Pastrana的Clos de l’Obac。

the arrival of these five pioneers, Priorat was a vast but stark landscape dotted with deserted wineries and vineyards. The few remaining old vines

要解釋這些酒到底對Priorat有甚麼具體的影響實在太困難,我只能說在這五位

languished in the scorching heat, and the forgotten terraces had slowly

先驅進駐Priorat之前,這裡只不過是一片遼闊的原野,點綴著零星的葡萄園與

eroded away from the harsh wind and climate for almost 50 years. Without

酒莊,當中仍然堅強地存活著的葡萄藤在火灼般的溫度中被強風和極端氣候折

the vision and tenacity of these five winemakers, many of the ambitious new

騰了超過五十年。若不是這五位擁有超乎常人的頑強鬥志與韌力,近年在這個

wineries that have formed in recent years wouldn’t have been able to rely on

地區中創立的酒莊,都沒有可能依賴著這個地區的名聲而生存。

the astounding reputation Priorat has abroad.

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Voyage

WINERIES

Most of the old vines only have 2 bunches of grapes each 大部份老樹都有兩串葡萄果實

Cellers Ripoll Sans - Cal Batllet

Cellers Ripoll Sans - Cal Batllet

Our first visit was to an old vineyard near the village of Torroja called

我們探訪的第一個古老葡萄園 Ronçavall 位於 Torroja 村旁,是一間小型的家

Ronçavall, where only 300 bottles are made per vintage by a small family-

族酒莊Cal Batllet所擁有,每年只會生產約300瓶葡萄酒,而當中都是一些隱

owned winery called Cal Batllet, which makes some unheralded but frankly

世、而又確實不凡的古老葡萄樹釀製的酒款。Marco Ripoll Sans是一位年輕

extraordinary old-vine-wines. Marco Ripoll Sans is the young winemaker

的釀酒師,亦是Cellers Ripoll Sans的莊主,亦守護著75年前曾祖父作為葡

and owner of Cellers Ripoll Sans, entrusted with nurturing the old vines that

萄農時種下的古老葡萄樹。1990年時他的父母決定離開當時售賣葡萄的合作

his great-grandfather once planted 75 years ago as a grower. In 1990 his

社,在1999年時正式推出他們的首個葡萄酒款Cal Batllet。

parents left the cooperative that they were selling their grapes to, and in 1999 they did their first vintage of Cal Batllet.

單是走在Ronçavall 中的Cariñena老樹藤葡萄園,就可以發現甚麼是生物多樣 性。每一層的梯田上都展示了不同的植物如野露荀、橄欖和杏仁樹,以及無數

Simply walking along the old Cariñena vines of Ronçavall showed what

的不同香料,這就證明了這個葡萄園並未使用化學噴劑(只有一點點用來預防

good biodiversity in a vineyard should look like. Each little terrace cut into

霉菌的硫磺),Marco又告訴我們:「我絕不會使用除草劑,因為這樣會將整

the mountain revealed either wild asparagus, olive and almond trees, or a

片土地置於死地。」他一直堅持有機運作的酒莊更在2009年的時候正式肯定

myriad of different herbs. It is clear that no chemicals were ever sprayed

及認證,他亦是最早提出「Vi di la Vila」分級制的一員,也就是在酒瓶上劃分

(except a bit of sulphur for the mildew), and Marco told us that, “I hate to

原產地,就好像勃艮第各村莊所做的一樣,實行於Priorat內12條村莊中。

see herbicides because to me it means the soil is dead.” His winery was certified organic in 2009, but they’ve actually been working the same way since their creation. He was also one of the early proponents of the ‘Vi de la Vila’ classification, which distinguishes the place of origin of the wine on the bottle—just like the village classification system of Burgundy. There are 12 such villages in Priorat.

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Marco Ripoll Sans in his vineyard Ronçavall Marco Ripoll Sans 在他的葡萄園Ronçavall

Cal Batllet Torroja ‘Vi de la Vila’ Ronçavall 2009

Cal Batllet Torroja ‘Vi de la Vila’ Ronçavall 2009

2009 was hot, but rain came at last and saved the vintage. The tannins are

2009年很熱,但最後仍然有一點點足以挽救該年份酒的雨水。單寧緊密

tight and fine, with savoury, herbal, and mineral characters on the palate.

良好,帶點鮮味和草本氣息,亦有礦物味道。細緻優雅,集中度佳。

Precise and elegant, with good concentration.

Cal Batllet Torroja ‘Vi de la Vila’ Ronçavall 2010

Cal Batllet Torroja ‘Vi de la Vila’ Ronçavall 2010

2010年九月時雨量充足,所以他們收成較晚,是一個新鮮的年份。比起

2010 was a fresh vintage with lots of rain in September, so they harvested

2009 年 , 2010 的 酒 香 氣 較 豐 富 , 也 更 新 鮮 優 雅 。 充 滿 活 力 , 帶 大 量 礦

late. This is a more fragrant wine than 2009; fresh and elegant. Lively, with

物,黑果和香料。

lots of minerality, black fruit, and herbs.

Cal Batllet Torroja ‘Vi de la Vila’ Ronçavall 2011

Cal Batllet Torroja ‘Vi de la Vila’ Ronçavall 2011

2011年很熱、溫暖而乾燥,但果實都新鮮而可人,不會過度成熟。礦物

2011 was hot, warm, and dry, but the fruit is fresh and lovely. Not overripe

味道集中,平衡絕佳而酸度良好。

at all. Mineral focused, and perfectly balanced with a good streak of acidity.

Costers

Terraces

In Priorat the best vineyards are grown on either terraces or

Terraces are a series of flat surfaces carved into the mountains, so

mountain slopes. But because the slopes retain very little

that more water is saved and mechanization is easier. Still, many

water, the vines are forced to go deep underground in search

locals have been upset at the way some foreign conglomerate

of water in the llicorella. Thus they are smaller and produce very

companies have carved wide terraces aggressively into the

low yields, but the concentration and minerality in the grapes

mountains, leading to recent regulations preventing excessive

is intensely rich.

terracing.

在Priorat,最好的葡萄園都座落於梯田或者山坡上,但由於山坡

Terrace就是由山坡開墾出來的梯田,而梯田保存水份的能力則比較

上能夠保留水份的能力有限,種植在上面的葡萄藤就只好將它的

高,機械化亦會更容易。可是,許多當地人卻對外國進駐的企業大

根部深入到頁岩深處的地底中, 同時產量亦會非常低,可是其集

規模開墾梯田卻甚為不滿,於是最近便衍生出一條防止過度開墾梯

中力和礦物度都會異常地豐富。

田的條例。

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Celler Mas Doix Distributor in Hong Kong 香港代理商 // 12 Bottles Company Ltd.

Regrafting Roots 重新嫁接的葡萄樹藤

We then met another young and energetic winemaker called Sandra Doix

我們又與另一位年輕有為的釀酒師見面─來自Celler

Mora of Celler Mas Doix, one of Priorat’s most successful estates. The

Doix

Mas

Doix的Sandra

winery was founded in 1998 after the Doix family and the Llagostera family

和Llagostera兩大家族合拼其葡萄園之後成立的,而其中Sandra更是一直是

combined their vineyards, although Sandra’s family has always made wines

Priorat釀酒的家族之一。

Mora,Priorat最成功的酒莊之一。這間酒莊在1998年成立,是由Doix

in Priorat. 她領著我們走過了她們那現代化的酒廠和兩片非常優質的葡萄園,而這兩

She brought us on a tour of her modest winery and two incredible vineyards,

個葡萄園也可以用 Priorat的陰和陽來表達。其中一片種滿 100年 Cariñena老

which in a way represented the yin and yang of Priorat. First there was a

樹的葡萄園位於山的高地處,就連接載我們的車也只能在百多米以下的峭

100 year-old Cariñena vineyard high up in the mountains, where on the

壁下停車。這裡生產著豐厚的酒,因為這片葡萄園面向北面,而且陽光稍

journey up our van was always mere inches away from dropping hundreds

為不那麼猛烈,所以涼風都能夠把良好的酸度帶給這裡的葡萄。然後我們

of meters down a cliff. It was the more masculine wine, although because

又去到山谷另一方向南,種植著 Garnatxa的葡萄園裡,這些酒都比較優雅

it faced the north and saw less sun, there was a cool acidity racing through

和柔軟,更者可稱為較女性化的酒款。這兩款酒都分別擁有純淨的口感,

the wine. Then, when we tried Garnatxa from a vineyard situated across the

但當它們都混釀成酒莊的旗艦酒款 Doix ‘Costers de Vonyes Velles’時就顯

valley facing south, it was elegant and soft (one could call it feminine). Both

得更加優秀了。

wines separately were pure and delicious, but they turned exceptional when blended into their flagship wine called Doix ‘Costers de Vonyes Velles’.

葡萄園 Mas Doix就正正座落於 Poboleda村向北,涼風都在山谷中吹來,把 這裡的溫度降低之餘,亦讓這裡的果實成熟期更長,葡萄酒的新鮮度亦相

As the Mas Doix vineyards are in the village of Poboleda near the north,

對提高。

a cool wind comes and lowers the temperature in the valley, allowing for longer ripening times and more freshness in the wine.

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059

Gratallops

Mas Doix Les Crestes 2011

Mas Doix Les Crestes 2011

Les Crestes is the introductory level wine for Mas Doix, but at this stage is

Les Crestes是 Mas Doix的入門級酒款,現階段已經適飲。有著紅果、香料

the most open. Fragrant with aromas of red fruits, herbs, and sweet spices

和像丁香的香草香氣。

like cloves. Mas Doix Doix ‘Costers de Vonyes Velles’ 2009 Mas Doix Doix ‘Costers de Vonyes Velles’ 2009

由 45%  Garnatxa 和 55%  Cariñena 老 葡 萄 樹 果 實 釀 造 , 來 自 陡 峻 的

Made from 45% Garnatxa and 55% Cariñena from old vines situated on the

「 costers」,酒體相當平衡,帶有集中的單寧與橡木,帶有辛辣和甜味,

steep “costers”. Exceptionally balanced with integrated tannins and oak.

但卻不會過於甜膩。帶有明顯的紫羅蘭和櫻桃香氣,亦有點薄荷、咖啡、

Tart and sweet but not heavy and cloying, there is a bright bouquet of

礦物和杏仁香。

violets and cherries, as well as notes of mint, coffee, minerals, and almonds. Mas Doix ‘1902’ 2006 Mas Doix ‘1902’ 2006

一款深暗而悠揚的酒,以 100% Cariñena老樹藤葡萄釀造,「 1912」就是

A dark and brooding wine with 100% Cariñena, ‘1902’ has just been

1912年種下的葡萄,卻在今年才剛推出。帶有經典的 Mas Doix薄荷香、

released this year and is made from very old vines—the oldest was first

朱古力和玉桂特性,也有著承柔的鮮味,有點像煙肉脂肪那種咸香。非常

planted in 1902. There is that classic Mas Doix mint, chocolate, and

獨特和複雜。

cinnamon character, but also a subtle savouriness that reminds of bacon fat. Very unique and complex.

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Alvaro Palacios Distributor in Hong Kong 香港代理商 // Links Concept Ltd.

Alvaro Palacios

To understand how modern Priorat came to be, one must first understand

要知道Priorat的現代化程度有多高,讓我們先了解Alvaro Palacios對世界葡萄

the fiery desire of Alvaro Palacios to stamp his own mark upon this world.

酒舞台的強烈慾望。他本人就像土地上的頁岩一樣,尖銳、堅強、粗線條、曬

In many ways he is like the llicorella itself—sharp, strong, and rugged—well

得一身古銅,而且目光熱情而銳利。

tanned and always bearing an intense, hard stare. 我們初見他的時候,他就正在叱喝著他的員工,確保所有程序無誤。作為

From the moment we met him he was barking out orders to his staff to

完美主義者的典範,他絕對不能接受任何絲毫錯失,就連他的酒莊外貌都

ensure everything was seamless. An evident perfectionist, he accepts no

是精緻而漂亮的,就好像從建築雜誌中看到的一樣;他的葡萄園也是毫無

faults in either his sleek winery, which looked straight out of an architecture

瑕疵的。

magazine, or his vineyards, which were simply immaculate. 理所當然地,可以想像得到 Alvaro的酒是甚麼風格:結實、深奧、集中而

Of course then, one can imagine the style of Alvaro’s wines. Brawny,

乾爽,他的酒雖然強烈但卻有著無比細緻的複雜度,縱使這樣優雅的複雜

enigmatic, concentrated, but clean, these are powerful wines of finesse

度價值亦相對提高。 L’Ermita 2012 是他的旗艦酒款,在推出時每瓶約售

and extraordinary complexity—although that complexity comes at a price.

800歐羅,成為全西班牙最貴的葡萄酒之一。

L’Ermita 2012, his flagship wine, will sell for around 800 euros per bottle when it is released, and is easily one of the most expensive wines in Spain.

Finca Dofí,最初稱為 Clos Dofí,是 Alvaro在 Priorat最先與其他釀酒先驅 一起釀製的酒款,在價格上遠追不上 L’Ermita,然且質素卻只差些少。與

Finca Dofí, which was originally called Clos Dofí, is actually the wine that

L’Ermita一樣、 FInca Dofí有 90%以上都是 Garnatxa─ Alvaro眼中 Priorat最

Alvaro first made in Priorat along with the other pioneers, and for our money

誘人的葡萄品種。

represents almost the quality that L’Ermita offers but for far less. Like L’Ermita, Finca Dofí is more than 90% composed of Garnatxa, a grape that

「 Garnatxa永遠都是最好的。」他笑咪咪地說著。「 Garnatxa和 Cariñena

Alvaro finds to be the most alluring in Priorat.

一直都在這困境中迄立著。」在日即下曬著灼熱的陽光、晚上吹著涼 風, L’Ermita和 Finca Dofi的葡萄園面向著東北方,正好限制了暴露在過份

“Garnatxa must always suffer to give you the best,” he said with a smile.

熾熱的溫度。他只使用了兩隻騾和以人手收成, 100%有機。

“Garnatxa and Cariñena have always suffered here.” Battered by the sun during the day and tempered by the cool nights, L’Ermita and his vineyards

兩款酒的產量都極少,而另外兩款他造的入門混釀酒 Camins del Priorat及

for Finca Dofí face north and east to limit their exposure to the harsh heat.

Les Terrasses都相當卓越。 Camins del Priorat大意為「 Priorat之道」,口

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L’Ermita

He uses two mules and hand harvests for these two wines, which are

感乾爽、清新而且直接。 Les Terrasses則是一款複雜而物超所值的酒。

100% organic. 「在西班牙,從來都只有 Rioja能稱上重要的酒區。」 Alvaro在餐桌旁咯咯

Both are produced in extremely limited quantities, although he makes two

地笑著說:「但現在,就是 Rioja加上 Priorat了。」

introductory blends called Camins del Priorat and Les Terrasses, which are also tremendous wines. Camins del Priorat means “Way to Priorat”, and is always clean, refreshing, and straightforward. But Les Terrasses is an immensely complex wine offering great value for money. “Traditionally in Spain only Rioja mattered,” said Alvaro with a satisfied grin as we dined together in his exceptional kitchen; “But now, it is Rioja and Priorat.”

Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses 2011

Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses 2011

Aromatic notes of chocolate and dark fruit, this is fresh and open with silky

有著朱古力與黑果香,清新、單寧柔軟,收結優雅。

tannins and an elegant finish. Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofí 2011 Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofí 2011

緊湊而美妙的酒體,帶紫羅蘭般的花香,單寧甜美,口感上亦帶朱古力、

Tight and restrained, but beautiful. Piercing violets, floral nose, sweet

礦物和紫羅蘭氣息。

tannins with notes of chocolate, minerals, and violets. Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita 2011 Alvaro Palacios L’Ermita 2011

明亮的紫羅蘭色調帶著檸檬與西柚般的香氣。單寧甜美,酒體純淨而集

Bright violet notes with lemon and grapefruit aromas. Sweet tannins; a pure

中。香味豐富而強烈,這款酒有著無比的集中力與結構度,更有著優雅的

and intense body. Aromatic and powerful, this wine has great concentration

礦物和來自涼爽氣候的酸度。

and structure, and one can feel the elegant minerality and the acidity from the cool climate.

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Mas Martinet Distributor in Hong Kong 香港代理商 // Summergate Fine Wines

Sara Perez

Symbolically, one could make the claim that Sara Pérez embodies everything

有人認為, Sara  Pérez 擁有一切現今 Priorat 的特質,她的反叛與獨立就

about contemporary Priorat. She is defiant and fiercely independent like

好像加泰隆尼亞的人民一樣,風度自信,而且熱情滿溢,一一表現在她的

the people of Catalonia, confident but statesmanlike like her Cariñena, and

Cariñena與Garnatxa酒裡。從小在父親Josep Lluís Pérez、Mas Martinet

passionate but thoughtful like her Garnatxa. Brought up under the tutelage

的創立人的耳濡目染下,她成為了繼承祖業的新一代年輕釀酒師,她的丈夫

of her father Josep Lluís Pérez, the founder of Mas Martinet, she is part of

René Barbier Jr現在也在Clos Mogador幫助她的父親。這些新一代的釀酒師

a blossoming generation of young winemakers succeeding their parents’

都跟他們的父母一樣,對這個地方有著無比的影響力,將有機耕作及生物動力

work. Like her husband René Barbier Jr, who is now assisting his father at

種植等技術帶到葡萄園,同時令每塊土地的風土都獲得重視。

Clos Mogador, these winemakers are proving to be just as influential as their parents, bringing in more organic or biodynamic approaches to viticulture, and increasing the focus on terroir wines.

Sara 在 Mas  Martinet 負 責 釀 造 的 最 新 酒 款 名 為 Els  Escurçons 和 Cami Pesseroles,另外她釀造了非常優秀的 Clos Martinet,酒莊的旗艦酒款。 她的 2012年 Clos Martinet將會全程於陶罐中發酵,絕不使用任何橡木桶或

Already, Sara has been responsible for the creations of at least two new

者硫化處理。 Sara解釋:「因為污染物的完問題,完全不使用硫化在橡木

cuvées at Mas Martinet called Els Escurçons and Cami Pesseroles, and she

桶的情況是相當困難的,但相反地換轉在陶罐中便可行了。」對比起 Clos

has quickly stamped her mark on the winery’s flagship wine: Clos Martinet.

Martinet 2009,使用陶罐的酒口感會比較活潑。我們都對這種現代化的傳

Her 2012 vintage of Clos Martinet is going to be fermented entirely under

統技術感到非常興奮。

ceramic amphora, without any oak influence or sulphur. Sara explained that, “Working without sulphur in barrel is very difficult due to contamination,

在 甫 下 車 的 一 瞬 , 她 那 種 滿 Garnatxa 的 葡 萄 園 Els  Escurçons 便 映 入 眼

but in amphora it is much easier.” Compared to Clos Martinet 2009, the

簾, Sara 轉身堅定地說著:「這裡的每一個景象都反映著我們的葡萄酒

amphora wine is more vibrant and exciting; we were thrilled with the sense

本身。」 Els Escurçons,一個位於海拔 600米高的葡萄園,俯瞰著整個山

of freedom from this reinvented classic.

谷,層層的梯田都疏落地散滿鮮艷欲滴的罌粟花與鮮紅的野花,這片土地 簡直美很連空氣也是甜的,身在香港恐怕永遠都不會感受得到。的確,這

As we stepped out of the car and saw her Garnatxa vineyard Els Escurçons,

裡的每一棵葡萄樹都滿滿地盛載著葡萄園的光芒。

Sara turned around and told us this short statement: “Every moment reflects a vision of the wine.” Els Escurçons, which at 600 meters above sea level clearly revealed the whole valley, with each terrace in the mountain

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covered with rows of scarlet poppies and flowers spread out sparsely in

Els Escurçons 2009

between—was beautiful. The air itself was sweet in the way that we in Hong

細緻柔滑的單寧。這彭酒有著非不般的質感與深度。有著紅果與紫羅蘭的

Kong can only ever dream of, and each vine expressed the radiant health

香味,更多的是白堊土壤般的礦物氣息。絕對的平衡、酸度悠長,非常優

of the vineyard.

雅。 Sara由 2000年開始已經著手進行有機種植,所以效果也是近幾個年份 才能看到。這是我整個旅程中最喜愛的酒。

Els Escurçons 2009 Fine grained, silky tannins. The wine has an ethereal texture with structure

Cami Pesseroles 2009

and depth. Although there are red fruits and violets, the focus here is much

帶泥土氣息、緊湊豐富的礦物,十分清新。帶有更多的深度與厚實的酒

more on the chalky minerality. Completely balanced with a long acidity and

體,單寧帶咸香。一股明確的酸度劃過,更顯這款酒的活力。

real elegance. Sara has been working with organic agriculture since 2000, so the effects are just being felt in the recent vintages. My favourite wine

Clos Martinet 2009

of the trip.

當我們品嚐這款酒的時候,我覺得這比Cami Pesseroles和Els Escurcons 更加緊閉和抑制,但當中的潛力卻是不容忽視的。清新帶花香,香氣被層層

Cami Pesseroles 2009

複雜的肌理中收起了,而口感也是純淨的。過幾年這款酒必定大有所為。

Earthy, mineral, and fresh with a dense texture. There is more depth and muscularity in this wine, although the tannins are like satin. A bright streak of acidity runs through giving the wine real energy and life. Clos Martinet 2009 When we tried this wine it was far more reticent and tightly wound up than the Cami Pesseroles and Els Escurçons, but one can easily see the power

Other Recommended Priorat Wineries Available in Hong Kong 其他香港代理的 Priorat推薦酒款: Ferrer Bobet // Sens Wine Cellar Ltd Gran Clos // WineHut Company Ltd Celler Vall Llach S.L. // WineHut Company Ltd Portal del Priorat // Kerry Wines Ltd

and finesse in this wine. Fresh and floral, the aromas are hiding underneath

Cims de Porrera // Watson’s Wine

layers of complexity, but the palate is pure and clean. In a few years this

Gratavinum // Cottage Vineyards Int. Ltd

wine will be stunning.

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Terroir Al Limit // Pro Wine Ltd

10/7/13 12:05 PM


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Cru Leader

Piper-Heidsieck Ned Goodwin MW 與Ned Goodwin MW 再度發掘Piper-Heidsieck English Text: Ian Wong Translation: Cheng Ting Hei Images: Alvin Luk

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Few things in life bring as much joy to the ears as the jubilant sound of

生活中沒有多少事,能及得上香檳帶給我們的喜悅;「噗」的一聲,木塞

a Champagne cork being loosened from its nest, followed quickly by

從瓶中鬆脫下來,閃耀的酒身和悅目的氣泡,迅即傾倒進長長的香檳杯

the rush and sparkle of the wine itself as it falls frothily into a flute. And

內,那種歡樂,無可媲美。然而,一次千載難逢的機會,給我們能在香港

in Hong Kong, there is a pretty decent chance that the bottle happens

品嚐 Piper-Heidsieck Brut 的特色,實在難得。 Piper-Heidsieck 是最古老

to feature the distinctive red label of Piper-Heidsieck Brut, one of the

的香檳酒廠之一,於 1785年成立。過去十年,它們在香港漸為人熟悉,愈

oldest Champagne houses first founded in 1785. Over the past decade

來愈見卓著;更剛剛與葡萄酒大師 Ned Goodwin MW 簽約,聘請他成為

Piper-Heidsieck has really been gaining prominence in our city, and

亞太區品牌大使。

Heidsieck they’ve just appointed Master of Wine Ned Goodwin to be their AsiaPacific Brand Ambassador.

上個月,我們在香港喜來登酒店的 Sky Lounge ,與 Ned 討論他和 Piper-

Heidsieck 的最新夥伴關係,其中最為需要的,是一堂酒窖幕後工作速成

We spoke with Ned last month at the Sky Lounge in Sheraton Hong

班。 Ned 承認:「在我成為 Piper-Heidsieck的品牌大使前,我根本不知道

Kong to discuss his new partnership with Piper-Heidsieck, which for

它在 10 年間的轉變如此巨大驚人,它的 Brut 是一款名副其實的 apero 風格

one thing required a crash course in the behind-the-scenes cellar work.

香檳,就如 Pew一樣! Piper-Heidsieck就是果香、結構及優雅的結合。」

“Piper-Heidsieck has changed dramatically over the past 10 years in

ways that I didn’t even know before I became their Brand Ambassador,”

由於該區氣溫升高,葡萄史無前例地成熟,果實更為豐郁和柔順,糖份

admits Ned. “The Brut is a real apero style Champagne that is like

亦更高。為了保持果味同時添加清爽的味道,酒廠 Chef de Cave Régis

‘Pew!’ Piper-Heidsieck is all about fruit, structure and finesse.”

Camus先生,優化了蘋果乳酸發酵,那是一個天然的細菌發酵過程,將青 蘋果和檸檬味的蘋果酸,轉化為奶油、圓潤和更柔順味道的乳酸。

With temperatures rising in the region, grape growers are experiencing riper fruit than ever to work with. This means that the fruit itself is more

地理上來說,香檳區是位於相當北的位置。以往的葡萄慣常不均勻地成

full-bodied and supple, with sugar levels also rising. To maintain the

熟,釀酒師不時為其高酸性而苦惱,所以會添加劑量和糖份,令香檳更為

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fruitiness and to add freshness to the taste, Régis Camus, the Chef de

平衡。但是基於全球氣候暖化,葡萄變得更成熟,讓如 Piper-Heidsieck

Cave of the winery, optimizes the best of malolactic fermentation, which

Rosé Sauvage NV等葡萄酒,具備更佳的平衡度。「 Sauvage」一字,表

is a natural bacterial process that converts malic acid (which tastes like

示該萄萄酒沒有任何添加劑量。

green apples and lemons) into lactic acid (a buttery, rounder, and more

Piper-H smooth taste).

Ned 解釋:「 Rosé Sauvage 絕對經歷了多種轉變。今天的它,在 Brut 基

酒上添加了 20-25% 的 Pinot Noir 。」這兩種成份幾乎佔了酒的 50% ,其

Geographically the Champagne region is quite high up north, and in the

Pinot Noir和珍藏酒的份量高得出奇。

past winemakers always struggled with the acidity in their wines as the

grapes used to have difficulty ripening evenly. Hence dosage, or sugar,

很多 rosé葡萄酒的玫瑰色調,都是由 saignée工序而來,亦即「 bleeding」

was added to give Champagne more balance. But with global warming,

的法語:將紅色的葡萄果皮陳留在酒內,讓果皮顏色滲進酒裡。再加上

wines like Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV can achieve great balance

Pinot Noir ,讓 Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage 的酒體更豐富,而且複雜

from the ripe grapes, with the word “sauvage” denoting a wine without

有深度。至於基酒,即是舊年份的珍藏酒,則讓香檳變得立體有特色。無

any dosage.

年份的香檳能有如此多的基酒,實在非常罕見,不過 Piper-Heidsieck 卻混

進了相當多的份量。

“The Rosé Sauvage has definitely gone through a lot of changes,” explained Ned. “Today, 20-25% of the blend is Pinot Noir, which is

而 得 出 來 的 結 果 , 就 是 P i p e r- H e i d s i e c k 葡 萄 酒 在 盲 品 時 的 表 現 非 常

added to the base wine of the Brut.” Together, these two components

好 。 例 如 在 我 們 的 2012 年 12 月 期 刊 , 我 們 總 共 品 嚐 了 42 無 年 份 香 檳 ,

comprise almost 50% of the wine, which is an incredible amount of

而 Piper-Heidsieck Brut 獲取了 92 分。考慮到參賽酒的質素,和 Piper-

both Pinot Noir and reserve wine.

Heidsieck 的 相 對 產 量 , 可 算 是 一 項 壯 舉 。 我 們 的 評 判 之 一 Andy Au ,

是 Alain Ducasse 的 米 芝 蓮 二 星 餐 廳 SPOON 的 助 理 侍 酒 師 , 對 它 讚 不

Many rosé wines get their rosy hue from the process of saignée, or

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絕口:「核果、烤麵包、礦物質、甜玉米和香料味豐富而濃郁,而且酒體

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‘bleeding’ in French, which means that red grape skins are left in the

So at your next dinner party when the corks are rolling along the floor

wine so that their skin colour can infuse. By adding in actual Pinot

and there are signals to the maître d’ for another bottle of bubbly, keep

Noir, Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage has greater body, complexity, and

faith with our judges and stick with Piper-Heidsieck.

depth. And base wine, which means older vintages kept in reserve, are

Heidsieck responsible for giving Champagne real dimension. It is extraordinarily

rare for non-vintage Champagne to receive a lot of base wine, but

活潑,餘韻悠長。」而在我們 2012 年 1 月期刊的 Rosé 香檳品評中, Piper-

Piper-Heidsieck blends in a generous amount into their wines.

Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV 更取得 93 分,成為冠軍。葡萄酒大師 Debra Meiburg 形容它為「士多啤梨和覆盆子的果味香氣豐富,還有陣陣酵母

As a result, Piper-Heidsieck champagnes generally do very well in blind

味,隨之而來的,是驚人的乾身餅乾味作收結。」

tastings. For example in our December 2012 issue we tasted 42 non-

vintage Champagnes and Piper-Heidsieck Brut came at 92 points.

所以下次晚宴派對時,完成了一瓶葡萄酒,叫 Maître d’ 來多一瓶香檳時,

Considering the quality of the competition, as well as the relative size

相信我們的評判,選擇 Piper-Heidsieck。

of Piper-Heidsieck’s production, it was quite a feat. Andy Au, Assistant Sommelier at 2-Star Michelin restaurant SPOON by Alain Ducasse,

was one of our judges that month, and praised its, “rich and intense aroma of stone fruit, toast, minerals, sweet corn, and spice,” while noting the “lively body” and “long length”. In our January 2012 issue for rosé Champagne, Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV came in 1st at 93 points. Debra Meiburg MW described it as having a, “fruity strawberry

Enquiry: Telford International Co Ltd Tel: 2722 5066 Web: www.telford.com.hk

and raspberry nose with yeasty hints…followed by a surprisingly dry finish with biscuit accents.”

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Touch of Gold

Pierre Lurton and Château d’Yquem 紙醉金迷

English Text & Images: Ian Wong // Translation: Eddie Chui

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Even if it is difficult to remember the exact flavours and aromatic

當我嚐過第一口 Château  d’Yquem 後,那時候的香味及層次到底是怎樣

notes of my first taste of Château d’Yquem, the precise sensation

已經未必懂得細詳細憶述,但那次的體會、這金色液體入口的剎那及在口

of the entry and aftertaste will always linger in my mind whenever

腔內的回味,實在是難以忘記。每當有人問起我何為偉大的葡萄美酒,我

someone asks me the question: “What is a great wine?”

都會想起這瓶「滴金」。

Because without a doubt, d’Yquem is a great wine—perhaps the

不容懷疑, d’Yquem 絕對是一瓶偉大的葡萄酒,是當今世上甜酒之最。

most revered sweet white in the world—and a winery in a class of

在波爾多的甜白酒分級中,她是獨一無二,在 Sauter nes 產區中頂級的

its own (in every sense of the word), as it is the only Premier Cru

Premier Cru Superieur Classé 當中的唯一一間酒莊。

Superieur Classé in Sauternes. 我們跟現任的Château d’Yquem酒莊總監Pierre Lurton一同品嚐著不同年份

We met with Pierre Lurton, Managing Director of not only Château

的d’Yquem。Pierre同時也是波爾多名莊Château Cheval Blanc的總監。我們

d’Yquem but also Château Cheval Blanc, to discuss the most

討論大家都注意到的2012年,因為d’Yquem決定不會釀造甜酒。

recent 2012 vintage, which garnered international attention after the Château decided not to bottle.

對 於 d ’ Yq u e m 的 決 定 , 鄰 近 的 酒 莊 都 很 擔 心 , 因 為 這 樣 有 可 能 影 響 他 們2012年酒的銷情。但對於Pierre來說,他認為不論對酒莊還是對

While this may seem surprising—and indeed, many surrounding

d’Yquem 來說都是最好的決定,因為最高的酒質才是王道。

estates were upset due to the potential implications of d’Yquem’s decision on their own sales—ultimately, Pierre insists that it is

2012 年的春天廣泛下雨,而在夏天受乾旱及霉菌的影響。整個地區的收

actually the “best solution for Sauternes and for d’Yquem as it

成減少很多,雖然 d’Yquem 的葡萄仍然有充足的糖份及酸度,對於 Pierre

shows the high quality and standards of d’Yquem.”

Lurton 來說,這仍然是不足夠的。

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Spring in 2012 featured extensive rain, which was followed over the summer by mildew and drought. Yields were down across the region, and though the grapes of d’Yquem had the sugar and acidity, for Pierre Lurton, that simply wasn’t enough. “To put only the concentration of sugar is not d’Yquem. d’Yquem is an icon. It’s a luxury brand. The taste of d’Yquem is not only the sugar. It is

「在 d’Yquem ,我們所追求的不單是糖份的濃度。 d’Yquem 是這產區的

the concentration of the complexity. We don’t want people to worry about

象徵,她是一個尊貴的品牌。我們不是純粹追求甜,濃厚當中要有層次,

d’Yquem. It’s not a very complicated wine. To put it simply, it is always

要展現複雜的味道。我們不想大家擔心 d’Yquem 的品質會否下滑,不希望

good. It is even good for aperitif when chilled and young.”

品質的落差會太大。我們希望的是每一年都要造好。就算是年青時享用的 也要美味,冰凍來喝作為餐前酒亦無不可。」

And in fact, it actually isn’t that uncommon for the Château to not produce a vintage. They’ve skipped vintages in 1910, 1915, 1930, 1951, 1964, 1972,

其實一直以來, Château  d’Yquem 也有在不理想的年份停產甜白酒。過

1974 and 1992, meaning that though skipping production is uncommon,

去曾經在 1910 、 1915 、 1930 、 1951 、 1964 、 1972 、 1974 及時 1992

there is historical precedence.

停產,因此這一年停產並不是怎樣一回事。

Cru joined Pierre and the generous French Wine Institute in Macau for

《 釀 . 生 活 》 之 後 參 與 了 Pierre 及 澳 門 French  W ine  Institute 舉 行 的

a dinner featuring Château d’Yquem 2008. We enjoyed it chilled like an

Château d’Yquem 2008 晚宴。我們在餐前與席間都享用這 2008 年的佳

aperitif, but also over our meal, and as expected it was a riveting wine.

釀。入口那豐富複雜的酒香,在蜜糖、橙花之外帶點辛香,而那收結集中

The first drop was already a complex blend of honey, orange blossoms,

而悠長,整個口腔都被美妙的 d’Yquem 保圍著。在世上實在難得找到如

and spices, although the endlessly enveloping finish is where d’Yquem

此令人滿足的葡萄美酒,甚至連接近的也沒幾款。就算在這次以後無法再

always impresses. No other wine is like it, and only a rare few can even

喝 d’Yquem ,我想我仍然會滿足、欣賞這金色的瓊漿玉液,不會忘懷。

come close—and if I never have d’Yquem again I’d probably even remain satisfied, having already enjoyed the touch of gold.

Cru Investments_d'Yquem.indd 3

Enquiry: DLA (Hong Kong) Ltd. // Tel: 3485 2673

3/7/13 12:44 PM


Cru Spirit

071

Colour 色澤 Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Translation: Ian Wong

From the first glance, the colour of a spirit can already tell you the strength of the whisky; darker is stronger, lighter is weaker. The bottle, like a window into a room, thus houses this marvelous spirit. But nothing really beats a neatly cut crystal decanter, which can light up a whole room and express the whisky more vividly. Only 1750 bottles of The Macallan M are produced in the world, and each one is numbered uniquely. When poured into the Laique Crystal Decanter, each drop of The Macallan M reveals distinguished notes of rich dried fruit, spices, citrus, and wood. With 16% new whisky in the blend and age in the finest of oak barrels, notes of cinnamon, green apple, ginger, raisin, vanilla, nutmeg, and other complex flavours. 色澤,是酒液展現其實力的第一個關口,而酒瓶,卻是展現出完美色澤的 一扇窗。一個切割利落的水晶酒瓶,更將完美的酒色表達得淋漓盡致。每 一瓶都在獨一無二的編號,全世界只有 1750瓶的 The Macallan M集完美酒 色與複雜味感於一身,以水晶大師 Laique設計的尊貴水晶酒瓶盛載,每一 滴酒都充滿著豐富的乾果、香料、柑橘與幽幽的木香。使用 16%新酒、特 別嚴選木桶陳釀,把所有玉桂、青蘋果、薑、提子乾、雲呢拿、肉豆蔻等 複雜味感一一發揮得淋漓盡致。

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2/7/13 2:55 PM


072

Cru Review

A Taste of New Zealand 嚐一口新西蘭

On the 22nd of May, Cru Magazine and Berry Brothers & Rudd,

5月22日,《釀‧生活》與英國最早成更立的葡萄酒及烈酒商Berry

Britain’s oldest wine and spirits merchant, organized an extensive

Brothers & Rudd一起,聯手舉辦了一場品酒會,品試來自新西蘭最卓越的

tasting of three of New Zealand’s most prominent wineries.

三個酒莊的酒款。

Berry Brothers & Rudd brought in Surveyor Thomson of Central

Berry  Brothers  &  Rudd帶來了來自Central  Otago的Surveyor

Otago, Isabel Estate of Marlborough, and Te Mata Estate of

Thomson、 Marlborough的 Isabel Estate、以及 Havelock Hills的 Te Mata

Havelock Hills to the wine bar Amo Eno in IFC, where sommeliers

Estate來到位於IFC的Amo Eno。當日城中不少品酒師及愛酒客都一起來到這

and members of the public from all over the city gathered to try out

裡,品嚐這12款新西蘭酒釀。當中兩位酒莊代表亦專程來到會場參與是次品

12 wines. Representatives from two of the estates also joined us,

酒會,P M Chan與David Hall-Jones為我們介紹Surveyor Thomson的酒;而

with P M Chan and David Hall-Jones talking us through the wines

Mike 與Robyn Tiller則代表Isabel Estate。

of Surveyor Thomson, and Mike and Robyn Tiller discussing their project at Isabel Estate.

Surveyor Thomson

Surveyor Thomson

原上14公頃的土地上。這些葡萄園所在的位置都顯示了每一個葡萄園區都有

The vines at Surveyor Thomson were first planted in 2000 on 14

著各自獨特的terroir,能夠釀造出非常多樣化的Central Otago Pinot Noir。

hectares of uniquely glacial terraces in the mountains near Lake

每一款酒莊酒都是單一葡萄園酒款,而且所有可持續種植都是100%有機的。

來自Surveyor Thomson的葡萄自2000年起開始種植於Dunstan湖旁的山區冰

Dunstan. The position of these vineyards meant that every single one has a markedly different terroir, presenting a very diverse image

釀酒師Dean Shaw自2003年起已經開始在酒莊中工作,直至今天仍然努力釀

of Central Otago Pinot Noir. Every single one of the winery’s wines

造著優秀的酒款。曾於勃艮第擔任釀酒師,Dean對Pinot Noir可謂情有獨鍾,

is a single vineyard wine, and the winery practices sustainable

亦喜愛採用勃艮第的「不干預」方式作為釀酒方法。我們分別品嚐了Explorer

viticulture and is 100% organic.

Pinot Noir 2011及Pinot Noir Single Vineyard 2010,兩款都有著絕佳的質感 與集中力。

Winemaker Dean Shaw has been working with the winery since 2003, and continues to make every single vintage today. As an

Isabel Estate

experienced winemaker who worked in Burgundy, Dean loves Pinot

Isabel Estate是Marlbourough其中一間最大的家族酒莊,擁有區內一些最古

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Cru Review

Noir and has a very “hands-off” approach to winemaking. We tasted

老的葡萄園。Mike與Robyn和他們的四名兒女全在酒莊中工作,以榮耀當初

their Explorer Pinot Noir 2011, and Pinot Noir Single Vineyard 2010,

鼓勵Mike投身酒界的母親Isabel Jean Pearson。或許有人會認為這酒莊規模

which both have great texture and concentration.

也很大,但其實由葡萄種植到裝瓶所有工序,都是家族全權控制的。

Isabel Estate

葡萄的品質在這所現代酒莊所釀製的酒中表露無遺,的他們使用的是最好

Isabel Estate is one of the largest family owned wineries in

的技術來生產乾淨而又容易入口的酒。 Mike 和 Robyn 在當日便帶來了五款

Marlborough, and own some of the oldest vineyards in the region.

酒:Pinot Noir 2010、Chardonnay 2009、Sauvignon Blanc 2011、Pinot

Mike, Robyn, and their four children all work on the winery, which is

Gris 2012及Dry Riesling 2008。

dedicated to Mike’s mother Isabel Jean Pearson, who encouraged her son to join the industry. It may be large, but from grape to bottle this winery is family run.

Te Mata Estate Te Mata Estate雖然在1896年經已成立,然而在1989年之後,由新莊主打理 的酒莊也步入了現代化,亦看到葡萄園亦擁有無限的潛力。酒莊的歷史性建���

Good fruit quality shows through the wines in this modern winery,

物與釀酒設備都經過翻新,這位於Hawky’s Bay的酒莊釀造著前所未有的可持

which utilizes the best technology to produce clean and accessible

續發展葡萄酒。

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wines. Mike and Robyn were serving five wines: Pinot Noir 2010,

他們的葡萄品種選擇相當闊,最為人熟悉的是他們的 Chardonnay 、 Syrah

Chardonnay 2009, Sauvignon Blanc 2011, Pinot Gris 2012, and Dry

和波爾多混釀品種。在 Amo Eno ,我們品嚐了 Cabernet/Merlot 混釀、以

Riesling 2008.

及一款有趣的 Viognier ,名為 Zara 的酒款,以及最經典的 Chardonnay 和

Sauvignon Blanc。 Te Mata Estate Though Te Mata Estate was founded in 1896, the modern winery as we know it began in 1989 after new owners saw great potential in the vineyards. The historical estate and its winemaking equipment were all revamped, and the Hawke’s Bay winery has been making sustainable wines ever since. They’ve focused on a wide selection of grape varieties, and are known particularly for their Chardonnay, Syrah, and Bordeauxstyled blends. In Amo Eno, we tried Cabernet/Merlot blends, as well as an interesting Viognier called Zara, and their classic Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

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075

Cru Review

Great Wines of Bordeaux

After last year’s wildly successful ‘Great Wines of Italy’ tasting,

what does “a fortune” really mean? Still, a shout-out to Château

James Suckling, the famed international wine critic, launched the

Carignan Prima, which is attractively priced at around 200-300HKD

first ever ‘Great Wines of Bordeaux’ event with Hong Kong Tatler.

but can yet compete with the best.

Aiming to showcase the best of Bordeaux, he brought 45 of the region’s most prestigious estates, including almost all the classifiedgrowths. Such illustrious names like Château Mouton Rothschild

經過去年「 Great Wines of Italy 」品酒會的空前成功,著名國際酒評家

and Château Haut-Brion had stands there, although of course they

James Suckling 在香港與 Hong Kong Tatler 舉行了一場「 Great Wines

could only pour their second label wines due to the demand and

of  Bordeaux 」品酒會,展示來自波爾多的最佳酒款,帶來了 45 間區內

popularity of the event.

最享負盛名的酒莊,包括所有分級制中的名莊酒,好像 Château Mouton

Rothschild 和 Château  Haut-Brion 等,但礙於酒會人流和需求的關係, ‘Great Wines of Bordeaux’ drew large crowds to Four Seasons

它們都只能在酒會上供應副牌酒。

Hotel, and the venue was bustling with activity. We managed to try all of our favourites (which are “affordable” by Bordeaux standards

「 Great Wines of Bordeaux 」把人群都帶到了四季酒店,會場上人頭湧

at 800HKD or less on average) such as Château Smith-Haut Lafitte

湧,我們品嚐了一些「價廉物美」的波爾多酒款,平均港幣 800 元或以下

and Château Pontet-Canet, while enjoying the rare delight like

的酒,例如 Château Smith-Haut Lafitte 和 Château Pontet-Canet ,以

Château La Fleur-Pétrus’s glorious 2009 and 2010 vintages.

及罕有的 2009 與 2010 年份 Château La Fleur-Pétrus 。

Unfortunately there weren’t too many white wines, but the reds on

很可惜,當日並沒有太多白酒,但當中的紅酒都陳年得相當不錯,尤其

offer were surprisingly aged, and there was a fantastic selection of

是 2004 、 2005 和 2006 ,這些年份都已達適飲期。當日所有酒款亦是由

2003’s, 2005’s, and 2006’s, which are all drinking very well. All the

James  Suckling 評為 90 分以上的優質酒,他亦提到「好消息就是,你不

wines selected were rated 90 points or above from James Suckling,

用再花很多錢來找一瓶優質的波爾多了」。但回頭一看,每一瓶這裡的酒

and he stated that “The good news is that you don’t have to spend

標價都起碼達到港幣 1000 至 4000 元不等,那麼問題就是究竟「很多錢」

a fortune any more to find a beautiful bottle of Bordeaux”. But

的定義是什麼!不過其實,一瓶價值港幣二三百元的 Château  Carignan

considering almost every wine there cost at least 1,000-4,000 HKD,

Prima 也能夠與之匹敵的。

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076

Cru Review

Consider the Nähe Nähe帶來的驚喜

Being a wine lover in Hong Kong is truly a mixed blessing. From one

在香港,愛酒的人真的很有福。其中一點就是,我們這個小小的城市幾乎甚

point of view, our tiny city has almost every kind of wine imaginable.

麼酒款都可以找到,想喝來自西西里島的Frappato ?沒有問題,第二天你便

Want a Sicilian Frappato? You could be uncorking it by the next day.

可以輕鬆地享受得到。

But what of the hidden gems that await our discovery? These are wines

但究竟有沒有甚麼酒仍然未被發掘呢?來自Felseneck葡萄園,這片

like Kruger Rumpf’s ethereal Spätburgunders, or Schäfer-Fröhlich’s

德國土地上未被發掘的寶藏的酒款:Keuger  Rumpf如空氣般飄逸的

delightful Rieslings from the vineyard of Felseneck, one of the most

Spätburgunders ,又或者Schäfer-Fröhlich 的Riesling 佳釀。這些酒都是來

treasured terroirs in Germany. Both come from the relatively overlooked

自充滿火山土壤的 Nähe 地區,這裡所出產的酒款都會帶有一股濃重的礦物

Nähe region, where volcanic soils emphasize a stark minerality in the

味道,即使是一向在著名Mosel 和Rheingau 地區以果味為主導的Riesling 與

wines over the fruit-focused Rieslings and Spätburgunders (Pinot Noir)

Spätburgunders(Pinot Noir)亦如是。

of the more famous Mosel or Rheingau. 當然作為消費者的我們都知道,這裡有太多的好酒,總是不斷地有新的酒款

Of course it may be better for consumers in the know, as invariably

推出市場,但像這樣的好酒當然要分享給大家了。就以紐約和倫敦為例,要

more will be available for us. But wines as good as these should be

尋找一瓶 Schäfer-Fröhlich 出品的 Spätlese  Riesling 幾乎是一件不可能的

shared all across the city, not kept as secrets—in New York or London

事,因為這些罕有的優秀酒款一推出市面總會立刻售清光。

for example, it is honestly almost impossible to pick up the Spätlese Riesling of Schäfer-Fröhlich, for such is the demand of this rare wine

Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines是香港一間由Martin Palmer以他父親

that they sell out quickly after release.

命名的酒商。Martin 只會由他最愛的家鄉Nähe 地區進口葡萄酒,而且所有代 理酒款的釀酒師都是他的鄰居呢。

Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines is a one-man operation in Hong Kong run by Martin Palmer, who named his company after his father.

在九龍塘Jasmine 中菜餐廳吃著點心,品嚐著Martin 帶來的最新酒款,每一

Martin imports wines from only wineries in the Nähe region where he

款他帶來的酒款都是來自Erste Lage 葡萄園,亦可謂「列級」的葡萄園,因

hails from, and all his winemakers are basically his neighbours.

為這裡的酒都被讚美為Grosses Gewäch絕別,也就是Grand Cru(列級) 的質素。

Over dim sum at Jasmine in Kowloon Tong we met with Martin for a tasting of his most recent arrivals. Every single one of his wines is from an Erste

若果要挑選一款最愛的酒,我相信會選Weingut Ratzenberger Wolfshöle

Lage vineyard, which roughly translates to “First Growth”, and many are of

1. Lage Riesling “GG” 2006這款,有著蜜糖般、如花的香氣,又帶點點的

Grosses Gewäch quality, which can be said to be “Grand Cru”.

礦物氣息;Schäfer-Fröhlich’s Felseneck 1. Lage Riesling Spätlese 2011

If we were forced to pick favourites we would have to note Weingut

酒款。最後,Spätburgunder of Kruger Rumpf一款簡稱為「M」的酒,

Ratzenberger Wolfshöle 1. Lage Riesling “GG” 2006, a honeyed and

清新、礦物味、而且竟帶點沙甸魚的咸香—是Chambolle-Musigny 種了在

floral Riesling with an immensely chalky minerality. Schäfer-Fröhlich’s

Etna火山嗎?

亦是一款必試的酒款,這是一款最能表現off-dry Riesling、而且相當平衡的

Felseneck 1. Lage Riesling Spätlese 2011 is a must-try—forget about finding an off-dry Riesling this well balanced anywhere else. Lastly, look for the unique Spätburgunder of Kruger Rumpf called simply “M”. Fresh, bursting with minerals, and even slightly saline—think

Enquiry: Thomas Palmer Fine German Wines (H.K.) Limited Tel: 9137 1296 Web: www.finegermanwines.hk

Chambolle-Musigny grown on Mount Etna.

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077

Cru Review

Addictive Bourgogne Tasting - King’s Wine Cellar 勃艮第品酒會- 帝醇酒莊

In France, the region of Burgundy has long been known for its

在法國,勃艮第地區一直以其多樣化的地形與葡萄園而聞名。舉世聞名的列

diverse sub-regions and vineyards. Rare Grand Crus dot the

級田星羅棋佈地散落在這片土地上,就好像Echezeaux和Clos de Vougeot這

landscape, and names such as Echezeaux and Clos de Vougeot are

些尊貴的田地。

often held in reverence. 位於尖沙咀嘉拿芬道的本地酒商帝醇酒莊於今年度的5月25日為各

Last month on the 25th of May, the local wine shop King’s Wine Cellar in

界 愛 酒 之 人 舉 行 了 一 場 「 Addictive  Bourgogne  Tasting 」 品 酒 會 。

Tsim Sha Tsui’s Carnavon Road hosted the ‘Addictive Bourgogne Tasting’

《釀‧生活》也參與了是次的盛薈,品嚐一下大會供應的酒款如

for customers and enthusiasts. Cru attended this fantastic event which

Mâconnais 的 Vignerons de Mancey 、 Pouilly Fuisse 的 Domaine Gilles

focused on the wines of the Vignerons de Mancey in the Mâconnais,

Morat、Chambolle-Musigny的Georges Lignier et Fils、Vosne-Romanée的

Domaine Gilles Morat in Pouilly Fuisse, Domaine Georges Lignier et Fils

Domaine Michel Noellat、Volnay的Domaine Bitouzet Prieur、以及Buit St.

in Chambolle-Musigny, Domaine Michel Noellat in Vosne-Romanée,

Georges的Domaine Jean Chauvenet。

Domaine Bitouzet Prieur in Volnay, and Domaine Jean Chauvenet in Nuits St. Georges.

當日參加者可以透過品試勃艮第兩款最主要的葡萄品種Pinot  Noir與

Chardonnay,發現勃艮第風土的奇妙,土地的差異所造成的風格與味道。 Participants were invited to try a variety wines made of course from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the two main grapes grown in Burgundy, showing

很意外,當日來自 Volnay 的 Bitouzet  Prieur 所釀製的 Meursault 相當優

how one region can produce a wide range of flavours and characteristics

秀,Georges Lignier et Fils亦是Chambolle-Musigny地區中拚過了艱難的

merely by the differences in soil.

2007年,而且做得相當不錯的一間酒莊。而眾酒款中最令人印象深刻的絕對 是來自Vosne-Romanée一級田的Les Bousselots,完全展現了2006年份未被

It was a pleasant surprise for us to see a great Meursault from Bitouzet

揭露的美態。2006年的紅酒比起2009與2010兩個名氣較大的年份便宜,而

Prieur, a fantastic Volnay producer. Georges Lignier et Fils also makes a

且現在更是它最芳香、最適飲的時期。

very accessible Chambolle-Musigny from the difficult 2007 year and it was great to try it there. The most impressive wines were the Vosne-Romanée

Enquiry:

1er Cru Les Beaux-Monts 2006 from Michel Noellat, which is one of our favourite vineyards in Burgundy. Jean Chauvenet’s Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots was also a great showing from 2006, which is most definitely an underrated vintage. The red wines from 2006 are less expensive than the universally praised 2009 and 2010 vintages, but are more open and fragrant right now.

Cru Review_King's cellar.indd 1

King’s Wine Cellar 帝醇酒莊 Tel 電話: 2369 5561 Email 電郵: Wilson@kingswine.hk

Old Address舊店地址: (Until 28th Jun //營業至6月28日) G/F Shop D, No. 45-47 Carnarvon Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon 九龍尖沙咀嘉拿芬道45-47號地下D舖 New Address新店地址: (From 20th Jul //將於7月20日開幕) No.8 Hoi Kwong Street, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong 香港鰂魚涌海光街8號

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Cru Review

Midea Expands into Wine Industry 葡葡酒全產業鏈

With Midea Holding Company Limited, one of China’s largest manufacturers of electronic appliances, as one of the major shareholders of Milon Wine Company Limited, expansion will be fast, and the future is bright for a company with such extensive backing.

葡萄酒在香港、以致國內的風行程度可謂一時無兩。今時今日的葡萄酒行 業不但提供銷售和資詢,而且更愈來愈有規模,集多功能於一身。日前廣 東美隆堡酒業有限公司旗下的美隆堡國際宣佈正式併購匯菱洋酒有限分 司,並舉行了一場盛大的開幕酒會。新公司將以美隆堡酒業(香港)有限

The growing popularity of wine in Hong Kong is astounding, and

分司為名,為葡萄酒業中帶來最新集生產、貿易、代理投資葡萄酒期貨、

today wine importers in Hong Kong seek not only to do wholesale or

葡萄酒教育及文化傳播為一體的頂級酒業品牌。

retail, but also to address all elements of wine. Recently Milon Wine International Limited, a subsidiary of Milon Wine Company Limited

美隆堡酒業擁有豐富的業界經驗,而且作為廣東美隆堡酒業有限公司的全

announced a merger with Sinolink Fine Wines Limited, calling the

資子公司,主要股東為中國最大的家電製造商之一— 美的控股公司,股

new company Milon Wine (Hong Kong) Company Limited. On

東背景實力雄厚,資源優勢更優,絕對是專業及信心的酒業平台。

the 31st of May they celebrated this merger at a grand opening, which featured many of the wines in their new portfolio. The newly form Milon Wine will manage vineyard management in Ningxia,

More Information:

distribution, investment wine broking, and education, and all the

Milon Wine (Hong Kong) Limited. 美隆堡(香港)酒業有限公司

experienced staff from Sinolink Fine Wines will continue to work in

Tel: 2408 3090 // Email: info.hk@milonwine.com.hk

this new company.

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Cru Review

Vignobles Malartic Château Malartic Lagraviere Last month on one of the few beautiful days before the onslaught of the summer monsoon season, Cru Magazine joined a group of Hong Kong’s wine media for a grand lunch at Pierre in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. We gathered to taste the wines of Vignobles Malartic, an umbrella of three estates which includes the original Grand Cru Classé Château Malartic-Lagravière in Pessac-Leognan, their Argentine property Bodegas DiamAndes, and lastly Château Gazin Rocquencourt, an estate also in Pessac-Leognan that lies almost directly opposite Domaine de Chevalier. Jean-Jacques Bonnie, the Commercial and Technical Managing Director of Vignobles Malartic, came along for the trip, and focused on not only educating the press and trade about the wines, but also about the appeal and viticulture behind the estate. 上月,一個風光明媚的一天,《釀‧生活》參加了一於文華東方酒店Pierre中舉辦的傳媒午宴。 我們當日聚集一起品嚐了 Vignobles  Malartic 的酒款,它的三個酒莊分別為位於 Pessac-

Leognan 的列級酒莊Château  Malartic-Lagravière 、阿根廷的Bodegas  Diam  Andes 和 Château Gazin Rocquencourt,一個同樣位於Passac-Leognan、正正座落於Domaine de Chevalier對面的酒莊。 Vignobles Marlartic的傳訊與技術管理總監,Jean-Jacques Bonnie亦隨團來到這裡,不只 是為了教授葡萄酒的知識予本地的傳媒,亦揭示了酒莊背後的種植理念。

Lucaris Master of Wine Seminar – Macau Lucaris澳門葡萄酒大師班

Asia’s premier crystal wine glass company Lucaris launched the first of their six “LUCARIS Master of Wine Seminars” on the 24th of May at the Galaxy Macau Resort with Jeannie Cho Lee MW. Lucaris have just introduced their “Grand Cru” series of wine glasses aimed at enhancing the aromas and flavours of the best wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux. These six seminars will take place in Thailand, Shanghai, Macau, Singapore, and Beijing, with guest appearances by the aforementioned Jeannie Cho Lee MW, Debra Meiburg MW, and Ned Goodwin MW. Having such prestigious speakers will surely help sommeliers and wine lovers understand not only how a good wine is wasted without a good glass, but also how well the Lucaris brand of wine glasses delivers. Already in Hong Kong, Lucaris glasses are found in such five-star establishments like The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong, and The Langham Hong Kong. 亞洲尊貴水晶酒杯品牌Lucaris 於5 月24 日於澳門銀河™酒店渡假城舉行了共六場的「Lucaris 葡萄酒大師班」,由葡萄酒大師Jeannie Cho Lee MW 主持,介紹他們的「Grand Cru 」系 列酒杯,能夠為勃艮第與波爾多酒款帶出更高層次香氣與味道的酒杯系列。 這一共六場的研討會將於泰國、上海、澳門、新加坡和北京,由Jeannie Cho Lee MW為主持,並由Debra Meiburg MW及Ned Godwin MW為客席講解。 擁有這麼強大的講師陣容自然會令在場的品酒師及愛酒客明白到,好酒沒有好杯來盛載實在是太浪費了,而 Lucaris 品牌的酒杯系列也做得恰如其分。在香 港,Lucaris 已經在很多五星級酒店如麗斯卡爾頓酒店、香港海景嘉福酒店和香港朗廷酒店中用到。

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The

CruLifestyle As the fashion capitals of the world change and evolve rapidly with different trends and idols, we have to adapt quickly. At Cru Lifestyle, we search for the latest ideas around the world for colourful restaurants and cuisines, bright fashions and playthings, and elegant hotels. In this issue we will introduce you the annually Hong Kong Restaurant Week 2013. Afterward, we will bring you to the five-star Island Shangri-la Hotel in Hong Kong, and the Wynns Macau, experience an exetreme luxury.

作為國際級的時尚之都,瞬息萬變的香港每一日都會產生著不同的人和事。在The Cru Lifestyle這裡,我們每一期都會為大家送上多姿多彩的餐廳美食資訊、 時尚 玩物、以及世界各地的一級酒店介紹。今期將為大家帶來最新的美食資訊— 一年一度的香港餐廳週。亦會分別帶大家走到充滿歐洲風味的港島香格里拉酒店與 澳門的永利酒店,體驗極致的奢華。

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Dining Life

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Restaurant Week Returns for Summer 香港餐廳週

2013 k

This summer Hong Kong’s beloved Restaurant Week returns, presented once again by DiningCity and American Express. More than 70 restaurants have registered this time, and the event will last from the 5th to the 11th of August. Restaurant Week’s concept remains the same as last time, with participating restaurants offering specially designed fixed price menus. This allows adventurous diners to try that new Spanish place they’ve always wanted to go to at a discount, or perhaps learn about a secret new taco project in Kowloon. There will be three pricing categories: Category A (lunch HK$248 / dinner HK$438), Category B (lunch HK$158 / dinner HK$328), Category C (lunch HK$98 / dinner HK$258), although some restaurants have opted to introduce their own unique menus such as WHISK. Reservations will be available online via the special booking website www.restaurantweek.hk. Lastly, for every single transaction made using an American Express Card, American Express will donate HK $10 in support of Oxfam Hong Kong’s poverty alleviation work. 今個夏日,香港餐廳週又兩乘勝追擊,由DiningCity與美國萬通合辦,今年總共有超過70間餐廳參與,在8月5至11日其間帶來美酒 與佳餚。一如以往,香港餐廳週其間,參與活動的餐廳將會為活動度身訂造一套定價餐單,讓愛品試新奇美食的你能夠以優惠價品嚐 最新的西班牙菜、又或者任何最新設計的廚師餐單。 所有餐廳都會依照餐單價錢分為三大類:餐廳類別A(午餐 港幣$248/晚餐 港幣$438);餐廳類別B(午餐 港幣$158/晚餐 港幣

$328);餐廳類別C(午餐 港幣 $98/晚餐 港幣$258)。而當中有些個別餐廳如WHISK更會提供特別餐單,如需訂座可瀏覽以下 網址www.restaurantweek.hk 最後,所有經由美國運通信用卡的交易,美國運通都會捐出港幣$10,支持樂施會的扶貧工作。

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Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Restaurant & Bar stretches across more than 3,000 square feet in some of the most coveted land in the city. The contemporary European restaurant is nestled in The Landmark, and can immediately brighten up your day with its playful interior design that looks like a Mondrian mural—or a flattened Rubrik cube. Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Restaurant & Bar 佔地超過 3,000 呎,位於城中炙手 可熱的中環置地廣場,裝潢設計充滿玩 味,令人一看難忘。 Butter Poached Lobster and Sea Bass

Pan-Fried US Prime Beef Tenderloin

牛油煮龍蝦及海鱸魚

香煎美國牛柳

Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Restaurant & Bar is led by Head Chef Giggs Lo, an epicurean veteran who has worked in the Ritz-Carlton in Washington D.C., Robuchon A Galera Macau, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel Hong Kong, and L’ATELIER de Joel Robuchon Hong Kong. Try some of his signature dishes like Butter Poached Lobster and Sea Bass, or Pan-Fried US Prime Beef Tenderloin. Or join your friends and family at the afternoon tea set, where luxury is a given. Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Restaurant & Bar由總廚Giggs Lo主理,爸這位經驗老到的美食主義者曾 經在美國華盛頓州的麗斯卡爾頓酒店、澳門的Robuchon A Galera、香港置地文華東方酒店、以及香港

L’ATELIER de Joël Robuchon中工作。主理名菜包括牛油煮龍蝦及海鱸魚、香煎美國牛柳,除此之外,

Address 地址: 4/F, Harvey Nichols, The Landmark, 1 6   D e s   Vo e u x   R o a d   C e n t r a l , Central, H.K. 香港中環德輔道中16號置地廣場4樓 Harvey Nichols Tel 電話: 3695 3389

嚐一嚐這裡的下午茶套餐亦是相當不錯的選擇。

Website 網址: www.landmark.hk

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Moulded into creation by Charles Allem of CAD International, WHISK is an open dining environment that is calming like a Japanese garden. Hanging pale orbs dance overhead the tables, mimicking the movement of floating. Stone tables and wood wall panels also aid in the holistic atmosphere. 由 CAD International的Charles Allem構 思, WHISK 是元個令你如置身於日式庭 院中的用餐環境。餐廳天花懸掛著一個個 玻璃小球,石造的餐桌、以及木製的牆壁 都令這裡的環境更有味道。

Scotland dish 蘇格蘭

Chef de Cuisine Bjoern Alexander Panek brings contemporary European fare into WHISK with finesse and elegance being the key words. For Restaurant Week, the restaurant is Address 地址: 5/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, H.K. 香 港 九 龍 尖 沙 咀 彌 敦 道 118號 The Mira Hong Kong 5樓

launching the second edition of their degustation menu called Voyage, with each dish named a European The Netherlands dish 荷蘭

country. “Scotland” features Salmon, Mussels, Cucumber, and Seaweed,

while “The Netherlands” features Green Apple, Pearl Oyster, Lime, and Citrus Leaves. Tel 電話: 2156-1370

Participants can choose 5, 6, or 7 courses at $820, $960, and $1,280 respectively. 餐廳總廚Bjoern Alexander Panek 將當代歐洲菜式帶到WHISK ,並加添了許多精緻優雅的元素。為了 是次的香港餐廳週,WHISK 特地推出了一份名為Voyage 的精彩餐單,每道菜式更特別使用一個歐洲的

Website 網址: www.themirahotel.com

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國家來命名。「蘇格蘭」內有三文魚、青口、青瓜和海藻;而「荷蘭」則有青蘋果、珍珠蠔、青檸和柑 橘葉。餐單分為五、六、七道菜,價錢分別為$720 、$960 和$1280 。

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Outside of the boutique supermarkets in Hong Kong, few places truly offer a well-stocked deli—an absence that the founders of Porto Fino, a Mediterranean Kitchen and Deli at the top of Old Bailey Street in SoHo, sought to fill. The food served is inspired by Portuguese, Italian, and Spanish cuisine, often cited as the healthiest (and most delicious) diet in the world. 除了一些少數的精品超市外,在香港,其 實很少地方真正供應貯藏量與種類並重的

Creamy Cod Fish, Black Pepper & Mediterranean Salad

熟食,於是便有了Porto Fino的出現。位

忌廉鱈魚配黑椒及地中海沙律

於蘇豪區的奧卑利街,這裡供應的是集葡

Starting in July there will be changes at Porto Fino

萄牙、意大利和西班牙風格於一身的熟食

to further integrate the deli into the community.

菜式,是美味與健康並重的最佳選擇。

There will be a membership card that provides deals and free wine for members, as well as a daily lunch buffet with rotating dishes. In September, the Sunday Brunch will have freeflow Champagne, and kids will eat free. Look especially for Portuguese Roast Suckling Pig with Fries & Mediterranean Salad, Beef & Prawn Skewers, Chorizo Braised Rice, Bacalhau (cod

Cold Cut Platter 火腿拼盤

Address 地址: 28 Old Bailey St, Soho, Central, HK 香港中環蘇豪區奧卑利街28號

fish), and Arancini Di Riso (risotto balls). The restaurant’s interior is as comfortable as the cuisine, although at nighttime the atmosphere turns decidedly romantic. 由七月開始,Porto Fino更會進一步將美食融入大家的生活之中,他們將會設立會員製,並提供免費葡萄

Tel 電話: 2668 0430

酒獎賞計劃,亦有午餐自助餐及各款菜式。九月的時候,惠顧星期日早午餐更可享有無限添飲香檳,小孩 用餐更是免費。推介菜式包括:葡萄牙燒乳豬配薯條及地中海沙律、牛肉及大蝦串燒、西班牙腸Chorizo 燉飯、Bacalhau鱈魚、Arancini di Riso意大利飯團。餐廳裝潢及氣氛也非常舒適,晚上更彌漫一片浪漫 氣氛呢。

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Hotel Special

Wynn Macau

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澳門永利

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I believe that anyone who has ever been to Macau, or even those who have never set foot in the city, have certainly heard of Wynn. Wynn Macau was Asia’s first Las Vegas-styled resort, and has achieved a Five-Star award for four consecutives years by Forbes Travel Guide. The exterior of the hotel is opulent, with a brilliant gold wall, and the entirety of the hotel is built for leisure and relaxation. There are numerous award winning spas, restaurants, and shopping arcades; many of the world’s top fashion and luxury brands have outlets here, allowing guests a rich shopping experience. In addition, Wynn’s musical fountain in front of the hotel has a compelling program. There are over 200 nozzles and transmitters from morning till night, with flames, lasers, and music also emitting from the fountain. It’s an extraordinary sight, so make sure you head to the Wynn to see one of the programs. 相信曾經去過澳門、又或者從未踏足過澳門的人,都一定聽聞過永利的大名。永利澳 門是亞洲地區首間以拉斯維加式經營的渡假酒店,更是福布斯旅遊指南上榮登五星獎 的金牌酒店。從酒店外觀、以至所有室內外裝潢都充滿著金壁輝煌的豪華氣派,而且 無論住宿、餐飲、購物、水療,所有讓客人玩樂休閒的設備都應有盡有。永利和萬利 兩個名店購物區匯集全球頂尖的時尚與珠寶品牌,讓客人盡享豐富的購物體驗。 除此之外,永利酒店正門前的音樂噴泉應該是酒店最引人注目的一個節目了,這個裝 有200個噴咀和發射器、每朝早上開始、每隔15分鐘表演一場直至午夜的音樂噴泉不 只配合音樂與燈光,而且更會噴出火焰團配合水花與激光,氣勢非凡,是來到永利必 看的一個節目之一。

Chinese Text: Joe Lo // Translation: Ian Wong

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Hotel Special

Wynn Macau

澳門永利

On September 6th, 2006, the Wynn Macau officially opened to great fanfare. The second tower called Encore, an all-suite boutique hotel, was fully integrated into the Wynn Macau on April 21st, 2010, and together there are over 1,000 rooms and suites. In order to provide guests with a comfortable sleeping experience night after night, all rooms have luxury Egyptian cotton bedding, so every rest is warm and comfortable. The Wynn Macau also has a series of two-bedroom suites of over 3,000 quare feet, which are spacious and perfect for entertainment. They are usually on the upper floors, allowing guests an incomparable view of the bright night in Macau. 於2006年9月6日正式揭幕的永利大樓、連同2010年4月21日揭幕的萬利大樓,整 個永利渡假酒店擁有超過1000間客房及套房。為了讓客人擁有夜夜舒適的睡眠體 驗,永利和萬利的所有房間都使用名貴的埃及綿織床上用品,令客人感受溫暖舒適 的床鋪。永利大樓的兩房式套房除了擁有超過3000平方尺、寬敞無比的寢室及娛樂 空間,特大的落地玻璃窗與位於高層更可讓客人安坐於富麗無比的酒店房間中居高 臨下,盡覽澳門的璀璨夜色。

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In the Wynn Macau, visit the two-star Michelin restaurant Golden Flower, where Executive Chef Liu Guo Zhu offers careful interpretations of traditional Chinese cuisine. The restaurant however isn’t only known for its Michelin stars. It also represents the unique Tan cuisine, which is an old culinary tradition from the Qing Dynasty, combining northern and southern Chinese styles. Tan cuisine was born from an ancient Cantonese official who lived in Beijing. Aside from Beijing, Cantonese, and Guangzhou styles of cuisine, the founder also loved Sichuan and Shandong food, and Golden Flower specializes in these particularly. Executive Chef Liu Guo Zhu has more than a decade of experience in the kitchen, and under his veteran hands, Tan food has never been so good. The design of the restaurant is stately and stylish, with noble ingredients for these famous dishes. One of the strengths of the restaurant is the ability of the chefs to mix in different culinary styles together, while retaining the original flavour of these regional ingredients. At Golden Flower, there is a fantastic sense of balance in the cooking. 來到永利,精心演繹傳統譚家菜的京花軒更是體驗極致餐飲的最佳餐廳,以氣派和 格調冠稱的京花軒不但是米芝蓮星級中菜廳之一,其主打的譚家菜歷史悠久,被公 認為集中國北方與南方菜系精髓之大成。 譚家菜的創始人譚宗浚來自廣州,曾定居北京和四川的他更令譚家菜的菜譜加入了 魯菜與川菜菜式的精粹。主理京花軒的執行總廚劉國柱師傅曾於譚家菜嫡系廚房中 Wynn Macau 永利澳門 Rua Cidada de Sintra, NAPE, Macau 澳問外港填海區仙德麗街 Tel: (853) 2888 9966 Email: inquiries@wynnmacau.com Website: www.wynnmacau.com

工作逾十年,自然是作為京花軒執行總廚的最佳人選。 京花軒的餐廳設計氣派堂皇,菜式作選用的食材尊貴,而譚家菜的特點更是將各個 不同菜系的長處巧妙地融合,在保留食材原味之餘亦令口感達致完美的平衡。

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Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong 港島香格里拉大酒店 Chinese text: Jonathan Li // Translation: Eddie Chui

One of my favourite Hong Kong hotels has been and remains since its opening back in 1991 the Island Shangri-La. It remains unique to this date, notwithstanding competition from many other luxurious new hotels. 港島香格里拉自1991 年開幕以來,一直至今都是我 最喜歡的香港酒店之一。儘管這幾年香港開了很多豪 華酒店也無損於我對這酒店的愛戴。

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One of the hotel’s uniqueness is its classic style while many new hotels tend to be modernist if not even minimalist. The palatial opulence is in evidence in every corner of the hotel; even the bed room, decorated with Chinese influences of style, has the well-recognized Shangri-La crystal chandelier. The bedrooms of some 44 square meters are among the largest of Hong Kong hotels and its supply of amenities is unsurpassed. Service is of the highest standard. The Horizon Level opened only in 2009 is where a mere stay is elevated

這間酒店的獨特之處,在於它的豪華古典風格,儘管新酒店傾向於現代

to some ultimate experience of pamper. The lounge is truly palatial,

化,甚至走簡約路線。港島香格里拉的宮廷式的奢華見於每一角落,甚至

richly decorated with no less than 6 huge chandeliers to add to the

中西合壁的客房也裝上水晶大吊燈:這可說是香格里拉的標誌。約44平

grandeur. The evening snack service is an actual dinner: probably

米的客房是香港最大的酒店客房之一,客房供應品的齊備更是香港首屈一

no other hotels offer so much choice of food. Breakfast is served at

指。酒店的服務水平自然是最高的。

Restaurant Petrus adjacent to the lounge on the 56th floor and among breakfast items one can order is Foie Gras and Eggs in Truffle sauce.

住 2009 才開幕的豪華閣貴賓樓層,更能把一宿之寄昇華成為難忘的享受經

No hotels I know offer an item of such luxury in an inclusive breakfast.

驗。那裡在 56 層的貴賓廊的宮殿裝潢,和那六座大水晶燈使我覺得置身歐

The experience of my stay at the Horizon Level with its incomparable

洲皇宮。那裡的傍晚小點簡直是豐富的大餐,而在柏翠餐廳用的大早餐,

service exceeds my highest expectation.

點菜之選竟然包括松露菌汁鵝肝雞蛋。我周遊列國,也沒有見過任何酒店 包的早餐有這樣的高級早餐菜。這一切使我在豪華閣的住宿經驗竟然超過

Island Shangri-La has my favourite restaurants in both Summer Palace and

我的最高期待。

Petrus, for Chinese and French haute cuisine. I have been a satisfactory patron of these restaurants for many years and remain so even with new

港島香格里拉的夏宮和柏翠餐廳始終是我在香港吃高級粵菜和法菜的精

openings. It is the authenticity of traditional cooking that I value more than

選,不因近年開了許多新店而有二心。我的滿意來自其烹調的絕對傳統而

anything else. Now that I have also stayed in this hotel that I have known

正宗。我一直是餐廳的擁躉,現在有機會住店,印象超好。我希望儘快再

for a long time for its restaurants, I look to be pampered again soon.

次入住,也就是再次享受偶爾的奢華了。

Hotel Life_Island Shang.indd 2

2/7/13 3:04 PM


Art Life

092

A

rt and Culture at HAJI

文化與藝術在夏至 Text: Mini 夏至 Images: michaelmichaelmichael, HAJI Team Hair ( Mini ): Pius Yiu, Jim Ho, Sonn Lam @ Orient4.com.hk

Simplicity and Complexity 簡單與複雜 HAJI Gallery presents two exhibitions in July, from simplicity to complexity. The first one is an exhibition with Rex Koo, a renowned graphic designer in Hong Kong. By using graphics and symbols, Rex paints and designs the portrait of celebs. The second show in July is a mixed media exhibition by a group of twenty-something artists. They were brought up in different cultures. They use different angles to express the contrasting patterns of their early twenties. 七月份,在HAJI Gallery舉行的兩個展覽,是簡單與複雜的兩極。一個是由著名平面設計師 Rex Koo 以簡單的線條勾畫人像的《Simple People》;一個是由一班來自不同成長地方,不同血統 的二十出頭藝術家,用多媒體的方法表達看似簡單但複雜的二十歲。

Twentybliss are Jonathan Marco Aexel, Jocelyn Chan, Elliott Cost,

這是一個集合多位二十出頭,在不同地方出生和成長的藝術

Sarah Kohler, Rebecca Lin, Claire Raymond. “This is a collection

家: Jonathan Marco Aexel 、 Jocelyn Chan 、 Elliott Cost 、 Sarah

of artists at different points of their early-twenties and what they

Kohler 、 Rebecca Lin 及 Claire Raymond 以不同觀點,為二十歲作出新

have found within themselves through chaos.The arrival into a new

的定義。當很多人都迷上二十歲的青春時,有沒有人真正明白,在這混雜

decade seemingly serves as an empowering event and the more

的世代下,面對大量文化衝擊的二十歲是怎樣面對和尋找自己?踏入另一

power we have, the greater the responsibilities. We can make

個十年,在享受更多權力和承擔更大程度的責任底下,在麻木的困惑中,

choices. All of this only leads to numbing confusions.It’s whatever

作出自己的選擇。他們以畫作、相片、音樂、視像去表達二十後感。

you want it to be….“We’re just a bunch of twenty-somethings though” Sarah Kohler stated.

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Art Life

093

HAJI Gallery G/F, 12-14 Lok Ku Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. HAJI @michaelmichaelmichael.com Tel : 2891-1964 www.youtube.com/HAJITV2011

“… while staying simple is always the most difficult to achieve. If I set up

「在條件充足的情況下反而容易變得任性,簡簡單單是最難做到的。以人

a certain theme to myself when making portraits, would I still be able to

像畫為題材的話,我能在有限的條件下表現出輪廓、情緒和態度嗎?」

express and outline the silhouettes, emotions and attitudes under limited

Rex 說。 Rex以平面設計常用的骨格 ( Grid) 為主軸,讓畢加索,瑪莉連夢

conditions?...”Rex Koo stated. Rex uses grids and simple graphics to

露,山本耀司,川久保玲, Stanley Kubrick電影世界下的《發條橙》等,

portrait the world famous people like Picasso, Marilyn Monroe, Yohji

以簡單線條的姿態展現不簡單的藝術觸覺。展覽還有向 Andy Warhol致敬

yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Stanley Kubrick’s “A clockwork Orange”. Rex

的手繪加絲印金寶湯,是真的可以飲用的金寶湯,和一套十二款的 Simple

creates his “simple” version of Campbell soup as a tribute to Andy Warhol.

People明信片等紀念品,實現不簡單的普普概念。

To celebrate the pop art, check it out the “simple people” iconic postcards set at HAJI Gallery.

Art Life_Haji.indd 2

2/7/13 2:53 PM


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The terroir Situated inland on top of limestone hills, the vineyard enjoys ample exposure to the sun. The soil is composed of 40-50% rock, so the land is dry and, despite the presence of some extremely fertile clay deposits, yields are low. Tasting notes Golden, almost sandy pink in colour. Nose blends highly delicate peach, lily and citrusnotes. Round and silky in the mouth, with a lingering sugary sweetness and a lively finish.A lovely accompaniment to flambéed or seared burbot cheeks with vegetables; chicken (grilled or with a sauce); fruity desserts.

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Supplier Page031.indd 1

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28/6/13 11:54 PM


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Supplier Page031.indd 2

28/6/13 11:54 PM


Rediscover coffee. Valnerina truffle coffee is a blend of 50% Arabica 50% Robusta coffees with dried Italian truffles. Intensely aromatic, smooth, and balanced, this is the perfect break from the everyday to the extraordinary. Everyone deserves a little luxury. For enquiries contact Lauren McPhate via email at lauren@hofws.com or call 2345 4377.

Distribution List Hotels & Club Houses The Repulse Bay Hong Kong 109 Repulse Bay Road, HK 淺水灣淺水灣道109號 The Luxe Manor 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀金巴利道39號 Garden East G/F, 222 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東222號地下 Grand Hyatt HK 1 Habour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號 Hotel Nikko Hong Kong 72 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN, HK 尖沙咀東麼地道72號 Hotel Icon 17 Science Museum Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀東部科學館道17號 Hullett House 2 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號 Hyatt Regency Hong Kong 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號 Island Shangri-La Hong Kong Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, HK 香港中區法院道太古廣場

JW Marriott Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensay, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場 Langham Place Mongkok, Hong Kong 555 Shanghai Street, Mongkok, KLN 旺角上海街555號 Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong 5 Connaught Road, Central, HK 中環干諾道中5號 Regal Hong Kong Hotel 88 Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣怡和街88號富豪香港酒店 Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Tower 20 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道20號 The Mira 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號 W Hong Kong 1 Austin Road West, KLN 西九龍柯士甸道西1號

The Landmark Mandarin Oriental 15 Queen’s Road Central, The Landmark, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 The Excelsior Hong Kong 281 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道281號 The City View 23 Waterloo Road, KLN 九龍窩打老道23號 The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Road West, KLN 九龍柯士甸道西環球貿易廣場 Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel 5/F, Harbour City, KLN, HK 九龍尖沙咀海港城5樓 Hotel LKF 33 Wyndham Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, HK 中環蘭桂芳雲咸街33號 Hotel Panorama 8A Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀赫德道8號A

Intercontinental Hong Kong 18 Salisbury Road, KLN 九龍梳士巴利道18號

Hong Kong Skycity Marriott Hotel 1 Sky City Road East, Hong Kong International Airport, Lantau, HK 新界大嶼山天城東路1號

Intercontinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong 70 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, KLN 九龍尖沙咀東麼地道70號

Novotel Hong Kong Century 238 Jaffe Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔謝菲道238號

The Peninsula Hong Kong Salisbury Road, KLN 九龍尖沙咀梳士巴利道

Renaissance Hotel 1 Harbour Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔港灣道1號

Regal Kowloon Hotel 71 Mody Road, TST, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道71號 Conrad Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, HK 金鐘皇后大道88號太古廣場 Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel 1 Castle Peak Road, Gold Coast, HK 香港青山道1號 Chinese Recreation Club, Hong Kong (CRC) 123 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, HK 大坑銅鑼灣道123號 Kowloon Cricket Club 10 Cox’s Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 覺士道10號九龍木球會 Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Kellett Island, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣奇力島 The American Club 48-49/F, Exchange Square Two, Central, HK 中環交易廣場第二座48-49樓 The China Club 13/F, The Old Bank of China Building, Central, HK 中環德輔道中2A中國銀行大廈13樓-14樓 The Hong Kong Golf Club 19 Island Road, Deep Water Bay, HK 深水灣香島道19號

Bars & Restaurants agnes b. Café Shop 1 & 2A, Fashion Walk, 2-4 Kingston Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣京士頓街2-4號1-2A舖

The latest Italian dining concept brings authentic regional tastes from Italy, serving this best-loved cuisine in a relaxed and rustic setting, with stunning harbour views. Nestled within the Hong Kong Arts Centre, it offers a new dining experience that rolls artistic vibe and impeccable hospitality into one. It has been awarded the seal Ospitalità Italiana, a certificate recognizing Assaggio’s authentic Italian cuisine and recommended by the Michelin Guides.

Address: 6/F Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: 2877 3999 Website: www.assaggio.hk

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Café Siam is one of the city’s most established Thai restaurants and the only Michelin-recognized establishment in Hong Kong, Café Siam is a tranquil respite from the hustle & bustle of Lan Kwai Fong.

Address: 2/F – 3/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong Tel: 2851 4803 Website: www.cafesiam.com.hk

Agnes b. Café Shop 2402K, level 2, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tism Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海港城港威商場二階2402K號鋪 Ambrosia (Osyter Bar & Grill) Shop 2802, 28/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場28樓2802號舖 Angel’s Share 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Road, Central, HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道23號金珀苑2樓 Backstage Live Restaurant 1/F, 52-54 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街52-54號1樓 Bar Aedes 14 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街14號 Barg 1/F, 3 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣耀華街3號百樂中心1樓 Bo Innovation Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道60號 J Senses 2樓13號舖 Café Gray Deluxe Hong Kong Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場49樓 CÉPAGE / Vinum Fine Wines 23 Wing Fung Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔永豐街23號��� Capelli G/F, 53 Peel Street, Central, HK 中環卑利街53號地下

Chezles Copains French Restaurant G/F, 117 Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung, NT 西貢白沙灣 117 號地下 Cuisine Cuisine 3/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道118號The Mira 3樓 DG Café and Wine Cellar Limited 2 Creasy Road, Jardine’s Lookout, HK 銅鑼灣渣甸山祈禮士道2號地下 Domani Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, HK 金鐘金鐘道88號太古廣場4樓平台 Golden Bauhinia Cantonese Restaurant HK Convention & Exhibition Centre, Golden Bauhinia Centre, Wanchai, HK 灣仔金紫荊廣場 Elite Concepts – 1/5 nuevo G/F, 9 Star Street, Wanchai, HK 灣仔星街9號地下 Elite Concepts – cinecittà 2/F, Cosmo Hotel, Mongkok, 88 Tai Kok Tsui Road, KLN 旺角大角咀道88號麗悅酒店2樓 Finds 1/F, The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀金巴利道39號帝樂文娜公館1樓 FoFo by el Willy 20/F, M88, 2-8 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街2-8號M88 20樓 G Bar Shop 4009, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4009舖

Gold by Harlan Goldstein Level 2, LKF Tower, 37 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街37號蘭桂坊酒店2樓 H One Shop 4008, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4008舖 Habibi Room 3323, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Hoi Pong Road, Aberdeen, HK 香港仔田灣海旁道7號興偉中心3233號 Harbour City – BLT Burger 301, L3, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場3樓301號舖

Indochine 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊德己立街21號4樓 Intercontinental Hong Kong – Steak House Steak House, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道18號, STEAK HOUSE Island Tang Shop 222, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中9號嘉軒廣場222舖 Jimmy’s Kitchen C & C1, G/F, 29 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀亞厘士道29號九龍大廈地下C及C1舖

Harbour City – BLT Steak 62, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下62號舖

Juliette’s Wine Bar Shop B, G/F & 1/F, Kin Wah House, 176-178 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai Hang, HK 天后銅鑼灣道176-178號1樓及地下B舖

Harbour City – HABITU Ristorante 63-63A, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下63及63A號舖

Jumbo Kingdom Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 香港仔黃竹坑深灣碼頭徑

Harbour City – The Quarterdeck Kowloon 531, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀海運大廈商場地下531號舖

Kee Club 6/F, 32 Willington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街32號6樓

Hip Holiday 7/F, Parekh House, 63 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街63號巴力大廈7樓

L’atelier de Joel Robuchon Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道西15號置地廣場401舖

Home Bar & Lounge 23/F, Continental Diamond Plaza, 525 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣軒尼詩道525號恆和鑽石大廈23樓

Lawry’s The Prime Rib Hong Kong 4/F, The Lee Gardens, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣希慎道33號利園1期4樓

Hyde Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrance, Central, HK 中環擺花街1號中環大廈2-3樓

Le Mieux Bistro 1/F, 83 Wan Chai Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔灣仔道83號1樓

Domani Ristorante’s menu combines the best of the cutting-edge and the traditional in the world of Italian cuisine. With regular visiting guest chefs and winemakers from overseas, and a highly trained team of Italian chefs here at home, the restaurant caters to guests who believe that the geography and culture behind each dish play an essential part in the fine dining experience. Address : Level 4, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty Tel : 2111-1197 Email : info@domani.hk Website : www.domani.hk

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We’re all about relaxed, simple food. Italian trattorias, English pubs, and traditional French bistros are what inspire us. From cider steamed mussels to tender roast chicken, we’ve put our own spin on a few bistro favourites. Our philosophy celebrates rustic, comfort cooking, and we’ve created a diverse menu that highlights local ingredients as well as specialty imports. Unwind with a glass of red at our happy hour and try the tapas selection that changes daily. Lounge in our sun-drenched dining room with apple crumble and coffee. Or tuck into an 8oz. New Zealand Ribeye and shamelessly savor every bite. Address : G/F, 87-89 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Tel : 2815 9000 Website : www.societi.com.hk

Madison (HK) Room 1204, 12/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心12樓1204室

Rice Paper Shop P413-418, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causewy Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心4樓P413-418

The Drawing Room JIA Boutique Hotel, 1-5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣伊榮街1-5號

French Chamber 21/F, On Hing Building, 1 On Hing Terrace, Central, HK 中環安慶泰1號安慶大廈21樓

Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining 18/F, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 18樓

Ruth’s Chris Steak House G/F, Empire Centre, 68 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀麼地道68號帝國中心地下G4號舖

The French Window Shop 3101-07, 3/F, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場3樓3101-07號

Hair Corner 9/F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣告士打道280號世貿中心9樓

NanHai No.1 (eyebar) 30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道63號國際廣場30樓

Sevva 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Causeway Bay, HK 中環遮打道10號太子大廈25樓

O³ 5/F, Cityplaza, Taikoo Shing, Island East, Quarry Bay, HK 太古城道18號太古城中心5樓 North Carolina Grill Restaurant & Bar 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環蘭桂坊雲咸街33號LKF Tower7樓 Oyster Cube Restaurant Shop C1, G/F, Seabright Plaza, 9-23 Shell Street, North Point, HK 北角蜆殼街9-23號秀明中心地下C1舖 Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restsurant Shop 313, 3/F, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀河內道18號K11, 3樓313舖 Pata Negra House Shop E, G/F, Tung Cheung Building, 1 Second Street, Hong Kong 西環西營盤第二街1-11號東祥大廈地下 Red (pure) 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance Street, Central, HK 中環港景街8號國際金融中心商場二期4樓

St. George Hullett House 1/F, Main Building, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀廣東道2號A, Main Building 1樓 Steik World Meats Shop 314, K11, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀河內道18號K11購物藝術館314舖 Sun Tong Lok Chinese Cuisine 4/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場4樓D號舖 Tapeo 19 Hollywood Road, Central HK 中環蘇豪荷李活道19號 Tastings Wine Bar B/F, 27-29 Wellington Street, Central, HK 中環威靈頓街27-29號元益大廈地庫 The Box Shop 4010, Podium Level Floor, IFC Mall, Central, HK 中環國際金融中心商場4樓4010舖

The Peak Lookout 121 Peak Road, The Peak, Hong Kong 香港山頂道121 號 Whizk Innovation Tele: 3487 1715 WooLooMooLoo 31/F & Rooftop, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔軒尼詩道256號The Hennessy 31樓及頂樓 Level 21, The One, 100 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀彌敦道100號The ONE 21樓 Yellow Door Kitchen 6/F, 37 Cochrane Street, Central, HK 中環閣麟街37號祥興商業大廈6樓 Zuma Level 5 & 6, the Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場5樓及6樓

Lifestyle & Luxury Stores Christie’s Hong Kong Limited 22/F, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈22樓 Elegant Watch & Jewellry Shop C, G/F, Wheelock House, 20 Pedder Street, Central, HK 中環畢打街20號會德豐大廈地下C舖

Harvey Nichols The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central, HK 中環皇后大道中15號置地廣場 Harvey Nichols Sopexa Hong Kong Room 2001, 20/F, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東 183號合和中心20樓 2001室 HK Wine Judges Association Unit 1502, Perfect Comm Bldg, 20 Austin Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀柯士甸道20號保發商業大廈15樓1502室 Reddot Optic Shop 3, Basement, Woodhouse, 36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道 36-44號活方商場地庫3號鋪 Gilman Galleries G/F, 1 Gilman Street, Central, HK 中環機利文街52號地下 Shop 203, Level 2, Grand Central Plaza, Shatin, NT 沙田新城市中央廣場 L2 203號鋪 Shop 313B, Ocean Centre, 5 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK 尖沙咀海洋中心313B鋪 Shop 710-711, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, HK 灣仔皇后大道東183 號合和中心710-711室

Messina, named after a city in Sicily, features the finest cuisine from southern Italy. Diners can enjoy a few drinks before their meal at the bar located near the entrance, with window-side tables overlooking Victoria Harbour. In December 2012, Messina received a “Particularly Pleasant” recommendation in the MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong Macau 2013.

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Messina 以 意 大 利 西 西 里 一 個 城 市 命 名 , 主 打 意 國 南 部 美 饌 。 進 餐 前 不 妨在入口處的酒吧淺嚐美酒,倚窗座位可飽覽璀璨維港美景。去年12 月, Messina 獲得米芝蓮「上佳餐廳」推介。

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Address: 5/F, Harbourfront Landmark, 11 Wan Hoi St, Hung Hom Tel: 3746 2733 Website: www.kodining.com

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Wine Shops & Cellars 96 Bonham - The Wine Shop Ground Floor, No. 96 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街96號地下 Apex Cellar Limited 10-11 UG South Seas Centre, 75 Mody Rd., Tsimshatsui East,Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龍尖沙咀東麼地道75號南洋中心 地下高層10-11號 ASC Fine Wines Unit 1804, 18/F, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心18樓1804室 Angeleno Wine Merchant Suite 2205, Metro Center Phase II, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN, HK 九龍灣臨興街21號美羅中心2期2205室 Bordeaux etc G01, Leighton Centre, 77 Leighton road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港銅鑼灣禮頓道77號禮頓中心G01號舖 Burgundy etc Unit 404,4/f Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環畢打街12號畢打行4樓404號 Champagne etc G/F, 19 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中環擺花街19號地下

Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited 2/F, 5 Lan Fong Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣蘭芳道5號2樓 Delish 1401A, Block B, Seaview Estate, 2-8 Watson Road, North Point, HK 香港北角海景大廈屈臣道2-8號1401A, B座 Grande Passione Ltd. 605 Yu Yuet Lai Building, 43-55 Wyndham Street, Central, HK 中環雲咸街43-55號余悅禮行605號 Hong Kong Wine Vault 5-6/F, 52 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Wong Chuk Hang, HK 黃竹坑黃竹坑道52號合隆工業大廈5-6樓 Horizon Cellars Wine & Spirit Merchants 1012 Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, HK 鴨利洲利榮街2號新海怡廣場10樓1012室 Independent Wine Centre (IWC) 1603 Skyline Centre, 71-77 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環永樂街 71-77 號 嘉匯商業中心 1603 室 La Cave Room 202, Yip Fung Industrial Building, 2-18 D’Aguilar Street, Central, HK 香港德己笠街2-18號業豐大廈202室

Mayfair Fine Wines (HK) Co., Ltd. Shop 1C, 1/F, Entertainment Building, 30 Queen’s Road Central, HK 中環皇后大道中30號娛樂行1樓C舖

Spanish Wine Club Unit 03-04, 22/F, Chuang’s Enterprises Building, 382 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, HK 香港灣仔駱克道382號莊士企業大廈22樓03-04室 The 8 Estate Winery Unit 302, 3/F, Harbour Industrial Center, 10 Lee Hing Street, Ap Lei Chow, HK 香港鴨脷洲利興街10號港灣工貿中心3樓302室

Merit Wine Boutique Unit 2, 2/F, Metro Centre 2, 21 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, KLN 九龍灣臨興街21 號美羅中心2期2樓2室

Vintelligence Unit 2, G/F, Tai Yip Building, 141 Johnston Road, Wanchai, HK 灣仔莊士敦道141號大業大廈地下2號

Monsieur CHATTÉ 121 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, HK 香港上環文咸東街121號地下

Vinvautz Galleries Shop B2, Basement, Star House Plaza, 3 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 尖沙咀梳士巴利道3號星光行廣場地下層B2-3號鋪

Odd 750 Factory C, 10/F, Block II, Camelpaint Building, No.62, Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, KLN 九龍觀塘開源道62號駱駝漆大廈2座10樓C室 Ponti Food & Wine Cellar Shop B1001, B1/F, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, KLN 九龍尖沙咀彌敦道132號美麗華商場地下B1001號 Shop B2, B1F Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, HK 中環遮打道18號歷山大廈地下一樓B2鋪

Lions Cellar 1/F, 518 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay, HK 銅鑼灣謝斐道518號1樓

Collezione Maxscene Wineshop Unit 12B, 2/F, Block A, Shatin Industrial Centre, Unit 611-612, 6 Floor, Hewlett Centre 5-7 Yuen Shun Circuit, Shatin, HK Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong, MM Advertising - ISSUE (July 2013) - 54 210x85mm - OP-V3.pdf 1 沙田源順圍5﹣7號沙田工業中心A座2樓12B室 Kowloon, Hong Kong

M & J Vineyards (HK) Ltd. Room C, 12/F, Shing Lee Com Building, 6-12 Wing Kut Street, Central, HK 中環永吉街6-12號誠利商業大廈12樓C室

Ground Floor, 3 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley, HK 跑馬地源遠街3號地下

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Shop 356, 3/F., Phase 2, Telford Plaza, Kowloon Bay, KLN

5:44 PM 九龍灣德福廣場二期3樓356號鋪

voi_la! Shop 103, 1/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, HK 灣仔港灣道26號華潤大廈1樓103室 Shop G01A, G/F, Man Yee Building, No.68 Des Voeux Road Central, Central. 中環德輔道中68號萬宜大廈地下G01A舖 G/F, 6 Humphreys Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui 尖沙咀堪富利士道6號地下 Shop 3B, 1/F, Crocodile Center, 79 Hoi Yuen Road, Kwun Tong 觀塘開源道79號鱷魚恤中心1樓3B舖 Shop 1B, G/F, Ibis Hong Kong Central & Sheung Wan, 28 Des Voeux Road West 上環德輔道西28號宜必思香港中上環酒店1B號舖

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Remarks: · Payment method: Cheque payable to Cru Media Limited · Please mail the subscription form and cheque to us at : 22/F & 23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54 Bonham Strand West, Sheung Wan, HK · Delivery: by courier to business address only. · Subscription enquiry: Tel: 3568 9100 Fax: 3568 9101 E-mail: subscription@cru-magazine.com

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professional

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or visit our website 或瀏覽

www.collezione.com.hk 08/10/2012 8:54 PM


Cru Magazine 2013-07