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Koi, Natural clay and turquoise, 7"h x 9"d

Blue Rain Gallery | 130 Lincoln Avenue, Suite C | Santa Fe | 505.954.9902 Blue Rain Contemporary | 4164 North Marshall Way | Scottsdale | 480.874.8110


Lincoln Avenue, just one block from the historic plaza. Staffed by a team of representatives from the resort, the office welcomes visitors who have questions about Buffalo Thunder accommodations, meeting space, tee times, spa treatments, and more. The office shares space with the long-respected Glenn Green Galleries , which operates a larger gallery in the village of Tesuque. The downtown location features select paintings, prints, sculpture, jewelry, and rainforest baskets from the beautiful Glenn Green Galleries, including works by Pueblo of Pojoaque Governor George Rivera (right). We are open seven days a week, from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm.

The DownTown ConneCTion Buffalo Thunder Concierge 505-982-0193 130 Lincoln Avenue, Santa Fe, NM



ino concierge office, t one block from the ives from the resort, about Buffalo Thunder reatments, and more. o Thunder, or pick up a as designed in part by office shares a space hich operates a larger wn location features inforest baskets from concierge office and 9:30 Am to 5:30 Pm. etween the downtown Casino and the main 2

George Rivera with “Buffalo Dancer II” 12 feet tall and “Buffalo Dancer I” 24” tall in front of Buffalo Thunder Resort in Pojoaque

Visit the new Buffalo Thunder Resort and Casino concierge office , conveniently located at 130

Khang Pham, New Installation of monumental granite sculpture. Left to right: COSMOS 78” tall, INFINITY 118” tall & ESCUTCHEON 72” tall.

Tesuque: Gallery + Sculpture Garden (five miles north of the Santa Fe Plaza) 136 Tesuque Village Road (CR73) (next to Tesuque Village Market) Santa Fe, New Mexico 87506 • (505) 820-0008 Scottsdale: The Phoenician Resort 6000 E. Camelback Road Scottsdale, Arizona 85251 • (480)990-9110












Thy Tender Mercies 42” x 54” oil on canvas 5

Beverly Fishman

Roland Reiss Robert Swain Beverly Fishman, Dark Kandyland, 2010 Acrylic & enamel on polished stainless steel, 84” x 30” Roland Reiss, What Happens When 2001, Acrylic on canvas, 46” x 60” Robert Swain, Untitled “Study for 6 x 7–15” 1993, Acrylic on masonite, 42” x 46”


Julian Stanczak, Echo 1, 2010 Acrylic on canvas, 50” x 50”

Julian Stanczak

130 Lincoln Ave, Suite D, Santa Fe, NM 87501 p (505) 983-9555 • f (505) 983-1284 10:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. Monday – Saturday or by appointment




Ancestral Image #1 Texas limestone and bass wood 22½” x 8½” x 6” Arlo Namingha © 2010 Lies (Chimayo Series) inkjet on paper edition of 3 33¼” x 24” Michael Namingha © 2010


125 Lincoln Avenue • Suite 116 • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • Monday–Saturday, 10am–5pm 505-988-5091 • fax 505-988-1650 • •


Morning Mist acrylic on canvas 40” x 30” Dan Namingha © 2011

Exclusive Representatives for Dan, Arlo and Michael Namingha 125 Lincoln Avenue • Suite 116 • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • Monday–Saturday, 10am–5pm 505-988-5091 • fax 505-988-1650 • •

9 9

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Philip Baldwin & Monica Guggisberg “Viennese Future” Glass David Richard Contemporary 130 Lincoln Avenue, Suite “D” 505 983-9555


1 2 5 L I N C O L N AV E N U E S A N TA F E , N E W M E X I C O 8 7 5 0 1 5 0 5 9 8 3 5 6 3 9

L E G E N D S S A N TA F E . C O M



essential features Essential Information Sponsored by Barraclough & Associates P.C. 23 Santa Fe Art Districts 28 Certificate of Authenticity, The “Nowness” of Santa Fe’s Art Market 36 Canyon Road 54 Santa Fe Museums 76 Threads 119 Culinary Cocktails 154 Here Comes the Bride to Santa Fe & Taos 156 The Santa Fe Opera 166 New Mexico Adventure Guide Four Seasons of Fun 170 Staying Healthy at High Altitudes 176 Skiing & Boarding Santa Fe Style 178 Essential Classes 182 Essential Golf 188 Specialty Shops & Services 193 Designing Public Spaces 202 Commercial versus Residential Design 209 Having it Made, Literally! 222 Non-Profits FACT 241 ABQ Old Town 244 Madrid 246 The High and Low Road to Taos 254 The Allure of Taos 276 Taos Museums 289

essential art + galleries Act 1 Gallery & Sculpture Garden 285 Adieb Khadoure Fine Arts 82-84 Andrews Pueblo Pottery & Art Gallery 245 Anna Karin & Bill G. Loyd Studios • Gallery 265 Anthony Abbate 14, 96-97, 210, 288 & Back Cover Art of Russia Gallery 60-61 Beals & Abbate Fine Art 96-97 & Back Cover


Becki Banet 102 Between Heaven & Earth • The Lost Ink Project 14 Blue Rain Gallery 1 Cafe Pasqual’s Gallery 109 & 296 Cardona-Hine Gallery 271 Carole LaRoche Gallery 71 & 295 Centinela Traditional Arts 263 Chiaroscuro 13 Chimayo Trading & Mercantile 260 Chimayo Trading del Norte 282 Christopher Thomson Ironworks Studio & Gallery 26 Color & Light 252 The Cydney Taylor Gallery 283 David Richard Contemporary 6-7, 10 & Front Cover Douglas Coffin 255 El Centro de Santa Fe 46-47 Evoke Contemporary 4-5 Frontier Frames 85 GF Contemporary 43 Gallery at 822 94 Gaucho Blue 269 Giacobbe Fritz Fine Art 95 Gifted Hands Gallery 253 Glenn Green Galleries 2-3 Golden Dawn Gallery 111-112, 115 Grand Bohemian Gallery at El Monte Sagrado 278 Group 9 • Art on the High Road 266 Hand Artes Gallery & Sculpture Garden 268 Helenn J. Rumpel Fine Art Studio 105 High Desert Gallery 242 High Road MarketPlace 272 Houshang’s Gallery 45 Hunter Kirkland Contemporary 62-63 InArt Santa Fe 72-73 Indigo Gallery 248-249 Jane Sauer Gallery 59 Jeane George Weigel Studio 270 Jett Gallery 150 Joe Wade Fine Art 48-53 Judith Hert Studio • Iola Gallery 267 Karan Ruhlen Gallery 64-65

Keshi...The Zuni Collection 103 Lakind Fine Art 92-93 La Mesa of Santa Fe 207 Legends Santa Fe 11 Linda J. Ging 42 Liquid Light Glass – Elodie Holmes 184 Manitou Galleries • Gregg Albracht Inside Front Cover Marigold Arts 70 Mark White Fine Art 57 Mercedes Velarde Modern Art 104 Mesa’s Edge 284 Métier Handweaving Studio 256 Móntez Gallery 274 Museum Association of Taos 289 Niman Fine Art 8-9 Ojo Sarco Pottery & Fine Crafts 275 Ortega’s Weaving Shop 258 Ortenstone DeLattre Fine Art 279 Oviedo Carvings & Bronze 262 Painted Horse Gallery 252 The Peterson-Cody Gallery 29-34 Pippin Contemporary 39 Pippin Meikle Fine Art 74-75 Range West 251 Rift Gallery 257 Rio Grande Gallery 17 S.R. Brennen Galleries 77-81 Sally Delap-John 273 Selby Fleetwood Gallery 86 Seppanen & Daughters Fine Textiles 247 Sheri Okun 106-107 Sugarman Gallery 66-67 Tom Murray 35 Ventana Fine Art 68-69 Walden Fine Art 96-97, 288 & Back Cover Waxlander Gallery 87-91, 294 Weasel & Fitz 253 The William and Joseph Gallery 98-99 Winterowd Fine Art 25

essential artist directory 110, 113 & 114

Irene Kung Emmi Whitehorse

c hi a r o s c u r o Flo Perkins

702 1/2 Canyon Rd • 708 Canyon Rd Santa Fe NM 87501 505-992-0711 •


Be†ween Heaven and Ear†h The Lost Ink Project

18th, 19th, & 20th Century Japanese Woodblock Prints


Rare & Important 19th Century Works Hokusai

713 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505.438.8881



essential style fashion + jewelry Alpine Sports 180-181 & 292 Andean Software 142 Asian Adobe 235 Blue Fish Clothing 151 Body 185 Cafe Pasqual’s Gallery 109 & 296 Casa Nova 41 Dancing Ladies 132 Daniella 139 David Dear 143 Desert Son of Santa Fe 140 El Centro de Santa Fe 46-47 Fairchild & Co. 122-123 Folk Arts of Poland 108 Gaucho Blue 269 Gifted Hands Gallery 253 The Golden Eye 133 Gusterman’s 141 Handwoven Originals 147 High Road Market Place 272 Homefrocks 144 James Reid, Ltd. 137 Jett Gallery 150 Jewel Mark 138 & 290 Karen Melfi Collection 130-131 Keshi... The Zuni Collection 103 Kowboyz 148 La Mesa of Santa Fe 207 Laura Sheppherd, Salon de Couture 146 Lucchese 134-135 Mercedes Velarde Folk Art 104 Mesa’s Edge 284 Móntez Gallery 274 Nathalie 129 O’Farrell Hat Company 136 Ojo Sarco Pottery & Fine Crafts 275 Ortega’s Weaving Shop 258 Packard’s on the Plaza 300 & Inside Back Cover Painted Horse Gallery 252 Rippel and Company 127 Sangre de Cristo Mountain Works 187 Santa Fe Dry Goods 116


Santa Fe Weaving Gallery 118 Substance 125 Sugarman Gallery 66-67 Tom Taylor Custom Belts and Accesories 149 Wintermill Sports Shop 179 World Class Watches 145

essential outdoors Alpine Sports 180-181, 292 The Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa 163 Ernie Blake Ski School, Hotel St. Bernard & Condominiums 168 & 293 High Desert Angler 173 Paa-Ko Ridge Golf Club 189 Sangre de Cristo Mountain Works 187 Ski Santa Fe 179 Towa Golf Course, Buffalo Thunder Resort & Concierge 2 & 20

essential spa + wellness The Bishop’s Lodge ShaNah Spa 163 Body 185 Buffalo Thunder’s Wo Pin Spa 2 & 20 El Monte Sagrado Living Spa 278 Inn & Spa at Loretto 158 Nambe Drugs 196 Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa 186 Signature Consult 196 The Spa at Encantado an Auberge Resort 161 Ten Thousand Waves 174 ultiMED • ultiSkin 177

essential architecture + design

American Country Collection (ACC) 201, 298 Annie O’Carroll Bespoke Interior Design 211 Antique Warehouse 215 Arrediamo 217 Asian Adobe 235 Barbara Felix Architecture + Design 208 Bosshard 237 Carved Custom Cabinets 223 Centinela Traditional Arts 263 Constellation Home Electronics 227 Design Santa Fe 232-233 Earl Nesbitt 225 Foxglove European Country Antiques 198 Frank Seckler 238 Graystone Furniture & the Sofa Gallery 239 HVL Interiors 205 Kitchens by Jeanné 229 & 299 La Mesa of Santa Fe 207 Mediterránia 231 Moss Outdoor 96-97 & 210 Night & Day by ACC 200 Onorato Home & Ambiance 216 Ortega’s Weaving Shop 258 Pandora's 236 Range West 251 Robin Gray Design & Rugs 214 Samuel Design Group 218 Santa Fe by Design 219 Santa Fe Modern Home 206 Santa Kilim 230 Seppanen & Daughters Fine Textiles 247 Seret & Sons 221 Statements 213 Terra Bella 234 Victoria Price Art & Design 228 Wiseman & Gale & Duncan Interiors 212



essential specialty shopping + services Constellation Home Electronics 227 Doodlet's 192 & 297 Frontier Frames 85 Nambe Drugs 196 New Mexico Bank & Trust 197 Oodles Yarn & Bead Gallery 195 Storyteller Theatres 259 Todos Santos 190 Zoe & Guido Pet Boutique 194

essential lodging The Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa 163 Buffalo Thunder Resort 2 & 20 El Monte Sagrado 278 Encantado an Auberge Resort 161 Hotel St. Bernard & Condominiums 168 & 293 Inn & Spa at Loretto 158 The Inn of the Five Graces 220 Kokopelli Property Management 19 La Fonda on the Plaza 157 Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa 186 Rancho de Chimayó Hacienda 164 The Historic Taos Inn 287 Ten Thousand Waves 174

essential dining The Artesian Restaurant & Wine Bar Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa 186 Body 185 Cafe Pasqual’s 109 & 296 Coyote Café 154-155 De La Tierra • El Monte Sagrado 278 Doc Martin’s Restaurant The Historic Taos Inn 287 Gabriel's 167 Geronimo 152 Hotel St. Bernard 168 & 293 Java Junction 252


La Plazuela • La Fonda on the Plaza 157 Las Fuentes Restaurant & Bar Bishop’s Lodge & Resort 163 Luminaria • Inn & Spa at Loretto 158 Rancho de Chimayó Restaurante 164 Red Sage • Buffalo Thunder Resort 2 & 20 Terra Restaurant & Bar Encantado an Auberge Resort 161 Saveur 165

maps Albuquerque Old Town 244 Northern New Mexico 18 Santa Fe Downtown 22 Santa Fe Metro 21 Canyon Road 24 Madrid 253 High and Low Road 264 Taos 281

essential weddings

essential events

The Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa 163 Buffalo Thunder Resort 2 & 20 El Monte Sagrado 278 Encantado an Auberge Resort 161 Inn & Spa at Loretto 158 La Fonda on the Plaza 157 Laura Sheppherd Salon de Couture 146 & 162 Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa 186

ArtFeast 240 Design Santa Fe 232-233 Essential Santa Fe Events 100-102 Essential Taos Events 280-281 Storyteller Theatres 259 Town of Taos 286

the essential guide silver anniversary Jewel Mark 290 Alpine Sports 292 Hotel St. Bernard 293 Waxlander 294 Carole LaRoche 295 Cafe Pasqual’s 296 Doodlet's 297 American Country Collection (ACC) 298 Kitchens By Jeanné 299 Packard’s on the Plaza 300

essential excursions Ski Santa Fe 179 ABQ Old Town 244 Madrid 246 The High and Low Road to Taos 254 (Dixon, Rinconada & Embudo) 254 Taos 276


The Essential Guide & ADOBE are registered service marks of Byrdnest Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or reproduced without permission. Copyright 2011-12 Byrdnest Publishing Inc.

The Essential Guide is printed on 20% recycled (10% Post-consumer waste) paper using only soybased inks. Our printer meets or exceeds all Federal Resource Conservation and Recovery Act (RCRA) Standards and is a Certified member of the Forest Stewardship Council.

Only Estate Authorized Dealer in Albuquerque, NM for


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28½ x 40½

Rio Grande Gallery Also representing Frank Howell Miguel Martinez Ray Wiger ben Wright Gary Mauro Pablo Antonio Milan

David DeVary C.J. Wells Feng Changjang Robert Garcia Jan Van Ek Sherab Khandro

Jourdan Dern Melissa Lea Steve Hanks Luis Fairfield Terry Mears Carla Romero

303 ROMERO NW S205 ALbuquERquE, NEW MExICO 87104 505-242-8008 800-388-2787 Rio Grande Gallery has access to world-renowned artists. Please contact us!



Experience the Kokopelli Difference

ttttttttttttttttttttt Santa Fe offers travelers a unique and enchanting experience with rich, breathtaking vistas. Santa Fe is known for its world-famous art galleries and museums, cultural heritage, award-winning cuisine, and more. Kokopelli Property Management matches your desired experience with a wide variety of elegant and affordable accommodations. Why let your vacation slip away in a hotel room when you can stay at home?

See why Kokopelli Property Management is recognized as the leader in vacation rentals in Northern New Mexico! 855.228.2740 | santa fe | taos | angel fire


505.455.5555 | 15 Minutes North of the Santa Fe Plaza on Highway 84/285 20

Management reserves all rights.

s a n ta f e m e t r o a r e a a d v e rt i s e r m a p k e y 1 Annie O’Carroll Bespoke Interior Design p. 211 2 Body p. 185 3 Christopher Thomson Ironworks p. 26 4 Encantado Resort/Terra Restaurant p. 161 5 Frontier Frames p. 85 6 Gabriel's p. 167 7 Glenn Green Galleries pp. 2-3 8 Helenn J. Rumpel Fine Art Studio p. 105

9 HVL Interiors p. 205 10 Liquid Light Glass/Elodie Holmes p. 184 11 Nambe Drugs/Signature Consult p. 196 12 New Mexico Bank & Trust p. 197 13 Robin Gray Design & Rugs p. 214 14 Santa Fe By Design p. 219 15 Santa Fe Modern Home p. 206 16 Tom Murray p. 35 17 Victoria Price Art & Design p. 228

A Museum of Indian Arts & Culture p. 76 B Museum of International Folk Art p. 76 C Museum of Spanish Colonial Arts p. 76 D Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian p. 76

see pages 22–24 for maps and directories of downtown santa fe and canyon road.


s a n ta f e d o w n to w n a d v e rt i s e r m a p k e y 1 Alpine Sports pp. 180-181, 292 2 American Country Collection (ACC) pp. 201 & 298 3 Antique Warehouse p. 215 4 Arrediamo p. 217 5 Art of Russia Gallery pp. 60-61


6 7 8 9

Asian Adobe p. 235 Barbara Felix Architecture + Design p. 208 Barraclough & Associates P.C. p. 23 The Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa • Las Fuentes p. 163 10 Blue Rain Gallery p. 1

11 Buffalo Thunder Resort Concierge pp. 2, 20 • Glenn Green Galleries pp. 2-3 12 Cafe Pasqual’s Gallery pp. 109, 296 13 Casa Nova p. 41 14 Constellation Home Electronics p. 227 15 Coyote Café pp. 154-155

see pages 21 and 24 for maps and directories of the santa fe metro area and canyon road.

16 Daniella p. 139  David Richard Contemporary pp. 6-7, 10 & Front Cover 17 Doodlet’s pp. 192 & 297 18 El Centro de Santa Fe pp. 46-47 19 Evoke Contemporary pp. 4-5 20 Fairchild & Co. pp. 122-123 21 Folk Arts of Poland p. 108 22 Foxglove European Country Antiques p. 198 23 Golden Dawn Gallery pp. 111-112 & 115 24 The Golden Eye p. 133 25 Gusterman’s p. 141 26 Handwoven Originals p. 147 27 High Desert Angler p. 173 28 Homefrocks p. 144 29 Houshang's Gallery p. 45 30 Hunter Kirkland Contemporary pp. 62-63 31 Inn & Spa at Loretto • Luminaria Restaurant p. 158 32 The Inn of the Five Graces p. 220 33 James Reid, Ltd. p. 137 34 Jett Gallery p. 150 35 Joe Wade Fine Art pp. 48-53 36 Keshi...The Zuni Collection p. 103 37 Kitchens by Jeanné pp. 229, 299

38 Kokopelli Property Management p. 19 39 Kowboyz p. 148 40 La Fonda • La Plazuela Restaurant p. 157 41 Laura Sheppherd Salon de Couture p. 146 42 Legends Santa Fe p. 11 43 & 44 Lucchese pp. 134-135 45 Manitou Galleries • Gregg Albracht Inside Front Cover 46 Mediterránia p. 231 47 Mercedes Velarde..Modern Art p. 104 48 Moss Outdoor p. 210 Anthony Abbate pp. 96-97 49 New Mexico Bank & Trust p. 197 50 Night & Day by ACC p. 200 51 Niman Fine Art pp. 8-9 52 O’Farrell Hat Company p. 136 53 Onorato Home & Ambiance p. 216 54 Oodles Yarn & Bead Gallery p. 195 55 Packard’s on the Plaza p. 300 & Inside Back Cover 56 Pandora's p. 236 57 The Peterson-Cody Gallery pp. 29-34 58 Pippin Contemporary p. 39 59 Rippel and Company p. 127 60 Samuel Design Group p. 218

61 Sangre de Cristo Mountain Works p. 187 62 Sante Fe Dry Goods p. 116 63 Santa Fe Weaving Gallery p. 118 64 Saveur p. 165 65 Seret & Sons p. 221 66 Signature Consult p. 196 67 Statements p. 213 68 Ten Thousand Waves p. 174 69 Terra Bella p. 234 70 Todos Santos p. 190 71 Tom Taylor Belts p. 149 72 ultiMED • ultiSkin p. 177 73 Wintermill Sports Shop at Ski Santa Fe p. 179 74 Wiseman & Gale & Duncan Interiors p. 212 75 World Class Watches p. 145 76 Zoe & Guido Pet Boutique p. 194 A Georgia O’Keeffe Museum p. 56 B Institute of American Indian Arts Museum p. 56 C New Mexico Museum of Art p. 56 D Palace of the Governors & New Mexico History Museum p. 56 E SITE Santa Fe p. 56

essential information brought to you by Barraclough & Associates P.C. Certified Public Accountants & Consultants 1422 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 983-3387 • (800) 983-1040 •

Emergency Room/ Urgent Care Centers Christus St. Vincent Regional Medical Center 455 St. Michaels Dr. Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 983-3361 •

Transportation Capital City Cab 2875 Industrial Road Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 438-0000

ultiMED • urgent medical care 707 Paseo de Peralta Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 989-8707 •

New Mexico Rail Runner Santa Fe Depot, 410 Guadalupe St. Santa Fe, NM 87502 (866) 795-rail

Holy Cross Hospital 1397 Weimer Road Taos, New Mexico 87571 (575) 758-8883 •

Sandia Shuttle Express Santa Fe/Albuquerque airport (505) 474-5696 • (888) 775-5696

The Santa Fe Pickup (from Santa Fe Depot) (505) 955-6581 Taos Express (575) 751-4459 Police Santa Fe - Police Non-Emergency Line (505) 428-3710 Taos - NM State Police Non-Emergency Line (575) 758-8878


c a n yo n roa d a dv e rti s e r m a p k ey 1 Adieb Khadoure Fine Arts pp. 82-84 2 Beals & Abbate Fine Art pp. 96-97 & Back Cover Anthony Abbate • Between Heaven & Earth p. 14 & Back Cover 3 Art of Russia Gallery pp. 60-61 4 Carole LaRoche Gallery pp. 71 & 295 5 Chiaroscuro p. 13 6 Dancing Ladies p. 132 7 Desert Son of Santa Fe p. 140 8 The Gallery at 822 p. 94 9 GF Contemporary p. 43 10 Giacobbe Fritz Fine Art p. 95 11 Geronimo p. 152 12 Hunter Kirkland Contemporary pp. 62-63 13 InArt Santa Fe pp. 72-73 • Becki Banet p. 102 14 Jane Sauer Gallery p. 59 15 Jewel Mark pp. 138 & 290 16 Karan Ruhlen Gallery pp. 64-65 17 Karen Melfi Collection pp. 130-131 18 LaKind Fine Art pp. 92-93 19 La Mesa of Santa Fe p. 207 20 Manitou Galleries • Gregg Albracht Inside Front Cover 21 Marigold Arts p. 70 22 Mark White Fine Art p. 57 23 Nathalie p. 129 24 Pippin Meikle Fine Art pp. 74-75 25 Santa Kilim p. 230 26 Selby Fleetwood Gallery p. 86 27 S. R. Brennen Galleries pp. 77-81 28 Sugarman Gallery pp. 66-67 29 Ventana Fine Art pp. 68-69 30 Waxlander Gallery pp. 87-91, 294 31 The William & Joseph Gallery pp. 98-99 32 Winterowd Fine Art p. 25


see pages 21–23 for maps and directories of metro and downtown santa fe.

photo: Bill Stengel

Alex WAtts

Arturo MAllMAnn

W interoWd F ine A rt

701 Canyon Road Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.992.8878


Christopher Thomson Ironworks Studio & Gallery

by appointment 800.726.1045 26 off of I-25 between Santa Fe & Las Vegas, NM

Photo: Wendy McEarhern & Parasol Productions

New Sculpture Series Pajos and Fire River Rhythms

essential art + galleries


Santa Fe Art Districts Artistic expression can be found all Over the c ity different... Canyon Road More than 100 galleries, jewelers and boutiques call Canyon Road home. In summer enjoy openings up and down this historic street. Fall brings gallery “paint outs”: artists at work—outside! Winter boasts the famous Christmas Eve Farolito Walk. (More info on page 54.) The Delgado Street Arts District At the intersection with Canyon Road. Their 4th-Friday Gallery Walks showcase everything from the traditional to the contemporary. These walks include painting, sculpture, jewelry and live music! The West Palace Arts District Located between the New Mexico Museum of Art and the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum on West Palace Avenue and Johnson Street. Their First Friday Gallery Walks feature the work of more than 250 nationally recognized artists. Gala (Galleries At Lincoln Avenue) Arts District Located just off the historic Santa Fe Plaza on Lincoln Avenue between Palace Avenue and Marcy Street. Every 1st Friday of the month, the GALA Arts District invites the public to join in the celebration of new and cutting-edge exhibitions. Discover the artwork of more than 500 contemporary artists in nine distinctive venues while strolling Lincoln Avenue. You'll find renowned art and history museums, exceptional shopping, innovative cuisine by award-winning restaurants, and nightlife, all in a stimulating, welcoming atmosphere. The Railyard District This section of Santa Fe is home to the Farmers Market, international art space SITE Santa Fe, El Museo Cultural, teen center Warehouse 21, as well as an eclectic mix of restaurants, performance art spaces, shops, and contemporary art galleries. The Baca Street Art District Artists needed a neighborhood in which they could play with fire! The zoning of the south end of the Railroad District allows for actual working studios and galleries. A visitor to Baca Street can watch glass being blown, jewelry assembled, and metal welded. The open-door attitude leads to collaborations and the sharing of knowledge and resources. The street is anchored by Counter Culture Café. For more information about these Art Districts and their events, go to 28

Dennis WojtkieWicz

Melon series #38 oil 36” x 72”

twins #4 oil 33” x 72”

130 West Palace Avenue Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-820-0010 Open Daily

the peterson-cody gallery, llc

Contemporary Artists, Legendary Art ©


Darlis lamb

Golden mangoes bronze edition of 15 4½”h x 23½”w x 6”d

asian Persimmons bronze edition of 20 4”h x 29”w x 8¼”d

the peterson-cody gallery, llc 30

130 West Palace Avenue Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-820-0010 Open Daily

Contemporary Artists, Legendary Art ©

heather foster

1218 acrylic 48” x 48”

130 West Palace Avenue Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-820-0010 Open Daily

the peterson-cody gallery, llc

Contemporary Artists, Legendary Art ©


rAnDy PijoAn

the peterson-cody gallery, llc

130 West Palace Avenue Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-820-0010 Open Daily 32

Contemporary Artists, Legendary Art ©

night Crew, Zia Diner oil 32” x 48”

Annie Dover

the peterson-cody gallery, llc

Choices oil 20” x 16”

130 West Palace Avenue Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-820-0010 Open Daily

Contemporary Artists, Legendary Art © 33

DesmonD o’Hagan

sunset, santa Fe oil 36” x 48”

the peterson-cody gallery, llc 34

130 West Palace Avenue Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-820-0010 Open Daily

Contemporary Artists, Legendary Art ©


World Of Light, Santa Fe

16 x 24 oil on linen

Celebrating 31 years painting the landscape.

Santa Fe studio by appointment: 505.466.1490 Call for gallery affiliations.



Certificate of Authenticity The “Nowness” of Santa Fe’s Art Market by Laura Addison That Santa Fe consistently ranks as one of the nation’s top “art markets” will come as a surprise to few people. It is often touted by champions of our state’s cultural assets, but even if you were unaware of it, you need only stroll the city to discover its three primary visual art hubs: Canyon Road, downtown Santa Fe, and The Railyard. What may truly come as a surprise, however, is the uniqueness of the city’s niche within the art market: it has an altogether different character from art markets of major urban centers such as Los Angeles, New York, and London. The “art market” here encompasses a conventional, vibrant gallery scene, but the city also enjoys an established tradition of annual cultural marketplaces. These arose from a conscious branding of New Mexico’s cultural diversity in the early 20th century. Indian Market and Spanish Market are the most well-known of these, joined most recently in 2004 by the International Folk Art Market. In short, Santa Fe has successfully embraced a dual notion of the art market.


o understand the Santa Fe art market today requires looking at the tandem histories of its conventional art market and cultural marketplaces. From the start of the 20th century, the trifecta of open vistas, cultural uniqueness, and geographic isolation attracted circles of artists to Taos and Santa Fe. The sun and dry climate, of course, added to the appeal. New Mexico was beloved by modernist artists such as Robert Henri, John Sloan, Marsden Hartley and, later, Georgia O’Keeffe. Artists of the day, whether permanent residents or regular visitors, were such a presence that the state Art Gallery (today the New Mexico Museum of Art) was built in 1917 specifically to respond to their presence. It operated on an egalitarian open-door policy that allowed any artist to show his or her work. Within the museum facilities, studios were available to visiting artists. This was the contemporary art of its day, and it now had a place in Santa Fe to call “home.” Santa Fe’s reputation as an art enclave spread far and wide, ultimately bringing to the area a critical mass of creative individuals of every level of skill and ambition. In his 1921 essay, “Dissertation on Modern Painting,” Marsden Hartley philosophized about the “special and peculiar office of modern art.” Its objective, he wrote, was “to produce the newness or the ‘nowness’ of individual experience.” Though an outpost of the 1920s New York art scene, Santa Fe maintained its “nowness” factor by virtue of artists who located the “exotic” right here in America: Native American pueblos and the Hispanic mountain towns of Northern New Mexico. The region offered a cultural “authenticity” that was remarkably different from what could be found along the Eastern Seaboard. A significant factor in the growth of Santa Fe’s unique brand of art market was the founding of Indian Market and Spanish Market in the 1920s. Well-intentioned patrons of the arts, primarily from the East Coast, viewed promoting Hispano and Native American arts as an opportunity to help the community’s economic development, “revive” traditional art forms and, subsequently, “sell” Santa Fe and the Southwest. “Authenticity” was also packaged and marketed by a growing tourism industry in the Southwest, most notably by the Fred Harvey Company, which in 1925 initiated its 37

Indian Detours program. The Detours were motor tours that brought eager visitors to Native American destinations in the Southwest, where an image of the Southwest was sold along with indigenous artistry. By the 1920s, then, the formula for Santa Fe’s success as an art market was rooted in the duality still evident today: the “authentic” historic traditions indigenous to the area on the one hand, and the “nowness” of art by living artists on the other hand. Just as in Los Angeles, everyone is an aspiring actor, everyone in Santa Fe is an artist. Well, nearly everyone. Richard Florida’s study, The Rise of the Creative Class, as cited in a 2004 Bureau of Business and Economic Research (BBER) report, found that “artists, performers and writers are 4.7 times more common in Santa Fe than the national average.” Or, as Henry Shukman quipped in a New York Times article, “Swing a tortilla in Santa Fe and you’ll hit an artist.” Likewise, the city’s occupational profile shows a higher percentage of museum curators, photographers, and architects than the national average. And where artists are, a market for the work will follow. In fact, an entire art industry has developed in Santa Fe to capitalize on the artists who live and work here: there are art supply stores, art handling companies, educational facilities, galleries, art periodicals, and art framers. The art business has become a mainstay of Santa Fe’s economy and tourist industry. The BBER study on the economic impact of Santa Fe County’s arts and cultural industries reveals that “the cultural sector is responsible for three of every five dollars, and three of every five jobs, added to the Santa Fe economy each year.” The BBER report quantified what residents and visitors alike have known for decades: the arts are a valued and integral part of our civic life and quality of life. In short, 38

the City Different is a disproportionately creative city— an observation substantiated by the naming of Santa Fe in 2005 as the country’s first UNESCO Creative City. Whether by design or serendipity, Santa Fe’s reputation as an art-friendly community is known the world over. What is it that attracts artists, gallerists, museum professionals, and collectors here? The myriad answers to this question are harder to quantify. Certainly the adage “birds of a feather flock together” applies. If you are an artist in Santa Fe, you can find any number of artist groups to join to get critiques and moral support for your endeavors. There are workshops in ceramics, glass, photography, and printmaking to further your skills, and galleries and other spaces to showcase your work. Art enthusiasts have an abundance of galleries and museums to choose from, whether their interest is modernism, Native American arts, contemporary art, Japanese bamboo, glass sculpture, landscape painting, photography or video art. You can fill your calendar most nights of the week with art-related lectures and art openings, not to mention the many concerts and other performing arts options. As MaLin Wilson observed in an essay on the 1950s Albuquerque art scene, “Clearly, art centers need more than artists—they also need good museums, collectors, galleries, and criticism.” Santa Fe has these, as well as educational facilities to build and advance art careers. Central to Santa Fe’s visual arts milieu are its exhibiting institutions, including the New Mexico Museum of Art and its sister state museums, the Museum of International Folk Art and the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture; the newly named Museum of Contemporary Native Arts (formerly Institute of American Indian Arts Museum, est. 1972); the Center for Contemporary Arts (est. 1979); Santa Fe Art Institute (est. 1985); the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

SITE Santa Fe building in the Railyard. Photo by Herb Lotts


(est. 1997); and, anchoring a burgeoning contemporary art sector, SITE Santa Fe (est. 1995). International avant-garde contemporary art had a presence here before the opening of SITE Santa Fe in 1995. However, this powerful kunsthalle (exhibition space)—a former beer distribution warehouse—spawned a contemporary-art renaissance, reinvigorating the significance of “nowness” in the city’s presence in the art world. True to its history as an outpost of the East Coast art world, Santa Fe reinforced the city’s reputation as a desirable destination among international artists, curators and patrons. Like artists, galleries benefit from critical mass. Despite the disparate art offered by the more than 200 galleries, the fact is that you can throw a tortilla and hit a gallery. Our city has more galleries per capita than New York City. This heavy concentration of galleries shows and sells the work of living artists—which is precisely how and why the Santa Fe art scene began in the early 1900s. As with any genesis, the beginning of Santa Fe’s contemporary gallery scene is difficult to pinpoint. In a 1989 interview, artist/architect William Lumpkins recalled The Barn Gallery on Canyon Road as “the first kind of modern gallery” in Santa Fe, and Lorraine Mattocks’ Painters Gallery as “the first attempt really to show contemporary art.” Both establishments were active in the 1950s and 1960s. Other long-time residents recall the Hill’s Gallery, which operated 1971–1981, as the first “real” contemporary space. Whatever the genesis of Santa Fe’s modern art market, its focus has primarily been living artists—and art to live with. As the gallery scene expanded, the earliest galleries were concentrated on Canyon Road in converted adobe homes. Human in scale and with the recognizable layout 40

of a residence, a Canyon Road gallery presents an environment analogous to a potential client’s own home. In contrast, downtown galleries reflected the business character of the Plaza area. Instead of squat and charming, the downtown gallery is a storefront, sometimes more than one story, that reflects a more-or-less urban environment with the requisite Santa Fe–style stucco. In 2008, galleries in the revamped Santa Fe Railyard opened, or reopened, as the case may be, for business. They are housed in warehouse-like structures true to the character of the buildings that occupied the Railyard in decades previous. Artists have long transformed cities’ industrial areas into creative meccas—think of the manufacturing and textile buildings turned into lofts in SoHo, or the warehousesturned-galleries in Tribeca. Santa Fe followed the example of major urban centers with its own renditions of the process. Despite Santa Fe’s cachet as a vital art center, the recession has taken a toll on its art market, as it has on every other industry and locale across the nation. Institutions have tightened their belts, some galleries have closed their doors, and tourism has taken a hit. Yet, remarkably, some new galleries have opened their doors, and newcomer SOFA West (Sculpture Objects & Functional Art) has joined the venerable ART Santa Fe in the arena of Santa Fe art fairs. In order to outlive the economic downturn, galleries have changed how they do business, a common strategy these days in just about every industry. But most importantly, alternatives such as the private-dealer model have emerged. The salon remains a tried-and-true alternative today. Its esteemed history in New Mexico includes Mabel Dodge Luhan’s famous gatherings of her era’s cultural intelligentsia at her home in Taos. Other alternatives include grassroots initiatives for emerging artists, such as

A visitor examines Sakiyama Takayuki's work in the Joan B. Mirviss, Ltd., New York, booth at SOFA WEST 2010

530 South Guadalupe St. ~ in the historic Railyard ~ Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-983-8558 ~ ~

Photo: Wendy McEarhern & Parasol Productions

The Art of Living & Living with Art


artist-curated studio exhibits or pop-up showings in unexpected places; forums (physical or virtual), such as the Santa Fe Complex or any number of blogs or Facebook pages that encourage dialogue about emerging art. Most unusual may be the Axle Contemporary, a gallery-on-wheels in a converted Hostess delivery truck that communicates its current location via texts, tweets and Facebook posts. Not only is this resourcefulness and adaptability evidence of “nowness” in any locale, it is also “authentic” Santa Fe in terms of open-mindedness to unique and alternative ways of doing business. The cultural marketplaces of Indian Market, Spanish Market, and the International Folk Art Market consistently attract visitors and locals alike. They are among the pivotal events of each summer season. The International Folk Art Market is now in its eighth year of inviting folk artists from all around the globe to Santa Fe’s Museum Hill to sell their work directly to buyers. “Authenticity” remains an important buzzword for all of the Markets, suggesting the value people place on the maker and that person’s desire to stay true to cultural values and traditions. In a press release announcing the 2011 International Folk Art Market, co-founder and creative director Judith Espinar notes, “People want what is real... And this is the only place in the world where you will find so many authentic works and artists in one place at one time. The artists are tradition bearers because they are keeping the beauty, vitality, and cultural values of their homelands alive through their art. In a world where things often feel so manufactured, the Market is the real thing.” Always nonconformist, Santa Fe has managed to leverage its geographic isolation, natural beauty, and cultural uniqueness to remain a vibrant art center. In The $12 Million Stuffed Shark, Don Thompson discusses the “curious economics” of auctions and the international contemporary art market. Santa Fe has its own “curious economics,” but it is an economics quite removed from the conspicuous consumption and speculative buying at contemporary art auctions.

Linda J Ging Abstract Paintings • Monotypes Studio Visits Welcomed Please Call for an Appointment Santa Fe, NM • 505 989-8672 Linda J. Ging Paintings Available at


“Unfolding The Myth VI” Acrylic on Canvas 57” x 67”

Santa Fe’s leading destination for fine contemporary art

707 Canyon Road Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.983.3707


Our art-based economics are instead grounded in “nowness” and “authenticity.” These were values embraced in the early 20th century, when efforts were made to attract living artists to the region, and it remains at the core of this community a century later, as artists, cultural entrepreneurs, art professionals, and other creative individuals continue to come to Santa Fe to find that balance between authenticity and nowness.  Since 2001, Laura Addison has been the curator of contemporary art at the New Mexico Museum of Art. She is also respected for her work in artbook publishing, and writing art reviews and features for various publications. ART IMAGES (details) in order: Dan Namingha's "Mask Assemblage #4" (pg 27) at Niman Fine Art; David P. Knowlton's "County Road F" at PetersonCody Gallery; Lisa Holt and Harlan Reano's Cochiti Jar at the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture; Gigi Mills' "Blue Dress, Dog and Boxes" at Selby Fleetwood Gallery; Jennifer Joseph's “#9.2” (acupuncture needles) at the New Mexico Museum of Art (NMMA); Emilio Lobato's "Un Pequeno Ricon Del Mundo" at Winterowd Fine Art; Flo Perkins' “Pin Muff” at Chiaroscuro Contemporary Art; Robert Henri's "Dieguito Roybal" at the NMMA; Sangita Phadke's "Sweet Mango" at Waxlander Art Gallery and Sculpture Garden; Jaguar mask at the Museum of International Folk Art

A bit more "Nowness" The mountains, weather, art and culture are what brought David Eichholtz and Richard Barger to Santa Fe more than seven years ago. With respect to the art, they observed the wide range Santa Fe offers, nor was it lost on them that the city “has been home for some of the most important artists of our time, artists whose work had an enormous influence on contemporary artists and art, not just locally, but across the country.” So a little over a year ago they opened David Richard Contemporary. When asked why they chose contemporary art, Barger points to “the dynamic range of media and subject matter,” adding, “our focus is on non-representational abstraction from the 1960s to today because that is what we love and collect.” However, the gallery also exhibits representational and non-representational art in a variety of media. From A to Z—literally, from paintings by Simon Aldridge to glass works by Toots Zynsky—the gallery offers a broad scope of important contemporary art along with collaborative curatorial programs highlighting significant works and art historical tendencies in the 1960s through the 1980s. Also available are works of approximately 30 other prominent artists, such as Robert Motherwell and Andy Warhol. Margarete Bagshaw’s inspiration for Golden Dawn Gallery came from the realization that no one was promoting the history and work of her grandmother, Pablita Velarde, or mother, Helen Hardin, as thoroughly as they deserved. While photographing a sunrise on St. Croix, Bagshaw says she very clearly heard her grandmother, Tse Tsan (Tewa for “Golden Dawn”), “telling me to get back to New Mexico. . . .We started planning the gallery that day and were back in Santa Fe opening the gallery within weeks. I felt it was important to bring all three of us together for the first time.” Pablita began painting in the 1920s. Born on the Santa Clara Pueblo, she became the first Native woman to paint fulltime as a career. She developed a style of imagery based on the everyday life of her people, but that also contained the spiritual element of her heritage. In the 1950s her daughter, Helen Hardin, followed in her footsteps and began painting. However, Hardin “quickly found that there was another world that was in a higher spiritual plane than that represented by her own mother’s depiction of pueblo life, and began painting images of that world in a contemporary mode.” Margarete has continued and extended the crossover from traditional Native painting to contemporary Native painting. Bagshaw points out that her work is a modernist continuation of the legacy: “In all three generations, the underlying element of what we are/were painting is based on a spiritual connection to our ancestry and our mother line.” Velarde, Hardin, and Bagshaw are the only known three-generational family of full-time female painters.  44


Michael Emani

Jennifer Davenport

Akiva Huber

Richard Rosen

Patrizia Atti


Hector Martinez

Shelbee Mares

Wanda Kippenbrock

Ann Pollard

Jan Guess


Malcolm Furlow

Carol Kelley

50 E. San Francisco St. 505-988-3322 45

Jeff Caven

Kiva Fine arts • signature gallery Joe Wade Fine art the golden Web • boots & boogie


d e 46

Cen t ro

S a n t a

102 East Water Street

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boots & booGie

Joe Wade Fine art

the Golden Web

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d e

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Shana Zimmerman

Dan Bodelson

Green Room 24x36 Oil

Finally Empty 12 x16 Oil

El Centro 102 E. Water Street Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-988-2727 48

Roger Williams

Dappled Light 30 x40 Oil

El Centro 102 E. Water Street Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-988-2727 49

Michelle Chrisman

Path at the Gorge 15x30 Oil

Robin J. Laws

Brahma Mama Ed.30 Bronze

El Centro 102 E. Water Street Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-988-2727 50

John Oteri

A Special Morning 24x18 Oil

El Centro 102 E. Water Street Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-988-2727 51

Simon Winegar

Manfred Rapp

Sunlit Cliffs 24x36 Oil

Palace Avenue 16x20 Oil

El Centro 102 E. Water Street Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-988-2727 52

Lyudmila Agrich

Nick Hermes

Final Rehearsal 12 x16 Oil

The New Beau 24x36 Oil

El Centro 102 E. Water Street Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-988-2727 53

Canyon Road

by Victoria Price For at least a thousand years, people have been walking up and down what is now Canyon Road. One sunny Saturday in February, I decided to do the same: stroll the mile-long, adobe-lined thoroughfare that has long been home to so many of Santa Fe’s most famous galleries and artists. I began at the bottom of Canyon Road, at the corner of Paseo de Peralta, only a few blocks from the Santa Fe Plaza. I planned not only to visit some of my favorite galleries, but also vowed to go to others I had never been in before. In that spirit, my first stop was Art of Russia Gallery.* Stepping into the elegant adobe, I was immediately struck by the contrast between very European art in distinctly New Mexican surroundings. When Dianna Lennon, the owner of the business, greeted me, I couldn’t help but blurt out, “What prompted you to open a gallery for Russian art in Santa Fe, New Mexico?” Lennon told me that, after leaving her hometown of Kiev, she lived in Baltimore, Maryland, while searching for the perfect place to open a gallery to showcase the work of artist Yevgeni Shchukin. After visiting New Mexico, she realized Canyon Road’s international reputation made it the perfect location to introduce people to the work of this prolific artist. While showing me around the gallery, Dianna regaled me with stories of everyone she has met from around the world. Her enthusiasm both for Canyon Road and her Russian artists made Art of Russia Gallery the perfect start to my excursion! The complex at 225 Canyon Road is always a pleasure. It’s filled with a wide range of galleries, such as La Mesa of Santa Fe, with its delightful array of contemporary glass art and art furniture, and Karan Ruhlen Gallery, which features work by a superb stable of contemporary artists. Whenever I visit 225, I can’t help but recall some of my favorite galleries from over the years. One was certainly the Munson Gallery, which represented such seminal New Mexico artists as Elmer Schooley, Forrest Moses, Tom Berg, and Doug Atwill. Larry Munson’s passion for his artists and their work made visiting his gallery an adventure and a delight. Another of my favorites was Linda Durham, whose justly famous gallery showcased non-figurative work by regional artists. It was located across the street from Munson in the former First Ward schoolhouse during the 1980s. In 1906 this lovely red brick building was erected on the corner of Garcia Street to replace a dilapidated 19th-century adobe that had been a dance hall as well as a school. Before Durham moved in, the former schoolhouse served variously as a Boy Scout headquarters, natural history museum, and even a movie theatre. For the past twenty years, the old brick schoolhouse has been occupied by Ventana Fine Art. Their colorful blend of figurative, landscape, and Native American paintings delight the eye at every turn. It has always been such a joy visiting these spaces, run by people whose passion for art in New Mexico is infectious. That same passion was evidenced when I dropped in next at Marigold Arts, where I was introduced to the work of an eclectic group of photographers, weavers, and woodworkers. The intimate and unassuming


Above: an historic adobe structure along Canyon Road Right: Farolitos line Canyon Road during the famous Christmas Eve walk *Publishers note: Art of Russia moved to Delgado Street after press time.

Just up the road is another gallerist whose keen eye, passionate expertise, and uncompromising good taste epitomize the best of Canyon Road. One of the city’s most respected art dealers, Jane Sauer presents wide-ranging contemporary work that is always sure to surprise and delight. For me, a walk up Canyon Road would not be complete without stopping in to see what Jane is showing. And good taste is certainly the hallmark of Nathalie, whose owner was an editor at French Vogue. Watching movies in France as a child, she was captivated by the allure of the West. Her striking collection of western wear and accessories makes her store a must-visit destination. Perhaps the loveliest aspect of Canyon Road is that each unique art experience is interspersed with a leisurely stroll under a New Mexico blue sky, giving one time to digest what one has just seen. That winter afternoon, as I glanced up at the snow-covered Sangre de Cristo Mountains, I took a break from thinking about art. I tried to imagine what Canyon Road must have looked like when it was just a prehistoric, winding path that led east from the small, indigenous settlements along the Santa Fe River over tree-covered mountains to the Pecos Pueblo. By the 1750s the path had widened into a well-traveled dirt road that took wood-gatherers and their burros, and shepherds and their sheep, up into the mountains. Soon small adobe homes surrounded by fields of crops began to spring up, and before long, so did larger haciendas, and then, even a sawmill. But interestingly, it was the Sunmount Sanitarium to which Canyon Road owes its current reputation in the art world. Just off Canyon Road on Camino del Monte Sol, it opened its doors in 1914 for the treatment of tuberculosis and other conditions deemed curable by the high-desert air. Many well-known New York painters, architects and poets who came to Sunmount seeking a cure not only found one, but also fell in love with New Mexico’s landscape and indigenous culture. Santa Fe’s early twentieth-century cultural luminaries, such as painters William Penhallow Henderson and Gerald Cassidy, poets Wytter Bynner and Alice Corbin, and architect John Gaw Meem, all “discovered” New Mexico during their stays at Sunmount. Eventually, they set up their homes, salons, and artist studios on Canyon Road and its neighboring streets. Along with these former Sunmount patients, Los Cinco Pintores—the Five Painters— were responsible for the transformation of Canyon Road into an artists’ enclave. Affectionately known as “the five nuts in the little mud huts,” Fremont Ellis, Willard Nash, Wladyslaw Mruk, Jozef Bakos, and Will Shuster lived and created art in some of the old Canyon Road adobes. Over the ensuing decades, both artists and art lovers were drawn to Santa Fe by the unparalleled light and

Canyon Road

space reminded me of what I have always loved about our talented artists and gallery owners: their lack of pretension, coupled with great expertise, and a desire to share it with anyone who walks in the door. And across the street from Marigold is Carole LaRoche. Her eponymous gallery showcases her vibrant canvases, a charming visual menagerie of animals and birds. I again felt the same joy as well as the artist’s pride in her work.

Canyon Road

beauty of this high-desert region. And so many of them opened studios or galleries on or near Canyon Road that by 1964, the city had designated the area an historic “arts and crafts district.” Cafe Pasqual’s owner, Katharine Kagel, fondly recalls her first visit to Santa Fe in the late 1960s. She stayed in an old adobe and looked out windows (which had no glass!) at the dirt road and horses in nearby fields. Awed by the glorious golden light at the end of the day, she vowed to return as soon as she could. She did, and as owner of a James Beard award-winning restaurant and the visionary behind Santa Fe’s food bank established herself as one of the city’s culinary leaders. The adobe homes that grace both sides of the road are the “art and soul” of Canyon Road, but one of my favorite buildings has always been the one at 558 Canyon. This elegant Victorian structure has been home to many of Santa Fe’s most important galleries. During the 1980s, I loved to visit Omer and Bunny Claiborne’s striking collection of primitive and colonial antiques. And when Allene Lapides Gallery occupied the space during the 1990s, the openings featured cutting-edge contemporary artists, superb photographers, and more than an occasional movie star who was always the talk of the town! Contemporary art lovers can still get their fix at 558, which is now occupied by Gebert Contemporary. Or they can walk half a block up the road to Selby Fleetwood Gallery, where a superb blend of contemporary painting and sculpture adorns its mud-and-straw adobe walls. This juxtaposition of old and new, both indoors and out in the peaceful, walled gardens, seems to me to capture the essence of Santa Fe’s style. Back in the day, a stroll up Canyon Road was never complete without visiting Teal McKibben’s iconic La Bodega. The space always felt tiny and crammed full of the finest contemporary and vintage Native American jewelry. Anyone interested in finding the best of the best knew to drop in on Teal, who was also a distinctive artist in her own right. Hayward Simoneaux, owner of Santa Fe’s Todos Santos Chocolates and Confections, vividly remembers seeing Ralph Lauren deep in negotiation with Teal. Former Desert Son employee Fred Lopez also recalls Ralph Lauren’s visits to their store, where the designer gathered both material and information about such classic styles as the Pueblo leather moccasins. The current Desert Son owners have carried on the tradition of featuring the finest leatherwork and belt buckles, as well as creations by such international luminaries as the brilliant Henry Beguelin. His exquisite handbags are a constant source of wonder and temptation! La Bodega is now occupied by Dancing Ladies de Santa Fe. Owner Cass Schuck discovered her passion for hand woven and hand-dyed fabrics while living in Southeast Asia. After moving back to Santa Fe, her friends encouraged her to open her own store. Dancing Ladies de Santa Fe’s colorful hemp garments, which are accented with exquisite vintage Asian textiles and buttons, are a treat to view and wear. Cass’s passionate advocacy for the centuries-old traditions of using hemp and natural dyes, such as indigo, is inspiring. Equally so is her commitment to furnishing work for the indigenous peoples of Southeast Asia by providing a new audience for their enchanting textiles. While chatting with Cass I learned a jaw-dropping fact: recent polls of Santa Fe tourists showed the majority of them not only didn’t visit Canyon Road, but, some had never heard of it! As someone who first came here in 1962, when I was six months old, and who has lived in New Mexico for more than twenty years, I was stunned. How could they not know about Canyon Road? Why, it’s long been



Mark White Patina and Oil on Engraved Aluminum 20” x 32”

414 Canyon Road Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.982.2073


Canyon Road

one of the most famous arts districts not only in the country, but also in the world. Still shaking my head at Cass’s news, I dropped by Santa Kilim, another gallery that brings global textile arts to Canyon Road. Moroccan-born Karim Saidi has created a shopping experience that is often compared to meandering through a Moroccan souk. Here, you can search through an exclusive collection of handcrafted treasures, including some of the best Moroccan textiles, architectural elements and accessories. Santa Kilim introduced the beauty of this ancient workmanship to Northern New Mexicans, and countless visitors from throughout the country and the world have delighted in taking one of these treasures back to their own homes. It is easy to work up an appetite while exploring Canyon Road. Fortunately, it has always been home to a wide array of eating and drinking establishments. Albuquerque blogger Johnny Mango remembers that back in the 1960s and early 70s, “Claude's Bar was probably the wildest place in the state of New Mexico. Claude's attracted such a mix of cowboys, Indians, Chicanos, artists and writers, freaks, politicians, and full-time road warriors that every night was a total eruption of fists. Every night.” The nightspots are a bit tamer these days: El Farol, with its delicious tapas and live music; the Compound, with its understated elegance as designed by the iconic Alexander Girard; and Geronimo, with its worldrenowned global-fusion cuisine. Geronimo’s perfectly restored landmark historic adobe building is an ideal setting in which to enjoy the restaurant’s cuisine. Moreover, the juxtaposition of quintessential Northern New Mexico adobe architecture with cutting-edge international cuisine has always seemed to me a perfect embodiment of what makes Santa Fe unique. Four hours flew by, and the sun dipped below the adobe roofs. As a chill set in, I walked back down the road. It had been a perfect day, filled with stimulating interactions, visual delights, and delectable food. During the 1990s, my mother lived in a wonderful artist-built compound on Canyon Road, and we frequently walked up and down the road together. I realized, though, it had been a while since I’d taken a day to enjoy a leisurely stroll along one of my favorite streets in Santa Fe—although not a Christmas Eve goes by when my friends and I don’t enjoy the chilly (and, we hope, snowy) “Canyon Road Walk.” The street glows with luminarias and farolitos, and Christmas carols fill the air. Over the years, of course, the galleries, restaurants, and other businesses have changed, but the essence of Canyon Road has remained the same. Its gallery owners are as passionate as ever about what they do and the artists they represent. And visiting so many galleries in such a beautiful and historic district, walking among and through centuries-old buildings, under a blue New Mexico sky, combined to make my day on Canyon Road truly a perfect experience. Cass’s revelation that many of Santa Fe’s visitors today miss the chance to enjoy this treasure almost made me want to don a sandwich board and hand out flyers on the Plaza. But happily I was offered the chance to write this piece about my lovely day in one of the world’s truly unique places. I hope all who read this will one day find themselves enjoying the art, architecture, cuisine, and history of Santa Fe’s famous Canyon Road.  For more information about Canyon Road, see And to learn more about writer, designer, and art historian, Victoria Price, please see page 226.


From left to right Noel Hart Glass ~ Gugger Petter Newspaper/mixed media ~ Geoffrey Gorman Mixed media Giles Bettison Glass ~ Tim Harding Hand dyed cut silk ~ Angela Pennock Neckpiece

Representing innovative work by nationally and internationally recognized artists in a variety of media

JANE SAUER 652 Canyon Road Santa Fe, NM 87501 505 - 995 - 8513

j s a u e r g a l l e r y. c o m



241 Delgado Street Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.466.1718

autheNtic reliable



La Sylphide oil on canvas 36” x 24”

YEVGENI SHCHUKIN Child with Flower oil on linen 39.5” x 25.5”

ruSSiaN iMpreSSioNiStS MoDerN MaSterS coNteMporary artiStS propagaNDa poSterS

241 Delgado Street Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.466.1718



e r i C b oy e r Also Representing:

T BARNy joAN BohN SuSAN ReAd CRoNiN G A i l F o lw e l l C h A R l oT T e F o u S T Ted GAll G R e G o Ry F R A N k h A R R i S j e N N i F e R j. l . j o N e S hAl lARSeN Image: erIc boyer, Ascension X, Steel wire mesh, 39 × 23 × 8 inches

MiChAel MAdzo i vA M o R R i S RiCk STeveNS leSlie TejAdA

Hunter Kirkland Contemporary 200–B Canyon Road, Santa Fe, NM 87501 phone: 505.984.2111 fax: 505.984.8111



New Mexico Modernists to Present Day Contemporaries

Lippincott (1918 - 2007)





Martha Rea Baker • Gary Beals • Sally Hepler • Elaine Holien • Julian Jackson Estate of Janet Lippincott • Mary Long-Postal • Martha Mans • Kurt Meer • Amy Metier Daniel Phill • Vanita Smithey • Laurel Swab • Jinni Thomas • Kevin Tolman • Pauline Ziegen


Karan Ruhlen Gallery • 225 Canyon Road • Santa Fe NM 87501 • 505.820.0807 • •

Kevin Tolman Sally Hepler Julian JacKSon

Karan Ruhlen Gallery • 225 Canyon Road • Santa Fe NM 87501 505.820.0807 • •




“Blue Pismo”

12" x 12"

Oil on Panel

“Dawn Racer”


22" x 20" x 12"



VENTANA FINE ART 400 Canyon Road • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • 505-983-8815 • 800-746-8815 • 68

“Iron Tail”

12" x 12"



VENTANA FINE ART 400 Canyon Road • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • 505-983-8815 • 800-746-8815 • 69

Rag Rugs by

Classic Happy Rug

Sandy Voss

Necktie Rug

Marigold Arts Photos by Herbert Lotz


424 Canyon Rd. Santa Fe, NM 87501





night sky/white horses









g i c l é e o n c a n va s







limited edition


4 0” x 6 0”

A l s o S h o w i n g J i l l S h w a i k o, A l l e n Wy n n, R o n A l l e n, J o s h u a G a n n o n, a n d F r a n S e g a l .

Open daily 10-5 415 Canyon Road • Santa Fe , NewMexico 87501 505-982-1186 fax 505-982-3575 e m a i l @ l a r o c h e - g a l l e r y. c o m w w w. l a r o c h e - g a l l e r y. c o m 71


219 Delgado Street Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.983.6537 73


75 75

Santa Fe Museums georgia o’keeffe museum

217 Johnson St. 505-946-1000 The world's largest collection of O’Keeffe’s work.

palace of the governors & new mexico history museum

105 E. Palace Ave. 505-476-5100 113 Lincoln Ave. 505-476-5200 These connected buildings (old & new) include permanent and temporary exhibitions that chronicle the history of Santa Fe, as well as New Mexico and the region.

new mexico museum of art

107 W. Palace Ave. 505-476-5072 Large collection of works by New Mexico artists, with traveling exhibitions.

museum of contemporary native arts

108 Cathedral Place 505-983-1666 The nation’s only museum dedicated to contemporary Native American arts.

museum of indian arts & culture

710 Camino Lejo 505-476-1250 Collection of artworks and cultural history of Indian tribes of the Southwest region of the United States.

museum of international folk art

706 Camino Lejo 505-476-1200 Incredible collection of folk art from around the world.

museum of spanish colonial arts

750 Camino Lejo 505-982-2226 Home to a collection of Spanish Colonial art and artifacts that spans five centuries.

wheelwright museum of the american indian

704 Camino Lejo 505-982-4636 Historic arts and crafts as well as contemporary works from Native American cultures.

site santa fe

1606 Paseo de Peralta 505-989-1199 Ever-changing contemporary art from around the world.


Top to bottom: Georgia O'Keeffe's "Sky above the Clouds" at the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum; "Cowboys Going to Dinner", Mora County, NM, c 1897, Courtesy Photo Archives, Palace of the Governors; and "Apache Dancer", in front of the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, Milner Plaza on Museum Hill

AdriAn Gottlieb dormir oil on Linen 16 x 40

MichAel Klein the Wash Girl oil on linen 44 x 33

555 Canyon Road Santa Fe, nM 87501

www.srbrennengaller • 505.428.0274 Formerly the site of Nedra Matteucci Fine Art 77

meunier Parfum de Pin oil on canvas 20 x 20

Justo revilla The Vendors oil on canvas 19 x 19

555 Canyon Road SanTa FE, nM 87501

www.srbrennengaller • 505.428.0274 Formerly the site of Nedra Matteucci Fine Art 78

Giner Bueno El Regreso oil on canvas 38 x 51

eustaquio seGrelles La Recojida oil on canvas 32 x 32

555 Canyon Road SanTa FE, nM 87501

www.srbrennengaller • 505.428.0274 Formerly the site of Nedra Matteucci Fine Art 79

Josep Baques Equus Blanco oil on panel 40 x40

Boulanger Piano Trio oil on canvas 21x26

555 Canyon Road SanTa FE, nM 87501

www.srbrennengaller • 505.428.0274 Formerly the site of Nedra Matteucci Fine Art 80

patrick shiels Brugge Memory oil on panel 54 x 40

Established in 1981, the SR Brennen Galleries proudly represent some of the finest artists from around the world offering works that range from traditional Impressionism, Post-Impressionism, and Realism to the more Contemporary and provocative.

555 Canyon Road SanTa FE, nM 87501

www.srbrennengaller • 505.428.0274 Formerly the site of Nedra Matteucci Fine Art 81

Karen Bezuidenhout

Dr. Fadhli

“New Mexico Ponies” 24” x 24” acrylic on canvas

“The Thinker” bronze 37”h

Sushe Felix and Tracy Felix Show Opening June 17, 2011

Sushe Felix

“Family Tree” Acrylic on panel 24” x 18”

Tracy Felix

“Southwest Vista” oil on panel 30” x 24”

Adieb Khadoure Fine Arts 613 Canyon Road, Santa Fe, NM 87501 82

directly across the street from our former location

t. 505-820-2666 c. 505-603-0630

Pei Yang

“The Sitting Room” oil on canvas 40” x 48”

Dale Landrum

“The Ghost Ranch Cliffs in October” oil on canvas 20”x 24”

Adieb Khadoure Fine Arts 613 Canyon Road, Santa Fe, NM 87501 directly across the street from our former location

t. 505-820-2666 c. 505-603-0630


Arlie Regier

“Treasure Chariot” Stainless Steel

David Regier

“Equilibrium Cylinders” Stainless Steel

Steven Boone

“Hidden Passage” oil on linen 48” x 36”

Adieb Khadoure Fine Arts 613 Canyon Road, Santa Fe, NM 87501 84

directly across the street from our former location

t. 505-820-2666 c. 505-603-0630

While your art knows no bounds, let Frontier Frames showcase your work with quality custom picture framing.

At the Allegro Center • 2008 St. Michael’s Drive • 505.473.1901 •

Serving Santa Fe Artists, Galleries, and Collectors since 1973


Gigi Mills Kevin Box


600 canyon road santa fe, nm 87501 800.992.6855 505.992.8877

P hyllis K aPP “The stars are shining Bright” 23” x 17” Watercolor on Paper

M arshall N oice

“hillside rollins” 45” x 45” oil on canvas


MAttHew HigginbotHAM “Autumn grove” 30” x 36” oil on Canvas

PAtriCk MAttHews “Autumn splendor” 48” x 60” oil on Canvas


A ndrée H udson

“running Around” 36” x 36” Acrylic on Canvas

b ruCe k ing

“A night of grandmother Moon” 56” x 50” oil on Canvas



“imprinted nature” 20” x 20” acrylic on Steel

MiChael ethriDge “elated Feeling” 36” x 36” oil on Canvas


S uzanne D onazetti C hriS t urri

Maquette Woven Copper Detail

“Protector of Peace and Serenity� Various Sizes Patina on Copper and Steel


LiSA LiNCh Casa de Fiori 40” x 40” oil on canvas

LaKind Fine Ar t • 662 Canyon Road • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • lakindfinear


TRACey LANe Sparrow 20” x 20” mixed media on wood panel

LaKind Fine Ar t • 662 Canyon Road • Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.982.3221 • lakindfinear t.com93

822 CANYON ROAD, SANTA FE, NM 87501 505.989.1700

Carol Gold Jami Tobey

K. Henderson


Joshua Tobey

Peter Krusko

Gallery 822 proudly represents: Joshua Tobey, Carol Swinney, Brent Lawrence, Amy Ringholz, K. Henderson, Carol Gold, Nori McConnaughhay, Robert Taylor, Walker Moore, Sandy Keller, James Moore, Peter Krusko, Robert Rogers, Roxann Moore, Jane Chavez, and Jami Tobey

702 Canyon Road Santa Fe, NM 505.986.1156

Representing established and emerging artists in Santa Fe for over 10 years 95

e t a b b A ny

o h t n A

Beals & Abbate Fine Art

713 Canyon Road, Santa Fe - 505.438.8881

Janine Contemporary

715 Canyon Road, Santa Fe - 505.989.9330

Moss Outdoor

530 South Guadalupe, Santa Fe - 505.989.7300

Walden Fine Art


125 Kit Carson Road, Taos 575.758.4574


The William&Joseph Gallery



paintings, sculpture, glass, encaustics, mixed media

727 Canyon Road Santa Fe t 505.982.9404 98

Featuring DeBusk, Potter, Bowers, Shank, Cole, Minden, Richardson, Landsiedel, Mosedale, Bogdanoff, Morrissey, Lujan, Fasani, Willsea, Marcus, Mickelsen, Rosenfeld, Scott, Jager, Hutchinson, Sanders, Lazarus, Cermanski, Lichtenhan,


Isenhour, Reid, Gott, & Frink 99


Santa Fe Events juan siddi flamenco theatre company (June 17-August 14, 2011) Experience the captivating mystery, majesty and beauty of the Juan Siddi Flamenco Theatre Company. Artistic director and choreographer Juan Siddi and his international company of gifted flamenco dancers and musicians present breathtaking, emotionally-charged performances with world-class artistry. santa fe wine festival at rancho de las golondrinas (July 2-3, 2011) Come enjoy the best of life at the 200-acre Spanish Colonial living history museum. Sample and purchase varietals from sixteen New Mexico wineries. Live music, food, traditional agricultural products, and handmade arts and crafts. 11th annual art santa fe (July 7-10, 2011) International galleries join with U.S. galleries to present a powerful collection of art from around the world. In addition to featuring the work of hundreds of artists, ART Santa Fe also presents a lecture series, and numerous cultural and educational events that make this event a highlight of the summer arts calendar.

santa fe international folk art market (July 8-10, 2011) Every year more than 120 select folk artists from more than 45 countries travel to Santa Fe to sell their weavings, woodcarvings, pottery, paintings, beadwork, jewelry and much more at the country's largest international folk art market. Thousands of visitors gather to admire and buy distinctive folk art that represent the world’s diverse cultures. the 60th annual traditional spanish market (July 30-31, 2011) The oldest and largest exhibition and sale of Spanish Colonial art forms in the United States. Featuring 300 traditional adult and youth artists, continuous music and dance, and demonstrations and regional foods, Spanish Market provides a unique opportunity to experience a taste of New Mexico’s vibrant Spanish culture, both past and present. sculpture objects & functional art fair, or sofa west (Aug 4-7, 2011) Critically acclaimed and continuously running since 1994, SOFA focuses on 3-dimensional artworks that encompass fine art, decorative art and design. SOFA is noted for its exceptional presentation and discriminating selection of international dealers. Shop for one-ofa-kind masterworks in handsome, custom-designed gallery exhibits. In 2011 SOFA will also present the Intuit Show of Folk and Outsider Art. 100

haciendas: a parade of homes (Aug 12-14 & 18-21, 2011) These new and remodeled homes present innovative design and technology to the public. The event, which coincides with Indian Market, showcases quality craftsmanship and unique designs. This self-guided tour is sponsored by the Santa Fe Area Home Builders Association.

the 90th annual santa fe indian market (Aug 20-21, 2011) Don’t miss this world-famous market that typically draws 100,000 visitors from around the globe. More than 1,000 artists sell their pottery, weaving, jewelry, basketry and other traditional work and demonstrate their time-honored techniques. Sample traditional Native American and southwest foods as you shop, and enjoy Pueblo dances, live music and other entertainment. fiesta de santa fe (Sep 8-11, 2011) The oldest community event in the U.S., Fiesta starts with the burning of Zozobra, a 50-foot tall marionette that represents Old Man Gloom. Fiesta continues with music, dancing, food, parades, religious ceremonies, and other events. Blending pageantry with revelry and treasured traditions, Fiesta is a favorite time for visitors and locals alike!

wine and chile fiesta (Sep 21-25, 2011) Devoted to the fruitful pairing of wine and chile, this annual fiesta has become a favorite of food and wine connoisseurs across the country. It features more than 110 wineries and nearly 50 Santa Fe chefs who participate in seminars, cooking demonstrations, guest chef luncheons, winemaker dinners, the famous Grand Food & Wine Tasting, and the Gruet Golf Classic.

design santa fe (Sep 30- Oct 8, 2011) Santa Fe Interior Designers Present (SFIDP) hosts this three-day event that takes place at various venues throughout the city of Santa Fe. Take part in the Home Tour, Design Dialogue and Luncheon, industry events, as well as parties and events hosted by local and regional businesses. All proceeds benefit the new Transitional Living Facility at the Youth Shelters of Santa Fe. harvest festival (Oct 1-2, 2011) Celebrate the harvest during this annual festival held in early October at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. Enjoy live music while you learn to string chile ristras, crush wine grapes by foot, and snack on fresh bizcochitos baked in an horno and tortillas cooked on a comal. canyon road paint out (Oct 15, 2011) Artists paint along Canyon Road as part of the Santa Fe Arts Festival (Oct 1531) which include the Santa Fe Film Festival, a symphony concert and other artistic events, all of which are sponsored by the Santa Fean magazine. or the santa fe film festival (TBA) The festival showcases films made in the Southwest, independent American-made narrative films, films made outside the U.S., and documentaries and art films celebrating the creative spirit. With a full schedule of workshops, panels, parties, and awards, the SF Film Festival has become an exciting and popular film event that appeals to professionals and fans alike. Market-goers visit one of the hundreds of booths at Spanish Market (above left) and Indian Market (right, photo by Chris Corrie). These two venerable summer events celebrate their 60th (Spanish Market) and 90th (Indian Market) Anniversaries in 2011!


canyon road farolito walk (Dec 24, 2011) This beloved holiday tradition lights up the hearts and souls of the crowds that walk this famous road every Christmas Eve. Hundreds of small sand-filled bags contain votive candles that line the streets and adobe walls. Their soft glow makes the night magical. It's no wonder the farolito walk has become a treasured part of this sacred season. new mexico centennial On January 6, 1912, New Mexico became the 47th State in the U.S. Beginning on August 28, 2011, and continuing throughout 2012, communities statewide will commemorate one hundred years of New Mexico statehood by telling stories of the past, and envisioning the state’s next hundred years. new mexico state backgammon championship (Jan 27-29, 2012) Ed Bennett and the Backgammon Club of Santa Fe are honored to sponsor this tournament in Santa Fe. This third annual sanctioned American Backgammon Tour (ABT) tournament will be held at the La Posada Hotel.

ARTfeast (Feb 24-26, 2012) Now in its 15th season, the weekend of festivities celebrates the City Different’s worldclass chefs and restaurants, an international array of vintners, original designer fashions and unique homes, along with nationally prominent artists represented by members of the Santa Fe Gallery Association. All proceeds go to the Santa Fe public school art programs, college scholarships, and FACT (see pages 240-241). Enjoy this weekend extravaganza of art and cuisine!

BECKI BANET • Specializing in commissions • Donor Acknowledgement • Legacy Art for milestones & personal passages • Experiential Workshop Facilitator • Collaborators & Designers Welcome Santa Fe, NM • 317.752.0558


“Becoming” sculptural copper textile mixed media

Represented by InArt, Santa Fe


Brian Yatsattie

Salvador Romer o

Lena Boone

Gomeo Bobelu

now showing at


the zuni connection 227 don gaspar avenue 505.989.8728






S a n bus c o M ark et C ent er i n f o @ m e r c e d e s v e l a r d e . c o m 5 00 Mont ez uma S t reet w w w . m e r c e d e s v e l a r d e . c o m S ant a Fe, N M 87501 5 0 5 -2 1 6 -7 7 6 9

HELENN Contemporar y Fine Ar t Fiber & Stitcher y

Celtic Vision, creative stitchery-fiber, 16 x 16 x ½ inches

H e l e n n J. R u m p e l F i n e A Rt S t u d i o l u m i n o u s i m ag i n at i v e i m ag e r y, F i n e A r t F i b e r, S t i t c h e r y & pa i n t i n g 8 F l o r e s t a D r i v e, P O B ox 1 5 5 2 , S a n t a F e, N M 8 7 5 0 4 by a p p o i n t m e n t 5 0 5 . 4 6 6 . 0 5 1 7 h e l e n n h u e @ e a r t h l i n k . n e t


Sheri Okun

The Edge of Time, oil on canvas, 48 x 48�

Santa Fe Artist 106 505.474.4343

Anamorph, oil on canvas, 48 x 36”

Sheri Okun Le Jardin, oil on canvas, 48 x 36” 107

Folk Arts of Poland 118 Don Gaspar Ave. Santa Fe, NM 87501 505 984-9882

Madonna & Child by Tadeusz Kacalak

Contemporary Polish Folk Art Boleslawiec Ceramics Amber Jewelry & Specimens Double Warp Textiles 18th & 19th C. Orthodox Icons 1970s Polish Folk Art Sculptures 108

Cafe Pasqual’s Gallery

Mica Clay Cookware by Felipe Ortega, Brian Grossnickle and Lorenzo Mendez

Also Representing Leovigildo Martinez Paintings, Graphics and Sculpture LeeAnn Herreid Iconic Jewelry Carlos Glass Reverse Glass Painting David Parsons Wood Carvings Rick Phelps Paper Mache

“Yes, you really can cook with these clay pots on top the stove, in the oven and in the microwave.” Katharine Kagel, Chef and Owner Located upstairs next door to Cafe Pasqual’s • 103 East Water Street, Second Floor Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 • 505.983.9340 • 800.722.7672 email: • • OPEN DaiLy 10 am to 5 pm 109

Artist Directory Abbate, Anthony pp. 96-97, 210, 288 & Back Cover Abrums, Gabriel p. 282 Acton, Tana p. 150 Agrich, Lyudmila p. 53 Albracht, Gregg Inside Front Cover Allen, Ron p.71 Anna p. 45 Appleleaf, Martha pp. 260 & 282 Ash, Robert pp. 72-73 Atti, Patrizia p. 45 Axton, John p. 68 Bagshaw, Margarete p. 115 Baker, Martha Rea p. 64 Baldwin, Philip pp. 10 & Front Cover Banet, Becki p. 102 Baques, Josep p. 80 Barny, T p. 63 Beals, Gary p. 64 Beason, Nick p. 269 Becker-Black, Johanna p. 150 Bettison, Giles p. 59 Bezuidenhout, Karen p. 82 Blake, Lavera p. 282 Bobelu, Gomeo p. 103 Bodelson, Dan p. 48 Bogdanoff, Steve p. 99 Boger, Christyl p. 4 Boggess, Lynn p. 4 Boone, Lena p. 103 Boone, Steven p. 84 Boulanger p.80 Bowers, Bradley p. 99 Box, Kevin p. 86 Boyer, Eric pp. 62-63 Buechley, Larry p. 268 Buechley, Nancy p. 268


Bueno, Giner p. 79 Burt, Robert p. 75 Cameron, Sheena p. 288 Candelaria, Doug p. 285 Cardona-Hine, Alvaro p. 271 Carson, Andrew p. 75 Carson, Kit p. 150 Cassidy, Jane p. 249 Cermanski, Andrea p. 99 Changjang, Feng p. 17 Chavez, Jane p. 94 Childers-West p. 90 Chrisman, Michelle p. 50 Coffin, Douglas p. 255 Cole, Carolyn p. 99 Conway, Nigel p. 43 Corbin, Tom p. 95 Cornell, Matthew p. 4 Crain - Jager, Sally p. 99 Cronin, Susan Reed p. 63 Cullar, Warren p. 75 Dant, Joyce p. 249 Datz, Stephen C p. 285 Davenport, Jennifer p. 45 Dear, David p. 143 DeBusk, Barret p. 99 Delap - John, Sally p. 273 Delattre, Pierre p. 279 Dern, Jourdan p. 17 Derrer, Suzanne p. 150 DeVary, David p. 17 Di Fronzo, Francis p. 4 Dobson, Grace Maria Garcia p. 274 Donazetti, Suzanne p. 91 Dover, Annie p. 33 Ek, Jan Van p. 17 Emani, Michael p. 45

Ethridge, Michael p. 90 Fadhli, Dr. p. 82 Fairchild, Valerie pp. 122-123 Fairfield, Luis p. 17 Fasani, Ruben p. 99 Felix, Sushe p. 82 Felix, Tracy p. 82 Fender, Eric p. 282 Fishman, Beverly p. 6 Folwell, Gail p. 63 Forman, Geoffre p. 59 Foster, Heather p. 31 Foust, Charlotte p. 63 Frantz-Sugarman, Christie pp. 67-68 Freda, Britt p. 95 Frink, Ken p. 99 Furlow, Malcolm p. 45 Gall, Ted p. 63 Gannon, Joshua pp. 71 & 251 Garcia, Robert p. 17 Garcia, Tammy p. 1 Ging, Linda J. p. 42 Glass, Carlos p. 109 Gold, Carol p. 94 Gorman, RC p. 17 Gott, Susan p. 99 Gottlieb, Adrian p. 77 Gould, Mark p. 95 Green, Lance p. 288 Grossnickle, Brian p. 109 Guess, Jan p. 45 Guggisberg, Monica pp. 10 & Front Cover Gusterman, Britt p. 141 Gusterman, Kerstin p. 141 Hagan, Carol p. 11 Hamil, Joyce p. 285 Hanks, Steve p. 17


Copyright Margarete Bagshaw


PABLITA VELARDE (1918 - 2006) 201 Galisteo St., Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 - 505-988-2024 -

*Golden Dawn Gallery is the Exclusive Representative of the Estates of Helen Hardin and Pablita Velarde 111


Copyright Cradoc Bagshaw


Helen Hardin (1943 - 1984) 201 Galisteo St., Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 - 505-988-2024 -

*Golden Dawn Gallery is the Exclusive Representative of the Estates of Helen Hardin and Pablita Velarde 112

Artist Directory Hardin, Helen p. 112 Harding, Tim p. 59 Harris, Gregory Frank p. 63 Hart, Noel p. 59 Harvey, Sheldon p. 245 Henderson, K p. 94 Henri, Robert p. 36 Hepler, Sally p. 64 Hermes, Nick p. 53 Herried, LeeAnn p. 109 Hert, Judith p. 267 Higginbotham, Matthew p. 88 Hiroshige, Ando p. 14 Hokusai, Katsushika p. 14 Holien, Elaine p. 64 Holmes, Elodie p. 184 Holt, Lisa p. 36 Howell, Frank p. 17 Huber, Akiva p. 45 Hudson, Andree p. 89 Hutchinson, Deborah p. 99 Isenhour, Natasha p. 99 Jackson, Julian p. 64 Jones, Damien pp. 72-73 Jones, Jennifer J.L. p. 63 Joseph, Jennifer p. 36 Kacalak, Tadeusz p. 108 Kapp, Phyllis pp. 87 & 294 Karin, Anna pp. 265-266 Keffer, Jim p. 288 Keller, Sandy p. 94 Kelley, Carol p. 45 Kelly, S.M. p. 252 Kennedy, Martha p. 74 Khandro, Sherab p. 17 King, Bruce p. 89 Kippenbrock, Wanda p. 45

Klein, Michael p. 77 Knowlton, David P. p. 36 Kosorukov, Valery p. 60 Krusko, Peter p. 94 Kung, Irene p. 13 Kuniyoshi, Utagawa p. 14 Lamb, Darlis p. 30 Landrum, Dale p. 83 Landsiedel, John p. 99 Lane, Tracey p. 93 LaRoche, Carole pp. 71 & 295 Larson, Hal p. 63 Laughing, Charlene p. 260 Lawrence, Brent p. 94 Laws, Robin J. p. 50 Lazarus, Julie p. 99 Lea, MeLissa p.17 Lichtenhan, Phillip p. 99 Linch, Lisa p. 92 Lippincott, Janet (Estate of) p. 64 Livsey Wells, Robert pp. 72-73 Lobato, Emilio p. 36 Long-Postal, Mary p. 64 Loyd, Bill G. p. 265 Lujan, Ira, p. 99 Lujan, Lee pp. 260 & 282 Lynch, Sydney p. 150 Madzo, Michael p. 63 Mallmann, Arturo p. 25 Mans, Martha p. 64 Marcus p. 99 Mares, Shelbee p. 45 Marin, Javier p. 4 Martinez, Hector p. 45 Martinez, Leovigildo p. 109 Martinez, Miguel p. 17 Matthews, Patrick p. 88

Mauro, Gary p. 17 McConnaughhay, Nori p. 94 McElwain, Louisa p. 5 McGivern, Peggy p. 285 Mears, Terry p. 17 Meer, Kurt p. 64 Meikle, Barbara p. 74 Mendez, Lorenzo p. 109 Metier, Amy p. 64 Meunier p. 78 Mickelsen, Robert p. 99 Milan, Pablo Antonio p. 17 Mills, Gigi pp. 36 & 86 Moore, James p. 94 Moore, Roxann p. 94 Morris, Iva p. 63 Morrissey, Patrick p. 98 Mosedale, Andrew p. 99 Murray, Tom p. 35 Namingha, Arlo p. 8 Namingha, Dan pp. 9 & 36 Namingha, Michael p. 8 Naranjo, Sharon p. 260 Neary, John p. 72-73 Nieto, John p. 69 Noblique, Nick p. 75 Noice, Marshall p. 87 O'Brien, Willsea p. 99 O'Hagan, Desmond p. 34 O'Neal, Carla p. 279 Okun, Sheri pp. 106-107 Olson, Richard p. 249 Ortega, Felipe p. 109 Ortenstone, Nancy p. 279 Oteri, John p. 51 Oviedo, Marco A. p. 262 Parsons, David p. 109


Artist Directory Pennock, Angela p. 59 Perkins, Flo pp. 13 & 36 Petter, Gugger p. 59 Phadke, Sangita p. 36 Pham, Kang p. 3 Phelps, Rick p. 109 Phill, Daniel p. 64 Pijoan, Randy p. 32 Pippin, Aleta pp. 39 & 75 Pollard, Anne p. 45 Potter, Richard p. 98 Poulsen, Lise p. 269 Price, Lee p. 4 Rapp, Manfred p. 52 Reano, Harlan p. 36 Regier, Arlie p. 84 Regier, David p. 84 Reid, James p.137 Reiss, Roland p. 6 Revilla, Justo p. 78 Reyner, Nancy p. 39 Richardson, Reid p. 99 Riggs, Kathy p. 275 Ringholz, Amy p. 94 Rippel, John p. 127 Rivera, George p. 2 Rivera, Robert p. 242 Rogers, Robert p. 94 Romero, Carla p. 17 Romero, Gilberto p. 74 Romero, Salvador p. 103 Rosen, Richard p. 45 Rosenfeld, Ken p. 99 Rumpel, Helenn J. p. 105 Sanders, Janice p. 99 Santos, Jorge p. 4 Sawyer, Kat p. 249


Saxe, Mark p. 257 Scott, Brian Keith p. 99 Seckler, Frank p. 238 Segal, Fran p. 71 Segrelles, Eustaquio p. 79 Shank, Stephanie p. 99 Shchukin, Yvegeni p. 61 Shiels, Patrick p. 81 Shwaiko, Jill pp. 71 & 248 Signorelli, Jane pp. 72-73 Smithey, Vanita p. 64 Soffer, Alan p. 39 Spei, Martin p. 43 Spencer, Jett p. 150 St. Vrain, Theresia p. 150 Stanczak, Julian p. 7 Stanfield, Shelly Lewis p. 43 Stapper, Cindy p. 275 Stevens, Rick p. 63 Stoner, Jim p. 269 Sugarman, Michael pp. 67-68 Swab, Laurel p. 64 Swain, Robert p. 6 Swinney, Carol p. 94 Tafoya, Judy p. 260 Tafoya, Lincoln p. 260 Taylor, Cydney p. 283 Taylor, Robert p. 94 Tejada, Leslie p. 63 Thomas, Jinni p. 64 Thomson, Christopher p. 26 Tipton, David p. 275 Tobey, Jami p. 94 Tobey, Joshua p. 94 Tobey, Rebecca p. 68 Tolman, Kevin p. 64 Trujillo, Lisa p. 263

Turri, Chris p. 91 Van Dame, Sue p. 252 Velarde, Mercedes p. 104 Velarde, Pablita p. 111 Vogt, Russ p. 207 Vohn, Joan p. 63 Voss, Sandy p. 70 Walker Moore p. 94 Watts, Alex p. 25 Weigel, Jeane George p. 270 Wells, C.J. p. 17 White, Mark p. 57 Whitehorse, Emmi p. 13 Wiger, Ray p. 17 Williams, Betsy p. 257 Williams, Kent p. 4 Williams, Roger p. 49 Wilson, Pamela p. 4 Winnegar, Simon p. 52 Wojtkiewicz, Dennis p. 29 Wolf, Ray p. 74 Wright, Ben p. 17 Wynn, Allen p. 71 Yang, Pei p. 83 Yatsattie, Brian p. 103 Yearwood, Mark pp. 72-73 Ziegen, Pauline p. 64 Zimmerman, Shana p. 48 Zingaro p. 45


Margarete Bagshaw

Copyright Margarete Bagshaw


201 Galisteo St., Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 - 505-988-2024 -

*Golden Dawn Gallery is the Exclusive Representative of the Estates of Helen Hardin and Pablita Velarde 115

Yohji Yamamoto Issey Miyake Dries Van Noten Eskandar Etro Donna Karan Rundholz Missoni Annette Gรถrtz Pauw Elm Design featured

53 Old Santa Fe Trail On The Plaza (505) 983-8142 116

essential style fashion + jewelry


CLOTH: The Currency of Culture

Leather top and jacket by Susan Riedweg Beaded earrings by Julie Powell Organza Scarf by Nuno photo: Studio Seven


124½ Galisteo • Santa Fe NM 87501 505-982-1737 •


by Leon & Pamela Morrison

Long before 1821, when the Santa Fe Trail became the commercial link between the East and the far West, Santa Fe was at the crossroads of commerce and trade. In fact, for hundreds of years before the town was “rediscovered” and inspired the collections of such influential fashion designers as Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa, it was a key mercantile center on historic trade routes.


Santa Fe’s “threads” are like no others: they are deeply rooted in the history and superb craftsmanship of the Southwest. Add to those threads original design and keen-eyed, independent merchants who select the best of the best, and the result is world-class shopping. For those seeking something beyond the corporate, cookie-cutter shopping experience, Santa Fe offers a unique venue for eclectic hunting and gathering.


anta Fe is largely populated by autonomous retailers. By definition, independents fill their shelves with highly original and adventuresome goods. This alone distinguishes shopping here from the typical urban and suburban retail drudgery, yet shopping in Santa Fe also provides an opportunity to explore the city’s historical landscape. And for those unfortunate few who don’t like to shop, just tagging along with a shopper has its bonuses. It’s good exercise, of course, but viewing the architecture in Santa Fe is an education. You can explore the city’s narrow alleyways and irregular stone and brick walkways off the Old Santa Fe Trail in the Barrio de Analco historic district. You may end up at the oldest church in the United States, dating from 1610, or nearby at “the oldest house.” Santa Fe’s street culture itself provides enjoyable, relatively free entertainment: fascinating people watching that includes its own special assortment of bohemians and musical eccentrics. The heart of Santa Fe, which is where most of the galleries, restaurants, boutiques and museums are, can be explored on foot. Three areas, all within walking distance of the town center, provide the greatest shopping and density and variety: downtown (near and around the central Plaza), the recently redeveloped Railyard, and the internationally acclaimed Canyon Road. Each has its own character, but they are unified by an overall sense of place. The Plaza and Downtown Area Start downtown in Sena Plaza, a block from the Plaza. Built as a residence around 1830 for a successful merchant, Don Juan Sena, his wife, and their 23 children, the rambling compound today houses several dozen locally owned businesses. (A bonus: In late spring and summer, its shady courtyard is awash in bright poppies, hollyhocks, roses, and other colorful, fragrant flowers.) Sena Plaza is home to Goler, a footwear and handbag boutique that offers a feast of fashion. International designer Donald Pliner makes regular pilgrimages here for Goler’s trunk shows. The men’s part of the store carries Clarks of England, a line which is both modern and retro. Together, Goler's men's and women’s collections easily boast three or four dozen fashion-forward brands. While on East Palace Avenue, visit Gusterman Silversmiths. Carrying on the family business begun in 1950, the Gusterman sisters are known for their sensuous “string” (sliver strand) rings, bracelets and earrings. Their jewelry’s simple, elegant, refined lines reflect Britt and Kirstin’s Scandinavian heritage. They continue to evolve and create timeless pieces, and annual visitors return again and again to view the newest interpretations. Shopping for buckles and belts? Almost directly across Palace Avenue from Sena Plaza is James Reid, Ltd., one of the city’s best-known sources for silver and gold buckles, jewelry, and accessories. Reid’s beautifully designed and 120

executed men’s and women’s accouterments embody the style of the West, while his contemporary, classic pieces would suit any corporate executive. The store has the quiet elegance of a gallery and, in fact, includes a large backroom gallery for the work of renowned Russian landscape painter, Felix Voltsinger. At the west end of the block is Santa Fe Dry Goods, a women’s and men’s fashion retailer known for its designer collections from Europe and Japan. The shop is a purveyor of high-end, fashion-forward apparel, yet its selections are wearable enough to delight locals, seasonal visitors and tourists. Stroll across the intersection to the walkway beneath the Governor’s Palace portal. Here, Native Americans spread their blankets and display thousands of handmade items for sale: intricately beaded key-ring fobs, sterling silver squash blossom necklaces, and turquoise bracelets and earrings, to name just a few. On the southeast corner of the Plaza, at San Francisco Street and Old Santa Fe Trail, sits La Fonda, a landmark and historic Harvey House hotel. It houses two of Santa Fe’s finest creators of exceptional sterling silver accessories and leather goods, Tom Taylor, and Rippel and Company, along with an exceptional purveyor of antique and estate jewelry, silver and crystal, and objets d’art, Things Finer. If you need to know the provenance of antique crystal, an Art Deco brooch, or your grandmother’s Victorian silver, a visit to Things Finer is a must. Tom Taylor, who originally made saddles, bridles and show horse trophy buckles, and his superb craftsmen fashion contemporary and Southwestern silver buckles, as well as finely detailed belts. Some buckles are inlayed with semiprecious stones. Men won’t want to overlook the bolo ties, cufflinks, and money clips. Women will want to check out the beautifully modern jewelry, as well as the contemporary and western bags and totes. At Rippel and Company’s shop and on-site workroom, visitors will often see master silversmith John Rippel. An artist, craftsman, outdoorsman, and storyteller, Rippel began making inventive and thematic sterling jewelry nearly 40 years ago. His inspiration? Working in Santa Fe as an anthropologist, he fell in love with Museum Hill’s original Native American collections of crafted silver and turquoise. Across San Francisco Street from La Fonda is O’Farrell Hat Company. O’Farrell’s offers such an extraordinary assortment of custom headwear that it can make “hat wearers” out of men and women who previously never considered it. And for hat connoisseurs and collectors, it’s a destination not to be missed. Santa Fe’s Lucchese shop is one of only two exclusively Lucchese stores in the US. In the summer of 2011 they will be in their new location on the Plaza. The knowledgeable staff is always willing to explain how the Lucchese family built its business based on the essential fit of their boots. And with their boots’ carefully selected leathers and fine stitching, it’s easy to see why their footwear is legendary. Some of their classic men’s boots are as suitable for dress as for casual wear. Their contemporary fashion boots for women are eye-catching. While at Lucchese, check out the bold selection of real western shirts, belts, and belt buckles, too. West of the Plaza on San Francisco is the Lensic Performing Arts Center. Opened in 1931 as a movie and vaudeville theater, the Lensic, with its majestic 121



Spanish façade and opulent interior, has been meticulously restored and transformed into a world-class nonprofit performing arts center. In 2001 it became a venue for local, national, and international music, dance and other cultural events. On the same street as the Lensic is the custom jewelry house of Fairchild & Co. This intimate boutique showcases a broad inventory, but can also design one-of-a-kind pieces. Be delighted by ancient coin pendants and rings, charms that honor Native Pueblo culture, and romantic wedding bands and commitment rings. Stylish women’s apparel and fine accessories go together. Fortunately, the City Different boasts an unequalled variety of fashion entrepreneurs, as well. Eveningwear from Laura Sheppherd Salon de Couture has graced the red carpets of the Golden Globes and the Academy Awards. For the most discerning clientele, the salon offers custom designed dresses and gowns. Ready-to-wear collections include breathtaking evening and bridal gowns, coats, embroidered jackets, hand-dyed silks and hand-knit sweaters. Sheppherd’s creations can be found in the closets of an international clientele that includes socialites, businesswomen, brides, opera divas and prima ballerinas. Both Santa Fe Weaving Gallery and Handwoven Originals offer superb, handwoven textiles in the form of jackets, tops, scarves and coats. These garments lend themselves to fashionable layering in virtually any climate. Take time to examine the techniques and materials used in their fine wearable art. Santa Fe Weaving Gallery, on Galisteo Street, not only offers classic textile applications, but is a vanguard of new ones. Seasonally this art gallery/shop unveils new 124

items created by the regional and world weavers and designers it represents. The Inn and Spa at Loretto, a short walk east of the Plaza, is home to Handwoven Originals. It was one of America’s first collaborative weaving businesses recognized for meshing timeless techniques with current fashion. Expect to be greeted and waited upon by a knowledgeable host who can provide firsthand information about workmanship and design. Key wardrobe pieces, along with hats and scarves, wool, silk, and cotton chenille items, are artfully presented along with inspired, often unique jewelry. Just a few doors down dip into the past at Faircloth and Adams, a shop that gives new meaning to “vintage.” Here you’ll find a delightful array of authentic folk art, antique American furniture, delicate vintage fabrics, and finely tailored women’s shirting and bedclothes. On the other hand, if “elegantly rumpled, romantic, adventurous, yet unabashedly feminine” describes your style, head for Homefrocks, also on Old Santa Fe Trail. Although its graceful silk and linen garments are diaphanous and hand-dyed, including dyed to order, every piece is machine washable. A few blocks northwest of the Plaza, on McKenzie, is World Class Watches. It features both new and vintage wristwatches. Ball, Hamilton, Longines, Omega and Rolex are but a few brands in their current inventory. Customers can also bring or send ailing timepieces to owner and master watchmaker David Perlowin for repairs or referrals. The Railyard A short walk west and south of downtown is The Railyard, a largely city-sponsored, redeveloped district. Once dotted with lumberyards and warehouses, it is now

photo: Tina Larkin

james perse current elliot chan luu rundholz lilith elizabeth & james L.A.M.B. velvet BCBG james jeans virgins, saints & angels hobo spanx tokyo milk nicole miller prairie underground alchemy haute hippie sarah pacini leifsdottir and so much more...


102 Dona Luz Taos, NM 575-751-0992


home to contemporary art galleries, the Santa Fe Farmer’s Market, newly constructed, sleek, mixed-use work/ live space, and a growing number of innovative retailers who have expanded the shopping horizon in Santa Fe.

own pieces, Melfi carries creations of a dozen other jewelry makers. Her adjoining shop carries ceramics and a carefully selected mix of eclectic wearable art, such as richly textured shawls and cover-ups.

Casa Nova imports a robust spectrum of “New African” arts, crafts and handmade goods that help provide livelihoods for individuals and communities across Africa. The store features jewelry, home furnishings, personal and decorative accessories.

Looking for a 20-carat diamond or rare rubies? A contemporary or vintage watch? One-of-a-kind turquoise or coral Native American jewelry? At Jewel Mark, owners Rita and Michael Linder offer these treasures and more. You can also consult with their senior master jeweler or gemologist. Right next door, Sugarman Gallery offers contemporary precious stone and metal jewelry created by international award-winning designers Michael Sugarman and his wife, Christie Frantz-Sugarman. In addition, their gallery showcases a discerning mix of art, paintings and jewelry by other award-winning designers.

The source in the Railyard for bold, stylish, and youthful designs, Daniella integrates East and West Coast fashion with European and Asian style. Think designer denim, knitwear, and exclusive dress collections that offer a new definition of Santa Fe chic. The store itself is comfortable, opulent and modern, all at the same time. Canyon Road In addition to the downtown Plaza environs and The Railyard, lower Canyon Road is not to be missed. The base of Canyon Road is about four blocks east and south of the Plaza. Over time this former mule trail evolved into a residential street, and in the early-20th century became home to artists and their studios, and later craftsmen and their shops. Historic residences, some open to the public, are tucked among galleries, restaurants and boutiques. Canyon Road projects authentic Santa Fe, past and present, because today this enclave features some of Santa Fe’s most enticing shopping. Travelling on foot is the best way to enjoy not only the shopping, but also to view Canyon Road’s architectural subtleties and semi-hidden, walled gardens. In the first block are Karen Melfi’s two enterprises. The Karen Melfi Collection is devoted to jewelry, from sublime to whimsical, much of it embellished with precious stones and natural-colored diamonds. In addition to her 126

Continuing up Canyon Road, you may want to stop at Nathalie’s to pose for a souvenir photo of yourself in front of the rubble masonry wall and skeletal iron tepee. But step inside the shop and—voila!—a remarkable fusion of Parisian sophistication and the wild, wild West. Nathalie Kent has brought her French sense of style and taste to the City Different. From vintage vests to couture rodeo wear, she selects each piece. Look around and you’ll see rare, collectible silver jewelry and buckles, hand-tooled latigo leather handbags, belts, and boots, not to mention books about cowboy culture and the history of the West. Before leaving, wander towards the back to discover antique lighting, delicate china and beautiful paintings. Towards the top of Canyon Road, in a pitched roof building across the street from one of Santa Fe's finest restaurants, Geronimo, is Desert Son of Santa Fe. Upon entering, you inhale the rich leather aroma that emanates from the fabulous selection of handbags, footwear, jackets and belts. These fine leather goods are from as



photo: Wendy McEahern & Parasol Productions

Jewelry • Gifts • Accessories • Home

111 Old Santa Fe Trail

Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.986.9115 127

far away as Italy and Belgium, and in the case of handmade western boots, from as near as Texas. There is an on-site custom belt workshop. Sterling silver buckles and jewelry twinkle in the cases. The warm, relaxed atmosphere encourages leisurely shopping, and the friendly staff encourages questions about the quality and fabrication of items they sell. While in Taos, check out Substance, a chic women’s specialty store. In addition to quality women’s sportswear, apparel, handbags, and hair accessories, owner Molly Massen carries designer bedding, apothecary and cosmetics. Almost across the street is Andean Software (a second location is up in the Ski Valley), famed for finely made weavings, soft alpaca fibers, rich colors and high quality textiles from all over the world. Owner Andrea Heckman selects each piece personally when she returns annually to meet with her artisans and suppliers. In the world of casual and practical fashion, Taos’ Blue Fish Clothing is the epitome of fun and whimsical wearables. Hand stamped with hand-carved block prints, their attire has an easy fit and contemporary style. Fabrics are organic and eco-friendly.

turally intriguing environments. From the classic to the exotic, and from the whimsical to the most subtle and refined, treasures await the discerning shopper.  JamesReid-EG0809-ad:Layout 1

The past and current careers of fulltime Santa Feans Leon and Pamela Morrison make them eminently qualified to share their opinions about shopping. Her background includes work as a stylist and casting director for the Neiman-Marcus Christmas Book and fashion catalogs, and providing “paint decoration” for leading interior designers and private collectors. Now a painter, she shows her work in a local gallery. Leon began his career in luxury multi-store retailing. Later he started three companies, each of which he sold profitably. Today, he is a retailing consultant who assists with store design and product design, pricing, distribution, marketing, and more. His top-of-the-line clients include retailers of every sort, as well as restaurants, hotels, clubs, and spas. Dozens of personal and business guests visit the Morrisons every year, and all of them ask about their favorite places and new shops to explore.

11:50 AM

THREADS IMAGES in order: Detail of blouses, Dancing Ladies; Kashmiri shawl, Laura Sheppherd; quilt, Faircloth & Adams; rare carmel banded 18K onyx & diamond necklace, Sugarman Gallery; Classic boots, Lucchese; Carole Waller shirt, Santa Fe Weaving Gallery; custom belt buckle, James Reid, Ltd. atalogue®

Today, as in the past, the independent shop owners of Santa Fe and Taos offer a superb variety of goods, inventively presented in architec128


photo: jim arndt









ART 129

Featuring Dress to Kill

225 Canyon Road Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505-982-3032 130

Photo: Wendy McEahern & Parasol Productions

Iron, Gold and Diamonds by Karen Melfi 131

Dancing Ladies

Visit our new Canyon Road location 667 Canyon Road Santa Fe, New Mexico 505.988.1100 877.866.1100 132

photo: Wendy McEahern & Parasol Productions

one-of-a-kind wearable art

photo: Eric Swanson & Parasol Productions

115 Don Gaspar Santa Fe, NM 505-984-0040 800-784-0038 goldeneyesanta 133




photo: David Marlow & Parasol Productions

Three Decades of Handcrafted Excellence



111 E. San Francisco St.

Santa Fe, NM 87501


photo: Eric Swanson

Exceptionally Rare Burma Rubies

233 Canyon Road, Suite 1 Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505/820-6304 Open Daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. jewelmark@qwestofďŹ 138

JBrand James Perse Alice + Olivia Genetic Denim Joie Rebecca Taylor Ella Moss Wildfox exclusively at daniella

Market Station at the Railyard 500 Market Street

Santa Fe

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Representing 140

725 Canyon Road

Santa Fe

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Photo: Wendy McEahern & Parasol Productions

126 East Palace Avenue Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 505.982.8972 Monday - Saturday: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday: 12 p.m. to 4 p.m.



575.776.2508 TEL/FAX 575.77



David Dear Classic Elegance Since 1969 21 Miles North of Santa Fe on Hwy 285

photo: Eric Swanson


Also showing in Santa Fe at Packard’s on the Plaza. 143

photo: Julien McRoberts

inspired clothing designed in santa fe


611 old santa fe trail santa fe, nm 87505 505.986.5800

World Class Watches haut e h o r lo ge r i e Authorized Dealer: Ball • Hamilton Pre-owned: Patek Philippe Rolex • Omega • Cartier

32 4 Mc Ken z ie St . Sa nt a Fe, NM 87501 505.992 .02 00 watc hworks@ prodig y.n et w w w.wc w tim 145

Laura Sheppherd salon de couture

beautiful textile jackets sweaters social occasion wedding accessories ready to wear or custom design 146

photo: santagto

65 west marcy street santa fe, nm 87501 505.986.1444

photo: Jim Arndt & Parasol Productions


Named Best Boot Store both in value & inventory in Santa Fe. – Conde Nast Traveler Magazine 2011 –

across from the Train Depot

Over 5000 used, vintage and new boots. Plus hats, shirts and much more. 345 West Manhattan Ave. across from the Train Depot 505.984.1256 • • 148

BELTS BUCKLES ACCESSORIES 108 East San Francisco Street Santa Fe NM 87501 800 303-9733


Theresia St.Vrain

Johanna Becker Black


Sydney Lynch

A Santa FE Landmark for truly unique & original designer jewelry, sculptural lighting & other gems for your home Jett Spencer

Tana Acton Kit Carson

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© Suzanne Derrer



essential lodging + dining + weddings


Culinary Cocktails No one ever rhapsodizes, “Gee, what a memorable vodka and tonic we had before dinner last night!” In contrast to old stand-bys such as vodka and tonic, “culinary cocktails” offer a truly unforgettable start to a fine dining experience. Quinn Stephenson, Master Mixologist of Geronimo and Coyote Café, is convinced guests are more likely to have a memorable experience with a signature cocktail. After all, how could one ever forget a cocktail chilled with lavender ice cubes, or a drink poured tableside over flaming rosemary? Mixologist isn’t just a fancy word for bartender. Rather, a mixologist can be thought of as a cocktail “chef,” whose job is to create new drinks. Using fresh fruits and vegetables, especially seasonal ones, unusual and surprising ingredients, and inventive techniques, mixologists elevate cocktail creation to an art. Mixologist Stephenson insists their restaurants’ four-page cocktail menus be beautiful, hardly surprising since he views those menus as important as their wine list. Guests who had not planned to have a cocktail find themselves intrigued, and with good reason. Some of Stephenson’s innovative cocktails are served in edible shot glasses. “Mist” wafts from dry-ice martinis. Salted lime foam accents margaritas. Pearls of blood-orange flower water dance in cold champagne. Blueberry-lemon drops that change colors, “dirty martinis” with an olive brine cloud floating atop—well, it’s easy to see why so many dinner guests decide they simply must try one of these dazzling and delicious creations. Several of Geronimo’s cocktails are cleverly concocted to complement the restaurant’s French-Asian fare. They incorporate flavors such as lemongrass, Thai coconut milk, lychee, and jasmine. Cocktails made with these ingredients are particularly delightful as accompaniments to certain of the starters, but they can also be enjoyed without food, as aperitifs. Coyote Café’s cocktail menu highlights avant-garde techniques. The term “molecular gastronomy” generally refers to food, but Stephenson adapts this concept to the making of cocktails, in what he calls “molecular mixology.” His cutting-edge cocktails suit perfectly the vibrant bar scene at Coyote Café. With the opening of The Den, the restaurant’s “ultimate cocktail lounge” and Stephenson’s trailblazing cocktails, Coyote Café is setting the standard for unique cocktails in an inviting setting. Anyone care for blood-orange Negroni with a dash of Campari dust gracing the rim?  To read more about Quinn's amazing concoctions, Coyote's Executive Chef/Owner Eric DiStefano, and many other phenomenal chefs' inspirations and creations, go to Above: The "Señorita" by Quinn Stephenson Previous page: Executive Chef Charles Dale's signature scallop dish at Terra at Encantado Resort and Spa 154



Here Comes the Bride...

to Santa Fe & Taos!

A starry-eyed couple in wedding attire, soft music, lush flowers, glowing candles, chilled champagne, a lovely cake... and chile? Well, yes! New Mexico has long been a favorite location for destination weddings, and understandably so. For recent brides’ perspective on their weddings here, The Essential Guide surveyed half a dozen of them. The number of wedding guests ranged from 60 to 400, with most between 110 and 135. They were warm weather weddings, other than one on New Year’s Eve weekend. (The astute bride reasoned that guests would be available since it was a holiday!) Wedding headquarters for our Santa Fe brides included La Fonda (downtown), Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort, Encantado Resort and Spa, and Buffalo Thunder Resort (all a short drive from Santa Fe). Our Taos bride selected El Monte Sagrado as her “wedding central.” More than one bride commented that the minute she saw a particular venue, she felt an instant connection and knew it was the right place. Another wrote, “I fell in love with the space [La Fonda’s Terrace] and just knew this was where we should get married.” “Why did you choose the Land of Enchantment for your wedding? For whom was your wedding a destination wedding?” Two brides report their wedding was a destination for the entire wedding party and all guests, while one said it was a destination only for her family and friends. A bride from Santa Fe wanted to be married “back in my hometown.” Yet another bride recounted that she and her fiancé “spent time in Santa Fe as children and young adults on vacations.” Two brides became engaged here—one in Santa Fe and one in Taos—making those cities logical choices for their weddings. Another bride related, “We live in New Mexico and love it here, and since this is our home (and where we met), we really never considered anywhere else. We also knew that most of our out-of-town guests and family would make Santa Fe part of their trip anyway, so we figured it would make the perfect spot.” Smart thinking! A New York bride who chose La Fonda as her wedding headquarters expressed the sentiments of several of the brides: “We chose Santa Fe...because it is Southwestern chic, and it has a rich culture, beautiful scenery, rich history and close proximity to casinos, galleries, restaurants and bars. Santa Fe offered a different experience for my guests, a good number of whom were from the East Coast and had never been to the Southwest. The sky is blue, the air is clean, the people are friendly, the chile is delicious, the Plaza is quaint, and the view is just plain gorgeous. What more could you want!” The Taos bride echoed similar sentiments. “The location of our wedding in Taos set the tone for the entire weekend. It’s a sacred little town with a funky atmosphere and intimate vibe. Guests enjoyed every aspect of Taos, from walking through the Plaza, to visiting the Pueblo, to taking in the sights at the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, to a day trip to the Taos Ski Valley.” As noted, most brides married at temperate times of year. The one who chose winter said the snow and luminarias made it a “magical time” of year in Santa Fe. 156

A Luxurious Retreat at

La Fonda on the Plaza

Stunning ... Classic ... Memorable Photo Š Robert Reck 800.523.5002 Reservations

100 E. San Francisco Street 157 Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501

Illu minate your Experience

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“What kinds of events did you plan for your wedding party and guests?” Each bride worked with her venue’s events planner, and each gave a glowing account of her experience. Appreciating the locale and its laid-back atmosphere, our brides paired casual, Southwest-themed pre- and post-wedding events with more traditional, formal wedding ceremonies. Pre-wedding events included welcoming guests who arrived early in Taos with a “huge backyard barbecue.” The next day, after the wedding rehearsal, the couple set the weekend’s informal, joyful tone by hosting a Wild West Welcome party. Guests donned denim, western belts, and cowboy boots and hats. Another couple greeted guests with a cocktail hour at Encantado’s bar and took advantage of its lovely courtyard with its glowing fire pit. Creating a “hospitality suite” where guests could hang out was also popular. Brides hosted bachelorette parties and other pre-wedding events to thank their female bridal party members: these included a party in the Buffalo Thunder suites, an evening at Del Charro Saloon, and a day at Ten Thousand Waves, one of the country’s premiere Japanese spas. The men weren’t neglected: the groomsmen in one wedding party were treated to Buffalo Thunder’s outstanding golf course, Towa. Rehearsal dinner locations and cuisine were equally diverse, being held both at hotels and restaurants, with Southwestern cuisine as a popular choice. At Epazote, guests attired in cowboy garb feasted on a Mexican buffet and quaffed margaritas and sangria, while a flamenco guitarist played. One couple decided on a seated dinner on the spectacular third-floor Terrace of La Fonda’s north wing. Still another opted for La Posada’s award-winning restaurant, Fuego. What about the location of the wedding itself? Some couples exchanged vows in a wonderful exterior space at their venue, such as The Gazebo at Bishop’s Lodge, or the Buffalo Thunder courtyard. One bride chose Santa Fe’s lovely, historic Loretto Chapel, consistently chosen by Santa Fe Reporter readers as “the best place to get married.” Annually, it provides an intimate setting for more than 200 destination weddings. The equally striking and timeless San Francisco de Asís Mission Church in Ranchos de Taos was another bride’s choice: “San Francisco de Asís is one of the most photographed churches in the country and was a very special place for our ceremony.” Ballrooms were the overwhelming choice for the wedding receptions, with food, music, and dancing. One couple’s reception featured a photo booth so they could create “a visual guestbook.” Another wedding concluded with a festive sparkler-illuminated departure for the newlyweds. Most brides mentioned a Sunday morning farewell buffet or brunch. “We felt that was a good way to send off our guests and say thank you for coming to our wedding,” wrote one. For their guests’ convenience, these events were held at the hotel or resort—some outdoors if the weather was warm. “What made your wedding or the events special or unique?” Several brides described gift baskets or “welcome” bags for guests. Tucked inside were goodies such as a handwritten welcome jotted on local picture postcards, the weekend’s itinerary, literature about things to see and do (cop159

ies of The Essential Guide and/or literature from the Chamber of Commerce), custom-labeled half-bottles of New Mexico’s Gruet sparkling wine, Mexican beers, limes, biscochitos (Mexican wedding cookies), and locally made tortilla chips and salsa. Brides also mentioned something else that made their wedding particularly special for them: pieces of art they received as wedding gifts. Thoughtful reminders long after the wedding was over, these gifts included pottery from Acoma and other regional potters, a print of St. Francis Basilica, Nambé pieces, and a painting of San Francisco de Asís Church. One thoughtful groom gave his bride a “gorgeous turquoise necklace” made by a local Native American artist. “In addition to those at your venue, which service providers did you use?” All brides used their hotel’s wedding coordinators, reporting that these talented individuals knew exactly who to contact and made sure every detail went smoothly. Here are some of their additional recommendations, some of which were used by more than one bride. Flowers: Artichokes and Pomegranates, Marisa’s Flowers, Margaret Bost; Music: a mariachi band, flutist Ron Roybal, the “high energy dance music” of Absolute Entertainment, Soulstice, the soothing sounds of Matthew Andrae, and in Taos, Max Gomez; Cake: Chocolate Maven, Jocelyn’s Cakes, and Tree House Bakery; Photography: InSight Photo; Hair and Makeup: Alix Hair Studio, Rock Paper Scissors, Ritual Hair Studio, Monika Stark of Makeup Santa Fe, and Heather Miro Hair Design (Taos); Other: Ten Thousand Waves; Faust Transportation of Taos. “What would you advise a bride considering a wedding here?” • “When planning a wedding from out-of-state, it is crucial to have [hotel/wedding] staff who care about their clients and are easy to contact.” • “Provide guests with a detailed list of places to see” that they can enjoy on their own during down times. • “You can’t really go wrong with the weather on most days, but it’s good to have a backup plan just in case.” • “The hot, dry air and the elevation can really have an ill effect on people who aren’t used to it or who have health problems. [Put] together a little welcome kit that includes information about the climate and elevation so your guests are prepared when they arrive.” • “Have your hair done at the hotel or have someone come to you.” • “Plan your wedding on a holiday weekend. Everyone will show up and have a well-needed vacation” since “along with the wedding, they can enjoy golf, swimming, gambling, dancing, shopping, and spa services.” • El Monte Sagrado Resort and Spa is “the best and only choice” for a Taos wedding. “It was a romantic and peaceful place for guests to stay, and small enough that it felt like we reserved the entire space.” • “I would tell brides to think about what is most important to them and splurge on that element of their wedding.” • Meet in person anyone you’re considering as a vendor; visit any venue you’re considering. “Take note of your initial reaction to the place, the staff, everything. Don’t set your heart on anything until you’ve done your homework. And once you’ve chosen vendors you really ‘mesh’ with, listen to what they have to say.” • “Look around your venue with an eye for your wedding photos, scoping out places that would be a good backdrop for your photographs.” 160

Taste the New Southwest Chef Charles Dale’s modern rustic cuisine introduces a Contemporary American fare that is regionally inspired by Northern New Mexico and infused with local and organically sourced ingredients.


198 State Road 592, Santa Fe


• You’ll know in your heart what the right thing is, and when you need guidance, ask for it! The professionals you hired have been a part of more weddings than you can imagine, so take advantage of their knowledge and experience!” • “Don’t rush yourself, and don’t let the excitement of friends and family members push you to make decisions before you know what you want! Ultimately, it’s your day.” • “Try to incorporate little touches of yourself into your wedding, so that it is unique, and take advantage of the special gifts Santa Fe and New Mexico have to offer.” • “Most of all, in the midst of all the craziness, take it all in. It is very rare to have all of your family and friends in one place, so make sure you enjoy all the fruits of your planning! No wedding is perfect, so just go with the flow, and you will surely have a wedding to remember!” If you’re contemplating a destination wedding in northern New Mexico, take a cue from the brides surveyed for this article. If you do, you’ll be able to say in hindsight, as one of them did, “Thinking about our wedding truly puts a smile on my face. I wouldn’t change a thing.”  Visit for a complete list of respected wedding coordinators and more wedding information.


ocal haute couture designer Laura Sheppherd knows the wedding dress is often the first thing a bride chooses. So special is the garment that it can influence the plans for the entire wedding, from the flowers to the wedding cake.

A designer not only of couture wedding dresses, but also mother-of-the-bride, bridesmaid, eveningwear, and other special occasion dresses, Sheppherd finds inspiration in the City Different. Costumes at the Palace of the Governors, the Wheelwright Museum, and the Santa Fe Opera constantly fuel her artistic imagination. She cites Santa Fe’s unique blend of the historic and contemporary as a rich, ongoing source of creative stimulation. Sheppherd scours the world for exquisite fabrics, from modern to rare and antique. Her French lace sources are used by all premier wedding dress designers, including Christian Lacroix. The exquisite beading and embroidery are done for Sheppherd in India. According to Sheppherd, having a destination wedding in Santa Fe and working with a local couturier can be a lovely, relaxing experience for the bride-to-be. A one-on-one relationship with the designer ensures the bride of a unique wedding gown, one that genuinely reflects her style and flatters her. Moreover, while in town to confer with the designer and have fittings, the bride-to-be can explore venues, attend tastings, consult with florists, and so forth. Away from the demands of everyday life, she has time to discover what is truly unique about Santa Fe and decide how to incorporate it into the wedding plans. As Sheppherd knows, that uniqueness often includes a gorgeous, customdesigned wedding dress. WEDDING IMAGES in order: A couple in front of the Loretto Chapel, located adjacent to the Inn and Spa at Loretto and La Fonda, a bouquet held by a bride at Bishop's Lodge (photo ©, a bride and her maid of honor dressed by Laura Sheppherd 162

the authentic experience � Luxury accommodations & personal service � Award-winning SháNah Spa � Intimate weddings at the historic Lamy Chapel � Fine dining with outdoor patio seating � Horseback riding, skeet & trap shooting � Outdoor heated pool, tennis & croquet � Biking & hiking over 450 forested acres

Reserve your SANTA FE experience today.

Santa Fe’s luxury ranch resort since 1918.

Reservations 800.732.2240

1297 Bishop’s Lodge Rd. Santa Fe, NM 163

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165 photos by Chip Byrd and Jane M. Hill

The Santa Fe Opera

by Nicole Beals


n July 1, 2011, the acclaimed Santa Fe Opera unveils its 54th season. During its sparkling nine-week season, The Santa Fe Opera presents 37 performances. This year’s five operas include the revival of the 2007 production of Puccini’s La Bohème and the acclaimed 2001 staging of Berg’s Wozzeck. There are also three new productions, none of which has been performed here previously: Menotti’s The Last Savage, in honor of the centennial of the composer’s birth; Gounod’s beloved masterpiece, Faust; and the first major U.S. production of Vivaldi’s Griselda. Not only is this an exciting and varied slate of operas, but all five of this season’s conductors are distinguished maestros. The Santa Fe Opera venue represents the dramatic marriage of architecture and engineering. There is a roof over all seating areas, and yet the open-air theater’s contemporary design encompasses nearly 360 degrees of breathtaking views of the Sangre de Cristo and Jemez Mountains. The rugged landscape and spectacular sunset form the backdrop of the stage, and performances start once the sun goes down. A screen in front of each seat displays libretto translations, with a choice of English or Spanish. Planning to include the Opera in your summer experience? During the season, many restaurants offer an early, specially priced dinner for those headed to the opera. Other opera-goers like to arrive at the grounds early and enjoy a pre-performance tailgate picnic while they watch the sun set. Still others take advantage of the Opera’s popular preview buffet. Served in the open-air cantina, dinner includes wine, dessert, and an informative talk about the evening’s opera. Order your preview buffet ticket early: they go fast! All ticket holders are invited to the free Prelude Talks, held the evenings of most performances. And plan to drop by the Opera Shop either before the opera begins or during intermission. Finally, learn what goes on behind the scenes at the opera. Monday through Saturday at 9 a.m., you can take a one-hour backstage tour. Tickets are $5 for adults, and children ages 6-17 are free. No reservations are needed. Just show up and buy your ticket at the Opera Shop, where the tour begins. Bravissimo!  For more information, call 800.280.4654 or visit An audience eagerly anticipates a performance of Peter Grimes during The Santa Fe Opera's 2005 season (photo by Ken Howard) 166

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photos: Peter Lamont • 575.776.2251 Taos Ski Valley ~ New Mexico 168

essential outdoors + wellness + classes


New Mexico

Adventure Guide Four Seasons of Fun by Katie Arnold

Santa Fe may be ranked the nation’s third-largest art market, but that doesn’t mean this capital city of 60,000 doesn’t know how to get outside and play. The mountains and rivers outside of town are Santa Fe’s secret weapon: they boast an enviable wealth of adventure options that could keep even the most active visitors and locals occupied for months. Even better, northern New Mexico is an undiscovered playground. The trails, peaks, and crags are rarely crowded, and a busy day on the river might mean you see a handful of other boaters or anglers. And the fun doesn’t stop when the snow flies. From steep, deep chutes at Taos to secluded Nordic loops near Red River, you’ll find skiing any way you like it. Whatever your sport of choice, be sure to leave plenty of time for exploring northern New Mexico’s wilder side. Hiking The best way to experience the northern New Mexico backcountry is on foot. The Sierra Club’s Day Hikes in the Santa Fe Area, available at local bookstores and outdoor stores, details 60 rambles, from short walks near town to ambitious overnight backpacking trips in the Wheeler Peak Wilderness outside of Taos. Here are a few hikes that are local favorites: Three excellent hikes, nestled in the southern range of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and within ten-to-fifteen minutes of Santa Fe, originate along SH 475, the Ski Basin Road. The well-marked Chamisa Trail offers an easy day hike. Walk the entire five miles to Big Tesuque Creek or just a portion of the trail. For a moderate, four-hour hike, try the Bear Wallow, Borrego, and Winsor Trails, referred to as the “Triangle Trails.” Big Tesuque Creek is at the junction of the Borrego and Windsor Trails, and can serve as a stopping point. Those in the mood for a strenuous hike should head for Aspen Vista Trail, even further up SH 475. Allow a day: this 6-mile hike starts at 10,000 feet and culminates at Tesuque Peak (12,045 feet). It offers gorgeous views of the Rio Grande Valley. The 12-mile round-trip hike to 12,622-foot Santa Fe Baldy offers the best taste of the Sangre de Cristo backcountry with the least amount of driving. The Winsor Trail (#254) leaves from the Ski Santa Fe parking lot. After a steep mile climb, it winds gradually uphill. Switch to the Skyline Trail (#251) to proceed to Baldy’s summit ridge, where the air gets thin and the views of the Rio Grande and Pecos River Valleys are huge. No matter how far you go, it’s a spectacular sub-alpine walk. For rolling, lower-elevation routes that are accessible year round, head to two new trail networks south of town. Just off US 285, 15 miles from Santa Fe, the Galisteo Basin Preserve has created 15 miles of accessible hiking and biking

loops through stunning piñon and juniper hills, with another 35 miles in the works. The trails in the Cerrillos Hills State Park, off Hwy 14, skirt defunct 1880s iron, gold, and turquoise mines in the knobby Cerrillos Hills and offer panoramas all the way to Albuquerque. Culture buffs shouldn’t miss Tsankawi, an easy 1.5-mile loop to the ruins of a 700-year-old Ancestral Pueblo village. Located in Bandelier National Monument, near Los Alamos, but 12 miles from the busy main visitor center, Tsankawi trail hikers clamber up ladders and follow well-worn grooves in the crumbly volcanic tuff—footprints left by the original inhabitants. The payoff: petroglyph panels, a partially excavated village on the mesa top, and dozens of cliff dwellings along the rock face. Keep your eyes open for potshards, but respectfully leave them where you find them. Further north, highly scenic trails originate in Taos Ski Valley, 20 miles northeast of Taos, at or near the Twining Campground. The easy Williams Lake Trail 62 begins at 10,200 feet and climbs to 11,000 feet at Williams Lake. The trail, an ancient glacial canyon, features bowl-shaped lakes, high alpine wetlands and tundra plants, and more than 200 wildflower species. The difficult Wheeler Peak Trail 90 leads to the state’s highest peak (13,161 feet), but the spectacular, panoramic views from Wheeler Peak summit are worth the trek. These brief descriptions of some of the area’s classic hikes are not substitutes for guidebooks or USGS topographic maps. One of the best resources for hiking-related information and needs is Sangre de Cristo Mountain Works. Owner Kent Little and his highly knowledgeable staff can field any question. Inform yourself about precautions related to altitude, temperature and the possibility of rapidly changing weather in the mountains. Wear layers. Turn back if you’re flagging. Don’t wander off the trail. Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Cycling With the creation of the Dale Ball Trail System in the Santa Fe foothills, local mountain bikers acquired nearly 30 miles of new singletrack—all within city limits. And that’s only a fraction of cycling options in northern New Mexico. Mountain bikers can warm up on the Dale Balls, choosing among cross-country routes in the north, central, and southern sections, before pedaling north on Hyde Park Road toward the Ski Basin. En route, the Chamisa, Bear Wallow, and Borrego Trails link up with the lower Winsor Trail to form moderately challenging loops on rocky, technical terrain. Farther afield, the 20-mile South Boundary Trail is New Mexico’s signature epic challenge for serious mountain bikers. Leaving Angel Fire, it traverses the Carson National Forest, passing through meadows, aspen groves—gorgeous in the fall—conifer forest, and piñon-juniper scrub before dropping steeply into Taos. Native Sons Adventures in Taos will shuttle you and your bike the hour’s drive to the start, so you can leave your car at the finish. South toward Albuquerque, off US 550, the White Mesa Trails are the newest additions to the state’s fat-tire trail network: 15 miles of singletrack threading through a craggy, otherworldly desert-scape of gypsum mesas. The Dragon’s Back wiggles along a skinny, fin-like ridgeline, with vertiginous drops on either side. Road cyclists should take their cue from the hugely popular Santa Fe Century Ride, which every year in late May follows a scenic 100-mile circuit from Santa Fe south along the Turquoise Trail (Hwy 14) through the Ortiz Mountain 171

towns of Madrid, Golden, and Cedar Grove before heading northeast again to the artsy burg of Galisteo and back to Santa Fe. Too ambitious? Don’t sweat it: the Half Century Ride is just as scenic. For an even shorter tour, pedal north from Santa Fe on Bishops Lodge Road and drop into the lush-by-comparison Tesuque Valley, where a refueling pit stop at the Tesuque Village Market is a must. At CR 592, turn northeast and ride to the pavement’s end near the barely-there burg of Chupadero. The granddaddy of all northern New Mexico rides is the 80-mile loop on the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway, which circles the Wheeler Peak Wilderness by way of Taos, Red River, and Angel Fire, climbing over 9,802-foot Bobcat Pass en route. In Santa Fe, New Mexico Bike & Sport is your source for mountain- and road-bike rentals ( Rafting New Mexico may seem like the high desert, but come spring, the powder-shrouded peaks shed their snow, and the run-off turns the area’s rivers into world-class whitewater. The Rio Grande is the state’s largest river, and the Taos Box is its marquee rafting trip: a thrilling, 17-mile section of Class III-V rapids hemmed in by the 800-foot basalt walls of the Rio Grande Gorge. Expect to get wet on this full-day adventure, and keep your eyes open for ravens and falcons, and faint petroglyphs etched into riverside boulders. The river’s Lower Gorge makes for a mellower outing, with an easy Class I-II float through Orilla Verde State Park, followed by a bouncy Class III ride on the Racecourse Run. Los Rios River Runners offers trips on both sections. North of Georgia O’Keeffe’s old stomping grounds in Abiquiu, the Rio Chama cuts 31 miles through a stunningly remote red-rock canyon. The Class III Chama can be done as a two-to three-day float trip from El Vado Reservoir, with overnight tent camps in the canyon, or as a one-day run from near Christ in the Desert Monastery. Either way, drifting beneath 1,500-foot sandstone cliffs stained every shade of red and pink, you’ll quickly understand why this section of the Chama was designated a National Wild and Scenic River. Check out Far Flung Adventures' schedule of guided raft trips. Fly-fishing There’s no better antidote to a hot summer day than casting a line into the Land of Enchantment’s finest trout streams. Anglers looking for easy access from Santa Fe should beeline to the Pecos River. The upper section, along Hwy 63 between the town of Pecos and the road’s-end outpost of Cowles, starts as a narrow mountain stream teeming with brown trout and cutthroats, and widens to more than 20 feet as it drops into the Pecos Box. The hike in from the road is easy, but the river itself is technical, with overhanging river willows along the bank, swift currents, and deep pools. Prime time is June through September, when the mayflies, nymphs, and caddis flies hatch. More technical and remote still is the Rio Santa Barbara, a backcountry creek that flows out of the Truchas high country, between Santa Fe and Taos. Park at the campground off Route 75, outside Peñasco along the High Road, then hoof it four miles in along the West Fork of the Santa Barbara, prime habitat for endangered Rio Grande cutthroat trout. Late summer through early fall is peak season on this catch-and-release stream. 172

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But it’s the San Juan River, just below Navajo Dam in northwestern New Mexico, that gets the state’s top billing. Anglers from around the world descend on this blue-ribbon fishery, where the trout—which number in the tens of thousands—routinely top 17 inches. Because the dam keeps the water temperature, in the mid-40s year round, fishing the San Juan is never out of season. This is a vastly popular destination, so you won’t have the river or the fish to yourself. Translation: Be prepared to get crafty with your casting and presentation. For Santa Fe visitors and locals alike, it’s easy to experience the pleasures of a fly-fishing adventure. High Desert Anglers, the city’s oldest fly fishing shop, can provide all the advice, gear, permits, and guides for any New Mexico fishing expedition. They offer a turnkey fly-fishing experience, as well as a variety of other services: from simple directions to a nearby stream to guided access to numerous stretches of private water, loaded with eager-to-eat rainbow and brown trout. Indeed, High Desert Angler guides can assure anglers of the finest fly-fishing experience—from “reading the water” to identify the best fishing spots to helping them to cast their fly toward the trout of a lifetime. skiing “It snows in Santa Fe?” is a common query from people who think that just because New Mexico is next to Arizona on the map, it’s balmy all winter long. Guess again. Not only does the white stuff fly in Santa Fe, but it also makes for some of the best alpine skiing in the Southwest. Located 16 winding miles from the Plaza, Ski Santa Fe sits at 10,350 feet in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, one of the highest base areas of any resort in the country. (See page 178 for more details about Ski Santa Fe.) Taos Ski Valley’s 2008 decision to allow snowboarders onto its fabled terrain marked a momentous shift in New Mexico’s winter sports scene. Now there are no limits to who can shred the resort’s 1,300 acres of world-class trails and more than 2,600 feet of vertical, the most in the state. Beginners can take advantage of one of the best ski schools in the country. Intermediates can ply the bumps on short, forgiving runs off Chair 7. Experts can hike to an additional 600 feet of untracked powder on the Ridge, the West Basin, and Kachina Peak—off-piste slopes that rival any in the West. With plenty of lodging right on site and a lively après-ski vibe at The Stray Dog and deck side at Hotel St. Bernard, you’ll definitely want to make a weekend of it. Cross-country skiers are in luck, too. The Norski and Aspen Vista Trails, near the Santa Fe Ski Basin, offer close-totown tours. A narrow 2.4-mile track through the aspens, the Norski loop is perfect for dedicated Nordic skiers who want to do laps (the track is groomed occasionally; no dogs allowed). Meanwhile Aspen Vista Trail (an unplowed forest road closed to vehicles) climbs six miles and more than 2,000 feet through aspens and white firs to the radio towers atop Ski Santa Fe’s Tesuque Peak. After about four miles, the trees thin to reveal sprawling views of Santa Fe, the Rio Grande Valley, and the Jemez Mountains to the west. The grade is forgiving enough for most cross-country skiers, but you’ll want to pack plenty of warm layers for the fast and chilly descent. The state’s most extensive Nordic skiing network can be found at Enchanted Forest Cross-Country Ski Center, three miles east of Red River, just below Bobcat Pass. There, 25 miles of groomed and backcountry trails wind through open meadows and fir-and-aspen woods in the Carson National Forest. This is a full-service facility, with a rental shop, ski school, three-miles of dog-friendly trails, and a warming hut. 

Outdoor Adventure images in order: Rio Costilla (photo by Doug R. Brown), hiker at Aspen Vista near Santa Fe (photo by Julien McRoberts), mountain biker on the White Mesa Trail, rafting on the Rio Grande Racecourse Run

Staying Healthy

at High Altitudes

by Dr. Lesa Fraker

The Land of Enchantment offers a wonderful experience both to those who venture here and those who are fortunate enough to live here. To make sure that their experience is indeed enchanting, casual travelers and potential residents alike should pay attention to certain health concerns unique to this locale.

Altitude sickness can be unexpected and debilitating to those who travel here from locations below 6,000 feet in altitude. The malady is not related to an individual’s level of physical fitness. Moreover, it can affect virtually anyone. The decreased atmospheric oxygen can bring on any of a gamut of symptoms: mild shortness of breath, nosebleeds, insomnia, and even severe headaches, nausea, and vomiting. Prevention by slow ascent is best. If possible, visitors should spend a night or two at a lower altitude, such as Albuquerque. It can take up to two weeks to acclimate to altitude, though, and fortunately, prescription medications and oxygen treatments can ameliorate altitude-induced symptoms. Visitors who are sensitive to the altitude change will be affected every time and should plan accordingly. Interestingly, people who live at a higher altitude can de-acclimate in as little as two weeks at a lower altitude, but then notice symptoms when they return home. Being at high altitude also means greater sun exposure. Both visitors and locals tend to be outdoors more frequently here year-round. This is important because the area has a higher percentage of sunny days and receives a higher percentage of damaging rays. Even traveling in a car can result in significant amount of exposure. Dermatologists now recommend protection not only from UVB rays, but also from UVA rays, which actually contribute to aging, skin damage, and skin cancers. In this climate and altitude, daily use of a sunscreen containing both UVA and UVB protection is imperative. Treatment for most sunburns includes cool water compresses, aloe vera gels, and anti-inflammatory medications. More severe burns should be seen by a medical provider for possible prescription pain medications and burn ointments.

Dehydration often goes hand-in-hand with a high altitude and increased sun exposure. Visitors are typically unaware of the degree of water loss and can quickly become dehydrated. Children and the elderly face an enhanced risk. Simply being at a high altitude leads to water loss through the increased effort to breathe. Even greater losses occur with exertion, such as hiking—or for some people, even walking around the Plaza. Moreover, because the lack of humidity reduces sweating, the amount of water lost though the skin is not readily apparent. Additionally, caffeine and alcohol promote dehydration, so they should be consumed in moderation or avoided. An easy way to assess hydration is urine color: the clearer the urine, the more normal the level of hydration. However, when the body becomes dehydrated, it tries to conserve water. As a result, urine becomes more concentrated and turns darker yellow. Nausea or vomiting from altitude illness can also cause dehydration. Fluids should be replaced by drinking 2-3 times the normal water intake. Both plain water and water with electrolyte solutions work well. A person who is unable to rehydrate because of persistent nausea or vomiting should seek medical treatment.  Should your enjoyment of Santa Fe be interrupted by any medical problem or injury, you can find immediate help from Dr. Lesa Fraker and her experienced health care providers at ultiMED Urgent Medical Care. It is conveniently located on the north side of town at 707 Paseo de Peralta, near the Plaza and convenient to the Ski Valley. No appointment is necessary. For information, call 505.989.8707 or visit 176

The ultiMATE in urgent care 7 days a week

urgent medical care We’ll take care of all your needs... from altitude sickness to broken bones or coughs & colds 707 Paseo de Peralta 505.989.8707 • downtown location • no appointment necessary • all ages welcome Lesa Fraker, MD PhD FACEP Board Certified Emergency Medicine Physician Anti-Aging Specialist

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Skiing + Boarding S a n ta F e S t y l e

by Debi Owen


light snow is blanketing the city of Santa Fe as skiers and boarders look in the distance and see the snowcapped peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Nestled in those mountains above 10,000 feet is Ski Santa Fe, one of the best kept secrets of New Mexico. What locals know and what visitors will discover is that the slopes will have powder on which to ski and ride tomorrow. This is just the beginning of a winter adventure you’ll want to repeat season after season. Seven lifts transport skiers and boarders to a top elevation of 12,075 feet, and 73 trails on 660 acres challenge guests at all skill levels from double black diamond to green beginners. Powder, moguls, steeps and runs groomed to perfection by the best of the southwest are all there for your skiing and boarding pleasure. Skiers or riders seeking fresh powder, start your adventure on the Santa Fe Super Chief Quad and then head over to the Tesuque Triple Chairlift to make your “traks” on North or South Burn or down Tequila Sunrise Glade. To get your thrills on moguls, head for Columbine, Wizard, and Molly Hogan off the Millennium Triple Chairlift. Variety, they say, is the spice of life. If it's true, then your destination is Camp Robber, which features a little of everything. On the lower level of La Casa Mall is a full-service rental shop featuring skis (including special shaped and high performance ones), boots, poles, snowboards, and helmets. The Wintermill Sports Shop, just next door, carries a variety of the top names in ski and snowboard apparel. The shop also has all of those essentials you may have forgotten: gloves, mittens, hats, goggles, and the all-important sunscreen. To hone your existing skills or become a new member of the club, check out the group and private lessons taught by the PSIA certified instructors at the Snowsports School. The Burton Learn to Ride Center is a state-of-the-art program for “Shredders” 12 years and up. Chipmunk Corner Children’s Center is ready to serve younger skiers and non-skiers. The “one-stop learning” facility has skiing classes for youth 3 to 11 years and snowboarding classes for those 6 to 11 years in age. For visitors not yet ready to learn to ski, snowplay and day care are also part of this special facility for those as young as 2 months. Ski Santa Fe’s French chef gives a whole new meaning to ski area fare: specialty soups, New Mexican cuisine, pastas–even the always popular green chili cheeseburger. The choice is yours at La Casa Café or Totemoff’s at mid-mountain. See it all at 178

7 Lifts • 73 Trails • Bone Yard Free Style Terrain Park! Snow Sports School • Chipmunk Corner Children’s Center Located on Highway 475, 16 miles from Santa Fe - the ‘City Different’ in the beautiful Santa Fe National Forest

Get on a

Mountain ski area 505.982.4429 snow report 505.983.9155


winter spring


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Locally owned

Since 1964

121 Sandoval Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 983-5155 • To shop on-line go to

Summer hours: Mon-Sat 9:30am-6pm Sun 11am-5pm Winter hours: Mon–Sat 8:30am to 6pm Sun 9:30am to 5pm Winter rental hours: 7:30am–6pm 7 DAYS A WEEK 181181

Essential Classes FECHIN ART WORKSHOP This year the Fechin Art Workshop is being reinstituted in Taos under the auspices of Fine Art Services. This successful program, conducted for more than 20 years at the Donner Ranch in San Cristobal, ended in 2006. Students enrolled in weeklong workshops that were taught by nationally known painters and sculptors. The 2011 workshop is co-taught by master painters David A. Leffel and Sherrie McGraw. It will be held May 13-17 at the Hotel St. Bernard, in Taos Ski Valley, 19 miles northeast of Taos. “Still Life, Figure and Portrait Painting” includes five days of instruction, an evening dual demonstration at the Harwood Museum and a personal studio visit. Room and board is offered by the Hotel St. Bernard. Attending students come from coast to coast, as well as from Canada. Pictures of classes will be posted daily on the website. Mid-week lectures and demonstrations will be open to the public. Future classes will include nationally and internationally established artists in a variety of mediums.

Fechin Art Workshop • (575) 751-0647 • Elise Waters Olonia Fine Art Services was formed in January, 2010. It is the culmination of more than 27 years of experience in the fine arts field for Elise Waters Olonia. Based in Taos, New Mexico, she is committed to exploring ideas, creating fine art experiences and providing opportunities for artists, galleries and communities. LIQUID LIGHT GLASS Owner Elodie Holmes has been blowing glass for 30 years. Her glass art is represented in galleries nationally and internationally. She offers classes for individuals and groups in paperweight making, flower sculpting, and ornament making. Classes usually last an hour, but are longer for groups. Prices depend on the nature of the instruction and number of people, but the cost for the one-hour Glass Experience is $150; the group paperweight class costs $45.

Liquid Light Glass • 926 Baca Street #3, Santa Fe, NM 87505 (505) 820-2222 • •


Essential Classes BODY OF SANTA FE BODY of Santa Fe features fitness classes, a spa, café, boutique, and even childcare while you enjoy all it has to offer. It has been teaching culinary classes since it opened in 2004, and has attracted students from as far away as New York City. Of special note are its Raw Culinary, Elixirs Crafting, and Traditional New Mexican Food classes, which are taught in BODY’s RED Kitchen. BODY’s culinary classes offer a twist on the conventional cooking classes: “We help students of all levels of experience try something new and healthy that they haven’t tried before. Raw Culinary is our most popular class because it proves that you don’t need to ‘cook’ food for it to be creative and delectable!” Class length ranges from 30 minutes to 2 hours, and class prices range from $30-$85.

Julien McRoberts

BODY of Santa Fe • 333 Cordova Road, Santa Fe, NM 87505 • (505) 986-0362

MéTIER STUDIO GALLERY Ever wanted to try your hand at weaving, basketry, natural dyeing, or spinning? Métier Studio Gallery offers you the opportunity. The studio occupies a unique and historic building in Dixon that once was home to the old Medina Cash Store, a building referred to by locals as the “Rock House.” Classes are held at the Dixon studio (23 miles from Santa Fe), at Mission Embudo (across the street from the studio), and at the Espanola Valley Fiber Arts Center in Espanola. Class length varies depending on the craft: one day for most basket classes; one to two days for dyeing and spinning classes; and three days or longer for weaving classes. Métier draws on 26 years of teaching experience. The typical student is a mature woman with previous craft experience, although Métier had a child as young as seven (a boy with ADHD who still managed to complete a basket!). Métier reports it has had students from as far away as Ontario, Canada. Classes range from $50-500, plus the cost of materials.

Métier Studio Gallery • PO Box 306, Dixon, NM 87527 (505) 579-4111
• •



Liquid Light Glass

OODLES YARN & BEAD GALLERY Learn to knit in a one-hour private lesson! Beginning, intermediate, and advanced knitting and crochet technique classes are taught in an intimate setting among oodles of yarn. Special workshops taught by published authors and instructors, such as Valentina Devine and Nicky Epstein, will be held at dates yet to be determined. Classes such as “Sew a Fine Seam,” “Beginning Socks,” “What's a Mobius, Anyway, and How Do You Knit One?,” “Kitchner Stitch Yourself,” “Tunisian Crochet,” and others will be taught throughout the year. Call for a list of monthly classes. Make a Santa Fe memory with Santa Fe yarn: Oodles carries gorgeous yarn that is hand painted locally! Classes typically last 3 hours, but all-day workshops can be arranged in advance. Prices range from $35-$100, with some exceptions for special classes. Here’s what some of our customers say about us: “This is the best yarn shop I’ve ever been to.” “I’ve been looking all over Santa Fe for beads, and I’ve hit the jackpot!” “You’ve got lots of stuff I’ve never seen anywhere before.” Come see for yourself. Winter hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10-5; Sunday 1-5 Daylight Savings: Tuesday-Friday, 10-6; Saturday 10-5; Sunday 1-5

Oodles Yarn & Bead Gallery • 411 W. Water Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501 • (505) 992-2678

HOURS: MON-SAT 10-5 • Glass Demos 926 Baca Street • Ste 3 • Santa Fe, NM 87505 505-820-2222 • 184





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spa · studio · boutique · café · fitness · kids

333 Cordova 986 0362 185

The Original Fountain of Youth Our legendary waters have been soothing body, mind and spirit naturally for centuries.

Enchanting suites and cottages • Full-service spa • The Artesian Restaurant & Wine Bar Yoga, hiking and mountain biking • Weddings, retreats and group facilities

800.222.9162 505.583.2233 186

Hot Springs Open 8am - 10pm Every Day

no matter how you slice it

a new adventure awaits

for those who venture Santa Fe’s locally-owned backcountry store will outfit you for your next adventure with the best quality outdoor equipment, footwear, apparel and accessories.

328 S. Guadalupe 505.984.8221 OPEN 7 Days shop at Proud to feature Top Photo © Kent Little

Patagonia Photos © Rich Wheater and Rolando Garibotti

The Railyard’s ORIGINAL Mountain Shop 187

essential golf

by Dan Vukelich

New Mexico gallery patrons know the works of Georgia O’Keeffe, Fremont Ellis, and Nicholai Fechin, but how about Ken Dye, Jr., Hale Irwin, and Bill Phillips? They are, in fact, among the artists who sculpted New Mexico’s desert and mountain terrain into some of the most memorable golf courses anywhere in the American Southwest. Here are a couple of their featured local portfolios: Paa-ko ridGe Golf cluB Perhaps the most dramatic golf course built since golf came to New Mexico in 1900, Paa-Ko Ridge offers players the distinct feeling they’re playing the only golf hole in the world. Cut through a piñon and juniper forest, the course rises and falls across mountainous terrain on the eastern slope of the Sandia Mountains near Albuquerque. Paa-Ko’s design stays with you. “With some courses, you try to replay the round in your mind and you get stuck—was that dogleg No. 4 or was it No. 7?” says John Tipping, who reviewed Paa-Ko for Pacific Northwest Golf Association Magazine. “After a round at Paa-Ko, you can see every hole in your mind’s eye. Every hole is different, every hole is unique,” he says. “That is the definition of a great golf course.” Paa-Ko Ridge is ranked No. 11 on Golf World magazine’s 2010 Readers’ Choice Awards. It is on GOLF magazine’s list of the “Top 100 You Can Play” and on Golf Digest’s list of “America’s 100 Greatest Public Courses.” The Zagat Survey calls Paa-Ko “extraordinary,” the only course in the Southwest so described. Importantly, the Golf Digest/Fodor’s “Best Places to Play” guide gives Paa-Ko five stars—an honor accorded to just 26 courses in the United States. (Hint: You’ll fi nd Paa-Ko under “P,” just ahead of Pebble Beach.) Paa-Ko has 27 holes, all designed by Ken Dye, Jr. The third nine has three par 3s, three par 4s and three par 5s. To preserve the identiy of the original awarding-winning 18, the new nine is named, simply, Nos. 19-27. Towa Golf Course The 36 holes at Towa, part of the Buffalo Thunder Resort and Casino on Pojoaque Pueblo, are perhaps some of the most enjoyable, fun golf holes anywhere in New Mexico. Straddling a rocky ridge and looking out over the same highdesert vista beloved by Georgia O’Keeffe, Towa enjoys commanding, expansive views of the Pojoaque Valley, Los Alamos, and Abiquiu. Towa features the only true island green in New Mexico, No. 4 on its Piñon Nine. Take away Towa’s elevated teeboxes and the ball-catching bunker beyond the green, and you have No. 17 at TPC Sawgrass, perhaps the most exciting hole on the PGA Tour. Designed by architects Hale Irwin and Bill Phillips to test but not abuse resort golfers drawn to the on-property Hilton Resort, most of Towa’s holes look more difficult from the tee than they really are. The secret, simply, is to stay out of the desert, avoid hitting through doglegs, and keep your focus on the shot at hand, not the 360-degree panorama. For information about more golf course designs in Northern New Mexico, visit Aproaching the green at hole number 13, one of 27 beautiful and unique holes at Paa-Ko Ridge. 188

“★★★★★” Five Stars - Golf Digest

Golf Week - Best Golf Course in New Mexico, #1 Golf World - Best Public Golf Course in America, #3 Zagat Survey - Best Public Golf Facility in America, #10

One Clubhouse Drive, Sandia Park, NM 87047 (505) 281-6000 Lot/Home Sales (505) 281-1900

See our golf course home sites. Save with our multi-play cards. 189

Todos Santos Featuring Our Gilded Chocalate Saints & Milagros ~ Eclectic Confections from Around the World

Photo: Wendy McEahern & Parasol Productions

125 East Palace, Suite 31 ~ Santa Fe, NM 87501 ~ 505.982.3855


essential specialty shopping + services


120 Don Gaspar Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.983.3771


Photo: Wendy McEahern & Parasol Productions

the heart of santa fe

specialty shops & services Northern New Mexico is blessed with bountiful fashions, jewelry, and art, but don’t overlook its top-quality specialty shops and services. SHOPS If you need quirky, but hip party favors, a memorable hostess gift, or just want to pamper your taste buds with worldclass truffles, head to Todos Santos Chocolates and Confections. You’ll marvel that this tiny, festive shop can house such an array of exquisite, sophisticated treats. One shrewd visitor advised, “Go here first so you can go back again!” Magical is the only word to describe Doodlet’s, a local institution for decades. With its children’s books, folk art, nostalgic toys both kids and adults love, charming holiday keepsakes, entrancing objects that wind-up, wiggle, or chirp, and more, Doodlet’s captivates. Warning: It’s easy to lose all track of time browsing Doodlet’s, and impossible not to smile. You’ll not want to return home to your beloved pets without something for them from Zoe and Guido Pet Boutique. Perhaps a stylish Southwest-inspired collar and leash for Fido. Maybe some toys or specialty treats for kitty. Oh, if little FiFi is traveling with you, drop by for Small Dog Happy Hour. As the name suggests, you’ll find oodles of goodies at Oodles Yarn and Bead Gallery. Select yarn for a cozy afghan, or hand-dyed yarn or sumptuous cashmere, alpaca, or silk for a chic sweater. Adorn your creation with Oodles’ lovely beads and buttons. The shop’s cheerful, knowledgeable owner offers expert advice about products and how to use them. SERVICES Nambe Drug’s extensive services include advice related to hormone, endocrine, and pain management. Pharmacistowners Tom and Frances Lovett are also compounding experts. In fact, Nambe Drug is the exclusive compounding source for Signature Consult–Santa Fe, owned by Frances Lovett, PharmD. Signature Consult specializes in assessing and addressing hormone imbalances in women and men. Nambe Drug is also a great source for birthday, anniversary and “just because I like you” gifts and cards. Take time to browse their specialty gift displays. Prized art should have equally fabulous frames. You can rely on Frontier Frames’ creativity and decades of experience for all your framing needs. New Mexico Bank & Trust’s slogan, “Banking the way it used to be,” captures their commitment to old-fashioned values, such as service, trust, courtesy, and respect. Combine that with modern banking conveniences and top-notch mortgage services, and you end up with small-bank treatment with big-bank know-how and expertise. NMB&T’s locations throughout New Mexico include two in Santa Fe. Oops! Have a slight mishap hiking or skiing? Experiencing altitude sickness? UltiMED Urgent Medical Care, with locations in Santa Fe, Angel Fire (ski season only), Red River, and Rio Rancho, provides quality, on-the-spot treatment. (See page 176 for more information.)  Image on page 191: only the best food and bowls for your dog or cat from Zoe & Guido



411 W. Water Street Santa Fe, NM 87501 Off Guadalupe 5 blocks north of The Railyard. 505-992-2678


An old-time pharmacy with cutting-edge expertise Pharmacist Owners Dr. Frances & Tom Lovett

Specializing in Hormonal, Endocrine & Weight Management 505-455-2256 • 70 Cities Of Gold Rd. Santa Fe, NM 87506

(10 minutes north of SF & 25 minutes south of Los Alamos) Serving our neighbors in the greater Santa Fe community for more than 40 years. Now the exclusive compounding for Signature Consult Santa Fe

196 agent


Photo: Wendy McEarhern & Parasol Productions


European Country Antiques 221 East DeVargas Street (behind the San Miguel Mission) • Santa Fe, NM 87501 198

505.986.8285 • email: •

essential architecture + design


Photos: Wendy McEarhern & Parasol Productions


In the Sanbusco Market Center • Mon-Sat 10-6 and Sun 12-5 500 Montezuma Avenue, Santa Fe, NM 87501 • 505-983-8227 •

Complimentary Design Services Fine Furnishings & Accessories • on Plaza daily 10-6 • on Cerrillos Mon-Fri 9-6 and Sat 10-6 620 Cerrillos Rd. • 505-984-0955 and 53 Old Santa Fe Trail • 505-982-1296 •



ne of the challenges in designing public spaces, especially hotels, is to create a functional interior that appeals to a broad range of people. Moreover, to achieve this with a historic property entails striking a balance between the building’s history and creating something unique and fresh.

Recent studies indicate guests want hotel interiors to be more “immersive” environments, that is, to be inspirational, personal, and go beyond the expected. Such environments offer a more sensory experience in which sight, touch, sound, taste and smell harmonize to leave a lasting impression. The Journal of Consumer Research reports that “Many consumers are attracted to unusual and novel consumption experiences,” and further, “This drive to collect experiences has significant ramifications for the design of restaurants, stores and other public places.”

designing public spaces hotel parq central

Robin Gray, owner of RGD Rugs, concurs. “More and more, people are looking for a unique experience, something fun and different rather than the ‘stock’ hotel room we’ve experienced for so many years, something perhaps that speaks of the city or place where they are staying.” Kathy Fennema, owner of Santa Fe by Design, expresses it this way: “The design needs to be calming and comforting, giving one a sense of home, while imparting a sense of uniqueness and excitement for the surroundings.” Gloria Moss, of Moss Outdoors, believes “the hotel experience should start at the curbside,” and that it includes “the way you are greeted and escorted into the hotel reception.” From there, the lighting and visual surroundings of the lobby set the tone for the rest of guests’ stays. In short, those first few minutes dictate the rest of the experience. Albuquerque’s Hotel Parq Central is an example of just such an interior: it offers guests a novel and memorable experience. This historical structure lies in the revital-

202 202

Views of Hotel Parq Central (photography by Lucian Niemeyer, Robert Reck, and Sergio Salvador)


ized Huning Highland Historic District neighborhood, adjacent to Highland Park. Originally constructed in 1926 as a hospital for Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway employees, it became a children’s psychiatric hospital during the 1980s. For its recent metamorphosis into a boutique hotel, Hotel Parq Central designers drew on the building’s past to create an all-encompassing encounter for guests, something more than can be captured in a single word or phrase, such as “historic Southwest,” “former hospital,” or “Italianate.” The hotel describes itself as “the perfect blend of contemporary comfort and historical elegance.” American writer Flannery O'Connor once observed, “The meaning of a story has to be embodied in it, has to be made concrete in it. A story is a way to say something that can't be said any other way, and it takes every word in the story to say what the meaning is. You tell a story because a statement would be inadequate.” O'Connor's profound observation about stories can also be applied to guests’ ideal interaction with a hotel interior. Partners Heather Van Luchene and Steffany Hollingsworth, of HVL Interiors of Santa Fe, designed Hotel Parq Central’s interior so that guests can gather pieces of the story from each area of the hotel. Like unpacking a box of cherished memorabilia, guests examine each memento and wonder, where did it come from? Why was it kept? What was the world like back then? Vintage ephemera, such as toy trains, AT&SF railroad maps, and Albuquerque postcards, grace the hotel’s “drawing room.” Guest room corridors feature niches that display artifacts that include vintage hatboxes, railroad pegs and train maps, and a doctor's bag and its original contents. Each collection of objects is unique and entices guests to ponder it for clues as to the part of the story it tells. According to tile designer Kim White, “Décor defines the hotel,” and in this case, “hotel guests can glimpse a bygone time in New Mexico’s history and take a step into the future.” The lobby boasts distinctive, tiled columns that reference the era in which the


More details from Hotel Parq Central

Photo: Wendy McEahern

residential hospitality licensed interior designers 1012 Marquez Place 205A Santa Fe NM 87505

505 983 3601 205

Simplicity is the ultimate luxur y...





1512 Pacheco St. Building A 105 Santa Fe, NM 87505 505-992-0505

building was constructed. Similarly, the original tile work surrounding the new exterior windows was replicated by White for the remodel. In each guest room, a large framed postcard of Santa Fe Railroad Hospital catches the eye, then the shimmer of a piece of Depression glass in a shadow box, and finally a robin's egg blue throw at the foot of the bed. In the Apothecary Lounge, the fourth-floor rooftop bar, a 1926 prescription for liquor adorns fabric on the barstool backs. Antique bottle labels decorate one wall, and a 1920s coffin carrier serves as a table base in one of the bar's VIP areas. While these items can be appreciated for their color, beauty and composition, they also invite the viewer’s imaginative interpretation. At Hotel Parq Central, the authenticity of the experience goes deeper than thoughtful interior design: collectively, New Mexico furniture makers, blacksmiths, decorative painters, tile makers and suppliers have contributed to the magic that gives the interior its soul and connection to the community. From handcrafted furnishings, fixtures, and custom wool rugs to the bench-made-chess-table, each item represents a lengthy, thoughtful collaboration between artisan or vendor and interior designer. The result is products that work functionally because of their durability and ease of use, and aesthetically because of their timelessness.

Russ Vogt

Six Pole Reed Ceramic Sculpture 72 inches tall

Each of the unexpected touches at Hotel Parq Central causes guests to pause and smile. It is in this magical moment that memories are evoked and new ones are created. It is in this magical moment that the hotel becomes more than just a place to rest one's head.  For more about HVL and other commerical and residential designers, visit

225 Canyon Road • Santa Fe, NM 505-984-1688 • 207

Barbara Felix Architecture + Design

Woven Architecture ™


505 820 1555 + 505 820 1527 F 511 AGUA FRIA STREET SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO 87501


Commercial vs Residential Design

hen asked the difference between commercial and residential design, Santa Fe architect and interior designer Barbara Felix explains that “residential design is about designing and building a sanctuary for an individual or family; it’s about their needs and desires” and providing a place for reenergizing and reconnecting. Commercial design is about developing larger spaces that encompass many people’s needs and desires, and in doing so reflect a vision of how the community sees itself.

Q uestions for Barbara Felix

She points out other differences. Commercial design must meet requirements related to product durability, fire and smoke, and accessibility. Also, because of economy of scale, commercial projects generally entail custom product design. Residential clients, on the other hand, tend to be nervous about custom designed elements because of the perceived cost and additional time required. Regardless of the project, Felix believes it must tell the client’s “story.” Felix cites function as critical to a building’s everyday use, but identifies form as enabling the vision to soar and connect with the soul. This is particularly true with remodels of historic buildings. Felix finds these projects “incredibly intriguing and challenging...because you have the privilege of following in someone else’s footsteps—and adding to the original storyline.” She views these projects as opportunities to research, document and understand the culture when the building was built, as well as during subsequent renovations. Historic remodels—like the one she did for La Fonda Hotel in Santa Fe—“help us understand a bit more about who we are, and what was important to us,” and they “allow an opportunity to showcase what we as a culture value as significant.” 

A commercial project by Barbara Felix Architect and Design: Acoma Cultural Center (gift shop photo by Kate Russell) 209

Anthony Abbate’s Yucca Twins

archival pigment on 100% rag, floating on aluminum dibond, 61 X 48”

Photo: Wendy McEarhern & Parasol Productions

Discover the alluring world of luxury outdoor living Furniture, Accessories, Outdoor Kitchens & more... 210


530 South Guadalupe / Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-989-7300 /


1512 Pacheco St., A104 Santa Fe, NM 87505 505.983.7055


Photo: Wendy McEarhern & Parasol Productions

interior design • antiques • furniture • accessories 212

150 South St. Francis Drive • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • 505-984-8544



r u g

e x t r a o rd i n a r y

custom handmade contemporary rugs

Ikat Collection CHAPAN


in the design district @ FOUR 1512 Pacheco Street, C202, Santa Fe NM 87505 505 995 8411

David O. Marlow

Antique Warehouse Mexican Doors & Ranch Furniture Spanish Colonial Antiques 530 South Guadalupe Street • Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-984-1159 •



Home & Ambiance

Fine Linens for Bed & Bath

Luxury Linens • Down • Bath Towels • Robes • Cashmere • Fragrances 145 Lincoln Avenue • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • 505 984-2008 • 216








Oriental Rugs and Furnishings


9 x 12

214 Galisteo Street Santa Fe, NM 87501 Complimentary Parking Ph: 505-820-2231 Toll Free 1-866-777-8337


Photo by Karen Novotny

simply delicious!

218 • 505.820.0239 • ArtYard Lofts at the Railyard • Santa Fe


For the Full Seret Experience Visit

The Inn of the Five Graces by Ira and Sylvia Seret

220 150 E. DeVargas St., Santa Fe, NM 87501

Seret & Sons Rugs - Fine Furnishings Architectural elements

In the Heart of Downtown Santa Fe with over 80,000 Sq. Ft. of inspiration and over 40 years of design expertise “One of the World’s great shopping experiences.” -Condé Nast t 505.988.9151 f 505.982.3027


Having It Made


Literally! by Victoria Price

lthough Santa Fe is a small, high-desert town of 75,000 people, the City Different has long been recognized as a cultural center of international importance. As the second largest art market in the United States, it boasts an extraordinarily large number of fine artists, jewelers, potters, woodworkers, weavers, ironworkers, and designers. This concentration of creativity sets us apart from many other places in the world.

Not coincidentally, many Santa Fe businesses call on this local talent when their clients need custom designs. And it’s not just local residents who benefit; visitors come from around the world to work with Santa Fe designers and artisans to enhance their homes. Annie O’Carroll, for more than 20 years one of Santa Fe’s best-known interior designers, sums it up this way: “In Santa Fe, we are lucky to have so many exceptional craftspeople who allow me to provide my clients with better quality pieces than they can find on the ready-made market, as well as custom sizes and custom finishes. I can collaborate with my clients to create something that is uniquely made just for them.” She and I concur that Santa Fe’s affinity for custom products stems in part from the fact that compared with big cities, we have fewer resources available. Moreover, Santa Fe homes tend to be less traditional than homes other places. Undulating adobe walls and unusual room shapes, hallmarks of Northern New Mexico architecture, do not always lend themselves to ready-made pieces. In addition, we have both noticed that many furniture and fabric companies are discontinuing product lines at an alarming rate, as well as limiting the number of pieces they offer. This means fewer sizes, fewer finishes, and fewer options in general. Interior designer Lisa Samuel, whose furniture designs have garnered acclaim throughout the region, recently completed a project in the historic district in which every article was custom made. One piece, for example, was an elegant, modern, walnut buffet; the intricate pattern in the metalwork on its doors echoes off the design in the rug. Such meticulous attention to detail is reflected in the design throughout the client’s home. Samuel debunks the myth that custom furniture design has to be more expensive, noting that there are many ways to make it cost effective. But most importantly, custom design permits greater functionality, the most significant factor in any piece. Whereas ready-made pieces generally offer fewer configuration options, a custom piece can be designed to address all functional needs. And she reminds us that it isn't a good trade-off to buy a less expensive, ready-made piece if it isn't functional. 222


Update, Reface, Transform

A Completely Refaced Kitchen presented by

Carved Custom Cabinets





When Leslie and Chip Livingston began American Country Collection 25 years ago, they were known for their high-quality antiques and antique reproductions. Their ability to tailor the design of those reproductions to clients’ specific needs convinced them of the importance of custom furniture. As their business came to reflect a more contemporary sensibility, they began working with furniture companies that allowed such modifications. This has become more prevalent, Leslie explains, because the industry recognizes the degree to which interior designers drive the market. She is proud that the majority of the upholstery companies they represent even allow modifications to their furniture frames’ height, depth, and width, a radical change in the furniture business that is a boon to clients. Leslie acknowledges this is usually possible only at the high end of the market; however, she points out that when it comes to improving a room’s flow and functionality, it is much less costly to go with custom furniture than to remodel. When Page Kelleher opened Santa Fe Modern five years ago, she anticipated running a straightforward retail business that carried contemporary furniture and home accessory lines. But she quickly discovered that when searching for pieces for a particular environment, her clients felt limited by the sizes, colors and styles available. “What I really like about doing custom pieces is working with the artisans and as the liaison between the client and the artisans,” says Kelleher. “It makes me feel connected to the community and that my clients and I are supporting the great artists and craftspeople we have here in Santa Fe.” Kelleher’s clients enjoy having something made for them by an artisan whom they have gotten to know. Moreover, locally-made is environmentally friendly: no shipping or wasteful packing materials. After 26 years of building custom homes, husband-and-wife team Chris Clemens and Lannie Loeks recognized the need for a greener business model. 224

Their new venture, Carved Custom Cabinets, specializes in making artistic, personalized cabinetry design accessible to homeowners. By using the existing cabinetry’s infrastructure and simply re-facing the doors and drawers, they can retrofit kitchens and baths without a total tearout. This saves time and money, and it avoids the need to scrap and replace the existing infrastructure. “We saw an opportunity to offer personalized, hand-carved cabinetry beautifully finished for kitchen and bath without the custom price tag,” explains Loeks. “Each installation we complete is like a personalized piece of art.” In addition to working with designers and retail stores, some artisans and craftspeople open their studios directly to the public. For more than 20 years, woodworker Earl Nesbitt has built one-of-a-kind pieces that feature a variety of elegant solid wood, which he considers a “versatile, durable, renewable resource with a friendly presence.” His sculptural style and blend of vibrant natural materials have kept him at the forefront of his craft. Nesbitt’s creations pair traditional joinery with innovations such as bent laminates and interlocking pegs that allow for wood movement. Drawing on the West’s rich tradition of ironworking, Christopher Thomson creates sculptures, architectural elements, furniture, and lighting pieces. His inspiration often comes from his experiences in nature, such as hiking, camping and kayaking throughout the Southwest. From smaller items, such as candlesticks and fireplace tools, to architectural elements used in large public spaces, Thomson continually pushes his craft to new levels. The opportunity to watch him work with his forge and anvil, to see the sparks and hear the clang of metal on metal, gives clients insight into the timeless and complex process of creating elegant steel designs. Thomson’s blend of rough-hewn metals and innovative natural forms make him a modern master.

Some of Santa Fe’s sophisticated world-traveling denizens tap their global connections to bring the work of artisans from around the world to the City Different. Among the first to inject an ethnographic flavor into the Northern New Mexico aesthetic were Ira and Sylvia Seret. Seret and Sons' inspired, international mix of textiles and architectural elements was at the heart of the city’s formidable impact on style during the 1990s. When photographer and textile enthusiast Barbara Lenihan opened Pandora’s, an elegant emporium specializing in a wide range of bedding and other fabric home decor items, her goal was to create a signature product line of exceptional, one-of-a-kind products that embodied ethnic elements from her travels to Asia, Africa, and Latin America. From sumptuous silk to colorful cashmere, Lenihan believes these products form a “tangible thread between the lives of the American patrons and the artists worldwide who create them.” Similarly, after Natalie Fitz-Gerald moved from her native South Africa to Santa Fe (via New York), she opened Casa Nova. She describes her mission as “recontextualizing the extraordinary art, craft and contemporary design pieces from Africa and other exotic places in the world in a cultural fusion that epitomizes ‘the art of living and living with art.’” Fitz-Gerald works directly with African cooperatives to create colorful and innovative pieces using a wide range of traditional and unusual materials geared to the regional market. The New Mexico-Africa link supports and nurtures local African artists, craftspeople, and designers by helping them create sustainable livelihoods and a higher standard of living. When architect Robin Gray was a 21-year-old weaver and fiber artist, she traveled to the Middle East and fell in love with the idea of being a rug designer. She quips, “It just took a while to get it going!” Along with her architecture prac-

EARL NESBITT designer ~ craftsman

custom made fine furniture cabinetry • kitchens Specializing in one~of~a~kind pieces of collectible wood furniture since 1989 Explore my online gallery today 505.592.9265


tice, Gray now designs gorgeous handmade silk and wool rugs. Hand-tufted in India, they are customized in both size and an amazing range of colors to complement clients’ spaces. Gray feels passionately about belonging to Rugmark, which ensures there is no child labor and that rugs are made in clean, sanitary, and safe work environments. Moreover, she is proud that in this increasingly mechanized age, she is helping preserve the dying art of rug making. Despite being one-of-a-kind, Gray’s custom-designed rugs are priced comparably to other handmade rugs, and often are less expensive than some sold by the larger rug companies. In my own interior design and retail businesses, I, too, have come to rely more and more on custom furniture design. I treasure my relationships with Santa Fe’s extraordinary artisans and craftspeople. I might be working with a retail client who falls in love with the innovative steel and wood designs of an artisan such as P.J. Rogers, to design a piece for his or her space. Or I might be collaborating with a venerable company such as Samora Woodworks for a client’s kitchen contemporary remodel. My job description, as I see it, is to listen to my clients, and then provide the ideas and resources to help realize their goals. With custom design and the wealth of talent in Santa Fe, the sky’s the limit!  Victoria Price is a designer, art historian, writer, public speaker, and screenwriter. Her lifestyle store, Victoria Price Art & Design in Santa Fe, New Mexico, is well known throughout the Southwest for its unique blend of home furnishings and contemporary, regional, and ethnographic art. Her extensive, acclaimed interior design business offers complete design services from remodels to design-build ground up construction to clients both in and out of state. An accomplished writer, she has written for many national magazines, newspapers, and television programs, including the New York Times and A&E’s Biography. Articles about Price and her work have appeared in national and international publications, including USA Today, People, Travel & Leisure, Art & Auction, Sunset, and Western Interiors. Custom Design Images: Christopher Thomson with some hot metal ready to be worked (photo by Bruce Dale), a striking Robin Gray rug design, and a state-of-the-art home entertainment system set up by Constellation Electronics

Custom Entertainment! Say “custom design,” and most people don’t instant-

ly think of electronics, but what could be niftier than a custom-designed entertainment system, home theater, or TV? Or what about custom lighting controls, home automation, or electronic window shades and drapes? For more than 20 years, Santa Fe’s Constellation Home Electronics has been integrating electronics and technology into customers’ residences and businesses. Constellation’s Jason Suttle points out that having exactly what you want and having it be easy to use “doesn't cost substantially more


than piecing products together and doing it yourself”— assuming you have the technological savvy and patience to do so! Suttle says professional designers and installers “know all the tips and tricks to setting it up, managing the wires, and programming and configuring it to work well and be easy to use.” The “easy-to-use” aspect is important, he opines, because “the equipment is supposed to be fun, not frustrating.” He recommends involving electronics professionals in the early planning stages of a design, but says they can be brought in “at any point, even after the room or home is complete.” Ahhh! Pass the remote!

Located in the heart of historic downtown Santa Fe, Constellation Home Electronics offers a wide selection of the finest brands of electronics with a commitment to uncompromising service.



art & design

Modern Home Lifestyle Store & Interior Design Services

Spot-on Design 1512 Pacheco St Santa Fe, NM 87505 505-982-8632 228

photos: Eric Swanson/Santa Fe Catalogue


Please Call Us For An Appointment 505-988-4594 631 Old Santa Fe Trail, #1•Santa Fe, New Mexico•


Sa nta K i l i m

A Cultural Experience You Won’t Want to Miss

Photo: Wendy mcEahern & Parasol Productions

Architectural Elements, Custom Upholstery, Fine Rugs & Textiles

717 canyon road santa fe, nm 87501 ~ 505.986.0340 ~ 230

Photo: David O. Marlow


Antiques, Reproductions, Custom Furnishings, Accessories, Fabrics & Rugs 401 West San Francisco St • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • 505-989-7948 •


photography courtesy Karen Novotny

2011 Media Sponsors 232

Santa Fe interior designers present

7th annual


September 30 – October 8, 2011 Design Santa Fe, produced by the City Different's nationally renowned design professionals and business owners, will educate, stimulate and inspire through its week-long forum of events.

Mark your calendars and visit for a schedule of events, tickets & information. 233

Wood & Iron Furniture • Stone Tile, Sinks, Mouldings Carved Doors • Architectural Details • Fine Art Sculpture • Sconces & Chandeliers • Stained Glass Custom Orders • Installation • Architectural Services

Santa Fe • 3136 Cerrillos Rd • 505-471-7400 (Cerrillos at Calle del Cielo)

Albuquerque • 3741 NM Hwy 528 • 505-897-3200 (Corner Hwy 528 and Cottonwood)

Designed from the Heart, Made by Hand

Exclusively deigned, awe-inspiring furniture and more of Old Mexico and New Mexico

Sanbusco Center • 500 Montezuma Ave • Santa Fe, NM 505-471-7400 • 234

Photo by Brad Bealmear ©The Santa Fe Catalogue

asian adobe Antique Furniture, Art and Accessories

1 block west of the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum 310 Johnson Street Santa Fe 505-992-6846 Monday - Saturday 10 am to 5 pm 235

Gretel Underwood Throws, Belgian, Irish & Haussman Portuguese Linens Exclusive New Mexico distributor of Missoni & Home Treasures Sergio Martinez hand-woven rugs Personally designed duvets, coverlets & pillows

RUGS & HOME DECORATING ACCESSORIES. CUSTOM ORDERS. Sanbusco Market Center • 500 Montezuma Avenue • Santa Fe, NM 87501 505-982-3298 • fax 505-983-0548 • 236 Open Monday through Saturday, 10 am to 6 pm • Sunday, 12 pm to 5 pm

photo: Peter Vitale

Make your towels and sheets Green with Organic Cottons, Bamboo, Modal

B O S S H A R D art



COme Out tO O’Keeffe COuntRy! Visit our historic compound and see our 2011-12 collection, the very finest from around the world, in a tranquil old New Mexico setting. #10 County Road 187, Abiquiu, N.M. 87510 (Right across from the O’Keeffe Home) Please call ahead: 505-685-0061 • Email: 237

FRAN K SECKLER Sculpture Furniture studio: 575-770-8869 gallery: 575-758-7402 located on the Taos Plaza


Come see what’s inside...

New Location...

Graystone Furniture & The Sofa Gallery 815 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos • 575-751-1266 Hwy 522, Questa • 575-586-0435


ARTsmart presents the 15th Annual

Santa Fe Join us February 24-26, 2012 for a weekend of fine ART, FOOD, WINE, FASHION & HOMES benefiting ART programs for Santa Fe’s youth A GREAT TIME FOR A CREATIVE CAUSE Santa Fe’s premier winter celebration! Shake the winter doldrums in this moveable feast created by Santa Fe’s best restaurants and top galleries… and support the arts in Santa Fe public schools. Visit for more details and updates on participating artists, galleries, restaurants and lodgers. Or contact us at, 505.603.4643, or at the ARTsmart office at 102 E. Water St, Santa Fe.

Sunday, October 2, 2011 ARTsmart Golf Tournament 240

with Champion Golfer Kathy Whitworth at Towa Golf Club, Buffalo Thunder Resort. Visit for details.

The 2011-12 Essential Nonprofit There are more than a thousand nonprofits in the region The Essential Guide serves. With the ever-growing needs of so many deserving organizations, it is hard to single out only a few for recognition. For this reason, we acknowledge both past and current honorees on our website: The Essential Guide supports these deserving organizations with a financial contribution and by bringing them to our readers’ attention. We encourage our readers, if so moved, to make a donation as well. We hope that with our help and that of our readers, these organizations will survive and even thrive in these challenging economic times. This year we have chosen Fine Arts for Children & Teens (FACT) as our nonprofit honoree. As a board member of ArtSmart and underwriters of their events we are quite familiar with the great work done in our community by FACT, and although ArtSmart makes an annual donation to FACT, we know many more youngsters would be served with greater support from others. A 2010 recipient of the President’s Committee for the Arts and Humanities Youth Program Award, FACT is now in its 21st year of bringing outstanding visual art education programs to 4,500 Northern New Mexico children and youth. First Lady Michelle Obama commended FACT for “using achievement in the arts as a bridge to achievement in life.” FACT’s innovative, engaging art lessons introduce students to art history, art language and handson art making. Students build a strong foundation in the visual arts while discovering their own unique creative capacity. Highly qualified, dynamic and dedicated art instructors and program administrators collaborate to develop and implement FACT programs. Instructors provide a welcoming and nurturing learning environment that fosters healthy mental and emotional development. Life skills, such as tolerance, honest communication, self-confidence, and a belief in personal abilities, are fundamental to the success of all young people. It’s a FACT: Art saves lives! Because FACT programs enrich our community in a profound way and bring joy to everyone who is involved, we are pleased to feature them as this year’s honoree. For additional information about FACT, to make a donation, or to volunteer, please call Julia Bergen, Executive Director, at 505-992-2787, or visit


Fine Arts for Children & Teens


hi ghd e s e r t ga l l e r y . ne t

High Desert Gallery 308 San Felipe NW (Old Town) Albuquerque, NM 87104 505.247.0066

Representing Robert Rivera – Award-winning Southwestern artist 242

essential excursions


by Nicole Beals

In the quiet sanctuary of Old Town, Albuquerque natives and tourists can explore the charm and beauty of a traditional Spanish village. Its bricked walkways have been packed solidly in the ground from countless footsteps over the centuries. The walkways wind around both new construction and old adobes, telling the story of Old Town's evolution from an ancient Spanish Village into a present-day community brimming with history, culture and modern amenities.

Albuquerque Museum >

ABQ Old Town

Church St. NW

2 1 3

N. Plaza St NW

The Plaza


Old Town Rd.

W n Rd. N Tow

San Pasquale Ave. NW

Romero St. NW

S. Plaza St. NW

Trig Pa

San Felipe St. NW

19th St. NW

Historic 66

Marble Ave

State Ave

Albuquerque 40 from US-40, take Rio Grande Blvd.

Old Town from US-25, take Lomas Blvd.


Ce nt ra


s Blvd

. NW

.SW ve lA


Rd. NW

San Felipe St. NW

While visiting Old Town, allow its unique, serene setting to work its magic. You will experience a world where old meets new, and cultures are intertwined not just by history, but also through art, food and friendly faces. î Ş

Romero St. NW

One Old Town building still serving its original purpose is the Church of San Felipe de Neri. Built in 1706, the old church collapsed in 1792. It was rebuilt the following year in the place where it now stands. The church still offers liturgical services and is considered by many as the spiritual heart of Albuquerque.

Charlevoix St. NW

Rio Grande Blv d. NW

The long-standing adobe buildings in and around the Old Town area are home to more than 150 shops, boutiques, galleries, artist studios and restaurants. On Romero Street visit Andrews Pueblo Pottery, where exceptional contemporary and historic pottery, katsina dolls, fetish carvings, baskets, beadwork, jewelry and serigraph landscapes are displayed along with oil paintings and wood sculptures by award-winning Navajo artist Sheldon Harvey. A few doors down is the Rio Grande Gallery. It showcases Native American art, and featuries works by Ray Wiger, RC Gorman and Frank Howell. On the other side of the Plaza, off San Felipe Street, visit High Desert Gallery. It represents award-winning Southwestern artist Robert Rivera and carries designer jewelry, glasswork and other art. Be sure to stop by the gallery's Red Rock CafĂŠ, which serves Greek cuisine.


19th St. NW

Albuquerque Old Town

a b q a dv e rti s e r m a p k ey 1 Andrews Pueblo Pottery & Art Gallery p. 245 2 High Desert Gallery p. 242 3 Rio Grande Gallery p. 17

"San Felipe Crosses in Old Town" by Bill d'Ellis, represented at Albuquerque Photographers Gallery



by Elise Waters Olonia

A strong sense of community, celebration, and perseverance characterize the small town of Madrid, New Mexico. Pronounced MAD-rid, it is located near Santa Fe on the historic Turquoise Trail (Hwy 14, a National Scenic Byway). This gem of a town is much more than a roadside attraction: it’s a destination. More than a century and a half later, the influence of Madrid’s mid-1800s mining town origins is evident.

In one sense, to “mine” refers to excavating minerals and precious stones. Today, Madrid “mines” the rich resources of hundreds of talented and independent-minded artists. The town is studded with intriguing galleries and enticing shops, and it hosts lively festivals, colorful parades, and cultural events. How did an otherwise quiet coal-mining town develop such a sense of identity and pride? For that, credit goes to Oscar Huber, superintendent of mines of the Albuquerque and Cerrillos Coal Company. In the 1920’s, Huber formed the Employees Club. Miners were required to donate $.50-$1 a month, with the money going to community causes. Miners were also required to participate in town events. The result? Holiday parades, athletic teams, parades, and social activities became catalysts that unified the village. Certain events continue today, and some draw a national and international audience. Perhaps the most notable example is Madrid’s Christmas lights display, which began in the early 1920s. Powered by the company’s coal fed generators, 150,000 lights illuminated displays created by artisans and laborers from both the town and northern New Mexico. World War II brought an end to the Christmas lights display, and in the 1950s, the mines closed. Fortunately, Madrid eventually reinstituted its Christmas lights celebration. The display was so dazzling that some major airlines once routed their flights over the village, aglow with more than 50,000 lights. Driving into Madrid, visitors have a sense that its essence hasn’t changed. The town has a quiet residential area, yet a main street that bustles. Former coalminer homes, narrow structures with inviting wooden porches, now house more than 40 galleries and stores. There’s the Old West Saloon, the gateway to the Old Coal Mine Museum. Open seasonally, its exhibits include an antique steam locomotive, antique cars and trucks, and mining equipment and medical supplies from a bygone era. Throughout the year, many of Madrid’s 300 residents and the Madrid Merchant Association work together to coordinate a panoply of colorful celebrations. Their goals are two-fold: to preserve the town’s heritage and raise funds for the Madrid Cultural Projects program. During winter months, this cooperative spirit is reflected by stores staying open late, and on weekends providing refreshments and welcoming guests with stagecoach rides and strolling carolers. Madrid’s festivals, parades, and music and art events attract audiences from as far as China and Australia. Madrid’s Bluegrass Festival, World Music and Dance Festival (aka the “MAD World Festival”), and Crawdaddy Blues Fest also draw appreciative audiences. Gypsy Festival performers typically include, among others, a circus troupe, magician, juggler, belly dancer, and fortuneteller, along with a variety of musical performances, vendors and artisans selling their cre246

View of the Mining Town c. 1925 by T. Harmon Parkhurst. Courtesy of the Palace of the Governors Photo Archives (NMHM/DCA)

Photo © Eric Swanson

Seppanen & Daughters

Fine Textiles •

t i b e ta n

n ava j o

o a x ac a n


2879 Main St. Madrid, NM 87010 Tel 505.424.7470 Fax 505.471.0631





Also Available: Bronze Sheep & Fountains


2854-D STATE HIGHWAY 14 – MADRID, NEW MEXICO 87010 505.438.6202 w w w. i n d i g o a r t g a l l e r y. c o m • i n d i g o g a l l e r y @ e a r t h l i n k . n e t





2854-D STATE HIGHWAY 14 – MADRID, NEW MEXICO 87010 505.438.6202 w w w. i n d i g o a r t g a l l e r y. c o m • i n d i g o g a l l e r y @ e a r t h l i n k . n e t


ations, and food and beverages. From a Critter Run to benefit the animal shelter, to the Madrid Chile Festival, Summer’s End Fest, and events at the Madrid ballpark (with its grandstand recently restored to its 1920s glory), “Madroids” have something for everyone. (For specific event dates, see or The Fourth of July parade involves the entire village, including adults with hula hoops, as well as live music and a quirky mélange of livestock and motorcycles. No one sits along the roadside: spectators and entertainers dance together down the street. Hungry? For some of New Mexico’s best roadhouse cuisine, head for the Mine Shaft Tavern, established in 1946. As you wait for your green chile burger and hand-cut fries, you might hear the sound of spurs clicking against its wood floor. The expansive bar is lined with patrons in cowboy hats, leather biker caps, and baseball caps. These locals are friendly and welcoming, and add a dash of warmth and color. Year round, the historical tavern features live jazz, acoustic rock, and blues. But, if you want just a small snack and good cup of Joe, try Java Junction. Lining Madrid’s main road is an eclectic blend of galleries and stores filled with collectible antiques, fine arts and clothing. The spirit of the Old West permeates many of the storeowner/artists’ arts and crafts. Proprietors genuinely care about their visitors and will freely refer them to their neighbors, to help them find what they’re looking for. Many fascinating galleries dot Madrid. In the Conley Studio Pottery shop, 30-year Madrid resident Lisa Conley displays both her own earth-toned pottery and the art of other regional artists working in wood, ceramics, and other media. Out of respect for the environment, she uses an electric kiln rather than a wood-fueled one. The name of Color and Light Gallery says it all: it is a bright, light-infused setting for work by 38 artists, such as Dean Dovey’s landscapes and Sue Van Dame’s elegant jewelry. At his Range West Gallery, Joshua Gannon displays bubbling fountains he fashions from locally mined, richly colored granite and basalt. The Johnsons of Madrid Galleries of Fine and Fiber Art, housed in a building that was originally a garage, features the visual arts of New Mexico and the American Southwest. At Weasel and Fitz Gallery, established in 2007 by Paul Wesley Dickson and Susan Fitzgerald, the focus is “recycled found objects and local folk art with a whimsical twist.” Gifted Hands features both authentic indigenous and local art. Located on the boardwalk in the center of town, Indigo Gallery presents contemporary sculpture and paintings, many of which are inspired by ancient symbols. For example, owner/artist Jill Shwaiko’s paintings and bronze sculptures feature a delightful image of a bighorn sheep, inspired by Anasazi petroglyph images. Indigo also represents a host of other local and nationally known sculptors and painters. Redbone, a newcomer on the historic boardwalk, displays a variety of antique furniture, clothing, and accessories. It would be hard to walk through, even at a brisk pace, and leave without at least one chic and unexpected decorative item or piece of apparel. From coal mining town to ghost town to thriving art community. It’s unlikely that Madrid’s original townspeople could ever have envisioned their town’s future, much less the diverse cross-section of talented individuals who now live and work there. What they would understand, though, is Madrid’s present day inhabitants’ love of community, respect for their remarkable surroundings, and welcoming hearts.  For more information about Madrid and the Turquoise Trail, go to or And to find out more about the writer, Elise Waters Olonia, see page 182. 250

STONE ARTIST JOSHUA GANNON Stone Fountains, Sculpture & Art 2861 Highway 14 Madrid, New Mexico 505 474-0925

251 the magic of life

Stay the night in our B&B and wake up to the best cup of Java in northern New Mexico!

s.m. kelly Rose Belief oil, 12” x 12”

#1 Firehouse Lane • Madrid, NM 87010 505 424-7877 •

Painted Horse Gallery

Featuring fine art by Dean Dovey and handcrafted sterling jewelry by Sue Van Dame

Fine Art, Jewelry & Gifts 252 252

2850 Highway 14 • Madrid, NM 87010 505-473-5900 •


2855 Highway 14 Madrid, NM 87010 505-438-2772 • 877-308-8884

Madrid’s refueling station for body, mind and spirit

Follow the Turquoise Trail (NM 14) to Madrid...

Weasel & Fitz m a d r i d a dv e rti s e r m a p k ey 1 Color & Light p. 252 2 Gifted Hands p. 253 3 Indigo Gallery pp. 248-249 4 Java Junction p. 252 5 Painted Horse Gallery p. 252 6 Range West p. 251 7 Seppanen & Daughters p. 247 8 Weasel & Fitz p. 253 Paa-Ko Ridge Golf Club p. 189

Purveyors of Curious Thangs

Whimsical Recycled & Folk Ar t, Jewelry, and More 2878 Highway 14 Madrid , NM 87010 505-474-4893 Featuring Over 25 Ar tists, Primarily from New Mexico left: Steve Meadows 253253

The High & Low Roads to Taos there is much to see. Set aside a leisurely day for your excursion; a summer or fall day is especially nice. Begin the High Road in Santa Fe and go north, or begin in Taos and go south. Either way, you’ll enjoy an array of high desert, mountains, forests, and small farms. The route is simple, but use a map. From Santa Fe, take U.S. Highway 285/84 North. Just past Pojoaque (pronounced puh-WOCK-ee), go right on N.M. 503 East (Cundiyo Road), a two-lane country road lined with towering cottonwoods. As you wind through the Nambé River Valley, take in the huge New Mexican sky and vast open spaces. Gradually, civilization begins to drop away, and you find yourself in pink-and-green rolling hills fit for a movie set.


he Low Road between Santa Fe and Taos traverses the valleys along the Rio Grande. In contrast, the High Road is a scenic byway that meanders not only through breathtaking landscapes, but also through tiny, historically and culturally rich Hispanic villages. In these isolated mountain towns you can still feel the influence of early Spanish settlers who arrived four centuries ago. You’ll encounter artists who welcome you into their homes, studios, and galleries. Although the drive is only 70 miles,


After traveling 7.5 miles on N.M. 503, watch for the left turn onto N.M. 98 (Juan Medina Road) to Chimayó: it’s easy to miss! As you continue across the open, rolling high desert, the road drops down into the fertile Chimayó Valley, noted for its fruit orchards and chile. A sign will guide you to Santuario de Chimayó, a 200-year-old church that annually draws tens of thousands of visitors. Because its legendary sacred dirt is said to bring healing and miracles, the Santuario has been called the “Lourdes of the Southwest.” Farther down the road is Rancho de Chimayó Restauranté, which celebrates its 46th anniversary this year. Its setting is a picturesque, century-old adobe hacienda that was once part of the Jaramillo homestead. Sip a margarita in the sunroom bar or on the patio at sunset—lovely! In cold weather, opt for cozy fireside dining inside. Indoors or out, you’ll enjoy fine traditional and contemporary native New Mexican cuisine. Save room for flan or one of Rancho de Chimayó’s famous sopaipillas. Just beyond Rancho de Chimayó, the road ends at the junction with N.M. 76. At Ortega’s Weaving Shop seventh- and eighth-generation artisans sell their rugs, blankets, purses, jackets, and vests, as well as Navajo jewelry and Santa Clara black pottery, all ideal gifts for those back home. Turn left on 76 and go

a mile to Chimayó Trading & Mercantile to see their fine pottery, textiles, jewelry, and paintings. To continue on the High Road, go back through Chimayó, staying on N.M. 76. Before leaving Chimayó, though, visit Centinela Traditional Arts. It represents nearly 30 local weavers, and its rooms are overflowing with fabulous woven clothing, rugs, pillows, and more. Inside Centinela you'll find the work of Irvin Trujillo, a National Heritage Fellow and four-time Grand Prize winner at the Santa Fe Spanish Market, whose work is in the Smithsonian collection. Just a bit farther down the road is Oviedo Carvings and Bronze. As the name suggests, its focus is traditional woodcarvings and contemporary southwestern bronzes. In addition to creating art, the Oviedos are dedicated to preserving rare breeds of sheep, donkeys, and Spanish-cross horses that were introduced to the area by Spaniards four centuries ago. N.M. 76 ascends a lofty 3,000 feet as it winds its way across the Sangre de Cristo Mountains’ pinon- and juniper-studded western slopes and national forests. Native American pueblos and Hispanic villages also punctuate this unique, creased and crinkled part of the world. Take the turn-off to Córdova, a charming village above a verdant river valley. Just as Chimayó is known for its weavers, Córdova is known for its carvers. It gained fame as the home of a woodcarving school founded in the 1920s. You’ll want to visit the sophisticated space at Castillo Gallery. It showcases Paula Castillo’s abstract metal sculptures and acrylic paintings, Terry Mulert’s sought-after carvings and wood sculptures, as well as work by local carvers. Beyond Córdova, the road winds upward as if to the sky. Perched atop the high mesa, with the snow-kissed Truchas Peaks as a backdrop, is Truchas. Once a Spanish outpost, it appears to cling to the rim of a deep canyon. Its tin-roofed, pink adobe buildings have changed little in a century. The ancient village is home to an eclectic community of artists

Douglas Coffin Abiquiu, NM 505.685.4510 255


Handweaving Studio and Fiber Art Gallery P.O. Box 306 Dixon, NM 87527 505-579-4111

• Weaving • Basketry • Apparel • Home Furnishings • Classes • Repair & Restoration Services

Please visit us in the unique rock building in the heart of Dixon, NM Mon–Thu 10am to 5 pm or by appointment 256

Since 2005

Betsy Williams “Oval Flask with Line” Ceramic

Southwest Stoneworks since 1975 • Stonecarving Studio • Stone Benches & Fountains • Summer Stonecarving Workshops • Resource for Stone & Carving Tools

RINCONADA Located between mile markers 22 & 23 on Highway 68 (the main road between Santa Fe & Taos) 50 miles north of Santa Fe 20 miles south of Taos Wednesday – Sunday 10-5 • 505.579.9179

Mark Saxe “Sunset Outside My Window” Belgian black marble and gold leaf

Exceptional Ceramics Sculpture, Photography, Paintings, & Tea Ware


who work and show in their studios and galleries. As you approach the town, watch for a sign with big, artful crows that directs you to Bill Loyd’s narrow drive. In summer you’ll cross the fast-flowing acequia and enter his bright flower garden. Resonant, deep-toned wind chimes, temple bells, gongs, and recycled metal sculptures are his specialties. Also located here is the Anna Karin Gallery, where you’ll find her refined, polished oil paintings and a wide-ranging mix of pieces by seasoned artists who live in or near Truchas. Continue farther into Truchas, passing for now the left turn to Taos (the road in town becomes N.M. 75). Toward the mountains is the Judith Hert Studio, a refurbished adobe. Here, she shows her bright geometric abstracts and traditional watercolor paintings. Next door is the large, elegant, museum-like Cardona-Hine Gallery. It is home to longtime local artists Barbara McCauley and Alvaro Cardona-Hine, two internationally known and collected New Mexico painters. Farther down the road, take a sharp right to the Jeane George Weigel Studio, where she displays her bold mixed media abstract work. The last two stops in this direction are Hand Artes Gallery, on the right, and Móntez Gallery, on the left. Hand Artes specializes in contemporary fine art and local folk art, as well as modern, handmade furniture. And do take a few minutes to sit under the trees in the gallery’s sculpture garden and gaze at the spectacular vista. Móntez Gallery, located in an historic pink church, is known for masterpieces of Spanish Colonial art. Leaving Hand Artes and Móntez, double back to the 76/75 intersection. Turn north onto 76 to resume your High Road excursion. Almost immediately, you’ll see the High Road MarketPlace. Founded and run by local artisans, the nonprofit community co-op gallery is stuffed with treasures—the crafts, jewelry, photography, and art of more than 100 local artists. 258

Leaving Truchas, the High Road leads into the Carson National Forest, which is dotted with a series of small villages. The first is Ojo Sarco. Here you’ll find Ojo Sarco Pottery, the studio and showroom of Kathy Riggs and Jake Willson. Their one-of-a-kind and functional high-glaze pottery brings customers back for return visits. Continue on, and as you pass through Las Trampas, stop to admire the magnificent Spanish Colonial church. Completed in 1780 and still in use, this national historic landmark is considered one of the state’s most beautiful structures from that era. From Las Trampas, you can drive through Chamisal, turn right onto N.M. 75 at the point where N.M. 76 ends, and continue through Peñasco on to Taos. Or, you may prefer to take a left onto 75 toward Dixon so that you can start down the other side of the loop. Either way, while in Peñasco, visit the Gaucho Blue Gallery, which features the work of three artists: Nick Beason’s monotype prints, Lise Poulsen’s wearable and decorative fiber art, and Jim Stoner’s whimsical, yet practical forged metal furniture. Dixon is tucked in the gentle foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, in the valley where the Rio Embudo joins the Rio Grande. Dixon, Rinconada, and Embudo are a triangle of small farming communities that are also arts communities. (Rinconada and Embudo flank the east side of the Rio Grande Gorge.) These tiny villages can easily be overlooked, and yet they are teeming with artists and artisans. Check out the weavings at Métier. Peruse Rift Gallery's stone carvings, benches, and fountains, as well as their sculpture, photography, paintings, and tea ware. A visit to these rural communities is interesting any time of year, but autumn is ideal. Early August into the fall is harvest time for the area’s countless apple orchards. Many farmers sell their apples, juice, and 259259


cider at stands along the highway. A highlight of the fall season is the annual Dixon Studio Tour. Held the first full weekend of November (November 5-6 this year), the event is now in its 30th year. It is the oldest continual art tour in New Mexico. It draws visitors from far and wide because not only are Dixon’s many galleries open that weekend, but artists also open their studios to the public. From pottery to painting, honey to herbs, sculpture to stoneware, photography to weaving‚ not to mention delicious food, homegrown and homemade products, and roving musicians‚ the Dixon Studio Tour is the perfect way to spend a leisurely fall day. Along with the Dixon Studio Tour, another highlight of the fall season is the High Road Art Tour in September. To see some O’Keeffe country after leaving Dixon, take N.M. 68 South, toward Santa Fe, detour slightly west on U.S. 84/285 and head towards Abiquiu. There, in a tranquil adobe compound next to the Georgia O’Keeffe home, you’ll find the Bosshard Gallery. Its newly renovated 5000-square foot showroom and warehouse showcases a vast selection of high-quality Southeast Asian and Pacific items. While in Abiquiu, you may also want to stop by the Doug Coffin Studio to see his much-admired totems, his latest series of paintings, and his custommade jewelry. Dine at the acclaimed Rancho de San Juan Inn’s Three Forks restaurant, and you can enjoy more of Coffin’s work as you enjoy their cuisine. Chef and co-owner John Johnson creates memorable gourmet dining with à la carte dinner menu options that change weekly. You can dine in the art-filled dining rooms or, weather permitting, on the scenic portals. Whether dining or spending the night at this luxurious country inn—which is highly recommended—call ahead and arrange to tour the McDaniel Collection in the Haciendas at Rancho de San Juan. Since its inception, the McDaniel Collection has showcased the work of exceptional, collectible artists. It’s finally time to wind down, so consider a relaxing massage or revitalizing soak. A few miles ahead in the village of Ojo Caliente is Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa. The steaming springs are said to have curative powers, and have drawn people for hundreds‚ and perhaps thousands‚ of years.

High Road Images: Page 243, a view toward the Rio Grande Valley from a bend in Highway 76; page 254, a sunset lights up the Truchas Peaks; above, a cemetery along the High Road. All photos by Richard Hasbrouck whose work is shown at High Road MarketPlace.

Blue skies, wildflowers, endless vistas. Arid lowlands, mountains, mesas, deserts, and rock outcroppings. National forests, streams, verdant fields, and orchards. Historic villages, adobes, and churches. Traditional and contemporary weavers, carvers, artists, and artisans. Northern New Mexican cuisine. The High and Low Roads have it all, and if you’re like most people, your first trip on them will be the first of many. 


O viedo CARVINGS AND BRONZE HC 64 Box 23A 561 State Road 76 Chimayo, NM 87522 505.351.2280

Traditional woodcarving and unique southwestern and contemporary bronze sculpture by Marco A. Oviedo

The Sky is the Limit Bronze-pigmented patina 5”w x 3”d X 28”h plus base 262


high road and low road a dv e rti s e r m a p k ey

1 Anna Karin & Bill G Loyd Studios and Gallery p. 265 2 Bosshard p. 237 3 Buffalo Thunder Resort pp. 2,20 4 Cardona-Hine Gallery p. 271 5 Centinela Traditional Arts p. 263 6 Chimayo Trading & Mercantile p. 260 7 David Dear p. 143 8 Douglas Coffin p. 255 9 Gabriel’s p. 167 10 Gaucho Blue p. 269 11 Hand Artes Gallery and Sculpture Garden p. 268 12 High Road Marketplace p. 272 13 Jeane George Weigel Studio p. 270 14 Judith Hert Studio & Iola Gallery p. 267 15 The McDaniel Collection 16 Métier Handweaving Studio p. 256 17 Móntez Gallery p. 274 18 Nambe Drugs/Signature Consult p. 196 19 Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa p. 186 20 Ojo Sarco Pottery & Fine Crafts p. 275 21 Ortega’s Weaving Shop p. 258 22 Oviedo Carvings & Bronze p. 262 23 Rancho de Chimayó Restaurante p. 164 24 Rancho de San Juan 25 Rift Gallery p. 257 26 Sally Delap-John p. 273 27 Storyteller Theatres p. 259 A Black Mesa Golf Club B Towa Golf Club



Centinela Traditional Arts Oviedo Carvings & Bronze Castillo Gallery Bill Loyd & Anna Karin Studios The Cordova Hand Weaving Workshop Judith Hert Studio Cardona-Hine Gallery Jeane George Weigel Studio Hand Artes Gallery Ojo Sarco Pottery


Maroon Stripe acrylic on canvas 36” x 48” 2011

Judith Hert Iola Gallery & Open Studio #74 County RD 75 • Truchas, NM • 505.689.2104 • by appointment or chance 267

On the High Road to Taos

Daylight to Sunset Or by Appointment (Nov. – Feb. by Appointment Only) P.O. Box 417 • Truchas, NM 87578 Phone / Fax 505 689-2443 Toll-Free 800 689-2441

LARRY & NANCY BUECHLEY “Wave Rocker” Cherry



Nick Beason

Jim Stoner

Nick Beason

Lise Poulsen

forged metal furniture & sculpture, monotype prints, wearable and decorative fiber art open Thurs-Mon 10-5 Memorial Day through October • in winter by appointment 14148 State Road 75, Peñasco, NM 87553 • 575-587-1076 •


Jeane GeorGe WeiGel studio With a vieW - open By appointment 103B County Road 75 • Truchas, NM • 505-689-2659 • • 270

Represented by Hand Artes Gallery, Truchas, NM Sharing a gallery with Anna Karin, Truchas, NM

alvaro cardona-hine

“Homage to California”

48 x 76 inches

Acrylic on Canvas

cardona-hine Gallery 82 Route 75 – Truchas, New Mexico 505.689.2253 –



High Road MarketPlace A RT I S T ’ S C O - O P G A L L E RY Traditional & Contemporary Arts and Crafts by Northern New Mexico Artists

Hours 10-5 Winter hours 10-4 Phone: 866-343-5381 or 505-689-2689 P.O. Box 469, State Route 76 , Truchas, NM 87578 Email: Web: 272

Sally Delap-John

Truchas - Long View oil 11 x 14�

Open Studio 87 County Rd 75 - Truchas NM 505.689.2636 - 273

Masterpieces of Spanish Colonial Art 132 county road 75 po box 408 truchas, nm 87578 505·982·1828 or 505·689·1082

Grace maría Garcia dobson Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe natural pigments on pine 12" x 8"


Pit-fired Bowl by Kathy Riggs

Oil Painting by Randall David Tipton

Oil Painting by Cindy Stapper

Altered Porcelain Bowl by Kathy Riggs

• • • • •

c l ay pa i n t i n g s glass j e w e l ry wood

Open daily 10–5 May – December check website for winter hours

On state highway 76, “the high road to Taos” 505-689-2354



T h e A l lure o f

by Elise Waters Olonia

Every vacation begins with a desire: to savor a different culture and cuisine, escape from the day-to-day routine, exult in the outdoors, relax and unwind, sightsee, or perhaps just shop. Regardless of your motivation, if your destination is Taos, you can expect to come away fulfilled. In our mountain village, you can hike into the canyon wilderness, feel your heart quicken at the sound of singers’ resonating voices at a sacred Pueblo dance, shop for unique fashions and jewelry, peruse paintings by celebrated Taos and internationally renowned artists, visit historic sites, and learn about our colorful past from our museums. In the fall, mornings are likely to be crisp, and the landscape studded with richly colored scrub oaks and shimmering aspens. Fragrant piñón wafts from adobe fireplaces at one of the world’s most significant historical cultural landmarks, Taos Pueblo. More than a thousand years ago, this Tiwa speaking village was completely self-sustaining. It remains so today, with Red Willow Farm cultivating indigenous foods year round. In late September, the memorable Feast of San Geronimo celebrates the close of the harvest season.


rt and history buffs should consider visiting one of more of the five museums of the Museum Association of Taos: the Taos Art Museum, Blumenschein Home and Museum, Harwood Art Museum, La Hacienda de los Martinez, and the Millicent Rogers Museum. These treasure troves preserve the history, art and culture of Taos and northern New Mexico. Housed in historical buildings, they display exceptional art and artifacts from regional pueblos, Hispanic traditional craftsmen, and contemporary artists. Central to community life are our plazas, gathering places for fiestas, music, and lively conversation. Ranchos de Taos Plaza, one of the oldest historical plazas, is located four miles southwest of Taos. It preserves the heritage of early New Mexico and is the site of the late 18th-century, adobe San Francisco de Asís Mission Church. This commanding architectural presence draws acclaimed artists and photographers from around the world. Each year church members refinish its tamped earth buttresses by using a time-honored technique to apply new mud plaster. With a bit of instruction, you can join in the process and become a part of the church’s history. Across the plaza from the church is Chimayo Trading Del Norte, a family-owned and operated store. It features select pottery, jewelry and artifacts from Santa Clara and San Ildefonso Pueblos. Their 2011 events calendar includes demonstrations by the skilled potters of Mata Ortiz, Mexico, and a Navajo Weavers Show. The latter occurs during the first week of October, to coordinate with the timing of the annual Taos Wool Festival. Taos is filled with people who came to visit...and stayed. More than four decades ago, Ray Trotter, an iconic art broker and important educator in our community, felt Taos’s powerful pull. Initially captivated by the sight of local Native Americans in traditional blankets in the downtown Plaza, he quickly became enthralled by their rich culture, as well. Today, the expertise of this longtime art broker encompasses vintage Navajo weavings, saddle blankets, Native Indian paintings, Pueblo pottery, and more. Like Trotter, hotelier Jean Mayer found Taos irresistible. Mayer, the founder and owner of Hotel St. Bernard in Taos Ski Valley, is also Technical Director of the Taos Ski School. He reminisces, “What drew me to this country, the South276

west and Taos specifically, were the cowboys and Indians and the skiing.” That was more than 50 years ago, when legendary ski pioneer Ernie Blake invited him to come from France to help him transform part of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains’ steep terrain into a first-class skiing venue: the Taos Ski Valley. For decades Mayer’s hotel, situated at the base of the first lift, has drawn repeat guests. They come for the hotel’s traditional European alpine ambience, topnotch international cuisine, breathtaking vistas, and proximity to the slopes. The hotel is the also site of the 2011 Fechin Art Workshop (May) and the Taos School of Music (summer). Taos Ski Valley, 19 miles northeast of Taos, is committed to preserving the environment for all who live there. Green initiatives include a partnership with Renewable Choice Electricity. Ten-year plans are being made to add new lifts and glades. According to Adriana Blake, marketing manager, “the mountain upgrades will serve to enhance the mountain experience, but will not change its basic, homey feel or the outstanding level of service offered in Ernie’s tradition.”


aos’s allure is understandable just on the basis of the spectacular mountains that surround it. Moreover, clearly marked trails off the main road to the Ski Valley await those who want to go exploring. Bicycling enthusiasts are also in luck. Try road biking up the winding highway to the Ski Village or maneuvering a mountain bike through a narrow glade. Exhilarating! The scent of sage floats in the air. Often, on warm late afternoons, the sunfilled sky drapes an arc of color over Taos Mountain. Sunlight glints off adobe. These sensory delights are one reason you’ll spot easels dappling the roads and fields: local artists are eager to capture the essence of Taos in preparation for spring and fall arts celebrations. During those celebrations, business owners showcase quality art, products and services. Venture into galleries and businesses housed in historical buildings, and locals are likely to treat you to colorful stories. An authentic place to hear these stories is The Historic Taos Inn. Attend one of its many 75th-anniversary celebratory events in the year ahead and share in some great food, spirits (perhaps both kinds!), and art. A silhouetted horse and rider are frequently seen en route to and from the town’s central Plaza. Locals know it’s Ed Sandoval going to or coming from his Studio des Colores. He embodies Taos past and present in his lifestyle and artistic imagery. Looking up from his easel, he says, “Color makes the heart beat faster.” And he explains that El Viejito, the old man found in many of his colorful paintings, represents the universal town character, emblematic of ancient wisdom and knowledge. 

Taos offers amazing natural and architectural beauty. Top to bottom: wide open skies, Ranchos de Taos church at sunset, and a mountain vista. All photos by Jeff Caven

To find out more about Elise Waters Olonia, see Essential Classes on page 182. 277

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O r T E N S T O N E D E L AT T R E F I N E A R T

Contemporary Paintings and Prints by Nancy Ortenstone Pierre Delattre and Carla O’Neal

Nancy Ortenstone “Cracking through To Spring” 66x52 Acrylic/Canvas

115 Bent Street Taos, New Mexico 87571 575.737.0799 Pierre Delattre “Tangled Up In Love” 48x36 Acrylic/Canvas


2011 Essential Taos Events Taos Spring Arts Celebration (May 1–31) Taos celebrates all the arts that have made it a famous destination: museum exhibitions, gallery openings, musical events, stage performances and dining delights. Northern NM Hunting & Fishing Expo (May 13–14) Head to Red River for this exciting new event, a great his-andher weekend that includes a fishing derby, demonstrations, exhibitors, retailers, outfitters, a wild game cook-off and more. Taos Plaza Live! (May 26–Sept 8) Free music events 6-8 p.m. every Thursday evening during the summer, on Taos Plaza. Performances showcase local musicians and many genres of music. River & Brews Blues Fest (June 10–11) At the River and Blues Fest, take a trip back to when BB King and Muddy Waters were just reaching the heights of their internationally successful music careers. Enjoy New Mexico’s finest microbreweries, finger-lickin’ good barbecue, and fantastic musical entertainment! Taos Solar Music Festival (June 25–26) Using the universal language of music and art, this festival showcases renewable energy. Taos Pueblo Pow-Wow (July 8–10) This famous annual pow-wow, features American Indian dances, arts, crafts, food and music. Taos Pueblo inhabitants dance, sing, and share the beauty of their ancestral home. Full Moon Hike (July 15) Enjoy a guided 2.5 mile hiking tour to Williams Lake. Fiestas de Taos (July 22–24) A Feast Day celebration of Taos patron saints, Santiago and Sant Ana, with food, live music, vendors, parades, dancers and more, all on the historic Taos Plaza. Taos Garden & Home Tour (Aug 6) Tour some of Taos' most beautiful gardens and homes. Sponsored by Los Jardineros, the Garden Club of Taos. 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Toast of Taos Arts & Wine Festival (Aug 17–21) Enjoy winemaker dinners, the Art & Wine Stroll, and the Grand Tasting at the Taos Convention Center. Salon des Arts (Aug 20–21) A two day event celebrating the gathering of nationally renowned visual and performing artists. Music from Angel Fire (Aug 19–Sept 4) Celebrating 28 years! World-renowned artists perform an impressive array of works from the great classical, Romantic, Baroque and contemporary masters. A Russian Night in Taos (Aug 27) The Taos Art Museum and Fechin House host the 7th annual black-tie and boots gala. Get ready for an unforgettable evening that includes an elegant dinner, live auction, silent auction, dancing and art. Taos Fall Arts Festival (Sept 23–Oct 21) Celebrating 35 years of fine arts! Open daily, 10-5, featuring three prestigious shows: Taos Invites Taos, Taos Open, and a special exhibition: The Taos Living Masters Invitational. Taos Mountain Balloon Rally (Oct 28–30) Mass hot-air balloon ascensions, a parade, picnic, and balloomenshine (hot air balloon glow at dusk). 280

Christmas Eve Procession (Dec 24) The Procession of the Virgin is a pageant of beauty, heritage and awe-inspiring imagery. Held at Taos Pueblo, it begins at sundown. Taos Pueblo Deer or Matachines Dance (Dec 25) These traditional Christmas Day dances alternate every other year. Dances begin at 2 p.m. No cameras or cell phones allowed. New Year's Eve Celebration (Dec 31) Start your New Year's Eve celebration with the torchlight parade and fireworks display beginning at 6 p.m., followed by festivities held throughout the valley. For more event information, visit î Ş ta o s a d v e rt i s e r m a p k e y 1 Act 1 Gallery & Sculpture Garden p. 285 2 & 3 Andean Software p. 142 4 Blue Fish Clothing p. 151 5 Chimayo Trading Del Norte p. 282 6 The Cydney Taylor Gallery p. 283 7 Frank Seckler p. 238 8 Grand Bohemian Gallery at El Monte Sagrado p. 278 9 Graystone Furniture & The Sofa Gallery p. 239 10 The Historic Taos Inn p. 287 11 Kokopelli Property Management p. 19 12 Mesa’s Edge p. 284 13 Ortenstone Delattre Fine Art p. 279 14 St. Bernard Hotel and Condominiums pp. 168 & 293 15 Storyteller Theatres p. 259 16 Substance p. 125 17 Walden Fine Art p. 288 & Back Cover Anthony Abbate pp. 96-97 & Back Cover A B C D E

E.L. Blumenschein Home & Museum p. 289 The Harwood Museum of Art p. 289 La Hacienda de Los Martinez p. 289 Millicent Rogers Museum p. 289 Taos Art Museum and Fechin House p. 289 Taos Country Club 281


The Cydney Taylor Gallery Contemporary Paintings & Etchings

tel: 575-751-0398 e-mail:

1099B Witt Rd., Taos, NM 87571 From Witt Rd, turn down San Geronimo Lane, past the San Geronimo entrance on the left. The next building is the Cydney Taylor Gallery.

Painting A2, oil on canvas, 84” x 28”

Monotype #4, 24” x 18”

Hours: June–November 1–4pm Tuesday–Saturday or by appointment


Since 1989, Mesa’s Edge has represented Award-Winning Taos Jewelers and American Indian Artists from the local and regional area. Many are Masters and award winners as well as being instructors nationally and internationally. We also carry vintage Navajo and Zuni jewelry circa 1900s-1960s. The three locations also offer Pueblo pottery, fetishes, weavings, kachinas, and sculpture. Our newest gallery, pictured below, is conveniently located on the Taos Plaza. Photo: Alain S. Pinto, Cold Smoke Photography

M esa’s e dge

Open daily 9:30-6 107-A North Plaza, Taos NM 87571 (575) 758-3455 122-C Kit Carson Rd. Taos NM 87571 (575) 758-3500 Open Daily 9-5:30 During Ski Season Taos Ski Valley Resort Center Taos Ski Valley, NM 87525 (575) 776-2316


Peggy McGivern

Stephen C. Datz

On Horseback Oil 24” x 24”

El Salto After the Storm Oil 16” x 20”

Doug Candelaria Desert Oasis Oil 11” x 14”

Sunday Morning Acrylic 8” x 8”

Joyce Hamil

GALLERY & SCULPTURE GARDEN 218 Paseo del Pueblo Norte • Taos, NM 87571 • 877-228-1278 • 285

GerAint smith GerAint smith

pAuLA vALentine

Lenny Foster

GAk stonn

Be Transformed by the Land, Light and Legend of Taos

GerAint smith

Taos Light is like nowhere else. Particularly when dawn breaks or at sunset, a special “artist light� illuminates the land, awakening the spirit. The crisp mountain air breathes life into a community of creators, thinkers and innovators. Taos is home to contemporary artists of all types and ones that practice age-old traditions.

Discover it for yourself at 286

A Taos Treasure of Historic Proportions

125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte | Taos, New Mexico 87571 866 887-5160 |

in Taos, New Mexico

The Adobe Bar • Doc Martin’s Restaurant 287 Premier Live Entertainment

J im K effer

L anCe G reen

Roadrunner Ghost acrylic on canvas

a nthony a bbate Church in Painted Hills acrylic on canvas

S heena C ameron

Raven as Horse Whisperer ceramic and mixed media

Edible Cactus Series, “Avocado” archival pigments on paper


125 Kit Carson Rd Taos, New Mexico (575) 758-4575 •

Buy a $25 COMBINATION ADMISSION TICKET good at all five museums, valid for a full year. Available at all museums and at the Taos Visitor Center.




222 Ledoux Street ~ 575-758-0505 ´ LA HACIENDA DE LOS MARTINEZ

708 Hacienda Road, off Ranchitos Road ~ 575-758-1000 THE HARWOOD MUSEUM OF ART UNIVERSITY OF NEW MEXICO

238 Ledoux Street ~ 575-758-9826 MILLICENT ROGERS MUSEUM

1504 Millicent Rogers Road ~ 575-758-2462 TAOS ART MUSEUM AND FECHIN HOUSE

227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte ~ 575-758-2690

Museum Association ofTaos N E W M E X I C O Navajo Germantown textile, Eyedazzler, 1895, courtesy of Millicent Rogers Museum, 1956-1-47.


Jewel Mark


“Being in the jewelry business is like stepping into a magical world of beauty, passion and lasting relationships. The history, lore, and power of jewelry keep us captivated. However, it is our amazing customers sharing their most intimate milestones that inspire our jewelry journey.” So declare Michael and Rita Linder, owners of Jewel Mark, a Santa Fe institution for four decades that is now happily ensconced in a beautiful, new setting at 233 Canyon Road. They relate a fortuitous experience that happened while dining at the Compound a few years ago. Their party included the Jewel Mark staff and a watch company representative. Intrigued by the fun and laughter at the table, native New Mexican George Maloof asked if he could join them. The Linders report, “Of course we said yes. George dined and drank with us, and ended up purchasing four watches that night!”

With regard to Jewel Mark’s future, the Linders aspire to maintaining their wonderful relationships with their clients and to continuing to supply gorgeous, innovative jewelry. In their words, “We would like to keep our warmth glowing as we settle into our new location by offering our clients a family-like atmosphere. Our store is in a beautiful home our landlord grew up in. This really ties into our sense of who we are and how we would like our customers to feel. We want them to experience a deep sense of family where trust, integrity and our passion always thrive.” With a philosophy such as that, the Linders can count on having their dream fulfilled: “clients coming back to old Santa Fe—the Santa Fe you remember from when you grew up—on Canyon Road, where familiarity meets beauty.”

The multi-generational Linder family and Jewel Mark staff 290

the essential guide silver anniversary 1988 – 2013

In 2013 The Essential Guide will turn 25 years old! The Essential Guide is the oldest continuously locally-owned publication in Northern New Mexico. To celebrate our impending 25th, we have chosen to recognize and honor clients who have been in business as long or longer than we have. In this publication and the next two, it will be our pleasure to shine the spotlight on those who have persevered, prospered and contributed to our communities for more than 25 years. Here's to the next 25 years for them and The Essential Guide!


Alpine Sports


The setting is Garmisch, in the Bavarian Alps, more than half a century ago. At a Faschings Ball (carnival), US Army ski patroller Harvey Chalker meets Reserl, a local girl with a passion for skiing. They are introduced by Jean Mayer, who is the head of the ski patrol. Fast forward: a romance between Harvey and Reserl leads to marriage; they and Mayer, all superb skiers, end up in Northern New Mexico. A lucky twist of fate for Northern New Mexico! Mayer is the founder and owner of Hotel St. Bernard in the Taos Ski Valley, and the Chalkers own Alpine Sports in Santa Fe.

The Chalkers note that “during the first few years we talked of the need for a specialty ski store for Santa Fe.” In 1964, after a few years of planning, they opened a store in the log cabin next to Totemoff’s Bar at Santa Fe Ski Basin. A couple of years later they moved their store to Marcy Street in Santa Fe. As their business grew, it became apparent they needed a larger space to meet the demands of the growing specialty ski store. In 1971, the Chalkers moved Alpine Sports to 121 Sandoval Street, where it

remains today. Their daughter, Amaya, was born on the day of store’s grand opening, making the day doubly memorable. Over the years, Alpine Sports has received awards from Ski Magazine and Ski Business magazine, including “Top Ski Shop in the Rocky Mountains” and one of the 40 best stores in North America. This is not surprising: the Chalkers continually convey their love for the mountains, snow and skiing to their clientele. They search out and test the newest products to make the sport of skiing as exciting for their customers as it is for them.

With the development of new materials and the world-class grooming of the Ski Santa Fe and Taos ski slopes, the Chalkers feel very confident about the future of the sport of skiing. They feel equally confident about Alpine Sports, which not only specializes in skiing in the winter, but also hiking and summer mountain sports in the summertime.

Owners Reserl and Harvey Chalker inside their Alpine Sports store 292

Hotel St. Bernard


Hotel St. Bernard founder and owner Jean Mayer relates, “While in college in Nice, France, I created a project that was the beginning of a dream: the design of an alpine ski lodge in the mountains. After coming to the United States, I enlisted in the Army in the 10th Mountain Division and was stationed in Garmisch, Germany. As head of the ski patrol, I met Harvey Chalker, who was a part of this team. We decided to come to the same region in the United States at the completion of our term. Harvey established the first Alpine Ski Shop in Santa Fe, while I went to Taos Ski Valley as the technical director of the ski school.”

In 1960 Mayer began building the Hotel St. Bernard. His cites as his inspiration “the quality of the snow, the extreme challenge of the mountain, the opportunity to shape the ski school (which remains the top in the country), and being on the edge of technical advancement.” He notes it’s taken 40 years to create what the

hotel is known for today, and points out, “the architecture reveals how it grew out of necessity, reflecting a strong alpine style with local influence. It includes original tables from La Fonda, handcarved Padre Martinez chairs, and a central copper fireplace designed by Malcolm Brown and me.” Mayer proudly describes his hotel as “focused on family, which consists of the staff and management, as well as guests who have been coming for three or four generations, having created a tradition of being together for a ski week.” One of the hotel’s delights is that its communal tables feature both an abundance of creative, inspired food and lively conversation. In Mayer’s words, the Hotel St. Bernard is “a place where people are introduced to beauty and the aesthetic sense of the mountain lifestyle.”

Jean Mayer soaking up some winter sun in front of his hotel (photo by Peter Lamont) 293

Waxlander Gallery


Phyllis Kapp opened Waxlander Gallery 27 years ago, motivated by her longstanding desire “to be a part of helping artists, including myself, live our dreams.” She adds, “Having a gallery has given me the pleasure of doing this.” In recalling the early days, she relates this heartwarming story: “When I was starting out in 1984, I was a new, struggling, one-room gallery. One day a dear friend, whom I had met at Ox-Bow Summer School of Art, came to visit me in Santa Fe. Over tea we discussed my struggle, and she offered to pay my rent for two years. That no-stringsattached assistance opened the door for me to succeed and to help other artists in the years to come. I will never forget the generosity of this wonderful woman.”

Kapp has paid it forward. Artist Marshall Noice tells about the first time he walked into Waxlander Gallery and met Phyllis Kapp. Hoping to be represented by her gallery, he showed her paintings he had brought. She saw great potential and accepted him that day. She told

him, “I love to help make dreams come true for artists.” Noice said he’s never forgotten those words, and over the years, she’s lived them. When he was at a crossroads in his career, she reviewed his work and gave him suggestions. Sometimes he would call just to discuss the direction his work was taking him. Noice said, “Phyllis surely made my dreams come true, not only when she brought me into her gallery, but during the last 15 years, during which she became not only a mentor, but a dear friend.” Kapp has mentored not only Noice, but also other nationally known artists. Kapp wrote, “Recently, I celebrated my 80th birthday, and was surrounded by loving people that I consider my family.” Looking toward the future, Kapp is dedicated to continuing “to remind people how wonderful life is by sharing the beauty that art creates.” Her heartfelt optimism is captured in her comment, “Twenty-seven years ago, when I started the gallery, I never dreamt that Waxlander Gallery would be where it is today, so who knows what great gifts the future will bring.”

Phyllis Kapp 294

Carole LaRoche Gallery


Carole LaRoche has been showing her work on Canyon Road for 27 years. She has played an important role in making Canyon Road the charming art mecca that it is today. She has been an artist her entire life, but waited to pursue painting full time until her three children were grown and on their own. When she came upon a magazine with artwork from Santa Fe, the images captivated her imagination: she knew she’d found her calling. On first visiting Santa Fe from Boston in 1983, she found the wide, desert vistas and freedom of expression extremely alluring. She was certain this would be her new home, and she’s been here ever since. She found a small casita, put up her easel, and helped form an artist colony on Gypsy Alley and Canyon Road. This was back when the neighborhood was still mostly residential, long before it became the gallery row that it is now.

fashion designer Ralph Lauren. He was enthralled with her work and acquired three original paintings on the spot. At that moment, she knew everything was going to work out, and it did. Collectors from all over the world walk through her gallery every day, many on repeat visits, dropping by to see her latest work. Carole still paints daily, incorporating the artistic mythology she has created of vivid animals and shaman faces. Her concern for threatened animals and other environmental dangers pushes her to get the message out. After nearly three decades at her vocation, Carole is sometimes asked if she plans to slow down. Her reply? “Why would I? I’m doing what I love! And it still makes people happy.” Her visitors and clients would agree.

Her most memorable moment during those early years was coming into her gallery one day and finding

"Two Red Wolves" painting by Carole LaRoche 295

Cafe Pasqual's


“See that restaurant across the street?” Doodlet’s founder and owner Theo Raven asked, indicating a nondescript submarine sandwich shop. “Go buy it!” That was 1978, and she was speaking to Santa Fe newcomer Katharine Kagel, whose background was in catering. Kagel did just that. A year later she opened Cafe Pasqual’s, a restaurant known for fresh, seasonal, organic cuisine that draws on the flavors of New Mexico, Mexico, the Mediterranean, and Asia.

Kagel offers the origin of Pasqual’s red chile chocolate cheesecake as proof that, in her words, “Accidents are the mother of invention in the restaurant world.” She recounts going into the walk-in refrigerator to retrieve a chocolate cheesecake she had baked. “I looked high and low. Low turned out to be a good idea,” she quips, “because the cheesecake had fallen into a 5-gallon bucket of red chile sauce.” Not missing a beat, she fished it out. She “rinsed off the chile sauce under a steam of cold water, served up a slice, and told the waiter to reframe the description: we’re serving red chile chocolate cheesecake now.”

Kagel takes pleasure in showing and supporting the work of artists in Cafe Pasqual’s Gallery (on the second floor), especially those who make micaceous clay pottery: Felipe Ortega, Brian Grossnickle, and Lorenzo Mendez. Kagel also strives to educate patrons about the virtues of cooking with this versatile, handmade Jicarilla Apache and Pueblo people’s cookware. As to the future of Cafe Pasqual’s, Kagel says it is “to continue to serve our patrons entirely organic and sustainable menu offerings, and to maintain an entire wine list of organic/sustainable bottles from around the world.” Moreover, she is steadfast in “supporting our local farmers and honoring our purveyors who work so hard with their hands and hearts to bring us the best from Mother Nature.” Cafe Pasqual’s patrons feel that same appreciation and devotion to this local institution and its founder.

"Horizon of Games" by Leovigildo Martinez, from Cafe Psaqual's Gallery 296



“For 56 years, Doodlet’s has been beloved by all who enter as a magical place filled with fun, whimsy, creativity and the unexpected. I know it first cast its charming spell on me when I was a 10 year-old little girl, and it never let go. In June, 2010, I was happily picked to become the new owner!” That’s how Doodlet’s proprietor, Lisa Young, describes her almost lifelong love affair with this captivating shop. In choosing her successor, Doodlet’s founder, Santa Fe icon and Living Treasure Theo Raven, was undoubtedly swayed by Young’s pervasive and enduring passion for the store. Young says Raven regaled her with many interesting recollections, including one involving the late retail magnate, Stanley Marcus. While visiting the store, he fell in love with the revolving miniature Christmas trees that Theo and her mother made, and he ordered them for Neiman-Marcus. Additional stores then ordered the trees, as well as other items. Doodlet’s, which began as Doodlet’s Christmas Store

(“Doodlet” was Raven’s childhood nickname), was on its way! Young said it’s not uncommon for couples who originally met at the shop to stop in Doodlet’s on their wedding anniversary. Moreover, a recent out-of-town customer asked if she might have her wedding in Doodlet’s. Young explains, “She said she couldn’t imagine anything more fun than being surrounded by so many imaginative things!” Young’s vision of a perfect future “would be if all who live in or visit Santa Fe knew of and loved Doodlet’s the way that I do. All of us at Doodlet’s are honored to carry on its tradition as ‘the heart of Santa Fe.’” She pledges they will “work hard to share Doodlet’s with others near and far through a website, blog and ultimately an online store!”

A whimsical historic image from in front of Doodlet's at 120 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe 297



Chip and Leslie Livingstons’ inspiration for opening ACC came from a desire to bring beautiful antiques and reproductions to a market that values beauty and history. And that’s exactly what they’ve been doing for the last 25 years. In fact, in January, 2011, ACC was recognized as the Best Furniture Store in the Midwest and Southwest regions of the United States at the 22nd annual ARTS awards in Dallas, Texas. Reminiscing, the Livingstons recount “a sweet sales tale”: “We had a pair of chairs on our floor, generous easy chairs with an ottoman between them. We sold the first to a lovely young lady furnishing her first home in Santa Fe. We sold the second to a young man who had been a regular customer for some time. They both coincidentally returned on the same day to purchase the ottoman–and ended up joining chairs, households, and lives–and sharing the ottoman!”

Whether clients’ taste tends towards traditional, contemporary, or is in transition, ACC’s professional design staff offers complimentary comprehensive service. The staff is always thrilled when satisfied clients say, “this feels exactly like me, but I didn’t know how to get there.” To better serve their clients the Livingstons opened Night & Day by ACC a few years ago. This new store showcases their bedding and bedroom design. Looking ahead, the Livingstons say, “Our vision for the future of our business is to keep the flame of high-quality home furnishings alive here in New Mexico, to provide a place where people can come to actually touch and feel the things they will bring into their homes, and to keep the idea of human connection in home-related transactions alive!”

Leslie Livingston at the ACC showroom 298

Kitchens by Jeanné


“I have been in business since 1981—30 years. Yikes!” declares Jeanné Sei, owner of Kitchens by Jeanné. She explains how her business came about: “After working in my profession with a large corporation for 8½ years, I decided I wanted to start my own business. I wanted to share the knowledge I had gained in food and kitchen design, and I loved working with the public.” There were challenges from the beginning. Sei writes, “I will never forget my first attempt at starting in the business world on my own. I had gone to a local bank to discuss obtaining a small business loan. The banker—and, yes, I still remember him—laughed at my idea of a kitchen design business, said I could never make a living doing this, and said no to the request. Boy, did I become even more steadfast in my goal! Never had I been so determined and inspired as I was after I left that bank!” Her determination was tested, but ultimately paid off. Sei acknowledges, “As with any new business, mine was

slow in taking off. With my home economics education background and knowledge of food and cooking from my previous profession, I began teaching New Mexican cooking and opening up New Mexican food restaurants from San Diego to Charleston.” Her sense of humor comes through when she describes consulting with a South Dakota restaurant serving its version of “New Mexican” food: “I was called to re-work their menu. What fun! And when I was introduced to their version of salsa, oh my! One gallonsized jug of cherry peppers—juice, stems, seeds and all—and one gallon of ketchup, poured into a commercial blender, pureed, and then served in plastic squirt bottles with chips.” She changed their menu dramatically! Sei describes her vision for her business as being “to continue creating great kitchen spaces that are enjoyable for people to be in and a great place to cook.” Perhaps still remembering that first banker, she adds, “I’ll be around for a long while!”

A beautiful modern kitchen using Hallmark Cabinets 299

Packard's on the Plaza


Packard’s on the Plaza, in the heart of Santa Fe at the end of the Old Santa Fe Trail, has a venerable, 90-year history. Founded by Frank and Marie Packard, the business was inherited by son Al in the 1950s. He quickly became one of the country’s most trusted traders of authentic Indian arts and crafts. In 1959 he chaired the organization that became today’s SWAIA, Southwestern Association for Indian Arts. He helped reshape the Fiesta Indian Market into the present-day Indian Market, the world’s premiere marketplace for Native American art. He was also instrumental in legislation to protect Native American artists and buyers of Southwestern Indian arts and crafts.

it be all right if I came in and looked around?” Al reported the idea struck him as a novel one, and after that, Packard’s began selling to the public.

Packard once explained how it happened that Packard’s Indian Trading Company opened its doors to the public. It was a typical day at the trading post: lights off and door locked, he was playing cards with a Navajo friend, and trading silver and turquoise with Native Americans. A lady knocked on the door and peered in to see if anyone was available. “Excuse me,” she called out, “would

More than two decades later, the Canons are justifiably proud of Packard’s unique collection of international and Native American art that includes jewelry, handmade pottery, Mexican tableware, Hopi Katsina doll carvings, Navaho weavings and oriental weavings from other countries.

In 1979, Al sold Packard’s to Carolyn and Richard Canon. He was so impressed with the relationships they had forged with the Native American community, their deep knowledge of quality Native American and ethnic art, their commitment to dealing in authentic pieces, and their business ethics that the deal was consummated with a handshake. Packard’s had always been referred to as “The Trusted Source,” and he knew the Canons would continue that legacy.

The well-recognized hand-crafted Packard's logo signage 300

2011-2012 Essential Guide | Santa Fe and Taos, New Mexico  

The premier source for information about Santa Fe and Taos, New Mexico for tourists, visitors, and locals.