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Friday december 7, 2012 S AT I S F Y I N G
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ROLLING INTO A CELEBRATION Play with polka dots and stripes for a pretty swiss roll cake
FRIDAY 7, december 2012
THE MALAY MAIL
SWEET DOTS AND STRIPES SWISS ROLL Patterned swiss rolls are in vogue with the bakers who have been emblazoning their sweet creations with leopard prints, cute Hello Kitty and even Angry Bird pictures. Our approach is something simpler with just a play of pastel colours
for the dots and stripes. Stack the cut swiss rolls, playing with their patterns and you’ll find it makes an adorable cake that is easy to whip up. Fiddle around with the colour and flavour combinations until you find your perfect one.
butter cream filling 160g butter, softened 40g icing sugar, sifted 1 teaspoon vanilla essence
ingredients B 4 Grade A egg yolks 30ml vegetable oil 30ml UHT milk
ingredients A 100g caster sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt 4 Grade A egg whites
ingredients C 70g plain flour, sifted 1 teaspoon baking powder, sifted
½ teaspoon cream of tartar, sifted
Electric Green Americolour food colouring. Light Pink Americolour food colouring
Preheat oven to 190C. Grease a Swiss roll tin measuring 36cm x 25cm. Line with greaseproof paper. Cut another piece of greaseproof paper the same size. Chocolate Swiss Roll
To prepare butter cream: Using an electric beater, cream all the ingredients together until fluffy. Set aside.
In the Kitchen with Eu Hooi Khaw EDITORIAL NOTE by Lee Khang Yi
Today marks an important occasion for The Malay Mail with its 1 million copies. Momentous occasions call for celebratory cakes and our easy-to-assemble swiss roll cake is perfect for this. Not only does it look stunning, the swiss rolls are light and fluffy. Play around with your favourite flavours and you may just find the perfect cake for the occasion. In this issue, we also have regular columnist Eu Hooi Khaw sharing the health benefits of wolfberries or kei chee. For those who love to dine out, a must-try is the BIG group’s latest venture, Hit and Mrs. It’s been love at first sight for this intimate eatery with its inventive food. The upstairs bar area also makes a great hangout in Bangsar with a nostalgic kick. You’ll be channelling P. Ramlee and Saloma with the retro setting and songs. In the Food Bites section, we explore the bistro Mezze’s menu offerings. Tucked in Medan Damansara behind Victoria Station, this place whips up a menu of tapas eats, pies, pasta and decadent desserts. One is amazed at how everything is made from scratch by the French Chef Yves Renou down to their sauces. Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org. my for any feedback. Happy baking and bon appetit!
ADVERTISING SALES Rajan Gopal Senior Manager, Direct & Classifieds Direct line: 03 74951282 email@example.com
We have been always told as a child to eat up the kei chee, those little red berries floating in our soup or in steamed chicken as they are good for the eyes. Modern research has borne this out. Kei chee or wolfberries contain more betacarotene than carrots, as well as zeaxanthin and lutine which contribute to healthy eyes. As early as 1,000 AD, the Chinese were eating kei chee, also known as Lycium barbarum. They took them regularly for better eyesight, and their anti-ageing properties. Wolfberries are native to Inner Mongolia and it is said that the people there eat wolfberries daily, and they seldom suffer from arthritis, cancer or diabetes. Besides betacarotene, studies have revealed that wolfberries also contain 500 times more vitamin C than oranges, weight for weight, as well as vitamins B1, B2, B6, and E. According to the Beijing Nutrition Research Institute, which did a chemical analysis of wolfberries in 1988,
they also contain germanium, a rare anti-cancer agent almost never found in food. They are an eminent immune booster, nourishing not just the eyes, but also the liver, kidneys and blood, and help enhance memory too. Wolfberries have also been found to have extremely high levels of immune-stimulating polysaccharides. The most potent wolfberries are said to come from Tibet, Xinjiang and Ningxia provinces in China. In the West, kei chee is known as goji berries, which is marketed as a health product. The berries are sold as snacks, juices and even capsules. In daily cooking, you could also add kei chee to any double-boiled soups, braised chicken or other meats. You can also sprinkle the berries on fish before steaming. They are also good in sweet broths too, together with snow fungus, red dates, lotus seeds and magnolia petals (pak hup). Keep a bag of kei chee in your office drawer to munch or give them to your children to take to school as a snack. It sure beats eating junk food, and their eyes will be all the better for them too.
STEAMED CHICKEN WITH KEI CHEE 600g chicken thighs, skin removed and cut into pieces 1 tablespoon fresh ginger juice 1 1/2 tablespoons light soy sauce 1 tablespoon brandy (optional) 2 teaspoons sesame oil 1 teaspoon salt 3 dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked in water till soft and sliced 1 1/2 tablespoons kei chee
Combine all the ingredients together in a bowl, covered with cling film. Leave to marinate in a refrigerator for at least 3 hours. Remove from the refrigerator. Place the chicken with the marinade in a heatproof bowl. Steam over rapid boiling water for 45 minutes. Remove and serve with white rice.
To prepare batter: Using an electric mixer fitted with a balloon whisk attachment, whisk ingredients A till fluffy. Add in the sifted cream of tartar and continue to whisk until the egg whites reach stiff peaks. In a separate bowl, combine ingredients B together with a wire whisk, making sure the eggs are mixed properly and there are no small bits. Add ingredients C to the egg yolk mixture and mix to combine. Gently fold the egg yolk mixture into the beaten egg whites. Set aside 50g of batter and mix with Electric Green Americolour food colouring to get the light green colour. Mix the Light Pink Americolour food colouring with the balance of the batter to get the light pink colour. Fit a Wilton nozzle #11 with a piping bag and place the light
green coloured batter inside. Pipe the light green batter into dots onto the half of the lined tray. For other half, pipe lines diagonally. Bake for 2 minutes to allow the dots and lines to set. Remove the tray from oven, and pour the pink coloured batter over, making sure its level. Quickly return the tray into the oven and bake for further 10 minutes or until skewer inserted comes out clean. Remove from oven and leave to cool for 5 minutes before rolling up. To roll: Flip the cake onto another clean piece of greaseproof paper, cut into two. Roll the cake from the short side and leave to cool completely. Unroll the cake & spread buttercream filling over and roll up. Cut into pieces and place on top of each other to resemble a cake. – Recipe by Debbie Teoh. Photography by Kenneth Lim, Gray Studio.
Chocolate Swiss Roll
Follow the above recipe but leave 50g batter untouched, while the balance of the batter is mixed with chocolate emulco to the desired brown colour. Using the plain batter, pipe into dots on the paper and bake for 2 minutes till it sets. Pour the chocolate batter over the set dots and lines and bake. Roll and fill with buttercream like the Sweet Dots and Stripes Swiss Roll.
Taster Comments: The swiss rolls were easy to make and I would definitely want to bake it again. It also looks pretty stacked up.” Desiree Loke Student
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FRIDAY 7, december 2012
INDUSTRIAL CHIC FRONTAGE
HITTING US WITH ITS BEST SHOT WHEN word emerged that the BIG group (BIG) was coming up with a new restaurant concept, Hit and Mrs, everyone just assumed it will be another mall eatery. But this time, BIG’s head honcho Benjamin Yong threw the Kuala Lumpur diners a curve ball, opening his new place in a hidden corner in Bangsar. Where’s Lorong Kurau everyone asked as they scrambled for their GPS? Most people would not have even heard of this hidden spot nestled in suburbia, far away from the busy epicenter of Bangsar Village. Like BIG’s stable of eateries, it had us talking from its name already. Hit and Mrs plays on the words, hits and misses, the latter being every restaurateur’s nightmare for their eatery. It’s not a surprise since BIG does stand for Bright Ideas Group. Walk into the restaurant to discover industrial chic in the essence of architect Sek
“Hit and Mrs playS on the words, hits and misses, the latter being every restaurateur’s nightmare for their eatery.”
BEEF TENDERLOIN, BBQ GNOCCHI
CHICKEN TRUFFLONDAISE LAMB, BARLEY AND PEAS
THE MALAY MAIL
San. The group worked together with Farah Azizan from Sek San’s firm, who installed his signature look of raw cement, red bricks and tall thin trees in the restaurant. The dining space is compact, with seating for around 20 to 30 people. There’s a touch of vintage with the hanging antique perfume bottle-like lights. Across the tables is a view of the chefs’ on-goings in the open kitchen. The unfinished cement counter has room for diners to sit and enjoy the busy kitchen up close and personal. On the end of the eatery, a courtyard opens up to allow you al-fresco dining complete with recycled pipes as a water feature. Venture upstairs and discover the bar area all decked up in nostalgia. Obvious care has been taken to give the place, a distinct look with retro wooden furniture, old photographs and even cut glass brandy decanters. Tiny details matter in Hit and Mrs down to your table settings. We love the whole ensemble on our table, from the Muji wooden plates to the antique cutlery. Even your drinking glasses are Dutch artist Rob Brandt’s famous crinkled cups, a design classic. Old school coffee cups commonly found in the local kopitiam give our tea and coffee a retro look. Unlike BIG’s outlets that run on items from the central kitchen, Hit and Mrs is more private and intimate, as cooking
FOIE GRAS PARFAIT
is all done here. The approach here is experimental dining by young Chef Mashad Emran Iskandar Pino who cut his teeth in kitchens around Europe. The dinner menu is compact and divided into small, big and sweet plates. Prices range from RM25 to RM65 for the items. There is also an eight-course tasting menu for RM175 per person, where you choose six items from the menu and the chef surprises you with 2 items. The menu changes on market availability of items. In each plate, the chef plays culinary alchemist, as it is a clever play of flavours and textures that work like a symphony. Our meal kicks off with a refreshing amuse bouche of watermelon, goat cheese, basil with a hit of olive oil. Decadence then rolled in the form of Foie gras parfait (RM35), a creamy gelato with the taste of the buttery liver served on a slice of brioche and cranberry
“Tiny details matter in Hit and Mrs down to your table settings.” sauce. Next is a chilled Rock melon soup laced with port wine (RM35). The light refreshing soup with the fruits is enhanced with a touch of the sweet red wine. Chicken is often pushed aside for other meats. But don’t miss out the Chicken trufflondaise (RM55) with black quinoa. The juicy succulent chicken pieces are drizzled with a rich creamy hollandaise sauce topped with a piece of black truffle, which makes every bite to be relished. The grain fed beef tenderloin (RM65) is cooked to tender perfection, perhaps with the magic from the sous vide machine. The plating is interesting, as the beef is precut and scattered with cherry tomatoes, garlic slices. Joining the delicious plate is BBQ gnocchi, smooth potato dumplings with slightly charred edges that pairs well with the tender meat and the onion toffee sauce. In Chef Mashad’s hands, even the humble barley grain is polished to resemble delicious white pearls firm
to the bite. The al dente barley is a delightful contrast with soft melting brie cheese and mushroom slices, the surprise dish from the chef for the tasting menu. It was anointed with a soy based sauce that worked to give it a savoury yet light taste. Those pearls also popped up in our Lamb, barley and peas (RM55) main plate. The fork tender lamb cutlet worked well with the combination that resembled a light risotto minus any heavy starchiness. Think peanut butter jam sandwiches and you have a sophisticated version of pan-fried foie gras served with peanut crumbs and raspberry jam that has you licking your lips. One would be quick to strike off this tasting menu item as a childish invention but the proof is in the taste, and it works as we tuck into our second helping of the foie gras. Desserts or sweet plates are a play of textures, scattered around on the plate, beckoning you to dig in. The chilled lemon custard (RM25) is light and refreshing with the fresh raspberries,
“Think peanut butter jam sandwiches and you have a sophisticated version of pan-fried foie gras served with peanut crumbs and raspberry jam that has you licking your lips.” raspberry puree, tapioca pearls and crumble. The Peanut butter dessert (RM25) may not look the prettiest but it is definitely the tastiest, with all those yummy flavours of cold peanut butter ice cream, chocolate soil and the chocolate sauce mingling on the plate. It is early days yet but so far, a taste of Chef Mashad’s food has us hoping this place is here to stay and the kitchen manages to maintain its momentum. Another plus point is the relaxed atmosphere here, akin to your friendly neighbourhood joint with no stuffy dress code. With its intimate dining space, well thought out design and Chef Mashad’s culinary genius, we reckon BIG definitely deserves a pat in the back for a dining concept that ticks all the right boxes. Next on the agenda is weekend brunch that is rumoured to be filled with eggs and foie gras. Lunch is still a work-in-progress that is set to roll out in a month’s time. Hit & Mrs, 15 & 15A, Lorong Kurau, Taman Weng Lock, Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur. Tel:03-22823571. Open: 6pm to 10.30pm. (Tuesdays to Sundays). Closed on Mondays.
LEMON CUSTARD, RASPBERRY
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THE MALAY MAIL
FRIDAY 7, december 2012
INSIDE THE COSY MEZZE
DUCK AND CHICKEN SPRING ROLLS
LAMB PILAF PIE
SINCE it opened its doors in Daman- topping is made from a variety of sara Heights about two years back, cherry and sundried tomatoes that Mezze’s Mediterranean menu has gives you a sweet taste. Another good evolved to also incorporate Asian fa- bar snack, popular with regulars is the vourites to suit diners’ palates. Mez- Duck and chicken spring rolls (RM21). ze’s owner, Datin Shantini Sabapathy You get an appetizing crunch followed also has culinary input in the menu, by a generous filling of aromatic pulled adopting dishes she sampled from roasted duck and chicken, mixed with overseas, working together with Mez- feta cheese and mushrooms. And for ze’s Chef Yves Renou. The restaurant a local twist, dip it with a mild sambal also prides itself from making every- relish served on the side. Hungry tummies can tuck into the thing from scratch like sausages, pickLamb pilaf pie (RM38), the proud inles and sauces. The casual bistro serves tapas plates vention of Datin Shantini. Dig into the like the Trio of bruschetta (RM18). flaky crust to discover fluffy basmati The crunchy baguettes are topped rice layered with cashews, raisins and with three flavours: a moreish pureed hidden treasure in the form of tender spinach with mozzarella, roasted to- chunks of lamb cooked with aromatic matoes with basil, and a light tasting spices. A cooling raita topped with on the funghi au truffle. The roasted tomato pomegranates is also served RinggitPlus1MMMCompetition_MalayMail_(18cmx26cm)_Teaser_2012-11-26.pdf 1 14/11/2012
side. Laden with smoky bacon strips, the Carbonara (RM26) makes a comforting creamy dish with raw egg yolk you mix with the spaghetti strands. For Fridays and Saturdays, lunch is served up to 5pm. One of the menu items includes the Vietnamese Pho Beef noodle soup (RM26.90). According to Ling Ang, Mezze’s restaurant manager, their broth is heartier and more robust with the addition of oxtail. Chef Yves credits this version to his father who lives in Vietnam. The smooth rice noodles, is served with a generous portion of tender oxtail and rare beef slices, with a side of basil and mint leaves, and bean sprouts. Leave room for desserts, like Mezze’s signature Sticky toffee pudding (RM17), a moist sponge cake with 7:44:09 PM
a thick caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream, said to be Datin Shanti’s family recipe. There is also decadent chocolate in the form of a Chocolate Royale cake (RM18). For Christmas, the bistro also does takeaway for their duck liver pate and sausages. A popular takeaway item is their homemade hams served with raisin sauce. Upstairs, you can relax in their lounge or at the bar with its range of cocktails, beer on tap and a selection of over 50 single malt whiskies. Mezze Bistro, Wine Bar & Lounge, 132, Jalan Kasah, Medan Damansara, Kuala Lumpur Tel:03-20950122. Open: 3pm to 1am (Monday to Thursday), 12 noon to 1am (Fridays and Saturdays). Closed on Sundays.
STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING
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Friday DECEMber 7, 2012 S P E C IAL
D I G I TAL
E D I T I O N
W I T H
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SWISS ROLLS TO WIN YOU OVER Cake lovers can enjoy these sweet treats with a cup of tea
Who moved my cow? The adorable Moo Moo Swiss roll (RM13.80) from RT Bakery House wins hands down in the cuteness category. Emblazoned with charcoal black spots, this soft roll is full of milky goodness in the soft creamy center. Light and ﬂuffy best describes the Mixed Fruit Roll (RM35 or RM5 per slice) from Patisserie Rui. This small Japanese themed cake shop specialises in ﬂuffy sponge cakes. The roll has a slick of lemon curd, pillow soft whipped cream and fresh fruits. It’s baked fresh daily so come early to grab your slice. On occasion, you can strike a chocolate roll (RM6 per slice) too.
Sink your teeth in the intense ﬂavours of Green Tea (RM9.50) and Black Sesame (RM10.50) Swiss rolls from San Terri Cottage. The café also sells chocolate and coffee ﬂavours.
Purple taro goodness is what the Taro Swiss Roll (RM11.80) from RT Bakery House is all about. Hidden within its purple folds is a shot of taro mousse that enhances the light and moist sponge cake. Other ﬂavours are available such as green tea, bamboo charcoal, chicken ﬂoss, black sesame. Prices start from RM8.90 onwards.
ROL RO RO
Swee meets sa in the form o Chicken Floss per slice) from B sounds weird bu the combination savoury taste m cake less rich
FRIDAY 7 DECEMBER 2012
Based on the Japanese Castella, the Honey Egg Roll (RM15) from Lavender Bakery is a soft and sweet treat. Grab other breads and cakes at this bakery cum café.
The King of fruits makes its appearance in the Durian Nama Roll (RM18) from The Loaf at Tokyo Street. The creamy moist rolls are best eaten chilled even though the taste of durian is rather mild. Other ﬂavours include chocolate, mixed fruits, green tea, caramel maple syrup and original.
LL OLL OLL AWAY
Japanese bakeries love their rolls and at you can enjoy the rich java taste in the Coffee Roll (RM9.50 per slice) by Sun Moulin Bakery. They also have the mixed fruits roll, and other ﬂavours such as vanilla, chocolate, green tea and strawberry.
Crave hunts down various swiss rolls in the Klang Valley with all kinds of ﬂavours to satisfy any swiss roll addict. Most of them are filled with cream but if you prefer old-fashioned tastes, go for the ones filled with kaya. Our favourite is the one sold at the small stall along Lorong Yap Ah Loy.
et avoury of the Roll (RM3.50 Bread Story. It ut surprisingly, n works as the makes the h.
WHERE TO FIND:
Intense is how one can describe the Strawberry Roll (RM15) sold by Komugi Cafe. The soft sponge cake is drenched in a fragrant red berry topping. Inside there’s mochi and red beans. Other ﬂavours include mango, black tea peach apricot, vanilla, green tea and the unusual red yeast apple and shoyu.
Bread Story is at LG333, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, PJ, Tel:03-77277155, with other outlets in Mid Valley Megamall, Sunway Pyramid and IPC; Komugi Café is at Lot 24/1A, Tokyo Street, Level 6, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur, Tel:03-21480369; Lavender Bakery is at G213, Ground Floor, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Petaling Jaya, Tel:03-77283533; Patisserie Rui is at G1b, Mont Kiara Meridin, 19, Jalan Duta Kiara, KL, Tel: 03-62079282; RT Bakery House is at 8-0-7, Jalan 31/109F, Danau Business Centre, Taman Danau Desa, Kuala Lumpur, Tel:03-79819106. Other outlets can be found on www.rtpastry.com ; San Terri Cottage is at F-09A, First Floor, Hartamas Shopping Centre, KL, Tel:016-2276428; Sun Moulin Bakery is at G201, Ground Floor, 1 Utama Shopping Centre, Petaling Jaya, Tel: 03-77103710, The Loaf is at P.6.35.00, Sixth Floor, Tokyo Street, Pavilion KL, Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur.
THE MALAY MAIL