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Letter from the Publisher A while back, I was recording an episode of Under My Host, my podcast that hosts craft beverage manufacturers, with Drew Fox of 18th Street Brewery. We were discussing and drinking his beer Chloé, a blood orange saison that Drew named after his daughter. Drew had squeezed the blood oranges and steeped the hibiscus flowers used in the brew with his own two hands, and the bottle’s artwork was created to commemorate a trip that he and his wife had taken to France with a very young Chloé. While I drank this delicious saision, I listened to every minute detail that had inspired Drew to create it and I was reminded that this wasn’t just a beer. What I held in my hands represented my friend’s love of craft, his hard work, a beloved memory, and what I think will be a long and happy future for Drew, his family and 18th Street Brewery. Everything about that moment embodies craft/CRAFT for me. The thing that has always drawn me to the craft industry is the people. Yes, a well-crafted product is paramount, but beyond that I’ve always wanted to know the people who have a hand in the products I love so much. The more craftspeople I developed friendships with, the more I wanted others to know about them, their products and their personal stories. Knowing and learning about them makes me feel more strongly connected to the products, and I knew that others would feel the same way. I felt that if I could share these stories, I could put a face and a personality on smaller, lesser known brands and others would want to support them and seek them out. From these beliefs, Under My Host was born. Not long after that, I decided I wanted to create a platform that would give craft producers an even bigger voice and a place that would allow me to share more stories and more products. This magazine is the realization of that desire. Most of the people working in the craft industry made the decision to work harder, and for less money, to produce goods they are proud of. They are putting the money that you paid back into their own communities, making them strong instead of depleting and homogenizing them. My hope is that readers will come to realize how important their spending power is, to be more thoughtful of where their money goes and to find beauty in things as small as the food and drink they take in everyday, and to appreciate that and enjoy it to the fullest. If this magazine encourages the reader to be conscientious about their purchases, buy from smaller businesses, buy handcrafted, local, quality goods whenever possible, then I will have succeeded. I want to show that for every purchase they make that supports a Drew or a Chloé, they are playing an important role and making a difference in their community. Thank you so much for reading CRAFT and for your support of this exceptional industry. Cori Paige Founder & Publisher

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CRAFT by Under My Host 速 Issue 1 Founder/Publisher Cori Paige Editor in Chief Erin Jimcosky Creative Director Mika Wist Managing Editor Liz Demakos Proofreaders Nicole Cassese Angie Hager For advertising opportunities, please email: info@craftbyundermyhost Follow us on Twitter @craft- byUMH Like us on Facebook Follow us on Instagram


Letter from the Editor Dear Readers, Last November, I emailed Founder & Publisher Cori Paige to congratulate her on the start of her new magazine, CRAFT by Under My Host. I had very recently left the publisher’s position at another magazine, determined to focus on a quieter life and my writing career, but that was not to be. As hard as I tried to fight it, I could not deny that my interest was piqued by what she was doing here. I have always loved craft food and beverage and the opportunity to share them with you on another level, entirely different than I had ever been able to before, was enticing. And so, after two months of saying “no,” I agreed to be the editor in chief for CRAFT. Now, five months into magazine production, I know that I’ve made the right decision. I am working with an incredible core team of writers and have had guest contributors that, admittedly, have left me a bit star struck. In our first issue, we are lucky enough to have the likes of James Watt of BrewDog fame, Rodrick Markus “The Truffle Fairy” of Rare Tea Cellar, Master Distiller Dave Pickerell of Whistle Pig and Hillrock Estates, Matt Lindner of Crafthouse Cocktails, and winemaker Aaron Pott of Pott Wine. I am grateful to all of our industry contributors for giving us a glimpse into a side of production that can only be viewed from their side of the table. Writer Colin Joliat will show you that hope finds a way in Gary, Indiana at the 18th Street Brewery. We celebrate our first issue with cocktails created by some of the most terrific bartenders in America in Celebrate Craft: Inaugural Cocktails. And Sean Z. Paxton “The Homebrew Chef” shows us what we can do with a bottle of Hefeweisen, a mixing bowl and a little ingenuity. Cocktail Editor at Large Charles Joly of The Aviary and Crafthouse Cocktails keeps our fingers on the pulse of the cocktail scene while penning his own column, Parched. Behind-the-scenes Managing Editor Liz Demakos has been furiously editing each piece to perfection while Creative Director Mika Wist has made them visually stunning. Of course, nothing would have happened at all without our own personal category-five hurricane that we all know as CRAFT’s Founder & Publisher Cori Paige. She is a passionate champion of the craft industry and without her relentless drive, none of us would be here. Thank you for joining me in this celebration of the craft industry. I hope you enjoy reading this magazine half as much as I enjoyed making it. Cheers, Erin Jimcosky Editor in Chief Hit us up on Twitter with any leads you may have on new craft food or beverage products: @CraftbyUMH © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


Contributors

CRAFT by Under My Host® | Issue 1

Warren Bobrow Contributing Writer @WarrenBobrow1

Warren has published over three hundred articles on food, wine, and cocktail mixology since 2009 when he left the corporate world. Warren’s first book, Apothecary Cocktails: Restoratives from Yesterday and Today, has been nominated for a Spirited Award at the 2014 Tales of the Cocktail. His second book, Whiskey Cocktails, will be released in October 2014. In addition to his popular blog, The Cocktail Whisperer, Warren is the “On Whiskey” columnist for Okra Magazine.

Bradford Crowder Contributing Writer | Blogger, The Bedlam of Beefy @UncleBeefy

Bradford Crowder, better known to the interwebs as “Uncle Beefy,” is a blogger/baker/artist and the founder and editor of the design blog, The Bedlam of Beefy. When not engaging his magpie-level distraction for all things sparkly or baking a mean cake, he spends his time on an island outside of Seattle with his two blind cats, a scrappy Bichon Frise, and his partner, Kendall.


Sam J. Cruz

Columnist | El Guapo, Against The Grain Brewery @AtGBrewery Beer has played a crucial role in Sam’s life, and his dream to own and operate a brewery manifested when he and his two friends, Adam and Jerry, founded Against The Grain. Since then Sam has moved away from brewing and plays a more diverse role as HR manager, digital manager, creative director, sales director, bathroom attendant, visionary, and face of the A-team. He lives in southern Indiana and enjoys the summer gardening season and, of course, drinking the nectar of the gods... beer!

Derek Duncan Contributing Writer @derekduncan4

Derek writes about sports, spirits and wine, culture and lifestyle. He lives in Decatur, Georgia with his wife and children and has a particular weakness for St. Émilion, Islay single malt and wheated bourbon.

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Liz Demakos

Managing Editor | Columnist, Wine School @coachdemakos After graduating from Wesleyan University, Liz worked as a travel writer in South America before putting down roots in California. She served as associate editor and columnist for Mutineer Magazine prior to joining CRAFT as managing editor. She also helps Second Glass throw Wine Riot, a national wine tasting expo, and can be found leading wine education classes at Canela in San Francisco.

Steve Gagner

Columnist | Army Captain, 14th Star Brewing @14thStarBrewing Steve enlisted in the US Army in 1996 and served in Korea before returning to Norwich University in 2001. As a Commissioned Second Lieutenant, Steve served in Iraq and Afghanistan. When he isn’t leading the busy life of a Captain in the Army, Steve works at his brewery, 14th Star Brewing, and is an executive board member of the Vermont Brewer’s Association, the chairman of the Vermont Brewer’s festival, and the co-founder of Veteran’s in Craft. He currently resides in St. Albans, Vermont with his wife Nicole and their two children.


Kate Gallagher

Columnist, The Fables of Labels | Owner, Northdown @TheNorthdown Previously in the veterinary emergency care field, Kate burnt out on that after 10 years and now works with her husband, Tom, owning their own bar and grill, Northdown, in Chicago. Her free time is spent being amused by two dogs and two cats, spoiling the nieces and nephews, reading, trying to keep a garden alive, and relaxing with the rest of the family. She will also always take the time to drink a sour.

Julian Goglia Cocktail Stylist | Barman

Julian Goglia is a partner and beverage director for The Pinewood in Decatur, Georgia. He was recently named one of the Top 25 Bartenders in the US by The Daily Meal, and Bartender of the Year by Eater Atlanta. He is a craft enthusiast and an avid collector of dogs, motorcycles and all things whiskey.

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Erin Jimcosky Editor in Chief | Columnist, Cocktail Hour in America @hungrymutineer

Erin started her career with a staff position at Mutineer Magazine in 2009, serving as the food editor, team coordinator and publisher, also penning the column Hungry Mutineer, which still runs today. She is a freelance writer, as well as a columnist and editor in chief for CRAFT. She is currently keeping it real in Northern Virginia with her husband and emo dog.

Phil Jimcosky

Photographer | IT | Henchman @foodaperture

Phil Jimcosky has done food and product photography for Mutineer Magazine, Anchor Distilling, Leaf & Vine Wine, St. Suprey and Greater Purpose Wine as well as location shoots in Spain. But, his real love is photojournalism. When he isn’t in his home studio he can be found chasing down the perfect image on the streets of Washington, DC.


Colin Joliat

Columnist, Cookbook Field Test | Shark Enthusiast @flintskinny

Colin Joliat is a freelance writer and editor in Chicago who specializes in the lifestyle side of the food and alcohol industries. Articles typically contain two parts information, one part comedy, and one part questionable judgment. He’s currently the food and alcohol editor for the illustrious men’s website, Guyism.com. His writing has been seen on Cocktails & Joints, Thrillist, and The Almanac Mag among others.

Charles Joly

Cocktail Editor at Large | Columnist, Parched @Charles_Joly

Chicago native Charles Joly is an award-winning lifelong food and beverage professional. Charles is currently the beverage director at Chef Grant Achatz’s restaurant Aviary in Chicago, a venture that earned him the 2013 James Beard Award for Outstanding Bar Program. Joly was formerly the chief mixologist and founder of the Drawing Room and EGM for Three Headed Productions. In 2013, he co-founded the award-winning bottled cocktail line Crafthouse Cocktails. He has earned many accolades and competitions and is one if the most decorated bartenders in the field. In June 2014, Charles won the coveted title of US Bartender of the Year at the USBG World Class Competition.

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Sean Kenyon

Columnist, Life Behind Bars | Barman @SeanKenyon Over the course of his 29-year bartending career, Sean has managed bars and cocktail programs in three states. In 2011, he realized a lifelong dream and opened Williams & Graham in Denver, Colorado. In 2013 and 2014, the bar was nominated for a James Beard award for the nation’s outstanding beverage program. National media such as CNN, Food & Wine, Imbibe, Wall Street Journal and Esquire have recently recognized his beverage programs. Sean feels blessed to be able to make a career out of something he loves so giving back to his community has always been a top priority, and he currently works with several Denver charities.

Matt Lindner

Contributing Writer | Barman | Entrepreneur Matt Lindner is a service industry junkie who has owned and operated 14 venues over the last 20 years. He has created groundbreaking concepts including Bird’s Nest, Big Wig, Salud Tequila Lounge, Cans Bar and Canteen, and the Drawing Room. Matt is the co-creator of Crafthouse Cocktails, a line of all-natural classic cocktails in a bottle.


Rodrick Markus

Contributing Writer | Owner, Rare Tea Cellar @RareTeaCellar Rod is president/CEO and master tea blender at Rare Tea Cellar, importing from 160 countries and stocking over 5000 ingredients. He is the tea sommelier at Madame Zuzu’s Tea House with Billy Corgan of the Smashing Pumpkins, owner of Truffle Fairy, co-founder/partner at Rare Botanical Bitters, co-founder/partner of Balsam Spirit of Vermouth, and creator of the World’s 1st Winter Black Perigord Truffle Bitters and Cocktail Syrups/ Shrubs. Imbibe magazine named him among the 75 People to Watch in 2014, and Andrew Zimmern of Bizarre Foods notes that “the inside of Rare Tea Cellar looks like a combination of a mad scientist’s laboratory and what could have been Indiana Jones’ storage space.”

Cori Paige

CRAFT Founder & Publisher | Media Personality @CraftbyUMH Cori started in media hosting her popular craft beverage-focused podcast Under My Host, where she has earned quite a following over the last few years. Cori founded CRAFT out of the desire to further spread the word about the craft food and beverage industry. She is the co-founder of the non-profit organizations Veterans in Craft and Fermelab. She was recently named one of Imbibe magazine’s 75 People to Watch in 2014.

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Sean Paxton

Columnist, Craft Beer Kitchen | Chef, Author, Media Personality @homebrewchef Seasoned writer Sean Paxton is no stranger to working in media, with names like Beer Advocate, Brew Your Own, Imbibe, Wine Enthusiast, Food & Wine, Esquire, Draft, Plate, and Culinary Trends under his belt. He is a judge for the Master Cicerone exam and contributed to the development of the master syllabus. Sean shares his love for beer cuisine by teaching at the Le Cordon Bleu in Portland, Oregon, Ramekins Culinary School, and “The Fork” in Northern California. He is also the creator and co-host for The Home Brewed Chef podcast on The Brewing Network, and is an active board member for the Northern California Homebrew Organization. Check out his site, HomeBrewChef.com

Dave Pickerell Master Distiller, Whistle Pig, Hillrock Estate Distillery @davepickerell

Dave has provided engineering consultation and equipment design for spirits facilities around the world. Previously master distiller for Maker’s Mark (1994 to 2008), he has been involved in everything from new brand investigation and operator training to facility design and optimization. He has served as a past chair of the technical committee and director for the Kentucky Distillers Association, and also served on the technical committee of the US Distilled Spirits Council. Most recently, Dave provides consulting services through his company, Oak View Consulting. He also serves as master distiller for Hillrock Estate Distillery, Whistle Pig Rye Whiskey, and George Washington’s Distillery at Mount Vernon.


Aaron Pott

Contributing Writer | Winemaker | Consultant @AaronPott

A graduate of UC Davis, respected winemaker Aaron Pott has plied his trade from Napa Valley to St. Émilion, France. He has worked for Château Troplong-Mondot, Beringer Wine Estates and Quintessa. These days when Aaron isn’t making wine under his own label, Pott Wine, he is a consultant for a select group of Napa Valley producers.

Anne Rogers Columnist, Spirited Abroad @anne_g_rogers

Originally from Atlanta, Georgia, Anne is currently working towards a master’s degree in brewing and distilling at Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh, Scotland. She divides her time between researching obscure botanicals by day and crafting the perfect Edinburgh pub crawl route at night.

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Brian Studwell

Columnist, Beans, Brews and Buzz @bwstud

Brian Studwell hails from the frigid winters of Rochester, New York and is a six-year veteran of the food and beverage industry, including serving as manager/bartender at Silver in Park City, Utah. Brian is a devoted lover of all things gastronomic and currently works as a writer and UX designer based out of Seattle, Washington.

James Watt Brewer, Brewdog @BrewDogJames

James Watt is the cofounder and captain of BrewDog, Scotland’s largest independent brewery and the fastest growing food and drinks company in the UK. Since 2007, he and Martin Dickie have pioneered the craft beer revolution in the UK, creating uncompromising, boundary pushing beers and shaking up a staid, soulless industry. The beer scene in the UK is now unrecognizable compared to how it was in 2007, and much of the community support and development is often attributed to the hard work, passion and dogged determination that James and Martin have for craft beer.


Mika Wist Creative Director @twisted2

Mika Wist is a freelance graphic designer specializing in the areas of package design, photography, and corporate identity. He prefers designing anything even remotely attached to food and drinks, and is a well-seasoned booze packaging designer. He has designed books for some of the best restaurants in Finland, Restaurant Juuri and the Michelin-starred OLO among them. The Restaurant Juuri book was recently released, and OLO’s second book with him will be out at the end of 2014. Mika is the recipient of high honors such as the Vuoden Huiput Awards, New York Festivals, Eurobest Awards, and Cresta Awards. Mika loves smoky malts, real ales and greasy food.

Brian Yaeger

Columnist, Music to My Beers Brian Yaeger is the author of Red,White, and Brew: An American Beer Odyssey and the forthcoming Oregon Breweries (late 2014), a complete guidebook. He contributed to the Oxford Companion to Beer and writes for national, local, and online publications and even earned a second-place award from the inaugural North American Guild of Beer Writers’ writing contest. Along with his wife, Half Pint, he runs Inn Beervana Bed & Beer in Portland, but it’s on hiatus until they return from a European beer odyssey living in Amsterdam with their son, IPYae and dog, Dunkel.

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CRAFT by Under My Host® Issue 1 // Summer 2014

Table of Contents Features

Columns

Celebrate Craft: Inaugural Cocktails – 74 Raise a glass to the inaugural issue of CRAFT with some of America’s favorite bartenders.

Tea Party - 22 From the Ground Up - 24 Life Behind Bars - 32 The fables of Labels - 36 Veterans in Craft - 40 The Scoop - 48 Tools of the Trade - 56 Makers and Shakers - 60 Brewer on Brewer Action - 66 Beer Cocktails - 92 Cookbook Field Test - 94 Beans, Brews, Buzz - 96 Summer Refreshers - 100 Cocktail Hour in America - 104 For the Kitchen - 120 Cocktail Spinoff - 122 Music to My Beers - 131 Cheese Dossier - 142 Craft Cookery - 168 Spirited Recommendations: Gin - 174 Beer Picks - 176 Wine Corner - 178 Craft Beer Kitchen - 182 Spirited Abroad - 188 Do Gooders – 202 Musicians on Craft - 208

Parched in Oahu – 114 Follow Cocktail Editor at Large Charles Joly as he drinks and dines his way around Oahu. We Live and Love What We Do . . . in Gary, Indiana – 144 Colin Joliat discovers why the 18th Street Brewery won’t give up on Gary, Indiana. Cracking into Craft – 192 Derek Duncan uncovers the realities of opening a craft distillery or winery with crowdfunding. Guest Columns Craft Beer For the People, by James Watt - 28 Why Craft? By Dave Pickerell - 70 Step Inside the Cellar, by Rodrick Markus – 44 Reverse Jimi, by Warren Bobrow - 112 Everything Starts in the Vineyard, by Aaron Pott - 134 Wine Recommendations, by Shauna Rosenblum - 64 The Portable, Potable Cocktail, by Matt Lindner - 140 Boozy Popsicles with Uncle Beefy - 204

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Two to Try

One To Visit

Andrews & Dunham Damn Fine Teas Red Tailed Hawk

Remedy Teas Seattle, Washington

Check out Red Tailed Hawk, a particularly fearsome blend in Andrews & Dunham’s exciting Damn Fine Teas collection. This delicious and smooth brew is made from leaves grown in the mountain tea terraces of India. Each Damn Fine Tea is processed by hand, ensuring a high quality brew. Pick up a can at DamnFineTea.com. Cost: $20.00 The Tea Spot Loose Leaf Red Rocks Rooibos Tea Looking for something a little more soothing? Check out the Loose Leaf Rooibos Tea from The Tea Spot in Boulder, CO. The flavors of this South African shrub are earthy, sweet and balanced. Rooibos is also packed with antioxidants and other good things, so you’re doing your body good when you sit down to a cup. Pick up a tin at TheTeaSpot.com. Cost: $10.99

Deep in the Capitol Hill neighborhood of Seattle, WA lies a third wave teashop that is creating quite a buzz. An industry once dominated by frilly shops that looked like Laura Ashley projectile vomited flowers and lace over every surface has officially become cool. There is no pinky extending at Remedy Teas; in fact, Founder Anthony Arnold wanted to create a completely different experience. “We love good tea of all types, from all parts of the world and like to present it in a decidedly modern, urban way,” says Arnold. Remedy doesn’t just stop at the atmosphere, but carries a wide variety of tea. What truly sets them apart is their enormous selection of blended teas and herbal tisanes. The blends are proprietary as well, so this is an experience you won’t find anywhere else, unless you visit them online. I’m a big fan of tisane #141 Licorice Fix. Trust me, it’s delicious.

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From the Ground Up By Liz Demakos Images courtesy of Bloom, Hapa Ramen, Pai Men Miyake, and o ya


By its very nature, Japanese food culture embraces variety and delights the senses, offering dishes that are distinctly varied, artful and intentional. So it makes sense that when the farm-to-table trend started picking up steam in the States, Japanese restaurants were an obvious choice to embrace the movement and made moves accordingly. From salmon to ramen and everything in between, these four restaurants are putting local, sustainable ingredients back at the top of the food chain. Bloom Ballard, WA The bento-box specialists Bloom turned their business into a brick-and-mortar staple thanks to a successful Kickstarter campaign in 2013. Chef Jason Harris (formerly of Showa, Sushi Kappo Tamura and Chiso) changes up the menu seasonally to capitalize on the freshest ingredients around. This past spring saw fresh Pacific oysters starring center stage in a bowl of Ramen with Hiroshima style broth, and other staples like the Lazy Devils (hard-boiled farm fresh organic eggs) make regular appearances on the appetizer menu. Come for happy hour (5–7 p.m. and 10 p.m.–close) to raid the stocked bar of Japanese whisky and spirits from local distilleries, or reach instead for a tall glass of their homemade ginger beer. Hapa Ramen San Francisco, CA The crew at Hapa Ramen is passionately devoted to infusing their carefully crafted ramen bowls with a love of all things local. They exclusively use organically raised animals, locally sourced konbu, and seasonal veggies from neighboring farms in the Bay Area to boost the economy and support the community. Offering a brief but succinct menu, the Big Daddy bowl tops the list with slowcooked pork, fried chicken, vegetables and an egg for $12. You find Hapa Ramen slinging noodles at the Ferry Building in San Francisco every Tuesday and Thursday as well as Off the Grid on Fridays, but devoted fans know to also keep an eye on the Twittersphere for pop-ups and special announcements. Š Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


Pai Men Miyake Portland, ME Meaning “100 noodles� in Japanese, Pai Men Miyake connects all the dots in the farm-to-table equation. The restaurant is the brainchild of Masa Miyake and is fueled by food straight from its very own Miyake Farm. Their veggie gardens and livestock are carefully tended and raised, including three new family members of Mangalitsa pigs, and once all the animals have led a good and happy life they triumph in the afterlife in dishes like guinea hog porchetta, paitan, spicy miso and pork katsu. Top off your pork appreciation dinner with a selection of their chilled sakes, and be sure not to leave without an order of steamed pork buns. o ya Boston, MA The menu at o ya is a tantalizing spread of the freshest nigiri, sashimi, and dozens of other culinary creations with all corners of the animal kingdom fairly represented. The Omakaze tasting menus come in 17 or 22 courses and feature the likes of Peruvian-style Bluefin tataki, Hamachi tartare, Santa Barbara sea urchin and Okinawan braised pork. Head chef Tim Cushman was recently crowned the Best Chef: Northeast by the James Beard Foundation, and the restaurant boasts a long and healthy list of accolades to support their unique and inspired vision. An enlightening experience for sushi lovers with a few Benjamins to burn.

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CRAFT BEER FOR THE PEOPLE by James Watt Craft beer is my life. It is my passion. The contents of a glass in one of our bars is the lifeblood of our company, and we live and die by the quality of that beer. It is the ultimate incarnation of why we exist and what we stand for, and without it, we are nothing. I am James Watt, and I am a craft brewer.

Ever since the inception of BrewDog in 2007, our mission has been to make other people as passionate about great craft beer as we are. That was what we set out to do on day one in a garage in Fraserburgh, and is still what we aim for seven years later with over 15,000 dedicated shareholders, an eco-brewery in Ellon, 13 bars across planet earth and over 200 committed craft beer crusaders working for us. I have been incredibly lucky to have crossed paths with some of the most enigmatic, innovative entrepreneurs in the UK during BrewDog’s lifetime, and it is fair to say they all share an inherent passion and unique quality. This personality and character is what takes their kernel of an idea to conception and execution and, ultimately, success. Sure, not every startup business idea succeeds, but it’s the twists and turns of business and the lessons you learn along the way that makes those

people come out stronger and create more awesome craft creations as a result. One of the coolest things about BrewDog is that we are not bound by any rules and regulations. We can brew the kind of beer we want to drink. That means we’ve been able to make awesome things like the world’s strongest beer, The End of History, which we packaged in taxidermy stoats and squirrels. There aren’t a lot of major multi-national conglomerates who would have the balls to do something like that. We’ve also brewed beer under the sea with Sunk Punk, held the world’s smallest protest featuring a dwarf outside the Houses of Parliament, and driven tanks around the Bank of London to launch our crowdfunding investment scheme, Equity for Punks. We’ve also been lucky enough to have collaborated with other breweries that we really admire. Stone Brewing, Mikkeller, Evil Twin, Oskar Blues, these are all breweries that


have influenced and developed the way we think about beer, and we’ve brewed some amazing collaborative beers with these guys, which is just fucking awesome. We are all craft breweries, and the community amongst our teams is unrivalled. In my formative years, I worked on a fishing trawler as a captain. This has given me two things. Firstly, a lifelong love for nautical ephemera and a die-hard love of sharks. I really like sharks. Secondly, a direct, forthright trajectory with my work. If I could provide one piece of advice for anyone embarking on an entrepreneurial project, it would be, “Never take no for an answer.” There is always a way, if you are willing to understand what you need to achieve and listen to people who know how to make it happen. The people who work at BrewDog are some of the most passionate, creative and crazy people I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. Some of them have green hair, some of them are trained bungee jump instructors, some even have more than three Blue Peter badges. But the one thing they all have in common is a huge amount of knowledge and passion for awesome © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.

beer. These people are what make BrewDog a success, and with any craft business you need to spend a lot of time and effort finding these diamonds in the rough; these valiant vagabonds whose dedication knows no bounds. People who will commit themselves 100% to your cause, be it craft beer, craft cola, craft dog beds or craft hammocks for hamsters. It’s the people who will make or break your endeavor. The people who brew our beer are, of course, incredibly vital to BrewDog, but it’s the people who drink our beer that have really made a massive change in the past few years. In 2009 we launched the first round of Equity for Punks, which has been repeated twice more in 2011 and 2013, selling out before the deadline each time. Equity for Punks enabled anyone and everyone to invest in BrewDog and get discounts in our bars and online shop, as well as score an invite to our rock ‘n’ roll AGM featuring exclusive beer tastings, bands and business talks. This signaled a change in the way people think about beer and investments, and it has had a huge impact on how we as a business communicate with our customers. These customers have become not only investors, putting their money


where their mouth is and investing in the UK’s fastest growing food and drinks business, but they are now ambassadors of our brewery. They are craft beer crusaders roaming the streets and introducing their friends and families to other insane, impeccable tasting beer. Without them, we wouldn’t have been able to grow our business as fast as we have, and collectively they have invested over £7m ($11.6m). An awesome product is the heart and soul of any craft endeavor, but it is the people who provide the oxygen to bring it to life. I am James Watt, and craft is my calling.


Life


Behind Bars by Sean Kenyon Photography by Adam Larkey

My name is Sean Kenyon and I am an industry lifer. I’m not working my way through college, supplementing my income, or using the industry as a bridge between jobs. Bartending is my life, my career and my passion. I am a third generation barman and bar owner that has been tending bar for going on 29 years. It’s all I’ve ever wanted to do. And, as cliché as it sounds, I don’t feel like I have worked a day in my life. Ongoing, this will be an “Ask the Bartender” column. I’ll do my best to answer questions, address issues in our community, feature the positive and call out the negative. Sometimes, I’ll just tell you a story or two. Last October, I was in Portland for Cocktail Week. At the end of the first day, my good friend and colleague, Jason Patz, decided to attend a hospitality seminar with guest speakers Erik Adkins, Joaquin Simo, and Murray Stenson. The seminar was amazing with each man approaching the subject from a different angle. Murray finished out the seminar with a heartfelt thank you to the bar community for rallying around him (and raising almost $200K) when he fell ill. It brought many bartenders in the room to tears (I wasn’t crying, I just got something in my eyes). Well, I digress… Later that night, I called my Dad, because Murray reminds me of him. Both barmen have loyal followings and they come from an era where hospitality was king. My father thought it was humorous that working bartenders had to attend a seminar to learn about hospitality. When Murray and my dad were young bartenders, their guests didn’t care whether you

used rye or Cognac in your Sazerac, and no one made their own bitters or tonic. Bartenders didn’t distinguish themselves with their cocktail creations; they counted on their personalities, attentive service, and the art of conversation. Barmen and women of their era learned to take care of people before they learned to make drinks. Because, hospitality is and always has been the foundation of our craft. Bartenders were taking care of people long before fancy drinks were ever served. Many of today’s bartenders are learning the craft in reverse. Big money cocktail competitions and bar owners, obsessed with having the best cocktail program in town, are hiring people on the basis of their cocktail knowledge. In many cases these learned drink producers are socially awkward vending machines in vests and bowties. They can quote page thirty-seven of the Savoy and they’ve mastered spherification, foams and dehydration techniques, but they cannot

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tell you who won last night’s game, tomorrow’s weather forecast, or have a discussion about current events. While being able to make a great cocktail is paramount to the craft of the bartender, the true foundation is hospitality. For over 200 years bartenders have been the key to their communities; knowledgeable of local news, sports and quick to recommend other local bars and restaurants. For our craft to continue to thrive, we have to circle back to that way of being. My father read three newspapers before he stepped behind the bar each day. That reading produced conversation, that conversation produced regulars. Many of those regulars have been following him for 40 years. It is important to note that we, as bartenders, serve people, not drinks. We now have a more educated clientele, and it is our duty to meet their expectations. If you care about your craft, you should know when to shake and when to stir, the difference between rye and bourbon and how to make a delicious NA beverage. But, the priority should always be the guest. So, bar owners, take your time when hiring bartenders. Hire the personality and you can train the skill. I can teach anyone how to shake and stir drinks, but I can’t teach them how to have a genuine personality. When I hire bartenders, our first interview is like a first date. I ask about their life and goals, and I give a little bit of my own background and history. Essentially, we begin to establish a relationship. If we like each other, our second date/interview is often in a bar, restaurant, or coffee shop. Because, there are a lot of people who are all-star interviewees, but their real life personality is nothing like the pretty picture they paint of themselves. I like to see how they interact with other bartenders, servers, baristas, etc. Is there eye contact, smiles, and warmth? People who only possess those qualities behind the bar are essentially actors and eventually our © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.

guest will see through the veneer. If after two dates, we both see a future, then we move into a commitment: a job. I start new bartenders as bar prep. After some time, they move into barback. At each level, the new employee learns the backbone of the bar, where everything is located, how syrups are made, garnished prepped, and what a bartender needs during service. They get to learn by seeing our bartenders at work. They learn drink recipes and most important, the art of taking care of our guests. Once they make it to bartender, they respect the position it shows in their work. To do it right, it takes a lot of commitment and energy, but more often than not, it pays dividends for both parties. You get a knowledgeable and motivated employee and they have learned a craft from its foundation. The bottom line is, if you develop great bartenders, starting from the foundation of hospitality, then you have a clear path to success. To have a great bar, you have to start with great bartenders. Seems like a lot of commitment for something so simple as “great service.” But, the beauty of service is in its nobility. Our guests will see none of this process, they will just enjoy the result: an amazing experience. My goal as a career barman is to elevate the guest experience. One way to achieve this is to share the knowledge that I’ve attained across almost three decades “behind bars,” hence this column. So, drinkers and bartenders alike, please send in your questions on bartending, cocktails, life, love and the pursuit of the perfect dram. I’ll do my best to provide answers, insight and an occasional (or frequent) smartass remark.


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,

20 Questions: An Artist s Account , ,

Featured Artist: Josh Jawsh Lemke Beer/Label: Surly Darkness By Kate Gallagher Images courtesy of Josh Lemke


How did you get involved and chosen to design this label? I’ve been involved for a while with Surly doing “Surly Gives A Damn” volunteer work, working the events, and wax dipping bottles. I’ve also worked the taproom and painted a mural above the taproom three years ago. One day, I received a phone call from Omar [Ansari, owner of Surly] asking me if I would like to be this year’s Artist in Residence.* What sort of publicity have you received as a result? I was voted Best Beer Label Art for Darkness in the ‘Kind of a Big Deal’ awards given by Minneapolis beer publication The Growler magazine. I also had a feature interview in The Growler along with smaller write-ups and blog write-ups for Darkness and my art for it. Do you have any upcoming projects planned? There are a couple projects in the talks but the big one right now that I’m working on is the Surly Anniversary beer label art for ‘EIGHT.’ It’s going to be awesome. Do you think that doing this label has increased your exposure? It definitely has. It has exposed my art to a vast audience that normally wouldn’t see it. Being a mural painter, I feel like a lot of people have seen my art but have never known who the artist was. This amazing opportunity has helped bring a lot of people to know me as an artist and has brought my art to a larger audience. What are three words that describe your background? Metal, aerosol, and skiing.

How about three words to describe your style? Metal. Doom. Raw. What inspired you for this project? The art for Darkness was inspired by part of the Surly Brewing Company mural Adam Turman and I painted. I painted a flaming skull with a beard on the side of the brewery that we all named Brewcifer. From there it was just elaborating on that idea and theme. It was inspired by my love for painting, beer and metal. What are some of your favorite labels for beer, wine, spirits and food? There are so many different labels coming out daily so it’s always changing. For beer labels I tend to learn more towards the metal art style and hand-drawn illustration work. For wine, I like sophisticated, classic, clean, stylized, ornate designing. When it comes to spirits I think it’s more about branding advertising as a whole. Food is an art in itself and not so much about the label. Each one has a style of its own and it’s hard to pinpoint because you go into a store and you’re constantly bombarded by images. There is so much out there nowadays it’s almost overwhelming. As far as art as an advertising medium, what are some works that have caught your eye? There hasn’t really been any advertising lately that I’ve been wowed by. There is a ton out there but nothing that catches my eye or piques my interest. What are you drinking lately? Do you have a favorite watering hole? I go between drinking beer and bourbon. As far as beer goes, and this may be cliché, but

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my go-to is Surly in general. We have a lot of really good new breweries going up right now so it’s nice to get out and try different things. One of my favorite watering holes is Grumpy’s in downtown Minneapolis. It’s a fantastic environment with great people and great music. Another spot that’s actually quite the diamond in the rough is Uptown Tavern. This little spot is a gem for some amazing craft beers and can feed my hunger for discovering some awesome new beers. Is art a full-time job for you? I just started working at Surly Brewing Co. full time. When not working there I’m doing art, drawing illustration work or painting murals and canvases, or relaxing with my amazing wife. Who in your life inspires you? People who inspire me the most are my friends, my co-workers, my family and my wife. I draw inspiration from all of them in different ways. Do you have pets? How do they contribute? We have two cats, Deaner and Trixie (named after the movie Fubar). They’re both a light to my day. They always make me smile and can be very therapeutic and relaxing. They can be more of a hindrance sometimes; it’s hard to get motivated to leave the house when they’re snuggled up on my lap, and they love to walk all over my drawings. Sometimes they even lay on my art when I’m at my desk drawing, so I guess you can say they contribute in that way. Describe the space you create in. Do you thrive in chaos? My art space at home is in our cozy basement. It’s a nice table full of art supplies, empty beer bottles with art that I enjoy, vinyl toy figures, and art books underneath the table. I like to “try” and keep it tidy but it defi-

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nitely gets away from me at times. This usually happens when I’m under stress and have a lot of work going on. My other art “space” is onsite at mural locations. These I like to keep organized otherwise it becomes complete chaos trying to find supplies.

*Surly features an artist each year, and while this year’s artist has already been chosen, you have plenty of time to hone your skills and shoot for the moon next year. Links for the Artist in Residence application process can be found here: surlybrewing.com/eventsblog

Do you find yourself falling into interweb black holes? When I have time to go online it’s usually the typical social media sites (jawshtheartist), metal sites like MetalSucks or Metal Injection, and basic news sites. What do you consider your greatest accomplishment thus far? Greatest personal and professional accomplishment would be my Darkness label design. It’s pretty surreal to have my art on thousands of bottles that go all over the world. What is a cause you give a fuck about and why? Wildcat Sanctuary. Not only because it’s located in Minnesota but also because it’s a great organization doing great things for cats. They all need love and a place to go. Your perfect last meal? A nice porkbased meal with a tasty old fashioned, straight bourbon, or an IPA. Assuming you’re not incarcerated, where would you have it? There are three places I would dine, one in Minneapolis and two in Chicago. I’d go to Butcher and The Boar in Minneapolis and Publican or Purple Pig in Chicago. If you could steal any work of art from any museum in the world, what would it be and why? Marcel Duchamp’s Nude Descending a Staircase. It’s been a favorite of mine since college.

top 10 most played at this moment

1. At The Gates - Slaughter Of The Soul 2. Gorguts - Colored Sands 3. Behemoth - Demigod 4. Ulcerate - Vermis 5. Vainaja - Kadotetut 6. Inferi - The Path Of Apotheosis 7. Schammasch - Contradiction 8. Wolfheart - Winterborn 9. Soreption - Engineering The Void 10. Revocation - Revocation


I would have never considered “work” to be therapeutic. I certainly would’ve never expected to start a business that is almost completely antithetical to the entirety of my life’s work. Yet here I stand, hunched over the wooden-clad mash tun, stirring grain into the hot water and working out demons at the same time. I am not a professional brewer, at least not by education or trade. I own a small craft brewery, but I still feel as though the definition of “professional brewer” applies to others. I’m a soldier, as was my father before me. For the better part of two decades, I have served wherever the Army has asked and have generally enjoyed every assignment and every station. I have served as a very junior enlisted man and as an Officer during times of peace and war. War. It’s such a small word with such a broad definition. Whatever definition the politicians of the day fancy, it still remains the duty of the armed forces to fight and win our nation’s wars. Stripped of the politics and genteelness that seem to have become the requisite garb for warfighting these days, our Soldiers, Sailors, Airmen, and Marines do an amazing job, on the whole, of fulfilling their country’s mandate of winning those wars. Therein lies the rub: after decades of being trained during peacetime to bring “effects” on the enemy, followed by the practical application of that training overseas, how then do we, as a country, return our sons and daughters to civilian life? What tools have we given them, aside from leadership experience and possibly a trade, to succeed when they are no longer asked to fight wars? Have we provided them with the outlets and services required to cope with some of the things they have seen and done?

Thankfully, I can say that there has been a dramatic push to extend services to our returning veterans. I can also say that some of my best therapy didn’t occur sitting on a couch talking about my feelings (although I did seek therapy after both combat deployments as a preventive measure and I encourage all returning veterans to do the same; you don’t check the oil in your car after your engine has seized…). After my first deployment to Iraq, I was stationed a few hours away from my wife and newborn daughter, returning home only on the weekends. I began homebrewing at my apartment simply to pass the time and to keep my mind off of the loneliness. I become hooked to the creation, the crafting, and the creativity that went into every batch, and in sharing my beer with others. Beers that I had envisioned, brewed, nurtured through fermentation, and bottled would become the highlight of gatherings where we would sit and talk about our shared experiences and serve as each other’s quasi-therapists. We would enjoy a beer, talk, discuss, mourn, and laugh—and we could share all of this over a beer. There was no turning back for me. I knew I had found something that would remain part of my life forever: brewing beer. A few years later, I found myself in a small mountain outpost in eastern Afghanistan. Responsible for the roughly one hundred

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soldiers from America, Macedonia, and Afghanistan living there without power or running water, I could think of three things: my family, the unit’s survival, and beer. The second would almost certainly lead me to the others, so that naturally became my priority. In between planning, inspecting, conducting operations, maintaining security and more planning, many of my soldiers took to reading books or playing cards as a pastime. I was planning a brewery. Fast forward two years to find me and my best friend Matt, finishing mopping the floor after our first official brew day as “professional” brewers. Having never worked in a brewery before, I had no idea the amount of physical work and mental focus required to brew beer on a commercial scale. T-shirt drenched in a combination of sweat, steam and rinse water, my back and feet hurt and I was mentally exhausted (I have since learned that proper clothing and simple machines make for a much more comfortable brew day). I was wet, tired and hungry, and I loved every minute of it. Three weeks later, we opened our doors with no advertising and very little fanfare. Friends and locals alike came by to fill growlers and check out the city’s new brewery. I was terrified as the first few samples were poured. I had never experienced anything like this: I was “putting it out there” for people to enjoy or discard, to judge or remain indifferent to. My fascination with crafting beer was masked by insecurity about my skill. Was I better at waging war than making beer? Was this a horrible, misguided venture? Almost two years later, the brewery is doing well; we are underway with a massive expansion as I write this article and I’m looking forward to the day when I can finally hang up my combat boots for brew© Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.

er’s boots full time. I was fortunate to receive a call from Cori Paige last year to be one of the guests on her podcast, Under My Host, on Veteran’s Day. One of the items we discussed was how therapeutic this industry of creation can be for veterans returning from overseas and how they’re well-suited for the hard work, collaboration, and sense of community that come with the brewing profession. That conversation would eventually become “Veterans in Craft” (ViC), a non-profit organization designed to assist veterans interested in pursuing a career in craft beverage with training and hands-on experience to make them a more viable candidate for employment. While still in its infancy, we’re excited about helping other veterans find that same sense of fulfillment, pride, and accomplishment I felt (and still feel) when those first samples poured at the brewery two years ago were met with resounding approval. Creating something that is uniquely yours, caring for it, nurturing it, and finally “putting it out there” for others to judge and enjoy is incredibly difficult, but it has served as a life-saver for me and, with the exception of my wife and children, my greatest accomplishment. I know it can be just as powerful for others. My journalistic contribution to CRAFT, therefore, will be to update the readership on the progress of ViC, share the generosity of producers willing to assist in the endeavor, and to highlight the successes of our veterans-turned-craftsmen and women. I am honored to be a part of this publication and the ability to continue to “serve,” albeit in pints these days. Cheers!


Step Inside the Cellar: Teas in the Extreme By Rodrick Markus Images courtesy of Rodrick Marcus

Since I was a child, I have always been on the hunt for the rare and unusual. Today that impulse is stronger than ever, and I continue my relentless quest for the extraordinary with Rare Tea Cellar. As President/CEO and Master Blender I take tea blending to another level, utilizing rare ingredients never before used in tea blends. I have been studying the Japanese tea ceremony for ten years and am a member of the Urasanke Tea School of Japan. I have been importing tea for over 20 years, searching the globe for single estate varietals, biodynamic-organic products, and vintage varietals rarely found even in the country of origin.


I specialize in the best of the best. Whatever we do at Rare Tea Cellar, whether it’s exotic or not, has to be extraordinary. I maintain a cellar with Vintage Pu-erh tea dating back to 1930, and import teas upwards of $20,000.00 per pound. We have teas on restaurant menus fetching upwards of $400.00 for a single teapot of tea as rare as the finest Bordeaux in the world. My network of resources now includes wild foragers, truffle hunters, artisan gourmet producers and ingredient specialists in 160 countries. Our teas and ingredients have been served to everyone from the Dali Lama, Oprah, and Ferran Adria to Andrew Zimmern of Bizarre Foods and heads of state from all over the world.

That’s not to say it was ever easy. We weren’t following a rainbow coming out of the butt of an angel or anything; it was more like hardcore mortal combat.We got here the hard way. I’ve almost gone broke ten times over the last 15 years trying to make this happen. We took a lot of chances, and ideas we thought would succeed fell by the wayside, but things eventually took hold and everything started coming to center. Chefs and bartenders are the new rock stars, and we’re gaining big exposure from our big breaks in the past.

The biggest advantage to being a craft producer is that anything goes. Some of our craziest, most amazing products have come out of saying, “Why not?” It’s fun to see something that we had hoped would be powerful become as exciting as it is. Being a small producer, we’re able to give focus to smaller artisans all over the world. A big producer may say,“I can only accommodate three cases of your product a month, or a year, I can’t do anything more or less,” whereas we can funnel and control supply and give smaller artisans a voice. We’re on the hunt not only for what’s next but what we haven’t seen. This has opened up a lot of pipelines to some outrageous artisanal producers, which creates a domino effect into meeting even more suppliers and foragers, and we’re slowly piecing together a team of experts all over the world who we’re working with. No idea or parcel is too small; we’ve brought in things as small as an ounce because we thought it was amazing, and that’s simply not viable at the large producer scale.

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To that end, we’ve got some really exciting new things in the works. In 2013 I launched an exclusive partnership with Billy Corgan of the Smashing Pumpkins, and we’re taking our tea on the Smashing Pumpkin’s world tour. I am the official Tea Sommelier and exclusive tea blender for Madame Zuzu’s Tea House, and we are working on launching a number of new products together in 2014. Rare Tea Cellar is partnering with Boyd and Blair to launch one of our most exciting ventures, Balsam Spirit of Vermouth, together with Adam Seger (blending and formulation) and Barry Young (distillation). We are the first America-made artisan vermouth and the first vermouth in the country with wormwood. We are launching our White Balsam Vermouth worldwide, a game-changing spirit that’s ready to pour over ice or use in your favorite cocktail creations. Additionally, I am co-founder of Rare Botanical Bitters Corporation with the amazing Adam Seger, launching the world’s first French Winter Black Truffle Bitters “Truffe Amere,” utilizing a 1700-pound truffle into a one-of-a-kind bitters. We have also launched a line of tea syrups and tea shrubs along with other soon-to-be-released limited edition products. Currently I have a warehouse full of sherry, bourbon and tequila barrels aging and scenting everything from limited edition teas, kombu seaweed, togarashi spice and chocolate, to name a few. We’re blurring the lines and taking what we’ve learned from working in the tea world and applying it to the cocktail world, even the pastry world. Whether it’s granulated garlic or green tea from the Himalayan Mountains, we’re doing what we can to have it go through a secondary fermentation or some other interesting process to take it to a place where it’s never really gone before. When working with some of our earliest advocates like Adam Seger and Charles Joly, watching what they do with certain ingredients just blows my © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.

mind. We’ll hand Charles five different earl gray teas, and he’ll put them over dry ice and allow them to aromatize the cocktail area they’re sitting in. It’s just off the charts. We continually take the ordinary and bring it to the extraordinary level. That innovation in combination with what we’re sourcing makes a tremendous impact. Nothing’s wrong; we’re always thinking outside the box, playing and trying new things. These days I am sourcing for the most creative restaurants in the world including Alinea, Next, Moto, Aviary, Noma, Manresa, Spago, Grace and hundreds more. The floodgates are opening in a big way, causing a kind of secondary fermentation of my own brain. Working with these people prompts a new way of looking at ingredients and products, and inspires even further applications and manipulations. The possibilities are endless, and chefs around the world are now coming to me and asking me my opinion. They’ll say, “We have five types of saffron. Which would you use? What do you think?” It’s an incredibly humbling experience.

Numbers at a glance 400 rare teas 310 vintages of pu-erh tea 500 custom rare tea cellar blends 150 bar ingredients 200 rare spices and salts 120 wild foraged herbs, roots, mushrooms and vegetables 40 freeze-dried fruits and vegetables 35 vinegars 26 rare syrups 40 artisanal vinegars wild fresh truffles 365 days a year


New On the Scene: Thistle Meats Charcuterie & Larder Petaluma, CA

Charcuterie in the House: Old Major Denver, CO

The citizens of Petaluma can stop driving to Napa to fulfill their charcuterie cravings now that Thistle Meats has opened its doors downtown. They offer a delicious range of charcuterie like rillettes, headcheese, crépinettes and liverwurst. Stop in at lunchtime for one of their meatloaf sandwiches with caramelized carrots, fried onions, aioli and greens on ciabatta made a few doors down at Della Fattoria. They even offer tasty items like shepherd’s pie and rotisserie chickens for you to take home for dinner, all made with locally sourced ingredients.

The charcuterie menu at Old Major is equally impressive with standards like coppa, bresaola, finocchiona, calabrese and ‘nduja as well as Infinite Monkey Theorem Merlot Salami, made with Infinite Monkey Therom Merlot and black pepper with garlic grown in the Old Major garden.

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Insider Information: Chef Nathan Anda Red Apron Butchery, Washington DC & Fairfax, VA Chef Nathan Anda knows a thing or two about charcuterie, having traveled the world to study it. Luckily for the DC Metro area, he chose to bring his talents home to roost at Red Apron Butchery. Here are a few of his favorite things at his shop: For the Adventurer: Try the Tongue Bologna, a caraway flavored emulsified sausage garnished with pickled tongue, and be ready to have your mind blown. Sausage Party: The Spanish Chorizo is the top selling product at Red Apron. The spicy, smoky flavor comes from a unique combination of Aleppo pepper and smoked paprika. This chorizo is delicious on its own or when used for cooking. Sandwich: Try the meatball sandwich made with pork meatballs, tomato sauce, salsa verde and grand padano on a baguette. You’ll be happy you did.

Pro Tip: Using a mixer attachment to grind and stuff sausages tends to be a pain and yield disappointing results. Try using a manual sausage stuffer for a better outcome.

CRAFT Note:

Porkert is a small Czech company that makes some of the most well-made manual grinders and stuffers out there. You have to send away for it— they don’t import to the US since the market here became flooded with cheap, substandard grinders—but they happily sell them directly.


Slicin’Your Salami: Heartwood Forge Athens, GA Will Manning wants you to use his knives forever, so it is a good thing he puts a massive amount of care into their creation. He uses reclaimed wood and steel from old lumber mills in each one of his hand forged knives. The result is a knife that is elegant and a dream to wield. Try using the 6-inch chef’s knife for slicing; your chorizo won’t know what hit it. Two Great Blogs Talking About Charcuterie Hunter, Angler, Gardner, Cook Food writer and blogger Hank Shaw makes some seriously legit charcuterie at home. Check out his site where you can learn everything from how to make landjaeger to what the heck kabanosy is. http://honest-food.net

Ruhlman.com Michael Ruhlman wrote the book on charcuterie, literally. While his blog isn’t strictly devoted to charcuterie, you can learn how to make a traditional pork pie and cure your own corned beef. http:// blog.ruhlman.com

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Classin’ It Up: Fatted Calf Napa & San Francisco, CA In a very short time Taylor Botticher went from chef to rock star of the artisan meat world. He brought back what he learned from his time studying in Tuscany and built the bastion of meat, Fatted Calf. Taylor and his team offer a range of classes, from Whole Hog Butchery to the annual Halloween extravaganza Guts & Gore. Classes are $200 and include a meal and treats to take home.


Ginger Pig London, UK The Ginger Pig is a worldwide sensation and a monument to all that is right within the craft food world. Owners Fran Warde and Tim Wilson are there for every step of the journey their food takes, from their farm in North Yorkshire to the counter at each of their London based shops. Classes at The Ginger Pig include a hands-on butchery lesson and dinner, as well as the joint or sausages you will prepare in class to take home. The cost is ÂŁ135 per person.

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TOOLS OF THE TRADE By Colin Joliat Photography by Jessica Miller

Jackson Cannon Bar Knife – RMurphyKnives.com, $79.00 Who better to design a bar knife than a bartender? Jackson Cannon of The Hawthorne is an award-winning bartender/proprietor who created the knife MacGuyver would use if he were tending bar. Not only is the blade handcrafted from a single piece of steel with beautiful lines, it also has multiple functions behind the stick. It can take the place of three or four knives, proving neither form nor function need precede each other. Uses: • Cuts citrus easily and without dulling • Notch fruit and remove seeds with squared off blade tip • Slice citrus peels for perfect twists with little oil loss • Scrape counters with flush blade underside Live Edge Black Walnut Cutting Board – $34.95 kaufmann-mercantile.com Manhattan’s Kauffman Mercantile discovered these beautiful walnut boards made by Jessica Wickham and her team from downed trees in Upstate New York. Each board is unique, since it features a “live edge” on one side of the board, retaining the natural look of the tree it came from. Caring for your cutting board: • Clean with soap and water; never wash in the dishwasher • Disinfect the board using vinegar and baking soda • Rub the board down with fresh lemon to remove any smells • Treat occasionally with food grade mineral oil.

The Dead Rabbit Orinoco Bitters by Dr. Adam Elmegirab – TheDeadRabbitNYC.com, $25.00 To be one of the world’s best cocktail bars you need the world’s best ingredients. That’s why The Dead Rabbit created their own bitters with the help of Dr. Adam Elmegirab. Bitters are the element that can turn an ordinary drink into a masterful cocktail, and now you can take the bar’s secret ingredient home with you. Feeling ambitious? Try using them to recreate one of The Dead Rabbit’s signature cocktails. Adam Elmegirab recommends you try his bitters with “light rum or gin with coconut water, lime juice, a touch of cane sugar syrup and a few dashes of Orinoco Bitters.” Hawthorne Strainer – TheModernMixologist.com, $16.00 You don’t need a million dollar strainer to transfer drinks from a Boston Shaker to a cocktail glass. You need something that looks nice and gets the job done. Enter the Hawthorne Strainer from Tony Abou-Ganim’s Modern Mixologist. It’s simple yet elegant and works perfectly every time. The spring-loaded strainer easily holds back all ice and muddled fruit/herbs so you can pour one-handed from a shaker tin. It then cleans up with ease so you’re ready for the next drink.

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Hermetus Bottle Opener and Resealer – kaufmann-mercantile.com, $8.95

Professional Boston Shaker, Weighted – TheBostonShaker.com, $14.50

Craft beer loves its bombers. Not wanting to drink 20+ ounces of beer in one sitting doesn’t mean you shouldn’t open that bottle though, and this opener/resealer ensures that your next pour is as good as your first. Kaufmann Mercantile was created to sell Japanese handforged garden clippers, but since then they’ve sifted through the vast supply of other products and offer a select few of those that meet their high design, quality, suitability and ethical standards.

Aside from the spirits and the bartender, there may be no tool more important for crafting cocktails than the Boston Shaker. How big of a deal is it? Adam Lantheaume named his complete cocktail supply store after it. The shop is full of interesting, handmade tools for all levels of bartender, but Adam didn’t forgo the basics. This 16-ounce Boston Shaker includes a mixing glass and weighted shaker tin.

Vital stats and tips: • Highly portable at just 3.5 inches long • Works on 26 mm. caps (US standard) & 29 mm. (craft and large European) • Rinse and dry after each resealing to prevent beer residue buildup Bocote Hardwood Muddler – Gary’sCustomMuddlers.com, $50–70.00 It doesn’t take long to realize that these aren’t your average muddlers. They’re hand carved with focus on drawing out the natural beauty of the wood, ensuring that each is completely unique. Bocote is twice as hard as woods like cherry and oak, making it ideal for everything from delicate herbs to tough apples. The natural oil finish on the muddler actually hardens the wood further, preventing peeling, cracking or chipping. Caring for your muddler: • Hand wash only with soap and water • Never scrub with anything abrasive • Store in dry location • Reestablish sheen if needed with thin coat food grade lemon oil

Benefits of weighted shaker: • Better seal at point of contact • Stir one-handed with less risk of tin tipping. • Excellent for flair bartending Onyx 18/8 Stainless Steel Ice Cube Tray – TheBostonShaker.com, $32.00 This beautiful product from Onyx is a throwback to the ‘40s and ‘50s when stainless steel trays were all the rage. The two-part design makes it easy to clean, and the lever to release the cubes is simple and borderline fun. A minute or two on the counter and few seconds of running water on the bottom help the cubes pop out effortlessly. Ice trays are typically a means to an end, but this old-school Onyx steel tray is a work of art in itself. Advantages of stainless steel ice trays: • Won’t crack or break from twisting out cubes • Two part design is easy to clean thoroughly • Doesn’t impart flavor in ice • BPA and toxin-free

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Custom Ice Crusher/Wood Mallet – $45.00 When it comes to crushing ice, Jeremy Howes does it in style. He studied Japanese woodworking and is putting that knowledge to use in his beautiful, handmade-to-order wooden mallets. They’re crafted from Brazilian ipe and white maple heartwood, making them incredibly dense at the point of contact to ensure they’ll last for years. Howes also wants our environment to last, which is why he plants and cares for one tree for every twenty mallets sold. Use your mallet to: • Crush ice using your new Lewis Bag • Flatten pork or chicken cutlets for schnitzel or other dishes • Pretend you are Thor while no one is looking © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.

TAG Lewis Bag – TheModernMixologist.com, $15.00 Bartenders aren’t slamming plastic bags of ice in the parking lot like the rest of us, but that doesn’t mean they need a fancy way of downsizing the ice to make a Julep. Enter the Lewis Bag. Fill it with ice and hammer away until you have perfectly crushed ice. It’s just that simple. The TAG Lewis Bag comes from world-renowned former bartender turned consultant and author, Tony Abou-Ganim. His signature branded line of Modern Mixologist bar tools are used by pros and amateurs alike.


Shae Whitney spent her childhood roaming the prairie lands of Parker, Colorado. There, her passion for the natural world flourished, ultimately shaping the path that would lead her to found the popular bitters company DRAM Apothecary. Her love of nature inspired her to pursue studies at the notably liberal Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington. She focused her studies on the causes of climate change and environmental degradation, and spent the summers studying herbalism and botany. This allowed her to work outdoors, which she knew was an integral part of the life she was looking for. During her time in Olympia Shae began working at a local bar called The Mark, learning the trade from Kurt Cobain’s sister, Kim. She also learned about her own taste and formed ideas about how bitters and other bar ingredients should be made: devoid of dyes, synthetic flavors or artificial sweeteners. Thus the idea for DRAM was born. Shae began by using a rental kitchen, but ultimately decided that DRAM needed a home. One might expect to find a place like DRAM in the Park Slope neighborhood of Brooklyn or on Hawthorne Street in Portland, Oregon. Silver Plume may not seem like the natural choice for a business like DRAM, but for Shae, the Colorado town was a good fit, nestled in the mountains in an easy juxtaposition to many of the herbs that she uses. The response from the residents of tiny Silver Plume was initially one of confusion. A dive bar culture and remote location gave Silver Plume limited exposure to the changes in beverage culture. Slow-

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ly but surely, the denizens of Silver Plume decided that DRAM is a positive addition to their tiny Colorado mountain town. Drinkers and industry folk alike love DRAM Apothecary. In Shae’s words it is because, “we’re making bitters the way they used to be made, using wild herbs and no sweeteners, flavorings or dyes. For this reason our bitters may also be employed for their healing benefits; you don’t have to be a drinker to love them.” Shae began DRAM with the goal of having a career that would get her outside, and the hope that it would pay the bills. What’s next from DRAM Apothecary? Expansion. Customers come to Silver Plume specifically to have the DRAM experience and find that they don’t want to leave. Shae hopes to invest in cabins or even a lodge to round out the customer experience. With this expansion will come the space and opportunity for Shae to bring more delicious products to the market. I, for one, will be watching to see what comes next.


MAKERS AND SHAKERS: Shae Whitney, DRAM Apothecary By Erin Jimcosky Images courtesy of Shae Whitney


IN THE KITCHEN WITH DRAM APOTHECARY


What do you like about cooking with bitters? I think it’s a great horizon that has yet to be fully explored and embraced. I keep a bottle of each flavor in my home bar, as well as my spice rack and I add them to basically everything. They’re wonderful in baked goods, frostings, soups, sauces. I use them a lot to deglaze a pan after sautéing meats or veggies. I tell my customers to think of them like salt and pepper, or vanilla extract. Add a little bit at first and if you like what you taste then be a bit more liberal. We have people bring us morsels of test recipes they’ve made with our bitters: a cupcake, a cocktail in a mason jar, sweet potato stew with citrus bitters. It’s quite flattering. What are some of your favorite ways to use bitters in the kitchen?
 I just bought a Vitamix, and I’ve been adding bitters to almost everything I blend. This morning I made some fresh almond milk and added some Hair Of The Dog Bitters, which have strong flavors of cinnamon, ginger and fennel. Took my morning oatmeal to a new level! DRAM Apothecary Chili 2 onions, diced 2 sticks celery, diced 1 garlic clove, minced 1 Tbsp. butter 1 bottle stout 16 oz. beef or veggie broth 16 oz. can diced tomatoes 8 oz. tomato paste 16 oz. can black beans 16 oz. can kidney beans 16 oz. can white beans 1 Tbsp. ground cumin 1 Tbsp. ground marjoram 1 Tbsp. DRAM Hair Of The Dog Aromatic Bitters pinch smoked dried red pepper flakes salt and pepper, to taste

Melt the butter in a large soup pot over medium heat and add the diced onion, celery and garlic. Cook until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add all other ingredients; stir well to dissolve the tomato paste. Cook for about on hour on medium before serving, or place chili into a crock-pot on low and let it simmer away all day. Wild Mountain Sage Cornbread 1 ¼ c. coarse yellow cornmeal ¾ c. all-purpose flour ¼ c. sugar 2 Tbsp. fresh sage leaves, chopped 2 Tbsp. fresh rosemary, chopped 2 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. coarse salt ½ tsp. baking soda 8 Tbsp. butter, divided + 1 Tbsp. for the skillet ¼ c. whole milk 1 c. buttermilk 2 large eggs ¼ c. honey 2 tsp. DRAM Wild Mountain Sage Bitters Instructions: Preheat oven to 425°F. Heat a 10-inch castiron skillet in oven until hot, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together cornmeal, flour, sugar, sage, rosamary, baking powder, salt and baking soda. Melt the butter, and whisk together with milk, buttermilk, eggs, honey and bitters. Whisk milk mixture into cornmeal mixture until just combined. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F. Remove skillet from oven, add remaining tablespoon butter, and swirl to coat. Pour in batter, and bake until cornbread is golden, 20 to 23 minutes. You will know it’s ready when a fork comes out clean when stuck in the middle. Let cool at least 30 minutes before cutting into wedges. Serve warm or at room temperature with ample amounts of butter and honey on the side.

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Winemaker Recommendations By Shauna Rosenblum Images courtesy of Bodkin Wines, Blacksmith Cellars, Lusu Cellars, and La Tapatia Self-described “cellar rat” Shauna Rosenblum grew up in the cellar at Rosenblum Cellars, but always had her heart set on making art. She received an undergraduate scholarship to CCAC and then a master’s degree at SFAI. It was during her chemistry stint that she had her light bulb moment. “I was blending glazes together when I had this feeling of familiarity. I realized it was exactly the same processes as blending wine! All of a sudden my perspective changed. I saw winemaking as an art. It was through ceramics—something I fell in love with on my own—that I fell in love with my family’s winemaking tradition.” It was auspicious timing as well, because her family had just sold Rosenblum Cellars, and she had planned to start helping her dad at his new winery, Rock Wall. He was quite busy traveling, and before Shauna knew it, she had made the entire 2008 vintage by herself. “I still don’t know if he stayed away on purpose, but whatever it was, I was in love with ‘my babies.’ I sang Adele to my barrels, I read them poetry on Valentine’s Day, and I said good morning to each barrel every morning and quite often found myself hugging my barrels,” she confesses. As she embarks on her seventh vintage as winemaker, she admits: “I am still so in love with winemaking, and I find new reasons to be inspired all the time.” The reigning queen of East Bay urban winemaking scene cranks out killer wines from Rock Wall’s airplane hangar-turned-winemaking facility in Alameda, CA. Check out these prime summer picks from a few of her favorite micro-producers:

Bodkin Wines Chris Christensen of Bodkin wines nails it again with the 2013 vintage. The 2013 Sparkling Blanc de Sauvignon Blanc is delicious and refreshing with light nuances of peach and pink grapefruit, and finishes nice and dry. If you’re looking for something a little different, check out his offering of bone-dry muscat canelli, which is everything you might expect from a traditional Muscat without that cloying viscosity. If it’s sweet biz that floats your boat, he picked his late harvest sauvignon blanc at 38 brix! It’s reminiscent of an affordable Chateau d’ Yquem. Dude is a rockstar, and his wines follow suit. Bodkinwines.com Blacksmith Cellars Matt Smith’s Blacksmith Cellars has seen much success over the past decade, and is well beyond ‘micro-winery’ size. Now, he has some super fun new projects in the mix that are micro-sized. For


Matt’s new keg cider project he is fermenting rare apple strains like Black Arkansas, Winter Banana, and Sierra Beauty and aging them in chardonnay barrels. The cider only comes in a keg—poor you, you might have to buy five gallons. He is also teaming up with his brother Dave Smith, who is a distiller at St. George Spirits, and together they are making a cabernet sauvignon that is aged in bourbon barrels. It’s called Rickhouse Red and it’s out of bounds with layers of studly flavors. Check it out. Pure magic. Blacksmithcellars.com Lusu Cellars

La Tapatia My girl Dalia Ceja is doing her winemaking family proud, producing chardonnay and pinot noir with her own new brand, La Tapatia. The name is an endearing one for the fair-skinned women of Jalisco with those ojos tapatias, or fiery eyes. Dalia does a beautiful job of balancing the sexy oak nuances with the standout, juicy Carneros fruit. Aromas of dulce de leche and ripe apple give way to full flavors of butter-poached pear and a light mango finish. It’s great wine, and I bet the winemaker, who is also a chef with more than 100 YouTube cooking videos, has a great food pairing to go with it. Keep up with her blog at www.olereport.com. Nakedwines.com

David Teixeira is owner/winemaker of Lusu Cellars in Berkeley, CA. David is using oldschool practices and “Portuguese ingenuity” (as he puts it) to craft some seriously interesting wines. His 2011 pinot grigio is orange like a glowing sunset, due to fermentation with skin contact, and tastes like the most perfect strawberry lemonade you’ve ever had with a beautifully viscous mouth feel and a dry finish. His 2010 El Dorado Zinfandel is so juicy and jammy, it’s almost like biting into a ripe berry pie. Fan-friggin-tastic. Cheers to old school technique and modern passion. His tasting room is open Saturdays, or if you need it now (!!!), check out the website. Go David. Lusucellars.com © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


N O R E W E BR BREWER ACTION

Q&A with Mikkel Borg Bjergsø by Sam Cruz

You’re probably thinking, “Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, who the hell is that!? . . . OH! Mikkeller . . . yeah, I know who that is. I think.” Mikkel Borg Bjergsø—or Mikkeller, as you likely know him—has one of the most exciting stories in the world of craft brewing today. Mostly known for his innovative and self-proclaimed “very un-Danish” approach to contract brewing known as “gypsy brewing,” the Danish brewer has produced a countlessly large portfolio of inventive beers, which are produced at any number of breweries around the globe. Inspired by Danish furniture designer Verner Panton, Mikkeller is the “enfant terrible” of Danish beer, churning out brews that counter the traditional megalith Carlsberg Brewery and boasting distribution in 40 different countries. We caught up with Mikkel as he was returning from Sweden and headed off to a much-needed vacation. CRAFT by UMH: Are you a brewer, or a brand? Mikkel: Mikkeller is a brand. We are not brewers; we are people who love beer and love changing the beer world. I don’t particularly enjoy being in a brewery, but I love everything around it. CRAFT: How do you feel about your concept of gypsy brewing being emulated by other brewers/brands out there? Do you feel it is having an impact on the way craft beer is perceived and how gypsy brewing is perceived? Mikkel: If the end result is good, it does not matter how you get to it. If other people want to make good beer while not having a brewery, I am fine with that. I actually do understand quite well why they would want to avoid it. The whole gypsy brewing concept is one of the biggest things that has happened to beer lately. CRAFT: What has been the single most important moment in Mikkeller history? Why? Mikkel: Pouring coffee in our Oatmeal Stout as home brewers. That was the beginning of © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.

Beer Geek Breakfast & Mikkeller. CRAFT: You have worked with many of the globe’s best brewers. Can you tell me which you like working with the best? Is there any brewer out there that you haven’t worked with, but would like to? Mikkel: I like working with them all.We have a very close relationship with the guys from Three Floyds and it’s always great collaborating with them. I learn from every brewer I work with and obviously I’ve learned a lot from Three Floyds. In my opinion, they are still number one in the world when it comes to hoppy beers. I am sure Todd from Surly and I will someday collaborate, as we are good friends. Also, I have always wanted to brew with Kris from De Dolle. It might never happen, but if it does I will retire! CRAFT: Who made the beer closest to your intention (both in the USA and globally)? Mikkel: Mike at Lervig in Norway who brews our Beer Geek series. He nails pretty much everything close to perfect. CRAFT: Speaking of brewers, what are your thoughts on Goose Island? Love them or


hate them after the AB/InBev buyout? Mikkel: I like some of their beers and some not so much. At first I thought, “Oh NO! Another brewery that will go down in quality and eventually just be like the big guys.” I have not tasted many beers from them lately, but I still really like their BA Impy Stout. CRAFT: So, is it about the beer or who owns the company? Mikkel: When all comes to all, it’s about the beer, but obviously I prefer honest people to spit out the good beers. AB/inBev isn’t very honest with all they do, but at least they make an honest impy stout! CRAFT: You’ve worked tirelessly to bring craft beer to an amazing level in Denmark. Even with the foreboding and ominous beast brewer Carlsberg, you have brought the reputation of Copenhagen as a craft beer mecca to the forefront. Would you ever consider an offer from Carlsberg to bring the Mikkeller brand into its portfolio? Mikkel: No way! I like to have 100% control with all I do. This would not be possible if some big guy was involved. CRAFT: While on the topic of portfolios, Mikkeller has a massive portfolio of beers and we are seeing some on a regular basis. Will you ever reduce the size of your portfolio to focus in on core brands? Mikkel: Nah . . . Why would I stop having fun with creating new beers? This is what I like and work for. CRAFT: Your branding art is very unique; I am a huge fan of Keith Shore’s work. Can you tell us the idea behind the shift to all of Keith Shore’s art? Mikkel: He is unique. We met at a beer event in Philly, though he had mailed me beforehand. We chatted. Later on I asked him to do a label for a collaboration we did with BrewDog, and I loved it. CRAFT: It’s pretty obvious you are expanding the number of bars in the Mikkeller fleet, but what about a brewery? Any plans to open a brewery in the future? Mikkel: Not a production brewery. It is not my thing. I love to create new beers and concepts and then move on to the next. I am sure we will have a brewpub or more in the future, though.

CRAFT: So I get this question all the time, and I think every brewer should answer this: What advice would you give to someone trying to get into the business as you did? In other words, would you recommend a start-up to take the same path Mikkeller has? Mikkel: Of course I would. It is great fun, but also a lot of work. Making beer and selling it is like running any other business. It is not a 9-5 job; it’s a full time investment. Do it! Most importantly, do not compromise! If you do everything 100% to your ability, you will be good. CRAFT: Cori (founder of CRAFT by Under My Host) has asked all contributors this question, and I think it’s a conversation I have with colleagues on a regular basis: What is craft? What does craft mean to you? Mikkel: I believe it means “well made.” To me, craft does not refer to size or method to get to something, but the end result. McDonald’s can make craft if they want to, but they don’t. CRAFT: What’s up next for Mikkeller? We see rumblings on social media of a pop-up bar in Berlin. Is this a sign of the next bar? Anyone that read the most recent BrewDog offering document for investors saw inferences to some BrewDog/Mikkeller partnerships. Is there anything to this? C’mon man, the world wants to know! Mikkel: Many plans! We are close to finalizing a deal for something that will be one of the most talked about things in the beer world next year. Trust me. We also want to do beer bars in Stockholm, London, Berlin and many other places. And maybe something completely different. *** Whoever or whatever Mikkeller/Mikkel Borg Bjergsø is, he is changing the way the beer world works and he is doing it in a most excellent way. Hats off to Danish furniture! Thanks for the amazing beer!

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Why Craft? by Dave Pickerell Senior Consultant Oak View Spirits


In the beverage world, a careful mix of artistry and science is required to make great tasting products. Art is expressed when making distilled spirits regardless of the size or capacity of the distillery. However, there is confusion—and an important distinction—between the terms “artisan” and “craft” when it comes to distilled spirits. While the word “craft” may connote ideas of artisans and artistry, in the world of distilled spirits it boils down to a matter of size. Both the American Distilling Institute and the American Craft Distillers’ Association define a craft distillery in part as one that sells less than about 50,000 cases per year. By comparison, it is not unusual for a large-scale distillery to sell well over 1,000,000 cases of product per year. Thus “craft” is generally used to distinguish these smaller distilleries. Given the substantial difference in size between a large producer and a “craft” producer, perhaps the word craft is inappropriate and “boutique” or “cottage” distiller might be a more precise term.

er proof, low quality spirit that comes off the batch still at the beginning of the run while tails are the low proof, low quality product that comes off at the end of a run. Due to throughput requirements, most large scale distilleries utilize continuous stills which do not permit the removal of heads or tails. The craft distiller may use the heads and tails cuts not just to reduce impurities, but also to make fine adjustments in composition of the distillate based on maturation plans. Greater age means higher levels of tails, which may be used to add more complexity to the taste profile. Threshold of innovation

Cottage or craft, a small distiller enjoys a number of substantial advantages over the larger producers. These advantages can result in better taste, unique and interesting new flavors, marvelous expressions of terroir, and support of the Locavore movement that is just not possible for a large-scale distillery. Here are a few of the crucial perks that craft distilling affords. Heads and tails cuts Typically, craft distillers use batch distillation systems—either pot or column and kettle stills. In order to properly operate a batch still, the distiller needs to take heads and tails cuts. Heads are the high-

The threshold of innovation is much lower at the craft level. Large distilling companies rigorously manage innovation; typically, to even begin experimentation, a large company must be assured that the first year sales of the contemplated product will exceed 50,000 cases or more. At the craft level, there essentially is no threshold. An extra hundred cases per year of sales makes a nice holiday bonus. In fact, the entire craft spirits industry thrives on innovation. Given the lack of economy of scale, it is an absolutely non-starting position for a craft distiller to say, “My product tastes just like Maker’s Mark and is only $15 more per bottle.” Who would buy that? Craft distillers must make their OWN mark.

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When the craft brewing business started, the large-scale brewers in the United States were fairly stuck in the Pilsner and light Pilsner game. This left a large position for the craft brewers to occupy. No such advantage exists in the craft spirits world. The large-scale distilleries are making good, tasty products across the spectrum; making it even harder for the craft distiller to carve out a niche of their own. Terroir It is much easier to express terroir at the craft level. Essentially all of the large whiskey distilleries in the United States are located in a square from Louisville to Cincinnati on the north end and extending to the southern Tennessee state line. As such, the climate, geography and grain sources for the larger distilleries are all very similar. This makes terroir essentially a non-issue as locality differences are difficult, if not impossible, to detect. The sheer volume of grain required to supply a large distillery usually necessitates commodity purchase of grain. On the other hand, there are American craft distilleries making whiskey from border to border and coast to coast. Many of these craft distilleries use locally grown grains, and some even grow their own. At Hillrock Estate Distillery, for instance, terroir is expressed clearly in the form of clove and cinnamon in every drop of whiskey they make. It is also easier for a craft distiller to take positions on issues like non-GMO and/or organically grown grains due to the lower volume of quality grains of those types that is available. Large distilleries are also frequently hampered in the purchase of botanicals, which pop up in everything from flavored

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vodka to gin. The sheer volume of botanicals required generally limits their ability to express terroir to its fullest extent. At the craft level, distillers are capable of sourcing locally grown botanicals. They are also able to take larger risks with non-traditional botanicals in order to achieve the fullest sense of terroir. A great example of this is St. George Distillery in California and their Gin “Terroir” which uses Douglas fir, California bay laurel and coastal sage in its botanical mix. Locavore support Support of the Locavore movement is much easier at the craft level. Craft distillers generally start out selling in their own back yard, which plays extremely well with locavores. Additionally, it is much less complicated to grow your own grain or source local ingredients when you are a small producer. The larger a distillery gets, the wider the net must be cast to gather the required ingredients to the point where major ingredients are usually commodity sourced. With the exception of a few iconic places (i.e., Islay, Cognac), if a large distiller wants to use local ingredients, it is usually limited to one or two significant but small volume-flavoring agents (Rangpur lime in Tanqueray Rangpur, for instance). With sales volume increases come wider distribution requirements and a concomitant decrease in locavore appeal. It’s easier to turn a johnboat than an aircraft carrier Large distillery operations tend to have large administrative overheads. As such, decisions are more carefully taken. Teams from innovation, marketing, sales, legal, production and management all need to


have their say before a new product can be launched, not to mention consumer focus groups and distributor partner meetings. Conversely, small distillers tend to be one- or two-person operations, so decisions can be taken at an incredibly faster rate than at a large distillery. As a result, the craft distiller is capable of nimble changes in production to react to new trends or consumer demand for a particular product. Corsair Artisan Distillery has demonstrated the capability of launching more than 30 new whiskey products in a single year. Smaller distilleries can also reach niche markets more easily. One of the best examples of a niche whiskey producer is Sons of Liberty Spirits Company in Rhode Island, which makes idiosyncratic American malt whiskies from traditional beer recipes. These markets can be lucrative at the craft level without yielding enough sales potential for a larger distillery to even be interested.


CELEBRATE CRAFT: INAUGURAL COCKTAILS

Cocktails styled by Julian Goglia Photography courtesy of Jessica Miller


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CRAFT is more than a magazine; it is a celebration of hard work and great ideas. We want to champion the artisans of craft and sing their praises to the sky. In that spirit, we have asked some of our favorite bartenders to help us celebrate. Bartenders Greg Best, Christopher James, Steve Schneider, Max Messier, Elizabeth Powell, Adam Seger, and Jason Kosmas each created a celebratory cocktail and shared thoughts on why craft ingredients are important to them. More often than not, a cocktail is not simply a conglomerate of ingredients but a creation of something greater than the sum of its parts. With these recipes, the bartenders rise to the occasion, creating a drink that embodies their idea of what craft is supposed to be. We hope that each creation inspires you to drink local, stay thirsty, and harness a celebration of craft in each and every glass. Cheers!

COCKTAIL LINEUP: Greg Best – Peaks and Waves Christopher James – The Empire State Sour Steve Schneider – Chambermaid Max Messier – Bombay The Hard Way Elizabeth Powell – 13 Bars Adam Seger – Maple Margarita Jason Kosmas – Attack of the Killer B’s

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Greg Best

Itinerant Barman, Atlanta, GA

Peaks and Waves Barman Greg Best, of Holeman & Finch fame, deserves the lion’s share of credit for kicking off the craft cocktail movement in Atlanta. Before Greg and his colleagues came around, drinks in Atlanta, like most places, were dull and uninspired. Over the years he has focused on creative, quality cocktails while educating many of Atlanta’s bartenders. Greg brings the spirit he helped instill in the Atlanta scene to his celebratory cocktail Peaks and Waves. “In my mind, CRAFT is meant to stimulate and excite people while exposing them to the hidden secrets of an often confusing world. I wanted to replicate this by creating a fun and easy drink that showcases some of those secrets. This drink was created to pay respect to a few of my friends who’ve been involved in the craft movement. A longstyle drink, this warm weather sipper works equally well relaxing in a mountain retreat, or chomping down oysters on the coastline.” Peaks and Waves 1 1/2 oz. High West Distillery’s Double Rye (or your favorite craft rye) 3/4 oz. Breckenridge Bitters 1/4 oz. amontillado sherry 1/4 oz. fresh lemon juice 1 bar spoon honey syrup (see Attack of the Killer B’s recipe for instructions) 3 3/4 oz. Jack Rudy Cocktail Co. tonic* Add the rye, bitters, sherry, honey and lemon to your shaker with ice and shake vigorously. Strain contents over fresh ice into a tall glass. Garnish with a long swath of lemon peel and a sprig of fresh spearmint. Jack Rudy Cocktail Co. tonic: Prepare by combining 1/2 oz. tonic syrup with with 3 1/4 oz. cold sparkling water..

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Christopher James

The Ryland Inn, Whitehouse Station, NJ

The Empire State Sour Christopher has won numerous competitions and it is easy to see why. His work is extremely refined with unexpected elements and twists. Not what one might expect outside of the city, eh? Christopher and bartenders like him are exactly the reason cocktail lovers should take some time to look beyond the city. You can start here with his recipe for The Empire State Sour and see what he brings to the table. “I wanted to do a twist on a locally created drink and make the ingredients as local as possible. My Empire State Sour is a twist on the iconic modern classic, the New York Sour, which was created at Schiller’s Liquor Bar right here in NYC. My version uses McKenzie Rye from the Finger Lakes and Sorel from Brooklyn, which replaces the red wine float. I really love the dry spiciness of the McKenzie Rye and the complexity of the Sorel. This drink is a perfect example of how to make few ingredients sing in a cocktail. Jack from Brooklyn still bottles the Sorel by hand. He was making the same stuff in his kitchen for his family over the holidays five years ago. That, in my opinion, embodies craft.” The Empire State Sour 2 oz. Finger Lakes Distilling’s McKenzie Rye (or your favorite craft rye) 3/4 oz. simple syrup 3/4 oz. fresh lemon juice 1/2 oz. Jack From Brooklyn’s Sorel liqueur Shake the first 3 ingredients briefly with ice, then strain the liquid over crushed ice in a bucket glass. Swizzle until frost forms on the glass. Float Sorel on top and crown with more crushed ice. Garnish with a dehydrated-candied lemon chip. Serve with straws.

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Steve Schneider

Employees Only, New York, NY

Chambermaid Steve Schneider is a cocktail soldier. He survived the rigors of life at Employees Only, and managed to become one of their principal bartenders. His experience was documented in the film Hey Bartender, a film focused on the changing face of the cocktail industry. Steve created this Chambermaid cocktail using Tequila Cabeza, one of the spirits made by his mentors Jason Kosmas and Dushan Zaric, and this is what he had to say: “Tequila Cabeza, along with the three other spirits in The 86 Co.’s portfolio, are created by a handful of experienced and legendary bartenders. It’s a true example of a group of men who are following their dreams.” Chambermaid 1 1/2 oz. The 86 Co.’s Tequila Cabeza (or your favorite craft tequila) 1/2 oz. jalapeño-infused green Chartreuse* 1 oz. fresh lime juice 1/2 oz. simple syrup 1/2 oz. pineapple juice 1 sprig of mint 3 cucumber slices, plus more to garnish In a shaker, muddle the cucumber and mint before adding in the remaining ingredients. Add ice, shake and fine strain over fresh ice in a rocks glass. Garnish with a cucumber slice. *Jalapeño-infused Chartreuse: Empty 8 oz. of green Chartreuse from a full bottle and cook with 3 jalapeños, sliced. Bring to a boil, let cool and strain back into the original bottle. Note: If you’d like to skip the infusion, muddle 1 jalapeño slice in the cocktail à la minute. Although my favorite expression of this versatile drink is made with Tequila Cabeza, this cocktail can also be made with Ford’s Gin, Aylesbury Duck Vodka, Caña Brava Rum or Mezcal and still be tasty. Try it out for yourself. *For a craft alternative to Chartreuse try Three Pins Alpine Herbal Liqueur from Leopold Brothers, a small batch distillery out of Denver, Co.

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Max Messier

Consultant, New Orleans, LA

Bombay The Hard Way Max is rock and rock! He is a true a renaissance man of the industry who creates tight recipes and has worked just about every position imaginable. These days he can be found doing consulting for cocktail and spirits in New Orleans. He created the cocktail Bombay The Hard Way for an Armagnac-infused celebration of craft. “A few years back, I had a chance to taste a whole range of Armagnac and learned all about the differences with Cognac and Armagnac with regards to types of grapes, terroir, etc. Armagnac was the first distilled spirit in France and it is recognized as an ‘undiluted’ spirit with colorings and additives. I fell in love with Armagnac and found it to be a challenging and rewarding spirit for cocktail builds . . . My cocktail is a DIY endeavor that anybody from a cocktailian to the home enthusiast can duplicate and enjoy at work or at home. It’s an ambitious take on a classic Rum Punch with influences from France, The Caribbean and India worked up so sexy into a lovely tippler.” Bombay The Hard Way 1 1/2 oz. Osocalis Rare Alambic Brandy (or French style craft brandy) 3/4 oz. Jack From Brooklyn’s Sorel liqueur 1/2 oz. garam masala syrup (recipe below) 1/2 oz. fresh lemon juice Add all ingredients to cocktail tin. Shake vigorously for 10 seconds. Strain over fresh ice in an Old Fashioned glass. Garnish with an expressed lemon twist. Garam Masala Syrup 1 1/2 c. hot water 1 1/2 c. white sugar 2 Tbsp. garam masala Bring water to boil. Add sugar and garam masala. Remove from heat, cover and let steep for 30 minutes. Strain the syrup through cheesecloth, bottle, and store in the refrigerator for a maximum of 3 weeks.

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Elizabeth Powell Tallulah’s, Seattle, WA

13 Bars Badass lady bartender and veteran Elizabeth Powell brings a playful and entirely fresh approach to the bar. She isn’t afraid to think outside the box, which is terrific for the drinking public of Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood where Liberty Bar is located. She created a cocktail that embodies that sentiment here with a few ingredients we love like extinct acid phosphate and Privateer Rum. Check out what she had to say about it: “I am a fan of Maggie over at Privateer and think that her rums are wonderful, very complex and flavorful, so I was excited to have the opportunity to work with her rum. This cocktail’s name, 13 Bars, is a reference to Privateer’s logo, which has 13 stripes. Extinct acid phosphate is something that I was fascinated by the first time I stumbled across it back in Boston. I have always enjoyed using acid phosphate to modify drinks without adding too much citrus and share it with anyone who is interested.” 13 Bars 1 1/2 oz. Privateer’s Silver Reserve Rum (or your favorite craft rum) 1 oz. blueberry shrub (recipe below) 1/2 oz. lemon juice 1/4 oz. simple syrup 2 dashes extinct acid phosphate (optional)* Bundaberg ginger beer Shake all ingredients except ginger beer with ice and strain into a Collins glass. Add ice and top with ginger beer, stirring lightly to incorporate. Garnish with a metal straw, lemon wheel and blueberries.

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Blueberry Shrub 1 pint blueberries 1 c. sugar 1 c. white balsamic vinegar Lightly crush the blueberries with a muddler and stir in the sugar. Allow the berries to sit on the counter for a while so the juices run, about 2–4 hours. Add in the white balsamic vinegar and stir. Let it sit, occasionally stirring, until the sugar mixture is a clean purple with no sugar solids. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh strainer. Taste the mixture after process and adjust sweetness if necessary by adding simple syrup or more vinegar.

*Art of Drink Acid Phosphate – TheArtofDrink.com, $12.99 The combination of science and drinking has never been more popular, the value of which Darcy O’Neil has been preaching for years. His experimental curiosity and culinary cravings eventually led him to create Art of Drink to share his newfound knowledge. There he touts the wonders of long-forgotten Acid Phosphate, saying its tongue tingling sensation and dry tart flavor are what make Acid Phosphate distinct from other soda acids like citric acid.


Adam Seger Co-Founder Rare Botanical Bitters, Chicago, IL

Maple Margarita Adam is extremely creative behind the bar and his belief that what grows together, goes together is a philosophy that is catching ground in the culinary world. He has brought his expertise to Michelin star restaurants such as The French Laundry and Chez Julien. These days he is most often found lopping the necks off of champagne bottles with a golf club or hoarding truffles to make his famous truffle bitters with business partner, Rodrick Markus. “The essence of craft is genuinely caring both about the raw ingredients and the handmade process of combining them. Craft can be simple, but can never be careless. My Maple Margarita is a simple sour recipe, but when the citrus is properly cared for, the sweetener is exceptional and when you use a tequila with integrity, you create craft magic.” Maple Margarita 2 oz. Tequila Ocho Reposado (or your favorite craft tequila) 1 oz. pure, Grade B maple syrup (We used Rock Maple Mountain’s Snow Shoe Pond Syrup) 1 heavy lime ice Maldon salt Roll a heavy, room temperature lime back and forth against a counter to separate the juice from the bitter pulp. If it is cold, roll until it feels room temperature. A heavy lime is fresh and full of juice. A light lime is old and dehydrated. A cold lime is not happy and will yield very little sweet juice. Wipe a lime against one side of a rocks glass or chilled Martini glass. Dip the lime-moistened side in Maldon salt so the guest has the option to enjoy or not enjoy the salt. Set the prepared glasses aside. Cut the lime in half and squeeze it into a pint glass (about an ounce per lime). Add the same amount of maple syrup as lime juice (about an ounce). Do not use Grade A maple syrup as it has much less minerals and flavor than Grade B. Add the same amount of tequila as the total volume of the “maple sour” mix you just made (about 2 ounces). Shake the liquid with ice until the metal shaker is cold. Strain into your ice-filled rocks glass or chilled martini glass. Garnish with a lime wheel. For a Maple Bianco Sour, do all the same, but substitute the tequila for American Craft White Whiskey. © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


Jason Kosmas

Co-Founder The 86 Co.

Attack of the Killer B’s If Dale Degroff is the daddy of the craft cocktail movement, Jason Kosmas and co-founder Dushan Zaric of Employees Only in Manhattan are his surrogate sons. Dale gave the guys a strong classic cocktail foundation, but they ran with it and made it their own. These days Jason is busy with his spirits company, The 86 Co., making some of the hottest spirits on the market. His cocktail Attack of the Killer B’s is named for an Anthrax song and is a play on the classic Bees Knees cocktail. Here is what he had to say about it: “A well-crafted cocktail should have a beginning, middle, and end. It should be stunning to look at and be an experience of flavors. Ultimately, the reason why think this drink embodies craft is because it shows restraint in the ingredients and shows not only an understanding of them but also an appreciation. Each ingredient is allowed to shine in the drink while contributing to a greater overall experience.” Attack of the Killer B’s 2 oz. The 86 Co.’s Fords Gin (or your favorite craft gin) 3/4 oz. raw honey syrup* 1 oz. lemon juice 1 egg white 3 dashes orange-tea bitters (recipe below) for garnish Pour gin, honey, lemon juice and egg white into a cocktail shaker. Add large cold ice and shake vigorously. Strain the liquid into a chilled cocktail coup and garnish ornately with orange-tea bitters. *Raw honey syrup: Combine equal parts raw honey and warm water in a container raw honey and warm water in a container and keep stirring until all honey is dissolved. It is important that the water is not so hot as to cook the raw honey. Orange-Tea Bitters 1 c. loose black oolong tea leaves 1 bottle Regan’s orange bitters 1/2 oz. simple syrup Place oolong tea leaves in a small container or jar. Cover with Regan’s orange bitters and simple syrup. Cover and allow it to infuse for 2 days. Strain and pour back into bitters bottle.

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Beer Cocktails: The Beer Wench By Erin Jimcosky Images courtesy of Ashley Routson


Ashley V. Routson, known as “The Beer Wench,” has a list of accomplishments as long as your arm. She is a contributor for CraftBeer.com, has her own namesake beer Saison du Wench, and is involved in beer education. She was instrumental in bringing the Bacon and Beer Festival to San Francisco and was even the Special Committee Chair of the Berkley Humane Society. Most recently, she got her first book contract for “The Beer Wench’s Guide to Beer” which is due out in spring 2015. What you may not know is that Ashley has also been an innovator and force behind the beer cocktail trend. She was inspired to delve into the world of beer cocktails by the likes of writer and bartender Jacob Grier, and writer/blogger Stephen Beaumont. What she found was an exciting new realm where beer and cocktails collide, sometimes for the better of humanity, sometimes not. Ashley brought that interest to her job as the Director of Awesomeness at Bison Brewing and now works with bartenders to bring beer into the cocktail world in a refined, delicious way. “Smoky and bitter with a hint of heat and slight tartness, Smokin’ Hops is both warming and refreshing,” says Ashley. “It will warm you up in the winter, and add a little kick to your routine in the summer. This cocktail is a perfect match for anything off the grill, especially smoked meats. And beware, this drink will bite you.”

Tips From the Wench Ashley had some pretty horrible cocktails before she got the technique down. Here are a few tricks she learned along the way. • Look to traditional cocktails with potential ingredients to replace like soda or sparkling. • Don’t bastardize the spirits by covering them up. Do some research on complimentary flavor profiles. Tequila and mezcal work with bitter and citrusy brews like an IPA, while bourbon and rum work well with darker beers. • Try the flip technique. According to some, the frothy fizzy flip was originally made with beer, so it lends itself really well for beer cocktails.

Smokin’ Hops 1 oz. mezcal 1 oz. lemon juice ¼ oz. minced Serrano chilies ½ oz. agave nectar 3 oz. West Coast IPA Instructions In a shaker glass, muddle the Serrano chilies with the simple syrup. Add mezcal, lemon juice and ice. Shake and strain into a Collins glass over ice. Top with IPA. Garnish with lemon peel.

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Cookbook Field Test By Colin Joliat

Photography by Jeff Hage

Dragon’s Smoked Trout Serves 8-10 4 trout fillets 4 tablespoon butter, divided Salt and pepper to taste Fresh basil, thyme, and marjoram sprigs (3 or 4 each) 4-6 leeks 2 cups button mushrooms 1 head garlic, peeled 1/4 cup Dragon’s Milk Ale barrel-aged stout 1/4 cup cream 1/2-1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar Start coals; when coal bed is established, add Dragon’s Milk barrel-wood (or substitute oak chips soaked in beer). Target cooking temp of 225 degrees F. Using a food processor, thinly slice leeks before soaking in water to clean; remove and dry with kitchen towel. Slice cleaned mushrooms and garlic in food processor as well. Rub cut side of trout with 1 tablespoon butter; season liberally with salt and pepper. Layer 3/4 of leeks, garlic, and mushrooms atop trout; season again with salt and pepper. Arrange herb sprigs on smoker rack; top with prepared trout. Smoke for 50 minutes to an hour; when done, remove trout to rest. Save herbs. Dipping Sauce: While fish rests, melt 3 tablespoon butter in a saucepan; add remaining leeks, mushrooms, and garlic. Season with salt and sweat until vegetables are tender. Strip herbs from smoked sprigs (about 1/2-cup total); add to saucepan, followed by Dragon’s Milk and cream. Simmer 15-20 minutes. Add balsamic vinegar and stick-blend to even consistency; correct seasoning to taste. Serve trout warm or cold with dipping sauce.


I can write the digit representing the number of cookbooks I’ve read cover to cover with a single straight line, but to call the Beervangelist’s Guide to the Galaxy just another cookbook is to call da Vinci just another ninja turtle.

knows how long ago. To help with this, Guide to the Galaxy is separated into four sections, one for each season. The most relevant of those is currently summer, so that’s where I focused most of my limited attention span in the hunt for a new recipe.

Growing up my dad taught me necessary clichés like how to throw a baseball and how shave without removing 50% of my face. My mom taught me how to cook and color outside the lines. Even my slightly older brother taught me how to tell time.

It’s fair to say that I’m not much more than proficient in the kitchen so almost anyone can make a dish if I can. My biggest strength, in more than one way, is my ability to follow instructions. The recipes in Guide to the Galaxy are straightforward and contain only those words considered necessary to the process. You’ll find a mouthwatering photo, the ingredient list, and how to make the dish. That’s it, and that’s all. Luckily if you’re unsure about a technique mentioned, there’s a little place called Google.

Unfortunately, the life skills tutelage is usually over once you’re an adult. The rest you have to pick up through trial, error, and more error. Beervangelist’s Guide to the Galaxy, written by Fred Bueltmann, is a beacon of light atop a foggy sea of culinary pitfalls. It’s a crash course not just in food, beer and the pairing of the two, but also the social side that makes them more than just sustenance and intoxicants. And while that alone makes the book worth its weight in bottle deposits, the menu within is nothing short of a beer-infused masterpiece. Fred’s philosophy about the consumption side of beer and food is clear from the outset. It’s not about technique, details or circumlocutious descriptors. What’s important is how tasting it makes you feel. A perfect pairing isn’t just a meal; it’s a moment in time. You’ll forget within hours the obscure collection of adjectives you used to describe New Holland Dragon’s Milk on Beer Advocate. You’ll remember for a lifetime the night your friends raved about the Dragon’s Smoked Trout you made them in the backyard (the Beervangelist is steadfastly against driveway grilling) during the summer of 2014. Most can agree that fresh food is the best food, and Fred believes it so much that he dedicated several pages to purchasing beef by the side and different ways to buy farm shares. While most of us probably won’t be jumping into the saddle with a local farmer, it hammers home the point that we need to capitalize on food during its local season instead of eating stuff shipped from who knows where and who

I found myself on everyone’s second favorite website when the recipe for Dragon’s Smoked Trout suggested slicing leeks and mushrooms in a food processor. To date, my whirling blades of culinary justice had solely been used for crushing Oreo cookies, and I didn’t see a way to feed the beast without risking a few fingers of which I’ve grown somewhat fond. It turns out that buying a $10 food processor leaves you without several less-than-vital attachments, one of which enables slicing. Thankfully Ginsu knives require no such appendages. The only other hiccup I ran into, aside from those induced by bourbon barrel stout consumption, was my lack of knowledge on proper fish head removal technique. Luckily I’ve watched The Little Mermaid enough times to have a rough idea what to do. Recipes in this book are simple enough that anyone can make them, but impressive enough that your friends won’t believe you did. In one section alone Bueltmann covers summer sides, entrees, and desserts, all sandwiched between tips on pairing beer with cheese and how to throw the perfect picnic. Beervangelist’s Guide to the Galaxy is the perfect self-help book for those who want to reach new levels of excellence in eating, drinking, and hosting.

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:

, s a w n e r d B B , u s n z a z e B

ROASTING AT HOME Images by Brian Studwell and Mr. Green Beans

ll by B e w rian Stud


What comes to mind when you hear the word “homebrew?” Bearded men. Dirty garages. Broken bottles and broken dreams. What if something other than beer claimed that title? What if there was a new DIY beverage on the scene, with all the street cred of kombucha and none of the mucosal revulsion? What would you do if you found a new way to experience one of society’s oldest and dearest chemical enhancements? Wonder no more, for roasting your own coffee is officially a thing. As micro-roasters sweep the nation, the coffee-drinking public is opening their eyes (after their second cup) to the truth of good beans. Large coffee companies have been shilling alleged “specialty roasts” to us for years but as we, the consumers, have grown to appreciate unique origins offered by independent roasters, the big boys have had to reevaluate and step up their efforts (see Clovers at Starbucks, or the “roasted on/purchase by” dates on Peet’s bags). Meanwhile, some intrepid coffee fiends are branching out and bringing the party home. With a couple pieces of gear and a little know-how, you too can step up your coffee game. Roughly 54% of the American public drinks coffee every day. That’s over 100 million bleary-eyed citizens spending $18 billion annually on rich, roasty goodness. The vast majority of these lost souls, however, are drinking a subpar product entrenched in the American psyche as “coffee”: black like river-mud in a night storm. Burnt, acrid and brewed from beans long since meant to leave this mortal plane. There is a better way. CRAFT visited Clint Rowan of Portland’s Extracto coffee chainlet to see what the buzz is about. Bottom line: If you can make popcorn, you can roast coffee. No excuses, people. Clint is an expat from Texas who moved to Portland to work in coffee and now leads staff education at Extracto, a shop that leads the pack in a city brimming

with expert roasters and tasters alike. He roasts on a little Hottop machine that handles about a half pound at a time and, for the finest in green beans, swears by Oakland based Sweet Maria’s and Portland’s Mr. Green Beans. Both vendors have online stores—from co-op farms in Honduras to your doorstep with the click of a button. The future is now.

The roasting process itself is painless. It only takes 8–12 minutes and while you can go high-tech, if you want to get barbaric on some peaberries all you really need is a pan and an oven. The key is to keep the beans moving so as to evenly distribute heat. Lighter roasts will highlight the unique flavors of the coffee origin while darker roasts will taste more like, well, roast. Clint tells us that, “The point is to dry out moisture in the bean and then caramelize available sugars. That’s what gives good coffee those graham crackery, malty, nutty flavors.” Roast too far and you obscure the subtler aromatics. The coffee bean will change color throughout the process, from a pale, tawny gold to a deep, ruddy brown. The transformation is mesmerizing to watch, but there are also two auditory cues that let you know your roast is close to deli© Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


cious completion. First Crack is the popcorn-like noise made as moisture within the bean turns to steam and forcibly escapes its woody confines. Second Crack is a hotter, more violent reaction that occurs as the cellular matrix of the beans breaks down. It, adorably, sounds like Rice Krispies in milk. Both cracks denote a degree of roast, but buyer beware: Second Crack means you’re getting pretty dark. One of the best reasons to roast at home is the cost. Case in point: a pound of dry-processed Yellow Bourbon from IP farm in Carmo de Minas, Brazil costs $5.95 from Sweet Maria’s. How much is that bag of whatever at the store? And you don’t even get to have fun with it. That’s

the point. Coffee, for most of us, is a ritual. When it’s treated like medicine—put down with a perfunctory gulp—it loses something essential in the process, and you, as a coffee drinker and a person, are worth the time and the care to make a better brew. Rowan says, “It’s about using all five senses to understand the artistry of the thing. It’s so much more than pushing a button just so you can get out of bed.” You can start your day by choking down a hot cup of unfulfilled potential or, with just a couple minutes of your time, enjoy a small luxury and a little kick of pride as you savor your daily homebrew. The choice is yours.

Beans: • Sweet Maria’s • Mr. Green Beans Roasters: • Hottop • Fresh Roast SR500 • Whirley Pop 6 Quart (cheap, but some skill required) © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


Summer


Refreshers

Photography by Phil Jimcosky Look for a way to stay cool and hydrated this summer? Look no further. Here are a few simple and delicious ways to stay refreshed as the summer sun beats down.

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Soda with Bittered Sling Bitters

Snow Cones

Bitters come from a time when the line between cocktail bar and pharmacy counter was a bit blurrier than it is today. Now, as bitters are more popular than ever, people are beginning to use them outside of the cocktail. Drinking soda water with a few drops of bitters is a refreshing way to enjoy a drink when you aren’t in the mood for alcohol. This little combo is also pretty terrific as a digestif after a particularly heavy meal.

1 c. superfine sugar 4 c. water

The folks at Bittered Sling Extracts recommend 1–2 dashes (1 ml.) of their bitters in 6 to 8oz. of sparkling or flat water, depending how intense the drinker would like it! Try it with their Grapefruit & Hop, Orange & Juniper, or mix them together for something new and exciting. Find out more at bitteredsling.com. Cost $40.00

Warm the sugar and water together in a saucepan over medium heat. Once the sugar has dissolved, remove the pan from the heat and allow the syrup to cool completely before proceeding. Freeze for 1 hour, the break up the mixture with a fork so it freezes like snow. Continue to scrape the mixture every 30 minutes until it is frozen and fluffy, about 4 hours depending on the reliability of your freezer. Top with a drizzle of Sorel or syrup and serve immediately. Sorel

Staying hydrated in the summer heat is important. For those of you that want a little extra flavor, don’t turn to odd tasting powders or sugary drinks, create your own! With a bit of sweetness from melon and the refreshing flavor of mint, this melon mint water should be more than enough to hold your interest.

Sorel, a unique and delicious spirit made by Jack From Brooklyn, in the historic Red Hook neighborhood in New York City. Pay attention to craft cocktail menus and you’ll see that Sorel is taking the bartending world by storm. Exotic flavors of clove, cassia, ginger, nutmeg, and hibiscus make this spirit different from anything else on the market today. As terrific as Sorel is in a cocktail, we recommend that you try it on a snow cone for a distinctly whimsical way to enjoy his liqueur. Cost: around $25.00

Melon Mint Water

Blue J Syrups

10 cubes honeydew melon 10 mint leaves 1 sprig lemon verbena (optional) cold water

Blue J Syrups creators Jason and Jackie Albaum were looking for a better kind of syrup when they decided to create their own. Their syrups are made from all-natural and (mostly) locally grown ingredients for the best flavor possible. Seasonal flavors like Lime Sage, Hibiscus Mango, and Earl Grey & Lavender are hard to resist. Try them on a snow cone or in club soda. For more info on Blue J Syrups check out their website, bluejsyrups.com. Cost: $15.00

Hydration, The Fun Way

Combine the melon, mint, and verbena together in a pitcher and fill with cold water. Chill for a minimum of 30 minutes before serving.

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Cocktail Hour in America: Kirk Estopinal by Erin Jimcosky Photography by Phil Jimcosky


Quick Essentials Tamari Almonds: These are available everywhere. Check your local Whole Foods in the bulk section or even Trader Joe’s. Grissini: These are an essential part of any cocktail party. Keep dishes of them around the room to ensure that anyone imbibing has easy access to them. They will help in keeping your cocktail party from turning into a frat party. Don’t Run Short Planning food for a cocktail party can be a little tricky. Too little, and your guests will be three sheets to the wind before you know it. Too much, and you are wasting your money, not to mention good oysters. I have always had luck in planning for four of each appetizer per person. Kirk’s Cocktail Hour Playlist When I visited Kirk’s bar in NOLA Bellocq, I couldn’t help but notice the role music played in the type of atmosphere they wanted to create. A good bartender or host plans everything in order to maintain the right atmosphere. Here are a few album recommendations that Kirk uses to keeping things interesting without inspiring a sorority girl dance cluster. Beach Fossils – What A Pleasure Wild Nothing – Gemini Minks – Tides End Telefon Tel Aiv – Immolate Yourself Belong – October Language

The movement towards better cocktails has been gaining steam for the last 15 years or so, and I think it’s safe to say that it is officially cocktail hour in America. With the cocktail renaissance reigning supreme in bars across the country, we thought it was time to bring cocktail hour home. In this column I will teach you how to host a cocktail party with flavor. I’ll be introducing you to some cocktail ideas that aren’t quite as common while getting advice of my own from industry people around the country. In this inaugural edition of Cocktail Hour in America, the stars of the show are Pompelmo Italiano, an aperitif cocktail by NOLA based barman Kirk Estopinal, and my Spicy Oysters with Thai Basil Jalapeños from Gordy’s Pickles. We also have napkins, barware, and hostess gift ideas to share with you to put the finishing touches on your party. The Cocktail The idea of the aperitif is, at its most basic, to stimulate the appetite. This low alcohol aperitif created by Kirk Estopinal is a light, refreshing example of this category while being a little more exciting than your average Campari and soda. Here he combines a grapefruit liqueur with the aperitif wine Bonal Gentian Quina, which is made with herbs, roots and wine and fortified with brandy. The drink is then topped off with club soda giving this brightly flavored cocktail a gorgeous effervescence. Serving a low alcohol cocktail during cocktail hour has several benefits, according to Kirk. First off, it will help you keep your get-together a place to have fun and catch up instead of going full-on frat party. Secondly, it is much easier to pair with food since high alcohol drinks tend to arrest your taste receptors. After all, who wants to cook for guests that can’t really taste how delicious the food is?

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The Essentials

Pompelmo Italiano

Throwing a cocktail party and using plastic cups and paper napkins is lame and kind of tacky. Instead, why don’t you invest a little dinero in good quality party-ware? Here are a couple of suggestions that would be great for this party.

1 ½ oz. Giffard’s Pamplemousse Liqueur 1 ½ oz. Bonal Gentian Quina ¼ oz. lemon juice pinch, salt 2 grapefruit peels 2 oz. club soda

Black Walnut Trencher Board: Kaufmann Mercantile commissioned the Black Walnut Trencher Board from a wood shop in Vermont, and it is as beautiful as is it functional. Use it to mince, chop and dice, while the trench makes it ideal to collect juices while carving a roast. It cleans up beautifully as a spot to arrange your appetizers for guests. The board retails for $89.00. Glassware: Go vintage! The Pompelmo Italiano is supposed to be served in a pilsner glass, but most of the pilsners available are pretty drab. I quickly struck gold on an Etsy search with these etched starburst pilsner glasses. Prices vary. Oyster Knife: Anytime you plan on shucking a lot of oysters it is always a good idea to have an oyster knife on hand to ease the job. Will Manning of Georgia’s Heartwood Forge makes the perfect tool for prying apart those delicious bivalves. Check out page 120 for more information.

Add the Pamplemousse, Bonal, lemon, salt and grapefruit peels to a shaker filled with ice. Shake vigorously. Strain into a pilsner filled with small pellet (or cracked, not crushed) ice. Top with 2 oz. club soda and serve. Kirk Estopinal Kirk Estopinal is quickly becoming something of a legend in New Orleans with his innovative bar projects. He, along with business partner Neal Bodenheimer, is the mind behind the uber cool craft cocktail bars Cure and Bellocq. His latest project is the tiki-inspired Cain & Table that opened last January in NOLA. Grand Poppy & Soda I find it best to limit the drink menu at a cocktail party to one drink with several components, and have one that is incredibly quick. Just because it is quick doesn’t mean it has to be boring, so hunt down a unique bitter liqueur like Grand Poppy from L.A.’s Greenbar Distillery to make things a bit more interesting. 2 oz. Grand Poppy club soda lemon twist Fill a highball glass with ice and pour over the Grand Poppy. Top with club soda, garnish with a twist, and serve.


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The Appetizers

For The Guest: The Hostess Gifts

Food is a vitally important part of any cocktail party, and is often overlooked. Like a bartender, the host of a cocktail party has to do what they can to control the scene and food is a great way to do that. Food slows down the drinking a bit, but good food adds to a party. I like to make two main appetizers, and then get a few basic and delicious things at the market to set out.

Bringing a little something for your host is a very kind gesture that shows that his or her efforts are appreciated. Here’s one suggestion for a great gift that won’t go unnoticed.

When Kirk created the Pompelmo Italiano he sent along some food pairing recommendations in the form of oysters and ham. They are both salty and delicious, while contrasting in what they bring to the party. The ham has a nutty deep complexity while the oysters are sweet and creamy, and both play beautifully off of the bright grapefruit flavors of the cocktail. Spicy Oysters with Basil If there is one thing that oyster lovers enjoy, it is arguing about how to eat them. I personally enjoy both hot sauce and a tart, herbaceous mignonette for mine, so I decided to combine the two. For elements of heat and acidity I used Thai Basil Jalapenos from Gordy’s Pickles out of the DC Metro area. These herbaceous and spicy little numbers will knock your socks off while complimenting the cool, briny oysters.

Home Bar Basics This just might be one of the more adorable gifts you can give a host or hostess. Dave Stolte’s book Home Bar Basics offers up practical knowledge for setting up a home bar and cocktail recipes in a creative and whimsical way. Pick up a copy for just $15.99; your host with the most will be glad you did. Love Drunk Rose by Mouton Noir Every host appreciates a bottle of wine, and this bottle from sommelier turned winemaker André Hueston Mack is a delicious and hip way to tell the host that you appreciate them. The notes of wild strawberry, watermelon rind, kiwi are incredibly delicious and to bring things full circle, will pair with the recipes beautifully.

48 fresh oysters* 48 Thai Basil Pickled Jalapeños drained with seeds removed ½ red onion, sliced into paper thin strips 48 small basil leaves rock salt Set up an oyster bar complete with ice, an oyster knife, towel, and prepped ingredients. The oysters must stay cool, but shouldn’t sit directly in the ice, so rest a platter filled with rock salt on the ice for the oysters to lie on. As guests come up for an oyster, hold the oyster flat side up so as not to spill the juices as you slide your oyster knife in by the hinge and twist to open the oyster and slide the knife along the top of the oyster to detach the shell and the loosen the meat inside. Top with the jalapeños, a strip of onion and a basil leaf. Serves 12 Note: Be sure to discuss proper oyster handling with the fishmonger. © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


The Checklist

Oyster Recommendations

Wednesday Evening

I recommend Penn Cove, Kumamoto, Prince Edward Island, European Flat, Totten Inlet Virginica, or if you are extremely lucky, Olympia oysters.

Do most of the shopping: watermelon __ vinegar __ mint __ grissini __ tamari almonds __ prosciutto-style ham __ red onion __

Prep the pickled watermelon __

Thursday Evening Set up a table for the oyster bar: oyster knife __ napkins __ bucket for empty shells __ large wide container to hold the ice __ large platter for the oysters __

Organize your cocktail bar, excluding any perishables __ Decide where snacks will be placed around the room __ Choose which serving pieces you will use __

Friday After Work

Pick up the oysters at your local fishmonger __ Buy ice for the oyster bar __ Buy fresh basil __ Drain the pickled watermelon and wrap with ham _ Slice the onion __ Set out the grissini and almonds __ Add the ice and oysters to the oyster bar setup __

Set up a shucking station near the action and close to the garnishes, and get a friend to man the station. You’ll be surprised at how much your guests enjoy it. Pickled Watermelon Rind and Prosciutto-Style Ham We have some terrific producers of prosciutto-style ham here in the good old USA. Check out your local charcuterie for brands like La Quercia out of Iowa or Johnston Country Hams out of Virginia both of whom produce a prosciutto-style ham. Combine them with pickled watermelon rind for an interesting appetizer that will be a delicious curiosity to your guests. 48 2-inch pieces of pickled watermelon rind (recipe below) 48 slices prosciutto-style ham freshly ground pepper Wrap the pickled watermelon rind with ham, then sprinkle with pepper and serve. Pickled Watermelon Rind ½ watermelon rind, peeled 2 Tbsp. fresh mint, chopped 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. sugar 1 c. apple cider vinegar 1 c. water Slice the watermelon rind into 2-inch rectangles and set aside. Stir together the mint, salt, sugar, vinegar and water. Add in the watermelon, stirring to coat. Cover and place in the refrigerator and allow it to sit for 48 hours before use. Serves 12

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Reverse Jimi By Warren Bobrow Cocktails styled by Julian Goglia Photography by Jessica Miller

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Oh my, do I love mocktails. Designated by their lack of alcohol, mocktails give the mixologist or home bartender a chance to let flavor ooze through a drink without the messy consequences of drinking one too many. Mocktails have the opportunity to shine in ways yet unknown by many drinkers. The reasons for mocktails are many. First of all, drinking is a social endeavor. When a non-drinker is in a social context they may not want to single themselves out from the crowd by asking for a plain soda. Mocktails provide the chance to explore flavor without the kick of alcohol, and offer a way to experience the creativity that comes from mixology. When done correctly, a good mocktail offers all the excitement of a well-crafted cocktail. One of my favorite ways to dig deeply into flavor is to use soda or cocktail syrups. There are dozens of these on the market, which seems to expand daily with exciting new combinations of flavors. Some of my favorite craft soda/ cocktail syrups are Blue J Syrups, Royal Rose Syrups and Fruitations. What soda syrup can do for a mocktail (or a cocktail) is truly amazing. These concentrated flavoring agents were initially fashioned to make the bartender’s job easier. They also help the home bartender extract the excitement of craft cocktails at home with relative ease. This mocktail, which I call the Reverse Jimi, plays to the antagonist in Jimi Hendrix, who in turn inspired the original Jimi Cocktail made with gin. The Reverse Jimi has no alcohol, yet is packed with flavor from the cooling aspects of rose simple syrup, the crisp aromatics from muddled cucumbers, grilled lime juice, and plenty of spicy spearmint. The rose simple syrup is a beautifully aromatic concoction

of two-parts rosewater (culinary grade) to one-part dark sugar syrup. To make grilled lime juice, simply slice limes in half and grill over wood charcoal or sear in a cast iron pan, cool and then juice. The garnish is a large orange zest that is pinched in behind a lit match, spraying the top of the glass with toasted orange oils. This is a very easy cocktail to duplicate by even a home bartender. Reverse Jimi Ingredients: 1 European cucumber (or English cucumber, should the European kind remain elusive) 1 bunch of fresh mint, rinsed 2 oz. grilled lime juice 1 oz. rose simple syrup by Royal Rose Syrups orange zest strip (1 inch wide by 3 inches long) fresh seltzer 3 drops of bitters (your choice; I used Bitter End Thai Bitters) 3 cubes of good ice (hand cut, or 1x1 cubes from a silicone tray) Preparation: Pre-chill a Collins glass by packing with bar ice and water until frosty. To a Boston Shaker, add 3 or 4 1-inch slices of a peeled cucumber, lime juice and mint, then muddle. Add the rose simple syrup and muddle to combine. Top with ice, cap and shake hard for 30 seconds. Empty the Collins glass and add the large cubes of ice, then pour the mocktail over the top. Light a wooden match and pinch the orange zest behind the flame, over the mocktail, to allow the orange oils to spray towards the top of the mocktail and leave a toasty orange flavor. Finish with a splash of seltzer and 3 drops of bitters.

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IMAGES BY BRIAN HOFMEISTER


When you think of our nation’s 50th state, your mind may envision big waves, colorful cocktails and cheesy tiki tchotchkes. You’d be partially right, as all of those things abound on the populous island of Oahu. Don’t get me wrong; I’m the first to admit that there is a time and place to sip overly sweetened libations from clumsy mugs capped with umbrellas. That time or place is not, however, after you’ve made the arduous journey to this bit of Polynesian paradise. With the slightest bit of effort, you can separate yourself from the throngs of tourists and find yourself sipping with the Hawaiian locals. Whether it is an industry-favorite dive bar, a thoughtfully prepared meal or a perfectly executed cocktail, Oahu has a vibrant scene to keep you going long after the sun has taken its final bow. Upon arrival, our group of jetsetters stationed ourselves in a beachside house in the picturesque town of Kailua far away from the bustle of Waikiki (since honeymooners, pasty winter vacationers and ill-fitting Aloha shirts stained with huli-huli sauce was not my idea of “getting away”). We spent much of our time taking tasting notes on local rums, sampling island brews and shaking daiquiris until we ran out of limes. It wasn’t long before we got the itch and left the beach behind to see what Oahu had to offer. Besides, I was serious when I said we ran out of limes. First stop: Chinatown. Since we had ventured out in the early part of the week, the neighborhood was quiet with only the usual suspects scuffling about this transitional neighborhood. The motley of storefronts on Hotel Street would seem at home in just about any city in the country. A mix of run-down dives complete with poker machines, plastic covers stapled to tables and signs reminding you that selling drugs is illegal live alongside contempo-

rary cocktail bars, inspired restaurants and the requisite tattoo shop. Passing on the “even too local for me” dive bars, we made our way to Manifest. A simply designed and comfortable space greets you from the beginning, with the exposed brick showcasing an array of local art. The crowd on this weekday is a nice balance of professional after-work folks, hipsters and our group of travelers to round it out. We happened to roll in early enough for happy hour, which adds up to an incredible value when you consider retail prices on the island. Hawaii is one place where it may actually be cheaper to drink in a bar than at home, since costs can be 10-30% higher than your typical grocery store. Five dollars for specialty cocktails until 7 p.m.? It would be financially irresponsible not to have a second beverage.

by James Watt

My first call at Manifest was the “Diamond & Dutch” by Justin Park. This drink had me at bourbon. And chartreuse. And blackberries . . . to get my fruit in for the day. Well balanced and refreshing, the Diamond & Dutch was a winner. The menu at Manifest is thoughtfully designed with a bit of something for everyone, including original cocktails and even new industry standards like the “Lazy Lover” from Employees Only & Sam Ross’ “Paper Plane.” Our barkeep, Naomi, deftly handled the dealer’s choice calls utilizing local ingredients and proved a lovely host during our visit. With a table and good company, this bar is an easy place to sip away the hours. On Saturday nights, you can belly up to the bar with pros Tim Rita Jr. and Justin Park behind the stick. Even from our first stop for a beverage, the sense of place and influence of the

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island was readily apparent. Barman Tim Rita Jr. reflected on the island style, observing: “Hawaii is definitely embracing the Tiki celebration. Often times people refer to it as the Tiki resurgence but for us in Hawaii, it’s always been our bread and butter especially because tourism is our biggest industry.” Local pride on the island abounds, and the beverage scene isn’t spared this distinct saturation of island flavor. Continued Rita, “A lot of the premier barmen on the rock are showing their depth and creativity implementing classic cocktails with an island twist. I like to refer to it as ‘Hawaii Centric’: using flavors of Asia and our native produce and blending them with classic cocktails.” Notable cocktail spots such as Bevy headed up by Christian Self and Pint + Jigger from Dave Newman showcase this fusion of classic cocktail knowledge with a nod to the amazing local variety. The possibilities are endless. “We are blessed with our location. We get influences from Asia to New York, and all the perks that go with living in a tropical climate 365 days of the year,” says Rita. “Only the freshest produce is at our doorstep.” Fully trusting Mr. Rita, but needing to see it for myself, I carried on. In the interest of extending the evening, our next stop would mix some edibles with our search for another cocktail. Enter, The Pig & the Lady. What started as a pop-up restaurant garnered such demand that a brick and mortar location emerged. An intelligent and heartfelt menu reflecting the family’s Vietnamese heritage made me glad to

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be there with a larger group so we could sample just about everything. Cocktails here fell in line and played a great supporting role to the cuisine. Charming and playful, this place delivers without taking itself too seriously. Moving to the West side of the island, I insist on a stop at Monkeypod. A strong emphasis on local ingredients with a very well executed beverage program will make you a repeat customer if you’re nearby. The amped up daiquiri inspired “D’yer Mak’er” sets the tone with overproof Smith & Cross rum, Swedish punsch, honey and bitters. It’s the perfect complement to the chef’s dishes and the Hawaiian breeze in this open-air space. When traveling, I can never deny my roots nor my urge to find the best dive bars in a city. To truly uncover these protected gems would take far more time than I had. One surefire way to expedite this search is to find out where bartenders go for a cocktail when their night has wrapped. The venue of choice was repeatedly purported to be the Side St. Inn, so away we went. We visited both of their locations for good measure, but it’s best to hit up the original on Hopaka Street. It was love at first sight of the padded bar rail: part-diner serving “local style comfort food,” part-bar complete with carpeting, cream laminate top and brown vinyl stools. Just remember: you’re here to fit in and feel like a local. Order a whiskey and a beer and mind your manners. Once you’ve had your fill of rubbing elbows at the bar, you’ll want to make sure a nightcap is waiting for you back home. Plan ahead and save a few bucks


MORE OAHU PRIME PICKS: For the Beer Lover: Real A Gastropub One & Done Blue Cocktail: Duke’s Waikiki The DeGroff Effect: Lewer’s Lounge at Halekulani Morning Pick Me Up: Coffee Gallery, Haleiwa Food Trucks: Drive until you see them, pull over, eat, repeat.


by stocking up on local rums and popular beers at the grocery stores. For specialty items, it’s worth a run to the Liquor Collection in Honolulu. This well curated store is stocked to the gills with a little bit of everything. Be prepared to pay island prices, but it’s one of your few options for the bartender favorites we take for granted on the mainland. Don’t be a cheap-ass; you’ll be supporting local business, the staff is quite friendly and you’ll be able to satisfy the midnight urge for an amaro-modified mojito. Essential. From ingredients to patrons, Oahu is full of surprises. It’s difficult to take it all in

as the days seem to run short if you’re doing it right. Sunny afternoons on the beach can make for early nights. Don’t be afraid to play tourist for an evening and hit the classic—and often cheesy—spots in Waikiki, head to the North Shore to see the famous surf, and eat from food trucks as often as humanly possible. Bring a designated driver (thank you, John C.) so you can marvel at the winding roads, take a muddy hike to jump from a waterfall and respectfully share in this paradise. There’s no shortage of hospitality, breathtaking vistas or frosty beverages. Quite frankly, this thirsty bartender can’t wait to return and see more.


FOR THE KITCHEN

BY COLIN JOLIAT PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHIL JIMCOSKY

Thai Basil Jalapeños from Gordy’s Pickle Jar Gordy’s Pickle Jar out of Washington, DC really hit the mark with these spicy little firecrackers. In the DC area these popular pickles pop up everywhere from Whole Foods to The Shake Shack. Owners Sheila Fain and Sarah Gordon and their tiny crew handcraft each batch with top-notch ingredients. Check them out online at gordyspicklejar. com. Cost: $10.00 Serving Suggestions • Use to spice up fresh spring rolls • As a garnish for a Bloody Mary • Chopped up in guacamole • As a topping for nachos

Oyster Knife by Heartwood Forge Will Manning, founder of Heartwood Forge, has been shaping metal since hammering bent nails back to their original form when he was just a kid. That early lesson lives on today with Manning’s commitment to making beautiful hand crafted knives from materials that are reused, reclaimed, and recycled. Have a functional work of art custom made for you at heartwoodforge.com. Cost: Prices vary Knife Care • Avoid the dishwasher at all costs • Sharpen your knife regularly • Always use a wooden cutting board • Oil the handle once every month Hot Cakes Rye Whiskey Caramel Sauce Autumn Martin started as a pastry chef but quickly moved into a field in which we’d all love to work: chocolate. After five years of creating award-winning confections as Head


Chocolatier for Theo Chocolate, she left to focus on her own business of creating amazing sauces and take-and-bake cakes cleverly nestled in mason jars. Spice up your next dessert with this Rye Whiskey Caramel Sauce at getyourhotcakes.com. Cost: $18.00 Serving Suggestions: • Poured over vanilla ice cream • Drizzled on popcorn • Mixed in a hot toddy • On a spoon Burgundy Anise & Apricot Ale Jelly by Potlicker Kitchen Food and booze go together like love and marriage or a horse and carriage, and Nancy and Walter Warner have been combining the two since they opened Potlicker Kitchen in 2009. Their make beer and wine jellies are inspired by Vermont’s food and beer culture and are a welcome addition to every kitchen. Pick up a six-pack today! Cost: $7.00 - $39.00 Serving Suggestions: • Adult PB&J • Boozy breakfast toast • Ham glaze • Chicken wing marinade Check page 142 for a recipe using the Apricot Ale Jelly. Small Thyme Cooks by Andre Hueston Mack Andre Hueston Mack is a man of many talents, all of which make your life more enjoyable. You might know him as the owner and winemaker of Mouton Noir Wines, or perhaps you enjoyed one of the wines from the lists he wrote for a couple little restaurants named The French Laundry and Per Se. Now he’s helping bring back your childhood.

also learn about world-renowned chefs and culinary icons. Order your copy now! Cost: $11.00 Ideal Recipients: • Wine lovers • Big time foodies • Adults who’ve lost their inner child • Pint-sized future chefs Bella Cucina Lemon Garlic Chickpeas Bella Cucina, the complete lifestyle brand created by Alisa Barry, began as a small café in Atlanta but soon expanded into a full line of artisan foods available across the globe. Her snacks and sauces are handmade in small batches, and their elegant beauty only equals their taste. Cost: $10.00 Serving Suggestions: • Part of an antipasti selection • Tossed with fresh greens and crumbled feta • Served alongside roasted chicken Q39 BBQ Sauce Collection Rob Magee, founder of Q39, has over 30 years of experience in some of the finest restaurants in the country, and he used those skills to create award-winning BBQ in Kansas City. Part of his success has been the proprietary sauces he’s developed along the way, and now you can take them home with you. Even if you’re not a meat-master like Rob, a good sauce goes a long way when BBQ’ing. There’s a sauce for every type of BBQ. The Honey is ideal for ribs and chicken. The sweet and tangy Zesty is perfect if you’re Q’ing pork, and when in doubt, just slather the Classic on everything. No one will judge you if you just dip your finger in the bottle, either. Cost: $7.95

Small Thyme Cooks is a culinary coloring and activity book. Not only can you connect the champagne dots, decode messages in sushi, and color your favorite cook, you’ll © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


COCKTAIL SPINOFF:

lia an Gog i l u J y db il st yle Cockta


Like any skill, you need to learn the fundamentals as a base for everything you will do moving forward. Making cocktails is no different than learning to play an instrument or picking up a new language. No one picks up a guitar and starts ripping solos in the first few months. You have to spend countless hours perfecting technique, learning scales, developing a foundation and truly mastering the building blocks before you can move on. Cocktails are no different. The daiquiri is the first cocktail I teach any new bartender or enthusiast. You must be able to flawlessly balance the three core ingredients of sweet, sour and strong. Until this becomes second nature, anything you add on top of it will become muddy and contrived. Walk before you run. To master the classic Daiquiri and properly honor its origin, we need to dive into its history and flesh out the recipes using modern proportions. Perhaps the most famous place in the world making daiquiris is La Floridita in Cuba, where they make their daiquiris using a recipe from 1935.

LA FLORIDITA’S RECIPE

EMBURY’S RECIPE

2 oz. rum 1 tsp. sugar juice of half a lime (the book says lemon, but the Spanish version says “limon verde” so I will defer to lime) cracked ice Shake well and stain into cocktail glass.

1 part sugar syrup 2 parts lime juice 8 parts white label Cuban rum Shake vigorously with plenty of finely crushed ice and strain into chilled cocktail glass.

For my standards, this is a bit vague. How much juice is in a half of lime (or lemon)? While I also have great respect for those bartenders mixing with raw sugar, as was the norm classically, today’s bartender uses simple syrups as their go-to. Moving slightly more modern: David Embury’s recipe in “The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks” (1948) calls for a recipe using simple syrup.

With the risk of starting an international bartending incident and with all due respect for Mr. Embury, I find his proportions to err on the side of the spirit. They are very close, but not quite to the fit of the average modern palate. One other very important note is that his approach to simple syrup is 3:1 sugar to water ratio. That is very rich compared to most modern recipes and must be taken into consideration. Second, the Floridita recipe calls for cracked ice and Embury calls for finely crushed ice. Dilution will be quite different compared to a Kold Draft shake. For my taste, I would recommend using 2 ounces of rum, 1 ounce of fresh lime juice, and ¾ simple syrup (1:1 ratio) as a starting point. As with all recipes, taste is personal and must be adjusted on a variety of factors. Similarly, why limit yourself to white rum? Certainly it is tradition, but I’ve had some very lovely daiquiris made with dark spirits. If you are going white, Caña Brava may make the most honest representation. Plantation 3 Star, Banks 5, and Flor de Caña 4 all make nice renditions as well. © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


THE SPINOFFS After you have the foundation of a cocktail down, you can move on and play around with different ingredients. Here are some Daiquiri spinoffs created by a few bartenders who know their way around the stick.

Julian Goglia

Partner and Principal Barkeep, Pinewood Tippling Room, Atlanta, GA First and foremost, a traditional Daiquiri is one of my favorite cocktails of all time. One of the most appealing characteristics of a Daiquiri, as well as any other “sour,” is the ability to balance it to anyone’s taste. Too sweet, add more acid. Too sour, add more sweet. If you’re like me and nothing is ever boozy enough, simply add more booze. These two crowd-favorite riffs taste zippy and complex, yet they’re not extremely hard to make at home. If you’re not familiar with shrubs, they’re simply sweetened vinegar based syrups often containing fruits or vegetables. The idea might sound odd at first, but they’ll change your summer drinks of choice forever. Confederados 2 oz. Novo Fogo Silver Cachaça 1 oz. watermelon shrub (recipe below) ½ oz. fresh lime juice ¼ oz. simple syrup (optional) Combine cachaça, watermelon shrub, lime juice and simple syrup. Shake, strain, drink, and repeat. Watermelon Shrub 1 c. puréed/muddled watermelon chunks 1 c. sugar ½ c. white balsamic vinegar (¼ c. if using something drier like champagne, rice wine, etc.) Combine and stir ingredients together. Let soak overnight. Strain. Store refrigerated.

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Kimberly Patton-Bragg Bartender, Three Muses New Orleans, LA

I love a cocktail that’s a bit of a journey. This one is initially recognizable, but then the smoke and heat hit you, followed by that sweetness and touch of anise. This cocktail embodies craft because it’s using the familiar with an underused ingredient and a bit of surprise. Craft is something that is thought out, worked out, thrown out, and worked out again until the flavor you were trying to achieve is just right. Craft is patience. Balcony Gossip 1 ½ oz. Cana Brava Rum ¾ oz. Colombian aguardiente (or your favorite craft anise-flavored liqueur) ¾ oz. smoked habanero & pineapple shrub (recipe below) ½ oz. lime juice Shake all ingredients and double strain into a coupe glass. Express grapefruit peel and discard. Garnish with star anise. Smoked Habanero & Pineapple Shrub 6 habaneros pineapple, cubed 2 c. sugar 1 c. apple cider vinegar 1 c. cane vinegar Smoke the habaneros. Macerate cubed pineapple in sugar, covered, for 2 days. Add apple cider vinegar and cane vinegar then refrigerate, covered, for 7–10 days, removing habaneros if necessary (don’t want your teeth to sweat). Fully remove habaneros and muddle the pineapple in mixture. Strain.

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Russell Davis

Bar Expert, Bar Rescue Los Angeles, CA Constantine was the name of Hemmingway’s bartender at El Floridita and he was famous for his Daiquiri, which was hand-shaken with two different types of ice. This is a Daiquiri with a beautiful textures and grassy, caramel notes. St. George Constantine Daiquiri 2 oz. St. George California Agricole Rum 1 oz. fresh lime juice that’s been rested for 2–4 hours ½ oz. coconut simple syrup* ice, both cubed and crushed Place all ingredients in a shaker filled with half cubed, half crushed ice. Shake vigorously for 10 to 15 seconds and then double strain into a frozen Martini glass. Garnish with a lime wheel sliced paper thin. *Coconut simple syrup: Mix one part coconut sugar with one part room-temperature water by volume. Combine and shake or blend until liquefied.

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MUSIC TO MY BEERS by Brian Yaeger I have five songs with the word “chicken” in the title in my iTunes music library. (What, how many do you have? Whatever the number, you need one more: watch, listen, and do Rufus Thomas’s 1970 Stax hit “Do the Funky Chicken”.) That got me wondering. Since I love beer more than I love chicken, how many songs do I have with the word “beer”? Turns out I have 24. A case’s worth. Coincidence?

What I get a kick out of is their diversity. It’s that range that makes music, and beer, so exciting to explore. After all, when a song is performed with just guitar, bass, drums and vocals, the possibilities are infinite and the same goes for a beer brewed with only malted barley, hops, yeast and water. Add in other instruments or adjuncts, and that “variety is the spice of life” idiom has never sounded or tasted truer. Naturally, I thought it’d be fun to listen to my Beer playlist and pair tracks with complimenting craft beers. It starts with the straightforward “Beer” (about how beer is better than every other drug) by Austin’s Asylum Street Spankers, who play a panoply of Americana styles. Just as Austin is an oasis in the middle of Texas, it has become an impressive watering hole surrounded by a beer desert. I’d pair this with my first love of their local

beers, 512 Brewing Pecan Porter. It’s a delicious chocolaty porter embellished with locally grown pecans. There’s even a pecan tree right outside the brewery. Next up is a track with the same title by 1996’s Reel Big Fish, who play third-wave ska, which now sounds analogous to craft breweries that sprang up in 1996 that are still chugging along selling ambers and maybe a fruited wheat beer but aren’t really writing recipes that reflect the modern era of beer. Having said that, I still like their stuff just like I still love my first style of craft beer, ESB. This gets paired with Beechwood Brewing Hops of Brixton. The band’s from Huntington Beach and the brewery’s in Long Beach. Hops of Brixton is an homage to British bitters in the same way that SoCal ska bands took their cues from English two-tone ska. Similarly, this beer is 44 IBUs, making it appeal to West Coast palates with bouncier hops.

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Admittedly, some of the songs I bought because of the subject matter. I’m looking at you, Garth Brooks and George Jones, whose duet “B Double E Double Are You In” may or may not be a country juggernaut (but it’s infinitely better than the Toby Keith/Willie Nelson duet “Beer for My Horses”…Really, Willie?). For these two, when I think of country, I think Nashville. When I think Nashville, I think Yazoo Brewing (the only brewery I’ve been to there). Country is most definitely lager music, so let’s pour a glass of Yazoo Fall Lager and dismiss the fact that it actually has more of a caramel flavor than that of chewing on a piece of hay. Speaking of Beer Runs, Todd Snider’s Western ditty is easily a favorite. The song is about some college kids taking in a concert and trying to score some beer. That brings to mind my later college years (after the first few spent chugging Natty Light) once I’d discovered “microbrew” and couldn’t believe the variety of flavors, including one that tasted like blueberries. Well, much to my surprise, the concert venue north of where I went to school, San Luis Obispo Brewing Co., is still an entity, as is SLO Blueberry Ale. These next songs act like that can of water chestnuts in your pantry that you don’t remember buying but each time you catch a glance it puts you in the mood for stir fry. The Brodys were never famous (outside Davis, CA) but their goofy rock song “Beer Truck Driver” should’ve topped the charts. There’s a lyric about a “big ol’ truck full of suds,” and it just so happens that the oldest brewery in Davis is called Sudwerk. I happened to have visited there in college, too, after a weekend hanging out with my best friend who went to UC Davis (home of the premier brewing science program). I’d pair this with their Pil-

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sner since it’s about cold, easy-drinking beers, which, when made as well as Sudwerk does it, is a thing of golden beauty. Of course I have “One Bourbon, One Scotch, One Beer” performed by blues icon John Lee Hooker. I’m guessing my wife has George Thorogood’s version (since she’s his cousin). It’d be easy to call for a pairing here of something like, say, a shot of Jim, a shot of Crown Royal if yeer feelin’ all classy, and a PBR back. But no. Bourbon, scotch and beer represent some of the peaks of mankind’s ingenuity in the fermented arts and those peaks are always reaching greater heights. Mikkeller Brewery made a series of beers called Black Hole consisting of a single batch of Imperial Stout—divided into five smaller ones—with added coffee, honey, and vanilla. In addition to a control beer, the other four quantities were used to fill different barrels to see how each truly affects the beer. Boy do I wish I could have full bottles of all of those again! The first rough licks of these songs I’d start by drinking the bourbon-barrel aged Black Hole (which actually threw in some sherry and Madeira flavors), followed by the Black Hole aged in Islay Scotch barrels (my favorite, since I love that smoky, peaty bonfire and ash taste), then by song’s end I’d be hammered as I make my way through the control version and delight in the desserty elements from vanilla beans and cocoa nibs. Another awesome blues tune is only vaguely beery: “Get Off the Table Mabel (the Two Dollars is for the Beer)” by Bullmoose Jackson and the Flashcats. And like our friend Bullmoose, I’d suggest drinking this with another long-forgotten classic that has been brought back for kids today who just don’t know any dif-


ferent. That’s New Albion Beer, a cross between a replica and a reboot of the flagship beer from America’s first craft brewery built after Prohibition. Founder Jack McAuliffe, like our friend Bullmoose, lived to see his groundbreaking efforts revitalized and re-appreciated when the Boston Beer Co. salvaged the trademark and re-animated the beer with help from Russian River Brewing Company. giving all the proceeds to McAuliffe, and he’s still around to enjoy them. Next, don’t ask how an album by NY hockey-punk band Two Man Advantage ended up in my CD collection, but since they formed in a beer league, they write exclusively about hockey and beer. Sample lyric from “Beer Today, Gone Tomorrow”: Life’s a bitch without no beer, so buy enough to last all year. Alas, while plenty of phenomenal brews hail from The Great White North including personal favorites Dieu du Ciel from Montreal, Half Pints in Manitoba, and Driftwood in Victoria, BC, this tune admittedly belongs in the penalty box with a can of Molson Ice. I really love folk drinking songs so it’s possible—probable—that my German ones all sing the praises of bier, but my CD of Irish Drinking Songs contains one of the best pub songs ever, “Beer, Beer, Beer” (about the man who invented beer,

Charlie Mops...who made it out of hops). Incidentally, I will be traveling to Dublin for my first time this June and booked a room nearest JW Sweetman, one of Ireland’s top rated breweries, so I’ll future-pair this with their Irish Red. Slainte. By the way, how do we feel about songs with the word “brew,” be it the jazzy Bitches kind courtesy of Miles Davis (this goes with the Dogfish Head beer honoring the album’s 40th anniversary, duh), the psych-rock Strange kind care of Cream (partnered with Pistachio Cream Ale from Short’s Brewing, the kings of strange brews) or the Special one that two-toners Bad Manners served up? Wrapping the suds-soaked playlist up in fine fashion, we come finally to Brave Combo out of Denton, Texas, who play a hybrid of polka and rock and do an outof-this-world cover of the polka chestnut In Heaven There Is No Beer. It deserves a combo that’s equally brave such as German & IPA. Braukunstkeller’s Mandarina IPA melds old world tradition with avant garde flare in the form of a wild new hop like Mandarina Bavaria. Alas, Ludacris’s hip hop album, “ChickenN-Beer,” is not the holy grail, as it contains no tracks about the former or the latter.


Images courtesy of Aaron Pott


Ever wonder how many factors went into the creation of your favorite wine? From start to finish, key factors and philosophies determine the ultimate success of those few emboldened grapes. Aaron Pott takes us along for the ride to unveil the decisions behind making great wine. Presence in the vineyard The foremost idea behind winemaking is that the vintner needs to be present in the vineyard. The vintner can use his intellect and mobility to react to changing situations on a vine per vine basis. All scenarios—whether spotting disease, insect attacks or the presence of beneficial insects, making space in the canopy, dropping fruit or observing differences in micro-locations throughout the vineyard—require a human presence. In most cases, farming small parcels is always better than farming large ones to prioritize quality over quantity. Computers, models, scientific instruments are only as good as those that are interpreting the data. Nothing replaces a vintner’s footprint to produce sound fruit capable of making great wines. Respect the terroir Terroir is made up of all the elements that affect the birth, growth, and final result of an agricultural product. Terroir affects a unique signature of that region that differentiates it from other agricultural products produced elsewhere. Whether it be cheese, honey, bread or cider, and whether it be mass produced or factory farmed, terroir is what separates that product from all the others. This is the fundamental building block of great wine. Some argue that the idea of terroir exists wherever agricultural products are produced, but this is not so. Terroir only exists in those areas that have the characteristics that mark their agricultural products with uniqueness. Only certain areas produce wines that tell us from

whence they come, by expressing unique flavors and aromas and their ability to age, and continuing to demonstrate these characteristics for their entire lives. Terroir capable of producing great wine is rare throughout the world and exists in only a handful of sites. Climate is an important element in terroir as warmer climates muddle the terroir effect. Wines produce the most complexity and definition at the extreme edge of their climatic ability to ripen. Wines in extremely hot climates develop much too much alcohol and make them heavy and short lived. In climates that are too cold, ripeness can be a factor that can lead to green, thin and insipid wines. A temperate climate is needed to produce wines of quality. Adapting varietals to a climate is key. Geology is important to terroir, although the world has proved that great wine can grow on a myriad of different soil types from metamorphic, to volcanic to sedimentary. Soil is a living element of terroir and in order to produce great wines it must remain living. Bare soils, herbicides, insecticides and fungicides all conspire to remove the flora, fauna, fungi and microbes that make up the living soil. This life is essential for preparing the soil to give up its nutrients to the plant, for curbing erosion and for maintaining soil health for the long term. Soils must in turn be matched up with rootstocks and varietals to produce great wine. Topography is key to how vineyards drain and how vines are exposed to the sunlight. These should be viewed in light of the climate and the soil type. The Romans have © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


a saying, “Bacchus amat colles” (Bacchus loves the hills), and although hills and hillsides are excellent for growing grapes, valley floors and alluvial bench vineyards also can have uniqueness, complexity and intensity. Varietal adaptation is the key to success. Great wines can be made from many different types of grapes but only grapes adapted perfectly to the ripening conditions of their sites produce great wines. Don’t limit yourself to what other people are doing, study your site and let the terroir dictate. Human intervention is the key to realizing your terroir and enhancing what you are given by good solid agricultural intervention, clever farming and simple, smart winemaking. Estate is everything Wineries need to control their own vineyards and the quality of the grapes they grow. To control one’s own vines is to control one’s destiny. Purchased grapes are often purchased from farmers who have little or no interest in wine quality. They are paid by the ton and the more they produce the better they are paid. Where is the interest in producing quality grapes? In Napa Valley, growers charge high prices and often have lines of people willing to buy what are perceived as top quality grapes. It is difficult to be a grower and the solution to making it work is high production. However, for wine high production leads to low quality wines that lack, depth, texture, structure and intensity. Low yields to high yields There has been a lot of scientific work done on how vines can produce incredible yields and still produce good wines. In my 24 years as a winemaker I have never seen proof of this in any way! Low yields © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.

produce wines of great texture, structure and flavor. Old vines vs. young vines I think there is a great deal of truth to the age-old debate of whether there is something special to old vines that makes them better than younger vines. Old vines with less manipulation produce balanced, low crop loads that produce wines of structure, depth and density. This can be replicated in younger vines by controlling yields, irrigation and balance. Organic and biodynamic tactics I don’t care how you get there: organic or otherwise, there is no reason to use complex synthesized chemicals in your vineyard. Soil health is the most important factor; a living soil creates happy, healthy vines. Most minerals and micronutrients that feed the vineyard are broken down by microbes in the soil that are susceptible to herbicides, fungicides and insecticides. You don’t need them, so why use them? On the other hand, you also don’t need to dance naked in the moonlight while you bury your cow’s horn full of manure in the vineyard. This is to say that some aspects of biodynamics are great—compost teas, beneficial plants and insects, creating biodiversity—but avoid the dogma and find what works for you. Look around your vineyard, observe and react. What grows and lives in and around your vineyard? How does it interact with the vinescape? Find ways to use it and take advantage of the unique characteristics of your microclimate. Make the ripe picking decision In order to make the right picking decision you need to achieve perfect ripeness. This means that the grapes must be ripe to the taste to produce wines that will have


silky but abundant tannins, good natural balance and structure, and won’t be too ripe as to destroy the character of your terroir. Raisins are not grapes! Raisins produce wines that lack balance and lack ripe tannins. They will no longer evolve phenologically and are therefore useless in making wines. Raisins are “green” unripe berries that have been brought to maturity by excess sugar. This is not ripeness but neither are green berries. Picking berries because their acid or sugar content is at a certain level is not ripeness either. It’s about taste, not numbers Great wine is about aromas, flavors and textures and cannot be counted by analysis - they can only be tasted and evaluated. Great wines can be high in alcohol and low in alcohol, they can have high acidity and low acidity. Wines can appear “hot” that have low alcohol levels and wines with very high alcohol levels can appear perfectly balanced due to their structure. I have often heard from people that wines high in alcohol and low in acidity will not age. This is simply not true. Wine ages well because it is grown well, made well, is well structured and stored well. A 1947 Cheval Blanc which has an alcohol of close to 15% and a pH of 4.10 has aged gracefully for almost 70 years. Fermentations should be small and well-attended I prefer to do wild yeast fermentations by adding as little nutrient as possible to the ferments, however, I see nothing wrong with those that use packaged engineered yeasts. The important part about a fermentation is to finish the fermentation first and foremost. I take a Malcolm X approach: “By any means necessary.” Additionally, I like to do ferments in small vats or barrels, sometimes punching down, some-

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times pumping over depending on the origin of the grapes and the quality of the fermentation. The lees are the living elements of the wine and should be encouraged and incorporated into the wine in order to naturally refine and enhance it. Aging vessels overflow the cup with choice Vats, concrete eggs, wood containers and barrels of varying sizes make choosing and adapting a wine to an aging medium suited for its quality a simple process because of the great variety of choice. For their sanitation, addition of supporting tannins and interaction with air, new barrels cannot be beat; yet not all wines can support the highly marked, polished wines that emerge from new wood. Cleanliness is the most important thing to be aware of when aging wines. All too often great wines are spoiled by microbiological transformations. Don’t stop ‘til you get enough Wine needs to age and transform; as the French say, to be “raised” to its full potential. Knowing when to rack, refine or put a wine to bottle is the key to making great wine. Bottle without intervention So many wines are destroyed by intervention just before bottling: filtration, addition of fining agents, treatments against yeast and bacteria, or just simply not paying attention to oxygen, carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide. Don’t ruin your great wine by stumbling at the last step. Don’t let the cat out of the bag Once your wine is in the bottle let it come out of its bottling “funk” before you release it to market. It may be a long time before anyone drinks it, but patience will ensure your bottle shows not the effects of bottling, but rather the beauty of the vineyard.


Bottled Cocktails:

Today’s consumers are recognizing that there can be true passion and design in what they drink. This momentum, similar to the movement occurring in beer, has taken the cocktail world by storm. People realize they can find an alternative to the Stoli-and-tonics or Budweisers of the world. They seek options to better fit their palate and align with their belief of what a real beer or cocktail should comprise. Compared to larger macro houses that have long tried to dictate drinking trends, craft distillers have advantageously recognized the need to create something that the consumer actually wants; something to explore and expand their drinking. This not only applies when walking into their favorite watering hole, but also on the shelves at their nearest liquor and grocery stores. In particular, we see this trend moving into the category that will soon be divided into subcategories: the RTDs, or ready to drink. When exploring the idea of a crafted cocktail in a bottle we were met with quite a bit of skepticism. “The big guys have tried it, and it doesn’t work,” we were told. But exploring further we realized that they didn’t, in fact, craft a cocktail and bottle it; instead they created a drink to match a flavor profile similar to the cocktail in question. This was a very cost-efficient way to create some of these cocktails because sourcing all the spirits and ingredients is neither cheap nor easy. However, as the modern drinker will tell you, there is no substitute for the real thing. People aren’t looking for something that tastes like a Moscow Mule, they want an actual Moscow Mule. They want to feel, in the taste, the time that it takes to create a true cocktail in a bottle, which can only be duplicated by doing exactly that. You will not achieve that authenticity using malt liquor and flavoring.


The category will always have the lowprice, passionless products that simply offer an easy option for getting drunk away from a bar on something other than beer and wine. However, now we are starting to see very thoughtful and well-crafted cocktails made the right way and put into a bottle, giving people a high quality alternative to making their own cocktail, going to a bar or having to choose beer and wine when looking for a grab-and-go because they can’t stomach the current selections. This new category of RTDs that I like to refer to as “crafted bottled cocktails” are using real spirits (usually from a micro distillery), real juices, and ingredients that would be the same or similar to what you would get at your favorite bar. The educated consumer is taking time to read labels, treating their drinking like they do eating. They want to know how it’s made, who makes it, and if the ingredients are easy to read and understand.

welcome other passionate cocktail makers to continue to force stores to give us more shelf space and continue to educate the consumer on what can be achieved within a bottle.

The RTD trend will allow thirsty tipplers to grab a bottle of cocktails purely because they want a cocktail, not solely because they need something for their BBQ. At Crafthouse, this desire for the RTD category has been very strong in the summer months compared to the fall and winter. I believe the reason is because there aren’t many good options for a portable cocktail, so they grab what’s available when they really need something. With the growing trend in prepared craft cocktails, I believe it can be more of a yearround choice, just like beer and wine off premise. In the summer months it would probably be lighter spirit-based cocktails like our Southside, and in the winter some heavier/darker cocktails like the Manhattan. Then there are the good yearround tipples like the Moscow Mule. On behalf of Crafthouse, we are excited to

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Ewe’s Blue, Old Chatham Sheepherding Company Images courtesy of Phil Jimcosky and Old Chatham Sheepherding Company

Pairing Recommendations So, you’ve arranged an awesome cheese board with Ewe’s Blue, nuts, fruit; and, of course, bread. Now what? How about a little craft beverage to accompany your cheesy masterpiece? Beer: Try the Ewe’s Blue with Oude Tart, a Flemish-style Red Ale from The Bruery. The notes of dark fruit and toasted oak against the cheese will provide a unique pairing experience. Wine: Match the 2012 Sauvignon Blanc from Leaf & Vine Wine with the blue veiny goodness. The acidity of the wine will cut through the richness of the cheese and balance that famous blue cheese bite. Spirits: Pour some Hillrock Solera Aged Bourbon from Hillrock Estate Distillery with your cheese. Spirits may not be the first thing that comes to mind when pairing, but they can make magnificent partners, with bourbon and blue cheese being a classic pairing.

Old Chatham Sheepherding Company Tom and Nancy Clark started making cheese in 1993 at their farm in Old Chatham, New York. Twenty-one years later, they own the largest sheep dairy farm in the States and still have their hands in the action. Today they don’t just make awesome sheep’s milk cheese, but have blazed the trail for other sheep’s milk products such as milk and yogurt in the United States. Try the Ginger Yogurt; it is insanely delicious. Quick Snack Grilled Bread with Potlicker Apricot Ale Beer Jelly and Ewe’s Blue 1 campagne loaf (or any good country loaf), thickly sliced olive oil Potlicker Apricot Ale Beer Jelly (or your favorite apricot jam) 1 wedge Ewe’s Blue, crumbled


Start the grill according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Brush a light coat of olive oil on each piece of bread. Add to the grill and toast on each side. Spread with the Apricot Ale Beer Jelly and top with crumbled Ewe’s Blue. On the Tip Side Cheese should be served at room temperature. Be sure to take it out of the refrigerator one hour before serving.

Dossier: Ewe’s Blue • • • • • • • •

Location: Old Chatham, New York Milk: Pasteurized sheep’s milk Aged: 6 months Consistency: Soft, not runny Feel: Soft and moist Visual: Blue-gray veining Flavor: Floral and fruity with spice Bite: Subtle with a lingering finish

Good Bacteria Blue cheese gets its moldy deliciousness from the addition of special bacteria during the last phase of the cheese making process. Because of this, you can make blue cheesy goodness out of just about anything out there.

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We Live and Love What We Do

. . . in Gary, lndiana Article and photography by Colin Joliat


People assume brewers are passionate about beer, but Drew Fox might have redefined the word when he opened the 18th Street Brewery in Gary, Indiana. “I live in Gary. I’m proud of this city. I’m proud of what we do and how hard we work to get stuff done.” – Drew Fox That quote from Drew Fox tells you everything you need to know about why he chose Gary as the home of 18th Street Brewery. There were 2,822 breweries in America according the number last published by the Brewers Association. Not only is that the most in US history, but it’s more than double the number of breweries in Germany, the next-closest country on the list. Leading the charge are cities like Portland, San Diego, Boston and Chicago, all of which are well known for their support of the craft beer industry. You’ll notice Gary, Indiana isn’t on that list… yet. Gary is unlikely to ever be a volume player in the craft beer game, but Fox intends to at least be a positive mark on the map in a place otherwise known for its blight. You must first realize what Gary is to the outside world to truly understand what 18th Street Brewery means to the city. We’ve all heard of flyover states. Well, Gary is a speed-through city. You don’t just pass by on the way to Chicago. You plug your nose, pound the pedal, and pray to the good lord of hops that you don’t need to stop for gas. Most of what people know about Gary comes from annual lists circulated by sites like CNN and Forbes. These are typically found with such uplifting headlines as “America’s Most Miserable Cities” or “Most Dangerous Cities in the United States.” (Gary ranks number nineteen

and seven respectively, for those curious.) The murder rate and the fact that Gary is the birthplace of the Jackson Five are typically as much as people care to know about the city. The funny thing, in an obtuse sort of way, is that even with those current rankings things are actually improving in the city. In the mid-90s, the Chicago Tribune bestowed the catchy moniker of “Murder Capital” of the US upon Gary after recording a murder rate of 91 per 100,000 people. Somehow I doubt the mayor has a plaque on the wall for that one, and it’s a legacy that the city can’t seem to shake. Unlike the many cities that Starship built on rock and roll, Gary was built on steel alone. The city was founded nearly 100 years ago by US Steel as a home for their shiny new steel mill. There’s no clearer sign of the optimism that drove the city than their official seal. On it reads, “City of the Century.” That was a bold claim for a little upstart town just 25 miles outside Chicago, but it could be considered true for the first fifty years. Ironically enough, PBS is currently airing a special entitled Chicago: City of the Century. There’s no mention of Gary, not even from some guy talking about it at the craft service table in the background. For a better part of the 20th century, Gary was all sunshine and lollipops. The population grew to 178,320 people, the economy was thriving, and unicorns roamed wild in the park. It was a prosperous city like no other without a hint of what was to come. Like its cohorts to the east, Detroit

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and Cleveland, people believed the city would continue to thrive indefinitely. As history has shown, industrial cities were in for an international roundhouse kick to the economy. The downside to an industrial city is that things can get bad quickly when their one trick is no longer a treat. No one thought the US steel industry would ever decline, but at some point the rest of the world realized they too could make steel. While this was a boon to those countries’ economies, it was not good news to a small city on the south shore of Lake Michigan. This new competition would ultimately lead to the devastation of Gary. Citizens started to struggle financially as US Steel began cutting jobs. The once glorious city started to become less appealing, and many of the more affluent families headed for the recently developed cities outside of Gary. This only exacerbated the already major problem. The average income dropped dramatically, crime replaced all those birds that sang on princesses’ windowsills, and the unicorns that once galloped free all but disappeared. Thus began what looked to be a death spiral. Things went from bad to worse until they hit rock bottom. The jobs were gone, crime was up, and you would be hard pressed to convince anyone that the city was worth saving. Many people still have this view of Gary. Drew Fox isn’t one of them. “People don’t understand us, and sometimes it sickens me to my stomach.” – Drew Fox People judge Gary, but don’t see what Fox sees, and what he sees is something

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that doesn’t deserve to be written off. He sees hard-working people braving the dark, wintry mid-western conditions just trying to board a train and make a living. “There’s some hardworking motherfuckers in Gary, but instead you hear, ‘Oh, it’s a bunch of lazy people in Gary, everybody’s on welfare. Nobody works. Nobody does anything.’ It’s bullshit. Go stand at that train station at four in the morning and you’ll see these people go to work every day,” says Fox, who discovered this as he waited for the train to take him to his job in Chicago. Fox takes it very personally when people talk badly about Gary, and he sees it as his job to change people’s opinion. “We get a bum rap as it is. We have enough people in this city and in surrounding cities that badmouth what we do. Just drive down and see it for your own eyes,” said Fox. That’s not just lip service either. The landscape isn’t the desolate wasteland described by T.S. Eliot that many people picture when thinking of Gary. People walk the streets all afternoon with plenty of places to stop. From my stool in the taproom I could see a steady flow of people heading into the nearby Miller Pizza Station. The Miller Bakery Café, a former bakery resurrected as an upscale restaurant by people who love the city’s heritage, saw a lunch crowd almost on par with some Chicago spots. Several other stores stretched along the block went about their business with no concern for what you or I thought about Gary. Just up the street from the brewery is a gorgeous beach, but how many people know it’s there? Unless you’re an intrepid tourist, you’d likely have no idea. The


south shore of Lake Michigan is isolated sandy perfection, but if your only experience with Gary is the Indiana Toll Road, you’ve missed it every time. “I moved to Gary, Indiana for my family.” – Drew Fox Fox grew up in the Humboldt Park neighborhood of Chicago. Like Gary, it’s not a beacon of prosperity or safety. It does, however, have a rich cultural diversity whose affect can be seen in 18th Street Brewery’s “everyone’s welcome” policy. He also spent several years living in Pilsen, home to the 18th Street for which the brewery is named. The question is, how did Fox end up leaving the real “City of the Century” for Gary in the first place? The short answer is family. Fox believed moving to Gary was best for the sake of his family, an idea that might not sit right if you’ve only read about the city in Forbes. Eight years ago the Fox family boxed everything up and headed for hardened steel pastures in search of better schools for their children. They found them in Gary, and have remained there ever since. That also happens to be when Fox began the home brewing that would eventually lead to his wort-filled future. Fox continued working in the hospitality industry in Chicago after moving, most recently as the restaurant manager of Pierrot Gourmet in The Peninsula hotel, but Gary immediately became home. It doesn’t take long after meeting him to understand that he has a genuine passion for his new city, and nothing proves it more than his gamble to open 18th Street Brewery in the first place.

“We can’t teach you anything, but you’re more than welcome to come and brew with us and learn that way.” – Beejay Oslon There are a few different paths one can take to open a brewery. The most common, at least until recently, was to work your way from the sanitation crew to the head brewer of an existing brewery, gain the skills and beard necessary to succeed on your own, then to go off to fulfill your own ambition. Another route is the relatively new phenomenon of attending any number of college programs that are intended to help people launch their own breweries. What college kid wouldn’t want to major in beer? It’s probably a tough sell for many parents, but students learn both the science and the business side of brewing. While they probably don’t have the same amount of hands-on experience as someone who worked as an apprentice, students graduate fairly well prepared for what the industry will throw at them. The third, and likely least successful way, is to be rich. Too many people now see brewing as an easy and trendy way to make money. They like beer, so why shouldn’t they get paid for it? If they talked to any brewer who struggled to keep their business afloat while building a brand, they’d quickly realize that’s not the case. While admittedly money is a big help, it can’t actually make beer. The craft beer community thrives on a passion for making and drinking truly great beer, and its consumers are too smart and spiteful for a business-first brewery.

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Fox went for option one, but even still it was atypical. He didn’t cut his cloth in a big brewery like Goose Island like so many current brewery owners did. Instead, he honed his skills with an upstart Chicago group named Pipeworks Brewing Co. While in line at Three Floyd’s cult classic “Dark Lord Day,” Beejay Oslon and Gerrit Lewis decided that they should open a brewery. That kind of impulse might seem absurd, but it’s exactly the sort of passion that drives the craft beer industry. They started a campaign on Kickstarter to raise funds and more than a year later Pipeworks was finally open for business. Yet just because the doors were open didn’t mean they had everything figured out. Pipeworks was selling beer at an amazing pace for an upstart brewery, thanks in part to their “Friends With Benefits” program. It’s not as sexy as it sounds, but it’s brilliant. Part of their Kickstarter incentives package was that a certain level of investment would earn you first rights on new releases. People, myself included, essentially paid for the privilege of paying for beer. Like I said, brilliant. This built-in customer base meant that Beejay and Gerrit were constantly busy. Pipeworks doesn’t maintain a flagship beer, so nearly every batch was a new release, all of which sold out almost immediately. At this point they were desperate for volunteers to help out around the brewery. I almost went over to bottle myself, but someone convinced me day drinking at the beach was a better idea. Fortunately for our all of our livers and taste buds, Drew Fox didn’t succumb to the same degenerate pressure. That bottling session would set the wheels in motion for 18th Street to finally start brewing. Fox volunteered to help out that day and

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kept in touch with the guys after that. At this point he was trying to put together his plan for 18th Street Brewery, but he was running into roadblocks at every turn. When a couple weeks of vacation came along, he called over to Pipeworks to see if they needed any help. You read that correctly: Fox volunteered to work during his vacation. Beejay and Gerrit never saw Fox as just a normal home-brewer who toyed around with beer for his own amusement. He was a brewer without a brewery. They were happy to have the extra hands and invited Fox up. He brewed for them that same day. The batch ended up getting dumped, but the relationship was now concrete. It seems fortuitous that the first batch should be a failure because Fox’s grandfather always told him, “Your failures should always be your biggest successes. That’s how you learn.” Of course, the Beards That Be weren’t just going to hand Fox the keys to the kingdom. He started in sanitation, cleaning tanks and everything else in the brewery. He was joined by Brad Shaffer of Spiteful Brewing, who was dealing with some of the same issues as Fox in trying to get his Spiteful up and running. Together they became a brewing force, cranking out almost every single batch of beer that came out of Pipeworks for over a year. Both Fox and Shaffer’s breweries have gotten off the ground since their time at Pipeworks. Before finding a brick and mortar home, Fox was actually contract brewing his 18th Street beers out of both Pipeworks and Spiteful. The whole path to 18th Street Brewery’s opening in March 2014 is a perfect example of the lengths to which craft brewers will go to help others in their industry.


“We live here.We have to own it. This is our responsibility.” – Drew Fox The quick ascent from being relatively unknown in the Chicago brewing scene to creating some of the best beers in the city meant Fox could easily open a brewery in Chicago with the full support of the community. The process, while still not simple, had been streamlined by the large number of breweries that have opened in the past four years. That was never part of his plan, though. 18th Street Brewery might not have had a home yet, but it was a Gary, Indiana brewery, and no amount of success in Chicago was going to change that. Fox was rewarded for that dedication when Rate Beer named 18th Street Brewery the “Best New Brewery in Indiana.” Unfortunately the city wasn’t as gung ho about the idea as Fox and the craft beer community. At one point in the process things got so bad, both through local politics and the overarching public opinion, that Fox figuratively broke down. He couldn’t understand why people were so negative about the city and his plans. Fox said, “You have Lake Station. You have Valpo. You have East Chicago, Hammond, Highland, and Portage. You have all these other surrounding cities, and all people do is put the nail in the coffin of Gary. They don’t support it. Fuck, a brand new brewery opens up in Valpo, and the city is all over it. Brand new brewery opens in Griffin? They support it. But not us.” He never second guessed his decision though, not even when his wife suggested that they might as well pick up the brewery and move it to Humboldt Park where

they would be immediately loved and supported. And while that was perfectly true, again, it wasn’t in Fox’s plans. Fox didn’t want to abandon the city of Gary the way he feels so many other businesses did. That same US Steel mill that was the foundation of the city and employer of 30,000 now employs just 6,000 people. New businesses started moving into Gary, but not to rebuild the community. They just wanted to take advantage of a cheap place to get their company off the ground. These companies took the money and ran the second they were profitable, leaving even more holes in the already blighted landscape. Something had to be done to start rebuilding the community. Gary started to crack down on businesses utilizing their city solely as a proving ground the only way they knew how. The government created miles and miles of red tape to start a small business, and getting through was an absolute nightmare. Yes, it ensured any business that opened would be in it for the long haul, but it also made starting one of those businesses a Ninja Warrior course of paperwork and political posturing. Then came the light at the end of the tunnel. Fox said, “The new administration came in and the mayor announced, ‘We want small businesses,’ and I heeded the call. Finally we had a mayor that cared about small businesses.” The red tape, which is apparently much stronger than your average Scotch product, still wasn’t cut, but at least the city was now on his side. Craft brewing has always run up against the problem of having to educate their

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customers. That wasn’t the problem 18th Street faced, however. Theirs was much tougher. Officials in Gary had absolutely no understanding of what a brewery or taproom was or how they could be so valuable to the city. Back in the day, breweries were often the center of a community. They were places that people could get together, relax, share stories and truly interact with their neighbors no matter how spread out they were. Meanwhile I’ve never met my neighbors on either side, both of whom I share walls with. This social aspect was mostly forgotten, and breweries began to be thought only for the beer they produced and not the communities they built. Fox believes that original purpose of a brewery was exactly what Gary deserved, and that’s what he wanted 18th Street Brewery to be. It took a lot of hard work and an inordinate amount of explanation and convincing, but he was eventually able to show the political machine in Gary just how much a brewery could do for the city. He made them see the brewery as he did. It wasn’t just a place to drink; it was a destination for the citizen and something of which the community could be proud. And while Fox’s intention is to serve the people of Gary, the better selling point in City Hall was probably the money it could bring to the city. “Have thirst, will travel.” – Every craft beer lover When looking for a permanent home, Fox wanted to ensure the brewery was less than a ten minute walk from the train to help coax Chicago beer lovers to hop on down. He originally intended to find

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a spot in downtown Gary and had a few decent locations scouted. He was approached while looking in the Miller Beach neighborhood by a few of the other business owners. They had a clear understanding of what his mission was, and made it known they wanted him in their business district. After a long, hard, and nearly soul-crushing journey, 18th Street Brewery finally had a home: 5725 Miller Ave, Gary, Indiana. Not only was this local support for other small businesses a major asset to the brewery, it was also a stroke of luck for all those who will eventually take the train to have a beer. The location Fox chose sits just 0.2 miles from the Miller stop of the South Shore Train. That’s just one hour and six dollars away from downtown Chicago. Miller Beach is a neighborhood of its own and pitches itself that way. It actually began as an independent city but was annexed by Gary while the city was still on the upswing. Miller has been the lone bright spot in the depressed city, but their strategy for continuing and expanding tourism has been to ensure no one knows that they’re one in the same city. The folks of Miller have worked hard to create a small community with plenty to offer while at the same time separate themselves from the stigma of Gary. It could be argued that this method is actually the best interest of the city as a whole, but don’t try to tell Fox his brewery isn’t in Gary. It was once suggested that Fox promote 18th Street as a Miller Beach brewery and that he “shouldn’t use ‘the ‘G’ word.’” As you can imagine this suggestion did not sit well with his extreme pride in his city. 18th Street Brewery is in Gary, and he wants every to know it. While he respects


the other businesses’ marketing angle and their passion for the area, Miller Beach has no place in his branding. While others around him try to sweep Gary under the rug, he’s happy to add city character to his brewery. For all its hidden beauty, Gary is unlikely to become a major tourist destination for the general population any time soon. The beaches are likely to remain relatively empty, and with the exception of Chicago folks heading down for an afternoon, mostly locals will frequent the stores. Luckily, the modern day craft beer lover isn’t the general population, and certainly doesn’t need a tourist destination as an excuse to go have a drink. Case in point: look no further than Three Floyds Brewpub. “If you brew it, they will come.” – Anonymous whisper from the hop field Most people would not consider Munster, Indiana to be a destination city. It’s certainly not built for tourists. Yet every year 6000 people make the pilgrimage to Three Floyds Brewpub for Dark Lord Day. It’s not just special occasions that draw a crowd either. Boozehounds line up almost every week to get their hands on a case of Zombie Dust or other quickly dissipating stocks of beer the moment they get put on the shelf. Again, this is Munster. It’s a city that ninety-five out of one hundred non-Hoosiers couldn’t point to on a map of Northwest Indiana. Today’s craft beer drinker is happy to travel for great beer, and with Chicago’s love of trains, there’s nowhere more convenient then Gary.While the craft loyalists

might pale in comparison to the hordes of people flocking to Navy Pier in Chicago, it’s a significant influx for a small city like Gary. “Do you know how much outside money is spent in Gary?” asked Fox. “Almost none.” People spend plenty of money in various cities surrounding Gary, but very few people have been coming into the city to spend. That has changed with the opening of 18th Street. The official grand opening party for 18th Street Brewery was Saturday, March 15th, 2014. This day should stand out to anyone who overindulges for the sake of faux-Irishness once every year. It was the Saturday before St. Patrick’s Day, which is when most of the country, especially Chicago, elects to celebrate. If the plan was to show off the value that 18th Street could bring in from the outside world, this timing seemed questionable at best. What happened instead solidified everything Fox told the city that the brewery could do. It was a day when the Chicago River was dyed an unnatural shade of bright green, people partied in the streets, and bars offered countless hours of drinking for $30. Meanwhile, hundreds of people boarded the South Shore Train headed for Gary. While visitors were flooding into Chicago for the biggest party of the year, locals were heading to Northwest Indiana. No one was trying to avoid the chaos; they were simply drawn to a better offer. That was the opening of 18th Street Brewery.

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Between Chicagoans and Hoosiers, one thousand people came to the brewery that day, many of whom had probably never set foot in Gary. Thanks to the brewery, there were suddenly waves of hungry mouths to feed and people wandering into stores like Indie Indie Bang Bang, a new eclectic boutique. Again, you read that correctly. Gary has boutiques. While the city was willing to get on board because of the obviously large revenue it will bring in, the focus of the brewery is on the people of Gary. To say Drew Fox took the easy route to brand loyalty is disingenuous to his actual mission. Yes, he’s the only brewery in the city, but that’s not why he chose Gary. It wasn’t a strategic geographical decision to avoid competition. He felt the people of Gary deserved a brewery, and that includes all people. “We’re in business to do business… with everybody.” – Drew Fox Tourist destinations along Lake Michigan are typically filled with affluent families and wealthy travelers, and Miller was no different. You can probably imagine that a community that has built itself on the reputation of not being like the rest of Gary was less than hospitable to certain elements of the city. Remember, while the city is improving, poverty is still a major issue. There was a stigma that because people were on welfare that they wouldn’t spend money, and therefore they shouldn’t be hanging around. 18th Street Brewery, on the other hand, touts itself as a place for everyone. Fox wants everyone to feel welcome at his brewery regardless of which neighborhood they live in or what their level of in-

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come is. It doesn’t matter if they have $10 from Uncle Sam or a $10,000 daily trust fund allotment. Everyone’s welcome. This policy is what I meant when I noted earlier that Humboldt Park played a major role in the brewery’s mission. Currently around 32% of that neighborhood’s population lives below the poverty level, which is even lower than it used to be. The area was “as hood as it gets” according to Fox. He went on to say, “why should a man or woman’s wealth make them any less of a man or woman?” It’s not all about hugs and friendship for everybody. Fox isn’t some sort of hippie out to save the world. It’s about respect for other people, and that attitude is one of the reasons that 18th Street Brewery will thrive in Gary. Fox tells a wonderful story that perfectly depicts why welcoming anyone into the brewery is so important. “We get people that live in some of the housing projects, and you can always tell. They walk to corner then back down, questioning whether or not they should come in. There’s a guy who worked at the mill but got hurt and is on medical leave. He opens the door and say, ‘Can I come in dressed like this?’ I was like, ‘Dude, do you see how I’m dressed? I don’t give a shit how you’re dressed.’ He said, ‘No, but I just want to bring my lady in, and we wanna…’ I said, ‘You’re welcome here.’ This guy comes in every Friday night with his lady friend, and he’s the coolest guy you’ll ever want to meet. He said, ‘Dude, I’ve been waiting for a place like this for 10 years – just to bring my lady out and have a good time.’” It’s a powerful story, but it’s one to which many craft beer lovers might not be able


to relate. According to BeverageMedia. com, a 2012 consumer study showed that 80% of craft beer drinkers were white and 75% earned over $50,000. This group, myself included, has likely never experienced the feeling of being irrationally unwelcome in a store or restaurant. Luckily most people have the power of empathy. For those who don’t, picture yourself as Rodney Dangerfield from Caddy Shack standing in a room full of Ted Knights. 18th Street Brewery is intended to eliminate that consumer disparity. Whether low-income beer lovers choose to come in or not isn’t something Fox can control, but he can ensure that they know they have the option. Being the center point of a community means more than making rich and poor alike feel welcome. Hell, Target can do that just by altering the pronunciation of the second syllable based on social status. In order to truly be a focal point of the neighborhood, 18th Street needed to offer more than just a collection of bar stools. The gathering place he saw in his head when he first decided he wanted to bring the brewery to Gary wasn’t just a handful of people working their way down the tap list. Gary is a town built on families. This is true of almost every neighborhood and is especially the case in Miller Beach. In days gone by, at least according to TV, dads used to always stop by the bar after work and have a couple beers before heading home. That’s seldom the case today, especially considering the number of households in which both adults work. This new trend, however, certainly doesn’t

mean people don’t want to spend time at the bar after a hard day. As a non-existent wise man once said, the family that drinks together stays together. The real problem tends to be those pesky kids getting in the way of a good time. Sure, they were fun nine months before they were born, but now you can’t take them anywhere. Most brewery taprooms are 21-and-up for obvious and understandable reasons, so little Timmy isn’t going to be able to saddle up to the bar anytime soon. Plus it turns out that most parents don’t want their kids hanging out in a dark bar with a bunch of drunk people anyway. It’s shocking, I know. Where have all the cool parents gone? Unfortunately this usually means mom and dad are either stuck paying for a babysitter or drinking at Applebee’s. Nobody, and I mean nobody, wants to hang out and drink at Applebee’s. This problem quickly became clear to Fox, and he had a brilliant solution for 18th Street Brewery. There is an empty area next to the taproom that is to be converted into usable space in 2015. Fox has always stressed that he wants 18th Street to grow at a steady but responsible pace, so the plan was to build out the space only once they needed it. Fox already reinvests any profit back into the brewery, so it’s not as if there was cash lying around to play Bob the Builder just for fun. The brewery has already done so well though that it was easy to justify expediting those plans. Oh, I’m sorry, you’re already so popular that you need to expand? Talk about a good problem to have!

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The newly completed space has an industrial feel with a very simple and wideopen layout inspired by the city itself. Huge windows accounting for almost the entire outer wall allow in more light than you’ve likely ever seen in a house of booze, as well as a perfect view of a sign that reads “You Are Beautiful” directly above another that reads “18th Street Brewery: Voted Best New Brewery in Indiana 2013 by Rate Beer.” The whole room opens its non-existent arms to individuals or families who just wanted to relax and have a drink without feeling like they’re at a bar. It’s those people for whom this bonus space was designed. Miller is primarily a beach town, but the only places families could really go hang out were Miller Pizza Station and Miller Bakery Café. Fox saw this as an opportunity for 18th Street Brewery to invest in the community by giving these families another place to go. Anyone is welcome to come, sit at a table, and have a beer. If a dad is out with his daughter, they can stop in and he can have a beer without feeling like the sketchball who brought his kid to a bar. This new aspect of the brewery meant that food was now essential. Fox is a foodie, so a kitchen was always part of the plan for 18th Street. Now it’s become priority number one. They aren’t serving your standard pub fare either. Cheese absolutely belongs with great beer, but not when it’s rolled into sticks, breaded, and fried. He has far too much respect for his craft to serve food that detracts from people enjoying what they’re doing with beer. Fox said it will be, “simple but good.” What the means is great soups, salads and sandwiches along with craft cheeses and charcuterie. If you’re

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lucky, you might even catch them at a time when they’re doing a hog roast. “I didn’t understand them. They didn’t understand me.” – Drew Fox It quickly becomes clear that almost every aspect of 18th Street Brewery is meant as a reinvestment in the community, from its very placement in Gary to who and what they plan to serve. The question then is, does it make a difference? Can a brewery really help revitalize Gary or will it be successful on its own and do very little for anyone else? We’ve already seen what it has done for the existing establishments, but the effect doesn’t stop there. 18th Street is helping to change the very landscape of Gary. The struggles Fox went through with licensing, city support, permits, and every other road block that was thrown in front of him would be enough to break almost any entrepreneur’s spirit. If the city wants to continue attracting new small business, the process needs to change. Fortunately things might be a little easier for those who follow Fox to Gary. The area where 18th Street is located is part of the Northside Redevelopment Project, which with the help of the EPA, HUD, DOT and other agencies without simple acronyms, has been working hard to improve Gary. They’re hot on the heels of new businesses not to gentrify the area, but to point those small business in the right direction to help build on the existing community. Regardless of good intentions, that’s where some of the roadblocks began.


Many people assume any government involvement will make the process even worse, but thankfully things are different in Gary now. The newly hired commerce director Deardra Green-Campbell realized the problems businesses were having and wanted to change that. She called Fox on just her fourth day as commerce director. She wanted to know about his experience getting 18th Street up and running. Fox said, “She said she wanted to sit down and talk to about all the troubles we had and how they can streamline things to make it better. She wanted to find what we needed to be successful going forward, and that sort of thing is absolutely unprecedented in Gary.” That conversation lasted three hours, and it wasn’t the only one Fox and Green-Campbell have had. Fox is more than happy to tell the city everything they’re doing wrong in terms of small businesses because he knows that’s what it’s going to take to get more businesses to come to Gary. They know he’s not going away either, so there’s no point in ignoring his suggestions otherwise they’ll just have to hear them again in the next meeting. “I want to be where you’re at.” – Virginette Fitzpatrick Fox has had a big impact on the way the city treats small businesses, but an even better example is how he inadvertently recruited a baker from Chicago. Virginette Fitzpatrick was a pastry chef at the University Club of Chicago, but she longed to have her own place. She admired how Fox stuck it out through the nightmare and never changed course from his plan to have Gary be the brewery’s home. He told her he’d be happy to

offer all the support and advice he could to make sure she saw her dream become a reality. “That’s craft,” said Fox. “She’s willing to quit her job, one that she gets paid very well for, and pursue what she loves. That’s exactly what this industry is all about. I knew I had to help her however I could.” When he asked where she wanted to open her bakery, she said Gary. This is a woman in Chicago, a town whose people lovingly welcome a new cupcake shop every 72 hours and wait for hours in line for donuts, who wanted to open her business in Gary, Indiana. As happy as Fox was to hear that, he warned her about how much work was involved with bringing something brand new to the community. It didn’t matter though, she told Fox that he had paved the way, and she was going to follow that path in order to do what she wants to do. This was yet another chance for 18th Street to give back to Gary. The newly constructed room of the brewery was unused until noon every day, so Fox suggested Virginette Fitzpatrick use that space to open her bakery, Olive Street Sweets. She could bake in the 18th Street kitchen and sell her cakes and pastries right there. They would add coffee and really give the neighborhood something it needed. Most people take coffee shops and bakeries for granted, but Gary doesn’t have a true bakery where you can go in and order from the owner, have little Johnny’s birthday cake custom made, and enjoy a conversation with friendly people. There isn’t a great coffee shop that’s part of people’s morning routine either. Right now it’s cakes from a cooler and coffee from McDonald’s. Whether she sets up shop in 18th Street Brewery or finds a place of

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her own, it’s clear that Fox and the brewery are determined to bring those simple things to a community that absolutely deserves them. “I can walk out of the door right now and get shot in the head. That’s destiny.” – Drew Fox For all the great things that are happening in Gary right now, there’s no denying it’s still not the safest place to live. It makes those morbidly named lists every year for a reason, and Fox’s pride in the city doesn’t mean that he’s oblivious to the danger. He simply chooses not to let that affect the way he does business. “I walk down this street or anywhere in this city, and I don’t feel like someone is going to harm me,” said Fox. This was just after he told me that the police commissioner warned him of his new celebrity status and that the police couldn’t always be there to protect him. Fox doesn’t want the celebrity status nor does it suit his personality. He’d rather see the police protecting all the hard working people of Gary than spend an extra minute watching his back. Fox takes a pragmatic approach to the dangers of his city. He worries about his wife and kids and makes sure his employees get to their cars safely late at night. Beyond that, he takes life as it comes. Sound familiar? That’s because it’s no different than any other husband, father, or small business owner anywhere in America. The fact that 18th Street Brewery is in Gary doesn’t change a thing. “We live and love what we do.” – 18th Street Brewery Motto

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18th Street Brewery is a perfect example of just how much a brewery can do for its community that needs it if there’s a passion beyond hop glory. It’s impossible to overstate the passion that Drew Fox has for Gary. He didn’t adopt the city because it would be good for business. The city adopted him when he went looking for a new home for his family almost nine years ago. Since then he’s been searching for a way to truly make his mark, and he’s found it in 18th Street Brewery. Few people open a business in a location because they feel the citizens deserve it. That’s too selfless for business. It’s almost always about optimizing profit. Don’t believe me? Go to any Home Depot in America. Now look across the street, and you’ll probably be able to see a Lowe’s. Do people really need two mega hardware stores? No. These businesses follow the money. Drew followed his heart, and he is good enough at making beer to turn that into money. Whether Fox’s plan to help revitalize Gary ends up working won’t be seen for quite some time, but his impact within the city is already being felt. Every South Shore train that unloads a new batch of beer-hunting Chicagoans is another chance for the city to change people’s perception about it. Rarely do we think of craft beer lovers as agents of social change, but they will unknowingly become such the next time they hear someone badmouthing Gary. Each person that walks through the doors after questioning whether they’re allowed or not is one more person that feels welcome in their own home. And if all else fails, Gary can still hang its hat on being the home of the Best New Brewery in Indiana for 2103.


Want to know who is playing while they are brewing at 18th Street Brewery? Founder Drew Fox let CRAFT in on some of the bands that make it on his playlist.


By Erin Jimcosky Photography by Phil Jimcosky

CRAFT

COOKERY: BOTTARGA


What does a mechanical engineer do when he decides to change careers? In Michael Lassiter’s case, he becomes a top bottarga man in the United States with his company, Bemis & James Bottarga. For two years he has been working with his business partner, John Bemis Sears, to give this obscure Mediterranean delicacy a decidedly Floridian flare.

For those of you who don’t know, bottarga is a delicacy consisting of dried fish roe sacs and is often grated or shaved to be used as a garnish or topping, much as you would truffles or parmesan cheese. The flavor is salty, fishy (in the best possible way) and full of umami.

to warming. His method is simple: “Don’t handle it more than absolutely necessary” and you will end up with the purest end product. Taking something like bottarga and not screwing it up isn’t as easy to do as you’d think, but Michael manages it where many have failed.

Michael’s bottarga is made with mullet roe straight out of the Gulf of Mexico that they purchase from local fisherman. The bottarga is then transferred, cleaned, and dry cured in a cold space. This ensures that the end result is bottarga with true flavor that isn’t disturbed by off notes due

It is because of this care that his bottarga has earned admiration from some of the coolest chefs in America today. Chefs like DC’s Jerimiah Linghorn, Ian Boden of The Shack in Staunton, VA, and Sean Brock of Husk in Charleston have found a place for it in their kitchens.

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Grilled Caesar Salad

Croutons

2 heads romaine, sliced in half olive oil sea salt freshly ground pepper 1 recipe Caesar Dressing (see below) parmesan cheese, grated 1 recipe Croutons (see below) bottarga, shaved (for garnish)

2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 garlic clove, smashed 2 c. bread, cubed 5 fresh basil leaves, sliced freshly ground pepper sea salt

Heat your grill according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Brush the romaine halves with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place on the grill cut side down and cook until wilted and grill marks appear. Remove from the grill, slice and place in a bowl. Toss with the freshly prepared dressing and top with parmesan, croutons, and bottarga shavings. Serve immediately.

Caesar Dressing ¼ c. olive oil 2 Tbsp. fresh squeezed lemon juice 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard ¼ c. bottarga, grated 1 garlic clove, minced ½ tsp. Worcestershire Sauce* ½ tsp. freshly ground pepper ½ tsp. fresh thyme leaves Just before serving, combine the ingredients in a bowl and whisk until completely emulsified. *For a craft alternative, try Bourbon Barrel Worcestershire Sauce.

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Warm the oil with the garlic in a skillet over medium heat. Add in the bread, basil sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brown on all sides. Use to top the Grilled Caesar Salad.

Sautéed Cauliflower 1 head cauliflower cut into florets the size of popcorn 2 Tbsp. olive oil 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 sprigs thyme sea salt, if needed freshly ground pepper, to taste ¼ fresh lemon 2 Tbsp. bottarga, grated Blanch the cauliflower for 2 minutes in boiling water. Remove and shock in cold water. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add in the cauliflower, thyme, and garlic and sauté until it is cooked through with a bit of color. Turn off the heat and season the cauliflower with salt, pepper, bottarga and a squeeze of lemon then toss to coat. Serve immediately.


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Fennel and Bottarga Pizza

Bottarga Crostini

3 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more to drizzle on at the end 1 sweet onion, sliced thin 2 garlic cloves, shaved pinch sea salt 1 small fennel bulb, shaved (reserve a few fronds to garnish) 1 recipe pizza dough (your favorite) whole milk ricotta cheese freshly ground pepper, to taste 2 tsp. fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped 1 Tbsp. bottarga, shavings

Slice a baguette and toast the pieces with a bit of olive oil. Shave off a few pieces of bottarga and arrange them on top of the crostini. Sprinkle with fresh olive oil and serve.

Warm the olive oil in a medium sized pot over medium-low heat and add in the onions, fennel, garlic, and a pinch of salt. Cover then cook, stirring every ten minutes or so until the onions have become translucent and begin to take on a little color. At this point, remove the onions from the heat and set aside. Preheat the oven to 450°F and grease a baking sheet. Roll out your prepared pizza dough until thin and place on a baking sheet. Dollop the ricotta around the dough ensuring every piece will have cheese. Top with the onions, and a sprinkling of pepper. Bake the pizza for 20 minutes or until the crust is golden and crisp. Remove from the oven and top with the parsley and bottarga shavings. Slice and serve while hot.

Old School Bottarga with Pasta Cook your spaghetti until al dente (6 to 7 minutes) in a limited amount of salted water. Remove the pasta from the water, but don’t toss out the water. Toss the pasta with olive oil, a little pasta water, and grated bottarga, then eat with gusto.

Michael’s Favorite Ways To Use Bottarga • • • • •

Grated on melon Shaved onto daikon Grated on celery, radishes, fennel in a chopped salad with toast Shaved with a jalapeño on top In compound butter

The Lowdown Here are a few things that everyone should know before buying and using bottarga • Brined bottarga is inferior bottarga • There is a lot of illegal/unsafe bottarga imports, make sure your bottarga is dated and bears a lot code • Keep the preparation simple • When cooking add bottarga at the end, so the flavor doesn’t disappear with the heat • Use as a garnish or topping


Spirited Recommendations: Regional Gin Images courtesy of St. George Spirits, Dry Fly Distilling, Caledonia Spirits

During the summer, images of green grass, blue skies and sun-baked beaches are pervasive. For lovers of craft beverage, those visions also include that special beverage we gravitate to when the season strikes. And this time of year, there is nothing more refreshing than gin. Here we showcase three gins that capture the essence of their region right in the bottle. We also got in touch with the men responsible for bringing these stellar gins into the world to see how they like to take their gin.

St. George Spirits: Terroir Gin St. George describes this gin as “an ode to the Golden State,” and there couldn’t be a finer tribute. The brainchild of master distiller Lance Winters, the ingredients for this earthy and herbaceous drink are foraged from the slopes of beloved North Coast icon, Mt. Tam. The flavors of Douglas fir, California bay laurel, and coastal sage truly evoke California in your glass. Old School: “I love our Terroir Gin for exactly what it is, so my favorite classic preparation is a Martini. Extremely dangerous; one usually leads to several more. It tastes just like a martini should,” says Lance. New School:“A Bramble is my favorite seasonal cocktail with the Terroir. The briary quality from the seeds of freshly muddled blackberries amplifies the sense of landscape and makes a beautifully integrated drink.” Standard G&T: “I’m a big fan of a G&T with lemon.”


Dry Fly Distilling: Gin This Northwestern-style gin from farm-to-bottle distillers Kent Fleischman and Don Poffenroth is a welcome departure from the old standard. The crisp, clean flavor is light in juniper, but shines with bright flavors of apple and hops. We spoke with Kent to get the lowdown on his favorite Dry Fly drinks. Old School: “A Ramos Dry Fly Gin Fizz from the Yucca Taproom.” New School: “I like the Trout Fisherman’s Release that they serve at Hammersley’s Bistro in Boston made with Dry Fly Gin, port, orange juice juniper and singed rosemary.” Standard G&T: “I’m very particular about this. Tonic, in my opinion can overwhelm gin, so I found a nice tonic—Jack Rudy. Add Dry Fly Gin over ice and a tiny, tiny splash of their tonic, plus a lime garnish.” Caledonia Spirits: Bar Hill Gin Vermont’s Caledonia Spirits stormed onto the scene with their Bar Hill Gin a few years back and it remains a favorite among bartenders. A showcase for raw honey and juniper from Vermont, this gin is a gin like no other. Old School: “A Martinez is wonderful with Barr Hill Gin, and even better with Tomcat,” says Caledonia head distiller Ryan Christiansen. New School: “The Blackened Lemon G&T might be considered fancy or complicated, but it’s beautiful and delicious. The recipe comes from our Director of Sales, Alex Weiss, based in Brooklyn. Blacken a few lemon wedges on a grill. Muddle one wedge of blackened lemon with one wedge of fresh. Add ice, gin, ice, and a splash of tonic. Stir it up once or twice so the bits of char are floating around in the glass and garnish with charred lemon wheel.” Standard G&T: “Perhaps skip the T; just Bar Hill Gin and a squeeze of lime? Maybe it’s the lack of craft tonic available in Vermont, but it’s very rare when I’ll add tonic to BHG.” © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


BEER PICKS Images courtesy of Shelton Brothers, Russian River Brewing Co, Brooklyn Brewery, Notch Brewing and Triplehorn Brewery

BEST BEER TO SIP AROUND A CAMPFIRE: “A classic German Pilsner or a Cantillon Gueuze, followed with a dram of Balcones’ Baby Blue.” - Chip Tate, President and Master Distiller at Balcones

PERFECT PICK AFTER A LONG DAY OF SWIMMING: “I grab a Notch Saison every time I go surfing.”

BEST BEER TO SIP WHILE HARVESTING GRAPES AND MAKING WINE: “We always have a refrigerator packed with beer. I have a case of Pliny the Elder at all times… I’m a hop-head. We also work in stumbling distance of Triplehorn Brewery. I love their Landwink IPA.” - Chris Gorman, Proprietor at Ashan Cellars, Co-Owner at The Giant Wine Co. and Owner/ Winemaker at Gorman Winery

- Maggie Campbell, Head Distiller at Privateer Rum

BEST BEER FOR A BBQ: “For day-long BBQing, I like the Brooklyn Sorachi Ace. That’s what I drink, anyway.” - Dave Wondrich, Mixographer/Author/Legend/Rockstar

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Although the term “green wine” may seem simple and innocuous at first glance, you’ll soon find yourself facing a variety of definitions. Some will point you to Portugal’s vinho verde, some to grüner veltliner (as grüner means “green” in German), while others are simply referring to the youthful or aromatic aspects of the wine itself. Today, however, we’re here to talk about green wine with a capital G: the alternative, eco-conscious defenders of mother nature. Green wine is made by winemakers in pursuit of healthy vines, sustainability, and winemaking practices that ultimately give back to the environment and community.Yes, some of these buzzwords have a bad rap in the wine world, but these days you don’t have to compromise on quality by going green. We’ve put together a list of alternative options and wine styles to help you make smarter purchases, reduce your carbon footprint, and help save the planet. How’s that for responsible drinking? Kegged Wine: Green Barrel Wine

Tetra Packs

Restaurants and individual consumers alike are beginning to ditch the traditional bottle in favor of kegged wine. Kegs cut down on the staggering environmental cost of producing and transporting glass bottles, and Green Barrel Wine is one such way to get kegged wine in your own home or office. Pick from their selection of wine and they’ll supply the hand-tap and barrel filled with a 9 liter EcoPack (totaling a case, or 12 bottles of wine) straight to your door. There’s no special setup required, so you can tap that keg and get to drinking in no time.

Tetra packs have recently migrated over from the world of fruit juices and are giving the glass bottle a run for its money. These lightweight plastic containers tout mega benefits like resealability, transportability, freshness and environmental friendliness. Tetra Packs keep the liquids inside safe and secure during transport and use only a tenth as much energy as glass bottles. Plus, they’re shatterproof and highly portable, which makes them perfect for picnics, sports games and the occasional board meeting. Check out: Bandit Wines

Check out: Green Barrel Wine

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Organic Wine Not to be confused with “wine made from organically grown grapes,” a less rigorous classification, organic wine is a wine free of artificial chemicals, fungicides, herbicides and pesticides. To qualify as a bona fide organic wine by the USDA, grapes and other ingredients (like yeast) must be certified organic, and there can be no added sulfates during the winemaking process. Check for the USDA seal of certification on the bottle.

known to survive a frost while neighboring vines perish, and the resulting wines speak for themselves. Check out: Reyneke Wines Natural Wine This growing trend takes on a laissez-faire approach: nothing added, nothing removed. The entire process is geared to be as hands-off as possible; winemakers use natural yeasts while avoiding filtrating, fining, and adding any more sulfur dioxide than absolutely necessary. It’s an exercise in artful neglect, and letting the wine do its thing creates results that are sometimes funky, sometimes glorious, and an overall homage to the natural talents of our awesome planet.

Check out: Tablas Creek Biodynamic Wine Taking organic one step further, this process treats the vineyard like a self-sustaining organism. Biodynamic winemaking strives for a harmonious balance of all animals and insects, tree and plant life, elevation, rainfall, sun exposure and water sources, and may include the occasional dung-filled animal horn buried under full moonlight. Sure, there’s a bit of drama involved, but biodynamic vines have been

Check out: Natural Wine Company; Jauma Drink Local When all’s said and done, the best way to lighten the environmental load of your next bottle of wine is to keep it local. Avoid superfluous packaging and transportation costs by buying direct from your regional winemakers. If your local wine scene leaves much to be desired, a great way to minimize your impact is to do some research on how the wines arrived. Avoid buying bottles that traveled by air or by truck, and opt instead for wines that came by boat on their way to your dinner table. Check out: Your friendly neighborhood farmers’ markets or local wine trails.

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THE PROOF IS IN THE Written and photographed by Sean Z. Paxton

It was a dark stormy night‌ A banana cream pie and a banoffee pie entered a craft beer bar‌ After several pints of Hefeweizen together, it ended up leading into a one-night stand... Fast forward a bit, and the offspring? Twins! A Deconstructed Banana Hefeweizen Pudding Pie and a Hefeweizen Beeramisu! Understanding flavors in a beer style is key to using it in cooking and pairing. The Hefeweizen beer style is unique and exciting. Banana, clove, vanilla, malted barley and wheat all converge on the palate and showcase the yeast in this ale. Taking these inherent flavor attributes and creating a dish to accentuate the flavors is the concept behind these dessert recipes. The banana is a super food, full of not just one type of sugar, but three: sucrose, fructose and glucose. This makes it a great hangover cure, refilling the depleted system with good nutrients and giving a balanced energy to revive the debauchery from the prior evening of indulgence.

To read more on all the great benefits of having bananas in your diet, click here. These recipes are core recipes that can be used for many other dishes. The Banana Hefeweizen Pudding is great simply scooped into a bowl and eaten with a big spoon; or used as a mousse (with whipped cream folded into it) and layered with beer-soaked lady fingers; or finally, used in a trifle. This pudding recipe is also great for a filling that can be layered between a yellow or white cake. The Hefeweizen Sour Cream Caramel Sauce recipe is also a wonderful base for many other creations. The caramel can be used to sweeten whipping cream, poured over vanilla bean ice cream, used as a ripple in the same ice cream (if making it from scratch) and/or mixed into a milkshake to make a sinful Caramel Banana Ice Cream Milkshake (a few scoops of vanilla bean ice cream added to a blender with a ripe peeled banana, a few spoons of caramel and a splash of whole milk and whirled together).


Deconstructed Banana Hefeweizen Pudding Pie While each element of this dessert is decadent, layering them all together is pretty surreal with a pint of Hefeweizen to enjoy with each bite! Makes: 8 portions Honey Barley Blondie 1/2 c. butter, unsalted, European style or higher butterfat, room temperature 1/2 c. honey, local variety 1 c. sugar, light brown 2 eggs, extra-large at room temperature 1 c. flour, all-purpose 1 c. flour, barley 1 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. salt, kosher 1/8 tsp. clove, preferably freshly ground In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk or spatula paddle attachment, add the room temperature butter, honey and brown sugar. Cream the butter with the sugars on high for 3–4 minutes until light and fluffy. Add one egg at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a spatula and mix well. In another bowl, sift together the all-purpose and barley flours, baking powder, salt and ground clove. Turn the mixer to a low speed and slowly add the flour mixture, mixing until the batter is fully incorporated. Turn off the mixer and add the batter to a 9 x 9 inch greased pan. Level out the batter with a spatula and place into the center of a 350°F preheated oven for 25–28 minutes, or until the center is set and the edges are golden brown. Remove from the oven onto a rack and let cool to room temperature. Once cool, carefully flip out the Blondies onto a cutting board and cut into ½ inch cubes. Set aside. These can be made a day in advance, if needed. © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


Banana Hefeweizen Pudding 1 c. Hefeweizen style wheat ale 1 1/2 c. cream, heavy, preferably organic 1 banana, very ripe, large, peeled 1 c. sugar, white, preferably organic 1/3 c. cornstarch 1/2 tsp. sea salt In the pitcher of a blender, add the Hefeweizen, 1 cup cream, peeled banana, sugar, cornstarch and salt. Purée the mixture for 30 seconds to make a smooth liquid. Pour this mixture into a metal bowl and place on top of a pot of boiling water (double boiler) with about 2 inches of just simmering water. Whisk frequently until the pudding is thick and smooth, about 10–12 minutes at 170°F. Remove the bowl from the heat and place a sheet of plastic wrap over the surface of the pudding to prevent a film from forming on top. Place into the refrigerator and chill for at least 2 hours. Once the pudding has set and is chilled, whisk the remaining ½ cup of cream until a whipped cream consistency has been achieved. Then, whisk the pudding to loosen it up a bit and fold in the whipping cream to create a mousse with a silky smooth texture. Return back to the refrigerator to chill.


Hefeweizen Sour Cream Caramel Sauce 1/2 c. Hefeweizen style wheat ale, such as Sierra Nevada Kellerweis 2 c. sugar, white 1/4 c. corn syrup or agave, light 1 clove 1/2 c. cream, heavy or whipping, preferably organic and not ultra-pasteurized 3 Tbsp. sour cream or crème fraîche In a medium sized pot, add ¼ cup of Hefeweizen, sugar, corn syrup and a clove. Place over medium heat and using a spatula, mix together until the sugar has dissolved and the liquid is transparent. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Cook the mixture until it turns a light caramel color, reaching a temperature of 300°F. Remove from the heat and carefully add the cream and sour cream/crème fraîche. The sugar will boil and steam vigorously. Once it settles down, use a whisk and add the remaining ¼ cup of Hefeweizen; mix well. Place the pot back over the heat and cook for another minute. Remove from heat, transfer to a pint size Mason jar and let cool. Brûlèe Banana 1–2 bananas, medium ripeness, with just a touch of green around the top stem 2–3 Tbsp. sugar, white Peel the banana and slice it into equal size rings, somewhat on the bias. Place these slices onto a sheet of doubled-over aluminum foil. Sprinkle the cut side with a uniform amount of sugar. Using a torch, slowly wave the tip of the flame over the sugar crusted banana until the sugar melts and starts to caramelize. Repeat with the remaining slices.

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To Assemble Deconstructed Banana Hefeweizen Pudding Pie: For individual portions: Start with cleaning 8 ½ pint glasses or 8 ounce Mason jars. Make a small layer in the bottom of each container with the pudding (a few spoonfuls, or transfer the pudding into a Ziplock bag and cut a small corner off, or pastry bag). Top the pudding with 5 pieces of the Honey Barley Blondie, then a few spoonfuls of the Hefeweizen Sour Cream Caramel Sauce and a slice of Brûlèe Banana. Repeat all the steps once more, to create 2 layers. Then garnish the serving with a Brûlèe Banana. This dessert can be made in advance, up to 3 days. Just re-Brûlèe the top banana again to create a toffee crust. Store in the refrigerator until ready to serve. For serving a crowd: Try to use a large clear glass bowl with tall sides and create layers of Pudding/Blondie/Caramel/Banana. Repeat until all the ingredients are used, portioning to create full layers. Arrange the Brûlèe Bananas on top and chill until service. Hefeweizen Beeramisu Traditionally, tiramisu is made with lady fingers soaked in a mix of espresso and rum. This unorthodox version will not ‘pick you up’ but relax you! The complexity of the yeast-driven beer shines in this dessert with a wonderful balance of banana, clove, caramel and just a touch of cinnamon to round out this easy after-dinner treat. Serves: 6–8 guests 1 recipe Banana Hefeweizen Pudding ½ c. cream, heavy, preferably organic 1 recipe Hefeweizen Sour Cream Caramel Sauce 1 package ladyfingers (about 36 individual cookies) 24 oz. Sierra Nevada Kellerweis or other Hefeweizen style ale 1 tsp. cinnamon, ground, Ceylon variety


Begin this variation by making the Banana Hefeweizen Pudding recipe as described above. Once the pudding is ready, increase the whipping cream by an additional ½ cup and whip that to a soft peak consistency. Fold this into the cooled pudding and place back into the refrigerator, until everything else is ready to assemble. Make the Hefeweizen Sour Cream Caramel Sauce recipe and let it cool to almost room temperature. This makes pouring the caramel easier, as it flows better and will not clump. This can also be made in advance and rewarmed in a pot of hot water for 10–20 minutes. Have a clear glass trifle bowl or other decorative bowl ready for a large group preparation, or have smaller dishes (ramekins or half pint jars) for individual portions (a half pint glass or other smaller tasting glass works very well). Pour a bottle of the Hefeweizen into a pint glass and place the pint glass into a bowl. Dip a ladyfinger into the pint glass, submerging the cookie completely for just 2 seconds, then remove and arrange into a single layer into the serving container of choice. The bowl is there to catch any foam over, as the nucleation points from the cookie will cause the beer to become rather lively. Repeat this process, topping off the pint glass with the second brew when needed, until a single layer is formed. The ladyfingers can be broken up into two pieces if needed to fit into any corners or smaller areas.

there is some caramel. Continue the process until the serving dish is full, topping the final layer with more caramel (there will be leftover caramel sauce that can be used in a variety of applications). Finish the dish(es) off by putting the cinnamon into a fine strainer and tapping the edge lightly against the palm of your hand to evenly dust the top of the dessert with a thin layer of the spice. Lightly wrap the dessert(s) with plastic wrap and place into the refrigerator for at least an hour and up to a day in advance. This is a dessert you want to prepare ahead and let rest. The ladyfingers will find equilibrium with the beer, transforming from crisp cookie to an almost moist cake consistency and the flavors will all meld together. To serve, remove from the refrigerator at least 20 minutes before serving to your guests and unwrap. Serve as is or garnish with Brûlèe Bananas (recipe above) or fresh sliced bananas.

Next, pour about half of the Banana Hefeweizen Pudding folded with the whipping cream across the soaked ladyfingers. Using an offset spatula, spread out the pudding into a single layer. Next, drizzle the slightly warm caramel evenly over the pudding, making a lattice pattern, so that with each bite of the finished dessert

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Spirited Abroad – Edinburgh Gin By Anne Rogers Images courtesy of Spencerfield Spirit Company My first encounter with Edinburgh Gin was a few years ago and not in Edinburgh at all, but rather an hour’s drive up the coast in St. Andrews. I was at a 20s-themed garden party hosted by a girl much more posh than myself, having been invited by a friend of a friend. The music was loud and conversation was dull, so I’d escaped through to the kitchen where the booze was kept. The hostess had stocked up on this new gin purely based on its art deco style label to coordinate with the theme of her party. I didn’t drink much gin at the time, finding most of it too bitter for my taste, but was promised by a bartender friend that this was something new and different from the ubiquitous Bombay Sapphires and Gordon’s gins that drenched most St. Andrews house parties. He was right. Edinburgh Gin is a crisp and piney gin, with ginger and citrus notes that balance out the juniper. It was beautiful. Currently I study brewing and distilling in Edinburgh, which means study time often involves hands-on experience and extracurricular tasting sessions (finally, I can justify spending the majority of my time in pubs and cocktail bars across the city). The course has taught me so much not only from a technical and chemical standpoint in brewing and distilling procedures, but also regarding the variations in goals between corporate and

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craft production. I’ve caught a glimpse of the corporate machine, and am happy to be able to say that it’s not for me. I’ve met so many like-minded people both in my course and in Edinburgh; it’s wonderful to have the broad selection and variety across the board with small, local producers being represented more and more. When I embarked on a column about craft spirits, I went back through my personal favorites and Edinburgh Gin was the obvious choice for this inaugural issue. Edinburgh Gin is one of many spirits produced by Spencerfield Spirit Company, a family-run business set up by Alex Nicol and his wife Jane at Spencerfield Farm House in Inverkeithing, Scotland. Spencerfield is roughly a half hour’s drive north from central Edinburgh and overlooks the Firth of Forth and Forth Road Bridge. Spencerfield prides itself on being “whole-heartedly dedicated to providing a quality niche alternative to the more conventional mainstream brands.” Alex worked in new product development and marketing in the alcohol industry for 30 years (chiefly with Scottish and Newcastle, Whyte and Mackay, Glenmorangie, Beefeater Gin, Laphroaig, and Cadbury Schweppes) before leaving to run Spencerfield with Jane. The team at Spencerfield is small, consisting of the Nicols, master blender Richard Paterson,


marketing director Jane Camlin, bookkeeper Susan Patterson, landscaper Ronnie D, and the Nicols’ daughters Hannah and Hattie, who help out on their holidays from university. The Nicols are firm supporters of the Scottish craft industry because it gives consumers more choice and a chance to learn how products are made. Currently, they source British spirits and bring them to Inverkeithing for blending, yet there are plans for a distillery to be built in May 2014 to further localize production. The new distillery will also include a center for innovation in gin production, including research into older distillation methods, recipes, and Scottish botanicals. Edinburgh Gin is currently produced with a thoroughly Scottish recipe of milk thistle, heather, pine, and a tiny bit of Scottish juniper. Juniper grows better in Mediterranean climates rather than wet Scotland, but dedicated gardeners can cultivate hardy plants that lend a particular crispness to gin once distilled. Edinburgh Gin hit the market in 2010, when the Nicols anticipated the current gin revival. Today, they have expanded their line to include Edinburgh Raspberry Gin, Edinburgh Elderflower Gin, and Edinburgh Spiced Orange Gin. Edinburgh Raspberry Gin is infused with locally-sourced raspberries from Perthshire while Edinburgh Elderflower Gin is infused with hand-picked elderflowers. The components of Edinburgh Spiced Orange Gin come from a bit further afield, incorporating Valencia and Seville oranges, lime and cinnamon. The raspberry, elderflower and spiced orange varieties clock in at only 20% ABV, which makes them an ideal spring and summer cocktail enhancement. Once the new distillery is up and running, the Nicols plan to launch Edinburgh Gin Cannonball, a premium high-strength gin (Edinburgh Gin holds a respectable 43% ABV strength and Cannonball promises to pack more of a punch). © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.

I’m of a mind to stock up on all the varieties for the summer season, especially after receiving Jane Nicol’s favorite cocktail recipe: 1 oz. Edinburgh Gin ½ oz. Edinburgh Raspberry Gin 2 ½ oz. Cawston’s apple and rhubarb juice ¾ oz. Elderflower Cordial (or Edinburgh Elderflower Gin) ½ oz. lemon juice Apple and rhubarb juice is one of those fantastically British things that I had never encountered before moving to the UK. My humble Atlanta beginnings didn’t prepare me for things like tablet (a fudge/ toffee hybrid made of condensed milk, sugar and butter), cranachan (a kind of parfait made of layers of whisky, cream, raspberry and toasted oatmeal), or the habit of pronouncing aluminum as “al-umin-i-um” with an extra syllable. If you do not live in an area where apple and rhubarb juice can be purchased, and do not feel confident enough to juice your own rhubarb, feel free to use regular apple juice. Jane also recommends a cocktail recipe of a thimbleful of Elderflower Gin topped up with cava, which is excellent for those days when you feel a little bit fancy and a little bit lazy and can’t be bothered doing cocktail measurements. If you aren’t a gin person (to which I say, you just haven’t met the right gin yet), Spencerfield also makes some lovely whiskies, although Sheep Dip and Pig’s Nose don’t sound quite as lovely as The Feathery. Sheep Dip’s name is a nod to the old West Country colloquial term for whisky, apparently strong enough to delouse a sheep. Pig’s Nose refers to the smoothness of the whisky – “soft and smooth as a pig’s nose.” Released this year, The Feathery is an homage to Scottish craftsmanship (the first golf balls were called “the feathery” as a result of their composition of feathers, tar, and


bird skin). All three are superb blends that are certainly worth a try; Sheep Dip in particular was recommended by Ian Buxton in his book, The 101 Whiskies to Try Before You Die (2010).

Regardless of your preference for gin or whisky, Spencerfield Spirit Company’s commitment to the craft industry is to be commended. Their innovative flavor development and eye for blending make them one to watch in the coming years, especially once their new distillery is up and running this year.


On a Monday morning in late February, John Benefiel was discussing Raleigh Rum Company, the business he founded with his two partners. He was speaking particularly about the company’s focus on sourcing their raw material from local growers. They’d located several regional sugarcane farmers who produce molasses and Benefiel hoped the indigenous ingredient would lend a distinctly North Carolinian stamp to the company’s white and spiced rums, making it unique in the way Jamaican and Puerto Rican rums showcase their provenances. Benefiel went on speaking about the role of rum in a craft industry dominated by vodkas, gins and whiskeys, as well as about the art of taking time to perfect the process and taste of the spirit. Benefiel had even spent several hours a few evenings earlier at a local beer hall handing out Raleigh Rum swag, talking to friends, patrons and anyone who would listen about his company’s product. All of this was particularly interesting because Raleigh Rum Company has yet to make a single bottle, or a single drop, of rum. They have no permits or licenses in place, no facility in which to distill, and most importantly, no still. What they did have was a strong campaign on Kickstarter.com, the internet crowdfunding platform that allows investors—most often friends and family but also persuadable strangers–to donate money to various creative initiatives, including upstart distilleries and wineries. As Benefiel was speaking, Raleigh Rum Company had garnered pledges from well over 100 contributors and the campaign had earned more than $12,000 on the way to its goal of raising $14,800. With only four days left in the campaign, Benefiel and his partners felt confident, but also nervous. Kickstarter campaigns are all-or-nothing propositions—if the

monetary goal is met by the deadline, money pledged is available almost immediately. If it’s not, if it’s $100—or $1— short, the individual or company is left empty handed. Each campaign is permanently archived, and failed endeavors dot the website like tombstones crowding forgotten hills. Commercial distilling and winemaking, and to a lesser degree brewing, are notoriously formidable businesses to crack into, even on the smallest of scales. Initial outlays for equipment—stills, barrels, tanks, hoses, crushers, destemmers—are onerous, and the tangle of permits and licenses required before production can begin are often dizzying. Banks, naturally, are reluctant to loan to start-ups the large sums necessary given that up-front costs are high, projections for market demand are usually speculative and any return on investment is likely years away since end products like whiskey and wine need time to mature before they can be released. Add the fact that most prospective business owners are essentially enthusiasts with little or only tangential production experience beyond homebrewing, who must also maintain their day jobs, and it makes sense that entrepreneurs are turning to crowdfunding resources to finance their nascent businesses. Crowds offer more strength in numbers, after all, and also more belief. “This is going to get us over the biggest hurdle,” Benefiel says of the fundraising campaign, noting that, if their goal is met, they’ll be able to purchase a larger 50-gallon pot still than initially planned. Nevertheless, he wouldn’t know for a few more days if Raleigh Rum Company would become a reality or remain a dream. For most, the dream of making craft spirits or wine begins on a subconscious level, with a taste or experience that may move shade-like through the memory but even© Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


tually becomes a presence impossible to exorcise. For Brendan Simpers, winemaker and owner of Willow Wine Cellars in Underwood, WA, the passion was born in tasting rooms in Virginia while in college. He soon realized the idea of making wine himself was consuming all his other ambitions, and upon graduating from col-

“That was a very stressful time,” he remembers. Fortunately, pledges surged late and by the September deadline Willow Wine Cellars had earned $27, 331. Waves of relief broke over Simpers as he realized that individual donors, some who he would never meet, had helped make his dream job possible. “I couldn’t have done it without the 86 contributors who contributed to our Kickstarter,” he says. Yet even with that nest egg, and given the nature of the wine business, Willow Wine’s future has yet to be fully hatched, much less take flight. “That was enough to get us going,” he says, but there will be no revenue “until we get the wine in the bottle (and) hit the road and get some distribution.”

lege made the pilgrimage to California to throw himself into the business. Following a series of tasting room jobs in Oregon and Napa Valley, including over two years at Beringer, Simpers moved to the Columbia Gorge region of Washington in 2011 and founded Willow Wine. However, the resources he needed to invest in his own winemaking, namely grapes and equipment, was elusive, so Simpers turned to Kickstarter. When he began his crowdfunding campaign last year his initial goal was $15,000, but after speaking with others with similar experiences he was convinced to raise the ask to $25,000 to help cover associated costs like Kickstarter’s 5-percent take and money transfer fees. With just days left, the campaign was still short of the goal, and Simpers wondered why he hadn’t settled for the more attainable goal of $15,000. He would have had that money in pocket, but now he saw the very real possibility that he might get nothing.

Simpers spent the majority of the funding on purchasing grapes—typically the largest budget item for craft-level vintners—from the 2012 and 2013 vintages from area growers. He’ll be bottling approximately 200 cases of wine this year, and if all goes well he’ll make just enough money to buy a few more pieces of equipment and marginally increase grape volume next vintage. The wines include a 2012 cabernet sauvignon and a 2013 merlot. What he hopes will define his winemaking, at least initially, is albariño, a minerally, aromatic and often spicy white grape from northwest Spain that’s rarely planted domestically. Simpers fell in love with the grape the first time he tasted it in his native Virginia, and for his 2013 vintage, using debut fruit from 3-year old albariño plantings, he fermented the grapes in small (45 gallon) barrels and then stirred the wine on the lees to texturize it beyond what’s typical for the grape. “I’m loving it right now,” he says, and believes he has something special. “I want to make the best albariño in Washington, if not the entire country.” © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


Virtually every alcoholic beverage, no matter how industrially produced or distributed, began as a hand-crafted product; in the family tree of wine, spirits and beer, grape farmers and moonshiners and homebrewers are the Adams and Eves. If Michael Claypool’s Clay Pigeon Winery, an urban winery in Portland, ever becomes nationally known, he’ll remember as its seed a single barrel of pinot noir he made in 2009. Shortly after releasing that first wine—just under 50 cases worth—he launched a crowdfunding campaign on the website Indiegogo.com with his wife, an artisanal cheesemaker and author of several books on the subject. Unlike Kickstarter, entrepreneurs on Indiegogo that don’t meet their goals still receive pledged funds, whatever they happen to total. Claypool set a goal of $21,000 and received just over $14,000. That money allowed him to purchase a larger load of fruit for the 2011 vintage culminating in three barrels worth of Willamette Valley pinot noir and Rogue Valley syrah, which quickly sold out. He currently has the 2012 vintage in barrels and will be releasing them later this year. Claypool, like Simpers, was on the opposite coast—in his case, New York—when he felt a love of wine flower into a consuming drive. Already working full-time in digital media, he began adding night and weekend employment, first at a wellknown boutique in Manhattan, then as a sommelier at Dan Barber’s Blue Hill at Stone Barn restaurant, in order to get closer to wine. Eventually he moved to Sonoma County to work harvests at a small winery until he felt ready to make the winemaking jump.

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If expressed local demand for his wines is any indication, Claypool’s journey across careers has been a success, despite the unlikeliness of a relative novice making a distinguished pinot noir in one of the world’s great and saturated pinot noir microclimates. There are several explanations. Claypool says he came to Portland at a time when other urban wineries and small producers were reacting against the tides of pinot and experimenting with alternative grapes, creating space for new pinot voices. Through the popular restaurant he operates with his wife—Cyril’s at Clay Pigeon Winery—he has the opportunity to interact directly with his clientele, sharing with them his fervor while expounding upon the character of the wines. Claypool also takes time to age his pinot longer than others might. The current vintage will have been in barrels almost two years before it’s released. “That changes the experience with that wine,” he says. “Some of those higher notes pinot has when it’s younger start to drop, it starts to get a little heavier and weightier, and it softens in a way. It’s a style that harkens more toward Burgundy.” Claypool envisions a model production level of 1,500 to 2,000 cases a year distributed throughout the northwest and in select markets like New York, Chicago and Los Angeles. “There seems to be a magic number of about 1000 cases that you need to produce to be viable as a business,” he says, a point where the wines are modestly profitable yet still allows the winemaker hands-on control.


Jason Jorgensen, owner and distiller at Alley 6 Distillery in Healdsburg, CA, also dreams of someday taking his product out of northern California and into national distribution and beyond. From early experience, however, Jorgensen knows that getting there will require perseverance and attention to detail. Like Claypool, he used Indiegogo to help fund his business; unlike Clay Pigeon, Alley 6 met its fundraising goal of $10,000 earlier this year, though that has yet to result in the production of whiskey.

Jorgensen became impassioned about whiskey while bartending, and later realized that distilling was basically one small step beyond homebrewing. “My craft beer interest sparked my interest in whiskey when I found out I could take this beer I made that I wasn’t really fond of and put it through a still and make somewhat decent whiskey,” he said. When he began blind tasting friends and families on his experiments they regularly guessed the least favorite sample was his. It rarely was.

Since last summer, Jorgenson has been cutting through the thicket of regulatory paperwork necessary to operate a distillery in California, a process made more difficult because his business is the first of its kind in the city of Healdsburg. He hopes to get all his permits in place— from the city, state and federal, as well as making sure his facility is engineered to code—by the summer. Then there will be the matter of getting the still up and running and fine-tuning a first run of rye whiskey that will have to age from six to 12 months before it’s ready for bottling. And that’s not to mention the fact that despite attaining his crowdfunding goal, starting a distillery from scratch has a way of making $10,000 look like petty cash.

A whisky-tasting trip with his wife to Scotland proved to be a revelatory experience, fundamentally moving him from mere aficionado to disciple. From the misty glades of the Highlands, there could be only one path forward. Specifically, the visit to the motherland unlocked his creative perspective, especially in the way each distillery sourced grain, sourced water, and produced and processed their whiskies to drastically different outcomes and flavor profiles. Using that as inspiration, Alley 6 plans to work with local grain growers to produce “estate” grain bottlings of bourbon, tap into area springs for different water profiles and malt its barley in-house, perhaps drying the grain over local grapevine clippings.

It’s a good thing he’s a “scrapper,” as he describes himself. “We went into this with about $10,000 in our bank account and an attitude that we’d be able to make this work,” Jorgensen says of he and his wife, also his business partner, “but as we go we’re realizing it’s going to cost more.” He estimates the tally will be more in the $75,000 range.

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For Jorgensen and Alley 6, it’s been an arduous process, but he knows there are no shortcuts on the path to fulfillment. “For us, we’re purists when it comes to whiskey and what we will put our name on,” he says. “There are people who do vodkas, gins and tequilas first and then their whiskey comes (later), but what we’re striving to do is just whiskey—our whiskey.”


By the end of the week in late February, it became official—Raleigh Rum Company would indeed be a real thing. John Benefiel and his partners had met—and exceeded—their Kickstarter goal. That was the good news. The complicated process of permitting and licensing was only beginning, rudimentary equipment (namely, the still) would have to be purchased, an adequate space would still need to be leased and retrofitted to meet safety ordinances, and the talk of perfecting the art of making rum would turn from theory to practice. And in all likelihood more money would need to be raised. Nonetheless, there appears to be a new rum distillery in the craft game, and Benefiel, admittedly optimistic about the timeline, hopes to have the first run of white and spiced rum in bottles and bars by late fall. In the end, no matter how much money is raised or is still needed to develop each business, it is just that spirit—the optimism and belief the proprietors have in themselves and their product—that will define their success.Whether any of these upstart craft productions can capture a cult following and explode into the next Diamond Creek Winery or Old Rip Van Winkle remains to be seen, and is probably beside the point. In the true spirit of craft—finding pleasure in the art of creating, retaining a controlled and handson approach, following one’s own path and remaining true to the vision–each of these endeavors have already made it.

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DO GOODERS: SPEED RACK FOUNDERS IVY MIX AND LYNNETTE MARRERO By Erin Jimcosky Photos courtesy of Speed Rack Bartender Jill Webster of Harvard & Stone has just won the Speed Rack cocktail competition in San Diego. The crowd doesn’t just cheer politely then leave, but goes completely wild. The music is blasting, sparklers are crackling, and everyone is dancing. That’s when Lynnette Marrero pulls Ivy Mix up onto a go-go dancing plinth to soak in what their weeks of hard work with local contacts has achieved. The atmosphere is electric with their reverie. They have created this overwhelming moment, created opportunities for female bartenders, and helped fight breast cancer in the process. To understand how they got to this moment you, have to go back a little ways and see what life was like in the bartending industry for women in the early days of the cocktail revolution. At first, the cocktail business in NYC was gender blind. Bar owners wanted good help and didn’t care if your body wasn’t built for suspenders or mustache growth. If you could do the job well, you were in. As time wore on and trends began to change, ladies often found themselves relegated to the side of the bar that required a notepad, tray and pen.

The bigger problem was that only a few women were getting attention from the press, so it appeared that women bartenders were scarce. Don Lee—of PDT, Momofuku, and Cocktail Kingdom fame—had asked Ivy to coordinate the ladies of LUPEC (Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails) to work the back of the house at the 2010 Manhattan Cocktail Classic. Women were scarce at the event, so she ended up working demos out front instead. She found herself inundated with media requests, not only because of her mad bartending skills, but because, like Sasquatch, they thought she was a scarce creature despite there being a kitchen full of awesome lady bartenders prepping ingredients. After that night, Ivy mulled the idea of raising the profile of female bartenders by holding a cocktail competition. At first it was just a joke, but when she couldn’t shake the idea, she approached Lynnette and things got serious. The idea wasn’t just to promote the competitors and make a few bucks; it was to use that money to make a difference in the community. Speed Rack is a traveling cocktail competition for fierce female competitors. They


are not only faced with an opponent in a March Madness bracket style competition, but must serve luminaries of the industry perfect classic cocktails. The atmosphere is raucous and exhilarating with competitors furiously working to craft their cocktail while the audience, decked out in war paint like crazed sports fans, scream and wave signs of support. Collegues both male and female, have thrown their support behind the project lending a hand in everything from scouting locations, bar backing, and courting entrants.The spectators were having fun and new talent was being discovered, and the most important thing of all? They were raising a meaningful amount of money to fight breast cancer.

In their first year alone, Speed Rack met over 200 bartenders across the country and raised over $69,000. To date that number is over $250,000. Thanks to Speed Rack, Share Cancer Support Hotline is fully funded, so they can finally take calls from people in need 24 hours a day, and underserved women have received access to mammograms. They may not have been certain in the beginning that they would succeed, but one thing is: the world is a better place because of Speed Rack.

Š Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


BOOZY POPSICLES WITH UNCLE BEEFY

Photography and recipe by Bradford Crowder


More commonly known as “Uncle Beefy,” Bradford Crowder is a blogger/ baker/artist and all-around Renaissance man. He is the founder and editor of the design blog, “The Bedlam of Beefy,” where he’s been writing about art, design, baking and fashion since 2007. Uncle Beefy’s tasty recipes and beautiful images first caught the eye of CRAFT Publisher Cori Paige in 2011. More recently, she introduced the staff here at CRAFT to the musings and sugary goodness of Beefy, and we’re officially hooked.

We recently asked Bradford if he could beef up one of his tasty recipes with a little craft liqueur. The result is this Buttermilk Blackberry Crumble Popsicle with Clear Creek Marion Blackberry Liqueur, and it is deliciousness unleashed. Boozy Buttermilk Blackberry Crumble Popsicles Makes 10 popsicles Buttermilk Ice Cream Adapted from Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones 5 large egg yolks ¾ c. sugar 2 c. heavy cream 1 c. buttermilk 1 tsp. vanilla In a heatproof bowl whisk together the egg yolks and half of the sugar (6 tablespoons) and set aside. Combine cream and the remaining half of the sugar in a nonreactive saucepan and place over medium-high heat. Allow it to barely simmer, stirring occasionally, and then reduce the heat to medium. Carefully remove a ladle full of the cream mixture and add to the

egg yolks while whisking continuously. Continue this step a few times to bring the yolks to temperature and then add remaining cream mixture and whisk to combine. Return this base mixture to the pan and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture has thickened and can hold a clear line when you run your finger through it with the back of a wooden spoon or spatula. (Bring it to about 160°F on an instant-read thermometer, if available.) Remove from heat and run through a fine-mesh strainer (to remove any egg bits) into a clean container. Place the container into an ice-water bath and allow to cool, stirring occasionally. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for at least 2–3 hours or overnight. (If the custard base is not completely chilled, it may cause the ice cream mixture to break when adding the buttermilk. So don’t be hasty!) Once fully chilled, add the cup of buttermilk and vanilla to the custard base and mix until completely combined.

© Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


Macerated Blackberries

Graham Cracker Crumble

1 pt. fresh blackberries 1 Tbsp. confectioner’s sugar ¾–1 c. Clear Creek Marion Blackberry Liqueur

¼ c. graham cracker crumbs 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 tsp. sugar Dash of salt

Wash blackberries and place in a small bowl. Sprinkle in the sugar and pour liqueur over the berries, stirring very gently, make sure that all the berries are soaking in liqueur. Set aside for at least 30 minutes.

Melt butter and combine with graham cracker crumbs and sugar in a small bowl. Salt to taste. Completely chill graham cracker mixture in the refrigerator.

Blackberry Ice

Gather up all completed components. In a popsicle mold, place a small amount of the buttermilk ice cream base in the bottom of each mold. Add two or three of the macerated blackberries. Sprinkle with some of the graham cracker crumble and top with a little more of the buttermilk ice cream base. Freeze.

1 ½ c. blackberries ¼ c. water 2 Tbsp. light corn syrup 3 Tbsp. sugar juice of ½ a lemon 3 Tbsp. Clear Creek Marion Blackberry Liqueur (reserved from macerated blackberries) In a small nonreactive saucepan combine blackberries, water, corn syrup, sugar and lemon juice. Cook over medium-high heat until the fruit has broken down and the mixture has thickened slightly (10– 15 minutes). Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a small heatproof container, cover, and chill completely. Add Clear Creek Marion Blackberry Liqueur to base mixture and stir to combine.

© Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.

To assemble popsicles:

Once that layer is frozen, add a layer of the blackberry ice mixture, a few more macerated blackberries, and freeze completely. Finally, add a little more of the crumble and top off each mold until full with the buttermilk ice cream base and freeze. To remove your popsicles once they are fully frozen, quickly dunk your mold into a hot water bath a few times until you can pull the popsicles out by the stick.


Musicians on Craft with Bill Ricchini Images courtesy of Bill Ricchini and Summer Fiction

Bill Ricchini is a singer/ songwriter who leads the Brooklyn-based indie band Summer Fiction. Their song, “A Cold Wind Will Blow Through Your Door,” was featured on the Grey’s Anatomy Soundtrack in 2007. Ricchini’s music has also been featured movies like 2012’s Stuck in Love, Safety Not Guaranteed, 2010’s Barry Munday, and the highly anticipated The Fault in Our Stars. Past solo records released on Sony Transdreamer include Ordinary Time (2002) and Tonight I Burn Brightly (2005), both were widely praised by press topping many critics’ yearly Top Tens (Rolling Stone, Salon).


If there’s one thing we love at CRAFT as much as delicious craft food and beverage, it’s music. We thought we’d bring those worlds together for you to find out what it’s like eating and drinking on the road with America’s musicians. In our first installment we feature singer/ songwriter Bill Ricchini, who leads the indie band, Summer Fiction, based out of Brooklyn, NY. Their music has been featured on primetime television and some of their albums have made Rolling Stone’s Top Ten. Bill recently let us in on a few of his secret places at home and on the road. What is your favorite hometown craft taproom, bar or coffee shop? Here in Williamsburg, I really like Barcade for craft beer. For coffee I dig the little Polish bakery at my corner, which goes nice with a kielbasa and egg sandwich. Is there a specialty market that you frequent? Definitely Bedford Cheese Shop and Despana in SoHo, and Bottlerocket for wine in Chelsea/Union Square. What venue makes you feel at home when you’re out on the road? I feel most at home out at Johnny Brenda’s in Philadelphia, or at The Mercury Lounge in New York.

What beverage or meal do you miss from home while you’re on the road? The oysters at Maison Premier, the pizza at Paulie G’s, and the nachos at The Commodore. What cities have the best craft beverage offerings? Philly for beer, New York for cocktails. I’ve also had some great wines in San Francisco. What’s your best recovery beverage for mending vocal chords and resting up after a tour? I love tea with some milk. The Brits got me on that when I was recording the new Summer Fiction tracks. Do you have a favorite craft beverage that you can’t get in your hometown? I have a hell of a time finding Southern Tier Pumking in the fall in New York. Who would you pick, dead or alive, to ride shotgun with you on a cross-country road trip? My grandfather, who passed when I was in college. Or, if someone famous, I think Dylan is the obvious choice.

What’s your secret to getting a bit of fresh air and craft products amidst a sea of roadside diners and late night takeout? To keep it fresh, it’s always good to get your veggies in at a Whole Foods. I don’t tour too much but when I do, I dig the Waffle House. Is there a particular music venue with a terrific craft beer selection? I’d say Johnny Brenda’s or the POPE in Philly. Union Pool in New York is cool as well. What is your favorite way to unwind after a show? Dancing to “Deceptacon” in my kitchen. © Hundred-to-One LLC 2014. All rights reserved.


CRAFT September 2014 issue:

From the Land

CRAFT by Under My Host® No.1: Inaugural Issue  

Between these pages we will travel to Gary, Indiana, and discover hand forged knives from Athens, Georgia. Please read along with us. We ho...

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