THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | MAY/JUNE 2016
Pulling the strings 1 to entertain you – from Brahms to Bernstein – Tivoli's popular series of concerts, Summer Classical, offers a broad range of the genteel genre
Jousting for your 1 attention in June: Now in its fourth year, CPH Stage has established itself as one of northern Europe's premier theatre festivals
Denmark’s only English-language newspaper | cphpost.dk
Hamlet's in the house! Live Shakespeare in the castle every day this summer
COPENHAGEN IN 48 HOURS: Plotting a course through a capital can be daunting, so why not let us take charge and guide you to the best it has to offer 4
Von Fressen If JFK visited the capital, he would have made a beeline here 22
Sole d'Italia Forever sated at this source of eternal sunshine 23
A celebration of the capital's culture, charisma, cuisine, cocktails and coffee Explore 20.000 years of highlights Free admission – see natmus.dk
SPRING AT THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MUSEUM
THE FUSION COLLECTION
AMAGERTORV 4 COPENHAGEN
G E O R G J E N S E N .C O M + 45 701 2 3 420
SØNDERGADE 1 AARHUS
THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | CPHPOST.DK
48 HOURS IN COPENHAGEN ESBEN SALLING
BY ANNA CLARKE
DAY ONE 9AM Discover the real Danish pastries Meyers Bageri, Store Kongensgade 46, Cph K; open Mon-Fri 07:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 07:00-16:00; meyersmad.dk For a quick on-the-go breakfast, the bakery of choice is Meyers Bageri, a chain started by the famous Danish chef and restaurateur Claus Meyer. It offers a wide selection of freshly-baked breads and deliciously sweet goods. Try either the Kanelsnegl or the Kanelsnurrer to get your cinnamon fix while you’re here. STINE CHRISTIANSEN, SKOVDAL FOTO
10AM Rent a bike bycyklen.dk/en; firstname.lastname@example.org Nine out of ten Danes own a bike, so if you really want to live like a local you should do the same. Copenhagen has over 350 km of cycle paths which are raised up from the road away from other vehicles and really safe to cycle on. Cycling tip: always overtake on the left if you don’t want URSULA BACH
to get flattened by a speedy Dane. Bycklen is the city’s bike hire scheme for visitors and tourists. The white electric city bikes feature GPS navigation and can be rented out through a ‘pay as you go’ system, with a single trip costing 25kr per hour. Over 100 docking stations are dotted all over the city; most of them are positioned near a Metro or bus station, so you will always have easy access to one. Alternatively, there are bike rental shops on every street corner, so you can also rent a normal bike while you are here. Prices usually begin at 75kr for a day’s rental and 350kr per week (+ deposit).
11AM Explore the waterfront bycyklen.dk/en; email@example.com Nyhavn (new harbour) is the quintessential Copenhagen spot, with its picturesque harbour filled with old sailing ships and the colourful facades of the 17th century houses that line the
waterfront. During the summer, the multitude of restaurants and bars by the canal are filled with a mixture of locals and visitors, making the area a hub of activity. Its close proximity to the Royal Theatre, the shopping street Strøget and the royal residence Amalienborg Palace make it ideally located for further exploring. Be sure to drop by No. 20 Nyhavn while you are there as it was the home of the famous Danish children’s author Hans Christian Andersen.
THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | CPHPOST.DK THOMAS STEEN SØRENSEN
It’s a tranquil way to see Copenhagen’s major architectural gems from the comfort of the canals. On a bright day, choose the open-topped section of the boat – the guide will instruct you on the city’s history in either English or Danish and sometimes another third language. The tour picks up at Nyhavn and Gammel Strand daily.
1PM Spot of retail therapy Strøget – the longest pedestrian street in Europe at 1.1 km – stretches from Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square) to Kongens Nytorv square. The busy thoroughfare is lined with a mixture of luxury shops like Gucci and Louis Vuitton as well as
12PM A watery perspective Nyhavn 3, Cph K; from April 30-June 23, 09:3018:00; adults 80kr, children 40kr; stromma.dk Nyhavn is also the starting point for various canal tour excursions down the city’s waterways. The hour-long grand tour takes you to all the
major sights: the Copenhagen Opera House, the Black Diamond Library, Amalienborg Palace, Christiansborg Palace, the old Stock Exchange and the iconic Little Mermaid. You will also meander down the canals of Christianshavn and get a great view of a baroque masterpiece, the Church of Our Saviour.
copenhagencard See M0re. pay leSS.
Danish high-street favourites such as the Lego store and Illum department store. Every midday the Royal Guards march from Rosenborg Castle down Strøget to Amalienborg Palace. It’s a quaint sight to behold and it cements the belief that Copenhagen truly is a chocolate box city.
Free access to 73 museums and attractions Free transport by train, bus and metro in the entire metropolitan area one adult can bring along 2 children under the age of 10 for free www.copenhagencard.com
THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | CPHPOST.DK MIKKEL HERIBA
2PM Take your pick Torvehallerne, Frederiksborggade 21, Cph K; open Mon-Thu 10:00-19:00, Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-18:00 & 11:00-17:00; torvehallernekbh.dk An upscale covered market in the centre of Copenhagen that houses over 60 different culinary hot-spots. The glass market, as it is locally known, is divided between two steel and glass halls and hosts a mixture of local and international foods: anything from Danish smørrebrød to Spanish tapas. In between the hustle and bustle of market traders, visitors should stop by Coffee Collective for a caffeine fix, Gorms’ Italian style pizza and sample posh porridge from GRØD.
3PM Urban greenery
Øster Farimagsgade 2C, Cph K; grounds open daily April 1-September 30, 08.30-18:00, Palm House 10:00-15:00; botanik.snm.ku.dk Just a couple of minutes walk from Torvehallen, you will discover the Botanical Garden, an oasis of calm and tranquillity in the heart of a busy city. The garden is the ideal spot for a post-lunch wander in amongst the 13,000 different plant species that make up the lush grounds. In the middle of the garden lies the old Palm House, a beautiful glass conservatory dating back to 1874. It houses a mixture of tropical and subtropical plants including orchids, cacti and other succulents; its narrow, cast-iron spiral stairs lead up to a walking passageway at the top, so visitors can get a bird's eye view of the greenhouse from above.
4PM Late afternoon in trendy Nørrebro Øster Farimagsgade 2C, Cph K; grounds open daily April 1-September 30, 08.30-18:00, Palm House 10:00-15:00; botanik.snm.ku.dk Just across Dronning Louises Bro (Queen Louise’s Bridge) lies Nørrebro, the city’s hip neighbourhood, a cultural and ethnic mash-up of small antique shops and design-led stores coupled with kebab takeaways. Stroll through the beautiful Assistens Cemetery where some prominent Danish figures have found their final resting place: Hans Christian Andersen, Nobel prize winner Niels Bohr and the philosopher Søren Kierkegaard among them. The streets Elmegade, Birkegade and Jægersborgadde should be your next pit-stops: a collection of vibrant roads lined with independent
penhagen. Try the 275kr menu which includes seven different small dishes for sharing. For a nightcap, try Vinhanen (Baggesensgade 13), an unpretentious wine bar that boasts high-quality wines in a relaxed and intimate setting. Plus it’s the only bar in Nørrebro to claim ownership of a wine gun! The Barking Dog (Sankt Hans Gade 19), the winner of the IBYEN best bar accolade back in 2014, offers craft beers and a wide selection of delicious cocktails – it’s a popular favourite with the locals.
10AM Love and other drugs Bådsmandsstræde 43, Christianshavn boutiques and tasty brunch places. Try the Acne Archive on Elmegade for some discounted Scandinavian women’s wear and original minimalist jewellery from Ladyfingers on Jægersborggade. Stay on that vibrant street for dinner at Manfreds (No 40), an establishment started by Noma alumni Christian Puglisi and Kim Rossen. The nofrills restaurant centres its attention on offering rustic-style cuisine using the highest quality biodynamic materials from all over Denmark. Meals are accompanied with ‘natural’ wine, meaning the grapes have been fermented only by naturally existing yeast – the first bar to do so in Co-
“You are now leaving the EU,” declares the entrance sign to Christiania, a hippie freetown founded in 1971 by a group of squatters and artists. The 84-acre commune straddles the eastern district of Christianhavn and sits on an abandoned military base. It has its own laws, flies its own flag and even has in its own currency, the Løn – all totally outside the jurisdiction of the Danish state. This self-governing town is brimming with colourful street art, cosy cafés, art galleries, music venues and historic buildings – many of which have been built by the residents themselves.
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The very essence of
Bør nydes med omtanke
No one really has any idea when it first appeared. And no one knows who invented it, either. But everyone agrees that it is the very essence of Danish cuisine.
Smørrebrød – don’t try saying it – just taste it
Smørrebrød means “open sandwiches” and, as the name suggests, it isn’t just one dish but many. In fact, it embraces a vast number of variations of fish, meat, salads and vegetables and cheese on rye or white bread. Real smørrebrød is a pleasure to the eye and to the palate. But be careful - smørrebrød comes in almost as many different sizes as there are variations and it is more filling than you might think! The Danes eat smørrebrød all year round as a traditional lunch dish. It is also popular on festive occasions together with the family or friends. And smørrebrød is almost always accompanied by Danish beer and schnapps. Copenhagen boasts a whole range of restaurants which specialise in smørrebrød – typical Danish open – faced sandwiches. They are ancient, traditional establishments, often located below street level in cosy basements and cellars. Service at Copenhagen smørrebrød restaurants differs in style from that at normal eating places and can be an experience in its own right! Welcome to the traditional Danish kitchen! Velbekomme – Bon Appetit!
KANAL - KAFEEN Frederiksholms Kanal 18 Tel 3311 5770 www.kanal-cafeen.aok.dk Café Petersborg is one of Copenhagen’s very oldest restaurants with a history which dates all the way back to 1746. The cuisine is typically Danish and the restaurant has always made it an honour to serve good, traditional Danish food at reasonable prices. The menu has extended to include a range of foreign dishes which have become part of the Danish kitchen. Many famous Danes and foreigners have visited Café Petersborg – notably Hillary Clinton.
HUSMANNS VINSTUE Larsbjørnsstræde 2 Tel 3311 5886 e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org www.husmannsvinstue.dk
Kanal – Kafeen – Canal Café – located on the canal near Christiansborg parliament building – dates back to 1852. The first owner of the café was a former cook at the royal palace who was given the restaurant as a pension! Canal Café has a genuine old – world Danish atmosphere, with a plethora of old pictures on the walls and low beams! The restaurant is frequented by office workers from the quarter as well as parliament, with families and tourists often in evidence! The Kanal – Kafeen is a bit cramped with seating capacity for only 60 guests, but there’s always room if you are prepared to wait a few minutes for a table – otherwise when weather permits, tables are put out on the pavement overlooking the canal.
CAFÉ PETERSBORG Bredgade 76 Tel 3312 5016 • Fax 3315 5062 www.cafe-petersborg.dk www.spiseliv.dk/petersborg Husmanns Vinstue – a classic luncheon restaurant founded in 1888 – is one of the very few old basement restaurants left in Copenhagen – almost totally unchanged in style during the 125 or so years of its existence! One significant change is that women are allowed to lunch there now – they were forbiden admittance in 1912 by the then proprietress, a ban not lifted until 1981! HUSMANNS VINSTUE is today a traditional Danish smørrebrød lunch restaurant of the highest quality offering homemade specialities composed of fresh raw materials, based on typical old Danish recipes. Opening hours mon-fri: 11.30 am – 6 pm, sat: 12.00 pm – 4 pm. Kitchen: mon-fri: 11.30 – 4pm, sat: 12 – 4 pm. Closed Sundays and Bank Holidays. All credit cards accepted. Evening parties catered for by special advance order.
Café Sorgenfri is a 150-year-old basement restaurant in central Copenhagen, serving classic Danish open sandwiches. Our famous kitchen works every day from 11am to 9pm (Sun 12 noon to 5pm), where as the restaurant only closes at midnight. A lot has been written about Café Sorgenfri as an example of genuine, traditional Copen-hagen culture at its best. However, most of all, the restaurant is popular in the true sense of the word. Café Sorgenfri is known by any Copenhagener and everybody from all walks of life comes here to enjoy a meal, a couple of pints...and the company. Quite naturally, Café Sorgenfri is often completely packed – so please phone in advance for table reservation.
RESTAURANT & CAFÉ NYTORV Nytorv 15 Tel 3311 7706 www.nytorv.dk
Københavner Caféen is a genuine Danish restaurant situated in one of Copenhagen’s small and charming streets – just a couple of steps off the walking street (“Strøget”). Traditional open sandwiches (“smørrebrød”) dominate the lunch menu whilst renowned Danish dishes are served in the evening. The café is noted for its untraditional and impulsive activities for tourists. For example, Santa Claus often appears during the summer months! Københavner Caféen is open seven days a week including public holidays and serves lunch between 12:00 and 17:00 and dinner from 17:00 until 22:30. KØBENHAVNER CAFEEN Badstuestræde 10 Tel 3332 8081 www.kobenhavnercafeen.dk
CAFÉ SORGENFRI Brolæggerstræde 8 Tel 3311 5880 www.cafesorgenfri.dk Restaurant & Café Nytorv is 150 years old and one of the very oldest inns in Copenhagen – established 30-40 years after the Great Fire in 1795 that left most of the capital in ruins. In times gone-by, Restaurant & Café Nytorv was the haunt of drunkards and prostitutes, today its clientele are artists, lawyers, businessmen and good people that just pop into the place for a beer or a good meal – we serve typical Danish-style lunches all day!
THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | CPHPOST.DK IGAARD
Potter down Pusher Street for a true taste of the area and visit Christiania Cykler’s shop where they make the unique handmade Pedersen bicycle and the world-famous cargo bike. Individual guided tours of the area are held in Danish and English throughout the year every Saturday and Sunday at 15:00. Tours commence just inside Christiania’s main entrance on Prinsessegade and last 60-90 minutes.
11AM A bird’s eye view Skt. Annæ Gade 29, Cph K; 35-45kr; vorfrelserskirke.dk Entering back into the EU, just across the road from Christiania, is the Dutch Baroque style Church of Our Saviour built in 1696. It’s the most visited church in the city and claims the lofty accolade namely for its 360-degree panoramic view of Copenhagen. Every year more than 60,000 people ascend the 300-year-old wooden staircase to get a bird’s eye view of the urban expanse, 90 metres above street level. On a particularly clear day, you can see as far as the Oresund Bridge. But be warned, the last 150 steps sit on the outside of the gilded spire, so the climb is certainly not for the faint-hearted.
12.30PM Floating culinary feast Copenhagen Street Food, Trangravsvej 14,
2PM Danish design icons
Cph K; open daily from April 28; copenhagenstreetfood.dk This covered food market sits opposite Nyhavn in the heart of the harbour on Papirøen www. copenhagenstreetfood.dk/en (the Paper Island). The artificial island refers to its original use as the paper storage facility for the Procurement Association of the Danish Press. Now instead of newspapers, the huge industrial hall accommodates 35 food trucks and stalls with treats from every corner of the world. The kiosks have been constructed from old shipping containers, benches made from recycled wood and other reclaimed materials that add to the raw feel of the place. Hot dogs are a big deal in Denmark and the organic gourmet ones from Pølse Kompagniet are definitely a good place to begin your ‘pølse’ education. Mouth-watering variations include the onion-infused dog with Caribbean sauce! Oink, Oink is another culinary standout, which
boasts 16-hour roasted pulled pork nestled in a butter-turned bun topped with creamy slaw. For a sweet treat to round off your lunch, try Ishytten for classic Danish ice-cream from Hansens and traditional cakes. Meals start from around 50 kroner, so the market is a cheaper lunch alternative to the typical Scandinavian-priced eateries that might endanger your holiday budget. But remember to bring cash, as most vendors only accept Dankort or mobile pay.
Bredgade 68 Cph K; open Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00, Wed 11:00-21:00; adults 100kr, students and under-26s: free adm; designmuseum.dk Situated in the former King Frederik’s rococo-style hospital, Denmark’s largest museum for Danish and international design, Designmuseum Danmark, holds an unrivalled collection of classic artefacts. The museum’s 20th Century Danish Design exhibition showcases the products of the country’s greatest design deities: Arne Jacobsen’s iconic egg chair, Poul Henningsen’s glass pendant lamp and Finn Juhl’s 45 chair. The latest exhibition, ‘Danish Design Now’, includes the country’s leading contemporary designers such as Hee Welling and Simon Legald. And for those suffering from cultural fatigue, there is the museum’s café Klint which gets its name from the building’s own architect Kaare Klint. It’s an ideal spot to sip a cappuccino whilst reclining back in furniture designed by the likes
of Wegner and Poul Kjærholm. There are free ‘Danish Icons’ tour in English every Sunday at 14:00.
4PM Vibrancy and colour in Vesterbro Straddling the western side of the city’s central train station sits the district of Vesterbro. The area nearest to the station is the old red light district and still remains slightly sleazy today with the occasional sex shop and strip bar, but the neighbourhood is steadily gentrifying and walk a bit further down Istedgade and you’ll notice the erotica soon gives way to boutiques and design shops. Wallpaper Magazine even named the street the trendiest place to live in Copenhagen. Pop into Dansk Made For Rooms (Istedgade 80) for your fill of Danish-designed goodies or Kyoto (Istedgade 95) for Scandinavian fashion brands like Carin Wester, Rodebjer and Wood Wood. When shopping has tuckered you out, head to the old meatpacking district, now known as Kødbyen, for a range of restaurants and bars. Nose2Tail, an atmospheric underground eatery buried below Kødbyen offers locally-sourced organic produce inspired by Danish kitchen great Søren Gericke. The restaurant (Flæsketorvet 13) prides itself on an unusual cooking concept of using everything from the animal, from the nose to its tail. For some post-dinner drinks visit NOHO (Flæsketorvet 28) for copious cocktails or hip new brew-pub Warpigs (Flæsketorvet 25).
SUMMER SYMPHONY: American Album Sunday, May 29 3 pm
The Tivoli Copenhagen Phil dips into the American photograph album and encounters Lincoln, West Side Story and Star Wars composer John Williams. Tivoli Copenhagen Phil Conductor: Lawrence Foster Soloist: Toke Møldrup, cello Narrator: Rufus Gifford Music by Copland, Williams, Ives and Bernstein.
SommerKlassisk is 66 fantastic classical concerts taking place I Tivoli from May to September. There are major international orchestras and star soloists. In other words, there’s masses of music to entertain, challenge and enthral!
Read more and buy tickets tivoligardens.com/en/sommerklassisk
June 1-Aug 29, 10:00-17:00; Kronborg Castle, Helsingør; adults: 140kr, children: 70kr; kongeligeslotte.dk ANNA CLARKE THE PRINCE of Denmark is returning home to Elsinore to celebrate the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death. Hamlet Live – which will see the likes of Ophelia, Claudius and Polonius take up residence for three months at Kronborg Castle – will give audience members a unique immersive take on the classic tragedy. This year’s festivities also mark the 200th year since Hamlet was first played at the UNESCO world heritage site, the world’s longest-running Shakespearian tradition. Placed in the authentic surroundings of Kronborg’s splendid castle grounds, the audience will get treated to eight scenes from the iconic story acted out in different areas of the sumptuous castle, not discounting the dungeons!
May 15-Sep 11; Tivoli, Cph K; 50-150kr with regular admission; tivoligardens.com PETE STREADER WE ALL know that Tivoli rocks on a
Friday, but don’t forget that the dulcet tones of classical music will also be wafting through the air. A host of international orchestras and star soloists will be playing a total of 65 concerts on the open air stage and in the concert hall between May and September as part of the Tivoli Summer Classical season. The season kicks off (May 15) with the Malmö Academy of Music Symphony orchestra conducting us through a musical storm of life, love and hell. The May highlight (on the 29th) is Summer Symphony: American Album as the Copenhagen Philharmonic dips into a melodious musical collage of transatlantic culture from Aaron Copland’s 1942 work Lincoln Portrait, via spirituals and hymns, to the familiar strains of Leonard Bernstein’s West Side Story. May also features three chamber
In charge is Peter Holst-Beck, who has expertly used immersive narrative to place the play’s dramatics within an authentic historical backdrop. He calls Hamlet Live “a truly unique experience that will warm and excite your hearts”. Among the cast who will carry the Hamlet Universe on their shoulders is Ian Burns, a noted actor and director based in Copenhagen. The founder of That Theatre Company will be playing the part of Polonius, while two of his regular collaborators, actor Benjamin Stender (as Hamlet) and director Barry McKenna, are also involved. The audience themselves will also take on a significant role in the theatrics, playing the all-important function of the eyewitness Horatio, Hamlet’s
PICK OF THE MONTH
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friend and confidante.
music concerts with upcoming soloists from the Royal Danish Academy of Music expertly interpreting the works of Brahms, Ravel and Debussy. If strings are your thing then the Danish Suzuki Institute’s annual final concert (May 21) should be an inspiring night of young virtuoso talent. Schubert and Beethoven are on the set-list for Arco, an orchestra made up of 25 dedicated amateur musicians. They are conducted by the former Danish National Symphony Orchestra concert master and violinist Gunnar Tagmose – now well into his 80s. For selected concerts, an extra 50/150kr at the Tivoli Concert Hall door is required for an evening of orchestral delights.
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THE SUBLIME SKILLS OF THE SILVERSMITHS Amagertorv 4, Cph K; Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 11:00-16:00; 3311 4080; georgjensen.com BY MICHELLE DAVIES GEORG JENSEN, a name globally synonymous with Danish design for over a century, will provide visitors to its grand flagship store at Amagertorv Square with a demonstration of the craftsmanship required to produce its luxurious silver pieces. It’s a unique opportunity to appreciate the inner workings of the iconic brand and all part of its 110th anniversary celebrations, which will include other special events and the release of limited edition pieces. The silversmiths have trained for four years as artisans to learn their craft, and on our visit to their workshop, it was fascinating to get so close to the process and to be able to appreciate the detail and precision required to produce each design.
As well as the close-up demonstration, the silversmiths discussed their passion for a craft passed down from generation to generation, the technical skill required to form the pieces and the process of bringing designs to fruition, from paper to silver. The silversmith craft is laborious. One silver platter takes approximately ten months to complete, executed with countless targeted hammer strokes, each requiring perfection.
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The piece de resistance is the custom-made table: a collaboration between Georg Jensen and the acclaimed Hørsholm-based designer and cabinet maker Laura Bergsøe’s. Using 6,000-year-old bog oak and elm wood, Bergsøe collaborated with the silversmiths to take moulds of the oak surface and fill sections of the pitted surface area with solid silver for the appearance of “silver floating in the veins of a tree, bubbling out of holes and cavities”. The innovative design of the table is an impressive work of art, which is fitting for the store and well worth seeing.
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Open from 11.00 to midnight Lunch 12.00 – 15.30 Dinner 17.00 – 21.30
Open frOm 12:00 tO 23:00! Gl. Kongevej 5 - 1610 Kbh. V. Telf.: 3331 6510
Visitors also have the opportunity to learn about the history of Danish design on a tour that includes a rare display of silverware pieces designed and crafted by Georg Jensen himself, displaying his talent as both an artist and craftsman. Jensen’s work sits alongside master craftsman Harald Nielsen’s work from the early 1900s and Sigvard Bernadotte, the ‘Design Prince of Sweden’, from the same era. The store holds an array of beautiful vintage Georg Jensen pieces, sourced from private collectors over the last decade. The second level displays two leather chairs and antique mahogany furniture cabinets from Georg Jensen’s original store in 1908. The varied collection features silver pieces and jewellery from the past century, providing a visual story of the evolution of Danish design, from art nouveau to contemporary.
Open from midnight Open11.00 from to 11.00 to midnight Lunch Lunch 12.00 –12.00 15.30– 15.30 Dinner 17.00 21.30 Dinner 17.00 21.30 Restaurant Frida’s • Gammel– Kongevej 5– • 1610 Cph V • Tel: 3331 6510 • www.restaurantfridas.dk
TOURISM MAP GUIDE THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | CPHPOST.DK G8 INOUT THE COPENHAGEN POST | CPHPOST.DK
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MØRK HANSENS VEJ 2 ST. 2000 FREDERIKSBERG VED DEN SØNDERJYSKE BY TEL. +45 33 15 63 63 INFO@HERCEGOVINA.DK WWW.HERCEGOVINA.DK
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President and Publisher: Ejvind Sandal ● Editor: Anna Clarke ● Layou
TOURISM MAP GUIDE
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INOUT G9 THE COPENHAGEN POST | CPHPOST.DK
The Old English Pub C O P E N H AG E N
S-Trains to Farum / Hillerød / Holte / Klampenborg
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Ov e Ov rga er de ga n Wi de ne lde n de rs Pr ov n g in er va ade se va nd ss nd et et eg
Christmas Møllers plads
CHRISTIANSHAVN T An
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Det Kgl. Bibliotek (The Royal Library)
Dyssen (Christiania Lake)
Børsen (Old Stock Exchange)
r de . g Pe s ram Sk de ga ds jol
Nationalbanken Holmens Kirke
ad metro M2 to Copenhagen Airport e
de stræ Nikolaj Kirke aard Ving Ad mi de ra lga ga kse de La
Det Kongelige Teater (Royal Theatre)
de t sga Øs gen Kon Lille
ga ed Br
Charlotte A. Bastion
t Ann æ Pla ds dstr. Stran
sg en ng Ko re
de rge Bo
e ad elg Ad
e ad sse g rin e np Kro
Skt. Pauls plads de
Den Lille Havfrue (The Little Mermaid) X
St Lille ran ds tr.
Regional Trains to Louisiana & Helsingør (Elsinore)
INDEX Strøget - main pedestrian street
Islands Brygge metro
Pedestrian area & popular squares Institutions & official Buildings
metro M1 to Bella Center / Ørestad / Vestamager
Main car traffic streets
ut: Lyndsay Jensen ● Commercial Director: Hans Hermansen, email@example.com, Tel: +45 2420 2411
FOOD TOURS UNIQUE AND PERSONAL GUIDED TOURS IN SMALL GROUPS
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May 4-27, Thu & Fri 20:00; A Touch of Vintage, Badstuestræde 12, Cph K; 150kr, discounts available, rabbithole.dk
WILLIAM P GOTTLIEB
BRAND NEW theatre company Down the Rabbit Hole is staging John Christopher-Wood’s inventive comedy about a bored expat couple’s attempt to restage
Macbeth. They have taken it upon themselves to reinvent the iconic drama, deeming it too wordy and the poetry lacking in rhyme! The audacious duo decide to simplify the bard’s text and rather ambitiously take on every character role themselves. The audience are in prime position as the hilarity ensues, seated in the centre of Macbeth’s castle while the play goes on around them. (AC)
ELSIE AND NORM’S ‘MACBETH’
May 28-June 4, 20:00 (May 29, 15:00); Sankt Annæ Plads 36, Cph K; 95-395kr, kglteater.dk; 90 mins THE TITLE poem of Søren Ulrik Thomsen’s latest anthology, Shaken Mirror, attempts to describe a beloved’s look, inaccurately distorted through the elusive nature of a mirror’s materiality. The poem demonstrates the limits
MUSICAL E THEATR
Come Fly Away
May 21-June 2; Opera House Ekvipagemestervej 10, Cph K; 75-595kr, kglteater.dk; 105 mins Broadway hit Come Fly Away is back for a third consecutive season to celebrate Frank Sinatra’s musical prowess. Choreographer Twyla Tharp sets the singer’s best-loved songs to dance for this dazzling performance. (AC)
of language itself when the poet fails to truthfully capture a specific moment in time. Kim Brandstrup’s ballet continues where language cannot, and in the movement of Brandstrup’s dancers the words of one of Denmark’s most beloved poets begins to take form on the theatre’s stage. Award-winning Kim Brandstrup is renowned for his work with the Royal Ballet and English National Ballet. (AC)
Chamber Concert #7: Nordic Sounds May 1, 15:00; Opera House, Ekvipagemestervej 10, Cph K; 150kr, kglteater.dk The Royal Danish Orchestra will play works by a selection of Scandinavian composers, including Norway’s Edvard Grieg and home-grown Carl Nielsen and Rued Langgaard. (AC)
May 10, 20:00; Black Diamond, Søren Kierkegaards Plads 1, Cph K; 240kr; kb.dk Famed Russian pianist Elisabeth Leonskaja will present a powerful program that includes Schubert’s Piano Sonata nr. 7 in Es-major, Tchaikovsky’s Grand Sonata in G-major and Brahms’ 7 Fantasies. (AC)
MUTE COMP Physical Theatre presents a raw and palpable performance inspired by Japanese legendary samurai warrior Miyamoto Musachi and his work The Book of Five Rings. The artist and swordsman’s teachings have inspired philosophers and laymen alike, and now his writings act as the stimulus for Danish choreographer Kasper Ravnhøj and his dance troupe. Philosophical life-mantras like “think lightly of yourself and deeply of the world” and “do nothing that is of no use” arouse a frenzied and figurative performance led by the award-winning Ravnhøj.
PICK OF THE MONTH
April 29-May 12, 19:00; Dansehallerne Pasteursvej 20, Cph V; 125kr, concessions: 55kr, dansehallerne.dk; 75 mins
The experienced choreographer, who was previously involved in the Red Room’s Reumert-winning Metamorphoses at the Danish Royal Theatre, combines text and dance with the physicality of performance for this hard-hitting production. Ravnhøj usually doesn’t shy away from addressing contemporary themes in his pieces, paying particular focus to the reality of modern living – a previous production Illegal trilogy centred around trafficking and drug abuse. Tough subject matter is coupled with complex and challenging physical performances from the dancers, who are pushed to their very physical limitations. Their Facebook page boasts how the troupe “work on the edge of the possible”. The deliberate casting of musicians and performers with varying training backgrounds and nationalities ensures that these dancers’ differences give the production a distinctive multi-faceted feel.
THE STRIKE OF NO THOUGHT
THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | CPHPOST.DK
CTC Fringe Festival
May 26-28, 19:30; Krudttønden, Serridslevvej 2, Cph Ø; ctcircle.dk After last year’s experimentarium, the CTC Fringe Festival returns for the second time with three jam-packed days of rip-roaring laughter and entertainment. Its series of one-act plays showcase some of the city’s best upcoming playwrights and directors. (AC)
May 26-28; Dansehallerne, Pasteursvej 20, Cph V; 125kr, dansehallerne.dk; 80 mins German dancer Antoinette Helbing and Finnish dance and video artist Taneli Torma join together to form Re-dream, an exploration of the way the two creatives personally deal with dreams and visions of the future. (AC)
THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | CPHPOST.DK
performances are staged at a number
June 1-12; various venues; cphstage.dk
of quirky venues.
from countries such as Israel, the US,
Many of the performers have
travelled great distances to take part – Germany, Poland, Italy and France. Below are seven of our recommendations, but it was a hard choice whittling down the shortlist. The other English-language productions are Dancing with Ghosts (June 1012), Naghol (June 10-12), The Elephant (June 9-10), Red Bastard (June 1-3), Accion Groila 5 – A Space (June 3-5), The Universal Position (June 8-9) and From Ass to Ashes (June 8-10). As well as the many performances, CPH STAGE also offers readings, seminars, parties and debates as well as a flea market.
JAN HAJDELAK HUSTAK
THIS JUNE, Copenhagen will once again come alive as a captivating mix of performance art, theatre and music descends onto the city’s stages. CPH STAGE is weird and wacky and utterly imaginative, and its vast performance program is sure to keep you busy! Now in its fourth year, the open theatre festival will include 13 English-language productions and 42 performances spread over its 12 days, along with 58 dance performances that are also accessible to Anglophones. As well as participating theatres, the
THIS IS the story of one man’s personal struggle against horrific childhood abuse in which Claes Bang plays Jan Guillou, a renowned Swedish journalist and writer. Guillou’s story – which was was orig-
June 1-4; Sort/Hvid Regnbuepladsen 7, 4, Cph V; 140kr, sort-hvid.dk; 75 mins The Swiss-Danish family Liebmann-Schmidt visit a house deep in the Sicilian mountains where they meet a refugee group and exchange stories and songs. This is a tale about finding new friendships in unusual settings. (AC)
inally released as a book of the same name in 1981 – is an autobiographical account of his traumatic childhood in Stockholm in the 1950s under the reign of his abusive father and later at the now defunct Solbacka school. During this highly intense hour-long monologue the very core anatomy of evil is scrutinised and the audience is left asking the question: are we all naturally evil deep down? (AC) CPH STAGE
June 2 & 3, 19:30 ; Folketeatret, Nørregade 39, Cph K; 100kr, folketeatret.dk; 65 mins
WHAT DOES it all mean: the hamster wheel of life as we work, consume, sleep, work, consume, sleep, repeat. Stop Being Poor examines the notion of public anxiety and fear we often experience living out a meaningless
existence within a capitalist society. The award-winning performance (By Proxy’s first) comments on this feeling of modern day madness as we go to our offices every day in a bid to feel successful and useful, coaxed further in by gourmet coffee and cool bean bag areas. Scratch below the surface and a wealth of insecurity and doubt comes tumbling out. (AC) CPH STAGE
STOP BEING POOR
June 1 & 2, 20:00; Dansehallerne, Pasteursvej 20, Cph V; 80kr, dansehallerne.dk; 75 mins
She But Not Herself June 4, 19:30; Forsøgsstationen, Sønder Boulevard 81, Cph V; forsoegsstationen.dk; 60 mins The critically-acclaimed Out of Balanz presents She But Not Herself, an autobiographical work that explores the notion of identity, the notion of belonging at home, and the sense of feeling excluded. (AC)
The Dancing Human
June 8-12; Dansekapellet, København, Bispebjerg Torv 1, Cph NV; 80kr, dansekapellet.dk; 60 mins A theatrical study that examines the individual personalities behind the veneer of the professional dancer. It looks at those whose main outpouring of expression is movement – their be-all and end-all is dance. (AC)
June 2-5 & 9-12; Warehouse9, Halmtorvet 11, Cph V; warehouse9.dk Trans Salvation is a performance art musical based on the texts of Ramona Machos and directed by Christoffer Berdal. It’s a story of loneliness and one transgender woman’s struggle to find an accurate self-representation. (AC)
June 4 & 6; Dansehallerne, Pasteursvej 20, Cph V; 80kr, dansehallerne.dk; 55 mins A naked body lies exposed on a white floor with just a backdrop of the black stage; the performer, Juli Apponen, is a living and breathing example of the human experience played out in careful choreographed dance. (AC)
IN YOUR HEART, IN YOUR CITY Ongoing, ends Sep 4, open Fri-Sun & Tue 11:00-17:00, Wed-Thu 11:0021:00, closed Mon; Museum of Art in Public Spaces (KØS), Nørregade 29, Køge; 60kr; koes.dk JUNYI QI
ART OF THE MONTH
POUL GERNES: I CANNOT DO IT ALONE – WANT TO JOIN IN?
June 2- Oct 16, 11:00-22:00; Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, Gammel Strandvej 13, Humlebæk; 115kr; louisiana.dk LOUISIANA’S LARGE-scale summer
Ed Atkins. Safe Conduct
May 6-7; Louisiana, Gammel Strandvej 13, Humlebæk; 115kr, louisiana.dk For two days Louisiana is hosting Art Alive, a contemporary arts festival that introduces a great number of the artists currently showing in the museum, along with talks, performances and debates. (AP)
Ongoing, ends Sep 4, 11:0017:00; SMK, Sølvgade 48-50, Cph K; free adm; smk.dk What happens when we follow orders unquestioningly – for example the adherence of airport security regulations? Ed Atkins’ video work Safe Conduct tries to answer this question. (JQ)
exhibition features a number of major works by visual artist Poul Gernes, who is widely known for his large public decorations. The livened-up appearance of Palads Cinema in vivid pastel colors is one of his masterpieces. Artistic creation is not exclusive to artists and Gernes’ own words, “I cannot do it alone – want to join in?”, became the exhibition’s title. (JQ)
© ED ATKINS, SAFE CONDUCT, 2016. PRODUCTION STILL
THERE’S NO doubt Mario Testino is one of the most influential professional working in contemporary portraiture worldwide. The Peruvian-born photographer has exhibited his work globally, from London
to Tokyo, but not yet in Denmark. Finally the time has come, and GL Strand in Copenhagen will host Testino’s first-ever show in the country. His No limits exhibition exceeds the boundaries of formal portraiture categories as it juxtaposes three different motifs: fashion and iconic portraiture, nudes, and royal portraits, including unseen images of Denmark’s Crown Princess and Crown Prince. (AP)
DANSK ARKITEKTUR CENTER
May 13-Sep 18; Gammel Strand 48, Cph K; 68kr; glstrand.dk
FEATURING BOTH indoor and outdoor installations, the exhibition In your heart, In your city is one of the largest presentations ever held at KØS (35 minutes from CPH Central Station) and promises an enjoyable visit. Indoors, you will find the ‘Letter of Thanks’ installation. The museum received 3,000 thank you letters from adults and children in many languages last year and these are now on display,
arranged in a giant labyrinth made of thread, which visitors are invited to enter and explore. On the museum’s façade hangs Japanese artist Takafumi Hara’s nine large-scale paintings based on stories of residents of Køge. Displayed in the square in front of the museum is Berlin-based artist Chiharu Shiota’s notable work ‘State of Being (Keys)’, consisting of a lit-up box of reinforced glass filled with thousands of old keys hung from a massive cobweb-like net weaved from red threads. Additionally, artist Yukihiro Taguchi, known for his unique ‘performative installations’, will live for two weeks in a self-built house made from materials found on the square and visitors will be able to peer into his daily life. The house will show animated films created from materials found in urban settings.
THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | CPHPOST.DK
Towards a Larger World
Ongoing, ends Oct 16; Moderna Museet Malmö; Ola Billgrens Plats 2–4; free adm; modernamuseet.se This exhibition gathers works from the museum’s collection by several artists – from Ai Weiwei to Adrián Villar Rojas – that together attempt to bridge the gap between languages and continents. (AP)
Update – Making the city smart
Ongoing, ends June 12, 10:0017:00; Danish Architecture Centre, Strandgade 27B, Cph K; 60kr; dac.dk The exhibition Update looks at how the digital revolution could change our cities. Is this about ‘smart cities’, or is it more like ‘Big Brother’? (JQ)
Iwan Baan: 52 Weeks, 52 Cities
Ongoing, ends Aug 7, 10:0017:00; Danish Architecture Centre, Strandgade 27B, Cph K; 60kr; dac.dk DAC showcases a selection of architecture photographs by one of the most widely published photographers in the world, Iwan Baan, and his travels from city to city. (JQ)
LEDREBORG LIFESTYLE May 13-16, 10:00-18:00; Ledreborg Castle, Ledreborg Allé, Lejre; 125kr, under-14s: 50kr; ledreborglivstil.dk PETE STREADER
THE LONG Whitsun weekend is coming up and once again the palatial Ledreborg estate will open its rolling gardens and baroque mansion to this popular home and lifestyle event. Although it’s an ideal event for homemaking hobbyists and greenfingered gardeners, you can also play a round of golf, swing fearlessly through the treetops, do a bit of accessory shopping or dabble in a bit of alternative therapy. The 18th century ancestral home of the Holstein-Ledreborg family is also well worth a visit in its own right. In
keeping with the historical roots of the manor house, there will be a rousing concert in the chapel by castle organist Robert Hofsetter. True to tradition, he’ll be dusting off his powder and wig to regale the guests with tales of days gone by in between tickling the ivories. Don’t be afraid to bring the kids as they will love this day out: sitting on a pony, visiting the mini-circus Bella Donna, splashing around on the water in the funballz and chuffing along on the model train. Meanwhile, the adults can browse the clothes and accessories in the old cow stables, find home and garden inspiration, or try some of the alternative therapy in the wellness area such as clairvoyance, acupuncture or massage. The more adventurous can ‘fly high’ on three different adventure trails between the treetops, while the less active can enjoy the gastronomic delights on offer in the food and drink area. All in all, it’s a classic family day out.
THEY’RE PROMISING barrels of fun at the annual Beer Festival, hosted by the Danish Beer Enthusiasts’ Association. This year the location for ale-supping and pint-pulling is the old locomotive
workshop near the Fisketorvet mall. More than 60 brewers will tickle your tastebuds with their fermented wares. The big breweries like Carlsberg are there of course, but don’t forget to look out for the smaller ones such as Ugly Duck Brewing Company, Brewalution and The Cider House. For 100kr you get 10 samples, whilst the more ambitious might want to double up! (PS) ISTOCK
VALBYPARKEN TAKES a trip back in time to the days when chivalrous knights in shining armour mounted their trusty steeds to do daring battle with the fiendish enemy and defend
CPH BEER FESTIVAL
May 19-21; Lokomotivværkstedet, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Cph SV; 125kr, plus 100kr for 10 samples; ale.dk
May 13-16; Valbyparken; 100kr, under-11s: 70kr; kmm.dk
their battlements with honour. The four-day market takes you back to the Middle Ages to witness the steely swishing of swords, the joy of jousting and the launching of lances in spectacular re-enactments of past battles. While in between the bouts of mortal combat, you can saunter among the stalls that show off traditional Viking arts and crafts. (PS) STIG NYGAARD
COPENHAGEN MEDIEVAL MARKET
Big Quiz Night at The Globe May 12 & 28 & June 9, 19:30; The Globe, Nørregade 43-45, Cph K; the-globe.dk Beer-drinking boffins battle it out for the 1,000kr first prize. Put a team together and pit your wits against the best of Copenhagen’s expat trivia know-it-alls. Get there early for a good seat and grabbing grub before the quiz. (PS)
May 14-15, 12:00-18:00; Fælledparken, Cph Ø; free adm Copenhagen Carnival brings a splash of Rio de Janeiro to the urban landscape as its pulsating samba rhythms and colourful costumes are paraded through the city streets. After the parade, the partying goes on all night in Fælledparken. (PS)
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Train travel to the 1800s
May 14-16; Holtvej, Græsted (local train from Hillerød Station); 20-100kr; veterantræf.dk Take the train to Helsingør and go back to the 1800s. The finely-preserved house in Strandgade comes alive alive oh with the vegetable lady selling her wares and the ancient mariner telling tall tales of the seven seas. (PS)
Full Moon Party
May 21-22; Redfshalevej 325, Cph K; 150kr, billetto.dk This is one for ravers still nostalgic for the heady days of all-nighters on a Thai beach. The setting here is downtown Copenhagen, but the robotic rhythms, glowsticks and flamboyant party people should provide a flashback or two. (PS)
May 29, 10:00-16:00; Israels Plads, Cph K; free adm; tradono.dk A trendy, exclusive downtown second-hand clothes market for the ladies. The fashion blogging stallholders are chosen for the quality of their apparel and accessories. Live music jazzes things up. Shop till you drop. (PS)
June 3-4; Islands Brygge 18, Cph S; 20kr, under-12s: free adm; asian-culture-festival.dk ALEX JAMES
ISLANDS BRYGGE promises to come alive with the sights and sounds of the world’s biggest, most populated continent this June, as the Asian Culture Festival comes to town. After the success of this two-day Asian experience in Aalborg in 2015, this year the festival travels to Copenhagen. Over 19,000 people attended in Aalborg, so it seems certain to be a popular hit! A number of food stalls will be offering fantastic tapas-style dishes from countries as varied as Vietnam, Japan, Pakistan and the Philippines. Wash this down with some delicious
beer from Thailand, or maybe just a coffee. For those who want to replicate these meals at home, many stalls are offering cooking classes or markets to buy traditional produce. After eating all this food maybe you’ll feel the need to dance, or possibly just to sit and listen. So enjoy traditional Asian music, which will be played throughout the two days. These acts are from contrasting styles and regions, such as traditional Indonesian dance, Taiko drums from Japan and a winning combination of Indian music with accompanying Bollywood dancing featured on the line-up. There is entertainment for all ages to be found during both days of the festival. Children can get creative with a number of exciting activities, which will include decorating Vietnamese hats, learning to make sushi and enjoying origami. The entertainment for grown-ups includes henna tattoos, souvenir stalls and karate.
June 18, 13:00-16:15; Opera House, Ekvipagemestervej 10, Cph K; free adm USUALLY THE drama takes place inside the Opera House, but not on this occasion! Some 14 of the best male cliff divers in the world will take turns to jump 27
metres into the river in what should be an unusual but thrilling spectacle. Just remember not to blink as you watch the athletes complete their jumps, as each dive only takes three seconds. The average speed as they hit the water is 85km/h – to put this into perspective, divers impact the water seven times harder than their Olympic counterparts. (AJ) ISTOCK
RED BULL CLIFF DIVING
THE FREE admission Distortion street nights are the stuff of legend as hundreds of thousands come out to take over the districts of Nørrebro and Vesterbro. Over the weekend, the focus is the festival’s main paid-entry event (450kr
for two nights), Distortion Ø, which is again returning to Refshaleøen, a former shipyard with a capacity of 15,000. The line-up features a number of top-quality electronic artists, including Tiga, Kelela and Gilli. And then on Sunday, the festival-goers can relax and revel in the achievement that they have just survived a four-day extravaganza of music, beer and dancing. (AJ) OFFICIAL FCEBOOK PAGE
June 1-5; Cph N (June 1), Cph V (June 2) & Refshaleøen (June 3-4); festival pass: 575kr; cphdistortion.dk
Jewish Culture Festival
May 31-June 6; various venues; jewishculture.dk Celebrate Jewish culture at a number of events in the Danish capital. Among the performers are the musical acts El Saffron, Klezmofobia, Paul Zaks and the Koppel family, and don’t miss flamenco dancer Leilah Broukhim. (AJ)
June 19, 11:00-13:00; Onkel Dannys Plads, Halmtorvet, Cph V; 250kr, under-18s:150kr; copenhagenclassico.dk A bike journey like no other, the group will leisurely cycle 22 km together, stopping off for two breaks – for coffee at Dronning Louises Bro and for champagne at Kastellet! (AJ)
June 22; Nørre Farimagsgade 61, Cph K; 300kr With gin very much back in vogue, explore just how different this drink can be. All the drinks are served neat, but feel free to turn each one into a classic G&T or mixed drink of your choice. The event is part of the Smagførst Festival. (AJ)
Sankt Hans Aften
ASIAN CULTURE FESTIVAL
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June 23; various venues nationwide Across the nation the Danes will gather on Sankt Hans Aften (Midsummer’s Eve) to observe old traditions that include placing a witch on a bonfire and singing nationalistic songs as she burns. One of the best nights of the year! (NØ)
June 24, 15:00; Kongens Have, Øster Voldgade 4A, Cph K; free adm Show your support against torture by spending a nice day in the park at the King’s Garden. Enjoy live music and loads of Danish and foreign guest speakers while enjoying a beer and snacks from the World Street Food pop-ups. (NØ)
OFFICIAL FCEBOOK PAGE
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AT ESPRESSO GOOD THINGS COME TO THOSE WHO WAIT BY ELLA NAVARRO TRENDY COFFEE shops are one of Copenhagen’s best assets. You find them on every corner, but when there are so many options, it’s difficult to know which one to choose, right? Well, don’t get despresso, as we aim to bring you the top-notch spots – those that offer great quality and reasonable prices. So if you’re lacking in the caffeine department, your next stop should be Espresso Huset, where your soul will be filled by sweet Guatemalan beans! THE ANIMATED AMERICAN “We wanted to build a hyggeligt place with awesome coffee and a genuinely friendly atmosphere where people feel comfortable,” explained Manager Chris Quintano, who moved from the US to Copenhagen and manages the place. Filled with candles, comfortable couches and a vanguard retro style, you feel as if you were in your own living room. The staff are super-friendly – just like the energetic, wise-cracking Quintano, a useful man to know to find out what’s going on around town. MASTERS OF ART AND COFFEE True to the ‘latte art’. Quintano contends that it’s not only about the coffee but also about the aesthetics, as it’s better to have a coffee with a nice drawing. “Even if there are a whole lot of customers, we deliver a good final product – we don’t rush it,” he
Royal Smushi Cafe
Amagertorv 6,Cph K; open Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-18:00; royalsmushicafe.dk Royal Smushi Cafe, a secret garden of elegance and taste hidden in the heart of Copenhagen. This rare gem placed me in a contemporary fairy-tale setting of majestic chandeliers, high ceilings, pink walls, royal tables and ‘The Ant’ chair designed by Arne Jacobsen. The enchantment begins when ‘smushi’ appears – a version of the traditional Danish open sandwich ‘smørrebrød’, but in a sushi size. Presented on Royal Copenhagen porcelain and George Jensen cutlery, I tasted the delicious flavours of three portions: salmon roll, eggs and shrimps and avocado. Fine desserts are displayed at the bar, and eventually I opted for an amazing carrot cake with lemon-ginger tea. A real royal taste! (AP)
said, explaining how he tries to master the ‘latte art’ by practising with YouTube tutorials and how he really takes care of the temperature of both the coffee and the milk in order to achieve perfection. The beans they use are from Guatemala, which is known to be the country with the finest and most distinctive coffee in the world. When trying the coffee we could definitely appreciate the full body as well as the exquisite aroma and refined aftertaste. Like the saying goes: ‘What comes after a cup of coffee? Another one’. And it was so good we had to have two, of course. DELICIOUS SUPPORT ACTS There are some things that must go together, such as coffee with cake or a nice pastry or croissant. At Espresso Huset this deal will cost only 35 kroner. You might struggle to pick only one from the original American chocolate chip cookie, the cinnamon Danish roll or beautiful cheesecakes: Ferrero Rocher or a freshly-fruity raspberry one. For lunch, they have the largest and most delicious fresh-made sandwiches which together with a carrot, ginger and apple juice can be enjoyed for only 75 kroner. Let me tell you that for the amount you get, this is a bargain!
Rådhusstræde 13, Cph K; open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, until 02:00 on Fri & Sat; bastardcafe.dk With hundreds of board games on offer – as well as great quality, well priced drinks – Bastard Café is the perfect place to spend a lazy Sunday. Under the definition of hygge is a picture of this café. The sofas are cosy and the staff are friendly. The hot chocolate is a mound of cream and marshmallows. What more could you possibly want? But don’t forget to order some food, as games are hungry work! The fries are customisable, so everyone can find something they like, while the nachos are a cheese-covered heaven. (AJ)
Among the options are tuna, salmon, chicken or ham. But according to Chris, the most popular is the one with avocado, mozzarella and pesto – an excellent homemade recipe. You can always ask for more or less ingredients and customise it – depending on your appetite. All in all, there are few better places to have a coffee in the city centre – the perfect place to relax after a hard day’s shopping. It’s a place where you will get more than just coffee – you will get a smile!
ESPRESSO HUSET Rådhusstræde 4A, Cph K, open Mon-Fri 07:30-19:00, Sat 09:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-18:00; coffee 27-35kr; 2851 5509
The Living Room
Larsbjornsstraede 17, Cph K; open Mon-Thu 09:0023:00, Fri 09:00-02:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Sun 10:0019:00 Even the finest cafés struggle to recreate the feeling of relaxing in your own home. But not at The Living Room, where you can sit on one of its numerous sofas, sip beautiful coffee and chat with friends. That homegrown feeling is injected throughout the menu. The soups are warming and delicious, while the pastries are a happy reminder of Denmark’s expertise in the field of baking. The very definition of cosiness and the chilled vibes that Copenhagen has perfected, it is not to be missed after a long day of sightseeing. (AJ)
THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | CPHPOST.DK
JAPANESE VIBES AND WARM BEVERAGEINSPIRED COCKTAILS BY LYCELLE AURE BAJAR VISITING FUGU cocktail bar made me recall how back at high school, my friends and I always had this particular spot on the balcony of a 22nd floor building where we used to enjoy good drinks and a great view. It was less about the place and more about the company and bond that developed, and when our very accommodating bartender, Ariel Sequerra, told us about how Fugu started, it really took me back. COCKTAILS IN GREAT COMPANY Freddy’s Unique Garden Union (FUGU) originated through five good friends with a mutual appreciation for cocktails who would meet up in Freddy’s garden. They would use the occasions to catch up, enjoy each other’s company and experiment with new drinks. When Freddy decided to move away, the friends were left with a choice: stop meeting up or find a new garden. Fortunately for Copenhagen, they chose the latter, but this time they wanted to share it with more than just their friends. HOT BEVERAGE BLENDS FUGU specialises in and is very passionate about their cocktail blends of tea and coffee. They incorporate great flavours such as aromatic tea leaves and coffee beans into very unique creations. During our visit, we had some fascinating cocktails that our tastebuds just couldn’t resist. First, Ariel served us the ‘Zombie’, a blend of
Ruby Nybrogade 10, Cph K; open Mon-Sat 16:00-02:00, Sun 19:00-02:00; cocktails from 100kr; rby.dk While seemingly innocuous outside, prepare to be transported to the roaring 1920s upon entering this cocktail extravaganza. With a fantastic array of unusual drinks, try not to be overwhelmed as you sample the delights on offer. And in particular you should enjoy the decadent ‘Bee’s Kiss’, or from the downstairs bar, the ‘New York Flip’, which includes a whole egg in its recipe! It is impossible not to feel transported into another era, when service was of the highest quality and drinks were made with the finest ingredients. (AJ)
four different rums, absinthe and passion fruit, served with a flame… literally. We were advised to be careful with this one as it has a high alcohol content due to the combination of all the rums. We were offered the ‘Gentleman’s Iced Tea’ right after, a ginger and lime-infused rum cocktail that was more on the spicy side. My friend was deeply impressed by this as she has a mad love of ginger. As for myself, I prefer my cocktails sweet and strong, so the ‘Zombie’ was definitely my kind of drink. For other popular choices, ask for ‘Obama’s Kinda Russian’ – Fugu’s take on a ‘White Russian’. Or if you like tequila, get the ‘Avocado Margarita’, a stunning combination of tequila, pepper and salt with falernum-spiced liquor. JAPANESE INSPIRATION Fugu is located on Gammel Strand where the friends were lucky enough to find the right spot to have an outdoor area. The indoor bar is fashionably decorated with a Japanese-inspired theme
Pilestræde 52, Cph K; open Mon-Wed 10:00-24:00, Thu-Sat 10:00-02:00, closed Sun; cocktails 100140kr; thesalotto42.com One of Rome’s best bar concepts has opened in the centre of Copenhagen – but it’s about so much more than just cocktails. Known for its all-in-one concept, with a barbershop at one end and a pop-up shop selling everything from clothing and shoes to luxurious Italian brands at the other, this concept venue is worth a visit. Throw yourself onto the fashionable leather couches in the cosy, vintage-style lounge area among the drapes hanging from the sky-high ceiling while enjoying one of the unique and amzing cocktail creations on the card. (NØ)
that includes lots of wooden furniture, calming candles and a fish aquarium. It has a relaxing vibe – the mild lighting and music will suit any mood. The patio is surrounded by fragrant lemon trees and lavender. It has a roof and heated lamps that accommodate customers who prefer to sit outdoors. It is also nicely decorated with wooden furniture and great lighting, and it has its own personal bar. It was very relaxing to have a drink there during our visit. However, it does get crowded at weekends. Nevertheless, while there are certainly more friends these days, it’s pretty much how the famous five pictured it: a cool place to visit every week where you can enjoy great cocktails in good company.
FUGU Gammel Strand 42, Cph K; open Wed 17:00-01:00, Thu 17:00-02:00, Fri 16:00-04:00; Sat 17:00-04:00; cocktails 95-120kr; fugu.dk
Fidel’s Cocktail Bar
Dronningens Tværgade 9, Cph K; open Thu 18:0003:00, Fri 16:00-05:00, Sat 18:00-05:00; cocktails 80-125kr; fidels.dk Located near Nyhavn, Fidel’s serves a variety of fresh fruit-based Cuban classic cocktails and more. Upon entering the two-floor, two-bar premises it suddenly felt 30 degrees warmer as Caribbean-inspired palm trees and spaciousness served to make us feel welcome and in the mood for a dance. Most classics are served along with variations, and the twisted mojito was a highlight. The twist it turns out was Strawberry liquor and white balsamico – who knew that could be so refreshing? The ‘Passion Kiss’, meanwhile, was a wonderful combo of acidity and sweetness. (LAB)
THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | CPHPOST.DK
WE ATE BRUNCH LIKE BERLINERS IN SPIRIT BY ALESSANDRA PALMITESTA THERE ARE some that maintain JFK erred when he said “Ich bin ein Berliner” – that the addition of the ‘ein’ turned ‘I am a Berliner’ into a ‘I am a jam doughnut'. Nothing could be further from the truth, as what he actually said was "I am a Berliner in spirit’, and you can be too via a visit to Von Fressen, and as an added bonus enjoy their jam – a tasty tomato variety! LIKE IN PRENZLAUER BERG When Von Fressen opened its doors six and a half years ago, the founders wanted to recreate the same atmosphere they fell in love with in Prenzlauer Berg, one of the coolest districts of Berlin. They’ve duly incorporated the eccentric style of the German capital’s bars into their Vesterbro café – and as soon as you come in, the interior decoration they’re famous for launches an all-out assault on your senses. And there’s no escape! Raise your head, and a dark ceiling with golden decor will leave you mesmerised. You’ve just stepped into Von Fressen’s world! ARTFULLY HANDLED We take a seat in an adorable corner of the café where we are immerged into ornate surroundings. Old paintings of all kinds – religiously themed, ancient portraits – photos and mirrors decorate the walls, each of them coloured differently. Ermanno, the manager, warmly welcomes us and introduces us to the café’s simple and clear
values: to serve fresh and homemade food to all its clients. We order two brunches: a vegetarian and a vegan. The menu also has a meat option, as well as a wide range of breakfast dishes. THE ESSENTIAL ESPRESSO But first things first. We are Italians and we need to start our day with an espresso. The taste of the coffee is great, but surprisingly, although it has an Italian fragrant aroma, it is roasted not far from the café in Amager. “Relying on Danish suppliers brings a savory fresh taste to our products, and this is extremely important for us,” explains Ermanno. A MOUNTAIN OF CHOICE The rich visual details of the place gladly entertain our watchful eyes; however, as soon as the brunches appear, we shift our interest to the mouthwatering specialties. My vegetarian brunch incorporates a huge range of delicious flavours. Sipping organic orange juice, I start with soft scrambled eggs served with grilled vegetables, tomato, cress, potatoes, a radish salad and cottage cheese. My need for salt is indulged by delicious quinoa and a chickpea burger with tomato jam, served with organic bread and butter.
Kompagnistraede 18, Cph K; open daily from 09:00, Fri & Sat until 17:00, Mon-Wed until 13:00, Thu until 15:00, Sun until 12:00; brunch 69kr; cafestella.dk At Café Stella you will never leave hungry. The weekend brunch buffet has a vast range of foods, from eggs and bacon to fruit and cold meats – and all for only 69 kroner at weekends, although a less expansive brunch menu is available all week. Speedy service is always at hand to serve reasonably priced coffee as you eat away the hours exploring the array of breakfast goods on offer. The charming atmosphere is created by the cosy size of the café and the casual layout, ensuring the perfect lazy weekend experience. (AJ)
A palate-cleaning glass of creamy Greek yogurt with organic honey and homemade granola sets me up for a grand finale to complete the yummy experience with a delicate thyme and blueberry pancake. Similarly, the vegan brunch presents quinoa and a chickpea burger with tomato jam, grilled vegetables, tomato, cress and a vegan potato salad on rye. Moreover, the dish includes a gentle hummus and olives, as well as a range of fruit, including oranges and grapes, and a refreshing elderflower-mint lemonade. THE WAY TO START THE DAY We conclude our morning meal greatly satisfied: we felt the warmth of home-made food and appreciated the variety and the care it was prepared with. Von Fressen is absolutely the right place to start the day with its wunderbar brunch!
VON FRESSEN Vesterbrogade 124, Cph V; open daily from 11:00 (brunch served until 14:00), weekends from 10:00 (15:00); brunch 125kr; vonfressen.com
Fiolstræde 10-12, Cph K; open daily Mon-Fri 09:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00; brunch 99kr; paludan-cafe.dk Eating in a library is usually met with glaring stares and heavy frowns, but at Palludan’s Bogcafe visitors are actively encouraged to browse the cafe’s dusty bookshelves and read while they munch! Their extensive menu includes warm dishes (such as chilli con carne), different sandwiches, and Danish delights such as the Shooting Star. The brunch is not to be missed, and with their generously sized plate coupled with a choice of smoothie or fresh juice, it is guaranteed to set you up for a day of urban exploring. (AC)
Fredericiagade 78, Cph K; open Tue-Fri 11:30-23:00, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-14:00, closed Mon; brunch 179kr (weekends only); biom.dk Brunch is only served on weekends at Biom, an elegant restaurant that only uses good quality organic ingredients, but boy is it worth it! We went for what was an amazing experience on a Saturday at 10 am. When we arrived, no-one else was there, but an hour later place was packed. The brunch consisted of so many elements, it was enough for the entire day: coffee, rhubarb marmalade, blueberry smoothie, potato salad with smoked mackerel, hummus, poached egg, shrimp and courgette salad – everything organic and homemade. (NØ)
THE COPENHAGEN POST TOURISM MAGAZINE | CPHPOST.DK
WHERE THE ITALIAN SUN SHINES ALL YEAR ROUND BY ALESSANDRA PALMITESTA THERE IS A word in Danish that expresses cosiness, which means creating a warm atmosphere and enjoying good things in life with good people. And I accordingly felt embraced by hygge when I stepped into the Italian restaurant Sole D’Italia in the northeast corner of Gråbrødretorv, a square not far from Strøget. Notwithstanding the Danish climatic conditions, this restaurant really brings the sun of Italy to whoever has the good luck to enter, whether it’s in the uncountable number of candles, fresh flowers and tasty food. MADE TO FEEL WELCOME We were heartily received and invited to have a seat where we were served a welcome drink. The restaurant is split over two floors that are elegantly furnished and decorated with Italian paintings and pictures chosen with a keen eye for detail, along with a wide selection of the most delicious Italian wines on shelves that hang over the tables. I already felt enchanted, and when the kind waiter showed us the menu I felt overjoyed at the number of dishes that immediately reminded me of home. According to the head chef, the restaurant mostly uses Italian suppliers to maintain the authenticity of the menu.
choose from its wide selection of excellent Italian dishes. The wine list is superb and, with the help of the waiter, we selected an excellent dry white, the Gavi from Piedmont, a wine that delighted us the entire evening. We began with a true Italian classic: parmigiana. The oven-baked aubergines with parmesan cheese, mozzarella and tomato sauce are a staple of traditional Italian cuisine, and this tasty version definitely made me feel at home! As a starter, my friend opted for a fine choice of Italian specialties: raw veal fillet with parmesan, lemon and rocket salad; bresaola with cream of leek; roast beef with mustard; spicy salami; and salmon – a true blaze of flavour elegantly presented.
A BLAZE OF FLAVOURS Most customers tend to order the three-course set menu, which on the occasion of our visit came with a main course of roasted wild boar. However, as a vegetarian, I opted to go a la carte and
TRUFFLE TEMPTATIONS I have to admit: I am like many Italian vegetarians addicted to pasta. So when I saw that the menu had such a wide choice, I got a little overwhelmed. Eventually, I ordered fresh tortelloni stuffed with
Restaurant El Mesón
Hauser Plads 12, Cph K; open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 17:00-22:00; set menu: 349kr (min 2 persons); 3311 9131;elmeson.dk Tucked away in a small square in the centre of Copenhagen you’ll find the oldest Spanish restaurant in the whole of Scandinavia. Initially founded in 1976 to introduce the Danes to the kind of meal served on any pavement terrace in Spain, El Mesón has evolved to take its customers on a tour of Spanish gastronomy, played out on weekends to the soundtrack of a Madrileño guitarist named Gonzalo. As well as its 33 tapas dishes, it offers two types of paella and its house specialty, the Jamón Bellota. (NØ)
Reef N’ Beef
Jernbanegade 4, Cph V; open daily 16:00-23:00; set menu 355-395kr (wine pairing: 265kr), mains from 150kr; 3333 0030; reefnbeef.dk For 28 years now, the outback-inspired cuisine of Reef N’ Beef has been delighting the city’s diners with the wild and exotic cuisine of the Oceanic country. Highlights included a creamy crocodile cake served with a coriander mustard foam; a succulent, tender red kangaroo fillet wrapped in Serrano ham and seasoned with wild thyme; and a creamy Trio De Panacotta of wild berries, kiwi and mango. And you must try the ‘Down Under’, a fusion of strawberries, lime, vanilla liquor, vodka and guava juice that would provide a delicious climax to any evening. (AC)
mushrooms in truffle sauce. This is a typical pasta of northern Italy: rich with a divine aroma. My friend chose the grilled beef fillet with truffle sauce in cognac served with potatoes, stuffed tomato and zucchini, which she said was “exquisite.” THE BEST FOR LAST And then when I thought it couldn’t get better, the dessert appeared. It was a mouthwatering selection of Italian treats: creamy tiramisu, panna cotta, warm crespelle with marmalade, cream puffs and a bite of nougat. Last but not least, a coffee cup of real espresso finished off the experience in style. By the time we left the restaurant fully satisfied with the service, we noticed that it had filled up with clients irresistibly attracted to the sun of Italy.
RISTORANTE SOLE D’ITALIA Gråbrødretorv 1, Cph K; open daily 11:0023:00; set menu: 349kr; soleditalia.dk
Jernbanegade 4, Cph V; open Sun-Mon 12:00-22:30, Tue-Sat 12:00-23:00; set menu: 14 tapas in five servings for two: 349kr; 3332 4477; tapashuset.com Based entirely on homemade recipes handed down by the owner’s grandmother, this family business has been enjoying repeat business for nearly two decades now, and it’s no wonder. Serving tapas true to the spirit of Andalucia, they will whisk you away, with the help of some sweet sangria, to the Spanish summers long gone but well remembered. Highlights included the ‘queso frito’ (fried cheese) with sweet sauce; heavenly ‘calamares a la andaluza’; dates wrapped in bacon; and grilled shrimps soaked in garlic and chilli. Every one of them was delightful! (EN)
20TH MAY - 11AM
Photo: Hasse Ferrold
Food & drinks Live folk music Special menus Corporate events Social occassions Halloween Christmas Confirmations BRINGING HERCEGOVINA DELIGHTS TO COPENHAGEN’S FASHIONABLE SUBURB OF FREDERIKSBERG. The newly relocated Hercegovina Restaurant re-opens on 20 May in the heart of Frederiksberg’s food district. Promising the best of Hercegovina food and entertainment, for which we have become synonymous with over the past 30 years in Tivoli, you are invited to enlighten your senses to the sights, sounds and tastes of the Hercegovina region. From ‘Prsut’ and other delicious specialities emanating from Hercegovina’s kitchen, to authentic live music; what better combination is there to discover Hercegovina right here in Copenhagen.
MØRK HANSENS VEJ 2 ST. 2000 FREDERIKSBERG VED DEN SØNDERJYSKE BY TEL. +45 33 15 63 63 INFO@HERCEGOVINA.DK WWW.HERCEGOVINA.DK
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