Page 86

82 reader must

remember

to allow a great deal for 'turn-

and must on no account cut the neck away until the collar has been cut out, made, and tried on. Much of the style of the garment depends on the sit of the collar. There are some differences in the mode of finishing off from those necessary in completing a dress bodice. The fronts must be lined for a breadth of about two inches with silk, before the button-holes are worked. This linings,"

ing not only gives strength to the button-holes, but also affords a neat finish to the sides.

ished in the same manner. thick materials, braid

is

The basque

mu.st be fin-

In the case of cloth and other substituted for

silk,

as being

stronger and wearing better.

The

inside of the sleeves at the cuff

is

finished to cor-

The sleeves are not piped into the jacket as in If the bodice. They are very firmly stitched in.

respond. a dress

material be cloth, the lightly tacked

raw edges

down on

are afterwards parted and

either side.

The

stitches are not

taken through to the right side.

The collar is lined with silk, the lining being hemmed down on the inside after the collar has been stitched on. The foregoing remarks have applied more particularly form of mantle, but there is very little difference in making a dolman. The lining must be of silk, but no button-holes are necessary. The trimming round the edges may consist of fringe, lace, or silk plisses but to the jacket

;

it is

not indispensable to have any of these, more espec-

dolman be braided or embroidered. The braid much worn makes a charming especially when mixed with silk.

ially if the

fringe or tape fringe so finish,

In cutting out a fichu, the width of the material seldom admits of the whole being cut without a join, These joins should be managed so that they shall come at that

Profile for Countess Shushu von Humpton

A Guide to Dressmaking - 1876  

19th Century Dressmaking techniques

A Guide to Dressmaking - 1876  

19th Century Dressmaking techniques

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