Page 66

63

The bodice,

being joined at all the seams by the and illustrated by Fig. 3, where the overcasting is also shown, is finished by the insertion of whalebones, which are always placed at the waist side seams, at the front gores, and often in the back of the dress of the center seam. The present mode, however, has a after

close stitching,

greater

number of

side pieces

so, a greater quantity

;

whale-bones are employed, and the modern corsage

is,

of

on

the reverse side, not unlike the antique corset, so garnished

The whale-bones are carefully it appear. and cut of the exact length required the ends are scraped with a sharp knife, or rubbed down by means of a file. The object of this scraping may not be obvious we therefore explain If the to the amateur dressmaker whalebone ends were left unscraped, the dress would be marked by the ridges but by bevelling these edges, the bones do not show in the least. Fig. 33 shows the casing prepared for the reception of the bone this casing is usually made of tape, hemmed over the flattened seams, and slightly fixed on in hemming, as shown in our illustration. Fig. 34 shows the bone in place, fastened by a few stitches taken across the end to prevent it shifting up and down within the casing, which is the cause of whale-bones working through the dress. Before putting in the whale-

with bone does selected,

;

:

;

—

;

;

is placed through the thin scraped porand the stitches are taken through this hole, and thus the bone is firmly fixed. Fig. 38 shows an illustration of a bodice in course of completion. The various seams are shown the place for putting in the bones is indicated the button-holes and the marks where the buttons are sewn on will be observed all the seams are completed except those of the shoulder, which are left open to show the work in progress.

bone, a small hole tion,

;

;

;

Profile for Countess Shushu von Humpton

A Guide to Dressmaking - 1876  

19th Century Dressmaking techniques

A Guide to Dressmaking - 1876  

19th Century Dressmaking techniques

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