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APRIL 2018

S P E C I A L F E A T U R E : T + L’ S G L O B A L S H O P P I N G G U I D E

Swing into Spring THE BEST PLACES TO GO THIS SEASON

Relaxing at the Hamilton Princess & Beach Club in Bermuda.

A PERFECT WEEKEND IN

THE WILD WONDERS OF

A FAMILY TRIP TO

THE COOLEST CITY IN

BERMUDA

ECUADOR

MONTANA

GERMANY


Effortless towing. Unbridled potential.

WELCOME TO THE ENTIRELY NEW EXPEDITION. 2018 Expedition shown.


We, the people of the modern rodeo, know a little something about horsepower.


APRIL 2018

14 COUNTRIES 112,000+ MILES TRAVELED 22 WRITERS 36 PHOTOGRAPHERS

p. 74 London p. 40 Paris

p. 90 Glacier National Park, Montana p. 104 Palouse, Washington

Kyoto

New York City

p. 19 Montgomery, Alabama p. 74 Mexico City

p. 46

p. 46 Osaka

p. 82 Leipzig, Germany

p. 48, 74

p. 19 Denver

p. 19 Warsaw

p. 46, 74

p. 74 Dubai

p. 33 Bermuda

p. 26

Tokyo

Shanghai

p. 52 Belize

p. 19

Democratic Republic of the Congo

p. 66

Quito, Ecuador

p. 74

Buenos Aires

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DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

EDITOR’S NOTE

THE VIEW FROM HERE

REASONS TO TRAVEL NOW

A millennials-only river cruise, Denver’s hottest street, and other tripworthy news and events. 26

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40

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46

Two new hotels evoke Shanghai’s imperial splendor and cosmopolitan past.

48

FIRST LOOK

On the ground in Bermuda, where new hotels and cultural experiences are giving this friendly island a second wind.

52

THE PRIMER

A writer returns to Paris, a formative city of her youth, only to find traces of her earlier self wherever she turns.

MEMORY

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57

SCRAPBOOK The bakers behind the Brooklyn pie shop Four & Twenty Blackbirds document a dessert tour of Japan.

Manhattan’s once-colorless South Street Seaport is suddenly seriously cool.

66

Quito, where ancient traditions mingle with modern urbanism, is the gateway to Ecuador’s volcanoes, cloud forest, and other wonders.

NEXT ACT

CHECKING IN A private island, a resort village, and a beachside spa lead an upswing of new properties in Belize.

Travel tips, from fighting fraud overseas to getting the most out of in-flight entertainment. UPGRADE

74

82

SHOP THE WORLD Our favorite store owners on their favorite stores, products worth flying for, and guides to global shopping destinations. WHY GERMANY’S

90

AMERICAN BEAUTY

A rail journey to Montana’s Glacier National Park offers a window onto the changing West. YOUR BEST SHOT

104 A spectacular vista of the Palouse prairie in southeastern Washington, photographed by T+L reader Glenn Nagel.

MOST FASCINATING CITY IS . . . LEIPZIG

Contemporary creatives and tastemakers carry on a deep-rooted local tradition of breaking the rules.

ON THE COVER Mae van der Weide of Next Model Management wears a swimsuit by Faithfull the Brand, at the Hamilton Princess & Beach Club in Bermuda. Photograph by Cameron Hammond.


travelandleisure travelandleisure travelleisure travelleisure travelandleisure travelleisure travelandleisuremag

T+ L D I G I TA L

Weekend Wonder Before the B&Bs book up and the airfares soar, let T+L help you get your Memorial Day plans in order with our Perfect Three-Day Weekend guides. From fishing in Virginia Beach to urban exploration in Seattle, we’ve got you covered with compact itineraries for every region. tandl.me/3-day-weekend

Our shopping guides uncover gems like Maison Fenyadi, a colorful home goods store in Marrakesh, Morocco.

Get Schooled Have you ever wondered what an airplane pilot looks for when buying a suitcase? Or which camera tripod is preferred by top landscape photographers? We have, too. For our new Travel Academy video series, we check in with seasoned adventurers and test-drive trending gear to help you get equipped for your next trip. tandl.me/travelacademy

SHOP SMARTER In this issue, we explore some of the world’s great shopping cities with our favorite fashionable tastemakers (page 74). But the hunt for offbeat boutiques and can’t-live-without-it products never ends. Make tandl.me/shopping your year-round retail resource, with style handbooks and city guides packed full of editor-curated shopping itineraries. Plus: gadget reviews, scoops on big sales, and more intel.

SUBSCRIBE

4

DAILY TRANSPORTER Escape instantly with gorgeous photography features that take you to spectacular destinations.

UPGRADE Travel smarter with need-toknow updates on travel news and trends, plus tips and solutions from T+L experts.

T+L TEN An easy-to-read digest of the week’s biggest, most popular stories—so you can be sure you don’t miss the very best.

DEALS Get exclusive access to steeply discounted trips and travel essentials, all handpicked by our editors.

JUST IN Stay up-to-theminute with our bulletin of the latest stories and images published on traveland leisure.com.

DESTINATION OF THE WEEK Take a virtual deep dive into one exceptional location per week, with guides, photos, news, and more.

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F ROM L E F T: A LVA RO L E I VA; LE VI BR OW N

TANDL.ME/NEWSLETTERS


R E A D E R FAV O R I T E S

On Greene Street, in New York City’s SoHo neighborhood, find everything from high-end fashion houses (Louis Vuitton, YSL) to interior design shops (Flos, Cite) and luxury concept stores (the Webster, the Line).

Every year in our World’s Best Awards survey, we ask T+L readers to rate hotels, airlines, destinations, and more. Cities are rated on a number of characteristics, from the friendliness of the locals to the sightseeing. The shopping scene is also considered—and here is how the cities stack up. With its wide variety of boutiques, vintage shops, and flagship department stores, New York led the pack this year. Planning a trip to the Big Apple? Turn to page 74 for an insider’s shopping guide to NYC, plus tips on eight other style-minded cities. For a full list of winners, go to travelandleisure.com/worlds-best.

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New York Tokyo Dubai Paris Hong Kong Singapore Florence Milan San Miguel de Allende, Mexico 10 London K I RA T UR N B UL L

BEST CITIES FOR SHOPPING

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9


T+ L S P E C I A L S

CONTEST

Enter to Win a Stay at Charleston’s Wentworth Mansion

The annual Golden Eagle Festival in the Altai Mountains of western Mongolia is the highlight of a new trekking tour.

This year, the five-star hotel in a gracious 19thcentury residence is celebrating 20 years of Southern hospitality. To mark the occasion, Wentworth is giving away a three-day stay, plus meals, services, and gifts, with a value of more than $10,000. To enter, share a photo of your favorite travel moment at tandl.me/ wentworth-mansion by May 16.

OPERATION VACATION

8

Crooked Compass Tour of Mongolia

Mansion Hotel & Spa at Werribee Park, Australia

30 PERCENT OFF

30 PERCENT OFF

This rigorous 14-day trek through Mongolia is centered on the annual Golden Eagle Festival, during which Kazakh hunters demonstrate their birds’ abilities through traditional games and races. Other highlights include guided tours of the petroglyphs at Baga Oigor; a camel ride through the Khongor sand dune; and a visit to Karakorum, the ancient capital of the Mongol empire. A professional photographer will lead the expedition and offer expert tips for getting your best shot. The Details: 30 percent off a 14-day trip across Mongolia from October 3–16. Offer includes private transportation on guided tours, entrance fees, and flights within Mongolia. Tours from $2,962 per person; to book, visit crooked-compass. com/tour/golden-eagle-festival.

You’d never guess this sprawling bluestone mansion was just 20 miles outside Melbourne. Surrounded by 10 acres of manicured gardens, the 91-room estate could pass for an English country manor. But while the exteriors are grand and stately, the interiors are a study in contemporary design, with modern art, mirrored surfaces, and a neutral palette. Explore the nearby zoo, winery, and polo academy. Or ask the staff to arrange a picnic in the gardens. Later, indulge in a hot-stone massage at the full-service spa. The Details: 30 percent off stays through October 4. Offer includes accommodation in a Heritage room, dinner, and daily breakfast. Doubles from $255; use code TRAVEL when booking at lancemore.com.au/shop/ gift-package/mhs-wine-dine.

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NEW FROM T+L

Try the Peru Edition of Travel + Leisure Great Adventures by Butterfield & Robinson Our editors teamed up with active-travel company Butterfield & Robinson to design this one-of-a-kind itinerary through Peru. Over the nine adventure-filled days, you’ll experience the culinary and cultural pleasures of Lima and Cuzco and the archaeological wonders of Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, where you’ll stay at the Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba, selected for T+L’s It List in 2016. For more information, go to tandl.me/butterfield. Nine days from $7,995 per person.

F ROM L E F T: BAR C RO F T ME D I A V IA G E T TY IM AG ES ; P E TE R F RA N K E DWA R D S /RE D U X

At Travel + Leisure, our mission is to inspire readers to travel more— so we launched Operation Vacation, a program of exclusive travel deals, to encourage you to use all your vacation days. Whether you seek a heartpounding adventure or a pulse-slowing escape, you’ll find dozens of terrific discounts on flights, hotels, cruises, and vacation packages at travelandleisure.com/operationvacation.


EDITOR’S NOTE

@nathanlump nathan@travelandleisure.com

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BR I AN D OB E N

HOSE WHO KNOW me know that I love to shop. And I especially love to shop when I travel. There’s something about the extra sense of discovery, and the thrill of finding things that feel more unusual or special than what I could get at home, that makes it so much more fun. At least once a year, I go somewhere specifically to shop— Sweden has been my destination of choice in recent times—and it’s a real marathon. I make an exhaustive list of the stores I want to hit, plot them on a map, and plan a multiday itinerary that allows me to visit them mostly on foot. Then I pound the pavement for two or three days straight, from practically the minute the shops open to when they close, always discovering new places and things along the way. I realize that this probably sounds a bit obsessive, which is why I tend to do these trips on my own. Although I get a kick out of the intensity, there aren’t many people I know who wouldn’t tire quickly of this form of shopping-as-endurance-sport. While it might sound like just so much consumption, I believe that shopping can be culturally meaningful. The things people make and how they make those things says something about their values and their way of life. When the makers themselves are physically present (as they often are in the kinds of stores I like best), they usually turn out to be interesting people who want nothing more than to share their passion with you. All of which contributes a meaningful backstory to the things you buy and helps you feel connected to the places they come from. Shopping in stores and markets is interactive and human, and I love that travel encourages me to reconnect with that particular pleasure— for me, it’s a lot more satisfying than placing an order on a screen with a click. We know that many of you are serious shoppers and, like me, love to shop when you travel, so we hope you enjoy this month’s global guide to shopping (page 74), a look at some of the places and things that are most exciting to us right now. If shopping isn’t so much your thing, never fear—we’ve got lots more in this issue, including a whirl through Ecuador (page 66), a stop in über-creative Leipzig, Germany (page 82), a blissful weekend in Bermuda (page 33), a trip to Montana’s Glacier National Park by train (page 90), and more. Spring is on its way, and with it come more and more opportunities to travel. We hope you find plenty in here to stoke your wanderlust.


EDITOR IN CHIEF

BRAND SALES AND MARKETING

Nathan Lump

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, TRAVEL CATEGORY SALES AND LUXURY BRAND DEVELOPMENT

Jesse Ashlock EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Paul Martinez EXECUTIVE MANAGING EDITOR Laura Teusink DIGITAL DIRECTOR Miles Stiverson PHOTO DIRECTOR Scott Hall FEATURES DIRECTOR Flora Stubbs TRAVEL DIRECTOR Jacqueline Gifford FASHION DIRECTOR Melissa Ventosa Martin DEPUTY DIGITAL EDITOR Jessica Plautz ARTICLES EDITOR Peter Terzian SENIOR EDITOR Sarah Bruning WINE AND SPIRITS EDITOR Ray Isle FOOD AND TRAVEL EDITOR Lila Battis DIGITAL NEWS REPORTER Talia Avakian ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR Melanie Lieberman ASSOCIATE EDITOR Siobhan Reid ASSISTANT EDITORS John Scarpinato, Hannah Walhout ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITORS Kim Duong, Richelle Szypulski EDITORIAL OPERATIONS COORDINATOR Emma Stoneall EDITOR AT LARGE David Amsden SPECIAL CORRESPONDENTS Heidi Mitchell, Gisela Williams INTERNATIONAL EDITOR Jack Livings

Vanessa Feimer Davis EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, BRAND MARKETING Keira Ford Schuler SENIOR MANAGERS, BRAND MARKETING Antonia LoPresti-Giglio, Swathi Reddy EVENTS DIRECTOR Penni Bonaldi CONSUMER INSIGHT DIRECTOR Richard Zartarian

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Jay Meyer

VICE PRESIDENT, LUXURY BRAND SALES

ADVERTISING SALES GROUP PRESIDENT

Karen Kovacs

DIGITAL STRATEGY

Thu Phan Rodriguez

CATEGORY SALES

Lauren Newman ENTERTAINMENT Ellie Duque Kevin Martinez FINANCE Mike Schneider HEALTH CARE Heidi Anderson HOME/INDUSTRY/GOVERNMENT/TOBACCO/GOLF Nate Stamos TECHNOLOGY/TELECOMMUNICATIONS Scott Kelliher TRAVEL Jay Meyer BEAUTY

FASHION AND RETAIL

SALES OPERATIONS CHIEF BUSINESS AND SALES OPERATIONS OFFICER

Pearl Collings

DIGITAL ART DESIGN DIRECTOR

Christine Bower-Wright ART DIRECTOR Marc Davila Sam Jacobs, Chelsea Schiff

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT

Nicholas Butterworth

Mary Robnett David Kukin, Mariah Tyler ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Kira Turnbull

Lindsay Jerutis Doug Parker VICE PRESIDENT, VIDEO AND AUDIO OPS Andrew Weissman VICE PRESIDENT, AUDIENCE STRATEGY AND DIGITAL OPS Pamela Russo VICE PRESIDENT, PRODUCT Ben Ronne EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, PRODUCT Maura Charles SENIOR PRODUCT MANAGER Priscilla Tsang

PRODUCTION

CONSUMER MARKETING

SENIOR DESIGNERS

VICE PRESIDENT AND GENERAL MANAGER, AFFILIATE REVENUE AND STRATEGY

VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL DESIGN

PHOTO PHOTO EDITOR

Skye Senterfeit

ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR

ASSOCIATE DIGITAL PHOTO EDITORS

Filomena Guzzardi John Markic ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION EDITOR Ashleigh Macdonald-Bennett EDITORIAL PRODUCER Julia Warren PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

PRODUCTION MANAGER

COPY AND RESEARCH

Kathy Roberson Jenny Brown ASSOCIATE RESEARCH EDITOR Jennifer Salerno COPY AND RESEARCH CHIEF

DEPUTY COPY AND RESEARCH CHIEF

MEREDITH NATIONAL MEDIA GROUP PRESIDENT

Jon Werther

VICE PRESIDENTS

COMMUNICATIONS

Doug Olson PRESIDENT OF MEREDITH DIGITAL Stan Pavlovsky PRESIDENT OF CONSUMER PRODUCTS Tom Witschi CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER Michael Brownstein CHIEF MARKETING AND DATA OFFICER Alysia Borsa MARKETING AND INTEGRATED COMMUNICATIONS Nancy Weber EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES Brad Elders MEREDITH MAGAZINES PRESIDENT

CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER

Beth Gorry Ann Marie Doherty, Yvonne Gerald, Eric Szegda, Melissa Mahoney DIRECTORS Agnes Cronin, Jennifer Schiele, Beth Ifcher ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR Caroline Baron SENIOR MARKETING MANAGERS Zak Carrazzone, Jennifer Flynn SENIOR MANAGER BRAND STRATEGY Mackenzie Bower MARKETING MANAGER Katie Pisano ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER, RETAIL Christine Symecko ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGERS Sofia DiPersia, Christine Menchaca MARKETING COORDINATOR Jess Berko SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT

VICE PRESIDENT

Dana Baxter

SENIOR MANAGER

Reid Myers

FINANCE VICE PRESIDENT

Keith Strohmeier David Hooks

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

FINANCE MANAGERS

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT AND DEPUTY GENERAL COUNSEL ASSISTANT GENERAL COUNSEL Jane Halpern

Alan Murray Nathan Lump George Kimmerling

Abid Arshad, Catherine Keenan

LEGAL

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, LUXURY AND LIFESTYLE GROUP

OPERATIONS

EDITORIAL OPERATIONS AND FINANCE DIRECTOR

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Steven Weissman

Rosemarie Iazzetta SENIOR OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Carrie Mallie James Flynn PRODUCTION MANAGER Elizabeth Mata AD PRODUCTION SPECIALIST Kritanya Onzima Das OPERATIONS MANAGER

MEREDITH CORPORATION

Tom Harty Joe Ceryanec CHIEF DEVELOPMENT OFFICER John Zieser PRESIDENT, MEREDITH LOCAL MEDIA GROUP Paul Karpowicz PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Stephen M. Lacy Mell Meredith Frazier

GLOBAL TECHNOLOGY SERVICES

Kurt Rao Adam Days, Amanda Hanes, Hugues Hervouet, Rob Innes, Dan Lo, Keith O’Sullivan, Rajeshwari Ramamoorthy, Pradip Tripathy CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER VICE PRESIDENTS

EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN VICE CHAIRMAN

For all advertising inquiries, please e-mail advertising_contact@meredith.com.

EDITORIAL OFFICE 225 Liberty Street, New York, NY 10281, 212-522-1212. TRAVEL + LEISURE is a trademark of Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, registered in the U.S. and other countries. Customer Service and Subscriptions For 24/7 service, please use our website, travelandleisure.com/customerservice. You can also call 800-8888728 (813-979-6625 for foreign subscribers) or write to Travel + Leisure at P.O. Box 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. Occasionally, Travel + Leisure makes portions of its magazine subscriber lists available to carefully screened companies that offer special products and services. Any subscriber who does not want to receive mailings from third-party companies should contact the subscriber services department at 800-888-8728 or write to TCS, P.O. Box 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other material. To order back issues, call 800-270-3053. To order article reprints of 500 or more, call 212-221-9595. Printed in U.S.A.

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©2018 Crystal Cruises, LLC. Ships’ registry: The Bahamas and Malta.

THE WORLD’S MOST AWARDED LUXURY CRUISE LINE TM

By sea, river, land and air, we have redefined the way the world views luxury travel. Call 877-465-5698 or your travel professional. CrystalCruises.com O C E A N | R I V E R | YAC H T E X P E D I T I O N | P R I VAT E J E T J O U R N E Y S


YOUR

H J D U X R W HQ

AN ALL-INCLUSIVE EXPERIENCE

ALL INCLUDED

Kids stay free all year when you book a family room category at the all-inclusive Hard Rock Hotels. That means endless room service, live entertainment, and beautiful beaches without ever having to break the bank. It’s all the makings of an epic vacation in one beautiful location.

20% SERVICE FEES APPLY

For more information, visit hrhallinclusive.com or call 888.762.5002 Two (2) children 12 and under stay free when sharing a room with one (1) full paying adult. Promotion applies to Signature Family Suite -2 Bdrm at Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Punta Cana and Deluxe Family - 2 Rooms Connecting at Hard Rock Hotel Riviera Maya & Hard Rock Hotel Vallarta. Not applicable at Hard Rock Hotel Cancun and Hard Rock Hotel Riviera Maya-Heaven Section. Booking Window: Now - 30-Sep-2018 Travel Window: Now - 21-Dec-2018. Blackout dates apply. Child age MUST be notified at time of booking. Age reported MUST be accurate at time of travel. Proof of age will be required upon check-in. In the event that age is incorrect, the difference in the rate will be charged upon check-in. Promotion is subject to change without prior notice. Combinable with the $1,800 Limitless Resort Credit Promotion.


APRIL 2018 REASONS TO

T + L’ S M O N T H LY S E L E C T I O N O F T R I P - W O R T H Y P L A C E S , E X P E R I E N C E S , A N D E V E N T S .

An in-room library at the newly opened Raffles Europejski Warsaw.

N o.

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C O URT ESY OF R AF F L ES EUR OP EJS K I WA R SAW

A new hotel puts Warsaw on the map. The city once derided as Kraków’s gloomy Soviet sister has become Eastern Europe’s next up-and-coming destination with the addition of Raffles Europejski Warsaw (raffles. com; doubles from $290), a stately, meticulously restored 1857 property located next to the Presidential Palace in the heart of the old town. Inside, the design is something of a love letter to the city: in the lobby, art installations evoke local landmarks and Poland’s past, and a series of galleries feature art and photos from the hotel’s previous incarnations. Upstairs, the 106 rooms and suites—the largest you’ll find

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R E A S O N S T O T R AV E L N O W

Denver’s liveliest street is about to get even better. Colorado’s capital has flowing craft beer, mountain views, and a Wild West undercurrent. You can catch all that—plus the Ramble Hotel, one of this spring’s most exciting arrivals—on this stretch of Larimer Street in the River North Arts District (RiNo), within walking distance of downtown. — Eimear Lynch 1

RAMBLE HOTEL

This lavish 50-room spot has not one but four bars and cafés by the crew from New York City’s Death & Co.— and a pan-Latin restaurant by Dana Rodriguez, the chef

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4 OUR MUTUAL FRIEND BREWING

TOPO DESIGNS

Move over, Patagonia. This Colorado upstart is becoming the go-to

7

6

3 4

27th St.

1

THE POPULIST

The seasonal small plates here pull from an eclectic mix of influences—the tandoori chicken and sunchoke agnolotti are standouts. thepopulistdenver. com; entrées $15–$25.

Spot this brewery by the colorful mural out front. This is a favorite among Denverites for the house beers on tap, like session ales and barley wines. omfbeer.com.

L ARIMER ST. 2

Warsaw Old Town Market Square.

6 OK HI The décor— early Apple computers and Saved by the Bell–style prints— suggests kids these days hanker for the 1980s. The stock consists of candycolored beanies, vintage apparel, and splashy turntables. fb.com/okhico.

From coffee to ceviche, this food hall has it all. Go for cheese plates at Culture, oysters at Tammen’s, or a flight of unusual ice creams at High Point Creamery. denvercentral market.com.

of nearby Work & Class. theramble hotel.com; doubles from $267. 2

3 DENVER CENTRAL MARKET

7

5

32nd St.

2

5 PUPIL Like the eyeglasses within, this shop is thoughtful and minimal. The brand’s sunglasses, crafted in Denver, make for a stylish souvenir. pupil.vision.

30th St.

N o.

outfitter for outdoorsy types. Stop by for a camp blanket made in collaboration with Woolrich or to shop the wall of brightly colored packs. topodesigns.com.

F ROM L E F T: LUCAS VA L LEC I L LO S/ VW PI C S / R E D U X ; A N D R E A B E H RE N D S; MOR GA N R ACHE L LE V Y

Right: Izzio Bakery at Denver Central Market, on Larimer Street. Below: Coffee-rubbed pork with semolina gnocchi, baby artichokes, and blue grits, at the Populist, in Denver.

25th St.

in Warsaw—are furnished with bespoke pieces by local craftspeople. Even the bathrooms have a sense of place: the marble paneling is patterned after the city’s skyline. The hotel offers a new entry point to Warsaw’s surprisingly cosmopolitan appeal. Start your day with a cup of single-origin coffee at Ministerstwo Kawy (ministerstwokawy.pl) or Niezłe Ziółko (fb.com/niezleziolko. warszawa), cafés in the quirky Plac Zbawiciela neighborhood. Then take in some culture, beginning with a visit to the Warsaw Uprising Museum (1944.pl), honoring the 1944 Polish-resistance-led insurrection to drive out the Nazis. Head next to Wilanów Palace (wilanow-palac.pl), the 17th-century royal residence. At the little-known Fotoplastikon (fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl), a stereoscope theater built in 1905 projects street scenes from turn-of-the-century Warsaw in 3-D. For a more modern brand of nostalgia, there’s the Neon Museum (neonmuzeum.org), which has floor-to-ceiling displays of neon signs, colorful relics of the Cold War. Warsaw’s blossoming culinary scene challenges the notion that Poles eat only pierogi and borscht. At new food courts like Hala Gwardii (halagwardii. pl) and Hala Koszyki (koszyki. com), you can sample vegan Palestinian dishes, Georgian khinkali, Italian cheeses—and yes, pierogi and borscht. Save room for a nightcap at Kita Koguta (kitakoguta.pl), where mixologists conduct a brief interview (“Gin or vodka? Classic or experimental?”) before making drinks to individual tastes. — Benjamin Kemper


ĒĠĝěęĪĜĬĠęĬ

ĬęģĝīıħĭĬĠĝĪĝ ćĬƷīđġĥĨĤĝąĝĬĬĠĝāęĨġĬęĤčĦĝƥ ĔĝĦĬĭĪĝƥěęĪĜĬħĝęĪĦĭĦĤġĥġĬĝĜ ĜħĭĚĤĝĥġĤĝīħĦĝĮĝĪıĨĭĪěĠęīĝ ĝĮĝĪıĜęıęĦĜĪĝĜĝĝĥĬĠħīĝĥġĤĝī ĞħĪęĦıǎġğĠĬħĦęĦıęġĪĤġĦĝ

āĪĝĜġĬęĨĨĪħĮęĤĪĝĩĭġĪĝĜĐĝĜĝĝĥĥġĤĝīĞħĪĬĪęĮĝĤħĦęĦıęġĪĤġĦĝĚęīĝĜħĦęěĬĭęĤĬġěģĝĬĨĪġěĝęĬĬġĥĝħĞĨĭĪěĠęīĝčljĝĪĝĜĚıāęĨġĬęĤčĦĝĀęĦģÕēđÿÖČÿƣ! &āęĨġĬęĤčĦĝ


R E A S O N S T O T R AV E L N O W

A room on U by Uniworld’s millennial-friendly ship, The B. N o.

3

River cruising is getting a millennial-friendly makeover.

U BY UNIWORLD THE B

On the Joie de Vivre, 19th-century George Goursat caricatures, silk wall coverings, and jacquard textiles by Sanderson transport travelers to a bygone Paris.

An eye-catching matte-black exterior and graphic print walls decorated with monochrome portraits of celebrities such as Britney Spears and The Weeknd are ready-made for Instagram.

CUISINE

Traditional French fare—sole meunière, beef bourguignon, cheeses from Normandy—prevails, as do formal dinners. And naturally, there’s plenty of wine.

Trade breakfast for a leisurely brunch with pressed juices, smoothies, croissants, and savory dishes. Cruisers can elbow up to communal tables as they please.

Afternoons may be spent attending a lecture on Impressionism or enjoying afternoon tea. Come nightfall, the onboard spa transforms into a glitzy supper club playing French films.

Daylight hours are for mixology classes and yoga on the top deck. In the evening, join a drum circle, pajama party, or silent disco in the rooftop Ice Bar. And don’t miss the photo booth!

The Joie de Vivre sails along the Seine from Paris, stopping in Giverny for a bike tour to Monet’s gardens, Rouen for the cathedral and golf, and the D-Day beaches of Normandy. uniworld.com; eight nights from $2,799.

The B traces the same route, but shore excursions include more highenergy options. In the Giverny area, you can skip Monet and go kayaking or paragliding. ubyuniworld.com; eight nights from $1,759.

ROUTE

DESIGN

UNIWORLD JOIE DE VIVRE

E N T E R TA I N M E N T

Most young travelers assume cruising’s not for them—but U by Uniworld, a line exclusively for 21- to 45-year-olds, aims to change that. Can’t choose a camp? Here are the differences between a voyage on Uniworld’s latest more traditional launch, Joie de Vivre, and one Gen Y–geared ship, The B. — Melanie Lieberman

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This book shines a light on the world’s literary towns. If you’re an ink-andpaper loyalist, Alex Johnson’s Book Towns: Forty-Five Paradises of the Printed Word (Frances Lincoln, $23), out this month, will soon be your favorite travel guide. It’s a love letter to reader havens around the world, like Cuisery, in France’s Burgundy region (above), where a monthly book market and more than a dozen bookstores saved the town from ruin. Whether your travels take you near (Stillwater, Minnesota) or far (Featherston, New Zealand), chances are there’s a literary utopia within reach.

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In Montgomery, Alabama, a new museum confronts the enduring impact of slavery. The Legacy Museum (museumandmemorial.eji.org), which opens on April 26, explores how slavery has shaped America, from the antebellum South to the modern prison system. This month marks 50 years since Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination, so it’s a fitting time to visit this or one of the other recently opened institutions that honor the black liberation struggle, like the National Museum of African American History & Culture (nmaahc.si.edu), in Washington, D.C., and the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum (mcrm.mdah.ms.gov), in Jackson.

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Gorilla trekking is taking off in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. With Rwandan permits now pricier than ever—an hour with gorillas will run you $1,500—outfitters are doubling down on their offerings in the more affordable DRC. The population of mountain gorillas in Virunga National Park has quadrupled in recent decades, the result of increased security and environmental measures. Deeper Africa adds the Call of the Congo itinerary (deeperafrica.com; eight days from $7,499) to the park beginning in July, with stays on an island in Lake Kivu and visits with a canine anti-poaching unit. Or book a custom itinerary with Journeys by Design (journeysbydesign. com; prices on request) that includes excursions to the Nyiragongo Volcano’s lava lake and the Senkwekwe Center gorilla orphanage. The 3,000-square-mile park is the continent’s most biodiverse protected area, with ecosystems that range from savannas to active volcanoes, so between gorilla treks you can spot chimpanzees, okapi, and some of the 700-odd bird species that make the park their home. — Jen Salerno


FIRST LOOK

Through the Mists of Time

told, is leading THE NEW CHINA, we’re the world into the 21st

Above: Amanyangyun, a new hotel outside Shanghai, contains ancient houses and trees relocated from a village 400 miles away.

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century, with its global infrastructure projects and planetary investment portfolios. I visit the country frequently and find the reality to be a little more complex. In fact, I’m often struck by how much the past looms over the collective imagination, and am left wondering how much of the Cultural Revolution’s violent destruction of heritage has yet to be truly reckoned with. Perhaps that’s one of the reasons why, over the last 30 years or so, a movement to reassemble bits and pieces of China’s shattered traditions has been slowly gathering momentum. On a recent trip, I was excited to witness this reappropriation of history at play in a field where other cultures have long used it— the design of hotels. I visited two luxury properties that have taken restoration to ambitious new heights: the Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li (capellahotels.com; doubles from $627), which has reimagined the European-Chinese architecture of the 1930s in a renovated residential complex in the French Concession; and Amanyangyun (aman.com; doubles from

$825), where an entire centuriesold village has been relocated to a rural suburb 17 miles outside the city. The Capella sets out to transport guests back to Shanghai’s glamorous interwar heyday, while Amanyangyun’s meticulously restored Ming- and Qing-era villas evoke an even more distant past. Together, the hotels open up the idea of a new kind of urban tourism— one far removed from the plateglass modernity of Chinese cliché. One of the first things to strike me at Amanyangyun was the trees. No fewer than 1,000 primeval camphor trees grow around the property, binding its modern and ancient elements together and offering a glimpse of the Jingxia province village they

C O URTESY OF A M A N R ES ORTS

After a decades-long love affair with the future, China is looking to the past for design inspiration. LAWRENCE OSBORNE checks in to two new— yet distinctly historic—Shanghai hotels.


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FIRST LOOK

FIVE NEW, MODERN SHANGHAI HOTELS In addition to the two historic properties profiled here, Shanghai has many more hotels arriving on the scene. From low-key boutique openings to grand projects by big, international brands, here is our pick of the best. W SHANGHAI–THE BUND

The 374 rooms and suites in this soaring glass skyscraper on the North Bund are inspired by the concept of haipai—an eclectic, East-meets-West aesthetic

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native to Shanghai. Don’t miss the view of Pudong and the Oriental Pearl tower from the terrace Wet Bar. wshanghaithe bund.com; doubles from $315. BELLAGIO SHANGHAI

Set on the banks of the central Suzhou Creek, Bellagio’s first property outside Las Vegas features imports from the flagship—like a restaurant from Sin City chef Julian Serrano— as well as Shanghai-specific touches such as on-site acupuncture and Chinese Art Deco design motifs. bellagioshanghai.com; doubles from $395.

The reconstruction of the houses was even more complex. Each of the 26 antique villas on the property consists of more than 100,000 stones—all of which had to be numbered individually before the buildings could be deconstructed and patiently reassembled like matchstick ships, with not a single stone out of place. The effect is quite remarkable: the structures feel as if they have been here for centuries. Stepping inside these transplanted buildings, I was even more impressed. Their lofty ceilings are lined with elaborately carved wooden beams, while those with studies have antique desks worthy of a Confucian scholar. Each house is arranged around a serene central courtyard, where the layers of enveloping stone ensure minimal noise penetrates from the outside. In addition to the traditional houses, 13 of which are available to guests, there’s a brand-new resort wing with 24 suites spread along silent corridors, left open to the elements along one side. This decidedly modern part of the property is arranged around little ponds and water channels that deliver an atmosphere of monastic simplicity. At daybreak, as a winter mist swept in and an outdoor fire flickered in my private courtyard, the clean, contemporary aesthetic somehow enhanced the feeling of being displaced from the present— certainly the manic present of

MIDDLE HOUSE

Due to open in April, this follow-up to the beloved House Collective properties in Beijing, Hong Kong, and Chengdu is Swire Hotels’ first Shanghai project. Located in the historic Dazhongli neighborhood, the hotel will have monochrome interiors and a restaurant from legendary New York chef Gray Kunz. the-house-collective.com; rates not available at press time. BULGARI HOTEL SHANGHAI

Part of the Foster & Partners– designed Suhe Creek development, the property, which opens later this spring, will

include a Chinese fine-dining restaurant that will be housed in the iconic 1916 Shanghai Chamber of Commerce building. bulgarihotels.com; rates not available at press time. SHANGHAI EDITION

Coming up this summer, the latest property from the fastgrowing Edition brand will be located in two towers minutes from the Bund. The hotel will have 145 sleek guest rooms and nearly a dozen places to eat and drink—including two rooftop bars and a sprawling Cantonese restaurant. editionhotels.com; rates not available at press time.

C O URTESY OF A M A N R ES ORTS

Below: A living room in one of the villas at Amanyangyun— each of which was transported from another location and rebuilt using 100,000 carefully numbered stones.

came from—now submerged underwater by a dam project. Billionaire entrepreneur Ma Dadong, the CEO of investment firm Shanghai Gu Shan and the Gu Yin real estate group, brought them here from his home village, more than 400 miles away, when a proposed reservoir threatened to drown a centuries-old forest and the village within it. The dam was completed in 2006, but not before Ma had succeeded in transplanting the ancient trees, along with 50 stone village houses, to the outskirts of Shanghai. The trees were so large (some weighed 70 tons) that Ma had to pay for the demolition of toll gates between Jingxia and Shanghai so the trucks could get past. The transplanted forest then had to be brought back to life in its new soil—a process that took Aman’s team of gardeners several years.


FIRST LOOK

C O URT ESY OF T H E CA PE LL A S H A N G H A I (2 )

Above: The entrance to Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, the French restaurant at the new Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li hotel. Right: The entrance to one of the Capella’s Shikumen Villas, which are housed in traditional 1930s town houses.

modern-day Shanghai. This is a place where you can still practice the ancient art of solitude. The Capella Shanghai, by contrast, occupies a former French housing complex called the Yian Ye Li estate, where narrow, two-story linked houses—until recently occupied by residential communities—are arranged along paved lanes known as longtang. It’s an Art Deco–era village fully resurrected within a Chinese metropolis—specifically, the Xuhui historic district still popularly known as the French Concession. This fully fledged city hotel is Capella’s first foray into the Chinese market, and the company was determined to make the property an original one. By and large, I think it has succeeded. The original buildings embody a blend of Western and local architecture that first became popular in Shanghai in the middle of the 19th century—and which eventually characterized more than half of the city’s housing. Known as “lane houses” (or lilong in Chinese), the buildings were conceived around a strong communal ethos. Each has imposing stone gates with a narrow yard or garden inside; indoors, the design is very similar to a Western town house. The Yian Ye Li estate is the last remaining complex of its kind left intact in Shanghai— 462,000 square feet of 1930s heritage now turned into a hotel unlike any other in the city. The Capella consists of 55 villas and 40 residences with interiors that are carefully calibrated to match the theme of Shanghai nostalgia, overlaying French design elements with delicate touches of chinoiserie. In other respects, the hotel feels more up-to-date. The restaurant, franchised to French chef Pierre Gagnaire, has a boatshaped bar set under gabled wooden rafters. When I visited for dinner the atmosphere was suitably decadent, the room filled with Shanghai’s beautiful people—some of them apparently clothed by the upscale tailors currently housed in the hotel’s retail spaces. In the basement, there’s now a high-tech spa,

a hydrotherapy tank, and a curious meditation room encrusted with pink salt. Behind the lanes, meanwhile, there are secret gardens with floor lanterns and long, bubbling pools, which enable guests to retreat as far from modern-day Shanghai as they want to go. My maisonette could not have been more secluded, tucked away in a private lane behind iron gates. I thought about the workers who lived here in the 30s, who lived through the Japanese occupation and the Revolution. There was no trace of them now, but I still felt their presence. In fact, at both Capella and the Aman I felt shifted subtly back into the past, though never in a way that felt obvious or kitsch. Could history be the new luxury in China? As fragments of the nation’s heritage become harder to find, their value is certainly appreciating in the eyes of a rising middle class. Whether you choose to experience this shift through a stay at the soulful, contemplative Amanyangyun or a visit to the charismatic Capella, to my mind it represents nothing but good news for the future of Chinese hotels. Lawrence Osborne is a novelist based in Bangkok.

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THE PRIMER

Bermuda, Back in the Groove Hoteliers and entrepreneurs are breathing fresh life into this Atlantic island, where the cultural experiences are just as spectacular as the pink sand and fresh lobster. Jacqueline Gifford discovers its singular charms.

From left: Freshly caught spiny lobster at Wahoo’s Bistro & Patio, a seafood restaurant in St. George; Tobacco Bay, a popular beach for swimming in St. George’s parish.

you so long to come to Bermuda?” SO, WHAT  took My husband, Rob, and I were sitting at the handsome wood-paneled bar of the Rosewood Bermuda, and the bartender, Owen Lightbourne, was everso-politely calling us out. We’d just arrived at the palatial resort, which sits a stone’s throw from sprawling estates owned by people like Michael Bloomberg and Ross Perot. There are four pools, a croquet lawn, and sweeping ocean views. Our room wasn’t ready yet, so we were killing time while our toddler, Bobby, happily ran between our seats. The honest answer, we explained, was that we’d put Bermuda off because it always seemed too close, too easy. Before parenthood, our priorities were faraway and exotic. Now a destination within easy reach—one with beautiful beaches, no less—is salvation. But you don’t have to be a parent to appreciate Bermuda’s appeal. A fishhook-shaped archipelago with pink shores in

Photographs by Kira Turnbull

the middle of the Atlantic, it is quiet, beautiful, and steeped in history. First inhabited by the English in 1609, Bermuda was a trading hub for hundreds of years. In the 20th century, it became a vacation spot for the East Coast elite, who would hop over to golf and tan and sip rum swizzles at the Elbow Beach hotel, a mainstay in the 60s and 70s. In later decades, as development slowed and tourism took a back seat to more lucrative industries, such as insurance and banking, the glitterati decamped for the scenier, sunnier Caribbean islands of Anguilla and St. Bart’s. I still have to remind friends, many of them savvy travelers, that this British overseas territory is not in the Caribbean, but 650 miles due east of North Carolina—with a similar high season that runs May through September.

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THE PRIMER

In the past few years, though, Bermuda has made a comeback, in part because it was the location of the 2017 America’s Cup. The highprofile sailing regatta provided incentive for new hotels to open and old hotels to spruce themselves up. What’s more, couples are again choosing Bermuda for an easy seaside escape, thanks to its Zika-free beaches. More luxury resorts will be opening in the next two years, along with a new passenger terminal at the airport. As I discovered during my visit, Bermudians are excited to have their home back in the conversation again. Here, the top reasons to visit right now.

At the Loren, we saw couples staring out to sea, as if hypnotized by the waves. writing desks for a more streamlined aesthetic. What hasn’t changed: the secluded, quarter-mile beach. On a clear October day, we played with Bobby in the sun-warmed waves to his endless amusement (and ours). I didn’t need to fly to Bali to find this level of joy.

Someone else does the driving. The hotels are upping their game. Before staying at the Rosewood, we checked in to the Loren (thelorenhotel.com; doubles from $550). “People tell me their parents used to come here,” explained Stephen King, the hotel’s developer, over coffee at the open-air restaurant. When the British-born, New York–based financier found a decaying property on Pink Sand Beach, a quiet spot along the southern shore, he saw potential in those sweeping Atlantic views. So he tore down the old structure and embarked on the island’s first new build in nearly a decade. The Loren, he says, “shows what Bermuda can be.” The 45 suites, with their warm wood floors, crisp blue accents, and freestanding tubs, are stylish and spacious, starting at 600 square feet. At the cliffside infinity pool, we saw couples staring out to sea, as if hypnotized by the waves crashing over the rocks. At first we felt slightly out of place with Bobby, but the staff put us at ease by spoiling him with fries and pizza. Two luxury resorts, both from Marriott International, are in the pipeline. The 79-room Ritz-Carlton Reserve Hotel at Caroline Bay, overlooking a secluded cove on the West End, will open in 2019. The 122-room St. Regis Bermuda, near the eastern town of St. George, will follow in 2020. Meanwhile, older properties are shifting away from British-colonial décor. Thanks to a $100 million revamp, the 133-year-old Hamilton Princess & Beach Club (thehamiltonprincess.com; doubles from $379), a grand pink-and-white building in the heart of the capital, Hamilton, now doubles as a contemporary art museum, with blue-chip pieces by the likes of Jeff Koons, Banksy, and Ai Weiwei. Our suite even had a Warhol. And this month, the Rosewood Bermuda (rosewoodhotels.com; doubles from $728), a 92-room property in the tony enclave of Tucker’s Point, unveils its new look. What was a formal library is now a more casual bar, while the rooms have lost their penny-tile bathrooms and

By law, tourists can’t rent cars in Bermuda. They can, however, ride mopeds, which can be a hairraising experience, thanks to traic and twisty roads. As of last year, there is also the Twizy, an electric car outfitted with two cockpit-style seats—fun, but it only works if you’re traveling as a couple. I suggest the public bus or taxis, the latter especially for the convenience factor. With a toddler in tow, taxis, though not always the most economical route, were our choice because we could appreciate the surroundings and beach-hop with ease. Bermuda’s winding rural roads, edged

Below: The Hamilton Princess hotel displays art throughout the property, such as the sculpture At This Time, Companion Series by Kaws.


Clockwise from top left: Kristin White, who offers historical bike and walking tours in the town of St. George; the lounge area at the Loren; roasted cauliflower at Marcus’, a restaurant by celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson in the Hamilton Princess.

by centuries-old limestone walls, are beautiful. I loved peering out at the immaculate, pastelcolored homes and the towering palmettos. At night, I could hear tree frogs whistle.

You will talk to locals. To explore Bermuda’s past, we started in St. George. The island’s first permanent settlement, dating back to 1612, has a champion in Kristin White, a young entrepreneur who offers bike excursions and “haunted history” walking tours of the village. “I want other people to get excited about our stories,” White said one morning at the Tucker House. She just turned the 1752 building’s cellar into a concept store, Long Story Short (longstoryshort.life), where customers can browse for gifts (jewelry, books, head scarves), rent bikes, and, of course, chat with her. We walked the cobblestoned lanes, stopping at the 1707 Bridge House, one of the oldest buildings in St. George. White told us that the house had once been owned by Bridger Goodrich, a white Bermudian. After his death, one of his female slaves, Philippa, won her freedom from his son, after arguing in court that Goodrich had promised it to her. White’s tours are bookable through Winnow (winnow.life), a new app that allows you to arrange guided snorkel trips, paddleboarding sessions through mangroves, even hands-on beekeeping. “It’s a host in your pocket,”

said Alison Swan, who created the platform with her friend, William West. Winnow’s most popular outing is a cocktail hour in a Bermudian home, something I was eager to test. “In the heyday of the 50s and 60s, people would open their houses all the time,” she explained. “We’re trying to bring that graciousness back.” One night, Swan took us to Shelly Bay, where we met William’s parents, Jenny and Blake West, in a house Blake had built himself. We talked politics, there and at home, and raising kids. The Wests didn’t know us from Adam, yet they happily opened their doors (as they do for all Winnow guests), and somehow, we all managed to make conversation and learn from one another.

The seafood is superb. When it comes to restaurants, Bermuda is not Copenhagen or Tokyo. Nor does it pretend to be. What it does well is seafood, simply cooked and plated. One of our best meals was at Wahoo’s Bistro & Patio (wahoos.bm; entrées $14–$42), a casual restaurant in St. George that specializes

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ŠJ&JCI 2017

Why Jennifer Garner never skips sunscreen, even when it’s cold and rainy. The sun is up there shining 365 days a year. Summer or winter, its UVA rays can pass through clouds, haze, even windows. The more unprotected sun exposure you get, the greater your risk of developing skin cancer. In fact, 1 in 5 Americans will develop skin cancer in their lifetime. Protection and early detection are the key to survival. For sun safety tips and life-saving tools, like a free dermatologist skin cancer screening, self-exam kit, and discounts on sunscreen products, go to ChooseSkinHealth.com

#ChooseSkinHealth

with participation from


THE PRIMER

I loved peering out at the immaculate, pastel-colored homes and the towering palmettos. in spiny, clawless Bermuda lobster—sweeter than Maine lobster, just as incredible with drawn butter and fries. There is fierce debate over who serves the best fish sandwich. At Art Mels Spicy Dicy (9 St. Monica’s Rd.; 441-295-3965; entrées $12–$23), a no-frills storefront outside Hamilton, locals start lining up at noon for sandwiches piled high with lightly battered grouper or wahoo. Woodys Sports Bar & Restaurant (1 Boaz Island; 441-234-6526; entrées $18–$30), on the way to the Dockyard, has more atmosphere (picnic tables, a Top 40 soundtrack) and superior sauce. There is no debate about the correct way to order a fish sandwich: always on raisin bread, never on a plain bun. For a family night, Village Pantry (villagepantry. bm; entrées $18–$38), in the seaside town of Flatts Village, is a winner. We ate fish tacos on the patio while Bobby flirted with two older girls in the yard next door. Ruby Murrys (yellowfin.bm; entrées $15–$25), an Indian restaurant on a side street in Hamilton, serves a wicked Goan coconut fish curry. For a date night, visit Rosedon Hotel, set in an early-20th-century residence, and eat at one of the quiet patio tables at newcomer Huckleberry (rosedon.com; entrées $25–$64). The chef, Lucy Collins, who was born in Charleston, South Carolina, serves divine Southern-style crab cakes and tender, pasture-raised rack of lamb.

But the weather can change on a dime. When it did, we headed for Hamilton, where the tidy streets are lined with one-of-a-kind shops, many in operation since the early 1900s. The Bermuda Bookstore (bermudabookstore.com), on the corner of Queen and Front, is crammed with best sellers and lesser-known historical books about the island. I grabbed (and devoured) Kiernan Doherty’s Sea Venture, about Bermuda’s first colonists. Just up Queen Street is Della Valle Sandals (dvsandals.com), a shoe shop named for its vivacious Italian proprietor. After he offered us espressos, I got fitted for custom sandals made of buttery soft leather in bright primary colors. A more surprising find: the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art (bermudamasterworks. org), a collection of more than 1,800 pieces inspired by the island. Set in the middle of Bermuda’s 36-acre Botanical Gardens, it includes marquee examples by Georgia O’Keeffe and Winslow Homer. During our visit, the quiet gallery showcased 119 contemporary sculptures, paintings, and mixed-media compositions by aspiring artists competing for the biannual $10,000 Charman Prize. Not every example was polished, but that didn’t matter. The exhibition looked forward, toward a new generation of creatives playing and testing and imagining their home, for all the world to see. Jacqueline Gifford is the travel director at Travel + Leisure.

Rainy days can be fun. When it was sunny, we spent hours outside, watching from the infinity pool at the Princess as yachts cruised into Hamilton or looking for shells on the wide expanse of Elbow Beach.

From left: Visiting a Bermudian home, which travelers can do through a new app, Winnow; St. George, a UNESCO World Heritage site where buildings date back to the 17th and 18th centuries.

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LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY

FA R M T O T A B L E S I N C E 17 7 5

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MEMORY

I’ll Always Have Paris Twenty years after running away to the City of Light, Tess Taylor returns and finds shadows of her younger self.

speeding

WE WERE through Paris

after landing at Charles de Gaulle, and my heart was beating fast. It had been two decades since I’d been to the city. I craned out the cab window hungrily. I couldn’t wait to wander the Marais, or shop on Boulevard de Sébastopol for ham and eggs and white asparagus to whip up into brunch. As my husband and I made our way to the attic apartment we had rented, I was amazed at how sharply I recognized the churches and alleyways, and how, after a few hours, my rusty French began to quicken on my tongue. My reentry was also a homecoming. When I was 19, I abruptly dropped out of college and ran away to Paris. I left the U.S. in January with little more than a one-way ticket, six years of public school French, and $700 to my name. I couch-surfed a bit, first with the baroness grandmother of a friend, then with a distant acquaintance. Finally, nearly broke, I checked into a Protestant youth hostel in the Sixth Arrondissement, renting a narrow bunk that I shared with Elise, a Scottish redhead. We ventured out daily to look for work and mostly came

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MEMORY

back empty-handed. For breakfast, the hostel put out long baguettes and butter and strawberry jam, as well as bowls of steaming milk and coffee. Every day for weeks this was my only full meal, and each morning it was a delicious miracle—in memory, still the best coffee I’ve ever had. Nights, we raish hostel dwellers sometimes slunk into the building’s basement, a dark medieval cave where we lit candles and drank cheap red wine. Living in Paris was heady, a bit stressful, and somewhat improbable. But over the weeks, my French improved. I landed a job as a translator at the Hôtel Ritz Escoier École, where I learned to cook poulet à l’estragon and crumbly chestnut gâteau. A stageset life assembled around me. I’d while away cold winter hours at Shakespeare & Co., the legendary Left Bank bookshop, reading poetry—Pound, Baudelaire, Beckett, Stein. I made friends with a Swedish watchmaker and a Norman duke. Eventually, a former boyfriend showed up, and we rented a narrow apartment near St. Eustache, on a white-cobblestoned street I adored the second I saw it. All the while I worked and read and explored new quartiers. My walk to the Ritz took me past the Louvre, and I would pop in most afternoons using my student card. On each visit I’d sit with a single painting, teaching myself to see what it was I loved in art. One day it was a Neoclassical David; another day a delicate, shadowy Vermeer. It wasn’t all perfect—the boyfriend and I fought, and money was wildly tight. But it was remarkable, absorbing this world week after week; learning to joke in French, to taste and wander like a proud flaneuse. By the time I left in the summer, I had cheap espadrilles, a short Jean Seberg haircut, and a 1970s-style belted blue leather coat I’d picked up at the Marché aux Puces. I felt ready to face down my adulthood.

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It is as if the city holds within its knotty streets not only the ghosts of artists and lovers, but your own ghost, too. ast year I returned to give a lecture about poetry to some American students. I couldn’t help glimpsing myself in them, recalling my life in the city as a young would-be poet. I’d turn a corner to see a flash of my own self 20 years earlier, dashing down an alley after art or bread. I was taking in not just the Pompidou but the memory of first entering the Pompidou; running along the quays below the Pont des Arts, I was also running after my headstrong former self. In the Jardin du Luxembourg I had a vivid memory of sharing warm ham crêpes on a cold evening with Elise before heading to that hostel basement to play guitars and flirt in all the languages we knew. “The shape of a city changes more quickly than a mortal’s heart,” said Baudelaire in a famous poem about Paris, but this isn’t quite true. Paris, when you’ve loved it, also seems to save a bit of you waiting, unchanged, in its crevices. It is as if the city holds within its knotty streets not only the ghosts of artists and lovers, but your own ghost, too. This trip, we stayed in the Seventh, in a tall crumbling building mere

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blocks from the hostel I lived in decades ago. One night my husband and I slunk out to La Vénus Noire, another venerable basement speakeasy, to listen to jazz. Walking home that evening, after passing the stone lions in the fountains at the Place St.-Sulpice, I led us back through a familiar alley, as if toward my old hostel. I found the wall now inscribed with “Le Bateau Ivre,” Rimbaud’s poem about the seasickness of travel and longing. I stopped to savor it, dizzy between worlds. The next day, I made a pilgrimage to Shakespeare & Co. In the cluttered stacks of a second-floor room was a copy of the book of poems I’d recently published. With wonder, I saluted the brazen, wayward young woman I’d been. Looking at the Seine that night, I thought how the self is a series of refractions, sticky with place. The pieces flash back, like light on the river. There are our hearts, fluttering in the world, glittering, waiting to be rediscovered. Tess Taylor is a poet based in California. Her most recent book is Work & Days.


For some, it’s sitting down to the first five-star dinner of the trip, and being transported by the rich, unexpected flavors awaiting you. For others, it’s sailing into an exotic, remote port without another ship in sight. And for you, it’s the little things. Discover your moment.

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Japan, One Bite at a Time On a recent dessert tour, the bakers behind the beloved Brooklyn pie company Four & Twenty Blackbirds gained new insight into a culture that prizes intention, presentation, and optimal deliciousness.

FINDING HARMONY Emily: We got these

ice creams 1 at one of the many stalls near the Fushimi Inari shrine in Kyoto. One is black sesame, and the other is yuzu. We had a scoop of hojicha as well, a roasted green tea

with a hint of toasted marshmallow. Melissa: One thing Japanese desserts do well is balance. Nothing is too sweet, and ingredients that might traditionally be savory are used to add nuance. That’s something we also try for in our flavor profiles. E: We loved the temples in Kyoto, like Kiyomizu-dera 2 (kiyomizudera.or.jp). We hiked there from where we were staying, and there’s a beautiful view of the city. Kyoto is a very sacred place, both spiritually and to Japanese culture as a whole.

IT ALL STARTED WITH A MATCHA-CUSTARD PIE. While fine-tuning their

recipe, Emily and Melissa Elsen, the sister-sister duo behind would eventually lead them all the way to Japan. “We met a woman who knew the owner of Ippodo Tea, a 300-year-old family business in Kyoto,” Emily says. “They produce a superfine, high-quality matcha, and sourcing from them really improved our custard. That’s probably what prompted everything.” That pie would end up connecting the Elsens with more Japanese producers and, ultimately, the New York Fair—a Big Apple–themed arts-and-culture festival at Osaka’s Hankyu Department Store (hankyu-dept.co.jp). For the past two years, the sisters have been the fair’s pie ambassadors, and last year they extended their trip into a full-fledged dessert-research expedition. Their latest project, a 10-seat bar and pie counter in Brooklyn’s Prospect Heights neighborhood, channels the hyper-focused, hole-in-the-wall restaurant culture they admired in Japan, where some restaurants only do ramen, some only soba. The Elsens? They do pie. — Hannah Walhout

46

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C O URTESY OF FOU R & T WE N T Y B L AC KB IR D S

Four & Twenty Blackbirds (birdsblack.com) stumbled on a source that


HIDDEN TREASURES E: We went to

Yamanashi, a day trip from Tokyo, to see Mount Fuji 3 and the surrounding fruit-growing region. There, we visited the Haramo winery (haramo. com), which was special since we had no idea there was wine making in Japan. They’re known for their Koshu white wine, and they served a lunch of fresh produce grown on the property. M: This Mount Fuji cake 4 was so

3

cute. E: We bought it at the mountain base—it was angel food with a dusting of cocoa and powdered sugar. For Japanese sweets, the way things are crafted and presented is really important. M: There’s always a little special something. We found the dedication to quality incredible.

F ROM TOP : C O URTESY OF FOU R & T WE N T Y B L AC K B IR D S (5 ); PAOL A + MU RR AY /CO U RTESY O F FO U R & TW E NTY B L ACK B IR D S

5

4

AMERICAN PIE E: We spent two

FOOD FOR THOUGHT E: We were

interested in the whole canon of Japanese cookery, and we saw that the idea of people cooking in front of you is important. At Nishiki Market 5 in Kyoto (kyoto-nishiki. or.jp), there’s vendor

after vendor selling prepared foods— yakitori, grilled octopus—and stalls with, say, every kind of seaweed. I could spend days there. M: There’s a real appreciation for anything delicious. I couldn’t choose a favorite place. Every time we ate, it was yet another amazing experience.

weeks in Osaka baking more than 500 pies. We baked all day long. People watched us behind the glass and lined

6

up—our saltedcaramel apple pie is always the bestselling food item at the festival! M: Only a few places in Japan bake pie, and even then, it’s presented as an American product. We would love to open a shop there. E: For now, we have hojicha and blacksesame-custard pies 6 on our menu, and we’re thinking about developing other flavors we loved, like salted cherry blossom.


NEX T ACT

was more surprised

Bowne & Co. Stationers, a print shop in Manhattan’s Seaport District; Above right: A guest room at the new Mr. C Seaport hotel.

On the Waterfront With a sleek new hotel and reimagined Pier 17, New York City’s once-snoozy South Street Seaport is finally springing back to life. By Lila Battis 48

travelandleisure.com

learn that South Street Seaport— a patch of land at Manhattan’s lower end, right where the East River widens into New York Harbor— had become cool. For a generation, suburban-mall mainstays dominated its cobblestoned streets, giving locals little reason to make a trip. Then last year, developers launched a campaign to infuse the area—redubbed Seaport District NYC—with creative energy in the form of buzzy chef residencies, live music, and pop-up shops. The evolution had begun years earlier, after the area was badly damaged by Hurricane Sandy in 2012. But by mid 2017, there was little doubt: Seaport, oddly enough, had become Manhattan’s neighborhood to watch. These days, smaller merchants have mostly supplanted or outlived the retail giants. Northern Grade (northerngrade.com), a market of American-made housewares and apparel, opened a flagship in 2015, not far from Farm Candy (farmcandyshop. com), which sells small-batch pantry products, and Bowne & Co. Stationers (southstreetseaportmuseum.org), a paper goods store and print

K I RA T UR N B UL L ( 2 )

NO ONE than New Yorkers to


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SUMMER

ONLY N CAYMAN

A PERFECT BALANCE OF FOOD AND FUN.

Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park, Grand Cayman

This summer consider the Cayman Islands the Kid’s Culinary Capital of the Caribbean as the islands welcome your family to explore and feast. We’ve created menus and cooking classes that are kid-friendly. Enjoy fun activities such as interacting with playful stingrays or exploring vibrant reefs in an actual submarine. This summer discover a vacation destination that lets everyone explore and have fun at their own pace.

STAY THREE NIGHTS AND GET THE 4TH NIGHT FREE

onlyincayman.com

Only valid at participating properties on new bookings made by June 30 for travel June 1 - Sep 7, 2018. Blackout dates may apply. See website for complete rules and restrictions.


NE X T ACT

Y CA

PITAL

CULIN

AR

C aribbean

F ROM L E F T KI R A TU RN BU L L; RAC HE L JOYC E

CULINARY EXPERIENCES APPROVED BY KIDS OF ALL AGES

studio operated by the South Street Seaport Museum, an area fixture since 1967. Clinton Hall (clintonhallny. com), a laid-back beer garden with a location nearby in the Financial District, arrived last year, giving the after-hours scene a jolt. The neighborhood’s first boutique lodging, the 66-room Mr. C Seaport (mrcseaport.com; doubles from $500), opens this April, in a handsome Federal style brick building that for years languished as an unremarkable outpost of a chain hotel. Now it bears a European feel, reflecting the sensibilities of designer Thomas Juul-Hansen (best known for his interiors at restaurants like Nougatine and Perry Street) and the Italian owners (brothers from the Cipriani hospitality family). Rooms appear luxurious yet subdued, with gray velveteen accent walls, lacqueredteak trim, and marble-clad bathrooms. Upon arrival, guests will be escorted to the jewel-box lounge for a cappuccino or cocktail while they check in; upstairs, negronis await in the mini-bars. It’s just a block from the waterfront, so no matter which room you book, you’re guaranteed a picturesque view: the Brooklyn Bridge from the upper floors or the cobblestones of Peck Slip from the lower. Razing the old shopping mall at Pier 17 will make room for a glassy structure that will open later this year with a rooftop event space and new ventures by restaurateurs David Chang and Jean-Georges

Bon Vivant Cooking Classes Interactive culinary class for kids, featuring local ingredients and recipes geared towards healthier options.

From top: Northern Grade, a shop stocked with made-in-the-U.S.A. clothing and housewares; chicken sandwiches and fries at the Fulton Street outpost of brewpub Clinton Hall.

Vongerichten. A branch of indie bookstore McNally Jackson (mcnallyjackson.com), a SoHo fixture beloved by the fashionable set, will move in nearby, as will the cultfavorite Milanese concept store 10 Corso Como (10corsocomo.com). This flurry of development points to a broader renaissance that’s swept Lower Manhattan in the years since 9/11. Once quiet after Wall Street’s closing bell rang, the area draws locals and tourists in equal measure, whether they’re seeking designer clothing at the Oculus or epicurean treats from Eataly. Now, at last, the revival feels fully realized, and Seaport, a sliver of waterfront nearly as old as the city itself, is gleaming anew.

The Brasserie Culinary Tours Get creative in the kitchen with freshlycaught fish and organic fruits, vegetables and herbs straight from their garden.

Ambassadors in the Kitchen at The Ritz-Carlton An epicurean adventure for budding chefs, creating local delicacies from ingredients they pick themselves.

kidsculinarycapital.com


CHECKING IN

Belize, Three Ways

At Naia Resort & Spa, treatments like salt stone massages and coconut scrubs are delivered in five overwater suites on a secluded lagoon.

B E LI ZE HA S long been big with adventure travelers, who come to dive the world’s second-longest barrier-reef system, hike through Mayan ruins, and see wildlife in the jungles of the interior. The only catch: upscale hotels were always in short supply. That’s changing. Last December, I visited three sophisticated new properties—Coral Caye, Naia Resort & Spa, and Mahogany Bay—that offer wellness experiences, chic suites, and premium privacy. More are coming within

52

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the year, including the Samuel Amoia–designed Itz’ana Resort & Residences in the bohemian beach village of Placencia and Leonardo DiCaprio’s eco-friendly privateisland resort, Blackadore Caye. Despite all the development, Belize still feels earthy and untouched. The beaches on its more than 200 cays are uncrowded, and the people, whose heritages include mestizo, Mayan, Creole, and Garifuna, are warm. Choose among the new hotels for the Belize experience that best suits you.

A L EX A N D R A AV IL A

The Central American country has always offered plenty of activities, and now, Erin Riley discovers, there are even more luxe resorts to match its pristine beaches and rain forest.


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CHECKING IN

Private island with its conch-shell-lined walls and sand floors, is an ideal refuge from the sun. My butler, Rudy, delivered strong mojitos (and stories about the Coppolas) at the bar, while on the adjacent thatched-roof dining patio, my personal chef, Edwin, served grilled seafood plates. At night, I retreated to Coral Cottage, one of the two rusticluxe bungalows where guests sleep. What it lacked in airconditioning, it made up for in beautiful breeze. Whether I was snorkeling or just lounging on one of the island’s many hammocks, I found that Coral Caye maximized the simple pleasures of being by the sea.

Tropical village Set on Belize’s largest island, Ambergris Cay, this sprawling, 60-acre property feels like a world unto itself. Part resort, part small town, Mahogany Bay Resort & Beach Club (curiocollection3.hilton.com; doubles from $369) has 205 cottages and villas dotted along streets separated by canals. In the town center, you’ll find a yoga studio, an artisanal chocolate shop, and a coffee and rum bar. The Great House, with its grand lobby, old-world bar, and two restaurants, feels like a scene-y country club. The accommodations range from small studios to sprawling twobedroom cottages, but all have 14-foot ceilings, island-style décor, and rich Belizean woods. When I wanted to experience a little nightlife, the beach bars and lively restaurants of

54

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Holistic retreat Unlike other hotels in Placencia, Naia Resort & Spa (naiaresort andspa.com; doubles from $295) emphasizes wellness. After settling into my room, I made my way through mangroves and across bridges to reach the spa, a six-acre complex with a yoga studio, a café, and five treatment rooms set over a lily-covered lagoon. Treatments incorporate native ingredients, like the golden-clay detox and the Mayan cacao-and-spice wrap. The soothing atmosphere extends to Naia’s 35 beach houses and villas, many of which come with ocean views. All have warm wood paneling and oversize rattan furniture. At 1981, the on-site restaurant, I tried local dishes like conch carpaccio and seafood-topped dukunu, a Mayan tamale. Each combined healthfulness and flavor in a way that left me eager to return for my next meal.

San Pedro were just a 10-minute golf-cart drive away—though I was always grateful to come home to the peace and quiet of the resort. A short boat trip got me to other activities. I took a tour of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve, famous for its stingrays and nurse sharks. Mahogany’s private beach club also has lovely overwater cabanas, perfect for whiling away an afternoon (or two).

F ROM TOP : C O URTESY OF C O PP OL A HI D E AWAYS ; A L EX A N D R A AV IL A ; C OU RT ESY OF M A HO GA NY BAY R ES O RT & B E ACH CLU B

After falling in love with Belize in the 1980s, Francis Ford Coppola opened the Blancaneaux Lodge in the jungles of the Cayo District and the Turtle Inn along the shores near Placencia. The latest addition to his portfolio, Coral Caye (thefamilycoppola hideaways.com; cottages from $1,435), sits on a two-acre, palm-crowned atoll just 25 minutes by boat from Turtle Inn. It’s perfect for a couple or small family because you can take over the whole place. Until recently, Coppola kept Coral Caye for his own use, and it’s easy to see why. The communal main house,


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7Â&#x2026;>Ă&#x152;Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x192;8Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2C6;`Ă&#x20AC;>Âś Xiidra is a prescription eye drop solution used to treat the signs and symptoms of dry eye disease. It is not known if Xiidra is safe and effective in children under 17 years of age.

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iÂ&#x2DC;iĂ&#x20AC;>Â?Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;vÂ&#x153;Ă&#x20AC;Â&#x201C;>Ă&#x152;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x153;Â&#x2DC;>LÂ&#x153;Ă&#x2022;Ă&#x152;Ă&#x152;Â&#x2026;iĂ&#x192;>vi>Â&#x2DC;`ivviVĂ&#x152;Â&#x2C6;Ă&#x203A;iĂ&#x2022;Ă&#x192;iÂ&#x153;v8Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2C6;`Ă&#x20AC;>° The risk information provided here is not comprehensive. To learn more, talk about Xiidra with your health care provider or pharmacist. The FDA-approved product labeling can be found at http://www.shirecontent.com/PI/PDFs/Xiidra_ USA_ENG.pdf or 1-800-828-2088. Do not use Xiidra for a condition for which it was not prescribed. Do not give Xiidra to other people, even if they have the same symptoms you have. It may harm them. 7Â&#x2026;>Ă&#x152;>Ă&#x20AC;iĂ&#x152;Â&#x2026;iÂ&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;}Ă&#x20AC;i`Â&#x2C6;iÂ&#x2DC;Ă&#x152;Ă&#x192;Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2DC;8Â&#x2C6;Â&#x2C6;`Ă&#x20AC;>Âś Active ingredient: lifitegrast Inactive ingredients: sodium chloride, sodium phosphate dibasic anhydrous, sodium thiosulfate pentahydrate, sodium hydroxide and/or hydrochloric acid (to adjust pH) and water for injection. Manufactured for: Shire US Inc., 300 Shire Way, Lexington, MA 02421 For more information, go to www.Xiidra.com or call 1-800-828-2088. Š2017 Shire US Inc. All rights reserved. SHIRE and the Shire Logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Shire Pharmaceutical Holdings Ireland Limited or its afiliates. Marks designated ÂŽ and â&#x201E;˘ are owned by Shire or an afiliated company Patented: please see https://www.shire.com/legalnotice/product-patents Last Modiied: 12/2017 S34025







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APRIL 2018

E V E R Y T H I N G Y O U N E E D T O K N O W T O T R AV E L S M A R T E R

T R AV E L U P D AT E

Most of Turkey, including Istanbul, is classified as a Tier 3 destination in the State Department’s new system. For how to decode, see the next page.

Safety in Numbers

MI C H A E L T UR E K / GA LL E RY STO C K

A major revamp of the U.S. State Department’s cautionary system introduces simplified terminology and a numerical rating scale, taking the guesswork out of interpreting the office’s travel advice. Here’s how to navigate the changes. By Sarah Bruning

Should you stay or should you go now? Even some members of the State Department couldn’t answer that question under the federal government’s old advisory system. A yearlong analysis by the department’s Bureau of Consular Affairs revealed that the previous designations (warnings and alerts) often left travelers confused, so in January, the department overhauled its recommendation system for the first time in a decade. Officials started by clarifying the language used to distinguish between the baseline safety level of a country or region and any short-term risk in the area. “We’ve moved to a Travel Advisory for every country and Antarctica,” explains Michelle Bernier-Toth, acting deputy assistant secretary for Overseas Citizens Services. Advisory pages, found on the department’s travel hub (travel.state.gov), provide a general overview of the on-the-ground situation in each country, plus contact information for any local U.S. embassies.

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W H O ’ S G O T W H AT

What changed? The State Department now assigns every country a number based on the following colorcoded four-tier scale:

AIRLINE Southwest SEATBACK SCREENS? No. YOUR OPTIONS

Tier 1 (blue) Exercise normal precautions while in the area.

On-demand live TV (free) or videos using your own device ($5) USE Airtime Player app (free).

K N OW B E FO R E YO U G O

AIRLINE United SEATBACK SCREENS?

Tier 2 (yellow) Travel with increased caution.

Adjusting Your Screens

Tier 3 (orange) Reconsider travel to the destination.

Don’t count on a seatback screen to while away the time on your next domestic flight. Why they’re disappearing, and how you’ll need to change your trip preparations. By Talia Avakian

Tier 4 (red) The State Department strongly advises not traveling there at all.

nce considered must-haves, individual built-in video consoles are now seen as unnecessary by an increasing number of U.S. carriers, many of whom are eager to shed weight from their planes and costs from their bottom lines. The monitors require seats to be bulkier, and upgrading systems can cost around $10,000 per seat. With a majority of travelers toting their own devices anyway, it’s tough for companies to justify the ongoing investment. “Our research has shown that our guests and most frequent fliers prefer to use their own high-quality devices to stay entertained, as opposed to seatback screens that often become dated quickly,” says Ann Johnson, a spokesperson for Alaska Airlines. So while the programming itself continues to

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AIRLINE American SEATBACK SCREENS?

Depends on the plane. YOUR OPTIONS Streaming video and live TV on some flights ($10 for flights under two hours, $18 for domestic flights five to six hours long). USE American Airlines’ app (free). AIRLINE Delta SEATBACK SCREENS?

Depends on the plane. YOUR OPTIONS Streaming video and live TV ($16 advance purchase for 24 hours in North America, or $8 an hour on most flights). USE Gogo Entertainment app (free).

P R E F L I G H T E N T E R TA I N M E N T C H E C K L I S T

RESEARCH YOUR VIEWING OPTIONS

Check the airline’s website, which often notes the in-flight options on specific routes. If those details are absent, note the aircraft model and search for a rundown on seatguru.com or use your flight number for a list of amenities at routehappy.com.

GET THE RIGHT TOOL

Some airlines, like United, American, and Hawaiian, are replacing screens with entertainment apps. Others (Delta, Alaska) use Gogo Entertainment—not to be confused with Gogo Wi-Fi, for in-flight Internet. Visit the App Store or Google Play before you leave home to download Gogo or your carrier’s app.

SOURCE BACKUP CONTENT BEFORE FLYING

In case of unforeseen circumstances (last-minute aircraft changes, glitchy systems), preload your device with movies or TV shows purchased or rented from services like Netflix ($8 per month), Amazon Prime ($13 per month), or YouTube Red ($10 per month).

AIRLINE JetBlue SEATBACK SCREENS?

Yes, on all planes. YOUR OPTIONS DirecTV (free) and streaming Amazon Prime video. USE Their screens or your device’s web browser (free). AIRLINE Alaska SEATBACK SCREENS? No. YOUR OPTIONS Streaming

video coming to Boeing 737s in spring 2018, remainder of fleet by early 2020 (prices TBA). USE Gogo Entertainment app (free).

I LLU ST RAT I ON BY A D R IA N JO HN S O N

If the risk for a city or region differs from the nation as a whole, the advisory page will note that, and include details about the specific risk. Mexico, for instance, falls into Tier 2 as a country, but five Mexican states with high crime levels are in Tier 4. To add context, the pages also incorporate icons that indicate the specific risk (such as crime, terrorism, a health hazard, or a natural disaster) driving the rating, followed by a brief explanation of the situation. The department will reevaluate ratings annually for Tiers 1 and 2 and every six months for Tiers 3 and 4, unless an imminent concern arises. “How we assess the threat level in a country hasn’t changed,” Bernier-Toth says. “It’s how we describe those conditions.” The State Department will continue to post any temporary conditions and emergency situations, such as demonstrations or hazardous weather events, on its site.

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be a priority, providing a personal monitor at every seat is not. This October, Alaska will begin removing screens from the Airbus fleet it inherited in the merger with Virgin America. Next year, American Airlines will also remove the screens from some of its existing domestic narrowbody planes. Taking a more gradual approach, Hawaiian and United Airlines plan on nixing the screens from new orders for some domestic routes while keeping the systems on some older planes. Though not all airlines plan on phasing out seatback screens— JetBlue and Delta remain committed—the trend is widespread enough to warrant due diligence before heading to the airport. Find details on the carriers’ plans at right, and use the checklist below to make sure you're ready.

Depends on the plane. YOUR OPTIONS DirecTV or videos using your own device ($5 advance purchase, $6 for economy flights under two hours, $8 for economy flights over two hours). USE United Airlines’ app (free).


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UPGR ADE

PAC K I N G T I P S

Feel at Home Anywhere Modern travel doesn’t always lend itself to hygge, the in-vogue Danish lifestyle concept generally defined as “coziness and comfortable conviviality.” But Kimpton Hotels’ New York properties bring the Scandinavian ethos to guests with a just-launched service (starting at $299 per night) that adds aromatherapy and other curated amenities to boost standard rooms’ hygge quotient. Esha Singhal, who helps manage the program, shares four simple pleasures you can tote along to cultivate a sense of peace wherever you are. By Siobhan Reid Shop our picks at tandl.me/hygge-products.

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CALMING SCENTS

SOFT LIGHTING

MELLOW EXERCISE

A TOASTY BEVERAGE

Lavender and lemongrass "go a long way," says Singhal. Compact aromatherapy diffusers, such as the Pilgrim Teo ($80; pilgrimcollection. com), help create a personalized setup. When scouting essential oils, look for companies that source unsprayed or (ideally) certifiedorganic ingredients, or that maintain membership in the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy, to ensure high quality.

An unpleasant glare can squash a good mood surprisingly quickly. “Hygge-friendly lighting is warm and subdued—the opposite of the harsh fluorescent type you might encounter,” Singhal says. Since some hotels ban open flames, skip candles in favor of a multifunctional LED lamp such as the Classic Lumio ($200; hellolumio. com), which folds up to look like a hardcover book.

Sure, sitting around a roaring fire, mulled wine in hand, qualifies as hygge. But holistic pursuits (yoga, meditation) “are a great, healthy way to achieve a state of calm,” Singhal says. The Headspace and Buddhify apps (free; Android, iOS) offer guided mindfulness practices, and Lululemon’s ultrathin Reversible (Un) Mat ($48; lululemon.com) occupies minimal space in your carry-on.

“Hygge is about taking pleasure in ordinary moments,” Singhal says. For instant comfort, she recommends brewing herbal tea, preferably with ingredients that soothe common travel ailments. Pack chamomile if sleep tends to be elusive away from home, or peppermint from Harney & Sons ($6 per tin; harney.com) if you fall prey to an upset stomach on the road.

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BURNING Q U EST I O N

What’s legal to film on your cell phone at the airport and on planes? Whether you’re catching a runway worker doing the electric slide or witnessing a fellow passenger fume at desk agents, pause before hitting record. Filming surprising public moments isn’t necessarily prohibited by federal law, but that doesn’t mean you won’t land in hot water, since you’re almost certainly filming someone else. Booking a ticket means you’re agreeing to follow an airline’s terms of service. Some carriers, like United and Southwest, openly publish their photography policies and allow passengers to capture “personal events,” such as your own marriage proposal. Others won’t discuss their exact rules, citing security reasons. The general guideline? Get consent from whomever you’re capturing on video. Another rule: anything that isn’t in public view and could compromise an airport or flight’s security (think: X-ray monitors, some safety operations) is probably off-limits. So if you’re shooting an Instagram story of yourself as you snake your way up the TSA Precheck line and not impeding any procedures, film on. But if you want to post a YouTube vlog showing a dustup between your seatmate and a flight attendant and one of them hasn’t okayed it, there could be consequences, such as getting booted from the flight before takeoff or detained by security upon landing. — John Scarpinato

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A Premier onebedroom suite at the Kimpton Eventi. Tucking a soft throw blanket in your suitcase can make your hotel couch feel homier.


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UPGR ADE

S EC U R I T Y BRIEFING

Fighting Fraud Abroad With data breaches regularly making headlines, experts share five ways to keep your money and your identity safer overseas. By Sarah Bruning

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ACCESS WI-FI WISELY

“Using public networks in an airport, café, or hotel can be dangerous from a cybersecurity standpoint, because they can be easily hacked,” says Eva Velasquez, president and CEO of Identity Theft Resource Center, who advises installing a virtual private network (VPN) on your mobile device. “It acts like a private tunnel onto the Internet and can help keep hackers from monitoring your activity.” A solid pick: NordVPN ($69 annually; Android, iOS), which you log in to and activate before hopping on Wi-Fi. 2

That little slip of paper might seem innocent enough, but you’d be surprised how many specifics someone can glean from one. “Housed within bar codes—easily readable with a mobile app or free website—is the traveler’s frequent-flier number,” says Paige Schaffer, who runs the identity- and digital-protection services global unit of Generali Global Assistance. “A shrewd person can use clues from the traveler’s social media profiles to answer security questions, access their account, and cash out affinity points,” she explains. “Or even obtain passport numbers, mailing and e-mail addresses, and credit card details.” Hang on to it and destroy it when you get home.

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PARE DOWN WHENEVER POSSIBLE

Before heading out for a day of exploring, review the cards and identifying documents in your wallet and store any nonessentials in your room’s safe. Velasquez also advocates writing down a list of items you’re carrying on a trip, plus the contact numbers for the issuers, and keeping it in the safe as an easy reference if problems arise or you need to report anything stolen. 4

INSPECT ATMS CAREFULLY

Ideally you’d always withdraw money from a machine attached to an actual bank, since those tend to be well-lit

and under 24/7 surveillance. Still, you can safeguard yourself whenever and wherever you need cash. Scammers can install surreptitious skimming devices that capture your info when you insert your card—and they have become increasingly hard to spot. “Look for structures on or around the card reader,” Schaffer says. If you see anything suspicious, Schaffer recommends giving it “a little shake to make sure it’s fixed to the machine and not an add-on.” Another precaution: shield the keypad when you’re typing your PIN to combat inconspicuous video recorders hidden by criminals looking to score your card number and access code.

CONVERT CURRENCY STRATEGICALLY

Several options exist, depending on your travel MO and your aversion to risk. “Often you can order currency from your bank by phone or online and pick it up at your local branch,” Schaffer says. The convenience will typically cost a bit extra, but the premium may be worth considering if you’re concerned about security at your destination or just prefer the convenience of having cash on hand immediately upon arrival. Alternatively, at most international airports, you can find a bank-affiliated ATM inside the terminal that will usually be safe and offer the best value since withdrawals are based on wholesale rates.

I LLU ST RAT I ON BY B E N SA N D E R S

KEEP YOUR BOARDING PASS SECURE


An emerald glass frog, a species indigenous to the Andes, spotted on a night hike at Mashpi Lodge, in Ecuador.

APRIL 2018

T H E WILD WON DER S OF

ECUADOR p. 66

T +Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GLOBA L GUIDE TO

SHOPPING p. 74

T H E COOLEST CIT Y IN

GERMANY p. 82

A FA MILY T R IP TO

M O N TA N A P E T E R BOH L E R

p. 90

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THE

VIEW FROM

HERE Far from just a stopping-off point on the way to the Galápagos, mainland Ecuador is a place of mystery and wonder—whether you’re seeing it from the heart of Quito or the cloud forests of the Andes. By David Amsden P H OTO G R A P H S BY P E T E R B O H L E R


A guest room at Mashpi Lodge, an eco-resort in the cloud forest of northern Ecuador. Opposite: Looking down on the forest canopy from Mashpiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Dragonfly cable car.

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T

T HERE WAS A MOMENT, ON MY FIRST DAY IN QUITO, WHEN I LOST

the ability to breathe. At 9,350 feet above sea level, the Ecuadorian capital is the world’s highest—an improbable city where walking up a flight of stairs can put an ill-adapted pair of lungs in a vise grip. But I was higher even than that. After being driven through the blue-black of early morning to a grassy airfield on the outskirts of town, I was in the cockpit of a helicopter, rising to a hover just minutes after the sun had broken the horizon, so overwhelmed by my first glimpse of the landscape that I began involuntarily gasping as the pilot maneuvered into a 360-degree turn. Expanding from the pastel sprawl of this city of 2.6 million was a primordial panorama that brought to mind computer simulations of the big bang. Worlds that were not supposed to coexist, at least in my understanding of the natural order, spread before me in implausible harmony. The jagged, snowcapped peaks of the Andes blurred into lush, tropical basins that glowed an almost neon green. Goats and cattle grazed on cascading hills of farmland that morphed into inhospitable lunar expanses. There were glaciers and waterfalls, rocky gorges and velvety highlands, tundras and rain forests, all crowned by pink-tinged clouds that skimmed the earth like stretched cotton. And then there were the volcanoes. The hour-long flight, a new excursion by Metropolitan Touring, Ecuador’s oldest travel outfit, followed part of the Avenue of Volcanoes—the majestic string of summits south of Quito named in the 19th century by

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the German explorer Alexander von Humboldt. They seemed to be everywhere, these mysterious formations that rose from valleys of green and gold to poke through the clouds like breaching whales. The pilot pointed out the craggy silhouette of the long-dormant Chimborazo, Ecuador’s tallest mountain at 20,458 feet. Natives speak of it with particular reverence, and for good reason: because of its location on the equatorial bulge, Chimborazo’s peak is the farthest terrestrial point from the earth’s core (as well as the closest one to the moon). The pilot banked into a sharp, swooping turn, and suddenly we were following a river toward Cotopaxi, a solitary marvel just shy of 20,000 feet that is one of the world’s tallest active volcanoes. We rose along Cotopaxi’s iceshrouded face to hover just above the perfectly conical summit. Looking into the crater, I felt a visceral sensation that remained with me throughout my weeklong stay in Quito. There I was, still technically within the boundaries of a major city, yet consumed by the unnerving impression that I was looking directly into the soul of the planet.


Above, from left: Cotopaxi, one of the world’s tallest active volcanoes, as seen from a helicopter; a Quechuan mother and child in Quito’s Centro Histórico. Opposite: Traditional Ecuadorian papiermâché masks for sale in Quito.

or some, Ecuador is less a country than it is an idea about the world before countries—or even before mankind. It is best known for what lies some 600 miles off its rugged Pacific coastline: the Galápagos Islands, the storied archipelago containing one of the planet’s highest concentrations of endemic species. Many travelers see Quito as little more than a way station on a trip to go see giant turtles and pink iguanas. While neighboring capitals like Lima and Bogotá have become increasingly popular, Quito has remained something of a question mark. From my helicopter tour through my days wandering the city streets—and during an excursion to a place in the cloud forest that is, somehow,

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still a part of greater Quito—I found a metropolis whose intimacy belies its vastness. It is both humble and feral, a city that accepts nature’s powers rather than trying to overcome them. There are few destinations that still deliver the intoxicating jolt of true discovery, but it is one. I stayed in the Centro Histórico, a hilly, staggeringly beautiful labyrinth that 40 years ago was designated unesco’s first World Heritage city. My hotel, Casa Gangotena, was an immaculately preserved Neoclassical mansion typical of the area. Overlooking the Plaza San Francisco, one of the city’s main squares, it had floors of Egyptian marble, a flower-filled atrium, and opulent, high-ceilinged guest rooms. After checking in, I roamed the delightfully cacophonous urban center. Motorbikes slalomed through the catacomb-like streets, dodging stray dogs, diesel buses, and rusted-out trucks filled with freshly slaughtered chickens. On every corner someone was selling something: fresh fruit, vegetables, quail eggs, ice cream, braised pork, spit-roasted guinea pigs, chocolate, and more varieties of corn and grain than I knew existed. Even by Latin American standards, the density of churches was astounding; around every bend there seemed to be another weathered Gothic façade, Baroque spire, or intricately tiled dome. During a flash thunderstorm—Quito’s weather changes dramatically by the hour—I unknowingly took refuge inside the most famous church in the city, La Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, colloquially known as La Compañía. It’s an apt metaphor


The Quito skyline, with the neo-Gothic BasĂ­lica del Voto Nacional on the horizon, from the terrace of the hotel Casa Gangotena.


for a city that requires a bit of patience to appreciate: the modest exterior opens into a vaulted room painted entirely in dazzling gold leaf. Hungry, I ventured toward San Roque, one of the oldest sections of the Centro Histórico. It is home to the Mercado San Francisco, a no-frills, fluorescent-lit bazaar that has been in operation since 1897. Here, indigenous women in embroidered skirts and men sporting handmade cowboy hats squeezed between fruit stands overflowing with mangoes, passion fruit, and custard apples. Butchers hawked cow’s feet and miscellaneous innards. I made my way to the food court in the rear, possibly the best spot in town for sampling Ecuador’s traditional cooking. One stand specialized in stuffed potato patties called llapingachos. Another served encebollado, an oniony fish soup that is a popular hangover cure. But what about that goat stew simmering in a cauldron over here, or that platter of chicken and plantains over there? Since almost everything was less than three dollars (Ecuador has used the American dollar since 2000, following a banking crisis that destroyed the value of its former currency, the sucre), I decided to try everything, washing it all down with a juice made from tamarillo, a tart Andean fruit better known as tomate de árbol, or “tomato of the tree.” Returning to Casa Gangotena just before dusk, I was grateful for the respite from the fray: a horizontal recharge on luscious bedding, an exquisite cocktail made from chamomile-infused gin and fermented sugarcane juice, which I sipped in the cozy wood-paneled bar. After taking in the sunset from the hotel’s rooftop terrace, I ventured out of Quito’s historic core for dinner. Navigating the city beyond the Centro Histórico can be a small adventure. Though Quito has become safer, walking at night is still frowned upon, so the streets take on a slightly desolate cast after dark. Taxis are really the only way to get around—at least until next year, when a 15-station metro system is set to open. The taxi system, however, could charitably be described as quirky: licensed yellow cabs are indiscernible from their fake counterparts, which often charge double. Thankfully, the city is so affordable that getting hoodwinked,

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as I did, means parting with only a few extra dollars. From the window of my gypsy cab, the Centro Histórico’s Spanish-colonial decadence gave way to what locals call “the modern city”: a dense grid of concrete towers and wider avenues illuminated by the dim yellow glow of the street lamps. My destination was Laboratorio, a restaurant on a residential block at the edge of La Floresta, the city’s bohemian neighborhood. A loftlike room with poured-concrete floors and polished-wood benches, Laboratorio is, as the name suggests, a kind of experiment. Rather than offering a set menu or even a consistent culinary experience, it hosts chefs

from Ecuador and beyond to showcase their talents in pop-up restaurants that stay open a few months at a time. Laboratorio is the brainchild of Camilo Kohn, an easygoing young Ecuadorian with a fierce entrepreneurial streak. “The food scene here was a bit stagnant,” he told me, explaining how he came to open the place three years ago after attending culinary school in the United States. “The fanciest restaurants were basically the same food you could get on the street, but served on a white tablecloth for ten times the price.” Kohn was the chef for Laboratorio’s first pop-up, Banh Mi, which introduced Quiteños to the joys of the Vietnamese sandwich. It was such a success that Kohn turned it into a stand-alone restaurant nearby. When I visited Laboratorio, Rodolfo Reynoso, a chef from Veracruz, Mexico, was helming the latest pop-up, MX.593, which served a menu featuring Mexican classics (pork adobo tacos) with nods to Ecuadorian cuisine (a gordita filled with llama meat). The margaritas came in beakers. Everything was as delicious as you’d find in any trendy spot in a major global city. “We’re trying to reclaim our heritage in a new way,” Kohn told me. “Things that are common in other places, like using high-end ingredients in casual settings, are still kind of foreign here. It’s exciting to be able to push those trends and introduce new ideas.” (Continued on page 96)

HOW TO VISIT ECUADOR, FROM QUITO TO THE CLOUD FOREST Give yourself about a week, divided evenly between the city and the wilderness, which can be easily combined with a second week in the Galápagos Islands. Most restaurants and other businesses in Quito are closed on Sundays (and some on Mondays), so plan accordingly.

COLOMBIA

Mashpi Lodge Galápagos Islands

Pacific Ocean

Quito

ECUADOR

PERU

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GETTING THERE American and Delta have direct flights from Miami and Atlanta to Mariscal Sucre International Airport, which opened in 2013 just outside of Quito. OPERATOR & LODGING Metropolitan Touring (metropolitan-touring.com), Ecuador’s oldest travel outfit, put together my fantastic itinerary, which included its latest offering, a helicopter flight along Ecuador’s renowned Avenue of the Volcanoes. The company also owns both hotels where I stayed: Casa Gangotena (casa

gangotena.com; doubles from $450), a converted Neoclassical mansion in Quito’s historic center, and Mashpi Lodge (mashpilodge. com; doubles from $1,098), a bastion of Modernist luxury in the cloud forest a few hours away. Mashpi can arrange transfers to and from central Quito. EAT & DRINK Banh Mi The city’s premier destination for Southeast Asian fare and well-made cocktails. banhmi.ec; entrées $9–$16. Bandido Brewing A hipster hangout in the La Tola precinct of the Centro Histórico serving craft

beer, artisanal pizza, and draft kombucha. bandidobrewing.com. Dios No Muere A sprawling café spread across three stories of a former monastery where you can find both Ecuadorian dishes and Cajun classics. cafediosnomuere. com; entrées $5–$10. Laboratorio At this chic spot in La Floresta, different chefs showcase their talents in residencies that last several months. laboratorio.rest; entrées $12–$14. Mercado San Francisco Quito’s oldest market is the best place to sample traditional Ecuadorian cuisine. Corner of Rocafuerte and Chimborazo.—D.A.


The Healing Waterfall, the end point of a popular hike from Mashpi Lodge, in the foothills of the Ecuadorian Andes. Opposite: Encebollado, or fish soup, at the Mercado San Francisco in Quitoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Centro HistĂłrico.


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BUENOS AIRES JEWELRY / Aracano

Illustrations by Michał Bednarski

TOKYO KNIVES AND SCISSORS / Ubukeya

MEXICO CITY TEXTILES / Onora

NEW YORK CITY HOME DESIGN / Creel & Gow

BUENOS AIRES L E AT H E R G O O D S / A r a n d u

NEW YORK CITY FOOD / Clover Grocery

LONDON H A B E R D A S H E RY / D r a k e ’s

NEW YORK CITY C H I L D R E N ' S C LOT H I N G / Tr i c o F i e l d

Follow A-list style-setters on retail expeditions across London, New York City, and Buenos Aires. Browse handcrafted surf boards on the Maine coast and streamlined sneakers in Paris. Navigate Mexico City’s high-design neighborhoods and Dubai’s largest mall. T+L's annual guide to the most beguiling stores around the globe will lead you to brick-and-mortar bliss.

LONDON ART SUPPLIES / L.Cornelissen & Son

BUENOS AIRES ANTIQUES / Ricardo Paz

LONDON BOOKS / Heywood Hill

DUBAI FOOTWEAR / Level Shoes


I N S I D E R’S G U I D E

LAURE HERIARD DUBREUIL’S

NEW YORK CITY

Leave it to Laure Heriard Dubreuil to get New Yorkers to wear color. The doyenne of high fashion launched the luxury emporium the Webster in Miami in 2009, stocking playful yet refined pieces from high-end labels like Balenciaga and Chloé. Last year Heriard Dubreuil brought South Beach glamour to New York City with the opening of the store’s fifth outpost. Here, the French-born entrepreneur shares her secrets for scoring the best home décor, streetwear, and vintage finds across Manhattan and Brooklyn. SoHo/West Village/East Village

It’s two blocks from the Webster to the Apartment by the Line (theline. com), one of my favorite boutiques. It’s well curated by my friend Vanessa Traina, and I can always count on leaving with a pair of Khaite jeans and an assortment of Rodin face oils. I have a four-year-old son, so Trico Field (tricofield.net), a children’s clothing store on West Broadway, is another go-to. It carries things you can’t find elsewhere: patchwork jeans, thickgauge sweaters, and T-shirts with

Left: Laure Heriard Dubreuil at the New York City branch of the Webster. Below, from left: Pointy Snout caviar at Clover Grocery, in Greenwich Village; avian-themed décor at Creel & Gow, on the Upper East Side; children’s clothing at Trico Field, in SoHo.

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W O R T H F LY I N G F O R :

RETRO SNEAKERS IN PARIS

Imagine the classic Converse Jack Purcell tennis shoe designed by French people—less bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, more sleek and subdued. Conceived in 1936 by Georges Grimmeisen, the tennis-loving son of a Parisian rubber manufacturer, the Spring Court canvas sneaker became a chic totem in the 1960s, when John Lennon wore a pair on the cover of Abbey Road. Today it comes in both high- and low-top versions and in a range of muted colors and fabrics, including twill, Lurex, and goatskin, beginning at around $100. Spring Courts are difficult to find in U.S. stores, and there are fans who never visit Paris without a trip to the company’s boutique, housed in the Grimmeisens’ original rubber factory in the Belleville neighborhood. springcourt.com.

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surprising details like a funky trim or paint splotches. I like to break up a day of shopping with a stop for juice or a salad at Clover Grocery (clovergrocery. com), an upscale sister market to Café Clover in the West Village. It feels like something you’d find in Los Angeles—it sells truffled honey and spiced popcorn. If I’m in the East Village, I’ll stop at John Derian Co. (johnderian.com) for antiques, ceramics, candles, and other beautiful gifts, then Metropolis (metropolisvintageonline.com) for cool vintage T-shirts and sweatshirts.

C O U RTESY OF S PR I N G C OU RT. OP P OS IT E : J ESS I CA A N TO L A

Flatiron/Murray Hill Marlene Wetherell (marlenewetherell.

com) on West 25th Street is another of my favorite vintage stores. You have to dig, but I always turn up treasures like an Yves Saint Laurent blazer or a Gucci handbag. Dover Street Market New York (newyork.doverstreetmarket. com) on Lexington Avenue at East 30th Street feels like a fashion funhouse. It has ever-changing art installations and an amazing collection of jewelry. I never leave without having a slice of lemon-polenta cake at Rose Bakery on the ground floor.

Upper East Side

After that little pick-me-up, I’m ready to head uptown to the Row (therow. com) on East 71st Street. The highend clothing boutique is set inside a glorious, three-story town house and has the most incredible rotating art collection. In addition to elegant, impeccably cut pieces, it has a small but strong vintage selection. From there, I like to pop in to Creel & Gow (creelandgow.com), a curiosity shop between Park and Lexington Avenues. My friend Jamie Creel is a world traveler and avid collector, and I’ve been fortunate to accompany him on shopping trips to Mozambique, Spain, and Egypt. I’m in awe of the one-of-a-kind objects he turns up, from ceramics and taxidermy to tiles and precious stones. Williamsburg

On the weekend, my family and I like to go to Supreme Brooklyn (supremenewyork.com). It’s the justopened sibling to the cult skater store in Nolita. I browse the racks of elevated streetwear with my husband—we especially love the logo tees. And the store has its own skateboard bowl, which keeps my son entertained.

SPOTLIGHT: THE WEBSTER The six-story shop in SoHo blends New York glamour with South Beach pizzazz (pink terrazzo floors, a life-size bronze flamingo). But it’s the surprising mix of designer threads that captures the imagination. Yeezy sweatshirts are juxtaposed with Lisa Marie Fernandez sundresses and Isa Arfen cropped floral trousers, while the Art Deco– inspired shoe salon carries platform Vetements boots and Gucci pool slides. For the ultimate VIP treatment, opt for a blowout at the fifth-floor David Mallett salon. thewebster.us.

Mexico City was named this year’s World Design Capital, an award that pays tribute to the ways architects and urbanists have made the metropolis user-friendly. A shopping itinerary through the heart of the city—now largely recovered from last year's earthquake—reveals a vital community of fashion and product designers. 1/Stendhal Store This cuttingedge streetwear shop highlights up-and-coming Mexican labels. Look for utilitarian menswear by the Pack and cheeky T-shirts and totes by Regards Coupables. Polanco; stendhalstore.com. 2/Lago DF The shop has a rusticmodern aesthetic and features clothing and homeware designers from across Latin America. Polanco; lagodf.com. 3/Onora Owners Maggie Galton and Maria Eladia Hagerman work with Mexican artisans to create pillows from vintage fabrics, lacquered-wood cutlery, and more. Polanco; onoracasa.com. 4/Taxonomía This boutique inside the Hotel Carlota presents ceramics, jewelry, leather goods, and clothes by forward-thinking local designers. Cuauhtémoc; taxonomia.mx. 5/Utilitario Mexicano Classics of Mexican design—such as enameled pewter spoons for $5 and mortars and pestles made from volcanic stone for $12—line the walls of this inviting shop. Juárez; utilitariomexicano.com. 6/Córdoba 25 This early-20thcentury town house encompasses two clothing boutiques (one for men, another for women), a contemporary art gallery, and Casa Bosques Librería, the city’s best store for art books. Roma Norte; cordoba25.net. 7/Varón Designer Aaron Changpo’s showroom features his bold, geometric jewelry; pieces start at around $96. Condesa; varonofficial.com.


I N S I D E R’S G U I D E

The creator of niche fragrance line Fueguia 1833, Julian Bedel draws inspiration from the sights and scents of his home country of Argentina. His collection includes such heady perfumes as Pampa Húmeda, a blend of clary sage, eucalyptus, and oregano that evokes the wild green Pampas. Bedel’s business is based in Milan, but he was born and raised in Buenos Aires, where he now has a jewel box of a store. Here, he shares the artisans and shopkeepers— some based around his boutique in tony Recoleta, others in neighboring districts— who most excite him.

around the corner from my store. Designer Martín Churba makes all of his dresses, pants, and tops right at his shop, so everything is artisanal and small-scale. His colorful pieces in the style of Japanese yukata are incredible. I love the smell of leather when I walk into Arandu (arandu.com.ar), only a few blocks away. It has everything related to gaucho and polo culture, like saddles, bridles, carpincho leather vests made from the skin of the capybara, brightly colored woven belts once popular with the nobility, and buckles fashioned from silver coins. Marcelo Lucini of Airedelsur (airedelsurboutique.com) combines the traditional craftsmanship in silver and stone from northern Argentina with his own contemporary idea of jewelry and tableware. He’s one of the few people with real access to this

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SPOTLIGHT: FUEGUIA 1833 The Recoleta shop is lined with dark velvet drapes and vintage engravings. A single long table displays Bedel’s creations, including Halo Lunar—made of lavender, sandalwood, and amber—and Agua Magnoliana, which draws from the Amazonian magnolia tree. The brand also has branches in New York City, Milan, Zurich, and Tokyo. fueguia.com.

W O R T H F LY I N G F O R :

K IMONOS IN BERLIN

The city’s thrift-store scene is legendary, but if you don’t have the time for a treasure hunt, Rianna Nektaria Kounou and Nina Knaudt have done the work for you. For their clothing line, Rianna & Nina, the pair use rare, exotically patterned silk textiles sourced from around the world to create vintage-inspired coat and pant sets, kimonos, and tiered dresses; prices start around $980. The collection can be found at Rianna in Berlin, Kounou’s shop in the Mitte district, alongside vintage ready-to-wear, jewelry, and accessories. riannainberlin.com.

YAD I D L EV Y

Recoleta Tramando (tramando.com) is just


Clockwise from far left: Julian Bedel outside Fueguia 1833, his Buenos Aires perfume shop; arrow necklaces at Aracano, a jewelry boutique in Recoleta; Paul French Gallery, in Palermo Soho; rope lassos at Arandu, a store specializing in leather goods.

SHOPPING SPREE

An Afternoon at the Dubai Mall In a city with more than 90 shopping centers, one 5.9 million-square-foot complex rises above the rest. The Dubai Mall is the gateway to some of the region’s top attractions, including the Dubai Aquarium and the Burj Khalifa tower. Only in town for a layover? Here’s how to steer through the 1,200 shops to find the best of Emirati fashion. Studio 8 Dubai-born entrepreneur Sarah Belhasa’s sophisticated boutique features Gulf-based fashion houses, including Rubina K, known for elegant ready-to-wear pieces as well as trendy tunics and sundresses. studio8.ae.

F ROM TOP : JAV IE R PIE R INI (3 ); A NK A BA R D E LE B E N

network of artisans. He shows his work by appointment at his studio. At Aracano (aracano.com), on the other side of the Recoleta Cemetery, my longtime friend Federico Alzaga sells his sculptural, gold-and-silverplated jewelry out of his private showroom, also by appointment. His pendants are shaped like condors, arrowheads, and snakes. I appreciate his authenticity and his focus on a single idea—he takes inspiration from the Andes. Palermo Soho Paul French Gallery (pauldeco.com)

is the perfect place to pause while roaming the city. Paul brings together furniture, textiles, design objects, art, and wines from local and international producers. The shop has the spirit of a home, the soul of a gallery, and the heart of a bazaar. Nearby is Ricardo Paz (ricardopaz. com). Collected from all corners of Argentina, Paz’s antique pieces speak the universal language of simple design and materials. They have a rustic quality and showcase the varieties of wood in this country.

Boutique Ayla Drawing its name from the Arabic word for “moonlight,” this shop is known for its one-of-a-kind caftans and luxury evening wear handpicked by owner Shaden Bushnaq. Check out colorful dresses by U.A.E.–based label Shaira. boutiqueayla.com. Ajmal Perfume In the Emirates, entire families work with perfumers to develop fragrances from oud, a powerful scent originating in agarwood. At Ajmal, you can buy oud oil and design your own perfumes to wear or use as home fragrances. ajmalperfume.com. Level Shoes This is the place to buy high-end Arabian footwear by brands like Tamashee, whose designs are based on traditional na-aal sandals and patterned with leaves and date palms. levelshoes.com. Al Fardan Jewellery Pearl diving once flourished along the coast here. This outpost of a firm founded by a pearling family in 1954 showcases the gem as well as diamond pieces and watches. alfardanjewellery.com.

Port Rashid Dubai Airport

San Telmo Gabriel del Campo Anticuario

A look from Rianna & Nina’s Spring/ Summer 2018 collection.

(427 Bethlem; 54-11-4307-6589) has a vast collection of furniture, from Jean-Michel Frank pieces to reproductions of Roman marble statues. Del Campo is a sublime curator of the cambalache—the spirit of the bazaar—that constitutes our Porteño essence.

Dubai Mall Burj Khalifa

Dubai Creek


Clockwise from right: Erdem Moralioğlu at his London studio; a window display at Selfridge’s department store, in the Mayfair neighborhood; tableware at Momosan Shop, in Hackney; Heywood Hill, a bookstore in Mayfair.

I N S I D E R’S G U I D E

ERDEM MORALIOĞLU’S

Erdem Moralioğlu was born in Montreal to a Turkish father and an English mother. It’s no surprise, then, that his floral-print fashions— from the floor-length gowns beloved by Sienna Miller, Claire Foy, and other actresses, to last year’s capsule collection for H&M—pair the colorful abundance of a Victorian garden with Arabian Nights allure. The designer moved to London in 2000 to attend the Royal College of Art and launched his namesake label five years later. His favorite London shops reflect the same eclectic sensibility that informs his craft: a passion for art and literature and an embrace of both classic design and Midcentury Modernism. 80

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CA RO L SAC H S

LONDON


W O R T H F LY I N G F O R :

SUR FB OA R DS IN M A INE

The rocky New England shoreline isn’t your stereotypical surfing mecca. But according to many, the best boards in America can be found at a tiny shop in York, a block from the Atlantic Ocean. The town is best known for the picture-perfect Nubble Lighthouse, but since Mike LaVecchia founded Grain Surfboards in 2005, acolytes from as far away as Australia have made the pilgrimage. “People think of surfboards as disposable,” LaVecchia says. His boards are anything but. Crafted from sustainable cedar, they can outlast some foam counterparts by decades. At Grain, visitors can test-drive premade boards at the beach before making a selection; prices begin at $1,000. For a more hands-on experience, sign up for a four-day workshop and learn how to build your own board. grainsurfboards.com.

SHOP FOR ONE THING

A Tour of Tokyo’s Single-Item Stores Kaizen, the business philosophy of continuous improvement that has led Japan to excel at everything from steaks to jeans, is on display in Tokyo’s Chuo-ku ward, where a variety of hyper-focused shops specialize in one product—sometimes in a multitude of forms and always impeccably manufactured. 1/Itoya Over the 12 stories of its Ginza emporium, Itoya carries every type of paper imaginable. Entire floors are dedicated to greeting cards, diaries, postcards, and wrapping paper. ito-ya.co.jp/ginza.

Hackney Donlon Books (donlonbooks.com) is

very close to where I live, and has a unique selection of fascinating art and photography books. Conor Donlon, the owner, is always going to Japan and bringing back interesting first editions. I recently bought a kimono catalogue from the 1970s full of little fabric swatches. Momosan Shop (momosanshop.com) stocks lovely objects and housewares, from blown-glass vessels to locally made ceramics. It’s the perfect place to find a gift for someone. After a busy day, I enjoy the roast chicken at Bistrotheque (bistrotheque.com). It’s near Vyner Street, which is where a lot of the best modern art galleries are located. On a Thursday night it’s packed with people stopping by after an opening.

3/Globe Shop Tokyo This small store specializes in globes, from inflatable (and packable) versions, for about $20, to the Diplomat— illuminated, hand-finished, and priced around $17,000. globe-shop.net. 4/Ubukeya A family-owned shop that’s a shrine to tweezers, scissors, and all things sharp. If you’re in the market for something unlikely to make it through airport security, such as a kitchen knife (Ubukeya’s are prized among New York City sushi chefs), shipping is available. ubukeya.com. 5/Iwai Tsudura Ten A century ago, there were more than 250 makers of tsudura, the lacquered boxes used to store kimonos, in Tokyo. Today there is one. Ryoichi Iwai, who learned the craft from his father, weaves each box himself. Prices range from $86 to $400. tsudura.com.

Nihonbashi district 4 2

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SPOTLIGHT: ERDEM The fashion label’s flagship store at 70 South Audley Street in Mayfair, which opened its doors in 2015, was designed by Moralioğlu’s fiancé, architect Philip Joseph. A curving marble staircase unites the boutique’s two floors; works by Hockney and Jean Cocteau are from Moralioğlu’s personal collection. But the true showstoppers are the clothes: luxurious, inventive, appealingly exotic. erdem.com.

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gem near the British Museum. It’s been around since 1855. I draw all of my designs, and I go there to buy my sketchbooks, mechanical and charcoal pencils, and watercolors from a German paint supplier called Schmincke.

Riv

wonderful mixture of new and vintage books. It’s a stone’s throw from the Erdem store, and I try to sneak in as often as I can. The last time I was there I bought a catalogue of David Hockney drawings and a first-edition Evelyn Waugh book. Selfridges (selfridges.com) is a London institution. It has everything under one roof, from furniture to luggage. And the most amazing food hall. Drake’s (drakes.com) is my go-to for clothing. It always has something beautiful. I wear its tweed jackets with a pair of slip-on Vans that my fiancé bought me from Dover Street Market (london.doverstreetmarket. com) near Trafalgar Square, which I admire for its incredible curation. Also, on the top floor of Dover Street is a branch of Labour & Wait (labourandwait.co.uk), which carries

For art supplies, L. Cornelissen & Son (cornelissen.com) is a hidden

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C O U RTESY OF G RA I N SU RF B OAR D S

Mayfair/West End Heywood Hill (heywoodhill.com) has a

Bloomsbury

2/Saruya Since 1704, the craftsmen at Saruya have been carving the humble toothpick from the wood of the kuromoji tree. Don’t miss the painted gift-box sets, which start at around $17. nihonbashi-saruya.co.jp.

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I have so many things from Sigmar (sigmarlondon.com). The owners, Nina Hertig and Ebba Thott, collaborate with the Viennese workshop of Carl Aubock on some extraordinary pieces, like a biomorphic ashtray. For the Erdem flagship store I picked up a wicker chair by Nanna Ditzel and a bent-plywood chair by Alvar Aalto.

a fantastic collection of practical household objects.

Reporting by Lila Battis, Jacqueline Gifford, Samantha Neugebauer, Siobhan Reid, Jason Sheeler, Michael Snyder, and Peter Terzian.

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Why Germany’s Most Fascinating City Is...

In the German metropolis where Bach wrote cantatas and Martin Luther challenged the church, Jeff Chu finds a new generation of cultural provocateurs molding this city into one of Germany’s most dynamic and welcoming destinations. PHOTOGRAPHS BY ÉRIVER HIJANO

Leipzig, Germany, has a surprising number of green spaces, including ClaraZetkin-Park, which borders the Elsterflutbett River. Opposite: Barfußgässchen, a restaurant row in the city center.

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all I saw were stolid brick walls. But when I walked through the entrance and into the heart of this massive complex, which fills 25 acres in western Leipzig, I began to sense its story. Stylish young Germans bounced by on bikes, scarves fluttering in their wake. They popped into and out of a café in one building and a large art-supply store on the ground floor of another, stocking up on fuel for their creativity. The Spinnerei has long been a place of imagining and making things destined for homes and bodies elsewhere. This was once central Europe’s largest cotton mill, where, from the late 19th century and into the early 20th, hundreds of thousands of spindles produced countless yards of thread. As industry faded with the fortunes of East Germany, the buildings emptied—until they were rediscovered by a new generation of entrepreneurs. Manfred Mülhaupt was one of the first to recognize the Spinnerei’s potential. He arrived in the early 1990s, squatting with starving-artist friends in one of the Spinnerei’s many disused buildings. They rode bikes up and down its wide hallways, painted by day, then danced all night. “The first two, three, four years, we didn’t pay anything,” he said. “Nothing was happening, so you had enough time to do your work. If you had a party, everyone would come because Leipzig had no bars. No nothing.” Today, the Spinnerei once again thrums with creative life. It houses shops, a restaurant, worldclass art galleries, even an art-house cinema. Sunlight streams through the cast-iron casement windows, illuminating the work of the dozens of artists and designers who have ateliers here, including carpenters, sculptors, porcelain makers, and several painters of the famed New Leipzig School. You can even stay in the Spinnerei.

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I L LU ST RAT IO N S BY LU K E C HO IC E

OUTSIDE THE SPINNEREI,


Clockwise from top left: The Spinnerei, a textile mill that now houses galleries and shops; Hotel Paris Syndrom by artist Jun Yang, one of two bookable guest suites that double as installations at the Museum of Contemporary Art Leipzig; travelers can navigate the city using the historic, affordable tram system.

Mülhaupt has carved out a four-room guesthouse, the Meisterzimmer, from rooms where he and his friends once squatted. I delighted in the numerous original details he has retained— heavy doors, bathroom fixtures, and pieces of furniture salvaged from the old factory. Like the Spinnerei, Leipzig has found new vigor. Twenty-five years ago, it, along with most of the former German Democratic Republic, was in economic shambles. Over the decade after the fall of the Soviet Union, it lost nearly half its population. Tens of thousands of buildings sat empty, including massive factories, gracious Art Nouveau villas, and late-19th-century apartment houses with Renaissance- and Gothic-style flourishes. But Leipzig, the largest city in the eastern state of Saxony, has grown faster than any other in Germany, adding more than 100,000 residents since 2000. (Its total population is now 570,000.)

Magnetism has downsides. Over the past few years, the influx of artists and the city’s affordability have led outsiders to proclaim Leipzig “the new Berlin.” Many locals I talked to found that insulting. Why was Berlin— which is just over an hour away by high-speed train—the measure of a German city’s worth? Soon Leipzig had another, even worse nickname, popularized by the mainstream media: “Hypezig,” a sign of growing discomfort with and backlash against its recent appeal. This represents both Leipzig’s opportunity and its risk. It became popular because it was so unpopular. The city has a reputation for being less insular and more welcoming than, say, Munich or Berlin, but it doesn’t necessarily share its secrets easily. “Leipzig is not really about buildings or institutions,” Mülhaupt explained. “It’s the people. It’s their ideas. It’s their willingness to try something out.” To visit Leipzig now is to experience an urban work in progress, one that is less of a rise and more of a resurrection. In this city that fostered Bach, Mendelssohn, Goethe, and Nietzsche, the centuries-old spirit of experimentation and the enduring ethos of possibility seem stronger than ever. Leipzig’s driving force is hospitality—to new ideas, to new creativity, to new people. And none of


To visit Leipzig now is to experience an urban work in progress. Its driving force is hospitality—to new ideas, new creativity, and new people.

this is a departure from its rich history. Indeed, it’s on that venerable foundation that contemporary Leipzig is building its modern magic.

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E IP Z IG SIT S at a historic crossroads. In the Middle Ages, it rose to prominence as a trading hub at the intersection of the Via Regia, a major east-west transcontinental route, and the Via Imperii, a north-south thoroughfare. “The main reason for Leipzig becoming what it is today is its history,” said photographer Jörg Dietrich, who makes panoramic photos

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of cityscapes. As we strolled the streets, he deciphered the histories knit into the surroundings for me. The picturesque, kayakfriendly canals? Part of an unfulfilled 19th-century plan to connect Leipzig’s landlocked factories with Hamburg’s seaport, 250 miles away. The necklace of lakes offering sailing and sandy beaches just a half-hour’s bike ride from Leipzig’s center? Open-pit coal mines, deliberately flooded over the past 20 years to transform the scars of the industrial past into recreation areas. The Fockeberg, a verdant, 500-foot hill providing sweeping views? World


From far left: Fashion designers Eva Howitz and Frieder Weissbach picnic with Weissbach’s husband on the Cospudener See, a man-made lake; a room at Meisterzimmer, a guesthouse in the Spinnerei; patrons of Das Japanische Haus, a community center.

War II rubble—remnants of the Reich, piled up and planted over to create a pastoral idyll. Leipzig’s location also made it a nexus for the spread of new technologies and ideas. Its university, Germany’s second oldest, was founded in 1409; Goethe and Nietzsche were both alumni. The world’s first daily newspaper began publication here in 1650. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Leipzig became an industrial giant—hence the Spinnerei—as well as a rail hub; its central station is Europe’s largest terminal. “Without this history, we wouldn’t have these spaces,” Dietrich said. Another era’s loss presaged this one’s gain. Take the Museum of Contemporary Art Leipzig, which, fittingly, puts stories of the past in conversation with the art and social concerns of the present day. Established after Germany’s reunification, the museum occupies a lush citycenter estate that pairs a villa built for a scientist in 1892 with a strikingly modern annex added in 2004. Accessibility was drafted into the architecture. The single-level annex has no stairs, just a gently sloped ramp, and giant windows

on the side face the busy Karl-Tauchnitz-Straße. “It’s a teaser. It says something to people outside. It’s about transparency,” curator Julia Schäfer told me. Until art was displayed in those windows, some passers-by mistook the building for a car dealership. During my visit, the museum was preparing for its spring 2018 exhibition, “Gaudiopolis,” which uses the City of Joy, a utopian experiment involving refugee orphans in 1940s Budapest, as its springboard. It deploys art to ask what compassion, democracy, and joy might look like in our times. In the past, the museum has commissioned work reflecting Leipzig’s evolving social realities: a 2015 film by Viennese artist Anna Witt focuses on a recent refugee from Syria who came to live in Leipzig, as well as one who fled East Germany in the 1980s. “The point is not to put art on a pedestal or to see it as a masterpiece,” Schäfer said. “It’s to make connections.” The curatorial staff also uses the space to cultivate community. The museum sits across the street from the famed Academy of Visual Arts and engages students in collaborations. An old stable houses a piano school. And in 2010 and 2012, two former studios were redecorated by artists and converted into guest suites, making this perhaps the only museum in the world that doubles as an inn. “There’s no room service,” Schäfer said. “But there’s art!” is blooming,” composer Robert Schumann wrote in 1840. He described his adopted hometown of Leipzig as a musical garden rivaling those of Europe’s greatest cities. That musical tradition continues. One need only wander the city to experience it. In one afternoon, I heard: A busking violinist

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who couldn’t have been more than 10 years old playing a Bach gavotte on the busy Petersstraße, a pedestrianized shopping street; a children’s a cappella choir in the market square; a pianist practicing scales—up and down, up and down—in a residential neighborhood; and horns blaring out of a fourth-floor window of the conservatory founded by Mendelssohn in 1843. In the mid 1700s, merchants and civic leaders created a musical ensemble for their own entertainment. Prior to that, nearly all European orchestras had been assembled as amusements for royalty or aristocracy; this one was for the people, and its first venue was a tavern. Eventually, the orchestra moved into the Gewandhaus— the “garment house,” used by textile traders—

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and was renamed for that space in 1781. Today, the Gewandhausorchester is one of the world’s premier orchestras. It will mark its 275th anniversary this year by welcoming Latvian conducting dynamo Andris Nelsons as its new Gewandhauskapellmeister. Its radical accessibility endures. You can hear Gewandhausorchester musicians perform nearly every Saturday at 3 p.m. in central Leipzig’s Thomaskirche, accompanying the church’s famed boys’ choir. Admission is just $2.50. J. S. Bach served as choir director here for 27 years. Fittingly, the Saturday programs spotlight his work—a rare opportunity to hear classical music performed in the space for which it was written. One Saturday, I crammed myself into a crowded pew in the Gothic sanctuary, which has been largely unchanged for five centuries. What history this space has witnessed: on Pentecost Sunday in 1539, Martin Luther, who had already been excommunicated from the Roman Catholic Church, preached a sermon here. As the first bars of a Bach motet filled the space, tears came to my eyes, which surprised me. I grew up playing Bach. But it took years

Clockwise from top left: Visitors can rent canoes to explore Leipzig’s many canals, including Karl-Heine; a gallery at the Museum of Contemporary Art Leipzig; “bondage,” a dish at the restaurant Falco that includes veal tongue, langoustine, and wasabi ganache.


for rehearsal’s agony to mature into something approaching appreciation, and I still summon the anxiety more quickly than the joy. The piece they were playing, based on the 149th Psalm’s opening lines, is called Singet dem Herrn ein neues Lied: Sing to the Lord a new song. It debuted in 1727, early in Bach’s tenure, when he was still building his reputation. He hadn’t even been the church’s first choice for the job—or its second. I imagined a bewigged Bach testing his new composition on the congregation with hopeful anticipation. I scanned the diverse crowd. Afternoon light streamed through the stainedglass windows to dance on an elderly man’s dampened cheeks. In front of him, a middleaged couple sat, hands interlaced, her head tucked into his neck and shoulder. Two young men, dressed more for a nightclub than a church, stared at the ribbed ceiling. The Gewandhausorchester musicians’ contracts require them to perform not only in the symphony hall and the opera house but also in the Thomaskirche. The experience feels sacred to them, too. “You are playing this piece composed by Bach where he may have written it,” said Turkish-born violinist Kivanç Tire when I met him and violist Tahlia Petrosian after the concert. “Bach is our god!” Entrepreneurial, not divine, inspiration led Petrosian to launch a series of musical afterparties called Klassik Underground. She wanted to give visiting soloists an opportunity to play in a different setting, and stars including Joshua Bell have accepted her invitation. Once every month or so, soon after the symphony packs up its instruments at the concert hall, some of the musicians reconvene 20 yards away, in the Moritzbastei. These ancient cellars, remnants of Leipzig’s 16th-century fortifications, have been converted into a cultural center. Tickets are just $12, and the format is decidedly experimental. For last June’s Klassik Underground concert, soprano Christina Landshamer sang a Bach cantata accompanied by both Gewandhausorchester musicians and images created by Leipzig-based painter Tilo Baumgärtel, which were projected onto the Moritzbastei’s walls and vaulted ceilings. Petrosian uses technology to spread the music’s reach; every show is recorded on video, then posted online. “There are lots of opportunities in Leipzig that you wouldn’t have elsewhere. From that standpoint, it doesn’t get better,” said Petrosian, who is Australian. “In bigger cities, it would be very diicult to do projects on the side—and you wouldn’t be as revered as you are here.” (Continued on page 98)

GERMANY Leipzig

A CULTURAL TOUR OF LEIPZIG Art and music lovers are spoiled for choice in this thriving, progressive city, perfect for a three- or four-day visit.

GETTING THERE

EAT & DRINK

While there are no nonstop flights from the U.S. to Leipzig/Halle Airport, you can connect via Frankfurt or Munich on Lufthansa (lufthansa.com). Deutsche Bahn (bahn.com) operates high-speed nonstop train service from Berlin that takes about 75 minutes.

Falco (falco-leipzig.de; tasting menus from $55), in the Westin Hotel, has several set menus that range in price but all feature Peter Maria Schnurr’s playful contemporary European cuisine. For something more casual, Pekar (wir-sind-pekar.de; entrées $7–$12) serves seasonally driven small plates and pizzas. For a drink, try Rudi (rudi-bar.de); the selection of German gins is excellent.

GETTING AROUND

The historic center is easily walkable. To get to the Plagwitz and Lindenau neighborhoods, where most art galleries are located, as well as East Leipzig, home to the newest bars and boutiques, I relied on the efficient tram and bus network (most rides cost $3 each; a one-day pass is $9). LODGING

I stayed at the discreet Luxury Collection property Hotel Fürstenhof Leipzig (hotel fuerstenhofleipzig.com; doubles from $187), Leipzig’s take on the traditional European grande dame. Built in the 1770s as a home for a wealthy family, it was converted into a hotel in the 1880s; everyone from Marlene Dietrich to rockers AC/DC has checked in. The Meisterzimmer (meisterzimmer. de; doubles from $112) is a fourapartment pensione carved out of onetime industrial space in the Spinnerei complex. The apartments have soaring ceilings and massive windows, but beware, there are no curtains or shades yet—I loved the light in the afternoon, not so much in the morning. You can also book one of the two suites at the Museum of Contemporary Art Leipzig (gfzk.de; doubles from $149), considered to be art installations in the museum’s collection. One, created by Chinese-Austrian artist Jun Yang, explores themes of counterfeiting and imitation; the other, by Berlin-based American artist Christine Hill, is inspired by the motifs of a hardware store.

EXPERIENCES

Most Saturdays at 3 p.m., you can hear the famed St. Thomas Boys Choir and the Gewandhausorchester performing a Bach cantata at the Thomaskirche (thomaskirche. org). In Plagwitz, the Spinnerei (spinnerei.de) has numerous galleries, shops, and a restaurant; guided tours of the complex are offered on Fridays and Saturdays. The Klassik Underground (klassikunder ground.de) is where top classical musicians perform after hours. The Museum of Contemporary Art includes works by Leipzigtrained painters such as Neo Rauch but also Americans Sarah Sze and Dan Peterman. Leipzigers are rightly proud of their parks. Rent a bike from one of the many Nextbike stations ($1 per 30 minutes, capped at $11 for a full day). A 30-minute ride south on dedicated trails will bring you to Nordstrand, the beach on the northern shore of the Cospudener See. A seven-mile path circles the lake, and there are restaurants both on the beach and at the Pier 1 marina. You can also rent a kayak ($7 an hour or $44 a day) or a canoe ($12 an hour, $62 a day) at Leipzig Harbor (Stadthafen). Go north along the canals to Plagwitz, or south via the Elsterflutbett to the Cospudener See. — J.C.


The Empire Builder crosses the Two Medicine River, on the eastern edge of Montanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Glacier National Park.


AMERICAN BEAUTY

On a family trip to Montana’s Glacier National Park—via the Empire Builder, one of the country’s most beloved long-distance train routes— John Jeremiah Sullivan discovers the grandeur of the rapidly changing Western wilderness.

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Swiftcurrent Glacier, as seen from a hiking trail in Glacier National Park.

rented a house in Montana for the summer and invited my family and me to visit. In an e-mail containing information on nearby airports they wrote, “The train is also an option.” Amtrak has a line that goes from Chicago to the Pacific Northwest, terminating in either Portland or Seattle. It passes through Glacier National Park, a few hours away from the house. There’s a train station on the eastern edge of the park. I wasn’t sure I had ever seen a real glacier. In Iceland once, maybe? My doubt suggests how present I was for the experience. This would certainly be my first sober-ish glacier. Plus I love trains. Over the past four or five years I’ve been taking the train back and forth between my home in North Carolina and New York City. I get a sleeper. The cost is less than a last-minute plane ticket. I board at Rocky Mount, a country station, around 2 a.m., then immediately lie down and read myself to sleep. An hour before I reach New York, they wake me up to let me know breakfast is ready. I sit over my coffee and eggs and watch the fields and old brick buildings of northern New Jersey go by, and it could be any decade of the past 150 years. Amtrak’s name for the Chicago-to-Pacific-Northwest line is the Empire Builder. When I looked it up on the Web, I found a Reuters headline that read: “To see why Amtrak is bleeding money, hop aboard its rumbling Midwestern ‘Empire Builder’ train.” That suggested a skeeviness that appealed to me. If it’s retro travel you’re after, you have to maintain a taste for skeeviness. But the accompanying article turned out to be about how the line, which began operating in 1929 as part of the Great Northern Railway, is losing money despite increased ridership. In this way, the Empire Builder is an emblem of the fading fortunes of

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P RE V IO US S P RE A D : J USTI N F RA N Z . T H IS PAG E : C HR I STOP H E R SI MP S ON

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GLACIER NATIONAL PARK

Montana

North Dakota

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Lake Superior

Portland and Seattle Michigan

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HOW TO TAKE THE TRAIN TO GLACIER NATIONAL PARK Lake Michigan

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GETTING THERE Glacier National Park is accessible by Amtrak’s 2,206-mile Empire Builder route, which travels between Chicago and Seattle or Portland, Oregon. A range of cabin options includes compact but comfortable family bedrooms that sleep up to four. The dining area serves such satisfying dishes as mussels in white wine and steak béarnaise. amtrak.com; one-way sleeper car suites from $260.

Lake Josephine, one of the many glacially carved lakes in Glacier National Park.

THE PARK Occupying more than 1 million acres in the northwestern corner of Montana, Glacier National Park is a paradise of mountain lakes, secluded campgrounds, and 745 miles of hiking trails. Disembark the train between April and October at East Glacier Park Village, the gateway town to the park’s eastern edge; the rest of the year, the train stops at Browning, a short drive away. nps.gov; high-season entrance fees from $15.

LODGES Three-story tree trunks surround the lobby of Glacier Park Lodge (glacierpark collection.com; doubles from $159). Built in 1913, the hotel is charming and well-maintained. An hour north is St. Mary Lodge & Resort (glacierparkcollection. com; doubles from $119). In addition to the busy, friendly Great Bear Lodge— which has a firstclass restaurant— the property just introduced 10 “tiny homes.”

ACTIVITIES Glacier Park Boat Company has been sailing the area’s many glacial lakes since 1938. Its tour of St. Mary Lake takes passengers around much-photographed Wild Goose Island while showing off the panorama of surrounding peaks. Tack on a guided hike to nearby Baring Falls free of charge. glacierparkboats. com; adult fares from $27.50. — Hannah Walhout

American rail travel. An important early line connecting the Midwest to the West, it tracks part of the Lewis and Clark Trail. In its heyday, it represented American, well, empire—not to mention the idea that there was no better way of viewing the country than from the comfort of a rail car. It’s worth noting that the current administration has proposed discontinuing Amtrak’s long-distance routes, including the Empire Builder. For this storied journey, the end of the line could be near. As we got ready to board in Chicago’s Union Station, the first thing I noticed was the Mennonites. Loads of them. They gathered together, easily a dozen families, or possibly one very large extended family. These were Old Order Mennonites who wore the plain homespun clothes of an 18th-century Central European farmer—blues and blacks and whites, hats and bonnets. They had calm, friendly expressions. I found myself studying their faces

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and translucent eyes. My rude staring did not keep me from hissing at my two daughters whenever I caught them looking. A crucial part of parenthood is being okay with hypocrisy. Amtrak calls the compartment we had the Family Bedroom. Its design is truly ingenious. It’s the size of a closet but it fit the four of us comfortably, or at least comfortably enough that we actually slept. Two of the four beds come down from the walls, above the other two, like the flaps of a cardboard box. During the day you can push them up and use the bottom two as couches. Card table, window. I won’t lie: it was tight. After a few days you would start to lose your mind. But for a few days? Much fun. The train has two levels, like a double-decker bus. On top are the observation and dining areas. Two of us were generally up there while the other two were in our compartment, making the close quarters more doable. Invariably we passed Mennonites on the (Continued on page 100)

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(Ecuador, continued from page 72)

n my third morning in town, I was greeted in the lobby of Casa Gangotena by Klaus-Peter Fielsch, a tall, affable Quito native who works for Metropolitan Touring. He had come to take me to Mashpi Lodge, an upscale eco-hotel in the cloud forest at the northwestern edge of Quito’s expansive municipal boundary, which runs far outside the central city. The four-hour drive passed through the same shape-shifting land I’d seen days earlier from above. As we followed the vertiginous mountain roads along the spine of the Andes, deciduous trees were replaced by towering palms and the crisp, cool air turned swampy. “And yet, technically speaking, we are now traveling from summer to winter!” Fielsch laughed as we passed the Ciudad Mitad del Mundo, where a vaguely Brutalist monument on the equatorial line marks the center of the world. (Constructed before GPS technology, it is technically a few degrees off the mark.) Paved roads soon gave way to dirt. Suddenly, Fielsch brought the van to a halt. “Look!” he said in a shouted whisper. A scarlet king snake was slithering off the road into the forest. “Keep in mind that you are still in Quito,” he told me. Arriving at Mashpi was an experience in itself, the muddy, axlerattling road opening up to a sleek structure of sharp angles and soaring glass walls that could have been airlifted from the Hollywood Hills. The hotel was developed by Roque Sevilla, the preservation-minded former mayor of Quito, on a 3,200-acre site previously owned by a logging company. It sits within one of the world’s most biodiverse regions, the Chocó rain forest, which snakes from Panama through Colombia to northern Ecuador. Since it opened six years ago, Mashpi has played an integral role in

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raising the profile of Ecuador’s mainland. “It will never be a Galapágossize economy—nothing will,” Fielsch told me. “But, more and more, we have visitors who want to do both.” Mashpi doesn’t stint on luxury: there’s a day spa, a bar with floor-toceiling windows onto the prodigious vegetation outside, and a world-class restaurant specializing in inventive takes on the Ecuadorian staples I’d sampled a few days earlier at the Mercado San Francisco. Having such a lavish base camp from which to explore the wonders of the forest made the next three days a sublime blur. Returning to the lodge after long days spent traipsing about in rubber boots never got old: the warm towel waiting at the door, the hot shower in the minimalist room, the supple bed on which I sank nightly into a deep slumber, the experience of waking to the singsong of the many species of birds that inhabit the forest. One morning, I sat hypnotized on a bench in the hummingbird garden watching hundreds of birds dart about, their iridescent wings flashing like sparklers in the mist. Later I took a hike that culminated with a revitalizing dip in a waterfall. On another hike, I discovered a family of toucans fighting over plantains. At nightfall, guides led guests on walks around the grounds, showing them wildlife in the beams of their flashlights. I saw neon-bright frogs, a tarantula, an iguana, and a lemon-colored vine snake resting on a steroidal fern leaf. After getting to know the forest from the ground, I spent my final morning at Mashpi seeing it from above, riding the lodge’s recently launched Dragonfly, an open-air cable car that carries guests for more than a mile above the tree canopy. Though completed during the construction of the hotel, its opening was delayed for years because of bureaucratic wrangling. The experience was a lower-altitude version of the helicopter ride—a chance to observe Ecuador’s primeval landscape from the vantage point of a pterodactyl. hile wandering Quito’s streets earlier in the week, I’d noticed the many small shops devoted to “ancestral medicine” that Quiteños frequent to buy potions and undergo

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healing treatments. I’d been too intimidated to enter, but after my time in the forest, I felt more acclimated to the city’s strange fusion between the civilized and natural worlds. So on my last day in town, I stopped in to one for an assessment of my soul. The healer who ran the shop, a wizened woman with a beaming smile, looked me up and down before declaring that I had some “dark energy” that needed purging. Without going into detail, suice it to say that her diagnosis mirrored that of my therapist’s. She led me to a nook that could have been an interrogation chamber—concrete walls, exposed lightbulb dangling from a cord—and told me to strip to my underwear. As she rubbed my skin with a mysterious bundle of herbs and flowers, my whole body began to itch. The main ingredient, it turned out, was stinging nettle. Pointing at the constellation of small bumps breaking out on my arms, I voiced concern in my pidgin Spanish. She was unfazed. “Bueno!” she said, explaining, as best I could decipher, that this was the dark energy rising to the surface. If so, there sure was a lot of it. By the time I got dressed, my entire body was a continuous welt from the neck down, and I felt as if I were on fire. Walking around in a daze, I began to worry that my desire to savor Quito’s authenticity was going to end in anaphylactic shock. But within about an hour the welts were gone, just as the healer had promised. As for the dark energy? For the rest of the day, and long into my last night in the city, I found myself bathed in a rare calm. David Amsden is editor at large for Travel + Leisure. He last wrote for the magazine about Telluride, Colorado.

Content in this issue was produced with assistance from Amanyangyun; Bermuda Tourism Authority; Capella Shanghai, Jian Ye Li; Casa Gangotena; Coral Caye; Hamilton Princess & Beach Club; Hotel Fürstenhof Leipzig, a Luxury Collection Hotel; The Loren; Mahogany Bay Resort & Beach Club; Mashpi Lodge; Metropolitan Touring; Naia Resort & Spa; and Rosewood Bermuda.


(Leipzig, continued from page 89)

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ATER THAT NIGHT, I visited Horns

Erben, a bar and music venue in a converted distillery south of the city center. Claudius Bruns, a writer and cabaret singer who manages Horns Erben and lives upstairs, was a pioneer in reincarnating old industrial spaces into new gathering places, a practice that continues today in the bars, restaurants, and clubs that are constantly popping up across the city. When Bruns moved in, much of the Horns Erben space hadn’t been updated since the early 20th century; there were old toilets and ancient heaters in the rooms. Today, the woodwork gleams. Industrial-grade carpets were stripped away, revealing original floorboards. Behind a wall, Bruns discovered an Art Deco door. The building’s various closets and crannies are still giving up artifacts from Germany’s fraught last century: Weimar-era glass bottles; a box of cigarettes from the 1940s; and most recently, a cache of 1970s East German posters giving instructions for what to do in an American nuclear attack. Horns Erben’s rich past inspired Bruns to stage a monthly improvtheater show in the upstairs bar. He calls the genre “improvised history theater.” The series riffs on a fictional bar’s communal life through the decades, beginning in 1920. Each show examines three months of German history. They’re now into the 1950s. The wartime shows, Bruns told me, were especially intense: “The actors would say, ‘Willkommen! Heil Hitler! I’m glad the Jews aren’t here anymore.’ ” The audience was unsettled. The performers strained to stay in character. “It felt so weird in this room, which is not a new room. We assume in that time there were some Nazis here. At the same time, it’s history. It’s not strangling us.”

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In 2017 Bruns created another improv show about fascists’ reemergence in contemporary Germany. “We can’t pretend they’re not there,” he said. Indeed: in September, when Germans reelected the centrist (and Leipzig University alumna) Angela Merkel as chancellor, they also sent far-right representatives to the Reichstag for the first time since the Nazi era. Here in Saxony, the populist, anti-immigrant far right garnered more than a quarter of the vote. In some parts of the state, it tallied 35 percent—more than anywhere else in Germany. “It’s so frightening,” Bruns says. “I thought we had overcome.” T CAN BE HARD to square such xenophobic impulses with the insistent testimony I heard from locals, transplants, and visitors alike that Leipzig is an uncommonly open German city. One afternoon, I met local fashion figures Eva Howitz and Frieder Weissbach for drinks. Their footwear and clothing designs, bearing the Howitzweissbach label, blend the region’s craft traditions— shoemaking in nearby Weißenfels, textile work from the village of Jahnsdorf—with sculptural and architectural forms taught in Leipzig’s academies. Howitz and Weissbach ignore the conventional fashion-season calendar, and their work, which has a particularly strong following in Australia and Kuwait, sits defiantly outside their industry’s mainstream. In Leipzig, they feel free of both the commercial pressures of the larger fashion scene in Berlin and the cultural conservatism of surrounding Saxony. “Leipzig is a bit of an island. We have a heterogeneity you can feel,” Weissbach said, citing the city’s inspirational mix of students, artists, entrepreneurs, and musicians. “You’re quickly a friend when you come here,” Howitz added. This is the Leipzig I encountered. Such eagerness to please often manifests in unconventional ways, including at the table. Take Falco, the only restaurant with two Michelin stars in the former East Germany outside Berlin. Chef Peter Maria Schnurr does serve an elaborate, $308 eight-course tasting menu,

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which includes a knowingly ostentatious dish-as-socialcommentary called “high roller”— an assemblage that includes raw scallops, Royal caviar, hazelnut oil, and lovage. But the governing ethos of the restaurant, which sits on the Westin Hotel’s 27th floor and is named for the falcons that nest outside its windows, is decidedly more egalitarian. It offers a more modest $123 prix fixe and, in the bar, a $55 one. If that’s still too dear, “come spend 12 euros and have dessert,” said Schnurr, an ebullient character so determined to push against fine dining’s conventions that he once outfitted his servers in hoodies and red Adidas tracksuit pants. You’ll find a similarly hospitable spirit on the other side of town at Das Japanische Haus (“the Japanese House”), a community center established in 2011 by Fukuoka-born architect Noriko Minkus. Many buildings in Leipzig’s east remain unrenovated. Graiti abounds. Gentrification worries Minkus, but rents are still affordable for spaces like Das Japanische Haus. The name understates Das Japanische Haus’s mission: it gathers people from all nations. At 4 p.m. every Thursday and Saturday, dozens meet to cook a communal meal. (Come at 6 if you just want to eat. There’s no set price; you pay what you can afford. The Haus is supported by donations and grants.) Minkus showed me the sign-in sheet from the most recent dinner. The attendees listed their homelands: Germany and Japan, of course, but also more than 30 other countries, including Syria, the U.S., and Botswana. “The concept is to cook and eat together,” said Minkus, a relentlessly cheerful figure. Not everyone converses easily; the most common language is English, not German. The menu is usually vegan, to assuage as many dietary concerns as possible. “Everybody can cut vegetables. Everybody gets hungry. Everybody is welcome,” she said, echoing a nowfamiliar refrain. “Everybody.” Jeff Chu has written for Fast Company and is a frequent contributor to Travel + Leisure.


(Montana, continued from page 95)

narrow staircases. They were exceptionally polite about staircase etiquette, backing up so the other person could pass. And quiet. At dinner, for instance, their tables were so silent that I felt the need to control my voice, so that I wouldn’t ruin their dinners with my godless yakking. But it wasn’t hard to keep the talk down. I mean, the scenario was quite dramatic. I was sitting there having a not-disgusting steak and a notdisgusting bottle of wine, as the train blasted through the prairie at high speed. Through the windows I could see the American sky opening up, the horizon receding. My chest heaved. We had put on nice clothes for the meal. I looked around—others had done the same. Everybody was smiling. We were all invested in the experience of this train ride, which has something to do with a certain vision of America. I tried not to analyze it, knowing it would go poof on inspection. The train goes more than 2,200 miles, northwest through Minneapolis and Fargo, North Dakota, then west over the glacial plain, into and across Montana. An epic journey, but the land is not all pretty. On that first evening, the train stopped somewhere in southern Minnesota for a smoke break. I asked the woman from Amtrak who was in charge of our car about the Mennonites. Were there always so many? Not always this many, she said, but there were often a lot. They were ideal passengers. The same could not be said, she lamented, for some of the fracking miners who rode the train to and from the fields in the north. And who were the Mennonites? I asked her. Why did they ride this train all the time? I don’t know why I cared so much.

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She said they had communities all along the line. Maybe they’d settled in these areas to be close to the train’s path? She wasn’t sure. The Mennonites are a communal people. Getting together, having reunions, is crucial. If a family in a far-flung community wants to build a house or has just welcomed a baby and is about to baptize it, their extended relations in other towns come and stay for weeks or a month. It wasn’t that they were expected to or that they were exceptionally generous. It was a rhythm in their way of life. s promised, there was a train station called East Glacier Park at the edge of the park, about 40 miles south of the Canadian border. We disembarked. Directly in front of us, surrounded by an expansive green lawn, stood Glacier Park Lodge, where we would spend the night. It hinted at a cozy relationship between corporate interests and the state. In fact, Glacier’s very existence is due in no small part to the efforts of the Great Northern Railway, which built up the original tourist infrastructure and lobbied the government to establish the national park. But I don’t mean “cozy” in a bad way. The idea of a major passenger train taking you straight into a national park and letting you out there and not trying to sell you anything—I didn’t know we did that in America. There weren’t many people climbing off with us. From childhood I have associated national parks with crowds and, consequently, unpleasantness. But unlike at Yellowstone or Yosemite, Glacier’s attendance rates are quite low. We were there for five days in summer and we hardly waited in a line. Family fun aside, we had come to see glaciers. The next day we rented a car at a counter in the general store and drove an hour north. We checked in to St. Mary Lodge and a little while later took a boat trip on St. Mary Lake. The wooden boat was something like 100 years old. The captain was a cute, young kid, with curly blond hair like a surfer. He knew his stuff, though. He started talking about the hills around us. It was surprising how many were visibly scarred by something: fires,

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blight, insects. Some of it was the natural cycle of forests, he said, but much was new and worrisome. We could see the evidence, yet enough undamaged vistas remained that he could give a tour of nature’s beauty. This gave me a sense of America’s vastness, but also its fragility. Soon, the captain said, we would come in sight of a real glacier, Sexton Glacier. It would be visible on a mountainside. He told us a little about what glaciers are. There were snowfields all through the mountains around us. I had sort of assumed we’d been seeing glaciers the whole time. But, as the captain explained, there are real and technical differences between a giant snowfield on a mountain and a bona fide glacier. A glacier forms when snow turns to ice through a process of seasonal deposition and compaction. As new layers of snow mount, the lower layers change into a dense, tightly packed ice called firn. After many decades, the firn fuses into a glacier, which then starts to spread outward like a liquid. It moves slowly, over eons, but as invincibly as a tidal wave. Glaciers don’t just come and go, in other words. They are part of the earth’s long seasons, the ones that last hundreds, or hundreds of thousands, of years. “It’s estimated,” the captain said, “that the glaciers in Glacier National Park will all be gone by about 2030.” Murmuring stopped. Everyone sat there stunned. As in, about 15 years from now? “That’s what the scientists say,” the captain said. I looked at my daughters, the backs of their heads next to each other above the back rest in front of us. This was probably the only time they would see glaciers in their own country. It is deeply strange, to be living in the time when all of this becomes real. Even writing this, I want to tell myself to cheer up and not put it so starkly, but the facts are stark. In the 19th century there were more than 100 glaciers in the park. Today there are 25. It is happening fast. “2030?” came out of someone’s mouth, equal parts incredulity and concern. “I know,” the young captain said. We sailed around a curve in the


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(Montana, continued from page 100)

lake, and the glacier came into view. “This is Sexton Glacier,” the captain said. We all turned and saw. It was not an especially large glacier, but a thrill ran through us anyhow. We were spotting a white whale. It shone in the blue air. There is an interesting upside to the retreat of the glaciers, if the end of the world can be said to possess an upside. The melting ice both reveals artifacts and allows archaeologists to reach dig sites that were once impenetrable. One thing they are learning is that prehistoric people spent more time at high elevations than had been assumed. The Interdisciplinary Climate Change Expedition from Central Wyoming College has discovered that 11,000 years ago people made camps on glaciers in the Rockies. The evidence includes buffalo jumps, arrowheads, and spear points. “There wasn’t much to draw people up here in terms of hunting or gathering or foraging,” lead archaeologist Todd Guenther told NPR. “And it appears that people were coming up here to see the glaciers. You know, to see where the water comes from. Where does the water spirit originate?” I noticed that every time the captain asked for questions, my five-year-old daughter, Jane, would thrust up her hand. But he never called on her. There were plenty of adults with their hands up, and she was small. I knew it was making her mad. She’s a little copperhaired gymnast, and full of fire. Finally I leaned forward and whispered over her shoulder, “What is it you want to ask?” She looked back and spoke to me in her whisper, which is oddly close to our standard conversational volume. “You see that cloud up there?” she said, pointing through the window at a giant billowy white cloud perched on a mountain peak. I nodded. “Do you see the way that mountain is just sticking into the cloud?” “Yes,” I said. “Isn’t that amazing?” “But is it normal?” she said. Of course, she had never seen such a thing. We are from beach country. The mountains are so tall they stick into the clouds? It was wonderful to see it through her eyes. It so often is, with

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children. Mine have made me like vacations, which in the past more often caused me to long for death. I told her I thought it was probably normal, but that she would have to ask the captain. The boat got all the way to our destination—a waterfall—and she had still not been called on. I watched her jump down from her bench with her jaw set in an underbite. She meant business. She ran forward to catch him before the others could. From the back of the boat I could see her looking straight up into his eyes, gesticulating like her mother does. He had the kind of expression they invented the word bemused for. A few minutes later when I rejoined Jane on land, I asked her what the captain’s answer had been. “He said ‘Yes’!” she said. And looked at me like, Can you believe that? he friends we had gone to visit were staying in Paradise Valley. It looked like a place you would call Paradise Valley. Huge, green, fertile. We ate pizza at an outdoor hippie joint and drank local beers and the children behaved, and I kept looking at the sky. The West! The next day everyone went rock climbing, but I stayed behind. It doesn’t take me many days on the road to feel ragged and disassociated, even when I’m happy. I wanted to read and work and recover myself. Nobody looked super-bummed when I said I wasn’t coming. I’m not the first guy you pick for your rockclimbing team. Two hours later I woke with a start. The sound that had woken me

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didn’t stop. Instead it got louder. It seemed like the world was suddenly continuous thunder. I ran to the little balcony porch and saw a hailstorm of tremendous intensity. The stones were the size of shooter marbles, and there were so many that they clumped together as they fell. The ground turned white. I grabbed my phone, to shoot a video for everyone else. Then it hit me that this same hail could be falling on them too. I pictured Maria, my eldest, who’d been unexpectedly excited to climb that morning (she often shies away from sports, preferring her journal or phone), now dangling from a rope on an exposed cliff, screaming, pelted by hail. And then I looked up and saw two vibrantly glowing rainbows, one inside the other, so bright and perfect that you could follow them with your eye from one end to the other. It seemed that they should signal the end of the hailstorm, but instead the hailstorm roared and the rainbows blazed simultaneously, ice and fire. I wanted to shout, “Is this normal?” When the others came back, they said that they had indeed almost been caught in the hailstorm, but got off the rock in time. Everyone got home safe, from the rock-climbing and the train trip west, and my children can tell their children that when they were young, they saw an American glacier. John Jeremiah Sullivan is the author of Pulphead, a collection of essays. He is finishing a book called The Prime Minister of Paradise, to be published by Random House.

Travel + Leisure (ISSN 0041-2007). April 2018, Vol. 48, No. 4. Published monthly 12 times a year by Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, a subsidiary of Time Inc. Time Inc. is a wholly owned subsidiary of Meredith Corporation. Principal Office: 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. TRAVEL + LEISURE is a registered trademark in the U.S. and other countries. Subscription: 12 issues, $45.00; in Canada, $57.00 (publisher’s suggested price). Single copies $5.99. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Commercial Sales Agreement No. 40036840 (GST #129480364RT). Publications Mail Agreement 40036840. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Travel + Leisure, P.O. Box 134, Stn. Main, Markham, Ontario L3P 3J5. Printed in U.S.A. Copyright ©2018 Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Member of the Alliance for Audited Media. Subscriber Services, U.S. and Canada Direct all inquiries, address changes, subscription orders, etc., to Travel + Leisure, P.O. Box 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120, or call 800-888-8728. Editorial Office, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281; 212-522-1212. Subscribers If the postal authorities alert us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Postmaster Send change of address to: Travel + Leisure, P.O. Box 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. Occasionally, Travel + Leisure makes portions of its magazine subscriber lists available to carefully screened companies that offer special products and services. Any subscriber who does not want to receive mailings from third-party companies should contact the subscriber services department at 800-888-8728 or write to TCS, P.O. Box 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other material. To order back issues, call 800-270-3053. To order article reprints of 500 or more, call 212-221-9595.


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Glenn Nagel was a semifinalist in our 2017 photo contest. Submit your best shots at travelandleisure.com/ photos/photo-of-the-day for the chance to be featured on this page in a future issue.


6WRULHV 0DNH WKH%HVW 6RXYHQLUV “When we got to Mazatlán there was so much to do and we did it all. But the best memories we have to share with others are the times we spent doing nothing at all. #SouvenirStories

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Travel + Leisure Magazine USA April 2018  
Travel + Leisure Magazine USA April 2018  
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