La Rioja, its vineyards and wines

La Rioja, its vineyards and wines

La Rioja, its vineyards and wines

First edition, 2018 © Gobierno de La Rioja, 2018 Regional Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and the Environment Prado Viejo, 62 26071 Logroño. La Rioja. Spain T. +34 941 291 358 cuadernodecampo@larioja.org www.larioja.org/agricultura © Texts, the stated authors © Photographs and illustrations, the stated authors © Cover photograph, Sergio Aja © Photograph p. 8, Miguel Ángel Robredo Translations: TRINOR Graphic design and layout: Lles Printing: Gráficas Ochoa ISBN: 978-84-8125-688-8 Legal registration nº: LR 361-2018 Printed in Spain No part of this work, including the general design and the cover design, may be copied, reproduced, stored or transmitted in any manner or by any means whatsoever, without the prior written consent of the copyright holders.

TAB L E O F CON T E N TS

PRESENTATION .................................................................... 9

7. The repose of a wine ....................................................... 92 The barrel as a quality factor in ageing Rioja reds

MEMORIES

1. The time that saw the birth of Rioja .............................. 10

Juana Martínez García VISIONS

A history of a wine and a region up to the early 20th century Santiago Ibáñez Rodríguez

8. A monologue by a wine vat .......................................... 108 About the vineyards of La Rioja and the men who tend them and make wine from them

2. Nonagenarian Rioja ........................................................ 26

Emilio Barco Royo

A journey through the history of the Denominación de Origen Calificada Jesús Javier Alonso Castroviejo

9. Numbers, vineyards and barrels ................................... 124 The economy of the Rioja wine industry Mª Cruz Navarro Pérez and Emilio Barco Royo

THE VINEYARD

10. The guarantee of a name ............................................. 142 3. Anatomy of the vine ....................................................... 40

The Control Board. Quality control

Origin, morphology, vegetative and

in the field and in the winery

reproductive cycles, and varieties

José Luis Lapuente Sánchez

Fernando Martínez de Toda Fernández 11. Understanding, applying, improving ......................... 156 4. Monitoring the vineyard ................................................ 54 Evaluating and managing the vineyard

Winemaking research and innovation in La Rioja José Miguel Martínez Zapater

Javier Tardáguila 12. Rioja universe ............................................................. 168 5. In the field ....................................................................... 64 Irrigation, fertilisation and soil maintenance techniques

Unique in its style, diverse in its expression Juan Bautista Chávarri Mardones

Enrique García-Escudero Domínguez 13. Itineraries through La Rioja ....................................... 182 THE WINERY

Landscape and wineries in wine tourism Luis Vicente Elías Pastor

6. From the grape to the wine ............................................ 76 Technical aspects on making Rioja wines José Hidalgo Togores

PR E SEN TAT I ON

The book you are holding offers a tour of the different components

The journey continues with an in-depth look at the vineyards

of the world of wine in La Rioja, guided by different experts, each

of La Rioja and the people who grow grapes and make wine, the

a specialist in the field, who help understand the importance that

best exponents of how diverse and deep-rooted this activity is in

grape growing and winemaking have had in shaping what today is

the region. Now it is time to look at the figures behind Rioja wine,

La Rioja. It also enables a better understanding of production, vini-

its production structures and its sales to understand the size of the

fication and quality requirements, providing keys to the success of a

sector. And all of it is guaranteed by a name, Rioja, supported by

sector which is the mainstay of the region’s economy.

the Control Board, applying the strictest standards to ensure quality

In La Rioja, to speak of vineyards and wines is to speak of his-

and traceability.

tory, culture, tradition, landscape, nature, life, economics... There

But the key to success is not based solely on tradition. It is also

are many wine regions in the world, but few where this universe so

due to major investments in development and technology by grow-

permeates the whole of society.

ers and winemakers and to intense research work. Here, the Institute

Through the various chapters in this book you will learn about

of Grapevine and Wine Sciences plays an essential role, particularly

the history of the vine and wine in La Rioja, how it came to be con-

in dealing with the great challenges that face viticulture, such as

solidated as one of its main economic activities, where the Control

climate change.

Board played, plays and will continue to play a fundamental role.

The tour continues with an explanation of what this land is capa-

Later, you will delve into the understanding of the vine, its morphol-

ble of offering, many very diverse wines that nonetheless have points

ogy and physiology, getting to know the native grape varieties of a

in common that readily identify them as Rioja. It is undoubtedly an

region that staunchly defends its identity. You will continue on this

interesting feature that makes one seek a deeper understanding of

journey examining the techniques employed in managing the vine

this region.

to get wines of extraordinary quality. You will see how the character-

And now comes the end of the journey, with some notes on La

istics of the soil where the vines grow and its proper management are

Rioja’s wine tourism opportunities. Here, vineyard landscapes and

key factors in wine quality. When the time comes to pick the grapes

wineries go hand in hand with wine culture to provide unique des-

and take them to the winery, you will learn about wine-making

tinations to be enjoyed with the five senses.

techniques that are traditional in La Rioja. Then comes an essential

I would like to express my deepest gratitude to the thirteen authors

stage, oak-ageing, where the prestige of our wines is consolidated. It

who sign the papers in this book, which I think is a must for both

is not by chance that Rioja has the largest number of barrels of any

wine sector professionals and all those who want to know a little

wine region in the world, 1.3 million in fact.

more about a land that is intimately tied to its vineyards and wines.

ÍÑIGO NAGORE FERRER Regional Minister of Agriculture, Livestock and the Environment



MEMORIES

Topographic chart of the fertile plain of the river Najerilla and the Yalde with abundant vineyards.

Ministry of Culture.

Archives of the Royal Chancellery of Valladolid

ďœąďœ°

1 The time that

saw the birth of Rioja A history of a wine and a region up to the early 20th century Santiago Ibáñez Rodríguez Doctor in History



M E M O R I E S / 1 . T H E T I M E T H AT S AW T H E B I R T H O F R I O J A

1. I N T ROD U C T I ON As the vine and wine arrived in La Rioja, they remained in the re-

with them, and even more so when they adopted the Roman way

gion. In a process not without its difficulties, it managed to occupy

of life and abandoned beer drinking. For almost a century and a

an ever-larger space on cultivated land, pleased consumers more and

half, from the conquest to the time of Caesar, the wine drunk came

more and ended up being one of the most important sectors of the

from Italy. It was then replaced by wine from Tarraco and Barcino

economy of La Rioja.

(Laietania) and, in our area, it was the type produced in La Rioja.

In La Rioja, wine was consumed first and then vines arrived. The

Given that wine, together with oil, was protected by specific laws

alcoholic drink of the local native population was beer, and they

and was also an expensive item, it was initially bought by the local

learned of wine thanks to the colonising cultures of the Mediter-

elite. Later, when the region was incorporated into the Empire and

ranean (Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians), who introduced

the acreage used for vineyards increased, wine consumption extend-

it commercially via the coasts around the 8 -9 centuries BCE.

ed to different social classes, reaching the general population and

However, wine was first

slaves. Here, as in Rome, wine and its production and trade was a

known in La Rioja on

symbol of social prestige and it consolidated the domination of the

a large scale in the 2

nd

most powerful. It had high alcohol content and had to be watered

century BCE, through

down, honey was usually added and it was often drunk warm. In

the Roman legionnaires

many cases it was even linked to prophecies and the gods, and its

during the conquest of

consumption led to people losing their inhibitions.

th

Iron billhook from Contrebia

th

Hispania. The Romans

The route that vines took in La Rioja was different to that of wine.

later brought vines with

Vines required the legal incorporation of the region into the Roman

them. Recent studies have

Empire, municipalisation of the territory, setting up of the Roman

claimed that native Vitis

system of property and intensive exploitation of the land, construc-

vinifera already existed in

tion of Roman roads across the region and development of large

La Rioja, although there

population centres. Vines also represented civilisation. The region’s

Leucade.

is no evidence that it was

full incorporation into the Roman Empire led to the systematic and

2nd century BCE

cultivated, that wine was

authorised growing of vines in La Rioja in the first century BCE.

to 1st century CE.

obtained from it or that

At the same time as the region obtained Roman citizenship, ag-

it had considerable social

ricultural and industrial activities became highly developed around

value.

the cities (Gracchurris, Calagurris and Vareia). Large domains were

Museo de La Rioja

Grape growing and winemaking, trading and drinking occurred

also built along the Ebro valley and Mediterranean agriculture was

when what today is La Rioja was incorporated into the Roman Em-

fully implemented, both in terms of the species grown and of the

pire. The Romans imposed their agricultural model based on wheat,

techniques and tools used. The land was worked using slave labour

vines and olives and, thanks to the singular characteristics of this

and aiming at maximum profits so that owners could accumulate

region for vine growing, this activity prospered and became a part

wealth. Since their origins, vines, together with olives, were a key

of the land, feeding the habits and cultural heritage of the people

instrument for capitalisation, thanks to the fact that wine and oil

who lived here. The process was slow and unequal and took several

always had to be bought with money.

centuries.

Potteries gradually appeared in La Rioja near the vineyards, lead-

The Romans arrived in the region between the 3rd and 2nd centu-

ing to the construction of wineries, storage tanks, presses and vats.

ries BCE and wine was consumed immediately, initially just by the

By the 2nd century, except for the arrival of some highly prestigious

Romans themselves, soon after by people who had relations with

wines, regional consumption was completely covered with wine pro-

them and later by local people who traded, fought or simply lived

duced within the region.

ďœąďœ˛

Santiago Ibáñez Rodríguez

Fragments of mould with grape motifs from Arenzana de Arriba. Late 1st century, first half of 2nd century CE. Museo Najerillense

Roman vessel from La Maja find in Pradejón.

1st & 2nd centuries CE. Museo de La Rioja



Representation of vine leaves and the eternal drunk in the chapter house of the Monastery of Santa María del Salvador de Cañas.

Cañas, La Rioja.

Charo Díez



Santiago Ibáñez Rodríguez

That what when the real history of the wine that bears La Rioja’s

was an essential part of the Eucharistic celebration and taking bread

name started. It was also the time when Rome laid down the basis

and wine in the communion was usual up to the middle of the 12th

for what would become wineries in La Rioja, which included specif-

century. The concept, use and purposes of wine changed against An-

ic premises or cella vinaria, the use of wicker baskets to collect the

tiquity but, and this is the important thing, its use involved grape

grapes, the use of vats and the torcularium (press), lacus (fermenta-

growing and the conversion of grapes into wine. Even more, the

tion pool), and storage in specific, partially-buried vessels (ordolia),

clergy extended vines to all the lands along the Pilgrim’s Way to San-

where malolactic fermentation took place.

tiago and generalised wine as a drink for all people regardless of their th

The development of the vine and wine continued until the 9

social or economic status. The adaptation of vines in our region,

century according to the ups and downs of the local weather and the

at latitudes and altitudes much higher than those we are used to

commercial interests of owners in covering the local, urban and re-

nowadays, the selection process of the best varieties and the region-

gional consumption its production was aimed at. Considering that

al particularities adopted by the plants are intimately linked to the

the large landowners in the Ebro valley maintained an agricultural

ministry of the Christian Church. The Church also played a clear

production that was basically monetarist and allocated a good part

role in the propagation of certain grape varieties and in the making

of their land to market gardens, olive groves and vineyards, cereal

and quality of vine, together with a taste for bitterer flavours. The

production always had a hard time. In Ancient times cereal always

‘complicity’ of monks, and the clergy in general, with the vine and

predominated but, for the first time in this region, there was a de-

wine was such that they became a daily presence, present in art and

bate about whether enough cereals should be sowed to feed the pop-

constantly appearing in documents, illustrating codes, sculptures

ulation and prevent hunger or, on the other hand, if the profitable

and even in the cenotaph of San Millán.

income from oil and wine should prevail. While the level of welfare

The evolution of the vine and wine in the Middle Ages was affect-

achieved through the pax romana was maintained, the interests of

ed by the presence of the Muslims and the later Reconquest (from

the winemakers did not clash with regional supply or the interest

714 up to the first quarter of the 12th century). The Muslims would

of smallholders.

control each area differently and with a different degree of Islami-

Agriculture started to change in the 3rd century, with the decline of

sation, and in general with laws and prohibitions that were more

the Roman Empire: roads became unsafe, markets started to collapse

lax than those applied in Rioja Alta and Rioja Media. Both Muslim

and the wine trade became something of an exception. At the same

chroniclers (Ahmad al-Râzî, Ibn Hayyan) and the cartularies of Al-

time, the numerous villae located around La Rioja assumed greater

belda and San Millán speak of the importance of agriculture in La

role in a process of ruralisation that ended up imposing an economic

Rioja and the key role played by grapevines: without distinction

autarchy. The presence of barbarian peoples in the early 5 century

between Muslims or Christians and in not very propitious places.

th

increased the sense of insecurity and also led to the digging of caves along river banks for habitation. This gave rise, in some cases, to the appearance of hermitages that later assumed great importance (Felices, Millán), and it also led to less interest in grape growing, which declined strongly and cereals for bread-making became more important. Wine production and consumption fell and was restricted to the local level, as a luxury item and even as a currency.

While political and economic factors and the fear of shortages led to a reduction in the surface area used for vineyards, and the wine trade struggled, a new opposing force would strengthen the role of the vine in the Middle Ages in the region of La Rioja: Christianity.

The new religion appeared in the region in the 3rd century and, by the 4th century, there was already an ecclesiastical organisation with its seat in Calahorra. Christian symbols and liturgy meant that wine



M E M O R I E S / 1 . T H E T I M E T H AT S AW T H E B I R T H O F R I O J A

Even so, the insecurity felt at the time, with a changing border,

in greater quantities in Nájera and the surrounding area. Reports

a certain degree of depopulation and the rejection of alcohol con-

in the 12th century continue to highlight the abundance of land

sumption by Islam all led to grape growing receding.

covered with vines, although this decreased in the 13th century in

As the Reconquest advanced a certain stability was achieved and

favour of more wheat production. At the time, there was a certain

there was a more systematic occupation and use of land, with more

tendency whereby the larger monasteries preferred land for wheat

cereal and wine production to the detriment of wood. References to

and left grape growing to private individuals. It is true that these big

majuelos (new vines) increased. A process began that tended to unify

monasteries were located in Somontano and that the urban devel-

the agricultural landscape to give rise to pagos: cereals next to cereals,

opment along the river Ebro gradually acquired more importance in

vines next to vines. The drivers of the new process were, above all,

the agricultural scenario of La Rioja.

the big monasteries: San Millán de la Cogolla, San Prudencio de

In Haro, Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Nájera, Viguera, Logroño

Monte Laturce, San Martín de Albelda… A Mediaeval monastery

and, later, Calahorra, populations and resources were concentrated

included accommodation, a church, a larder, a pharmacy, a library,

with historical rights, privileges and fairs. Initially, these municipali-

a workshop… as well as a granary store and a bodega (winery). Wine

ties had simple socio-economic structures and weak political and tax

was produced, sold and drunk, was part of the diet of the monas-

control, although they gradually approved by-laws that also regulat-

teries and its consumption was described in rules. As time went by,

ed all agricultural activity, including vineyards and wine. The dates

excessive drinking was criticised.

of the harvest were determined, when and how to plant majuelos, the

During this period, both through ownership of the land and

wages of the workers, the price of tools, the prohibition of animals

through what was obtained from the fruit of the bequests of oth-

on land occupied by vineyards and the grape loads that each grower

ers, the monasteries became great receivers of cereals and wine. They

could send to the winery every day. Vats were measured and the

managed them as true commercial centres, consuming and selling

order of sales was established, among other things. The importance

them. The economic networks they set up were essential during the

and independence of the municipalities was strengthened through

Middle Ages, and even in the Modern Age, giving cohesion to the

the presence of large parish churches that brought a large number of

production and consumption centres and supervising them and de-

clergy together and acted as a counterweight to the previous power

ciding on the crops to be grown. This stability enabled the relaunch-

of the rural monasteries. Furthermore, the parishes and their chap-

ing of Rioja winemaking from the 10 century onwards, and its de-

ters received tithes and offerings and became first-line agricultural

velopment in later centuries. Examples of this are the illuminations

players because they held the major stores of cereal and wine. The

in the miniature figures of saints dated between the 10th and 11th

urban world next to the river Ebro also grew in terms of trades to

centuries, which seem to come from San Millán de la Cogolla. These,

satisfy the needs of winemaking, from makers of wineskins to coop-

together with manuscripts from several places, draw, narrate and de-

ers. More than a quarter of the artisans from these towns worked in

scribe vines haphazardly distributed all over the estate and mixed up

leather and animal skins at the end of the Middle Ages. The wine

with trees (almond, olive, cherry, fig…). They talk of the harvest,

harvests from these towns covered local consumption, and some-

grape treading and pressing, the consumption of grapes, specific tasks

times that of nearby villages, but not often the district as a whole.

for taking care of vines (digging, pruning, hoeing, watering), with

Municipal councils prohibited the sale of any wine from outside,

specific tools (sickle, the corvillo de vendemar [hoe]), the need for

except for the medicinal variety, and controlled what was served in

places to store wine (caves, cellars) and also obvious things: looking

inns either red or colorado (rosé) and white, and also aguapié (wine

after the vines and making wine requires a lot of manual labour.

watered down in the orujo del lagar) and judiego (in Haro or Alfaro).

th

During the Kingdom of Pamplona, with Nájera as its seat (1035-

Wine slowly became the economic driver of the villas along the Ebro

1076), vines were commonly seen all over La Rioja and they tended

valley. Wine is also a commodity, however, and, like others, liable to

to be concentrated in certain districts. They are mentioned in many

sisas and other taxes to finance the council, king or feudal lord. A

documents regulating swaps, purchase and sale and, above all, dona-

new battle started here: whether wine should be protected from tax-

tions to monasteries to cover the cost of funeral services. Older and

ation, although with unequal results. In places where specialisation

younger vines appear in many municipalities in La Rioja, although

in winemaking was greater, the less wine would be taxed.



Santiago Ibáñez Rodríguez

The great winepress of the wrath of God. Blessed monk of San Millán de la Cogolla with the image of grape harvest and pressing.

National Library of Spain

