THE BEAUTY BARS
THE BRAINS HOW TO ACHIEVE THE BEST BIKINI BODY
the UK’S first online magazine for multi-cultural women
EDITOR'S LETTER SUN + SUMMER BODY+ SPRING SUMMER TRENDS + SOCIALITE = PRESSURE!!! On a daily basis women in bigger cities are bogged down with images of absolute perfection and collections of irresistible clothing that seem to have a new season every week. The pressure to look good sees us spending ridiculous amounts to reach the unattainable, has us running around like fitness fanatics, shopaholics and consumption obsessed lunatics who buy sweet smelling things in a squeezable tube that promise the hottest summer body ever. At Complexd we ‘don’t believe the hype’, which is why in this issue we share a few old wives tales that you can do yourself. We feature advice from the business women who are connoisseurs of grooming techniques and we show you how to maximise on natural ingredients by creating beauty recipes that will cost you a trip down to your local supermarket. Pressured consumers in cosmopolitan cities can really learn a thing or two from sun glazed folks in warmer countries. When it’s warm all year, you tire of trying to be the hottest thing under the hot sun and just learn to actually enjoy it. So we urge you, be inspired by the women who rummage through their wardrobes, re-invent what they already have, allowing them more time to actually enjoy themselves and have a stress free summer. Founding Editor Kered Clement
Photographer Jen Salt Mua & Hair Louise Ormiston Wardrobe Stylist Ineta Miskinyte Model Phoebe Battye @ Oxygen models Photography Assistant Donella Ward
CONTENTS ...Its COMPLEXD 04 What our readers say 05 I am Complexd because COMPLEXD PROFILES 08 The women with beauty, brains and amazing bikini bodies COMPLEXD BEAUTY 16 How to wear your colours this summer 20 The best beauty bars around 30 Beauty and body concoctions you can do yourself COMPLEXD FASHION 42 Rummage in your closet and style the old with the new 44 Re-use a piece and put a different spin on it 48 Revive a bland dress and bring it to life 50 Miss High Heelz 52 Fashion and Fascism 54 The Spring/Summer trends ripping the runway 62 Memories of a seaside romance COMPLEXD MEN 72 Skin and Bones unite us all
COMPLEXD LIFESTYE 78 A dream girl’s boudoir 82 Food that Looks good and tastes good 86 Candy cupcakes you can’t resist COMPLEXD TRAVEL 92 The beautiful adornment of tribal gypsy women
COMPLEXD what our readers say:
I absolutely love Complexd! Your message is exactly what the world needs. When I pick diverse models for a photo-shoot, sometimes I take heat for it. I am so excited to see that you embrace diversity, because I do that as well. This is amazing! Dylan Robin
Representation for multicultural women!
Despite being a male following a magazine geared towards women, the works of Andy Barter, William Springfield and Jay-D-Will on the Launch issue are quite inspirational for an up-coming photographer like me. Kudos to the team of Complexd from Barbados! Randi Bowen
“ The inaugural
issue is smokin! Amazing images, beautiful nudes and thoughtprovoking content. Right on!
I’ve always wished for a magazine that had a mix of everyone rather than one for this woman and one catering to that woman! Complexd is a breath of fresh air! Ariel Menendez
COMPLEXD We ask two women in the sunnier parts of the globe, why they are Complexd!
Heike Wollenweber Age: 30 Occupation: Publicist, Journalist, TV host Background: German/Italian; Jamaican Resident I am Complexd because... the various countries I have lived in have had a strong positive impact on my way of thinking. Living in Germany, Italy, England, Jamaica and the Bahamas have played parts in how I construct my identity today. I have the ability to adjust to different environments regardless of culture, class and creed by being respectful and non-judgmental to others. I founded AXE-S Media which represents artists throughout the Caribbean. It is hard at times to be a woman in the music business in the Caribbean but I love what I do and I hope that my work makes a difference in the industry and to the clients I represent.
Stuart Smellie, Equilibrium Photography
Marie Estelle Fielden Age: 17 Occupation: Student Background: Grenadian/British/Mexican I am Complexd because... I am unique! I don’t let anyone or anything hold me back from doing what I enjoy doing. I am fun, creative and live for the ocean. I’ve lived at sea on a boat for most of my up-bringing and I’ve travelled to the Bahamas, Florida, Tortola and Mexico, where my mother is from. I love experiencing new cultures and new ideas and would find it impossible to discriminate against another culture.
beauty + brains + bikini bodies
Photographer Tobias Key
Agency RMG Models Place of birth London UK Current residence London My Mother... is of Cuban, Filipino and Hawaiian descent and my father is Irish. I was asked to be... Playboy Asia’s 55th Anniversary Cover Girl! It was an honour to follow in the footsteps of previous Playboy models Naomi Campbell and Mariah Carey. Starting out as a high fashion model... was a struggle. I was a size 8 but I had a large bust and curvier hips than the ‘Industry Standard’ so I was always being told to lose weight in order to secure work in London. The best decision I ever made was embracing my natural shape and making the transition from high fashion to commercial modelling. I am more successful working as a size 10-12 model. My latest lingerie campaign is called “Campaign for Curves” and promotes a healthy, realistic and womanly body image. We women... are never satisfied with what we have been blessed with. Life is too short to stress about imperfections so instead focus on the parts of your body that you do like. Nine times out of ten what we are insecure about what goes “unnoticed”. To me beauty is a woman that carries herself with confidence and assurance no matter what she looks like. People think models... are personalityfree, vain airheads but I have come across intelligent, charismatic, driven, well-educated and business-minded models on a daily basis. Upcoming models should… be realistic with your goals. If you’re 5’1” you won’t meet the criteria for runway. Check out the list of reputable London agencies through AMA. Don’t worry
about not having any professional photos done beforehand. A reputable agency will spot your true potential from taking a simple Polaroid and arrange test shoots on your behalf. NEVER part with cash upfront and be wary of agencies with joining fees. Once you are signed be prepared for lots of harsh criticism, hours trekking around on castings and knockbacks on a daily basis. It’s a highly competitive industry and you do learn to grow a thick skin.
Beauty is a woman that carries herself with confidence and assurance no matter what she looks like
The Celestine Prophecy by James Redfield... changed my life. It helped me to address Spiritual Insight, selfdiscovery and direction in life with positive energy and optimism. I believe people should... ‘Live for the Moment’. We spend too much time dwelling on the future and the ‘what ifs’ that we forget to live in the present and enjoy and appreciate what’s right in front of us right now!
Pearl Veldwijk Agency Wilhelmina Models NYC / Elite Models Chicago Place of birth Amsterdam Current residence New York/ Chicago I am... a mix of Dutch, Chinese, Indian and Black. My Parents are from Suriname.
I would advise...that up-coming models understand the business side of modelling and keep track of your money!
I was... discovered by a local photographer In Amsterdam and you might recognize me from campaigns for Akademiks clothing line.
I think... I’ve read The Alchemist five times now, I always have it with me, it’s about courage and following your dreams no matter what. It keeps me focused when I am having a hard time.
I remember... my mother telling me to always love me. When I was younger I was made fun of for being too skinny. It’s important to really make an effort to love yourself every day. It’s you who has to live in your body and nobody else, so do whatever you need to do to give yourself that confidence. If that means changing your life style or friends, do it!
Photographer Brad Stevens
If I... could have one wish granted it would be to stay healthy for my family and myself. The 4 words that describe my life are ... Work, Food, Love and Spiritual.
was made fun of for “Ibeing too skinny ”
COMPLEXD beauty Head to toe tips to prep you this summer
COLOUR ME IN BEAUTY BARS FACE FOOD SUN, SEA & SAND
Model Gelila Bekele @ Ford Models NY Photographer Michael Rowe - www.michaelrowephotography.com Hair Mann for MannAtWork using BBD products Make-up Andrea D. Charles
colour m e i n
Make-up Artist Alison Cameron advises on how to look like Coco Rocha and not Coco the Clown
hat is it about colour that is so attractive but for most women slightly intimidating? We have all done it, walked away from a beauty counter with a beautiful eye shadow or lipstick in a vivid tone only for it to languish in the bottom of our makeup bag or collect dust on our dressing table. With the sun peeping through the clouds and the air hotting up we are naturally drawn to brighter colours to reflect the climate and lift our moods. Follow these 3 tips on how to wear the bright colours that you see on the Spring/Summer runways and in magazines without looking like Coco the Clown!
Tip 1: It’s all about the lips! It’s a trend that’s here to stay. The runways saw models in two-tone lips in contrasting colours. Make it wearable by choosing colours that are close to each other like a cherry red and an orangebased red for a subtle, yet effective, twist on a bold lip this summer. Model Sally Mac Photographer Antonina Dolaniecka - www.adolaniecka.dphoto.com Make-up and Hair Alison Cameron - www.alisoncameron.carbonmade.com
Tip 2 Experimenting with the placement of your eye shadow can look quirky and lines up with the carefree spirit of summer. Invest in a good-quality eye shadow in the colour of your choice and run the colour along your bottom lash. Keep the top lid bare and top off with loads of waterproof mascara. Lips can be kept bare to make the eyes really stand out. Photographer: Antonina Dolaniecka Makeup: Alison Cameron Hair: Shana Bond-Dixon Model: Aline @Zone Models
Tip 3 Clashing eyes and lips were big news on the runways this season. Tone it down by choosing sheerer versions of your favourite bright colours. A light wash of shimmer yellow eye shadow teamed with a creamy pale pink gloss can look pretty and up-to-date whilst making a subtle statement. Photographer: Jayesh Pankhania Makeup: Alison Cameron Hair: Angela Plummer Model: Eirinie @ D1 Retouch: Omer Janjua
BLO ME AT THE BAR Ever walked out of a Salon and wanted to burst into ‘I’m Coming Out’, Diana Ross style? That, ladies, is the result of a professional, thorough blow-dry.
he act of blow-drying ones hair is more effective than one thinks. It enhances a well-cut shape, embosses freshly washed hair and gives you a silky- smooth finish. That’s all well and good; it’s just a shame that the reality of our D.I.Y blow-drying routine is an attempt to flip a brush and blow dryer in unison like a pro, finishing off with a fantastic arm ache and mangled hair. Introducing Blo, Canada’s first and only concept blow-dry bar, where the stylists are called Bloers , the training camp is at the Blo U(University) and the clients come for a Blo on the go. Yes ladies, it’s that simple. “BLO ME NOW, BLO ME DRY!” I hear you scream. In this day and
age we have little time for the leisure we love, so anything that delivers it efficiently like Blo is a godsend. “Judy and I were able to identify a gap in the market, where women needed a consistent, convenient and affordable way to have great hair every day,” says Devon Brookes, who Co Founded Blo in 2006 with her mother Judy Brookes. “It was right at the time when nail bars were huge and the public had finally started to depart completely from salon nails, and flocked to the faster, more priceconscious nail bars. We felt the world needed a Blow-Dry Bar service too.” With a mother, boss and friend who sits on the business advisory board for Young Women in Business
Women needed a consistent, convenient & affordable way to have great hair every day and a General Manager who is an author on the subject of compassion in the work place, 23-year-old Devon Brookes can focus on her role as Franchise Manager and Brand Team Manager. “I specialised in PR at the London College of Fashion and developed the business plan for Blo in my second year at University. Now we just opened in San Francisco, California and we are starting to filter through all of the franchise requests we have received for the USA. In other words, the North American roll-out plan is under-way.” At such a young age Devon is able
to see her dreams come to a reality. Although she is currently enjoying the fact that she has been able to purchase a gorgeous flat in Vancouver’s heritage district, she admits being your own boss comes with a lot of responsibilities: “Working for yourself means you are the person who is liable for everything, and you carry the risk. Being an entrepreneur is about making the choices that most people would be too afraid to make. The funny thing about being your own boss is: you are never really your own boss. When you have clients, employees, partnerships and
shareholders, all of these people are like lots of bosses — you have to please them, manage the relationships and meet expectations. Being your own boss is more of a state of mind. There are always rules, there are always expectations and realities – but I decide what I want and what I am willing to do. To me, that is being your own boss.” Catering to all hair types and textures for 30 minutes, around 30 dollars with no cuts and no colour means you’re ‘not actually cheating on your hairdresser’ and the bars offer 7 fabulously themed blow dry styles to choose from ‘cause you can’t blo yourself’. Since its inception, the response from women and the media has been phenomenal. So you never know, there may be a Blo coming to a town near you soon. For more info visit: www.blomedry.com
Model Heidy @ Ford Models NY Makeup Chris Lanston Photography Michael Rowe
Have you been blinked? I remember my first time – I laid back, still tense and upright, straining my eyes to see what was going on, pushed back further; I tried to relax, reassuring myself I was in the hands of an experienced professional and before I could contemplate whether I wanted to go through with it I felt a sharp pain too quick to muster, too intense to respond, my eyes immediately watering. I lifted my heavy
head... this shape perfectly formed before me reminded me why this was a bittersweet experience. I didn’t care about the slight pain anymore because my eyebrows looked AMAZING! At the age of concern about looks and appearance, I observed as the Asian girls at school hovered over each other, pecking their heads like hens to twist and roll thread between their mouths and hands, creating beautifully defined eyebrow shapes. It was almost like a bonding session we could not infiltrate, a privilege for those who knew how to or who to ask. So, to the depths of Southall, West London I would trek every two weeks to get a piece of the action, to the disapproving stares from older Asian women if I showed any sign of pain,
threaded by the skilful women who only spoke in their native tongue (and pushed out of the queue by their friends and relatives). It was this that further persuaded Vanita Parti to open up Blink Brow Bars in 2004. ‘I was astounded that in London – which is a leading city in beauty – threading was still for those “in the know” and I was making a twice monthly trip into Wembley everytime my brows needed a tweak. Many of our clients are Asian and are thrilled that they can get the service in Central London, plus the London fashionistas absolutely love it’. With brow bars situated in major department stores around London, its success is a great example of how traditional beauty techniques
Model Amie @ Ford Models NY Makeup Andrea D. Charles Hair Man for Manatwork Photography Michael Rowe
Keep your eyebrows long and sleek – shortening them throws the whole face off balance and detracts from the beauty of your eyes introduced in a classy manner can thrive in the western market. ‘Threading is an ancient Indian skill that takes years to master and the therapists at Blink love the fact that their skill has become recognized as a an art,’ says Vanita. With the introduction of Blink, more women in the UK have come around to the idea of threading their eyebrows and doing so in public, making it a part of their weekly beauty regime. ‘I do believe that Blink revolutionised the way women take care of their eyebrows in the UK. I love the fact
that whenever I go out in the evening socially, I see groomed women that have been ‘blinked’. Blink does approximately 200,000 threads a year. Five pence of every eyebrow thread goes towards supporting Butterflies – a charity for street children in Delhi, India – which aims to treat and protect children from life-threatening diseases. For more information visit www.butterflieschildrights.org So, when are you going to get Blinked? For more info visit: www.blinkbrowbar.com
Unfortunately we are not all born with elongated eyebrows, so use Blinkâ€™s wax based, smudge free eyebrow pencils to lengthen or define your eyebrows. Available in five shades for ÂŁ13.00
Wax a Strip ‘If, like me, you dare not take a blade to your nether regions read on’
s the sun starts to show its face more frequently, the words to escape most of our lips is ‘goodness, I need to get rid of this man hair’- in reference to the unsightly body hair, untamed during the winter months, leaving us looking like male gorillas. The technique of waxing is so dreaded by some women, it’s just not an option. But if, like me, you dare not
take a blade to your nether regions, read on. I was first introduced to Lycon Waxing at Lifespa, opened in 2002 by Danielle Featherstone Price, CoFounder of Strip Wax Bar. My waxier recommended that I try their new product Lycon Wax. As something resembling a rich melted chocolate was smeared across my *ahem*
I wondered what on earth I had agreed too, I was ready to protest when my waxier continued to prod and flick the substance that now dried to look like brown Play Doh. With a swift reassuring peel I was instantly as smooth as a babyâ€™s bottom and barely felt a thing. Lycon wax shrinks to wraps around the hair meaning it does not stick to the skin, offering a pain-free experience and get this it not only looks chocolate-y, it comes with a chocolate hazelnut smell. Soon after opening the chicly decorated Strip Wax Bar in 2005 with her sister Maria-Louise, Danielle outsourced the Australian product so that British women could enjoy painfree waxing. Determined to re-educate and dispel the myths about waxing being painful, they later obtained the distribution rights in the UK and parts
of Europe to sell the Lycon Wax. So, if youâ€™ve got any questions about hair removal techniques, take it from the women who revolutionised the waxing industry.
Waxing Pro: The area will remain smooth and completely hair free for up to 3-4 week and hair will weaken overtime. Con: Needs to be in the hands of a professional to save on nasty burns or hair breakage.
Epilation Pro: Can be done in the comfort of your home. Con: It can be very painful and time consuming as each hair is tweezed singly.
Electrolysis Pro: Long term hair reduction. Con: Needs to be done many times to achieve hair free result.
Shaving Pro: Fast and convenient. Con: Your hair will grow back in a matter of days and be fairly coarse.
Silky Mitt Pro: Cheap and fast without having to use a razor blade. Con: Essentially does the same as shaving as only removals hair to skin levels. For more info visit: www.stripwaxbar.com
Face Food! ‘Gorgeous skin in a teaspoon of cream and strawberries’
ould you believe me if I told you that the answer to gorgeous skin was in a teaspoon of cream and strawberries? No! It’s not an al fresco dessert experience that will leave you eternally happy, it’s more to do with a trip to your local supermarket and a good blender. ‘The temple of tranquility’ Senspa – which offers a fusion of Eastern and Western treatments – has set up a workshop teaching you how to make your own skincare from pure ingredients
such as avocado, strawberries, manuka honey and natural yoghurt. Keeping in tone with their ethos of providing treatments and products that work in harmony with nature, the workshops are designed to encourage women to use chemical-free products on their skin. ‘We believe that pure plant extracts and minerals provide your skin with the best nourishment and care. We do our best to avoid chemicals that can be damaging to the skin and always use organic ingredients so that you don’t absorb any nasty pesticides into
your body,’ says the Head Therapist at Senspa. The next Make your own Natural Skin Care Workshop with Senspa is at Careys Manor (UK) on 21st June and 13th Sept 2010 from 6pm. From just £25 per person you can use the spa facilities after the workshop complimentary of Senspa. To make your reservation call 01590 624467 For more info visit: www.senspa.co.uk
Maximise on your ‘a fruit a day’ with Senspa’s cost-effective way to maintain a healthy body and strong skin. Here are some of our favourite skincare recipes from their skincare workshops. Get the ingredients and try it out yourself: Strawberry and Banana Cream Cleanser Ingredients: • 1 teaspoon plain natural yoghurt • 1 teaspoon un-whipped double cream • 1 teaspoon mashed banana • 1 teaspoon strawberry (mashed) Mix ingredients together well in a bowl. Keep refrigerated and use within 3 days. Apply to
face and neck. Gently massage and remove with warm water and a face cloth. Almond Facial Scrub Ingredients: • 1 teaspoon honey • ½ teaspoon plain natural yoghurt • ¼ teaspoon rose water (opt) • 1 tablespoon ground almonds
Photography Christian Hameister Hair & Make up Michael Carnot Model Nina Savi by Mega Model Agency
ImageÂŠ Peter Dean Rickards Model Candice McCalla
SUN, SEA & SAND! A wise West Indian woman once said, â€˜Gal sit down in de sand and scrub up your body, dem treatment deh cost ah fortune in foreignâ€™ [sic]. Every beach I visited from this point on involved a ritual of head-to-toe scrubbing and rubbing with a sand and saltwater paste. I swear by it!
f you don’t get to visit a beach this summer, don’t disappear; Buy it or Try it so you don’t miss out on the exfoliation fun.
Buy it! Organic, Holistic and Ethical Skincare brand Neal’s Yard Remedies advises that skin benefits from a gentle weekly exfoliation. Try their refreshing Geranium and Orange body scrub which contains natural seeds, powders and salts that lift away dulling dead skin cells.
Try it! The BBC series Grow Your Own Natural Remedies, which follows James Wong on an ethno-botanical journey, shows you how to make your own invigorating body scrub with natural sand and seaweed. Here’s what you need to try it out yourself: • 25g dried kelp • 25g dried carrageen • 1.5 litres water • 3 large tbsp sea salt • 10 tbsp fine, dry beach sand (not builder’s sand!) • 15 drops rosemary essential oil 1. Soak the kelp and carrageen overnight in the water. 2. Cut the kelp with scissors into small pieces. Place the kelp, carrageen and water mixture in a pan, bring to the boil and simmer for approximately 30 minutes. 3. Put in a blender and whizz. Return the pulp to the pan and heat for 10 minutes. Stir in the salt, sand and essential oil. USE: Gently rub a handful of the scrub over skin in the shower, using circular movements and paying particular attention to rough skin on the knees, feet and elbows. Rinse off well. CAUTION: Do not use on the face. This is quite an abrasive exfoliator, so use no more than once a week. STORAGE: Will keep for 6 months in the refrigerator.
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fashion RUMMAGE RE-CREATE REVIVE Miss high heelz Fashion & Fascism: comparative analysis Rip the Runway A Sea Side Romance
RUMMAGE Publishing student/Model Tiffany Fraser rummages for something old and styles it with something borrowed or new to shows us how to re-create this season’s Spring/Summer runway trends without spending a cent. Photographer Luke Nugent
My dad’s linen blazer
My mum’s mumsy floral blouse 42 complexd
My granddad’s flat cap
My boyfriend’s pinstripe work shirt complexd 43
Meet Alani Gibbon, designer of innovative womenswear brand Inala London, which allows you to embrace your inner stylist and solves your wardrobe dilemmas with one purchase Name Alani Gibbon Age 29 Place of birth London Birth of Inala London 04 2010
Photographer Tom Bland
complexd fashion beauty
When I was around 17 years old I People refer to that dress... as would design pieces and get her to “Genius”. People love the sense of run them up for me. control that they have with the pieces Inala London signifies... Versatility, that I create. It’s especially good to practicality and imagination. Nothing have a man look at the dress and is really new and undiscovered in the appreciate it for its function and fashion world. design qualities. For me, it’s I love getting about digesting friends to try One garment that as much as I the dress on. can from my It’s usually done can transform surroundings with a glass of itself into many and creating wine, to relax something that different garments the mind, that’s is my personal when they start to saves money, interpretation experiment and Last year... invent all different space and time I found a piece ways in which to of fabric in my wear the dress cupboard. A lovely piece of silk jersey, creating styles that suit their own black with thin cream stripes that my sense of style, ones that I hadn’t even Mum had given to me years ago. I thought of. folded the ends of the fabric together I create resourceful fashion.... to create a tube and realised that if Multi-functional clothing is becoming I put two arm holes in the middle, it popular and more appealing, because could be worn as a top horizontally, people realise it makes sense. Having or a dress vertically. I got my mum one garment that can transform itself to make it up for me that same day. into many different garments saves Then my friend tried it on and we did money, space and time. I’m always a little fashion shoot. It took us less trying to find ways to cut down on than an hour to work out at least 10 waste within my life and my company. different ways in which to wear the I’ve just designed a dress that uses dress. That night, we went to a club all the scraps of fabric left behind opening in Soho and my friend wore after cutting. It feels good to create the dress, hood up, Grace Jones something wearable out of what many style. The cameras loved her, people would describe as garbage. were complimenting her constantly. An Inala wearer is... Anyone with When I got two orders for the dress an ounce of imagination. within days… I knew then that I was To see more Inala London’s designs onto something. visit: www.inalalondon.com
ould you believe, I’ve never... studied fashion officially. I am actually a singer/ song-writer/musician, so I’m only just coming to terms with this new title for myself, as a Fashion Designer. My approach to fashion designing is purely instinctive. My mum works in the fashion industry as a couture cutter for designers such as Bruce Oldfield, Tomasz Starwezski, Amanda Wakeley and Clements Riberio, so she has taught me a lot about fashion and the construction. I’ve been raised ... on a diet of threads and pins, literally. I used to eat them off of the floor at the foot of my mother sewing machine as a baby. My mum used to take me into work with her on a Saturday and would keep me occupied by giving me pieces of beautiful fabric to make Barbie clothes with. I guess that is how it all started.
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REVIVE The story of Sheena Matheiken by Brian Clarke
n 2008, Sheena Matheiken had an idea to wear one dress for one entire year. One day whilst wearing her cool giraffe socks, fate decided to play its role. She met another cool person by the name of Eliza Starbucks who just happened to be a designer wearing yellow tights that Sheena liked. They became friends and Eliza Starbucks designed the dress Sheena would go on to wear for 365 days of the year without fail.
The dress which became Sheenaâ€™s uniform was cleverly designed seven times in an inventive way that would be versatile for each day of the week. A uniform she would wear for a year, to help raise money to afford a child from the slums the chance to have an education. On May 1st, 2009, the suitably named Uniform Project began in partnership with the Akanksha Foundation, a grassroots non-profit organization founded in Mumbai in 1990 by college students also devoted to volunteering to help children of the slums. Every day, Sheena had a small window of time to get ready before her full time role in advertising. Everyday a picture was uploaded capturing her creativity in reinventing the dress before she rushed out the door. As the days went on she became a master of accessorizing and as the world watched on donations and accessories were contributed from believers and followers of the project. Sheena added a dollar a day to her project to secure a donation of 365 dollars. But on May 1st, 2010 when she wore her last dress a grand total of $80,523 was raised which in turn saw 223 children given the chance for a better life through education. This was the story of one woman, one dress for 365 days to help one underprivileged child. In her own words Sheen reflects on the project.
Photographer: Brian Glanz
I called it the Uniform Project because.... scrawny-hyperactiveMalayali-girl-wearing-a-little-blackdress-for-a-fairly-lengthy-stretch-oftime-all-for-the-cause-of-educationin-economically-distressed-locals.com was already taken. I’ve just completed 365 days of the Uniform project and I feel… like going to Disneyland. (That’s a US joke, because they always ask the US Football guys who win the Super Bowl that question and Disneyland pays them 4 million dollars to say ‘Disneyland’. Sadly, Disneyland didn’t make any donations to our fundraiser for Akanksha.org so, no, I don’t actually want to go to Disneyland... unless they make a sizable donation, at which time I may potentially change my answer.) I was motivated to do this project because... I had a soul-crushing job in advertising and I really, really needed to do something of consequence,
from our supporters. We received some something beyond trying to merely pretty wild things in the mail and it push products on consumers. was fun going way beyond my normal By doing this project I have safety zone with some of the outfits. achieved... something that really I have learnt that fashion... doesn’t wasn’t just about me. It would be better to rephrase need to be dictated by the magazines the question as … you can make loads and the industry “The main thing of great outfits out (that, of course, are this project has more concerned achieved is...” and of random things you that would be the with profits than probably have lying individuality, let birth of a pretty around in your closet, alone ethical sizable online making fashion more issues). And that if community of you aren’t afraid, people around the about individuality world who see the you can make loads of great outfits out of random value in using creativity as a means to address social issues. things you probably have lying around My outfit changes were inspired by... in your closet, making fashion more about individuality. firstly, the sands falling through the If I were to do it over again I hour glass as I rushed to get a picture taken every morning before I had to be would… do it over again. at my day job. But as the project got For more info visit: into full swing, I was also inspired by all of the generous accessory donations www.theuniformproject.com
Miss high heelz Can Feminism and Fashion Co-Exist A-Top My Monster Platforms? By Black lily They say, “The higher the heels, the closer to God”; Well, ladies, Mama is aiming for sainthood on a pair of ferocious Betsy Johnson,\ black satin number, just found them on Zappos and I’ll just die if I don’t get them right NOW!
There’s just one little problem with my outrageous high heel habit. Besides the fact that I can’t really afford them right now, I. AM. A. FEMINIST. I say it proud and very, very loud cause I am not afraid to claim the “F” word. In fact, I am a card-carrying feminist
Photographer Kat + Duck Hair Alexander Tome Make Kristin Arnett Wardrobe Styling Tara Denman Model Kenzie @ Wilhelmina
I may trip up on a crack in the sidewalk of “ Sure, life, fall and bust my ass nicely, but whatevs! I’ll do it as a woman who rocks sexy, sky-high, red stiletto numbers to boot (pun intended) - as in, I literally have a National Organization for Women membership card chilling in the recesses of my ‘monetarilychallenged’ wallet as we speak. Thing is, as you might have guessed from my effusive opening prattle about the Betsey Johnsons, I’m also about the girliest girlie who ever girled! Puhlease… there isn’t a lip-gloss, a glossy high-fashion magazine or a sultry pencil skirt that’s safe from the likes of me. And, although I mostly just glide through life (in my 5-inch stilettos) not giving a flying fuck about the contradictory nature of my very being, occasionally the paradox of being a girly-girl feminist smacks me right on my heavily-painted pucker. OUCH! Never is this truer than when I slip on a pair of super-sized heels. The ‘Lily,’ in actual fact, does not own flats. But, before I condemn myself outright for buckling to the sexist patriarchal paradigm and betraying all that I hold holy (and feminist), I must add that I’m not entirely sure my love of high heels has much to do with trying to appeal to the male gaze. I suppose it’s true that with a pair of high heels on, you can mould men like Play-Doh, but that’s not the only
reason I love them (the shoes, I mean). In fact, when I think about it, my affair de coeur with high heels was imprinted upon me even before my love of boys *gasps*. Yes, it’s true. I get my endless love for killer kicks “from my Mama!” Men aside, when I slip on a pair of super-sexy, silver T-straps, or drool over some dominatrix Christian Louboutin’s, something very deep is triggered inside my soul. It taps into that same joy I felt as a cheeky 4 yearold, sneaking into mommy’s closet and parading around in her 4-inch vintage Aigners (I even remember the exact pair of pretty, brown heels she bought from MACY’S in Brooklyn… fy’ah). Putting them on made me feel like a “big woman,” made me feel like my mommy who, to me, was this enormously powerful force of nature. Mommy was the epitome of strength itself, a Single, Black Mother who worked two (sometimes even three) jobs to keep a roof over our head. She and my aunties were nobody’s wallflowers - they were, and still are, loud, brash, funny West Indian women, who aren’t afraid to pass out tongue-lashings to anyone who crosses them. They don’t tiptoe around this world. They STOMP.
Sometimes they stomp in flats, more often in heels, but they always stomp HARD. The women whose power I worship and seek in many ways to emulate, are women who walk heavy on the earth, letting everyone know they’re coming, and you’d better get the fuck out of their way cause if you don’t you will get run over. Righteous, real life Super WOMEN! So, I bet you’ve probably sniffed out where I’m going with all this, right? Yep, in answer to the question, “Can feminism and fashion co-exist a top my monster platforms?” Uh, the answer to that would be an unequivocal, “Oh, hell to the yes!” Sure, sometimes I may teeter a little, wobbling around like newborn calf on shaky limbs. And maybe, occasionally, I may trip up on a crack in the sidewalk of life, fall and bust my ass nicely (à la Naomi Campbell). But, whatevs! I’ll do it all on my own terms - as a woman who rocks sexy, sky-high, red stiletto numbers when I’m completely alone in my own home washing dishes, just because I can. And, I’ll do it as the descendant of all those well-heeled, trash-talking, Amazonian, foot-stomping, loud, West Indian goddesses who begat me.
Fashion & Fascism comparative :analysis In this world full of clothes, cruelty and synchronicity, Elena Krylova asks - Do Fascism and Fashion have anything in common?
Online treasure chest of knowledge Wikipedia defines Fascism by the following elements: corporatism, totalitarianism, nationalism, militarism, anti-liberalism and anti-Communism. At first glance, Fashion, our innocent escape route from the dreary existence, has nothing to do with these disturbing notions. But a little further investigation quickly proves otherwise. It is no secret that once dear and intimate luxury businesses now rotate solely around demands of ever-increasing profit. And if small brands don’t comply - they crush you. Just look at what happened to the sweet little house of Rochas. As a result, pricing goes up, production goes to Chinese labour camps and the whole idea of luxury shoots to hell. Of course, the China part is kept under secret because high fashion is also nationalistic. Nobody wants to know that the “made in France” tag on their dress really only refers to the zipper. Even when our minds tell us there is no difference, the nationalistic notion of superiority of European manufacturing is deeply embedded in our subconscious. Italian Fascism used Social Darwinism as the ideological backbone of their economy. Survival of the superior - that’s how it feels when you’re reaching out for the last musthave dress and some long-armed blonde grabs it before you. First day of Harrods’ sale feels like downright militarism. Trying to squeeze into Chloe jeans is so about survival of the fittest it’s not even funny - it’s your ass or the seams. Period. Fascism also means a rejection of all elements associated with the Communist paradigm, like trade unions, strikes
get mugged in the next airport, duh. and freedom of discussion. When did you make choices - whether in politics or All this of course is irrational and last see a union of Chanel costumers? shopping, hoping that they would lead highly delusional. So the next time In the meantime, Chanel has been us to a happier future. And until we someone is appraisingly eyeing your hiking prices by 25% every four can learn to tell good from bad, real Hermés and you stand there enjoying months. Yet people silently keep on from fake, necessary from oppressive a warm feeling of smugness and buying. and just plain stupid, the choice will recognition, stop and think. How many never be completely ours. Like Totalitarianism with its immortal poor souls died while waiting for the leaders, the fashion industry too Things Fashion could really learn Birkin that never came? How many enjoys some personality cults, with from Totalitarian regimes: dieted to stomach ulcers because their own autocracy and mythology. State-regulated prices: An average Balenciaga doesn’t make anything in Everyone knows Anna Wintour’s handbag in Selfridges rose in price size 14? Vogue is so repetitive you can get by 150% since 2005. Now, seriously. It’s no coincidence that cheap, away by buying it twice a year, but Where is Josef Stalin when you need universally available brands like GAP she can still strangle anyone’s career. him the most? or Uniqlo are lovingly described as We know Kaiser Karl is not that great One good designer per brand FOR “democratic”. That’s quite right. of a designer, plus really vicious and LIFE: Who is this measly wannabe kinda demented commanding at but he’s universally Dior Homme? First day of Harrods’ Sale feels like applauded anyway. Bring Hedi back Nobody dares to and chain him downright militarism. Trying to squeeze say that Martin to the sketching into Chloe jeans is so about survival of the board if necessary. Margiela clothes are an unwearable Bread rationing fittest it’s not even funny - it’s your ass or mess, because at fashion shows: the seams. Period he’s a genius and Shove some carbs possibly doesn’t in Kim Noorda really exist. and other pellagra High fashion is nationalistic - nobody wants cases and no In his essay the Myth of Sisyphus, “Thanks, but I ate to know that the “made in France” tag on French philosopher at home” excuses! their dress really only refers to the zipper Albert Camus Secret police: spoke of absurdity Put all the messy of life without God, meaning and hope People don’t buy GAP in a vain attempt hipsters and Lohan look-alikes in for salvation. It is human nature to look to belong or impress. People don’t buy cattle-wagons and send them to a cold it to defeat their frenemies in the for balance and fulfillment, and that country for re-education. So we can battle of outfits. And with its neversearch often leads us into some funny wake up one day and they are just... ending collections of smock dresses places. Like Fascism that promised not.... there... and loose cardigans where M should happiness and glory after years of Forced job distribution: Let the models almost certainly be an XL these decay and humiliation, fashion brands model, designers design and celebrities, brands act as a liberation haven where well, celebrate. We don’t care that promise salvation through purchasing. you can eat, relax and let it all hang out. Jennifer Aniston has a movie coming out; A Patek Philip watch promises family We live in a sheltered and satiated and continuity; Chanel jacket she is boring and looks like cauliflower on elegance and class; a Rolex Daytona - time and a place where Duce has the cover of Bazaar. Gwen Stefani should long been replaced by Dolce, Salo sense of achievement and belonging; be confined to a microphone, who cares by Malo and Blackshirts by leopardLouis Vuitton luggage – a definite that she thinks Japan, is, like, really cool. print corset tops. Yes, we still have to promise that you’re probably going to Her patterns are giving me seizures.
Ri p the Runway This seasonâ€™s summer trends exposed
Hand to Mouth: Matching bag and shoes, so yester-year, itâ€™s all about matching nails and lips.
Purple is definitely the eye colour this summer as seen dusted over the lids of models on the Versace and Christian Dior Spring/Summer runway shows. Lilac ladies, donâ€™t be afraid to heighten the trend by adding an oversized purple accessory to signify your power to the purple.
Booties are hot but to avoid your tootsies getting overheated, booties with built in ventilation in the form of holes, mesh or perforation are literally cooler.
On the Paul Smith Spring/Summer runway show colours were mixed and matched carelessly but somehow cleverly, and that still didnâ€™t deter them from using pop colour make-up. Dare to be bright, bold and unabashed.
Photographer/Art Direction Jayesh Pankhania Make Up Suki Miles Wardrobe Styling Nasima Ahmed Model Martina Spuzevic Retouch Omer Janjua
A SEASIDE ROMANCE
High-waisted pants ÂŁ15 Topshop 62 complexd
Braces ÂŁ40 All Saints Hat Vintage 64 complexd
Lace Body ÂŁ20 Topshop Red Harem pants Vintage 68 complexd
½ Sleeve Body £14 Topshop Belt £25 Topshop Fur Coat Vintage 70 complexd
Photographer Jen Salt Mua & Hair Louise Ormiston Styling Ineta Miskinyte Model Phoebe Battye @ Oxygen models Photography Assistant Donella Ward
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SKIN AND BONE T-shirts are canvases for expressing and addressing political, social or cultural issues across the chest of the wearer. Skin & Bone is a new T-shirt label which delivers strong anti-discriminatory messages in intelligent light hearted lyrics, which aim to promote unity in the UK. â€˜Our launch collection was created to deliver issues that restrict our ability to accept and respect each other equally,â€™ says Jordan Barrett, Director of Skin & Bone. My... Mother is from Jamaica and my Father is English and Irish. My daily hustle... could be anything from auditions, castings, rehearsals, shows, studio sound checks, running Skin & Bone, research, meetings, answering emails, travelling, gym...oh and eating! Always on the grind! Skin & Bone... was launched to put themes and messages out there that promote unity and bring us together more as people. The name came from the fact that our skin and bones is the one thing that we all share. I wish... for Skin & Bone to be a brand that sends strong messages and I generally wish that people communicated better. A lot would change in society if this happened. See more S&B designs at www.skinandbone.com
Skin and bones is the one thing that we all share
INSPIRING INTERIORS: The Schiaparelli Suite After receiving a £75 million facelift, the 80-year-old Mayfair hotel offers the most desirable suites and impeccable interiors.The Schiaparelli Suite is our absolute favourite because it embodies what every little woman would have dreamt her imaginary boudoir to be. Complete with an Alma fuchsia-pink pony-skin feature wall and at a rate of £2000 per night it may remain imaginary for most of us, so here’s how to create your very own Schiaparelli Suite in the comfort of your own home.
Big Spender: Harlequin Wallpaper, Fuchsia / Gold - £35 John Lewis
Gold leaf and black chenille - £1,150 - www. juliettesinteriors.co.uk
Tesica Cushion, Black £30 - John Lewis
Bargain Buy: Value Plain Cotton Cushion, Pink - £3.50 – John Lewis
Looks Good Enough to Eat Meet Lara Ferroni What do you do? I’m a stylist What or who do you style? Food
eattle based food photographer Lara Ferroni is the perfect example of a woman doing what she loves best and doing it very damn well. From an English major to a software developer, styling food seems an unlikely next step. ‘After taking some time out to travel and figure out what I wanted to do next, I remembered how much I loved the whole process of cooking and taking food photos. I’ve always been
drawn to the aesthetic of food and tableware. And, then, there’s always the eating part. I quite like the eating part too,’ Lara confesses. After leaving her role at Microsoft and spending more play time in the kitchen she was able to discover that her passion settled at the bottom of a bowl of soup – touched by the right lighting and tilted at the right angle, of course. Lara Ferroni’s Cook and Eat blog has been featured in the top blog list of Gourmet Favourite Food Sites and TimesOnline’s Best of the Food Blogs and she has photographed 10 cookbooks to date including her own cookbook, Doughnuts, which hits shelves in October. Give your dish a makeover with Lara’s top tips on how to make your food look and taste good. You’d be craving mad not to take her advice! 1. Simple is beautiful, whether you are styling food for a photo or for dinner. A common mistake is trying to “dress up” food to make it more fancy with an ornate plate or too much frilly
“Serve fruit sorbet in a hollowed out citrus peel. Present warm soup in a tea cup. Shave your asparagus into ribbons. Have fun!” garnish. Instead, think about how you can pare it down to emphasize what is interesting about the food.
hollowed out citrus peel. Present warm soup in a tea cup. Shave your asparagus into ribbons. Have fun!
2. The quality and freshness of your ingredients matters. Ingredients will be at their most beautiful and inspiring when they are fresh and in season and haven’t been sitting in cold storage for months slowly dying.
4. Finally, love your food. If you really love the food you are preparing, you’ll naturally find the beauty in it and emphasize that. Let your passion take over and enjoy!
3. Be playful! Food doesn’t have to be serious and it’s more interesting when you can present something unexpected. Serve fruit sorbet in a
Follow Lara’s food blog at www.cookandeat.com Also see her Food Lifestyle and Travel photography at www.laraferroniphotography.com
Candy’ Forget ladies who lunch! On those hot summer days it’s all about darlings who dessert. Complexd recommends two of the cutest cake shops in London who make the yummiest candycoloured cupcakes Hummingbird Cupcakes Visit www.hummingbirdbakery.com for locations around London.
Patisserie Valerie Visit www.patisserie-valerie.co.uk for locations around London.
Photography: Kat + Duck (www.katandduck.com) Makeup: Chris Milone (www.chrismilonemakeup.com) Hair: Hair By Trinity (www.hairbytrinity.com ) Wardrobe by: Papusza Couture (www.PapuszaCouture.com) Millinery: Velvet Antler Model: Bruna @ Wilhelmina
West we are spoilt for choice â€œ Inwiththegold, silver and custom jewellery. Here a Rajasthani girl adorns her ears simply with pieces of straw
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ADORN Travel photographer Robert Leon captures the beautiful adornment of Lambani tribal gypsy women in Ajuna Beach flea market in Goa, India.
he Lambanis are the nomadic tribes of India. Also known as Lambadis and Romanis they travel from place to place seeking their livelihood. Their unique social structure sees the Lambani tribes maintain a strong matrilineal tradition where land is inherited through the female line. The Lambani women are great travellers, they can be found in groups throughout the central and southern parts of India selling their cloth at markets and beaches. Their work contributes considerably to the income of their families. Lambani women embroider bright rainbow-coloured fabrics heavy with mosaic mirrors and coins. Their work is sought after by collectors for its vibrancy and intricate patchwork where they use unusual techniques of sewing. Each piece of fabric depicts an aspect of the Lambani creation myths. The Lambani women commonly wear large, silver earrings laden with bells called Lolia and a large silver torque around their necks to which two large silver pyramid forms are attached. They are said to represent bee-hives, as Lambani people were once known as a bee-keeping caste when they lived in the southern jungle.
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