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 50th Anniversary Lecture  New Fundraising Officer

 CYA Reception at the AIA/APA  Alumni Reminiscing

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COLLEGE YEAR IN ATHENS BOARD OF TRUSTEES K. CHRIS TODD Chairman, Board of Trustees, College Year in Athens; Partner, Kellogg Huber Hansen Todd Evans & Figel, PLLC

RAPHAEL MOISSIS Vice Chairman, Board of Trustees, College Year in Athens; Vice Chairman, Foundation for Economic & Industrial Research (IOBE) – Greece; Honorary Chairman, AB Vassilopoulos S.A.

PETER SUTTON ALLEN (CYA ’65) Treasurer, Board of Trustees, College Year in Athens; Professor of Anthropology, Rhode Island College

DAPHNE HATSOPOULOS Secretary, Board of Trustees, College Year in Athens; Trustee, Boston Museum of Science; Director, Pharos LLC

JOHANNES MICHAEL BURGER Partner, Marxer & Partner (Lichtenstein)

JOHN MCK. CAMP II Director of the Agora Excavations, American School of Classical Studies at Athens

ANASTASSIS G. DAVID Member of the Board, Coca Cola Hellenic Bottling Co.

MARK D. DESJARDINS Headmaster, St. John’s School, Houston, Texas

ELIZABETH C. KING (CYA ’71) Alumna Trustee; Archaeologist

GEORGE KOMODIKIS Investment Consultant; Managing Director, Madison Holdings

CHRISTINE KONDOLEON George & Margo Behrakis Senior Curator of Greek and Roman Art, Art of the Ancient World, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

ULYSSES KYRIACOPOULOS Chairman, S&B Industrial Minerals S.A.

ALEXANDER NEHAMAS Edmund N. Carpenter II Class of 1943 Professor in the Humanities, Professor of Philosophy and Comparative Literature, Princeton University

CONSTANTINE P. PETROPOULOS Chairman of the Board, Petros Petropoulos A.E.B.E.

ALEXIS G. PHYLACTOPOULOS President, College Year in Athens; President, International Center for Hellenic and Mediterranean Studies

ANNE F. ROTHENBERG (CYA ’66) Trustee, The Huntington Library Art Collections and Botanical Gardens

ELIAS SAMARAS Founder, President and Managing Director of Digital Security Technologies S.A.

ALAN SHAPIRO (CYA ’69) W.H. Collins Vickers Professor of Archaeology, The John Hopkins University; Whitehead Professor at the American School of Classical Studies at Athens, 1992-93, 2012-13

THANOS VEREMIS Professor of Political History, University of Athens; Former Chairman, National Council of Education (Greece)

CYNTHIA J. WACHS WILLIAM D. WHARTON (CYA ’78) Alumnus Trustee; Headmaster, Commonwealth School, Boston

ARTEMIS A. ZENETOU Executive Director, Fulbright Foundation in Greece

On the cover: Mary Neville, CYA Fall ’12, admiring the stone markings left by previous hikers in the Samaria Gorge, Crete. (photo by Shelbie Loonam-Hesser, CYA Year ’12-’13).

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COLLEGE YEAR IN ATHENS TRUSTEES EMERITI GEORGE A. DAVID Chairman of the Board, Coca-Cola HBC S.A.

GEORGE N. HATSOPOULOS Founder & Chairman Emeritus, Thermo Electron Corporation; CEO, Pharos LLC

JOAN CARAGANIS JAKOBSON (CYA ’65) Free-Lance Writer; Advisory Board, Wesleyan Writers Conference; Trustee, New York Historical Society

EDMUND KEELEY Straut Professor of English Emeritus and Director of Hellenic Studies Emeritus, Princeton University

KITTY P. KYRIACOPOULOS Honorary Chairman, S&B Industrial Minerals

MARY R. LEFKOWITZ Andrew W. Mellon Professor in the Humanities Emerita, Wellesley College

POLYVIOS VINTIADIS Director, Morgens Waterfall Vintiadis & Co.

COLLEGE YEAR IN ATHENS ADMINISTRATION ATHENS ALEXIS PHYLACTOPOULOS President

PEGGY MYRESIOTOU Director of Administration

THEONI SKOURTA Associate Academic Director

NADIA MELINIOTIS Director of Student Affairs

CAROL CARR STAVROPOULOS Registrar

POPI BALOGLU Director of Housing and Catering

MARIA MALLIOU Financial Officer

VANA BICA Accountant

GEORGIA KATSAROU Librarian

VASSO MATRAKOUKA Short-term Program Coordinator

POPI TRIANTAFYLLIDOU President’s Office

JENNIFER HOLLAND (CYA ’99) Student Services and Social Events

ALEKO COSTAS (CYA ’01) Staff Assistant

JOANNA STAVROPOULOS Fundraising Officer

CAMBRIDGE, MA CORNELIA MAYER HERZFELD (CYA ’66) Vice President, North American Office

ERICA HUFFMAN (CYA ‘93) Associate Director of Administration, Campus and Student Relations

ASHLEY BROOKES Administrative Support Coordinator

KELLY COLLINS (CYA ‘98) Alumni Relations Coordinator

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COLLEGE YEAR IN ATHENS BOARD OF ADVISORS ALAN L. BOEGEHOLD Professor of Classics Emeritus, Brown University

RHODA BORCHERDING Director of Study Abroad, Pomona College

JOHN BRADEMAS Former U.S. Congressman; President Emeritus, New York University

NIKIFOROS P. DIAMANDOUROS Professor of Comparative Politics, University of Athens; Former Greek Ombudsman

JACK DAVIS Carl W. Blegen Professor of Greek Archaeology, University of Cincinnati; Former Director of the American School of Classical Studies at Athens

CHRISTOS DOUMAS Professor of Archaeology Emeritus, University of Athens; Director, Excavations at Akrotiri, Thera

ERNESTINE FRIEDL James B. Duke Professor of Cultural Anthropology Emerita, Duke University

NICHOLAS GAGE Writer; Journalist

THOMAS W. GALLANT (CYA ’76) Nicholas Family Endowed Chair, Professor of Modern Greek History, University of California, San Diego

DIMITRI GONDICAS Director, Seeger Center for Hellenic Studies, Princeton University

PETER GREEN James R. Dougherty Jr. Centennial Professor of Classics Emeritus, University of Texas at Austin; Adjunct Professor of Classics, University of Iowa

MICHAEL HERZFELD Ernest E. Monrad Professor of the Social Sciences and Curator of European Ethnology, Department of Anthropology, Harvard University

MARTHA SHARP JOUKOWSKY Professor Emerita of Old World Archaeology and Art, Brown University; Director, Petra Southern Temple Excavations; Former President of the Archaeological Institute of America

GERALD LALONDE Professor of Classics, Grinnell College

ARTEMIS LEONTIS Associate Professor of Modern Greek, University of Michigan

LILY MACRAKIS Special Counselor to the President of Hellenic College-Holy Cross

JAMES R. McCREDIE Sherman Fairchild Professor Emeritus and Former Director, Institute of Fine Arts, New York University; Director, Excavations in Samothrace

STEPHEN G. MILLER Professor of Classical Archaeology Emeritus, University of California at Berkeley; Former Director, Excavations at Nemea

THOMAS J. MILLER Former U.S. Ambassador to Greece; President/CEO, International Executive Service Corps (IESC)

GREGORY NAGY Director, Center for Hellenic Studies; Francis Jones Professor of Classical Greek Literature and Professor of Comparative Literature, Harvard University

GENE ROSSIDES President, American Hellenic Institute Foundation

MONTEAGLE STEARNS Former U.S. Ambassador to Greece; Author

STEPHEN V. TRACY Former Director, American School of Classical Studies at Athens; Professor Emeritus, Ohio State University

VOULA TSOUNA Professor of Philosophy/Chair, UC-Santa Barbara

CHARLES KAUFMAN WILLIAMS II Director Emeritus, Corinth Excavations, American School of Classical Studies


LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT

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his year, College Year in Athens celebrated with pride its 50th Anniversary. Alumni gatherings were held in Boston, New York, Washington D.C., and Chicago, and more are coming soon. Alumni from the sixties and seventies mingled with much younger, recent alumni and exchanged stories about their time at CYA and what this experience meant to them. Invariably the message was the same: their time at CYA was a most important, transformative time in their lives. All wanted to know how CYA was doing today. The answer had to be that CYA has been following Greece’s predicament these days. It is a sad fact that enrolments dropped dramatically over the last couple of years when Greece was hovering at the brink of the abyss. A year ago, in late Spring 2012, Greece was all over the world press. Would Greece leave the euro? Would such a move bring about the collapse of the eurozone? The news of Greece’s battle with austerity and its repercussions on the social fabric of the country were the stuff that was pumped into all living rooms by the mass media. Strikes and demonstrations completed the sad picture. But as of late the message from Greece is different. There is a spirit of guarded optimism in the air - and for good reason. First of all there is the unprecedented three-party coalition government, which has survived for over a year. Three parties of completely different political persuasion have managed to hold on together proving at last that Greeks can actually work together for the good of their country. This coalition government had the political stamina to take measures that no other government in Greece had dared to. The most important was the head-on collision with some of the most militant unions. The public transport union was forced to end a strike that was paralyzing the country. The school teachers union was forced to call off their action that would make hundreds of thousands of Greek school children hostage by denying them the holding of their annual exams. The general public in Greece responded with relief. Another positive development has been the lifting of the cabotage legislation that prevented foreign cruise ships from starting from Greece. As a consequence, Greek ports have seen a flurry of activity lately and the expected number of tourists to Greece this spring and summer is in the range of 17 million; this has not happened since

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2006-2007. The recapitalization of Greek banks is in progress. This, it is hoped, will pump much needed cash in the economy for business to be jump-started again. Privatization of public property has taken off first with the impending sale of part of the state lottery system. There have been setbacks like the aborted privatization of the state-owned gas distribution company but foreign investments are timidly picking up, despite the heavy taxation. The Chinese company Cosco, having acquired the management of part of the container loading facilities of the port of Piraeus, is planning to make Piraeus the Chinese trade gate into Europe, moving Chinese goods by train through Greece. These are hopeful signs. The most hopeful of all is the resilience and perseverance of the Greek people in the midst of a storm of austerity measures, of slashed salaries and pensions, and extraordinarily high taxation. The pain suffered by most Greeks is enormous. Although a lot remains to be done, a faint light seems to have appeared in the end of the tunnel. Barring any political accident, Greece will return, says the government, to normal borrowing from the markets by the end of 2014. As Greece makes it, CYA, I am confident, will return to normal robust enrollments. In the long run, Greek culture, history, art, language, and philosophy will remain popular areas of study. CYA will continue to teach these disciplines and make them available to American college students at the very place where they flourished.

Alexis Phylactopoulos President

CYA ADDRESSES GREECE: DIKEMES

USA: COLLEGE YEAR IN ATHENS

5 Plateia Stadiou GR-116 35 Athens, Greece Tel: +30 210 7560-749 Fax: +30 210 7561-497 E-mail: programs@dikemes.edu.gr

PO BOX 390890 Cambridge, MA 02139 Tel: 617 868-8200 Fax: 617 868-8207 E-mail: info@cyathens.org

www.cyathens.org www.facebook.com/CYAthens www.flickr.com/cya_dikemes blog.cyathens.org 1


FUNDRAISING NEW FUNDRAISING OFFICER Starting this January, CYA has a new fundraising officer who is based in our Athens offices. Joanna Stavropoulos, of Greek-American origin, has been involved with CYA on and off for a number of years in between her travels around the world working as a communications expert. With a BA in Communications and an MA in International Relations, Joanna began working as a print and radio journalist. She then moved on to become a Communications Officer for humanitarian aid organizations such as Medecins Sans Frontieres. In that role, she worked closely with fundraising departments of various charity organizations to bolster their campaign efforts. Joanna has lived and worked in Colombia, Argentina, Sri Lanka, Ethiopia, Zimbabwe, Haiti and Iraq. She is now based in Athens and will be working from the CYA Academic Center, in order to have direct access to the school’s programs and academic life that will inspire her work. We are delighted to have her on board, focusing her enthusiasm on generating more donor funds to help CYA expand and grow for its next 50 years!

NEW FUNDRAISING EMAIL! Please note we have a new email address for fundraising: giving@cyathens.org

.. MAKE A DONATION .. .. By Mail .. Make a gift by check – mail a check or money order to: .. College Year in Athens, PO Box 390890, Cambridge, MA 02139 .. .. Online .. Visit www.cyathens.org/give_now to give online via PayPal . .. .. By Wire transfer* .. Bank of America, ABA 026009593 .. 100 Federal Street .. Boston, MA 02109 .. Acct: 0000501-69735 .. (College Year in Athens, Inc.) .. .. *Please notify development@cyathens.org when you have made the .. transfer. .. Three more ways to make a .. .. tax-deductible contribution to CYA .. .. 1. Gifts of Stock .. By transferring appreciated stock to College Year in Athens, you may .. be eligible for a tax deduction equal to full fair market value of the .. stock, avoiding the capital gains tax on the stock’s increased value. In .. order for your gift to be acknowledged, it is important to notify CYA .. of the type and amount of stock you will be giving. You may do this .. either personally or through your agent or broker. .. .. 2. Matching Gifts .. Your employer may match your charitable donations, multiplying the .. impact of your gift. To learn if your organization participates, please .. contact your human resources office. .. .. 3. Named Scholarships .. What better way to support a deserving CYA student than through .. a named scholarship! You can honor a special person and give the .. incredible experience of College Year in Athens to an academically .. qualified student who would not otherwise be able to attend. .. .. ®

WE WOULD LIKE TO HEAR FROM YOU! You are our CYA family and we would like to know what more you would like to get from us! To the right are some proposals, but please feel free to write in your own ideas. You can either mail back the form, click on the link provided below (if you are reading this Owl electronically) or go to the CYA website (www.cyathens.org) and click on the button Alumni Feedback. Go to: http://www.sur veymonkey.com/s/ DRFC69B in order to complete the short survey online. 2

PROPOSALS FOR CYA ALUMNI RATE (from 5 to 0) Rate the following with 5 being the highest, so that: 5-Most Definitely, 4-Very interesting, 3-Interesting, 2-Acceptable, 1-Not very interesting, 0-Absolutely not CYA lectures offered online ....................................................................5 CYA courses offered online......................................................................5 Special alumni tours led by a CYA professor or a renowned archeologist..5 More Owls ..............................................................................................5 More alumni get-togethers ......................................................................5 Help for alumni to connect with philhellenic societies in their area ........5

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FACULTY PUBLICATIONS Despina Iosif, who teaches “The Religions of the Middle East: A Comparative Approach” at CYA, had a book published in the fall of 2012 entitled Early Christian Attitudes to War, Violence and Military Service (Gorgias Press, Piscataway, NJ). According to the traditional view, early Christians, prior to emperor Constantine’s conversion to Christianity, were pacifists who stubbornly refused to enlist in the Roman army and engage in warfare, preferring to die rather than betray their beliefs. Iosif presents a plethora of literary and archaeological findings which demonstrate that was not usually the case. The majority of early Christians, Iosif argues, did not find military service or warfare particularly problematic. Christians integrated with the dominant mores of society and that included military service. It is, in fact, possible that Christianity was particularly attractive to those in military service. This study looks to reposition early Christian ethics and the attitude towards war and to bring new understanding to the relationship between military service and Christianity.

GET YOUR CYA TILE Tiles are given to Friends of CYA who donate $500 or more.

.. .. LIBRARY NEWS .. .. CYA Library has a new catalog .. As of January 2013 the CYA Library upgraded to a new catalog. Through its new, user-friendly .. interface one can search keywords easily and quickly, receive better results, filter them according .. to specific refinements and use the advanced search for more targeted searches. Results are ranked .. by relevancy, popularity, author, call number, dates and title. Library clients can save records .. temporarily at the “cart” and use the social network buttons to share records on Facebook, .. Twitter, LinkedIn, etc. .. Students, faculty members and staff have access to more personalized functionalities. They can .. .. place holds, check the items they have out, see their reading history, create public and private .. reading lists and tag records. .. The catalog is available online on the CYA in-house website. .. .. Donation in memory of Prof. Elias Gyftopoulos .. CYA would like to extend its gratitude to the family of the late Professor Elias P. Gyftopoulos .. for its generous donation to our library. Over seventy books from his personal collection were .. donated by the family in Professor Gyftopoulos’ memory. This gift has enriched our collection .. and ensures that, as an educator, Professor Gyftopoulos’ legacy will live on in the books he has .. provided for our students’ benefit. .. .. Donation from Kissonas-Wood family .. CYA is deeply appreciative of the generous gift made by the Kissonas-Wood family, which kindly .. donated over fifty books from its private collection. These books have helped give more depth .. to the research materials we can offer, and will directly benefit our students and faculty alike. .. .. .. .. .. CYA ALUMNI REUNION: CLASSES 1970, 1971, 1972 .. When: September 27 – 29, 2013 .. Where: Lakeport, CA. (120 miles north of San Francisco on Clearlake) .. Schedule: .. .. Friday, Sept. 27th, 5 – 8 pm .. “Meet and Greet” cocktail party at TJ’s Bar and Grill in Lakeport .. Saturday, Sept. 28th .. 9:30 am Pear Festival Parade in Kelseyville .. 12:00 pm Greek Lunch at Riviera Heights Clubhouse in Clearlake .. 3:00 pm Wine tasting at Mt. Konocti Winery .. .. 7:00 pm Cocktails at Riviera Heights Clubhouse in Clearlake .. 7:30 pm CYA Class Pictures .. 8:00 pm Greek Dinner .. Sunday, Sept. 29 .. 10:30 am Farewell Brunch at Riviera Clubhouse .. .. Organized by Maureen McCloud Carpenter ’71 and Steven Schultz ’71 .. .. If you would like to attend or have any questions, please email Steven Schultz: .. sgsmozart@gmail.com .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 3


ALUMNI REMINISCING “THE CRISIS” How one CYA alumna has navigated the ups and downs of living in Greece over the past few years By Sarah McGee (CYA ’05-’06)

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s I drive past my old apartment on Xenokratous Street, memories from my time spent studying at CYA come flooding back in the same way that the sunlight pulses in and out of my car from the trees above. It’s one of those ideal Saturday afternoons where the rest of the weekend and the prospect of spending it relaxing are right at your fingertips. I, however, am no fool. I know that what actually await me are piles of laundry, grocery shopping, lesson-planning and collapsing in bed all before midnight. I continue my drive through the old neighborhood and wonder what I might have been doing exactly seven years ago, during my time spent as a student here. I would have most likely been on some island, or on a school-sponsored fieldtrip to the mountainous region of Delphi, or perhaps, the enchanting, Venetian city of Monemvasia. Had I been in Athens, I probably could have been found strolling from one shop to another on Ermou Street in search of the perfect outfit to wear out for the night. I glance down at my sweat suit and come to terms with the fact that I probably won’t change clothes for the rest of the weekend. Yes, times have changed, both for me, and the neighborhood. More and more shops are closing and the trendy cafes that were once overflowing with fashionable Athenians, now struggle to fill all the tables. Another strike of the city’s transportation workers adds an extra 20 minutes to my commute back home. As I sit in traffic, a radio announcer brings more continued on page 10 4

.. .. MUSINGS ON A .. RECENT TRIP TO .. ATHENS .. .. By Susan Spencer (CYA ’69) .. When I was a student at CYA, class of 1969, .. much of my modern Greek was learned .. through Greek songs, and my favorite Greek .. song was “Paliatzis,” sung by Stratos Diony.. siou. Singing “Paliatzis” (junkman or collec.. tor of old things), Dionysiou lamented a .. broken relationship and urged the paliatzis to .. come to the house where the now-separated .. .. couple had lived to gather up all of the mem.. ories that were reminders of “a lost embrace.” .. What made the song fun to learn was the fact .. that the paliatzis was a vital part of the neigh.. borhoods of downtown Athens as he drove .. slowly in his vehicle through the residential .. streets calling out “paliatzis” through his .. megaphone, along with a short list of poten.. tially cast-off items that he was interested in .. picking up, repairing, and re-selling. It was a .. plaintive, haunting call, one that has stayed .. with me over the years. .. .. In October 2012, I returned to Athens for .. the first time in 21 years and, staying in Pan.. grati with a friend, I woke up to the call of .. the paliatzis from the street below. Many peo.. ple had told me that I was not going to rec.. ognize Athens after being away for so many .. years, that it had changed so much. I was .. happy that they were wrong about a number .. of small things that had made an impression .. on me so long ago, such as this plaintive call, .. when I was exploring Athens as a resident .. and student for the first time. .. .. I have no Greek ancestry, so my Greek .. journey began with CYA. It continued .. through an additional 12 years of living and .. working in Athens, and has remained a .. thread through my subsequent years in the .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. continued on page 12 .

.. A RITE OF PASSAGE .. .. By Beatrice (Meyer) Ring, CYA ’68 .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. hen people ask me what was THE .. definitive experience that shaped .. life, (other than marriage and .. children)mywithout I’ll say “my year .. at CYA.” Now, afterthinking more than 45 years, it .. remains for me a life-changing experience. .. When I was accepted into the program in .. .. 1966, I wanted to experience Greece on my .. own for a while before classes started. So, .. having finished with college, I arrived two .. months early staying in a CYA rental apart.. ment until school began. I arrived in Greece .. as ignorant and innocent as one could be. .. Everything, from the alphabet, the language, .. the music and the culture, was new. Of .. course I had read the Iliad, and knew the .. rudimentary history of the country – but it .. had all been the ‘ancient’ world – not the .. modern. To live in the here-and-now of mod.. .. ern day Greece required that I open all my .. antennae to absorb what was being thrown .. at me right from the get-go. Two days after I .. arrived, and having settled into my apart.. ment, an American friend who lived in .. Greece asked me to meet her at Zonar’s, a .. fabulous café near Syntagma Square. “Great”, .. said I, and opened my English map I’d .. brought with me. Unfortunately Athenian .. street signs outside the main tourist areas .. were only in Greek in those days, and there I .. stood on the street trying to ‘translate’ the .. .. street names on my English map to match .. the Greek signs above me. It would have .. taken me quite a few minutes, but luckily a .. lovely passerby approached, and in his halt.. ing English volunteered to walk me down to .. the café. Right then I understood not only .. the critical need to learn the language and the .. alphabet but more importantly I came to .. continued on page 12 .

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CYA STUDENT FEATURED AT HER INSTITUTION, SOUTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY

Jenna Gaska’s (’13) fantastic experience at College Year in Athens

“For my first four semesters at Southwestern, I was able to expand my classical knowledge by taking ancient Greek. My exposure to ancient Greek culture and civilization in those classes heightened my curiosity and ultimately led to my interest in studying abroad in Greece. Since I had never been to Greece and also had more background academically in ancient Rome, I knew that I wanted my study abroad experience to be in a completely new place and covering information that would greatly enhance my knowledge as a Classics student. While many students typically take a semester abroad, I knew that with a double major and the associated degree requirements, a semester would be close to impossible. But through College Year in Athens (CYA), I was able to take a four-week class during the summer. This program was a perfect fit, allowing me to “get away” for an intense and highly rewarding experience while still leaving me time to do lab research at Southwestern. “The course I enrolled in, ‘The Archaeology of Greece: From Palace to City-State, covered not only ancient Greek history, but also ancient Greek art and religion. The professor was a CYA veteran, who had taught this course for many years and also lives in Greece. So, when it came to matters ancient or modern, he knew the answers! Fitting in a semester’s worth of material in four weeks caused the course to be incredibly fast-paced and serious. Yet I would not have had it any other way, as it allowed me to get the most continued on page 11

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STUDENT PERSPECTIVES BATTLING PRECONCEPTIONS WITH REALITY IN GREECE By Megan Gould, Bridgewater College, CYA Spring ‘13

One month ago I was flying over the wide expanse of the Atlantic Ocean, heading to a country where I was to live for the next four months. A country with thousands of years of history, which you can actually go see in person and touch with your hands. A country with natural beauty and architecture that is recognizable around the world and postcard worthy. A country whose native language is the stem of other languages. A country that is so small in size and yet so large in its historical significance. Greece. And yet how many times did I hear from other Americans, “You are going to Greece right now? Is that safe?”, or some other variation of the phrase. Multiple. So many times, in fact, that I began to feel as if my reason for wanting to go was not strong enough to battle their own negative image of the country. I had been planning with my family since my freshman year of college to spend a semester abroad in Greece, tediously making sure that I had everything set up correctly. Then I received a notice from my college right before my application was due, suggesting that I make sure I have a second option because they are thinking about closing the section that goes to Athens, Greece. I ended up having to specifically state to the administrators that I still wanted to go to Greece despite what I had heard, and that my parents were supporting me in the decision. With the help of the Coordinator of International Education, I was able to continue with my study abroad plans and now here I am in Greece. I am fully aware that I am the last student from my college to go through this program, and that my progress and experience will be a portion of the decision as to whether or not the study abroad section to Greece will be offered in the future to my fellow colleagues. So my preconceptions of Greece were varied. On one hand I had images of massive, dangerous riots and unhappy people, and on

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the other I had images of beautiful whitewashed villages, colorful accents, salads with feta cheese, and smiling people. Getting to experience Athens on my own with other American students has been an eye-opening experience. I am constantly awed by the various forms of beauty that shine through in this sprawling city, which are unknown back home. I was not expecting to see the orange trees that often line the sidewalks in my neighborhood, adding bursts of natural beauty and color. The overall amount of ‘green space’ in this city is extraordinary to me. I have passed several parks and squares that offer expanses of grass for the Athenians to enjoy, and the majority of apartment balconies that I see are covered with potted plants. Sometimes there are so many that you cannot even see anything but leaves and vines spilling out of the space. Friendly and inviting tavernas are everywhere you look, offering tastes of Greek cuisine such as the traditional Greek salad (which actually does NOT include lettuce). Even though Greece is currently experiencing ‘the economic crisis’, portrayal of what Greek life is like by the media is not entirely accurate. Yes, there are multiple strikes throughout the week here in the city and rallies every now and then, but there are other positive things happening that are often not portrayed on the same level as the political failures and mistakes. Greece’s economy is actually expanding in certain sectors, such as tourism and Greek-made exports. Many individual Greeks are making an impact and having success in their endeavors, but no one is hearing about it outside of the community they are located in. Through a civil society initiative I joined, these successes are given a chance to broadcast their positive impact in Greece. The continued on page 14 5


LECTURE SERIES – FALL 2012

Alexander Cudsi, Professor Emeritus of Panteio University and CYA instructor, gave the first lecture of the Fall 2012 semester on October 10, entitled, “The Arab Spring: Domestic & International Implications.” Dr. Cudsi, perhaps the preeminent Greek expert on the Middle East, provided an analysis of the recent uprisings in the Arab world, comparing the situations in Egypt, Libya and Syria. He explained that the Arab Spring began as a response by a new generation of Arabs to worsening economic conditions, a chronic lack of jobs, and a deep sense of humiliation when dealing with the state. It was also an attempt, Professor Cudsi said, to gain basic human rights and freedoms long denied them by oppressive military regimes. The revolts that have occurred in Egypt, Libya and Syria, Dr. Cudsi argued, have achieved different levels of success according to the structural stability (or instability) of institutions within each country. With unrest continuing in much of the Arab world, Professor Cudsi was able to provide only a tentative forecast of where these revolts were heading, and their implications for regional and international partners.

Greek society resembles a tray of baklava, and this resemblance goes a long way in explaining the Greek crisis. This was the argument that Professor Thanos Veremis, Professor Emeritus of History at the University of Athens and instructor at CYA, developed on October 17, in his talk on “Greece as a Segmentary Community: Features of Greek History and Society that have Contributed to the Current Political and Economic Crisis.” Similar to a pan of baklava, Greece is divided 6

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into numerous hierarchically layered interest groups, with leaders on top and followers below, connected to each other in a variety of mutually interdependent ways. This repeating pattern characterizes political life in Greece, and the way groups such as unions, political parties and extended families function, Professor Veremis argued. Together, they make up the extremely fragmented society that is Greece today. Dr. Veremis attributed many of the issues facing Greece today to the misalignment of its segmented society with the populist ideology that has characterized successive governments since the restoration of democracy in 1974. Populist leaders have tried to appeal to the wide array of interest groups within Greece, a clientelist strategy that ultimately proved unsustainable given the economy and the resources of the state. As Professor Veremis explained, if Greece is to move forward, this wasteful political system, in which public sector jobs are provided by politicians in exchange for votes, must be replaced by a system based on meritocracy, wherein only those with the proper education and credentials are tol be rewarded.

Dimitris Plantzos, Assistant Professor of Classical Archaeology at the University of Ioannina and former CYA instructor, gave a lecture on October 24 entitled, “The Past Ever Present: Images from Classical Antiquity in Contemporary Greece.” He began by pointing out what is already known: that classical antiquity has been used, since the beginning of the modern Greek state, to forge a common national identity, and images of archaeological objects have often been featured in public discourse to support state ideologies and promote national culture. It is also apparent that Greece’s classical past has been used for the purposes of modern nation building. In his lecture, however, Professor Plantzos told a less familiar story, based in part on his recent article in the Journal of Social Archaeology. He re-evaluated the link between archaeology and national identity by describing the way in which a local community near Athens re-appropriated cultural symbols – in this case a locally-found archaic kouros – for its own purposes of resistance to national authority. By means of this and other examples, Dr. Plantzos explored the complicated and sometimes unexpected ways in which archaeology interacts with present-day life in Greece and the current economic and political crisis.




The Parthenon is the best known and most visited monument in Greece today. Situated in the Acropolis of Athens, it stands as a symbol of Athens, of Greece, and of Hellenism. Far less known, however, is that the Parthenon served as a Christian church for almost a thousand years. In his talk on November 14, entitled “When a Column Speaks: The Liturgy of the Christian Parthenon,” Dr. Stefanos Alexopoulos, Greek Orthodox Priest and CYA professor, explained that the Parthenon functioned as the cathedral of the city of Athens, was known as the shrine of Panagia Atheniotissa, and became a pilgrim destination during the Byzantine era. Despite its use as a Christian church for close to a millennium, it is perhaps surprising that we know close to nothing about what sort of liturgy was celebrated within its walls. We have no written evidence, no witnesses as to what was going on ritually in the Christian Parthenon. However, one hitherto unexploited source for the liturgy of the Christian Parthenon is the corpus of Christian inscriptions on the columns of the Parthenon which, Father Alexopopoulos argued, give us enough evidence to establish links with the Cathedral Typikon of the Great Church of Hagia Sophia in Constantinople, and also indicate that the Cathedral Typikon was celebrated in the Christian Parthenon between the 9th and 13th centuries.

A panel discussion entitled, “Energy Resources in the Eastern Mediterranean: Source of Conflict or Cooperation?” took place on November 26, moderated by CYA instructor of International Relations and Security, Philippos Savvides. The panel also included Thanos P. Dokos, Director General, Hellenic Foundation for European & Foreign Policy (ELIAMEP), Panayotis J. Tsakonas, Assistant

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Professor of International Relations and Security, University of the Aegean, and Chralambos Tsardanidis, Director, Institute of International Economic Relations. Each panelist took about fifteen minutes to present his view of the possible economic, political and diplomatic consequences of energy exploitation in the Eastern Mediterranean. They agreed that these are uncertain times for Greece, Turkey, Cyprus and Israel, which face an increasingly complex environment: they must protect their own national interests, but, in order to take full advantage of the oil and natural gas available, they must also decide which energyrelated projects to invest in and how to cooperate with their neighbors. Furthermore, these critical agreements will undoubtedly be affected by the continuing political instability in the region as a result of the Arab Spring. Within this complex setting, new partnerships are already taking shape that will affect the energy resource policy of each country involved. Energy resource management will continue to be a critical dimension of life in this part of the world for years to come, and influence relations among countries such as Greece, Turkey, Cyprus and Israel.

On December 12, Charles Rodell, Professor Emeritus of the Department of Biology at the College of Saint Benedict/Saint John’s University, gave a talk on “Science vs. Religion in the U.S.,” which examined the lively history of science and religion in the United States, particularly around the theory of evolution. Professor Rodell provided brief accounts of key events and personalities in the ongoing conflict between religious believers and the scientific community. The troubled relationship of science and religion represents a curious paradox in American society. Numerous polls document that half of the American population, one of the most highly educated in the world, subscribes to a literal Biblical interpretation of human origins, and rejects evolution. Yet evolutionary theory forms the foundation of biological science and its applications in medical and agricultural research. Professor Rodell argued that the conflict is unnecessary, the result of a fundamental misunderstanding of the scientific enterprise, and the different ways in which religion and science make sense of the world.



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CYA’S 50TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBR .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..

President Alexis Phylactopoulos opening the evening

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Professor Nianias reminiscing about his time at CYA

his year College Year in Athens celebrates its 50th Anniversary by holding a series of events in Athens and in the United States. The first event was held on Thursday, February 21, at the CYA Academic Center. Michael Herzfeld, The Ernest E. Monrad Professor of the Social Sciences in the Department of Anthropology, Harvard University, a long-time friend of the program and member of the CYA Board of Advisors, gave a lecture on “Crisis and Continuity: Greece and the Refashioning of Culture.” Prior to Herzfeld’s lecture, CYA President Alexis Phylactopoulos talked about the school’s formative years and presented a commemorative plaque to former CYA Professor of Philosophy, Dimitrios G. Nianias. Nianias, who in his long career also served as professor at the University of Athens, Member of Parliament, Euro-Deputy and Government Minister, spoke with deep affection for his students and colleagues at CYA in the 1970s, described his attempts to make Plato and Aristotle into contemporary philosophers, and recalled that when the military junta was looking for him, he hid at CYA until his future wife whisked him away to the island of Andros. In a packed Ismene Hall, the audience listened intently to Professor Herzfeld as he spoke passionately about his abiding relationship with Greece, anthropology’s view of cultures as fluid, shifting entities with unpredictable futures, and its opposition as a discipline to such dangerous ideas as cultural fundamentalism, irredentism and nationalism. Focusing on the dangers posed by the rise of Golden Dawn, a Greek Neo-Nazi party whose racist ideology is based on the crypto-colonial notion that Greek culture is a fixed thing rather than a process, Herzfeld pointed out that the way out of the present crisis is for Greeks to free themselves from western images of themselves, and from the belief that culture determines one’s future.



Professor Michael Herzfeld giving his lecture on Crisis and Continuity

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Guests engaging Prof. Herzfeld in long, lively conversation during the reception that followed his talk


RATIONS ARE OFF WITH A BANG!

A photo gallery at the entrance of Ismene Hall honoring the memory of some exceptional CYA instructors

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In jovial conversation with former US Diplomat Brady Kiesling and Regina Tassitano.

What can we do to turn things around? Professor Herzfeld asked. The solutions he proposed included combating Golden Dawn, and educating people against its noxious ideology; building new forms of entrepreneurship; requiring ship owners to pay taxes and confiscating their property if they do not; insisting that the EU subject all Europeans to the same criteria, instead of acquiescing to the hoary stereotypes of lazy and inefficient Greeks; breaking the patron-client relationship between Greece and the EU; recognizing the existence of ethnic minorities in Greece as part of accepting that Greek culture is an ever-changing process; challenging the Euro-centric notion of Greekness, which was created in late eighteenthcentury Germany, in any case; and educating people in anthropology, a discipline that, perhaps more than any other, is committed to fighting against racism. Above all, Herzfeld said, Greeks must adapt and take risks, qualities for which they have long been known throughout the world. Professor Herzfeld was optimistic about the opportunities and capacities available to Greece in overcoming its current obstacles. At the lively reception that followed the lecture, audience members, including CYA professors and spring semester students, continued to engage Professor Herzfeld in conversation, and enjoyed being regaled by his stories and responses to their eager questions. By any measure, the CYA 50th Anniversary Lecture can be considered a great success!

A captivated audience in a packed Ismene Hall

9


“THE CRISIS” (continued from page 4) news of job cuts to the public sector and the growing unemployment rate. I turn it off and honk my horn impatiently at the car in front of me. How has everything changed so quickly? Where have the years gone? Why am I wearing a sweat suit and mentally organizing our weekly meals when I should be deciding which island we’d be visiting over the Easter holidays and planning my outfits accordingly? Later on, nostalgia drives me to go through old photos and Facebook posts. I pause at pictures taken with my CYA friends who had been like a second family to me during my year of studying here. There we were, at the Red Beach in Santorini, in front of the Temple of Poseidon at Sounio and hiking through the Samarian Gorge on Crete. I read posts like “Off to Corfu for a week!” or “Just saw the Mask of Agamemnon at the National Museum!” I envy my great tan and outlook on life that I had at the time, where the biggest issues were where we would travel to next or how to get my jeans to fit down as easily into my boots as the Athenian girls could. Now there are lists and deadlines, bills and budgets. I lament about “The Crisis”, this invisible entity that hadn’t affected our household until a year ago, when my husband joined the thousands of other Greeks who had lost their jobs. Our monthly income was cut in half, taxes rose and strikes became a weekly, rather than monthly occurrence. The job of budgeting which I had already loathed was now an unbearable task that always included cancelling trips and putting new purchases on hold. “The Crisis” took on the form of a question mark hanging ominously over our future here, and I begin to wonder if “here” would even be in our future. “The Crisis” loomed over everywhere I went, from the supermarket, to the pharmacy and had even infiltrated the seemingly impenetrable homes of the wealthy Greek families that I worked for, who had already begun selling summer homes and cutting household staff. I feared that it would only be a matter of time before they cut their children’s English lessons and I would be out of a job as well. My first summer here without a trip to the Greek isles came and went. I spent those 10

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ten days of vacation wistfully reminiscing about the month-long trip I had taken to the Cyclades the previous year, with the hope of producing a guidebook of the archipelago. Those majestic sunrises I had photographed as I traced and recorded hiking routes leading to hidden, lagoon-like coves and sunbleached beaches now seemed light years away. I mulled through the sections of the book that I had pieced together and wondered when I’d be able to afford another trip in order to finish the job. As our economic situation continues to worsen, I start blaming “The Crisis” for everything, from my blown-out tire to my growing homesickness. I begin idealizing America as this long-forgotten paradise where everything is affordable and people actually use their turning signals. As each week without the prospect of work passes, even my husband starts making arrangements to relocate stateside. I complain to him that Greece had fooled me, with its warm weather, delicious food, and breath-taking scenery. Now “Greece” equaled waiting in line at the tax office, or stuck in traffic or adding up the monthly bills. “And you did none of these things before the crisis?,” my husband asks. “When was the last time we traveled somewhere or went out to eat?!” I shoot back, evading his question. I continue to recite a never- ending list of other things that the crisis has taken away from us; things which we could now only find in America. A typical clash of cultures and mindsets ensues, one the walls of our house have heard countless times. But I can’t shake my husband’s initial question. Had it all been sunshine and roses before “The Crisis” invaded our lives and ruined everything? I am convinced a trip to the U.S. over the holidays would clear up this dispute and declare me the winner. In reality, it only adds to my confusion. Instead of sympathizing with the fact that I’m not pursuing my dream job or that my husband is unemployed, or one of the other items on my never-ending list of things that “The Crisis” had taken away from me, my family and friends persist on asking me whether I’m safe in Athens. Safe? Of course I was safe! That’s the last thing I have to worry about. But I can’t say the same for my hopes, dreams or aspirations. They scoff at my persistent moaning of my professional short-comings and bring the

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issue of safety back to the forefront. After all, they’ve seen footage of protest after protest and rioters clashing with police. My mother has the nerve to admit she feels relieved that I can no longer go off to the islands alone and write my book. I roll my eyes as she repeats, yet again, how unsafe it is for a young woman to be wandering around all alone in the middle of the Aegean. To prove her wrong, I contemplate telling her that some old fishermen had taken me out on their boat while I interviewed them and delivered me back on dry land in one piece, but wisely decide not to. They just don’t get it. Greece has always been safe. I admit to them that indeed, over the last few years, Greeks have had to catch up with the rest of western civilization and actually lock their doors at night, accompany their children to the playground, and take other precautions that were standard procedure here in the U.S. 30 years ago. I try to make my dismal job prospects the center of the conversation again, but they don’t seem as convinced as I am that my career dissatisfaction signifies the end of the world. Likewise, my friends brush off the anxiety I have over the fact that I’m still stuck in a job I don’t like. “Join the club!” they tell me, as they commiserate about their own professional status, as well as not being married or having a child, or moving out of our small town by the age limits they had set for those milestones to have been crossed. They too, are disillusioned about where they’d thought they’d be by now and where they are. I begin to wonder if “The Crisis” has made its way across the Atlantic and is even afflicting small towns in Iowa. I hear them groan about bills and payfreezes, endless to-do lists and 50-hour work weeks. Some even say they admire me for having the courage to move away and do a poor job of hiding their disappointment when I tell them that it isn’t as great as it sounds. Squeals of delight follow when I divulge that my husband and I may move back, though I find myself smiling half-heartedly as I answer another round of questions surrounding the logistics of our prospective relocation. A blizzard and sub-zero temperatures remind me all too quickly about what had made me move to Greece in the first place. Over the phone, my husband tells me it’s a sunny 55 degrees in Athens and that he’s jealous that I’ll be enjoying a white Christmas. I


complain that here, cucumbers are $2.50 EACH and that I’m having withdraws from sunlight and my daily Greek coffee. As I enter the final week of my vacation in the U.S., I find myself counting down the days to my departure and proclaiming the advantages of living in Greece to anyone who will listen: The fresh food, the warm weather, the beautiful scenery. I express gratitude over the fact that I, as a woman can walk alone without looking over my shoulder, whether it be on the streets of Athens or along the dusty paths of Aegean islands. My parents and friends are left scratching their heads over whether or not I will, in fact, move back. So am I. I return back to sunny skies and a foggy outlook on the future. My husband and I question what it is that we truly want out of life and where we would most likely find it. I sip my Greek coffee and gaze out my kitchen window to the Parthenon, where I had once excitedly attended classes at CYA. I stare back down at my to-do list for the day. The new overshadows the old. Later, I sift through more photos and correspondence with friends over the years and appreciate just how magical that year studying abroad had been. All the new places I had seen, the new friendships I had made and the way that I myself had changed. But it all seems so far away now, as I hurry around the house gathering my things for work and mentally plan meals out for the next week. I look outside at the sunshine and realize that the things that brought me here in the first place and continued to keep me here afterwards, are still, in fact, here. “The Crisis” hadn’t actually taken them away. Greece hadn’t changed. I had. I stare back down at the tanned faces of my friends and I on the beach in Mykonos. We were a bunch of kids exploring and enjoying a new world. Now we are adults. We have grown up. Our situations have changed, but those amazing months we spent here together will forever be remembered as incredible. Greece is still incredible. I’m still that excited girl in the photo taken at the Acropolis. We’re both just adjusting to new situations. Sarah McGee lives in Greece with her husband and works as an English teacher and freelance writer.



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CYA STUDENT FEATURED AT HER INSTITUTION, SOUTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY (continued from page 5) out of my short time in Greece. We spent less than five days in the classroom, traveling throughout Greece for the rest of the time. We had apartments in Athens that were about a ten minute walk from Syntagma Square, but almost three of the four weeks were spent on the road. “While traveling, we had a guide with us who taught us some modern Greek and was in charge of all the logistical aspects of our journeys. Our trips always went smoothly thanks to the intensive planning that CYA had done in creating our itineraries across Crete and the Peloponnese. An average day would start with a free breakfast at 7 a.m. at whatever hotel we were staying at. The accommodations booked by CYA tended to be in scenic villages that were a pleasant change from the highly urban life in Athens. We then boarded our bus, visiting 2-3 ancient sites before stopping for lunch. We always had free admission into sites and, in some cases, were able to go into areas closed to the general public. This on-site learning was what I found to be the most rewarding aspect of the course. Instead of looking at a textbook picture for examples of Mycenaean versus Minoan architecture, I was able to judge for myself, in person, the differences and similarities. Being on site, everything I learned was more accessible and memorable. Our professor continually gave us thought provoking questions to consider as we explored a site and often had us give him an analysis of the site before he started lecturing. Even months after returning home, I still clearly recall the dozens of sites we saw - this would definitely not have been the case if I had been stuck with just a textbook and slide show! Additionally, we were instructed on Greek art, from the Archaic to Classical periods, which I was not expecting. It was a pleasant surprise, especially since we examined all the pieces of art we discussed at museums. Even though our days were rough in the amount of ground we covered, we still had most nights off – and the occasional daytime stop at the beach – to give us plenty of rest and relaxation.

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“I always felt safe and welcome in Greece, whether out shopping in Athens or walking with friends around the villages we stayed in. When I initially decided to go to Greece, my parents and other family members had the initial concern about my safety due to all the bad press Greece has been receiving. However, I experienced nothing unusual or dangerous or even remotely uncomfortable. The Greek people overall were incredibly welcoming. We did not spend a lot of time in Athens - we were mainly in more rural areas - but regardless, I always felt safe. “After traveling constantly with my class, which had a total of sixteen people, I became incredibly good friends with a majority of them. While I was the only Texan, there were several Classics majors as well as Art History and Archaeology students who added depth and unique perspectives to the class discussions we had. My trip not only drastically improved my understanding and knowledge of ancient Greek civilization but also allowed me to experience modern Greece as I traveled across its stunning landscape. My month there flew by, and I returned home missing Greece more than I thought I would. This trip truly deepened my love and appreciation for classical studies, making me proud to be a Classics major.” Jenna graduated summa cum laude from Southwestern on May 11th with a B.A. in Classics and a B.S. in Biology (with honors)! She is going to Princeton this fall to pursue a PhD in molecular biology.

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MUSINGS ON A RECENT TRIP TO ATHENS (continued from page 4) United States. From 1969-1975, I taught English to Greek adults at the HellenicAmerican Union (HAU), where my CYA classes had been held. I returned to Greece from 1983-1988 as a journalist, working as a reporter for United Press International in 1983-1984 and for Greece’s national news agency, the Athens News Agency, from 19841988. Following my return to the States in 1988, I worked as an editor and writer for the Speros Basil Vryonis Center for the Study of Hellenism in Sacramento, California, for 5 years, and for the Western Policy Center in Washington, DC focusing on Greece, Turkey, Cyprus, and the Balkans for 7 years. During my October trip to Greece, CYA President Alexis Phylactopoulos graciously gave me a tour of the present CYA headquarters, which I had not seen before. I was delighted to see the expansive facility in such a beautiful location, with its computer lab, library, restaurant, and classrooms. In 19681969, the 35 students enrolled that year lived close to the old headquarters at Deinokratous 26 on Lycavittos. At that time, the average price for dinner in a taverna was 50 drachmas, or about $1.70 (30 drachmas to a dollar), and this included a carafe of the house wine! But the fact that the average Greek salary during that period was $100-$150 per month puts the amount of the dinner tab into perspective. When I returned to the States after my trip, many people asked me what my impressions were of Athenian life, given the fact that the Greek unemployment rate was 25 percent and demonstrations in the capital were leaving people outside of the country with the impression that it was dangerous to go to Athens. While I was living in Athens in the 1980s, there were numerous demonstrations under Prime Minister Andreas Papandreou’s premiership. They were primarily confined to Syntagma Square where the Parliament building is located, as they are now. I often tell people that the situation is analogous to the atmosphere in Washington, DC, when demonstrations accompanying the annual meetings at the International Monetary Fund (IMF), which can involve arrests by the police, are confined to the area around the 12

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IMF headquarters and do not cause problems in the rest of the city. In October, the day after I arrived in Athens, German Chancellor Angela Merkel arrived for talks with Greek Prime Minister Antonis Samaras. I walked to Syntagma Square to observe the demonstration that was taking place there. As I approached the square, I saw that an enterprising vendor had placed a large grill at the edge of the crowd in the middle of the street that had been blocked off, and was doing a very good business selling souvlaki (shish kebab) to those taking part in what was a peaceful demonstration. Athenians were sitting on office building door stoops eating souvlaki and watching the protestors. As I took extensive walks around the city, the cafes and restaurants were bustling, and the city was very pleasant to be in. To someone spending a few days in the city, the economic situation in the country would not appear to be as dire as the facts indicate that it is. As I continue to live in Washington, DC, where I have been for the last 18 years, one of the ways that the Greek thread continues through my life is my attendance at the monthly showing of a Greek film at the historic Avalon Theater, in collaboration with the Greek Embassy and the Greek Film Center. In early February 2013, I went to a screening of the Greek film “Raw Materials (Proti Yli),” a 2011 documentary directed by Christos Karakepelis. It is about immigrants in Athens who subsist by collecting discarded metal objects from the streets, such as old refrigerators, box springs, and miscellaneous metal scraps, and selling them at the scrap metal yards operated by the iron works industry of Greece (the third-largest industry in the country). They barely eke out a living for their families, many of whom live in an improvised shantytown not far from the Acropolis. They used no megaphones, often making their rounds to check dumpsters late at night. Watching the film, I wondered how these scrap collectors compared to the paliatzis of the song I learned 45 years ago. It appears that the paliatzis remains part of a traditional form of retail commerce in the city through the repair and re-sale of items such as used furniture, while the immigrant metal scrap collector is a new element that is reflective of the large influx of immigrants into Greece in recent years who are trying to survive in a

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very poor economy. There has always been a certain poignancy to the call of the paliatzis, and this documentary and the questions it raised only served to enhance that poignancy for me so soon after hearing that call once again. Susan Spencer lives in Washington, D.C. spencersm20@gmail.com.

A RITE OF PASSAGE (continued from page 4) appreciate the friendliness shown towards (obviously lost) strangers, which is personified in all Greeks. I was hooked. From those very first days with every new experience, be it the street market on Xenocratous; the visit to the baker on Deinocratous; the grocer Barba Yiannis; the daily stop at the kiosk to make a local telephone call or simply dining at a tavern, I understood the importance not only of communication in a foreign tongue, but equally the need for flexibility, creativity and patience. It was all new, and it was my job to learn to ‘fit in’ – and fast! Unlike today, where one’s links to parents, friends and the familiar world left behind are only an email or a cell phone call away, in 1966 if one felt home-sick or needed some ‘bucking up’, one’s only recourse was snail mail, telex or very expensive telephone calls. If I wanted a crash course in growing up and learning to be self-reliant, here it was writ large. With the contents of my wallet getting quickly depleted, it became quickly evident to me in that first summer that I needed to earn some money. So with the brash confidence of youth, I walked down to the Hilton


Hotel where – much to my amazement - they hired me. My job was in the ‘back office’ where I was to re-write all their standard letters to sound more ‘American’, and then to work in the reservation department typing hundreds of letters on their new IBM Selectric typewriter. The typewriter was not only electric and new, but it used ‘my’ alphabet, so that at 65 wpm I looked like a downright secretarial speed-demon to the manager who hired me. But the stroke of pure luck was when, one evening, I stopped off at a bar for an ouzo and met an American publisher. He was creating a new travel book for young people called “Where the Fun is In Europe”, and by the end of my ouzo had promised me the outrageous sum of $30.00 for every island I could visit and write up. My job was to find the beaches, clubs, restaurants and hotels where students could have fun for very little money. From then on, whenever I wasn’t needed at the Hilton, I would go to Pireaus, jump onto a ferry and head out to another chain of islands, where for $1.00 per night one could stay in someone’s home and explore. I hopped from island to island throughout that first summer, exploring over twenty islands, writing up my findings and sending them back to New York. By the subsequent summer the book was out and I was a published writer, but more importantly, I had learned self-reliance and the pure joy of exploring new places. Once school started in September, there began a whole new set of challenges – mainly academic. The school was still new and much of the current-day infrastructure was lacking, but we students – all 20 of us – were up for the experience. We may have lacked a library, or our own classrooms, or a real dining hall, but in our rented classrooms at the Hellenic American Union, Katie Koumarianou tried to din modern Greek into our dense heads; Frances Niederer tried to give us some art appreciation; Peter Greene tried to teach us literature; and other faculty, some from America and some from Athens, taught us skillfully about all topics Greek. For me the highlights of each semester were always the ‘road trips’ with all the students, teachers, and Mr. & Mrs. Phyl, piling into a bus for the adventure. I can still recall the wonderful outdoor luncheon we all shared in Arachova – fresh lamb on the spit and everyone relaxing on the grass; or the

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over-night sail to Crete on a relatively seaworthy ship to visit the sites. These trips allowed us to explore the country from one end to the other, to learn our history, and as importantly to share our lives with each other and the strangers we met along the way in the villages and towns. The only thing that marred our perfect year was the military coup which occurred in April 1967. From one day to the next our lives changed. At first it was being confined to our apartments, then the curfews, and then it was the spate of rules – for us the most inane being the dictate that one could no longer break plates at the feet of dancers in the tavernas. But the saddest experience was to see the change in the Greek spirit. In Athens, at that time, there had been a vast array of daily newspapers, each with its own slant, and people would gather in the local kafeneion to argue vociferously with their neighbor about any and all topics. And because TV’s were considered an expensive luxury, for entertainment, people would pull a chair up outside the local appliance store where the owner would graciously turn a TV towards the street and show the important soccer matches through the open window of the shop. Suddenly overnight all this changed. TV programming became more proscribed, and the variety of newspapers was significantly reduced. As a result people seemed to stay closer to home, and tended to be quieter - cautious, perhaps afraid of being over-heard as they discussed the politics of the day. The spirit of a culture seemed to be crushed. Thanks to the care and attention given to us by the Phyls and our teachers, we students, as Americans, felt safe and somewhat immune to the threats around us. But things had been altered, and not for the better. Despite this fairly disconcerting ending to our academic year, I could proudly say that by June of 1967, I had learned enough of the language, the alphabet, the history and the music, to survive effectively. I could negotiate and bargain in the markets, I could read any Greek map thrown in front of me; drive anywhere; and could sing the songs of Nana Mouskouri. But most importantly I had been transformed into a true philhellene. It is now 45 years later, and I have returned to Greece over a dozen times with friends and family – for whom I declare it to be a rite of passage. My Greek may be rusty,

.. but it gets me around; the lessons I learned .. still allow me to act as local guide; my iPhone .. has a permanent Greek playlist; and my .. home-made moussaka is downright wicked. .. In 2012 I returned to Greece not once but .. .. twice. In early summer, I took the newest .. philhellene in our family, my granddaughter, .. for a three week trip to visit Greece, where .. we enjoyed the heights of beauty at Mt. .. Olympus and the depth of despair of Oedi.. pus Rex at Epidaurus. She, at fifteen is al.. ready ahead of where I was on my first visit, .. having learned the myths, the alphabet, and .. the rudiments of the language. .. During my second trip in fall, with my .. husband Bob, we had the opportunity to stay .. at a CYA apartment and to visit CYA in its .. .. new and much-enhanced form. We visited .. with the staff and faculty and had a chance .. to catch up with Mr. Phyl. What a difference! .. A student population over 150, a real library, .. a real cafeteria, a whole building dedicated to .. classrooms and a truly 21st century .. spirit. This time the challenges for the school .. come not from the result of a military coup, .. but from an economic upheaval. But, as in .. the past, I will assume ‘this too shall pass’. .. And, if I’m very lucky, my granddaughter will .. become the next family CYA graduate, in the .. .. class of 2016…. Just fifty years later. .. Beatrice (Meyer) Ring, is a graduate of the .. University of Michigan in English Literature. .. During a 30 year career at IBM she worked in .. the software and services division, retiring as a .. vice president before starting her own consulting .. firm. As a full-time retiree now living in north.. ern Vermont, she spends a minimum of six .. months a year exploring the world with her .. husband, Robert. .. .. .. CYA APARTMENTS .. .. AVAILABLE .. CYA ALUMNI and friends planning to .. revisit Athens during the summer .. months, please keep in mind that .. CYA may have apartments available for .. rent. CYA student apartments are .. .. conveniently located in the Pangrati .. neighborhood of Athens and provide a .. less expensive option to hotel accommo.. dations. For availability and rates please .. send a request to programs@dikemes. .. edu.gr. .. .. .. 13


RECIPE TOMATOKEFTEDES (TOMATO FRITTERS) A Santorini specialty

1 1/2 lbs. tomatoes, grated or finely chopped, very well drained 3 spring onions, white and tender green parts, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. fresh parsley, finely chopped 2 Tbsp. fresh spearmint, finely chopped A pinch of oregano A pinch of sugar Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 ¼ – 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour, as needed 1 tsp. baking powder Olive oil or vegetable oil for frying In a large bowl, mix together the tomatoes, spring onions, herbs, salt and pepper. Combine the 1 cup flour and the baking powder and add it to the tomatoes a little at a time, mixing well. Add flour if necessary until the mixture has the consistency of a thick batter. Heat 1 ½ inches of oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is very hot, drop a tablespoon of the batter at a time into the skillet and fry the tomato fritters on both sides until golden. Remove and place them on kitchen paper to absorb the extra olive oil. Serve hot. Enjoy!

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BATTLING PRECONCEPTIONS WITH REALITY IN GREECE (continued from page 5) international public diplomacy initiative Repower Greece “has been launched to redefine Greece, and reclaim our country’s credibility, based not on the failures or the interests of the few, but rather on the skills, talents and achievements of the many”, as states the founder, Alexandros Costopoulos. The campaign lifts up stories of businesses working to establish more Greek exports like Gaia or Wines of Crete, eco-friendly hotels like Eumelia and Costa Navarino, projects like Desmos or The Prism GR2011, stories of the Greek people who are moving forward and working together, who constitute a side of Greece that will effectively confront misperceptions within the international community while, at the same time, revitalizing the Greek morale. I believe it is only right to show that the media attention should not be focused purely on the politicians of Greece. The stories of positive success endorsed by Repower Greece are equally, if not more, important for the world and other Greeks to hear. This country does have positive things happening, and in a situation like the crisis it is currently going through, the stories are important in the hope that they give for the Greek people, the inspiration to take action and improve their own lives, and the proof of Greek success for the international community. They should not be overshadowed and forgotten as if they do not matter. No country is run just by its politicians. There are many other people who are doing great things in the daily happenings of Greece, and they deserve to have their stories told as well. What is being shown of Greece in the media today is not accurate to how daily life is. As an American living in Athens today who has noticed a different atmosphere than the one I was told to be aware of, I think it is important to show just how beautiful life in Greece still is. I believe that the people of the world should know the whole story, not just what a few choose to show.



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A DIFFERENT KIND OF FIELD TRIP

Many will happily recognize this face. It’s the face of CYA’s own Alex Costas (Fall ’00), fondly known as “Aleko.” Those who know him would likely recall, among other things, his stellar staff support on field trips. Here Aleko is pictured in his military fatigues at the Avlona military training base where, as a newly made Greek citizen, he recently began his three months of compulsory service. Kalos politis, Aleko!

VOLUNTEER! CYA IS ALWAYS LOOKING FOR HELP If you are interested in recruiting students at a university near you or hosting an alumni event, please contact us at info@cyathens.org.

Help save the environment, send us your e-mail address.

ddd


ATHENS MARATHON CYA students were a part of history as the Athens Classic Marathon celebrated a special 30-year milestone! While one group of CYA students heroically followed in the ancient footsteps of Pheidippides by running from Marathon to Athens, another crew of CYAers bravely dogged flying cups by volunteering at a drinks station along the route.

CYA Marathoners, Amber Hogan and Nate Bennett, had many stories to share after facing every step of the 42K challenge together.

No autographs, please! Nate Bennett waved to fellow CYA student fans.

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From the early morning, a dedicated group of CYA volunteers, including, (l to r) Morgan Ward, Mary Neville and Megan Whitacre, manned a drinks stand along the marathon route.

First-time marathoners, Nate Bennett and Amber Hogan, had every right to smile after an impressive 4:47:48 finish!

Amber Hogan and Nate Bennett congratulate each other and we congratulate them for their tremendous accomplishment!

CYA volunteer, Dylan Angell, pictured with the recycled remains of drinks for over 7,000 runners!

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CYA RECEPTION AT THE AIA/APA ANNUAL JOINT MEETING Our annual reception at the AIA/APA joint meeting was held in January 2013 in Seattle, Washington. We enjoyed catching up with alumni and friends of the program and look forward to next year’s reception in Chicago!

Cathleen Asch Goss ’71AB, Laetitia La Follette ’75AB, Stephen Koob ’71A

Nicholas Thorne, Joseph Tipton ’99B, Alan Shapiro ’69AB

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Kelly Collins ’98A, Erica Huffman ’93B, Mimika Kriga

Ephraim Lytle ’95B, Jessica Paga ’04B, Tim Brelinski, Liz Vitale, Zoe Kontes ’95AB


Justin Gottlieb ’98B, Mary Dabney ’75AB, Anne Feltovich ’02B, Barbara Barletta

David Schneller ’10B, Melissa Deokaran ’10A, Hannah Ringheim ’11B, David Assaf ’09B

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Brenden Burke ’89B, Tina Ross ’03 summer, Sam Holzman ’10B

Bill Kahlenberg, Ted Graham ’03B

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SPRING 2013 ALUMNI NOTES Please Note: Both fall semester and spring . . CLASS OF ’08 semester alumni are listed as part of the class . of the full academic year (e.g., those who attended in the fall of 1990 or spring of 1991 both belong to the class of ’91). Summer students are listed by the year they attended. If you are interested in becoming a class agent, contact us at: alumni@cyathens.org.

CLASS OF ’12 Still in need of a class agent

CLASS OF ’11 Class Agent: Hannah Ringheim hlringheim@gmail.com Maxwell Ade (A) was recently reunited with Matthew Wilk (’10A) and they’re now roommates.

CLASS OF ’10 Class Agents: ’10A Will Eberle, ’10B Andreas Glimenakis & ’10B Ethan Baron will.eberle13@gmail.com glimenakis.andreas@gmail.com Ethanrbaron@gmail.com Alexandra DeBlock (B) writes, “I completed my Master’s degree in International Politics and am currently on a Fulbright grant, living in Khon Kaen, Thailand.”

CLASS OF ’09 Class Agent: Emily Radkowski radkowski201@duq.edu Amanda Balz (B) writes, “I moved to Maryland after I graduated from grad school, Teachers College at Columbia University. I'm currently working as a teacher for the Deaf and Hard of Hearing for Baltimore County Public Schools.” Jane Wolfe (summer) writes, “After following in the footsteps of St. Paul on my CYA program this summer – my life forever changed. At that moment, I decided to major in Religious Studies at Tulane University. When it came time to choose a Master’s program, Harvard University piqued my interest. Here I am – a full-time student at Harvard and it all started with my summer trip to CYA. Thanks for the memories and this beautiful insight to Paul’s world.” 18

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Class Agents: ’08A Aubrie Boersen, ’08A Amy Hoeg & ’08B Terence O’Neill aubrie.boersen@gmail.com amy.hoeg@gmail.com terence.oneill23@gmail.com

CLASS OF ’07 Class Agent: Catherine (Hibben) Silvo hsilvo@gmail.com

CLASS OF ’06 Class Agent: ’06A Erin Meyers & ’06B Bernadette Bolan erin12m@gmail.com bernsb@gmail.com

CLASS OF ’05 Class Agent: Lucianna Ravasio lucianna.ravasio@gmail.com

CLASS OF ’04 Still in need of a class agent

CLASS OF ’03 Class Agent: Adam Fletcher adamfletcher@yahoo.com

CLASS OF ’02 Still in need of a class agent Nitzia Embiricos Logothetis (AB) writes, “George and I are so proud to announce the birth of John-Michael’s little brother, our son Phillip Constantine Logothetis! Phillip was born November 22, 2012 at 1:18 pm, he weighed 7 lbs. and 8 oz. and was 52 cm long.”

CLASS OF ’01 Still in need of a class agent

CLASS OF ’00 Still in need of a class agent Athanasia Korovilas Charonis (B) writes, “I am married to Angelo Charonis and have one son, Giannis Charonis (almost 3 years old). I am currently a corporate attorney working for Google Inc. and live in San Carlos, CA.”

.. .. CLASS OF ’99 .. Class Agent: Ryan Tipps .. ryan.tipps@d3sports.com .. .. Charlie Heydt (AB) writes, “My wife, Kirsten .. Scoles, and I were married on October 5th, .. 2012 in Manhattan. The below photo was .. taken at the reception and includes the fol.. lowing Alumni: From left to right: Tim .. Cummings (’02B), Michael Heydt (’02B), .. Charlie Heydt (’99AB), my mother – .. Barbara Metcalf (’74AB), Shaw Bowman .. (’99B), Lucie Kinsolving (’74AB), my uncle .. – Gilbert Metcalf (’74B), Elpida Anthan .. (’99AB) and Anita Rau (’99AB). Quite a .. group! We had a blast! .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Emina Kwok (B) writes, “Paul Timmer .. (’99A) and I are doing well. Our 3-year old, .. Michael, started preschool in August and .. while we are sad that our baby has grown up .. so soon, I am grateful for the couple of hours .. of peace and quiet in the morning. More so .. since the birth of our twin daughters, Mirai .. and Katherine, on Oct 19. Despite arriving .. four weeks early, the girls and I were able to .. .. leave the hospital together and they continue .. to do well. We hope to take them to Athens .. one day to show them where Mommy and .. Daddy met.” .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. CLASS OF ’98 .. Class Agent: ’98A Maro Sevastopoulos .. maro_rose@yahoo.com .. .. Class Agent: ’98B Jocelyn DeLaruelle .. Martindale JMartindale@pressganey.com .. .. ..


Sarah Scully (A) writes, “I’m working at Bloomberg Television in NYC. I listen to music and see plays and art in my free time. I feel so fortunate to have had that extraordinary CYA experience – class on the Acropolis, hiking the Samarian Gorge, Nanno Marinatos explaining Akrotiri! It made an impression…” Amanda Stoeckl Burlew (B) writes, “I got married to Evan Burlew on October 18, 2008 and we welcomed twins, William and Elizabeth, on December 12, 2009. After living in Northern Virginia for 11 years, I relocated with my family back to the Midwest in August of 2010 to be closer to family.”

CLASS OF ’97 Class Agent: Steve Maselunas smaselunas@charter.net

CLASS OF ’96 Class Agent: Vasilios Roussos Vasilios@gmail.com

CLASS OF ’95 Class Agent: Laura Ament Taylor tidndutch@bigpond.com

CLASS OF ’94 Class Agent: Susannah Snowden Susannah_snowden@hotmail.com

CLASS OF ’93 Class Agent: Joel Green jgreen12@earthlink.net

CLASS OF ’92 Class Agent: Kelly McCutcheon Adams kamcc71@yahoo.com Katie Miller writes, “Hi to all. A little update for you about what I’ve been up to. Hard to believe that Bob’s been gone 4 years, but time really does zip by. Anyway, I decided to downsize and have bought a lovely three bedroom ranch - I moved just 6 miles. I did all the packing and moving of small stuff which kept me busy all summer. I finally had the movers in for the big stuff during the last week of August. The hardest part of the move for me was Bob’s library. The kids all came during the summer and took things that I

.. knew I wasn’t moving and that really helped. .. Now I need just the right person to buy it. .. Then if Uncle Sam doesn’t take too much of .. it away from me, I’d like to do some traveling .. and you know Athens is high on my priority .. list. May 2013 be a good year for all of us.” .. .. .. CLASS OF ’91 .. Class Agent: Daphne Pezaris Maramaldi .. dmaramal@fas.harvard.edu .. .. Greg Bibas (AB), his wife, Ariane, and their .. daughter Lilah (3), welcomed Alexander .. Constantine Bibas into their family in .. November. They plan to baptize him in .. Greece this coming summer. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. CLASS OF ’90 .. .. Class Agent: Steve Gratwick .. steve.gratwick@gmail.com .. Class agent, Steve Gratwick (AB), worked .. very hard to touch base with as many of his .. classmates as possible. He writes, “I am still .. in LA and hoping for a good turnout for next .. fall’s Southern California CYA reunion event. .. I live in Hollywood, practice social work at .. the L.A. Gay & Lesbian Center and would .. love to see anyone from our class. Here are .. some more people we’re looking for: Joe .. .. Zebrak, Christy Rossomondo, Kim Murdagh .. and Mark Thomas. Please write!” .. Don Byrne (AB) is chicken farming in North .. Carolina and teaching Latin in high school. .. He and his wife live on their farm and have a .. baby. .. .. Heather Quirk Courts (AB) is also teaching, .. and living in Athens with her husband and .. three kids. She says downtown Athens often .. has demonstrations, but that in general, the .. situation is always overblown by foreign .. media. She is fine and hopes we all come .. back soon for a reunion, and to help out .. tourism. Great ideas! .. .. .. ..

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Chrysanthe Gussis (A) just had a baby – Elise Demetra Rosson! Congrats to the whole family and she’s still in the Bay Area as is Adam Fuchs (AB), and they see each other often. Alina Larson (AB) is in New York with her family, and continues to travel as much as many flight attendants. Nice. Heather Kelly (A) and Leslie Kramer (AB) are in the city as well. New York is definitely better for it. Nick Moschovakis (B) is in the DC area with his wife and family and also travels frequently. He’d love to see anyone from our class. James David Parker (AB) is in his 18th year of teaching Latin and Greek, and is now at Carnegie Vanguard High School in Houston. He’ll be back in Greece this summer from June-August, so be sure to get in touch with him if you’re there as well.

CLASS OF ’89 Class Agent: Joe Garnjobst joseph.garnjobst@hillsdale.edu

CLASS OF ’88 Still in need of a class agent

CLASS OF ’87 Class Agent: Tina Sorokie tsorokie@yahoo.com

CLASS OF ’86 Still in need of a class agent

CLASS OF ’85 Still in need of a class agent

CLASS OF ’84 Still in need of a class agent Todd Dillon (A) writes, “I’ve moved to Excelsior, MN. I’m a Senior Consultant with Cejka Search. My wife, Vicki, is District Leader with JC Penney for the Minneapolis market. We have a 16 year old son, Brock.”

CLASS OF ’83 Still in need of a class agent

CLASS OF ’82 Still in need of a class agent 19


CLASS OF ’81 Co-Class Agents: Kimberle Gray & Scott Dreher Kimberle_g@yahoo.com scott@dreherlawfirm.com

CLASS OF ’80 Class Agent: Valentine Talland vtalland@mac.com Lisa De Rensis (AB) writes, “I live in Sunnyside, Queens, NY. I have been working with high school students since the fall of 2009 (after being down-sized during the economic disaster!). I really enjoy it. I represent a college and go into high schools to do recruitment and talk about careers, do workshops around life skills. It’s very rewarding. I also have been doing my art – check out my website at www.derensis.com. I’d love to hear from friends… feel free to write or come visit.”

CLASS OF ’79 Class Agent: Anastasia Sarantos Sarantosa@aol.com

CLASS OF ’78 Class Agent: Bill Wharton wdwharton@gmail.com

CLASS OF ‘77 Class Agent: Helen Tangires htangires@verizon.net

CLASS OF ’76 Class Agent: Susan Sampliner ssampliner@aol.com

CLASS OF ’75 Class Agent: Rick Neville rickneville@comcast.net

CLASS OF ’74 Class Agent: Ann Marie Taliercio herelocal150@igc.org

CLASS OF ’73 Class Agent: Rick Vogel Vogel197@comcast.net

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CLASS OF ’72 Class Agent: Mary Clark e-mail or other contact?

CLASS OF ’71 Class Agent: Steven Schultz sgsmozart@gmail.com

CLASS OF ’70 Class Agent: J. Mara DelliPriscoli jmara@travelearning.com Frederica Hermansen Graham (AB) writes, “I have retired from Waldorf teaching but am teaching French part-time to adults in Vermont, and love it. I was in Greece in 2009 and can't wait to go back. Right now, I have two new granddaughters aged 1 and 7 weeks (one is my son’s and one my daughter’s) who keep me traveling, since my son is married to a lovely young woman from the Republic of Georgia and my daughter’s husband is Dutch; they live in The Hague. My youngest son has moved to Portland, OR, putting them all effectively out of reach!”

CLASS OF ’69 Co-Class Agents: Hetty Jardine & Kelly Cullins hetty.jardine@gmail.com tkcullins@gmail.com

CLASS OF ’68 Class Agent: Kip Hughes kip1290@aol.com

CLASS OF ’67 Class Agent: Susan Blake ssblake68@gmail.com Susan Blake (AB) writes, “I spent a day with Wendy White (AB) in January 2013 while Wendy was in San Francisco staying with her brother, Stephen, whom many of our classmates met when he visited Athens in the spring of 1967. Wendy and I saw each other twice in Rome in April 2011, and have plans for another visit soon. While at my house, Wendy and I Skype’d with Lee Sophocles Brownson (AB), whom Wendy had recently visited.”

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CLASS OF ’66 Class Agent: Jennie Tucker jtucker@oregonwireless.net

CLASS OF ’65 Class Agent: Peter Allen pallen@ric.edu

CLASS OF ’64 Still in need of a class agent

CLASS OF ’63 Still in need of a class agent

TO REQUEST A TRANSCRIPT To request a transcript(s), please e-mail us at info@cyathens.org with “transcript(s)” in the subject line. Please include the number of transcripts you would like and each address to which they should be sent. Transcripts are $5.00 each. Please send a check made out to: COLLEGE YEAR IN ATHENS, P.O. Box 390890, Cambridge, MA 02139-0010 Transcripts will not be mailed out until payment has been received. Because transcripts are issued in our Athens Office and then mailed to our North American Office, please allow 3 weeks from the time you request the transcript(s) for it to reach its final destination. For “express delivery” between Greece and Cambridge, please add $35.00 to the amount due. Express delivery usually takes one week instead of 3. Please include any labels or transcript request forms that need to be attached to the transcript(s) with your check.


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