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SPRING

—2012—

TREND REPORT

A SPECIAL ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT


OH, HELLO

COVER PHOTOS FROM L TO R: BRIONI, RICHARD CHAI, CANALI, CANALI.

Welcome to our official Spring 2012 trend report. Let’s be clear about something right out of the gate: No one is suggesting you be the sort of guy who bows down to the fashion idols, accruing a sad collection of on-trend hats, over-the-top bow-ties, and creepily tight shorts. But that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t embrace the fact that with every new season comes the opportunity to try out a fresh look or three—to, say, opt for some patterned pants, slip on a shoe in an unlikely color, or swap out your standard blazer for one with a little less polish. FOR FUTURE ISSUES OF THE DETAILS COLLECTIONS, GO TO DETAILSINSIDER.COM/COLLECTIONS

So here’s our guide to how to do it right, riffing on the best stuff we spotted on runways last fall.

Godspeed, THE DE TAILS CRE ATIVE SERVICES TE AM


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DESIGNER FORECAST 05

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OVADIA & SONS

BILLY REID

READ WALL

ROBERT GELLER

“Men’s fashion is turning the clock back, what’s old is new again. Men care about quality and finding things to fit their personal taste and style. For SS12, some things we’re really feeling are thin cotton knits in nautical stripes, worn in trousers and shorts, lightweight cotton shirts with military details and adding pops of color with accessories. The dress is comfortable but still elegant, classic but hip.”

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“This Spring we were influenced by a communal independent music scene that’s happening. Folks from LA, Nashville, Muscle Shoals, among other places, seem to be coming together to create new and interesting music, reminding us of Laurel Canyon circa 1970. Watching them mix tailored elements with Bohemia is something that struck me as new individualism.”

“I’m seeing interesting takes on classic patterns with subtle color palettes and, on the other side of the spectrum, some really in-your-face colors with a late 80’s, early 90’s vibe. I tend to see these trends through the lens of classic American staples, so I picture this spring’s trend as a street-meets-prep look. It’s like pitting the subtle intricacies of Proust against Hunter S. Thompson—it might get weird, but at least it’ll be entertaining.”

“Men’s fashion is at a real turning point. There is a desire for a new direction and I believe it is starting with the silhouette. Designers are looking to get away from the extremely skinny look and seeing where else they can take it. There is also a movement toward luxury, getting away from heritage and vintage. The customer is looking for highquality and inspired pieces.”


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SIMON SPURR

SHIPLEY & HALMOS

BESPOKEN

TIMO WEILAND

RICHARD CHAI

“The Spring 2012 season was very much about the evolution of the way men dress. As consumer knowledge peaks through the increase in social media platforms, there is much more focus on the level of quality men are expecting from designers. Men seem to be embracing traditions of the past, but expressing themselves in a modern way–blurring tradition with modernism and resulting in individualism.”

“We’re breaking the rule and wearing white jeans in the winter. Are you sure you still want our quote?”

“We’re seeing the return of men (and young men at that) appreciating fine craftsmanship and welltailored menswear. Tailoring has been great for us, whether it be in unstructured or structured garments. Guys seem to be investing more in their wardrobe.”

“The men’s market today is growing because the heightened fashion consciousness of the male consumer has pushed brands to expand on modern and exciting treatments of classic elements like tailoring. Male customers seem to be seeking a more dressed-up look: clean, modern cuts for suiting, knits, and outerwear. Overall, men have focused on the art of dressing by adding color, texture, and personality while continuing to appreciate luxe subtle details and quality.”

“Men’s fashion for Spring 2012 is about the individual. The idea of mixing the different sides of one’s character. Bold, electric colors and x-ray florals contrasted more traditional and classic patterns and materials.”

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NYC 888-943-9486


TREND—1

TONAL A khaki suit has probably made its way into your warm-weather wardrobe by now—or at

least it should have—but this season, it’s time to take the look one step further, upping the ante with accessories and underpinnings in the same color scheme (the add-ons: a just-left-of-camel button-down, dusty nubuck lace-ups, and, hell, even a pale woven belt). Of course, beige isn’t the only hue that deserves your attentions: Riskier guys with perpetual tans should also consider headto-toe white, and anyone can pull off blue top to bottom, especially when you find a way to work in everyman denim hues.

Marlon Gobel

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TREND—1

TONAL

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01— Band of Outsiders 02— Hugo Boss Take a pale blue suit out of prom territory by adding a silk tie and pocket square two shades darker. 03— Robert Geller 04— Zegna Try a layered look with multiple tones. The layers give it depth and this lighter color makes it perfect for the spring months.

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05— Ferragamo 06— Brioni A cream suit can be daunting, but it gets a whole lot easier to wear when you bring in dark accessories— rich brown leathers do really well here. 07— Ferragamo 08— Robert Geller 09— Canali

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TREND—2

THE CUFF

When it’s hot, you yearn to wear shorts, but the options can be straight-up depressing.

Cargos, jorts, and incarnations that look like they are somehow part of a suit—one that you want nowhere near your person—clutter the market. The solution comes in the form of this season’s rolledup take, which is about to define your weekend dressing. To nail it, go with a low-maintenance chino or even denim style that’s little roomy, and top it with a braided belt that delivers just a dash of polish.

Shipley & Halmos

Richard Chai


TREND—2

THE CUFF

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02—Hugo Boss Suddenly, white pants look a lot less highmaintenance with just a couple of rolls and a pair of desert boots. 03—Timo Weiland 04—Billy Reid 05—Band of Outsiders 06—Diesel

 Your shorts shouldn’t

be hiding your knees anymore. Cuff them so that they’re just grazing your kneecaps if at all. 07—Diesel

08—Richard Chai Take this opportunity to show off a bit of sock, and choose a pair that helps tie your whole outfit together. 09—Ovadia & Sons 10—Richard Chai 11—Timo Weiland

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TREND—3

UNSTRUCTURED

Sometimes the most classic of blazers can start to look a bit stiff as the temperature climbs— a little too summer-on-the-Cape for anyone who doesn’t own a copy of The Official Preppy Handbook. But, in an easy cotton or light linen, a just-rumpled jacket can really round out an outfit on those days that require layering or nights that still qualify as crisp. Don’t be afraid or color (especially warm oranges and rusts), and wear it with an untucked shirt and pants that are slightly cropped in that seasonably appropriate way.

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01—Canali 02—Tod’s Though you could wear it buttoned, work-shirt-style, this incarnation is best open with a henley underneath 03—Zegna An unstructured jacket makes for a great layering piece. The jacket has less body to it so when you throw a trench over it, you won’t look too bulky. 04—Billy Reid It’s like a DIY suit: Combine a rumpled blazer and chinos in the same color family, and you’re good to go. 05—Richard Chai

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BLOG STYLE FROM BLOGS YOU KNOW AND LOVE, TO BLOGS YOU NEED TO KNOW—HERE’S WHAT THE BLOGOSPHERE HAS TO SAY ABOUT THE SPRING FASHION SEASON.

GAWKER

THE DANDY PROJECT

THE SELVEDGE YARD

MEN’S THREADS

NAME:

NAME 

NAME 

NAME 

Brian Moylan

Jon Patrick

Izzy Tuason

Matt Repicky

URL

URL  

URL

URL  

gawker.com

theselvedgeyard.wordpress.com

thedandyproject.com

mensthreads.blogspot.com

FAVORITE DESIGNER:

FAVORITE DESIGNER 

FAVORITE DESIGNER 

FAVORITE DESIGNER 

Thom Browne

Paul Smith is the menswear master of the little details that allow you to have fun with your style while looking handsome as hell.

Martin Margiela

CURRENTLY WEARING:

Black Fleece pink Oxford, Club Monaco V neck sweater, UNIQLO jeans, and John Fluevog wingtips. STYLE IS:

Garishly preppy OVERRATED:

Printed pants. No one likes a busy bottom. UNDERRATED:

Me in a Simon Spurr suit (psst, Simon, I’m sample size)

CURRENTLY WEARING 

Clothes that fit properly. Fit is King. Get your damn pants off the ground, and donate that shirt to The Biggest Loser. J.Hilburn custom shirts and tailored clothing made from Italian fabrics.

CURRENTLY WEARING 

Have you ever worn a Marlon Gobel hand-painted blazer? Do it and he’ll be your favorite designer too.

My Margiela power-shoulder overcoat, Thom Browne cashmere cardigan, last night’s slouchy white T-shirt, Tim Hamilton scarf, black UNIQLO jeans, and -bedazzled Number (N)ine creepers

Bright red Docker’s Alpha khakis (not afraid of color!) and a Black Fleece cardigan (not afraid of some Thom Browne!).

STYLE IS 

STYLE IS 

Poetry in clothing

My style is colorfully classic. I’ve never met a print I didn’t like.

CURRENTLY WEARING 

STYLE IS  

OVERRATED 

earned as you grow comfortable in your own skin and figure out what works best for your personality, looks and body type. Then do it with confidence. Don’t let some sissy-ass menswear blogger, or worse, your wife, tell you how to dress. Own it. You wear the pants, pal.

Rules

OVERRATED 

UNDERRATED 

Socks. I’ve done bare ankles all winter and won’t stop now.

A skilled and honest tailor who can make your Topman suit look like Dior by Hedi Slimane, and who will tell you to stop when you’re having it nipped a little too tight.

Bold color: I’m on a mad search for a vintage Lilly Pulitzer blazer. It’s all about a little kick to my look.

UNDERRATED 

OVERRATED 

Cropped suiting and bow ties. Do you really want your ass peeking out of your suit like a female flight attendant? And a bow tie screams— please don’t take me seriously. UNDERRATED 

a good tailor, a great ass and a shoe shine

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DIE, WORKWEAR!

THE MODERN DANDY

MADE TO MEASURE NY

GRUNGY GENTLEMAN

NAME 

NAME 

NAME 

NAME 

Derek Guy

Richard Jock Davis

Dennis Cahlo

Jace Lipstein

URL  

URL  

URL  

URL  

dieworkwear.com

themoderndandy.com

madetomeasureny.com

grungygentleman.com

FAVORITE DESIGNE 

FAVORITE DESIGNER 

FAVORITE DESIGNER 

FAVORITE DESIGNER 

Ralph Lauren

Alan Flusser

Too many to list. At Pitti Uomo 81, Brunello Cucinelli, Isaia, and Lubiam stole the show.

STYLE IS  

I am not a fan of the term “favorite” when discussing fashion. It implies, an infallible loyalty to a particular designer or brand. I don’t believe an objective critic should ever have a favorite… but at this current moment I am obsessing over Ports 1961 and Brioni.

the man himself expressed without language

CURRENTLY WEARING 

CURRENTLY WEARING 

oak bark tanned CVS cloth tape, worn with a lot of nihilism (next level sprezzatura)

OVERRATED  

corduroy lingerie UNDERRATED  

I’m afraid I can’t discuss that at this time.

shoes: Savile Row vintage bespoke wingtips; jeans: Marc By Marc; shirt: UNIQLO; cardigan: UNIQLO; bow tie: Social Primer for Brooks Brothers; watch: vintage 24-hour 1960s Soviet Union military issue; wood bead bracelet

CURRENTLY WEARING 

Navy cotton pajamas, cream linen robe with turn back cuffs and navy piping, black formal slippers from H&M, my favorite black rim glasses, and a navy coffee mug (coordinating with your morning beverage holder is very important).

CURRENTLY WEARING 

Well I just got off a plane… so rocking 2 Saturdays jackets, ACNE scarf, Rag & Bone Henley, and Warriors of Radness sweatpants. Del Toro drivers, Brera watch, and a Miansai bracelet on the other wrist.

STYLE IS 

easy if you know what to look for and inexpensive if you know where to get it. I learned this from my grandmother.

weird

OVERRATED  

Miami Heat and Chicago Bulls

STYLE IS 

OVERRATED 

menswear bloggers STYLE IS 

learned but taste is bestowed at birth.

UNDERRATED  UNDERRATED 

anything by Scott Walker OVERRATED 

anything touched by a Kardashian and those dreadful Discount Store Designer Collaborations UNDERRATED 

manners, and good vintage clothing

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Milan Vukmirovic’s new publication Fashion for Men. Brilliant and inspiring.


TREND—4

PATTERN Patterns are a quick way to make a bold statement. Beginners should reach for checked suits and collared shirts with a little extra oomph, while the more advanced (and slim-hipped) can go a little crazy with pants in aggressive plaids & loud florals. To keep the look in check, counter in-your-face pants with an ultra-thin neutral sweater or a super-classic leather jacket that delivers season after season.

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TREND—4

PATTERN

01—Canali 02—Billy Reid Take this as your proof that plaids can play well together, especially with a camel jacket or blazer in the mix to sharpen things up. 03—Timo Weiland 04—Richard Chai 05—Simon Spurr This suit could look clownish if the fit wasn’t just right: The stripes of this two-piece should follow your own lines very closely.

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06, 07—Marlon Gobel 08—Brioni If you’re risk-averse, go with neutral hues: Khaki-on-white and blue-on-black are always safe bets. 09—Billy Reid

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TO B E ONE OF A KI ND B R I ONI .COM


Diesel

TREND—5 Blancpain

ACCESSORIZE

When you’re on the move, you don’t want to be lugging around a whole wardrobe: It’s far sweeter to be the guy who can glide his rollerboard, wheels first, into the overhead bin than the one who has lots of suit options in his hotel closet. So when you’re living out of luggage, let your accessories do the talking. You’re looking for two things: Pieces that spice things up with a hit of color and those that make you look excruciatingly suave. Ready yourself to make some new friends.

Tod’s

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TREND—5

ACCESSORIZE 02

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OVERSIZE BAG Set aside that canvas-and-leather satchel of yours and reach for something bigger: These luxe duffles and jumbo briefcases are all you want in a carry-on. 03—Ovadia & Sons, 04—Zegna, 05—Tod’s, 06—Hugo Boss

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COLORFUL BELT

SPORT BRACELET

How much more interesting does a gray suit look with a deep green or cerulean belt? And there you have it.

When someone catches a woven bracelet peeking out from under your cuff, he instantly gives you cool-guy cred, whether he knows it or not. (p. 27)

01—Tod’s, 02—Ferragamo

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WATCH A textured band delivers plenty of polish but just enough character to earn you props for having good taste. 10, 11—Blancpain

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BOAT SHOE Stick to the most basic shape— but in a rich, solid color that immediately changes the vibe of whatever else you’re wearing. 07, 08—Florsheim, 09—Tod’s

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shop online hugoboss.com

HUGO

HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600


TREND—6

GROOMING

01  EOS (EVOLUTION OF SMOOTH) LIP BALM Every man should have a daily grooming routine. Whether you’re

on a date or going in for an interview—taking care of your body is vital to helping you succeed. We’ve done a roundup of some of the best products and a callout on ‘precision facial hair styling’ this season to help you keep looking your best.

This odd looking ball is the new thing in lip balm. With its smooth sphere, it precisely glides onto lips making application easier and cleaner than ever.

02  CHANEL HYDRAMAX + ACTIVE MOISTURE CREAM This moisturizer cleans and freshens your face. Throw on after a shower to keep your skin hydrated during the day.

03  KIEHL’S FACIAL FUEL EYE DE-PUFFER This lightweight cooling, de-puffing eye stick is formulated with caffeine to stimulate cellular renewal and refreshing herbal extracts to minimize puffiness. It is the perfect on-the-go eye treatment for after a workout or a long flight.

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04  GUCCI GUILTY INTENSE The name says it all. Besides the immediate sex appeal of the bottle, this fragrance has an intense balance of fruity, floral, and woodsy. Don’t have a date tonight? Give a quick spray… you will have a few.

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05  JACK BLACK PURE CLEAN DAILY FACIAL CLEANSER Jack Black’s Pure Clean Daily Facial Cleanser is a dual purpose 2-in-1 liquid cleanser and toner that removes deepdown dirt and oil, for clear, smooth, shave-ready skin. Works gently, without over-drying, to leave your complexion clean, hydrated and fresh.

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06  REN MATTE BALANCING FLUID If you’re prone to outbreaks but have dry or normal spots as well, you’re considered a man with combination skin. Don’t worry though—you won’t have to buy two different types of moisturizer because we’ve got the solution for you with REN’s Matte Balancing Fluid.

07  MOLTON BROWN ROK MINT FINE LIQUID HAND WASH & LOTION DUO The latest from Molton Brown—hands are left clean, soft and smelling of the sophisticated aroma of basil, black currant and mint.

08  BAXTER DAILY PROTEIN SHAMPOO

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With Baxter Daily Protein shampoo flush out the crud that accumulates in your hair throughout the day. Protect your hair now to worry less in the future.


PERSONAL STYLE STARTS WITH YOUR FACIAL HAIR Now you can get the tight look you want with one precision tool. The new Gillette® Fusion® ProGlide Styler™ features even trimming, a close shave, and accurate edging to master your true style.

Gillette.com


TREND—6

GROOMING While Guy Fieri has guaranteed that the goatee won’t be experiencing a comeback anytime soon, its much subtler cousin has emerged as the facial-hair frontrunner. The fauxtee, if you will, is minimalist: There are no complex geometries connecting the hair on your lip to that on your chin. The trick here is precision. Start by trimming what you want to keep, then shave what you don’t, and finish things off with a tool that creates clean edges—the whole process makes for an effect that would make Orlando Bloom and Johnny Depp proud.

THE SKINNY FAUXTEE Thin and precise. Try this version for a more sleek look.

CLASSIC FAUXTEE The Classic is the can’t-go-wrong look that treads sophisticated yet casual.

FULL TILT FAUXTEE For a bold and rugged look, the Full Tilt fits a more casual & relaxed style.

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DESIGNER—PROFILES

IAN VELARDI With just two seasons under his belt, Ian Velardi has already become one of those designers to look to when you want to know what’s up. And for spring, the 30-yearold veteran of Hart Schaffner Marx, Hickey Freeman, and Rogues Gallery is all about clothes that can tough it out. “I tried to use fabrics that are really durable yet still refined. There are some really heavy cottons that can take a beating and just get better,” he explains. “There’s a definite sense of adventure and travel—clothing that is meant to be worn and lived-in.” But what shape do those designs take, exactly? The key, as he sees it, is unconstructed tailoring that looks sleek but feels casual. “In general, guys are just paying a lot more attention to the way their clothing fits,” Velardi says. “And they have become much more knowledgeable about how to achieve a certain look.”

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MARLON GOBEL Marlon Gobel wants to surprise you, but he doesn’t want to scare you—and that’s a fine line in the fashion world. He nails his mission by playing on familiar forms, infusing them with just the right amount of madness. In the past, that’s meant hand-painted velvet blazers, and for his spring collection, he combined inspiration from Damien Hirst, Andy Warhol, and even ketchup ads to create shirts and suits featuring bold graphics. “I am mixing tradition and modern menswear. I have done this with highdefinition prints on cotton and tech fabrics that are phosphorescent or have an optical effect. It sounds very high-tech but ends up looking cool, fresh, and sophisticated. I think that my guy wants something unique and cool. He wants to feel special but doesn’t want to be the center of attention,” he explains. To that end, his collection also includes the sort of components— five-pocket cords and double-breasted peacoats—that can help to round out an outfit.

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CONDÉ NAST 2012 32  THE DETAILS COLLECTIONS

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FASHION MEETS THE WASH-OUT-YOUR-MOUTH-WITH-SOAP GUYS OF REAL MEN SWEAR. LOOK OUT, YOU WELL DRESSED FASHION FANATICS! YOU COULD BE NEXT.



The DETAILS Collections - Spring 2012