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Issue 10 Spring 2017

Quarterly The eyes & ears of the hospitality industry Timeless classics | Season ticket | Starstruck | A server’s guide to diners | Mexico

Distributed by hand to the best restaurants, hotels, bars and private members’ clubs | codehospitality.co.uk


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Join The Ned family for the opening careers@thened.com

SOHO HOUSE & CO AND SYDELL GROUP X CODE CAREERS

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Contents 7.

What’s hot. What’s not.

10.

Restaurant gossip

12.

Timeless classics

16.

A server’s guide to diners

18.

Hospitality marketing post-Trump

22.

The state of coffee

24.

Season ticket

28.

An Englishman in St. Anton

30.

Millennial retreats

33.

How to fuel your workout

38.

Starstruck

40.

Eat. Drink. Design.

44.

Textures

46.

Down Mexico way

48.

Instagram spotlight

49.

24 hours in Vienna

50.

Last orders

Editor Adam Hyman

Head office CODE Hospitality 6th Floor Greener House 66-68 Haymarket London SW1Y 4RF Tel: +44 207 104 2007 contact@codehospitality.co.uk @CODEhospitality @codehospitality CODE Quarterly (Online) ISSN 2398-9726

CODE Quarterly is published four times a year by Nexus CODE Limited, 6th Floor, Greener House, 66-68 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4RF. Registered no. 07950029 England and Wales. Printed by DataComuniqué, The Loft, 68 Crescent Lane, London, SW4 9PU

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Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

Creative Director James Wood

Contributors James Collins Ashley Cooper Hugh Duffie Callum Edge Chloe Hamilton Josh Katz James Lewis Andrew Lowkes Ines Salpico Emyr Thomas Mikey Williams James Wood


Making your vision a reality. CDG Leisure is London’s leading leisure and restaurant property agency. The most active leisure agency advising both tenants and landlords. Specialist knowledge of a niche market and unrivalled relationships with operators of all sizes. A winning result for your business delivered with integrity.

Allow us to serve you. 020 7100 5520 www.cdgleisure.com


What’s hot.

Timeless classics The image on the front cover of this issue struck a chord with me. Not a day seems to go past without us opening a newspaper or seeing a news bulletin that claims eating a certain type of food is bad for us or in fact, prior to previous research, is now actually good for us. I like to think that society is well-versed enough now to know that we need to watch what we eat, as well as exercise to stay healthy, but let’s remember - food and restaurants are meant to be fun. Thankfully people are starting to realise that the clean eating phenomenon is not the same as eating healthily. So, eat what makes you happy. Our feature on old menus (p. 12) from The Ivy, Ritz and Simpson’s in-the-Strand makes for a fun read to see what diners were eating decades ago. As more and more restaurants open, I keep getting asked the same question. “Are there too many restaurants?” It makes for an interesting topic of debate. I don’t know the answer but what I keep asking myself is whether diners are eating in a restaurant more than once? Restaurants need repeat custom but with the number of new restaurants opening every month in the capital, the odds must be going down. 2017 has got off to a busy start for us at CODE. In January, I picked up the ‘Bright Young Thing’ award at The Mayfair & St James’s Community Awards for CODE and it’s a testament to how far the hospitality industry has come in recent years to be recognised for the work we do. You’ll see from this issue that we’ve teamed up with The Ned in the City – the latest opening from Soho House and Sydell Group. As well as the recruitment advertorials in the magazine, we’re working on making The Ned the place for the industry to hang out on a Sunday evening – watch this space. The CODE app is going from strength to strength as a staff perk for those working in hospitality and we’ve now launched in Dublin, with a view to set up in other European cities. Over the past 18 months, CODE Consultancy has really come on in leaps and bounds. We’re now actively fundraising for an exciting selection of restaurants and street food operators, who will all open their own restaurants at some point this year. As always, we have a number of people from across the industry contributing to this issue. James Lewis of Gauthier Soho takes a closer look at hospitality marketing in the post-trump era (p.18), Ines Salpico explores the importance of texture in restaurant design and its impact upon hospitality (p. 44) and James Wood chats to some street food operators from the past and present on how important their branding has been to their success (p. 40). Hugh Duffi e, co-founder of Sandows, talks us through the state of coff ee in the UK (p. 22) and Andrew Lowkes of Neal’s Yard Dairy discusses the importance of seasonality and working closely with producers (p. 24). Further afi eld, I visited Austria to check out Hotel Tannenhof in St. Anton (p. 28), where English chef James Baron is putting the hotel on the Austrian gastro-map, I then jumped on the ÖBB to Vienna to report on the best places to eat and drink in the Austrian capital (p. 49). Ashley Cooper of Travūsso makes his debut appearance by reporting on the rise of millennials looking for experiences when it comes to travel (p. 30) and Emyr Thomas of Bon Vivant Travel reports back from the Riviera Maya in Mexico (p. 46). I always learn something from James Collins’s article in each issue. This time he looks at the importance of how to fuel your workout (p. 33) and Callum Edge thinks it’s time to move on from the much-hyped restaurant guides and lists that get published each year (p. 38). We’ve had a bit of fun putting together the server’s guide to diners feature (p. 16) and Josh Katz of Berber & Q shows you how to knock up a braised egg shakshuka for this issues’ post shift recipe (p. 50).

Bank All eyes on EC2 with Coya, the Bloomberg building and The Ned opening up. Suits are cool again.

British charcuterie The UK takes a slice of the cured meat market – as seen at Nape, Luca, Chewton Glen and The Reliance.

The grey pound The older generations with the cash to spend in restaurants.

Chef ’s Table Season 3 on Netfl ix now.

What’s not. Cash Cash is no longer king. Cards only please.

Hispi cabbage Seen on every single menu at the moment. There are other cabbages out there.

Thank you for your support and as ever, questions and comments can be sent to me at: adam@codehospitality.co.uk

Food delivery Arrives late, cold and damages a restaurant’s brand. Eat out, people.

Adam Hyman Founder, CODE @AdamMHyman -7-

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

National “every fucking thing” day Enough already.


WineBar 8.0 - The Harwood Arms Š EuroCave - 02/2017 - Photos are not contractually binding. - Beth Crockatt

Wine Bar is the only solution that enhances the wine service by the glass and by the bottle. Wine Bar improves the quality of your service while maintaining the timeless gestures of the biggest sommeliers.

www.pro.eurocave.co.uk


It’s a gin thing This may be one of the less obvious combinations we’ve come across but Mossel & Gin restaurant in Amsterdam decided to bottle the famous sauce they serve alongside their mussels and fries. Owners Josh Shelter and Wouter ten Velde teamed up with Van Wijngaarden, makers of the famous Zaanse Mayo, and Bobby’s Dry Gin to create their tube of gin mayo. This unique collaboration between a mayonnaise producer, a gin brand and a restaurant is not only a bit of fun but is a must condiment to have in your fridge. Gin Mayo Mossel & Gin, from €1.95 for a 170ml tube from mosselengin.nl

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

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Restaurant gossip CODE’s Chloë Hamilton takes a look at the latest goings on from the world of hospitality.

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London XU

Taiwanese family team Erchen Chang, Shing Tat Chung and Wai Ting Chung are well known on the London restaurant circuit for their riotously successful BAO enterprise. This spring expectations are high as they launch their next project, XU. The upscale 76-cover restaurant on Soho’s Rupert Street will hark back to a glamorous 1930s Taiwan with interiors designed by BradyWilliams Studio and a bespoke tea bar with a dedicated Tea Master.

Bibendum

After closing his two star restaurant Hibiscus in the autumn, Lyon born chef Claude Bosi will open the new Bibendum in the coming months. The iconic Michelin building, dating back to 1911, will house a seafood restaurant on the ground floor and a more formal finedining affair upstairs. He’s bringing almost his entire staff over to Fulham Road from Hibiscus and intends to stay put. “This is my last move”, said Bosi in an interview with Observer Food Monthly.

Anna Tobias

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

Anna Tobias, a chef that made her name at Rochelle Canteen via the Blueprint Café and the River Café, will be moving on to pastures new in the next few months. Her new project will be at the Garden Museum on Lambeth Palace Road, which has been undergoing a £7.5million redevelopment project. Rather than sticking with British dishes, Tobias wants to bring back the European classics, so expect to see stroganoffs and goulashes on the menu.

Nobu Hospitality

In summer 2017, Nobu Hospitality will be putting down roots in Shoreditch with their first European hotel. The fractured, angular architecture of the building chimes with Nobu’s east-meets-west philosophy and echoes the area’s industrial legacy. Along with the 143-rooms there will be a 240-cover Nobu restaurant with head chef Greg Seregi serving up signature black cod miso and crab rolls alongside new London-inspired dishes.

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Rest of the UK

Rest of the World

Rosewood Edinburgh

LA

Cargo 2

Hotel Eden Rome

After plans were rejected to transform Edinburgh’s former Royal High School into a 147-room hotel, proposals have been scaled down and resubmitted. If successful, luxury hoteliers Rosewood are set to open the striking neoclassical landmark atop Calton Hill after 50 years of the building lying vacant. Scottish architect Gareth Hoskins is tasked with the renovation, which will include three restaurants, a swimming pool and rooms that take in panoramic views of the Scottish capital. Following the success of Cargo 1 at Wapping Wharf in Bristol, Cargo 2 is well on its way with shipping containers arriving and the food line up announced. Amongst the new arrivals will be Gambas, sister restaurant to Bristol’s popular Bravas, and Russell Norman and Richard Beatty’s Spuntino. Josh Eggleton’s Salt & Malt will also be there, serving their gluten free fish and chips in a converted container boasting a terrace overlooking the harbour.

D&D Leeds

D&D London will be opening two new sites in the impressive rooftop space of Leeds’s new Victoria Gate development this spring. The first, Issho, will be headed up by Sexy Fish and Zuma alumni, Ben Orpwood, serving small pan-Asian and Japanese plates using Yorkshire produce. Next door will be New York inspired East 59th – an all-day grill and bar with equally good views. Hampshire’s idyllic country house hotel, Chewton Glen, has been building a brand new space to house a restaurant and cookery school. The Kitchen opens in March with a casual menu from head chef Adam Hart featuring British charcuterie, local cheeses and fruit and veg from Chewton Glen’s own garden. The cookery school, overseen by James Martin, will then launch in April. The open plan design of the space means diners can observe the chefs-in-training at work.

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Due to reopen in April after 17 months of extensive renovation, Hotel Eden in Rome is set to settle back into its position as one of the top hotels in the world. Part of the Dorchester Collection, the hotel will have fewer rooms but with the addition of a full service spa and secret library bar. The panoramic rooftop bar has also had a refit making use of their enviable proximity to the Trinità dei Monti and Villa Borghese.

The Avocado Show

Three friends in Amsterdam are capitalising on the popularity of a certain green superfruit by opening an all-avocado restaurant. The Avocado Show will serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, dishing out a hit of green goodness with every menu item. Until doors open this spring, it remains to be seen whether this is a good idea or just a gimmick that’s not quite ripe.

Portugal

The five star Hotel Quinta Da Marinha resort in Lisbon is introducing a novel meeting format: the walk and talk. A stroll through the verdant grounds within the SintraCascais Natural Park reportedly improves cognitive engagement and honest exchanges between colleagues. Elsewhere in Portugal, the Time Out Group is looking to replicate the popularity of their food market in Lisbon with a second site in Porto’s iconic São Bento train station, due to open in the second half of 2017.

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

Chewton Glen

Jessica Koslow, chef and owner of LA’s hugely popular neighbourhood restaurant Sqirl, is expanding her Californian empire. The as yet unnamed restaurant will be an 8,000 square foot space with 120-covers in West LA. The menu will take inspiration from the Jewish diaspora and use Koslow’s own Malibu farm to source produce. There is also an offsite fermentation lab in the works in collaboration with ex MAD/Noma researcher, Arielle Johnson.


Timeless classics W E ’ V E D E LV E D I N T O T H E M E N U ARCHIVES OF THE RITZ, SIMPSON’S I N - T H E - ST R A N D A N D T H E I V Y.


Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk


Issue 9 | Winter 2016 | codehospitality.co.uk


A server’s guide to diners FROM THE BILL-SPLITTER TO T HE INSTAGR AMMER - WE’ VE GOT YOUR BACK

Words by Mikey Williams Illustrations by Rikki Marr

The itter bill-spl

The reader w e i v re

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

A weekly dose of Maschler, Coren and O’Loughlin means that this type of diner has a back-story on every single dish. While they’re tucking in to Kricket’s smoked haddock kichri they’ll be educating their fellow diners in the British-Indian heritage of kedgeree, or if they’re tucking into a plate of Blacklock’s chops you’ll be hearing about the intricacies of the dry-ageing process used by the restaurant’s butchers. Easy to spot as well - might be wearing corduroy.

There’s no such thing as going halves in their books. As soon as the bill is presented, their smartphone and its calculator emerge and they’ll proceed to account for absolutely everything - even though they drank more than their fair share of the bottle of Picpoul. It’s likely a parent is an accountant and they always ask for a doggy bag as nothing must go to waste – they paid for it, remember.

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The velled well-tra They’ve been there, done that and got every fucking t-shirt to prove it. Likely to temper their friends’ enjoyment of dinner at Hoppers by banging on about how, if you had been to Sri Lanka as they had, you would know that it’s actually more of a breakfast dish. Or the bone-in rib-eye they’ve just fi nished doesn’t come anywhere close to the revered, Galician dairymilker they tried whilst swanning around San Sebastian four years ago.


The oveter food c

The t allergis They’re not offi cially allergic to wheat or dairy but it does make them bloated so they actively check a restaurant’s menu online before agreeing to dine there. If there isn’t almond milk, gluten free pasta or egg white omelette – that must be cooked in coconut oil – they’ll be trouble and need to consult Gwynnie’s Goop on what to do. However, they’ve mastered the art of chowing down a large chunk of bread smothered in salty butter while nobody else is looking.

The ammer r g a t s n I “No intrusive photography please.” That means put away the SLR and step off your chair, fuck-wit. A meal out is planned around a restaurant that has the most “instagrammable” dish and don’t forget the lighting has to be just right. No candle-lit meals allowed. They’ll likely dine with other Instagrammers as all their other friends are fed up of having to wait for their food to be photographed before they can tuck in. Don’t get them started on whether a Samsung or iPhone has a better camera.

They take an age to order - umming and ahhing over their starter and main - and of couse, once the food arrives they have complete food envy. It’s the stare of longing that marks this one out. Their beady eyes will keep fl icking to what everyone else has on their plates rather than their own. They’ll likely request a taster - even if their fellow diner’s starter consists of one diffi cult-to-divide up scallop. You’ll hear the rest of the table sigh a relief when you explain it’s a sharing concept.

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

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Hospitality marketing post-Trump: do restaurants need to be more anti-establishment? Gauthier Soho’s James Lewis is bored of the same old PR and marketing guff. It’s time for a change.

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ot long ago, letting a business owner loose on Twitter was a PR death wish. But 2016 was an eventful year. Politics has proved that to communicate effectively, we don’t do things the old way anymore. Maybe restaurant marketing needs to embrace the anti-establishment?

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

Ever since I can remember, the hospitality industry has toed the line following the rules of communication obediently. Traditional media was courted by traditional PR companies typically looking after 20 or more clients who would be carefully positioned in this week’s ‘hot lists’ or ‘roundups’ and customers would duly follow suit. This industry ‘establishment’ has sailed a very steady ship for years. Who would want to upset this applecart? Everybody gets paid. The PR company gets its monthly retainer. The journalists get their constant flow of freebies. The media keeps its authoritative status and its flow of advertising revenue continues. Today however, I can feel customers are beginning to sense this is a carefully spun act. The endless puff pieces, the sickly adoration, the brownnosing matey reviews, the relentless

spew of ‘I’ll scratch your back’ lists, guides and restaurant finders - both printed and digital - has ended up as choreographed noise. It’s New Labour, it’s Cameron & Osborne. Slick and grinning.

They want transparency, truth, wartsand-all honesty. And if this means unmanaged social media accounts, bad grammar, drunken outbursts, public squabbles and all-out handbags on a Sunday afternoon, so be it.

And just like the voting public, the consumer is no different. Today’s restaurant goers are cynical. Dubious. Sceptical. They’ve grown weary of

A few of my favourite people in this industry are already becoming known for being just this. What would have been commercial suicide is now

“Today’s restaurant goers are cynical. Dubious. Sceptical. They’ve grown weary of the act, the strategies, the orchestrated spin.” the act, the strategies, the orchestrated spin. Highly polished press releases and carefully planned lead times feel awfully contrived, and bandwagonjumping gimmicks are regularly screenshotted and publicly ripped apart by the sniggering Twitterati. The 21st Century customer can see right through it. -18-

becoming a way to earn affection. The late-night tirade against the arsey customer, the angry exchanges, the public inter-industry fallings out, all would have been advised to keep quiet because ‘that’s not the way things are done’.


Is this Donald Trump marketing? Nigel Farage Marketing? I shudder at the association, but you can’t help but create the analogy.

snobbish aloofness, the cleverer roll up their sleeves happily and get stuck in, arguing publicly like one of the masses with anyone who weighs in with an opinion. Good on them.

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Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

So maybe the evolution of infl uence is inevitable, and the smart are already adapting. Old media will stop fretting about the shrinking pool of ad revenue and unbutton its shirt. Critics will This is all good news for the little sharpen their knives and say what guy, as independents don’t have the However, it was a past era of critics they really think. PR companies will layers of red tape to clear before you could rely on for being regularly take a more loosey-goosey approach communicating. If anything, they’ve acerbic, and today’s feel rather meek and stop gagging their clients. A new created this new era for restaurants. in comparison. The three star reviews era of anti-establishment restaurant And the big players are quick to follow arrive every week, safe and inoff ensive, marketing is here and it’s up to the suit, with their marketing increasingly perhaps themselves now in fear of a smartest to fi nd a way of taking back taking up a more ‘unkempt’ approach. comments war or chef Twitter tangle? control. See Wetherspoons publicly calling One cannot help but feel yesterday’s out Jamie Oliver over his closing critics wouldn’t have had such fears. restaurants announcements, for example. The dreaded TripAdvisor review should also get a mention here, too. How infl uential is the establishment My acknowledgement of the positive anymore anyway? One of the more infl uence of user-generated reviews well-known food journalists recently and sites is known, and guess what, was being criticised for giving a certain this plays directly into this idea. The clean-eating guru ‘publicity’ via the user-review is about the most antipaper’s Instagram feed. I found this establishment form of marketing James Lewis hilarious, especially when the person there is. The pure unadulterated, @JLewisland concerned had almost ten times the unmoderated, uncensored, fake-news, follower count as the newspaper. crack cocaine of marketing. The jaded James Lewis works as the Creative Who’s publicising who here? consumer adores the user review. Development & Marketing Manager for It’s Amazon, it’s Uber, it’s Airbnb. Gauthier Soho and Gauthier Wines. But far from being an anti-critic piece, The fact that a restaurant can fake it this is quite the opposite. Some critics actually makes it more real, more posttoo have learned that the direct- 2016, more populist, like the fake-news engagement approach curries favour Twitter feeds, because the consumer with their own readers. While a few likes to know they can spot the fake, it still take the ‘I don’t do comments’ puts them in command.


GIG X CODE HOSPITALITY

The working world is changing. ANTONY WOODCOCK OF GIG TAKES A LOOK AT THE CHANGING LANDSCAPE OF THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY AND ITS FUTURE.

T

The hospitality industry has always seemed to be at the back of the pack with regards to technology. Like the last guy to be picked at gym class, it’s desperate to be recognised but never had enough to offer.

the hospitality industry to sit up and pay attention. Deliveroo had the same effect on the restaurant market.

The root cause of this change? The consumer. Third parties have had to step in to revamp the somewhat dated practices of the industry, to make independent owner/operators wake up to the importance of a digital presence. The likes of TripAdvisor, Booking.com and more recently Airbnb, third parties are disrupting the market and forcing

Now one such area undergoing its own renovation is the temporary staffing agency. For the first time technology is helping to create a truly on-demand service whilst providing greater transparency around costs and potential staff.

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

The unique nature of its operational intricacies and the lack of a personal service have played their part in the industry’s initial reluctance to change model and adapt. For the first time

however, the hospitality industry seems to have finally been ‘hitting the weights’.

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“...third parties are disrupting the market and forcing the hospitality industry to sit up and pay attention.”

GIG, the brainchild of three lifelong hospitality professionals, is an app that works in favour of both the work seeker and work provider by creating an effi cient, cost eff ective shift based marketplace. Focusing on fl exibility and immediacy, GIG allows you to reduce your staffi ng costs whilst empowering you to make the right hiring decision for both you and your brand’s needs.

TRANSPARENCY.

Unlike traditional agencies, GIG gives you full control to decide who you want to fulfi l your shift. It organises applicants based on a number of variables, so that the best person for your shift is always at the top of the list.

COST SAVING. GIG separates its fees from the hourly rate so that you can see exactly what you’re saving from each transaction. By paying a fl at fee per shift, you can reduce the cost of hiring.

The GIG app is available to download from both the Apple and Google Play stores for free.

ACCOUNTABILITY.

More information on GIG can be found by visiting their website: gigtogig.co.uk

It’s not always easy fi nding your feet when adopting a new model. With a dedicated account management and support team, help is always on hand.

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For sales enquires please contact: sales@gigtogig.co.uk

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

GIG also charges a fl at fee on shift completion, helping to separate labour costs from GIG’s costs - saving you money in the process. With full account management and staff training, GIG provides everything a traditional temporary agency off ers and more.

GIG provides an abundance of information on each potential candidate, from their in-app work history to their training profi ciencies and any previous employer references. All candidates are sorted based on these factors to make your hiring choices easier.


The state of coffee Hugh Duffie enthuses over the importance of good coffee across the board.

C

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

offee has never been better than it is right now. An astonishing number of new coffee shops have opened in London in recent years, establishing a new normal for quality expectations from punters. These openings have driven big change outside of cafes too. Knowing there’s a speciality cafe within ten minutes walk of just about anywhere in London, the TATE roasting their own coffee, dependable coffee across the Soho House Group and speciality grade cold brew in supermarkets, why settle for something worse than you can find so easily elsewhere?

Coffee as we know it has already been tipped on its head, and with Silicon Valley tech investors taking an interest it’s likely that there’s plenty more change coming for the world’s favourite beverage. As an Australian working in coffee in London, I’ve always been asked if coffee here is as good as it is in Australia. My answer has remained the same, that the best coffee in London is as good as anywhere else in the world, but that expectations at the base level are higher in Australia. It’s taking a huge cultural shift to create the environment for that to even out - people drinking less alcohol, taking more interest in the provenance of their food and drinks but it’s well under way. Big changes, while they take a long time, often creep up on you so here are a few things to keep an eye on.

Office coffee has become big business, with companies like Blue Tiger Coffee linking up corporates with London’s best roasters and even setting up inhouse cafes with a full barista service. Facebook’s cafe ‘Common Grind’ has developed their own app to allow employees to order coffee from their desk to avoid queuing and they can even gift a coffee to a colleague to say thanks. The coffee at home market has been well and truly disrupted with tens of thousands introduced to brewing their own coffee at home by Pact and similar

Whether it’s a hand pour, Aeropress or batch brew, filter coffee has increased in popularity phenomenally in the last few years especially as consumers understand the product more. Even pods are having their moment as coffee pros are meeting people in the middle and using the tremendously convenient Nespresso format to showcase their carefully sourced and roasted coffees. I’m personally not an espresso lover but the version you get from a Colonna pod is really different and we’re going to see much more happening in this format which will

“An authentic experience of coffee culture comes from making something that’s normally standard into something special.” subscription services. Their promise of ‘the best cup of coffee you’ve ever made’ has opened consumer’s minds to seasonal flavour changes and the world of possibilities beyond espresso based coffee. On that note, filter coffee is shaking off its stale, stigmatised image and has the coffee world excited. -22-

come as great news to restaurants and hotels where full espresso service may not be viable. Looking further afield, companies like Sudden Coffee in San Francisco are challenging the idea of instant coffee by using speciality grade for a just-add-


water version. This comes as part of the wider growth of ready-to-drink coff ee, led predominantly by bottled cold brew coff ee, the gentle brewing method that involves infusing coff ee

“Don’t underestimate the importance of coffee.”

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Hugh Duffie @hughduffie Hugh Duffie is the co-founder of Sandows

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

in cold water overnight. Young people keen to participate in coff ee culture are drawn to cold brew by its smoother, mellow fl avour with less bitterness. Already a maturing category in the US, cold brew is becoming a standard fi xture on coff ee shop menus in the UK and is opening up new avenues for speciality coff ee-like supermarkets. Starbucks are onto it too, their new Starbucks Reserve concept in Covent Garden providing an outlet to test concepts like nitrogen infused cold brew.

Airport coff ee might be the last one to change but the Stumptown Coff ee Roasters cafe at Portland International Airport could be an early indicator that we’re moving towards bad coff ee as the exception rather than the rule. An authentic experience of coff ee culture comes from making something that’s normally standard into something special. Given many Londoners feel like they may never own their own home, everyday aff ordable luxuries like the coff ee they drink form a part of their identity as much as the clothes they wear. The important thing to remember? Don’t underestimate the importance of coff ee. Whether it’s in an eff ort to capture some extra sales earlier in the day or as a vehicle to spend more time engaging with guests, now’s the time to make “good coff ee” part of your identity too.


Season ticket

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

A NDR E W LOWK ES OF NE A L ’S YA R D DAIR Y LO OK S AT T HE I MP OR TANCE OF SEASONALIT Y AND WORKING C L O S E LY W I T H P R O D U C E R S .

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I

was recently at dinner talking shop with a friend; he sells fruits and vegetables to the trade and I look after our restaurant wholesale at Neal’s Yard Dairy. We got talking about engagement - how does the supplier neatly package what’s happening on the farms, the fishing boats, the ageing rooms and most directly convey that to the chef ?

to table cooking, the world recently witnessed René Redzepi dismount the iconic sign at the entrance to noma. And following a stint in Mexico, the restaurant will reopen later this year in its new evolutionary phase.

Between cheese gradings with our buying team or trainings for our customers, a decent chunk of my work takes place from our offices and maturation arches in Bermondsey. And yet the desk is not, mercifully, where the capital’s most progressively minded chefs choose to spend their working hours.

“For most chefs today seasonality is the most fundamental organising principle in the search for good food.”

I asked my friend, “when you know time is limited and communication fraught, what is your most powerful prompt in helping your customer make menu decisions?” Imagining he’d say “Whatsapp”, he instead immediately replied, “seasonality”. For the supplier of fruit and veg it is both the stick and the carrot (pun intended). Asparagus in November? Strawberries in January? For most chefs today seasonality is the most fundamental organising principle in the search for good food. But just how well do we understand its rules? And how can we explore its inner workings in order to maximise resource and arrive at a more delicious plate of food? After twelve years of hedgerow

search for the truth at the heart of nature’s restless choreography.

Beyond the kitchen, in the trading of commodities, the supermarket negotiates a far more flippant relationship with seasonality - a In his own words, the cooking at marriage of tolerable convenience. It noma 2.0 will be a “true reflection wasn’t that long ago that I remember

of the landscape at that moment, the unique flavour of that point in time”. The menu will be organised around what Redzepi calls “a myriad of microseasons”. Not just seasonally focused, but seasonally epitomised. More broadly, it could be argued that the New Nordic Cuisine’s most singular contribution to contemporary gastronomy is its sustained investigation into the effects of the seasons on a specific place, at a specific moment. Thereby helping us to arrive at a richer understanding of a place’s diversity, its traditions, its flavours. A

seeing forced rhubarb appear in my local chain convenience store for the first time. Then what next? Cumbrian wild garlic in the herb aisle? Scottish girolles next to the button mushrooms? There are indeed signs of progress. That is until the seasons change their course and threaten to destabilise the balance to the point of near collapse. In the most extreme example, the supermarket’s aseasonal addiction to commodity fruits and vegetables briefly became a subject of media interest earlier this year. Amidst a

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

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“perfect storm” of poor growing conditions in southern Europe, shelves were emptied of peppers and courgettes. Buyers scrambled to have iceberg lettuces air freighted in from the USA. And for just a couple of weeks the humble British winter root crop enjoyed a moment of relative celebrity under the glare of fluorescent strip light.

protagonist has to be the seasonally oriented, curious, engaged chef.

to kitchens like noma, the lore of seasonality has not just reimagined contemporary cuisine, it has also The commodity market leaves us helped change the very identity of vulnerable, while the best restaurants the chef-protagonist. More than ever leave us empowered. And as one of before he or she must also be a thinker, this story’s strongest protagonists, the a collaborator, a grower, a forager, a New York based chef Dan Barber, has voice. And once all of these activities famously written, “when you pursue have been brought to bear on the great flavour, you also pursue great dish, it must also be chef who then ecology”. In no small part owing delivers it to the guest for a thorough table-side explication of process and provenance. The increased presence of the chef in the dining room, beyond the threshold of the pass, symbolises the cook’s changing role as an advocate for delicious food, with truly seasonal integrity.

“In the UK we import an estimated 50% of our vegetables and 90% of our fruit.”

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Just as British cuisine has borrowed from other traditions and food cultures it seems that, more than ever, we rely on foreign growing seasons too. In the UK we import an estimated 50% of our vegetables and 90% of our fruit. And with the slump in the value of the pound, any GP-conscious chef will tell you that this increasingly carries a financial cost as well as logistical and environmental problems too. But there is another casualty that will always be of greater concern to the chef than the supermarket. Where consistency of supply and conformity of type are the essential buying criteria, the innocent victim is ultimately good flavour. Precisely for this reason, it is hard to imagine the supermarket stepping up to become our food system’s great reformer. I believe in the power of a delicious plate of food and for that reason our -26-

And so, returning to that original conversation between grocer and cheese supplier, it would certainly seem that the rules of seasonality are


better understood in the context of the fruit and veg growing season. To the extent that seasonality can be invoked as a marketing strategy. While in my experience the eff ects of those rules are far less well understood in the production of milk and cheese, surely they nevertheless follow the same principles? And if so, the question therefore becomes, how can the chef quite literally bring these ideas to the table? And help the market to more fully engage with seasonal complexity across the entire food system? At Neal’s Yard we work with around 50 cheese makers producing a diverse range of styles; from traditional Appleby’s Cheshire to new school cheddar-style, Hafod. We prioritise good fl avour and this means the majority make by hand, on a human scale - most but not all using raw milk from their own farms.

“...seasonality can be invoked as a marketing strategy.” rearing on the young males and bringing them to the London market in spring/summer.

of the milk’s production - the soil, the feed, the herd, the climate, the microbiology.

Likewise all this milk and all this cheese means a lot of separated whey as a byproduct. And so Mary fi nds herself in the pig business, bringing whey-fed pork to restaurants during the cheese season also. This is a period of great activity, but the herd’s lactation cycle will last for only nine months. And so, in the autumn, the season closes and this frantic cycle completes itself.

This language is familiar. For Redzepi and noma, these unique characteristics are the building blocks that contribute to a true sense of “place”, the unique fl avour of “that point in time’. I like a beetroot and goat’s cheese salad as much as the next guy, but it seems that there is a growing interest among chefs to think more deeply about the process of cooking, starting at the farm level. What makes sense, what is right, what is true at this moment, in this place? And how can we adapt our cooking so that every element of a farm’s production is maximised across every moment in the season. The answer may well lie in a piece of British farmhouse cheese. But maybe I am biased.

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Andrew Lowkes @andrewlowkes @neals_yard_dairy Andrew Lowkes is head of restaurant sales at Neal’s Yard Dairy.

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Within that lactation season, quality and consistency are shifting goal posts too. Most farmhouse cheese makers will tell you that early and late lactation milk is tricky to work with; fatty, protein-rich and unstable. One farm that is more eloquently But the mid-season comes with its expressive of the changing seasons own challenges too, for the simple than many is Sleight Farm, owned by reason that yields spike. And yet - at Mary Holbrook. She produces four that precise moment - just when our raw goat’s milk cheeses for us named ageing rooms are bursting with the Sleightlett, Tymsboro, Cardo and Old season’s high summer soft cheeses, our Ford - and they are also some of the market shrinks and we see our slowest most characterful, unique cheeses we sales period. This is not only tricky to manage, it is a missed opportunity and handle. an example of how seasonal cheese Following the winter off -season - when production and consumption could her animals are dried and cheese surely be more closely aligned. making has ceased - Mary’s herd comes back into milk with the arrival For these reasons, scaled up dairy of spring’s kid goats. And, almost processors will more often outsource overnight, the farm leaps into life. the agricultural bit entirely, instead The fi rst milkers enter the parlour, preferring to buy milk in from multiple early lactation batches of Sleightlett herds. This obviously facilitates greater and Tymsboro cheeses drain in their fl exibility in supply and a consistency moulds and the herd goes out to new of profi le. But what is fundamentally pasture. And so almost by accident, at stake here is a cheese’s ability to Mary fi nds herself in the meat business express the unique circumstances


An Englishman in St. Anton Despite not skiing, Adam Hyman finds a reason to head to the Austrian village of St. Anton. Clue – it involves food and wine.

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

Image credit: Felix Steck

Image credit: Birgit Koell

Everything at the Tannenhof exudes luxury. I’ve stayed in a lot of hotels – I would like to one-day live in one, but that’s for another time – and the level of attention to detail at this hotel is world class. The upkeep is fl awless. Not a single scuff or scratch in sight. A bugbear of mine is checking into a hotel room that has walls covered in scuff marks. Lighting was on point, the bathroom was bigger than my apartment and my biggest turn on of all – sockets by the bed.

I

don’t ski. I never have and I most likely never will. I’m not a fan of clunky footwear and to be honest, I’d always choose a white beach over white slopes. Yet I found myself in a snowy St. Anton am Arlberg – a glam ski resort in Austria – at the beginning of March for a couple of nights. But I was not there for the socalled aprés ski or to go off -piste. I’d fl own to Innsbruck to stay at the Hotel Tannenhof. Of course, the cosy interiors of the seven-suite hotel with its Tyrolean furniture and open fi replaces, as well as the pillow menu that is sent in advance for guests to choose from, was part of the reason for the visit to this Austrian village. But what really piqued my interest was the restaurant at the hotel, that

is now run by an English chef, who has helped cement its position on the European gastro map. Once the Rimowas had been collected off the luggage belt at Kranebitten, we were greeted by the Tannenhof ’s chauff eur who had come to pick us up in one of their Maserati to whisk us an hour up the road to St. Anton. Not only was the hypnotic hum of an Italian sports car and the snowy Alps in the distance enough to relax us into the journey but the homemade snacks and chilled drinks provided, made it even more enjoyable. As the clock struck 1pm, we were greeted with a smile, a roaring fi re, a sleepy black Labrador and a glass of Bollinger. A nice welcome to St. Anton.

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Whether hitting the slopes is your thing or not, you’d be foolish not to check out the spa at the Tannenhof. The indoor pool, outdoor sauna and ice-cold plunge pool is a perfect way to spend a couple of hours before dinner. James Baron, 31 years old, is fl uent in German and French but clearly an Englishman. He joined the Tannenhof as head chef in December 2015 and in his fi rst year at the fi ve-star superior hotel he was awarded 18 points out of a possible 20 by the Gault&Millau restaurant guide, making the Tannenhof the top restaurant in western Austria. Baron was also awarded “Austrian Chef of the Year 2017” by the Grand Restaurant & Hotel Guide but he wasn’t always set on a career in the kitchen.


Image credit: Birgit Koell

Although this fi eldtrip comes at a price, it is one that is worth paying for. The only option is a tasting menu but one that allows diners to choose between 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7 courses – a nice compromise for no á la carte options. We opt for 5 courses at €125 per person.

sturgeon dish came with a generous pile of caviar on a bed of what tasted like a chunky leek and potato soup. Every Brit loves a soup. Foie gras – presented in two diff erent ways – was a reminder of Baron’s CV with his experience in Michelin star kitchens. A warming broth with crayfi sh and dumplings was on brand for Tyrol. The fi nal savoury course was probably the most simple but yet the stand out

The amuse-bouche arrived and gave a welcome nod to the creativity and quality of food we were about to be served, as well as Baron’s experience in the kitchen. After completing his A-levels back in London, Baron had planned to study architecture but it was a stint working in a Michelin Baron’s food draws inspiration from star restaurant in his home town of the roots of Austrian cuisine and when Petersfi eld in Hampshire that made we sat down for dinner – with views him realise he was destined to work over the mountains and snow lightly in the hospitality industry. After his falling – we’re handed a menu that training, he found himself working is titled “Culinary journey through in restaurants in Canada before he the Alps”. The menu is designed moved to Switzerland where he worked like an OS Map – unfolding it like at Didier de Courten’s two Michelin an overeager Scout on a fi eldtrip – it starred restaurant and also for Andreas reveals a map of Austria, on one side Caminada at Schauenstein Schloss it depicts where the food has been Restaurant Hotel. dish. A medium rare slice of Austrian sourced and the food for the night on beef in a silky jus that worked well the reverse. A cute ceramic dish fi lled with venison with a glass of Blaufränkisch. tartare was a vibrant start to the meal – both in colour and palate. The And the perfect end to a meal – being able to retire to your bedroom in a matter of minutes. There’s now a reason to visit St. Anton even if, like me, you cannot ski. hoteltannenhof.net

Adam Hyman @AdamMHyman -29-

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Image credit: Felix Steck

CODE Hospitality was a guest of Hotel Tannenhof


Millennial Retreats IN A S S O CIAT ION W I T H T R AV U S S O

I

n all its high-rise, fast-paced neon glory - Hong Kong never fails to disappoint. A city at the forefront of multiculturalism, culinary creations and a mecca for the fashionista - why would it? To any discerning millennial traveller, this metropolis is a pit stop in an onward journey searching for a diff erent adventure, R&R and a change in tempo. Being on the city’s doorstep, Indonesia has long played host to these eager jet-setters, off ering renowned restaurants, rice paddy retreats and islands galore. But there are some new players on these shores who are keen to embrace this new wave of millennials.

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

In an age of increasing uncertainty, ‘Generation Y’ are foregoing the outdated priorities once instilled by generations before them, exchanging deposits for experiences and reshaping the economy in an aggressive pursuit of happiness.

China rate travel as a higher priority than saving for a home or car, starting a family - or even paying off debt. Putting aside ‘experiential expenses’ is the new norm, as they seek unique and enriched experiences that create invaluable memories.

The Upper House Hong Kong

and incredibly peaceful (with options of either harbour or island views), complete with warm tones, bespoke artworks and a series of signature touches – including oversized spainspired bathrooms with walk-in rain showers, dressing areas and limestoneclad bathtubs. Feeling restless? A well-equipped gym awaits, as well as weekend yoga sessions on the lawn.

Occupying the top fl oors of one of Hong Kong Island’s many skyscrapers is The Upper House, a calming escape from the relentless pace of the city. Meticulously designed by Andre Fu, a harmonious contemporary blend of serenity and tranquility lies at its core, creating one of the most exclusive hotels in Asia – if not the world.

Escape even higher to level 49 and you’ll arrive at Café Gray Deluxe – an equally dramatic and impressive restaurant and bar, serving innovative cuisine from leading Chef Gray Kunz. A truly cosmopolitan ambiance often frequented by ‘who’s who’ - all admired from beautifully upholstered interiors set against the unforgettable city skyline.

Rooms are spacious, immaculate

upperhouse.com

This generation are tired of being forced to think outside the box, remain competitive and get creative with their careers, new research shows that millennials in the UK, US and

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TokyoLima Hong Kong This new late-night restaurant is causing a stir within the city – and rightly so. Positioned in the heart of town, TokyoLima has introduced Nikkei cuisine onto the scene, serving dishes that skillfully balance the heat of Peru with the delicate fl avours of Japan. Chef Arturo Melendez takes diners on a unique culinary journey, having created an inventive menu containing daring combinations infusing both South American and Japanese ingredients. The elegant décor, dimly lit tables and punchy tunes add to the buzzing ambiance of this stylish newcomer, proving a real hit amongst foodies all over. tokyolima.hk

The Legian Bali Bali

Modern suites are equipped with subtle décor sourced locally, complete with all the amenities and connectivity any discerning traveller would expect, and all extend to generous balconies with unobstructed sunsets.

Often considered the crown jewel of Bali, The Legian Bali is a beachfront haven on the shores of Seminyak. Renowned for its elegantly understated thelegianbali.com interiors, luxurious amenities and personable service, guests come here to enjoy the best Bali has to off er. Being walking distance from the islands chicest boutiques, stylish beach clubs and top restaurants – it’s hard to justify staying anywhere else.

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Nihiwatu Bali

trendsetters, older couples to groups of friends - all well-travelled, ahead of the game and geared up for a truly memorable experience.

Currently voted No.1 hotel in the world by ‘Travel + Leisure’, Nihiwatu nihiwatu.com can only truly be appreciated once experienced. Travellers prepared to make the journey to Sumba Island are well rewarded with true barefoot luxury, set amongst pristine beaches, quiet forests and traditional villages.

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

Villas are all seductively designed with oversized beach relics, traditional textiles and colourful cushions – complete with oversized day beds for siestas by your private pool. Time is occupied by long lunches in the sun; beach horse rides and lazy afternoons by the infi nity pool – eying up guests eager to surf Nihiwatu’s infamous wave ‘Occy’s Left’. A scenic hike or gallop through neighboring rice paddies will lead you to Nihioka, where their ‘spa safari’ experience will see you succumb to unlimited treatments from a private cabana above the ocean. A truly discreet location attracting a diverse crowd – anyone from young honeymooners to millennial -32-

Ashley Cooper @Travusso Ashley Cooper is the director and founder of Travūsso, a creative consultancy firm for clients in the luxury space, which focuses on designing and creating bespoke experiences and strategies that are unique, on-brand and entirely memorable. Travusso.com


How to fuel your workout PROFESSIONAL NUTRIONALIST JAMES C OL L INS P R OVIDES S OME T IPS ON WHAT T O E AT, A S W E L L A S W H E N T O E AT, T O B E ST ENHACE YOUR CHOSEN EXERCISE REGIME.

We are nearing Spring. The weather is improving and most of us already have one eye on Summer. There are lots of different opportunities to get fit in London without the usual ‘death by treadmill’ at the local gym. They range from pop up spin classes with the latest deep house music, HIIT classes for the short, high-intensity exercise blast, or with the better weather the more appealing early morning run around one of London’s Royal parks.

The most important starting point is to sort out what you are eating before your workout, as this will either enhance or reduce your results from the exercise

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– it’s that important. So, first up let’s get our language right: we often refer to the pre-training feeding as ‘fuelling’ at it provides the energy (fuel) for the muscles during training. There is no blanket right or wrong answer to what to eat before our workout. It’s first important to look at the type of session and what you are trying to achieve. The graphic on the following page provides guides on the two things to consider when choosing what to eat:

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

Once you have committed to your exercise programme each week, the

food you eat and importantly the time you eat it, can dramatically enhance your results. In previous issues, we’ve laid the foundations of how the world’s top performers use the principles of Performance Nutrition. In this feature, we get into some more detail on what can make the difference to you each day, to help you look, feel and perform better.


The fuel your body requires depends on 2 of the key Performance Nutrition principles: 1 . T HE GOAL

2 . T HE ACT I VI T Y

Goal 1: Leaning up – Reducing body fat

Low Fuel - For longer, low intensity endurance sessions (e.g. long steady run, cycle) - reduce the carbs A longer-term goal - priming the body to breakdown beforehand (called ‘training low’). For shorter aerobic its fat stores and use as fuel during the workout (called sessions (< 1 hour) - Training fasted (e.g. before ‘oxidising’ fat, or more commonly known as, ‘fat breakfast) is generally fine. burning’). This encourages the body to adapt to the training, Most effective pre-training? Training fasted (before making it more efficient at using fat as fuel (fat breakfast) or having a high protein, low-carb meal. burning). Goal 2: Performance – Top performance (e.g. Running a half marathon race)

Options: Omelette, Greek yoghurt and chia pot.

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When the exercise is a higher intensity, the body uses more carbohydrates as fuel, as they can be broken down quicker for energy (a ‘quicker currency’).

High Fuel - For harder training (e.g. 10k race, hard HIIT session) - as soon as the intensity increases the body uses more carbohydrate as fuel.

If you know the session is going to be a monster – go Most effective pre-training? Having a carb-based in fuelled! meal before. Options: Porridge, quinoa salad, tortilla with lean Ultimately, your pre-workout meal will change based meat. on whether you need to fuel for a high intensity session or are reducing the carbs to lean up longer term.

YOUR OVER AL L PL AN Some sessions will be ok on low fuel. Some will need to be fuelled. Plan and make this decision on a Sunday, when planning your week.

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“There are lots of different opportunities to get fit in London without the usual ‘death by treadmill’ at the local gym. ” Understanding what to eat pre and post workout is a great start, but where most people fall down is not having a practical plan in place to eat well day to day. Many new clients I see admit to being ‘stuck in a rut’ – preparing the same meals each night at home, and visiting the same café chain for the same sandwich, during the working week. Take Ownership The starting point to taking ownership and driving your nutrition, is building a 15 minute planning slot into your weekend. This is where the Mind & Body element of performance nutrition is key.

Key questions to plan your week ahead: • • • •

What are the work, training and travel plans next week? When will shopping take place? When will you try out a new recipe? Are there any ‘pressure points’ next week that require extra planning? (e.g. travel, social occasions)

Have a recipe ‘go to’ Some of the biggest frustrations shared by many is 1) recipes take too long to prepare or 2) contain too many ingredients which need to be sourced from different locations. I hear you and that’s why I’ve challenged our chefs to ensure all recipes are under 15 minutes but also contain no more than 10 ingredients: Sunday - Prep and perform Picture this - the shopping is done and you’re in the driving seat! Now it’s time to get creative. The expression ‘food prep’ often conjures the image of multiple Tupperware containers in the fridge, with lots of bland meals – enough to bring anyone out in a cold sweat! When we use the term preparation – this is about what meals can be batch prepared on the Sunday to eat during the week, to cut down the admin after work. Sunday is a prime time to prepare -35-

meals to keep in the fridge for Monday and Tuesday. If you prefer to cook as you go, that’s fine too - just having the ingredients ready to prepare dinner after the gym on Monday and Tuesday will get the week off to a great start.

James Collins Jamescollinsnutrition.com @JamesnCollins1 James Collins is Head of Nutrition at Arsenal Football Club. He’s worked with some of the world’s best atheletes over the last decade within Olympic and professional sport.

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Take the time to relax with a coffee and fully engage in your week ahead - without setting your week out in this way, you will just follow the same old habits, which have brought the same old results.

With any new programme it’s important for you to challenge yourself and to think differently about your nutrition. Start slow and plan one new recipe to try out each week. You will be amazed at how quickly your confidence and cooking repertoire grows!


Soho House & Co and Sydell Group x CODE Careers

Join The N for the o What’s your background and where did your career begin?

Michele Nargi

I’m from Italy – I moved to London when I was 19 and worked for Zafferano in Knightsbridge. I moved to Shoreditch House in 2012 as the executive chef for four years before coming to The Ned.

Executive Chef for Cecconi’s, Ned’s Club & Malibu Kitchen

How did you start working for the Ned?

Tell us a little more about what we can expect with Cecconi’s?

I heard about it internally and had a look at the plans. As soon as I heard I was so curious and I had a little tour, it didn’t disappoint.

Cecconi’s will pretty much have the same indulgent staples as its sister restaurants in Mayfair, Berlin, Barcelona, Istanbul, Miami and West Hollywood. It’s a classic Italian menu and we’ll also have two wood-fired ovens. What’s your favourite dish on the menu? Spaghetti lobster – it’s a timeless classic. It will always be in fashion. What opportunities are there at Cecconi’s? We’re looking for a head chef at Cecconi’s. Someone passionate and hardworking is key. What most excites you about working at The Ned? It’s a unique offering - this has never been done before in London - not many people would think to do this. It’s going to be a really special place.

Ian Daw

tartare is a classic - simple, modern and full of flavour. What opportunities are there at the events space? I’m looking for restaurant chefs – I want individuals who understand the dishes and have that passion, and love doing events. What’s your background and where did your career begin? My last role was executive chef at Rocket Food - a bespoke events company in Battersea. I was there for three years. I‘ve done all sorts of events; Kate Moss’s 40th, Elton John’s summer parties... Prior to that I was at Rhubarb for three years. I started my career at Gravetye Manor, it was an experience that really opened my eyes- we caught our own fish, and had incredible kitchen gardens. That’s where I learned the cooking techniques that I have today.

Head Chef, Events Spaces

How did you start working for the Ned?

Tell us a little more about what we can expect with the events spaces?

I had a contact at Soho House who told me about the role.

The offering in the events spaces are all about fun. We’ve got six rooms and two outdoor spaces with amazing views – perfect for a party on a Friday night with canapés and champagne. What’s your favourite dish on the menu? We’ve got nine menus for this floor! But the steak


Ned family opening be a part of the opening is a once in a career opportunity. What’s your background and where did your career begin?

Tank (Jason Loy) Head Chef for Millie’s Lounge, The Nickel Bar and Lutyens Grill Tell us a little more about what we can expect with Millie’s Lounge? Millie’s Lounge is a beautiful English brasserie, that’s open 24/7. It’s going to have the best sourced ingredients – lots of seasonal pickings. What’s your favourite dish on the menu? It would have to be the terrine. I love making terrines because they are like little works of art. It takes a bit of experience to do these properly- when you nail them they’re the best thing on the menu. The salt marsh lamb is also great – the black garlic and Dijon rub gives it an extra unexpected element.

I grew up in New South Wales in Australia and did my apprenticeship there. I moved to Sydney for five years and worked in lots of seafood restaurants, then I came to London in 2008. In 2009 I moved to Electric House and then to Dean Street Townhouse in 2010. After that I headed to Hoxton Grill as head chef for 8 months, before returning to Dean Street Townhouse as head chef. My last role was head chef at Cafe Monico on Shaftesbury Avenue, before coming here. How did you start working for The Ned? I was approached at Cafe Monico – and it evolved from there.

What opportunities are there at Millie’s?

For further information about opportunities to work at The Ned, please email: careers@thened.com

We’re looking for chefs of all levels, the whole brigade. There is going to be a great development programme here too - lots of training and lots of opportunities. What most excites you about working at The Ned? The building itself. It’s just exciting walking into it. To

Luke Rayment Executive Chef for Millie’s Lounge,The Nickel Bar and Lutyens Grill Tell us a little more about what we can expect with the Lutyens Grill? The Lutyens Grill is an American-style steakhouse, with trolleys and gueridon

service for members and hotel guests. We’ll be serving top quality steaks from both here and America. What’s your favourite dish on the menu? The Porterhouse. It’s been supplied by a small artisan farm that’s growing the cattle in amazing surroundings - it has an outstanding amount of marbling through it. What opportunities are there at the Lutyens Grill? We’re looking for chefs at all levels, from commis chefs through to sous chefs. What most excites you about working at The Ned? The fact that it’s going to be the biggest opening this year. And it has such a wide variety of restaurants within one building. What’s your background and where did your career begin? I’m originally from Australia and I’ve been cooking since I was 22 years old. I came over to London 11 years ago and in that time I’ve been at Smith’s’ of Smithfield, the Savoy Grill and Claridge’s. Before The Ned I was Executive Chef at the Mondrian London. How did you start working for The Ned? I was at 76 Dean Street with UK Director Tom Collins and he mentioned The Ned was looking for executive chefs. There are a lot of opportunities in the group, which all the staff hear about frequently.


Starstruck Are we over the much-hyped restaurant guides and lists? The answer is yes according to Callum Edge.

M

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

ichelin is regarded as the restaurant-goers’ Bible. Each year, the famous Red Guide publishes its recommendations on the best cooking around the world. But now, even Michelin’s most dedicated supporters – chefs, critics and enthusiasts alike – are having a difficult time taking its word as gospel. It’s time we realised that restaurant guides and awards are a murky business that has very little to do with food. To some, this is by no means news: Bourdain, Chang, Gill, Rayner, among many, have already shared their dissenting views on this juggernaut of restaurant guides. It’s generally felt that Michelin has indirectly encouraged a form of cooking by rote – splodge here, dot there, crisp carb atop blushing protein – and, as a result, the lure of the star has hindered the creative process. The Guide only elevates a “robotic cuisine” that does not dare change because of its “winning formula”, said Daniel Boulud after losing his third star in 2015. This lack of individuality, in part, has contributed to the world of “Chef-asproper-noun; table-as-altar” (hat tip, George Reynolds). It’s created a fiercely competitive kitchen environment and has encouraged a narrative of the infallible Chef, ruthless in the pursuit of ‘perfection’. Noma’s René Redzepi

has openly spoken about being on both ends of bullying and humiliation tactics in order to get the most from a cook, all in the name of Michelin.

with the World’s 50 Best, El Celler Can Roca reportedly had to hire extra staff just to let people know that they couldn’t get a booking.

But a similar tale can be said of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, which replaced the sour-faced, box-ticking of Michelin with its own faux-impartial mundanity. Its pro-European, masculine bias has only reinforced the previous model, all the while being excused as the fault of “society on the whole” by the group editor, William Drew. We’ve swapped one hungry monster for another.

This works for a chosen few restaurants, but has elevated a style of cooking wholly out of touch with the way people really eat. Tasting menus, wine flights, and table-side theatrics are all rather how the other half (a percent) lives. It’s a cosy way of experiencing food from other cultures through the framework of one’s own – and all yours for £200 (and rising) per head. Without booze.

“It’s time we realised that restaurant guides and awards are a murky business that has very little to do with food. ” One effect of such awards, whilst difficult to monitor precisely, is great: after winning a star in 2012, Alyn Williams of Mayfair’s Westbury Hotel suggested that bookings doubled in 24 hours and, after getting to the top spot -38-

According to the World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ own rules, the panel should visit anonymously and pay their way, and yet food blogger Elizabeth Auerbach tells me that “one does not get the impression that this always is the case”. Leaked email correspondence


from panel members announcing their arrival and demanding “an unforgettable experience” seem to just be the tip of the île flottante. Below the surface, you’ll find accounts of government tourist boards air-bussing over journalists on all-expenses-paid gastro-trips in the hope of putting their region’s restaurants on the map, as well as the internal lobbying of judges.

Japan, Seoul, Shanghai, and Singapore appears to be more about rubber than restaurants. Similar questions can be raised of the Guide’s relationship with tourist boards and other sponsors. In some ways, there has been improvement. The soundbite from chefs in London of late is increasingly “I’m not doing it to get a star”. Indeed,

“Tasting menus, wine flights, and table-side theatrics are all rather how the other half (a percent) lives.” two former Michelin big-hitters Phil Howard and Claude Bosi have relocated from Mayfair to the leafy neighbourhood of Chelsea with Elystan Street and Bibendum, respectively. The landscape is different; fine dining has “had a bad name”, suggests Bosi – and producing food “in keeping with the wants of Londoners” is essential, says Howard. But every year when the lists get published, newspaper columns are

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As Eater’s Ryan Sutton has written, “the compelling story is how such a purportedly inclusive [hospitality] community could be so exuberant over a list that excludes so many”. Indeed, by continuing to hold these flawed, self-serving awards as the pinnacle of achievement, we will fail to see the emerging category of modernstyle restaurants recognised and an accurate representation of the industry portrayed.

Callum Edge @edgeandspoon

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

Neither is Michelin beyond such criticism. A 2011 internal company study showed that the presence of the Guide in a country meant that people were up to three per cent more likely to buy its tyres over other brands. When the worth of the global tyre market (estimated at £200 billion) is put into perspective – and with the Asia/Pacific region accounting for, by far, the largest demand – the recent Michelin expansion into Hong Kong,

filled with the idea that these guides are canon. This helps fuel the notion that pleasing the whims of such fantastical authorities is necessary to succeed in the hospitality industry. Michelin’s continued ‘accidental’ leaks are laughed-off as gaffes, but I’d wage that their ‘mistakenly’ awarding a star to a café in France in this year’s guide was a deliberate move to give them more worldwide exposure.


Eat. Drink. Design. S

treet food is booming. And not just in London, but across the whole country. As its popularity has grown so has its reach into the mass market. The term ‘street food’ can now be found in supermarket aisles and on packaged products. Whilst you may not get much change from a tenner these days, the quality and playfulness of the dishes matches many of the top restaurants out there. As for the design, it’s equally as imaginative.

serving up only a couple of dishes. The focus is certainly on quality, not quantity. This focus carries through into design, which plays a really important role in street food. With so many vendors often squeezed in to rows next to each other, good design can give you a clear advantage. It’s testament to how far street food has come, that over the last year or so, many restaurateurs cite street food vendors as their inspiration.

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

I caught up with three diff erent operators - Street food off ers chefs and vendors more each with very diff erent success stories - but freedom and adventure. It’s more energetic. all showcase how well-considered design Quite often this results in a more minimalist helps them present their product. approach to menus, with many vendors

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Sub Cult | Ben Chancellor As a resident of south east London, most weekends I’m lulled towards the smells of Brockley Market, and whilst the Spit and Roast is a favourite, it’s the Sub Cult guys that stand out in the college car park. They combine a black and white van – dubbed the ‘Sub roller’ with slick American-inspired graphics to create an instantly appealing stall. I caught up with co-founder Ben Chancellor to find out more.

met at one 17 years ago. He met his wife at one too, staggered over her as the story goes! Thems’ were the days. How did you decide on the name and look? Did you work closely with a designer?

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Lastly, what advice would you give from a design and branding perspective for a newcomer street food vendor? I’ve been asked this before and everyone’s different so I’d say work with intuitive people you admire and are in tune with, like my friend and designer Tom of Plastic Crayons and to begin with what you love, have fun with your imagination and work back from there, pruning back till all your ducks line up. In essence be your own worst critic and spend more time in the bath.

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

The name and approach came to me in the bath actually. American hot sandwiches were already on the mind and Gareth had been complementing it Where did the idea for your street too. At the time I was bopping around food truck come from? Was it a a lot in fleets of 60’s Italian scooters and homemade customisation? dancing to soul with mates dressed up to the nines. I wanted to tie that way of life The van is a reflection of Sub Cult. It’s in and Sub Cult sat well for us. Grime retrospective yet timeless, a bit rough is the sub culture of present times, it’s a around the edges but hopefully sharp to fascinating truly subterranean one in the admirer. It was always the intention origin. As they always are. You could say to approach this whole venture with the London street food is, or certainly was in essence of the brand dovetailing with some capacity actually, not fully fathomed the food. Sub Cult is a play on words, in the mainstream. It’s in full swing now obviously we do subs as best we can but though. we don’t sacrifice goats under a full moon to Baal! Youth sub cultures fascinate me. Do you think street vendors need a This little island has been responsible for different type of identity to a physical the overwhelmingly majority centred on restaurant? music and style. I can’t keep it up at my age though or I’d be in danger of having That’s a great question. Yes and no. a ‘Mod’ life crisis. My business partner There’s a culture for it in the game, an Gareth was a raver in the 90’s, actually we undercurrent, but brand value is relative

and product dependent to an extent. We’re seeing some great new brands out there and good traders with strong products now investing time and money in rebranding. It really does depend what your end goal is. I think those doing the fun casual finger food have more incentive to harness their brand from the offset as there’s a lot of us, which is great for the food industry. Whether the brand plays a part in setting outfits apart is subjective, it’s about the food primarily.


Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

Frankie Goes To BollyWood | Monty Bhurjee Whilst strictly not a food stall, Frankie Goes to Bollywood took the influence of street food as a kick-start for their promotional soft launch, before launching their street food in a permanent location. Their food is described as Bombay-style street food built around British classics. Their weird sense of humour is also perfectly captured in the design identity, if there’s one reason to visit it’s for the genius chicken wing packaging. I spoke with owner Monty Bhurjee about his inspiration.

launch at Winter Wonderland in a truck before opening our doors in Deptford. Nonetheless the design and branding played a vital part in catching the eye of passers by and conveying the message of the brand. It sets us apart from others in the food scene and will define us going forward.

You started life as a food truck before setting up a permanent spot this year. How important was the design and branding in that process?

I’ve worked with designer Lauren Archer for many years and she played an integral part in curating Frankie Goes to Bollywood. We work well together and she totally gets my unusual sense of humour.

We didn’t actually start out as street food traders, we did a promotional soft

It seems like you guys had a lot of fun with the menu. How did you want this to come across in the design? Did you work closely with a designer?

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Did you notice any differences in what you needed for a truck and what you needed for a restaurant? Fitting out a truck and fitting out a diner are completely different beasts. A diner’s work is never done. You can do your best to relay the identity of the brand in the aesthetics of a truck but ultimately the full experience translates in bricks and mortar. The Indian Colonel was a stroke of genius - where did this come from? The colonel was my wacky idea. A little controversial but something that makes people laugh out loud. We wanted to have tandoori fried chicken on the menu TFC. No brainer.


MEATliquor (MEATwagon) | Yianni Papoutsis I spoke with Yianni Papoutsis, co-Founder and creative director of MEATliquor, one of the most successful street food-torestaurant stories out there. MEATliquor began life as a humble meat wagon (it was an old American ambulance) that pulled into car parks across south east London, but they have now gone on to own nine restaurants across the UK, with a site in King’s Cross opening shortly. Design and art is a big part of their restaurant interiors, and taking in to account their original wagon, they certainly have a keen eye for good design. You guys were right at the start of the London street food revolution - how has it changed since then? Back in the nascent days of the current street food trend, it was very ad-hoc. It’s evolved to become very mainstream with a huge number of operators centred around semi-permanent street food markets rather than in car parks and industrial estates.

Design and creativity is a large part of your restaurants - was it something you’d always been interested in?

Lastly, from a creative point of view, what advice would you give to startup street food vendors?

Scott’s (Collins, co-founder) pubs always had a great aesthetic and I have history of working within the arts, specifically in ballet and opera production. So the visual side has always been important to both of us.

Initially, it’s important to focus all your creative energy on the product itself. Don’t even begin to think about branding, t-shirts or a cool van until you’ve got your core product nailed.

It’s been noted that you’ve worked with lots of designers and artists through the years - how do you go about selecting them? We’ve worked with Shed Design and I Love Dust for all our sites. Each site is different and we’ve always approached each one separately and on its own merits. We’re often inspired and influenced by the history of the local area or the building itself. Additionally we’ve worked with numerous graffiti artists, including Inkie who curated the art in our Bristol site.

James Wood @designedbyjaw James Wood is co-owner of creative agency ShopTalk London. shoptalklondon.com

Issue Issue10 9 ||Winter Spring 2016 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

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Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

Textures

â&#x20AC;&#x153;After all, good hospitality is - all puns intended about making guests feel good.â&#x20AC;? -44-


C

omfort and pleasure arise through a synesthetic comprehension of the surrounding environment at a given moment in time. All five senses are constantly capturing the fine nuances of an experience, gathering endless queues that give us an everchanging measure of how good or bad we feel. When going out for a meal we have immediate thoughts about flavours, smells, how much we are being charged, the quality of the service, how loud the music was, etc. And yet an evening can be ruined by variables that do not cross our conscious self; seemingly irrelevant things such as the rough edge of a bar stool or the unpleasantness of a cheap toilet paper.

Indeed, most of our time at a restaurant or bar is not spent with either food or drinks in our mouths. On the other hand, we are constantly touching objects and surfaces, with our skin and body pressed against some kind of material with a specific temperature, density and relief. At the same time our eyes continuously capture the range of overlapping visual layers. The only uninterrupted stream of stimuli shaping our experience of a place are visual and material textures. Having trained as an architect - and, mea culpa, being more than slightly OCD - I’ve developed a painfully analytical mindset that gets me doing mental assessments of materials and design choices wherever I am. When it comes to either working or eating at a restaurant, being disturbed by how a surface feels or looks can ruin my meal as much as a poorly cooked dish. The fact is, whether you’re fully aware of these variables or not, they are crucial to the level of satisfaction you can get from your night out. After all, good hospitality is - all puns intended about making guests feel good.

But informed guests are increasingly aware of how texture impacts the quality of food and wine and are able to articulate how smoothness,

The service industry has evolved dramatically to become a holistic provider for all senses. This was always the case but only now do we objectively think of branding and interior design as part of the same conceptual process as menu development. A premium offering is always linked to a more thoughtful (i.e. relentless) combination of rich and complex textures that bridges the gap between what goes into the design brief as a concept and what is required from a venue on a daily basis. -45-

These are the subtleties that appeal to our inner instinct of what is good: the difference it makes to have a luscious napkin in your lap; the grip and weight of the right cutlery (and whether it is properly polished! – such a rare event these days); the right thickness and diameter of a water glass; the relief and reflection ratio of a wall. All of these fall into the category of variables that the less analytical mind might struggle to describe but whose impact on a place’s narrative is key. That little prickle in your arm and lips? That slight discomfort that never got you to lay back on your chair? The food was great, the wine as good, but there was ‘something’ that simply did not feel quite right.

Ines Salpico @InesSalpico Ines Salpico is a sommelier, artist and writer.

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

How puzzling it is, then, that one doesn’t explicitly think of textures as a key variable to how a place, well, feels. Touch is an often forgotten sense, dismissed or overlooked by designers, managers and staff alike. Many a brief, when planning the opening of the next-new-cool-place-in-town, simply lacks information and thought on this. Not surprisingly, project design and delivery often miss it as well. It’s one of those bullet points that mark the difference between straight competence and true excellence.

crunchiness, viscosity and fluidity affect the pleasantness of a dish or drink. It’s therefore not surprising that those same customers are also more and more alert to design textural details. This is obvious in the proactive way people now ask about where napkins, tablecloths or furniture were sourced from. How does a table feel? Cold and smooth as only marble can be? Warm as solid wood? But is the wood polished and varnished or can one feel the tiny ridges of a rough plank? Are the walls painted with shiny acrylic paint or are there custom design tiles? Consider how these give a clear hint about a venue’s atmosphere and identity.


Down Mexico way

In association with Bon Vivant Travel

With its favourable weather and a direct 10 hour flight from London, the Riviera Maya in Mexico makes an excellent choice for a winter getaway. And the food scene is going from strength to strength with all eyes on noma when it opens in Tulum next month. CODE recently visited Mexico’s east coast and here’s our pick of the best hotels.

Belmond Maroma With a jungle setting next to a beach with dazzlingly white soft sand, Belmond Maroma is a true Mayan dream. The Hacienda style resort is authentic in all senses: the lush, verdant landscape that surrounds the rooms is home to parrots and a multitude of native birds that chirp away – happy to call the Belmond Maroma home. Rooms are designed in an understated Mexican style with tiled floors, thatched roofs with exposed beams and bamboo window and door covers. Make sure to book a room with

ocean views where, if you need to shelter from the midday sun, you can relax peacefully on the hammock on your secluded terrace. The sea is a glorious multitude of blues, which is due to its privileged location on one of the prettiest beaches in the area. There are two main restaurants and a sushi / ceviche bar, but our favourite spot to dine is by soft candlelight on the terrace of the Mexican restaurant, El Restaurante, with the sea breeze and crashing waves as the perfect backdrop. belmond.com/maroma-resort-and-spa-riviera-maya

Hotel Esencia

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

Originally built as the private home of an Italian duchess, Hotel Esencia sits on a 50-acre estate on the white sand of Xpu-Ha in the Mayan Riviera. Quiet and exclusive, the property has only 29 rooms, including sea or garden views with large terraces and private plunge pools. The vibe here is laid-back luxury – perfect for relaxation and getting away from it all. Enjoy complimentary yoga classes on the beach each morning before spending the day in the hammock on your terrace or on the beach. Hotel Esencia’s location makes it an excellent spot to explore Tulum and the area’s Mayan ruins. Esencia offers barefoot luxury at its best. hotelesencia.com

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Banyan Tree Mayakoba There are no standard rooms at the Banyan Tree Mayakoba, but a collection of freestanding private villas ranging from one to three bedrooms, each with a pool and large outdoor area. Most of the villas are in-land, many overlooking the lagoon, but the most exclusive are located next to the beach. Families should book a townhouse, with three interconnected bedrooms and a rooftop pool – plenty of space for privacy and relaxation. Banyan Tree’s Thai heritage and Asian-inspired design is evident at every turn. A large, beautiful open plan lobby captures this feeling with its use of dark wood and dramatic view of the lagoon, and in the villas, handcrafted Mayan furnishings and amenities complement the Asian design. The signature restaurant, Saffron, offers modern Thai cuisine with a romantic candlelit setting on the lagoon. Mixing Asian design and hospitality with its Riviera Maya beach-side jungle location, the Banyan Tree blends seamlessly into its surroundings.

Rosewood Mayakoba The Rosewood Mayakoba is an all suite property that is luxurious in all respects. The 130 suites - built along serene lagoons - come with rooftop sundecks or private garden terraces, plunge pools and boat docks. The best suites, however, are located on the beach, where you can step out on to the sand from your bedroom.

banyantree.com/en/em-mexico-mayakoba

Every guest at the Rosewood Mayakoba is taken to the room in a river boat, escorted by a butler while enjoying a welcome drink. Suites are spacious and offer open plan living, designed in neutral colours made from limestone and wood.

rosewoodhotels.com/en/mayakoba-riviera-maya

Emyr Thomas @BonVivantLiving Emyr Thomas is the founder of Bon Vivant, a luxury travel and concierge service based in London with global coverage. Book through Bon Vivant for access to free upgrades, breakfast and restaurant and spa credits. bonvivant.co.uk

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Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

There are two large pool areas, including one next to the beach and one of the restaurants, Punta Bonita, which offers Mexican cuisine served ‘tapas’ style. Our favourite restaurant, however, is Agave Azul with its excellent sushi and views of the lagoon and the mangroves. Make sure to head to the beach for midday ‘Champagne O’clock’ to enjoy your complimentary glass of Taittinger on your sunlounger.


Instagram spotlight

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

In this feature we shine a light on our favourite Instagram accounts. Follow chef @clodagh_mckenna for an insight into what sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cooking.

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24 hours in Vienna CODE’s Adam Hyman jumped on the ÖBB from Innsbruck to spend the weekend in Vienna. Here’s some places worth checking out in the Austrian capital.

Stay | Hotel Altstadt

11am | Café Central

The Altstadt is a boutique hotel housed in a 19th century town house in the 7th district of Vienna. The 45-room property is spread across fi ve fl oors and jammed with modern works of art by Gilbert & George and Andy Warhol. Their breakfast is a real highlight with a continental buff et spread with local cheeses, hams and homemade bread.

A visit to one of Vienna’s many traditional cafés is a must and Café Central on Herengasse is ideally located for an elevenses – traditionally a melange and slice of Sachertorte. The café fi rst opened in 1876 and was regularly frequented by Sigmund Freud.

Kirchengasse 41, 1070 +43 1 5226666 alstadt.at

Herrengasse 14, 1010 +43 1 5333763 cafecentral.wien

Lunch | Mochi

3pm | Bitzinger Würstelstand

Amongst all the schnitzel, Sachertorte and Grüner there’s been a big surge in Asian cuisine in Vienna. Mochi is a tiny, welldesigned Japanese sushi bar that opened in 2012 and is owned by Tobi Müller from Germany and Eduard Dimant from Israel. The restaurant, tucked behind the Sofi tel in the 2nd District, is popular so go early or late.

This sausage stand tucked behind the opera house is meant to be the best in Vienna. It’s constantly busy with locals enjoying a quick Käsekrainer and chilled beer in between meetings. Bitzinger makes for a perfect pit stop for a mid-afternoon snack. Albertinaplatz, 1010 +43 664 88622428 bitzinger-wien.at

Praterstraße 15, 1020 +4319251380 mochi.at

7pm | The Bank bar, Park Hyatt Vienna The Park Hyatt opened up back in 2014 in the former headquarters of Bank Austria in Am Hof Square. The aptly named Bank bar is located in the large atrium along with the hotel’s large restaurant. Lots of marble, mother of pearl and well-heeled Viennese make it a cosy setting for a pre-dinner cocktail. Am Hof 2, 1010 +43 1 227401234 vienna.park.hyatt.com

9pm | Skopik & Lohn

Leopoldsgasse 17, 1020 +43 1 2198977 skopikundlohn.at -49-

This neighbourhood bar in Vienna’s 6th district is co-owned by architects Gregorio Santanmaria Lubroth and Chieh-shu Tzou, an actress, a restaurateur and a graphic designer, who teamed up to design, build and launch the bar. The focal piece is the installation on the ceiling while the rest of the bar’s décor remains very simple. Perfect fi nal spot for a G&T surrounded by a creative Viennese crowd. Gumpendorfer Str. 10, 1060 +43 1 9132132 ifdogsrunfree.com

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

The 2nd district, also known as the Leopoldstadt, is the former Jewish quarter of Vienna and this is where Horst and Connie Scheuer opened Skopik & Lohn in 2006. The restaurant has a hearty Austrian menu and serves one of the best Wiener Schnitzels in the city. The dining room’s ceiling is also a focal point for diners thanks to artist Otto Zitko’s doodle.

11pm | If Dogs Run Free


Last orders Josh Katz of Berber & Q serves up a hearty braised egg shakshuka for this Quarterlyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s post-shift recipe

Braised egg shakshuka with garlic yoghurt, tahina & zhug

Ingredients â&#x20AC;&#x201C; serves 4

Method

2 tbsp olive oil

Preheat oven to 180°C. Sweat the onions and garlic in olive oil on a medium heat until softened and translucent. Add the red pepper and diced chilli and cook for 5-7 minutes until the pepper softens.

1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 red pepper, chopped 1 red chilli, finely chopped 2 tsp smoked paprika 1 tbsp hot pepper paste (if available) or else 1tbsp tomato puree 500g tin plum tomatoes 1 tsp chilli flakes

Issue 10 | Spring 2017 | codehospitality.co.uk

8 eggs 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, chopped

Add the paprika and cook for 1 minute, then stir in the hot pepper paste and cook for a further 2 minutes. Add the tinned tomatoes and chilli flakes and bring to simmering point. Allow to gently simmer for 20 minutes on a low heat. Transfer the sauce to a wide frying pan able to accommodate 8 eggs. Bring the sauce back to a gentle simmer, create a small well with a spoon in which to crack and accommodate each egg. Cook for 1-2 minutes then transfer to oven for a further 5-7 minutes. The eggs are cooked when the white is set but the yolk remains runny.

Garlic yoghurt To serve, remove the pan from the oven, sprinkle with parsley and dot with dollops of garlic yoghurt, tahina sauce and Zhug. Finish with a final drizzle of olive oil. Serve with toasted or grilled sourdough bread or some pita.

Tahina Zhug

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The CODE app directory LONDON 28°-50° Maddox Street 28°-50° Marylebone Lane 45 Jermyn St. 46 & Mercy All Star Lanes Bayswater All Star Lanes Brick Lane All Star Lanes Holborn Ametsa with Arzak Instruction Aqua Kyoto Aqua Nueva BAO Fitzrovia Bar Boulud Beagle Beagle Bar Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill BungaTINI Cafe Monico Cafe Murano Covent Garden Cafe Murano St. James’s Ceviche Old St CHICKENliquor Chicken Shop Whitechapel Chicken Shop Kentish Town Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels Corrigan’s, Mayfair Coya Crosstown Doughnuts Soho Crosstown Doughnuts Shoreditch Crumbs & Doilies Damson & Co Dehesa Demon Wise & Partners Dirty Bones Shoreditch Dirty Bones Soho Dirty Burger Shoreditch Dirty Burger Kentish Town Ducksoup Ember Yard EuroCave UK Fox Bar Foxlow Balham Foxlow Chiswick Foxlow Clerkenwell Foxlow Stoke Newington Granger & Co. Clerkenwell Hawksmoor Air Street Hawksmoor Guildhall Hawksmoor Knightsbridge Hawksmoor Seven Dials Hawksmoor Spitalfields Hawksmoor Spitalfields Bar Hélène Darroze at The Connaught

HIX Oyster & Chop House HIX Soho Hixter Bankside Holborn Dining Room Homeslice Old Street Homeslice Wells Street Hutong at The Shard Bar Ibérica Farringdon Ibérica Marylebone Jar Kitchen Jikoni Joe’s Southern Table and Bar Covent Garden José Pizarro Joyeux Bordel Kurobuta Marble Arch Les 110 de Taillevent London Little Bat Little Pitt Lobos Meat & Tapas Soho London Cocktail Club Bethnal Green London Cocktail Club Islington London Cocktail Club Shaftesbury Avenue London Cocktail Club Shoreditch Lucky Voice Soho Marcus Market Mark’s Bar at HIX Soho Mark’s Bar at Hixter Bankside Mark’s Bar at The Old Vic Mason & Company maze MEATliquor N1 MEATliquor W1 MEATmarket MEATmission Megaro Bar Merchants Tavern Oklava Opera Tavern Oriole Outlaw’s at The Capital Passione Vino Paradise Garage Percy & Founders Petit Pois Bistro Pharmacy 2 Picture Marylebone Picture Fitzrovia Pidgin Pip & Nut Pitt Cue

Pizarro Pizza East Kentish Town Pizza Pilgrims Covent Garden Pizza Pilgrims Dean St Pizza Pilgrims Exmouth Market Pizza Pilgrims Kingly St Poco Broadway Market POLPO at Ape & Bird POLPO Notting Hill Radio Rooftop Rawduck Rivington Grill ROKA Aldwych Rotorino SAGER + WILDE Salt Yard Sardine Searcys, One New Change Shuang Shuang Spring Spuntino St Pancras Champagne Bar St. JOHN St. JOHN Bread & Wine St. JOHN Maltby STK London Tandoor Chop House Talli Joe Tapas Brindisa Soho Tapas Brindisa Shoreditch The Club Chinois bar at Park Chinois The Drapers Arms The Frog The Gilbert Scott The Grill at The Dorchester The Gym Group The Hide Bar The Quality Chop House Tonic & Remedy Trailer Happiness Tramshed Tredwell’s Typing Room Union Street Café Union Street Café Bar Veneta Wright Brothers Borough Wright Brothers Soho Wright Brothers Spitalfields Zelman Meats Zoilo

The CODE app is available to anyone working in hospitality. Simply prove your employment in the industry* and enjoy unlimited access to exclusive dining offers for £11.99 a year. * Restaurant, bar, cafe, hotel, private members’ club, catering contractor, street food vendor, commercial airlines and F&B leisure outlet. -51-

NORTH Albert’s Schloss All Star Lanes Almost Famous GN Almost Famous Leeds Almost Famous Liverpool Almost Famous NQ Asha’s Black Dog Ballroom NQ Black Dog Ballroom NWS Bollibar @ Asha’s Bundobust Leeds Bundobust Manchester Burnt Truffle Busaba Liverpool Busaba Manchester Cane & Grain Crazy Pedro’s Part-Time Pizza Parlour Crazy Pedro’s Part Time Pizza Parlour NQ Dog Bowl Don Giovanni Electrik Electrik Bar Evelyn’s Gaucho Leeds Gaucho Manchester Hawksmoor Manchester Home Sweet Home GN Ibérica Manchester Keko Moku Maray MEATliquor Leeds Mughli Knutsford Mughli Rusholme Railway Kitchen & Bar Sticky Walnut Tampopo Albert Square Tampopo Corn Exchange Tampopo Trafford Centre The Alchemist Greek Street The Alchemist NY St The Comedy Store Manchester The Liars Club TNQ Restaurant Volta Volta Bar SOUTH Curry Leaf Café Fourth & Church Indian Summer La Choza

Market Restaurant & Bar MEATliquor Brighton Moshimo POLPO Brighton Riddle & Finns, The Beach Riddle & Finns, The Lanes SILO Terre à Terre The Chilli Pickle The Coal Shed The Salt Room The Set WEST Hyde & Co MEATliquor Bristol Noche Negra Pata Negra Poco Tapas Bar POLPO Bristol Psychopomp Micro-Distillery Sticks & Broth The Ethicurean The Milk Thistle The Ox Bristol The Ox Cheltenham The Ox Clifton SCOTLAND Smith & Gertrude The Refinery The Stockbridge Tuk Tuk Edinburgh Tuk Tuk Glasgow Wedgwood The Restaurant DUBLIN Featherblade TapHouse The Hill

All venues correct at the time of going to print.


CODE Quarterly | Issue 10 | Spring 2017  

Welcome to issue 10 of the CODE Quartely where James Lewis of Gauthier Soho takes a look at hospitality marketing in the post-trump era, Ine...

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