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D inin g | p e r f o r m in g a r t s | ni g h t l i f e | b o o k s | c ine m a D inin g

BP / Gersh Kuntzman


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The Brooklyn Paper’s essential guide to the Borough of Kings

January 22, 2010

Cooking gay!

Pride center publishes recipe book to share the love You certainly don’t have to be gay to take a swing at these recipes. The cookbook’s not a campy, flamboyant stereorooklyn will soon be home to the city’s type like a predecessor, chef Lou Rand Hogan’s “The Gay Cookbook” from 1965, first gay cookbook. Dozens of the borough’s gay- which is full of innuendo and references friendly foodies are coming together and to the reader as “girlfriend.” coming out in Brooklyn Pride’s recipe Instead, Rolan calls her group’s tome compilation, “A Family Table: Recipes a family book that encompasses the gay from Brooklyn’s Gay-owned and Gay- foodie community from Brooklyn’s past and present. friendly Restau It features an rants,” a self-pubb o o k s eclectic mix of lished compendium breakfast, lunch and that’s scheduled for “A Family Table: Recipes from Brooklyn’s Gay-owned and Gaydinner entrees from release on Feb. 18. friendly Restaurants” will be pubthe locals we love. Pride representalished in February. To pre-order a Rolan and the crew tives would not leak copy, visit have even tracked the details until the Copies are $25 (suggested donation). down the borough’s cookbook’s debut, culinary greats, inbut did reveal at least one tasty nugget: the forward is cluding Food Network star Daisy Marwritten by our own gay-friendly Bor- tinez, to share their favorites, step-bystep. ough President Markowitz. The goal of the cookbook is to help The restaurant owners involved couldn’t be happier. gay-owned eateries. “The bad times have hit everybody — “It’s a great idea, and shows we welwe’re trying to support many of the local come everyone like we have since we bars and restaurants that have supported opened in 1987,” said Lee Ornati, cous over the years,” said Zully Rolan, chair- owner of Teddy’s Bar and Grill in Wilwoman of the Brooklyn Pride organiza- liamsburg, which gave us the best lintion. “Plus, for someone like me who can’t guine with winter veggies our carnivorous palate could bear. cook a hill of beans, it’s great.”

Just when you think that the Iris Cafe is in the worst location in the borough, you walk in and can’t find a seat. Though it’s tucked onto a Brooklyn Heights block that is as adverse to foot traffic as the MTA is to fare cuts, the residents of the socalled Willowtown section of the Heights are clearly happy to no longer have to schlep to Montague Street for breakfast. Rachel Graville opened her 20-seat restaurant just after Thanksgiving, serving up organic soft-boiled egg dishes, country ham sandwiches, homemade soups and great baked goods to laptop-tapping writer types. The restaurant will boom if the adjacent section of Brooklyn Bridge Park is ever built, but for now, Graville’s not worried. “We can survive even without the park,” she said. “For one thing, we serve coffee, which is an addictive substance. And we serve breakfast all day, which people like.” The Brooklyn Paper sampled a plate of eggs, Surryano ham, dill and toast ($7.50), a smoked cheddar and ham baguette sandwich ($9), and a deeply satisfying ham biscuit (the value of the century at $2.25). It was a great meal. Now, if we could only find a table. Iris Cafe [20 Columbia Pl. between Joralemon and State streets in Brooklyn Heights, (718) 722-7395]. Closed Mondays. — Gersh Kuntzman

By Andy Campbell The Brooklyn Paper


dinin g

Bogota Bistro co-owners Farid Ali (left) and George Constantinau present Tara Ford (left) and Johanna Petrycki with a plate of plaintain-stuffed French toast.

Linguine with Autumn Vegetables

French Onion Soup

1 medium butternut squash 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup roasted garlic 1/3 pound shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded and caps torn in pieces 1/3 pound oyster mushrooms, torn in pieces 1/3 pound chanterelle mushrooms, torn in pieces 1/2 bunch fresh sage, coarsely chopped 1/2 bunch fresh flat leaf parsley, coarsely chopped 1 cup dry white wine 1 pound greens washed and coarsely chopped (escarole, kale, etc.) 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated 1/2 cup Romano cheese, freshly grated 1/4 cup butter 1 pound dry linguine 1 cup shelled, toasted, chopped pumpkin seeds salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup butter 3 yellow onions, thinly sliced 4 Vidalia onions, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon white sugar 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 2-1/2 cups water 1/2 cup red wine 6 cups beef broth 1 French baguette, sliced into big croutons 8 ounces sliced Swiss cheese or gruyere The Brooklyn Paper / Andy Campbell

(from Teddy’s Bar and Grill) Serves four

(from Belleville restaurant) Serves four

Teddy’s owner Lee Ornati’s contribution to the gay center cookbook is his linguine with winter vegetables.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut off the top of a head of garlic, wrap it in aluminum foil, and roast in oven until soft and fragrant. Use the back of a knife to squeeze the garlic from the skins. Peel and dice the butternut squash, toss with two tablespoons of olive oil, spread on a sheet pan and roast until soft and squash begins to brown a little. In a large frying pan, add the rest of the olive oil and heat. Add all the mushrooms and sauté until their juices evaporate and they start to brown. Add the garlic, the squash, the sage and cook together a couple of minutes. Add the wine and simmer until the wine

evaporates by half. Cook linguine until it is still a bit tough, and reserve about a cup of the cooking water. The pasta will finish cooking in the sauce. Add the greens to the sauce and cook until they wilt. Add the linguine, the reserved cooking water, the butter and the parsley. Toss and cook until linguine is just cooked and the sauce is still a little thin. Add salt and pepper to taste. Take off the heat and add the cheeses, reserving a little for final garnish. Portion the pasta and vegetables on four to six plates depending on whether this is an appetizer or main course, and top with pumpkin seeds.

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Plantain Stuffed French Toast (from Bogota Bistro) Serves five 1 loaf sliced bread 6 eggs 1/2 cup milk 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 tablespoons of honey 2 ripe plantains Green Apple topping (see recipe) Maple syrup Vegetable oil

Peel the plantains and cut them into slices. Heat the vegetable oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Fry plantains until golden on both sides, about five minutes per side. Remove to a plate lined with paper towels and set aside. Combine eggs, milk, ground cinnamon and honey in a shallow wide dish. Dip the slices of bread into the egg

mixture allowing them to soak in on both sides. Butter a non-stick sauté pan. Cook the French toast for two to three minutes on each side, until golden brown (flip only once). Assemble sweet plantains onto five pieces of French toast and press down with a fork. Place remaining five pieces of French toast on top of the sweet plantains. Serve with maple syrup. For the green apple topping 2 green apples, peeled and diced 2 tablespoons of honey 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon cloves

Butter a non-stick sauté pan and cook green apples with cinnamon, cloves and honey for six to eight minutes until apples have browned and are fork tender.

Corner Burger [381 Fifth Ave. at Sixth Street in Park Slope, (718) 360-4622]. Closed Mondays. — Gersh Kuntzman

M u si c

It’s Zanes-y

Is there nowhere that Dan Zanes won’t allow his musical muse to go? We’ve all delighted watching the former rocker become the Dylan of kids music, but now Zanes has taken on that most hoary of standards, the Broadway show tune, in his new album, “76 Trombones.” It’s a misstep. Yes, the title track is pure Zanes — fun and rollicking, with his typical whimsy and excellent musicianship. And, yes, it’s a lot of fun to hear his duet with Carol Channing — yes, that Carol Channing — on “Hello, Dolly.” But, really, do we need another version of “Tomorrow” from the treacly show, “Annie”? Do we need a version of “The Inchworm,” possibly Frank Loesser’s worst song? I’d skip the LP, but still catch Zanes and company at the Brooklyn Academy of Music next month. Those shows are always hot. Dan Zanes and friends at Brooklyn Academy of Music [30 Lafayette Ave. near St. Felix Street in Fort Greene, (718) 636-4100], Feb. 6 at 2 pm and 5 pm. Tickets are $15-$25. — Thurston Dooley III

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Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Melt butter in a four-quart saucepan. Stir in sugar. Cook onions over medium

heat for 10 minutes, or until golden brown. Stir in flour until well blended with the onions and pan juices. Add water, wine, and beef broth; heat to boiling. Reduce heat to low. Cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Cut four one-inch thick slices of bread from the loaf and toast in the oven until browned (about 10 minutes). Reserve the remaining bread to serve with the soup. Ladle soup into four, 12-ounce, oven-safe bowls. Place one slice of toasted bread on top of the soup in each bowl. Place Swiss cheese slices on each toasted bread slice. Raise oven temperature to 425 degrees and bake for three minutes or just until cheese is melted.

On a trip to Montreal last month, Corner Burger owner Hilda Hampar had a moment of culinary inspiration.. “I saw people in the cold outside restaurants and I asked, ‘What could they be lining up for?’ It was poutine.” Poutine? That literal mess of French fries, gravy and cheese curds that is both a national joke and a national dish in Canada? Yes. Hampar’s poutine is not going to win any authenticity awards from Parliament, but it is a heart-warming (and -clogging) delight. Her fries are crispy, her chicken-based gravy homemade and her Wisconsin cheese curds so fresh that they make a squeak of real poutine. “I really think people will connect with poutine,” said Hampar, whose menu includes the classic dish, plus versions that include pulled pork, shredded chicken and peas (very Montreal), Bolonese sauce, and a pepperoni pizza poutine (all $6.50-$7.50). Canadians have already been showing up out of the blue, so, Brooklynites, now it’s your turn to experience the greatest thing Canada has ever done for America since William Shatner.

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BP / Gersh Kuntzman

The Brooklyn Paper / Tom Callan

Poutine time

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