Clifden – A Reflection on 200 Years by Noel Mannion

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To see our annual programme of events visit clifden2012.org or join us on facebook.com/clifden2012 Design and layout by Connemara Publications: connemarapublications.ie

C L I F D E N 2 0 0 C E L E B R AT I O N S M AY 2 5 t h - J U N E 4 t h 2 0 1 2

The Clifden 2012 Committee wishes to sincerely thank their sponsors without whom none of this would have been possible.

FORUM Connemara Ltd

Galway County Council

Front cover photo: This photograph shows Clifden in the mid 1890s. Of note is the lack of spire on St Joseph’s Church as this was only added in 1898. The Parish Hall or Town Hall as it is affectionately known is also absent. Of note is the workhouse on the right hand side, the fishing boats tied at the quay and the stacks of hay near the Square.

FRIENDS OF CLIFDEN 2012 Their community support has been invaluable and that they came forward in such numbers encouraged the committee to greater efforts as we knew we were on the right track. John & Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill Paula & Peter Vine Maurice & Alex O’ Scannaill Joe & Colette McGrath Jack & Julia Foyle Charlie & Marie Bourke Cyril Joyce Cllr. Eileen Mannion Sheila Griffin & Rod Teck Alan & Sandra Shattock JJ & Kay Mitchell Brian & Michelle Hughes Brian & Michele Hehir Terry & Karen Sweeney Brendan & Sally Madden Nessa Joyce Kevin & Jennifer Barry Dr. Ciaran & Ann MacLoughlin JJ & Catriona Mannion Seán Kyne TD Éamon & Áine O’Cuív T.D. Cllr. Thomas Welby Declan & Kiara Mannion Seán & Mairéad Heanue Marty & Patricia Faherty Richard & Ciara Flaherty Dr. Noreen Casey Donnie & Val Bermingham Rev. Anthony & Mrs Christina Previté Rev. Dennis & Mrs Leslie Sandes

Brendan & Ursula Flynn Tom & Eily Vaughan Jack & Marion O’ Grady Catherine Pryce John & Margaret Kelly Josie Conneely Pat & Pauline Canavan Pat & Jean Mullan Eamonn & Noreen King Roisin Pryce & Patrick Murray Mark O’ Hara & Audrie Amoroso Stephanie Brooks Martin & Rita Acton Anne & Martin Mannion Karen Mannion & Peter Davitt Eimear Kelly Kenneth Fahey Hal & Maureen McNall Francy & May Mannion Tom Mannion Percy & Bridie Hyland Laura Griffin & Kevin Gavin Hugh & Nicola Musgrave Ian & Aiveen Fogerty Jens Werner & Linda Schirmer Ellen McDonough John & Sue Brittain David & Paula Bann Dr. Sean Gibbons Martin & Mary Kirby Eileen Hickey Mary & Timothy Gough Canon James Ronayne P.P. Ronnie & Francoise Millar Vincent & Annette Fahy Aodan & Maree McGlynn Dr. Catherine Skelly Alan & Eileen Brannelly Doris Mannion Michael Gibbons & Patricia Dunford

Jonathan Daly Cáilín & Martina McHugh Pat Shanahan Stuart & Ruth Morgan Geoff & Denise Tucker Robert & Ann Jocelyn Noel & Kitty Noonan Kathleen Howley & Willie McDonagh Joe Lynch Lorcan & Helen Geoghegan Paul & Ann Marie Coyne Maureen Maloney Paul & Ann Marie Bennett Paul & Carol Passemard Brian & Lavinia O’ Malley Noel Mannion & Catherine Lavoie Cathal & Joan Walsh Sean Flynn Michael & Aileen King Adam & Áine Conroy Steven Burke Tom & Siobhán King Capt. Phelim & Elaine Gibbons Mary Byrne Alain & Áine Adés Noel & Ber Kirby Adrian & Shirley Lead Lavinia Joyce Hugh & Eileen Griffin Paddy & Julia Foyle Patrick & Cliodhna O’ Flaherty John & Natasha Dwyer Charles & Frederique Allaire Chris & Pauline O Neill Stephen & Frances Joyce Eileen Morris & Des Morris Roy Griffin Eleanor Mannion Pauline Mannion & Nicholas Rothwell Fergus & Frances Mannion

Roger & Joan Johnson Brian & Fiona Walsh TD Dave & Moira Beecher John & Treena Sweeney Thomas & Mary Mannion Francy & Michelle Mannion Pat & Cathriona O’ Toole Sinéad Mannion Dr. Irene Whelan Pete & Mary Smyth Nora & Martin Walsh Mary Joyce Claire Griffin & Alan King Patrick & Irene Whelan Emer Joyce Ann Merrins & Pat Pryce Susan & Leo Mansfield Pat & Margaret Walshe Breandan O’Scanaill John Noone Helen Ferguson & Shane Joyce Seamus & Mary Cullen Mary & Peter Carey Colleen & Billy Gilmore Michael & Iris Taylor Frankie Hall & Diarmuid Kelleher Terence O’Toole & Marie Walsh Bridie & John Flaherty Stephen & Lisa Foyle Pat & Neville Figgis Joan & Chris King John Stanley & Sorcha O’Toole Pat & Ann Casey Mark & Kathleen Joyce Eunice Mannion and Anthony Mason Jackie & Bernie Ward Michael & Toni Barrett Gerard King

Welcome to the Celebration Is é mo phribhléid fáilte a chur romhat go dtí An Clochán i 2012, an bhliain atá tiomnaithe do cheiliúradh bhunú an Chlocháin i 1812 ag John D’Arcy. Tá súil agam go mbainfidh tú taitneamh as ár gceiliúradh ar an lá breithe 200 ár mbaile agus roinnt eolais úsáideach agussuimiúil ar stair a aimsiú sa leabhrán seo a ghabhann leis. Is iad na hailt agus na grianghraif le fáil laistigh de ach léargas arstair shaibhir agus dathannach an cheantair, agus is féidir go leor eile rochtain a fháil ar ár láithreán gréasáin tiomnaithe www.clifden2012.org. I hope that you will enjoy our celebrations of the 200th birthday of our town and find some useful and interesting information on its history in this accompanying booklet. The articles and photographs contained within are just a snapshot of the rich and colourful history of the area, and many more can be accessed on our dedicated website www.clifden2012.org. Please keep in touch with the Clifden 2012 committee during the year, as we know that it is through sharing the knowledge and stories of our wonderful town that we will all learn something about the early life of the town and its people. I am greatly looking forward to sharing the celebrations with you all in 2012. In the meantime, we will continue to use our website to share stories and information and more importantly, to make new friends, so please spread the word. Breandan O’Scanaill, Chairperson, Clifden 2012 Members: Declan Mannion, Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill, Shane Joyce, Michele Hehir, Charlie Bourke, Michael Gibbons, Sheila Griffin, Pat Walshe

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Table of Contents Clifden 2012 Programme of Events Timeline of the Past 200 Years of Clifden History of Clifden John D’Arcy (1785-1839) O’Connell’s Clifden Monster Meeting of 1843 John Reilly and The San Patricios The Galway to Clifden Railway Clifden Marconi Station - A Timely Re-Evaluation Jack Phillips - Marconi Telegraphist Lost on The Titanic Alcock & Brown - The Beginning of Transatlantic Flight The Story of Thomas Whelan The Clifden Races at Wood’s Field Historical Photo Gallery Acknowledgements

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Clifden 2012 programme of events

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17th–19th February Clifden Railway and Transport Heritage

Weekend A weekend of activities relating to Clifden’s lost railways and

examining the transport methods which developed and transformed the area in the past two centuries. The Galway to Clifden Railway line, the transformative works of the engineer Alexander Nimmo and traditional marine transport methods will all be discussed. Guided walks and a series of talks and exhibitions will examine these elements of Clifden’s heritage over the course of a weekend.

16th March History Ireland Hedge School Seminar

Tommy Graham of History Ireland presents his round table discussion series featuring historians and well-known personalities, suited to discuss relevant matters of both local and national historical interest. The War of Independence will be a discussion topic at this meeting in Clifden. Venue: Station House Theatre

16th–18th March St Patrick’s Festival 2012

The annual celebration of our patron saint will be spread over a weekend of events in 2012. The St Patrick’s Day Parade takes place on Saturday 17th. On Sunday 18th the Connemara Chamber of Commerce welcomes the French town of Plouarzel in a twinning ceremony. The Chamber will also host the Garda marching band and there will be plenty of live music in various venues over the weekend. left: photo courtesy of Connemara Publications

Clifden 2012 Programme of Events -

13th–15th April Clifden Traditional Music

Festival Clifden will come alive to the sound of

traditional music as local and visiting musicians and dancers will hold a number of lively sessions in various venues. www.clifdentradfest.com

15th April Clifden Remembers Jack Phillips

and the Titanic Chief wireless operator Captain Jack Phillips and the sinking of the Titanic will be commemorated in Clifden on the centenary of the tragic event.

18th–20th May Galway County Fleadh

The county fleadh returns to Clifden in 2012 where the weekend will be packed full of music, song and dance. Competitions will take place at Clifden Community School and there will be many and varied sessions in venues around the town. www.clifdencomhaltas.com

Sunday 3rd June Sky Road 10k Challenge www.clifdenchamber.ie

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25th May–4th June

Clifden 200 Festival

The following line-up contains just a sample range of the heritage events that will be taking place during the festival. Many more events and activities such as music and dance, storytelling and documentaries, and various exhibitions will also be taking place on an ongoing basis. There will be a wide selection of music sessions and entertainment in the town’s bars every evening during the festival. Events will be listed in local venues and media during the festival and on our website. www.clifden2012.org

Friday 25th May Clifden 200 Official Opening

and Reception at the Clifden Station House Hotel Saturday 26th May

Connemara before Clifden Seminar

a series of morning talks and discussions taking place in the Station House Theatre. Topics include Connemara geology, geography and archaeology, and life in the area in the 18th and 19th centuries. Speakers include: Dr. Ronán Hennessy, Michael Gibbons and Kevin Whelan. Visit www.clifden2012.org for updates to these events.

Afternoon Street Market and Activities in Clifden’s Market Square.

Céilí Mór evening of local musical & dancing talent. Sunday 27th May

Traditional Boats Regatta

featuring the boats of the Galway Hooker Society and currach racing in Clifden Bay. There will also be a seaside fete with onshore activities for all the family.

Monday 28th–Tuesday 29th May

Dinner and entertainment with traditional music and Sean-Nós dancing. Time: 8pm

Thursday 31st May

Sources: Home and Abroad

a series of talks by renowned experts in the field of genealogical research. Individual queries and free advice service will be available on the day. Time: 9:30am-5pm

Clifden 200 Street Party

Gardening Seminar talks, tours and book launch

on Main Street and Market Square. A community led gathering on the streets of Clifden. Time: 5pm onwards

30th May–1st June

The Robert Burns of Connemara? The Life and Legacy of Micheal Mac Suibhne (‘The Poet Sweeney’), 1760-1820

by the Clifden Gardening Club. Additional events TBA.

Uncovering Our Connemara Roots Conference at the Station House Theatre and Hotel. Wednesday 30th May

talk by Dr. Irene Whelan in the Station House Theatre. Time: 8-9pm

Welcome Reception and Introduction

Friday 1st June

In Search of a better way of life: Emigration from Connemara in the 19th & Early 20th Centuries talk by Dr. Gerard Moran, NUI Maynooth.

Live a day in the life of your ancestors.

by Clifden 2012 Committee. Time: 5-6pm

Join us on www.facebook.com/clifden2012

The Home Experience

Rambling House Session Craic, Caint & Ceol Time: 9:30pm-late

Clifden 2012 Programme of Events -

Saturday 2nd June Time: 10am-5:30pm

Sunday 3rd June

19th Century Town Development Seminar

Fun Run from Workhouse to Courthouse

Registration, welcome and introductions by Dr. Irene Whelan at the Station House Theatre.

Time: 12-1pm

Drama Performance by the children of

Clifden’s Contemporaries – Ireland’s Other New Towns by Rob Goodbody

Kingstown and Clifden National Schools under the direction of Drama Coordinator Megan Vine. TBC.

Galway in the 19th Century: A ‘Bustling, Roughand-Ready Town’ by Paul Walsh

Monday 4th June Street entertainment

Activities and afternoon round up on Market Square.

Clifden: Its Early History and Development by Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill

Perspectives on the Future of the Irish Small Town

Forum and Panel Discussion chaired by The Hon. Mr Justice Nicholas Kearns President of the High Court. Panel: Mr Phil Hogan T.D., Minister for Environment, Community and Local Government, David McWilliams Economist, Broadcaster & Author, Conor Skehan Department of Environment and Planning in the School of Spatial Planning at DIT, Michael O’Neill CEO Connemara West.

Afternoon Drama Performance

by the children of Kingstown and Clifden National Schools under the direction of Drama Coordinator Megan Vine.

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15th–17th June

Alcock and Brown Heritage Weekend

The two famous transatlantic aviators and their epic journey and landing outside Clifden will be remembered over the course of this weekend. Exhibitions, talks and guided walks of the site are among the events that will take place.

5th–12th August Connemara Pony Festival

The world famous Clifden Pony Show takes place this year on August 9th in order to avoid clashing with the Dublin Horse Show and the Olympic Games. www.cpbs.ie Visit www.clifden2012.org for updates to these events.

18th–26th August National Heritage Week

12th–14th October

7th–12th September

The Italian inventor and entrepreneur who built his transatlantic wireless telegraphy station in Derrigimlagh will be celebrated over the course of this weekend.

For details of a packed schedule of events throughout the country see www.heritageweek.ie

San Patricio Mexican-Irish Festival

The San Patricio battalion and its leader John Reilly who hailed from Clifden, will be the focus of this five day festival. The Battalion joined with Mexico against the United States in the Mexican-American war of 1846-1848 and are revered in Mexican history for coming to their aid. The festival will consist of exhibitions, documentary screenings, Mexican and Irish traditional music, song and dance and much more. The Mexican community in Ireland will also be involved in what promises to be a great meeting of two cultures in recognition of an historical link.

20 –30 September 35th Clifden Community th

Arts Festival The longest running community arts festival promises an electric line up of talent in all genres for 2012, when it celebrates its 35th year. www.clifdenartsweek.ie Join us on www.facebook.com/clifden2012

Marconi Heritage Weekend

The site of the old Marconi station has been extensively researched and mapped recently and a series of talks, guided walks and exhibitions will give us an insight into how groundbreaking and vitally important Marconi and his stations were in global communications.

11th November

Clifden Remembers the Connemara Men Who Served and Died in Wars Abroad Many more events, venues and times will be available from our dedicated website www.clifden2012.org in the approach to the various heritage weekends and the Clifden 200 Festival. Enquiries regarding the events may also be made to info@clifden2012.org Clifden 2012 Programme of Events -

Timeline of the past 200 years of Clifden John D’Arcy founded Clifden. A young man of great vision, with a love of the west, John created a town on his ancestral estate where before there was wilderness. John was twice married and had thirteen children. The D’Arcy family residence was Clifden Castle, situated to the west of the town.

1812

Alexander Nimmo, a Scottish engineer, was sent by government to construct roads and piers in Connemara at a time of famine. Nimmo and his workforce contributed greatly to the early development of the town.

1822

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John D’Arcy died at Clifden Castle and was laid to rest in the Clifden churchyard. He was remembered as being ‘obliging, benevolent and unostentatious’. The foundation for a monument to commemorate his memory was erected on a hill overlooking the town, but was never fully completed.

1839

A Monster Meeting was held in Clifden on 17th September 1843. The meeting was one of a number held throughout the country to mobilise public opinion behind Daniel O’Connell’s demand for Repeal of the Act of Union. A banquet was held that evening in a pavilion erected behind Carr’s Hotel on Main Street.

1843

Great hardship was experienced by all classes during the Great Famine. The true number of those that perished from starvation and disease will never be known. Emigration followed, thinning the population even further and starting a trend that would continue for more than a century. Clifden Workhouse (18471922) was built to accommodate the destitute of the district and was in operation for seventy-five years.

1845-49

Hyacinth D’Arcy, son and heir to John, was declared bankrupt and the D’Arcy Estates were sold. Thomas and Charles Eyre of Bath, England, purchased the town and roughly 7,200 acres of land for £21,245. Clifden town, Glenowen and Shanakeever (570 acres) fetched £4,000. Almost all of the original D’Arcy lands were eventually purchased by the government and divided out among the tenants.

1850

The Clifden Marconi Station was one of the biggest industrial complexes in Ireland at that time, the centre of world communications between the old and new world. Guglielmo Marconi had set up his station outside Clifden in 1905 and the first commercial message passed over the ocean on 17th October 1907. Attacked by Republican forces on 25th July 1922 it never returned to full operations.

Aviation history was made with the landing of Capt. John Alcock and Lieut. Arthur Whitten Brown on 15th June 1919, the first men to fly over the Atlantic. 16 hours and 25 minutes of snow, ice, fog and winds separated their arrival from their departure from Newfoundland. Their Vickers Vimy 2 seater biplane had held up very well only to nosedive into a Connemara bog.

1907

1919

St Patrick’s Day saw Clifden experience the worst atrocities ever carried out in the town. After violence and counter-violence the dreaded Black and Tans were let loose. Looting, violence and fire sent the townspeople running. Death and injury gripped the town as they watched the flames consume 14 houses. A dark night in Clifden’s history, long remembered.

1921

On 27th April 1935 a glorious adventure came to an end as the short lived Galway to Clifden railway line closed. This scenic route served the area a mere 40 years and had in that short time seen many visitors arrive, but also many emigrants leave, some forever. In its short history, the railway also provided a vital link for goods and produce, transporting fresh fish to Dublin and even London in one day.

1935

The Community School of Clifden grew from two separate schools, the Sisters of Mercy School for Girls and the Franciscan Brothers School for Boys. Both religious orders arrived in Clifden in the middle of the 1800s and played leading roles in the education of the region. The new school began classes in 1976 and today continues its long established excellence of education.

1974

From humble beginnings, the Clifden Arts Festival celebrates its 35th year in 2012, now one of the country’s foremost festivals. Blending local, national and international talent, it aims to celebrate all aspects of the arts in the community. Working closely with schools to educate in the arts, it takes place in September each year, also bringing the curtain down on the summer season.

2012

Timeline of the Past 200 Years of Clifden -

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History of Clifden one man’s vision

John D’Arcy founded Clifden in 1812. At the time, he was just twenty-seven years of age, married and the father of three sons. He was also the proprietor of an estate that covered over 17,000 acres on the west coast of Connemara. The lands had been in the D’Arcy family for over 150 years, but they would be lost within a generation. The D’Arcys were a Galway family, one of the powerful families known as The Tribes of Galway. The family seat was at Kiltullagh, near Athenry, but John was very much a Connemara man; his mother was a Lynch from Barna and his grandmother, also named Lynch, was from Drimcong in Moycullen.

left: Clifden c. 1850

History of Clifden - One Man's Vision -

The Famine affected all classes and ultimately caused the ruin of the D’Arcy family. Ever since inheriting the family estates in 1804, it was John’s ambition to establish a town on his Connemara lands. There were, however, many disadvantages to overcome and it would be years before the town would begin to take shape. Although slow to start, the town developed rapidly in the 1820s. The census figures for 1821 show the town as having 46 houses and a population of 290. By 1831, the population had jumped to 1,257 and there were 196 houses. Schools and churches dominated the skyline to the north of the town, while industrial buildings occupied the south; there was a brewery, distillery and mill on the banks of the Owenglin River, next to the waterfall. John D’Arcy died in 1839. At the time of his death, John’s ambition had been achieved. Clifden was then the headquarters for the coastguard and police force for the district. It had a bridewell and before long there would be a courthouse and workhouse. The town was thriving and the economic benefits to the region were becoming clear as more land in the neighbourhood was brought under cultivation and agricultural production increased to supply the growing market. Throughout the years of the Great Famine, Clifden became the centre for administering relief in Connemara. The town witnessed many painful scenes during this time, as the streets filled with starving people desperately seeking work, food or charity, and when these were exhausted, access to the workhouse. Many houses in the town became tenements to house those who had abandoned their holdings so as to become eligible for relief, creating a breeding ground for cholera that reached epidemic proportions in 1849. When one takes into account the inmates of the

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workhouse and the jail, Clifden was the only townland in the parish to show a sizable increase in population in the 1851 census. The Famine affected all classes and ultimately caused the ruin of the D’Arcy family. Hyacinth D’Arcy, John’s son and heir, was forced to sell the town, along with the rest of the D’Arcy estates, in the 1850s. Thomas and Charles Eyre of Bath, England, eventually purchased the Clifden estate for £21,245. Representatives of the new landlords would live on at Clifden Castle until the close of the 19th century. It took years to recover from the Great Famine and there was periodic crop failure and times of hardship in the years that followed. However, the opening of the Galway to Clifden railway line in 1895 did much to improve the economy of the town and helped to establish Connemara as a tourist destination. The opening of the Marconi Wireless station at Derrigimlagh in October 1907, and the arrival of the first transatlantic flight there on 15th June 1919, brought fame in the early years of the 20th century. The years immediately afterwards, however, saw war and destruction visited on the streets. On St

Patrick’s Day 1921, during the War of Independence, the Black and Tans burned fourteen houses and shot two civilians, one of them fatally, in retaliation for the shooting dead of two policemen by members of the IRA some hours earlier. In the Civil War there was a ten-hour battle fought in the streets between the opposing sides. Recent years have, thankfully, been more peaceful. Since the foundation of the Irish Republic, the town has focused on developing a sound economy for the local population, relying heavily on the thousands of tourists who continue to visit each year. With its beautiful landscape, plentiful activities and fascinating history it is no wonder that visitors fall in love with the capital of Connemara. In the past 200 years, the people of Clifden have displayed a resilience equal to that of the town’s founder. Now in 2012 they can celebrate the rich and authentic heritage of their town with justified pride and confidence.

Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill History of Clifden - One Man's Vision -

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John D’Arcy (1785-1839) John D’Arcy was descended from an illustrious Galway family, the D’Arcys of Kiltullagh. The family were of Anglo Norman and Gaelic origin and were prominent in Galway from the 16th century. The first of the D’Arcys to win notoriety in Galway was James Darcy, nicknamed Riveagh, who was appointed vice president of Connaught and chief magistrate of the town during the reign of Elizabeth I. James (Riveagh) was mayor of Galway at the time of his death in 1603. From his will it is clear that he was a very wealthy man and was in a position to make ample provision for his seven sons and one daughter. John D’Arcy of Clifden was descended from James (Riveagh)’s seventh son, Patrick.

left: Clifden Castle / John D’Arcy - photo courtesy of Adrian Lead

John D'Arcy (1785-1839) -

Patrick D’Arcy (1598–1668) is considered to have been the most important constitutional lawyer of the 17th century. He had a highly successful private law practice and was an active member of the Irish House of Commons. During the Confederate War (1641-53) Patrick D’Arcy was a leading member of the supreme council and was one of those that concluded peace with the lord lieutenant, the Earl of Ormond. He was also one of the commissioners later appointed by the assembly to raise an army of ten thousand men to aid King Charles I against the English Parliament. Following the defeat of the royalists, Patrick was imprisoned in the 1650s and his large estates in Mayo, Sligo and Galway were confiscated. He was allocated sixty-six acres in Omey Parish, in Connemara, and transplanted there in 1656. He was later granted permission to return to Galway, where he continued his legal practice. Patrick died in 1668 and was succeeded by his son James.

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James (1633-1692) inherited large estates from his cousin, also named James D’Arcy. These included lands in Connemara and at Kiltullagh, Co Galway. The lands had been awarded to James under the Acts of Settlement and Explanation following the Cromwellian land settlements and the restoration of the king. The Kiltullagh lands were awarded for an act of kindness by a female member of the family in saving the lives of some English soldiers during the civil war. The D’Arcy estates were entailed and therefore had to pass through the male line. John D’Arcy inherited the estates from his cousin Patrick in 1804. John’s inheritance comprised the lands in Connemara, along with land in east Galway and Mayo. Included in his inheritance was the family seat, Kiltullagh House, near Athenry, where the proprietor of the D’Arcy estates usually lived. On 4th June 1804, John married Frances Blake, daughter of Andrew Netterville Blake, of Castlegrove, near Tuam, Co Galway, and great granddaughter of Nicholas, 5th Viscount Netterville. Over the next eleven years, the D’Arcys had four sons and two daughters. John had a keen interest in sailing and, from the start, seemed to photo above: Patrick D’Arcy

have shown more interest in his estates on the west coast of Connemara than those in other parts of the county. John was young and ambitious, and soon became involved in local politics. He was appointed High Sheriff of the county in 1811. This was a prestigious position and one that carried power and influence in the county. John overstepped his powers, however, when in April he released from Galway gaol three Connemara men who were serving a sentence that included three public whippings. John was partly responsible for their arrest and was perhaps suffering pangs of conscience at the time, or maybe he considered the punishment too severe for the crime. Nonetheless, his action brought him into conflict with Dublin Castle and was the cause of him being removed from his position as High Sheriff later in the year. It also spoiled his chances of contesting the Galway county seat at Westminster the next year. Following his fall from grace, John seems to have turned his energy towards the development of his Connemara estate and in particular the setting up of a town, which he named Clifden. John was granted patents to hold markets and fairs at Clifden in 1812. This identified the village as a town and would have been a spur to Johnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s endeavours.

...John seems to have turned his energy towards the development of his Connemara estate and in particular the setting up of a town, which he named Clifden. John was granted patents to hold markets and fairs at Clifden in 1812. John D'Arcy (1785-1839) -

John was noted throughout the county as a hospitable man and, according to one source, prone to live beyond his means. Like so many of his contemporaries, he borrowed heavily against his estate and, on his death in 1839... 20 - Clifden 200 – A Reflection on 200 Years

Frances D’Arcy died on 15th June 1815. Soon after this, John took his family to live permanently in the newly constructed Clifden Castle, a little west of the town. In 1820, John broke with family tradition and crossed the Shannon for a new wife. He met and married Louisa Bagot Sneyd from Dublin. Louisa was the daughter of an English father, Henry Sneyd of Keele Hall in Staffordshire, and an Irish mother, Elizabeth Malone. Louisa was just twenty-one years of age when she married John. It was a brave step for a young woman, removing herself from her family, society and the comforts of life in Dublin to take up residence in what was one of the remotest parts of the kingdom. But Louisa soon found that life in the remote west was anything but dull. Her relationship with her six stepchildren appears to have been close. Louisa and John went on to have eight children of their own, one of whom died in infancy. Throughout the twenties, Clifden developed rapidly under John’s stewardship. By granting generous leases at low rents, he succeeded in attracting shopkeepers, merchants and artisans on to his estate. Aware that the new arrivals came from many parts of the country, he was ever conscious of fostering a united community. Over the years, John’s even-

handed approach to his duties as landlord and magistrate endeared him to his tenants, but this did not mean that they could ever be called submissive. They were all the more independent minded, because of their diversity. John went forward for the Galway seat at Westminster in five elections between 1812 and 1835. In three of these he withdrew before the final count. He contested the other two to the end, but failed to get elected. John was greatly aided in his political campaigning by the very able parish priest, Rev. Peter Fitzmaurice. He espoused the causes of Daniel O’Connell; he was a strong advocate of Catholic Emancipation in the 1820s and Repeal of the Act of Union in the 1830s. But O’Connell was wavering in his support, perhaps feeling that John would never be able to unseat the more powerful Thomas Martin.

bankrupt and the entire D’Arcy estates were sold in the Encumbered Estates Court in 1850. Five of John’s children from his first marriage lived out their lives in Clifden and are buried in the churchyard in the town. The exception was John Talbot, who lived for a time in Co Roscommon, but retired to Clifden and was the last of the family to live there until his death in 1896. The children from the second marriage held a strong affinity for Clifden, but were forced to seek their fortunes in other parts. They did, however, pass on to future generations a strong sense of identity and a pride in their ancestor, John D’Arcy. Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill

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Monster

O’Connell’s Clifden Meeting of 1843

Daniel O’Connell was known as ‘The Liberator’, a man who used his talents to further the cause of justice by peaceful means. He had two main aims, Catholic emancipation and the Repeal of the Union. By working with the ordinary people and organising them in what would now be considered a popular movement, he motivated people to agitate for their rights. This mass movement paid off with Catholic emancipation becoming law in 1829. He then set about the Repeal of the Union and had many successes, despite failing in the overall objective.

left: Clifden Monster meeting - photo courtesy of Dr. Ciaran MacLoughlin

O'Connell's Clifden Monster Meeting of 1843

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O’Connell had been invited to speak by a number of the region’s Catholic merchants, landlords and the clergy. The meeting took place on the Dooneen road, just south of the waterfall in Clifden... 24 - Clifden 200 – A Reflection on 200 Years

As he had done previously, he set up a grass roots organisation, the Repeal Association. People paid in tiny amounts to be members and they agitated and marched in order to make their wishes known. In 1843, the association held a series of meetings throughout the country. These quickly grew in popularity and as so many people travelled from all parts of the country to these gatherings they became known as ‘Monster Meetings’. It is difficult to imagine that in those days of poor communication and infrastructure, around forty meetings were held that year. The largest, at Tara, had hundreds of thousands of people in attendance. One such meeting was held in Clifden on 17th of September 1843. O’Connell had been invited to speak by a number of the region’s Catholic merchants, landlords and the clergy. The meeting took place on the Dooneen road, just south of the waterfall in Clifden and it is fair to say the site is a natural amphitheatre.

The illustration shows O’Connell standing in the midst of the people who had invited him to speak, while the general population stand or sit around them. This illustration was commissioned for propaganda purposes and may not be necessarily a true image, but it certainly gives us an idea of what the event was like. There was largely a party atmosphere at these ‘Monster Meetings’ and the newspapers of the time generally commented on the fact that these large gatherings of people regularly passed off without trouble. In varying accounts the figure of attendees at the Clifden ‘Monster Meeting’ ranges from 10,000 to 100,000. ‘The Liberator’ himself would have been treated to a grand feast in one of the big houses or hotels of the time. Of course, this meeting, like the others would not have been popular with everyone. The authorities of the day were not pleased and of course later took steps to ban such gatherings. Even among the local people, some would see these events as being a step too far. There are letters which speak of this disapproval and even one story of a lady throwing a stone at a painting of Daniel O’Connell. Ultimately, the Clifden ‘Monster Meeting’ of 17th September 1843 was one bright event among many nationwide, which would sadly be largely forgotten in the horrors that lay ahead. Breandan O Scanaill

O'Connell's Clifden Monster Meeting of 1843

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26 - Clifden â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection on 200 Years

John Reilly

and the san patricios The mid 1840s was a very dark period for Europe and for Ireland in particular, as the potato blight affected millions of people throughout the continent. Emigration to America became the only way out for the majority of people and one of these was John Reilly. Very little is known about him, but he was probably born sometime in the early part of the century in the Clifden area. There were no records for this region until the mid 1800s. There are stories that he went from Ireland to England and then to Canada, but none of this is actually proven.

left: Convent of Churubusco, painting by James Walker

John Reilly and The San Patricios -

John Reilly first shows up working on a farm in Michigan in 1843 and it was here in September 1845 that he signed up to the American Army, as it prepared for war with Mexico. 28 - Clifden – A Reflection on 200 Years

John Reilly first shows up working on a farm in Michigan in 1843 and it was here in September 1845 that he signed up to the American Army, as it prepared for war with Mexico. This was a very unpopular war and there were many critics in the American administration and press. Conditions for the ordinary soldiers were tough and lack of discipline and disease greatly reduced the numbers. It is reported that more people left or deserted the army during this war than any other that the USA has been involved in. John Reilly was one of these, but rather than run away, he ran into further conflict. He joined the foreign legion of the Mexican army and straight away began transforming them into a well trained battalion which soon became known as The Battalon de San Patricio or simply the ‘San Patricios’. This group grew quickly and before long there were over 200 men, mostly Irish but also American, German and English men. Their uniforms differed from those of the Mexican army and they also fought under a different banner. The story goes that nuns at a convent stitched the flag for this group, featuring the shamrock and harp of Ireland on one side, with either a Celtic cross or an image of Saint Patrick on the other. right: Illustration from the Personal Memoirs of General Ulysses S. Grant

They fought alongside their Mexican counterparts in all of the major battles of this war: Monterrey, Buena Vista and finally Churubusco, on the outskirts of Mexico City. Reilly in particular won praise for the manner in which he conducted himself. He seemed to have been fair and generous in his treatment of others, even writing to protest about the harsh treatment of some local people. His military prowess also won great praise, including one back handed compliment from one of the enemy who stated that ‘Reilly was the greatest artillerist of the day, and we suffered greatly on his account’. These skills have often been debated. How could an uneducated man have learned what was needed to operate fairly sophisticated weaponry? There is no ready answer. In fact, in almost everything connected with John Reilly and the San Patricios, there are a lot more questions than answers. We don’t even know what happened to him after the war, although latest research suggests that he moved to Vera Cruz. An entry in the death records for that city mention a John Reilly, but there is nothing to prove that this is the correct person. In any case he made an indelible impression on the war of the time and leaves a fascinating legacy behind him. Breandan O Scanaill John Reilly and The San Patricios -

30 - Clifden 200 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection on 200 Years

the galway to

Clifden Railway The Galway to Clifden railway was in operation for forty years from 1895 to 1935. It was a single line of standard gauge, 5 feet 3 inches, with a total length of 48 miles 550 feet. The line ran through central Connemara and had seven stations, Moycullen, Ross, Oughterard, Maam Cross, Recess, Ballynahinch and Clifden. It took five years to construct and cost over ÂŁ9,000 per mile. Work started on the line in the winter of 1890, during a time of severe hardship in Connemara. A period of distress prevailed throughout the region due to bad weather, crop failure and falling agriculture prices.

photo left: Clifden Station 1890s

The Galway to Clifden Railway

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In April 1891, Braddock had notices in place along the line offering employment to all who would apply; by May he was employing almost a thousand men and boys. 32 - Clifden 200 – A Reflection on 200 Years

The people were in need of urgent assistance and the government considered the construction of a railway line was the ideal way of offered large-scale employment over a wide area. Up until this, railways were built by private enterprise and several attempts to construct a railway linking Galway with Clifden had failed due to lack of funds. However, by 1888, the government had decided that, in order to advance the rail network throughout the country it would offer grants for the construction of railways in remote, thinly populated districts that were considered commercially non-viable by the railway companies. The Galway to Clifden line was constructed by the Midland Great Western Railway Company at a cost of £410,000, with an additional £40,000 going towards rolling stock. A large portion of the cost, £264,000, was granted as a free gift by government, under the Light Railways Act (1889). The company was to build, maintain and operate the line. There were two engineers and three contractors involved in the construction of the line. The engineers, John Henry Ryan and Professor Edward Townsend, were both graduates of Trinity College Dublin and Townsend was Professor

of Civil Engineering at Queenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s College Galway. The contractors were Robert Worthington, Charles Braddock and Travers H. Falkiner. In order to bring employment quickly to the people, a provisional contract was entered into with Robert Worthington and preparatory works were started in autumn 1890. By January 1891 there were 500 men working along the line, at an average wage of twelve shillings a week. Over 200 of these took up lodgings in Clifden to avail of the work, while others were accommodated in wooden huts along the route. Each hut contained ten beds and a stove, and in some huts there were two men to a bed. As the work progressed, the engineers became unhappy with the standard of Worthingtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work and he failed in his bid to win the final contract. The contract instead went to Charles Braddock. In April 1891, Braddock had notices in place along the line offering employment to all who would apply; by May he was employing almost a thousand men and boys. However, a year later, Braddock was running up serious debts throughout the county

and failing to pay his workforce. There was a strike along the line that was only resolved with the promise of more regular wages. This, however, proved false and when Braddock was eventually declared bankrupt the MGWR Company was forced to take back the works in July 1892. The contract was then passed to Travers H. Falkiner, who went on to complete the major part of the work. Under Falkiner, at the height of construction, over one thousand men were given regular employment along the line and the number rose to one thousand five hundred on The Galway to Clifden Railway

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occasion. Skilled men were brought in from the outside but the local workforce carried out the majority of the labouring work. Supply huts were erected in Ballinafad to serve the need of the workforce and shebeen houses were opened along the line. Falkiner, with the support of the local priest, tried to have the shebeens closed down, but failed. By far the most interesting feature on the line was the viaduct across the Corrib River, the stacks of which can still be seen today. This was made up of three spans, each of 150 feet, with a lifting span of 21 feet, to allow for navigation of the river. There was just one tunnel on the line; this was a ‘cut and cover’ that carried Prospect Hill roadway over the railway. In all there were twenty-eight bridges, thirteen small accommodation bridges (bridges under 12 feet span) and numerous culverts to facilitate the sudden increase of water following heavy rainfall. The seven stations all had passing places or loops, with up and down platforms, except at Ross and Clifden. Those stations situated close to Galway were faced with limestone taken from local quarries, while others further

34 - Clifden 200 – A Reflection on 200 Years

west were of red brick and roofed with red tiles. There were 18 gatekeeper cottages, situated at level crossings on public road. The line from Galway to Oughterard was opened on 1st January 1895 and the rest of the line came into operation in July. As had been hoped, the opening of the line assisted the development of agriculture and fisheries in the region and contributed greatly to the economic stability of the area, particularly through its role in helping to establish Connemara as a tourist destination. The route photo above: Workmen at Maam Cross Station

was never profitable and in a bid to improve traffic on the line, the company embarked on a determined marketing campaign, advertising widely and offering packages that included tickets from many destinations in England with accommodation at their hotels at Recess and Clifden. For the home market, during the years 1903 to 1906, there were special tourist trains laid on during the summer months, offering day trips from the east coast to the west. The world war and local wars brought a decline in tourism in the early decades of the 20th century. In 1924 a merger of railway companies brought the Galway to Clifden Railway into the hands of the Great Southern Railway Company and the line was reported to be in need of a good deal of repair. Traffic had dropped due to competition from private haulage companies and an increase in private car ownership. Despite local protests, the Great Southern Railway Company took the decision to close the line and the last train left Clifden on 27th April 1935.

Despite local protests, the Great Southern Railway Company took the decision to close the line and the last train left Clifden on 27th April 1935.

Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill

The Galway to Clifden Railway

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36 - Clifden 200 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection on 200 Years

Clifden Marconi Station a timely re-evaluation

Guglielmo Marconi caused a sensation when he transmitted wireless messages from his station at Poldhu in Cornwall to Newfoundland on 12th December 1901. Having received a grant of $ 80,000 from the Canadian Government to build a station at Glace Bay in Nova Scotia, he commenced the task of perfecting wireless communication with Poldhu from late 1902. He experienced extreme difficulty in providing commercially viable communications and decided to move his easterly station as far west as possible and decided on Clifden after making tests at a number of sites.

left: Marconi with original desktop transmitter c. 1896 - photo courtesy of Marconi Cie

Clifden Marconi Station - A Timely Re-Evaluation

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By the end of 1906 tests between Clifden and Poldhu were being carried out, however the Station was not officially opened until 17th October 1907 when commercial signalling commenced between Clifden and Glace Bay. 38 - Clifden 200 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection on 200 Years

300 acres were purchased from the Kendall family at Derrigimlagh in late 1905 and construction started immediately. By the end of 1906 tests between Clifden and Poldhu were being carried out, however the Station was not officially opened until 17th October 1907 when commercial signalling commenced between Clifden and Glace Bay. The station was a sight to behold, with the huge Condenser House building, the Power house with its 6 boilers, and the massive aerial system consisting of 8 wooden masts, each 210 feet high extending eastwards over the hill for a distance of 0.5 kilometres. The aerials gave off sparks which could be heard in the distance, indicative of the huge power and voltages involved (150KW at 15,000 volts). By 1910, as the traffic increased, it was found necessary to provide signals in both directions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a technique called Duplex operation, by the Marconi Company. Initial experiments right: original station buildings c. 1907 - courtesy of Marconi Cie

Clifden Marconi Station - A Timely Re-Evaluation

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40 - Clifden 200 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection on 200 Years

were carried out at Clifden Station using a temporary aerial perpendicular to the main aerial. More substantial tests were carried out at the (now infamous) Christian Brothers School at Letterfrack, a permanent station being eventually being built in 1913 about 2.5 kilometres north at Currywongaun on the lands of Kylemore Abbey. As time moved on, advances were made in the technology and a more powerful station was built at Caernarfon in North Wales. The Clifden station was attacked by republican forces in July 1922 and some buildings were damaged. The Marconi Company sought compensation from the new Free State government, but this did not materialise. The station was closed shortly after. The remains of the station have lain dormant since the contents were sold for scrap after the closure. Employees of the station have passed away and regrettably little has been done to record the details of what was a great industrial enterprise of the 20th Century. left: 200 KW alternator and steam engine - courtesy of Marconi Cie

Clifden Marconi Station - A Timely Re-Evaluation

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42 - Clifden 200 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection on 200 Years

In a recent positive development, a local historical group, the Clifden and Connemara Heritage Society has obtained substantial LEADER funding through Forum Connemara to research the site. The site has now been mapped and a Geophysical Survey has been carried out. The Marconi Archive, now in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, has been researched for all available information regarding the site, and other sources including material from the Royal Navy visits, are being compiled. The next step will be to develop the site for the public to enjoy, using the valuable information obtained. It is expected that this will become a major tourist attraction in a beautiful landscape. Shane Joyce

The next step will be to develop the site for the public to enjoy, using the valuable information obtained. It is expected that this will become a major tourist attraction in a beautiful landscape.

left: Beanna Beola from the Marconi Station - photo courtesy of Connemara Publications

Clifden Marconi Station - A Timely Re-Evaluation

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44 - Clifden 200 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection on 200 Years

Jack Phillips

marconi telegraphist lost on the titanic The 17th of April 1912 was an unusual day at Clifden Marconi Station. A total solar eclipse occurred shortly after noon on that Tuesday afternoon. A group of Marconi employees observing the event outside the engineers bungalow must surely have spared a thought for one of their erstwhile companions, Jack Phillips, who was lost on the Titanic only two days earlier. John George Phillips was born in Farncombe in Surrey on 11th April 1887. He was educated at nearby Godalming finishing school and trained to be a wireless operator with the Marconi Company at Seaforth near Liverpool, joining on 6th June 1906, and graduating in August 1906.

photo top left: Eclipse bottom left: View from Ops Hut, Clifden right: Jack Phillips wearing uniform cap of the Marconi Co.

Jack Phillips - Marconi Telegraphist Lost on the Titanic

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On census night in 1911 we find Phillips at a house off the station in the adjoining townland of Ballinaboy along with five other telegraphists. 46 - Clifden 200 – A Reflection on 200 Years

He was posted as Junior Wireless Operator aboard the White Star Line’s vessel, Teutonic, and served on a number of liners including the Lusitania, Mauretania, Campania, and Oceanic. He stayed with the Company, and was transferred to Clifden High Power station in 1908 for the customary three and a half year stint. During this period he made acquaintance with Harold Cottam, whilst on a break from Clifden. The two exchanged messages on the fateful night, Cottam being the wireless operator on the Carpathia, which had a vital role in rescuing so many of the survivors. On census night in 1911 we find Phillips at a house off the station in the adjoining townland of Ballinaboy along with five other telegraphists. He is second on the list after Richard O’Driscoll who was the Chief Telegraphic Operator at the Clifden station. The house is still extant, and is not far from the station. Shane Joyce

Jack Phillips - Marconi Telegraphist Lost on the Titanic

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48 - Clifden 200 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection on 200 Years

Alcock and Brown

the beginning of transatlantic flight The first non-stop transatlantic flight was achieved on 15th June 1919, with the arrival of a VickersVimy biplane behind the Marconi Wireless Station at Derrigimlagh, 3.9 kilometres south of Clifden. On board were two British airmen, pilot, Captain John Alcock, and navigator, Lieutenant Arthur Whitten Brown. The aeroplane had taken off from Lesterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Field in St Johnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Newfoundland, Canada at 4.12 p.m. GMT the previous day and arrived at Derrigimlagh, Clifden, County Galway at 8.40 a.m. GMT on Sunday 15th June. The distance covered was a little less than 1,900 miles. The flight time was 16 hours 28 minutes; from coast to coast, 15 hours 57 minutes.

Alcock and Brown - The Beginning of Transatlantic Flight

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The successful flight had won the two fliers a £10,000 prize and a place in aviation history. Competition for the prize was intense and several aircraft had gathered at St John’s in preparation for the challenge, one attempt had already failed. Lord Northcliffe, proprietor of The Daily Mail had put up the prize money and the competition was administered under rules drawn up by the Royal Aero Club. The Vickers-Vimy biplane was adapted from a bomber design. The bombing gear was replaced by extra fuel tanks and the seating rearranged so that the pilot and navigator sat side by side. The plane was built mainly of wood and fabric. It was 43 ft 7 in (13.30 m) long, had a wingspan of 67 ft 2 in (20.47 m) and weighed 7,000 lbs (3,175 kg). The plane was fitted with two 360 hp Rolls-Royce Eagle VIII V-12 engines and her average speed during the Atlantic crossing was 120 miles per hour. On take off, she carried 865 gallons of petrol and 40 gallons of oil. On arrival at Derrigimlagh, she still carried sufficient fuel for a further ten hours flight. The flyers wore electrically heated clothing, Burberry overalls, fur gloves and fur-lined helmets. The battery for heating their clothing sat between them in the cockpit. They carried with them 300 private letters, the first transatlantic airmail in history.

50 - Clifden 200 – A Reflection on 200 Years

right: photo courtesy of Paul and Carol Passemard

Alcock and Brown - The Beginning of Transatlantic Flight

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‘At no point during the past sixteen hours had the pilot’s hands and feet left the controls.’ Arthur Whitten Brown

52 - Clifden 200 – A Reflection on 200 Years

Captain John Alcock DSC (1892-1919) Born in Manchester, England, Alcock obtained his pilotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s licence in 1912. He participated in several aircraft competitions prior to joining the Royal Naval Air Service at the outbreak of WW1. An experienced longdistance and night flier, Alcock crashed and was taken prisoner in Turkey (1917), and held for the duration of the war. After the war, he joined the Vickers Company and focused his attention on the Atlantic challenge.

Lieutenant Arthur Whitten Brown (1886-1948) Born in Glasgow of American parents, Brown worked as an engineer with the British Westinghouse Company. He joined the Manchester Regiment at the outbreak of the war and was later transferred to the Royal Flying Corps. Shot down over enemy lines, he was taken prisoner in Germany and later handed over to the Red Cross. After the war, he continued to work as an engineer and while visiting the Vickers Company was asked to join Alcock on the planned flight. Alcock and Brown - The Beginning of Transatlantic Flight

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‘The skillful navigation which brought the machine near to the centre of the Irish coast line was one of the finest features of the flight.’ The New York Times 54 - Clifden 200 – A Reflection on 200 Years

For the first hour of the flight the weather was clear, but soon they hit thick banks of cloud and heavy fog. They had the wind in their tail for the entire flight and the crossing was rough and bumpy. Not long out, the wireless transmitter failed and the starboard exhaust broke away, increasing the noise in the cockpit and reducing communications to gestures and scribbled notes. Poor visibility made navigation difficult for Brown. At one point, engulfed in fog, they lost their sense of balance and went into a spinning nosedive towards the sea: ‘only the fact that our bodies were pressed tightly against the seats indicated that we were falling’, Brown later wrote. Alcock succeeded in righting the plane just 50 feet from the water. Land was sighted at 8.15 a.m. and the coast was crossed at 8.25 a.m. Crossing the Irish coast, they spotted the tall masts of the Marconi wireless station at Derrigimlagh. Recognizing their location, Alcock decided not to go any further. Switching off his engines, he glided towards what he thought to be a level stretch of ground behind the station. The wheels touched down and ran on a short distance, before coming to a stop as they sank into the bog. The nose dipped and the tail lifted, and fuel began leaking into the cockpit. The airmen scrambled to safety, stepping onto Irish soil.

Brown fired off two white flares to announce their arrival and staff from the Marconi Station soon surrounded them. Telegrams were quickly sent off to Vickers, The Daily Mail and the Royal Aero Club announcing their success. The men relaxed for a time at the station, before been taken by motorcar to Galway. Members of the Clifden District Council arrived at the station and were the first official delegates to congratulate the men on their amazing feat. Alcock and Brown spent the night in Galway and were given a civic reception before departing by train for Dublin the following day. As they made their way through the country the airmen were cheered at every station. By now the world press carried news of their achievement and hailed them as heroes and adventurers. They spent the night at the Chief Secretaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lodge in the Phoenix Park, Dublin, and next day travelled by boat and train to London. Winston Churchill presented the men with their cheque at a dinner in the Savoy Hotel on 20th June and King George V knighted them the next day at Windsor Castle. Six months later, on 18th December, John Alcock was killed in Normandy while transporting a Viking Flying Boat from Weybridge to the Paris Aircraft Exhibition. He was twenty-seven years of age. Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill

Alcock and Brown - The Beginning of Transatlantic Flight

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56 - Clifden 200 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection on 200 Years

the story of

Thomas Whelan Thomas Whelan was born on 5th October 1898 to John and Bridget Whelan of Gortrommagh, Clifden, the fifth in a family of thirteen children. He attended school at Belleek and Clifden until the age of 15 and worked on his fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farm and as a messenger boy for Monsignor McAlpine P.P of Clifden. At the age of 18, he moved to Dublin where he boarded in Ringsend and worked at Bolandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s flour mill and the Broadstone North Western Railway. Accounts of his personality and demeanour consistently paint a picture of a conscientious, good humoured and articulate young man, who was a fine singer and a possessed of a deep faith.

left: Thomas Whelan / Thomas Whelan Memorial - photos courtesy of Catherine Pryce

The Story of Thomas Whelan

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However, in an atmosphere of retribution for the losses sustained by the British, the prosecution prevailed and Tommie Whelan was sentenced to death by hanging at the age of 22. 58 - Clifden 200 – A Reflection on 200 Years

Once in Dublin, Tommie (as he was known to friends and family) joined the Volunteers, though it is doubtful whether he had any military training. On the morning of ‘Bloody Sunday’ (21st November 1920) under the direction of Michael Collins, an IRA squad assassinated 12 high profile British secret service agents and 2 Auxiliary policemen. Retaliation for this unprecedented attack on the ‘eyes and ears’ of British intelligence in the capital was swift and devastating. The shooting of civilians at Croke Park in the afternoon was followed by an intensive sweep of the city in an effort to arrest and identify those who had carried out the morning’s assassinations. Tommie Whelan was arrested on 23rd November and taken to Kilmainham where he was identified in a line-up by an occupant of No. 119 Baggot St, where the shooting of a Captain Bagally had taken place. Without realising the implications, he admitted to a British intelligence officer that he was a member of A Company, 3rd Battalion of the IRA, though insisted from the very outset that he was entirely innocent of any alleged wrongdoing. He was charged, along with three others,

with the murder of Captain G.T. Bagally before a closed Field General Court Martial. The prosecution relied on the evidence of two witnesses, an English Army Officer and a private soldier. The three other men who stood trial with him were acquitted on the basis of uncertainty about their identification, an issue that would turn out to be deeply relevant to the murder they were accused of. The defence produced no less than 5 witnesses who all gave alibis that at the time of the murder, Thomas had been seen at Mass in Ringsend Church. However, in an atmosphere of retribution for the losses sustained by the British, the prosecution prevailed and Tommie Whelan was sentenced to death by hanging at the age of 22. He was then sent to Mountjoy prison, from where he wrote a number of poignant letters to his friends and family in Clifden. Along with his cellmate, Patrick Moran of Crossna, Co. Roscommon, he steadfastly maintained a positive and courageous outlook, befriending and supporting his fellow prisoners and even the prison guards, and enjoying regular visits from priests and nuns with whom he shared a deep rapport. He sang often and is remembered in many accounts as extraordinarily

sincere, with an unshakeable belief that he would go to his death an innocent man, who prayed for the forgiveness of those who had wrongly condemned him. Indeed, the years since have yielded up considerable evidence that he was innocent of the crime for which he paid the ultimate price. Before his execution his mother, Bridget Whelan, who had never previously travelled by train, set out for Dublin from Clifden alone, clad in the long black skirt of a country woman and the traditional Galway shawl of which she was justifiably proud. During her time in Dublin, she impressed many she met with her dignity and strength and she was befriended by many leading republicans of the day including Maud Gonne McBride. She visited her son in his prison cell on the eve of his execution when he sang for her ‘The Shawl of Galway Grey’. On her emergence to the crowd of approximately 40,000 people who lined the streets in support of the prisoners, she remarked that her son was ‘as happy as if he was going to a football match’. The crowds held an all night vigil and at 6am, Thomas Whelan was hanged along with five others. The Story of Thomas Whelan

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Many of Tommie’s letters, writings and personal effects are on permanent display in Kilmainham Gaol Museum in Dublin... A lengthy campaign followed for over 80 years to have ‘The Forgotten Ten’, the ten men executed in 1920 and 1921, reinterred from an unmarked mass grave inside Mountjoy. In 2001, they were given the honour of a full State funeral and buried in Glasnevin Cemetery, Dublin. Regrettably, his last remaining immediate family member, my grandfather Joe Whelan, did not live to see his brother reburied with full State honours, having passed away only a few months earlier, aged 94. Their mother Bridget Whelan died aged 96 in 1960, having lived to see the monument in Clifden erected in memory of her son. As a family, they had lived through a truly dark period in Irish history, having experienced the effects of the War of Independence and the Civil War on their own local community, the burning of Clifden on 17th March 1921, and later, the burning of the Coastguard Station and the Ballyconree Orphanage. Many of Tommie’s letters, writings and personal effects are on permanent display in Kilmainham Gaol Museum in Dublin and commemoration ceremonies are held at his memorial monument in Clifden town centre each year at Easter time. Catherine Pryce left: British author Ethel Mannin and Bridget Whelan right: Joe Whelan with his graddaughters Regina and Catherine Pryce

The Story of Thomas Whelan

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62 - Clifden 200 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection on 200 Years

The Clifden Races at wood’s field

The Clifden Races were held in what is known as Wood’s field, where Clifden Glen is today. The original house was built by Patrick D’Arcy as a hunting lodge and was then purchased by the Woods’ family who lived there for almost forty years, which is how it came to have its name. Below are some memories that Joe McGrath of Clifden shared with me and also a piece written by Toby Joyce whose father owned Wood’s field for many years. – Sheila Griffin

left: photo courtesy of Marie O’Sullivan

The Clifden Races at Wood's Field

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The Clifden Races were one of the highlights of the year in Clifden, a festival held on the August Bank Holiday weekend. 64 - Clifden 200 – A Reflection on 200 Years

Memories from Joe McGrath The Clifden Races were one of the highlights of the year in Clifden, a festival held on the August Bank Holiday weekend. The day started with races for the youth at the Courthouse where relay, cycle, and individual races were held. In the 1930s, cross country races took place out along the green field between the Galway Road and the Railway Station (Station House Bar now) and prizes were presented to those who were lucky enough to win. In the afternoon, everyone made their way to Wood’s field, where Dr. Joe Casey manned the entrance gate. It cost a shilling to get it in, which was a lot in those times – however the young lads often found other ways of entry which weren’t quite as prohibitive for them! The races themselves were ‘flapper’ races which meant that they weren’t under any particular rules. Ponies came from the local area and further afield and well known enthusiasts like Miss Garnet Irwin both supported and took part in the races. There was always a great air of festivity with tents of sweet sellers, games, and other amusements. To end the day, there was a dance in the Town Hall and one of these was my very first dance as I was allowed to go with my brother who was home. Admission to the dance was 6 shillings, which included a meal supplied by Lydon O’Neill’s and so ended a very happy and exciting day for everyone in the town and around. right: photo courtesy of Marie O’Sullivan

65 65

The Clifden Races at Wood's Field --

66 - Clifden 200 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection on 200 Years

Memories from Toby Joyce The Clifden Races and the Connemara Pony Show both centred on horses, but they were as different as rugby from croquet. At the Pony Show, Clifden invited in the outside world, including TV and national newspapers, so it had an altogether more sober and formal air. The races were a light-hearted romp; a present Clifden gave to itself for its own enjoyment. Besides the horse races, there was a donkey derby, and I remember once a motocross race, where some of the local young men showed off their motorcycles. There was also a tradition of running foot races for the local schoolboys at the Galway Road in the morning, but that died out at the end of the 1950s. The Clifden Races could never be held today because there were several safety nightmares to frighten off the insurance men, such as a big open field, with only a rope barrier at the final straight. They took place where Clifden Glen now stands, and children often drifted away to play at the river, quite shallow in places, but also with deep pools elsewhere. The Mannions of Clifden opened a bar, but I can recall no drunkenness, only a lot of merriment. There were hoop-la prizes at the stalls, left: photo courtesy of Marie O’Sullivan

and big loud men were there every year, demanding that you play their gambling contrivances-wheels, tickets and checkerboards where you tried to drop a penny into a square. One, I recall, would continually bellow that he was losing so much to the punters that he would need a lift home-which never happened, of course. My mother used to call them ‘trick o’ the loops’, an old term for con artists and there were also bookies around, who probably handled the most money on the day. Many of the horses were local ponies, but there was a tradition that some of the less successful owners at the Galway Races might bring their horses on to Clifden, where the races were held just after the Galway event. One year, Micheal O’Hehir, RTE’s most celebrated sports commentator, gave it a plug during the Galway racing week. In many ways, it may have been Clifden’s version of a Celtic Harvest Festival, signalling the end of summer pursuits before the onset of the colder, wetter autumn and winter. For us, children at the time, it meant a great day out in our own town. Since our father owned the field then, we helped clean up, and got a bonus from the sixpences and shillings dropped by the race goers. The Clifden Races at Wood's Field

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Clifden c. 1890 courtesy of the National Library

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Clifden c. 1895 courtesy of the National Library Historical Photo Gallery --69 69

Clifden c. 1904 courtesy of the National Library

70 70-- Clifden 200 Programme â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Reflection and onSouvenir 200 Years Booklet

Clifden c. 1920 courtesy of the National Library Historical Photo Gallery --71 71

Acknowledgements On behalf of the Clifden 200 committee, we wish to express our gratitude to the many people and organisations that have made this book a reality. The year 2012 promises to be an exciting one for the town and its hinterland, for our community to celebrate our shared heritage and to welcome home the thousands whose forefathers left these shores to seek a better life in the last two hundred years. Our events are a mix of history and heritage, of celebration and remembrance. Firstly I wish to thank and acknowledge my fellow committee members who have given freely of their time, effort and expertise to ensure the 200th anniversary of the founding of Clifden is celebrated and remembered in great style. The committee comprises of Breandan O’Scanaill (chairperson); Declan Mannion, Michele Hehir, Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill, Michael Gibbons, Shane Joyce, Charlie Bourke, Sheila Griffin and Pat Walshe. However the voluntary work of the committee does rely on finance and support to ensure that our programme of events is varied whilst stimulating the mind of both young and old to leave a lasting legacy for future generations. This publication is one element of our work. It has been made possible with thanks to LEADER funding from our principal supporters Forum Connemara. We express our ongoing appreciation to the CEO of Forum Mr Johnny Coyne and his board members and to the invaluable assistance and support of Karen Mannion in promoting our efforts. We also

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thank Galway County Council and the ongoing support of County Manager Martina Maloney and her officials, in particular the work of their heritage officer Marie Mannion who has been an invaluable support to the committee. Failte Ireland have provided expertise and experience and we acknowledge the help and support of John Concannon, Fiona Monaghan, Brian Quinn and Ciara Flaherty in bringing our ideas and projects to fruition. The Connemara Chamber of Commerce through Brian Hughes, his fellow board members and the Clifden local lotto committee have stood behind our project from the start. Their generous support has enabled us to open funding doors which would have otherwise been closed to us. A lot of work has already been done in getting both our website and publication from idea to reality. We’d like to thank Noel Mannion and Catherine Lavoie for all their advice and expertise in getting our work to date into the public domain through our exciting website www.clifden2012.org and the design and layout of this publication. Through the support of Galway County Council we have been able to employ Catherine Pryce as our administrator. We’d like to especially thank her for all the work she has done on the entire project and the dedication and experience she has brought to the role. But finally to our friends, the members of the community who have (and continue to be) signed up as supporters of the Clifden bicentenary celebrations. Their financial contribution and their support for the committee efforts give us all great encouragement to carry on in this project on behalf of the entire community. Without our friends of 2012, the project simply wouldn’t be possible. Declan Mannion

The Clifden 2012 Committee wishes to sincerely thank their sponsors without whom none of this would have been possible.

FRIENDS OF CLIFDEN 2012 Their community support has been invaluable and that they came forward in such numbers encouraged the committee to greater efforts as we knew we were on the right track.

John & Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill Paula & Peter Vine Maurice & Alex O’ Scannaill Joe & Colette McGrath Jack & Julia Foyle Charlie & Marie Bourke Cyril Joyce Cllr. Eileen Mannion Sheila Griffin & Rod Teck Alan & Sandra Shattock JJ & Kay Mitchell Brian & Michelle Hughes Brian & Michele Hehir Terry & Karen Sweeney Brendan & Sally Madden Nessa Joyce Kevin & Jennifer Barry Dr. Ciaran & Ann MacLoughlin JJ & Catriona Mannion Seán Kyne TD Éamon & Áine O’Cuív T.D. Cllr. Thomas Welby Declan & Kiara Mannion Seán & Mairéad Heanue Marty & Patricia Faherty Richard & Ciara Flaherty Dr. Noreen Casey Donnie & Val Bermingham Rev. Anthony & Mrs Christina Previté Rev. Dennis & Mrs Leslie Sandes

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To see our annual programme of events visit clifden2012.org or join us on facebook.com/clifden2012 Design and layout by Connemara Publications: connemarapublications.ie

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