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james halliday’s

drink

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c o m p a n i o n

200

ew the nssa

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wines tasted & rated

Say hola to

ARGENTINA wine, FOOd & tOO much Fun

beef five ways Delicious Drinks to match

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DISCOVER PALE ALE

it’s all about the flavour

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VIRGINIA’S WAY

why vasse felix is flying

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wine authority

TEMPRANILLO

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we love this sPanish red

James halliday

Reveals his pinot noir picks

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Chef &

Cook &

Chef & author

restaurateur

food produCer

marion grasby

adrian riChardson

Shares his top indulgences

On her wine highs and lows

Meets the beef brief

tetsuya wakuda


IN THIS ISSUE APRIL/ MAY

EAT

UPFRONT

CONTENTS

04

58 65 66

44

70 73

Vasse Felix winemaker Virginia Willcock shares her story.

24

Do you judge a book by its cover?

Wine labels

30

Tempranillo

80

My Cellar

88

Marion Grasby reflects on wine

36

James Halliday on...

How to explore pinot noir

38

Share plate wine matches

Diet wines

We look at this growing market

Memories of great wine

Wine writer Ken Gargett on the wine that changed it all

Regulars

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Photography / Catherine Sutherland Stylist / Sonia Paterson Glassware / Schott Zwiesel

Mendoza

What to see, eat, drink and do in this beautiful area of Argentina

The Barossa Valley

We break it down to 25 must-dos for any Barossa itinerary

Barossa wineries

Discover just some of the Barossa’s proudly regional and quality producers

Pale ale

54

Cover Contributors

Dessert and drink duos

Four decadently different desserts and their drink pairings

A brilliant first step to different beer

50

www.winecompanion.com.au

96

How to pair wine to many flavours

41

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The importance of flavour

Food grower Andrew Wood shares his thoughts on fresh produce

TRAVEL

The rise of this great Spanish red

34

APR / MAY 2012

d’Arenberg chef Peter Reschke

DRINK

47M

Restaurant review

Take a day out around Mt Tamborine, Queensland

We chat to Peter, who loves what he does at this family owned winery

Virginia’s Way

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Beef five ways

Our story on Argentina inspired us to get creative with beef

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106

Welcome

6

Letters

8

News

10

Events

16

Q&A

18

For & Against

20

Bin End

130

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200 TasTing Ting nOTEs James Halliday’s tasting notes

• Tasting notes and details for 100 current Aussie releases • 50 top picks from Australian Wine Companion 2012, including pinot noir and termpranillo.

1122

Ben Edwards on imports • 50 international wines, including ncluding Argentinean malbecs for anyone inspired by Ben’s story on page 80.


80 34

30

38

Contributors

Writer Tempranillo { p30}

Tyson sTelzer Tyson is a wine writer who was named International Champagne Writer of the Year 2011 in The Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards. He has written and published 13 wine books, and contributed to Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine. He regularly writes for 13 magazines, including Decanter.

there’s nothing better than slow-Cooked ribs … you can get both hands in there and just piCk it up and eat it.

Photographer Cover image The beef brief { p58} Sweet talk { p73} CATHerIne sUTHerlAnD Catherine specialises in editorial and lifestyle photography. Her portfolio is particularly strong in food, interiors and travel, with her atmospheric work featuring in award-winning magazines. This issue, she takes us on a delicious journey, having shot our recipe spreads that feature beef and a range of desserts with their drink matches.

Chef The beef brief { p58}

ADrIAn rICHArDson

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46

5888

Despite almost pursuing life as a pilot, Adrian has gone on to cement himself in the food and media world. With La Luna Bistro in Melbourne’s Carlton, two books and several TV cooking programs to his name, his passion for quality produce is second to none. This issue, Adrian provides five mouthwatering recipes to showcase beef in all its glory, including a step-by-step guide to making sausages.

05


44

winemaker

wild

at heart Words campbell mattinson PHoToGrAPHY Frances andrijich

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M Vasse Felix winemaker Virginia willcock is a Force Pbe reckoned with and you can almost taste it to LEwines. she’s now set herselF the crusade in the oF bringing the estate’s wines back home . O N LY


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Wine authority

James Halliday

How to

ExPLoRE PInoT

APR / MAY 2012

www.winecompanion.com.au

Pinot noir is the doyen of the ‘lighter’ red wine grapes. Some consider that it makes the world’s best wines, full stop. James Halliday walks us through one of his favourite wine styles.

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hen did I become obsessed (as I am) with pinot noir? By the end of the 1960s I had accumulated a lot of knowledge about Australian wine, and had embarked on the search for what became the Brokenwood winery a year or two later. Pinot noir was an oddity: I purchased some bottles of 1966 Seppelt Great Western Bin U36, and belatedly realised the worst of its many problems was that it had re-fermented in bottle.

In the late 1960s and the first half of the ’70s, under the ever-present tutelage of Len Evans, I drank a lot of great (cabernet-based) Bordeaux and assembled a now thoroughly depleted Bordeaux-biased cellar. But then something happened: Len served me a glass of red wine as I stood standing with a few others in the living room of his house in Greenwich. The hairs stood up on the back of my neck as I smelt – and after some time, tasted – the wine. It was above and beyond any wine, red or white, that I had ever encountered. It was a 1962 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tache. I had been served the second-greatest red wine in the world and from that day forward I became utterly


25 reasons to visit the Barossa

the Barossa valley is a road well travelled but here we bring you 25 ways to get the very best from the region – just like a local. words // Dave Brookes


Mendoza SA

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Food, wine, adventure and play makes Argentina an irresistible destination. Throw in a journey to the Mendoza wine region and its stunning surrounds, and you may not want to leave. wORDS ben edwards

the magic of


60

beef Wine Match

Beer will refresh against this dish but if you want to cut through the richness, seek out the 2009 Tikal Patriota Bonarda Malbec blend from Mendoza, Argentina.

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There’s noThing hing beTTer Than slow-cooked ribs ThaT are sweeT, sTicky and delicious. you can geT boTh hands in There and jusT pick iT up and eaT iT. T T. PictUReD Smokey Texan beef ribs


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Wine authority

James Halliday’s

James Halliday

tasting notes

t Culreraesn es re

This issue, we bring you some outstanding current release wines from right around the country and all come highly recommended. While you will find more pinot noir notes later in this section, for this issue, I have selected three interesting examples to highlight below. Trying to unscramble the eggs where three pinots from three regions by three different winemakers come together is likely to provoke headaches or matrimonial dissent – or both. Here, at least, we have one winemaker who has not sought to be all too clever by changing winemaking techniques, nor has he felt constrained to use precisely the same techniques. He has – or may have – made minor changes to allow the terroir of each region maximum opportunity to express itself. Why not get a group of friends, blindfold the bottles and see if you can reach a meaningful consensus on the origin of these three wines?

95 2010 Farr Rising Regional Dirt Berrys Creek Gippsland Pinot Noir Clear crimson-purple; a wine with very different mouthfeel and flavour spectrum to the Geelong Pinot, more stemmy/spicy and with a finely detailed, almost slippery, palate. 13.5% alc.

RRP $40 2017

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94 2010 Farr Rising Regional Dirt Merricks Mornington Pinot Noir Bright purple-crimson; a fragrant bouquet leads into red berry/cherry flavours on the light-bodied but intense and long palate, notes of spice and stem coming with the tannins on the finish and aftertaste. 13.5% alc.

RRP $40 2016

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Farr Rising bbbbb www.byfarr.com.au

94 2010 Farr Rising Regional Dirt Tarrington Henty Pinot Noir

Similar colour to the Regional Dirt Merricks wine; the wine has the greatest range of flavours contrasting spiced plum with lemon zest/herbal savoury notes, the latter persisting on the finish; as with all four wines, whole bunch characters are obvious. 13.5% alc.

RRP $40 2016

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James Halliday's Wine Companion - April / May