March 25, 2011
Clayton Pioneer • www.claytonpioneer .com
For the love of butter LINDA WYNER
FOOD
FOR
THOUGHT
This week, I feel like I’m channeling Paula Deen, the selfstyled Queen of Butter. Every recipe I read or food show I’m looking at features tons of butter. Not that butter is a bad thing – as a matter of fact, it gets a bad rap from misinformation. Butter provides vitamins and minerals and supports a healthy immune system and hormone production. After World War II, however, butter was implicated in health problems. We now know that butter substitutes (margarine, shortening) and manmade transfats are the more likely health threat. Because it’s a fat, however, butter should be enjoyed in moderation. Humans have a close relationship to butter. Several thousand years ago, we domesticated cattle, water buffalo, camels, horses and yaks and started to milk those animals. Milk has a lot of fat in it, and when the cream portion is shaken, agitated or churned, the fat separates out and that’s butter. If you’ve not done so, you
should try making it so you can taste the joyous flavor of truly fresh butter. HOMEMADE BUTTER 1 pint heavy whipping cream (Choose one with no additives and avoid ultra-pasteurized. Try Trader Joes, Clover or Straus Creamery.) Let cream sit at room temperature until it is 60 degrees. Pour cream into a quart jar and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Shake the jar until globules of butter appear and most of the liquid has turned to a soft solid, 15-30 minutes. Drain the liquid (this is buttermilk). Add cold water to the jar and shake gently. Drain. Repeat until the liquid poured off is clear. You don’t want any residue of buttermilk since this will promote spoilage. Transfer butter to a cool marble or wood surface and use paddles or a spoon to press the butter to extract more liquid. You can add up to ¼ tsp. salt during this process if you want salted butter. Once no more liquid comes out, shape the butter, cover and refrigerate or freeze.
Butter browns and then burns at high temperatures, so its use in sautéing is somewhat limited. Lots of us add a little oil to butter to retard the browning, but it’s best to use clarified butter (a version of which is India’s ghee) for higher heat cooking. You can buy clarified butter, but it’s really easy to make. CLARIFIED BUTTER Gently melt unsalted butter over low heat until it breaks down into three layers. The top layer is a white foam, which contains the whey proteins. Skim this foam off with a spoon. The milk solids will drop to the bottom of the saucepan. In the middle is a golden-yellow liquid, which is the clarified butter. After skimming the foam, remove the pan from the heat and let the milk solids settle. Then strain the mixture through a double-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth or paper towels. Discard the milk solids. Eggs benedicts, broccoli and asparagus are perfect with Hollandaise sauce. While traditionalists would have you make it on the stovetop, I like to make it in the blender. BLENDER HOLLANDAISE SAUCE Makes 1½ cups
Sole Amandine
Travel, from page 16 guide we hired on Monday was the one who was hired to drive the president’s team of snipers and be part of the entourage. I’ve been asked whether it is safe to walk around the town at night. Yes, definitely. You should feel safer in most parts of Puerto Vallarta than in the United States. There is little crime there and it’s usually petty compared to in the United States. The tourist police are friendly and helpful. Use common sense and be careful. Leave fancy jewelry at home. After dark, stay on the main streets and do not wander on the beaches. Never flash large amounts of money. Another common question is, “Can I drink the water?” Puerto Vallarta has the clean-
est water in Mexico. The water is treated and purified, but the distribution system is not perfect. In most hotels and restaurants, you will get purified water. If in doubt – ask “Auga purificada?” I would not drink the water from a private home or condo unless you know there is a purification system installed and working. To be completely safe, buy bottled water. Don’t take the chance of ruining your vacation. Next time, I’ll talk about transportation as well as some of the food and restaurants to try. Recently retired, Clayton resident Peggy Bidondo is a tireless traveler with a passion for travel planning and writing. Send your questions and column ideas to Peggy Bidondo at timetogo@claytonpioneer.com.
3 egg yolks ½ tsp salt Dash cayenne pepper 1 T. heavy cream 1 c. unsalted clarified butter, melted 1 T. lemon juice or white wine vinegar Place egg yolks, salt, pepper and cream in blender. Blend for a few seconds at high speed until you have a smooth, frothy
Dentistry
mixture. With blender running, add half of the hot butter in a thin, steady stream. Add lemon juice or vinegar and finish with the rest of the butter. Taste and add more salt, cayenne or white pepper to your preference. Browned butter or beurre noisette is a classic French sauce and should be part of your cooking repertoire. It couldn’t be simpler. Just melt butter and continue to cook it over medium to medium high heat until it browns. The milk solids in the butter will develop a beautiful nutty flavor. Here’s one use for filet of sole. SOLE AMANDINE 6 oz. sole, flounder or other flatfish per person Flour for dredging Salt and pepper 1 T. butter 1 T. olive oil 2 T. sliced almonds Season flour with salt and pepper. Dredge fish in the seasoned flour and set aside. Preheat nonstick skillet over medium high heat. Add butter and olive oil. When butter has completely melted and is beginning to foam, add fish. Cook 23 minutes on one side. Turn over and repeat. Transfer fish to a serving plate. Add almonds to pan juices and sauté 30 seconds, allowing the butter to color to a rich brown shade. Spread evenly over fish. Linda Wyner, a local attorney and foodie, owns Pans on Fire, a gourmet cookware store and cooking school in Pleasanton. Direct your suggestions or questions to lwyner@claytonpioneer.com
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