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Welcome to Gothenburg and the Clarion Hotel Post. In this magazine we’ve tried to capture the special spirit of a city in transition – from blue collar industrial town to creative hotspot in everything from art and music to digital games and cutting edge advertising. Early on in the planning process, we decided that the Clarion Hotel Post should become a meeting place, a display window and an arena for this new Gothenburg. We referred to it as The New Face of Gothenburg, and when we decided to issue an​​ exclusive hotel magazine, the title was logical. The Clarion Hotel Post is a new kind of business hotel, rising right in the heart of the city. Even within Clarion’s selection of first-rate hotels, it is a stand-out gem. Not your ordinary hotel – not your ordinary hotel magazine.


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63° 24' 8.82" N – 13° 4' 37.55" E

DOWNHILL BIKING / ÅRE

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Here’s the app that transforms the tram into a sightseeing bus. It’s called Tram Sightseeing. Download it free to your smartphone, in with your earphones and hop aboard. Enjoy your ride!

UP UNTIL THE 19TH CENTURY, GOTHENBURG WAS SURROUNDED BY WALLS AND RAMPARTS AND THE CITY HAD THREE GATES WHICH WERE LOCKED AT NIGHT. HERE ON DROTTNINGTORGET SQUARE WAS THE SITE OF THE DROTTNINGPORTEN GATE, THE ENTRANCE TO GOTHENBURG FOR TRAVELLERS ARRIVING FROM THE EAST. AS TIME WENT ON, THE GATES FELL OUT OF USE AND DROTTNINGPORTEN WAS DEMOLISHED IN ABOUT 1810. THE STONE FROM THE GATE WAS USED TO FILL IN THE SECTION OF THE CITY RAMPARTS THAT USED TO RUN ALONG HERE AND DROTTNINGTORGET WAS BUILT ON THE SITE. THREE BUILDINGS THAT REPRESENT DIFFERENT WAYS IN WHICH GOTHENBURG COMMUNICATED WITH THE OUTSIDE WORLD. THE CENTRAL POST OFFICE WAS BUILT ON THE SITE OF THE FORMER POORHOUSE. TO THE LEFT OF THE SQUARE YOU CAN SEE HOTELL EGGERS. THIS HOTEL WAS ORIGINALLY BUILT BY A MERCHANT IN 1814. IT WAS REBUILT AFTER SEVERAL CHANGES OF OWNERSHIP BUT RETAINED THE NAME OF ONE OF ITS OWNERS FROM THE 1880S. FAMOUS GUESTS WHO HAVE STAYED HERE INCLUDE PRINCE BERTIL AND JUSSI BJÖRLING. THE CENTRAL STATION ON THE OTHER SIDE OF DROTTNINGTORGET WAS DESIGNED BY ADOLF W EDELSVÄRD, FAMOUS AS THE ARCHITECT FOR SWEDISH RAILWAYS IN THE LATTER HALF OF THE 19TH CENTURY. HE ALSO DESIGNED THE CENTRAL STATIONS IN MALMÖ AND STOCKHOLM. ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER LIE THE TRÄDGÅRDSFÖRENINGEN BOTANICAL GARDENS. THE PARK WAS CREATED BY THE GOTHENBURG GARDEN SOCIETY IN 1842 AND BETWEEN ABOUT 1845 AND 1850, GREENHOUSES, A HEAD GARDENER’S COTTAGE, A CAFÉ AND A MUSIC PAVILION WERE BUILT IN THE PARK. TODAY IT BOASTS ONE OF THE FINEST ROSE GARDENS IN EUROPE. ON THE RIGHT YOU CAN SEE THE OLD ULLEVI STADIUM. A SPORTS VENUE WAS BUILT HERE AS EARLY AS THE LATE 19TH CENTURY. IT WAS SIMPLY CALLED “IDROTTSPLATSEN”, WHICH LITERALLY MEANS “SPORTS PLACE”. IN 1916 A MODERN FOOTBALL PITCH WAS BUILT, AND NAMED “ULLERVI”, REFERRING TO A PLACE DEDICATED TO THE ANCIENT NORDIC GOD OF SPORT “ULL”. IN 1958 THE ARENA WAS RENAMED OLD ULLEVI FOLLOWING THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE NEW ULLEVI STADIUM. THE FOOTBALL CLUBS ÖRGRYTE IS, GAIS AND IFK GÖTEBORG STILL PLAY THEIR HOME MATCHES AT OLD ULLEVI TODAY, ALTHOUGH IN A NEWLY BUILT STADIUM. IT IS ALSO THE NATIONAL STADIUM FOR THE SWEDISH WOMEN’S TEAM. OUTSIDE OLD ULLEVI STANDS A STATUE OF GUNNAR GREN WHO PLAYED IN ALL THREE OF THE LOCAL CLUBS. HE PLAYED PROFESSIONALLY IN ITALY AND WAS IN THE SWEDISH NATIONAL SQUAD THAT TOOK SILVER IN THE 1958 WORLD CUP. AFTER PASSING OLD ULLEVI, WE CAN NOW SEE NEW ULLEVI, DESIGNED FOR THE 1958 WORLD CUP BY TWO ARCHITECTS FROM SKÅNE, FRITZ JAENECKE AND STEN SAMUELSSON. NEW ULLEVI IS UNDOUBTEDLY A MODERNIST BUILDING WITH A SLIGHTLY FUTURISTIC TOUCH, QUITE A COMMON STYLE FOR SPORTS ARENAS AND OTHER IMPOSING ARCHITECTURE FROM THE PERIOD. THE ARENA WAS EXPANDED AND UPDATED PRIOR TO THE ATHLETICS WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS IN 1995. A FEW YEARS AGO A PAIR OF EAGLE OWLS ATTRACTED A GREAT DEAL OF ATTENTION AT ULLEVI WHEN THEY DECIDED TO BUILD A NEST ON THE ROOF NEXT TO THE PYLON AT THE SOUTH END. “THE NORWEGIAN SEAMEN’S CHURCH” ON THE LEFT WAS BUILT IN 1958 TO DRAWINGS BY ARCHITECTS BLAKSTAD AND MUNTHE-KAAS. THE ARCHITECTURE IS CLEARLY NORWEGIAN IN STYLE. AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE WAS EXCAVATED TO THE NORTH-EAST OF THE CHURCH IN 2010. IT WAS DATED TO THE EARLY IRON AGE – 400 TO 200 BC – MAKING IT THE OLDEST INHABITED SITE FOUND IN THE CITY CENTRE. THE SCANDINAVIUM ARENA ON THE LEFT WAS ORIGINALLY A DETACHED BUILDING AND A CITY LANDMARK. HOWEVER, OVER TIME, ITS NEIGHBOUR THE SWEDISH EXHIBITION AND CONGRESS CENTRE, HAS CLOSED THE GAP, THANKS TO A NEW ENTRANCE BUILDING TO THE NORTH AND OTHER RENOVATION WORK. THE NEW ENTRANCE BUILDING IS IN STEEL WITH MINT GREEN DETAILS AND THE COLOUR OF THE FAÇADE WAS RECENTLY CHANGED FROM ORANGE TO GREY. THE ARCHITECT IN THE 1970S WAS POUL HULTBERG.

CONTENT:

9. Not your ordinary hotel General manager Daniel Stenbäck.

13. Going high-tech in wood

Designer Staffan Holm on his prizewinning stool.

17. Back to the future

A word from the Mayor of Gothenburg.

26. Handbags and gladrags From Gothenburg to the world.

32. Haga special

We’ve got it all mapped out for a really nice shopping spree.

38. CSI Gothenburg

Meet Sweden’s international crime writers.

44. Remember TV?

The discerning fashionista’s guide to the best the town has to offer.

46. Made In Gothenburg

He built this city on rock’n’roll. He is this city. This city loves him. Keep that in mind.

54. Håkan Hellström

Four foreigners on their new life in this old town.

62. Exile on Andra Långgatan 72. Introducing the ‘Halv Special’

Gothenburg’s own fast food classic.

78. A Night On The Town

Legendary cartoonist Johan Wanloo captures the creatures of the night.

84. The answer is blowing in the wind Gothenburg just installed Sweden’s biggest wind turbine.

93. Digital wizard

Jimmy Herdberg creates stuff that makes major brands go whoa, whoa mama!

11. ruben rules

After his disturbing movie Play director Ruben Östlund plans to drown movie audiences in snow.

16. MAGIC CARPET RIDE

Meet the world leader in contemporary flooring.

18. THE FACE

The life and times of designer Jens Thoms Ivarsson.

28. One more coffee for the road

The Godfather of Gothenburg java spills the beans.

36. The fashion scene

As seen through the eyes of Ted Hesselbom.

40. THE PLACE

Creative clubland on the bloody riverbanks.

Well, just forget it. The revolution starts here.

52. After The Goldrush

Contemporary fashion straight out of the 1800s.

60. Nudie jeans

Global brands? Nah, we’ll stick with our own blue jeans.

68. From the White House to the Post House

Marcus Samuelsson and Jimmy Lappalainen talk about their new adventure in cross-Atlantic cooking.

76. From fine dining to ...well, to Polish sausage

The restaurant guide.

80. Twisting by the pool

Architect Magnus Månsson on his work with the Clarion Hotel Post.

88. From dusk ’til dawn

24 hours in Gothenburg, a beginner’s guide.

97. National blog phenomenon

Blondinbella sets up shop in Gothenburg.

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Welcome into tomorrow’s living room

You’ll find Gothenburg’s only luxury department store at Östra Hamngatan 42. For over one hundred years now, NK has been the shopping venue for trendy Swedes and stylish tourists. Welcome to discover an extensive range of both northern European and foreign quality brands, embracing everything from beauty to interior design.

Of course, we could have been happy just to build a lovely hotel and then sit back and wait for the guests to come streaming in through the doors. But since we get a real kick out of creating value by making a difference, that would not have been enough. It would not have been right for the city of Gothen­ burg, which has allowed us into one of its finest locations. Nor would it have best served the dreams, expectations and enthusiasm of the people of Goth­ enburg. That’s why we created a hotel where everyone is always welcome, no matter whether you are doing business, meeting friends or just relaxing. And we want to achieve this in symbiosis with Gothenburg and its inhabitants. In the same way the ground moves when something big is coming, we feel that this city is vibrating – throbbing with creativity, restlessness and determination. Gothen­ burg is on the starting blocks of the future. We’re in the next lane, but it’s not a competition, more of a shared journey on which we want our hotel to be a positive force for change. Sweden’s second city is transforming itself, from steel and manufacturing to more creative enterprise. Our goal is to be a hub and meeting point for every­ one who believes in this development. It’s not in our nature to build something that shuts people out. This magazine, The New Face of Gothenburg, is another way to express openness and collaboration. We are highlighting people, ideas and businesses that could be considered our competitors. We are much happier to see them as brothers-in-arms. But, you might say, isn’t the world in trouble? The global economy is shaking, Europe is in crisis, and people are losing their jobs and their belief in the future. Well, all this is true. We are opening our doors at the bottom of an economic downturn. But we refuse to ignore the opportunities we see every day. Now is our chance to make an impact by focusing on oppor­ tunities rather than threats. But neither a big hotel, nor the city authorities, can create the new Gothenburg alone. A thriving city is built by inspired individuals. If you are still reading this, I believe you are also such an individual, whether you are from Hjällbo, Majorna, London or Mumbai. Daniel Stenbäck General Manager

MONDAY TO FRIDAY 10 AM – 7 PM. SATURDAY 10 AM – 5 PM. SUNDAY 12 AM – 4 PM. ÖSTRA HAMNGATAN 42. 031 –710 10 00. NK.SE

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Light in the winter darkness For eleven days in the midst of winter, tens of thousands of people will make their way into the cinemas of Gothenburg to watch films from Sweden, Scandinavia and the rest of the world. Over 130,000 tickets have been sold for 700 screenings, making the Göteborg International Film Festival the largest film festival in Scandinavia. The 2012 festival, which has its dazzling inaugural party at the Clarion Hotel Post on January 27, is paying special attention to films from the Arab countries. One of the films is No More Fear, which portrays the Tunisian revolution. Danish film is another area of special interest at this year’s festival. You can find out how Danish film is developing after the Dogme 95 film-making movement. Perhaps one of the most talked-about Swedish films

Ruben rules Ruben Östlund from Gothenburg has become one of cinema’s hottest directors, portraying grassroots crime in everyday life. His latest endeavor includes an ambitious challenge, attempting “the most spec­tacular avalanche scene in film history”.

George Clooney turned down the offer to play in director Alexander Paynes ”Sideways”. Seven years later they join forces in ”The Descendants”, premiering at Gothenburg International Film Festival.

this year is Avalon, but there are plenty of English language films at the 35th edition of the festival too. Among the representatives of the film industry in attendance is director Alexander Payne, whose latest film Descendants features George Clooney. Nordic Film Market, one of Scandinavia’s leading film markets, is represented at

the Göteborg International Film Festival. Nordic Film Market shows the latest and upcoming Scandinavian films for buyers and festival organizers all over the world during four intensive days. This combination of large, wide-ranging public access with a highly effec­ tive trade fair, makes the Göteborg International Film Festival unique.

The Göteborg Opera is loca­ted by the harbour in the centre of the city. A wide range of opera, dance and musicals are performed here for large and varied audiences. Current shows include the classical musical West Side Story, the

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opera Lady Macbeth Of Mtsensk by Dmitri Shostakovich and the dance piece noBody by Sasha Waltz. The opera house was completed in 1994 and is worth walking around. The architect, Jan Iskowitz, was inspired by the surrounding

landscape and he describes his building in the following poetic words: “Something that makes your senses soar above the meandering landscape like the wings of a seagull. Its form is inspired by its location amidst the impressive but diffuse landscape with its special light and openness alongside the technical concrete constructions in the harbour; the bridges hovering elegantly above the water; the framing of the harbour cranes, the strength, softness and elegance of the body of a ship, the wings of the seagull and faultless line of a sail.” We could not have put it better.

Photo: Helén Karlsson

West Side Opera

Ruben Östlund got his big break in 2008 with the feature film Involuntary, a painful, comic study of how you end up in strange and embarrassing situations with other people. It was nominated for Best Director at Cannes and was Sweden’s Oscar-contribution for Best non-English language film. In 2010 Östlund won a Golden Bear in Berlin for the short film Incident by a bank and his recent feature film Play won great acclaim at Cannes in 2011 with a Coup de Coeur, meaning it was the festival management’s favourite movie. Play is based on real cases and describes how a group of black immigrants mug their white peers for their mobile phones and other valuables. These are crimes that are presented with a great sense of psychology, but the subject has still managed to invoke allegations of racism. The director himself appreciates the debate. He says he has just described a reality where the traditional image of society gains new dimensions. When victims become offenders. When the powerless gain superiority. Ruben Östlund is currently working in Canada on a film called Tourist. This new work focuses on off-piste skiing, where people who think they are in control find themselves in an extreme situation. Östlund knows this subject well. He is an off-piste enthusiast who started his career with ski movies such as Addicted and Free Radicals. He is already promising an avalanche story that beats anything previously presented on the silver screen...

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Spin Doctor

SPRINGSTEEN, WARHOL OR ANDRA LÅNGDAGEN Sing about hungry hearts along with 75.000 others. Enjoy one of the greatest pop art-artists up close. Relax in a different style of block party in the old working quarters. Gothenburg has it all. All year round. Welcome back!

A selection of events in 2012: P3 GuLD AwARDs 21/1, suRRouNDiNG bAcoN AND wARhoL 17/3-12/8, LALEh 20/4, KENt 14/7, bRucE sPRiNGstEEN 27-28/7, wAy out wEst 9-11/8, KuLtuRKALAsEt 14-19/8. find more events in the events cAlendAr At goteborg.com

Every new piece must stimulate a human response. That’s the proud aim of Gothenburg designer Staffan Holm when he sketches his stools, chairs, tables and candle­ sticks. Triggering an emotion in the buyer of his work, and not just contributing to more consumption, is important for him. Staffan Holm is not averse to using modern technology to achieve his aims. A good example of the fruitful interaction between ambitious handicraft and modern industry is a new stool range called Spin, which is inspired by Alvar Aalto’s famous Stool 60. An apparently simple stacking chair, but one that posed considerable production challenges. Staffan Holm wanted the leg to curve in two directions, which was initially considered impossible. But together with the producer they managed to achieve it, developing a form pressing technique at the same time. “A mix of manual craft and high tech manufacturing,” as Staffan Holm himself describes it. Spin was chosen as Furniture of the Year 2011 for its excellent and innovative design. But this was by no means the first time this young designer has won an award. His Newton sofa table won several prizes two years ago, including the Nordic Design Prize 2009, and the characteristic table can be found in any furniture store that cares for its reputation. Naturally, as the awards have come rolling in, so have new assign­ ments. The future looks bright for Staffan Holm.

Chair man. Designer Staffan Holm with his stool Spin, last years Furniture of the Year in Sweden.

scan the Qr-code and download the cityguide göteborg

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Business in progress IHM operates in a business community in constant change. We continually adapt our courses and programmes to the needs and demands of working professionals, and to the supply of experience and knowledge from business professionals. More than 30,000 IHM alumni know that our offering brings direct benefits both today and into the future. We believe in lifelong learning for individuals and organizations.


A new recipe for the future

S t o r y: Barbro Wennergren

With Artisan, Bolon has fused together the small-scale creativity with the opportunities presented by today’s technologies. The new collection was launched at the Stockholm Furniture Fair in February 2011.

Magic Carpet Ride Granddad would be amazed if he knew. His small, local carpet-weaving workshop has grown into a dyna­mic international design company. This is all thanks to his two grandchildren, who unfortunately he never got the chance to meet. Bolon Flooring is a genuine ‘rags to riches’ story with two sisters as the leading ladies. International design awards seem to rain down on Annica and Marie Eklund, who time after time appear on the cover of various design and business magazines. They have run Bolon, the world-leader in woven vinyl flooring, since 2003. A lot has happened since their grandfather Nils Erik Eklund founded

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Bolon back in 1949. His business concept was to use textile waste to make rag-rugs. Unfortunately the sisters didn’t get to meet their granddad who died far too young. In 1993 it was Annica and Marie’s turn to take over the company. Woven vinyl flooring was launched back in 1993 and it was here that the sisters saw the biggest potential. They chose to combine the hard-wearing vinyl

flooring with exclusive design. The flooring would be aesthetically pleasing and adorn public spaces all over the world. The idea proved to be right. By concentrating on using top designs, the dream scenario has become a reality. Design gurus like Campana, Tom Dixon, Cappellini and Paul Smith are proud to be associated with Bolon. Armani has been a loyal customer for many years. Bolon is also at the forefront of all relevant environmental issues. Finding new innovative solutions for sustainable development is a high priority. Environmental collaboration with the Chalmers University of Technology in Gothenburg has been particularly rewarding.

As much as 97 per cent of production is exported. Bolon recently supplied flooring for Italy’s tallest skyscraper, yet another prestigious assignment. The company’s dominant market is Europe, closely followed by Asia, Africa and South America. Major in­vest­ments are also being made in India, Latin America and the US. The future is clearly staked out and nothing less than developmental domination is good enough. Bolon has tripled its sales since the sisters took over, but according to Annica this is just the beginning. An amazing SEK 70 million is now being invested in buildings and machinery for Bolon to continue being the world-leader in environmental issues, technology and design.

Gothenburg’s skyline has a new face. We welcome its appearance. But what really pleases us most is that this new face is based on an aged beauty. The Clarion Hotel Post is a fantastic combination of Gothen­ burg’s history and its future. This is a classic mix, expres­ sing forward-looking dynamism with a feel for the past. The new hotel breathes new life into Drottningstorget and I really hope to see light and people fil­ ling this area from now on. Gothenburg architect Ernst Torulf deigned the original main Post Office building in neoclassic style, and in 1925 it was not only the biggest post office in the Nordic region and Sweden’s most expensive construction in its time, it was also Gothenburg’s most impressive property. I can remember when I was little how I thought it looked like a castle. The stone steps and enormous hall made a big impression on a small child. But times change and post offices move on. The location and the premises eventually proved impractical. A new terminal was built on the other side of the rail­ way line and a cultural icon was emptied of life, even though parts of it were still occasionally used

for theatrical performances. The idea of using the post office buil­ ding for a hotel was an exciting one. When major events come to the city – sporting events, rock concerts, etc. – Gothenburg needs lots of hotel accommodation of all sorts. We are very proud that Gothen­burg offers so many activities for so many people, and we are proud of what we can offer in terms of vibrant entertainment, fantastic natural scenery, prizewinning gourmet food, exciting sporting spectacle, beautiful architecture and a great wealth of artistic and cultural activity. The hotel project is now com­pleted and on behalf of the people of Gothenburg I would like to wish all visitors a warm welcome and say how happy I am that this old and beloved buil­ ding has been brought back to life. It’s impressive to see how the high-profile new development fits in so perfectly with the old archi­tecture. The post office that became a hotel has become an ex­citing new face in Gothenburg, combining the best of two worlds, the best of two Gothenburg epochs. Anneli Hulthén Mayor and Chairman of the City Executive Board

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Enter Iceman S t o r y: Johan Lindgren

While most of us spend nine to five pushing pencils or sitting in front of a computer, a select few are working with the basic products of the earth. Like fire, ice, granite and heavy metal. Designer Jens Thoms Ivarsson is master of all the above. That’s why Karl Lagerfeld stopped by to meet him.


Clockwise from left: 1. Creating Tengil from a 2,5 ton heavy stump of elm at Liseberg amusement park in Gothenburg. 2. The sculpture 60 Degrees in magnetite concrete at Torne Älv. 3. Jens and Mats with Karl Lagerfeld at the Paris Fashion Fair 2010. 4. Preparing one of the sculptures for the De Luxe Suite at Ice Hotel in Jukkasjärvi.

ens Thoms Ivarsson is an internationally renowned designer, but is still relatively unknown in Sweden. International magazines like the Monocle and Wallpaper have written about Jens’ work and his company, Thoms & Nilsson, still few people in Sweden know anything about Thoms & Nilsson, but that doesn’t worry Jens. Things are bound to change though. A series of high profile assignments will no doubt put him in the spotlight whether he likes it or not. Jens’ grandfather and mother are both active artists and his father is a restoration architect so it would be an understatement to say that he has art and design in his blood. But his career path was not as obvious as we might think. He was born in Gothenburg in December 1972, but while still very young moved to the small town of Sölvesborg in Blekinge. It was actually fate that decided where the rebellious teenager would start his professional career. “I was travelling past a quarry a few days before my graduation. I thought it looked exciting so I went to the office and asked for a job. School finished on the Friday and I started at the quarry on the Monday,” he says. “He just came in one day. He said: ‘I know nothing but I promise to learn’. It’s unusual for someone with that attitude to come and ask for a job,” says Mats Nilsson, a fourth generation quarryman and the man whose company became Jens’ first workplace. Jens was employed by Mats for two years, but finally had to leave due to a lack of work. He moved back to Gothenburg and it was a further eight years before Mats and Jens worked together again. Apart from working at the quarry Jens and Mats were also reserve firemen and when Jens returned to

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Gothenburg he wanted to become a full-time fireman. He did all he could to get the job. He drove taxis at night to learn the street layout and also worked out at the gym. He continued working with stone, but also tried out jobs such as a stucco worker, ambulance driver, boxing trainer, bouncer at a night club, drum tech and tour manager for the Swedish rock band Hardcore Superstar. In between jobs Jens took evening classes in painting and drawing before entering the design department at The School of Design and Crafts in Gothenburg. The fourth year he studied at Ravensbourne School of Design and Communication in London, but returned to Gothenburg in time for his Masters. It was when Jens was about to do his finals that he and Mats joined forces once again on another project. “I knew I wanted to work with stone so I made a mold and asked Mats to cast it for me,” he says. The work resulted in the highly acclaimed “Tradition”, which was also the start of the Thoms & Nilsson company. In 2002 they decided to transform uninteresting everyday products into something people would pay attention to. Their ambition was to combine art and design and to mix experience with functionality, where the design highlights the idea, with a combined emphasis on the use of durable materials and high quality craftsmanship. “I choose the most boring products out there that we just don’t pay any attention to - a park bench, a washbasin or a wastepaper basket. They’re not exciting are they? How do I then turn these objects into something that’ll make you smile?” he says. He sees humour and pleasure as main themes in his designs and he believes this is because he’s from Gothenburg. “People from Gothenburg can’t stop themselves from telling a joke, even when we know nobody will find it funny, but we’ll tell it anyway. But I’m also active in a prestigious industry where I believe we need more humour.”

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Clockwise from top left: 1. A birdbath called Watch, made out of diabase. 2. Icy interior from the icebar in Jukkasjärvi in 2009. 3. Colourful bar at ICEBAR BY ICEHOTEL in London, open until September 2012.

“Stone and ice are my favorite materials, possibly because they are one another’s opposites, but the work is identical.”

ith some finished products Jens and Mats decided to exhibit their works. Jens had also decided to do something with the famous architect Gert Wingårdh. Jens finally got a meeting after nagging for four months. This resulted in the “Objekt” exhibition at Sölvesborg’s Art Gallery, where Thoms & Nilsson, together with Gert Wingårdh, exhibited design and architecture. The gallery’s management was initially skeptical whether an art gallery was the right place for the exhibition, but Jens stood his ground and the exhibition was a success. The meeting of art and functional design is something that particularly interests Jens. “I think art has an extremely important function. There’s something wholesome in the fact that it’s not completely functional. This makes us reflect, switch off our autopilot and think for ourselves.” One dark autumn evening back in 2003 Jens was sitting in front of his TV watching a programme about the world-famous Icehotel in Jukkasjärvi. “I was fascinated. I called them up and told them I was a designer and asked if I could come up and try my hand at ice sculpting. I didn’t tell Mats until everything was finalised, then we just left. As we were used to working with our hands it was wonderful to work with ice.” Arne Berg, artistic manager at the Icehotel vividly remembers the first time Jens arrived in Jukkasjärvi. “He really was a happy, eager person from Gothenburg. I thought it showed huge commitment for someone to come all this way just to learn.”

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Since then Jens and Mats have worked with the Icehotel for nearly ten years. The work has meant that they’ve designed and built interiors on behalf of the Icehotel on site in Jukkasjärvi. It’s also meant a lot of travelling around the world as business representatives for icebars. ICEBAR by Icehotel is a concept created by the Icehotel giving different designers the chance of creating their own interpretations on a specific theme, which is then built with ice from the River Torne in various cities around the world. Jens and Mats have built and designed ice bars in Tokyo, Copenhagen, Gothenburg, Jukkasjärvi and most recently in London. “Stone and ice are my favorite materials, possibly because they are one another’s opposites, but the work is identical. You start with a block and then chip away until you reveal a shape. But ice has an intrinsic beauty and is a seductive material. It’s also magical to work with it because it’s forgiving and it melts.” Jens is an individual unafraid of taking the initiative and will quite simply just call or knock on the door of people he finds interesting. When Thoms & Nilsson were given the task of creating an ice and snow catwalk for Chanel during the Paris Fashion Week 2010, Karl Lagerfeld stopped by to have a look. Jens didn’t hesitate. He presented the design icon with Thoms & Nilssons’ pink leaflet, and also gave Lagerfeld a tip that he should wear rubber boots when walking about on the melting catwalk. “Karl laughed and shook my hand. The next day he came back to chat some more. Not in boots though”, says Jens.

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S t o r y: Malin Kiriazidou

The story of Monki is yet another fashion success story from Gothenburg. Now owned by the mighty H&M retail-clothing company, the magic world of Monki is available at 54 stores in eight countries.

m nki bizniz Formed in 2003, Swedish fashion

OM 150 ÅR

sensation Weekday quickly found success, mainly with its Cheap Monday proprietary jeans brand. Three years later, little sister Monki opened its first hometown store in Gothenburg. Monki is now the big success story, with 54 stores in eight countries, compared with Weekday’s 20 stores in five countries. Founders Adam and Linda Friberg already knew before the first store opened its doors that Monki would succeed. Quite simply, they were convinced they were onto a winner. “We had an idea for a completely new world of fashion, and since we knew that no-one had ever done this before at this level, we were certain it would work,” explains Ulrika LissDaniels, Monki’s marketing manager. It’s not only about the clothes. Monki has created a magical new world in which trendy young women can dream themselves away. Every­

EN JUBILEUMSUTSTÄLLNING PÅ GÖTEBORGS STADSMUSEUM.

WWW.STADSMUSEUM.GOTEBORG.SE

thing starts with a little creature called Monki who together with other tame spirits inhabits the little Monki universe. This world of whimsy has inspired various store concepts. Entering one of the wildly decorated Monki stores is like climbing into a fantasy. When the first Monki store opened on Södra Larmgatan in Gothenburg with its bold interior of green shelves and dark aisles, word spread like wildfire through the Swedish fashion industry. Monki delivered young buyers something they had never been granted before – an extremely specific concept that dared to be personal and had no intention of being shy. “The stores were the key channel into our target group,” says Ulrika. “We aimed to provide an adventure and thus enhance the Monki experience.” Another important ingredient is intimacy with the consumer. Monki

not only delivers its product, it supplies activities and media that further reinforce the illusion of a shared Monki world. Monthly DJs, Monki TV, Monki Magazine and Monki Girls are some examples of this. “One sign of how we have establi­ shed ourselves is the list of the famous who buy at our stores,” says Ulrika. “Super-hip bloggers and DJs Susie Bubble and Bip Ling from the UK, and Germany’s biggest fashion blogger, Les Mads, love Monki. Drew Barry­ more has been seen in our stores.” The remarkable progress of Monki and Weekday, and its considerable potential, soon caught the notice of Swedish fashion giant H&M. In 2008 H&M acquired 60 % of the Fabric fashion group, owner of Monki and Weekday. The remaining 40 % was acquired by H&M in 2010. The head office remains in Gothen­ burg. Despite the new owner, Monki retains its independence and is free to develop the concept as it sees fit. Another key factor that has characterised Monki from its start-up is its business culture. The management team’s flat, friendly and fearless approach has deliberately remained intact over the years. Even though Ulrika Liss-Daniels does not want to say you will only find such an approach here, it is nonetheless typical of Gothenburg people to want to work together in a small friendly team, focused on the same goal – to keep little Monki alive and well in its own little world of wonders and miracles. Entering a Monki store is like entering an entirely new fantasiy world, where colour is not exactly a scarcity.

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S t o r y: Adam Wladis p h o t o : Theo Rosengren

Mama’s Got A Brand New Bag After working for H&M and Tiger of Sweden, Gothen­burg-based designer Ann-Louise Landelius decided to focus all her energy on her own brand. She made exactly the right move. Her name is now mentioned with great respect in fashion circles way beyond Sweden’s borders. Ann-Louise Landelius’ exclusive leather bags and accessories have received well-deserved exposure in fashion magazines in recent years. You will find her A.L.L. brand on sale in the prestigious 10 Corso Come in Milan, for example. The bags are produced in London using hand-picked leather from carefully selected suppliers in Italy and the UK. There is no question that her gorgeous bags in simple, exquisite geometric forms appeal to a demanding circle of fashion lovers.

Ann-Louise Landelius is based at her combined studio and store in the Linnéstaden district of Gothenburg. “It’s perfect and inexpensive having the store in Gothenburg. I get a lot of inspiration here that I would not find anywhere else. My dream is to be international, and that’s something that’s very easy to be in Gothenburg.” She takes her inspiration from Gothenburg’s docks, bridges and industrial sites where impressions of color, shape and details are collected to inspire and create the signature imprint on the collections. Zips, copper clasps and chains are typical details on her bags. Ann-Louise Landelius also makes bracelets, necklaces and scarves using the finest quality materials such as leather and silk. www.annlouiselandelius.com

Designer Ann-Louise Landelius enjoys international success but prefers to work in her hometown.

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The Original Beanie Man

After 40 years of serving first class java, Tord Wetter is the Godfather of coffee culture in Gothenburg. S t o r y: Ola Tedin p h o t o : Thomas Johansson


Café Guide Mauritz coffee house was inspired by a small café Tord once saw in Rome and the architect’s original plans are still in his safe. “We make it just as the Italians prefer: a small shot of coffee you down quickly, but strangely we are still the only place in town with standing room only.”

Unlike many similar cities, Gothenburg still has a strong coffee house culture, which thrives on the interaction between enthusiastic entrepreneurs and receptive consumers. Here is a selection of 20 Gothenburg cafés, both traditional and contemporary. Enjoy! Piccolino

Fröken Olssons

Lasarettsgatan 10B, Mon–Fri 07.00 –18.00, Sat 08.00 –16.00 A hole in the wall, simple espressos, small cookies, ice cream in the summer and a stone wall to lean against on the street. Fast, friendly and good coffee. Strong Italian influence.

Östra Larmgatan 14 Among the mosaic walls and home-woven cushions you can enjoy a lovely lunch based on fresh ingredients followed by delicious pie. Good coffee + good service = great café.

Bar Centro Kyrkogatan 31 Bar Centro has succeeded with the trick of making a simple menu appear very generous. Sandwiches, cakes and drinks to make your mouth water. The coffee is fast, simple and hot. Very popular spot for creative people.

Da Matteo

Tord Wetter knows coffee. How couldn’t he – being a third generation coffee importer and proprietor of the legendary Mauritz Kaffe coffee house in central Gothenburg? His fine brew has tickled coffee aficionados olfactory nerves for nearly four decades. Today, with quality coffee easily available at almost every street corner from international franchises with readily recognized logos, it's easy to forget that Sweden was once a place where even simple filtered coffee was considered a Sunday morning luxury and espresso was regarded at best with mild curiosity. Being on top of every international list of mean liters of consumption and imported kilos per head, Swedes were not strangers to the Columbian brew. Only that they insisted on the simple boiled or percolated version. But when Tord and his Mauritz Kaffe house started back in 1973, people soon caught up with his lovingly made product, coffee from the highest quality beans roasted in-house. ”Many of our first customers were immigrants and Swedes that had travelled and discovered the continental coffee culture. Some of

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them are still patrons after all these years,” explains Tord. A gentle elder­ly man with a warm smile and a slight stoop, he still spends most of his days at the café with his employees. After four decades he's on first name terms with many patrons and customers. Tord has always relied on preparing his beans in a regular household oven. “The first one, a Husquarna, is still down in the basement. It would probably work if I got a new power lead,” he muses and admits he's lost count of how many ovens he has worn out over the years. When he started back in the early 70s, Mauritz Kaffe had a lot to contend with. Bringing a product to the market where continental style coffee was generally considered something you'd take to avoid an unwanted pregnancy, or remove paint, a strong and aromatic double espresso simply did not readily sell itself to the general public. ”Even my own father didn't believe I would succeed,” remembers Tord. “In a way he was my worst critic, but I proved him wrong from the start.” Had it not been for the undeveloped sense for what was considered

proper coffee back then, Tord Wetter and his trusted Husquarna oven might not have been necessary. But as things stand, he can be regarded as a key figure for today’s Swedish coffee culture. “These days people know their coffee and we're happy to comply. If they want a macchiato or ris­ tretto, we can make it, but we don't have it written on the menu,” he explains. It took 15 years before any competition opened in Gothenburg. Today places that serve proper espresso are abundant. But the com­petition has never bothered Tord Wetter. Mauritz Kaffe is an institution in itself and probably one of the strongest brands in Gothenburg. Instead, Mauritz Kaffe faces a much more lethal threat: the landlord, a large investment company, has decided to triple the rent. News of the brutal increase hit Gothenburg like a bomb and indignant protests rippled through the media. But Tord remains unruffled. “I'm moving. There's no way I'm going to give up. I'm looking for a new place as we speak,” concludes the 73-year-old.

Viktoriapassagen: Södra Larmgatan 14 or Torrefazione: Vallgatan 5 Nearly everything here is homemade. Coffee beans are roasted in the micro-roaster, bread is baked in the bakery, and the cows are milked in the region. They serve a great sourdough sandwich, and you can test the latest coffee brewing method. It’s no surprise that several staff members are Barista Cup winners.

Cigarren Järntorget 6 Is puffing on a fat Cuban cigar inside a café your idea of heaven? Here’s the spot for you. You’ll find a selection of cigarillos and cigars alongside the coffee and cakes.

Junggrens Café Kungsportsavenyn 37 Once the trendiest spot in Gothenburg, and now an iconic venue. Stars, entertainers and wannabees hung out here in the 1950s. You can still enjoy the refreshments they always came here for, a smooth cup of coffee and a prawn sandwich.

Brogyllens Konditori Västra Hamngatan 2 Brogyllen probably has the most impressive café premises in town. Heavy crystal chandeliers and the white staircase suggest a 1930s musical. Great salads, Gothenburg’s best semla buns, and an abundance of cake. Marie Antoinette’s dream world.

Kafé Vanilj Västra Hamngatan 2 One of the most popular cafés in Gothenburg. On the menu: coffee, tea, smoothies, juice, sandwiches, salads, pasta salad, baked pota­ toes, pies, chocolate cookies, muffins, cinnamon buns, gooey chocolate cake and raspberry pie. Do you get it?

Café Kronhuset

Nöller

Postgatan 6 A lovely spot in the oldest quarter of the city, amid cobblestones, a glass-blowing studio and an active smithy. A must-see for tourists.

Haga Nygata 28 Nöller is homely, modern and hip. Buy French chocolate by the gram, enjoy a fresh espresso or warm yourself with some hot lentil soup.

Attibassi by Mahogny Coffee

Café Husaren

Grand Passage between Vallgatan and Kungsgatan If you are a latte art fan, you must go to Mahogny Coffee. Choose your favourite latte, tuck into a choco­late cookie and practice your Italian with Tony behind the counter.

Haga Nygata 28 Husaren is located in the charming Haga quarter, and has been serving superb café fare for many years. Their biggest claim to fame is the giant size of their cinnamon buns.

Condeco Fredsgatan 14 The right choice if you have aller­ gies. Condeco knows all about food, and which ingredients some people must avoid. They also serve fair trade coffee and great cakes.

Magasin 11 Magasinsgatan 11 Here they have combined the best of two worlds – café and shopping. Right in the middle of the shop stands a fully equipped barista making coal black coffee. Don’t miss the tiny novelty items for sale.

Mauritz Kaffe

Café and The Bakery

Fredsgatan 2 Not much has changed at Mauritz since it first opened. Staff wear classic livery, the coffee is roasted on trays in the oven, and well-stored cheese on great bread makes the perfect sandwich. So simple, yet so good.

Viktoriagatan 20 They sell the best bread in town and serve the tastiest cinnamon buns and crispiest biscotti. Pop in for a nice quiet breakfast or to buy something special to take home.

Ahlströms Konditori Korsgatan 2 Time has stood still since this café first opened and the regulars may very well have been here since their first cup of coffee. The pastries are made according to the classic method and the staff may probably never heard of a smoothie. But oh, is this café worth a visit!

Bönor & Bagels Linnégatan 48 What you see is what you get: a café serving good coffee and fresh bagels. Everything is top quality and right in the middle of pedestrianfriendly Linnégatan.

Kaffebaren at Yaki Da Storgatan 47 OK, this isn’t a café and there are no cinnamon buns or refills. But if you fancy a decent espresso or latte (with a generous shot of Baileys or Cointreau) at 3 a.m., this is where to go.

Språkcaféet Esperantoplatsen 9 The concept is simple; you buy your refreshments, take your flag and find a seat. Someone will walk past, notice which country you are from and start up a conversation in your language. (See story below).

Une cup di kawy, bitte! Språkcaféet (The Language Coffee Shop) is a meeting place for the entire world in Gothenburg. You put a flag on your table and soon you’ll be talking to people in your own language. Språkcaféet is located at Espe­ rantoplatsen, exactly the right address for it. It’s a lovely place with an old piano in the corner and the language tables get busy in the evenings. It was 20 years ago that Tonia TellCerexhe got the idea.

“Gothenburg lacked a café where you could meet new people in a relaxed setting. The normal thing is to meet people you already know when you go to a café,” says Tonia. Language theme nights are held from Monday to Thursday and everyone is welcome. This has made the café a meeting place for Swedes and people from all over the world who want to meet new people or just brush up their language skills.

“It’s the mix of people that makes this special. Like when a lady from some affluent suburb meets a guy with dreadlocks from the poorer side of town. These evenings also give people from overseas an opportunity to meet Swedes who speak their language. Or they can start practicing their new Swedish skills,” says Tonia. Conversation is not a requirement, of course. If you just wish to sit and enjoy a glass of wine and a plate of tapas, that’s OK too.

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These quaint and old-fashioned quarters are among the most attractive areas in the city and a favourite among pram pushers, slackers and shoppers alike. The map shows just a small selection of what Haga has to offer. Take a walk on the mild side.

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4. Twist & Tango Swedish clothes chain for women whose motto is “simple yet stylish everyday clothes”, many of them designed by Birgitta Lundgren. Mixes simple Swedish fashion basics with a personal touch.

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5. Karltex Herr & Dam Small local chain of shops specializing in clothes and accessories created by both international brands and local designers.

9. En Deli Haga

6. Curry House

Delicatessen with vegetarian ‘slowfood’ from the Mediterranean.

A goldmine for tea, coffee and spices, offering the widest selection in Gothenburg. They also have a great range of nuts, jams and strong sauces. And if you are longing for the taste of England: Marmite.

Do you need a souvenir of Gothenburg? You will definitely find inspiration in this gift shop, which sells things you won’t find in more traditional stores.

12. Små kära ting

This shop has been here on Haga Nygata for around 70 years. They sell orthopedic wooden clogs and other items made of reindeer and moose leather.

Antiques and ceramics. Everything you wanted to inherit from Grandma but broke before you could get it, can be found here. Plus all the rest.

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11. Café Kringlan Cozy, authentic café in the heart of the Haga quarter. Traditional Swedish coffee and cake. Pastries are Café Kringlan’s speciality. Make sure to try the banana sponge.

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7. Stiernglans Bow ties, braces, cuff links and knickers, but maybe above all, hats. Fashion from the 1920s, 30s, 40s and 50s. A paradise for hat lovers with Stetsons, Borsalinos and Kangols for men and women.

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10. Sol & Vår

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3. Hagabullen The October 4 is official ‘Kanelbulle dag’ (Cinnamon Roll Day) in Sweden. And if you are going to eat a cinnamon roll in Gothenburg, you should do it at Hagabullen. They serve the biggest rolls in town. Be sure to take a friend to help you, or you’ll end up feeding the birds.

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2. Nöller A classic watering hole for when you really must have an espresso. Trendy décor and good views across the street.

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1. Marimekko 60 years on, this Finnish textiles company is still as stylish as ever. Classic materials, bags and accessories with patterns first created in the 1950s.

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SCHOOL OF BUSINESS, ECONOMICS AND LAW AT THE UNIVERSITY OF GOTHENBURG

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Th e ta l l e s t p i e c e of art in Gothenburg is Carl Milles’ 7m-tall

sculpture of Poseidon at Götaplatsen. But recently a challenger has emerged. The Gothenburg Museum of Art now houses a 6m-tall stripper made of Styrofoam and plaster. The piece is called Seconds in Ecstasy and is the work of a young artist Cajsa von Zeipel. Art enthusiasts might recognize the name of the sculpture, which is a refer­ence to the famous St. Theresa in Ecstasy by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, which is also charged with sexual tension. The piece was first exhibited by the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in its Nike hall in Stockholm in 2010. At the Gothenburg Museum of Art, Seconds in Ecstasy is also placed in an interesting context surrounded by classical sculpture.


MVseVms of GothenbVrg The museum has around 10 permanent exhi­ bitions telling the history and pre-history of Gothenburg, covering over 12,000 years. In the museum that recently celebrated its 150th anniversary you can see the “Äskekärrsskeppet”, the only ship from the Viking era on display in Sweden, and it’s also the only Viking ship in the world with unique runic inscriptions. Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 10.00 –17.00 Wednesdays: 10.00 – 20.00 Monday: closed Visiting address: Norra Hamng. 12

 Universeum Science  Discovery Center  Universeum 8,000 square meters of adventure at Scandi­ navia’s largest science center. In the museum you’ll find such attractions as The Ocean Zone with sharks, rays and other fish, The Rainforest Zone with monkeys and birds in a humid setting, and much more. Universeum is a universe of fun and learning for the whole family. Opening hours: Open every day 10.00 –18.00 Visiting address: Södra Vägen 50 (by Korsvägen, next to The Museum of World Culture)

 Maritime Museum & Aquarium  Sjöfartsmuseet Classical museum in the city’s old dock area that recently had a face lift. You can explore life under, above and by the water. Find out more about the relationship between man and the sea. Collections comprise artifacts with links mainly to merchant shipping throughout history up to the present day. Opening hours: Tuesday–Sunday: 10.00 –17.00 Wednesday: 10.00 – 20.00 Visiting address: Karl Johansg. 1– 3

 The Gothenburg Museum of Art  Göteborgs konstmuseum The museum has a Nordic emphasis but the collections also contain older Dutch and French art, including important works by Rembrandt, van Gogh, Monet and Picasso, to name a few. It has one of the leading collections of Nordic art from the turn of the previous century. In front of the museum, on Götaplatsen, stands the statue of Poseidon, one of Gothenburg’s most prominent landmarks.

Opening hours: Monday closed, Tuesday: 11.00 –18.00, Wednesday: 11.00 – 21.00 Thursday: 11.00 –18.00, Friday – Sunday and holidays: 11.00 –17.00 Visiting address: Götaplatsen

Fashion fuelled by subcultures

 The Swedish Museum  of Natural History  Naturhistoriska museet A great place for everyone who is interested in nature and its diversity. Check out exhibitions on the history of life and earth, different species on land, in water, and in the air. The Museum is situated in the middle of the world’s first national city park, Slottsskogen. Don’t miss the stuffed blue whale that was stranded near Gothenburg in 1865. Opening hours: Monday-Friday: 10.00 –18.00 Saturday-Sunday: 11.00 –18.00

 The Röhsska Museum  Röhsska museet The Röhsska Museum of Fashion, Design and Decorative Arts, has short-term exhibitions for people who are interested in shape, colour and function. It also houses a selection of Chinese arts and craft dating from 2000 BC to the 20th century and a great collection of 18th century furniture and tableware and design from 1851 up to today. Opening hours: Tuesday 12.00 – 20.00, Wednesday – Friday 12.00 –17.00, Saturday – Sunday 11.00 –17.00. Visiting address: Vasagatan 37 – 39

 The Museum of World Culture  Världskulturmuseet The Museum of World Culture shows temporary exhibitions focusing on global contemporary issues. The museum is the city of Gothenburg´s most visited museum, and has played host to several high-ranking international exhibitions. It has the status of National Museum of World Culture in Sweden. Free admission. Opening hours: Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday: 12.00 –17.00, Wednesday and Thursday: 12.00 – 21.00, Monday: closed Visiting address: Södra vägen 54 (by Korsvägen, next to Universeum)

Gothenburg is really not all that Swedish. In many ways the city has more in common with London. The strong position of the city’s subculture makes it a creative engine for the city’s development. Photo: Röhsska Museet

 Gothenburg City Museum   Göteborgs Stadsmuseum

 People have often remarked on the special fashion phenomenon you find in Gothenburg. But it’s really just another way Gothenburg is un-Swedish, maintains Ted Hesselbom, Director of the Röhsska museum, who views fashion as an important part of the museum’s activities. “In Gothenburg there is something unglamorous, subcultural and anti-authoritarian about our fashion designers. It gives the city a unique strength,” says Ted Hesselbom. Röhsska Museum is Sweden’s only museum of fashion, design and crafts. In recent years, visitors have welcomed fashion exhibitions among old and new furniture, silverware and decorative arts. And Gothenburg’s museum visitors admire the fiery passion of the museum’s manager. Ted Hessel­ bom became manager of the Röhsska Museum five years ago and has made it his mission to

include fashion as an integral part of the museum’s profile. He clearly views fashion as a subject that will increase the museum’s relevance in modern times. The location of the museum is also important. “The clothing industry here is performing very well today, and there is history in these quarters. But a dynamic subculture plays a vital role here. It is the essence of the strong development that the industry has enjoyed recently in this part of Sweden.” An ambition to create something of your own, without anxiously looking at others, you could say. “It’s in the subcultures that the creative talents grow up. It’s a great asset that explains the industry’s success. We can build on top of it. Take Nudie Jeans for example, they have maintained their individuality even though they have become so big.” For Ted Hesselbom it is vital to safeguard this special feature of the city – and not to make comparisons with the capital, Stockholm. “Gothenburg is not really all that Swedish. In many ways the city has more in common with London,” he says, citing the subculture and the mercantile tradition of private financiers as two examples of how London and Gothenburg are similar. He thinks that the way the underground culture sets trends is also a key to gaining access to overseas markets. “It is counterproductive to focus on norms, mediocrity and bad copies of other cities. The underground culture is vital, that’s where the really interesting designers emerge from. The links between major clothing chains and fashion subculture have been clearly established in Gothenburg.”

In order to do justice to designer Vivienne Westwoods magnificent ”Wedding dress” the model had to walk on stilts. The price tag (not visible in this picture) read 537 000 Swedish crowns when it was purchased by Röhsska Museum.

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Gothenburg is the crime capital of Sweden – at least if you count the number of successful crime writers per capita. Led by international star Henning Mankell, the Gothenburg-based writers are the driving force behind the new wave of internationally acknowledged crime literature. Meet the top five members.

Photo: Lina Ikse

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Back to the mean streets of Gothenburg, where police inspector Erik Winter has been busy solving murders since 1995 when author Åke Edwardson (born 1953) took a break from his lecturing job at The Gothenburg School of Journalism to release his first crime novel to rave reviews. The Erik Åke Edwardson Winter books were soon turned into a successful television series set in Gothenburg. Edwardsson is the best choice for readers who want a large chunk of the city’s atmosphere along with blood and suspense. Inspector Winter lives in a large apartment on Vasaplatsen in the center of town, within cycling distance of his office at the Police Headquarters on Skånegatan. A three-time winner of the Swedish Crime Writers’ Academy Award for best crime novel, Åke Edwardson currently has five Erik Winter mysteries available in English: Death Angels, The Shadow

Woman, Sun And Shadow, Frozen Tracks and Never End. Born in Gothenburg and still living here, Johan Theorin (born 1963) has set most of his mysteries on the island of Öland off the southeastern coast of Johan Theorin Sweden in the Baltic Sea where he spent most of his summer holidays. Mr Theorin got a flying start when his first novel Echoes from the Dead was voted Best First Mystery Novel of 2007 by the Swedish Crime Writers’ Academy. It has since been sold to 20 countries. In 2009 he was awarded The New Blood Dagger by the British Crime Writers’ Association, thereby joining the likes of luminaries such as Minette Walters, Denise Mina and Patricia Cornwell. Available by Johan Theorin in English are: Echoes from the Dead, The Darkest Room and The Quarry. The books loosely form three quarters of a quadrilogy, one

Photo: Peter Knutson

A popular summer resort, Fjäll­ backa’s claim to fame used to be as the home of actress Ingrid Bergman. The success of Camilla Läckberg has put the village in a completely new light. Läckberg (born 1974) grew up in Fjällbacka and all Camilla Läckberg her books are set there, in a harsh but beautiful landscape of huge granite cliffs and the ever-present North Sea. Läckberg has a degree in economics from the University of Gothenburg and worked in finance in Stockholm before turning to professional writing in the early 2000s. Her national breakthrough came with Ice Princess in 2003, which introduced fellow police officers and lovers Erica Falck and Patrik Hedström who solve Fjällbacka’s crimes in a number of books. Available in English are: The Ice Princess, The Preacher, The Stone Cutter, The Gallows Bird, The Hidden Child and The Angel Maker.

Photo: Nicke Johansson

Mankell expresses his political views in nearly everything he writes about and the Wallander series is characterised by an undercurrent of disillusioned left-wing social criticism. Most of the murders and crimes that Wallander is drawn into have strong political and social association. The books are played out in and around Ystad in southern Sweden, while the author himself divides his time between Gothenburg and Mozambique where he’s the artistic director of Teatro Avenida in Maputo. Mankell is married to Eva Bergman, daughter of Ingmar Bergman. Together they share a house by the sea just south of Gothenburg. The following Wallander novels have been translated into English: Faceless Killers, The Dogs of Riga, The White Lioness, The Man Who Smiled, Sidetracked, The Fifth Woman, One Step Behind, Firewall and The Troubled Man. 150 kilometers or so north, up the coast from Gothenburg, lies the little fishing village of Fjällbacka, with a population of less than 1,000.

Photo: Anders Deros

The image of a small city can be seen radically different depending on the view of the onlooker. For the avid reader of crime novels, Gothen­ burg may very well come across as a cruel, violent city full of hideous crime along the mean streets and dark corners. Like a small-scale version of Andrew Vachss’ Manhattan or Denise Mina’s Glasgow. Over the past century, five crime writers from Gothenburg have been among the top selling names on web shops such as Amazon and in bookstores around the world. The most successful and well-known is of course Henning Mankell (born 1948). His long series of novels about police Henning Mankell inspector Kurt Wallander have gained a large following on a global scale. The Wallander series has been filmed a number of times over the years, most recently by the BBC with Kenneth Branagh as the tormented inspector Wallander.

Photo: Bingo Rimér

Gothenburg Noir for each season on Öland, where the weather and the mood of the landscape affect the people in the stories. Together with Åke Edwardssons’ detective Erik Winter, female inspector Irene Huss is the most internationally well-known member of the Gothenburg police force. The main character in the novels by Helene Tursten (born 1954) is Ms Huss, a 40-something Helene Tursten wife, mother, detective inspector and judo expert. Some critics describe her as a metaphor for life in modern day Sweden. Helene Tursten lives in a remote town in the woods of Värmland, but sets all her novels in Gothenburg. Available in English are: Detective Inspector Huss, Torso, Glass Devil and Night Rounds. ..... All the books mentioned above are available at www.amazon.com

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S t o r y & p h o t o : Linda Genborg

Where pretty meets ugly In one of Gothenburg’s most interes­ ting historical areas the new, innovative and creative Gothenburg is taking form among a mix of industrial remnants, a Michelin-rated restaurant, graffiti walls and contemporary art. Klippan and Röda Sten, located on the river banks of west Gothenburg, was once the setting of bloody battles between Sweden and Denmark at the old Älvsborg Fortress. Now a popular area for picnics and walks, for hundreds of years this was the home of Eastindiamans, industry workers and smugglers. Late into the 1500s the river mouth outside Klippan and Röda Sten was Sweden’s only port to the west. Closed in by Norway to the north and Denmark to the south, it was an extremely im­ portant and strategic place. Today only a few small ruins of the fortress remain. The smoke from the canons and guns are long gone. Instead of foreign battle ships advancing down the river,

it is the huge Stena Line ferries that cruise by on their way to Denmark and Germany. However, there is one remnant of the drama and tragedies that took place. The area is called Röda Sten, the Red Stone, after a red-painted boulder that lies among small rocks next to the water. According to folk legend it was coloured red by the blood of a Swedish officer who was killed by the Danes. Though no longer on the front line, Klippan and Röda Sten remained an

important port. It was the only deep water harbour in Gothenburg and in the 1700s it was used by the East India Shipping Company. From here the East Indiamans set off on their journeys to the Far East. During the nights, smugglers often embarked on the river bank to sell their goods, and it is said the police knew better than to venture out to Röda Sten’s many pubs. At the so called “Smugglers’ Cottage” many a scheme were planned.


The Smugglers’ Cottage is long gone, but several historical buildings remain in the area, giving it a distinct feel of times past. The fortress-like Carneige Porter Brewery and Sugar Mill, with their surrounding workers’ quarters take you back to when this was a centre of Swedish industry. Today Klippan and Röda sten is a diverse mix of old and new, creative, scruffy and classy. It’s a place full of contrasts. At one end we have the attractive apartments and offices in the restored workers’ quarters, the Michelin-rated seafood restaurant Sjömagasinet and the weddings in the pretty stone brick St. Birgitta Chapel. At the other end is the artist collective hidden behind the thick brick walls of the old sugar mill Sockerbruket, and the graffiti walls, night clubs and art exhibitions

at the Röda Sten Art Centre. Above it all towers Gothenburg’s landmark the suspension bridge Älvsborgsbron. The Röda Sten Art Centre is an international arena for contemporary art. Several thought-provoking exhibitions with Swedish and international artists are held here every year. The exhibitions are the core of the art centre, but there is also an aim to inspire and reach beyond the four walls of the building. ”This is a very exciting area and more and more people come here. It has great potential, and the key is to not change it too much. People are inspired by being here, because it is a bit scruffy”, says Mia Christersdotter Norman, Director of Röda Sten Art Centre. The artist collective inside Socker­ bruket was founded by local artists

”It has great potential, and the key is to not change it too much. People are inspired by being here, because it is a bit scruffy...”

in 1974. It has around 400 members, and many come on a daily basis to use the different studios and workshops. Bronze statues, glass art, graphic prints, ceramics and textiles are just some of the many pieces of art created inside this majestic building. ”It’s extremely beneficial. You get workmates, inspiration, and meet other types of artists. It’s such an asset”, says local artist Mia Branzell, who has been a member of the collective for over 20 years. Twice a year, during the Gothenburg night of Culture and the Majorna art tour, the artists inside Sockerbruket open the doors to the public with per­ formances and exhibitions. Klippan and Röda Sten are alive with activity all year round. Pretty meets ugly, industry meets art and old meets new. It is one of the places in Gothenburg where it is most clear how the industry city and the creative city can meet and blend into something new.

The Röda Sten Art Centre is an international arena for contemporary art complete with restaurant, café and a booming club scene.

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Kilsgatan 12-14 göteborg. | telefon 031-61 98 30 | www.holmensherr.se


S t o r y: Anders Westgårdh

Clarion Hotel Post has the world’s most advanced hotel-entertainment system, INVIT by Gothenburg-based People Of Lava. Based on Android, the cloud-based system allows every guest to enjoy a large number of services and apps with everything from high definition movies to a is a virtual postcard application. And that’s only the beginning.

Imagine…if you could listen to your home town-radio in your hotel room. Or watch your favourite TV-shows or news from home, exactly when you want to. Imagine if you could access Spotify and have all your favourite music filling the room. And imagine if the TV in the hotel-room was offering endless possibilities with apps and services, customizable to both the location and even to you as a guest? Well, you can stop imagining. Thanks to the world’s most advanced hotel-entertainment system, this is all reality at Clarion Hotel Post.

The TV revolution   begins here When Clarion Hotel Post decided to aim for the finest hotel television system available, they didn’t have to look further than a few miles north of Gothenburg. Because that is where People of Lava is design­ ing the future of TV – and subsequently the end of hotel television as we know it. The first company to develop an Android-based TV back in early 2010, with rave reviews from all over the world, the creative folks at People of Lava started to look for a suitable segment where the smart technology could really make a difference. Lava has al­ ways avoided the mass-market and instead focused on the niches, one of them being the hospitalitysector and hotels. “We realized that a hotel is an ideal environment for all the

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possibilities a smart platform can offer”, says Christian Svantesson, one of the founders of People of Lava. “Add to this the low level of development during the past 20 years on traditional hotel TVsystems – and the road ahead was clear to us”. In fact Lava has delivered pro­ducts to hotels for almost a decade, but primarily hardware in the shape of exclusive LCD- and plasma-TVs and the company’s ingenious motorized TV-accessories (imagine a TV that moves!). However, with their new hotelsystem INVIT the company is set to challenge the way hotels and their guests can benefit from modern technology. The INVIT system is unique by offering customized experiences through a wide variety of applica-

tions (apps), custom-made for the specific hotel, for the specific city, and even possible to customize for the individual guest. The Clarion Hotel Post features on-demand movies where newly released movies are streamed in high definition to each individual room. Being a smart system, lot’s of other familiar applications known from the smart-environment (Android-phones, iPhones etc) such as Facebook, YouTube, Twitter, weather service etc are available, together with an interactive hotel-guide and an interactive messaging service. Among the main features curren­tl­y available at Clarion Hotel Post is an open web-browser with the capacity of handling Adobe Flash, thus allowing the guest to enjoy on-demand Play-TV and other

video material on the Internet – fast, convenient and free. Watching the news from your own country or not missing your favourite dramaseries while travelling are features expected to become popular. To help you keep in touch with family and friends there is a virtual postcard application, while the global radio service lets you tune in to your home town radio station for that home away from home feeling. ”The system we have installed at the Clarion Hotel Post has a large number of services already”, says Mathias Adolfsson, Chief Technical Officer at People of Lava, ”but the really cool thing is that it can be expanded almost limitlessly when the hotel decides to add services.” Clarion Hotel Post is Lava’s largest customer so far with 500+ units, and general manager Daniel

Stenbäck has great expectations regarding the INVIT-system. “I am very curious about the possibilities to expand the system in close relationship with our customers. We are starting out with an attractive range of basic interactive services and films, and hope to develop various services over time, to fit the need of the individual guest”. The new Lava INVIT-system paves the way for a paradigm-shift in hotel-TV, with major benefits for both the hotel and its guests. For the hotel, the benefits are huge. Thanks to new technology and a fresh approach to hotel-services, not only will the cost-savings in mere numbers be significant for the hotel, but also with the whole system being “cloud-based”, less hardware will be involved, and thus the

environment and Mother Nature is one of the greatest benefiters. The green impact is an important factor for all modern hotels – and the INVIT-system will help the hotel reducing its carbon footprint. “Most hotels around the world are stuck with old and expensive solutions that really offer neither the hotel nor its guests anything other than a hefty bill,” says Lars Svantesson, managing director at People of Lava. “Since we base our solutions around the world’s fastest growing operating system, Android, we will keep evolving and keep offering more services, more games, applications and interactive solutions”.

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S ELECTE D A N D W RITTEN BY: Malin Kiriazidou and Caroline Hanner

Cream of the crop Shopping is usually a crucial part of the experience when visiting a city. And what can be better then bringing home stuff that reflects the place you’ve just been to? Here is the discerning connoisseur’s guide to some of the finest things Gothenburg has to offer.

Steinbrenner och Nyberg, Östra Larmgatan 6

Photo: Annika Broman

Steinbrenner och Nyberg Steinbrenner & Nyberg is best known for delicious handmade Gothenburg pralines and chocolates to meet every taste. Don’t miss their soup and cake buffet served at lunch.

Artilleriet Artilleriet is an interior decoration shop with a fantastic atmosphere that you won’t want to leave. Vintage, classic and contemporary products from well-known and up-and-coming brands. Don’t miss it! Magasinsgatan 19

E m m a o c h Ma l e n a Emma Landström and Malena Ostwald run a store that is beautifully designed like a 1920s apartment. They have the Swedish west coast in their blood, and their clothes and accessories are inspired by nature and the marine lifestyle.

A.L.L. Inspired by Gothenburg’s piers and shipyards, Ann-Louise Landelius designs timeless bags in exclusive leather with solid zips and chains. Her A.L.L. brand has quickly become a firm favorite among the trendy women of Gothenburg, while if you are in Hong Kong you can find her bags at 10 Corso Como. Mouche – Västra Hamngatan 24 – 26

Emma och Malena – Vallgatan 4 (emmamalena.com)

Ag o n i s t A sculpture by the renowned glass artist Åsa Jungnelius, or a bottle of perfume? Agonist is both. The bottles can be seen at galleries and traveling exhibitions throughout the world and if you want one, try Harrods in London or Printemps in Paris. NK + Röhsska

Dr Denim How do you achieve a simple look that still manages to stand out? Dr Denim is the answer! These Gothenburg-based frontrunnerss for jeans and chinos in different colors soon made this brand a blogger’s favorite. Fiorucci – Vallgatan 36 Velour Gothenburg is the heart and soul of Velour. They get their inspiration from the harbor itself to the young hipsters thronging Magasinsgatan. Their hallmark style is something they call Feelgood Preppy, a clever mix of the casual and formal. Just the look if you want to feel you fit in in Gothenburg. Velour – Magasinsgatan 19 (www.velour.se)

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P. A . P. From a studio on Övre Husargatan in the center of the city, P.A.P. designs and produces handmade leather items such as iPod covers, wallets and laptop bags. Despite the excellent quality and genuine handcraft, prices are very reasonable. Practically a bargain. SOLO – Kungsgatan 58

Mas k a Maska is the work of two highly quality-conscious Gothenburg women who love knitwear. With a strong decorative flair and fantastic materials they create wardrobe classics that will last for years. Clothes to love for the rest of your life. Emma och Malena – Vallgatan 4

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H e l e n a A n d e r ss o n With her unique artistic expression, Helena Andersson, who lives and works in Gothenburg, creates sculptures and plates in ceramic that are sold in Sweden and abroad. In addition to her own store you will find her work in galleries around the world.

P r i c k i g k at t Protection from the rain is a must in a city like Gothenburg. So why not buy something that will stand out amid the otherwise black sea of umbrellas. At Prickig katt, everything stands out, whether it’s furniture, hats, jewelry, posters or vintage dresses. Simple things that make you happy.

Krypton – Vallgatan 17

Prickig Katt, Magasinsgatan 19

Dag m a r Three Gothenburg sisters have made Dagmar one of Sweden’s most interesting fashion brands. For their spring 2012 collection they have found inspiration in Morocco. This exotic skirt can just as easily be used as a dress. Relaxed, comfortable and fabulous. Awesome Rags – Kungsgatan 27

M P i c au t M Picaut is an exclusive skincare range by Mette Picaut, who was born in Gothenburg and who combines the best from different worlds. The products are eco-friendly and close to nature while also making a genuine effect. Once you start using M Picaut you’ll never stop. Krypton – Vallgatan 17

KG D e s i g n KG Design is the brainchild of two Gothenburg residents, Jennie Josefsson and Fredrik Kågefors, who combine innovative form and function with top quality. “Triplets” candlesticks are a classic design with a modern touch that will make their contemporary mark in your home.

A s k s ko r Ask Skor has been selling shoes in Gothenburg since the 1970s, making the store a major institution in the Swedish shoe industry. People make their way here from all over the country to buy shoes that offer top quality and superior comfort. Ask Skor – Vallgatan 27

Designtorget – Vallgatan 14 (www.designtorget.se)

Whyred Roland Hjort started Whyred in 1999. A much-loved Gothenburger, this designer combines pop culture and urban influences with high culture, which has made Whyred one of Sweden’s most interesting fashion brands. Whyred Store – Södra Larmgatan 13

I Dig Denim I Dig Denim is the result of Gothenburg-based Hanna Clavegård’s love of denim. This is a new and exciting children’s brand that is timeless, practical and just made for wear and tear. Minishop – Vallgatan 21

Os c a r J ac o b s o n Since opening for business in 1903, the Oscar Jacobson brand has built up a strong reputation for men’s suits. By staying true to the tailoring traditions of west Sweden, Oscar Jacobson always delivers impeccable quality and a sense of style, which is neither impersonal or showy.

Th é h u s e t This historic little shop, which opened in 1924, is always crammed, but the fabulous staff make your visit enjoyable nonetheless. One tip is to buy one of their fine boxes covered with well-known Gothenburg scenes and fill it with one of their own blends of tea. Théhuset, Kungstorget 10

NK – Östra Hamngatan 42

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Photo: Klara Sandsjö

Vintage shopping Ragtime + Miss Ragtime Magasinsgatan 15 Mon – Fri 11.00  –18.00, Sat 11.00  –16.00 The Ragtime shops have a massive cult following in Gothenburg. All the clothes here have been extremely well cared-for by their former owners – everything is of the highest quality. Women will find gorgeous coats, exclusive dresses and classic pumps. Men can expand their jacket collection, buy beautifully worn jeans and pick up a unique pair of shoes for a bargain. Even though prices are amazingly low compared with the original price tag, this is still one of the most expensive second-hand stores in Gothenburg.

of oddball items here that only the bravest will dare to wear. If you’re not quite this brave it’s still a great experience to have a look, and maybe have a little giggle at what’s going on.

Emmaus Björkå Linnégatan 9, Mon – Fri 10.00 –19.00, Sat 10.00–17.00, Sun 12.00–16.00 An old classic, still going strong. You’ll find carefully selected pieces and accessories, although get here early before the cream gets taken. A very popular store.

Myrorna

Magasinsgatan 22 A popular British store on a popular Gothenburg street. The store has been furnished as a genuine 1970s home and features an alternative range of clothes and re-sewn vintage gear. You can hunt through the bargain box, flick through obscure picture books or invest in a psychedelic lampshade.

Järntorgsgatan 10, Mon – Fri 10.00 –19.00, Sat 11.00 –17.00 This has always been a popular destination. They have collaborations with stores such as Åhléns and Lindex and local art students. You’ll find glass and ceramic items, clothes and furniture on floors one, two and three. The finest antiques are on the fourth floor. This is the ultimate second-hand experience, as they say themselves.

Beyond Retro

Stadsmissionens Second Hand

Arkaden- c/o Topshop Södra Hamngatan 37– 41 Mon-Sat 10.00 –19.00 Sun 12.00 –16.00 This was originally a British store and the items are so colourful there should be a warning for epilepsy. How about a 1970s bridal dress, MC Hammer trousers or a genuine Madonna outfit? There are plenty

Vallgatan 1, Mon – Fri 10.00–18.00, Sat 11.00 –16.00 Amerikagatan 1, The mission does good in many ways: It helps Gothenburg’s home­ less while selling great clothes, antiques and books at decent prices. The store at Stigbergstorget is a Mecca for fur lovers, while the recently opened store on Vallgatan

Pop Boutique

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Even though shopping for vintage clothes has been a favourite pastime in Gothenburg for ages, recent years have seen surging demand for old gear. New stores are opening all the time. Alice Westgårdh guides you to the best bargains in town. is a bit trendier. You might have to squeeze around the hangers, but there’s a great chance you’ll find something cool at a good price.

Saronkyrkans Second Hand Brunnsgatan 5, above Hemköp Thursdays (not furniture) 16.00 –19.00, Sat 10.00 –13.00 This second-hand store was relatively unknown until just a few years ago. Now it’s mayhem as soon as they open the doors. There are bargains everywhere, and there is a fabulous range of clothes and furniture. But note the limited opening times: You need to work fast!

Second Hand Börsen Första Långgatan 30, varied opening hours Another golden oldie that has never lowered its standards over the years. Well preserved clothes at outrageously reasonable prices. El Dorado if you are looking for Fjällräven, Puma and Resteröds.

Stiernglans Haga Nygata 20 This store specializes in hats: not strange ones, but handsome, classic hats from the 1930s to 1960s. There are also carefully selected clothes.

Kommersen Loppmarknad Första Långgatan 27, Sat – Sun 10.00 –15.00 If you like zigzagging between long rows of tables and then haggling down the price of a coffee cup

from 10 kronor to 5 kronor, this is the place for you. This is probably the biggest flea market in Gothen­ burg. Bring good supplies of water and patience to increase your chances of hunting down that great bargain

Stans Minsta Loppis Haga Nygata 6, Open: 11.00 –15.00. Saturdays April – June, Mondays – Fridays June – August, Saturdays September – October. Saturdays and Sundays during the Christmas market. This is Gothenburg’s smallest flea market, concentrated on a small wagon in the middle of the street. Great to look at. You might find a necklace or a cute little ornament.

Reningsborg Reningsverksgatan 1, Västra Frölunda, Wed 16.00 –19.00, Sat 10.00 –13.00 A giant on the Gothenburg secondhand scene. You can find all the ceramic goods you will ever need for your kitchen at great prices, or a decent sofa for next to nothing. Also clothing and cloth making material.

Pingskyrkans Biståndscenter Södra Ågatan 10, Mölndal Not all of Gothenburg’s trendy elite have found their way here yet. Move carefully among the pensioners to find a fabulous winter coat, blouse or why not an entire wardrobe for less than 500 kronor? Furniture and excellent kitchen wear down in the basement.

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s t o r y: Malin Kiriazidou

Old school all the way

How far back is retro? While many settle for the 1960’s or 70’s, fashion designer Marcus Brodendal goes all the way back to the gold rush era in late 19th century America for inspiration for his new collection of funky workwear.

Many of us have long since tired of the great speed at which modern trends rush past us. A clear sign of this is our fascination with retro and the lifestyles of our forefathers. Designer Marcus Brodendal is the founder of Gothen­ burg’s own Gooseberry Lay & Co. Harking back to the masculine working class culture of late 19th century America, Marcus designs robust workwear, where everything from the organic materials to the practical shirt cuttings keeps faith with the original. What was special about 19th century America? “I have had a romantic view of the Wild West ever since I was a kid, and I’ve never grown out of it. Crossing the Atlantic to discover a completely new world of cowboys and Indians must have been fantastic. I like the idea of a country being created by hardworking people. Dockworkers in San Francisco, railroaders on the Union Pacific railroad, the construction workers who built the first skyscrapers in New York.

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Working in his studio, designer Marcus Brodendahl is no stranger to the sewing machines of yore.

I also love the music and aesthetics of that period.” What came first, the music or the style? “The music was most important. I started with punk and gradually worked back in time till I ended up at bluegrass. It all began as a joke. A friend and I bought some old country albums that we laughed at and made parodies of. Then at a party once we started singing them from the heart. We looked at each other and thought, wow, this is really good. For real. So we started a proper band and played together for seven years. Now I play a country duet with a female friend.” Ok, so the music came first. How did you get into clothes? “My father has been in the industry all my life through the Thomas Shirt Factory, which is the family business. But everything really fell into place when I went to Japan. Their know-how and attention to detail are unbeatable. No-one even in the US knows more about American aesthetics than the Japanese.”

Tell us about the collection? “I’m a shirtmaker, first and foremost, so the focus is on gear above the waist. Plenty of other people are good at jeans. The clothes have the same functionality that working people needed in the old days. Strong material, triple seams, double, even quadruple, layers in some places, practical pockets and buttons in natural materials. All the materials are ecological, which is another contemporary feature.” Finally, what does Gooseberry Lay mean? “It’s an old slang expression referring to how petty thieves would hide behind the gooseberry bushes and wait until they could steal washing off the clothesline, which they would then try to sell.”

..... In Gothenburg, Gooseberry Lay & Co is available in Grandpa, Blue Jeans Company and Solo stores.

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S t o r y: Johan Lindgren p h o t o : Martin Brittberg

For the love of Håkan The saying that a prophet is not recognized in his own hometown may be true else­where, but not in Gothenburg. On the contrary. International mega artists like Bruce Springsteen or U2 may still draw big crowds here, but it’s almost impossible to beat Håkan Hellström on his home turf. Last summer 20,000 people gathered in a decrepit old sports arena to witness a concert. The artist was Håkan Hellström. In Gothenburg, we are spoiled with great international artists visiting the city, and their shows are sold out every time. So why should we care about an ordinary guy from town who sings in Swedish and sometimes dresses in a sailor suit? There are probably as many answers as there are people who buy his records. Håkan is our most be­ loved local artist, with a devoted fan base ranging from small kids to grey-haired grandmas, but a typical fan is a young woman in her twenties, screaming her mascara off in the first row, just like in the Beatles’ heyday. Håkan Hellström is not just a local love affair. For the last ten years all of Sweden (and large parts of Norway, Denmark and Finland) have almost loved this special pop singer to death. If you are a visitor in Gothenburg this may be crucial information. If you get to discuss music with the natives, the chances are they will mention Håkan Hellström, or will play a song by him. Unless you want trouble, you should listen, nod and say that it sounds really good even though you don’t understand a single word. Because no one disses Håkan in this town.

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Ram di Dam

Gothrock... m u s i c e d i t o r : Johan Lindgren

The sounds of the city are essential to get the full picture of Gothenburg. This carefully selected playlist gives you the story of popular music from these shores in the last half century. And it’s all available on Spotify, Swedens greatest invention since the monkey wrench. Use the QR code for swift access.

Sonya Hedenbratt Sonya Hedenbratt (1931-2001) was Gothenburg’s uncrowned queen of jazz. She won a local song contest aged 17 and was nicknamed Gothenburg’s Doris Day. People say she was even better than that.

Local people realised three years ago that Ram Di Dam is the best band from Gothenburg since The Soundtrack of Our Lives. Now the rest of Sweden is finding this out for themselves. And Europe too, thanks partly to the FIFA 11 video game, which includes a song called Flashbacks by Ram di Dam.

Tages They had both the looks and the hooks. In the veritable deluge of Swedish pop groups in the mid-sixties, Tages distinguished themselves by writing their own high quality pop material. Tages peaked in the summer of love 1967, with the smash hit Every Raindrop Means a Lot from their psychedelic album, Studio, considered to be the best Swedish pop album of the era.

Broder Daniel Swedish indie pop was at its zenith at the end of the 1990s. Today, Broder Daniel are synonymous with that era. A lot of Swedish pop music that dominated the charts in the early 2000s was either by former members of the band, such as Håkan Hellström or The Plan, or had been inspired by them.

In Flames Gothenburg has a thriving metal scene, and In Flames are one of the city’s biggest and most successful bands. They are well-known for having developed a melodic death metal genre, and the Gothenburg Sound is well known throughout the metal world.

Sonya Hedenbratt – Cry me a river Lasse Dahlquist – Dans på Brännö brygga Öbarna – Inbjudan till Bohuslän Tages – Every Raindrop Means A Lot Doris – Did You Give The World Some Love Today, Baby? Nationalteatern – Kolla kolla Broder Daniel – I’ll Be Gone Nynningen – För full hals Attentat – Tatuerade Tårar The Leather Nun – Someone Special Like You Union Carbide Productions – Cartoon Animal Whipped Cream – Observatory Crest Alf Robertson – Jag Lämna Mitt Hjärta... In Flames – Cloud Connected Stonefunkers – Lucky People Center LOK – Lok står när de andra faller

The Soundtrack Of Our Lives – Sister Surround Hammerfall – Hearts On Fire Ace of Base – All That She Wants Håkan Hellström – Ramlar The Plan – Let´s Leave Silverbullit – Magnetic City Bad Cash Quartet – Midnight Prayer The Knife – Heartbeats Mustasch – Double Nature Hardcore Superstar – We Don’t Celebrate Sundays The Tough Alliance – First Class Riot Jose Gonzalez – Crosses Midaircondo – Serenade Ram Di Dam – Leave a Mark Kapten Röd – 1.000.000 Nollor Hofmästarn & Roffe Ruff – Majorna

José Gonzalez

Ace of Base

In 2005 Gonzalez accompanied 250 000 bouncing balls in a Sony commercial. The song was called Heartbeats. It was a cover version of a tune by The Knife, who are also from Gothenburg. José Gonzalez has since been featured on TV series such as OC and One Tree Hill as well as the video game, Red Dead Redemption. He also performs in venues all over the world.

Sweden’s biggest musical export after ABBA and Roxette are from Gothenburg and have sold over 60 million albums. Their breakthrough hit, The Sign, was number one on the American Billboard chart for six weeks. Mega stars such as Katy Perry and Lady Gaga admit to being inspired by this Gothenburg band.

Vinyl Guide Trade in used vinyl records has always been strong in Gothenburg, and now that the CD has one foot in the grave, the interest in vinyl music is increasing radically. Here is The Magnificent Seven of the city’s secondhand vinyl shops.

Älvsborgsgatan 35 Wide range of old and rare vinyl. They also sell books and always have freshly brewed coffee.

Andra Långgatans Skivhandel

Vinylium

Andra Långgatan 33 In the heart of Gothenburg’s bohemic quarters, you’ll find the

Styrmansgatan 26 A little shop located in cozy Majorna. If you’re looking for fresh-

city’s largest selection of used LPs. In addition to vinyl, CDs, DVDs and VHS they sell record players and gramophones (and even needles!).

Skivhallen Majorna

pressed vinyl by the latest artists, this is the right place.

Dirty Records Andra Långgatan 4a A combined record store and espresso bar in one of the city’s most unique streets, Dirty has been around for decades and is one of the natural meeting points for record buffs of all ages. Sometimes live performances.

Bengans Stigbergstorget 1 Gothenburg’s number one record store. While Bengans sells more CDs than vinyl, the store is an

institution that has everything. A must for fans of well-stocked record stores.

Pennies From Heaven Södra Vägen 22 If vinyl is not vintage enough, this specialist has a 78 rpm collection containing 70,000 titles. Forget rock and pop, this is mostly the place for jazz and classical music.

Mynt & Musik Friggagatan 13 C If you browse in this rather messy shop there’s a chance you will find a real gem. Cheap records and also DVDs.

GOTHENBURG 2012

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Biljet ter : metaltown.se · eventim.se · eventims callcenter 07 71 651 000

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great artists in a great hall

Turning Gothenburgese

Classical, jazz, pop and world music concerts in the Gothenburg Concert Hall, home of the Gothenburg Symphony Orchestra. Music Director: Gustavo Dudamel.

Göteborgs Symfoniker – en del av

Gothenburg has an expanding young jazz scene, with bands such as Klabbes Bank and HiHank gaining more recog­ nition with each new gig. Part of this movement is the Naoko Sakata Trio, named and led by Japanese pianist Naoko Sakata. The band was formed at the Academy of Music and Drama in Gothenburg when Naoko Sakata did her admission test and met fellow players Anton Blomgren and Johan Birgenius. But how did a young japanese girl end up playing jazz on the opposite side of the world? – Back in Japan I listened to a lot of Swedish jazz. I liked that the music had a different color to American jazz. I really wanted to hear the musicians play live, so I decided to go to Sweden and check it out. I found the jazz scene in Gothenburg to be free and untraditional, which gives me ample opportunity of expressing my real feelings. Check out Naoko Sakata Trio: myspace.com/naokosakatatrio

Metro retro Daniella Kruth is a singer/songwriter who has won Metro’s major music competition “Metro on stage”. She performed at last summer’s Way out West festival. Her music can be described as retro-pop with influences of Americana and country.

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Busy being Björn There are thousands of stories about musician and producer Björn Olsson. To say that he is a mythical figure is an understatement. No-one really knows any longer what’s true and what’s false. It’s completely true that he formed bands such as Union Carbide Productions and The Soundtrack of Our Lives. And then he left them unexpectedly and suddenly when both were on the very edge of making their breakthroughs. It’s also true that he is one of Sweden’s most in-demand music producers while also being the key creative partner of Gothenburg’s favorite son, Håkan Hellström. Of course, he has himself helped to build up all the myths through legendary quotes in magazine interviews. Björn Olsson also releases music under his own name every now and then, dreamy, fantasy-filled instrumental tracks. This year he has a new album out, Lite nya melodier. It’s only appea­ ring on vinyl, but it also comes with a code so you can download a digital version. “My fourth child was on its way, so I thought that I had better do an album for financial reasons. I was thinking

about selling this album with personal delivery, from my car,” says Björn, and it’s hard to know exactly how much truth there is in that. He sounds completely serious, and he adds: “People think musicians are exciting but then you turn up in a car with child seats in it and they get disappointed, which is good in some ways…” Cars are important in Björn’s life. “I often sit in my car and play the guitar. It’s so relaxing. I like to drive up to the church at Masthugget with a thermos of coffee and I play a bit after I’ve dropped off the kids at school. Then I sleep for a few hours in the car.” So, what’s the music like? According to Björn, one side is “gloomy piano music that you can snooze to” while the other side is “the normal whistling thing”. His solo albums don’t sell in huge numbers, but the fans he does have are very loyal. It’s writing songs for Håkan Hellström that pays the bills. In-between he manages to produce records for artists such as Mando Diao. “But then I get a bad conscience about Håkan. He’s so nice and polite. He never says anything, but I feel a bit bad about it.”

www.gso.se gothenburg concert hall, gÖtaPlatSen. GothenburG Symphony orcheStra - the national orcheStra of Sweden. crown SponSor VolVo. main SponSorS Seb, GöteborGS-poSten and SKf.


s t o r y: Adam Wladis

Jeans may be the global uniform, but in Gothenburg the major brands are being dwarfed by local denim heroes. The Nudie Jeans company has achieved phenomenal global success with its creative interpretation of the universal denim culture. One million pairs of jeans sold every year is the current score – a success built on inno­ vation, integrity and idealism.

Gothenburg Blues

Rockin’, genuine and with a Swedish signature – that was the original recipe when designer Maria Levin founded Nudie Jeans in 2001.

The timing was perfect. The jeans industry was stagnant, dominated by a few giant corporations. At the creative level there was plenty still to achieve, but no-one was trying. Maria Levin, who had learnt the business from the inside working for American jeans behemoth Lee, could feel it in her fingertips. The time was ripe, so she and a few friends decided to give Nudie their best shot. The Nudie gang started on a modest scale in the early 2000s. No major investment was needed, and things moved fast. All of the buyers they made presentations to bought the concept straight away. A pent-up demand began to meet its supply. “When we started we had an idea, an approach. There was no plan for how we would succeed. We just had a strong vision, to make nice jeans, products we liked ourselves, made in a fair way, with good relations with all the people involved. The commercial force surprised us completely,” says Joakim Levin, former CEO and now chairman of Nudie Jeans. Annual sales of jeans with the spe­ cial Nudie wave on the back pocket now amount to over one million pairs. The company has around 100 employees, of whom 30 work in Gothenburg. Around 80% of sales are exported abroad. The current sales target is around SEK 400 million. But the most important component of Nudie Jeans has no obvious monetary value. Many businesses envy this strong brand, which is associated with

integrity, independence and consistensame products over a longer period. cy in everything it does. It’s also worth Compare us with H&M who focus noting that they spend hardly any on new fashion and cheap products. money on marketing and advertising. We’re the opposite – expensive and Nudie Jeans oozes solidity; they slow!” know what they are doing. Joakim The Nudie team might be a bit pigLevin says that this was intentional, headed, not bothering with how others because their aim was always to do things, but that’s part of their work long-term with customers and success. And over the years they’ve suppliers. This ensures that Nudie built up a strong fanbase, who they builds strong business relations. Now take care of. Just like a rock band, a the aim is for the company to grow comparison they like. structurally. It is opening sales offices “We don’t aim to be flavour of the in Europe and already has several month. So we have to take care of foreign subsidiaries. what we’ve got. But we’ve been doing “Expanding is fun. We have always this for ten years now, and can carry wanted to see how far we can take on for ten more years. How will we this. Sometimes we’ve hit the brakes develop? Well, we’ll work even harder to avoid selling out our core concept. with corporate social responsibility, We have allowed and make sure ourselves to be we provide fair rigid. This is how “Compare us with working condiwe want to do it! tions. We’re good H&M who focus on at that today, but Our philosophy is to sell as much as we must show new fashion and we can, but only that more clearly, cheap products. when what we sell and improve even is what we stand We’re the opposite further of course. for. Otherwise we Maybe we should – expensive and can leave it be.” start making more slow!” Nudie Jeans’ noise…” approach is unique Whatever in many ways, not course their least in terms of their independence. marketing strategy takes in future, you The major chains have stopped offe­ can be sure of one thing about this ring to buy them up. They know now company. Customers walking around they will not get anywhere. and advertising Nudie Jeans will “We look much more to the long become more and more common, all term, and the trends that concern us over the world. do not change so quickly. We have the

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s t o r y: Linda Genborg

Global Citizens People from all over the world have come to Gothenburg for centuries, ever since the town was laid out by Dutch engineers who called it New Amsterdam. The industrialism in the 1800s was masterminded by Englishmen, promoting the nickname Little London. But what brings young people to Gothenburg today?

Tim

Tim Winter is a 29 year-old film direc­tor from England. He has lived in Gothenburg for about three years. What brings you here? I fell in love with a Swede and I wanted a change to my London life. She cunningly managed to only invite me to Sweden when the sun was out and I never saw a cloud. I think she secretly wanted to move back from London,

Sona

Sona Gevorgyan is a 29-yearold relocation consultant from Armenia who has lived in Gothenburg for about 10 years. What brings you here? I came to Sweden to get a good education. I enjoy Sweden’s high living standards.

where we were living...I was easy prey. Do you have a favourite place in Gothenburg to take visitors during the chilly months? I love the frozen lakes during the winter months. I find it’s sunnier here during the winter than summer so I’d definitely invite my visitors to a korv (sausage) on the ice... What is your favourite part of the city? Röda Sten, it’s a part of the city that attempts to take a

step back from Sweden’s conservative nature. It hosts the Art Biennale and Clandestino Festival plus other events that explore alternative culture. If you want to see something different then come here. It has a giant suspension bridge that overlooks a large rugged wasteland. With its complimenting graffiti and shoddy tagging it makes you feel like you’re in another city. A nice escape.

Do you have a favourite place in Gothenburg to take visitors during the chilly months? Liseberg for sure is the first place I think of in Gothenburg, with its thousands of warming lights and wonderful smells of roasted, candied almonds. But if I have visitors after Liseberg has closed for the winter season, there are the cosy cafés of Haga, the

Göteborg Opera or the Art Museum (Konstmuseum), to name a few. What is your favourite part of the city? I like Guldheden for its calm­ ness as I live there. From there I easily walk to the Botanical Gardens, Slottsskogen, the restaurant street Linnégatan and the lively promenade Avenyn.

The Göteborg Opera

Ben

Ben Kendall is a 31-yearold writer from Australia who has lived in Gothenburg since 2008. What brings you here? The usual story for an Australian - love. While backpacking through Spain I had a holiday romance with a Swede. Eight years later I’m living in a city with a name that still reminds me of Batman’s Gotham City. Do you have a favourite place in Gothenburg to take visitors during the chilly months? If it’s been snowing the forests and lakes at Delsjön are quite stunning and great for a walk. It’s only a short tram ride, but feels like another world. Another good option is a ferry ride through the rocky archipelago. What is your favourite part of the city? I have several. Mariaplan has a real village feel, which I like. It’s only small but has a few good cafés, a nice English style pub and is close to both Slottsskogen and Röda Sten. Otherwise I spend a lot of time in Linnéstaden, usually walking, eating or drinking.

With its unique mix of opera, contemporary dance, musicals and concerts, The Göteborg Opera is known as a modern and innovative opera house. The audience is heterogeneous and our stages attract well-known directors, choreographers, dancers and conductors from around the world, creating productions which attract international attention. The Göteborg Ballet, part of The Göteborg Opera, is one of the most attractive contemporary dance companies in Europe at the moment, housing 40 dancers from 17 countries. The Göteborg Opera is situated by the river, close to The Clarion Hotel Post. To learn more, please visit www.opera.se. Our website provides videos, music and articles as well as practical information. Box Office 031-13 13 00 . www.opera.se

Oana

26-year-old Oana Georgescu is a communications student from Romania who has lived in Gothenburg for about two and half years. What brings you here? I came here to do a master’s programme at the University of Gothenburg. Do you have a favourite

62

place in Gothenburg to take visitors during the chilly months? I think cafés are the best places during the chilly months and Gothenburg has so many of them. It’s hard to name just one. It usually depends on the area I’m in. One cosy nice café is Ethel’s on Linnégatan. They always have good food and huge hot chocolates and you feel

welcomed as if visiting rela­ tives. I also like Da Matteo on Vallgatan, which even though it’s placed closer to the centre has the same kind of atmosphere. It’s hard to get a table during the weekends though. What is your favourite part of the city? The Linné-Majorna area because it has a certain kind of charm. It’s very close to

the centre, the architecture is different than in other parts of the town and people are more relaxed. I think the whole area from Haga to Järntorget, Linnégatan and Masthuggstorget has a warm atmosphere and offers various alternatives to the crowded Avenyn. Every­ thing in this area has more personality.


s t o r y: Adam Wladis

Welcome to the world according to

Annika von Hausswolff


Annika von Hausswolff made her breakthrough in 1993 with Back to Nature, a series of photographs inspired by crime scene images that was both fascinating and shocking. Abandoned naked bodies on a beach or tennis court, on the border between documentary and fiction. A human presence haunts all of von Hausswolff’s images, although often only as a suggestion. Threat, violence, exposure, isolation are also often on display. The documentary side of her work has grown more important over time. Collaboration with Jan Jörnmark, an economics historian at University of Gothenburg, was therefore a logical next step for Annika. The result was a book entitled Avgrunden (The Abyss), which was published in the autumn of 2011. “In the book, Jan Jörnmark writes about the effects of globalisation on Western society. I travelled with him

66

and documented abandoned places that bear traces of the crisis,” explains Annika. Her photographic documentation of the trip includes evocative, fate­ ful images of deserted locations, institutions and homes. The photographs document real places as they also evoke human vulnerability. The assignment was a new departure for her. “The working method here was diametrically opposed to how I normally work,” she admits. “Normally I start with an idea that I try to stage photographically. Often this requires a large-format camera, and this takes time. I can use props. But working on this book I built up a large archive of images relatively quickly that I could then choose from. It was very stimulating.” The material from the trip led to an exhibition, Overhual. This was

the first time Annika found an entry into digital photography techniques. She had previously announced that she would never stop using the dark room to process her images. “Whilst working on the Overhaul exhibition I found a way to justify for myself the use of digital raw material. I made a sort of collage that I printed on Fine Art paper. These images are not photography, they are something else.” Annika von Hausswolff finds inspiration in art history, music, poetry, film (Ingmar Bergman especially!) and other artists, of course. Two of her favourites are Louise Bourgeois and Bruce Naumann. She lived in Berlin until recently and found it inspiring, not least for the artistic climate. But now she lives in Gothenburg. “Gothenburg is my home town and this is where I want my children to grow up.”


s t o r y: Anders Westgårdh p h o t o : Emelie Lager

After almost ten years in America, Jimmy Lappalainen has come back to his native Gothenburg and the position of executive chef at the Clarion Hotel Post. Together with colleague and friend Marcus Samuelsson, he will aim for the best of both worlds.

 Atlantic

cross  cooking


“There was simply no way I could resist this once-in-a-lifetime experience,” says Jimmy Lappalainen, executive chef at the Clarion Hotel Post.

We’ve tried to think of every kind of customer. The celebrating family, the traveler between trains, the international businesswoman and the tired guy who’s been working all day and just wants a burger before going to bed. Marcus Samuelsson and Jimmy Lappalainen have been working together for many years. Their paths first crossed when they were young and working at several of the leading Gothenburg restaurants. In 2000, Lappalainen had the opportunity to train at Aquavit, one of New York’s most acclaimed restaurants, where he worked under fellow Gothenburg native, Marcus Samuelsson. It was at Aquavit where Samuelsson first recognized Lappalainen’s true culinary potential. “Jimmy is very driven. He’s an extremely professional chef, and he understands both hotels and restaurants,” says Marcus Samuelsson, who is the creative leader in the development of the concept now manifested as Norda Bar & Grill, which is the culinary heart of the new hotel. Marcus Samuelsson was born in Ethiopia but grew up in Gothenburg where he learned to cook. Since his first job in New York, his international career has included the honor of cooking at the White House and lecturing for world leaders at The World Summit in Davos 2011. This dream team has spent two and a half years planning for Norda. Their mutual experience forms the foundation for an entirely new

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kind of restaurant in Gothenburg, catering to an unusually wide range of customers – from big spenders to regular families, from the single guest looking for a quick meal before heading off to the train to large companies celebrating in grand style. “To offer something for everybody is a central part of our strategy,” explains Jimmy. “We’ve really tried to envision all kinds of people as our guests.” While Marcus mainly stays in Harlem where he resides, Jimmy is in charge of daily activities at Norda with a staff of some 15 people. Both men believe they will be able to collaborate closely, even though the Atlantic sits between them. Years of hard work have welded them together around a shared philosophy where the produce is the real boss, with color, texture and presentation adding an extra twist to even the most well-known dishes. “We have fantastic produce in and around Gothenburg. Every Swedish guest will recognize the food, but they will experience it differently and better than they are used to,” says Jimmy.

Opening Night 17 Feb By Niklas RådstRöm Director steFaN metz

On Stage Mina azarian, Per-anDerS ericSOn, carl-MagnuS DellOw, laMine Dieng, JOhan gry, henric hOlMBerg, carina M JOhanSSOn, Miran KaMala, PeTTer Kevin, MichaliS KOuTSOgiannaKiS, MagnuS linDBerg, MaTTiaS nOrDKviST, eMilie STranDBerg, aMelie ThOrén, nina zanJani

Marcus Samuelsson explains the extensive work required to create all of the hotel’s food and drink concepts. “Jimmy and I share ideas every day and we’ve reviewed every dish backwards and forwards.” Naturally, there are influences from New York and the US on the menu, including a dish such as short ribs with BBQ sauce and black-eyed peas. But above all, guests will notice the fabulous fish and seafood available in Gothenburg. One of many novelties on the menu is the Gothenburg classic, the ‘halv special’ (see story on page 72). This is among the simplest street food served at Norda, an updated interpretation featuring bratwurst, brioche and lobster salad. “It’s the perfect description of what we want to achieve,” says Jimmy. “Taking a popular dish and turning it into a modern and completely new experience.”

Marcus Samuelsson, creative leader at Norda Bar & Grill.

Tickets 031 708 71 00

www.stadsteatern.goteborg.se


Illustration: Jonas Karner

s t o r y: Anders Westgårdh

Introducing the halv special While London has fish and chips and Berlin has the doner kebab, the classic street food of Gothenburg is the “halv special”. Long before the arrival of McDonalds and other global fast food chains, Sweden had its “korvkiosk” (hot dog stand) providing a reliable source of fast carbohydrates. A hot dog stand is the an­ swer for any office worker who needs a quick bite between meetings, as well as offering the final destination of many a night on the town. The menu may have expanded over the years but the “halv special” has remained a Gothenburg classic, even though no dietician might want to recommend it. So, what makes the “halv special” so special? The ingredients are simple enough: a hot dog is placed

72

in a bun. A generous heap of mashed potatoes is placed upon the bread and the hot dog. The whole dish is served on a paper platter, and eaten with a small plastic or wooden fork. That’s the way it has been since 1942, when the first “halv special” was served at a local korvkiosk on Vågmästareplatsen in Gothenburg. Legend has it that it was first concocted by two young football players and served by one Albert Johansson. The next person in line was inspired to order “one of those specials”. The bun, the hot dog and the mash are the basics of this staple dish. Many like

ketchup and/or mustard on top, while others prefer to add pickles, mayo, toasted onion, prawn salad or any other condiment they can think of at that moment. Drink? Well, anything goes with a “halv special”. But if a hard-core fan were to give a recommendation it would definitely be a ‘Pucko’, the classic Swedish drink since 1954 made from milk, sugar and chocolate. Bon appetit!

The halv special is a sig­ nature dish at Norda Bar & Grill, with bratwurst, bricoche bread, lobster salad and potato purée.

7:ans Gatukök This legendary late night pit stop celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2010 and still serves all the traditional stuff in a crammed but friendly atmosphere until the early hours. Vasagatan 7 Lasse på Heden This historic institution next to the football fields at Heden serves a large number of hot dog and hamburger meals, and also a range of ecological options. Engelbrektsgatan 34 D Skansgrillen Honest, no-frills ‘korvkiosk’ at the parking lot in Haga, serving customers in a glassed-in room to keep the rain and wind at bay. Skanstorget Grönsakstorgets Gatukök One of the most centrally located ‘korvkiosks’ in the classic style (a small shed). The owner is from Teheran, as are many of the people who uphold the “halv special” legacy in Gothenburg. Grönsakstorget Oves People travel from miles around to this legendary ‘korvkiosk’, in the east of town. Since the early 1950s, Oves has been renowned for its homemade mashed potatoes exclusively made from King Edwards. A meeting place for good ol’ boys, as well as their kids. Göteborgsvägen 36


Street Food favourites Though abundant with fancy restaurants, Gothenburg is also full of easy eating places with good chow at a nice price. Here are 5 great stops full of character and charm. Bite into the soul of the city!

Gourmetkorv A hole-in-the-wall place with standing room for less than ten people, Gourmetkorv draws big crowds around lunchtime when the queue stretches way out into the street. And they’re all craving sausage! The a la carte menu includes some 20 different varieties, mostly from Teutonic cuisine. Potato salad and sauerkraut galore! Södra Larmgatan 6

Kåges Hörna Strömmingsluckan Since it opened about two years ago, Strömmingsluckan has become the favourite hang-out for lunch among many of Gothenburg’s young creative workers, as well as its discerning senior citizens. The signature dish is fried herring (strömming) with mashed potatoes and lingonberries, served in generous portions and moderately priced. Even by Swedish standards, this is a highly unusual place. Magasinsgatan 19

Located in the large market hall on Kungstorget, this u-shaped bar is one of the best options for those seeking well-cooked nutritious food at very decent prices. Accompanied by the sound of meat saws and the smells of every spice known to man, this is “as close to origo as you can come in Gothenburg culture”, as architect Per Bornstein once put it. Saluhallen, Kungstorget

Slapping fish on happy customers, Thomas and David draws a big lunch crowd to Strömmingsluckan. enjoy the national dish of meatballs served with a spicy mustard, homemade mashed potatoes and lingonberry jam. The meatballs are king size, so if you are new at this you should settle for an order of three. Kungstorget 3

Café Du Nord

Feskekôrka

Dating back to 1875, this is where the people of Gothenburg go to

The Fish Church (named after its architectural style) is the local fish

and seafood market in town. Since 1874 it has been a cult place for worshippers of Scandinavia’s largest selection of fresh fish and seafood, containing numerous fishmongers and two fine restaurants. Buy a bag of prawns and a can of beer and eat a memorable lunch right by the canal. Rosenlundsgatan

from

285

Upplev mer betala mindre

SEE morE SavE morE Located in the heart of bohemic Majorna, you will find Efessos Taverna - a must when you are in Gothenburg. Surrounded by candles and Greek music you will enjoy a wide selection of traditional Greek cuisine. Karl Johansgatan 60 | Phone +46.31.129978 www.efessos.se

efessos TAV E R N A

Looking for that perfect teapot, some organic first flush Darjeeling or a superb Japanese gyokuro? At Tekultur, we are truly dedicated to tea. Discover our wide selection of exquisite teas and selected accessories. Welcome! Tekultur Andra Långgatan 7 031- 320 90 80 www.tekultur.nu

Göteborg City Card ger dig fri entré till bl.a. Liseberg, Universeum, fria resor med spårvagn, buss och båt, fria resor med Paddan samt massor av bra shoppingerbjudanden. Även parkering ingår. Köp ditt City Card från 285 kronor på turistbyråerna eller på goteborg.com The Gothenburg City Card gives you free admission to Liseberg, Universeum, the Paddan boats, free public transport and much more. Buy your City Card from SEK 285 at the Tourist Information Centres, or at gothenburg.com

SEK


Dinner is served Recently appointed by the Swedish government as Capital of Food Country 2012, Gothenburg offers a rich variety of restaurants – from star-studded gourmet cuisine to rustic classics, from the trendy to the traditional. Enjoy! Top of the line $$$ 28+ Top ranking since 1985, 28+ is the Gothenburg restaurant with the most consecutive numbers of Michelin stars. With their uncompromising focus on giving their guests the biggest possible food experience, this is one of Sweden’s best destinations for fine dining – although without excessive formality. World-class wine cellar. Götabergsgatan 28, phone 031-20 21 61

Fiskekrogen One of Gothenburg’s leading fish and seafood restaurants. Lobster, prawns, mussels and oysters served as they should be. Unique, beautiful views across the old entrance to the harbour. Lilla Torget 1, phone 031-10 10 05

Fond With ingredients picked from the Scandinavian larder and in harmony with the four seasons, Stefan Karlsson conjures up Swedish dishes that warm the soul. Professional, well thought-through and always at the highest level. Götaplatsen 1, phone 031-81 25 80

Kock & Vin With three completely different venues, Björn Persson is one of Gothenburg’s leading restaurateurs. Kock & Vin is the flagship, an elegant restaurant offering modern cooking of international standard. Local produce is a key component and the wines are excellent. Viktoriagatan 12 C, phone 031-701 79 79

Linnea Art Restaurant This discreet location has been the home of quality restaurants for more than half a century and the Linnea Art Restaurant may be the best one yet. Richly adorned with glass art from the Kosta Boda glassworks, it was voted ”Setting of the year” in 2010. Highly regarded by all major Swedish critics. Södra Vägen 32, phone 031-1611 83

Sjömagasinet Sweden’s most famous fish and seafood restaurant, which attracts celebrities and gourmets from all over the world to enjoy the finest

76

ingredients found in the sea. Professional, cosy, always memorable. Adolf Edelsvärds gata 5, phone 031-775 59 20

Swedish Taste Overlooking the Opera House and harbour, this is a favourite both among businessmen entertaining foreign guests and Gothenburg food-lovers with helthy wallets. As indicated by the name, the kitchen works solely with Swedish produce representing all parts of the country. It’s like an embassy, almost. Sankt Eriksgatan 6, phone 031-13 27 80

Thörnströms Kök Håkan Thörnström (see separate story) may be the hardest working man in the business, and was recently awarded a well-deserved Michelin star and the prestigious national award for both Restaurant of the Year and Restaurateur of the Year 2011. ‘Nuff said, right? Teknologgatan 3, phone 031-16 20 66

WELL DONE, MEDIUM PRICED $$ Barrique Tucked away in a quiet side-street off Avenyn, this cosy cellar is a good choice for those particular about their wine. The wine-list is an organic thing and may change from time to time. The food is great too. Lorensbergsgatan 8, phone 031-20 86 90

Bon Only a year in existence, this clever replica of the classic Parisian bistro feels as if it has been here for a century. With good food and great ambiance, Bon is a very popular meeting place, so make sure to book in advance. Arkivgatan 4, phone 031-18 00 44

Caleo Located a few short steps from Avenyn, this is one of the most popular places in town for afterwork wind-down or a pre-theatre dinner. Casual Mediterranean cuisine from an ever-changing menu draws a wide range of guests. Engelbrektsgatan 39 B, phone 031-708 93 40

Dubbel Dubbel Small, lovingly kneaded dumplings and wontons served with great sauces. A favourite spot for media and advertising folk. The small wooden tables in these simple premises are always busy. Kastellgatan 14, phone 031-13 04 00

Familjen The great atmosphere is a prize winner. Modern Swedish gastronomy with a regional touch, with plenty of respect for ingredients and classic dishes. Champagne and oysters every Friday/Saturday at reasonable prices. Arkivgatan 7, phone 031-20 79 79

Gabriel If Feskekôrkan fish and seafood market is the place of worship, Gunnar Malm may well be the high priest. For more than 25 years Gabriel has been serving the best of the west coast from an open kitchen with a full view of the market hall. The Bohus buffet is a feast of lobster, crabs, shrimps, salmon and oysters. Daytime only. Fisktorget, phone 031-13 90 51

Hello Monkey Innovative food creators of the new school Asian serving magnificent dim sum with chili, cinnamon, coriander, lime, plum, sesame and soya. Extra points for charming staff and lovely drinks. Magasinsgatan 26, 031-13 04 42

Hos Pelle Exquisite home cooking in a family style setting. Dining at Hos Pelle is not unlike being invited to a good friend’s for a carefully planned dinner. An option is to eat at the small bistro by the bar, where the many locals hang out. Djupedalsgatan 2, phone 031-12 10 31

Hostaria Casa Nostra A simple, authentic Italian restaurant with its heart in the right place. Meat, fish, pasta and risotto in the classic style – delicious, without the needlessly fancy edges. Vegagatan 50, phone 031-2417 24

fish restaurateur Leif Mannerström, who raised both standards and prices. Classical Swedish – solid home-cooking with style. The cod is reliably excellent. Vasagatan 58, phone 031-13 79 88

level – especially the service of the staff in their contemporary liveries. Ambitious Mexican cooking with finesse. Don’t miss the drinks list. Magasinsgatan 3, phone 031-711 88 38

La Cucina Italiana

Sjöbaren

Signore Pietro Fioriniello expresses his Italian cooking skills with love and personality with an exciting mix of Italian and Swedish ingre­ dients. The atmosphere is intimate in these tiny premises, so you will need to book in advance. Skånegatan 33, phone 031-16 63 07

Located in Haga in a house built in 1869, this is a small place with big atmosphere. The interior may seem like an overdose of marine paraphernalia and fishing utensils, but once the food arrives it all makes sense. Haga Nygata 25, phone 031-71197 80

Meet A straight-forward no nonsense place, this is where meat lovers meet to eat. NZ lamb-racks, Texas ribeye, Swedish or Kobe beef – whatever your expectations, Meet will meet them. Geijersgatan 12, phone 031-18 05 50

M2 When the New York Times visited Gothenburg a couple of years back, dinner at M2 was described as the most memorable dinner of the trip. Crayfish, cod, duck’s liver, reindeer topside – everything in top class. The wine expertise here is worth exploiting. Magasinsgatan 8, 031-13 30 00

Norda Bar & Grill The restaurant at the Clarion Hotel Post is a meeting place for both the hotel guests and the good folk of Gothenburg. Masterminded by international chef Marcus Samuelsson, Norda works with the best produce from fish­mongers, farmers, bakers and brewers all around Gothenburg. The result is top notch. Drottningtorget 10, phone 031-6190 00

Peacock Dinner Club Modern Euro-Asian food in luxury premises that turn into a night-club as the night unfolds. Dim sum, dumplings, sushi and sashimi of the absolute highest class. Kungsportsavenyn 21, phone 031-13 88 55

Kometen

Puta Madre

Once a favourite spot for artists, this site was taken over by legendary

The atmosphere of a Mexican brothel, with shameless excess at every

FUNKY BUT CHEAP $ Krakow With absolutely no respect for current weight-loss trends, this Polish institution has been serving hearty food for decades. The breaded cheese with fried potatoes and sauce tartare is a classic, and can be ordered as a full or half portion. Half is enough if you are not a professional woodchopper. Karl Gustavsgatan 28, phone 031-20 33 74

Bistro Merlot They do frogs legs, they do escargot – but mostly they do the funky chicken and other popular fare such as hamburgers or mixed-grill skewers. Good food at a reasonable price, what else do you need? Oh, the wine list – well it’s also very attractive. Engelbrektsgatan 34 B, phone 031-20 10 21

Moon Thai kitchen Spicy Thai food, jazzy drinks, but the décor is half the pleasure. Colourful lamps, bamboo, glittering disco balls in the ceiling and bright textiles on the walls create the perfect tropical milieu. Storgatan 1, phone 031-774 28 28

Stearin Homely, cozy neighborhood pub – perfect for a small circle of diners. The focus is a mix of modern, Swedish and innovative. Stearin bar is just as popular at the weekends. Tredje Långgatan 8, phone 031-14 77 88

Happy Håkan Thörnström caught in a reflective moment.

Starstruck s t o r y: Adam Wladis

14 years of hard work finally paid off for Håkan Thörnström, owner of Thörnströms Kök. In March 2011 the restaurant was awarded a coveted star in the prestigious Guide Michelin. Simplicity is what Håkan Thörnström admires most in cookery. “Food should be straightforward. Proper cooking, and value for money of course.” Håkan Thörnström is a long-time member of Sweden’s cookery elite and has been one of the key players in the renaissance of Swedish cuisine. His food is among the most refined you can taste in the whole country, with its focus on modern Scandinavian influences together with top class, regional ingredients, whether it be fresh seafood or tender slow-roast. “There is a lot experimental cooking out there with chemistry and stuff. I like the modern kitchen, but the choice of raw materials must never come second.” Proper cooking is an important component in Håkan Thörnström’s cooking philosophy, but earning a star in the Michelin Guide requires a commitment to perfection at every level. It’s the attention to detail that

builds the overall experience for a customer. “Your guest should be over­ whelmed. Even the most regular restaurant visitor must have their expectations fulfilled, and prefer­ ably exceeded. Food and wine and the entire evening must be complete. Everything must feel genuine. You always want to provide a great restaurant occasion. It must never be the emperor’s new clothes.” What new ideas can your guests expect to enjoy this year? “We aim to develop our desserts. There’s a lot to do there, by experimenting with textures, for example. I like working with crunchy ingredients at the moment, and concentrating ingredients to get at the essence of their flavour. That’s what you can expect this spring!”

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Night Life Welcome to Clubland! Whether you want to gidappa to classic soul or groove to the latest in r&b and electro, Gothenburg has a good selection of night clubs in different styles and formats. Here are 5 reliable places where you never need to fight for your right to party. Yaki-Da Exactly what a nightclub should be! Entertainment on three storeys, with two dance floors, a terrace and an espresso bar. A different temperament and music in each room. A restaurant was recently opened in the attic on the rebuilt fourth floor. One of few venues near Avenyn that manages to satisfy a mixed crowd while remaining intimate and friendly. Storgatan 47 yaki-da.se

Push An enormously lavish nightclub featuring neon, loud music, smoke machines and bars that attract the richest young brats to party like there is no tomorrow. There are special VIP areas, although no-one seems to care. Kungsportsavenyn 11 laroy.se/push

Nefertiti Legendary jazz club with live music in the evenings and then different nightclub themes in the early hours with the latest in electronica, house, techno, indie, noise, R&B and soul. Packed at the bar, packed on the dance floor but always a warm and friendly welcome. Hvitfeldtsplatsen 6 nefertiti.se

Park Lane After two decades at the top, it’s OK to call yourselves Sweden’s hardest-working nightclub. Over the years, Robbie Williams, Mick Jagger and the King of Sweden have walked through the doors. The large dance floor and classic nightclub décor exert a fascinating pull on a very mixed crowd. Kungsportsavenyn 36 parklane.se

Sticky Fingers A genuine rock club. Three storeys, two stages – one on the ground floor, another built in a former church. The music ranges from hard rock in the cellar, pop, rock and indie on the ground floor to soul, funk, hip-hop and R&B on the top floor. All tastes and styles are welcome. Several different clubs and live acts alternate through the week. Kaserntorget 7 www.stickyfingers.nu

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With no roof for shelter, the roof top pool on the 14th floor of Clarion Hotel Post is challenging the weather gods in an almost provocative manner.

s t o r y: Johan Lindgren

Post modern­ The old abandoned Post Office in Gothenburg has been transformed into a top-notch international hotel. The man responsible for both interior and exterior design is architect Magnus Månsson, a professor of architecture and also CEO of the Semrén & Månsson firm of architects, which is based in Gothenburg. The original Post Office building was designed by another Gothenburg architect called Ernst Torulf. It was finished in 1925. In 1995 the Swedish government classified it as a heritage site, which according to Magnus Månsson is one of the factors that made the project such a great challenge as he tried to create harmony between the old and the new. “The new building is a younger relative of the older building,” says Magnus. “They have the same DNA. They are both built from the same materials, copper and slate.” Preserving the original environment in the interior was another major challenge, one that Magnus considers they have met. One of the old cashier halls contains one of the finest 1920s interiors in northern Europe. It has been preserved as carefully as possible. The Clarion Hotel Post is a new living space for the people of Gothenburg, a place for meetings. It became a benchmark for the architects at Semrén & Månsson right from the start. With the aim of making everyone feel as welcome as possible, the design of the hotel lobby was crucial. Magnus says that the key to success was making the restaurant and bar highly visible, so that you feel you have come to the right place. He’s very pleased with the finished result. He considers that hotel and city meet each other in an agreeable way. There is however one detail he would like to have changed: “If I had had my way the hotel would have been even higher. But you can’t have everything…”

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NORDSTAN

Runan Reklambyrå Foto: Carlo Baudone

Shopping

Sveriges ledande affärscentrum | Göteborg City | 200 butiker, varuhus, restauranger och kaféer | P-hus Nordstan alltid öppet, alltid plats Öppet mån–fre 10–20, lör 10–18, sön 11–17 | Livs mån-fre 08–21, lör 10–20, sön 10–20 Gratis parkering sön 10–19 (jan–nov) | www.nordstan.se | Avvikelser kan förekomma


s t o r y: Peter Wennö

Giant The Green

Tiger of Sweden

J. Lindeberg Dagmar

Question: What’s green, spins around and is 145 metres tall? Answer: Sweden’s biggest wind turbine.

Take the tram from the fitting room to the wardrobe. If you are in Gothenburg for the first time, we recommend you to take a tram ride. From ‘Drottningtorget’ just outside the Clarion Hotel Post to ‘Järntorget’ to one the city’s best clothes shops. Once you have found some new, stylish clothes (we have thirty different brands for both women and men, the city’s largest range of jeans, an unbeatable suit department, including tailors, personal shopper and fine accessories), our proposal is that you leave the fitting room, take the tram back to the hotel, hang up your coat in your wardrobe, have a drink and relax with a feeling that life is really good. What should one choose? Possibly something suitable from, for example, Acne, Dagmar, Eton, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Filippa K, Gant Rugger, G-star, Hugo Boss, Hunky Dory, Levi’s, J. Lindeberg, Ljung, NN07, Nudie Jeans, Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren, or Tiger.

Järntorgsgatan 8, Gothenburg. 031-10 23 10. Open: Monday– Friday 10 –19 . Saturday 10 –16. Sunday 12–16 .

Gothenburg is investing heavily to become a sustainable city and at the entrance to Scandinavia’s largest port, a brand new energy giant will produce enough power to provide 3 000 homes with electricity or 7 500 electric cars with power for 10 000 kilometres. In a world plagued by climate change, each contribution to reduced greenhouse gas emissions is welcome. The aim in Sweden is to increase production of wind power from today’s 3 terawatt hours to 15 terawatt hours by 2020. The City of Gothenburg has signed the European Covenant of Mayors agreement and is taking action to achieve a greener future. Gothenburg Energy, a municipallyowned company, is increasingly investing in renewable energy and has high hopes for the expansion

of wind power. Gothenburg Wind Lab (launched on 27 January this year) is a venture using General Electric’s new prototype 4.1 mega­ watt turbine that can be plugged straight into the electricity network. The 115 metre diameter propeller will not only supply electricity but also research data. The Chalmers University of Technology wind power unit, SWTCP, is using the project to test new technolo­ gical solutions under real conditions. The aim is to optimise how wind power’s direct current works with normal electricity supplies. Work on Gothenburg Wind Lab began last autumn and so far all the measurements, data and performances have been very im­pressive. For example, no fewer than 50 trucks were required to transport the crane used to put

the tower together on site and lift the blades and the almost 250-ton turbine housing. Because wind power requires strong and stable winds, offshore sites are becoming increasingly interesting – and General Electric’s prototype is designed for life at sea. Everyone involved in wind power is keen to point out that renewable energy is not only a question of environmental objec­ tives and reduced emissions. Wind power is also a good, profitable business for suppliers and electricity producers. It creates jobs, develops technical know-how and pushes electricity prices down for consumers. The answer is blowing in the wind. And in Gothenburg at the impressive height of 145 metres.

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When the game is over, I’ll come home with crêpes

s t o r y: Peter Wennö p h o t o : Christer Kanold

Holy mackerel, these Gais can skate!

Jump on the bandywagon Sports fan, are you? Then we have something out of the ordinary to recommend. Premier division bandy, played right in the heart of the city. A sports event hardly gets more exotic than this. It’s never too late to discover a new sport. And it’s never too late to start playing bandy. Just look at Gais in Gothenburg. A new club has reached the elite level in just a few years – and at a unique venue right in the heart of the city. Bandy has a long tradition on these latitudes but somehow lost its grip back in the 1980s as Swedes turned to more comfortable winter sports. Bandy was too cold to watch, even

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if you dressed up well and brought a flask to keep you warm. Elite clubs, one after another, built massive ice halls often outside small industrial towns to keep their audiences warm. Edsbyn, Bollnäs and Sandviken are classic examples. But in Gothenburg – a city that was never really prominent in this particular

game – they’re playing bandy today at the elite level – outdoors and smack dab in the city centre. Gais is a classic football club with a long history. It was therefore surprising back in 2005 when the club added a bandy section – and an even greater surprise that the team joined the elite division in 2011. Attracting a crowd in a city without a tradition of bandy isn’t easy though. The ambition from the start was to get access to a part of Heden, the large open parkland with football pitches, a stone’s throw from the most fashionable part of the city – Avenyn.

BANDY FACTS:  Played on ice between two teams of 11 players  Short side 60 – 65 meters, long side 90 –110 meters  Slightly curved sticks and a solid red ball  A 15 cm high border along the sidelines  Originated in Northern England but now mainly played in Sweden, Norway, Finland and Russia

As a professional footballer, I have had the privilege of playing all over the world, and I’ve certainly come a long way since my debut as a six-year-old in Kållered just outside Gothenburg. In September 2008 I joined Olympique Lyonnais. It was a dream come true to play for one of Europe’s top clubs and move overseas to France. I can’t say I knew a great deal about the country. Before I moved here perhaps the images I had in my head were a bottle of wine, a baguette and maybe a beret. But neither wine nor baguet­tes were on my mind on my first evening in Lyon when I stood at Basilique Notre-Dame de Four­ vière and looked out over the city. My one thought was that I was over­seas. The wind blew warm. We Swedes love the thought of overseas: It means holiday for us. In my mind I saw myself run­ ning over cobblestones towards the square to buy breakfast, with people saying ‘bonjour’. Maybe a few croissants in a bag. Or maybe not. In the mornings I like to stay in bed as long as possible. I play football, go training and every weekend there’s a game. So I don’t

often get up early for a continental breakfast. But that’s not a problem. I’m doing what I love to do. Any­ way, every now and then I sneak into Madame Françoise’s café in town and indulge in some of those fantastic crêpes. No, holiday for me now is coming back to my family in Gothenburg and my house by the sea. Spending a day in town and meeting up with my friends. I might get to see a game featuring my old teammates playing for Kopparberg/Göteborg FC. Or I might buy a drink at Tranquilo at Kungstorget. I love Gothenburg and although it might sound corny, it is true. The atmosphere in the city is great. It’s not that different to Lyon. Maybe it’s because both cities are the second largest cities in their re­ spective countries. Gothenburg is my home and I hope one day to end my career with the team where it all started. I would also like to open a café selling croissants and crêpes just as good as those at Madame Françoise’s. Lotta Schelin Player of Sweden women´s national football team and Champions League winner with Olympique Lyonnaise.

In 2008, an artificially-frozen bandy field was set up on one of the football pitches. Stands for up to 3,000 people were built in conjunction with the ice arriving in late autumn and for many people in Gothenburg it’s an almost exotic experience to watch elite bandy in the city centre. Gais Bandy now even has fans who, when it comes to football and the rest of the year, are dedicated fans of rival teams such as IFK Göteborg, Öis and Häcken…

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24 hours in 

– 

Gothenburg Experience the city like a local. From high-end restaurants to cosy cafés and hole-in-the-wall bars, we have gathered our favourite places to eat, drink and shop in Gothenburg. Cafés – from coffee bars to cosy pit stops If you are in the city centre, Da Matteo’s two cafés (Södra Larmgatan 14 and Vallgatan 5) and the quick stop coffee bars Bar Centro (Kyrkogatan 31) and Mauritz Kaffe (Fredsgatan 2) serve some of the city’s finest coffee. Slightly further away a good brew and a light snack can be had at Bar Italia (Prinsgatan 7) and Doppio (Linnégatan 7). Café Terzi (Kastellgatan 13) is a friendly hang on a chilly day. It’s decked out with Italian designer furniture and serves good espresso coffee and freshly made Italian snacks and sandwiches. Hagabion Café (Linnégatan 21), which is part of an old arthouse cinema building, is a cosy café by day and bar/restaurant by night. It’s popular amongst the arty and hip and is great for a fika, vegetarian meal or even a few beers. If cosy is your goal, visit Caféva (Haga Nygata 5). For pastries and cakes try the elegant two-level café/patisserie Brogyllens Konditori (Västra hamngatan 2). Shopping – Swedish fashion for all For clothing and shoes the streets between Domkykan and Saluhallen are well worth a wander. You will find

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a mix of Swedish and international labels from the sophisticated House of Dagmar (Gillblads, Korsgatan 14 and Awesome Rags, Kungsgatan 27-29) to jeans specialist Nudie Jeans (Nudie Jeans, Vallgatan 15). If boutiques and vintage shops are more your style, Maga­sinsgatan and Vallgatan should be your destination. Restaurants – worldly cuisine To try some top notch modern Scandinavian cuisine, head to the Swedish restaurant of the year 2011 Thörnströms Kök (Teknologgatan 3). The menu is seasonal and includes local ingredients such as fish, mussels and even reindeer. In the same league is Linnéa Art Restaurant (Södra vägen 32) with its innovative food and impressive glass art décor, and the classy Michelin-rated Kock&Vin (Viktoriagatan 12). The cosy Björns Bar, located in the basement of Kock&Vin, is perfect for those that like to enjoy fine wine while picking away at cheeses, ham, oysters and duck liver. If you are in the mood for moules mariniéres and more wine visit the hip French bistro/ wine bar Bon (Arkivgatan 4) or Le Village (Nordhemsgatan 22) with its antique furniture and rustic vibe. For Asian fusion chow – mostly dim sum and sashimi – try the trendy and very central Hello Monkey (Magasinsgatan 26). Another dim sum option is Dubbel Dubbel (Kastellgatan 14) where the dumplings, the prices and the bar are all good. For more Asian, Moon

Thai Kitchen (Storgatan 1) with its kitsch bamboo décor and reasonable prices has some of the city’s best Thai food, while the Indian restaurant Maharani (Första Långgatan 4) serves classic and modern Indian food in an elegant locale. Silvis Palestinsk Restaurang (Nordhemsgatan 18) and Chateau Beirut (Karl Johansgatan 7) probably have the best al mazat/mezes in town and the tapas bar Tapasbaren (Mariagatan 17) is tasty, tiny and very cosy. For something heartier, head to the Polish restau­ rant Krakow (Karl Gustavsgatan 28) for a non-fancy night of beers, big portions and good atmosphere. Drinks – a night on the town When it comes to beer, Ölhallen 7:an (Kungstorget 7) is a Gothenburg classic. Not only is it the oldest beerhall in Sweden, it is also the only local bar that does not have to serve food. If you like things more contemporary, the popular Ölstugan Tullen (Andra Långgatan 13) sells only Swedish beer including some tasty numbers from local microbreweries Ocean, Dugges, Ahlafors and Grebbestad. The cosy cellar Tre

Små Rum (Kristinelundsgatan 4) is on the pricier side, but has a great range of classics and boutique gems. While Kino (Linnégatan 21), a Berlin-esque hole-in-the wall, and Café Publik (Andra Långgatan 21) are popular with the young and hip. For wine buffs, apart from Bon and Björns Bar, another good option is Barrique Wine Bar (Lorensbergsgatan 8). As for cocktails head to the 1920s inspired Puta Madre (Magasinsgatan 3), the upper-level of Hello Monkey or the late-night hotspot Yaki-Da (Storgatan 47) where you can finish the night with a boogie. If you also want to catch some live music, a safe bet is the intimate basement locale Nefertiti (Hvitfeldtsplatsen 6).

..... This article was produced by our friends at Göteborg Daily, the leading provider of local news in English.

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Traditional Swedish fastfood

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aka ted´s band from scrubs

stenhammarsalen, 26/1

active child henriksberg, 7/3

asking alexandria

four year strong

susanne alfvengren

justice

takida

joe bonamassa

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levellers

brewhouse, 31/1

trädgår´n, 18/3

brewhouse, 10/2

gothenburg´s consert stage, 20/3

trädgår´n, 3/3

hagakyrkan, 24/2

musikens hus, 29/3

sticky fingers, 29/4

gothenburg´s consert stage! tickets and more: www.kulturbolaget.se


A Close Encounter with Animal Wildlife.

Wonder Boy Kokokaka may sound like child’s play, but don’t be fooled by either the name or the appearance of its leader.

gnm.se

How close is too close? We offer you the opportunity to enjoy a close contact with animal wildlife. And why not find out more about the history of the planet Earth and the origin of life, wild animals from all corners of the globe along with our Swedish species? Don’t miss the world’s largest mounted blue whale, the African elephant and the other mounted celebrities on display in the Museum. Getting here is easy, just catch tram No 1, 2 or 6 from Drottningtorget by Clarion Hotel Post to Linnéplatsen.

For clients such as Louis Vuitton, Wrangler, IKEA and Cos, digital magic from Gothenburg is an essential part of their marketing and brand building. Kokokaka is a leading light among Sweden’s digital agencies, several of which have become international players at the highest level. Forsman & Bodenfors is one well-known frontrunner, but in latter years Jimmy and his gang at Kokokaka have taken their well-deserved place in the spotlight. With the motto “Nothing is done, everything is possible, we haven’t seen nothing yet!” Kokokaka works internationally and is an award-winning and acclaimed digital agency specializing in fashion, design, art, film, sound and music with clients such as Burberry, Wrangler, IKEA and Swedish International Broadcasting Radio in its portfolio. Their best-known campaign was for Wrangler. It won gold at Cannes Lion Cyber for best digital campaign. It’s not easy any more to count up all the awards they have won, but it doesn’t seem to really matter. Jimmy has never turned up to receive a prize. Instead he prefers to see it as recognition for Kokokaka’s methods, strategy and approach. Kokokaka celebrated ten years as a digital agency by opening an office in Stockholm, but the plans for the future stretch way beyond Sweden’s borders. “Within two years I think we’ll be opening an office in Paris,” says Jimmy Herdberg. “Paris is undeniably the fashion capital of the world. Our customer, Luis Vuitton, is based there, so it’s logical for us to choose Paris ahead of New York or London.”

Göteborgs Naturhistoriska Museum/ The Gothenburg Natural History Museum We are located in Slottsskogen, close to Linnéplatsen +46 (0)31–775 24 00 | www.gnm.se Opening hours: Tuesday – Sunday 11.00 – 17.00

Activities at The Gothenburg Natural History Museum are run by Västarvet, the largest administration of natural and cultural heritage in Sweden. Find information about current activities on www.vastarvet.se

Check out the work of Kokokaka.


A STREETCAR NAMED KURT OLSSON

Most trams have their own name, written on their side at the front. The names commemorate living and dead sporting legends, artists, writers, fictional characters and industrial magnates associated with the city.

Just look out the window. They’re rumbling down the tracks everywhere. In this city the blue trams are something to behold. And keep a lookout for… Fancy an old joke? Stockholmer: “Really? You don’t have a subway in Gothenburg?” Gothenburger: “No, in this city we have nothing to hide.” Okay, so a lot of people in Sweden’s second city would have preferred to hide public transport underground, too. There are even Gothenburgers who would prefer buses to take over completely, so that the noisy trams can be retired for good. Just like in many other cities round the world. But you cannot ignore the fact that

in Sweden, trams are associ­ated with Gothenburg. They are a classic symbol of the city – and have been for 132 years. A British company estab­lished Gothenburg Tramway Ltd in 1879. At the start of the 20th century, the city autho­rities took over the business at a cost of £70,000, and ever since the tramlines have been extended further and further in all directions. Each tram covers around 15 million km every year – about 374 times around the globe. The current trams are modern

Italian low-floor designs called Sirio. But during the summer you can also take a ride aboard a veteran tram run by the enthusiasts of the Ringlinien club. For the first 40 years, a tram ride cost just 10 öre. Today a single journey costs 21 kronor and cash is not valid for payment on board. Special cards – valid for 24 or 72 hours– are recommended as the practical and cheaper alternative for tourists in Gothenburg. Or if you are not travelling often, a batch of 5 tickets is a good deal.

The first female tram drivers and conductors went to work in 1960. But the uniform code was strict. No skirt was allowed to be hemmed higher than 42 cm above the ground.

Tio år efter Festen är inget begravt

special offer! Say ”Clarion Post” and get 100 SEK discount on your ticket purchase (Ord. price 350 SEK)

tAKiDA The Burning Heart Tour. Trädgår’n – 18/3 2012 Buy your tickets at: Bengans Skivbutik Bengans Skivbutik Stigbergstorget 1 Östra Hamngatan 46 – 48 414 63 Göteborg 411 09 Göteborg Eventim´s callcenter 0771-651 000

Begravelsen Vinter av Thomas Vinterberg och Mogens Rukov

Pusterviksbiljetter Järntorgsgatan 12 413 01 Göteborg www.kulturbolaget.se

En kärlekshistoria av Jon Fosse

En grym historia om de förödande konsekvenserna av att försöka begrava familjehemligheter.

En man och en kvinna träffas vid en parkbänk. En ovanlig, udda och trevande kärlekshistoria inleds.

Regi: Vibeke Bjelke

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S t o r y: Malin Kiriazidou

Bloggers have more fun... Isabella Löwengrip from Stockholm, better known as Blondinbella, started blogging as a 14 year-old. Seven years later, she has started several compa­ nies, written a book, started a magazine and launched her own app. Now she wants to inspire, and be inspired by, young women entrepreneurs in Gothenburg. “Most of the young women with the best entrepreneurial ideas that I meet are from Gothenburg. They are enormously committed to starting their own companies, realizing their dreams and be­ coming their own boss.” At the same time, Gothenburg is an old shipping and industrial city that has not always made room for younger people, especially women. Isabella Löwengrip believes that it is not easy to be a 20 yearold young woman, daring to believe in her own ideas and efforts. “It needs another young woman to come here and say that it’s possible.” And that’s exactly what’s happened. She noticed that many of her blog readers and magazine buyers lived in the Gothenburg area, and when she started her web store Shop Bella, it appeared that the girls she wanted to recruit lived in Gothenburg. So it was decided. Blondinbella started an office in Gothenburg. But it’s not just the human drive and entrepreneurial spirit that attracted Isabella Löwengrip to the west coast. She says that because Gothenburg is geographically close to both Denmark and Norway, it feels more international than Stockholm. For a store that covers all of Scandinavia, the logistical position is ideal. She plans to start Bella Club as the next step after the web store, which will be a network for young girls who can meet both online and at meetings and seminars, primarily in the Gothenburg area. The idea is to enhance these young girls’ self-confidence and help them believe in their abilities so that they can fulfill their dreams. “My own motivation is to realize my dreams. I would like to transfer the belief that things are possible to other girls. The aim is to take it all the way and start an investment company. I want to help start-up companies, and it will be exciting to see what ideas will be presented to me in Gothenburg.” Isabella Löwengrip is not ready to move to Gothenburg yet. She has a life in Stockholm and studies in Switzerland. “But I like commuting and living out of a suitcase. And I love staying at hotels, which I would love to carry on doing.”


Th e N e w Fac e o f G o t h e n b u r g is a magazine from C l a r i o n H o t e l P o s t in Gothenburg, Sweden, www.clarionpost.se Ch i e f E D ITOR : Anders Westgårdh PUBLI S H ER : Daniel Stenbäck A RT D IRECTOR : Gavin Smart D EPUTY A RT D IRECTOR : Per Tannergård S TA F F MEMBER S : Linda Genborg, Caroline Hanner, Ben Kendall, Malin Kiriazidou, Johan P.S. Lindgren, Klara Sandsjö, Ola Tedin, Peter Wennö, Alice Westgårdh, Adam Wladis PICTURE E D ITOR : Camilla Lidén S TA F F P H OTOGR A P H ER : Thomas Johansson TR A N S L ATOR : John Cannon PRINTE D BY: Göteborgstryckeriet PA PER : Arctic Volume HighWhite 100 g/m 2 and 200 g/m 2 by Arctic Paper F OR A D V ERTI S EMENT EN Q UIRIE S : +46.31.108570 A D D RE S S : Welcom, Götgatan 16, S-41105 GOTHENBURG, +46.31.108570, newface@welcom.se © 2 0 12 W e l c o m . All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced in any form without prior permission of Welcom.

Where opinion is expressed it is that of the editorial staff and does not necessarily coincide with the views of Clarion Hotel Post. All information in this magazine is verified to the best of the author’s and the publisher’s ability.

The New Face Of Gothenburg  

Welcome to Gothenburg and the Clarion Hotel Post. In this magazine we’ve tried to capture the special spirit of a city in transition – from...

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