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Patrice Millet

Homegrown Hero Einstein Albert

From Mariani to 5th Avenue Haiti Historical Monuments listed on the 2012 WMF Watch

Editor’s Note Dear Readers,

As we approach the holiday season, it’s time to start thinking about the Thanksgiving menu. Will it be traditional or will we innovate and create new traditions. I love turkey. No, please understand. I love the bird so much that I can actually eat it from Thanksgiving Day until Christmas and devour the Christmas turkey as though I had not eaten one in years. Needless to say, the famous (or infamous) bird will not be omitted from my Thanksgiving menu this year. I’ve even asked a friend of mine who is a chef to come up with my Haitian Thanksgiving menu, which will become my new holiday tradition. The one dish I will miss, however, is collard greens with smoked turkey neck bones. Mmm how succulent! While you are in Haiti how will You Haitianize your Thanksgiving meal? Enough with food already! Let me be the first to welcome you to our slice of the world. This third issue of Magic Haiti is full of hope and inspiring stories that warm the soul and affirm what I truly believe: that change is coming and that each of us has the ability to bring about that change. As you flip through these pages, you will learn that the World Monuments Fund (WMF) selected three Haitian cultural sites/artifacts to be part of its 2012 watch list. As you can imagine we are very proud and full of optimism for the renovation and maintenance of these cultural icons. If you are in Haiti for more than a week, I recommend that you visit and learn about these three places/artifacts and immerse yourself in our culture. You will meet an incredible man, a hero who has dared to move forward in unbearable times and who has dedicated his life to inspiring and bringing hope to disadvantaged youth. So compelling is his story, that he is one of the 10 CNN Heroes finalists. We should all learn from him and truly appreciate the value of “volunteerism” and get involved. The goal of the magazine is to promote local tourism by encouraging foreign professionals residing in Haïti for whatever length of time, Haitians living in the Diaspora visiting family and friends, as well as locals, to explore and discover the depth and breadth of Haïti. Our country is rich in culture and more specifically the arts. I implore you to pay close attention to the myriad of talented local artists and last month at Artisanat en Fête, we were all blown away. Admittedly, Haïti may not be the island that comes to mind when planning a magical Caribbean getaway for rest and relaxation or a vacation, but reconsider and you will be pleasantly surprised. By the way, get a jump start on your holiday shopping and take home a piece of Haiti. I encourage you to simply Discover Haïti and experience the Magic!

Roxane Kerby





Escapade The Visa Lodge, an island of comfort

Spotlight 12 22 21 30 26 34

Patrice Millet

12 3 4 18 6 32 9

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Patrice Millet : Homegrown Hero Haiti’s Historical Monuments

Why Haiti ? Here to Stay: Jean Paul Roy

On the Rise El Rancho Hotel : A Renaissance

Words in Print Bernard Diederich : Reflections of an Adventurer

Memorable Events Artisanat en fête : What talent !

Executive Editor Roxane Kerby 509 3492 2289 Copy Editors Nastasia Boulos Kristina Delatour Contributors Maureen Boyer Sherri Casting Farah Doura Rachele Viard Kassandra Elizée

Champagne presents ASEA

Graphic Designers Rody Victor Clarens Courtois


Senior Photographer Frederick Alexis

From Mariani to 5th Avenue Romens Vertus : When Oil drums Become Works of Art

Lamanjay Quartier Latin : “Beyond a Restaurant” Le Florville : Dining with a View

Postcard in motion Seguin

Photographers Homere Cardichon Printed by

L’ Imprimeur SA

Publisher Le Nouvelliste Advertising

+509 2816-0224 / 2941-4646

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Champagne presents

By Roxane Kerby


ashionistas, you have arrived just in time. On November 12th one of Haiti’s finest retailers, Champagne, will present their annual Fashion Show. The exciting event will take place at the lush setting of the Palms in PétionVille. Titled “Asea” this year, it will showcase some of Champagne’s most stunning lines. “We are extremely ecstatic to feature some of the hottest international designers such as Monique Lhuillier, Marchesa, Nicole Miller, and Tadashi Shoji just to name a few” says Katherine Behrmann, one of the owners. Thirty striking models will grace the high energy runway donning couture apparel, from evening dresses to resort and swimwear and everything in between.

You are sure to find the dream attire to ring in the New Year or that sexy bathing suit that will turn heads at the beach. Beautiful models, clothes, accessories and the hot musical backdrop are sure to electrify the crowd. And what would a fashion show be without cocktails? Since the show is celebrating all things Asian, one will find hors d’oeuvres such as sushi

and eggrolls that will tantalize palates along with a myriad of drinks to quench your thirst. “Although Haiti is not one of the fashion Mecca’s of the world, here we do have a community of intelligent and sophisticated individuals who know and understand quality and have an appreciation for international design” adds Behrmann.

Champagne’s last show Arabica was the toast of the town. One of the models states enthusiastically “although the Arabica show was sensational, this year’s show is sure to top it. We are all very proud to be a part of the catwalk and encourage each and every one to attend and experience Asea.” Fashionistas, you love clothing, accessories and as you know, shoes can either make or break an outfit. On November 12th dress for the occasion and head over to the Palms to kick back and let your eyes feast on what is sure to be a fantastic fashion show. Fashionistas “rendezvous” at the Palms. To purchase tickets or for more information call Champagne at 2-947-4007. NOVEMBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 3


From Mariani th to 5 Avenue I By Maureen Boyer

n the residential neighborhood of Mariani, on the southern edge of Port-au-Prince, you’ll find the workshop of one of the most revered artisans on the island of Haiti. The street to get there is a beaten down rock path lined with gated walls and trees perching from their respective yards, and all you can hear are the sounds of young men gossiping and the low buzzing of a generator. As you reach your destination, a friendly round face with a determined walk comes to greet you; this is Einstein Albert. Albert, 41, is a Haitian wood craftsman and designer, whose hand-made pieces are sold all over the world. A brilliant artist, but also a natural businessman, Albert has turned a small workshop into a profitable business producing, selling, and exporting Haitian handicraft on a relatively large scale. The design, the usability and the environmentally conscious factor of his work make him a leader in the wave of quality craftsmanship coming out of Haiti. Albert inherited the workshop from his father, an American of Jamaican descent who emigrated from the United States to Haiti in 1942. “My father was the first black person to have studied at the Julliard School of the Arts in New York,” Albert explains. “Around that time the US Embassy brought in talented people to


encourage cultural innovations in Haiti. My father originally came to play the violin and he noticed that there were no artisan-made tables and kitchen accessories.” Soon after, his father settled in Haiti and started this wood craft workshop. Having always been involved in his father’s work as child, it was only natural that Albert began taking over the business in 1994. He now employs thirty-five people, all of which go through a rigorous two-week training. He has twentyfive contractors and indirectly supports ninety people’s livelihood. Eighty percent of his staff is women. With a talent for design and a degree in Management, Albert invests heavily in research and development, keeps his ears attuned to the global market and constantly updates his designs. “We always understood that there are 3 elements that are fundamental to success: quality, price and service,” he says. All different types of bowls and plates, of all shapes and sizes, either dark stained or rustic can be found in his workshop. Though there currently are over 146 models to choose from, each piece is carefully handmade with attention to detail. The slick, modern, and original designs have earned him loyal clients like Donna Karan, Macy’s, Ralph Lauren, Sundance Catalog, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales and Saks Fifth Avenue. Aid to Artisans, the US Embassy, the ClintonBush Haiti Fund as well

as the current Haitian government, are amongst those who have supported Albert’s work through grants. He also had the chance to work with one of the most recognizable names in recent history, Princess Diana. “She was very specific about her design,” he recalls. “I assumed that she was also a designer. It was not until I read her business card that I realized it was Lady Di” he states with pride. To this day, this is the design that is most in demand.

When his father first started the workshop, he used wood from the calabash tree as material. But in 1971, they switched to the Obeche tree as it is fast growing and cannot be used to make charcoal. To compete in the global market, Albert realized that he would have to grow his own Obeche trees to use as material. He received a grant from a retail store in California and used it to buy land in order to plant these trees. He now owns forests in La Gonave, Nippes and Aquin. In addition, Albert, who is also the General Secretary for the Special Olympics, is creating a program in which he will employ a dozen of people with intellectual disabilities to make original pieces for Macy’s. This successful businessman and artisan believes that Haiti’s image can be revamped through the quality of art coming out of the country alone. “We can create a village of artisans with all the types of art that we have in Haiti. Haitian art can change the image of Haiti” he firmly states. Einstein Albert currently lives in Port-au-Prince; he is married and has 3 daughters whom he hopes will some day take over his workshop. He will soon be featured in the Martha Stewart magazine. You can find Albert’s original pieces on the Internet, at 10,000 Village, Macy’s internationally and Kay Atizan locally.



Quartier Latin “Beyond a Restaurant”

If you are looking for a dining experience that goes beyond your taste buds, then Quartier Latin is the place for you. Located in a charming old house in Pétion-Ville, the restaurant offers a hospitable and fun atmosphere, blending good food and great entertainment. By Sherri Casting “We’re beyond a restaurant,” says Miriam Padberg, daughter of the owner and current manager. “Quartier Latin is a cultural center. That’s why we enjoy doing a lot of different things.” Amongst these is a variety of musical events, which take place right in the outdoor dining area. Thursday 6 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2011

nights, for example, are popular at Quartier Latin: as you enjoy your meal to the beat of Latin sounds played by a Cuban-Haitian band, the sultry rhythm is sure to lift you off your seat. On Wednesday nights, relax with some live Rhythm and Blues. And if you prefer a more upbeat vibe for the weekend, head over there on Saturdays for some jazz music.

The menu is as wide-ranging as the entertainment. “We have 3 different kitchens,” says Ms. Padberg. “Our main kitchen serves the general brasserie type of comfort food. In the pasta kitchen, we make our own pasta fresh daily, like fettuccini and ravioli. And pizza is made everyday from scratch in our pizza kitchen.” Homemade bread is served before every dish.

“A lot of our clients find it comforting because whether you come from Europe, Latin America, or the United States, you will find something that you like,” says the proud manager. “We’re trying to bring the whole world to Quartier Latin.” Indeed, there is something for every palate. The Curry Zucchini soup is a favorite, along with the Dutch meatballs. And once a month, on Tuesdays, there is a different buffet, ranging from Indonesian and Thai food to typical Haitian Cuisine. Uniquely decorated in an eclectic and modern fashion, Quartier Latin emanates a completely different vibe at each corner. If you prefer to stay away from the crowd, head over to Le Jardin Parasol, a quiet patio area located in

the front garden. For a more intimate setting, sit by the bar, where the dark wooden chairs and locally made chandeliers give a warm and cozy feeling. People dining alone can join La Chapelle, a community table ornately decorated with a variety of religious icons. As Ms. Padberg puts it, patrons who come by themselves either to eat or to work with a cup of coffee can join the table and “it becomes just a whole mix of different people. It’s very exciting.” She adds, “we offer wifi, and we have people that come here even before we open and don’t mind the floors being mopped while they are sitting and enjoying their coffee. We’re open to everybody and anybody, that’s how we have many

people trickling in and out daily. We never close.” And, as if this restaurant wasn’t unique enough, diners are encouraged to write on the walls. One can be entertained for some time by reading the anecdotes written by previous patrons. “It just came one step at a time. One person wrote on the wall and others followed. It is now our signature piece; I don’t think I could ever paint this place again.

Although some may think of it as messy, I find it cozy,” says Padberg. So either by yourself in a pair of jeans and a T-shirt, or all jazzed up with a loved one, head over to Quartier Latin for good food, music and ambiance. Quartier Latin is located on #10 Rue Goulard, Place Boyer P.V. Open everyday from : 11 a.m. to Midnight NOVEMBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 7

Postcard in motion



ive-thirty pm: flat tire number one. We have been driving for over eight hours now. Kids around us are playing with toys put together with bucket rims and wood, while simultaneously staring at the blans (foreigners) who have made their way up to their part of town. At this point I don’t know when we’ll reach our destination, or even if we’ll be able to change this tire. But way up here in the cool air of the mountains, somewhere between Marigot and Seguin, in the Southeast of Haiti, there is an overpowering sense of calm. On this road that is not more

By Nastasia Boulos

than a path of rocks (some sharp enough to pop a tire), surrounded by fields of grass and large stones, it feels like we’ve taken a step back in time. After about an hour, with the help of a group of men from the surrounding village, we are ready to keep going. We drive at a snail’s pace, praying at every step that we will not lose a second tire. But just as the road gets progressively worse, the views get more and more spectacular. We pass small clusters of houses once in a while, but are for the most part surrounded by open fields and mountains. Climbing up

to 6000’ from sea level, we enter the clouds. The town of Seguin is a beautiful area in the Southeastern part of Haiti. It is home to about 40,000 people, but from the main road it feels deserted. There are two ways to access it. One is to hike five hours up or use ATVs from Kenscoff to Furcy. The other is to drive west of Port-au-Prince and head over the mountain to the town of Jacmel and then east to the town of Marigot, at which point you drive up the mountain to Seguin. A four-wheel drive vehicle (complete with at least one spare tire) is a must.

It’s six-thirty p.m. when we make it to Auberge La Visite, the only lodging place in town. The sun is beginning to set between the trees and the sky is lit up in a mixture of blue, orange, and yellow. It’s dark and chilly out, and the only sounds we hear are those of crickets chirping. Owned by local conservationist Winnie Attie, the Auberge is made of stone with a tin roof and tile floors. It consists of three rooms (each with its own bathroom and two beds), a kitchen, one dining room, and several outdoor porches. Decorated in an eclec-


tic fashion, and lit only by lamps, the house is simple and cozy. We eat on the porch, bundled up in additional layers and sitting around a communal table with the one other group who has made it to this secluded part of the island. Dinner is an array of dishes including lamb, rice and beans, and fresh carrots picked from the garden. As the night gets colder, the stars get brighter, and we spread out to find wood to make a fire in the open air. The hikers retreat to their tents, set up by Mr. Attie for those looking for a true camping experience, and we retreat to our rooms. In broad daylight, we are able to get a better view of the surrounding area. There are many gardens with carrots, beets, cabbage, corn and so forth. These crops are largely carried on women’s heads down to the market in Kenscoff. With a guide provided at the Auberge, we set off to explore further. The Parc National La Visite in the Massif de la Selle is one of Haiti’s national parks. It covers approximately 30 km2 (12 sq mi), consisting mainly of pine forest,


grasslands, and some montane broadleaf forest at an altitude above 1,700 m (5,600 ft). One of the island’s last forests, it was founded in 1983 by a presidential decree signed by none other than former dictator Jean-Claude “Baby Doc” Duvalier. Since its creation, the Parc has been facing constant deforestation. A local NGO, Fondation Seguin, has been working tirelessly to stop this, but the need for a source of income through the exploitation of wood makes it a constant battle. Developing ecotourism could limit this, according to Mr. Attie. On our hike through the forest, I spot yellow, blue, and white flowers, and a few butterflies. And after about forty minutes, we make it to the waterfall at Riviere Blanche, the highest river in altitude in the Caribbean region. On our way back home later, we get our second flat tire of the weekend. Thankfully, we aren’t far, so we walk back to the Auberge to wait

for help sent from Port-auPrince. We sit on the porch, eating spaghetti and drinking rum in the cool mountain air. Around us, a man is feeding horses with carrots picked from the garden, roosters

are walking around fig trees, and the owner’s giant dog is sitting close. I don’t know if we will make it all the way back down, or if we will get stranded again, but for now, it doesn’t seem to matter.

The author and her team did make it back safely to Port-auPrince, and recommends that you hike up from Kenscoff. For anyone interested in visiting Seguin (weak souls need not apply), contact Winthrop Attie at 38510159, or email him at Bring a flashlight, and enjoy the adventure!



By Kassandra Elyzée


s you walk into the front yard of Patrice Millet’s home, you already get a sense of the character of the person you are about to meet. The lush garden and massive trees that are grounded in his yard appear very old and seem to tell a lot about the man in question: a father of two young adults who loves nature, soccer, children but most importantly, his country. When he was just a child, Patrice Millet was bothered by the fact that some of his close friends in his neighborhood, whom he played with on a regular basis, suffered from malnutrition and had to wear shabby clothes. Being a caring and loving person at such a young age, Millet would sometimes sneak food out of his home to give to other children who were less fortunate. The last child of four, Millet grew up in Pétion Ville and was

Patrice M illet

Homegrown Hero raised by both his parents. He had a fulfilling childhood during which he was well taken care of. His mother was a school director and his father, a businessman. 12 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2011

“My passion is and has always been soccer,”Millet explains in a thoughtful demeanor, as if reliving every moment of glory he has had on the field throughout his life. As an adult, even when he was an entrepreneur and owned a hardware store, for fifteen years, Millet made time to coach soccer to children and creating teams that would compete at a local level. That program was then geared towards children who could afford paying fees associated with taking part in such activities. However in 2007, Millet’s life completely changed when he was diagnosed with bone marrow cancer. Affected by a deadly illness, with doctors rendering a dim prognosis about his chances of survival, Millet told himself he had to make the most out of the time he had left on this earth. He gave up his constructions supply business, and got into what he calls ‘‘Education through soccer.’’ Millet created an organization named “Foundation of Our Lady of Perpetual Help’’

(FONDAPS) through which he developed a program geared towards youth between 7 and 16 years of age, who come from some of Port-au-Prince’s poorest slums. To date, his program has touched over a thousand children’s lives. Millet does everything he can for the kids, using both his own money and donations that mainly come from Haitian supporters. Through FONDAPS’ three aspects (soccer, education, and nourishment), he teaches the children about discipline, team spirit and solidarity. He also finances education for some of them and provides them with non-perishable food packages with which they are able to feed themselves and their families. During or after practice, Millet gets to spend time talking to his players about the challenges they face every day

and imparting on them valuable life lessons. When they are on the field with their coach, the children seem to forget all of their worries. They get to smile, laugh, run and have fun. They get to be children. Millet tries to instill selfconfidence in them. He wants them to know that they have the potential to achieve great things and become successful regardless of the socio-economic environment in which they are evolving.

When asking Patrice Millet why he chose to defend the plight of children through soccer, as opposed to any other societal issue Haiti is currently facing, he answers with his lit up round eyes and a smirk on his face ‘‘Because I love children and I love soccer - maybe I get it from my mother, since she has always worked with children.’’ Millet’s favorite places in Haiti are Furcy and Port Salut, two contrasting sceneries, one as stunning and pleasant to discover as the other. Furcy is a mountainous haven, located approximately one hour from Port-au-Prince and mainly composed of wooded areas, vegetation and wildlife. Port Salut, located in the south, is a developing travel destination characterized by its beaches, boutique hotels, fishermen, and exotic landscape. A few months ago, a cousin of Patrice Millet’s who NOVEMBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 13

How to get there

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admired the work he did with Haitian children and wanted him to get worldwide recognition for it, decided to submit his name to CNN Hero in order for him to be considered as a potential candidate for the year 2011. That cousin called Millet one day and announced to him that she had applied for him to become a CNN Hero. Upon accepting to complete a load of paperwork, one day Patrice Millet received a phone call from CNN. The network was announcing to him that after making it to the top 25, he had been voted to the top 10 finalists out of 10 thousands applicants. The next and final step of the contest will take place on December 11th 2011, where Millet will travel to Los Angeles to be a guest on the CNN Heroes show. If he gets enough votes, he may very well become the number one hero of the year. Should that happen, Millet’s foundation will benefit from a $250 thousand dollar prize which he says would greatly benefit the children he works with. ‘‘We have a lot of dreams. We’ve never had a sports center, a soccer field, there is so much we could do for these children with this money,’’

Millet says with a hopeful tone in his voice. He is encouraging Haitians and other supporters of Haiti to help him win by going on the website to vote. A person can vote up to ten times a day, giving him more chances to be selected as the 2011 CNN Hero. Having a conversation with Patrice Millet, you can get a hint of the virtues a man like him must possess to have taken such an initiative in an effort to contribute to the overall development and well being of his people and his country. One can grasp the unconditional devotion that this quiet, easy-going man has to see his foundation grow to its fullest potential. The Foundation of our Lady of Perpetual Help is just a part of a bigger picture. A picture painted in almost every Haitian person’s mind: that of healthy youth, guided by their elders to grow into strong leaders of the country they will inevitably inherit. If his story has moved you as it moved me please vote for Patrice Millet on and/or donate to the FONDAPS Foundation please visit w w w. fo n d a p s. co m .



The Visa Lodge,

an island of comfort By Kassandra Elizée 16 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2011


t is hard to create a cozy and safe atmosphere within a busy industrial neighborhood. But the Visa Lodge hotel, located in the mayhem of Port-au-Prince’s metropolitan area, manages to do just that. Built in the 1990s, the building’s modern look and peach and white color falls in deep contrast with its surroundings. As you walk onto the property, you are immediately greeted and directed by a cordial staff up the stairs to the front desk. It’s hard not to take a quick peek at the pool and exotic Tiki huts

before handling the check-in process with the clerk. Forty-three bungalows, with roofs made out of wood and covered with shingles, feel like small private homes. Each consists of individual air-conditioned rooms and is equipped with unlimited wireless internet access, a television with satellite dish, and the choice of comfortable double or queen size beds. A sliding patio door in the back leads to a beautiful yard with soft green grass and trees, where guests can sit and relax, cut off from the noise of the busy highway located less

than a mile away. It feels like you’ve left the city and come into the countryside. The restaurant, located on a deck over-viewing the pool area, attracts locals as well as foreigners, some staying at the hotel, others taking time away from a nearby workplace to enjoy a nice Mediterranean-with-a-mixof-Creole lunch. On any given day, a buffet including meats, salads and desserts is available. Goat and chicken fondue, fish, steak and the ‘‘seafood carnival’’ are just a few of the clientele’s favorites. The bar, strategically placed across from the pool, offers all types drinks. From the local Prestige beer, sodas, and natural juices, to the widely known alcoholic beverages such as mojitos and rum punch; the

guest will surely find a drink that will quench his thirst. The hotel’s philosophy? “The Client is King.” This most likely explains the clients’ expressed gratitude and desire to come back and re-experience a professional personalized service.

Indeed, since its opening in 2000 by Canadian dentist Michel Carvonis together with other investors, Visa Lodge has provided a comfortable and safe atmosphere for its guests, who come for days, weeks and sometimes for months. Today, it is Mr. Carvonis’ sons, Jean-Michel and

Dimitri, who carry on the legacy of keeping the Visa Lodge alive. One only has to walk around the premises for a few minutes to notice the satisfaction in the hotel guests’ eyes as they eat at the restaurant, sunbathe by the pool and breathe in the fresh air.



Romens Vertus

When Oil Drums Become Works of Art By Sherri Casting



urning oil drums into beautiful – and functional – pieces of art is a common practice within Haiti’s artistic community. In fact, metal sculpting – or fer découpé as it is called here – has become an important part of Haitian artisan culture, and is considered a well-established and respected profession. It was pioneered by blacksmith Georges Liautaud in the 1950s, and has since inspired generations of Haitian artists. Amongst these is Romens Vertus, a prominent Haitian metal craftsman, who has been sculpting for over a de-

cade. Vertus grew up in Croixdes-Bouquets, where the craft originated, and says the town’s creativity and vibrancy played a great role in his desire to work as an artist. He was, at a very young age, attracted to the art of fer découpé. “Every artist is inspired by what is around him,” he says. “I see inspiration everyday, and through my pieces I convey that. When I chisel a Pye Cocoye (coconut tree) for example, I look at it for what it is. It may simply look like an imitation of the tree but to me, it’s a reminder of what God has given us. That is the true inspiration.”

Fer découpé pieces are usually made in a batch. Not all designs take the same amount of time, as some are much more elaborate than others. Natural elements such as trees, flowers, butterflies and the sun are often depicted, but one can also find depictions of the famous Haitian tap-taps or of Voodoo symbols, called lwas. With this in mind, Vertus says he can create about five to six pieces a day. Vertus, who considers himself self-taught in the art, explains the process: the oil drums are cut in half, burnt to remove excess particles and

hammered flat. The artist then traces the design with chalk and eventually chisels the metal into the desired shape. Some choose to maintain the natural rust color, adding just a touch of oil lacquer to complete the piece. Others paint the sculptures, usually using bright colors such as red, blue, and yellow. These metal crafts can be found all along the streets in various parts of Port-au-Prince. Shops and artists abound in the Croix-des-Bouquets area, considered by many to be the capital of the art. Allowing their creators to use both their imagination and resourcefulness, the pieces vary widely in both shape and color. Material that would have been otherwise discarded as garbage is instead transformed into ornate wall decorations, or into more functional pieces, such as wind chimes, small candle and napkin holders, and even chandeliers. The first in his family to take up this craft, Vertus began sculpting in 1997 in the nearby Village Artistique (Artistic Village), where he learned this craft from Wilston Cajuste. He spent a few years honing his skills while working there. He now owns a shop on a busy street in Croix-des-Bouquets where he mentors young artisans to ensure the legacy of this art form. His workshop is a family run business; while he designs, sculpts, and teaches, his wife handles all the administrative tasks. In addition, his work can be found on different websites that support this particular art form. Beyond Borders and Greenheartshop,

members of the Fair Trade Federation, are amongst the organizations that support Vertus’ work. And like many prominent Haitian artists, he participates every year in Artisanat en Fête, a popular art exhibit in Port-au-Prince. These fairs, he says, are “a great opportunity to have my work seen by potential buyers.”

To artists, the art they make is like their child. Their time, dedication and soul are put into their creation. Exposure and success for their work would equal to seeing their child [art] grow. Vertus’ dream is for fer découpé to continue providing a livelihood for many young upcoming artists who have chosen to become metal

craftsmen. “My hope is for better tourism in Haiti, because it would benefit everyone currently living in this country, especially young artists. It would encourage them to continue this art.” Romens Vertus’ shop, called “Welcome to Living Christ”, is located in Croix-des-Bouquets. It is the first shop on Route Noailles.


Why Haiti

Here to Stay : Jean Paul Roy By Nastasia Boulos


ean Paul Roy didn’t want to come to Haiti. The job they offered him was challenging and interesting (he was tasked with helping the Haitian government train and equip their police force, as part of a French-Haitian cooperation program). But Roy had wanted, and expected, to be deployed back to Africa, where he had previously worked for over seven years and where, he says, he felt at home. But eleven years later,

it is Haiti that this Paris-born Frenchman and his wife (who now manage one of Haiti’s oldest and most famous beach hotels, Moulin sur Mer) happily call home. When he first arrived in the country in April of 2000, Roy was not impressed. “There were no lights at the airport,” he says, smiling, “And the man coming to pick us up was late.” But that bad first impression soon changed. “One morning,” Roy recalls, “I opened a window in my house, and I saw a spectacular view of Port-au-Prince, and the sun shining. That’s

when I said to myself “Alright, I think I’m going to like it here.” His wife didn’t feel the same way. “She said, Have you seen the streets? They’re dirty. There are cows, goats, pigs. It’s just not clean. But I said to her, look at the view straight ahead, don’t look below.” During the Roys’ first years in Haiti, the situation was very unstable and tense, so working with the Haitian government and police proved to be a harder task than they had imagined. Nonetheless, Roy stayed at his post for four years, during which he trained a countless number of Haitian police officers and helped to tackle gang violence. “Those were tough years,” he says. But Roy did not just focus on work. “I’m not one of those

people that come to a place to work and just stay at home and don’t want to go visit,” he says. “If I’m in a country, I’m here to discover it, to know the people.” Two weeks after their arrival, they went on a weekend trip to Moulin Sur Mer with some friends. “We enjoyed our time there,” he says. “So we came back a few times.” Then they started exploring further and visiting other parts of the country. “I love all the provinces,” he says. “Each has its own charm. I’ve camped in Foret des Pins, gone on many trips in the South, sometimes living in rustic conditions. But it was great.” Roy says he doesn’t like Port-au-Prince,

because he “thought of what it could have been. It’s sad to see what it has become instead. When you are in the provinces, the people are so kind! It’s incredible. Such hospitality. The people have nothing but they will offer you an orange, a mango. Perhaps it is because I’ve lived in big cities for years, but I love the calm that the provinces offer.” Roy also spent some time working with the UN, helping to integrate their peacekeeping force in Haiti (Minustah). This gave him a chance to often fly above the country in helicopters, allowing him to see Haiti from a different perspective. “What’s impressive about Haiti is that it doesn’t seem like there is one part of the country where there is no one living. Even in mountains that may seem deserted, you notice that there is life, little villages, two or three little houses here or there. And you ask yourself how do these people do? Where do they go? There’s no road and they are so isolated. And yet they still manage to go on living. That’s impressive.” When Roy met Charles Fombrun, the owner of Moulin sur Mer, in 2008, the hotel had been closed for three to four months because of hurricane damage. Fombrun asked for his help rebuilding and reopening. “So I said, why not? It was a great challenge.” Roy and his wife have been managing the hotel since and do not plan on leaving anytime soon. As he sits in his small airconditioned office signing off on hotel purchases or handling cli-

ents’ requests, it is hard to imagine that this man with a friendly round face and welcoming smile has spent a good portion of his life fighting drug trafficking in Africa, dealing with high officials at the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs, or tackling crime and violence in Haiti. But even to this day, aside from his work at the hotel, Roy often conducts training sessions for Haitian policemen across the country, and plans on doing so for a while. The couple is even considering applying for Haitian citizenship. “For practical reasons,” Roy says, but also because “when you live in a country that you love and you decide to stay there, you have to make an effort to become a true citizen of the country, in order to be more involved in the country’s future, to have a say in making things move forward.” Does he think that there is hope that Haiti will get better in the coming years? “I wouldn’t be here if I didn’t,” he says. “That’s also one of the things that has attracted me to Haiti. There is so much to do. You want to do something. In more ‘developed’ countries, there is nothing left to do; it’s quite boring. I’m here to stay.” Roy hopes to someday move to Port-Salut, a city in the South of Haiti. “It’s amazing,” he says. “It has become such a clean city, there’s no trash in the streets, there are no electrical wires hanging anywhere, there are tons of supermarkets, nice hotels. There’s even a walkway along the beach. Can you imagine? This is proof that when you want to do something, you can.”

Save more, do more




he World Monuments Fund (WMF) announced on October 5th, 2011, the selection of three Haitian cultural artifacts to be part of WMF’s list of cultural artifacts for its 2012 edition. Those architectural heritages are the city of Jacmel’s Historical Centre, Port-auPrince’s Gingerbread House Collection and the Sans-Souci Palace in Milot. This year the list encompasses 67 threatened cultural heritage sites from different countries around the world and represents various historical times. The monuments selected range from religious buildings and cemeteries to works of art and archeological relics. They include Tiebele’s Royal Court in Burkina Faso,

Charleston, South Carolina’s Urban Center in the United States and the Floating Fishing Villages of Ha-Long Bay in Vietnam. WMF is a non-profit organization based in New York whose mission is to save some of the world’s most valuable monuments and sites. Every two years, since 1996, the World Monument Fund creates a list of sites to be prioritized. The criteria to make it on the “World Monuments Watch List” are the importance of the cultural artifact, its viability and its historical relevance. Making it on the watch list is very competitive. The Watch list encourages local and international institutions to engage in philanthropy by playing a part in saving the cultural artifacts

Haiti’s Historical Monuments 22 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2011

featured on the Watch List. The World Monuments Watch List is a call to action in order to protect those cultural sites that are in danger. The selection of Jacmel’s Historical Centre, Port-auPrince’s Gingerbread Houses Collection and the SansSouci Palace by WMF should awaken a sense of urgency to preserve these artifacts by not only finding necessary funding for concrete actions but by demanding from the government a plan that will safeguard those monuments through adequate legislation.

selected for the ch t WMF W2a 201

The National Patrimonial Safeguard Institute (ISPAN) made an inventory of 103 ancient houses, in Jacmel’s Historical Center, that were damaged in the 2010 earthquake. Jacmel was one of the historical coffee cities in Independent America that developed at an incredibly rapid rate, due to the rising prices of coffee in Europe. The international trade links existing between the old colonizers and Haitians

The Watch List in Haiti

The selection of Haitian monuments by the WMF’s Watch List constitutes for us Haitians an important recognition towards all of humanity, for the value given to our cultural patrimonial. That invalu-

facilitated this growth and catapulted Haiti into the industrial era. Most of the architectural heritage in Jacmel was built between 1860 and 1930, a period that saw the rebirth of the city characterized by its unity and important architectural development. That is how Jacmel’s Historical Center earned a place on UNESCO’s World Patrimonial List. Following the January 12, 2010 earthquake, a group of ancient houses owners in Jacmel’s Historical Center formed an association called “Historical Houses of Jacmel.” Their objective is to promote and defend Jacmel’s heritage. It is that association’s initiative and hard work that brought it to the attention of the WMF and earned it a spot on their 2012 Watch List.

able recognition strengthens the process of our integration into the 20th century. When speaking of Haiti’s reconstruction after the numerous natural disasters that afflicted the country during

Port-au-Prince’s Gingerbread Houses The gingerbread houses in Port-au-Prince were also badly damaged in the 2010 earthquake. The considerable losses resulting from the disaster inspired the Fondasyon Konesans ak Libete (FOKAL) -Knowledge and Liberty Foundation- to engage in a battle to preserve this invaluable collection. In the beginning of the second part of the 19th century Haiti adopted European literature, music and architecture. Local architects, inspired by Europe’s eclectic structural designs, readapted it to their own liking, giving birth to the so-called “gingerbread houses.” It was also during that period that numerous buildings and elements characterizing European architecture, notably their iron structure, were brought from France and Belgium to Haiti

the past decade - major floods, hurricanes, earthquake - the role of cultural patrimonial becomes priceless in the concerted efforts to ensure a better economic and ecological development of the country.

Photo: Bernard Millet

Jacmel’s Historical Center


Haiti’s cities became very fashionable and lead to the creation of an impressive collection of brilliantly designed edifices which later became the staple image of traditional Haitian architecture. Those buildings are distinguished by wooded panes, bricks, and later, concrete structures. The buildings are generally two- or three-storied houses, and contain large and spacious balconies on which large Persian doors open leading to a spacious inside. The outside usually has railings and columns; the inside is typically made of wood. The houses are designed in such a way that the rooms are placed one next to the other in a row. For the most part the roofs are covered with wavy aluminum sheeting or, on rare occasions, fibrocement tiles. The buildings’ facades are ornamented with skylights and weather vanes. FOKAL’s initiative to make an inventory of the gingerbread houses allowed for a list of 250 homes dating from the 19th century to the 20th century. They were compiled in an important report published by the WMF and can now serve as a historic reference.

Photo: Daniel Elie / ISPAN

Erected at the bottom of the magnificent Chain of Bonnet-à-L’Évêque, it sits in the middle of a grandiose site covered with abundant vegetation. King Henry the First’s kingdom controlled most of the northern part of the newly independent territory of Haiti. The palace was surrounded by all of the institutions required for a state to function, such as the State Council, Ministries,

Mint Bureau, Arsenal Library, dignitaries’ secondary residences as well as a hospital, penitentiary, stables, and a melting factory. The construction of that immense royal palace began in 1810 and was completed by 1813. It was pillaged after King Henry the First’s death in 1820. The 1842 earthquake which hit the northern coast of Haiti also contributed to

the destruction of this historic creation, which, although it underwent some serious attrition through the years, is still a majestic relic. UNESCO classified The Sans Souci Palace, the Henry Citadel and Ramier’s fortified site as a national historical park in 1982. Courtesy of Bulletin de L’ISPAN, numéro spécial du 5 octobre 2011

The Sans Souci Palace King Henry the First built the Sans Souci Palace in Milot, a modest rural town some 20 kilometers south of Cap Haitian. The Sans Souci Palace is a large architectural ensemble, a Royal residence inhabited by the most essential administrative staff of the monarchies who held power following Haiti’s Independence in 1804. 24 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2011 Photo: Daniel Elie / ISPAN


Words in Print

Bernard Diederich

Reflections of an Adventurer 26 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2011

By Roxane Kerby


enowned writer Bernard Diederich, considered by many to be an expert on Caribbean culture, politics and history has been a staunch promoter of Haiti for over 60 years. During my brief time with him, I had the opportunity to get to know the man behind the words that I read and reread years ago. Diederich is a charismatic, strong, independent, and unconventional individual whose passion and love for the country comes through again and again. Born in New Zealand, this prolific writer left his homeland at the tender age of 16 against his parents’ wishes. In a quest to discover the world, he first served as a Cabin Boy on the majestic Pamir. Little did he know, his adventures would one day lead him to his adopted homeland of Haiti.

He enlisted in the US Merchant Marines and served in the Pacific Theatre during World War II. In 1949, his love of the high seas, of writing and of exploration sent him sailing to the South Pacific from Nova Scotia. During

this voyage with two war time companions on the “Culver,” he encountered several difficulties. Of particular interest, when they anchored in Diner Key, Miami floating along next to all the other yachts (all painted white with

white sails), the green Culver with red sails drew lots of attention and rumors abound. One of Diederich’s companions had to give an interview to the Miami News to explain that they were not


smuggling Chinese immigrants but instead were headed to the South Pacific to visually document what became of the United States bases, which he had visited during the war. Following the interview they were approached and asked to deliver a large cargo to a certain Mr. Silvera at the El Rancho Hotel in Haiti for a moderate sum. Silvera needed the cargo immediately. After ensuring that the package did not contain any illegal items, they accepted and set sail for Haiti. Thus began Diederich’s attachment to our tiny island nation. Diederich recounts that his precious Zeiss Icon camera (given to him by a Life Magazine journalist) was stolen among other belongings by thieves who snuck aboard the Culver while they were docked in Haiti. After another ransack the following night, though both incidents were minor, he was shaken and troubled. They, however, led him to ponder about life,


his in particular. He did not want to return to New Zealand for, despite its beauty, it lacked excitement. Europe was not an option either, and so on December 23rd Diederich decided to remain in Haiti, hopeful that he’d somehow find his camera. His first night on Haitian soil is in a gingerbread style boarding house. He obtains his first job as “Maitre d’of Booze” at the Casino International. “Haitians were most generous and really went out of their way to help me adapt. After a while I was irreversibly captivated by this land though not sure that I would remain” says Diederich. With papers not in order, Diederich is not given the choice but instead is deported. He travels to Jamaica to obtain a Haitian visa and within a week he returns to the land and the people he finds so fascinating. Upon his return he is introduced to Mr. Benson, an American who wanted to publish a newspaper in Eng-

lish and needed his assistance. More in line with his objectives, Diederich agrees and the Port-au-Prince Times becomes a reality and is printed in the offices of Le Matin, a local newspaper. This association lasts only a few months. In September 1950 he launches the weekly Haiti Sun which reported for 13 years on all things Haitian, in offbeat stories that included the wedding of the week, life of a street merchant, beach comber, baby of the week, and a creole column, just to name a few. Popular American columnist Westbrook Pegler referred to the Haiti Sun as the Mark Twain of the Caribbean. “Back then things were different” he says, “Port-au-Prince in the 1950s was a small town

with a population of about 200,000. After the inauguration of the “Bicentenaire” tourism built up and Port-au-Prince was the real “in” place to go. Tourism was also different then, the people who came on boats could walk to the Iron Market to

shop, there were many shops in the area that they could patronize prior to returning aboard the vessels that brought them to this proud island.” “For those who arrived by air and stayed in hotels they were able to go on tours and

excursions to Kenscoff, attend a voodoo ceremony in Bel Air, and visit cities such as Jacmel. There were more things to do back then. Lots of famous writers, actors and actresses came to Haiti. It was truly enchanting back then. It was the Golden Age” states Diederich in a pensive demeanor. This tassot dinde (marinated fried turkey chunks) loving man who also appreciates griyo (fried pork) believes that Haiti has a lot of potential and hopes that the right kind of tourism reemerges with panache. “One of the things in Haiti’s favor, and I covered the whole Caribbean during my day, is the food. It’s the best food that you can find in the Caribbean.” He adds, “I never found my camera, but I found Haiti.”


On the Rise

El Rancho Hotel

A Renaissance


The overall décor will combine modern comfort and simplicity with touches of authentic indigenous art evocative of the location, and the property’s landscape will be developed to create a lush tropical environment.


n March 16, 1950, Albert Silvéra, a world known sports and prestigious car collector, inaugurated El Rancho Hotel. The Mediterranean/Baroque style property was the private residence of Mr. Silvéra, a celebrity in Haitian society, who

Scheduled to reopen in the spring of 2012, the renovated El Rancho will be an upscale business-oriented hotel with 89 guestrooms

transformed it into a 14 roomhotel to welcome international dignitaries invited by Haitian President Dumarsais Estimé for the festivities commemorating Haiti’s Bicentennial Anniversary. Nestled in the hills of PétionVille, the hotel has welcomed a string of celebrities and dignitaries, including Richard Burton, Andre Malraux, Conrad Hilton, Jimmy Carter, and Dominican President Leonel Fernández, amongst others. Long considered the best hotel by international visitors, El Rancho also enjoyed the patronage of the affluent local community, particularly for social events during weekends and holidays. Surrounded by wooded areas with views of nearby hillsides, the site encompasses approximately 6.6 acres (26,685 square meters) of land. Its secluded secure location, surrounded by lush vegetation tucked away from the town’s activities is one of the property’s attractions. The Dominican Embassy, the Hotel Villa Creole, private residences and undeveloped forested land surround the hotel. Albert Silvéra passed away in 1989 and the hotel was leased. Mr. Silvéra’s heirs repossessed the hotel in 1991 and added 50 more guestrooms, although the construction was not completed until 2008. In recent years, due to lack of capital

investment in the physical facilities and on-going maintenance, the property had deteriorated significantly and was no longer considered the leading hotel in the market. In September of 2009, the Societé Immobiliere et Financiere S.A. (a group of local investors), led by businessman Reginald Boulos, purchased El Rancho, intent on bringing the hotel back to its former glory days. Scheduled to reopen in the spring of 2012, the renovated El Rancho will be an upscale business-oriented hotel with 89 guestrooms, supporting facilities and amenities. It is being built in accordance with international anti-seismic codes and each floor will feature a handicap accessible room. The Hotel’s food and beverage facilities are planned to include a three-meal restaurant and bar with 75 seats featuring covered and outdoor terrace dining by the pool, a 50-seat specialty restaurant and bar with indoor and terrace seating, and a lobby lounge and bar. The planned food and beverage facilities should provide an attractive dining and entertainment experience for hotel guests as well as local clientele for weekend “getaways” as well as special social and holiday events. The design of the existing hotel structures will be preserved, enhanced and mod-

ernized to best serve today’s international business and leisure traveler. It will focus on providing an upscale travel experience, featuring contemporary and efficient interior design, public workspaces, complimentary internet, onsite 24-hour food and beverage options, meeting venues, exercise facilities, and recreational amenities. The lobby area in the new El Rancho will feature a business center. The nearby casino will continue to operate under independent management and with a separate entrance. Phase two of the project, which is scheduled to start right after the opening, will include 50 additional rooms, a convention center, a parking tower, and a commercial outlet. The owners are also envisioning the inclusion of separate extendedstay units and rental apartment units. The overall décor will combine modern comfort and simplicity with touches of authentic indigenous art evocative of the location, and the property’s landscape will be developed to create a lush tropical environment. Existing artwork and memorabilia preserved by the heirs of Mr. Silvera will be used as the hotel is restored. As it is redeveloped into a modern and functional hotel facility, the charm and character of the old El Rancho will be preserved. NOVEMBER 2011 MAGIC HAITI 31


Le Florville

Dining with a View By Rachele Viard


ocated about 10 kilometers southeast of Portau-Prince, the town of Kenscoff is rich in vegetation and its weekly market is very popular. This quiet and small town with its cool temperature becomes alive and vibrant on weekends due to the hotels and restaurants in the area. One such establishment is Le Florville, a restaurant rich in tradition which has been oper-


ated by three generations of Florvilles. It offers its patrons a warm and inviting setting to relax and enjoy authentic Creole cuisine. With a lodge like feel, the Florville has a cozy and beautiful dining area with wooden tables and chairs and warm colors that add to its charm and warmth. What is most impressive about the dining area are the large windows at the far end that allow for ample natural light to flow in and affords patrons a breathtaking

view of the towns between Port-au-Prince and Kenscoff. Upon my arrival at Le Florville I immediately felt as if I was walking into my grandmother’s dining room, though admittedly on a larger scale. One would suppose that’s the feeling owner Mireille Florville wanted to keep when she took over her grandfather’s business in 1980. The cuisine is known for giving a more upscale and gourmet makeover to local Haitian dishes. Many have made

Le Florville their go-to spot on Sundays for the buffet lunch and salad bar, which comprises favorites such as “mais moulin made with djon-djon” (corn meal made with dried mushrooms), rice and beans, and various types of salads. The menu has diverse options for you to feast from including steaks in black pepper sauce, prawns in Creole sauce, grilled lobster as well as kabrit (goat). Once you have completed your main course, indulge in des-

serts such as flan, marquise au chocolat or pain patate (sweet potato pudding). In addition, on Sundays ,they feature a local

troubadour band which plays music during the afternoon adding a special touch to the usual ambiance.

Spending time together and eating with family or with dear friends is very much part of the Haitian culture, a tradition

that Le Florville keeps alive in its own special way. Sundays aren’t the only time that you can expect something out of the ordinary at Le Florville. From time to time it has been known to hold “bals” (parties with live bands) on the property which has a beautiful garden. If you happen to catch a bal or have a late night with friends, no need to worry about driving home as Le Florville has six guest rooms on the property where you can comfortably lay your head for the night or weekend. For those who really want to take in a different side of Haiti outside of Port-au-Prince and enjoy a tasty and satisfying meal in a warm family friendly environment, Le Florville should be at the top of your list.


Memorable Events

What Talent ! By Roxane Kerby


rtisanat en Fête was spectacular. Haitian arts and crafts are known the world over and on October 22nd and 23rd their richness was in full


Gary Pierre Charles

Georges Laratte

display at the Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre. The cultural highlight of autumn in Haiti, Artisanat en Fête is an annual fair that features a diverse array of arts and crafts. With over 200 artists and craftsmen from around the

country, the Parc Historique de la Canne à Sucre was abuzz with diverse handmade goods ranging from jewelry to wood carved and fer découpé furniture, embroidered sheets, ceramic pieces, paintings, paper mâché decorations, sandals,

Shelley Cley “The Apparent Project”

Michel Chataigne

Atelier Cala

Paper mâché mask

clothing, and much more. To view all of these amazing works of art and to take in their beauty, one had to spend hours if not the entire day. In addition there was great Haitian cuisine, scenery and music to round out the experience. There were so many impressive pieces and, as you can imagine, artists with quite unique and interesting personalities. Willy Raymond is

one of these individuals that stands out. When we approached his booth, he was lounging on a beautiful intricate hand-carved wooden chaise. When asked who the artist was, he slowly stood and said “It’s me.” With great pride he began to tell us about this art form, and explained the distinctiveness of his pieces, encouraging us to visit his workshop. All the while, like

many Haitians, he spoke with gestures and a warmhearted smile in his eyes. There was also Michel Chataigne, an established designer whose flamboyant personality is reflected in all of his clothing and luggage lines. His “Bon Voyage” travel bags were striking and elegantly made with bold colors and patterns. He uses 100 percent cotton fur-

niture fabric with sisal. He says that he wanted to turn towards nature and use the fiber of our plants to create this stunning line. Ms. Émelie Prophète-Milcè mentioned that Chataigne has the ability to create things that do not look like what already exists and that his work celebrates extravagance in the most positive and subversive use of the term.


Agence Citadelle Air Caraïbes Air France Air Transat / Hamaserco S.A. Aldy Hôtel Berling S.A. Brasserie La Couronne Cap Lamandou Hôtel Carabimmo S.A. (Best Western) Chatelain Tours Club Indigo

Coconut Villa Hôtel Coles Distributions S.A.(CODISA) Cormier Plage Delta Airlines Encocha S.A. Fondation Françoise Canez Auguste Galerie Marassa Galerie Monnin Habitation Hatt Hôtel El Rancho Hôtel Ibo Lélé

Hôtel Karibe Hôtel Le Jardin Hôtel Le Xaragua Hôtel Villa Ban-Yen Hôtel Villa Créole Idéal Villa Hôtel Imprimerie Henri Deschamps Insel Air Iphasa S.A. Kaliko Beach Kinam Hôtel La Réserve Restaurant

Le Montcel Le Plaza Hôtel Le Ritz Les 3 Decks Les Cascades Fusion Montana Hôtel Mosaïques Gardere Moulin sur mer Nabatec S.A. Oasis Hôtel Palm Residence Prophasa

Prince Hôtel Rhum Barbancourt SirepTours Socitété Labadie Nord (SOLANO) Sogecarte The Lodge Top Line Uniglobe S.A. Visa Lodge Voyages Lumière Wahoo Bay Beach


One of the most innovative collections was that of Shelley Cley “The Apparent Project.” Apart from the beauty and quality of the jewelry displayed, they were extraordinary because they were made out of recyclable materials. The social impact of the collection is remarkable and merits much applause. Five years ago the organizers of Artisanat en Fête set a lofty goal which they have successfully attained: the venue was at times busting from its seams. Attracting thousands, this family friendly extravaganza offered patrons the opportunity to purchase items to accessorize their homes and offices and the ability to purchase holiday gifts for 36 MAGIC HAITI NOVEMBER 2011

the very lucky individuals on their lists. But more importantly, it afforded them the opportunity to meet and interact with the talented craftsmen.

Water Supply Solutions

Groundwater Sourcing & Geophysics

Well Drilling & Well Testing

Satellite Remote Sensing & Mapping We will have electromagnetic geophysical equipment in Haiti for 10-months. The equipment is used for groundwater exploration and well siting. Take advantage of the unique opportunity to avoid expensive mobilization costs.

James K. Adamson, PG

Michel Jean-Baptiste

Northwater International

Foratech Environnement

Tel USA: 630.318.0010

Tel Haiti: 2813.1235

Tel Haiti: 3663.6913

Hydrogeology & Water Engineering Photo credits: Northwater, V3, Foratech, charity:water


Kreyol Flair


Chef Stephan

Paella Kreyol Thanksgiving is a major holiday in the US. It is a time of celebration where families gather around the dinner table to give thanks for all their blessings. The following is a dish that can definitely Haitianize your Thanksgiving meal. I am happy to share this recipe with you and hope that your Thanksgiving will be a little brighter with my Paella Kreyol. This Dish is even better when using local Haitian Rice (Sheila), however you can substitute Long grain rice. You can prepare this dish for 25 or 50.


1 hour and 30 Minutes Prep Time: 20-30 Minutes Cooking time: 45 Minutes to 1 hour YIELD: 25 servings


5 cups of Haitian or long grain rice 1 lb of Djondjon (Haitian Black Mushroom) cleaned 7.5 cups of chicken stock 10 Cyrik's or Blue Crab 1 lb. of cleaned Shrimps (16/20 ) 1 lbs. of Calamari


2 lbs. of Conch (boiled) 2 cups of Tritri or Dried Shrimp 5-10 medium size lobster tails 2 cans of green peas 2 red bell peppers 3 green bell peppers 1 yellow bell pepper 3 medium size onions 1 cup of garlic sliced 1 bunch of thyme 2 scotch bonnet peppers (Piment Bouk) 2 Green Onions 1.5 cups of olive oil Salt & Pepper to taste or Adobo seasoning (no MSG)


In a food processor, put 1 onion, green onions, 1 scotch bonnet pepper, 1 green pepper, garlic and 1/2 cup of olive oil and make a paste. This will be the base for your rice. In Spanish it’s called "Sofrito." Heat up a large rice pan until hot than add 1/2 cup of olive oil then add part of your paste in the hot pan to start sautéing. Cut the other onions and green peppers lengthwise (Julienne) and sauté until onions are translucent. Add your rice and sauté as well for 5 minutes. In a separate sauce pan, heat your chicken stock and add the cleaned "DjonDjon" to the stock and let simmer for 15 minutes, drain the

darkened water and keep to cook the rice. Once your rice has been cooking for 10 minutes, add your stock and the crab together and let cook on medium heat until water starts to evaporate. In a sauté pan, add a little bit of olive oil and the rest of paste, season with the adobo or just salt and pepper for extra flavor. Add the cooked conch, calamari, shrimps and lobsters (still in their shell) and cook for just a few minutes, because it’s going to continue cooking when you add it to the rice, this process is done strictly for flavoring and helping the cooking process. Once the water has almost evaporated from the rice, stir one time and lay all of the seafood on top of the rice, add the other Scotch bonnet pepper whole and cover and let cook over low heat for 30-45 minutes. Before Serving, take the hot pepper out and stir the rice and the seafood as to incorporate all of the seafood into the rice and serve in a Paella pan. To finish the plate, sauté the rest of the peppers lengthwise for a few seconds and the sweet peas. Pull the Crabs to the top for presentation and nicely decorate with the peppers and peas.

restaurants Acajou Restaurant & Bar

Café de l'Europe

Anba Tonèl, Bar & Grill

Chez Wou

Haitian/international Cuisine Hôtel Montana Rue Frank Cardozo, Bourdon 2940 0585 / 3880 6610 Haitian Cuisine Angle des Rues Clerveaux et Villate. PV 3403 0822

French Cuisine 17. Rue Mangonès. Berthé. PV 3 406 8525 / 3 464 0468 / 3 702 5591 Chinese Place Boyer, PV 3777 6625 / 3777 6626

Chicken Fiesta

Emina's Garden

Kay Atizan



Fior Di Latte

La Coquille

Italian Cuisine 36, Rue Magny, PV 3747 1177 / 2816 2005 Itilian Cuisine 26, Rue Louverture, PV 2257 8433

Haitian Cuisine 6, Rue Ogé. PV 2 940 0041

American and Chinese Cuisine 124. Rue Panaméricaine. PV 2813 9866

Italian Cuisine Choucoune Plaza, Angle des Rues Lamarre et Chavannes, PV 2813 0445



il Vigneto

Assiette Créole

Haitian Cuisine 254. avenue John Brown. Lalue 2813 1912


Haitian Cuisine 38. Rue Darguin. PV 3515 6262 / 3554 0027

Café Com' Ça

Fusion Complexe Promenade. Angles Rues Grégoire et Moïse, PV 2943 20.4 / 3444 0607

Haitian Cuisine Shodecosa, 5 Rue des NÎmes 3558 8387

Coin des Artistes

Haitian Cuisine 59, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3747 1163

Domino's Pizza

Fast Food 91, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2514 7574 / 2813 1446 2813 1447

Italian Cuisine 7, Rue Rigaud, PV 3419 2050 / 3736 5414

HANG Sports Bar & Grill

31, angle des Rues Clerveaux et Rigaud, PV 2942 4264


Italian Cuisine Hôtel Ibo Lélé, Montagne Noire, PV 2940 8504

Haitian Cuisine 43, Rue Magny, PV 3456 6989 / 3452 1772 Haitian Cuisine 37, route Montagne Noire 3455 4454 / 3467 0707 Haitian Cuisine 10, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 5225 / 3466 3908

La Plantation

French Cuisine Rue Borno, Bois Moquette, 22941 6334

La Réserve - ATH

2, Rue Marcel Toureau, Berthé, PV 2940 0190

La Souvenance French Cuisine 48, Rue Geffrard, PV 3475 9795

La Table de Cauis

16, Rue Legitime, Champs de Mars 2940 7227


Le Christo Villa Russo

Corner Rue Faubert & Ogé, 3736 4166

Le Daily Gourmet Cafe

Haitian Cuisine 3 bis. Rue Derenoncourt PV 2940 2449

Rue Roumain off Tabare same yard as Maison Handal across Parc Canne a Sucre. Email: +509 3411 5274


Le Florville

Italian Cuisine 36. Rue Chavonnes, PV 2 813 2100 / 2 813 2200

Haitian Cuisine Kenscoff 3551 3535 / 3449 6161

Le P'tit Creux

Haitian Cuisine 87, Rue Rebecca, PV 2942 3892 / 2942 3893

Le Paris St Tropez

88, route de Kenscoff, Laboule 12 3410 7219

Les 3 Decks - ATH Fusion 3 bis, Fermathe 54, 3418 8511 / 3462 6201

Fusion 48. Rue Métellus. PV 3558 2707 / 3771 3678

Pizza Garden

Presse Café

Haitian Cuisine 28, Rue Rigaud. PV 3 701 0092

Quartier Latin

Fusion 10, Rue Gou/ard. Place Boyer. PV 3460 3326 / 3445 3325

Rebo Expresso

25, Rue Métellus. PV 2949 0505

Les Délices Burger

The Bookstore Cafe & Wine Bar

Les Jardins de Gérard

The Lodge

Fast Food 97, Rue Grégoire, PV 3646 1600 / 3646 1601

Esperanza Building, 87,Rue Grégoire. PV 3774 6729

17, Rue Pinchinat, PV 3449 5943

Fusion Furcy. après Kenscoff 3458 5968 / 2510 9870

Look-Nun's Thai Restaurant

The View

Thai Cuisine 35, Rue Villate, PV 3724 1661


Mediterranean Cuisine #30 Rue Ogé P.V 3821-2121 / 3733-2525


Fusion Complexe Le Belvédère. Angle des Rues Chavannes & Clerveaux. PV 3632 7706

Tiffany Restaurant

Haitian Cuisine Boulevard Harry Truman. Bicentenaire

Fusion 56, Rue Geffrard, PV 2256 2659 / 3727 5951

5 Coins


Celeri Rouge

Fusion 89, Rue Grégoire, PV 3702 3939

Mr. Grill Steak House Fusion 39, Rue Rigaud. PV 3620 4954 / 3620 4844


Fast Food 2. Rue Rebecca, PV 3713 1393 / 2942 1392

O Brasileiro Social Club

103, Rue Louverture, PV 3813 1050


Océane Bar & Grill

20, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 2511 1044 / 2257 0277 88, Rue Panaméricaine, PV 3719 9670 / 3587 9670

travel companion Hôtel du Village

(Port Salut) +509 3713- 9035

Auberge du Rayon Vert

Côte Atlantique Hostellerie du Roi Christophe ATH - (Cap Haitien) 3 687 8915

Résidence Royale

Côte Caraïbe Cap Lamandou- ATH

Jacmel +509 2941-4000 +509 3720-1892 3920-9135 / 3720-1436

(Cap Haitien) +509 3602-6676 2942- 0540 / 2813- 7959

Hôtel Villa Ban Yen

Hôtel Mont Joli-ATH

Auberge du Mont Saint Jean

(Cap Haitien) +509 3943-1110 / 2262-0300

Auberge du Picolet

(Cap Haitien) + 509 2945- 5595 3438-6357

Hôtel Beaux Rivages

(Cap Haitien) +509 2262-3114 / 3682-5583

Cormier Plage-ATH +509 3702-0210 3804- 6673 / 3556- 1549

(Petit-Goâve-Vallue) +509 3420-2091 / 3941-2091

(Vallée de Jacmel) +509 3702-0510 3707-0605 / 3401-1789

L’Amitié Guest House :

Ti Mouillage, Cayes Jacmel (509) 2942-7156 / 3417-7582

Hotel Florita

Located in Jacmel +509 3785-5154 2288-2806 / 3905- 1732 hô

(Port Salut) +509 3713-9035 / 3779- 1728

Xaragua Hôtel- ATH +509 2510-9559 / 3795- 5983

Ouanga Bay

+509 3756- 5212 3932-5810

Dan’s creek

(Port Salut) +509 3614-8143 / 3664- 0404

Relais du Boucanier

(Port Salut) +509 3558- 1806 / 3720-1144 3702- 1066 / 3554-1806

Auberge du canal d’Avezac Levy (Camp Perrin) +509 3739-2800

Le Recul

Port-au-Prince Coconut Villa-ATH

3, Rue Berthold, Delmas 19 3 179 3752 / 2 510 4901 3 556 1549

El Rancho-ATH

5, rue Jose Marti, Avenue des Hôtels, PV 2 944 0707

(Camp Perrin) +509 3454-0027 3727-3589

Habitation Hatt-ATH

Aldy Hôtel- ATH, +509 2514- 0166 2940- 8503 / 2940- 8504

(Aquin) +509 3458-2566 3741-0532

+ 509 2510-2635 / 2940-0135,

Ibo Lélé-ATH

Ideal Villa

6 Delmas 53, Rte de Delmas

La Colline Enchantée

(Marigot- Jacmel) +509 3703-0448 / 3701-96 97

Cyvadier Plage

(Cyvadier- Jacmel) +509 3844-8264 3482-2585 / 3844- 8265



Hotel l'Ermitage de Pandiassou

(Ile a Vache) +509 3721-3691 / 3683- 6253

Hotel Maguana

(Ile a Vache), www. +509 3921-0000 3922-0001 / 3663-5154

(Hinche) 3472 -5934 / 3474-1599 3741-8753 lermitagedepandiassou@yahoo. com (Hinche) 2277-0528

Wozo Plaza

(Mirebalais) 3455-7730/ 2942-1256

Port Morgan

Manolo Inn

(Petite Rivière de Nippes) +509 3461-7108 3768-2059 / 3752- 3838 3727- 0201

Côte des Arcadins Kaliko-ATH +509 2940 4609 / 4640 2223

Wahoo Bay-ATH +509 3735- 2536/ 3735-2831

Moulin sur Mer-ATH + 509 3701- 1918 2813- 1042 / 3702- 1918

Club Indigo- ATH, + 509 3651-1000 3650-1000 / 3441-1000


travel companion Karibe Hôtel-ATH 2812- 7000 3701-1138 / 3701- 1140

Kinam Hôtel-ATH , +509 2944- 6000 / 2945- 6000 /2945- 6001 / 2511- 4400

La Réserve Guest House-ATH

+509 3452-3065 / 3510- 5026 3510- 4678 / 3940- 0182

Le Montcel-ATH

(Kenscoff- Belot) +509 3701-4777 3701-1744 3702-7202

Montana Suite Horizon-ATH Rue F. Cardozo +509 3880 6610

Palms Résidence

Le Ritz-ATH +509 3706-7342 3454-0053

Le Plaza-ATH +509 2517- 0597 3791- 1549/ 2944- 0422

+509 2943- 0303, 2940- 9800 / 3701- 9303

Prince Hôtel--ATH

The Inn at Villa Bambou Port-au-Prince +509 2813-1724

The Lodge--ATH

Furcy +509 2510 9870 / 3458 5968

Villa Créole--ATH

+509 2941- 1570 / 2941- 1571 2941- 0965 / 2941- 1040

Villa Ban-Yen

Value (between Grand Goave & Petit Goave) +509 3420-2091/2941-2091


Visa Lodge-ATH +509 2813- 0777 / 2510- 3424

Receptive Operators Agence Citadelle American Express Travel - ATH +509 2940 5900 / 3445 5900

Uniglobe - ATH +509 2941 0742

Voyages Lumière - ATH + 509 3607 1321

Voyages Plus Cap-ATH +509 3443 0823 / 2940 0484

Car Rental Avis

20, Rue Mais Gaté, Route de lAéroport + 509 2229 6399/ 2941 5555

Budget Rent-a-Car

Corner Rue Léonard & Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1094 / 3856 4988

Dollar Rent-a-Car

Airlines Aerolineas Mas

+ 509 3704 4560

Air Caraïbes - ATH +509 2813 1037

Air Canada

+509 2810 5857

Blvd, Toussaint Louverture, Route de l’Aéroport + 509 2813 1800 / 3724 0950

Air France - ATH


American Airlines

13, Blvd Jean-Jacques Dessalines, PAP + 509 2518 5555 / 2518 5556


Route de l’Aéroport + 509 3779 0700 / 2816 0700


564 Route de Delmas + 509 2942 2940 / 2942 2941

+ 509 3115 5000 +509 2229 6000

Continental Airlines

Copa Air

+509 2940 2326 29402327

Delta Airlines- ATH

+509 2943 3582/2816 1666

Insel Air International- ATH +509 2813 0403

SALSA d’Haiti

Toussaint Louverture Int’l airport +509-2813-1222

Spirit Airlines

+ 509 2940 4421 / 2940 4422


+ 509 2812 8000

Turks & Caicos Airways

Transborder Bus Lines

Capital Coach Lines +509 2 512 5989 / 3 455 1777

Caribe Tours +509 2 257 9379 /3 785 1946

Terra Bus

Airport Shuttle Service Airport Express + 509 3445 5902

Pharmacies Obonsoins

107, Rue Loverture, PV + 509 2512 5260 3800 3737

Pharmacie du Boulevard

1, Corner Blvd. du 15 October & Rue D. Lespinasse, PAP + 509 3459 6553 3808 9050

Pharmaximum 12, Rue Ogé, PV + 509 2816 0116

We are also available online


general info PASSPORT & VISA


No visa is required for stays less than 90 days. A valid Passport is mandatory. Visa required only for citizens of Colombia, Panama, Dominican Republic & Cuba.

Visa, MasterCard & American Express accepted in most tourist establishments. Cash Advance is available in some banks and ATMs.

ELECTRICITY 110 V, 60 cycles, American outlets

CURRENCY The national currency is the Gourde (ISO Code: HTG) The U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere. Currency exchange is available in many banks or hotel front desks. The current rate is around USD1.00 for HTG 41.00 It is advised to convert your home currency into USD before leaving since the local rate of conversion is not always advantageous.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Public transportation is not very well organized and is part of the folklore. Private taxis as well as car rentals (sedans and 4x4s) are available from various agencies. Local incoming travel agencies can also arrange cars & minibuses with drivers & guides for transfers and excursions.

INTERNET ACCESS Major hotels offer Internet access Wi-Fi in public areas & in rooms. Cyber Cafes & Hotspots are available everywhere.


TELEPHONES Country code for Ha誰ti: 509 Local numbers increased to 8 digits. The first digit indicates whether it is a fixed phone (2) or a mobile phone (3). The three mobile phone carriers have booths at the airport.

MEDICAL CARE The hotels have a list of private doctors available for emergencies. Private hospitals offer better service than public ones. Air ambulances may be required for cases requiring transportation to facilities in the region. Several drugstores and pharmacies are available.

LOCAL AIR TRANSPORT Several local airlines offer regular flights with aircrafts of up to 19 seats to the following cities: Cap Haitien, Jeremie, Les Cayes, and Port de Paix. Aircrafts and helicopters for air taxi/charter services can also be organized to various other areas of the country.

BANKS Local & international banks have an extensive urban coverage. A limited number of ATMs is available.


Talk FREE all weekend. Top upFREE startingall at 600 Gdes. Talk weekend. Top up starting at 600 Gdes.



Nou se Ayiti

Nou se Ayiti



Magic Haiti 3 - 3rd EDITION  

Monthly magazine showing the treasures of Haiti

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