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Collaborative Press Show Collection



Empire of Clouds 01/06/2013 6.30pm

The Yard 89 1/2 Worship Street EC2A 2BF


Empire of Clouds

A collection for the The Wright Brothers, Ground control to major Tom Untamed, raw and charged, Empire of Clouds demands attention. Sarah Buchanan’s futuristic representation of aviation, inspired by the true design innovation of flight experimenting with plane models for silheotte.. A walking mirror, dresses are structured and captivating. The inflation of each look keeps anticipation high, no doubt due to the intensificatin of sleeves, reaching a point of take over (or should that be take off) Prints add a new level of interest to the futuristic, space calling materials, Claire Kelly, channels the past attracting it to the present with her use of specialist printing technique. Forcing traditional marbelling into modern textile, creating a new innovative printed material. Stimulating distinct design in the collection Georgie Howling adds height with laser cut headwear. Creating hats from a single sheet of foil by way of intelligent cut work and coupling. Altogether a fly collection from three graduates of London College of Fashion.


“Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.� Da Vinci


01 02

Frames from a film of a MiG-15 Being shot down Schemaics for a randales Balsa- Wood Model B-29



noun 1 the history of flight: aviation, flying, air transport, aerial navigation, aeronautics. 2 a flight to Rome: airplane/plane trip, air trip, trip/ journey by air. 3 the flight of a baseball: trajectory, path through the air, track, orbit. 4 a flight of birds: flock, skein, covey, swarm, cloud. 5 his headlong flight from home: escape, getaway, hasty departure, exit, exodus, decamping, breakout, bolt, disappearance. 6 a flight of stairs : staircase, set of steps, set of stairs.

Commercial enterprise to exploit the flying machine, the Aerial Transit Company.


Most of the early designs relied on close approximations of birds, using flapping wings. The gliding flight of birds was also observed and some of the more successful early designs sought to produce a device which would carry a human in gliding flight.

A field of abandned P-38’s after the war



Plane templates taken from Paper Pilot, The Paper Airplane Pilot’s Manual, Areo-Dynamiques


Design features [edit] Aircraft wings may feature some of the following: A rounded leading edge cross-section A sharp trailing edge cross-section Leading-edge devices such as slats, slots, or extensions Trailing-edge devices such as flaps or flaperons (combination of flaps and ailerons) Ailerons (usually near the wingtips) to roll the aircraft clockwise or counterclockwise about its long axis Spoilers on the upper surface to disrupt the lift and to provide additional traction to an aircraft that has just landed but is still moving. Vortex generators to help prevent flow separation in transonic flow Wing fences to keep flow attached to the wing by stopping boundary layer separation from spreading Winglets to keep wingtip vortices from increasing drag and decreasing lift Dihedral, or a positive wing angle to the horizontal. This gives inherent stability in the roll direction. Anhedral, or a negative wing angle to the horizontal, has a destabilizing effect Folding wings allow more aircraft storage in the confined space of the hangar deck of an aircraft carrier Variable-sweep wing or “swing wings� that allow outstretched wings during low-speed flight (i.e., take-off and landing) and swept back wings for high-speed flight (including supersonic flight), such as in the F-111 Aardvark, the F-14 Tomcat, the Panavia Tornado, the MiG-23, the MiG-27 and the B-1B Lancer warplanes


01 02 03 04 05

An Aerial Transit Company Print (cropped) Depicting The Aerial Steam Carriage “ARIEL” 1843 The Aerial Transit Company’s Aerial Steam Carriage Depicted In Flight Over Egypt An Aerial Transit Company Pamphlet Regarding The Aerial Steam Carriage “ARIEL” 1843 A construct A Plane Balsa Wood Model for the Mitsubishi Zero A randals Balsa Wood Model B-29


Da Vinci Evolution of Flight

Through further research from Buchanan’s own research on Flight for the collection, I discovered my own inspiration for a Print collection. Like Buchanan I became fascinated with the idea of flight once starting to indulge in the concept. The design of the printed textile developed for the Empire of Clouds collection, relied more on technique and process of specialist printing onto modern fabrics, rather than an illustrative new design approach. As a result of this I created a side project of print design surrounding the concept of Flight, how I was inspired from the research undergone for a better understanding of the collection. Due to my interest in natural, organic inspiration as a textile artist, the relationship of flight between machine and bird became a main aspect. Analysing the connection of inventors of flight, taking their inspiration from the animal. I became very interested in the breaking down of wings and flight details, the similarity in Buchanan’s plane templates and Scherft Bird models. Scherft designs led me in a collages approach to print design, allowing for an experimental approach with cut out, stencilling and scanning techniques. As a result crating a range of prints, developing skills in pattern through computer aided design.

Experimenting with collage


Flight is the primary means of locomotion for most bird species and is used for breeding, feeding, and predator avoidance and escape.


Feathers the unique adaptation

Cuculiformes, Ciconiiformes, P Gruiformes, Galliformes, Anseriform Casuariiformes, Psittaciformes, Pho Pelecaniformes, Suliformes, Corac 14

Phaethontiformes, Accipitriformes, mes, Trochiliformes, Charadriiformes, oenicopteriformes, Sphenisciformes, ciiformes, Strigiformes, Piciformes. 15


A wing is a type of fin with a surface that produces lift for flight or propulsion through the atmosphere, or through another gaseous or liquid fluid. As such, wings have an airfoil shape, a streamlined cross-sectional shape producing a useful lift to drag ratio. The word “wing” from the Old Norse vængr [1] for many centuries referred mainly to the foremost limbs of birds (in addition to the architectural aisle.) But in recent centuries the word’s meaning has extended to include lift producing appendages of insects, bats, pterosaurs, boomerangs, some sail boats and aircraft, or the inverted airfoil on a race car that generates a downward force to increase traction.



Feathers: They facilitate flight

avian |ˈāvēən|

adjective of or relating to birds: avian tuberculosis. noun a bird. ORIGIN late 19th cent.: from Latin avis ‘bird’ + -an.



Inspiration from Buchanan’s research into flight, resulted in an exploratory project into pattern for print. The process began with the use of cut out stencil, inspired by the paper plane templates used in Buchanan’s design process. In variation to using templates as a means of design, using the stencil as a base for pattern cutting, I created pattern print designs, with stencil as a tool for illustration. Developing the traditional marble prints into a contemporary, almost graphic form of illustration. Creating a range of print designs varying in scale and layout, producing a separate book of flight inspired prints.


Buchanan beings her collection through innovative pattern cutting, the process of paper to stand. Using toy Plane templates made for the purpose of paper airplane models. Her process is highly experimental, she upscales the designs and fits the shape to the stand. This innovative approach led to my inspiration for the application of print design. Using the plane templates as a starting point to immerse into the context of flight, I considered the variation of print application, considering scale and placement. I experimented with a range of technique for the appropriate design.


Plane Scales, Paper Pilot, The Paper Airplane Pilot’s Manual, Areo-Dynamiques

Stencil work leading to the inspiration behind print placement




Flight is the process by which an object moves, through an atmosphere (especially the air) or beyond it (as in the case of spaceflight), by generating aerodynamic lift, propulsive thrust, aerostatically using buoyancy, or by ballistic movement, without direct support from any surface. The Wright Brothers spent a great deal of time observing birds in flight. They noticed that birds soared into the wind and that the air flowing over the curved surface of their wings created lift. Birds change the shape of their wings to turn and maneuver. They believed that they could use this technique to obtain roll control by warping, or changing the shape, of a portion of the wing.


Continuing the apllication of print design through applying the print to appear through the stencil.


Experimentation of print placement and scale



Passionate about research Buchanan has a meticulous attitude towards uncovering all elements in a concept. In this collection it enabled a distinctive perspective to a large subject, creating a concept based around model making and accessibility of a globally collective dream. Through innovative use of materials and conceptual pattern cutting, Buchanan has achieved striking shapes and confident structural lines, reflecting the impressive machines that inspired. Fascination with the utterly indescribable, near magical, machines that are so integrated, ordinary and standardised, motivated a need to highlight what a truly extraordinary achievement flight, both modern and historical actually is. The simple fact that more is known about space and our surrounding atmosphere than the depths of our own oceans, demonstrates so clearly what a shared and magnificent dream flight has, and always will be.


“Inspired by the true design innovation and achieveemnt from machines of flight throughout the entirety of the comcept and focusing on model making to gain a new perspective and develop an understading of the overwhelming human drive, almost obsession, to do what we can not do naturally, to fly.� S. Buchanan

Empire of the Clouds Collection Saraah Buchanan



Sarah Buchanan Flat Illustrations



Fabric Research A compliment to the silver materials; Duchess Satin, Douppion, Habotai and Stretch Satin where chosen for their natural shine. When sewn adjacent to the mirrored fabric pearlize colours enhanced both the fabric and the print. The colours explored act as an accent to the print. With focus on the hues of pearl and mint found within the print. Due to the boldness of the shape, fabric and print the colour of satins required to be understated. Relying on natural colours in nude and oyster to not distract from the print narrative and silhouette.



Georgie Howling Research


The collaboration with Womenswear and an innovative Jewelry designer, as a reaction to the Press Show will be a great addition to the brief and portfolio. Showing skills of teamwork and working as a small design team, each creating and contributing in their own specialist roles. Developing the traditional dyeing method of Marbling, explored in FMP, prints are to be manipulated on paper-based modern fabrics, to create a contemporary approach. The process of creating printed textile on unfamiliar materials, creating digital vector files printed onto self-adhesive vinyl. With research and exploration of computer aided design, along with heightened fabric research, and specialist printing methods. The outcome of modern designs, laser cut and reshaped with the printed vinyl bonded fabric, modern shapes and unique process of weaving for accessories and detail will add a new dimension to the traditional printed textile .

Development of Headwear Accesorie Georgie Howling




Headwear Accesorie Development Georgie Howling


Toile Development Sarah Buchanan


L I F T The fundamentals of bird flight are similar to those of aircraft. Lift force is produced by the action of air flow on the wing, which is an airfoil. The lift force occurs because the air has a lower pressure just above the wing and higher pressure below.


Sarah Buchanan Toile Development



Sarah Buchanan Toile Development



Sarah Buchanan Toile Development Finals



Specialist Printing

Developing the traditional dyeing method of marbling, prints are manipulated on paper-based modern fabrics, to create a contemporary approach. The process of creating printed textile on unfamiliar materials, creating digital vector files printed onto self-adhesive vinyl and PVC foils. The use of white ink printing, allowed for the advanced design, creating interest in a new design result for fashion textiles.


Specialist Printing with Onward Display on PVC Metalic Foil



Due to the computer aided design process of editing prints to vector files, allowed for the possible variations of scale without concern of quality. WIth no restriction of size and scale for the prints, designs can be elaborate and command attention. Variations of all over, placement and reapeat designs add multiple possibilities for fashion design.

Print Placement


wing |wiNG| noun 1 any of a number of specialized paired appendages that enable some animals to fly, in particular: • (in a bird) a modified forelimb that bears large feathers. • (in a bat or pterosaur) a modified forelimb with skin stretched between or behind the fingers. • (in most insects) each of two or four flat extensions of the thoracic cuticle, either transparent or covered in scales. • the meat on the wing bone of a bird used as food. • (usu. wings) used with reference to ease and swiftness of movement: time flies by on wings . 2 a rigid horizontal structure that projects from both sides of an aircraft and supports it in the air. • (wings) a pilot’s certificate of ability to fly a plane, indicated by a badge representing a pair of wings: Michael earned his wings as a commercial pilot.


Print Placement Development for Sleeves



Placement of Print variations A wide range of print possibilities, being mindful of scale and placement. Due to the extensive shape of the garments, the length of the print needed to be considered. The broad sleeve meant for a print which travelled around the arm, creating a fluid and travelling print. The designs where silver material features heavily, is most successful with a less prominent print. The sparse blue line in the print compliments the silver, allowing the mirrored material to shine through. Designing some designs with the dame print on different scale, adds a casual symmetry to the dress, highlighting similarities yet the scale difference adds interest.



Print Placement for Cuff and Sleeves




Print Placemnet for Large Scale Dresses and hem


Silhouette print placement



Print Placement development variations




Final Line up colourway options Front and Back


LCF Press Show Collection  

A collaborative Project

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