FOOD LESSONS & FAMILY FARMS >> A little bakery that could >> Indian cuisine & belly dancing >> New American Cuisine
BELLY DANCING AT MELA INDIAN RESTAURANT Chris Chromey : : image COVER IMAGE OF MELA INDIAN RESTAURANT : : Chris Chromey
ON THE COVER 18
MOVING TOWARD A SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE COMMUNITY : Schools in need of nutritious food and family farms in need of a consistent market meet : :
BREAKFAST & MORE : The little bakery that could, and did it with Huevos Rancheros : :
AMBIENCE MATTERS : Authentic Indian cuisine located downtown in a fun, hip atmosphere : :
SMOOTH & POLISHED : New American Cuisine in downtown Black Mountain : :
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Delivering the best of
local farms to local kitchens since 1984
Serving hundreds of restaurants and food-service businesses in Asheville and the surrounding areas. Placing a wide selection of fresh produce at your fingertips. Delivering Monday â€“ Saturday (828) 255-7630 firstname.lastname@example.org
d’licious AUGUST 2006 VOLUME 1 : : NUMBER 1
THE MISSING INGREDIENT : An exploration of food rarities, science and lore : :
24 TO YOUR HEALTH : Balance is the key : :
23 ON THE ROAD : 28,000 feet in the air and living : : B. F. LAWRENCE
IN EVERY ISSUE 5 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 25 LEMON & ZEST : : column 26 ASTRO-DELI : : horoscope IN THE KITCHEN AT THE CELLAR DOOR Chris Chromey : : image
D’licious is published bimonthly by D’licious
ART DIRECTOR Matthew Mulder
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Kim Austin : : Cara Ciliberto Lacy Loveless : : Lemon & Zest Chef Oso : : Tiny Thunder Mark Vanderhoff
EDITOR Michael Parker
PHOTOGRAPHERS Chris Chromey
First copy of a new subscription will be mailed
DISTRIBUTOR D’licious staff
address changes to D’licious Magazine, P.O. Box
PUBLISHER & ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Cody Stokes
Magazine, P.O. Box 6652, Asheville, NC 28816. Periodicals postage paid at Asheville, NC. Single copies, $2.95. Copyright © 2006 by D’licious Magazine. All rights reserved. For customer D’licious Magazine at email@example.com. within 6-8 weeks of receipt of order. Allow 6 weeks for change of address. Postmaster: Send 6652, Asheville, NC 28816. Printed in USA.
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• Ingles Merrimon • I n gles Fletcher
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Publisher’s Note INSPIRATION & INTRODUCTION D’LICIOUS MAGAZINE
Cody Stokes : : text Chris Chromey : : image
ood-oh, h ow I love food. My life has revo l ved around some aspect of it for as long as I can remember. I grew up in a large family and wo u l d cook for my youngest siblings at age 8. My mother was a vegetarian and sometimes vegan, so I dreamt of cheeseburgers smothered in cheese, with a side of cheese. She was a great cook, but as a child I didn’t see the value of making yo u r own tofu and grinding wheat for fresh bread. My p a ssion for food came from trying to fix what I thought my mother left out of her co o king. So I thank you, Mother for a ll yo u r hard work and inspiration so that I may take it to the next level. D’licious magazine is fo r people who love food and want to know what’s hot and what’s not in Ashev i ll e ’s wo nderful food and beve rage industry. If you are reading this you t a ke food creation and consumption seriously. But there are some of you who t r y way too hard. Food is simple. Nature has done all the work. All we need to do is orchestrate it properly and make it look pre tt y on a plate. Our focus is to promote local restaurants, wineries, breweries, and other fine food oriented establishments with reviews, stories, and profiles. We are Asheville’s voice fo r the food service industry. Our co n t r i b ut o rs have all been invo l ved in the food industry in one aspect or another; as
chefs, waiters, re s t a u rant ow n e rs, etc . We also value what you as the re a d e r h ave to say. Please email your feedback to firstname.lastname@example.org Cody Stokes Publisher D’licious Magazine
Next issue: - Town Pump - LEAF - Cacina Latina PLUS new features: - Dirt - Latin Underground
In every issue: - Publisher’s Note - Lemon & Zest: D’licious columnists - To Your Health - Astro-deli - On the Road
PLUS: Submit your comments to a new feature: Comment Card. Here’s your opportunity to comment on your experience within the Asheville food service. Whether you’re a patron, server or observer, write D’licious, in less than 100 words, what’s on your mind. E-mail your comments co d y @ d l i c i o u s m a g . co m.
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Make life simple. local, specialty & imported products enjoy our deli and loft seating
Corner of Battery Park and O’Henry in the Grove Arcade • (828) 225-4949 • www.grovecornermarket.com
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The Missing Ingredient
Hey Oso, What is the difference between chutney and marmalade?
EXPLORING FOOD RARITIES, SCIENCE AND LORE chef oso : : text
’m a sensitive guy these days. I’ve always been but now it seems this is including my preferences and tolerances for various foods. Some years ago I gave up milk to a growing lactose intolerance. Not to worry, as I’ve discovered rice milk as a wonderful replacement. It always reminds me of a childhood favorite called Horchata. A simple beverage made from rice, cinnamon, ground seeds, and cane sugar. Now, it practically comes ready made and ready to go! As my collection of years is growing, so grows my need to rediscover other tasty versions of the comfort foods that make the journey just as delightful. My challenge recently was reducing the amount of wheat. Hmm, that was a little tough at first. Being a huge fan of pasta and breads, I was reminded to consider how much I was consuming. So I investigated my glycemic intake and redesigned my diet and found it a great help to my overall health. One of the best discoveries from this was that of acorn pasta.
While in the medium and acceptable range for carbs, it also appealed to my growing sensitivity to wheat. But best of
all was flavor. Acorn pasta cooks very quickly and has a rich nutty flavor. My partner and I find it very useful and satisfying with out being heavy, even in hearty portions. So far I’ve been able to purchase acorn flour online and make my own pasta. This is a tricky flour to work as it is sensitive to humidity and moisture/fat ratios. But this allows greater control over final product and flavor objectives.
However, if you want the ease and of convenience and maybe not invest too much time you can find acorn pasta at Kim’s Oriental Grocery, in West Asheville, and try some for yourself. Here is our favorite way to enjoy this as a side dish:
Acorn Pasta (thin spaghetti) with Garlic Walnuts and Broccoli • 1 tbsp Earth Balance (organic margarine) • 6 cloves garlic-sliced thin • 1/8 cup broken walnut pieces • 1 head broccoli florets • About 4 oz al dente acorn pasta Heat large skillet, add Earth Balance
hough similar in purpose, cooking method and history the difference lies in applications and variety. Marmalade is traditionally Seville oranges preserved in sugar and pectin, often including the rind as well. Stemming back to Roman times when quinces where preserved in honey. Both methods were useful to keep fruit available nearly year round. England is recognized as the host of marmalade since the late 1400’s. Typically marmalade is spread on toast or occasionally eaten with wild game. Chutney or Chatni (Hindi) seems nearly limitless in its broad scope of ingredients. We are usually presented with preserved fruit chutneys, perfect for squelching the heat of some Indian dishes. Chutneys are intended to be used fresh. Fruit and vegetable chutney’s are presented to complement the meal. Starting in the 1600’s, chutney was shipped to Europe for the well to do. Preserving these fruits and vegetables by slowly steeping them in sugar, vinegars and lemon juice made sense to survive the lengthy trip. Both items were a favorite of seafaring folks that needed valuable vitamins to prevent rickets during long voyages that the spice trades created. You can send your culinary question to: email@example.com d’
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Culinary Crossword Across
1. 2. 3.
7. 9. 11. 12. 14. 15. 16. 17.
Large sweet black or very dark purple edible aggregate fruit preserve Golden colored aggregate fruit of genus Rubus Butter and brown sugar G.H. ____ French Champagne. One of the ‘mother’ sauces Delicious concoction Exclamation expressing disgust, horror, or recoil 18th century brewer Arthur Escoffier served than as "legs of the dawn nymphs" to the Prince of Wales. (5,4)
Northern Italian stew Brew Soft sweet dessert with Black Raspberries 4. Soft, ‘second milking’ cheese 5. Japanese: soup 6. North American herb with poisonous root stock and edible though insipid fruit (3,5) 7. Dried powdered sassafras leaves (5,4) 8. A source of nourishment 10. French: Carrot soup with tapioca and consomme 13 Hanoi Beef Soup (3,2)
Culinary Crosswo rd answe rs in the next issue. Copyright © 2003 James T. Ehler
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The little diner that could SUNNY POINT — THE FINEST DAMN PLATE OF HUEVOS RANCHEROS THIS SIDE OF THE YUCATAN PENINSULA. Lacy Loveless : : text Chris Chromey : : images
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n barely over a year, since Sunny Point opened it’s doors on the West side of Asheville, the little breakfast joint that could has made a name for itself in local circles as one of the best breakfast/brunch experiences in Western North Carolina. They also serve up the finest damn plate of Huevos Rancheros this side of the Yucatan Peninsula. The only complaint that most people muster about ‘em is that you’ll be hard-pressed to get a seat inside if you show up when they’re slammed, and they’re pretty much always slammed. “So why mess with perfection?” one might be asking. The powers that be over at Sunny Point decided in the fall of 2005 to give the dinner concept a go. Their philosophy was simple enough to fit neatly in italic print right onto the front of the Sunny Point menu: “Great food that doesn’t require an open line of credit to enjoy”. Amen, brothers and sisters, and let the epicurean adventures begin. Service snobs, leave yo u r attitudes and your ties at home. The laid back vibe that breakfast patrons at the Point have come to know and love is ever-present during the dinner hours as we ll. In other
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wo rds, expect fine dining without the hovering server in a starched white shirt stressing over yo u r every whim and wish. A centerpiece of candles and fresh-cut flowers adorns our table for two. The atmosphere is cozy, accented by mood lighting, and thereâ€™s not too much of a wait before the friendly waitre ss whisks a still-warm basket of homemade bread in front of us, with herb-infused olive oil for a light and flavorful palate teaser. We order a bottle of Tempranillo to share, at a budgetcomfy $16 a bottle. In fact, the entire wine list is an affordable array of award-winning wines from around the world. The staff is knowledgeable, and can assist patrons with selecting the perfect wine to complement any meal. My entree, the free-range Hangar Steak, was so good I wanted to not talk for the rest of the entire meal so that I could bask in its wondrous, carnivorous glory. It comes complete with seasonal veggie medley, wafer-thin potato medallions, and a gob of blue cheese on top. Creative, colorful, and clever
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presentations, combined with a t e n d e r and generous cut of aged beef, make for a delightful assault on the senses, and a clean plate every time. My date chose a mustard seed encrusted tuna steak. Served on a bed of potato medallions with succulent greens and a pomegranate chutney on top, this delightful deluge of sweet and salty is not too much of either one. With a pyramid-style presentation similar to the Hangar steak, the sushi-grade t u n a used in this was complemented by its accompanying ingredients. Romantic ambience, mood lighting, and fine offerings of food and wine at a reasonable cost make the Sunny Point a memorable date destination for any budget. And the best news d’ yet? Huevos Rancheros is always on the menu. Sunny Point 626 Haywood Road, Asheville, NC 28806 (828) 252-0055
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Ambience matters MELA INDIAN RESTAURANT — AUTHENTIC TANDOORI AND A FABULOUS, HIP DOWNTOWN EXPERIENCE. Mark Vanderhoff : : text Chris Chromey : : images
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erusing the menu outside Mela Indian Restaurant in downtown Asheville, I asked myself, what is tandoori chicken worth? My wife and I couldn’t resist the fun, hip atmosphere beckoning us inside, so we took a chance and put our names down on the list. The Friday night wait would be 45 minutes, the cheerful hostess said. But the bar is packed, I observed. No worries, she replied, she’ll just take my cell phone number and call us when the table comes open. Now there’s an idea. I liked the place already. One drink later we were summoned back to the restaurant. Within these walls, the well-dressed patrons chatted merrily. These walls, their earthy yellow paint complementing striped terra cotta tiles, stand uniquely apart from the white walls and white tableclothes that often create a staid ambience in many Indian restaurants. This is, after all, downtown Asheville, where a restaurant cannot
compete without a we ll planned, inviting ambience. Mela scores high, with big front windows that lure passers-by. This is not t re n d y, Americanized Indian food. Owner Anoop Kr i s h n a n offers a menu true to the culinary style’s ethnic roots. We started with some papadum, Indian lentil wafers that are served with nearly every dish at Mela. The airy wafers might have an elusive taste, but not the tamarind and mint-cilantro chutneys served with them. The spicy tamarind provides a nice counterbalance to the sweet mint and cilantro. The aldo gobi masala ($8.95), one of eight vegetarian entrées, features potatoes and cauliflower in a stew with even tones of ginger, garlic and turmeric. Each dinner comes with a perfect dome of soft, fluffy rice and a bowl of spicy lentil stew. The lentil stew stands on its own, but also makes a nice dip for the fresh naan bread. Customers can also choose from lamb, chicken and seafood dinners that
MELA SCORES HIGH, WITH BIG FRONT WINDOWS THAT LURE PASSERS-BY
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range from $10.95 to $13.95. Being a creature of habit, I chose tandoori chicken from the long list of tandoori oven specialties. Mela served up four large pieces of moist, tender chicken that did not disappoint. Our efficient server thoughtfully boxed the two pieces I couldn’t eat. The service is casual, quick and friendly. Credit should also be given for a respectable selection of wine, beer and s p i r i t s . Asheville can be very much a beer snob’s town, sometimes to a fault, so beer enthusiasts as
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Belly dancing at Mela “QUEENLY” PERFORMANCE BY ONCA, DIRECTOR OF BARAKA MUNDI
Matthew Mulder : : text Chris Kit : : image
or the last seven years, Baraka Mundi has provided Western North Carolina and beyond a fusion of dance and musical performance as the premier Tribal Bellydance and Live Music Company. Onça O’Leary, the dance company’s distinguished organizer, states that Baraka Mundi elevates “performance standards” in the Southeast and educates “the public about the honorable traditions of this ancient artform.” A featured favorite at local festivals like Lake Eden Arts Festival (LEAF), Lexington Area Arts and Fun Festival (LAAFF), and now every other Thursday night during the summ e r at Mela Indian Restaurant, Baraka Mundi exercises “exc e llent technique, queenly stage presence” and incorporates “fire-eating and dancing with flames” into their live shows. Baraka Mundi performs at Mela on
Thursday nights twice a month from 8-10 p.m.
well as oenophiles will be happy to find a sufficient offering at Mela. In the end, I decided, the tandoori chicken was indeed worth $9.95. Mela patrons will be treated to some fine Indian food and pay a premium for solid service and fabulous ambience in the heart of downtown Asheville. d’ Mela Indian Restaurant 70 Lexington Ave., Asheville, NC 28806 (828) 225-8880
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and will be Mela’s featured artists at the one year anniversary party scheduled for Wednesday, July 19, 2006.
Dima, a Principal Dancer in Baraka Mundi Micheal D’elia : : image
Baraka Mundi upcoming events: • August 4 – Hafla at the Future of Tradition, co-hosted by Amanda, includes food, drink, live music and informal performances. • September 29 – October 1, 2006: Onça presents TRIBORIGINAL: Tribal Music, Dance & Culture Camp. Dance, movement and culture classes with Zafira Dance Company, DOMBA!, Zi’ah Ali, Zarbek, Fabiana, Diana Stone, and Baraka Mundi; music classes with River Guerguerian; world cuisine by Chef Oso; and more! Visit www.triboriginal.org for more details. Baraka Mundi contact: telephone (828) 232-2980, e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org or Web site www.barakamundi.com.
Cara Ciliberto : : text Chris Chromey : : images
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love not knowing what to expect. Cellar Door? Hm. Old world romanticism? Upscale wine-centered establishment? Consider its location: downtown Black Mountain has a unique cross-section of restaurant options—traditional German fare, popular pizza for the jam-band set, mom and pop vegetarian and vegan café, and an academic bohemian coffee house, to name just a few. So, what new flavor is missing from this conscious cross-section of food options? The Cell a r Door, specializing in New American Cuisine, arrived last summer and has proven to work seamlessly alongside its new neighbors. Two entrances—the main one on Cherry Street, the other is handicapped accessible (ramp)
THE MUSSELS APPEARED AS SLIVERS OF COLOR ... A JUMBLE OF INKY-BLACK SHELLFISH.
Smooth & Polished THE CELLAR DOOR — LIKE A CRISP FINISH TO A GLASS OF SAUVIGNON BLANC
from Broadway, is quite possibly one reason for its name’s subterranean suggestion. The other reason is clear upon a quick scan of their menu. Expansive in its options, which change seasonally, the menu boasts an impressive number of options—four different fish entrees, four impressive salads, lamb, filet mignon, pasta, with each listing accompanied by a wine suggestion. Also, several entrees incorporate wine as a key player in the dish. Overall, this restaurant is as smooth and polished as the crisp finish of the glass of sauvignon blanc that went with my meal. The interior aesthetic succeeds as a balance between warm arts and crafts and cool minimalist contemporary. Asheville architect Stephens Smith Ferrell maintained an impressive degree of architectural integrity from a turn-ofthe-century stable and feed store. Once inside its private simplicity, the room stretches long and lean with a small room set off slightly as a wine-only area. This once-gritty space arrives modern and immaculate with angled maple walls lit amber under sultry glints of light from minimalist lighting fixtures. Seemingly arbitrary background jazz is thankfully
counterbalanced by the relaxed sensibility of our ever-attentive, and knowledgeable server, dismissing any suggestion of upscale pretension. My date and myself found our first taste to be satisfyingly homemade, warm sourdough rolls — just a nibble with a meager smear of whipped chive butter. The appetizer of Prince Edward mussels ($8), steamed in a lemon garlic butter sauce, followed within minutes of ordering. The food presentation is downright celebratory. The mussels appeared as slive rs of color in the form of carrot and red pepperscattered boldly against a jumble of inky-black shellfish. The slightly chewy resistance of the mussels was plump and satisfying, yet, sadly, the pool of liquid drowned out any salty sea potential in an atonal pool of buttery richness. Perhaps a little lemon zest, more fresh garlic, and less discretion on the part of the barely-there tarragon could affect a striking dynamic to this dish. After the plates were cleared, the wine and conversation mingled, and about 15 minutes passed, our entrees arrived. My date had the ginger soy glazed pork chop with tempura vegetables and wasabi cream ($20), and I had their AUGUST 2006
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Wolffish special with roasted purple potatoes ($18). The pork was grilled as requested, resulting in a medium well firmness, precisely edged with a dark crust of soy reduction The pairing, with a tangle of tempura fried asparagus, carrots, and sweet potato was strategically exact — a comforting combination made darkly sweet and wise alongside young and crisp vegetables kept fresh inside a flash of fried batter. The wasabi cream, however, was blandly safe with more cream than wasabi. You know its presentation is a success when it is momentous. When the food arrives and everything else is suspended in silence. Just the color composition of semitranslucent white, pale green, and a shock of tangerine-orange of the Wolffish entrée earns a moment like this. Abstract g race and unfussy arrangement succeeded less as an exact plan, and more as a simple bow to the innate goodness of the fish and vegetables of choice. I appreciated the chef’s savvy behind the supple gloss of braised baby bok choy alongside the semi-firm opaque purity of Wolffish. I had not [continued on page 27 ]
Kim Austin : : text Chris Chromey : : images
Food Lessons & Family Farms PROVIDING A HEALTHY SOLUTION FOR LOCAL SCHOOL LUNCH PROGRAMS AND AN ECONOMIC OPPORTUNITY FOR LOCAL WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA FARMERS
ARLY LA ST WINTER I ATTENDED A meeting with Nutrition Director of Madison County Schools Brenda Spence, Madison
County agriculture extension agent Ross Young, and agriculture extension agent Smithson Mill s . At that time, Smithson was organizing an exciting pilot program to convert tobacco farms to vegetable crops, and then sell the vegetables to the schools in Madison County. >>
THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE IS THE SCHOOL BUDGETS. SCHOOL CAFETERIAS OPERATE AS BUSINESSES WITHIN THE SCHOOLS.
They were looking for someone interested in processing the raw product to a ready-to-use product. This would allow the cafeteria staff to continue business as usual; the only difference would be that it would be locally grown. Of course, I thought “what a great idea!” In late spring, 2005, Carolina Culinary came to life. We focus on linking our local foodservice industry to s m a ll farms in the Appalachian region by providing locall y grown and processed food products for wholesale as we ll as retail. Carolina Culinary is the producer of Mountain Gal sauces and a broker for other fine locally grown products. My involvement with the Farm 2 School was the first time in my life that I chose to connect with the community where I live. Asheville is different! There is a current of social responsibility that flows in the community of Ashev i lle. People are involved in creating a society that reflects the values of the citizens of t h i s city. Whether it is environmental, spiritual, health, or social issues, people are active and organized. My hope is that the whole community will become involved in transforming our school nutrition programs from the under funded, cheap system that exist t o d a y into one that places top priority on the health of our children. After learning how many issues that affect the future of our area that are linked to the nutrition programs in our school, I needed to become involved. The people who make up the Farm 2 School committee come from many diverse backgrounds: farmers, nutrition directors, agriculture extension agents, local food activists, and a chef. We’re bringing all our experience and perspectives together to address a problem that is damaging our community; the lunch programs in our schools. Childhood obesity, learning disorders, and behav i o ral problems are on a dramatic increase. The eating habits of children are a cause for serious concern. We could see the life expectancy in our future generations actually start t o
istockphoto.com : : image
reve rse in the near future. School violence has increased at an alarming rate. Stephen Schoenthaler, a criminal justice professor at California State University, has proven that reducing the sugar and fat intake in our daily diets leads to higher IQ’s and better grades in schools. It is important that we get the right amounts of vitamins, minerals, and unsaturated fatty acids, because these substances directly influence the brain and behavior. The food that is fed to children is transported thousands of miles acro ss country. The vegetables and fruits are harvested so early that they never develop the full nutrients that they have to offer. By the time they arrive to our schools, they have lost even more! The ready-to-use foods are packed with salt, sugar, and chemicals. This is to increase the shelf life and provide some flavor. When food manufacturers process food so much; they destroy the really important stuffnutrients, minerals, and vitamins. The U.S.D.A., not only encourages, but pushes these “low-grade” foods into the schools at the lowest prices possible, AUGUST 2006
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limiting competition from smaller food producers and local small farms. Small family farming in Western North Carolina is in crisis. In America, farming faces the greatest decline in all occupations. With commercial land development at an epidemic in our area, family farms and our landscape is disappearing. Even with school nutrition directors wanting to provide better foods to the children, they face budget restrictions that make it near impossible. Emily Jackson, the Western North Carolina Farm to School committee chairman, says, “The biggest challenge is the school budgets. School cafeterias operate as businesses within the schools. Their budgets come directly from what each child pays. With the money that the school foodservice gets, they must pay for salaries, food, equipment, custodial services, etc. With less than $1.50 per meal, there isn’t much room to spend on better food.” Supply and demand is another c h a llenge. The school year runs August-May in Western North Carolina. Fresh produce that grows in our area is only available
THERE ARE CITIES AROUND THE COUNTRY THAT ARE MAKING THESE PROGRAMS WORK IN THEIR SCHOOLS. until about November. Often the earliest crops aren’t ready until early May. This creates a huge gap that needs to be filled. The answer could be locally grown processed foods and greenhouse farming which could be used off-season, all year around. As a producer, my biggest challenge has been competing with the low prices that the U.S.D.A gives our schools. Commodity items (potatoes, tomatoes, corn, etc) are sold at prices so low that the “under budgeted” cafeterias have to buy them. Madison Counties nutrition director, Brenda Spence, has been a pioneer in her schools. Creative budget management and the support of her school board, has made it possible for Madison County children to eat better at school. Her biggest challenge is a steady, dependable supply. “If you don’t know whether there is going to be enough
local product to go around, then you are obligated to purchase product from a large food supplier to assure that there is, then they are over supplied, wasting product and money. Whether schools in W.N.C. will be able to buy food from their own community and still afford to operate as a business is the question that remains. There are so many areas that need to change before schools can begin to provide quality locally grown meals to our children.” The outlook for Farm 2 School programs is really positive. There are cities around the country that are making these programs work in their schools. It could be a “farmers market” salad bar that consists of local farm products, like the ones in Santa Monica and in Iowa schools; a farmers cooperative, like Madison county and North Florida have, that sells to schools in Florida, Georgia,
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and Alabama, servicing over 300,000 students; or simply purchasing locally grown products like tomato sauce, jams, or apple butter. Of course, additional funding is often needed at the start to support the programs until they are sustainable, but, programs are showing that are able to operate on their own. Let’s choose to protect our present and future generations. Demand a change from this system that we allow our children to suffer from. Whether you are a parent or never plan to be, this problem affects our future and it will take the community as a whole to change it. d’
On the road DYLAN THOMAS WROTE, “AN ALCOHOLIC IS SOMEONE YOU DON’T LIKE WHO DRINKS JUST AS MUCH AS YOU DO.” B. F. Lawrence : : text istockphoto.com : : image
hings that I found unexpectedly we re on Friday morning. While going through check-in at RDU airport (5:45 AM)... getting ready to go through the security checkpoint, I’m asked to show my driver’s license again... the lil lady is standing there waiting for me to fish out my license... I usually keep my ID in those lil slits for cards in the front of the wallet, but I was in a rush at the ticket counter and stuffed it in the pocket behind the slits... we ll when I dig the license out some contraband comes out with it... at Walnut Creek the Painiac comes up to me and gives me a handful of boomers, not needing them I stuffed them in my wallet... also someone had stuffed a bag of some mysterious substance in there when they we re doing it in my hotel room in Rawlay so now I’m in the line (backed up because I wasn’t prepared) the lil lady is watching me so I slide the sack back in, pop the boomies (now flattened from being sat on for two weeks) in my mouth, smile, and hand her my ID, she smiles at me, and I move through security praying that the twist tie doesn’t set off some less kind and gentle agent. I hate to fly, anyway, and I don’t really like trippin’ too hard (it’s not even 6 AM). And then I realize I’m on one of those midget planes and the boomers are hitting me like a pillowcase full of doorknobs. I board the plane and the first thing the pilot says is “My name is Bob... I’m your pilot today on the flight to Cleveland... we’ll be cruising at 28,000 feet... it will be a bumpy ride.” At this juncture, I decided to allay my fears which I couldn’t beat, and found myself
I ORDERED THE BIG BOY BREAKFAST AS A DECOY TO THROW ANYONE OFF AS TO HOW INEBRIATED I MIGHT BE.
joining Bob and concurring that it would indeed be a bumpy ride. So after ordering bourbons 3 and 4 of the short journey... I took advantage of the small plane and the seat I had in the very back of it. Upon landing in lovely Cleveland I found myself in the throws of an incredible giggle session with myself. I was literally smiling and laughing uncontrollably at everyone and thing upon exiting the confines of the Continental baby bird. Fortuna smiled on me, and I had the presence of mind to quickly consult my trusted friend and barrister Lazlo in Columbia (South Carolina), where she is often found napping under her desk after imbibing pitchers of Long Island Ice Teas (2 straws of course). I had emailed her the picture below from my lovely view of heaven high above the midwest and she discerned from her keen eye that there was not only alcohol involved but detected more nefarious catalysts attacking my synapses. When I laughingly informed her of the Don Juan Yaqui halu-silly-gens in me, I told her I’d found myself in the corner of the terminal (no windows) facing the empty joining walls (now moving in circles) and laughing. I asked for a consultation and an expert legal opinion and Lazlo, being a clever AUGUST 2006
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esquire, a big time spender, fancier dancer, and good friend rendered and that in her professional opinion I should get the hell out of the corner and to the bar as quickly as possible. It being nearly 8:00 AM, I concurred and went to the nearest saloon which much to my surprise was right behind me. I ordered a Maker’s Mark Presbyterian with a twist of lemon. The bartender said we do double for a dollar more. I praised him for his scholarly knowledge and kinship and dubbed him Wodehouse. He asked whom Wodehouse was... I informed him every good man behind the pine needs a nickname and P.G. Wodehouse was a tribute to his great intellect and ken on the science of mixing libations. I ordered the big boy breakfast as a decoy to throw anyone off as to how inebriated I might be. The eggs and links provided for a good ten minutes of fun... pushing them around the plate. A girl on her way to visit her boyfriend stationed at Fort Knox, began peeking her beak above the pages of her Harlequin and eyeing my breakfast games, so I quickly stopped and turn my attentions back t o Wodehouse and the bottle of Maker’s that I was making my post dawn [continued on page 27 ]
d’licious ADVERTISERS Your ad belongs here in D’LICIOUS MAGAZINE, Asheville’s cuisine, entertainment and lifestyle magazine. This issue’s advertisers are: Inside front cover: Ultima Carolina Page 2: Mountain Foods Products Page 4: Belly of Buddha Page 6: Grove Corner Market Greenlife Grocery Page 22: Lexington Avenue Arts & Fun Festival
To your health BALANCE IS MORE IMPORTANT THAN DIET. Tiny Thunder : : text Nicolette Neish : : image
mericans love to diet. When a new fad diet is out, the whole country knows about it. But, do diets really work? Of course not. In the long run, people cannot continue to abstain from certain kinds of food forever. How healthy do we really think a high protein diet is for us? Are there not studies that show an increase in heart disease and cancer with high protein diets? High carbohydrate diets must be better for us, right? Diets will never work because our bodies need balance. The saying “yo u a re what you eat” and “yo u r body is a temple” has real v a l i d i t y to it. These are not new concepts and most people do not stop think about what t h e y are putting in t h e i r bodies. Our societal pace has rapidly increased over the past 50 years, and with that so has the development of processed food and fast food chains. The rate of obesity and type II diabetes have also increased and this leads to our fat,
Page 28: Carolina Culinary Sweet Monkey Wholesale Bakery Hannah Flanagan’s Inside back cover: Chris Chromey Photography Back cover: French Broad Brewing Company
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d’licious [ 24 ]
lazy image other countries seem to have of Americans. In third world countries it is the rich who are obese, but in the U.S. it is mainly the poor. It is a lot cheaper to eat fast food, which is loaded with calories and preservatives, than to eat organic vegetables. I believe in moderation in all aspects of life. If you want to have a good quality of life when you are older you must m a ke lifestyle changes. Do not wait until you develop cancer or diabetes. Start now. Begin by reading labels. Be aware of what you are eating. Cut out processed foods, cut back in greasy, fried foods, limit yo u r dairy and meat intake, try eating hormone free organic foods, and exercise at least 3 times a week. Try to discover who you are and what is important to you. A lifestyle change is hard and can be a slow process. Educate yourself about nutrition because a balanced, healthy diet can d’ heal your mind, body and soul.
Lemon & Zest EVERY CULINARY ESCAPADE IS AN EXPERIENCE Lemon & Zest : : text istockphoto.com : : image
e anticipated a cozy relaxed atmosphere; the kind of place where you kick your feet and listen to some good music and enjoy conversation with friends. When we arrived we were welcomed by the inviting glow of two chimineas. Upon entering we noticed a large party to our left but the rest of the room seemed lifeless. At least one waitress and the bartender made eye contact with us as we stood at the door but it was sometime before we were greeted by anyone. Despite having made reservations in advance our waitress/hostess imm e d iately warned us that service would be slow because of the group of t h i r t y. We chose to sit outside since the atmosphere inside was less than desirable; t h e furnishings appeared uncomfortable and the room bare. Our excitement that was flowing like the French Broad River upon arrival dissipated somewhat as we began to feel like unwe l come guests (out of place?, misguided?). Because the lighting outside was even worse than within the restaurant we couldn’t see our menus to order but we somehow managed to order wine as our eyes adjusted. The wine list was acceptable, but too expensive relative to the quality of the food. While we waited, we received our complementary glass of water, which was served in an obnoxiously large wine glass. It later competed for space with the wine which was served in the same type of vessel. The service was as advertised, with the attention of our waitress on another group. Not only did we wait too long to place our order, but we also had to chase down our second bottle of wine. While sipping our first bottle of wine, a Pinot Noir, we ordered an oyster appetizer and we were informed that the oysters were from Maryland instead of the gulf. They were served with lemon on the half shell but we had asked for horseradish and hot sauce. The oysters were fresh
but rather bland and medium sized with a firm texture. Overa ll, the oysters were adequate but far from orgasmic. Previous raw oyster experiences have earned this accolade (in New Orleans, for example). We both felt that the quality of the oyster indicated the quality of the restaurant. On a positive note, the menu had an interesting variety, including a bison burger and steak, a great beer selection, and vegetarian options. Scottish fare, including haggis and single malt scotch from several Highland distilleries, is offered. In fact, we were elated that the pricing was not extravagant, even with such diverse choices. Let us preface our description of the main course by saying that we both love seafood — all kinds of seafood, including some of the most daring sushi dishes of varied shells and scales — fresh and salty. We ordered a seafood platter in an attempt to more fully satisfy our seafood craving, choosing trout, scallops, and oysters, but were denied
usual fashion so that initially we did not question its identity until we had eaten half of it (we shared the entrées). With surprise, one of us realized that our taste buds could not have picked the supposed trout from a line up which included the less than distinct flounder. The scallops were meaty and mildly flavored and cooked to appropriate d o n eness, however, they too failed to impress our senses to the fullest capacity. We chose to have a salad as our other entrée. It was a Caesar with a choice of seafood — shrimp, scallops, or oysters. We chose grilled scallops again because t h e y were not offering the oy s t e rs on that particular night. We we re the least disappointed with t h i s choice primarily due to its inherent s i m p l i c i t y. Our friends that night ate more casuall y by d i gging into some shrimp po-boys. Their experience was u n eventful until one fateful bite revealed the unmistakable taste of propane evidently from the gas grill
WE ANTICIPATED A COZY RELAXED ATMOSPHERE; THE KIND OF PLACE WHERE YOU KICK YOUR FEET AND LISTEN TO SOME GOOD MUSIC AND ENJOY CONVERSATION WITH FRIENDS.
the oysters and can only assume it was due to shortage. We opted for grilled scallops and asked for pan-fried trout instead of the flounder (there was a menu option for a separate trout entrée described as “the best trout in Western North Carolina”). The waitress was stumped for a moment, and after much prodding agreed, albeit with visible discomfort. This was served with choice of sides and slaw; we chose grits. Overall the entrée was tastefully done but not delicious and the trout was more than disappointing. The fish was filleted in the AUGUST 2006
[ 25 ] d’licious
upon which the bread had been t o a s t e d . Although our experience was disappointing we both decided we would be w i lling to give it another t r y, keeping in mind that perhaps we would be much happier sticking with raw oysters and sampling the other bar fare. The image of sitting outside with friends on a late afternoon, in front of a fire sharing beer and a meal of oysters on a half shell (maybe followed by a crab cake sandwich) will most like l y entice us once d’ again to make the drive.
Astro-deli YOUR MONTHLY EDIBLE HOROSCOPE Sara House offers personal astrological services and consultations. For questions or to schedule an appointment call 828-551-1584 or email at firstname.lastname@example.org To learn more visit www.sarahouseastrology.com Sara House : : text & image
(March 21-April 19)
(April 20-May 20)
(May 21-June 21)
(June 22-July 22)
If your office has a
Be bold and daring
Every country has
The scent of
function, you will
its own list of
romance is waft-
do well to attend it
aphrodisiacs. Fro m
ing through the air
or even offer catering suggestions.
new horizons and foreign lands with-
v a n i lla to oy s t e rs, legends prevail
and into the kitchen, Cancer. Your
Picking something delicious and cost-
out leaving your city, or even your
about the veritable virility of certain
desire to make reservations for two
effective will get you the gold star and
own kitchen. The strong and spicy fla-
foodstuffs and their ability to bring
will be peaked and your need to do so
allow you to help choose foods that
vors of Indian or Moroccan food will
heat to a meal without adding spice.
will be apparent late July. Your
help you stay on course with any spe-
best please your adventurous palate. If
Do a little research and plan a special
romantic side will spare no expense
cial dietary needs you may have. This
you can't find the flavor you seek in a
night incorporating these foods into a
or detail as the candles are lit and soft
is a great time for you to start a diet
specific place, imagine it in your mind
sumptuous and sensual feast to share
jazz plays in the background. Find a
or new eating plan because your will
and be free to mix and meld what ever
with someone special. If you don't feel
quiet café and a nice bottle of red
power will be at an all time high.
your mouth desires in the comfort of
like cooking this is an exc e llent month
wine to tell someone how you feel.
your own kitchen.
to order in or pickup take-out.
Your best cuisine is Italian.
(July 23-Aug. 22)
(Aug. 23-Sept. 22)
(Sept. 23-Oct. 22)
(Oct. 23-Nov. 21)
With a strong focus
Put some dramatic
Kick-back close by
With yo u r brain
on yo u r health, yo u
flair into your meal
this summer with
buzzing around like
w i ll be drawn t o
some good home
crazy this summer,
alternative food sources and reliable,
month, Virgo. Pull out all the stops as
cooking and traditionally inspired dish-
you' ll do we ll in a social situation
local and organic produce. Keep yo u r-
you are drawn to big recipes that
es that will have you feeling that
where you can exchange ideas with
self feeling tip-top with refreshing
require lots of your bursting energy.
there's no place like home. Savory
others. Plan a cocktail party to get peo-
juices and big green leafy salads. Feel
Don't be shy with improvisation either
sentimental dishes will call to you so
ple mingling and chatting. Serve indi-
free to dress up your meals and days
as that is exactly what you'll need to
plan something baked and thoughtful
vidual size portions of nontraditional
with healthy and tasty additions such
make a smash hit — your individual
such as gourmet macaroni and
cocktail foods to get the conversation
as heart healthy nuts and nutrient
stamp of Venus-inspired loveliness.
cheese casserole or potato salad.
started and appeal to yo u r sense of t h e
dense avocados. You will immediately
It's all about presentation and smell as
Bring others into your warm comfort
undiscove red. Bubbly beverages will be
feel the diff e rence with some slight
you wow your guests, or family, with
zone and share your hearty dishes to
an excellent accompaniment to the
adjustments to your routine.
colorful and aromatic treats.
create a sense of togetherness.
(Nov. 22-Dec. 21)
(Dec. 22-Jan. 20)
(Jan. 21-Feb. 18)
(Feb. 19-March 20)
If you have a sweet
N ow is the perfect
Explore the world
This month you'll
tooth, yo u'll feel it
time for you t o
of beverages t h i s
be feeling extra
this month. Your
learn some new
social and should
desire for rich food in general will be pro-
recipes and experiment with yo u r own
Enlist the help of some wonderful
celebrate with friends. Check out
nounced. Making your own desserts and
intuition in the kitchen. Your meals for
kitchen gadgets such as the blender
happy hour with ways to meet new
decadent foods will all ow you to see
others will surely impress if you give
and the food processor to whip up deli-
people or have a little gathering at
what's going in and tailor a little, if need
them even the slightest attention. Your
cious shakes, smoothies, juices, co c k-
your place and offer up something
be. Try substituting lower fat versions in
confidence is high and it tastes t h rough
tail and nove l t y drinks. Your ability to
unique and unusual, such as organic
things like cheesecake or lasagna and
in yo u r food so be brave and make
make a liquid dream is only as limited
Thai-inspired sushi bites. Meld the
remember that dark chocolate is good for
something new and complex with dis-
as your imagination. You may also be
tropical flavor of mango with the
you, so eat up. Venture to yo u r favorite
tinct flavo rs to wow your guests and
happy to sit with a soothing bottle of
austere setting of sushi and make
place and splurge for real so that you can
show off yo u r culinary skills.
wine on the deck in peace and comfort
everyone's mouth happy.
to enjoy the sizzling summer nights.
have full glory- but only do it once.
d’licious [ 26 ]
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and add garlic slices. When garlic is just browned around the edges, add walnuts and lightly brown the walnuts in the earth balance garlic mixture. Now you can add broccoli and a couple tablespoons of water and cover. Let simmer until desired bite is achieved. Allow water to almost evaporate and add cooked acorn pasta and season to taste. Remember acorn pasta cooks quickly so let this be the last item cooked before presentation. I generally don’t cook this pasta more than 90 seconds in boiling water. d’
assault on. By the time the I ordered the good lad to make the second I was joined by three stunning birds from the great nation of Texas... a beautiful bleach blonde who represented everything that is bigger ’n better about the lonestar state and her two chestnut haired partners... t h e y ordered three double scre wdrivers from P.G. and noticed I had my pen and racing form out (which I was just drawing doodles on) but to the untrained eye it actuall y might appear I know something about ponies. Small chat about the derby, they asked me who I liked... I informed them that “I went to Aqueduct and Belmont a bunch and the only thing I know is what I learned from a former roomie in South Hampton, Ron Star, owner of A-1 Sport Club (prior to borrowing 50 g’s from the Genevose family), always bet on the ‘King of Belmont’ as we knew and loved him, Mike Smith... although not a triple crown guy, we watch him out at Belmont and he’ll win 3 races a day... give’m a nag one furlong away from being made into Elmer’s and he’ll find a way to win... my strategy, ladies, is do an exacta with Giacomo, it’s being run by my favorite jockey (really the only jockey I know) and it sounds like a word in Aiko Aiko, good karma.” “So you’re going to the Derby.” “No I’m going to see Panic.” “Holy shit Widespread Panic is playing in Louisville?” “Yes...(not it looked like I could have some company to share my plight)... Do you girls party?” This was just the beginning of a morning which would involve a runaway taxi, a pedestrian mall, and a move to stop a vehicle that would have made Colt Sever proud, a mother huggin me thanking me for stopping the runaway mini-van taxi before it hit her stroller (this whole episode had me in tears — the mushrooms made me quite maudlin), a very nice couple who befriended me in my psychosis and palled around with me for several hours, inviting me to venture out of the bar on 4th street and tailgate with them till my best buddy arrived with a copious cavalry of concert candies. Later came the serious partying and a rock n roll show, a drive that started out with intentions for
[continued from page 17]
experienced this variety of fish before and I found our server’s comparison to monkfish’s flavor and sea bass’ consistency to be wonderfully accurate. After the former butter sauce disappointment, I was pleasantly surprised to experience this ginger orange butter sauce variety as a more unified marriage between spicy ginger, citrus, and just enough butter to provide an easy, thin drizzle of sauce. Finally, a relaxed twist of fennel slaw provided a subtle radishy kick to the crown of it, perched atop the fish with unassuming grace. The only flaws to be found were small fare: a side of broiled purple potatoes, which appeared as mushy boiled a f t e rthoughts next to the majesty of the dish’s centerpiece, plus the baby bok choy held a definite grit of stubborn sand between the stalks. This really didn’t bother me though, as I have found my own well-rinsed garden variety holds tight to such surprises. The Cellar Door has a distinctively understated quality. There exists a definite focus to each dish, sometimes to the chagrin of the rest of its occupants, but its star steals the show. Also, there are a remarkable number of innovative choices to grace the sidelines- from the fennel that topped my entrée to other touches of interest. Namely, “Golden Beet Slaw”, “Cashew Cream”, “Parmesan Crisp”, etc. There’s definitely enough interest to d’ come back for more! The Cellar Door 117 C. Cherry Street Black Mountain, NC 28711 (828) 669-9090
[ continued on page 28] AUGUST 2006
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[continued from page 27 ]
CAROLINA CULINARY Summer has arrived and that means the first crops are ready to harvest! Mitch, at Wild Be r ry Fa r m s, will be bringing us corn, squash, beets and carrots in the next couple of we e k s. This is the second year that we are offering vegetables from Wild Berry Farms and you can bet that they will be outstanding! As always, we are proud to offer the finest farm-crafted foods that our area produces. We are your one stop source for: • Mountain Gal pestos, soups, grilling sauces and honey • Fullam cheeses and yogurts • Imladris jams and apple butter • Fire From The Mountain salsa and hot sauces • Head Start Gourmet finishing sauces Most of our products are packed for retail, as well as, foodservice making it easy to use local food on your menus! To place an order or to receive our complete product list, call 828-545-9014 or email email@example.com
Asheville but came to a stop in Lexington, a catholic school girl, Rondo and Shagari Allyn and few good (Kentucky Wild)cats that helped pass a new day... But that's a chapter that takes far too much time t o scribble... d’
Bringing you the Finest in Baked Goods and Catering! Wedding Cakes, Birthday Cakes, Cakes of All Kinds!!
We only do Custom Work so your Event is Unique to you!
From the Smallest Get Together to the Event of the Century, The Sweet Monkey can provide you with all your Food, Service and Planning Needs. Please Visit these Fine Establishments to try some of our Products! Greenlife Grocery - Asheville & Chattanooga Grove Corner Market • Biltmore Coffee Traders Izzy's Coffee Den • Everyday Gourmet Coffee Shop Bonnie's Corner Store • Dripolater - Asheville Poppies Farmers Market - Brevard Appalachian Java - Burnsville The Haywood Park Hotel
Thanks for supporting local foods!
Call us 828-301-0238 for an appointment or visit our Web site:
Kim Austin, Carolina Culinary, Makers of Mountain Gal, Appalachian Inspired Farm-Crafted Foods
Let us plan and serve you at your next event!
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Come experience Asheville’s own little piece of Ireland Downtown’s premier outdoor courtyard Live music Thursday thru Sunday 40 beers on tap 150 bottles
27 Biltmore Avenue Asheville, North Carolina 28801 d’licious [ 28 ]
Serving the following locations: 12 Bones Asheville Pizza Barley’s Tap Room Bier Garden Black Forest BoBo Gallery Bonefish Grill Bonny’s Corner Mkt Boston Pizza Bright Leaf Junction Café on the Square Caminos Carrabas Italian Grill Cats & Dawgs Charlotte St Pub Corner Stone Early Girl Eatery East Village Grill Fine Arts Theatre French Broad Co Op Fresh Market Greenlife Grocery Grey Eagle Grove Corner Market Grove Park Inn Haywood Road Market Hendersonville Community Co Op Inn On Biltmore Estate
Jack of the Wood Jason’s Main St Grill Little Venice Lobster Trap Lucky Otter Mellow Mushroom Merry Wine Market Michael’s New French Bar Orange Peel Pomodoros Root Bar Rosetta’s Kitchen Ruby’s Salsas Six Pack Smokestack Snowbird Mtn Lodge Stone Ridge Tavern Switzerland Café Switzerland General Store Temptation’s Tressa’s Trevi Usual Suspects Weinhaus Westville Pub Wine Guy Zackery’s Pub Zambra
award-winning beers • live music • tours and tastings 101-D Fairview Road, Asheville, NC 28803
(828) 277-0222 frenchbroadbrewery.com