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S w a h i l i

Issue #64 April/May 2014

www.virtualtanzania.com

Ground Control

In Paradise The Little-Known History Of Space Age Zanzibar

Zanzibar’s

Indian Settlement At 50 Tanzania Celebrates

Stronger and Stable

Union

A Pictorial Book On The Journey On The Way

Indian Diaspora In Zanzibar Archipelago

Tribute to

Syedna MohammedBurhanuddin

A Symbol Of Piety, Peace For Dawoodi Bohras In-flight magazine for


contents 26

014 Inside Guide 018 New Discoveries

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44

50

023 LETTER FROM DCMA 055 Stone Town Map

features

regulars

056 Zanzibar Listings 060 Tide CalendAr 061 Dar es Salaam Map 062 Dar es Salaam and Arusha Listings 066 Eco-Tourism Tanzania

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At 50 Tanzania Celebrates Stronger and Stable Union

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Tribute to Syedna MohammedBurhanuddin

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Zanzibar’s Indian Settlement

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Ground Control In Paradise

A Pictorial Book On The Journey On The Way

A Symbol Of Piety, Peace For Dawoodi Bohras

Indian Diaspora In Zanzibar Archipelago

The Little-Known History Of Space Age Zanzibar

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S w a h i l i

karibu sana As we at Swahili Coast prepare ourselves for the heavy rains due this time of the year, we’ve found ourselves between the parties and festivals that punctuate the Zanzibar calendar. And because we don’t have our gondolas with us to navigate Stone Town, we’ve decided to highlight some political and historical stories of Zanzibar that are less well known than perhaps they could be.

Swahili Coast Issue #64 April/May 2014

In this edition we have managed to bring together a few rather odd articles, as well as the usual points of interest and lesser known facts. This year has been a very important year for Zanzibar, politically and historically. As we celebrated 50 years of Zanzibar revolution in the beginning of 2014, this year also marks the 50th anniversary of union between Tanganyika and Zanzibar which entered into force on 26th April, 1964. Ally Saleh talks about how Tanzania has now proudly lived to celebrate its fifty years of existence. You will also find an article about Late Syedna Mohammed Burhannuddin, the revered spiritual and temporal head of the Dawoodi Bohra Muslims. We’ve also included an article on Zanzibar’s Indian Settlement read more on page 44 and another on the moves of Ground control on the island, Jon Rosen talks about the little-known history of space age Zanzibar, see more on page 50. You will find a lot of useful information in our inside guide section, whether you’re living in Zanzibar or just visiting. And don’t forget to have a look at our New Discoveries too. It’s also packed with information we think you should know. We hope you enjoy the read, and this time in Zanzibar. Enjoy, the Swahili Coast Team

PUBLISHED AND PRINTED BY ZG Design PO Box 3181 Zanzibar, Tanzania Tel: 024 2232244 marketing@zg-design.net www.zg-design.net PUBLISHER Javed Jafferji gallery@swahilicoast.com EDITOR Adnan Abbas adnan.quetta@gmail.com PHOTOGRAPHER Javed Jafferji Adnan Abbas Contributors Ally Saleh Jon Rosen

pg 26 pg 50

ADVERTISING AND MARKETING Mahfoudh AlObaidani sales@zg-design.net DESIGN Priscilla Fernandes Unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, transparencies and photographs are submitted at the sender’s risk. Whilst every care will be taken, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for accidental loss or damage. All advertisements are taken in good faith and whilst every care is taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, the publishers assume no responsibility in effects arising therefrom. No content, including the advertising artwork (© ZG Design 2011) and photographs may be reproduced without written permission from the publishers.

ISSN 0856-6690

Freelancers Needed

If you’ve found any interesting things in Zanzibar or the Swahili Coast that you feel deserves promotion – small community & non-profit development projects, eco-tourism projects, restoration projects and the like – please let us know or, better yet, write an article for us and send it with some nice high resolution pictures to features@zg-design.net. If we decide to publish your article we’ll even pay you a little for your efforts.

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Est in 1906 190 FEB 12

SHANG

I AN

OWN ET

6

NZIBAR ZA

STO N WINE & TAPAS BAR

ELIAS JEWELLERS

Our bar is designed in an eclectic style of new and old, enjoy our selection of fine wines and delicious homemade tapas overlooking the bustling street.

The area boasts a combination of modern and traditional design with an in-house gemstone cutting area and a tanzanite wall of fame.

T: +255 778 809009

T: +255 689 052557

THE POST CAFE

ART GALLERY

A casual chic setting, the Post cafĂŠ features delectable dishes. Our delicious and balanced menu has something for every appetite.

Its collection of well over works of art includes historical and contemporary paintings, sculptures, furniture and photographs by Local artists.

T: +255 778 933144

T: +255 778 933144

DELI SHOP

LEMON GRASS

We offer great variety of imported gourmet products such as italian and spanish cheeses, raw and sandwich meats, mushrooms, pastas and much more...

Our selection of authentic, Thai dishes and Zanzibar spices is sure to satisfy even the most discerning palates. Opening May 2014

T: +255 778 809009


inside guide AWARDS

Carl G. Salisbury awarded MBE by Prince William Carl G. Salisbury, Director of ZanAir and also British Honorary Consul was awarded his MBE for British interests and Services in Zanzibar. The "Most Excellent Order of the British Empire" or simply "Order of the British Empire" is and order of chivalry given to individuals for services to Great Britain and the Commonwealth countries. He was awarded the MBE at Buckingham Palace on Friday the 14th of March at 12:00pm along with 80 other individuals for their services to Great Britain. The service was carried out by The Prince of Wales, with an entourage of 5 Beefeaters, 3 Gurkhas and a variety of other official palace personnel.

Responsible Tourism Tanzania

models

wanted

A Tanzania-based non-profit organization, Responsible Tourism Tanzania is the first ever program to audit and measure the sustainability and responsibility of hotels and tourism properties in the country. After going through a rigorous verification procedure, four businesses were awarded with certificates of compliance: Isoitok Camp and Manyara Wildlife Safari Camp both from Manyara Region, the Blue Oyster Hotel from Zanzibar.

work

JOIN THE TEAM

opportunity

ZG Design is looking for a graphic designer to join their team in Zanzibar. If you’re interested, please send a CV, cover letter and a sample of your work to gallery@swahilicoast.com We are also looking for a marketing/sales person. You must be flexible and be able to think and work independently, and you must be fluent in written and spoken English. To apply, send your CV to gallery@swahilicoast.com

WORK OPPORTUNITY

TOURISM

Products Certified For the First Time In Tanzania

Swahili Coast photographer and director, Javed Jafferji, is looking for models for a new photography art book he is working on. If you are a model with an interest in working with Javed, please contact him on gallery@swahilicoast.com

*If you have an event or project that you would like publicised in the inside guide for free, please contact us: features@zg-design.net

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New Discoveries Cave The Club a perfect hangout for the young

Zanzibar

Photographic Journey

We are proudly introducing our new club under the management of Al-Minar Hotel called as “CAVE THE CLUB”. We offer a wide range of facilities which includes a Shisha lounge, mouthwatering mocktails, fresh juices, shakes, wide variety of pre-plated snacks, main course, Free Wi-Fi spot, Music on request, Parties and social events are also entertained. A spa and massage center inside the club will be opening very soon. Opening Hours: - 7.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m. CAFE

Book Cafe The Book Café is a bookthemed café that offers a Book Cafe relaxed ambience and casual dining on an extensive snack plus a vide range of coffees, milkshakes and smoothies. Customers of The Book Café experience value-for-time in a Zanzibari comfort settings. A diversified range of reading materials is available- customers can browse through any of several hundred local, foreign books and magazines.

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NEW RELEASE

HANGOUT

50 Years Of The Revolution

Former President of Zanzibar Dr Abeid Amani Karume with First Vice President of Zanzibar His Excellency Maalim Seif Sharif Hamad jointly launched the book celebrating 50 years of Revolution in Zanzibar. The publisher, Javed Jafferji who is acclaimed photographer and has published almost 60 books on Tanzania. This is surely one of his best; the book itself is a pictorial journey about how Zanzibar has now proudly lived to celebrate its fifty years of existence post revolution. The launch was then followed by a picture exhibition of over 100 historic pictures.


Welcome to

S HO P S , F O OD & DI N I N G

THE POST

The Post is nestled within the stone town’s busy high street on one of Zanzibar’s most treasured landmarks which consists of Wine & Tapas Bar, Elias Jewellers, The Post Cafe, Art Gallery, Deli Shop and Lemon Grass. The Wine & Tapas Bar is designed in an eclectic style of new and old with a selection of fine wines and delicious home made tapas. Open from 12pm to 12am. Elias jewellers opens their largest and most exclusive jewellery showroom designed by gemran interior designer Magnus Rauchergehoft, the area boasts a combination of modern and tradiotional

Spa Now Open

design with an inhouse gemstone cutting area and a tanzanite wall of fame. The Post Cafe - a casual chic setting which features delectable dishes such as home made burgers, sandwiches, salads, wraps and home baked goodies. Whether you’re grabbing a quick snack, or sitting down to lunch, our cafe has been designed to surprise and excite the taste buds! The Art Gallery is a collection of well over works of art includes historical and contemporary paintings, sculptures, furniture and photographs by Tanzanian and international artists. In addition to its permanent collection, the Post Art Gallery hosts visiting bimonthly exhibitions. The Deli Shop is located in the back of the Tapas Bar which offers a great variety of imported gourmet products such as italian and spanish cheeses, raw and sandwich meats, mushrooms, pastas and much much more...Open daily from 10 am to 6 pm. Lemon grass is a restaurant with a selection of authentic, Thai dishes and Zanzibar spices is sure to satisfy even the most discerning palates. Guests may dine out on the balcony, and there’s also a Thai dining room ideal for corporate or social events.

SPA & RELAXATION

Ocean Paradise Spa is now open and fully operational. The Spa has facilities such as 4 Treatment Rooms, Steam Room, and Sauna, 2 Fresh Water Jacuzzis, Skin Product Boutique, Gym and Salon.

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letter from DCMA Music For Music Lovers-the DCMA For those of you who  love music you need to be aware of The DCMA -Zanzibar's one and only treasured Music Academy, and the unique role it plays in Zanzibar's educational and cultural landscape. To give you a flavour of events so far this year: as well as the ongoing music education continually provided we delivered an exciting array of workshops at 'Busara Extra" : drumming , Ngo'ma, traditional dancing and Open Mic. International musical and educational collaborations are actively cultivated and  so far this year we have hosted professional artists and musicians from: Austria, Julia Summers,- singer, Harald Lassen, from Norway,- jazz and saxophone, Gunnar Augland, from Norwaya- drummer, Aniela Frey, flute player from Switzerland and Christina Martinez, clarinet player from Spain. Each artist has made outstanding contributions in extending both students's, and the public' s knowledge, experience- and enjoyment of a variety of global music traditions. At Sauti Za Busara, 3 DCMA  bands performed distinctive and unique sets. Baladna' - a repertoire of Arabic and Swahili music, "Swahili Vibes", a hot, spicy set of fusion music, and  "Swahili Encounters" joined forces with "Taarabband"  from Sweden to wow the crowd. For the pleasure of local Zanzibar music lovers the DCMA performs  regular Sunday and Thursday  night

concerts at the DCMA, , and on Thursday night at the "Jimkana" the "DCMA Presents ....." "Musique Du Monde" ",  an innovative evening of music fusion. The DCMA abroad. The "Taarab Quintet" performed in Istanbul at the "Commemoration of the Ottoman Empire in Africa" event. Follow up tours are planned for 2014 to include a return to La Reunion for the band 'Safar',  and "Taarab Quintet" will perform at a Sacred Music festival, again in Istanbul. On CD, a remarkable collaboration of  the DCMA and the Norwegian Radio Orchestra, "Symphonic Taarab", is available now at the DCMA.  Future artistic collaborations with France, Russia, Japan, Denmark, Germany, Norway and mainland Tanzania  are headlined for 2014.

The Dhow Countries Music Academy Zanzibar (DCMA) is a non - governmental, not-for-educational and cultural organisation registered in March 2001. DCMA opened Zanzibar’s first music school in September 2002 providing music lessons as well as instruments at minimal cost to anyone interested in studying music related to their culutural background or acquiring mastery of an instrument. Special emphasis has been placed on teaching traditional music instruments and styles such as Taarab, Beni and Kidumbak. The overall aim of DCMA is to preserve and promote the musical heritage of Zanzibar and Dhow region.

www.zanzibarmusic.org

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Tanzanite Treasure PO Box 3121, Shangani Street, Forodhani area near NBC Bank. Zanzibar, Tanzania. T: +255 24 2232987 M: +255 652 040415

Zanzibar Silver Art Hurumzi Street, Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania. M: +255 776 529990 E: zanzibarsilverart@yahoo.co.uk


At 50 Tanzania Celebrates

Stronger and Stable Union A pictorial book on the journey on the way BY Ally Saleh

This year marks the 50th anniversary of the union between Tanganyika and Zanzibar which entered into force on 26th April, 1964 after the leaders of two independent countries – Tanganyika and Zanzibar-

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Julius Nyerere and Abeid Amani Karume respectively signed The Articles of Union. The name Tanzania was the preferred one from the immediate name of United Republic of


LEFT: Early days of the Chake Chake, Pemba main market.as multi ethnic society freely intermingling an indication of an understanding society. ABOVE: It is a market day. Farmers line up at the Zanzibar fruit market with their products to find potential buyers either directly or through auction for the highest bidder (top left); Two huge elephant tusks infront of.an Arabic door in the heart of the Stone Town at a time when Zanzibar was the centre for slaves, ivory and spices (left); The New Africa Hotel in Dar es salaam at its embryonic stage. It began as a hotel targeting the high end and colonial class. The hotel now is a state of the art property laying strategically at the hear of the city centre. (bottom left).

Tanganyika and Zanzibar. And Tanzania has now proudly lived to celebrate its fifty years of existence. The country has been under stewardship of four leaders namely Julius Kambarage Nyerere, Ali Hassan Mwinyi, Benjamin Mkapa and Jakaya Kikwete who have made Tanzania a super brand that stands out from the crowd. It not only a name of a country but a power house for peace and tranquility. Tanzanians have a lot to celebrate. Ours is the only union that has survived in Africa and which has been going from strength to strength. It has always wished to see one Africa and one people and that is why it has strived for African liberation and has championed for both regional unity as well as that of

the continent. It has stood for a good cause anywhere in the world. It will be celebration for resiliency, unity, diversity and communality. The country has been able to weave together over 120 tribes with contrasting cultures and now proudly stand under one umbrella and united by one language – Kiswahil- helping to build patriotic citizenry. As a country Tanzania has had many ups and downs. It lost out in her struggle to build a socialist society, has not been successful in distribution of wealth and thus poverty stands as main challenge to individual development. It has gone into war when her sovereignty was at stake.

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In 50 years it has scored plus in the provision of social services. More schools, more universities, more hospitals, more roads, more water and more electricity. All services coming closer to the people. With the finding of oil and gas and the strengthening of the good governance through the new upcoming constitution the future looks promising. The new constitution hopefully to be unveiled in April will give Tanzania a new birth and a stronger union to take the nation to better times. From the new constitution the buck will be passed from the hands of the of one generation that has helped to shape this country to the next generation eagerly awaiting to take up their roles knowing that Tanzania belongs to them.

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This will be a year-long celebration that should serve to remind Tanzanians of their past challenges but also their future opportunities. The 50 year journey of the Union will be presented in coffee table book that will detail in pictures the path that Tanzania has gone through the actions of its heroes and icons; its beauty and resources; its major local and regional decisions and many defining moments in the life and vitality of this country. This follows the publication of 50 Years Book of the Zanzibar Revolution that was launched jointly by Former President of Zanzibar Amani Karume and First Vice President of Zanzibar Seif Shariff Hamad.


LEFT: An aerial view of the central district of Dar es salaam including the harbor probably taken late 50’s or early 60’s. The St Joseph Cathedral stands out in the crowd laying adjacent the jetty that accommodates boats plying between Zanzibar and Dar es salaam. ABOVE: Retiring President Julius Nyerere inspecting his last guard of honour in 1985 having announced that he was stepping down. He led Tanganyika to independence in 1961 and was instrumental to the 1964 Union with President Abeid Karume of Zanzibar. Nyerere was Union President and Commander in Chief for 21 years. (top); President Julius Nyerere congratulating his immediate successor Ali Hassan Mwinyi for having been nominated to be CCM’s candidate for the post of President in the 1985 General Elections. Nyerere was stepping down after 24 years in power. Mwinyi became the second President of Tanzania and his term lasted from 1985-1995 (bottom left); Benjamin William Mkapa receiving military salute after being as the third President of Tanzania at the National Stadium, Dar es salam. Mkapa was to become the first president under multi party politics introduced in the country. He contested and worn against Augustine Mrema of Tanzania Labour Party (TLP) and Ibrahim Lipumba of Civic United Front (CUF) (bottom right).

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THIS PAGE: Military training in the era of the Zanzibar owned Jeshi la Ukombozi (JLU) formed after the January 12, 1964 and dissolved after the formation of the Tanzania Peoples Defence Force as a result of the April 26, 1964 Revolution (top left); The coffin of the slain President of Zanzibar Abeid Amani Karume being carried towards his last resting place at the headquarters of Afro Shirazi Party which he helped found in 1957. Karume was assassinated on April 7, 1964 (top right); Long lines of people who wanted to say their last good bye to their beloved leader first President Mwalimu Julius Nyerere whose body was laying in state at the National Stadium in Dar es salaam (bottom left); Tanzania People’s Defence Force (TPDF) fighters with anti air craft missile at the front line during the 1979-1980 War against Uganda (bottom right). NEXT PAGE: President Jakaya Mrisho Kikwete waving to the cheering crowd as he enters the National Stadium in Dar es salaam to grace the 50th anniversary of Tanganyika independence (top); President Dr Ali Muhammed Shein inspecting a good of honor during the occasion of marking 50 years of Zanzibar Revolution at the Amaan Stadium (bottom).

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Tribute to Syedna Mohammed Burhanuddin A symbol of piety, peace for Dawoodi Bohras. BY Shabbir Hussein

He was credited with guiding the 1.2 million strong Dawoodi Bohra community out of the shadows and leading them on to the stage of modernity and prosperity. Syedna Mohammed Burhanuddin, the spiritual and temporal head of the Dawoodi Bohra Muslims who died in Mumbai at an age of 102, provided dynamic leadership to the largely business-oriented community which claims 100 per cent literacy. He was known for insightful teachings. Revered as the 52nd Dai-al-Mutlaq by the Bohras, the Syedna’s love for environment, flora and fauna was legendary. He was also an Arabic scholar. Born in Surat, the Syedna was educated by his illustrious father, the late Syedna Taher Saifuddin. Syedna Taher Saifuddin personally trained the future Syedna and later affirmed him as his successor. In 1965, Syedna Mohammed Burhanuddin succeeded his father at the age of 53, heralding a new era for the Bohra community. Among his major contributions was to supervise and support the community’s literacy efforts through 400 educational institutions in the world to impart religious, spiritual and secular education. The pride of place belongs to the Al-Jamiah Al-Saifiah Arabic Academy in Surat - an over twocentury-old Arabic university - and its new campus built by the Syedna in Karachi in 1983. The Syedna exhorted his followers to conduct businesses combining mercantile and Islamic principles. With a view to foster healthy businesses, he institutionalized the Quranic concept of interest-free loans.

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A few years ago, the Syedna established the Burhaniyah Business Counselling Centre in Mumbai to provide modern business solutions. The Syedna strongly believed in giving back to nature through ecological conservation programmes and preventing environmental degradation. Scores of agriculture, horticulture, apiculture projects, greenhouses, terrace farming, plantations and afforestation projects were taken up under the auspices of the Burhani Foundation (India). In 2011, he threw his weight behind efforts to conserve the sparrow. On the social front, the Syedna encouraged and institutionalized the tradition of mass marriages to curb wasteful expenditure on opulent marriages. In cities like Mumbai, he launched low-finance housing schemes. At a macro-level, the Syedna took direct interest in the redevelopment of old, dilapidated buildings housing over 4,000 Dawoodi Bohra families in a small chunk of Bhendi Bazaar in south Mumbai. The Syedna undertook the mammoth task of construction, renovation or restoration of several ancient and world heritage mosques, mausoleums and other buildings of historical significance worldwide. Chief among these were the ninth century mosque of Imam Hakim, Al-Jame Al-Anwar in Cairo, and ancient buildings in Yemen, Syria and India. The Raudat Tahera in Mumbai is a marble mausoleum of the Syedna’s father where the entire Quran is inscribed on the inner white walls in letters of gold and precious stones.


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Zanzibar’s Indian Settlement Indian diaspora in Zanzibar Archipelago BY Peter Smith

Among the Indians in Zanzibar the Parsees and Goans formed fairly average sized communities. We had earlier talked about the Parsees. We now bring up the Goans. They were hardworking and flamboyant people. In actual fact they did not consider themselves Indians as Goa then was under the colonial rule of the Portuguese. Also with their Christian background and fluency in English they could easily connect themselves with the colonials. No doubt the Barretos and Carvalhos featured prominently in Zanzibar’s banks and administrative set ups. Some were specialized as tailors. A Goan tailor shop in the stone town was a common sight. They had their twin towered cathedral with statues of Virgin Mary located in Vuga beside the Samachar Printing Press across Portuguese street. What comes to mind is the spectacle of their funeral procession in Zanzibar. There was somberness about it. The cortege would be led by a pole bearer followed by a black cart with wreaths laid over it, and then the

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relatives carrying the coffin over their shoulders. The mourners in their black attire walked behind in dignified manner. Some of Zanzibar’s prominent doctors like Demello, Menezes, D’silva and Maitra were Goans. The Goans also excelled in sports. They had their ‘Goan Club’ and ‘Goan Institute’. The burly James D’lord was one of Zanzibar’s hardest hitter of the cricket ball. The Goans along with Hindus and Comorians were dominant in field hockey. Their school St. Joseph Convent run by the Catholic Mission was one of Zanzibar’s most prestigious school that admitted besides Catholic only selective non Catholic pupils. The school was located behind the High Court which was on the main Shangani Road where many Goans resided. The road stretched up to the Post Office at the far end of Portuguese street where mainly the Hindu community resided.


The Hindus in Zanzibar were an enterprising community, and foremost among them were the Bhatias. It is said that the brothers Jeraj and Eebji Shivji were the first to settle in Zanzibar. Later their surname Shivji changed to Swaly which is derivative of the term ‘Swahili’. Narandas Swaly, a reputed contractor, whose expertise our forefathers sought in having their walls and ceilings bricked up, and Vinod Swaly, a very popular teacher at the Agakhan Secondary School, were the descendents of Eebji Swaly. Here we need to point up a significant and historic incident. It was the visit of Mahatma Gandhi to Bhatia Mahajanvadi at Ziwani en route from South Africa to India. There is an interesting anecdote relating to this episode. Gandhiji refused to enter the Bhatia Mahajanvadi building as there was a notice saying ‘Bhatia sivay koine andar aavavani raja nathi’ (only Bhatias are allowed to enter) . That really embarrassed the committee. The notice was immediately removed and after persuasion Gandhiji consented to enter the building. Years later in 1948 Gandhiji was assassinated and sadly this time his ashes brought to Zanzibar when a large number of Asians gathered at the dock as a mark of respect for this great Mahatma. The ashes were then taken to Jinja (Uganda) to be scattered in the Nile. The Hindus observed diwali with great pomp and ceremony. The diwali illumination brightened up Shangani/Portuguese/ Hurumzi (Vaddi Bhajaar) streets and they burst with crackers. On the eve of Diwali ‘chopra puja’ was held in every shop. Even Muslim shopkeepers participated in this ‘puja’. Every Indian shopkeeper had his ‘namu’ (accounts) done in ‘Gujarati’ and he closed his books to transfer the balances into the new ones on the Hindu New Year. Also the rupee was Zanzibar’s legal tender. The Bhatias were held in very high esteem by the Sultan and some even acted as advisers to him. The Jetha Leela private bank located in Portuguese street may be recorded as one of the oldest financial institutions in East Africa. The street also housed the clinics of the well known Hindu doctors - Dr. Goradia, Dr. Mehta and Dr. Patel who were immensely popular with the settlers. Zanzibar was indeed blessed with great professionals and formidable intellects. The round clock protruding from the building on Shangani signified Zanzibar’s High Court. Its Chief Justice, Sir John Grey, formed an authority on Zanzibar’s judicial system. Other prominent personalities included Judge Green, Magistrate Husain Rahim and Registrar Husain Nazarali. Zanzibar boasted a Secular Court and a Sharia Court. Sheikh Omar Smet and Abdullah Saleh Farsi were Chief Kadhi for the Sharia Court. The Talati brothers of ‘Wiggins and Stephens’ and the Lakha brothers were some of Zanzibar’s leading lawyers. Wolf Dourado went on to become the Attorney General in the post Revolution phase.

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Zanzibar’s oldest newspaper was a weekly Samachar published by Fazel Master whose establishment dated back to 1903. The bilingual (English and Gujarati) paper was circulated on Sundays only. Such another was ‘Zanzibar Voice’ by Ibrahim Kassam. Also Rati Bulsara entered with his very own Adal Insaaf. The Government Press besides the gazette delivered Maarifa on Thursdays. Portuguese street adjoined Sokomohogo/ Mkunazini streets which were largely occupied by the Bohoras who were old settlers and dealt in hardware, crockery or had tin/glass cutting workshops. They had as many as three mosques which were situated at Kiponda, Mkunazini and Sokomohogo. Their gym/club was the finest with excellent facilities.

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The late His Holiness Syedna Taher Saifuddin paid a visit to Zanzibar in the late 1950s. On that occasion the Bohora Scout troop displaying their classic band marched majestically through the streets of stone town. At night Mkunazini and Sokomohogo were transformed into a glitter. The spacious Bohora School compound exhibited spectacular replica of the ‘Sefi Mahal’. In adherence to the salutary advice by Syedna a great number of Bohoras staked their livelihood in Zanzibar. Presently theirs is the largest community abounding in prosperity.. There was great concentration of Kutchi Sunnis too in Mkunazini/Sokomohogo. They comprised Memon, Khatri, Sonara, Sumra, Surya, Loharwadha, Girana, Juneja, Sameja,


Chaki, Kumbhar, Hajam, Bhadala and such Kutchi artisan/smith communities. There were also Sunni communities other than Kutchi such as Kokni (Muslims from Maharashtra) and Surti Vora (Muslims from Surat, Gujarat). Equally early settlers were the Kutchi Sunnis. As a matter of fact our forefathers were brought to Zanzibar in dhows navigated by the Kutchi Sunnis. In the instance of Kutchi Kumbhars (a pottery class) some inhabited Makunduchi. They built up contacts with the locals there, spoke fluent Kiswahili and attended school in Makunduchi where medium of instruction was Kiswahili. The owners of ‘Sura Store’ and ‘Muzammil’ who were destined to flourish in the post Revolution phase are the progeny of this ancestry.

Portuguese street also converged on Hurumzi (Vaddi Bhajaar) where the Hindu and Jain temples were located. The street extended up to Saleh Madawa’s shop or the monumental Ismaili Jamaatkhana that stretched all the way from one road to another. It formed terminus for several by-ways and lanes that headed towards the Khoja dominated Kiponda/Malindi. In the early days the Ismailis had jamaatkhana even in Sateni, Bumbwini and Chwaka. Obviously the Khojas (Ithnashris & Ismailis) formed the bulk of the settlement (amply evidenced by the earlier days’ census)) and were scattered all over Zanzibar including Ngambu, Bububu, Mfenesini, Bumbvini, Chwaka and Makunduchi.

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Ground Control In Paradise The little-known history of space age Zanzibar BY JON ROSEN

Hidden along an overgrown dirt road amid an isolated patch of farmland, the rusted aluminium shed does anything but exude a vibe of scientific triumph. Crumbling, riddled with graffiti, and long-ago gutted of wires and other valuables, it could barely sell for scrap at a small-town junk yard. Go figure, then, that it once helped launch man to the cosmos. Though the era now seems worlds away in a Zanzibar that was soon to be transformed by revolution, for four years in the early 1960s this was one of sixteen global sites used by the United States to track its first manned space flights, part of an operation known as Project Mercury. Established in 1959 by the newly-created National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), Mercury sought to “investigate man’s capabilities in space,” in an era dominated by a race for technological superiority between cold war rivals the United States and the Soviet Union. Beginning with unmanned launches, the project produced the celebrated “Mercury

050

Seven” – the first batch of U.S. astronauts. These included Alan Shepard, who on May 5, 1961 became the first American in space, and John Glenn, the first American to orbit the earth, on February 20, 1962 (The Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin had already accomplished both with his Vostok1 Flight on April 12, 1961). Long before any of these feats, however, NASA had realized that the dawn of the space age required not only the finest in state-of-the-art rocketry, nor a group of young pilots with the Right Stuff (to quote the title of the Tom Wolfe book and subsequent academy-award winning film about the Mercury astronauts) for space travel. In order to communicate from Earth with this first crop of American star voyagers – even control the spacecraft from the ground if the astronaut became incapacitated – it was also necessary to establish a network of global tracking stations. To ensure a maximum of ten minutes orbit time between contact with one ground station and the next, sixteen facilities were needed:


two on ships at sea and the rest on land – including the site on Zanzibar. In June 1960, with the support of Sultan Khalifa ibn Kharub, the United States purchased a tract of farmland near the village of Tunguu, 15km east of Stone Town. Within nine months, the station was up and running, staffed by technicians from the Bendix Radio Corporation, a U.S. government contractor. “For the American technicians, Zanzibar was a favoured assignment,” says Torrence Royer, who spent two years on the island as a child while his stepfather worked at the station. “Zanzibar was one of the few sites around the world where families were allowed to come along. I remember snorkelling on the weekends and staying up at night to watch for Russian and American satellites. It was a great place to be a kid.” According to Royer, one highlight of Zanzibar’s short-lived space age was the triumph of Glenn, who circled the Earth three times before splashing in the Atlantic aboard his spacecraft, Friendship 7. Shortly after, Glenn and his wife paid a visit to Zanzibar. “That was quite an achievement,” says Royer. “If they couldn’t orbit the earth, they couldn’t take any of the next steps in space exploration. Afterwards, we had quite a party.” A triumph for the astronaut and his on-ground staff alike, Glenn’s orbit, along with three remaining Mercury missions, would help pave

the way for the space age’s future – including, just seven years later, man’s footsteps on the moon. This future, however, would not be tracked from Zanzibar. Though the station continued to operate after the end of the Mercury program, most of its employees were swiftly evacuated when violent revolution struck the islands in January 1964. Three months later, President Abeid Amani Karume of the revolutionary government – already swinging toward the influence of the Soviet Union – announced that the station would be removed by the end of April, claiming it “endangers our island, our relations with neighbours, and the whole of Africa.” The Zanzibar Mercury site was soon left to crumble, forgotten by most islanders, with the possible exception of then 18-year-old Stone Town resident Farrokh Bulsara. By the time he reached fame as the lead singer of the rock band Queen, he was known by a most suspicious pseudonym: Freddie Mercury. 44 years after its closure, walking through the blighted shed, one can still imagine the tracking station humming with life: plaid-shirted engineers in 1960s crew cuts manning oversized computers flanked with rows of tubes and strange mechanical objects; fighting through the static as a small, manned, bell-shaped capsule circled the Earth just beyond the edge of the atmosphere.

051


INSPIRING TRAVEL. INSPIRING EXPLORING. INSPIRING zanzibar.

WE ADD A PERSONAL TOUCH TO ZANZIBAR

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cultural 2 Stone Town Cultural 02 Centre 59 Dhow Countries Music 59 Academy

city guide

stone town

historical 34 34 41 41 54 54 56 56 57 57

1

ad

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lind

Ma

2

4

Malindi

Of House ers d Won

30

Ca th ed ra l

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71 St

33 38 t

14

Hamam

62

69

Baghani

37 icide

Su ey

All

gh

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31 35

Mkunazini

Sokomuhogo

43

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New Mkun a

Sok

48

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50

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42 47

23

34

39

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44

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54

et

Vuga

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53

20

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Jamhuri Gardens

Mk

Ke 52 ny at ta

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oa d

41

40

a Street

et

36

Darajani

Kipond

24

Hamamni

65

29

28

Kiponda

aar

Str e

Keny atta Rd

Shangani

Changa Baz

ree

rt

u Co

Vug a

63 Victor

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Kisiwandui

3 03 4 04 11 11 18 18 19 19 23 23 25 25 31 31 32 32 33 33 35 35 38 38 46 46 50 50 61 62 62 64 63

70

zi

du ad

Ro

1

nja

57

Hotels & Spas

12 12 13 13 14 14 16 16 17 17 20

24

Clove Hotel 236 Hurumzi Al Johari Karibu Inn Coco De Mar Jambo Guest House Swahili House

Be

27 37 39

43 47 48

49

6 06 9 09 10 10 15 15 21 21 26 26

min

ad

58

oa

d Ro

ap aR

m

56

Mk

seu

Mnazi Mmoja

Serena Inn Mazsons Hotel Mrembo Spa Chavda Hotel Dhow Palace Hotel Kisiwa House Africa House

51

63

65 66

67 68

5 Shiva Shakti Hindu 05 Temple 30 St Joseph Cathedral 30 44 UMCA Cathedral 44 10

practical 7 One Ocean Dive Centre 07 8 Bahari Divers 08 29 Shangani Post Office 29 42 FBME Bank 42 53 Zanzibar Medical Group 53 58 Mnazi Mmoja Hospital 58

Precision Air/ Kenya Airways Lookmanji Curio Shop Zanzibar Curio Shop Upendo Means Love Zanzibar Gallery Darajani Pharmacy Memories of Zanzibar Mhamshu & Sons Pharmacy Coastal Travel Offices Abied Curio Shop New Karibu Pharmacy Tamim Curio Shop The Treasure Trove Kanga Kabisa Doreen Mashika Shop Mago East Africa Saifa Shop Fahari Blue Gems

restaurants

pin

Ma

oad

Mu

religious

shops

69

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aR nd Kau

State House

d

Kibokoni

Victoria Garden

Roa

et

Health Off ice Road

27 64 32

Huru

Kokoni

Hurumzi

68

Gizenga Street

25

mzi

10

Kiponda

13

ria

70

67

9

et

12

Th a

15

5 Hurumuzi Stre

11

reet

19

16 18 17 21

t tree ni S

nga Sha

Kiponda

66

heni St

8

The Old Fort

Kajif ic

7

6

m

useu

Ya Moto Street

ni Str eet

Forodhani Gardens

Malindi Street

Dara ja

Forodhani

4

ce M Pala

mba Nyu

Jamatan i Ro a d

Road

gani

Mzin

3

iS tre

59

p l a c e s of in ter e st

Zanzibar Port

Hamamni Persian Baths Tippu Tip House Old Portugese Arch Natural History Museum Peace Memorial Museum

St Monica’s Hostel Asali House Jafferji House & Spa Mashariki Palace Hotel Cinnamon Spa Maru Maru Hotel

28 36 36

40 45 45 52 52 60 60 65

71

65

Mercury’s Restaurant Bahari Restaurant The Silk Route Restaurant Old Fort Restaurant Radha Food House Louis Yogurt Parlour Zanzibar Coffee House Book Cafe Amore Mio Restaurant Six Degrees South Pagoda Restaurant La Spice Rendezvous La Taverna Restaurant Mistress of Spices Soko Cafe

055


zanzibar listings

bars

Africa House Sunset Bar 0777 432340 Kisimani Bar (Chavda Hotel) 024 2232115 Mcheza Bar (Mtoni Marine) 024 2250117 Masahani Bar (Serena Inn) 024 2233051 Tatu 0778 672772 Wine& Tapas Bar 0778 809009

restaurants

6 Degrees South 0779 666050 Amore Mio 0776 211071 Archipelago Café Restaurant 024 2235668 Bahari Restaurant (Tembo Hotel) 024 2233005 Baharia Restaurant (Serena Inn) 024 2231015 Beyt Al Salaam 0773 000086 Book Cafe 0774 164866 Buni Cafe 024 2231919 Chavda 024 2232115

056

Coco de Mer 024 2230852 Darini (Kisiwa House) 024 2235654 Green Garden 0773 849636 Hakuna Matata 0777 454892 House of Spices 0773 573727 Le Spice Rendezvous 0777 410707 La Taverna, Italian Café & Restaurant 0776 650301 Luis Yoghurt Parlour 0765 759579 Livingstone Restaurant 0778 666841 Mangapwani Seafood Grill 024 2233587 Mercury’s 024 2233076 Mistress of Spices (Jafferji House) 077 3740888 Monsoon Restaurant 0777 410410 Mtoni Marine Restaurant 024 2250117 Pagoda Restaurant 024 2234688 Parachute (Opposite Airport) 0777 575566 Radha Cafe (Mbweni) 0774 599777

Radha Food House 024 2234808 Sambusa Two Tables 024 2231979 Sea View Indian Restaurant 024 2237381 Soko Cafe 0774 643638 Stone Town Cafe 0773 861313 Spices Restaurant (Zanzibar Beach Resort) 024 2236033 Tanzanite Inn 024 2232937 The Post Cafe 0778 933144 Tower Top Restaurant (236 Hurumzi) 024 2232784 Zan Sushi 024 2250117 Zanzibar Coffee House 024 2239319 Zanzibar Fusion (Al Johari) 024 2236779 Upendo Lounge/Restaurant 0777 244492

hotels

In Stone Town: 236 Hurumzi 0777 423266 Al Minar 0779 666 690

Africa House Hotel 0777 432340 Abdalla Guest House Annex 0777 421845 Al Johari 024 2236779 Beit Al Amaan/ House of Peace 0777 414364 Beyt-Al-Salaam Boutique Hotel 024 2232 592 Chavda Hotel 024 2232115 Clove Hotel 0777 484567 Coco De Mer 024 2230852 Dhow Palace Hotel 024 2233012 Flamingo Guest House 024 2232850 Garden Lodge 024 2233298 Hiliki House 0777 410131 Hotel Kiponda 024 2233052 Hotel Marine 0777 411102 Jafferji House & Spa 077 3740888 Jambo Guest House 024 2233779 Karibu Inn 024 2233058 Kisiwa House 024 2235654 Market Lodge 0754 641555 Malindi Guest House 024 2230165 Maru Maru Hotel 024 2238516 Mashariki Palace Hotel 024 2237232 Mazsons Hotel 024 2233694 Shangani Hotel 024 2233688 St Monica’s Guesthouse 024 2230773 Tembo Hotel & Apartments 024 2233005


Zanzibar Coffee House 024 2239319 Zanzibar Grand Palace Hotel 024 2235368 Zanzibar Palace Hotel 0773 079222 Zanzibar Serena Inn 024 2231015 Zenji Hotel 0776 705592 Upendo Lounge & Restaurant 0777 244492

hotels Out of Stone Town: BUBUBU: Imani Beach Villa 024 2250050 Salome’s Garden 024 2250050 MTONI: Maruhubi Beach Village 0777 451188 Mtoni Marine Centre 024 2250140 MBWENI : Mbweni Ruins 024 2235478 MAZIZINI: Zanzibar Beach Resort 024 2236033

hotels Zanzibar Beaches: BWEJUU: Mustapha’s Nest 024 2240069 Fontaine Garden Village 0713 419451 Palm Beach Inn 0777 411155 Robinson’s Place 0777 413479 Sunrise Hotel 024 2240170 Twisted Palm Village 0776 130275 CHWAKA: Chwaka Bay Bungalows 024 2240289

CHUINI : Hakuna Matata Beach Lodge 0777 454892 Mangrove Lodge 0777 436954 DONGWE: Baraza Resort & Spa 077 444330 Breezes Beach Club 0774 440884-5 The Palms 0774 440881-2 Dongwe Ocean view 0777 835515 JAMBIANI: Blue Oyster Hotel 024 2240163 Casa del Mar 0777 455446 Gomani Guest House 024 2240154 Kimte 024 2240212 Pakachi Beach Hotel 0777 423331 Visitor’s Inn 024 2240150 Red Monkey Lodge 024 2240207 KIZIMKAZI: Dolphin View Village 0777 865501 Dolphin Shadow Guesthouse 0777 495491 Karamba Resort 0773 166406 The Residence Zanzibar 024 5555000 KIWENGWA: Bravo Club 0777 414480 Bluebay Beach Resort 024 2240241 Kiwengwa Beach Club Village 0777 414351 Melia Resort 0774 444477 Sultan Sands 0774 444531 Reef View Bandas 0777 413294 Shooting Star Inn 0777 414166

KENDWA: Amaan Kendwa Beach Resort 024 2240026 Kendwa Rocks 0777 415475 La Rosa Dei Venti 0777 411314 Les Toits de Palme 0777 418548 Sunset Bungalows 0777 414647 White Sand Bungalows 0777 425219 MANGWAPANI Sea Cliff Resort & Spa 0767 702241 MATEMWE: Azanzi Beach Hotel 0775 044171 Matemwe Bungalows 0777 425788 Kasha Boutique Hotel 0776 676611 Matemwe Beach Village 0777 417250 Nyota Beach Bungalows 0777 484303

Kandili Villa 0776 676611 MICHAMVI: Karafuu Hotel 0777 413647 Kichanga Lodge 0773 175124 Ras Michamvi Beach Resort 0777 428178 Sultan Palace 024 2240173 NUNGWI: Amaan Bungalows 024 2240026 Flame Tree Cottages 024 2240100 Diamond La Gemma Dell’Est 024 2240087 Double Tree Hotel (Hilton) 024 2240476 Essque Zalu 077 8683960 Langi Langi Beach 024 2240470 Mnarani Beach Cottages 024 2240494

057


Ras Nungwi Hotel 024 0040478 Sazani Beach Hotel 024 2240014 Star of the East 024 2240175 Z Hotel 0774 266266 Smiles Beach Hotel 0773 444105 PAJE: Arabian Nights Hotel 024 2240190 Hakuna Majiwe 0777 454505 Jaribu Beach Hotel 0777 817716 Kitete 024 2240226 Kinazi Upepo 0777 497495 Paje By Night 0777 460710 Paje Ndame Village 0777 863421 Paradise Beach Bungalows 024 2231387 PONGWE: Pongwe Beach Resort 0784 336181 Santa Maria Coral Park 0777 432655 PWANI MCHANGANI: Mchangani Beach Lodge 0773 569821 Ocean Paradise Resort 0774 440990 Mapenzi Beach Club 0774 414268 Sandies Neptune Pwani Beach Resort & Spa 024 2233449 Diamond Dream of Zanzibar 0757 619061 UNGUJA UKUU: Menai Bay Beach Bungalows 0773 179244 UROA: Tamarind Beach Hotel 0747 413709

058

Uroa White Villa 0741 488520 Zanzibar Safari Club 0777 410318 Chumbe Island Coral Park 024 2231040 Chapwani Private Island 0777 433102 Mnemba Island 024 2233110 PEMBA ISLAND: Bomani Guest House 024 2454384 Fundu Lagoon 024 2232926 Jondeni Guest House 024 2456042 Le Taven Hotel 024 2452660 Pemba Misali Sunset Beach 0775 044713 Pemba Clove Inn 024 2452784 Pemba Crown Hotel 024 2454191 Sharook Guest House 024 2454386 Swahili Divers Guest House 024 2452786 The Manta Resort 0776 718852 MAFIA ISLAND: Chole Mjini 0787 712427 Mafia Island Lodge 022 2601530

Pole Pole 022 260 064

spas Mrembo Spa 077 7430117 Cinnamon Spa 077 7908000 Window to Africa (Jafferji House) 077 3740888

shops Aromas of Zanzibar 0716 097681 Art Gallery 0778 933144 Blue Gems 0782 786000 Doreen Mashika 0767 369777 Gem Centre 024 2232937 Kanga Kabisa 0763 404396 Kihaga Textile 0774 223615 Memories of Zanzibar 024 2239376 Zanzibar Gallery 024 2232721 Zanzibar Secrets 0774 000005 Zawadi Chest 024 2231390

airlines Mango Airlines 0774 305165 Air Tanzania Corporation 024 2230213 Auric Air 0783 223334 Coastal Aviation 024 2233112 Emirates 024 2234950 Ethiopian Airlines 0242231526 Fly 540 0769 540540 Kenya Airways 024 2232041 Oman Air 024 5311111 Precision Air 024 2234520 ZanAir Ltd 024 2233670

ferries Ferry Companies Azam Marine 024 2231655 Flying Horse 0784 472497 Sea Express Services 024 2234690 Zanzibar Ports Corporation 024 2232857


emergency Ferry timetable: The following ferry details are liable to change without notice and we strongly advise you to confirm with the ferry company prior to booking. Times may also differ on Sundays. TO ZANZIBAR 07.30 • 10.30 12.00 slow boat 14.00 • 16.00 TO DAR ES SALAAM 07.00 • 10.00 • 13.00 • 15.45

banks Barclays Bank 024 223773/4 Federal Bank of the Middle East 024 2238936 National Bank of Commerce 024 2231541 People’s Bank of Zanzibar 024 2231118

DTB 024 2236930 CRDB 024 2238193 EXIM Bank 024 2237194/95

consulates Egypt China India Mozambique Oman Sweden

024 2230726 024 2232547 024 2230720 024 2230049 024 2231235 077 7170471

dive centres ONE OCEAN: Bluebay Beach Resort 0777 414332 Ocean Paradise 0777 453892 Matemwe Beach Village 0777 473128 Melia Hotel 0774 164816 Neptune Pwani 0779 557087

Ambulance 112 Fire 111 Stone Town Police 999 024 2238374 Madema Police Station KENDWA: 024 2230771 Zanzibar Watersports Malindi Police Station 0773 235030 024 2230772  Police headquarters MAFIA ISLAND: Blue World Diving, Kinasi 024 2230246  Lodge HOSPITAL 0787 726147 Afya Medical Center MICHAMVI: 024 2231228 Al-Rahma Hospital Karafuu Beach Resort & 0774 889933 Dive centre 0777 413647/8   CLINIC NUNGWI: Dr Mehta’s Hospital Divine Diving and Yoga 0777 419999 0777 771914 Driving Doctors East Africa Diving 077 3110220 0777 420588 Stone Town Medical Clinic Zanzibar Watersports, 077 7777112 Zanzibar Medical Group Paradise 024 2233134 0773 781281 24 hour emergency Ras Nungwi Beach 0777 410954 0777 417316 International Medical PEMBA: Centre of ZNZ DIVE 710, Fundu Lagoon 0773 904230 0774 438668 Dental &Eye Care : Swahili Divers Zanzibar HELP Foundation 0773 176737 0779 272 600

059


Tide Calendar 2014 APRIL

New moon

Last quarter

Full moon

First quarter

DAY

HIGH

5:00am / 3.93m 5:35am / 3.82m

LOW

HIGH

LOW

HIGH

12:07pm / 0.29m 12:40pm / 0.54m 1:13pm / 0.85m 1:50pm / 1.17m 2:38pm / 1.49m 4:10pm / 1.74m 6:47pm / 1.66m 7:52pm / 1.38m 8:32pm / 1.08m 9:05pm / 0.80m 9:36pm / 0.55m 10:07pm / 0.34m 10:37pm / 0.20m 11:09pm / 0.13m 11:42pm / 0.15m

6:24pm / 3.90m 6:58pm / 3.63m 7:35pm / 3.32m 8:20pm / 3.00m 9:30pm / 2.73m 11:09pm / 2.61m

12:21pm / 0.47m 1:01pm / 0.68m 1:49pm / 0.95m 2:53pm / 1.24m 4:34pm / 1.40m 6:33pm / 1.26m 7:45pm / 0.94m 8:36pm / 0.61m 9:19pm / 0.35m 9:57pm / 0.18m 10:33pm / 0.12m 11:07pm / 0.14m

6:38pm / 3.86m 7:25pm / 3.61m 8:24pm / 3.32m 9:46pm / 3.07m 11:18pm / 2.98m

HIGH

LOW

HIGH

5:25pm / 4.02m 5:58pm / 3.84m 6:20am / 3.29m 6:56am / 3.09m 7:37am / 2.89m 8:32am / 2.70m 9:47am / 2.59m 11:11am / 2.61m 12:23pm / 2.78m 1:17pm / 3.02m 2:00pm / 3.29m 2:38pm / 3.56m 3:14pm / 3.81m 3:50pm / 4.01m 4:27pm / 4.14m 5:06pm / 4.17m 5:47pm / 4.10m 6:16am / 3.45m 7:05am / 3.32m 8:03am / 3.16m 9:11am / 3.05m 10:28am / 3.03m 11:44am / 3.14m 12:52pm / 3.33m 1:49pm / 3.54m 2:37pm / 3.73m 3:19pm / 3.87m 3:57pm / 3.94m 4:32pm / 3.94m 5:05pm / 3.88m 5:38pm / 3.78m

11:41pm / 0.25m

5:16pm / 4.22m 5:50pm / 4.11m 6:08am / 3.63m 6:42am / 3.38m 7:17am / 3.10m 7:57am / 2.81m 8:57am / 2.55m 10:33am / 2.41m 12:17pm / 2.49m 1:28pm / 2.73m 2:13pm / 3.02m 2:47pm / 3.30m 3:19pm / 3.57m 3:48pm / 3.79m 4:19pm / 3.97m 4:50pm / 4.07m 5:23pm / 4.09m 5:59pm / 4.02m 6:23am / 3.44m 7:06am / 3.23m 8:00am / 3.00m 9:14am / 2.81m 10:47am / 2.78m 12:13pm / 2.96m 1:22pm / 3.26m 2:15pm / 3.58m 3:00pm / 3.85m 3:40pm / 4.04m 4:17pm / 4.12m 4:52pm / 4.11m

11:27pm / -0.00m

12:41am / 3.07m 1:46am / 3.25m 2:39am / 3.43m 3:23am / 3.57m 4:02am / 3.64m 4:39am / 3.64m

11:00am / 0.00m 11:34am / 0.10m 12:01am / 0.15m 12:36am / 0.39m 1:11am / 0.69m 1:48am / 1.01m 2:34am / 1.32m 3:47am / 1.57m 6:10am / 1.59m 7:29am / 1.37m 8:12am / 1.12m 8:46am / 0.87m 9:16am / 0.65m 9:44am / 0.47m 10:13am / 0.34m 10:42am / 0.27m 11:13am / 0.26m 11:45am / 0.33m 12:18am / 0.26m 12:58am / 0.45m 1:43am / 0.71m 2:40am / 0.99m 3:59am / 1.20m 5:47am / 1.20m 7:08am / 1.00m 8:03am / 0.74m 8:47am / 0.51m 9:25am / 0.33m 10:02am / 0.24m 10:36am / 0.23m

DAY

HIGH

LOW

Thu 1 Fri 2 Sat 3 Sun 4 Mon 5 Tue 6 Wed 7 Thu 8 Fri 9 Sat 10 Sun 11 Mon 12 Tue 13 Wed 14 Thu 15 Fri 16 Sat 17 Sun 18 Mon 19 Tue 20 Wed 21 Thu 22 Fri 23 Sat 24 Sun 25 Mon 26 Tue 27 Wed 28 Thu 29 Fri 30 Sat 31

5:13am / 3.58m 5:47am / 3.46m

11:10am / 0.30m 11:43am / 0.44m 12:15am / 0.42m 12:49am / 0.64m 1:26am / 0.88m 2:08am / 1.12m 3:02am / 1.34m 4:24am / 1.47m 6:07am / 1.42m 7:12am / 1.25m 7:57am / 1.04m 8:34am / 0.82m 9:08am / 0.63m 9:42am / 0.47m 10:16am / 0.35m 10:52am / 0.31m 11:30am / 0.34m 12:08am / 0.18m 12:51am / 0.34m 1:37am / 0.56m 2:32am / 0.80m 3:39am / 1.01m 5:04am / 1.10m 6:27am / 1.03m 7:30am / 0.88m 8:19am / 0.72m 9:01am / 0.59m 9:40am / 0.50m 10:16am / 0.47m 10:50am / 0.50m 11:25am / 0.57m

Tue 1 Wed 2 Thu 3 Fri 4 Sat 5 Sun 6 Mon 7 Tue 8 Wed 9 Thu 10 Fri 11 Sat 12 Sun 13 Mon 14 Tue 15 Wed 16 Thu 17 Fri 18 Sat 19 Sun 20 Mon 21 Tue 22 Wed 23 Thu 24 Fri 25 Sat 26 Sun 27 Mon 28 Tue 29 Wed 30

12:40am / 2.69m 1:42am / 2.89m 2:25am / 3.11m 3:01am / 3.32m 3:34am / 3.50m 4:05am / 3.63m 4:37am / 3.69m 5:10am / 3.68m 5:45am / 3.60m

New moon

Last quarter

Full moon

First quarter

MAY

12:39am / 2.74m 1:34am / 2.92m 2:19am / 3.11m 2:59am / 3.29m 3:37am / 3.44m 4:14am / 3.54m 4:53am / 3.58m 5:33am / 3.55m

12:11am / 2.95m 1:18am / 3.03m 2:15am / 3.14m 3:02am / 3.25m 3:43am / 3.33m 4:21am / 3.37m 4:56am / 3.37m 5:30am / 3.33m

12:17pm / 0.64m 12:51pm / 0.89m 1:29pm / 1.15m 2:14pm / 1.41m 3:21pm / 1.63m 5:21pm / 1.69m 6:58pm / 1.50m 7:51pm / 1.22m 8:31pm / 0.92m 9:07pm / 0.65m 9:41pm / 0.41m 10:16pm / 0.23m 10:52pm / 0.12m 11:29pm / 0.11m

6:31pm / 3.62m 7:06pm / 3.37m 7:49pm / 3.10m 8:46pm / 2.85m 10:04pm / 2.67m 11:28pm / 2.64m

12:11pm / 0.45m 12:56pm / 0.65m 1:48pm / 0.89m 2:53pm / 1.14m 4:22pm / 1.30m 6:06pm / 1.24m 7:23pm / 1.02m 8:18pm / 0.77m 9:02pm / 0.57m 9:41pm / 0.42m 10:17pm / 0.34m 10:51pm / 0.32m 11:25pm / 0.36m 11:58pm / 0.44m

6:31pm / 3.93m 7:21pm / 3.68m 8:21pm / 3.39m 9:33pm / 3.13m 10:53pm / 2.97m


dar es salaam city

guide places of

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Dar es Salaam Harbour Ilala Municple Council Offices Kisutu Market Hindu Temple Askari Monument New Post Office Old Post Office St Josephs Cathedral City Hall United Nations British Council Central Library UNICEF Red Cross Nyumba ya Sanaa Art Gallery Gymkhana Sports Club Las Vegas Casino National Museum Karimjee Hall Aga Khan Hospital Diamond Jubilee Hall, Exhibition Centre

1

10 16

19 25 31

33

New Africa Hotel Hyatt Regency Hotel YMCA Serena Dar es Salaam Holiday Inn Courtyard Hotel

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dar es salaam & arusha listings

bars Baraza Grill, Cafe & Bar (Holiday Inn) 022 2137575 Q-Bar 0754 282474 The Pub 022 2600893 Club Bilicanas 022 2117869

restaurants Dar es Salaam: Addis in Dar 0713 266299 Akemi 0687 360360 Anghiti 022 2701866 Arabica Coffee Shop 022 2600288 Azuma 022 2600893 Bandari Grill (New Africa Hotel) 022 2117050 Baraza Bar & Grill (Holiday Inn) 022 2137575 Beijing Restaurant 022 2775141 Cozy Garden 0754 089748 Cynics Cafe 022 2138422

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Epi d’Or 022 2136006 Euro Pub 022 2617371 Kivulini Restaurant (Holiday Inn) 022 2137575 L’Arca di Noe’ 0713 601282 La Dolce Vita 0713 782497 La Trattoria Jan 0754 282969 Maasai Bar 022 2600288 Manchu Wok 0784 722227 Mediterraneo Restaurant 022 2618359 Oysterbay Grill 022 2600133 Serengeti 022 2112416 Shooters Grill 0754 304733 Sweet Eazy 0755 754074 The Grill 022 2121074 The Mashua Waterfront 022 2600380 The Terrace 022 2600893 Trade Winds 022 2112416 White Sands Hotel & Resort 022 2647620

The Art of coffee 0732 996283 Cafe X 022 9844575 Arusha: Cafe Bamboo Restaurant 027 2506451 Le Jacaranda 027 2544624 Mezza Luna 027 2504381

hotels Dar es Salaam: Akana Lodge 022 2775261 Coral Beach 022 2601928 Double Tree 022 2210000 Golden Tulip 022 2601442 Holiday Inn 022 2137575 Kunduchi 022 2650050 Kilimanjaro Hotel Kempinski 022 2131111 Mediterraneo Hotel 0754 812567 New Africa Hotel 022 2117050 Oysterbay Hotel 022 2600352 Palm Beach Hotel 022 2122931

Peacock Hotel 022 2120334 Protea Apartments 022 2666665 Q-Bar and Guest House 0754 261919 Royal Palm Hotel 022 2112416 Royal Mirage 0713 267788 Sea Cliff Hotel 022 2600380 Starlight Hotel 022 2119387 Swiss Garden Hotel 022 2153219 The Courtyard 022 2130130 Urban Rose Hotel & Apartments 022 2127777 White Sands Hotel & Resort 022 2647620 The Souk 022 2600893 Arusha: Arusha Crown Hotel 027 2544161 Arusha Naaz Hotel 027 2502087 Hotel 77 027 2503800 Impala Hotel 027 2508448 Karama Lodge 027 2500359


Kibo Palace Hotel 027 2548852 Mount Meru Game Lodge 027 2553643 Manyara Wildlife Safaricamp 0712 332211 Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 027 2553638 Novotel Mount Meru 027 2502711 Rivertrees Country Inn 027 2553894 The Arusha Hotel 027 2507777 The Ngurdoto Mountain Lodge 027 2555217

transport Airlines: Air India 022 2152642 Air Malawi 0741 321315 Air Tanzania Corporation 022 2110245-8 Air Zimbabwe 022 2123526 British Airways 022 2113820-2 Coastal Aviation 022 2843293 Emirates 022 2116100-3 Ethiopian Airlines 022 2117063-5 Kenya Airways 022 2119376-7 KLM Royal Dutch Airlines 022 2113336-7 South African Airways 022 2117044 Swiss Air 022 2118870-2 Yemen Air 022 2126036 Zambia Airways 022 2115381 Air Charters: Coastal Aviation 022 2842700/01 Flightlink 022 2843073

Sky Aviation 022 2844410 Tanzanair 022 2843131/3 Tanzania Government Flights 022 2138638 Zantas Air 022 2843351 Tropical Air 024 2232511 Ferrie Companies: Azam Marine 022 2134013 Africa Shipping 022 2113218 Sea Express Services 022 2137049 Sea Star Services 022 2139996 Zanzibar Sea Ferries 022 2123324

banks Barclays Bank 022 2602674 CRDB Bank 022 2117441 National Bank of Commerce 022 2111970

embassies Canada China Egypt France Germany Great Britain India Ireland Italy Kenya Malawi Mozambique Netherlands Norway Pakistan South Africa Spain Uganda USA Zambia Zimbabwe

022 2163300 022 2667586 022 2113591 022 2198800 022 2117409 022 2110101 022 2600714 022 2602355 022 22115935 022 2668285 0784 481741 022 2124673 022 2110000 022 2118807 022 2117630 022 2601800 022 2662180 022 2667391 022 2668001 022 2125529 022 2116789

international dialing codes Australia 000 61 Austria 000 43 Belgium 000 32 Botswana 000 276 Canada 000 1 China 000 86 Denmark 000 45 Egypt 000 20 Ethiopia 000 251 Finland 000 358 France 000 33 Germany 000 49 India 000 91 Ireland 000 353 Italy 000 39 Japan 000 81

Netherlands 000 31 Norway 000 47 Oman 000 968 Saudi Arabia 000 966 South Africa 000 27 Spain 000 34 Sweden 000 46 Switzerland 000 41 Turkey 000 90 UK 000 44 USA 000 1 Zambia 000 260 Zimbabwe 000 263

Kenya

Nairobi 00 52 Mombasa 00 511

Malindi 00 123

Tanzania

Dar es Salaam 022 Arusha 027 Kilimanjaro 027 Moshi 027 Tanga 027 Dodoma 026 Morogoro 023 Mwanza 028 Tabora 026 Zanzibar 024

Uganda Entebbe 00 42 Kampala 00 41 Jinja 00 43

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eco-tourism Tanzania DID YOU KNOW?

The highest and lowest points of the African continent can both be found in Tanzania. It is a well known fact that Mt Killimanjaro is the highest peak in Africa at 5,895 m. But few people are aware that the lowest point in Africa can be found at the bottom of Lake Tanganyika, which is 1,470 m deep. Pics by Javed Jafferji

• Choose wisely – make sure your tour provider is reputable. Endorse eco-tourism organisations whenever possible, this will encourage other organisations to consider the benefits of ecotourism. • Let your tour operator know if they are doing something potentially damaging to the environment or to local people. • Think small! Staying in bed and breakfasts, village houses and locally owned accommodation benefits local families. • Don't buy large shells, turtle shells, or pieces of coral from street or beach vendors. These are mostly taken from endangered reefs and buying them actively encourages the destruction of Tanzania's ocean fauna. • Purchase local products instead

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of imported items, but remember that many local handicrafts are carved from indigenous trees. Avoid hard woods such as ebony and bamba kofi as these trees take centuries to grow and are now endangered through extensive forest cutting. • Do not litter or remove anything from the places you visit – including shells. • Water is a precious resource; use it sparingly wherever possible. • Never touch, chase or harass the marine life or wildlife. • Visit the main tourist destinations but get off the tourist track too. Visit the places where the locals go. Try to learn some Kiswahili! • Don't give presents of money to children as this encourages begging.

WH E N I N Z AN Z I B AR • Please remember and respect that Zanzibar is a Muslim society. Don't walk around towns and villages dressed in bikinis, miniskirts or similar clothing. Women should cover their shoulders and wear garments that reach below the knee. Men should not go shirtless. Don’t go topless on the beaches! Swimwear is acceptable on tourist beaches, but not if there are fisherman or seaweed harvesters nearby. • Although alcohol is freely available, drunken behaviour is considered offensive. • Ask permission before taking pictures of people or private houses. • Be careful walking on beaches late at night or early in the morning. Don’t carry valuables or walk alone. • Don't accept tours or transport from unlicensed tour guide – their services are illegal and unreliable. Only use reputable tour agencies or official government guides.



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