TALLINN MUSIC WEEK
WONDERS L A R U T A N N E V E S ESTONIAâ€™S
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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 3
Contents ABOUT ESTONIA
The wild strawberry field
ebruary 24th marked 95 years since the declaration of Estonian independence. The occasion was celebrated with the annual presidential reception, held at the Estonia Theatre in Tallinn this year, and a concert. The 24th was a beautiful sunny day, the first one we had seen in quite a while, and the blue, black, and white flag hung proudly in front of houses and buildings throughout the city and the Old Town. President Toomas Hendrik Ilves, in his address to Estonians at home and abroad made the following statement: “All that is dear and sweet does not have to be big and grand. Estonia is like a wild strawberry: pristine and small, difficult to find and those who do not know how to, fail to recognise and value it. But
Area: 45,227 km2. Population: about 1,350,000. Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000. Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991. Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are nonreligious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic. Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted. Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.
once we possess it, once it is ours, then it is one of the best things of all. Our home is a wild strawberry field." ”Words that could not be truer. The best way to become acquainted with Estonia is to learn about its history. In this issue we have a guide to Tallinn museums that house exhibits about the last century of Estonian history. Or if indulgence is more your style, our Tallinn café guide will show you some of the city’s best, and oldest. Take a bit of Estonia home with you. Our restaurant page has a recipe by chef Emmanuel Wille, inspired by the traditional Estonian ingredient, kama.
3 editorial 4-5 transport 6 March events 8 Tallinn Music Week 9 nature 10-11 shopping 12-13 restaurants 14 beauty 15 museums 16-17 nightlife 19 sights
Happy travels! Kristina Lupp Editor-in chief
10-11 shopping Next season’s shoe trends Stockmann
01 ESTONIA VS. ANDORRA On 3 March in Tallinn, Estonia will play Andorra in a FIFA World Cup qualifying match. The match will start at 19.00 at A. Le Coq Arena. Tickets 8-10€.
02 EASTER AT THE OPEN AIR MUSEUM Celebrate Easter at the Estonian Open Air Museum in Rocca al Mare on 31March. Enjoy swinging on the community swing, egg painting, and tasting traditional Easter foods.
03 STARS OF BALLET IN TALLINN
Vabank Pudel Zetod Funeral for a Friend Example
The International World Stars of Ballet will bring dancers from New York, London, and Berlin to the Nokia Concert Hall April 8. Top dancers like Venus Villa, Rolando Sarabia, and Yonah Acosta will perform in Tallinn.
04 SIMPLE SESSION 2013 This competition continues to draw competitors from all over the world, and is broadcast to millions internationally. It is a weekend packed full of extreme sport, with over 200 BMX cyclists and skateboarders competing. 16-17 March, Saku Suurhall, Tallinn.
After being closed for six months for renovations, the Kadriorg Palace, home of the Kadriorg Art Museum is now open to the public. The museum houses Estonia’s largest collection of Western European and Russian art from the 16th century onwards. The Kadriorg Palace is one of the most beautiful examples of baroque architecture in Northern Europe.
Pick up your free copy at:
Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp email@example.com Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov
PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O
'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel
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05 KADRIORG PALACE RE-OPENS
4 New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinnâ€™s Old Town.
Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.
Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzelsâ€Ś Always up to 500g
11 2 KOPLI
Childrenâ€™s Menu Available PELGURANNA
All dishes prepared by our German chef.
New location: RĂźĂźtli 28/30, Old Town
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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E â„˘ M A R C H 2 0 1 3
PORT A, B terminals D terminal
PELGULINN RAILWAY STATION
TICKETS AND ROUTES
VIRU OLD TOWN
Non-residents and tourists can purchase a ticket for 1.60â‚Ź from theMERIMETSA driver. Exact change is always appreciated. And donâ€™t forget to validate your ticket. You can also purchase a smartcard. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-kiosks, and are transferable. Or, save yourself time and money by purchasing a Tallinn Card. The Tallinn Card allows you to use public transport for free, but remember to validate by touching your card to the orange reader.
11 3 3
SIKUPILLI VEERENNI BUS
3 4 TONDI
TALLINN CITY TOUR
Take a tour of Tallinn on the red doubledecker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.
KOPLI KALAMAJA PELGULINN
ROCCA AL MARE
2 2 44 ĂœLEMISTE
Further information on routes and timetables: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#plan/
THE BEST STEAK YOUâ€™VE EVER HAD
Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13â‚Ź. www.citytour.ee
â– Transport â– BY TRAIN:
â– BY BUS: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee From the bus station to the city: tram no.2, bus no. 17, no. 23 Ecolines â€“ www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line â€“ www.businessline.ee Lux Express â€“ www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans â€“ www.temptrans.ee
â– BY SEA: From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2
TO/FROM HELSINKI EckerĂś Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee
TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com
TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com
Train Station (Balti jaam)Toompuistee 37, Tallinn From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minute walk to the Old Town www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee
â– BY AIR: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K. www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng FAST CLASS By Copterline â€“ www. copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres, from the Port.
â– Customs Regulations Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia.
WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM!
An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia 76 historical buildings, a village store from the 1930s, traditional Estonian food served at the inn Easter celebrations on March 31 Spring Fair on May 1 Open daily at 10-17. Buses: 21 and 21B from the Baltijaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square. VabaĂľhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.
ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS. IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES: 200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO
Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers.
Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission. Live animals and plants, as well as rare animal and plant species and also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited. Pirated materials are prohibited. Estonian Tax and Customs, information for the traveller: http://www.emta.ee/index.php?id=1089 p p p
â– Airport and Port Transfers Getting to the port:
Free Bus from the Port
The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 will get you there, and pass by the airport as well. The MĂľigu Bus Line also passes through the port. For more information and timetables visit: http://soiduplaan. tallinn. ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60â‚Ź.
The Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. The name of the bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Shopping Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45. The Rocca al Mare Prisma supermarket has a free bus that also passes through the port terminals everyday between 10â€“17. Please consult the website for departure times: www.prismamarket.ee/prismabuss. php?lang=fin
Getting to the Airport The distance between the Viru Shopping Centre and the Tallinn airport is 4 km. The no. 2 bus goes to the airport and the schedule can be found at http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ab. The name of the Viru Shopping Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is called Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60â‚Ź
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Hire a car You donâ€™t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport: Budget â€“ www.budget.ee Europcar â€“ www.europcar.ee Hertz â€“ www.hertz.ee National â€“ www.europcar.ee Sixt Rent A Car â€“ www.sixt.com There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia, turn to page 6-7 in this guide or visit www. mnt.ee.
Easy Car Rent â€“ www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent â€“ www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent â€“ www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent â€“ www.yesrent.ee
SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.
-20% -50% -70%
Useful Information No international driverâ€™s license required. It is important for drivers to follow the following regulations: â– Blood alcohol level must be 0. â– Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections and cyclists. â– The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas, the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, but only in summer.
â– All cars must carry a warning triangle,
wheel chocks, first-aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night. â– In case of collision, and in the event of injury, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. â– Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.
Important I I S I 1 1 0110, , P E EMERGENCY L A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 ,AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H). PU H E L I N NPhone U M E RNumbers: O T : P O LPOLICE USEFUL VOCABULARY The car has broken down . . The car has run out of petrol Here is an accident. . . . . . . There is a block in the road . Where is the car repair?. . . .
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PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045 STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044 +/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043
Auto lĂ¤ks katki Bensiin sai otsa Siin on avarii Teel on ummik Kus on autoremonditĂśĂśkoda/kummiparandus?
DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN 5"356./5 5"--*//rXXXDPOUNPEBFF 5FM r0QFO.PO'SJ 4BU
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Parking in Tallinn The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock. This does not apply in parking lots. Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour, and minute of purchase. Shopping centres are equipped with an automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid. Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking may result in a fine of 20ď™Ž. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64ď™Ž, with
the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410. Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are from overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value. Please read the signs carefully.
The first 15 minutes are free at: â– Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26â‚Ź Payment required Mâ€“F 7â€“19, Sa 8â€“15. Free on Sundays. â– City Centre 15 min / 0,58â‚Ź Payment required Mâ€“F 7â€“19, Sa 8â€“15. Free on Sundays. â– Old Town 15 min / 1,15â‚Ź Payment required 24h, 7 days.
â– Tallinn Taxis â– Day and evening (23.00â€“6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo. â– For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5Â km should cost about 6â‚Ź. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher. For a listing of taxi fares, please visit: www.taksod.net
Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a receipt then the passenger is not obliged to pay. If you feel that the price was unreasonable, then make note of the car registration number, date of journey, and the name of the taxi company.
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â– If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: firstname.lastname@example.org and/or The Baltic Guide: email@example.com. Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.
â– It pays to be careful when choos<JKFE@8 JkfZbdXee >FEJ@FI@ ing a taxi, because some companies GJK% K8IKLDEK% â– From the airport to the city cenhave much higher rates than others. C@@M8C8@8 tre, a taxi will cost between 7-10â‚Ź Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear AL?B<EK8C@ with the following taxi companies: window and on the vehicleâ€™s dashboard. The GvIELDEK% Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink minimum fee must be displayed on the price Takso. These three taxi companies have a list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing contract with the Tallinn Airport, and will be rate. The cost of the trip is always the displayed taxiwaiting outside the main entrance in the taxi queue. meter rate, as an â€˜agreed rateâ€™ will not always be honoured.
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upcoming events ■ ALEGRÍA - Cirque du Soleil
■ Estonian Music Days 2013
PERFORMANCES FROM APRIL 3-7, 2013
This year's festival will focus on juxtapositions and oppositions. Composers, musicians, time periods and cultural fields will be compared. Estonian Music Days have been held since 1979, and focus on new Estonian composers and their work.
See this famous performance live in Tallinn in April. Be amazed by the acrobatics, outstanding choreography and luxurious costumes. Music also plays a big part in the Cirque du Soleil performance. This year’s theme “Alegría” means “jubilation” in Spanish, and portrays a universe of old and young, rich and poor, all resisting the passing of time and the social transformations that go along with it. 3-7 April, Saku Arena, Tallinn www.cirquedusoleil.com Tickets: www.ticketpro.ee
1 – 7 April, Tallinn www.helilooja.ee
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■ JAZZKAAR 2013 The 24th annual Jazzkaar jazz festival will take place from 19-28 April in the unique Marina Pavilion at the Port of Tallinn. Headliners are Zara McFarlane (UK), Hiromi (JPN), Gregory Porter (USA), and the New Quartet of the legendary composer-sax player Charles Lloyd featuring Jason Moran, Reuben Rogers, and Gregory Hutchinson. On Friday and Saturday evenings the Marina Pavilion will be transformed into a club with top performers, like Ultima Thule (EST), Naturally 7 (USA), along with some young bands and DJs. 19-28 April. Tallinn www.jazzkaar.ee Tickets: www.piletilevi.ee
SIMPLE SESSION This competition continues to draw competitors from all over the world, and is broadcast to millions internationally. It is a weekend packed full of extreme sport, with over 200 cyclists and skateboarders competing. If you love extreme sports, or are just curious – this is an event not to be missed! ■ Simpel Session 16-17 March Tallinn, Saku Arena www.session.ee/2011
GREGORIAN – The Epic Chants Tour 2013
WOMEN’S DAY at the Estonian Open-Air Museum Women’s Day on March 25 is a widely celebrated holiday in Estonia. Traditionally, by 25 March women had to have finish their handicrafts. Afterwards they would wear white, go to the pub and drink red drinks. Women’s Day also marked the beginning of spring. All women are invited to the Estonian Open Air Museum at
dawn to watch the sunrise, bring in spring, eat cake, and drink red drinks. ■
25 March Estonian Open Air Museum, Tallinn www.evm.ee
'WORLD FILM' - 10th Festival of Visual Culture The 10th Festival of Visual Culture will take place in Tartu. This year the theme is “World Film.” The festival will show a selection of anthropological and ethnographical documentaries from
around the world. A total of almost 50 documentaries will be shown throughout this week-long festival, along with special programmes, exhibitions, workshops, and meetings with filmmakers. ■
'World Film' - 10th Festival of Visual Culture 18- 24 March Tartu www.worldfilm.ee
The esemble Gregorian combines Gregorian singing styles with modern songs. The group formed in 1999, and have developed quite a following. They have recorded 12 albums, which have sold over 6 million copies. Gregorian have performed and recorded with many artists, including Sarah Brightman. Last year they released the album “Epic Chant,” which inclu-
des their version of “Batman Forever,” “Against All Odds,” and “Titanic.” New and older songs will be performed at the concert on 11 March, and their accompanying band will be comprised of musicians from all over Europe. ■
The Epic Chants Tour 2013 11 March 19:00 Tallinn, Nokia Concert Hall. www.kontserdimaja.ee
ORCHID EXHIBITION Orchids are a beautiful flower species, and their stunning flowers have intrigued green thumbs for years. Take this opportunity to admire these beautiful flowers in March in Tallinn at the Botanical Gardens. ■
2-10 March Tallinn Botanical Gardens www.botaanikaaed.ee
Tommy Hilfiger Month´s March and April
er g fi l l i H y m m The entire To es! c i r p e l b a t a e unb o t t n e m t r o overed QO” c is ass d s a h ia n iss Esto met M
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234 artists from 20 different countries, 50 venues, and some of the best music Tallinn has to offer.
Estonia Ranks 35 in Energy Sustainability Index Estonia has risen three places in the Energy Sustainability Index but is still a long way from the 23rd position it achieved in 2010. The index measures energy performance and contextual attributes including political, societal and economic strengths, and was created by the World Energy Council. “Compared to other Nordic states, Estonia's decades-long dependence on environmentally unfriendly oil shale has been a burden on its energy sector,” said Minister of the Environment Keit PentusRosimannus The oil shale industry is responsible for 70 percent of sulfur emissions and 90 percent of CO2 emissions in Estonia.
The fifth annual festival will bring international artists to Tallinn.
New Museum Bill Could Open Door to More Foreign Exhibits The Cabinet approved a bill for a new museum act in February, which would designate the state responsible for any damage to foreign artworks lent to Estonia. This could mean more international exhibits coming to the country. “The proposal will create national compensation measures to cover any damage foreign exhibits might suffer,” said a press release from the Ministry of Culture. “Many such shows have been cancelled due to high insurance fees or because museums do not accept private insurance,” explained Minister of Culture Rein Lang.
First Law Digitally Signed Speaker of Parliament Ene Ergma digitally signed an Estonian legislative act for the first time in February. It was a signature for an amendment to the European Union CAP Implementation Act. The law was subsequently passed with 72 votes in favour.
Giant Ash Heap Converted to Ski Hill A giant ash heap in Kiviõli was converted into a ski hill and resort. The 90 metrehigh ash heap is one of seven in north eastern Estonia. These heaps are a byproduct of oil shale production. The ski area cost 6 million euros to build and has two lifts, with plans to build more in the future. There is a 120 metre half pipe, and the longest slope can reach 700 metres in length depending on snow conditions. During the summer months, the hill may be used for activities like off-roading and hiking.
ESTONIAN MUSIC at its best! visitors will have access to great concert venues," explained Sildna. The total number of concert venues this year is about 50, which is double from last year. Many Estonian bands have gotten their start at Tallinn Music Week, the most well known being Ewert and the Two Dragons. Last year, the band gave 110 concerts outside of Estonia and was signed to Warner Bros. They also won the European Border Breaker prize. Sildna predicts that the next big band will be Elephants from Neptune. They will also be performing at this year’s festival. ■
TEXT: MIKKO VIRTA, KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS: TALLINN MUSIC WEEK
“Our goal is this: we want to draw in music fans and tourists to the festival. It is not just a festival for the music industry. We continue to aspire to make it festival better each year,” explained the Tallinn Music Week director Helen Sildna. What’s new this year – TMW Restaurant Festival. From April 4-6 enjoy tasting appetisers and tapas at 10-15 different restaurants across town. “The idea is that the visitor to Tallinn can go to different restaurants and try different dishes before heading out to a gig,” explains Sildna. During the day, free concerts will take place in different cafes, galleries, and bookstores. At night, Tallinn clubs and bars will be filled with the sounds of the best new music. Listen to everything from
Tallinn Music Week 4- 6 April, 2013 ■ Pick up your festival pass for 35€ from Piletilevi or Ticket Pro sales kiosks. Individual event tickets will be on sale from the beginning of March. www.tallinnmusicweek.ee
■ TMW at-a-glance: Who? 234 artists from 20 countries (there are too many to name here!) What? 5th annual music festival showcasing Estonian and international music Helen Sildna - TMW Director
electronic, ethnic, metal, indie, jazz, classical and contemporary. This year, a record number of 234 bands will take part in the festival, of which 165 are from Estonia! Bands from 20 different countries will come together in Tallinn from
places like Belarus, Iceland, Ukraine, and Russia. According to Sildna, Tallinn Music Week is about more than introducing new and interesting Estonian music, but also showing off Tallinn. “With the festival pass,
Where? KLUBI TAPPER, F-HOONE, CLUB HOLLYWOOD, VON KRAHLI TEATER, HOUSE OF THE BLACKHEADS, NO99 TEATER, WOODSTOCK/ROCKSTARS, ESTONIA CONCERT HALL, ROCK CAFÉ, BIBABO, NORDIC HOTEL FORUM, WABADUS, KÖLERI 2, KANUTI GILD SAAL, HOPNER HOUSE, SINILIND, SÕPRUD CINEMA When? April 4-6, 2013
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TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, TOOMAS TUUL, JAREK JÕEPERA, MIKKO VIRTA
This small country is filled with unique natural marvels. Many of these are areas that have been visited for centuries.
Estonia’s seven natural wonders 1. Jägala Waterfall About 8 meters high and 50 metres across, the Jägala waterfall is Estonia’s largest and one of the most beautiful sights in Harjumaa. Wonderful waterfalls can also be found in Keila and Valaste, though the latter is man-made. The Valaste viewing platform is currently closed.
7 5. Ontika Bank One of the most beautiful limestone banks can been on the shores of Saaremaa. The highest point of the Ontika Bank reaches up to 55 metres from sea level. The view over the sea is stunning.
2. Tuhala Witch's Well
In the spring, the water “boils over” the edges of the well. It is quite an interesting natural phenomena. The water enters the well through a series on underground rivers. If the autumn has been particularly wet, then the well can “boil over” at that time of year as well.
6. Taevaskoja The picturesque Ahja River runs through the shade of the sandstone cliffs. At their highest point, the cliffs reach over 22 metres in height from the river. It is said that every Estonian must visit Taevaskoja once each year. This place is certainly one of the most beautiful in Estonia.
3 3. Kaali Crater
This crater was formed on the island of Saaremaa by a meteorite thousands of years ago. The crater is filled with water and surrounding it are other small craters. During the summer concerts take place around the lake.
4. Tamme-Lauri Oak
7. Piusa Caves
Estonia is filled with magnificent trees; many species are even named after it. Over time, some of these sacred trees have become offering places. The country’s most beautiful oak can be found in southern Estonia in Urvaste, Võrumaa. The tree is about 700 years old and has a circumference of eight metres.
Even though these caves are man-made, they are still stunning to look at. The caves stretch over 100 of metres and were created when sand was dug out for glass making. Bats live in the caves, and in winter their numbers can reach thousands. A n d re i C h e r t k o v
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■ FIBIT (Fashion is back in Tallinn)
■ Women’s Secret at Solaris
Enjoy a fashion show while shopping in Tallinn’s most central shopping centre. This annual event showcases the latest designs for the upcoming season. Stop in for a quick peak, or stay for the afternoon.
The lingerie store Women’s Secret now has a location at Solaris. This brand was created for women by women, and is now the favourite underwear, sleeping and home wear brand of Spanish women.
08.03.2013 - 09.03.2013 Viru Centre www.virukeskus.ee
Women’s Secret Solaris Shopping Centre, 1st floor Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2
TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV
STEP INTO SPRING! Here’s a glimpse into next season’s hottest shoe trends for men and women. ■ TEXTURE This year’s spring styles are all about texture –different kinds of materials are used to make sure your feet stand out! Look for snake skin, textured leather, and spikes.
Aaltonen 79€ Clarks 99€
■ PASTEL Boots are never boring, especially if they are pink. The weather might not be warm, but pastel coloured boots say spring is in the air.
■ BRIGHT COLOURS Bright colours are sure to get noticed. Bring some colour back into your life with these striking styles.
Ten Points 129€
■ EYE-CATCHING HEEL A bold colourful heel can often be more striking than a boldly coloured shoe. These styles use classic design, but set themselves apart from the rest with a unique heel.
Ten Points 129€
■ MATERIALS Who said all shoes have to be made of leather? This season, women’s and men’s shoes are covered in pastel patterns.
Where to buy Select styles and sizes are available at ABC King and Kaubamaja shoe department. Kristiine keskus, Endla 45, Tallinn Rocca al Mare Kaubanduskeskus, Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn Viru Keskus, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2
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Spotlight: STOCKMANN Gourmet food, designer clothes, kitchen wares and electronics – what more could you ask for? TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV
Stockmann department store in Tallinn opened in 1993, and in 1996 the full sized department store was opened. By 2000 it expanded to be the largest department store in the Baltic States. It is a Finnish company that has been in business since the late 1800s, and now has locations in Latvia and Russia. Ask any ex-pat in Tallinn where they buy their meat, and the answer will most likely be Stockmann. In fact, this is the place to go for
many hard-to-find items. While slightly more expensive than some other stores in Tallinn, Stockmann offers top quality products and brands. The food department is impressive, with an excellent prepared foods counter, fresh meat and fish, and much more. Tourists will be interested in many of the other departments this five-story store has to offer. The main floor houses the cosmetics, delicatessen, flower shop, and deli. The second floor is full of stylish men’s and children’s fashions, as well as an internet café.
counted items from the company’s stores in Tallinn and Riga. Parking is available in the parking structure located next to the main building. The entrance is off of Liivalaia. Stockmann loyalty customers receive 1hour free parking with proof of purchase. For all other customers, the parking rate is 0,80/15 minutes. ■
Location Ladies clothing, including footwear and handbags can be found on the third floor. Children will be entertained on the fourth floor with clothing, shoes, and toys. Mum and Dad will not be too far away either –the electronics and appliances are located on the same floor. The fifth floor has a little bit of everything: a children’s play corner, restaurant, beauty salon, dry cleaners, travel agent, optician, Piletilevi ticket kiosk, as well as the impressive Weir Golf store and studio. Stockmann truly is the one stop shop.
The Stockmann Outlet can be found in the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre. You can find dis-
Stockmann Liivalaia 53, Tallinn, B3 www.stockmann.ee
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Discover the city one pastry at a time. ■ Maiasmokk has great pastries and an even better interior. The rooms have been used as a café for almost 200 years! Tables are small like in old time Parisian cafés. The walls are covered with wood and mirrors, originating from its heyday when the place was called Stude.
TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV
Tallinn has a true café culture. It started over 100 years ago with influences from Germany and Central Europe. Pre-war Tallinn was famous for its elegant cafés and names like Stude, Feischner, Kultas and Corso are still in the minds of some of Tallinn’s older residents. Estonian cakes are something to look forward to! Some of the best are made with pressed cottage cheese or fresh whipped cream. Enjoy cakes made with fresh Estonian berries as well. Perfect as an afternoon treat with a coffee!
Maiasmokk Pikk 16, Tallinn Old Town G2 http://kalev.ee/en/maiasmokkcafe/cafe ■ This café must be one of the best people watching spots in town. With an entire window as a wall facing onto the narrow Saiakang passage, sip on a coffee while enjoying free WiFi, and watching the people the go by. Pastries and freshly made salads line the display, and hot meals are available to order from the small kitchen.
■ Matilda is well situated between the lower and upper parts of Tallinn’s Old Town. This means you can stop in for a bite before making the climb up to Toompea. Everything at Matilda is made locally, using only fresh ingredients.
Saiakang Saiakang 3 Tallinn Old Town H2
Kohvik Matilda Lühike jalg 4, Tallinn Old Town I1 www.matilda.ee
■ Right next door to Kochi Ait Pub is the Kochi Kohvituba (or coffee room) in the Port district. The recently renovated warehouse turned café is the perfect place to enjoy a light lunch or coffee and a pastry. Light meals and snacks include soups, sandwiches, salads; and pastries and desserts are all prepared in house.
■ Reval Café has a few locations in the Old Town. The menu offers light meals, and the display is filled with appetising cakes and pastries.
Reval Café (Old Town locations) Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town I2 Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3 Vene 1, Tallinn Old Town H2 8 locations in Tallinn www.revalcafe.ee ■ Located right off the Town Hall Square, this must be one of Tallinn’s cosiest cafés. The low ceilings and the dim lighting add to this ambiance. Delicious cakes are on display, and the coffee is some of the best in town. Across the street you can smell the coffee roasting in the Kehrwieder roastery.
Kehrwieder Saiakang 1, Tallinn Old Town H2 www.kohvik.ee
Kochi Kohvituba Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3 www.kochiaidad.ee Reval Café
■ This just might be one of Tallinn’s best-kept secret lunch spots. Often forgotten by tourists, as it is located at the back of the Forum shopping Centre, it’s worth a stop for house-made cakes and pastries, or a soup-salad lunch combo, which changes daily. In the morning you can enjoy a filling bowl of porridge.
Bistroo Bonaparte Narva mnt 5, Tallinn B2 http://bonaparte.ee/bistro/about
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Legend: ■ € - Under 10€ ■ €€ - 11-25€ ■ €€€ - 25€ + (cost of 2 course meal per person)
An Estonian in Lyon In January, the head chef of Egoist restaurant in Tallinn, along with her nine-man team set out to compete at one of the world’s best known cooking competitions, Bocuse d’Or. Pinnak came 14th out of 24 competitors, beating out Italy and Holland. France came in first, Denmark second, and Japan third. Estonia has been competing in this competition since 2008. Heidy Pinnak last competed in 2009, where she came in 15th. This year the competition took place once again in Paul Bocuse’s hometown of Lyon from January 29-30. Pinnak was the only female competitor of the 24 chefs from around the world. Pinnak gained her spot in the Bocuse d’Or final at the cooking semi-finals in Brussels this past spring, once again winning against top culinary countries like Italy, Spain, and Luxembourg. The inspiration for this year’s platter came from the beloved Danish food film “Babette’s Feast.”
Estonia’s platter was a large oval, designed in cooperation with artists from the Estonian Academy of Arts, Department of Jewellery and Blacksmiths. The platter holds various sized pots and pans, representing the numerous pots and pans Babette used to prepare her famous feast. Local Estonian ingredients like Jõgeva yellow potatoes, Vana Tallinn liqueur, quail’s eggs, native herbs, and rye bread were used. The meat was flavoured with juniper berries, and the fish was given a light smoky flavour from pine shoots. “I want to the show the world that Estonia has great cooks and local ingredients to compete among the world’s top cuisines. I hope that this will encourage young Estonian cooks to reach higher, and recognise the value of local Estonian ingredients and traditions, as they create their own new dishes,” said Pinnak, who has spent a very intensive year preparing for the competition. The months spent preparing have certainly paid off. ■
with more plastic wrap and leave over night in the freezer. Serve the ice cream directly from
the freezer with fresh berry or strawberry jam. Garnish with a lemon balm leaf.
TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP PHOTO: EESTI KULINAARIA INSTITUUT
3 ONIONS Fresh noodles, great vegetarian dishes, and a wonderful wine list –another great restaurant opens in Tallinn.
bistro TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV
If you don’t speak Estonian, you’ll understand the name of this restaurant as soon as you walk in. Onions, and shapes that resemble onions are placed all over this tworoom restaurant. The open kitchen design is a new idea for this chefsommelier threesome. In Kohvik Moon, the other restaurant owned by this dynamic trio, the kitchen is located, as chef Roman says, “far away in the basement.” The menu at Kolm Sibulat is short, but covers all of the bases.
Vegetarians will certainly be pleased with some great dishes, like roasted beetroot with pearl couscous, spicy hummus and yoghurt –a dish called Vegetarian Love. The menu could be called bistro, but there are some distinct Asian influences to the dishes, like cream of coconut soup with red lentils and Oriental spices, shell-baked scallops with chilli and ginger aioli, or Igor’s favourite lamb stew served with vegetables, French beans and basmati rice. The stew comes garnished with heaps of fresh coriander. The attraction of the place has to be the fresh house made
noodles. The duck confit, chicken broth, poached egg, pickled vegetables and herb noodle bowl was a great balance of sweet and sour, and a filling dish on its own. The new restaurant, Kolm Sibulat (Three Onions), named after the three owners is open for lunch and dinner, six days a week, and Sundays, 13.00-21.00. From the Old Town, it’s about a ten minute walk. ■
Location Kolm Sibulat Telliskivi 2, Tallinn www.kolmsibulat.eu
Kama and ginger ice cream
The 24th of February is Independence Day in Estonia. I have always admired how this day is celebrated across Estonia with festive meals prepared in many homes. I have chosen an Estonianthemed recipe to share in honour of the day of independence, made from something traditional – kama. (Pease meal). I love kama. Kama is a delicacy, it’s exotic, and most importantly, healthy. But my favourite combination is kama and ginger, hence the inspiration for this recipe. EMMANUEL WILLE or Manu is chef de cuisine at Clazz, Glad Estlander, and Olde Hansa in Tallinn.
Kama and ginger ice cream Prepare the sabayon 6 egg yolks 150g sparkling wine (prosecco works well) 150g Rochester Ginger Drink 100g sugar Mix the above ingredients together and whisk over a water bath until a thick foam develops. Afterwards, move the mixture to a mixer and continue to whisk until cooled. Mix gelatine, ginger drink and kama with sabayon 2 leaves of gelatine 150g ginger drink
60g sugar 75g kama flour Allow the gelatine to soften in water. Heat the ginger drink and sugar together until the sugar has dissolved. Allow it to cool to 90 C and add the softened gelatine. Stir until the gelatine has completely dissolved. Mix with the sabayon. Once incorporated, add 75g of kama flour. Prepare the ice cream Whisk 250g of 35% cream with 15-20g of vanilla sugar. Mix with cooled sabayon and kama mixture. Line a deep pan with plastic wrap and pour the ice cream over top. Cover the top
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Pamper your feet Get your feet out of those boots, and revitalise them with a relaxing pedicure. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV
i3 Viru Ilusalong is a beauty salon located on the third floor of the Viru Hotel in Tallinn’s City Centre. The staff is professionally trained, and top quality service can always be expected. I had been to the i3 Viru Ilusalong last year for a pedicure with Marge. Marge is a nail technician/ aesthetician who has been working at the salon ever since it opened 11 years ago. She greeted me once again as I sat down in her chair and said: “I remember you by your feet.” Feeling a little embarrassed, she reassured me that she remembers all of her clients this way. She gives excellent pedicures, listens to her clients, a sort of informal therapy, she calls it, and spends so much time on their feet that she sees more of their feet, rather than their faces. It certainly pays to become a regular customer here. The pedicure starts like any other. First, your feet are left to soak in warm water. Once the skin is soft, then your feet are filed and scrubbed, and the nails are trim-
med. The best part is the massage. Your feet are massaged with a foaming cream. There are different creams for different skin types, as all feet are unique. Afterwards, you can choose a nail polish colour if you like. I ask Marge what the most popular colours among her clients are and she told me classic red, and blue. Don’t need a pedicure? The i3 Viru Ilusalong offers just about anything else you would need from a spa: hair salon services, waxing, manicures –both regular and gel, as well as many different kinds of massage. The sports massage is particularly therapeutic. Guests of the Viru Hotel will receive a discount on all procedures. ■
The orange vitamin bomb Sea buckthorn products line the shelves, with everything from juices to marmalades. The one thing they all have in common is their health benefits. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV
Location i3 Viru llusalong Sokos Hotel Viru 3rd floor (entrance through the hotel) Viru väljak 4 Tallinn Map Code B2 www.viruilusalong.ee
Sit back and relax with a cup of tea while your feet are taken care of.
Cold pressed sea buckthorn juice can be mixed with water. For example, a 350-millilitre bottle of concentrate will make about 3.5 litres of juice. The juice has a fresh flavour, and is not as sour as the raw berries. A glass of sea buckthorn juice in the morning is a great way to start the day. Sea buckthorn contains about 10-20 times more vitamin C than oranges. The berries contain vitamins A and E, flavonoids, folic acid, and many other trace elements and minerals. The list of the health benefits of sea buckthorn is long and impressive. It is believed to aid digestion, illness, fatigue, flu, and cholesterol.
In Estonia, sea buckthorn grows wild along the coastline, like in the seaside town of Pärnu. It is also grown extensively throughout Estonia. There are many different types of sea buckthorn. The berry’s taste, colour, and size differ in each variety. Sea buckthorn products can be found in grocery stores across Estonia, but the best selection will always be found in organic shops. You can find marmalades, juices, oils, and skin creams, as well as sea buckthorn flavoured honey and mustard. A jar of sea buckthorn powder der costs about 3.20 for 80 grams, or ■ about 40 per kilo. In Finland, sea ea buckthorn powder can cost betetween 80-100 per kilo. The powwder can be mixed into porridge, ge, yogurt, or sour cream. Its flavour ur is milder than that of the berries, es, and the powder adds colour to the foods it is mixed with. A little tle bit goes a long way too –one teasaspoon of sea buckthorn powder is plenty. The powder can be used ed as a vitamin C supplement, espeeSea buckthorn powder can be added to cially for those people who can’t porridge and yogurt. The juice is best diluted with water. eat oranges.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
95 years of Estonian history This year many museums are devoting exhibits to the acronym EV95, the 95th anniversary of the Republic of Estonia. Here is a glimpse of some of Tallinn’s museums and their activities connected to the last 95 years. This period can be divided into three distinctive eras, the first independence 1918-1940, the war years and the Soviet occupation 1940-1991 and the re-independence from 1991.
■ The Museum of
Estonian Architecture Estonian architecture is a reflection of social, economical and political developments in society. Estonian architecture was at its best in the 1930s; during Soviet times communist ideology overshadowed its development.
■ The Estonian History Museum The Estonian History Museum is the obvious place to get an overview of Estonian history. The period from 1918 to present day is presented in the exhibition. A will to be free, at the Maarjamäe Castle. The wonderfully renovated Great Guild Hall in the old town of Tallinn displays earlier Estonian history.
Maarjamäe palace, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn Great Guild Hall, Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town
Ahtri 2, Tallinn
■ KUMU Art Museum Visitors are surprised when they discover how closely Estonian art was connected to European influences in the pre-war period and how abrupt the change was after the Soviet occupation. In the 1960s pop-culture entered and the Estonian art scene became one of the most avant-garde in the whole Soviet Union.
■ Tallinn City Museum One of the floors has been dedicated to the Republic of Estonia, the occupations and the singing revolution that led to re-independence. There is also a section on the role of the Estonians who escaped communism and did their best to preserve Estonian culture outside of Estonia.
Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town
■ Kiek in de Kök and the Bastions The most impressive fortification tower in Tallinn, Kiek in de Kök is the entrance to the historical bastions. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of war.
Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn
Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)
Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17
Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18
Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18
Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18
Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17
Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17
Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18
Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Kommandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30
Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18
Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.
The Estonian Jewish community has always been very small, nevertheless Jews played an important role during the first independence. During Soviet times Jews found escape in Estonia, away from antisemitism in Russia.
Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5 www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18
Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)
■ Maritime Museum
■ Jewish Museum
Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)
Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17
Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum)
Vesilennuki tänav 6, Tallinn
Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20
Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace
Weizenbergi 34, Tallinn
The Estonian Maritime Museum, opened last year, is probably the most fascinating of its kind! It is located in the hangars of the Seaplane Harbour. The museum brings you to a spaced out utopian world. The submarine Lembit elegantly hanging above the visitors was built in the 1930s and is in harsh contrast to small rowing boats used in the great escape to the West during WWII.
Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)
Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18
Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30
TARTU ■ Museums Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum) Vanemuise 42, Tartu www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30
Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum) Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu. www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18
Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18
KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum) Riia 15b, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16
Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum) Jaani 16, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15
Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)
Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)
Rüütli 15, Tartu www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18
Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19
Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)
Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)
Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee
Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18
Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30
Old Observatory (Tähetorn) Lossi 40, Tartu Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn
Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum) Jaama 14, Tartu Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee
Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)
Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum)
Karu tänav 6, Tallinn
Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30
Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18
■ The Estonian Open Air Museum
Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)
City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum)
Mõisa tee 1, Viimsi
At he The Estonian Open Air Museum you can follow developments in rural Estonian during the 1930s, this included not only farming but also community life.
Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ N.B. 01.11.12-31.03.2012 closed on Mondays Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.
■ The Museum of Occupations
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn
■ Art Museums & Galleries
■ Estonian War Museum The Estonian War museum is the place for all fans of war history. It not only tells the story about the War of Independance from 1918-1920 but also WWII and present day international Estonian peace keeping operations.
At the Museum of Occupations visitors can follow the activities of the Forest Brother guerrilla units.
Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town
Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) * Please check museum opening hours, as most museums are closed on Mondays.
Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18
Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square) http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4 15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14 15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17
■ Art Museums & Galleries Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum) Raekoja plats 18, Tartu, http://www.tartmus.ee We-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00
Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja) Vanemuise 26, Tartu, www.kunstimaja.ee We-Mo 12-18
nn shares e B k r a M t glish ex-pa d your evening: n E , h t n o m Every e to spen r e h w n o ig. s t his though dancing, or going to a g g, be it drinkin
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VABANK This classy former bank proves the excellent setting for a night in Tallinn. How many clubs have you been to that have previously been a bank? No, me neither. However, after a visit to Vabank, one may well see such a building as an excellent place for a night spot. This is the place where you can expect to find Tallinn's beautiful people, either taking in some of the finest club music around or sipping a cocktail on one of the two beds to the side of the dance floor. Vabank is not somewhere for the down-at-heel sports-casual clubber; it's only for those who are willing to dress up smartly and enjoy some of the finer things in life and want a more upmarket establishment in which to spend their time. What really sets Vabank apart from some of the other clubs in
town, however, is its VIP rooms situated in what was once the banks vault. Paying homage to the building's past but highlighting its present, the opulent armchairs, accommodating sofas and atmospheric lighting present the perfect place to drink a glass of Moet while having fun with a new friend. In general, clubs such as Vabank often get things wrong. Thankfully, Vabank manages to retain its class and provide an excellent place for an evening of glamour. ■
Location Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn
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PHOTO: ALBERT KERSTNA
The draught-beer revolution is here. After the success of the likes of Drink Baar and Porgu, a new bar is on the lips of those in the know and it's bound to be a big hit with good beer fans all over town. A short walk from the old town, Pudel shows that your weekend in Tallinn shouldn't just be spent in within the Old Town city wall's confines. Located in what was formally an industrial building, Pudel concentrates solely on bringing us some of the finest drinks from around the world. With a beer list that puts most bars to shame, every customer should be able to find at least one beer that will appeal to their tas-
tes. Indeed, Punk IPA on tap is a welcome addition. Its minimalist décor of white walls and benches may not make for the cosiest atmosphere but this hasn't put off Tallinn's great and good who can be seen there most nights of the week Close to restaurants such as Boheem and F-Hoone, Pudel adds to the already trendy Kalamaja district. Situated close to the train station, this up and coming area
offers an excellent opportunity for those looking to escape the busy city centre and enjoy a more relaxed night-life option for their stay. ■
Location Pudel Telliskivi 60A, Tallinn A1
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Funeral for a friend/Example
Folk-rock? Folk-punk? Punk-folk? - who cares when it's this exciting One of the highlights of last year's Tallinn Music Week was Zetod's excellent performance at No99. The venue was filled to capacity and saw the band provide a rousing and energetic performance that kept the audience hooked form start to finish, confirming their reputation as one of the finest 'folk' bands in Estonia today. Zetod are one of the most inspiring bands you can see in Estonia and should not be missed when they take the stage again at this year's Tallinn Music Week. Their electrifying mixture of pop, rock, punk and traditional Seto culture has enabled them to create a musical mix that is dynamic and exciting, yet their modern twist proves them to also be accessible
for even the least folk inspired of music lovers. Indeed, the fivepiece are often followed by crowds filled with traditional folk fans, screaming 14 year-olds and soon to be converted onlookers.
With three studio albums already in the bag, The five lads from Setomaa are surely going to go from strength to strength in the future. Well worth checking out. ■
March sees two of the UK's premier live acts taking to the stage on successive nights at Rock Cafe with Funeral for a Friend on the 23rd March and Example performing on the 24th. After 12 years, 6 albums and numerous line-up changes, Funeral for a Friend continue to tour hard and are supporting their latest album, Conduit, which was released in January. The album sees the band returning to the post-hardcore routes that made their early work so inspirational and proves that they still have so much to come. Currently promoting his new single, 'Perfect Replacement,' UK rapper Example will take to the stage at Rock Cafe on 24th March with support from wellrespected Helsinki DJ's 'Heavy Weight. Nominated for a Brit award for best single in 2012, Example has managed to garner influential fans throughout his career and can list artists such as Professor Green, Faithless, Ed Sheeran, Calvin Harris and Lily Allen as collaborators. Last year's The Evolution of Man was a bouncy 14 song apo-
logy for misdemeanour’s past that saw him move away from his dubstep roots and make a pop/ dance classic for the modern age. Tickets for Funeral for a friend are available at Ticketpro offices
e d i u G Baltic mends: recom
throughout the city, while those for Exhibit can be bought from Piletilevi and Statoil petrol stations. ■
Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1
Sadama 6, Tallinn A3
Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2
Mere pst 6E, Tallinn A2
Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2
Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2
Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2
Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2
Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2
Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2
Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2
Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1
Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2
Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2
Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3
Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2
Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2
Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2
Pärnu mnt 19, Tallinn
Rävala pst 8, Tallinn B2
Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn
Valli 1, Tallinn Old Town I3
Tapper Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn
Tallinn Nightlife Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.
Gay G-punkt Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn
X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn
Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1
Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1
Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3
BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN
RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW The TV Tower is located 10 min. from the city centre and 4 min. from the Pirita Marina. Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn HOW TO GET HERE:
You can take buses PARKING: 34A, 38, and 49 (stop The TV Tower "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises parking lot has 5 places for tourist are handicap buses and 60 accessible. places for cars. Reservations: +372 58150020 E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org, www.teletorn.ee Open Wednesday-Monday 11-23, Tuesday 18-23
TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK
Restaurant/Pub FĂśrsta stĂ¤llet i Tallinn nĂ¤r man kommer sjĂśvĂ¤gen och sista nĂ¤r man beger sig till havs! The ďŹ rst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!
Massor av hĂ¤rliga smakupplevelser!
Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15
Taste one of our delicious dishes! Ă–ppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19. KĂśket Ăśppet frĂĽn kl/ The kitchen open from 8. Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vĂĽn/1st ďŹ‚oor, 100m frĂĽn A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, email@example.com, www.seitsemerd.ee
HEALTHY FRESH FAST PASTA & PIZZA from
4,90 â‚Ź Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010 Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre tfn. +372 6 285 999
OPEN SUN-THU 11-23, FRI-SAT 11-24
BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME!
FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47 21
VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!
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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M A R C H 2 0 1 3
Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.
Tallinn with a view
IN THE OLD TOWN: ■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.
The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. The lower part of Tallinn’s Old Town can be seen from viewing platforms at Toompea. The best view of Toompea is from the tower of St. Olaf’s Church.
■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda). Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.
OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN: ■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top. This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell). ■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.
Toompea Castle species as well as many large mammals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre. ■ Kalamaja District (Fish House) is the area to visit if you want to get a taste for old Tallinn. The wooden houses are typical of those built in the 1920s and 30s, during the first period of Estonian independence. In recent years, this area has become
Town Hall Square ■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. ■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building. ■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.
The snow-covered Song Festival Grounds ■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution. ■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation. The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.
quite bohemian, with many artists, and young entrepreneurs taking up residence here. ■ Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.
■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens. 4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter. Town Hall Pharmacy
■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare
■ 1 Kohtu Platform The Kohtu street platform offers the best view of the Old Town and is a must-see. After a visit to the platform, the likelihood of getting lost in the labyrinth-like streets of the lower town is smaller. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The gracious spire of the medieval City Hall has an Oriental touch and resembles that of the Pühavaimu Church (Church of Holy Spirit). The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. ■ 2 Patkul Platform The Patkul platform shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church used to be even taller in medieval times and was actually the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angel. The harbour and the sea are lying just in front. The Patkul stairs take you more or less to the city centre, and to the Tallinn railway station. Take a look to the left, and parallel with the platform you will see the pillars of Stenbock Palace, the seat of the Estonian government. Tallinn
■ 3 Kiriku Platform The platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. The area is more genuine, calm, and bohemian than around other platforms.
■ 4 Best of both worlds Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of the Toompea Hill, and the upper town. ■ 5 Toompea Castle and Pikk Hermann Tower. The Toompea Tower (15th century) and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. The 46-meter tower is best seen if you walk downhill from Lossi plats square along Falgi Street. Now, turn around, look up and the impressive wall of the medieval fortification with the Pikk Hermann (Tall Hermann) will greet you!
A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lowertown. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed. 1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital
and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.
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■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies
24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318
Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070
Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere
■ Post Office
Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla
Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.
2012/2013 School Holidays Christmas break 22 December, 2012 6 January, 2013 Spring break 16-24 March, 2013 Summer break 5 June - 31 August, 2013
EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740
FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200
ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711
NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000
TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880
BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100
FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600
IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888
POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206
UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815
BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388
GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590
ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160
PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468
UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700
CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311
GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303
LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850
RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175
CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400
GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560
LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030
SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100
DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400
HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880
NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500
Tallinn Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17 Tel. +372 617 7037
■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Mustikas keskus, A. H.Tammsaare tee 116. Solaris, Estonia pst 9.
How to make a phone call in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia ■ Using a mobile phone from Estonia to make a call to another country: + (country code)(phone number) ■ When calling Estonia, enter country code +372, and then the phone number. For example +372 2 222 222. ■ When calling from within Estonia, the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777.
WIFI Networks There are over 1000 wireless hotspots listed at www.wifi.ee. Estonia is known for its extensive network of free internet hotspots. For example, in Tallinn there are 185 and most of them are marked in green, meaning they can be used free of charge. The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network. If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it may be best to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile service provider.
Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. Foorum, Narva mnt 5. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. Kochi Aidad, Lootsi 10.
Event Tickets Tickets for events and concerts in Estonia are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) On-line purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found in shopping centres, and at Statoil petrol stations. Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is available in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets. Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) Sales outlets can be found in post officesand at the Solaris Shopping Centre.
SadaMarket, Kai 5. Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7.
Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.
Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.
■ Useful Phrases
Picture: Kaarel Mikkin
please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks
How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?
■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted. Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.
Linda Line terminal SEAPLANE HARBOUR
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ÂŠRegio 2008 KL-8-026 HAAPSALU 175 IKLA 347 288 KOIDULA 84 148 335 KUIVASTU HARJUMAA IDALĂ„Ă„NEVIRUMAA VIRUMAA 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE 56 228 403 121 106 KĂ„RDLA JĂ„RVAMAA RAPLAMAA HIIUMAA 312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA JĂ•GEVAMAA 108 67 253 81 155PĂ„RNUMAA 161 291 PĂ„RNU SAAREMAA TARTUMAA 199 235 222 245 318 256 167VILJANDIMAA 178 RAKVERE 9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKĂœLA PĂ•LVAMAA 99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 VALGAMAA 99 108 TALLINN 249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU VĂ•RUMAA 204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI 22Ëš00' 300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VĂ•RU 22Ëš00'
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